Skip to main content

Full text of "The new statistical account of Scotland. [electronic resource]"

See other formats 


Lent  to  prof .Greenwood. 
School  of  Hygiene. 


THE  NEW 

STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OF 

SCOTLAND. 

VOL.  IX. 


THE  NEW 

STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OF 

SCOTLAND. 


BY 

THE  MINISTERS  OF  THE  RESPECTIVE  PARISHES,  UNDER  THE 
SUPERINTENDENCE  OF  A  COMMITTEE  OF  THE  SOCIETY 
FOR  THE  BENEFIT  OF  THE  SONS  AND 
DAUGHTERS  OF  THE  CLERGY. 


YOL.  IX. 

FIFE-KIMOSS. 


WILLIAM  BLACKWOOD  AND  SONS, 
EDINBURGH  AND  LONDON. 
MDCCCXLV. 


FIFE. 


C  O  N  T  E  N 


TS. 


ABBOTSHALL,  .  .  ■        PAGE  146 

ABDIE,     .  .  •  •  .4-7 

ABERCROMBIE,  •  •  337 

ABERDOUR,  ....  716 

ANSTRUTHER  EASTER,      .  .  .  295 

ANSTRUTHER  WESTER,  .  .  .611 

AUCHTERDERRAN  .  .  •  165 

AIJCHTERMUCHTY,  .       •  .  .  781 

AUCHTERTOOL,  ■  •  •  249 

BALLINGRY,  ....  446 

BALMERINO,  ....  577 
BEATH,  .....  174 
BURNTISLAND,  .  .  .  404 

CAMERON,  ....  304 

CARNBEE,         .  .  .  .  913 

CARNOCK,  ....  690 

CERES,  ....  517 

COLLESSIE,  .  .  .  .21 

CRAIL,  •  _        .  -  .  959 

CREICH,  ?31 

CULTS,  ....  558 

CUPAR,     ...  .  .1 

DAIRSIE,  ....  770 

DALGETY,  ....  181 

DUNBOG,  ....  205 

DUNFERMLINE,         .  .  ,  .821 

DUNINO,  ....  356 

DYSART,  .  .  .127 

ELIE,  ....  278 

FALKLAND,  ....  920 

FERRY  PORT-ON-CRAIG,  .  .  81 

FLISK,  ....  595 

FORGAN,  ....  505 

INVERKEITHING  AND  ROSYTH,  .  .  230 

KEMBACK,  ....  719 
KENNOWAV,  ....  375 

KETTLE,  .  .  .  102 

KILCONQUIIAR,  ....  315 
KILMANY,         ....  532 


viii 


CONTENTS. 


KILKENNY, 

KTNGHORN, 

KINGLASSIE, 

KINGSBARNS, 

KIRKCALDY, 

LARGO, 

LESLIE,  • 

LEUCHARS, 

LOGIE, 

MARKINCH, 

MONIMAIL, 

MOONZIE, 

NEWBURGH, 

NEWBURN, 

PITTENWEEM, 

ST  ANDREWS, 

ST  LEONARDS, 

ST  MONANS,  . 

SALINE, 

SCOONIE, 

STRATHMIGLO, 

TORRYBURN, 

WEMYSS, 


PAGE  970 

800 
194 
89 
740 
434 
111 
217 
426 
655 
37 
786 
56 
124 
983 
449 
497 
337 
798 
264 
775 
727 
390 


PARISH  OF  CUPAR. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  LAURENCE  ADAMSON,  D.D.  FIRST  MINISTER. 
THE  REV.  JOHN  BIRRELL,  A.  M.  SECOND  MINISTER  * 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name,  Boundaries,  ^c. — This  parish  consists  of  the  two  parishes 
of  Cupar  and  St  Michael  of  Tarvit,  which  were  conjoined  in  the 
beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century,  in  1618, — the  boundary  of 
separation  betwixt  them  having  been  the  small  river  of  Eden,  as  it 
then  flowed,  f  It  is  situated  about  the  middle  of  the  county  or  pe- 
ninsula of  Fife,  and  is  nearly  equidistant,  about  10  miles,  from  New- 
burgh,  Ferry-Port-on- Craig,  St  Andrews,  and  Largo.  It  contains 
the  town  of  Cupar,  which  was  made  a  royal  burgh,  invested  with 
extensive  privileges  and  properties  at  an  early  period,  and  is  de- 
scribed by  Cambden  as  "  Burgus  insignis."  Though  divested  now, 
by  the  liberality  or  prodigality  of  its  rulers,  of  nearly  all  its  extensive 
properties,  as  a  burgh  Cupar  enjoys  still  the  privileges  that  are  al- 
lowed by  the  late  Reform  Act,  and  ranks  as  the  county  town  of 
Fife.+ 

The  parish  is  of  a  very  irregular  form,  and  is  much  indented 
by  the  parishes  of  Dairsie,  Ceres,  and  Monimail.  It  measures 
from  east  to  west  nearly  5  miles,  and  about  the  same  from  north 
to  south.  Its  surface  is  beautifully  diversified  by  rising  grounds, 
and  intersected  by  the  river  Eden  and  the  Lady  Burn,  or  St  Mary's 
Burn,  which  meet  at  an  acute  angle  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
town.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Dairsie  and  Kem- 
back;  on  the  south  by  Ceres;  on  the  west  by  Cults  and  Monimail; 
and  on  the  north  by  Moonzie  and  Kilmany. 

Meteoroloffi/.— The  climate  of  this  parish  is  mild  and  salubrious. 

*  Drawn  up  by  the  Rev.  John  Birrell,  second  minister  of  the  parish, 
it  ^  few  years  ago  straighted,  a  small  portion  of  St  Michael's  is  situat- 

cd^to  the  north  of  the  Eden,  near  the  County-Hall. 

+  By  the  ancient  charters  to  the  town  of  Cupar,  preserved  in  the  Register  Office 
in  J-,amburgh,  whereof  an  authentic  duplicate  is  deposited  with  the  town  clerk,  the 
magistrates  possessed  a  much  more  extensive  jurisdiction  over  the  surrounding  pa- 
rishes than  what  is  now  or  has  been  for  a  long  time  exercised. 
FIFE.  J, 


2 


FIFESHIRE. 


Though  the  town  of  Cupar  and  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish  that 
lie  along  the  banks  of  the  Eden  are  liable  to  be  enveloped  in  hoar 
frost  at  certain  seasons,  particularly  in  the  spring  and  autunnn,  yet 
the  air  is  in  general  dry  and  exhilarating.  As  the  town  is  situated 
little  more  than  twenty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the 
temperature  and  climate  are  warm  and  agreeable.  In  consequence  of 
this,  there  seems  to  be  no  particular  disease  incident  to  the  parish. 
And  while  there  are  some  instances  of  extreme  old  age  in  it, — two 
or  three  persons  upwards  of  90  and  one  above  100,— there  are 
many  of  an  almost  youthful  vigour  at  the  advanced  period  of  three- 
score and  ten  and  fourscore  years. 

Hijdrography.—The  small  river  of  Eden,  flows  from  Avest  to 
east  through  the  parish,  as  well  as  the  strath  to  which  it  gives  its 
name.    It  rises  about  sixteen  miles  west,  near  the  north  side  of 
the  West  Lomond.    It  is  joined,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
town,  by  the  Lady  Burn,  which  flows  from  north-west  to  south- 
east till  the  point  of  junction.    The  bed  of  the  Eden  is  very 
level,  in  consequence  of  which  it  flows  sluggishly  (lene  fluit 
aquis.)    Though  Cupar  is  six  miles  from  the  sea,  at  Edenmouth, 
the  river  has  a  fall  of  only  twenty-five  feet.     It  is  not  available, 
therefore,  for  the  purposes  of  machinery  to  the  extent  that  the  vo- 
lume of  water  which  it  contains  would  justify,  were  its  descent  more 
rapid.    Through  the  enterprise  of  modern  times,  however,  neariy 
every  fall  has  been  seized  upon  and  turned  to  account.  And  though 
there  is  not  a  wheel  moved  by  it  within  the  parish  that  has  more 
than  a  breast-fall,  yet  there  are  several  employed  for  the  move- 
ment of  powerful  machinery.    From  entering  the  parish  till  leav- 
ing it,  it  is  made  available  to  the  extent  of  eighty  horse  power.  The 
course  of  the  Lady  Burn  is  more  brisk  and  rapid;  but  the  volume 
of  water  is  in  general  so  small,  that,  except  by  much  damming  up 
and  savincr,  it  cannot  be  made  to  serve  any  other  purpose  than 
that  of  driving  thrashing-mills.  The  junction  of  these  two  streams 
at  the  town  gives  to  it  a  lively  appearance,  and  contributes  greatly  to 
its  cleanliness  and  healthfulness.  There  are  many  perennial  springs 
in  the  parish.    And  at  any  place  of  the  town,  by  sinking  to  the 
depth  of  20  or  30  feet,  an  abundant  supply  of  water  can  be  pro- 
cured, fit  for  all  domestic  purposes  except  washing. 

Geology  and  Miner alogy.-m^\[e  the  surface  of  the  parish  ,s 
diversified  and  undulating,  the  geological  construction  and  the  cha- 
racter of  the  minerals  is  also  various.  Along  the  banks  of  the 
Eden  on  either  side,  white  sandstone  abounds,  lymg  m  strata  ol 

3 


CUPAR. 


3 


various  degrees  of  compactness  according  to  their  depth,  and  dip- 
ping on  both  sides  towards  the  south.    Along  the  banks  of  the 
Lady  Burn,  a  sandstone  conglomerate  prevails,  consisting  of  large 
masses  of  quartz  and  other  flinty  ingredients,  and  resembling  a 
coarse  puddingstone.     Surmounting  this  rock,  and  at  irregular 
and  undulating  distances  from  the  Lady  Burn,  there  runs  a  very 
singular  mound,  composed  (when  examined)  of  fresh  water  gravel. 
Beginning  at  the  distance  of  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
point  where  the  Eden  and  the  Lady  Burn  meet,  this  mound  runs 
in  a  serpentine  direction,  till  it  terminates,  as  it  rises,  abruptly,  in 
what  is  now  called  the  School,  but  anciently  the  Castle-hill.  About 
the  middle,  there  is  a  peak  of  greater  elevation  than  the  rest,  which 
is  called  the  Moot-hill,  and  on  which,  according  to  tradition,  the 
Earls  of  Fife  used  to  hold  their  councils  of  war,  and  dispense  the 
awards  of  justice.    Were  one  to  look  to  appearance,  or  to  listen  to 
report  without  attending  to  the  magnitude  of  this  mound,  he  might 
conclude,  as  has  been  sometimes  supposed,  that  it  is  artificial.  But, 
looking  to  the  size,  this  supposition  is  instantly  checked.  And  ex- 
tending the  view  across  from  the  Castle  or  School-hill  to  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Eden,  and  remarking  the  same  serpentine  and 
mound-like  appearance  continuing,  there  is  left  no  room  to  doubt 
that  the  mound  is  a  natui-al  deposit  formed  at  some  remote  period, 
and  broken  through',  as  it  now  is,  by  the  action  of  the  Eden. 
Above  this  mound,  and  on  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  Eden, 
there  is  an  immense  bed  of  clay  of  a  very  excellent  quality,  and 
peculiarly  fitted  for  the  making  of  brick  and  tiles,  for  which  it  has 
long  been  used.    Recently,  it  has  been  employed  for  the  making  of 
coarse  earthen-ware,  and  is  found  to  answer  well.    Higher  up,  and 
behind  this  embankment,  as  it  njust  have  been  till  it  was  worn 
away  by  the  water,  lie  what  are  called  the  Wards, — an  extensive 
and  fertile  plain,  all  now  under  the  plough,  but  wearing  decided 
marks  of  having  been  at  one  time  under  water,  and  forming  the 
bottom  of  a  large  lake  or  basin,  which  has  been  emptied  and  laid 
dry  by  the  wearing  down  of  the  embankment.    The  name  of  Fer- 
ry still  attaches  to  some  of  the  places  on  the  sides  of  this  plain ;  and 
even  at  the  period  of  the  Reformation  it  was  of  such  an  impassable 
nature,  that,  while  the  royal  forces  lay  on  the  hill  or  Garley  Bank  on 
the  south  side,  and  the  Lords  of  the  Congregation  lay  encamped 
on  a  moor  on  the  opposite,  this  marsh  formed  a  barrier  of  separa- 
tion betwixt  them  sufficiently  strong  to  prevent  them  from  advan- 
cing to  or  molesting  each  other. 


4 


FIFESHIRE. 


Above  the  gravel  and  sandstone  strata  which  lie  along  the  banks 
of  the  Eden  and  Lady  Burn,  trap  rock,  greenstone,  and  clinkstone, 
abound  and  are  quarried  extensively.  Neither  coal  nor  lime  are  to 
be  found  in  the  parish,  nor  in  any  part  of  the  Strath  of  the  Eden  or 
How  of  Fife, — although  both  of  these  valuable  articles  are  in  abun- 
dance, and  of  excellent  quahty,  about  seven  and  ten  miles  to  the 
south. 

The  soil  of  the  parish  is  very  variable,  from  a  light  sandy  soil  to 
that  of  a  strong  and  heavy  clay.  In  general,  however,  it  is  good 
and  fertile,  and  through  the  means  of  long  cultivation,  and  from  a 
full  command  of  manure,  it  is  highly  improved,  and  produces  the 
finest  crops. 

ZoohgT/.— The  rarer  species  of  birds  to  be  found  in  the  parisn, 
are  the  jay,  the  golden  crested -wren,  the  willow-wren,  the  water- 
hen,  the  water-ouzel,  the  kingfisher,  the  long- tailed  titmouse,  the 
goat-sucker.  * 

II. — Civil  History. 
There  is  a  good  map  of  the  parish  lately  executed  and  litho- 
graphed by  John  Govan,  Esq.  W.  S.  common  agent  for  the  heri- 
tors in  adjusting  the  localities,— and  which,  though  not  scientifically 
correct,  gives  a  good  view  of  the  conjoined  parishes.  There  is  also 
a  good  plan  of  the  town  in  Wood's  Burgh  Atlas,  pubhshed  several 

years  ago.  . 

Antiquities.— The  ancient  Castle  of  Cupar  stood  on  the  termina- 
tion of  the  mound  already  described  as  running  along  the  course  of 
the  Lady  Burn.   This  is  represented  by  Buchanan  as  a  place  of  very 
considerable  strength  in  the  time  of  Edward  Bahol.    During  the 
invasion  of  the  English  at  that  time,  it  was  seized  upon,  and  occu- 
pied by  them  till  they  were  driven  by  famine  to  abandon  it  and  re- 
turn across  the  Forth  to  their  own  country.    Its  position  at  the 
iunction  of  the  Eden  and  Lady  Burn  favours  the  opinion  that,  at 
a  time  when  these  streams  were  not  so  well  guarded  within  then- 
banks  as  they  now  are  by  artificial  means,  it  must  have  been  a  for- 
tress of  considerable  strength,  and  in  a  rude  state  of  warfare  must 
have  presented  considerable  resistance  to  an  assading  force.   W  hile 
workmen  were  employed  some  years  ago  in  improving  the  ine  ot 
road  that  runs  to  the  east,  several  skeletons  were  found,  which  were 
conjectured  to  be  those  of  the  soldiers  who  had  fallen  while  con- 

.  A  pack  of  fox  hounds  is  kept  at  Cupar  as  head  quarters,  ^^^S'^^il'ed  A""  [;>•  '^^^l^ 


CUPAR. 


6 


ducting  some  assault  upon  this  fortress.  Now,  however,  there  re- 
main no  vestiges  of  the  fortress.  The  hill  has  long  been  held  as 
the  property  of  the  town,  and  occupied  as  the  site  of  the  schools 
and  academy..  In  the  times  of  Sir  David  Lindsay  of  the  Mount,  it 
is  said  to  have  been  used  as  the  play-field  for  the  exhibition  and  the 
acting  of  his  dramatic  pieces.  The  name  of  Castle-hill  has  now  pas- 
sed into  the  more  peaceful  name  of  School-hill,  and  the  plays  ex- 
hibited daily,  are  those  of  youths  when  just  "  let  loose  from  school." 

Under  this  hill,  on  the  south,  stood  a  convent  of  Dominican  or 
Blackfriars,  belonging  originally  to  the  Island  of  May,  and  after- 
wards transferred  to  St  Andrews,  which,  like  its  more  warlike  neigh- 
bour, has  now  been  completely  removed.  That  part  of  the  chapel 
"  built  of  cut  freestone,"  which  at  the  writing  of  the  last  Account 
is  said  to  have  been  standing,  has  been  taken  away  to  make  room 
for  a  very  handsome  street.  Near  or  on  the  very  site  of  the  cha- 
pel of  the  convent,  stands  now  the  Episcopal  chapel,  St  James's, 
which  is  a  very  handsome  building,  meant  to  form  part  of  the  street 
when  completed.  And  lately,  when  the  grounds  of  the  convent  were 
trenched,  to  answer  the  purposes  of  a  kitchen-garden,  many  re- 
ceptacles of  the  dead  were  disturbed,  and  their  skeletons  dug  up. 

Another  striking  remembrancer  of  the  olden  times  is  a  small  co- 
nical eminence  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Eden,  and  lying  a  little 
further  down  the  river  than  the  School-hill.    This,  which,  at  the 
time  of  the  last  Account,  was  under  cultivation,  is  now  covered 
with  a  young  thriving  plantation  belonging  to  the  proprietor  of 
Tarvit.    It  was  the  site  of  the  church  of  the  parish  of  St  Michael, 
and  formed  the  burying-ground  of  that  parish.    A  few  years  ago, 
when  an  alteration  was  making  upon  the  public  roads,  many  of  the 
depositaries  of  the  dead  were  broken  open,  and  the  remains  of  their 
mmates  brought  to  view  after  a  repose  of  at  least  two  centuries. 
This  receptacle  of  the  dead  has  thus  been  again  converted  into 
common  earth.    In  the  same  manner,  has  the  burial-ground  of  the 
parish  of  Cupar,  which  lay  at  a  remoter  period  at  a  distance  of  fully 
a  mile  to  the  north-west  of  the  town,  and  of^the  present  burial- 
ground,  where  the  church  also  stood,  been  converted  again  into 
common  earth,  and  scarcely  does  a  vestige  remain  to  shew  where 
It  was.  At  the  time  of  the  last  Account,  it  formed  part  of  what  was 
called  the  glebe  of  the  first  minister  of  the  parish.    An  excambion 
has  since  been  made  to  accommodate  the  proprietor  of  Springfield, 
in  whose  policy  it  lies.    With  the  exception  of  its  being  a'' little 
more  elevated  than  the  surrounding  field,  nothing  remains  to  tell 


e  FIFESHIRE. 

the  passing  stranger  that  the  dead  lie  there.  To  shew,  however, 
the  effect  of  prejudice  upon  the  niind,  it  may  be  noticed,  that  there 
are  still  individuals  to  be  found  who  have  an  unwillingness  to  pass 

the  spot  under  night. 

The  present  burial-ground  having  been  set  apart  and  conse- 
crated in  1415,  when  the  church  was  removed  from  its  former  si- 
tuation, and  built  nearer  the  town,  can  boast  of  few  ancient  monu- 
ments.   One  of  the  most  ancient  is  that  erected  to  the  memory  ot 
Mr  William  Scott,  who  was  for  many  years  first  minister  of  Cupar, 
and  who  built  the  spire  of  the  steeple  at  his  own  expense,  and  ac- 
cording to  his  own  design.    This  monument  shews  the  burial-place 
of  the  ministers  of  the  parish.    But,  in  consequence  of  the  action 
of  the  weather  upon  the  stones  of  which  it  is  composed,  the  inscrip- 
tion is  completely  obliterated.    It  is  said  to  have  been  executed  in 
Holland,  and  erected  by  tFe  relatives  of  Mr  Scott,  who  belonged 
to  the  family  of  Balwearie,  shortly  after  his  death,  and  must  have 
been  thought  a  work  of  taste  in  that  time.    As  there  is  none  to 
take  an  interest  in  its  repair,  it  bids  fair  to  go  soon  into  com- 
plete  decay.    There  is  also  a  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  some  of  those  who  suffered  for  conscience  sake  in  the  times  of 

"^t^he^al  end  of  the  outside  of  the  present  church  there  is  a 
niche  shewing  where  St  James's  altar  once  stood.  Withm  t^e 
lurch  in  th!  western  wall,  lies  a  full  length  statue  of  Sir  John 
Arnot  of  Fernie,  who  fell  in  the  last  crusade.  And  in  the  same  ..11 
,fa  very  handsome  marble  tablet,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  late 

.  This  is  a. .pie  stone,  .oden.  in  i-pp™^^ S^^^^^ 
«  Here  lies  interred  the  heads      ^aur.  Hay,  ana  a  ^^^^ 
.nartyrdom  at  Edinburgh  J^^y  Jf^^^Jf  ^^.^Vso  ^  o^f  the  hands  of  David  Hack- 
Scotland's  covenanted  work  of  reforma^^^  Edinburgh,  July  30th  1680,  for 
ston  of  Rathillet,  who  was  ^ost  c  uelly  murd^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^^  ,,,, 
the  same  cause.      un  tne  ooveisc  o 
at  the  top,  1 680.                  persecutors  filled  with  rage, 

Their  brutish  fury  to  aswage 

Took  heads  and  hands  of  martyrs  oft. 

That  they  might  be  the  people  s  scott ; 

They  Hackston's  body  cut  asunder, 

And  set  it  up  a  world's  wonder 

In  several  places,  to  proclaim, 

These  monsters  gloried  in  their  shame  ^ 

A.  Uie  bottom  of  tl.ese  lines  ^'j.^^l^rri^SStSlSs  JiS^ 
On  inquiry,  however,  it  is  found  that  ^^^^  Pf^^^^^^^^^  j^^a  become  quite  decayed,  and 
in  1792,  was  put  up  as  a  substitute  for  ^""^^'T  t,,e  events  recorded.  The 

ch  is  supposed  to  have  been  e-«ted  imm  d latd,    ftu  the       ^^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

epitaph  and  the  1"-^-/  ^  'J^"'':^  ,/rstone  if  new  y  painted  once  a  year,  as  it  has 
S»Syr^^;:^>y  pS^c  Svidua.,  L  ...^  own  e,pense. 


CUPAR. 


7 


Dr  Campbell,  writer  of  the  last  Account,  by  his  sons  Sir  George  of 
Edenwood,  and  Sir  John,  the  present  Attorney- General. 

The  ancient  cross  of  Cupar  still  stands,  and  is  seen  from  a  great 
distance  on  the  top  of  the  hill  of  Wemyss  Hall.  It  was  carried  up 
and  placed  there  by  the  late  Colonel  Wemyss,  father  of  the  pre- 
sent proprietor  of  Wemyss  Hall,  when  it  had  been  removed  from 
its  original  position  to  make  way  for  the  improvements  that  were 
making  upon  the  streets.  It  is  a  straight  round  column  surmount- 
ed by  the  town  arms,  and  placed  now  upon  a  strong  pedestal,  com- 
posed of  the  rock  of  the  hill  on  which  it  stands. 

Porochial  Records. — The  records  of  the  kirk-session  reach  back 
to  the  year  1648.  The  minutes  of  session  contain  many  curious 
and  interesting  views  of  the  character  and  manners  of  the  times. 
Excepting  a  chasm  from  1661-1695,  they  are  complete.  The  re- 
gisters of  baptisms,  deaths,  and  marriages,  reach  back  to  1654, 
and  are  brought  down  regularly,  and  without  interruption,  to  the 
present  time. 

Modei-n  Buildings,  ^c. — The  modern  buildings  of  the  town  are, 
the  Town  and  County  Halls,  and  an  Episcopal  chapel,  standing 
in  the  New  Street,  otherwise  called  St  Catherine  Street,  and  form- 
ing part  of  it.    Also,  a  town  and  county  jail,  standing  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Eden  from  the  town,  but  built  in  the  style  of 
the  New  Street,  and  according  to  a  plan  by  which  it  was  to  orna- 
ment that  street.     Its  present  site,  however,  and  the  plan  on 
which  it  is  built,  do  not  correspond.    None  of  the  modern  build- 
ings can  boast  of  much  elegance.    The  County  Buildings,  when 
the  plan  by  which  they  are  now  being  enlarged  shall  have  been 
completed,  will  be  very  spacious,  and  afford  such  accommodation 
for  the  county  meetings,  and  the  meetings  of  the  Sheriff-courts, 
and  Justice  of  Peace  Courts,  and  also  for  the  keeping  of  the  pub- 
lic records,  &c.  of  the  county,  as  will  reflect  great  credit  upon  the 
county.    In  the  County  Hall,  there  are  two  very  elegant  portraits 
lately  procured  by  the  county.    One  of  these  is  a  portrait  of  the 
late  General  John  Earl  of  Hopetoun,  by  Raeburn.    The  other  is 
that  of  Thomas  Earl  of  Kellie,  Lord  Lieutenant  of  Fife,  by  Wil- 
kie.    They  were  procured  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  county  in  tes- 
timony of  the  high  respect  in  which  they  held  these  noblemen,  and 
in  return  for  the  high  services  which  they  rendered,  by  their  atten- 
tion to  the  business  of  the  county. 

The  most  ancient  mansion-houses  in  the  parish  are  those  of 
Carslogie  and  Wemyss  Hall.  The  former  was  built  upwards  of  four 


8  FIFESHIRE. 

hundred  years  ago ;  and,  having  long  served  as  the  family  seat  of  the 
Clephanes,  has  now  passed  by  purchase  into  the  hands  of  the  Rev. 
Mr  Laing,  who  resides  at  his  living  in  Northumberland.  The 
latter,  according  to  Sibbald,  was  newly  built  in  the  beginning  of 
last  century,  and  has  been  lately  enlarged  by  the  present  proprie- 
tor, James  Wemyss,  Esq.  of  Winthank.  The  famous  iron  hand 
of  the  Clephanes  is  said  to  be  still  in  preservation,  and  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  heirs  of  the  family.  There  is  said,  also,  to  be  a 
charter,  granted  to  the  family  by  Malcolm  Canmore,  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  heirs  of  the  family. 

The  modern  mansion-house  of  Kilmaron,  the  country  seat  of 
James  Cheyne,  Esq.  Edinburgh,  built  in  the  castellated  form, 
according  to  a  plan  by  Gillespie,  is  the  only  house  that  lays  clami 
to  any  degree  of  magnificence.    The  other  houses  are  plam,  and 
suited  to  the  modest  and  unpretending  requirements  of  the  pro- 
prietors.   They  are,  the  house  of  Tarvit,  the  property  and  fa- 
mily residence  of  James  Home  Rigg,  Esq.  of  Downfield;  Sprmg- 
field,  that  of  Colonel  Don,  E.  I.  C.  S. ;  Dalyell,  that  of  John  Dal- 
yeW  Esq.  of  Lingo;  Hilton,  that  of  William  Tod,  Esq. ;  Cairme 
Lodge,  that  of  General  Foulis,  C.  B.,  E.  L  C.  S. ;  Pitblado,  that 
of  George  Russell,  Esq. ;  Prestonhall,  that  of  R.  Swan,  Esq;  Mid- 
dlefield,  that  of  John  Russell,  Esq. ;  Foxton,  that  of  Andrew 
West  Esq. ;  Balas,  that  of  Alexander  Bogie,  Esq. ;  Ferrybank, 
that  of  Colonel  Craigie,  E.  L  C.  S. ;  Bellfield,  that  of  Captam 
MoncrieffofBalcurvie;  Blalowne,  that  of  John  Govan,  Esq.  W.fe.; 
and  Westfield,  that  of  Mr  Walker  of  Pittencrieff. 

in. — Population. 
When  the  parishes  of  Cupar  and  St  Michael  were  united  m 
1617,  the  population  of  the  two  did  not  much  exceed  1000.  Smce 
that  period  it  has  continued  to  increase  gradually  and  progres- 
sively. 

Population  in  1801,       -  4463 
^  1811,         -  47o8 

1821,  -  5892 
1831,  -  6473 

One  mode  of  accounting  for  this  gradual  increase  is  the  disposi- 
tion, engendered  in  some  measure  by  necessity,  on  the  part  of  the  la- 
bou  ing  classes,  to  repair.to  towns  when  old  age  and  mfirmity  ren- 
der  thfm  unfit  for  the  labours  of  the  field.  Another  x«ode  of  ac- 
counting for  it  is,  the  increase  of  trade  and  manufactures  of  all 
Ss  in  the  town,  and  the  facility  that  exists  o  obtanung  all  1^ 
comforts  and  conveniences  of  hfe  at  a  cheap  and  easy  rate.  It 


CUPAR. 


9 


to  be  remarked,  too,  that  the  increase  has  taken  place  principally 
in  the  town  of  Cupar,  and  in  the  two  villages  of  Springfield  and 
Glaidney  Cotton, — the  one  on  the  western,  and  the  other  on  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  parish.  In  the  landward  part  of  the 
parish,  the  population  has  diminished  rather  than  increased. 


Number  of  population  in  the  town  of  Cupar  is  about          .  5000 

That  of  Springfield  and  neighbourhood,              .  .  500 

Glaidney,                    .               •                .  800 

the  landward  part,                      •  .  673 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,              -             -  -  1482 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  142 

in  handicraft,         -  -  766 


It  is  impossible  to  give  any  accurate  average  of  the  births  in  the 
parish,  as  the  dissenters  of  all  kinds  are  in  the  practice  of  declin- 
ing to  register  their  children  in  the  parish  register.  The  funerals 
that  take  place  in  the  parish  amount  to  about  149  annually.  Of 
these,  some  are  brought  from  adjoining  parishes ;  while  many  of 
those  that  die  in  the  parish  are  carried  out  of  it  for  burial.  The 
number  of  marriages,  or  at  least  of  proclamations  for  marriage, 
amounts  to  56  or  thereby. 

Land-owners. — The  parish  can  boast  of  no  nobility  resident  in 
it,  and  none  connected  with  it  except  the  Earl  of  Glasgow,  who,  as 
heir  to  the  Crawford  estates,  ranks  as  an  heritor.  There  are,  how- 
ever, residing  in  it  14  families  of  independent  fortune.  All  these 
are  landed  proprietors,  and  with  an  yearly  income  from  their  land 
of  L.  50  and  upwards. 

There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the  strength,  size,  complexion,  or 
other  personal  qualities  of  the  inhabitants.  There  are  only  two 
cases  of  confirmed  derangement  in  the  parish.  Of  late,  the  at- 
tention of  the  public  to  any  instance  of  temporary  derangement 
has  been  particularly  favourable  to  their  speedy  recovery.  By 
sending  the  patients,  or,  if  paupers,  by  applying  to  have  them  sent, 
immediately  to  the  very  excellent  and  well-conducted  asylum  at 
Dundee,  the  effect  has  been  truly  gratifying.  Of  five  or  six  that 
have  been  sent  within  these  ten  years,  all  have  been  restored,  af- 
ter one  or  two  quarters'  confinement,  perfectly  cured.  There  are 
four  or  five  fatuous  cases  in  the  parish ;  one  of  blindness,  occa- 
sioned by  accident ;  none  deaf  and  dumb. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The  state  of  agriculture  in  this  parish  is  the  most 
approved.  The  number  of  acres  is  5545,  imperial  measure.  Where 
every  acre  is  arable,  and  either  under  the  plough  or  covered  with 
plantations  in  various  stages  of  advancement,  every  spot  wears  theap- 


10 


FIFESHIRE. 


pearance  of  the  highest  cultivation.  As  a  great  many  of  the  farms 
are  in  the  natural  possession  of  the  proprietors,  and  either  ma- 
naged by  themselves  or  by  skilful  and  experienced  overseers,  it 
may  be  said,  that  nothing  remains  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  im- 
provement. There  are  no  wastes  to  be  reclaimed,  no  commons  to 
be  divided,  and  no  marshes  to  be  drained. 

Eental,  Sfc. — The  total  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  7237,  15s. 
7d.  Scots.  Of  this,  L.  1912  Scots  is  assumed  by  the  burgh  as  the 
value  of  the  burgh  lands,  and  other  property  in  the  town  ;  and  in 
this  they  allow  themselves  to  be  liable  for  repairs  of  church  and 
manse.     This  sum,  however,  holds  no  place  in  the  cess  books  of 
the  county.    The  real  rental,  as  taken  in  1829  for  a  process  of 
augmentation  before  the  Teind  Court,  was  L.  9977,  lis.  9d.  Ster- 
ling.   This  rental  was  subsequently  examined  and  generally  ac- 
quiesced in  by  all  concerned,  as  a  fair  rule  for  laying  on  the  cho- 
lera assessment  in  1832.    This,  therefore,  may  be  taken  as  the 
actual  rental  of  the  whole  parish  ;  and  if  the  number  of  acres  is 
taken  to  be  5545,  imperial  measure,  we  have  the  average  rental 
per  acre  to  be  L.  1,  15s.  llfd.    This  includes  what  is  under  wood. 
Making  a  deduction  for  what  is  under  wood  and  inarable,  perhaps 
L.  2,  10s.  per  acre  for  what  is  under  cultivation  is  as  near  an  ap- 
proximation to  the  truth  as  any  that  can  be  found.    According  to 
its  quality,  or  its  distance  from  the  town,  the  land  varies  from  L.  5 
to  L.  1,  10s.    Some  small  spots  have  let  within  these  seven  years 
as  high  as  L.  7. 

The  average  rent  of  grazing  during  the  year,  may  be  set  down 
at  L.  6,  6s.  per  ox,  and  L.  1,  5s.  per  ewe  or  full-grown  sheep. 
The  rate  of  a  mason's  labour  is  2s.  6d.  and  that  of  a  carpenter's 

2s.  3d.  a  day.  . 

Live-Stock.— The  common  breeds  of  oxen  are  the  ancient  l*ite 
breeds,  which  have  gained  the  prizes  at  all  the  great  cattle-shows 
in  Scotland,  and  so  excel  other  breeds,  that  the  Highland  Socie- 
ty have  doubts  about  allowing  them  to  enter  for  competition.  Some 
specimens  of  the  Teeswater  breed  have  been  introduced,  and  do 
very  well ;  but  there  seems  to  be  a  partiahty  for  the  old  stock  rather 
than  for  the  new.  And  this  arises  from  the  impression  that  the  for- 
mer are  more  hardy,  equally  profitable  for  feeding  for  the  butcher, 
and  more  useful  for  all  the  purposes  of  the  dairy.  As  sheep  are 
little  attended  to  except  by  those  who  feed  their  own  mutton,  no- 
thing can  be  said  of  this  kind  of  stock. 

Husbandry.— The  mode  of  husbandry  in  the  parish  is  much 


CUPAR. 


11 


the  same  as  what  prevails  over  the  county.  It  is  the  five  or  six 
year's  rotation,  and  as  the  soil  is  suitable  both  for  wheat  and  tur- 
nips, the  most  luxuriant  and  productive  crops  are  everywhere  to 
be  found.  The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years,  with 
entry  at  Martinmas.  The  farm-buildings  are  neat  and  commodi- 
ous, and  suitable  to  the  requirements  of  farms  where  all  is  under 
the  plough. 

Qiiarries. — There  are  four  quarries  in  the  parish  of  excellent 
white  sandstone,  and  two  of  greenstone  fit  for  road  metal  and  coarse 
kinds  of  building. 

Produce. — It  seems  quite  impossible  to  state  the  gross  amount 
of  agricultural  produce.  The  number  of  heritors  liable  to  pay 
stipend,  or  rather  the  number  of  small  properties  in  the  hands  of 
heritors  so  liable,  amounts  to  172.  Any  attempt  at  determining 
the  gross  produce,  could  lead  to  nothing  but  a  distant  approxima- 
tion to  the  truth.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing,  however,  to  find  land 
yielding  3^  quarters  of  wheat,  6  do.  of  barley,  5^  do.  of  oats  per  acre. 
Of  potatoes,  of  which  a  great  many  are  grown  to  be  shipped  for  the 
London  market,  it  is  not  very  uncommon  to  find  50  or  60  bolls  of  28 
stones  on  the  acre.  Fifty  bolls  an  acre,  however,  may  be  taken  as 
an  average  crop  of  this  valuable  root. 

Manufactures. — There  are  three  spinning-mills  in  the  parish, 
one  of  which  is  driven  entirely  by  water,  another  partly  by  water 
and  partly  by  steam,  and  a  third  altogether  by  steam.  Of  these 
the  first  two  are  occupied  in  spinning  flax,  and  the  last  in  making 
thread.  The  number  of  hands  employed  in  the  three  amounts  to 
236.  Besides  these  there  are  two  corn  and  barley  mills,  and  two 
flour  mills,  all  well  employed.  The  corn,  barley,  and  flour  mills 
at  Cupar,  especially  since  they  were  feued  by  the  burgh  of  Cupar 
to  the  late  John  Inglis,  Esq.  of  Colluthie,  have  been  celebrated 
as  the  best  in  Fife ;  and  have  been  employed  by  bakers  and  meal- 
dealers  from  a  great  distance.  There  is  a  snuff"-mill,  to  which  to- 
bacco is  sent  to  be  manufactured,  not  only  from  all  parts  of  Fife, 
but  also  from  the  counties  to  the  north.  It  is  said  that  about 
60,000  lbs.  of  snuff  are  manufactured  there  every  year.  And 
whether  it  is  owing  to  the  greater  consumption  of  that  article,  or 
to  the  growing  celebrity  of  the  mill,  it  has  been  found  necessary  of 
late  to  increase  the  power  of  the  mill,  and  to  add  a  steam  power 
to  that  of  the  water,  by  which  it  was  formerly  driven.  There  is 
also  a  washing  or  fulling  mill.  There  are  two  tan -works  j  one  for 
hides  and  another  for  sheep  skins.    To  this  latter  a  manufacture 


12 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  glue  has  been  added  within  these  few  years.  There  are  three 
breweries ;  a  brick  and  tile-work,  at  which  coarse  earthen-ware  is 
made  ;  and  a  rope-work. 

Though  there  are  no  linen  manufactures  upon  a  united  scheme, 
and  no  power  looms,  yet  the  manufacture  of  linen  is  carried  on  to 
a  considerable  extent,  and  the  number  of  weavers  and  others  em- 
ployed is  great.  There  are  at  least  ten  distinct  manufacturers  with 
their  capitals  embarked  in  the  linen  trade.  By  these  different  ma- 
nufacturers, there  are  employed  within  the  parish  not  less  than  600 
weavers.    And  as  every  two  weavers  require  one  person  to  wind 
for  them,  the  number  employed  and  earning  a  comfortable  subsist- 
ence  from  this  trade  may  be  reckoned  at  900,  all  living  in  their 
own  houses,  and  labouring  in  their  own  workshops.   Besides  those 
that  are  employed  within  the  parish,  the  different  manufacturers 
have  weavers  employed  in  the  various  towns  and  villages  in  the 
neighbourhood  throughout  the  county.    The  linen  manufactured 
is  of  various  kinds  and  qualities,  and  is  exported  to  the  East  and 
West  Indies,  as  well  as  to  all  parts  of  the  continent  of  Europe  and 
of  America. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Markets.— Cu^3ir  has  long  been  known  as  a  leading  and  import- 
ant market-town.    Besides  the  weekly  corn-market,  which  is  held 
every  Thursday,  there  are  a  great  many  fairs  for  the  sale  of  all 
kinds  of  stock,  and  domestic  and  agricultural  utensils  of  all  sorts. 
Till  within  these  few  years,  these  fairs  took  place  on  particular 
days  of  the  month,  and  thus  occasioned  great  confusion.    Now,  by 
an  arrangement  that  has  been  generally  approved  of,  they  are  held 
on  the  Thursday  next  to  the  day  of  the  month  on  which  they  used 
to  be  held.    Besides  being  a  market-town,  Cupar  is  also  a  post- 
town.    And  lying  on  the  great  road  that  leads  from  Edinburgh  to 
Dundee  and  the  north  of  Scotland,  through  Fife,  there  are  three 
coaches  that  regularly  pass  through  it  every  day  except  Sunday,  to 
the  north  and  to  the  south.    There  are  also  coaches  to  St  An- 
drews and  to  Largo,  where  there  is  now  a  steam-boat  ferry  to  New- 
haven.    So  that,  with  all  the  conveniences  of  excellent  markets, 
the  inhabitants  of  the  town  and  parish  can  boast  of  as  many  advan- 
tages as  are  possessed  in  any  town  or  parish  of  its  size  in  the  kmg- 
dom.    The  town  of  Cupar,  along  with  St  Andrews  and  CraiU,  the 
two  Anstruthers,  Kilrenny  and  Pittenweem,  send  a  member  to  Par- 

^'^7cdesiastical  State.-The  parish  church  is  situated  as  nearly  as 


CUPAR.  13 


may  be  in  the  middle  of  the  parish.    It  is  a  large  and  commodi- 
ous, though  by  no  means  an  elegant  building,  according  to  the  no- 
tions of  elegance  that  are  now  entertained.    It  was  built  in  1785, 
and  is  in  the  plain  and  unattractive  style  of  that  period.    It  was 
originally  built  to  accommodate  1196;  but,  by  some  slight  altera- 
tions since  made,  it  accommodates  now  1300  sitters.    This,  how- 
ever, is  far  from  being  sufficient  for  a  population  of  6473.  And 
did  the  law  not  define  the  extent  of  the  accommodation  that  pa- 
rishes should  have,  it  might  be  enough,  to  show  the  inadequacy  of 
the  accommodation  in  this  instance,  to  mention  that,  in  July  1835, 
the  number  of  those  that  communicated  at  the  dispensation  of  the 
Lord's  supper  was  1237.    Another  building  of  the  same  dimen- 
sions as  the  present  would  not  furnish  the  requisite  accommodation. 
To  obviate  the  evils  arising  from  this  want,  an  apphcation  was 
made  by  the  kirk-session  to  the  heritors  two  years  ago  to  hire  the 
Mason's  Hall,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  could  not  ha  provided 
with  seats  in  the  church.    This  they  very  readily  did,  and  service 
is  now  performed  in  it  by  the  collegiate  ministers  every  Sabbath, 
to  a  congregation  of  not  less  than  300.    The  sittings  in  this  place 
of  temporary  accommodation  are  all  free.    The  sittings  of  the 
church  are  all  occupied,  and,  with  the  exception  of  about  150, 
which  are  free,  are  all  either  let  at  a  small  rent,  or  are  in  the  na- 
tural possession  of  the  proprietors  and  their  tenants.    To  get  a 
permanent  remedy  for  the  want  of  accommodation,  a  subscription 
was  entered  into  last  year  by  a  number  of  spirited  and  well-affect- 
ed individuals,  among  whom  were  almost  all  the  heritors,  to  build 
another  church  in  a  convenient  part  of  the  town.    The  subscrip- 
tions were  nearly  completed.    An  application  was  made  to  the 
Presbytery  to  sanction  the  erection  of  the  building,  according  to 
the  conditions  proposed  by  the  subscribers.    The  Presbytery  ap- 
proved and  granted  the  apphcation.    But  an  application  made'  to 
the  General  Assembly  of  1835,  to  sanction  the  whole  proceedings, 
was  met  by  an  injunction  from  that  venerable  court,  which  paralyz- 
ed all  the  proceedings  of  the  subscribers  and  of  the  Presbytery ; 
and  whether  the  building  will  now  go  on  is  very  questionable.  It 
IS  very  much  wanted.  It  was  anxiously  wished  for,  by  the  church- 
going  people  of  the  parish.    And  without  it,  the  population  of  the 
parish,  as  they  are  daily  increasing,  must  either  go  off,  against  their 
wdl,  as  they  have  hitherto  done  in  many  instances,  to  the  dissen- 
ters, or  they  must  sink,  as  in  many  other  large  towns,  into  a  state 
of  heathenism,  and  show  all  the  evils  of  spiritual  darkness  in  the 


14 


FIFESHIRE. 


midst  of  the  very  light  in  which  the  people  of  this  country  have  so 
long  rejoiced. 

Though  there  were  originally  two  parishes  in  this  locality,  there 
is  only  a  piece  of  land  of  about  three  acres  got  in  exchange  for  the 
old  kirk-yard,  and  which  goes  under  the  name  of  glebe  for  the  first 
minister,  belonging  to  the  living.  Till  the  decision  of  the  House 
of  Lords  in  the  case  of  Ayr,  there  was  not  even  one  manse.  Suice 
that  decision,  a  manse  has  been  built  for  the  first  minister.  The 
second  minister,  though  his  stipend  is  paid  out  of  the  teinds,  has 
neither  manse  nor  glebe. 

Since  the  last  Account  was  written,  the  number  of  dissentmg 
chapels  has  very  much  increased,  in  consequence,  no  doubt,  of  the 
increase  of  the  population,  added  to  the  want  of  accommodation 
in  the  parish  church.    There  is  an  Episcopalian  chapel ;  two  cha- 
pels belonging  to  the  Relief  connection ;  one  to  the  Associate  Sy- 
nod; one  to  the  Old  Light  Burghers,  or  Original  Seceders;  one  to 
the  Baptists,  and  one  to  the  Glassites.  Till  the  late  voluntary  move- 
ments began  in  the  country,  the  different  dissenting  bodies  stood 
well  affected  to  the  church ;  and,  while  they  retained  their  own 
particular  tenets,  lived  in  a  kindly  understanding  with  the  church. 
The  mass  of  the  people  are  still  well  affected  as  before,  and  show 
a  disposition  to  go  hand  in  hand  with  the  church  in  all  those  mat- 
ters which  tend  to  promote  peace  and  good  feeling.    The  exact 
number  of  Dissenters  and  Seceders  in  the  parish,  it  has  been  found 
impracticable  to  ascertain.  n-i  j 

Divine  service  is,  in  general,  well  attended  in  the  Established 
Church,  and  also  in  the  dissenting  chapels.  The  average  number 
of  communicants  in  the  church  is  1237.  The  stipends  of  the  Es- 
tablished ministers  are  1 8  chalders  each,  half  meal  half  barley,  with 
L.  10  each  for  communion  elements.  The  stipends  allowed  by 
their  people  to  the  dissenting  ministers  are  from  L.  80  to  L.  120 
per  annum. 

There  is  a  Bible  Society  and  a  Missionary  Society  in  the  pa- 
rish, but  supported  by  contributors  from  adjoining  parishes.  Their 
contributions  are  not  great,  and  not  on  the  increase.  The  Bible 
Society  suffered  by  the  Apocryphal  controversy  a  few  years  ago  ; 
and  the  Missionary  Society  is  suffering  now  by  the  voluntary  dis- 
turbances, and  by  the  misunderstanding  that  these  have  produced 
betwixt  churchmen  and  dissenters, 

Education.- There  is  not,  and,  strictly  speaking,  never  has  been, 


CUPAR. 


15 


a  parochial  school  in  the  parish.    Up  till  the  year  1823,  there  were 
two  burgh  schools,  which  were  under  the  sole  patronage  and  direction 
of  the  magistrates, — the  masters'  salaries  being  paid  out  of  the  funds 
of  the  burgh.    In  1823,  a  subscription  was  entered  into,  to  have  an 
academy  erected  according  to  the  approved  model  of  modern  times. 
An  arrangement  was  made  betwixt  the  magistrates  and  the  sub- 
scribers, by  which  the  former  merged  their  rights  of  patronage  and 
direction,  and  agreed  to  be  represented  at  the  meetings  of  the 
subscribers  or  patrons  of  the  academy,  by  certain  members  of  their 
own  body.    They  agreed,  also,  to  pay  a  certain  proportion  of  the 
teachers'  salaries  along  with  the  patrons,  and  to  grant  the  use  of 
the  buildings  belonging  to  them  as  a  corporation,  for  the  academy. 
This  arrangement  still  subsists.    By  the  munificence  of  the  late 
Dr  Bell,  the  estate  of  Egmore  in  Galloway  has  been  left  under 
trustees,  consisting  of  the  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county,  the  Lord 
Justice- Clerk,  the  Sheriff  of  the  county,  the  Provost,  the  Dean 
of  Guild,  and  the  two  parochial  ministers  of  Cupar,  to  be  manag- 
ed for  the  purpose  of  forwarding  the  interests  of  education  accord- 
ing to  the  Madras  system.    By  special  stipulation,  Dr  Bell  wishes 
his  institution  to  be  amalgamated,  under  certain  conditions,  with 
the  academy  as  already  existing.    Hitherto  the  arrangements  have 
not  been  completed.    The  burgh  have  it  in  their  power  to  make 
arrangements  which  may  free  them  and  the  community  from  a  great 
expense,  and  to  secure  for  them  a  great  advantage  under  this  trust. 
But  whether  they  will  see  their  interests,  remains  to  be  proved! 
In  the  meantime,  the  business  of  education  is  conducted  by  Dr 
Bell's  Trustees,  in  concert  with  the  patrons  of  the  academy.  In 
the  academy,  there  are  three  departments  of  teaching :  English 
m  all  its  branches;  the  languages,  ancient  and  modern,  with  geo- 
graphy; arithmetic  in  all  its  branches  and  writing.    The  salaries 
of  the  masters  are  good,  and  the  school-fees  small;  but,  as  there 
IS  nothmg  as  yet  permanently  fixed,  and  as  Dr  Bell's  Trustees  are 
burdened  in  the  meantime  with  the  payment  of  several  annuities 
and  are  therefore  not  yet  come  to  the  use  of  those  funds  which  mav 
enable  them  fully  to  develope  their  plans,  it  is  premature  to  be 
more  particular  at  present.    The  community  are  fully  alive  to  the 
benefits  of  education.    Dr  Bell's  trustees  are  required  to  be  libe- 
lal.     Ihe  result,  consequently,  must  in  time  be  highly  salutary 

Besides  the  academy,  Dr  Bell's  trustees  have  opened  three 
schools  in  the  town,  for  the  benefit  of  the  industrious  classes,  at 
which  education  is  to  be  had  at  the  most  moderate  rates ;  and  in 


1(J  FIFESHIllE. 

cases  wliere  the  parents  are  not  able  to  pay  these  rates,  it  is  to  be 
had,  as  Dr  Bell  stipulates,  upon  making  proper  application,  for 
nothing. 

There  are,  in  addition  to  all  this,  four  female  schools,  and  one 
promiscuous  school,  in  the  town.  Of  the  female  schools,  one  is  un- 
der the  patronage  of  the  magistrates  and  mmisters,  as  trustees  of  a 
fund  of  L.  500,  left  by  the  late  Dr  Gray  of  Paddmgton  Green,  Lon- 
don. And  at  Springfield,  on  the  property  of  David  Maitland  M'G.ll, 
Esq  of  Rankeillor,  there  has  been  erected,  and  also  endowed  by  him, 
a  very  handsome  school  for  the  benefit  of  that  portion  of  the  parish. 
Under  these  circumstances,  there  is  not  a  child  in  the  parish  of  five 
Years  of  age  and  upwards,  but  is  able  to  read,  or  is  at  school  ac- 
quiring that  power.    And,  with  the  attention  that  is  paid  to  reli- 
gious instruction  in  the  different  schools,  there  is  reason  to  believe, 
that,  as  the  people  have  hitherto  improved  in  their  conduct,  and 
morals,  and  religious  character,  through  the  facility  of  acquiring 
education,-so,  through  the  blessing  of  God,  they  will  continue  to 

^"^Litelature.— There  is  one  pubhc  library  in  the  parish,  founded  in 
the  year  1797,  and  which  has  increased  gradually  till  now  it  contains 
upwards  of  4000  volumes.  Dr  Gray  also  bequeathed  his  library  to 
the  subscribers,  which  contains  many  scarce  and  curious  books  Its 
only  regular  source  of  increase  is  the  annual  subscriptions  of  the 
proprietors.    There  are  two  public  reading-rooms,  one  frequented 
by  the  better  classes,  the  other  by  the  mechanics.    There  are  five 
stationers'  shops  in  the  town.    There  are  now  two  printing-presses. 
One  of  these,  under  the  management  of  the  late  Mr  Robert  Tullis, 
had  the  creditof  having  sent  out  Hunter's  immaculate  editions  of  the 
classics     And  there  are  two  newspapers  published  weekly  ;— one 
at  the  office  of  Mr  Tullis,  who  was  the  first  to  publish  a  newspaper 
in  Cupar,  many  years  ago  ;-another  at  the  office  of  the  tifeshire 

Journal,  recently  set  up. 

Charitable  Institutions. -There  is  an  alms-house,  with  a  yaid  at- 
tached, containing.  82  falls  9  ells  Scotch  measure.  This  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  set  apart  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor  of  the  pa- 
rish, about  the  time  that  the  church  was  removed  from  its  former 
site  and  placed  where  it  now  is  in  1415.  There  is  no  exact  trace  of 
its  original.  It  is  in  the  management  of  the  kirk-session,  and,  so  far 
as  their  records  go  back,-to  the  year  1648,-it  is  found  that  it 
was  under  the  same  management  as  it  is  at  present,  kept  in  repair 
Ty  the  session,  disposed  of  by  the  session  for  the  accommodation 


CUPAR. 


17 


of  their  poor,  and  treated  in  all  respects  as  if  it  were  their  sole  and 
inalienable  property.  The  house  contains  accommodation  for  ten 
or  twelve  paupers,  living  two  together  in  the  same  apartment.  And 
the  yard  is  let  every  year  for  the  behoof  of  the  session.  As  there 
is  a  great  want  of  room  for  burying  in  the  present  churchyard,  the 
session  have  resolved  to  feu  or  let  out  the  yards  for  burying-ground 
according  to  a  plan  which  will  reflect  credit  upon  the  place. 

In  addition  to  this  place  of  accommodation  for  the  poor,  which  is 
of  very  ancient  standing,  the  late  David  Knox,  Esq.  of  London,  who 
was  a  native  of  Cupar,  has  left  the  sum  of  L.  3000  Sterling,  for  the 
purpose  of  building  and  endowing  an  asylum  for  females  above  fifty 
years  of  age,  who  have  seen  better  days.  It  is  judiciously  to  be 
placed  under  trustees  not  officially  connected  with  the  town,  and, 
according  to  the  conditions  expressed  in  Mr  Knox's  will,  it  pro- 
mises to  be  of  great  benefit.  The  plan  of  the  building  has  been 
already  drawn  out  by  an  eminent  architect  in  London,  the  site  has 
been  fixed  upon,  and,  through  the  active  benevolence  of  the  testa- 
tor's sister.  Miss  Knox,  the  institution  will,  in  all  probabihty,  be 
completed  and  occupied  in  the  course  of  the  present  year. 

The  trades'  corporations  were  formerly  the  only  friendly  socie- 
ties that  existed.  Their  funds,  however,  being  now  all  squander- 
ed away,  except  those  of  the  weaver  trade,  who  have  a  piece  of 
ground  which  they  are  feuing  out  for  building,  they  contribute  very 
little,  if  any  thing  at  all,  to  their  decayed  members;  and  it  is  no  un- 
common thing  to  find  one  who  once  plumed  himself  on  the  honour 
of  some  civic  office,  either  becoming  himself,  or  allowing  his  widow 
to  become,  a  burden  upon  the  funds  of  the  session. 

Savings  Bank. — There  is  a  savings  bank ;  but  from  the  very  low 
rate  of  interest  which  is  allowed  upon  the  money  deposited  in  it,  it 
meets  with  but  little  support.  The  deposits  altogether  do  not  ex- 
ceed L.  150. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  parish  of  Cupar  presents  still 
an  engaging  specimen  of  the  working  of  the  poor  laws  of  Scotland. 
Great  as  the  population  is,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  any  regular 
assessment  for  the  poor.  They  are  supported,  therefore,  by  the 
collections  at  the  doors  of  the  Established  Church,— by  a  poors' 
box  carried  through  the  town  on  Saturdays, — by  the  dues  upon 
marriages  and  births, — by  the  exertions  of  a  female  society  for  the 
benefit  of  aged  and  decayed  females,— by  a  fund  of  L.  450,  left 
under  the  management  of  the  town  by  the  late  Dr  Gray  already  men- 
tioned,— and  by  voluntary  charity,  exercised  by  private  individuals 

FIFE.  T> 


18  FIFESHIRE. 

and  families  towards  the  well-deserving  of  their  poorer  neighbours. 
Twice  during  the  last  ten  years,  the  heritors  of  the  parish  have 
been  called  upon  to  subscribe  a  sum  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the 
session,  and  at  each  of  these  times  have  subscribed  L.  100,  ac- 
cording to  their  valued  rent.    Altogether,  the  sums  distributed 
by  the  kirk-session  from  church  collections  and  poors'  box  among 
the  poor  upon  their  roll  amount  yearly  to  L.  326,  9s.  0\d.  or  there- 
by   They  make  no  distinction  between  the  members  of  the  church 
and  dissenters,  even  though  the  latter  do  not  contribute  to  their 
funds,  and  they  allow  to  each  pauper  a  sixpence  or  a  shilling,  or 
sometimes  more,  a  week,  according  to  their  circumstances,  making 
their  distributions,  in  as  far  as  they  can,  auxihary  to  the  industrious 
exertions  of  the  individuals.    The  female  society  distributes  about 
L.  35  annually,  and  the  magistrates  out  of  Gray's  fund  distribute 
L.  18  annually. 

The  number  of  the  poor  upon  the  roll  of  the  session  who  re- 
ceive a  weekly  allowance  is  61.    The  number  of  those  who  re- 
ceive occasionally  is  68.    Those  that  receive  from  the  female  so- 
ciety amount  to  30  females;  and  those  that  receive  from  Gray  s 
fund  to  16  males  and  females.    As  many  of  those  that  receive 
from  one  fund  receive  also  from  another,  the  number  of  poor  alto- 
gether may  be  rated  as  amounting  to  150,  and  the  total  sum  dis- 
tributed among  them,  as  amounting  to  L.379,  9s.  O^d.  The  amount 
raised  by  church  collections  is  L.261,  9s.  Ojd.;  by  the  poors  box 
L  65     As  the  kirk-session  do  not  hold  themselves  liable  for  house 
rents,' these  are  often  raised  by  private  application  made  by  the  needy 
themselves  for  subscription  ;  and  there  is  generally  a  distribution  of 
coals  during  the  winter,  procured  by  subscriptions  or  donations. 
Upon  the  whole,  it  may  be  said  that  they  are  well  provided  for. 
T^ey  are  at  the  same  time  contented  and  industrious,  and  grate- 
ful _Yery  different  from  what  the  poor  are  found  to  be  in  parishes 
where  the  system  of  assessment  is  followed.  Several  cases  have  oc- 
curred of  individuals  refusing  to  take  parochial  aid,  even  when  offer- 
ed and  pressed  upon  them.  And  some  have  occurred,  of  individuals 
declinina-  the  allowance  which  has  been  for  a  time  made  to  them, 
after  the°y  found  themselves  so  improved  in  their  circumstances  as 

to  be  able  to  do  without  it.  ,  /.  ,  ^ 

Prison.— There  is  a  prison  in  the  parish  for  the  use  of  the  town 
and  county.  The  number  of  prisoners  confined  in  it  last  year  was 
37.  Of  these,  15  were  for  debt,  and  22  for  stealing,  assault,  and 
such  crimes  as  commonly  occur  in  a  populous  country.    The  com- 


CUPAR.  19 

mitments  before  trial  were  91.  The  prison  is  sufficiently  secure, 
having  been  built  upon  the  most  secure  plan  within  the  last  thirty 
years ;  but  the  accommodation  that  it  affords  is  uniformly  con- 
demned as  most  unworthy  of  the  town  and  county.  The  lodging 
is  bad,  and  reckoned  unhealthy, — there  is  no  room  for  the  classifica- 
tion of  criminals, — there  is  no  chapel  or  place  of  worship  attach- 
ed ;  and  consequently,  any  attempt  to  reclaim  or  improve  those 
that  are  once  committed  to  it,  becomes  absolutely  hopeless.  The 
most  unpractised  being  lodged  in  the  same  cells  with  the  most 
hardened ;  instead  of  a  penitentiary,  the  prison  may  be  said  to  be 
actually  a  school  for  confirming  the  one  and  ruining  the  other. 
Though  the  government  and  superintendence  by  a  jailor  acting 
under  the  Sheriff  of  the  county  and  the  Magistrates  of  the  burgh 
be  good,  yet  the  construction  and  the  defective  accommodation 
destroy  all  their  endeavours  to  soften  or  to  reclaim  its  unhappy  in- 
mates. 

Fairs. — These  are  numerous,  as  already  stated. 

Inns. — Inns  and  alehouses  within  the  burgh  amount  to  49;  the 
number  of  alehouses  in  the  country  part  of  the  parish  amount  to 
4, — making  a  total  of  53,  besides  several  licenses  granted  to  deal- 
ers in  spirits,  who  do  not  keep  public-houses. 

Fuel. — The  fuel  uniformly  used  is  coal,  which  is  to  be  had  in 
great  abundance  from  the  southern  and  western  parts  of  the  county. 
The  distance  being  six  or  ten  miles,  it  is,  however,  not  remarkably 
cheap.  A  railway  would  be  of  great  service  to  the  town,  in  furnish- 
ing the  means  of  having  this  very  essential  necessary  brought  and 
laid  down  at  a  more  reasonable  rate.  And  as  it  is  now  in  contem- 
plation to  open  a  railway  through  Fife,  it  is  to  be  li  oped  that  the 
public  will  soon  have  the  benefit.  Cupar  being  nearly  in  the  direct 
line  of  communication  between  Edinburgh  and  Dundee,  it  is  hoped 
that  the  Royal  Mail  will  be  established  to  run  by  Cupar  as  soon  as 
some  water  piers  are  formed  on  each  side  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and 
which  are  now  in  contemplation. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
When  Buchanan  wrote  his  history,  he  described  St  Andrews 
as  "  Fanum  Andrete  oppidulum  memorabile  propter  bonarum  ar- 
tium  studia,"  and  Cupar  as  the  town  or  oppidulum  "  quo  reliquis 
Fifani  ad  jus  accipiendum  conveniunt."  The  characters  thus  given 
to  these  towns  they  still  retain.  St  Andrews  is  still  the  seat  of 
learning;  and,  the  local  courts,  and  the  public  records  of  the  county 
bemg  all  kept  in  Cupar,  it  is  still  the  seat  of  the  law  and  equity 


20  FIFESHIRE. 

of  the  county,  and  there  are  no  less  than  28  procurators  before 
the  Sheriff-courts,  who  reside  and  carry  on  a  respectable  busi- 
ness, and  hold  a  respectable  rank  in  the  town.  Since  the  last  Ac- 
count, the  number  of  these  procurators  has  increased  from  12 
to  28.  Allowing  to  each  of  them  2  apprentices  or  clerks,  there 
are  no  less  than  84,  all  busied  in  directing  the  course  of  justice^ 
Since  the  time  of  the  last  Account,  a  Sheriff-court  has  been  esta- 
bhshed  at  Dunfermline  for  the  western  district. 

The  principal  change  that  has  taken  place  in  the  town  since 
the  last  account  is  the  removal  of  the  jail,  and  the  town  and 
county  halls,  so  as  to  open  up  the  streets  and  improve  the  thorough- 
fares. The  consequence  is,  that  Cupar  wears  now  the  appear- 
ance of  a  clean  and  comfortable  English  town.  Being  lighted 
up  with  gas,  during  the  night  it  has  a  very  attractive  appearance. 
Its  dimensions  have  been  much  extended  by  the  suburbs  called  the 
Brae-heads,  New  Town,  and  Lebanon. 

The  principal  change  that  has  taken  place  in  the  parish  is  the 
improvement  of  the  cross  roads,  which  are  now,  with  few  exceptions, 
kept  like  turnpikes.  The  villages  of  Springfield  and  Glaidney 
have  also  been  much  extended  since  last  Account,  and  are  still  in- 
creasing. There  have  been  three  handsome  stone  bridges  thrown 
over  the  Eden  to  increase  the  communication  betwixt  the  north  and 
south  sides.  And  should  the  railway  that  is  now  talked  of  be  car- 
ried through,  it  seems  impossible  to  conceive  the  advantages  that 
would  accrue  to  the  town  of  Cupar  and  the  neighbourhood.  The 
people  are  much  the  same  in  character  as  they  were  forty  years  ago, 
—greatly  influenced  by  politics,  and  very  excitable,  but  upon  the 
whole  far  more  temperate  and  reasonable  than  in  many  other  places. 


March  1836. 


PARISH  OF  COLLESSIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  MACFARLANE,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
BouJidaries — Extent. — This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Abdie;  on  the  south,  by  Kettle;  on  the  east,  by  Monimail;  and 
on  the  west,  by  Auchtermuchty.  The  village  is  easily  accessible 
from  any  quarter,  being  near  the  place  where  the  two  roads  cross 
each  other  by  which  the  parish  is  intersected, — the  one  leading 
from  Newburgh  to  Kirkaldy ;  the  other  from  Cupar  to  Kinross. 
The  points  of  the  parish  most  distant  from  each  other,  and  which 
are  between  north-west  and  south-east,  include  a  space  of  eight 
miles.  The  average  breadth  of  the  parish  is  about  four  miles. 
,  Name. —  Collessie  has  always  been  the  name  of  this  parish.  Al- 
though, from  a  few  relics  of  antiquity  that  have  been  found  in  the 
neighbourhood,  but  principally,  I  believe,  from  the  resemblance 
between  the  word  and  the  Roman  Colosseum,  a  classic  origin  has 
been  claimed  for  it,  it  may  with  more  truth  be  referred  to  a  Gae- 
lic source.  The  name  is  a  compound  Gaelic  word,  signifying,  the 
bottom  of  a  glen.  This  derivation  is  corroborated  by  the  fact,  that 
it  is  exactly  descriptive  of  the  situation  of  the  village  which  has  given 
name  to  the  whole  parish. 

Soil,  ^c. — There  is  great  variety  in  the  quality  of  the  soil.  The 
northern  and  north-west  parts  of  the  parish  are  by  far  the  most  fertile. 
In  these  districts,  there  is  a  good  deep  sharp  soil,  principally  upon 
a  whinstone  bottom.  From  the  position  of  the  ground,  too,  situat- 
ed upon  the  sloping  sides  of  the  hills  that  form  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  it  has  a  good  southern  exposure ;  and,  be- 
mg  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  it  produces  early  and  excellent 
crops.  The  eight  farms  of  Hall-hill,  Collessie-mill,  Corn-hill, 
Meadow-wells,  Cold-wells,  Weddersbie,  Wester  Rossie,  and  Lum- 
quhat,  including  in  all  about  1560  Scotch  acres,  present  from  the 
road  to  Auchtermuchty  an  appearance  of  considerable  natural 
beauty,  and  great  agricultural  skill  and  industry.    Although  this 


22 


FIFESHIRE. 


may  be  described  as  the  best  part  of  the  parish  as  to  depth  and  fer- 
tiUty  of  soil,  there  are  some  fields  of  good  ground  both  for  tillage  and 
pasturage,  besides  what  have  been  mentioned,  upon  the  properties 
of  Rossie  and  Kinloch.  Upon  the  estates  of  Rankeilour,  Ramor- 
nie,  and  Pitlair,  too,  as  well  as  belonging  to  the  farms  of  Drumten- 
nant  upon  the  banks  of  the  Eden,  and  the  Bowhouse  and  Shields 
of  Lathrisk  in  the  eastern  and  southern  districts,  there  are  some 
parts  scarcely  inferior  in  soil  and  cultivation. 

Towards  the  centre  and  southern  district  of  the  parish,  however, 
the  soil  for  the  most  part  becomes  light  and  sandy.  It  is  occupied 
to  the  extent  of  some  miles  by  fir  plantations.  Much  of  the  ground 
here  does  not  seem  capable  of  being  turned  to  better  account. 
Some  recent  attempts,  at  least,  to  clear  and  cultivate  it  have  prov- 
ed unsuccessful.    The  wood,  however,  is  of  considerable  value. 
Besides  the  country  purposes  to  which  it  is  applicable  in  fencmg, 
and  even  roofing  and  flooring,  large  quantities  of  it  are  shipped 
from  the  port  of  Newburgh  to  Newcastle  and  other  parts  of  Eng- 
land for  planks  and  coal-props.    When  full  grown  it  may  bring 
from  L.  40  to  L.  50 ;  when  cut  down  at  half-growth,  it  may  be 
worth  at  the  rate  of  about  L.  20  per  Scotch  acre. 

The  climate,  which,  in  consequence  of  extensive  draining  and 
enclosure,  and  an  advancing  state  of  cultivation,  has  of  late  years 
been  greatly  improved,  is  dry  and  healthful.  There  are  no  dis- 
tempers or  epidemics  peculiar  to  the  parish.  Many  instances  of 
great  acre  having  been  attained  by  the  parishioners  might  be  ad- 
duced fn  evidence  of  the  salubrity  of  our  atmosphere.  There  is 
at  present  an  elder  in  the  parish,  who  is  in  church  every  Sabbath, 
and  who  was  born  in  the  year  1745.  Cases  of  no  remote  date  are 
upon  record,  of  parishioners  having  lived  above  a  hundred  years. 

HtjdroffrapJnj.-Smce  the  draining  of  Rossie  Loch,  which  was 
partially  done  in  1740,  and  more  perfectly  accomplished  at  a  sub- 
sequent period,  there  is  no  lake  worthy  of  notice  in  the  parish. 
That  was  once,  indeed,  the  largest  sheet  of  water  in  the  county, 
abounding  in  perch  and  pike.  There  are  several  rivulets  that  di- 
versify  and  enliven  the  landscape;  among  which,  one  of  the  most 
considerable  is  the  water  of  Keilour,  which  forms  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  parish,  dividing  it  from  Mommail.  The  only 
stream  we  have,  entitled  to  the  name  of  a  river,  is  the  Eden,  which 
mves  its  designation  to  the  strath,  and  ghdes  with  noiseless  curren 
Lough  the  central  vale  or  How  of  Fife.  This  nver  rvms  abou 
three  miles  along  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  dividing  it 


COLLESSIE. 


23 


from  that  of  Kettle.  Even  this  stream  is  not  more  than  twenty-five 
feet  broad  in  any  part  of  its  course  along,  the  confines  of  the  pa- 
rish ;  nor  does  it  become  considerable  till  it  reaches  the  Guard 
Bridge  in  the  parish  of  St  Andrews,  where  it  forms  an  estuary  of 
the  German  Ocean. 

Geology. — As  no  mines  of  any  description  are  wrought  in  this 
parish,  and  no  considerable  portion  of  the  strata  or  formation  of  its 
rocks  is  exposed  to  view,  it  presents  no  feature  of  interest  to  the  eye 
of  the  geologist.  The  only  organic  remains  of  any  consequence 
of  which  I  have  heard  being  found  in  the  parish,  were  the  large 
branching  horns  and  almost  the  entire  skeleton  of  an  elk  of  great 
size,  which  were  dug  up  a  few  years  ago  in  the  marl  pits  of  Pit- 
lair,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish.  At  the  same  place  were 
found  several  segments  of  the  oak,  denoting  great  circumference 
and  corresponding  length  in  the  trees  of  which  they  had  formed  a 
part ;  probably  a  portion  of  the  primeval  timber  that  grew  in  the 
district,  and  so  few  traces  of  which  are  now  to  be  found. 

There  is  excellent  whin  or  greenstone  open  in  the  parish  ;  it 
is  much  used  for  building,  for  which  purpose  it  is  at  once  durable 
and  ornamental.  Sandstone  has  also  been  exposed  on  the  proper- 
ty of  Rankeilour,  though  not  wrought  to  any  considerable  extent. 
Great  quantities  of  marl  too,  both  shell  and  clay,  are  found  in  the 
parish.  It  was  formerly  much  used,  and  some  of  it  even  shipped 
to  the  Carse  of  Gowrie.  It  is  now  little  in  demand,  except  for  top- 
dressing  and  forming  compounds  for  grass.  It  may  perhaps  have 
been  formerly  applied  in  too  large  quantities,  or  the  cropping  may 
have  been  too  severe  after  it. 

Botany. —  I  have  been  kindly  furnished  by  one  of  the  heritors 
with  the  following  notice  of  the  rarer  plants  found  in  the  parish. 
It  may  be  proper,  however,  to  mention,  in  reference  to  this  enu- 
meration, that,  although  part  of  the  banks  of  the  Black  Loch  are 
in  this  parish,  the  loch  itself  lies  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Abdie. 

There  is  nothing  in  this  parish  which  would,  a  priori,  seem  to 
indicate  a  great  variety  in  its  botany  ;  but,  when  more  accurately 
viewed,  we  find  that,  being  bounded  by  water  on  the  north  and  south, 
and  occupied  in  the  centre  by  a  wood  of  several  miles  in  extent,  in 
which  there  are  several  large  marshes,  few  parishes  are  in  this  re- 
spect more  favourably  situated.  A  very  brief  view  of  the  rare  plants 
to  be  found  within  it  will  not  disappoint  the  botanist. 

The  Hippuris  is  found  at  Monkstown,  and  near  the  edges  of  the 
Black  Loch ;  the  Scirpus  sylvaticus  is  found  on  Edensmuir,  and 


24 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  Eriophonm  polT/siachion  is  common  there  and  in  the  other 
marshes  of  the  district;  the  Alopecurus (/eniculatusf  var.  7.  is  found 
at  Lawfield;  the  Affrostis  alba,  var.  /S,  (the  Fiorin  grass)  on  the 
banks  of  the  Eden;  the  Ghjccria  fuitans  is  not  uncommon,  and 
is  noticed  here  as  forming  the  chief  grass  in  a  meadow  at  the  north 
end  of  the  Black  Loch  ;  the  Poa  nemoralis  grows  in  patches  on 
Edensmuir  ';  the  Triodia  decumbens  is  to  be  found  on  the  farm  of 
Birns;  the  Lolium  temulenhm  is  occasionally  met  with.    It  is 
supposed  the  intoxicating  and  noxious  effects  of  its  weeds  is  exagge- 
rated.   The  smooth  variety  of  the  Scabiosa  arvensis,  a  plant  which, 
Sir  James  Smith  says,  has  never  been  seen  in  England,  grows  on 
Ballomill.    The  Potamogeton  lanceolatum,  var.  (3.  (without  any 
floating  leaves)  grows  on  the  Black  Loch;  and  P.  pusillum  in  the 
old  bed  of  the  Eden  near  Pitlessie  Bridge,  and  it  is  not  uncommon 
in  the  district.  The  minute  Radiola  millegrana  is  found  on  Edens- 
muir,  on  those  places  overflowed  in  winter.    The  Cynoglossum  of- 
ficinah  is  found  near  Trafalgar.    The  Eddum  vulgare  is  only  men- 
tioned, because  dangerous  to  bees,  as  it  tears  their  wings,  and  should 
be  eradicated  by  each  bee-master.   The  Solanum  dulcamara,  sup- 
posed by  Hooker  to  be  rare  in  Scotland,  grows  in  many  places  of 
the  district;  it  grows  on  the  banks  of  the  Eden,  on  the  farm  of 
Lawfield.    The  Gentiana  campestris  grows  at  Daftmill  and  near 
Ramornie.    The  poisonous  Conium  maculatum  is  to  be  found  near 
Trafalgar.    The  Sambucus  Ebulus  grows  near  Kinloch,  where  it 
was  found  by  the  late  Dr  Malcolm.    The  beautiful  Drosera  ro- 
tundifolia  is  found  plentifully  in  the  marshes  of  Edensmuir,  and  a 
dead  fly  is  not  unfrequent  in  its  leaves.    Luciola  congesta  (Luzula 
congesta,  Hooker,)  is  found  near  Ramornie.    The  Bumex  sangui- 
neus grows  near  Melville.  The  B.  acutus  grows  in  many  places;  it 
is  used  by  the  country  people  as  a  vulnerary.    The  Calluna  vul- 
garis and  Erica  tetralix  and  cinerea  are  all  occasionally  found  with 
white  flowers;  and  the  variety  oi  E.  cinerea,  named  by  Loddiges 
E.  cinerea,  also  purpurea,  grows  in  considerable  quantity  near  Ra- 
mornie.   The  Polygonum  aviculare  is  noticed,  because  horses  are 
particularly  fond  of  it,  and  it  will  grow  on  the  poorest  soils.  The 
Pyrola  minor  is  the  only  Pyrola  as  yet  found  in  the  parish ;  it 
grows  on  many  places  of  Edensmuir.    Arenaria  rubra  grows  on 
Hetherinch.    The  Sedum  relepliium  on  Ballomill,  and  near  the 
Eden.    A  white  flowering  variety  of  Lychnis  Flos-Cuculi  is  not  un- 
common.   The  Cerastium  aquaticum  is  rare  in  this  part  of  the 
country.    A  single  plant  of  it  was  found  near  Pitlessie  dam-dike. 


COLLESSIE. 


25 


The  Lythrum  salicaria  grows  on  Hetherincb,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Eden.    The  Reseda  lutea  has  been  found  on  BallomilL  The 
Spircea  Filipendula  grows  on  the  farm  of  Birns ;— this  beautiful 
plant  is  only  found  in  two  other  places  in  the  county,  viz.  North 
Queensferry  and  Aberdour.    The  Torment'dla  reptans  has  been 
found  in  the  willow  grounds  near  Ramovnie.    The  beautiful  Nym- 
phcea  alba  and  Nupliar  lutea  are  found  abundantly  in  the  Black 
Loch;  the  latter  also  grows  in  the  river  Eden,  near  Pitlessie  Bridge. 
The  Ranunculus  Flammula,  var.  k  is  very  common  in  Edensmuir. 
The  R.  auricomus  is  met  with  in  Melville  plantations.   The  Trol- 
lius  EuropcBus  (the  Luckan  gowan  of  Allan  Ramsay)  grows  in  con- 
siderable quantity  on  BallomilL    The  Mentha  viridis,  not  yet  no- 
ticed as  a  native  of  Scotland,  grows  betwixt  Collessie  and  Kinloch. 
As  it  has  been  met  with  at  two  other  places  within  the  county,  it 
seems  an  undoubted  native.    The  Galeopsis  versicolor  is  plentiful 
in  the  parish.  The  Thymus  serpyllum,  var.  7.  grows  on  Edensmuir. 
The  Digitalis  purpurea  var.  Jlore  alba  is  found  on  Peterhead, 
where  the  Camelina  sativa  has  also  been  found  growing.  The 
Nasturtium  terrestre  is  found  at  a  pond  near  the  Earl  of  Leven's 
cottages,  and  on  the  edges  of  the  Black  Loch.    The  Barbarea 
vulgaris  grows  near  Collessie,  on  the  burn.    The  Erodium  cicu- 
tarium,  both  with  pink  and  white  flowers,  is  pretty  common ;  also 
the  beautful  Geranium  pratense  is  found  near  Pitlessie  Bridge. 
The  Malva  moschata  grows  near  Lumquhat.    The  Genista  anglica 
grows  plentifully  on  Edensmuir  and  near  Ramornie.    The  beauti- 
ful Anthyllis  vxdnerdria  will  be  found  near  the  road  betwixt  Hether- 
incb and  Daftmill.    The  Trifolium  officinale  has  been  found  on 
Lawfield.    The  Leontodon  palustre  is  found  occasionally  in  the 
marshes.    The  Hieracium  murorum  is  found  on  the  walls.  The 
H.  sylvaticum  is  frequent  in  the  woods.    The  Cichorium  Intyhus 
grows  at  Daftmill,  and  is  not  uncommon  in  the  district.    The  Bi~ 
dens  tripartita  grows  on  Drumtennant,  and  at  the  south  end  of  the 
Black  Loch.    The  Gnaphalium  dioicum,  uliginosum,  and  germa- 
nicum  grow  on  Edensmuir.    The  Senecio  lividus  and  sylvaticus 
grow  in  the  parish ;  the  former  sparingly,  the  latter  abundantly. 
These  species  are  perfectly  distinct,  and  cannot  be  mistaken.  The 
S.  aquaticum  is  abo  to  be  found.    The  Orchis  bifolia  grows  near 
Monkstown;  the  O.  mascula  on  Lawfield;  the  O.  latifolia,  ma- 
cidata,  and  Conopsea  on  Edensmuir.  The  Sparganium  simplex  grows 
on  the  edges  of  the  Black  Loch  only  2  or  3  inches  high ;  while 
in  Pitlessie  dam  it  has  leaves  6  or  8  feet  long.    There  is  a  con- 


26 


FIFESHIRE. 


siderable  number  of  Carices  on  Edensmuir :  the  C.  pulicaris  grows 
near  Ramornie ;  the  C.  stellulata,  curta,  pejidula,  Jiava,  prcBcox, 
piluligera,  paludosa,  and  riparia  on  Edensmuir;  while  the  C.  liirta 
grows  near  the  Black  Loch.  The  C.  arenaria,  so  common  on 
the  sea  coast,  is  found  on  the  lands  of  Ramornie,  running  among 
the  sand  at  a  distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  sea.  Littorella  lacus- 
tris  grows  round  the  Black  Loch.  The  Poterium  sanguisorha 
was  found  near  Birns  farm.  The  Betula  alba,  var.  /?.  grows  at 
Rankeilour,  while  the  Pinus  sylvestris,  either  planted  or  native, 
covers  the  lands  of  Edensmuir.  Besides  the  cultivated  willows, 
such  as  the  Triandra,  fragilis,  decipiens,  Russelliana,  rubra,  cine- 
rea,  viminalis,  and  alba;  the  repens,  aquatica,  and  caprea  are 
found  in  their  native  situations.  Myrica  Gale  grows  abundantly  in 
the  marsh  at  Muirside.  The  Aspidiwn  Oreopteris  is  found  on 
Edensmuir,  along  with  the  Blechnum  boreale  and  the  Lycopodium 
clavatum.  Botrychium  lunaria  is  found  on  the  pastures  of  Ballo- 
miU. 

It  would  be  improper  here  to  enter  the  names  of  the  other 
cryptogamic  plants,  but  it  may  be  mentioned  that  it  is  supposed 
there  is  no  parish  in  Scotland  where  there  is  an  equal  number  of 
agarics;  125  species  were  gathered  previous  to  the  dry  summer  in 
1826.  They  have  not  been  so  numerous  since  that  year ;  but  many 
sorts  which  had  not  been  seen  for  years  have  again  made  their  ap- 
pearance, so  that  it  is  probable  they  will  now  rather  exceed  than 
fall  short  of  that  number. 

TL — Civil  History. 

Pictures— ^^wAex  this  head  it  may  be  mentioned,  that  there  is  in 
the  possession  of  Charles  Kinnear,  Esq.  of  Kinloch,  three  original 
paintings  by  our  countryman  Wilkie.  They  are  interesting  not  only 
as  some  of  the  earliest  productions  of  his  genius,  but  as  indicating  by 
their  history,  the  good  feelings  of  his  heart.  They  were  painted  for 
the  late  Mr  Kinnear,  and  presented  to  him  by  the  artist,  in  testi- 
mony of  the  kindness  and  friendship  he  experienced  at  Kinloch  in 
early  life,  and  on  this  account  are  much  valued  by  the  family.  They 
are  in  that  peculiar  style  of  his  art  in  which  he  has  acquired  the 
greatest  celebrity.  It  was  by  the  largest  of  these  pictures,  indeed, 
that  he  first  came  into  notice.  The  subject  is  "  Pitlessie  fair,"  con- 
taining upwards  of  150  figures,  the  labour  of  a  year.  The  size  is  3 
feet  9  inches  by  2  feet.  The  grouping  is  admirable.  The  princi- 
pal figures  in  the  piece  are  characters  who  were  well  known  in  the 
neighbourhood  during  the  early  life  of  the  artist,  which  gives  a 


COLLESSIE. 


2.7 


oreater  interest  and  value  to  his  painting  as  a  record  of  the  times. 
It  is  considered  equal  in  merit  to  some  of  the  more  recent  and 
most  admired  productions  of  his  pencil. 

Eminent  Men. — Among  the  eminent  characters  connected  with  this 
parish,  is  the  distinguished  courtier  Sir  James  Melville,  who  figured 
during  the  reign  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  and  who,  according  to 
his  own  relation,  performed  so  many  feats  of  dexterous  diplomacy 
between  the  rival  queens  of  Scotland  and  England.  He  was  proprie- 
tor of  the  estate  of  Hall-hill.  This  property,  it  appears,  originally 
belonged  to  Henry  Balnaves,  who,  in  1542,  was  Deputy- Keeper  of 
the  Privy- Seal,  and  the  following  year,  Secretary-Depute.  The 
lands  of  Hall-hill  were  by  him  disposed  of  to  Sir  James  Melville, 
who  was  third  son  to  Sir  John  Melville  of  Raith,  one  of  the  early 
promoters  of  the  Reformed  faith.  The  property  continued  in  his 
family  till  the  reign  of  Charles  H.,  when  it  was  purchased  by  the 
Earl  of  Melville.  No  trace  of  the  house  now  remains,  and  the 
ground  where  it  stood  forms  part' of  the  present  enclosures  of 
Melville.* 

The  celebrated  Dr  Hugh  Blair  commenced  his  ministry  in  this 
parish,  to  the  pastoral  charge  of  which  he  was  ordained  on  the  23d 
September  in  the  year  1742.  I -have  in  my  possession  a  list  of 
the  names  of  the  ministers  of  the  parish  as  far  back  as  1578.  There 
have  been  fifteen  ministers  since  that  year,  previous  to  the  present 
incumbent,  of  whom  it  appears  that  four  were  removed  to  other 
charges.  One,  Mr  John  Ogilvie,  was  ejected  during  the  attempt  to 
establish  Episcopacy  in  Scotland  before  the  Revolution  of  1688 ; 
and  the  rest  seem  to  have  died  in  the  parish. 

Antiquities. — There  are  several  antiquities  in  the  parish  as  to 

•  The  family  burying-ground  of  Sir  James  is  in  the  churchyard  of  Collessie,  upon 
one  of  the  walls  of  which  the  following  inscription  can  still  be  decyphered,  though 
much  obliterated  by  the  hand  of  time. 

1609. 

Ye  •  loadin  •  pilgrims  •  passing  •  langs  .  this  •  way, 

Paus  •  on  •  your  •  fall,  •  and  •  your  •  offences  •  past. 

Hou  •  your  •  frail  •  flesh,  •  first  •  formit  •  of  ■  the  •  clay. 

In  •  dust  •  mon  •  be  •  dissolvit  •  at  •  the  •  last  • 

Repent  •  amend  •  on  •  Christ  •  the  •  burden  •  cast  . 

Of  •  your  •  sad  •  sinnes  •  who  •  can  •  your  •  savls  •  refresh  • 

Syne  •  raise  •  from  •  grave  •  to  •  gloir  •  your  •  grislie  •  flesh  • 

Defyle  •  not  •  Christ's  •  kirk  •  with  •  your  •  carion  • 

A  •  solemn  •  sait  •  for  •  God's  •  service  •  prepar'd  • 

For  •  praicr ;  •  preaching  •  and  •  communion  • 

Your  •  byrial  •  should  •  be  •  in  •  the  •  kirk  •  yard 

On  •  your  •  uprysing  •  set  *  your  •  great  •  regard  • 

When  •  savll  •  and  ■  body  •  joyncs  •  with  •  joy  •  to  •  ring  • 

In  •  Heaven  •  for  •  ay  •  with  •  Christ  •  our  •  head  •  and  •  king  • 


28 


FIFESHIRE. 


which  no  very  certain  information  is  possessed,  but  which  might  fur- 
nish interesting  subject  of  investigation  to  those  who  devote  them- 
selves to  such  inquiries.  One  of  the  most  prominent  of  our  me- 
morials of  past  times  is  a  mound,  consisting  of  a  cairn  of  stones,  a 
short  distance  south  of  the  village  of  CoUessie,  usually  called  the 
Gash-hill.  It  is  about  twelve  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ground. 
It  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  a  Roman  station.  It 
consists  of  loose  stones,  now  grown  over  with  turf.  A  few  years, 
ago  a  sword,  about  eighteen  inches  in  length,  with  one  edge,  and 
so  formed  that  it  might  be  used  either  for  cutting  or  thrusting,  but 
much  corroded  by  time,  was  dug  up  from  among  the  stones.  Some 
fragments,  too,  of  human  bones  were  found  here,  enclosed  by  a  few 
large  flat  stones.  From  their  appearance,  position,  and  mixed  state, 
and  their  having  evidently  been  subjected  to  the  action  of  fire,  it 
would  require  less  effort  of  fancy,  than  antiquarians  sometimes 
exert,  to  suppose  these  remains  to  have  consisted  of  what  the  Ro- 
mans called  the  ossilegium,  or  gathering  up  of  the  bones,  after  the 

body  was  burnt. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  east  of  the  village,  and  within  the 
grounds  of  Melville,  there  is  one  of  those  large  whinstones  placed 
on  its  end,  so  frequently  seen  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  It  is 
upwards  of  nine  feet  above  the  ground,  and  about  six  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. This  stone  is  near  the  spot  where  the  house  of  Hall- 
hill  stood,  but  probably  of  much'greater  antiquity. 

Tradition  marks  two  spots  near  the  hamlet  of  Trafalgar,  and 
at  about  equal  distances  to  the  east  and  the  west  of  the  inn  known 
by  that  name,  as  the  sites  of  two  ancient  military  forts,  which  were 
probably  intended  to  secure  the  pass  leading  from  Newburgh  to 
the  central  part  of  Fife.  This  must  have  been  a  station  of  great 
importance  in  times  of  war,  as,  with  the  exception  of  one  other 
pass,  it  formed  the  only  access  to  the  interior  of  the  county  froni 
the  north.  The  loch  that  lies  upon  the  road  between  this  place 
and  Newburgh  has  in  consequence  received  the  name  of  Lindores, 
(Linne-doris)  the  water  of  the  pass. 

The  eastern  fort  was  called  Agahatha,  or  marsh-field  castle. 
This  name  was  appropriate  to  its  situation,  as,  within  the  last  forty 
years,  the  fields  adjoining  the  little  eminence  called  a  castle,  were 
a  coinplete  marsh,  although  now  under  cultivation.  The  eminence 
itself  was  surrounded  by  a  ditch  or  moat,  forming  in  a  remote  age 
the  most  effective  kind  of  fortification.  Several  relics  of  antiquity 
have  been  found  at  this  place.    Among  others  a  quern  or  hand- 


COLLESSIE.  29 

mill  of  mica  slate,  a  mineral  not  belonging  to  Fife.  A  number  of 
coins  also,  belonging  to  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  of  England,  were 
here  turned  up  by  the  plough.  They  are  the  coinage  of  different 
towns,  as  London,  Canterbury,  and  York,  but  are  evidently  all  of 
the  same  reign. 

The  western  fort  is  called  the  Maiden  Castle.  A  clump  of  trees 
planted  by  the  late  proprietor,  Mr  Thomson,  points  out  its  situa- 
tion. The  tradition  as  to  the  origin  of  this  name  is,  that  during 
a  siege  laid  to  this  station,  the  governor  died,  and  that  his  daugh- 
ter, concealing  the  event,  gave  the  necessary  orders  in  his  name, 
and  that  the  castle  thus  defended  held  out  till  the  enemy  was 
obliged  to  retire.  There  is  scarcely  any  thing  in  the  external  ap- 
pearance of  the  grounds  in  either  of  these  places  that  would  ar- 
rest the  attention  of  an  observer  unacquainted  with  these  tradi- 
tions. But  in  the  fields  adjoining,  and  particularly  in  the  inter- 
vening space  between  these  two  stations,  there  are  many  traces,  in 
the  human  bones,  stone  coffins  and  urns,  which  from  time  to  time 
have  been  dug  up, — that  point  out  this  place  to  have  been,  at  a  re- 
mote period,  the  scene  of  battles  and  of  sepulture. 

Among  the  most  entire  of  these  remains  may  be  mentioned  two 
urns,  said  to  be  perfect  specimens  of  the  ancient  Celtic  urn,  for  de- 
positing the  ashes  of  the  dead.  One  of  these,  still  to  be  seen  at 
Kinloch,  is  made  of  bluish  clay.  Its  height  is  about  eighteen 
inches,  and  its  diameter  at  the  widest  part  about  fifteen  inches,  like 
a  bee's  cap,  a  little  more  conical.  It  was  found  at  the  depth  of  a 
foot  below  the  surface,  in  an  inverted  position,  on  a  flat  slab  of 
stone,  and  enclosing  several  human  bones  which  have  been  partial- 
ly burnt.  The  other  urn,  which  has  been  carried  away  in  frag- 
ments by  different  visitors,  was  in  every  respect  similar,  only  its 
dimensions,  somewhat  smaller  than  that  described.  * 

•  From  its  proximity  to  Falkland,  the  frequent  residence  of  James  VI,  this  parish 
is  recorded  to  have  been  the  scene  of  some  of  the  eccentric  feats  and  munificent  acts 
of  that  facetious  prince.  The  following  is  one  of  the  most  authentic.  It  is  related 
that  in  the  disguise,  which  he  often  assumed,  of  a  poor  travelling  man,  he  knocked 
one  evening  at  the  door  of  the  miller's  house  of  Ballomill.  After  some  little  difficul- 
ty he  obtained  quarters  for  the  night.  He  joined  the  circle  round  the  miller's  fire- 
side, and  partook  of  their  social  glee,  as  well  as  of  their  homely  cheer.  The  miller's 
frank  and  honest  bearing  gained  upon  the  good  opinion  of  the  King,  his  hospitality 
and  kindness  increasing  as  he  became  more  intimate  with  the  stranger.  In  the  morn- 
ing, accompanying  his  unknown  guest  in  familiar  converse  to  the  extremity  of  the 
farm,  they  were  met,  according  to  previous  appointment,  by  the  royal  guards.  The 
miller  then  saw  with  astonishment  that  he  had  had  the  honour  of  entertaining  the 
King.  At  parting,  to  reward  his  hospitality,  and  at  the  same  time  to  try  his  know- 
ledge of  fractions,  his  Majesty  asked  the  miller,  whether  he  would  have  the  fourth 
part,  or  the  eighth  part,  or  the  sixteenth  part  of  the  lands  on  which  they  stood.  The 
miller  pondered  a  little  a  question  so  important,  and  said  to  himself,  to  ask  the  sax- 


30 


FIFESHIRE. 


III. — Population. 
It  appears  from  the  account  of  this  parish,  pubHshed  in  the  for- 
mer Statistical  Account,  that  in  the  year  179],  the  population  was 
949  souls.    By  the  last  census  of  1831,  the  population  amount- 
ed to  1162,  viz.  559  males,  and  603  females.    The  increase  is  to 
be  referred  to  the  steadily  advancing  prosperity  and  improve- 
ment of  the  country.    Besides  the  village  of  Collessie,  which  con- 
tains 180  inhabitants,  there  are  several  other  villages  and  ham- 
lets in  the  parish.    Three  of  these  are  of  recent  erection,  viz. 
Gifferton,  Edenston,  and  Monkston,    The  houses  of  which  they 
are  formed  are  well  arranged,  neat,  and  comfortable.     That  a 
greater  increase  of  the  population  has  not  taken  place  in  conse- 
quence of  the  recent  erection  of  these  villages,  is  accounted  for 
by  the  almost  entire  removal  of  the  village  of  Kinloch,  which,  not 
many  years  ago,  was  the  largest  in  the  parish,  containing  191  in- 
habitants.   A  considerable  number  of  the  families  formerly  resid- 
ing there  now  occupy  Monkston.    This  village  consists  of  twenty- 
four  houses  forming  one  line,  with  an  interval  of  twelve  feet  between 
every  four  houses,  so  that  the  whole  is  divided  into  six  squares. 
The  place  originally  called  Monks-moss  takes  its  name  from  the 
district  where  it  is  situated,  having  been  granted  to  the  monks  of 
St  Mary's  at  Lindores  Abbey  to  supply  them  with  heather  and 
moss  for  fuel. 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  -  -  -  247 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  - 

trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,  104 

Upwards  of  100  of  the  families  live  in  the  several  villages,  the 
rest  in  the  country  part  of  the  parish.  The  yearly  average,  as  ap- 
pears from  the  sessional  books,  which  have  recently  been  kept  with 
considerable  accuracy,  is,  for  the  last  seven  years,  of  births,  18;  of 
deaths,  U ;  of  marriages,  9. 

Resident  Land-owners.— parish  has  the  advantage  of  the 
permanent  residence  of  most  of  its  landed  proprietors.  To  begin 
at  the  western  extremity  :— John  Cheape,  Esq.  of  Rossie ;  Miss 
Arnot  of  Lochie  Head ;  Charles  Kinnear,  Esq.  of  Kinloch ;  Wil- 
liam Walker,  Esq.  of  Pitlair;  D.  Maitland  Makgill,  Esq.  of  Ran- 
keilour ;  of  whom  the  two  last  mentioned  gentlemen  are  also  elders 
in  the  parish, — all  reside  upon  their  estates. 

teenth  part  wud  be  o'er  greedy,  to  ask  the  fourth  part  would  be  chcatin  mysell,  I'li 
Jen  trikc  between  the  twa  ami  ask  the  aught.  In  consequence  of  tins  decision  ti  e 
ci  Jhtl  1  art  of  the  lands  of  Ballomill  was  measured  off  to  him,  which  long  remained  in 
thf  m  ller's  fo^  The  description  in  the  title  deed  still  runs  "  All  and  whole  of 

tie  one  dghth  part  of  the  lands  of  Ballomill."  The  royal  charter  by  which  it  was 
conveyed  is  still  preserved  in  the  parish. 


COLLESSIE. 


31 


,  So  manv  of  the  heritors  permanently  resident,  not  only  form  a 
pleasant  neighbourhood,  but  their  residence  exerts  a  very  favour- 
able influence  upon  the  condition  and  moral  character  of  the  whole 
population.  "Anxious  as  the  gentlemen  of  the  parish  are  to  give 
employment  to  the  labouring-classes,  and  to  relieve  the  necessities 
of  the  poor,  their  liberality,  as  will  appear  in  a  subsequent  part  of 
this  account,  is  of  great  benefit  to  the  parish.  And  it  may  be  said 
of  the  people  at  large,  that  they  enjoy,  in  a  very  considerable  de- 
gree, the  comforts  and  advantages  of  society. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  2  illegitimate  births. 

IV. — Industry. 

Manufactures. — There  are  no  manufactories  or  public  works  in 
this  parish.  Yet  more  than  a  hundred  families  are  supported  by  hand- 
loom  weaving,  the  materials  beingsupplied  by  agents,  and  the  manu- 
factured goods  transmitted  by  them  to  Glasgow,  Dundee,  and  Aber- 
deen. It  requires  great  industry  to  enable  a  weaver  to  make  9s.  a- 
week.  Females  are  also  employed  in  this  occupation,  whose  earn- 
ings are  scarcely  so  good. 

Agriculture. — The  number  of  acres,  imperial  measure,  cultivated 
or  occasionally  in  tillage,  is  about  5000.  There  may  be  between  200 
and  300  imperial  acres  of  marshy  and  barren  land  lying  continually 
waste,  almost  the  whole  of  which  might  be  improved  for  pasture,  or 
planted  to  advantage.  The  only  common  in  the  parish,  viz.  Edens- 
muir  and  Monks-moss,  was  divided  by  Adam  Holland,  Esq.  advo- 
cate, as  arbiter,  about  forty  years  ago. 

Plantations. — The  greater  part  of  that  common,  extending  in  all 
to  967  imperial  acres,  has  been  planted,  chiefly  in  fir.  Weddersbie 
hill,  also,  extending  to  upwards  of  200  imperial  acres,  was  planted 
upwards  of  twenty  years  ago  by  William  Johnston,  Esq.  of  Lathrisk, 
the  proprietor.  The  plantations  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  man- 
sions in  the  parish  extend  to  60  or  70  acres, — so  that  the  total  wood- 
land may  be  about  1237  imperial  acres. 

In  Edensmuir  and  Monks-moss  the  wood  planted  is  chiefly  fir,  too 
generally  of  a  soft  yellow  pine,  by  mistake,  instead  of  the  Scotch 
fir.  This  great  forest  did  not,  in  due  time,  receive  judicious  pe- 
riodical thinnings,  which,  from  the  lightness  of  the  soil,  it  particu- 
larly required.  It  is,  consequently  in  many  places,  not  in  a  thriv- 
ing state,  and  the  trees  will  not  reach  above  two-thirds  of  the  size  to 
which  they  might  otherwise  have  attained. 

Upwards  of  twenty  years  ago,  a  large  fir  plantation  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  common,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Leven  and  Melville, 


32 


FIFESIIIUE. 


suddenly  died,  when  come  to  about  two-thirds  of  its  growth.  The* 
decay  was  so  rapid  that  httle  value  was  secured.  Numbers  of  in- 
sects were  found  on  the  trees.  This  extraordinary  effect  is  pro- 
bably to  be  referred  to  the  want  of  proper  thinning,  the  poor  soil 
being  unable  to  sustain  so  large  a  crop.  The  space  once  occupied 
by  this  plantation  still  retains  the  name  of  the  "  Dead  Wood."  In 
the  thriving  plantation  of  Weddersbie  hill,  there  is,  along  with  the 
fir  in  the  better  parts  of  the  soil,  a  judicious  admixture  of  larch  and 
the  ordinary  forest  trees.  In  planting  Edensmuir,  the  genuine  Scotch 
fir  ought  to  be  introduced;  and  everywhere  except  on  the  poorest 
parts  of  the  soil,  an  admixture  ought  to  be  supplied  of  larch  and  of 
the  hardy  species  of  forest  trees. 

Bent— The  rent  of  arable  land  in  the  parish  varies  according 
to  its  quality,  from  10s.  to  L.  2,  10s.  per  Scotch  acre. 

gfock.  The  Fifeshire  breed  of  black  cattle  is  reared.  It  is  much 

•crossed  with  various  breeds,  chiefly,  however,  with  the  short-horned 
or  Teeswater,  and  with  the  Angus  polled  breed.  More  attention 
should  be  given  to  preserving  and  propagating  the  pure  breed  of 
the  county.  It  combines  in  a  great  degree  the  hardiness  of  the 
Highland  with  the  size  of  the  southern  breeds. 

Husbandry.— The  mode  of  farming  pursued  in  the  parish  is  si- 
milar to  that  of  the  district  at  large.  The  common  duration  of 
leases  is  nineteen  years.  And  the  rents  are  now  generally  fixed, 
partly  in  money  and  partly  in  grain,  according  to  the  fiars  of  the 
county.  The  farm-buildings  are  generally  good  and  commodious, 
and  the  fields  for  the  most  part  enclosed  with  stone  dikes  or  thorn 

Improvements.— Besides  that  this  parish,  in  common  with  the  coun- 
try at  large,  advances  progressively  in  agricultural  improvement,  seve- 
ral extensive  undertakings  havebeen  executed  which  haveproved  very 
beneficial  One  of  these  was  the  embankment  of  the  Eden  by  the 
late  Mr  Johnstone  of  Lathrisk,  the  father  of  the  present  proprie- 
tor That  river  flowing  through  a  level  country,  very  often  over- 
flowed its  banks,  and  considerably  injured  the  grounds  on  either 
side  by  washing  away  the  soil.  To  prevent  this,  Mr  Johnstone 
caused  a  spacious  canal  to  be  made  for  the  water,  12  feet  wide 
at  the  bottom  and  30  feet  at  the  top,  secured  on  the  sides  by  em- 
bankments and  hedges,  which  include  a  space  70  feet  in  breadth, 
so  that  in  time  of  a  flood  there  is  sufficient  space  for  containing 
the  water,  and  preventing  its  overflowing  and  damaging  the  adja- 
cent  grounds. 


COLLESSIE. 


33 


Extensive  improvements  have  also  been  effected  upon  the  flat 
lands  of  Rankeiloiu-Makgill,  and  Pitlair.  A  quantity  of  ground 
has  here  been  reclaimed  from  marsh,  by  the  spirited  improve- 
ments of  the  late  Charles  Maitland,  Esq.  of  Rankeilour.  In  ac- 
complishing this,  he  deepened  the  water  of  Keilour,  to  give  greater 
descent  to  his  drainage.  So  beneficial  has  been  the  effect  of  his 
operations  in  this  neighbourhood,  that  it  is  difficult  now  to  believe 
the  tradition,  that  in  1745,  when  the  horses  at  Rankeilour  were 
seized  for  the  use  of  the  Pretender's  army,  those  of  Pitlair  remain- 
ed secure,  the  Highlanders  being  unwilling  to  approach  it  by  the 
single  road  which  led  to  it  through  the  surrounding  morass.  In 
connection  with  these  improvements,  Mr  Maitland  worked  marl 
on  Pitlair,  to  the  extent  of  83,010  bolls  fine,  and  28,721  black 
do.,  which  he  used  largely  for  his  own  estate,  and  sold  besides  to 
the  surrounding  landlords,  to  the  value  of  L.  1461,  lis.  0-|d. 

Draining  of  Rossie  Loch,  Sfc. — But  the  most  remarkable  of 
all  the  improvements  effected  in  the  parish  was  the  draining  of 
Rossie  Loch.  The  first  attempt  to  accomplish  this  object  was 
made  in  1740.  Notwithstanding  the  means  then  used,  however, 
the  ground  was  still  left  a  kind  of  morass  in  summer,  and  almost 
covered  with  water  in  winter.  It  continued  in  this  unsatisfac- 
tory state  till  1805-1806,  when  Captain  Cheape,  the  present 
proprietor,  deepened  and  extended  the  drains,  leading  off  the 
water  to  the  Eden, -at  an  expense  of  L.  3000.  The  land  was 
thus  brought  into  a  comparatively  dry  state.  About  250  acres 
of  it  have  been  made  capable  of  producing  good  crops  of  grain, 
although  about  40  acres  in  the  middle  of  the  former  loch  still 
remain  marshy,  producing  only  natural  hay.  In  carrying  for- 
ward his  operations.  Captain  Cheape  found  it  very  advantageous 
occasionally  to  pasture  the  reclaimed  fields  with  sheep.  They 
consolidated  the  land,  and  prepared  it  for  the  plough,  without 
breaking  the  surface,  as  heavier  cattle  must  have  done.  The  ex- 
tensive drainage  which  has  been  effected  by  the  active  and  intel- 
ligent proprietor  of  Rossie  has  at  once  improved  and  beautified 
his  estate,  and  greatly  promoted  the  healthfulness  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

The  system  of  draining  has  not  only  been  successfully  employ- 
ed upon  the  lands  of  Rossie,  but  upon  the  estate  of  Kinloch  and 
other  adjacent  districts.  It  might  be  suggested,  however,  that, 
although  little  remains  to  be  done  in  reclaiming,  much  might  still 

FIFE.  r 


34 


FIFESHIRE. 


be  effected  in  improving  the  more  retentive  soils,  by  means  of  the 
system  of  furrow  or  frequent  drainage. 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  and  value  of  raw  produce 
yearly  raised  in  the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as 
follows : 

Grain,  9000  quarters,  ^' 

Potatoes,  turnips,  &c.  6000  tons,  

Hay,  1550  tons,   jl^ 

Dressed  flax,  4  or  5  tons,             •           •    _                             '  „„j 
Land  in  pasture,  9000  or  10,000  acres  of  various  qualities  and  some  wood 
pasture,  at  L.  3  per  cow  or  full-grown  ox  grazed,  and  7s.  per  ewe  or 
full-grown  sheep  pastured,           .           .           .           •  • 
Gardens,  qqq 
Thinnings  of  plantations,   

L.  24,745 

Agricultural  Society.— k  society,  formed  with  the  view  of  giving 
encouragement  to  the  raising  of  live-stock  and  other  agricultural 
produce,  holds  its  meetings  in  this  parish.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest 
associations  for  this  purpose  in  the  county.  Its  annual  meeting, 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Trafalgar  show,  is  held  on  the  21st  of  Oc- 
tober, the  anniversary  of  the  great  victory  of  Trafalgar.  The  system 
of  sweepstakes  has  lately  been  substituted  for  the  premiums  for- 
merly given  by  the  society;  and  the  competition  excited,  in  improv- 
ing the  breed  of  stock,  and  introducing  improved  seeds,  is  consi- 
derable. The  Chevalier  barley  and  the  Italian  rye-grass  were 
lately  brought  into  general  notice  in  this  district,  by  means  of  this 
society.  It  is  supported  by  the  neighbouring  landed  proprietors, 
and  a  considerable  body  of  the  tenantry. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Means  of  Covimunication.— the  parish  is  situated  upon  the 
road  between  Cupar  and  Auchtermuchty,  our  means  of  communica- 
tion are  easy  and  direct.  There  is  a  runner  between  these  towns 
every  day,  who  leaves  letters  and  parcels  at  Trafalgar  inn,  and  at 
the  lodges  of  the  mansions  upon  the  road.  No  coach  now  passes 
through  the  parish  ;  the  nearest  point  at  which  a  public  conveyance 
can  be  got  is  three  miles  distant  from  CoUessie.  We  are  six  mdes 
from  the  New  Inn,  where  coaches  to  and  from  Edinburgh,  Dundee, 
and  Aberdeen,  pass  three  times  a-day.  The  projected  railway, 
for  connecting  the  Forth  and  Tay,  will  run  through  the  centre  of 
the  parish.  There  are  carriers  almost  every  day  to  various  parts 
of  the  country,  and  one  regularly  twice  a  week  between  Cupar  and 
Auchtermuchty.  .        ,  i 

Ecclesiastical  State.-The  great  majority  ot  the  people  are  mem- 
bers of  the  Established  Church.   There  is  no  dissenting  meeting- 


COLLESSIE. 


35 


house  of  any  description  in  the  parish ;  but  there  are  about  80 
famihes  of  dissenters,  who  go  to  their  several  places  of  worship  in 
adjoining  parishes.  There  are  135  male  heads  of  families  upon 
the  parochial  roll,  who  have  the  right  of  exercising  the  veto,  in 
conformity  with  the  recent  enactment  of  the  General  Assembly, 
among  whom  are  included  all  the  heritors,  and  every  farmer  in  the 
parish.  There  are  330  communicants  in  the  Established  Church, 
and  8  elders. 

The  manse  is  a  very  comfortable  and  commodious  house,  much 
improved  and  enlarged, — almost,  indeed,  renewed  within  the  last 
fourteen  years.  If,  for  the  personal  comfort  of  the  minister  and 
his  family,  it  is,  like  many  of  the  manses  in  Fife,  too  much  in  the 
village,  he  has  the  advantage  at  least  of  being  near  the  scene  of 
his  ministerial  labours.  The  glebe  is  of  not  more  than  the  le- 
gal size,  but  the  land  is  of  good  quality.  The  stipend  is  15  chal- 
ders  of  grain,  half  meal,  and  half  barley,  a  small  sum  for  vicarage 
and  grass  money,  with  the  usual  allowance  for  communion  ele- 
ments. The  last  augmentation  was  granted  in  1822.  There  is 
a  considerable  amount  of  unexhausted  teind. 

The  church  is  an  exceedingly  uncomfortable  and  ill-adapted 
structure.  It  is  one  of  the  few  remaining  long  and  narrow  build- 
ings, that  seem  to  have  been  common  in  the  country  in  Ro- 
man Catholic  times.  It  is  75  feet  long,  by  25  broad.  The  pul- 
pit is  in  the  middle,  and  there  are  galleries  to  the  right  and  left 
of  it.  Some  of  the  old  seats  that  remain  bear  the  date  of  the 
fifteenth  century.  From  its  original  situation,  or  by  the  accumu- 
lation of  graves  in  the  church-yard  in  which  it  stands,  it  is  sunk 
some  feet  below  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  is  in  the  winter  sea- 
son cold  and  damp  in  the  extreme.  It  cannot,  at  the  utmost,  be  seated 
for  more  than  400  hearers ;  and,  besides  being  too  small  for  the  po- 
pulation of  the  parish,  it  is  irremediably  defective  in  form,  and  can 
by  no  repair  be  rendered  commodious  or  comfortable.  There  is 
no  remedy  but  in  a  new  one,  which  it  is  hoped  will  soon  be  erected. 

Poo?-.— The  poor  of  the  parish  are  amply  supported  by  the  volun- 
tary collections  made  at  the  church  doors.  Our  heritors  for  the  most 
part  being  resident,  and  such  of  them  as  are  not  so  occasionally 
commg  to  church,  or  sending  their  contributions, — although  there 
is  no  fund  or  vested  property  for  charitable  purposes, — the  kirk-ses- 
sion  has  been  able,  for  the  last  three  years,  during  the  incumbency 
of  the  present  minister,  to  meet,  from  the  source  alluded  to, 
the  exigencies  of  the  poor.    There  is  a  prevailing  opinion  of  the 


3(5  FIFESIIIRE. 


advantages  to  all  parties  attending  this  mode  of  parochial  admi- 
nistration. The  number  of  stated  pensioners  on  the  poors'  roll  is 
eleven,— 3  men  and  8  women.  The  highest  allowance  is  10s.  a 
month,— the  lowest  to  any  pensioner  in  the  parish,  4s. 

The  average  sum  collected  yearly  for  the  last  three  years  is  L.  58. 
This  includes  sums  collected  upon  sacramental  occasions  twice  a- 
year,  and  which,  for  the  most  part,  are  appropriated  to  the  tem- 
porary rehef  of  such  of  the  poor  as  are  not  regular  pensioners. 
It  includes  also  the  amount  of  annual  collections  made  upon 
the  first  Sabbath  of  every  year,  being  at  an  average  L.  7  for  coals 
to  the  poor.  The  kirk-session  have  thus  been  able  to  distribute 
upwards  of  thirty  cart  loads  of  coals  annually,  the  heritors  and 
farmers,  in  addition  to  their  collections,  giving  the  carriage  free. 

Societies  for  Religious  purposes.— 'Bes^^QS  these  collections  for 
the  temporal  necessities  of  the  poor,  there  is  collected  at  the  church 
door,  for  rehgious  purposes,  from  L.  12  to  L.  15  annually.  The 
money  thus  raised  for  promoting  Christian  objects  constitutes 
the  funds  of  a  parochial  society,  which  are  placed  at  the  disposal 
of  a  committee,  consisting  of  the  kirk-session,  ex  officio,  and  three 
other  members  of  the  congregation,  annually  elected.  And  these 
funds  have  been  principally  appropriated  to  the  support  of  insti- 
tutions connected  with  the  Estabhshed  Church. 

Education.— ThQ  facilities  for  education  in  the  parish  are  con- 
siderable. There  is  the  parochial  school,  where  the  usual  branches 
are  taught.    It  is  attended,  at  an  average,  by  65  scholars.  The 
schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary;  a  comfortable  and  well-si- 
tuated house  and  garden.    His  fees  may  amount  to  L.  23  per  an- 
num :  he  has  also  about  L.  5  a-year  from  other  sources.    There  is 
also  a  female  school,  a  neat  and  well  adapted  building  m  the  cot- 
tage style,  near  Collessie  village,  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  Mel- 
ville family,  and  partly  endowed.    It  is  attended  by  50  girls,  and 
a  few  boYS  under  six  years  of  age    They  are  not  only  well  in- 
structed in  the  elementary  branches  of  general  education,  but  the 
ffirls  are  taught  knitting  and  needlework  in  its  several  branches, 
and,  what  is  scarcely  less  important,  are  trained  to  habits  of  order 
and  exactness.    Our  only  other  school  is  a  small  one  at  Monkston, 
attended  by  about  25  scholars,  the  teacher  of  which  is  wholly 
dependent  on  the  fees  of  his  pupils,  and  the  voluntary  kind- 
ness of  his  employers.     Some  endowment  for  a  school  m  this 
part  of  the  parish  would  be  highly  desirable.    The  number  of 
children,  in  all,  receiving  a  public  education,  is  140,  being  about 


MONIMAIL. 


37 


1  to  85  of  the  whole  population.  A  Sabbath  school,  well  attend- 
ed by  the  children,  and  also  by  many  of  their  parents,  is  taught  at 
Collessie ;  one  at  Rankeilour,  and  another  at  Monkston.  We  have 
a  Parochial  Juvenile  and  Adult  Library,  containing  370  well  se- 
lected volumes. 

March  1836. 


PARISH  OF  MONIMAIL. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JAMES  BRODIE,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  this  parish  is  spelt  in  several  different 
ways;  but  appears  to  have  been  the  same  in  pronunciation  from 
time  immemorial.  The  first  part  of  the  word  seems  to  be  derived 
from  the  Celtic  word  Mon  or  Monath,  a  hill ;  while  the  latter  part 
may  be  either  mile,  a  mile ;  or  meal,  honey ;  or  meille,  a  mill. 

Extent,  Boundaries. — The  parish  forms  an  irregular  oval,  of  which 
the  extreme  length  is  6  miles,  and  the  extreme  breadth  5 ;  and  con- 
tains about  16  square  miles.  It  is  entirely  inland ;  and  is  bounded 
on  the  north  and  east  by  the  parishes  of  Abdie,  Dunbog,  Moonzie, 
and  Cupar;  and  on  the  south  and  west  by  Cults  and  Collessie. 
The  northern  part  of  the  parish  consists  of  a  range  of  whinstone 
hills,  of  which  the  Mount  Hill  is  the  highest.  The  southern  part 
is  more  level,  being  a  portion  of  the  hollow  which  occupies  the 
centre  of  Fifeshire. 

Meteorology,  Sj-c. — The  general  temperature  of  the  atmosphere, 
as  ascertained  by  a  register  kept  at  Melville  House,  in  which  the 
greatest  heat  of  each  day,  and  greatest  cold  of  each  night,  are  re- 
gularly noted,  is  as  under : 

Jan.  Feb.  Mar.  Ap.  May.  June.  July.  Aug.  Sept.  Oct.  Nov.  Dec. 

1833,  37.1  38.5  40.8  45.3  54  8   52.8    59  56.1  53.4  49.3  38.5  38.1 

1834,  31.3  38  38.5  43  55.1    56.4  59.6 

1835,35.2  38.8  40.5  46.1  49.3   5.5.2   57,2  58.3  50.6  43.1  39.1  35.5 

Generally  speaking  the  chmate  is  mild.  The  hills  to  the  north 
and  east  break  the  force  of  the  wind  from  these  quarters,  while  the 
abundance  of  plantations  add  to  the  warmth,  as  well  as  to  the  beauty 
of  the  district.    The  lower  part  of  the  parish  was  formerly  sub- 


38 


FIFESIIIRE. 


ject  to  damps  and  lioar  frosts ;  but,  by  means  of  thorough  drain- 
ing, these  evils  have  been  almost  entirely  removed.  In  conse- 
quence of  its  dry  and  sheltered  situation,  it  is  considered  by  medi- 
cal men  as  peculiarly  healthy.  Agues  are  unknown,  and  fevers 
occur  but  seldom,  and  are  generally  milder  in  their  character  than 
in  other  places. 

Hjidrography.— There  are  several  rivulets  in  the  parish,  all  of 
which  fall  into  the  river  Eden.  There  is  only  one  of  them  of  such 
a  size  as  to  turn  a  mill-wheel  without  the  aid  of  a  dam.  In  some 
places,  owing  to  the  porous  nature  of  the  subsoil,  the  supply  of 
water  is  deficient;  but  in  general  the  springs  are  abundant,  and 
the  water  good,  without  any  trace  of  mineral  impregnation. 

Geology.— The  northern  half  of  the  parish  consists  of  a  mass  of 
whinstone,  full  of  rents,  speedily  yielding  to  the  action  of  the  at- 
mosphere, and,  consequently,  unfit  for  building.    There  are,  how- 
ever, isolated  portions  of  a  harder  and  more  durable  nature.  In 
some  places,  agates  are  found  imbedded  in  the  rock.  Besides  these 
portions,  which  seem  to  have  been  formed  at  the  same  time  as  the 
softer  rock  by  which  they  are  surrounded,  there  are  two  contigu- 
ous veins,  or  seams,  of  a  more  recent  formation,  running  nearly 
east  and  west  for  many  miles.    The  one  to  the  north  is  a  very 
tough,  heavy,  and  coarse-grained  stone,  and  varies  in  thickness 
from  15  to  40  feet.    The  other  is  harder  and  closer  in  the  grain, 
and  is  from  10  to  20  feet  thick.    Between  these  veins  there  some- 
times occur  cavities,  in  which  very  beautiful  crystals  of  carbonate 
of  lime  and  sulphate  of  barytes  have  been  found. 

The  southern  half  of  the  parish  contains  some  sandstone,  be- 
longing to  the  coal  formation,  which  is  spread  over  a  large  portion 
of  the  county. 

The  more  hilly  parts  present  very  evident  proofs  of  the  action 
of  a  strong  current,  flowing  from  the  west  or  south-west.  On  that 
side  of  the  diff'erent  rising  grounds,  the  soil  rests  immediately  on 
the  whinstone,  and  consists  of  decomposed  rock  and  vegetable 
mould.  Wherever  it  is  of  sufficient  thickness,  it  produces  abun- 
dantly all  the  different  species  of  cultivated  plants.  On  the  east 
and  north,  the  whinstone  is  covered  by  a  deposit  of  clayey  till  se- 
veral feet  in  thickness.  The  soil  in  such  places  is  more  tenacious, 
and  generally  less  productive. 

In  the  more  level  district,  the  coal  strata  are  covered  with  a  thick 
bed  of  gravel  and  sand,  apparently  deposited  by  an  extensive  lake, 
which  had  at  some  former  period  extended  over  the  "  Laigh  of 


MONIMAIL. 


39 


Fife."  This  gravel  is  composed  of  fragments  of  many  different 
rocks ;  and  the  soil  above  it  is  light  and  thin. 

Botany. — The  greater  part  of  the  land  having  been  under  culti- 
vation from  time  immemorial,  and  the  rest  affording  good  pasture 
for  cattle  and  sheep,  there  is  no  secluded  corner  to  afford  a  ha- 
bitat for  any  of  the  rarer  indigenous  plants.  The  yellow  aco- 
nite grows  in  great  abundance  in  the  shrubberies  at  Melville,  and 
the  Geranium  lucidum  on  the  old  walls  round  Monimail.  The  va- 
rious kinds  of  grasses  and  vetches  are  especially  abundant.  In  the 
soils  formed  from  the  decomposition  of  the  whinstone,  we  find  Poa 
arvensis,  P.  trivialis,  Festuca  duriusculd,  Cynosurus  cristatus,  Phleum 
pratense,  and  Holcus  avenaceus  most  commonly  occurring ;  on  the 
soils  lying  above  sand  or  gravel,  the  Festuca  ovina,  and  Agrostis 
communis  are  most  frequently  found ;  while  the  Holcus  lanatus 
and  Dactylis  glomerata  are  everywhere  abundant.  All  the  diffe- 
rent kinds  of  trees  commonly  planted  seem  to  thrive  ;  some  of  the 
oaks  in  particular  have  been  noted  for  an  unusually  rapid  growth. 

Zoology. — Owing  to  the  sheltered  situation  of  the  parish,  and 
the  number  of  plantations,  there  is  a  superabundance  of  the  fea- 
thered tribes.  Occasionally,  some  of  the  rarer  species  have  been 
met  with.  Among  others  may  be  mentioned,  the  Bohemian  and 
silken  chatterers,  the  grossbeak,  the  siskin,  the  kingfisher,  and 
the  passenger  pigeon, — the  last  being  the  only  specimen  hitherto 
discovered  in  Britain.  A  few  foxes  and  roe-deer  are  found  in  the 
plantations,  but  none  of  the  rarer  quadrupeds  have  been  observed. 
The  jealousy  of  the  gamekeeper  has  destroyed  almost  all  the  birds 
and  beasts  of  prey  (not  excepting  the  cat) ;  wood-pigeons,  rabbits, 
rats,  and  other  vermin,  are  in  consequence  numerous  and  very  de- 
structive. The  rivulets  siipply  a  few  trouts  and  eels.  The  only 
shell-fish  is  the  fresh  water  muscle. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Eminent  Men. — Of  eminent  menconnected  with  the  parish  wemay 
mention,  Sir  David  Lindsay  of  the  Mount,  whose  family  for  many 
years  retained  that  property.  Several  individuals  belonging  to  the 
noble  family  of  Melville  have  also  received  an  honourable  place  in 
the  history  of  their  country.  Melville  of  Raith,  (ancestor  of  the 
present  Earls  of  Leven  and  Melville,)  was  one  of  the  first  who 
embraced  the  Reformed  religion.  His  sons,  James  and  Andrew 
Melville,  were  distinguished  for  their  diplomatic  talent  in  the  times 
of  James  and  Mary.  George,  the  first  Earl  of  Melville,  had  the 
honour,  as  His  Majesty's  Commissioner  to  the  General  Assembly, 


V 


40 


FIFKSHIIIK. 


of  announcing  that  church  patronage  had  been  abolished.  He 
was  also  one  of  the  most  active  instruments  of  bringing  about  the 
Revolution  of  1688.  In  later  times,  this  parish  was  the  residence 
of  Sir  John  Hope,  Afterwards  Lord  Niddry  and  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
who  acted  so  distinguished  a  part  in  the  peninsular  war. 

Land-oioners. — The  chief  land-owners  are,  the  Earl  of  Leven 
and  Melville;  General  the  Hon.  Sir  Alexander  Hope  of  Ran- 
keilour,  G.  C.  B. ;  Francis  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Fernie,  (nearest  heir- 
male  to  the  attainted  title  of  Burleigh;)  George  Paterson,  Esq.  of 
Cunoquhie ;  and  Thomas  Webster,  Esq.  of  Balgarvie. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parish  registers  commence  in  the 
year  1626.  They  are  in  general  pretty  well  kept;  but  several 
portions  have  been  lost.  Some  of  the  entries  show  that  the  for- 
mer state  of  the  country  was  very  different  from  the  present.  Thus, 
froih  the  treasurer's  accounts,  we  learn,  that,  besides  maintaining 
the  poor,  and  assisting  in  educating  young  men  for  the  ministry, 
the  collections  made  at  church  were  applied  to  the  repairing  of 
roads,  bridges,  and  harbours. 

Antiquities. — Of  antiquities  the  number  is  butsmall.  Anold  tower 
yet  stands,  which  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Cardinal  Bethune  or 
Beaton,  who  resided  here  in  1562.  It  seems  to  have  formed  an  addi- 
tion to  a  building  which  had  previously  been  one  of  the  country  resi- 
dences of  the  Archbishops  of  St  Andrews.  There  are  several  dis- 
tinct heads  of  the  Cardinal  in  his  cap,  in  relievo  upon  the  walls.  The 
arms  of  the  family  of  Bethune  are  also  entire.  The  house  of  Fer- 
nie is  believed  to  have  been  one  of  Macduff's  castles ;  it  is  very  old, 
and  has  evidently  been  a  place  of  strength.  In  taking  down  the 
old  church,  a  stone  coffin  was  found  in  the  wall,  formed  of  a  single 
stone,  with  a  cavity  cut  of  the  shape  of  the  body.  Another  stone 
formed  the  cover.  Some  remnants  of  what  seemed  to  have  been 
gold  lace  were  found  among  the  mouldering  bones  and  dust ;  but 
who  was  the  person  thus  immured,  could  not  be  ascertained.  About 
a  mile  from  the  site  of  the  old  church,  there  is  a  strong  spring  of 
very  pure  water,  which  is  known  by  the  name  of  Cardan's  well ;  so 
called  from  a  celebrated  physician,  who  is  said  with  this  water  to 
have  cured  Hamilton  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews,  of  dropsy.  A 
belief  long  prevailed,  that  this  spring  was  possessed  of  peculiar  me- 
dicinal properties,  and  within  the  last  fifty  years  many  persons  used 
to  frequent  it ;  but  now  its  very  name  and  situation  are  almost  for- 
gotten. Its  reputation  perhaps  arose  from  a  cunning  device  of  the 
physician,  who  praised  its  virtues,  that  he  might  induce  a  lazy  eccle- 


MONIMAIL. 


41 


siastic  to  take  the  exercise  necessary  for  his  health,  in  walking  to 
the  well.* 

Buildings. — The  parish  is  rich  in  gentlemen's  seats ;  Melville, 
Rankeilour,  Cunoquhie,  and  Balgarvie,  are  elegant  modern  man- 
sions. Fernie  Castle,  as  before  observed,  is  more  ancient,  and  re- 
tains marks  of  having  been  a  place  of  strength.  A  beautiful  pil- 
lar, upwards  of  100  feet  in  height,  has  been  erected  on  the  top  of  the 
Mount-hill,  in  memory  of  the  late  Lord  Hopetoun.  The  materials 
generally  used  in  building  are  freestone  for  the  hewn  work,  and  whin- 
stone  for  the  ruble.  They  form  together  a  very  solid  and  durable 
wall.  A  few  of  the  cottages  are  covered  with  thatch ;  but  most  of  them 
are  roofed  with  tiles,  and  the  better  class  of  buildings  with  slates. 

III. — Population. 

Judging  from  the  entries  in  the  session  registers,  the  population 
of  the  parish  does  not  appear  to  have  made  any  great  increase  for 
the  last  two  hundred  years.  Dr  Webster  states  it  at  884,  but  this 
seems  to  be  too  low.  The  increase  has  arisen  from  the  number  of 
additional  hands  employed  in  weaving.  The  amount  of  the  agri- 
cultural population  is  less  than  in  former  times.  The  numbers  at 
each  census  are  as  follows : 

In  1791,  .  1101 
1811,  .  1160 
1821,       .  1227 

1831,       .       1230,  of  whom  399  were  males;  and  631  females. 

Number  of  persons  residing  in  villages,       -  .          .           .  560 

the  country,  ...  670 

children  under  12  years  of  age,  ...  426 

individuals  of  70  and  upwards,        -  -            -          -  50 

The  yearly  average  of  births  is                    -  -                   -  28J 

of  illegitimate  births  is  ...  1 

of  marriages,              -  -              -  .8^ 

of  deaths,              -  ...  19 
Of  these  last  there  are  at  an  average,  of  children  either  still-born  or  under  a  week  old,  2 

Of  persons  of  70  and  upwards,              .  .              .              _  8 

In  the  roll  of  heritors,  there  are  one  Earl  and  one  Knight  G.  C.  B. 
There  are  ten  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and 
upwards,  four  are  non-resident,  and  six  have  their  mansion-houses 
in  the  parish. 

The  number  of  families  is  277,  (including  in  this  number  single 
and  unmarried  persons,  having  houses  of  their  own.) 

•  A  stone  coffin  containing  two  skeletons  was  lately  found  at  Uthrogal,  in  trench- 
ing a  piece  of  ground,  whicli  is  said  by  tradition  to  have  been  a  Roman  Catholic 
burying-place.  Uthrogal  was  formerly  a  leper  hospital,  and  with  the  lands  of  Hos- 
pital mill  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Cults,  was  given  by  Mary  of  Gueldrcs,  the  wi- 
dow of  James  11.  to  the  Trinity  Hospital  at  Edinburgh.  On  the  suppression  of 
religious  houses  it  became  the  property  of  the  town  of  Edinburgh,  and  now  belongs 
to  the  Earl  of  Leven, 


42 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  number  of  fiimilies  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,        .       .        •  147 

in  trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,  108 

There  are  in  the  parish  1  insane  person,  1  fatuous,  2  bhnd,  and 
1  deaf  and  dumb. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  3  illegitimate  births 
in  the  parish. 

Language. — The  language  spoken  is  the  dialect  peculiar  to 
Fifeshire,  which  contains  a  good  many  words  not  to  be  found  in 
Johnson,  though  their  number  is  gradually  diminishing.  The  pro- 
nunciation is  slow  and  rather  drawling.  The  double  oo,  as  in  fool, 
is  sounded  as  the  French  u  in  un.  The  I  after  p  and  b  is  often 
changed  into  a  short  i  or  y,  plough  and  blue  being  pronounced  piu 
and  hiu,  a  corruption  similar  to  the  change  of  the  Latin  planus  into 
the  Italian  piano.  The  a  in  haste,  hate,  &c.  has  a  sound  interme- 
diate between  the  ay  in  may,  and  the  e  in  me,  which  is  in  fact  a  dis- 
tinct vowel,  peculiar  to  the  "  kingdom  of  Fife."  The  short  i,  as  in 
him,  is  pronounced  nearly  as  the  u  in  tub. 

IV. — Industry. 
Provisions  and  Wages. — The  price  of  provisions  and  rate  of 
wages  at  different  periods  may  be  stated  as  under : 

In 

Provisions^  S/^c. 
Beef  and  mutton  per  lb. 
Veal  per  do. 
Hens, 

New  butter, 
Eggs  per  dozen, 
Salmon  per  lb. 
Wheat  per  boll, 
Barley  per  do. 
Oats  per  do. 
Meal  per  do. 

Wages. 
Labourer  per  day. 
Mason,  &c.  per  day. 
Females  per  day. 
Ploughmen  per  year, 
Maid-servants  per  year. 
Livery-servants  per  year, 

The  pound  employed  in  this  table  is  the  Dutch  pound.  The 
price  of  grain  is  taken  from  an  average  of  the  fiars  prices  for  pe- 
riods of  five  years,  ending  in  the  years  mentioned.  The  yearly 
servants  receive  in  addition  to  their  wages,  food  and  lodging,  or 
an  allowance  of  meal,  &c.  in  lieu.  The  payment  of  the  day-la- 
bourers is  stated  at  the  average  rate  of  the  whole  year. 

Agriculture.— T\iQ  number  of  acres  under  cultivation  may  be 
reckoned  in  round  numbers  at  3000.  The  pasture  (including  the 
parks  round  the  different  gentlemen's  seats,)  amounts  to  about  2000 


1750. 

1700. 

1810. 

1834. 

L.  0  0 

2 

L.O 

0 

4 

L.  0 

0 

8 

L.  0 

0 

0  0 

4 

0 

0 

7 

0 

0 

9 

0 

0  6" 

0  0 

4 

0 

1 

0 

0 

1 

6 

0 

1  6 

0  0 

4 

0 

0 

8 

0 

0 

11 

0 

0  9 

0  0 

2 

0 

0 

4 

0 

1 

0 

0 

0  8 

0  0 

0 

0 

51 

0 

0 

8 

0 

0  8 

0  12 

7 

1 

0 

2' 

1 

10 

6 

1 

4  10 

0  8 

2 

0 

13 

0 

1 

4 

7 

1 

0  4 

0  8 

0 

0 

10 

11 

1 

1 

7 

0 

15  3 

0  9 

9 

0 

14 

5 

1 

3 

0 

0 

13  10 

0  0 

5 

0 

0 

101 

0 

1 

10 

0 

1  4 

0  0 

10 

0 

1 

3 

0 

2 

9 

0 

2  3 

0 

0 

10 

0 

0  7 

2  5 

0 

6 

10 

0 

16 

0 

0 

10 

0  0 

I  13 

0 

3 

10 

0 

5 

10 

0 

3 

10  0 

4  0 

0 

11 

0 

0 

26 

0 

0 

26 

0  0 

MONIMAIL. 


43 


more;  and  the  different  plantations  contain  500  acres  in  all. 
There  is  no  undivided  common,  and  little  if  any  ground  unimprov- 
ed, which  would  repay  the  expense  of  cultivation.  The  trees  are 
skilfully  managed.  The  kinds  most  commonly  planted  are,  Scotch 
fir,  larch,  beech,  oak,  ash,  elm,  and  plane. 

Rent  of  Land.— The  rent  of  arable  land  per  acre  varies  from 
L.  1  to  L.  3 ;  the  average  may  be  somewhat  above  L.  2.  The 
charge  for  grazing  depends  on  the  size  of  the  animal  and  quality 
of  the  pasture.  The  grazing  for  an  ox  varies  from  L.  2  to  L.  3,  10s. 
the  average  about  L.  3 ;  for  a  sheep,  from  7s.  to  12s.  the  average 
10s. 

Live-Stock. — The  most  common  breeds  of  cattle  are  the  Fife- 
shire,  Ayrshire,  and  Teeswater ;  with  the  different  crosses  produ- 
ced between  them.  The  Fifeshire  is  most  esteemed  for  breeding, 
and  the  Ayrshire  for  milk.  Few  sheep  are  reared  in  the  parish, 
but  considerable  numbers  of  the  Cheviot  and  black-faced  breeds 
are  bought  in  autumn,  and  fed  on  turnips  through  the  winter. 

Husbandry. — The  system  of  husbandry  pursued  varies  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  of  the  different  soils.  On  the  richer  fields,  a 
rotation  of  four  years  is  followed,  and  the  principal  change  lately 
introduced  is  the  taking  of  a  crop  of  potatoes  instead  of  fallowing 
previous  to  sowing  wheat.  The  potatoes  are  either  employed  in 
feeding  cattle,  or  are  shipped  for  the  London  market.  This  plan, 
however,  seems  likely  to  prove  ultimately  injurious  to  the  soil.  On 
the  poorer  ground  a  different  rotation  is  preferred,  the  fields  be- 
ing left  two  or  three  years  in  grass.  In  managing  them,  the  prin- 
cipal improvement  is  the  applying  of  bone  manure  to  raise  a  crop 
of  turnips,  which  are  afterwards  eaten  by  sheep  upon  the  ground. 
This  has  enabled  the  farmer  to  cultivate  a  good  deal  of  thin  land, 
which  must  otherwise  have  remained  untilled. 

The  farms  are  generally  well  laid  out,  and  thoroughly  drained. 
They  are  let  upon  leases  of  nineteen  years;  and  the  rents  are  in  a 
great  measure  paid  according  to  the  fiars'  prices  of  the  county. 
They  vary  in  size  from  150  to  400  or  500  acres.  The  farm-stead- 
ings are  substantial  and  commodious,  and  the  system  of  husbandry 
good. 

The  principal  improvement  since  the  former  Statistical  Account 
was  published,  is  the  draining  of  a  morass  of  30  or  40  acres ;  but 
owing  to  the  subsiding  of  the  mossy  soil,  and  consequent  loss  of 
level,  the  improvement  has  not  been  so  complete  as  might  have 
been  anticipated. 


44 


FIFESHIRE. 


Amount  of  Raw  Produce. — This,  with  the  expense  of  raising, 
may  be  stated  as  follows  : 

1400  arable  acres  in  corn,  value  of  corn  and  straw  at 

L.  7  per  acre,  -  -  .  -    L.  9800 

Expenses  ploughing,  seed,  cutting,  &c.  at  L.  2,  1  Os. 

per  acre,  ....  -  L.3300  =L.6300 

700  acres  green  crop  at  L.  7  per  acre,  4900 
Expenses  ploughing,  manuring,  sowing,  hoeing,  &c. 

at  L.  5  per  acre,  .  -  -  -  3300    =  1400 

900  arable  acres  in  hay  or  pasture,  at  L.  3  per  acre,  2700 

Expenses  fencing  and  cutting,  at  10s.  per  acre,  450    =  2250 

2000  acres  in  permanent  pasture  at  L.  1,  5s.        -  3500 

Expencesfencing,herding,  draining,  &c.at5s,  per  acre,  500    =  3000 

500  acres  in  wood,  cuttings  and  thinnings,  -  200 

Expenses  felling  and  pruning,  -  -  100    =  100 


L.  21 , 1 00    L.  8050    L.  1 3,050 

Of  tlie  L.  13,050,  stated  above  as  the  actual  profit  derived  from 
the  soil,  about  one-third  forms  the  remuneration  which  the  farmer 
receives  for  his  trouble  and  outlay  of  money  in  stocking,  draining, 
liming,  &c. ;  the  other  two-thirds  go  to  the  landlord  for  rent.  Of 
late,  the  value  of  the  diflferent  articles  enumerated  has  fallen  short 
of  the  amount  above  stated.  The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  b  near- 
ly L.  8000. 

Manufactures. — The  only  manufacture  worthy  of  notice  is  the 
weaving  of  linens.  The  value  of  the  labour  employed  in  it  may  be 
between  L.  2000  and  L.  3000  per  annum.  The  hours  of  labour 
are  very  long,  and  allow  little  time  for  reading  or  relaxation.  Our 
manufactures,  therefore,  can  hardly  be  said  to  afford  a  fair  remu- 
neration to  those  employed,  or  to  be  favourable  to  health  aud  morals. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

The  nearest  market-town  is  Cupar,  which  is  five  miles  and  a-half 
from  the  church  of  Monimail.  There  are  three  villages  in  the  pa- 
rish. Letham  contains  440  inhabitants ;  Monimail,  80 ;  and  Easter 
Fernie,  60.  The  nearest  post-office  is  at  Cupar.  Three  different 
lines  of  turnpike  pass  through  the  parish,  containing  in  all  ten  miles 
of  road,  and  as  much  more  is  kept  in  repair  by  the  statute  labour 
assessment.    There  are  no  canals,  railways,  or  public  conveyances. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  situation  of  the  church  and  manse  is 
far  from  convenient.  They  are  scarcely  a  mile  from  the  one  end 
of  the  parish,  and  are  fully  five  miles  from  the  other.  The  church 
was  built  in  1796.  It  is  rather  a  handsome  building,  with  a  tower 
at  the  east  end,  and  is  in  thorough  repair.  It  affords  accommo- 
dation for  nearly  600  persons.  The  seats  are  allotted  to  the  in- 
habitants according  to  the  properties  on  which  they  reside.  The 
manse  was  built  in  1790,  and  is  still  in  excellent  condition.  The 


MONIMAIL. 


45 


glebe  contains  five  acres,  and  is  worth  L.  12  per  annum.  The  sti- 
pend is  16  chalders,  with  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements. 

The  number  of  families  attending  the  Established  Church  is 
238,  and  the  number  of  individuals  belonging  to  them  is  1057. 
The  families  of  Seceders,  &c.  are  31,  and  the  number  of  persons 
162.  There  are  3  families  containing  11  individuals  of  Episco- 
palian principles.  Divine  service  is  generally  well  attended,— allow- 
ance being  made  for  bad  roads  and  distance.  The  average  num- 
ber of  communicants  is  nearly  500.  There  was  until  lately  a 
Bible  and  Missionary  Society,  collecting  from  L.  10  to  L.  15  per 
annum.  The  plan  of  congregational  collections  is  now  adopted  ; 
and  hitherto  the  amount  raised  has  not  fallen  off.  Cases  requir- 
ing the  administration  of  discipline  occur  but  seldom.  Of  the  more 
flagrant  offences  within  the  last  seven  years  there  has  been  one 
murder,  the  murderer  being  a  stranger ;  and  five  persons  have  been 
convicted  of  adultery,  three  of  whom  were  dissenters. 

Education. — There  are  five  schools  in  the  parish.  The  paro- 
chial teacher  has  the  full  salary  and  the  accommodation  prescribed 
by  law.  With  school  fees  and  some  other  small  emoluments,  his  in  - 
come may  be  about  L.  65  or  L.  70  per  annum.  There  are  two 
other  schools  taught  by  male  teachers,  partly  supported  by  private 
subscription  and  partly  by  fees,  the  emoluments  being  about  L.  18 
per  annum.  Two  female  teachers  are  similarly  maintained,  hav- 
ing about  L.  15  each.  The  branches  taught  are  reading,  writing, 
arithmetic,  mathematics,  grammar,  geography,  Latin,  and  in  the 
female  schools  knitting  and  sewing.  The  school  fees  are  2s.  or  3s. 
per  quarter.  The  people  are  fully  aware  of  the  benefits  of  educa- 
tion. Very  few,  indeed,  are  ignorant  of  reading,  though  a  good  many 
have  not  been  taught  to  write.  No  additional  schools  are  required. 
The  number  of  scholars  during  the  winter  season  averages  150 ;  but 
the  classes  are  not  so  well  attended  in  summer.  Children  of  eleven 
and  twelve  years  of  age  are  sent  to  learn  trades  or  to  herd  cattle, 
and  consequently  the  amount  of  education  that  many  of  them  re- 
ceive is  very  small. 

Libraries. — There  are  two  parish  libraries, — one  contains  a  pretty 
good  selection  of  books  of  general  literature ;  the  other  consists 
exclusively  of  religious  publications. 

Friendly  Societies. — There  is  a  flourishing  friendly  society  in  the 
parish,  which  has  done  a  great  deal  of  good.  Another  was  broken 
up  a  few  years  ago,  having  been  established  on  erroneous  principles. 
The  nearest  Savings  bank  is  at  Cupar. 


4G 


FIFESHIRE. 


Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
receiving  regular  aid  from  the  parish  funds  is  12.  The  usual  sum 
allowed  is  4s.  per  month.  The  collections  made  at  the  church 
doors  (exclusive  of  those  for  religious  purposes)  amount  to  L.  55 
per  annum;  donations,  &c.  average  nearly  L.  10  more;  and  a 
voluntary  assessment  from  the  heritors  of  L.  20,  makes  the  an- 
nual income  of  the  poor  about  L.  85.  Of  this  nearly  L.  20  are 
required  for  the  support  of  pauper  lunatics.  Many  of  the  poor 
show  a  very  commendable  spirit  of  independence ;  others  exhibit  a 
disposition  the  very  reverse.  Generally  speaking,  they  look  on 
public  aid  as  degrading. 

Inns. — There  are  three  inns  in  the  parish. 

Fuel,  4^c. — The  fuel  principally  used  is  coal,  brought  from  the 
parishes  of  Markinch  and  Dysart. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Since  the  former  Statistical  Account  was  written,  improvements  in 
the  system  of  husbandry  have  enabled  the  farmer  to  raise  nearly  three 
times  the  quantity  of  agricultural  produce.  Rents  are  more  than 
doubled ;  the  quantity  of  cloth  manufactured  is  increased  fourfold  ; 
and  the  people  generally  have  more  comfortable  houses,  food,  and 
clothing;  but  their  toil  is  harder,  and  their  leisure  less.  Know- 
ledge is  more  generally  diffused ;  but  contentment  and  happiness 
have  not  been  equally  extended.  External  decorum  is  as  much 
regarded  as  formerly ;  but  family  worship  is  not  so  generally  ob- 
served ;  and  the  religious  instruction  of  children  and  domestics  is 
not  so  carefully  attended  to  as  in  former  times.  Still,  however,  in 
the  words  of  the  former  Statistical  Account,  "  the  general  charac- 
ter of  the  people  has  always  been,  that  they  are  industrious,  regu- 
lar, quiet,  and  respectable.  There  are  mixtures  in  the  purest  so- 
cieties. But  this  character  is  still  merited  by  the  present  race  in 
Monimail." 


March  1836. 


PARISH  OF  ABDIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  LAURENCE  MILLER,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  this  parish,  Abdie  or  Ebtie,  is  supposed 
to  be  the  Gaelic  word  abtaob  signifying  vmterside.  According 
to  Sibbald,  the  ancient  name  of  the  parish  was  Lindores,  which 
is  still  the  name  of  the  principal  village  in  it,  a  place  of  great  an- 
tiquity. At  what  time  the  parish  got  the  name  of  Abdie  is  uncer- 
tain. But  it  has  been  so  called  for  many  centuries;  and  the  church 
of  Abdie  was  always  reckoned  one  of  those  belonging  to  the  abbey 
of  Lindores,  which  is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the  village  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Tay. 

Boundaries  and  Extent. —  The  parish  was  formerly  of  much 
greater  extent  than  at  present ;  for  in  the  year  1633  the  whole  of 
Newburgh  parish  was  disjoined  from  it.  By  this  disjunction,  and 
by  the  intersections  of  the  neighbouring  parishes,  it  has  become 
.  very  irregular  in  its  figure,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  its  ex- 
act dimensions.  Perhaps  if  the  scattered  parts  of  it  were  united 
into  one  whole,  it  might  form  an  area  of  about  6  miles  in  length, 
by  4  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the  W.  and  N.  W.  by  Aber- 
nethy  and  Newburgh ;  on  the  S.  and  S.  W.  by  Auchtermuchty 
and  CoUessie ;  on  the  S.  E.  the  E.  N.  E.  by  Monimail,  Dunbog, 
and  Flisk ;  and  on  the  N.  and  E.  by  the  Tay. 

Geolofjy  and  Mineralogy. — Limestone  occurs  on  the  farm  of 
Parkhill ;  and  several  attempts  have  been  made  to  apply  it  as  ma- 
nure, but  these  have  been  abandoned,  on  account  of  the  distance 
of  coal,  and  the  unfavourable  dip  of  the  stratum.  This  rock  be- 
longs to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation  of  Werner.  There  is 
also  a  quarry  of  red  freestone,  near  the  same  place,  which  has  been 
wrought  at  some  former  period.  Dr  Fleming,  it  is  said,  discover- 
ed some  fossil  remains  of  plants  in  this  district.  There  are  several 
quarries  of  whinstone  in  the  parish,  used  for  building  houses  and 


48 


FIFESIIIRE. 


repairing  roads ;  but  the  trade  of  exporting  it,  mentioned  in  last 
account,  has  been  almost  entirely  given  up  for  some  years. 

Climate,  Soil. — The  air  is  salubrious,  no  diseases  here  having 
been  ever  ascribed  to  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere. 

Owing  to  the  unevenness  of  the  ground,  the  nature  of  the  soil 
is  various.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tay,  there  is  a  very  rich  alluvial  field  of  considerable  extent,  of 
the  same  quality  with  the  Carse  of  Gowrie  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river ;  on  the  ascent  to  the  higher  grounds,  the  soil  becomes 
a  deep  black  earth,  or  in  some  places  light  and  gravelly,  but 
still  very  productive.'  At  an  average,  an  acre  may  yield  from 
seven  to  ten  bolls;  but  the  acclivities  of  the  mountains,  which 
are  partly  covered  with  heath  or  furze,  still  continue  to  be  pas- 
tured by  sheep,  which  are  of  a  mixed  breed,  and  considerable  pains 
have  been  taken  to  improve  them.  They  are  disposed  of  at  vari- 
ous prices  in  the  neighbourhood.  There  are  likewise  considerable 
numbers  of  various  sorts  annually  fed  off,  on  turnip,  many  of  which 
are  sent  to  the  London  market  by  steam-vessels  from  Dundee  and 
Leith.  Some  of  the  hills  are  now  planted  towards  the  top,  which 
will  improve  the  appearance  of  the  country,  but  such  plantations 
are  complained  of  as  affording  shelter  to  rabbits,  which  prey  upon 
the  crops. 

Botany.— la.  the  marshy  ground  near  the  loch,  there  grows  the 
Cicnta  virosa  or  water  hemlock,  or  as  it  is  provincially  called, 
deaffi7i  or  deathin,  peculiarly  noxious  to  con  s.  Here  too  the  MeJ2i/- 
anthes  trifoliata  grows  in  great  abundance,  and  is  used  as  a  medi- 
cine, being  a  powerful  bitter.  The  Nymplma  liitea  major  or  great 
water-lily,  may  also  be  mentioned  as  a  plant  that  grows  in  all  the 
lochs  in  this  parish. 

Zoology.— Dnvmg  the  violent  tornado  of  1825,  there  appear- 
ed among  the  poultry  here  a  very  uncommon  bird.  It  was  of 
the  size  and  colour  of  the  wood-pigeon,  and  exactly  of  the  figure 
of  the  lapwing.  Its  bill,  which  was  an  inch  and  a-half  in  length, 
was  one  quarter  at  the  bottom,  of  the  colour  of  red  sealing  wax, 
the  rest  to  the  point  was  a  bright  yellow.  It  had  also  a  famt  cn-cle 
of  red  around  its  eyes.  It  ran  and  flew  with  amazing  rapidity.  No 
attempt  was  made  to  tame  it,  but  after  being  kept  in  the  house  for 
twenty-four  hours,  it  was  set  at  liberty,  No  satisfactory  account 
has  hitherto  been  got  of  this  bird.  The  description  which  M'Loc 
gives  of  the  greenshank  approaches  nearest  it.  The  osprey  or 
sea-eagle  is  sometimes  seen  on  the  banks  of  the  lake;  and  an 


ABDIE. 


49 


islet  near  the  west  side  of  it,  called  the  Maw  Inch,  was  formerly 
the  haunt  of  sea-mews  or  gulls,  but  they  have  now  deserted  it. 
Large  flocks  of  crows  and  pigeons  are  very  destructive  to  turnips, 
if  left  in  the  fields,  in  spring. 

Hills,  Lakes,  S^c. — Those  natural  objects  of  this  sort  that  chiefly 
deserve  attention  are,  the  Clatchard  Crag,  Norman's  Law,  and  the 
Loch  of  Lindores.  The  first  is  a  majestic  cliff  a  little  to  the  south- 
east of  Newburgh,  about  250  feet  above  the  road  which  passes  near 
its  base. 

Upon  its  summit,  there  are  the  remains  of  a  fortification  similar 
to  some  of  the  outworks  of  the  Roman  camp  at  Ardoch.  Nor- 
man's Law  (the  hill  of  the  northern  men)  is  in  height  850  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  It  commands  a  most  delightful  prospect,  espe- 
cially to  the  north,  where  the  Carse  of  Gowrie  and  the  Frith  of 
Tay  appear  in  full  view  in  all  their  richness  and  variety.  There 
are  three  concentric  circles  of  rough  stone  near  the  top,  supposed 
to  have  been  a  fortification  of  the  Danes  to  cover  their  inroads  into 
the  country,  or  perhaps  erected  by  the  natives  to  repel  these  in- 
vaders.   But  by  far  the  most  interesting  object  here  is  the  Loch 
of  Lindores,  covering  an  area  of  70  acres  of  ground,  and  in  some 
places  20  feet  deep.    This  sheet  of  water  is  not  only  highly  or- 
namental, but  also  very  beneficial  to  the  proprietors.    And  it  so 
happens  that,  by  a  servitude  upon  it  for  supplying  the  mills,  the 
water  belongs  to  one  proprietor,  while  the  fish  and  the  fowl  belong 
to  another.    For  the  two  last  years,  L.  15  or  L.  17  have  been  given 
for  the  privilege  of  fowling  and  fishing  upon  it.    It  is  frequented 
by  ducks,  teals,  snipes,  and  other  water  fowl,  and  it  abounds  in 
pike,  perch,  and  eel.    A  few  reeds  are  sometimes  cut  for  the  roofs 
of  houses.    But  the  chief  advantage  is  derived  from  the  stream  of 
water  which  flows  from  it,  and  which  is  sufficient,  except  in  very 
dry  summer  weather,  to  turn  five  or  six  very  valuable  mills,  whose 
yearly  rent  is  more  than  could  be  obtained  for  the  whole  extent  of 
the  loch  though  it  were  converted  into  arable  land.    A  saw  mill 
has  been  lately  erected,  where  a  great  quantity  of  fir  and  other 
wood  is  cut,  (it  is  said  to  the  value  of  L.  1500  per  annum,)  and 
disposed  of  in  the  neighbourhood,  or  exported  at  Newburgh  to 
Newcastle  and  other  places.    A  bone  mill  has  also  been  set  a-go- 
ing  of  late,  and  the  corn  and  barley  mills  continue  to  be  well  em- 
ployed; but  the  fulling-mills  and  hnt-miUs  mentioned  in  the  former 
Report  have  been  given  up.    The  lake,  when  covered  with  ice,  af- 
lords  amusement  to  curlers.    The  stream,  however,  which  feeds  it, 
called  the  Priest's  Burn,  never  freezes,  and  is  never  dried  up,  eveii 


FIFE. 


50 


FIFESHIUE. 


in  the  hottest  weather.  In  the  summer  1826,  when  all  other  stream- 
lets, and  ahnost  every  neighbouring  spring,  was  dry,  this  burn  was 
still  flowing.    It  rises  from  a  moss  about  half  a  mile  distant. 
II. — Civil  History. 
Ancieni  Land-owners.— Maicdn?i,  Thane  of  Fife,  may  be  reck- 
oned as  one  of  these.     This  Earldom,  after  having  been  pos- 
sessed by  many  of  his  descendants,  came  into  the  hands  of  Mor- 
dac,  Duke  of  Albany.  He  being  beheaded  at  Stirling,  his  property 
in  Fife,  Monteath,  and  elsewhere,  was  annexed  to  the  Crown  by 
King  James  I.,  and  the  succeeding  kings  gave  portions  of  it  to  their 
favourites  at  diff'erent  times.    In  particular,  the  lands  of  Den- 
mill,  which  then  comprehended  the  greatest  part  of  the  parish, 
"  were  given  by  James  II.,  in  the  fourteenth  year  of  his  reign,  to  his 
beloved  and  famihar  servant  James  Balfour,  son  of  Sir  John  Bal- 
four of  Balgarvie."    As  a  proof  of  this  fact,  the  mills  on  this  estate 
are  called  the  King's  Mills  in  the  charter  of  the  present  proprie- 
tor.   This  family  was  always  in  great  favour  at  court.    One  of  them 
followed  James  IV.  to  the  battle  of  Flodden,  and  was  killed  there. 
Sir  James  Balfour  of  DenmiU  and  Kinnairdwas  Lyon  King  at  Arms 
to  Charles  I.  and  II.,  and  an  historian  of  considerable  repute.  The 
funeral  monuments  of  the  family  are  to  be  seen  in  an  aisle  of  the 

old  church.*  ,    ,    j      e  .\ 

John  Lesly  of  ParkhiU  may  be  mentioned  as  the  leader  oi  tbe 
band  that  cut  off  Cardinal  Beaton.  He  first  entered  the  Castle 
of  St  Andrews,  and  gave  the  Cardinal  the  first  mortal  stroke  with 
his  dagger. 

Modern  Land-owners.-  ^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^ 

David  Maitland  M' Gill,  Esq.  •        1200         L.  1000 

Joseph  Murray,  Esq.             •  784  ^60o 

Lord  Dundas,           .  • 

William  Scott  Moncrieff,  Esq.  •         900  1000 

ThoiTias  Watt,  Esq.        .  •  ^ 

Charles  Moyes,  Esq.t       '  '         }^  l^O 

Henry  Buist,  Esq.          .  •          800  lUW 

Admiral  Sir  F.  L.  Maitland,  •        ^0  ^ 

John  Pitcairn,  Esq.           '  *           onn  9^1 

Francis  Balfour,  Esq.           •  _200 

4877         L-  6225 

.  That  of  Sir  James  may  be  given  as  a  specimen     It  ^^j"  '^"^^f.^Vd"" 
«  Sir  James  Balfour  of  Denmill,  K"'g^>t.  Baro.^e^,  Lyo^^^^^^ 

regretted  as  an  examp  e  of  true  honou;  an^^^^^^^^         ^  ^alLned  and  diligent  an- 

^r^acesf  died  13th  February  1657.  aged 

,  •  1  1 1„  o-reat  affe,  being  now  above  ninety,  and  still 


ABDIE. 


51 


Eminent  Men. — Admiral  Maitland,  one  of  the  present  land- 
owners in  this  parish,  is  well  known  as  the  Commander  of  the 
Bellerophon,  which  received  Bonaparte  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
late  war  with  France.  By  his  vigilance  and  circumspection,  he 
prevented  the  escape  of  this  great  troubler  of  Europe  from 
Basque  roads.  He  has  published  a  very  entertaining  narrative 
of  the  transactions  he  had  with  that  celebrated  personage  and  his 
attendants  while  they  were  with  him  in  the  ship.  On  all  other 
occasions,  when  on  active  duty,  he  signalized  himself  by  his  intre- 
pidity and  skill  in  naval  affairs,  and  was  esteemed  one  of  the  best 
officers  in  His  Majesty's  service.  While  at  home,  he  was  attentive 
to  every  scheme  of  public  utility  ;  and  particularly  interested  him- 
self in  the  erection  of  our  new  church. 

Parish  Registers. — Baptisms  and  marriages  have  been  register- 
ed with  some  interruptions  from  the  year  1693.  This  is  now  more 
carefully  done  than  formerly,  though  still  there  are  many  omissions. 

Antiquities. — The  old  church,  which  is  now  in  ruins,  may  be 
traced  to  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century.  There  still  remain 
in  the  porch  the  basin  for  the  holy  water,  and,  till  lately,  the  steps 
that  led  to  the  altar.  All  around,  are  the  monuments  of  former 
times.  We  have  the  Lecturer's  Inch,  the  Teind  Knowe,  and  a 
park  at  Lindores  called  the  Glebe.  I  have  in  my  possession  se- 
veral old  coins  that  were  found  in  the  neighbourhood ;  among  these 
is  a  shilling  of  the  reign  of  one  of  the  Jameses,  having  on  the  obverse 
a  crowned  head,  and  on  the  margin-i^ej;  Scotorum  ;  on  the  reverse, 
a  cross,  with  the  words  villi  Edinbiirgi  ;  also  a  sixpence,  having  on 
the  obverse  a  crowned  head,  with  the  letters  *  Ediu.  on  the  mar- 
gin, and  on  the  reverse  a  cross,  with  the  word  vici  very  legible. 
Urns  containing  bones  and  ashes  are  occasionally  dug  up.  One 
very  lately,  of  rude  workmanship,  was  met  with  at  the  foot  of  Clat- 
chard  Crag,  containing  a  skull  and  some  bones.  It  was  deposited 
between  three  or  four  large  stones  placed  together  in  the  form  of 
a  coffin.  There  was  found  nearer  the  abbey,  several  years  ago,  a  re- 
pository of  the  same  kind  containing  a  great  number  of  very  small 
bones.    In  the  village  of  Lindores,  there  are  the  vestiges  of  an 

lost  his  eye-sight  by  the  small  pox,  but,  notwithstanding,  attained  to  great  proficiency 
in  almost  every  branch  of  liberal  knowledge.  He  traversed  the  country  as  a  lecturer 
on  chemistry  and  all  the  branches  of  natural  philosophy.  But  his  favourite  subjects 
were  optics  and  the  phenomena  of  light  and  colours.  These  he  illustrated  with  pe- 
culiar propriety  and  suscess  in  spite  of  that  bereavement  of  sight  under  which  he  la- 
brother         "massed  a  considerable  fortune,  which  was  bequeathed  chiefly  to  his 

•  Supposed  to  be  Edward  I.  of  England. 


52 


FIFESHIRE. 


old  castle,  said  to  have  belonged  to  Duncan  Macduff,  first  Thane 
or  Earl  of  Fife,— which  is  rendered  extremely  probable,  by  the 
circumstance,  that  the  pedestal  of  his  cross,  the  badge  of  the 
family,  is  still  to  be  seen  about  a  mile  to  the  westward.  Sir 
James  Balfour,  in  his  Annals,  speaks  of  a  battle  that  was  fought, 
between  the  Scots  under  Wallace  and  the  English,  in  June  anno 
1300,  near  the  Castle  of  Lindores,  in  which  3000  of  the  latter 
were  killed  and  500  taken  prisoners.  This  castle  of  Lindores  is 
also  mentioned  in  the  history  of  Wallace,  as  the  place  to  which 
that  hero  and  his  companions  retired  after  the  battle. 

Mansion-Houses.— There  are  four  of  these  lately  built;  but  only 
two  of  the  heritors  reside.    The  most  remarkable  of  these  mansions 
is  the  house  of  Inchrye,  which  cost  L.  12,000.  It  is  hi  the  Gothic 
style  of  architecture,  with  a  verandah  in  front,  and  adorned  with  tur- 
rets and  battlements.  From  various  points  this  most  romantic  build- 
ing is  seen  to  great  advantage,  but  especially  from  the  high  road 
that  leads  from  Trafalgar  inn  to  Newburgh.     There  it  presents 
itself  to  the  view  of  the  delighted  traveller,  with  its  lawns  and  mea- 
dows, and  woods  fringing  the  lake.    Proceeding  westward,  another 
picturesque  object  appears,  the  House  of  Lindores,  the  residence 
of  Admiral  Maitland,  situated  upon  an  eminence ;  and  farther  on, 
the  new  church,  with  its  pillared  belfry  overlooking  the  waters. 
This  is,  on  the  whole,  a  delightful  scene,  and,  were  the  plantations 
a  little  more  advanced,  might  vie  in  beauty  with  places  of  greater 
celebrity. 

III. — Population.  . 

In  1755,  it  was  •  •  ^22 

1801.        .  .  •  ■  870 

By  last  census,  .  •  • 

Males,  426 ;  females,  444 
Male  heads  of  families.  •  • 


Number  offamilies  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  .  •  5d 

XNuuiutji  ^^^^^^  manufactures,  or  handicrafts, 

communicants,  •  •  *  ^qq 

minister's  roll  of  examinable  persons, 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

Imperial  acres  in  the  parish  cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  OUJO 

Cultivated,        ...•>••  \S,'28, 

Constantly  waste,  or  in  pasture,                                       '  i 
That  might  be  profitably  added  to  the  cultivated  land,  • 

Under  wood,           •           •           •           •           mi    •   '        i  t  t 

The  farms  are  about  twenty  in  number.  Their  yearly  rent  trom 
L  1200  to  L.  100,  part  of  which  is  generally  paid  in  grain.  The 
leases  are  for  nineteen  years.  The  farmers  are  active,  industrious, 
and  intelligent,  eager  to  adopt  every  plan  by  which  the  soil  or 


ABDIE. 


53 


the  crops  may  be  meliorated.  In  consequence  of  the  improved 
mode  of  cultivation,  and  the  draining  and  bringing  in  of  waste  land, 
the- quantity  of  grain  raised  is  greater  by  one-third  than  it  was 
at  the  time  of  last  Report.  The  farm-steadings  are  excellent ; 
most  of  them  lately  erected.  On  all  the  larger  farms  there  are 
cot  towns,  where  the  servants  reside.  The  men-servants'  wages 
are  from  L.  10  to  L.  12  a-year,  with  two  pecks  meal  per  week  ;  the 
maid-servants  get  from  L.  5  to  L.  7. 

The  draught  horses  may  be  reckoned  in  number  about  200, 
milch  cows,  110.  Butter  costs  8d  per  lb. ;  cheese,  5d.  There  are 
5  smiths  in  the  parish.  When  paid  by  the  year,  they  get  as  wages 
L.  13  or  L.  14;  when  by  the  day,  2s.  Iron  ploughs  are  now  ge- 
nerally used,  one  of  which  costs  L.  3,  10s. ;  a  brake  of  3  harrows 
costs  L.  3,  6s. ;  and  a  cart,  L.  10.  There  are  3  carpenters  be- 
sides apprentices ;  they  get  2s.  a-day.  There  are  3  shoemakers 
besides  servants  and  apprentices.  A  pair  of  shoes  costs  9s.  There 
are  2  tailors,  paid  Is.  3d.  per  day  with  victuals.  There  are  4  car- 
ters ;  they  earn  5s.  a-day ;  4  inn-keepers  who  have  too  much 
business;  3  shepherds;  108  weavers,  male  and  female,  earn  a 
little  more  than  Is.  per  day.  Reapers  are  generally  paid  at  L.  1,  10s. 
or  L.  2  per  season,  or  12s.  per  acre,  or  3d.  or  4d.  per  thrave. 
Bell's  reaping-machine  is  lised  on  one  of  the  farms.  Every  far- 
mer has  a  thrashing-mill,  and  the  use  of  the  flail  is  discontinued. 
A  stock-market  has  been  established  at  Newburgh,  and  all  sorts 
of  grain  are  disposed  of  there  every  week  for  ready  money.  Grain 
and  potatoes  are  exported  to  a  great  extent. 

Produce. — The  average  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows : 

Grain,            .  L.  14898 

Potatoes,  turnips,  .  3151 

Hay,         .  .  1719 

Pasture,  .  700 

L.  20,468 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Means  of  Communication. — In  nothing  does  the  spirit  of  improve- 
ment appear  more  visible  and  beneficial  than  in  the  construction 
and  repairing  of  roads.  We  are  not  now  obliged  as  heretofore  to 
ascend  "  the  lofty  mountain's  weary  side."  Three  turnpikes  pass 
through  the  parish,  each  the  length  of  six  miles, — besides  another 
upon  the  statute  labour  not  so  good.  A  coach  passes  daily  from 
Perth  to  Kirkaldy  through  the  middle  of  the  parish ;  and  there 
is  ready  access  to  Perth  and  Dundee  by  the  Tay  steam-boats. 


54 


FIFESHIRE, 


Ecclesiastical  State— The  Earl  of  Mansfield  is  patron  ;  and  tliis 
right  is  derived  to  him  from  Mr  Andrew  Murray,  one  of  his  ances- 
tors, who  was  minister  here,  and  also  patron.  He  was  a  person  of 
eminence  in  the  church,  and  gained  the  favour  of  Charles  I.  by  the 
discretion  and  authority  with  which  he  acted  in  the  General  As- 
sembly at  Glasgow,  1638.*  He  came  to  the  peerage  as  Lord  Bal- 
vaird  in  1641,  but  was  prohibited  by  the  Assembly  from  bearing 
improper  titles.  Perhaps,  like  Archbishop  Leighton,  he  did  not 
think  the  pompous  title  of  my  Lord  would  add  anything  to  the  dig- 
nity of  his  character.  He  died  on  the  4th  September  1644,  the 
third  year  after  his  elevation. 

The  church  was  built  in  1827.  It  may  accommodate  500  or 
600.  It  is  a  plain  substantial  building,  planned  by  Burn,  and  cost 
about  L.  1200.  The  manse  was  built  in  1721.  The  offices  are 
new.f 

By  a  locality  dated  1650,  the  stipend,  called  there  the  mortified 
rent  of  the  parish,  was  at  that  time  55  bolls  bear ;  83  bolls  meal 
and  oats;  and  L.  133,  6s.  8d.  Scots.  It  is  now  15  chalders,  half 
meal  and  half  barley,  paid  by  the  fiars  of  the  county,  with  L.  10 
vicarage,  and  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements.  The  old  glebe 
is  four  acres  arable  in  extent.  The  grass  glebe  consists  of  six  acres 
in  arable  meadow  pasture.  There  was  a  long  litigation  about  it,  first 
before  the  Court  of  Session,  and  then  carried  by  appeal  to  the 
House  of  Lords.  It  terminated  in  favour  of  the  minister  in  1815. 
The  people  are  in  general  regular  in  their  habits,  and  well  affect- 
ed to  the  constitution,  both  in  church  and  state.  Only  four  or 
five  families  are  Seceders. 

Education.— The  parish  school  is  attended  by  30  scholars  in 
summer,  and  about  40  or  50  in  winter.  They  are  taught  chiefly 
reading,  2s.  per  quarter;  writing,  2s.  6d. ;  and  arithmetic,  3s. 
The  schoolmaster's  salary  is  the  maximum,  and  his  whole  income 
is  L.  60  a-year.  There  is  also  at  present  a  school  taught  by  a  fe- 
male, attended  by  a  few  girls.  Several  of  the  children  are  very 
near  the  schools  at  Newburgh,  Dunbog,  and  Collessie,  and  attend 
there.    Teachers  complain  that  children  do  not  remain  at  school 

;  ?„::.llS:n?:r;huvchbcll:  -  Joannes  Burgherhuysxne  fecit,  1671^^^^^^^^^ 
ffloria  Mr  Alexander  Balfour,  minister  there,  of  the  parish  of  Ebde.  1  hese  words, 
iTdife  m  to  indicate  that  superstitious  regard  to  bells  which  prevailed  ni  fo^^^^^^ 
Ss  (Christian  Observer,  Protestant.)  And  even  now  it  is  well  known,  tl  at,  m 
Roman  Catbolic  countries,  they  are  solemnly  baptized  and  consecrated  as  .f  intelligent 
aeents  and  if  rung  with  sufficient  force,  are  thought  to  have  great  influence  in  ba- 
nishing evil  spirits,  and  in  relieving  from  the  pains  of  purgatory. 


ABDIE. 


55 


a  sufficient  time.  They  are  obliged,  on  account  of  the  poverty  of 
their  parents,  to  go  to  a  trade,  or  to  work  for  their  livelihood  before 
their  education  be  completed. 

Poor. — There  are  12  at  present  on  the  roll,  but  the  average 
number  may  be  7  or  8.  They  are  supported  by  the  session  fund, 
which  consists  of  the  interest  of  L.  320,  a  small  mortification,  and 
the  collections  at  the  church  door.  There  are  4  lunatics,  2  furi- 
ous, and  confined  in  the  asylums  of  Perth  and  Dundee,  2  others 
tractable,  and  kept  in  the  country.  The  rest  are  old  infirm  people. 
The  whole  are  maintained  for  about  L.  50  a-year,  of  which  the 
heritors  contribute  a  part  by  a  voluntary  assessment.  The  church 
collections  amount  to  about  L.  14  per  annum.  L.  200  of  the  poors' 
money  was  lost  lately  by  the  failure  of  the  person  in  whose  hands 
it  was  placed. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
It  would  contribute  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  the  parish,  could 
the  necessary  articles  of  coal  and  lime  be  procured  at  a  more  rea- 
sonable rate.  They  are  very  dear  at  present.  Whether  coals  are 
bought  at  Newburgh  shore,  or  sent  for  to  the  Balbirnie  or  other 
coal  pits,  they  cost  10s.  a  single  cart  load,  and  lime  is  proportion- 
ally expensive.  Therefore,  a  railway  has  been  talked  of  from  the 
New  Inn  to  Newburgh,  and  I  doubt  not  but  in  some  future  time 
this  improvement  may  take  place.  It  would  also  be  desirable,  could 
the  waters  of  the  lake  be  confined  within  a  narrower  compass  by 
such  operations  as  have  lately  been  carried  through  at  Lochleven. 
By  these  means,  a  more  equable  supply  of  water  might  be  furnish- 
ed to  the  mills,  and  many  acres  of  marshy  and  useless  ground  might 
be  rendered  arable.  This,  too,  is  an  improvement  which  the  lapse 
of  time  may  bring  about.  Much  has  been  done  since  last  Report ; 
many  waste  acres  have  been  reclaimed ;  the  hills  are  now  cultivated 
nearer  to  the  summit ;  the  grounds  are  better  enclosed ;  and  the 
houses  and  cottages  much  improved. 


March  1836. 


PARTSH  OF  NEWBURGH. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  ANDERSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  S^c. — The  parish  of  Newburgh  was  created  in  the  year 
1632,  by  an  act  of  separation  and  disjunction  from  Abdie,  and  ob- 
viously derived  its  name  from  that  of  the  town,  which  contains  nearly 
its  whole  inhabitants,  and  which  has  existed  from  a  very  early  period. 
Borough  towns  and  corporations  are  not  older  in  Scotland  than 
the  eleventh  century ;  and  very  early  in  the  thirteenth,  mention 
is  made  of  the  "  Novus  burgus  juxta  Monasterium  de  Lindoris." 
It  appears  from  a  register  of  the  abbey,  that  the  inhabitants  were 
bound  to  pay  to  the  abbot  there  "  a  ferm  of  a  merit"  annually,  for 
every  brew-house  with  an  acre  of  land  in  the  said  new  burgh. 
Among  other  reasons  for  the  erection  of  the  parish,  it  is  set  forth 
in  the  deed  of  disjunction,  that  "  whereas  the  kirks  of  Ebdie  and 
Newburgh  have  been  separate  these  many  years  by-past,  by  act  of 
Synodial  Assemblie,  &c.  humbly  desire  therefore  the  said  commis- 
sioners to  ratify  the  said  separation."  The  separation  alluded  to 
and  craved  to  be  affirmed  was  effected  in  the  year  1622,  under  the 
sanction  and  authority  of  the  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews.  By  a 
subsequent  application  to  the  commissioners,  a  portion  of  the  pa- 
rish of  Abernethy  was  disjoined  and  annexed  to  that  of  Newburgh. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. —  The  parish,  which  forms  the  eastern 
boundary  of  Strathearn,  extends  about  2  miles  at  its  greatest  length 
from  east  to  west,  and  about  3  miles  in  breadth  from  north  to  south. 
It  is  bounded  by  the  river  Tay  on  the  north;  on  the  east,  south, 
and  west  by  the  parishes  of  Abdie  and  Abernethy ;  its  southern  ex- 
tremity also  touches  Auchtermuchty  and  CoUessie. 

Topographical  Appearances. — Its  figure  is  very  irregular,  being 
nearly  divided  into  two  separate  sections,  by  the  encroachments 
of  Abdie  on  the  east,  and  Abernethy  on  the  west,  giving  to  the 
southern  portion  the  form  of  a  triangle,  while  the  northern  as- 
sumes very  much  the  appearance  of  the  rhomboid.    The  extent 


NEWBURGH. 


57 


of  coast,  washed  by  the  river  Tay,  is  about  two  miles,  the  east- 
ern portion  being  low  and  flat,  and  the  western  towards  Mugdrum, 
rising  gently  into  a  sort  of  table  land,  thence  continuing  its  ascent 
to  the  south,  till  it  attains  an  elevation  of  about  800  feet  at  the 
Black  Cairn,  which  forms  the  summit.  Alternate  elevations  and  de- 
pressions mark  its  progress  southwards,  when  at  Pitcairly  it  begins 
to  assume  a  gentle  slope,  fringed  on  the  east,  for  a  considerable 
distance,  by  a  rivulet  which  issues  from  Loch-mill,  and  falls  into 
the  Eden  at  Auchtermuchty.  An  arm  of  the  parish  projects  to 
wards  the  south-west,  reaching  an  elevation  of  about  600  feet  at 
Craig-sparrow ;  the  ridge  which  terminates  in  that  abrupt  rock  near 
to  Newburgh  on  the  south-east,  which  excites  the  admiration  and 
sometimes  awakens  the  terror  of  strangers  in  passing  along  the  road 
immediately  under  it,  belongs  to  the  parish  of  Abdie.  Here  it 
sweeps  along  in  a  beautiful  level  by  the  ruins  of  Lindores,  bound- 
ed on  the  east  by  a  streamlet  which  issues  from  the  lake  of  the  same 
name,  and  falls  into  the  Tay  at  the  Pow,  which  forms  the  north- 
east point  of  the  parish. 

Climate,  Diseases,  c^c, — The  climate  is  healthy  and  salubrious. 
The  northern  district  of  the  parish  may  be  reckoned  an  exposed 
situation,  where  the  north-east  winds  blow  up  the  Frith  of  Tay  with 
piercing  keenness  during  certain  months  of  the  year;  but,  from  the 
hills  which  skirt  it  on  the  south,  the  towft  is  more  than  ordinarily 
sheltered  from  the  prevailing  gales  in  that  direction.    There  are 
no  marsh  or  fen  lands  in  the  parish,  and  it  does  not  appear  that 
the  rains  are  either  more  frequent  or  copious  than  in  the  surround- 
ing district.    The  fogs  which  prevail  so  much  in  Strathearn  dur- 
ing the  winter  and  spring  months  are  almost  unknown.  Attract- 
ed, accordingly,  by  the  beauty  of  the  situation,  and  its  easy  access 
by  steam  and  coach  conveyance,  families  from  a  distance  are  be- 
ginning to  resort  to  the  town  of  Newburgh  during  summer ;  and 
certainly  a  more  agreeable  retreat  for  change  of  air  and  recreation 
can  scarcely  be  supposed.    The  most  common  diseases  are  fevers, 
consumptions,  and  dysenteries. 

Hydrography. —The  Tay  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  and,  though  running  through  no  part  of  it,  may  well  find  a 
place  in  the  Statistical  Account  of  any  district  that  reaches  to  its 
borders.  This  noble  river,  having  received  the  accession  of  the 
water  of  the  Earn,  begins  to  assume  at  Newburgh  the  appearance 
of  an  arm  of  the  sea.  It  is  there  about  two  miles  broad.  When  the 
tide  is  full,  its  waters  are  always  brackish,  and  after  long  droughts, 


58 


FIFESHIRE. 


contain  a  very  considerable  quantity  of  saline  matter,  although  it 
does  not  appear  that  any  marine  plants  approach  nearer  than  two 
miles  from  this  place.  Mugdrum  Island,  which  belongs  to  the  parish 
of  Abernethy,  divides  the  river  into  two  nearly  equal  portions, — 
where,  collecting  itself  into  two  currents,  it  passes  along  the  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  island,  in  what  are  termed  the  North  and  South 
Deeps,  the  South  Deep  forming  the  principal  channel,  and  furnish- 
ing the  course  which  vessels  of  burden  usually  hold,  in  passing  up 
and  down  the  river.    Ships  of  500  tons  burden  reach  the  shore  at 
Newburgh ;  but  above  the  confluence  of  the  Earn,  several  miles  be- 
yond which  Perth  is  situated,  vessels  of  150  tons,  when  deep  laden, 
proceed  with  difficulty.  A  dredging-machine  has  lately  been  erect- 
ed for  deepening  the  upper  part  of  the  channel,  and  meantime,  to  re- 
medy the  difficulties  of  navigation,  a  steamer  has  been  employed  in 
dragging  up  lighters,  which  convey  the  cargoes  of  the  larger  vessels 
that  land  at  Dundee,  in  which  the  foreign  trade  of  Perth  is  carried  on. 
Operations  are  now  going  on  upon  a  very  extensive  scale  for  con- 
tracting the  North  Deep,  by  projecting  stone  dikes  from  the  op- 
posite banks  into  the  bed  of  the  river,  where  the  intervening  spaces 
rapidly  silt  up,  and  form  in  a  few  years  solid  alluvial  deposits,  fit, 
when  embanked,  for  agricultural  purposes.    Mugdrum  Island  and 
the  adjacent  carses  have  already  received  great  accessions  in  this 
way,  and  the  period  cannot  be  far  distant,  when,  if  these  changes 
proceed  at  their  present  rate,  a  former  state  of  things  will  return 
of  which  tradition  still  speaks,  when  the  inhabitants  dwelling  on  the 
opposite  banks  of  "  the  lordly  Tay"  conversed  together  across  its 
channel.    The  majesty  of  the  stream  will  be  thereby  greatly  di- 
minished, but  its  utility,  both  in  an  agricultural  and  commercial  point 
of  view,  will  be  proportionally  enhanced. 

Many  excellent  springs  are  to  be  found  within  the  limits  of  the 
parish,  from  which  the  town  is  supplied  with  a  constant  and  copious 
flow  of  that  first  necessary  of  life.  One  of  these  springs,  which 
rises  in  the  south-west,  in  the  hilly  district,  is  called  the  Nine  Wells; 
and  though  that  precise  number  of  openings  cannot  now  be  traced, 
there  is  little  doubt,  as  tradition  relates,  that  the  name  was  really 
descriptive  of  the  true  character  of  the  fountain.  The  discharge 
from  the  several  openings  is  copious  and  of  the  purest  quality,  and 
beingimmediately  collected  into  one  current,  forms  no  inconsiderable 
stream,  which  has  lately  been  profitably  employed  in  the  operations 
of  a  bleachfield.  Here,  amidst  the  barbarous  practices  of  a  bygone 
age,  those  who  claimed  the  privileges  of  clan  Macduff  at  the  cross. 


NEWBURGH. 


59 


which  stands  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  were  required  to  wash  off 
the  stains  from  their  murderous  hands,  to  which  reference  is  made 
in  the  well  known  inscription  on  that  ancient  monument, 

"  And  by  their  only  washing  at  this  stone, 
Purged  is  the  blood,  shed  by  that  generation." 

Geology,  Soil. — The  county  of  Fife,  of  which  the  parish  of  New- 
burgh  forms  the  north-west  extremity,  may  be  regarded  in  a  geolo- 
gical view  as  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the  whole  island,  rich 
in  organic  remains,  and  in  all  those  important  facts  which  belong 
to  the  carboniferous  era.  Although  this  parish  partakes  of  few  or 
none  of  its  distinguishing  characteristics,  one  or  two  observations 
may  be  permitted  on  the  materials  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood, 
from  which  the  relative  position  of  its  own  may  be  best  ascertain- 
ed, and  in  which  some  interesting  valuable  facts  recently  brought 
to  light  may  be  stated.  Immediately  on  the  east,  along  the  mar- 
gin of  the  Tay,  the  old  red  sandstone  appears,  on  which  there  rests 
a  bed  of  limestone,  and  corresponding  to  this  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  a  similar  bed  is  to  be  found  in  the  property  of  Mewrie. 
Not  far  from  the  limestone  and  nearer  to  Newburgh,  there  is  a  bed 
of  calmstone  with  vegetable  impressions,  and  the  flowering  portion, 
in  considerable  numbers,  of  what  Dr  Fleming  considers  a  Scirpus. 
It  lies  immediately  under  clinkstone  trap,  and  although  the  junc- 
tion cannot  be  traced  with  regard  to  the  sand  and  limestones,  its 
position  is  unquestionably  that  of  an  upper  member  of  the  series. 
A  similar  bed,  with  identically  the  same  impressions,  occurs  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river  in  the  parish  of  Arbroath.  The  parish 
of  Abernethy,  on  the  west,  likewise  displays  sections  of  the  old 
red  sandstone,  and  at  a  very  elevated  position,  on  the  very  sum- 
mit of  the  Ochils,  a  conglomerate  bed  of  limestone  may  be  ob- 
served. Near  the  church  of  Dron,  a  clayslate  or  calmstone,  simi- 
lar to  that  on  the  east  of  Newburgh,  occurs  in  the  same  relative 
position  to  the  stratified  and  amorphous  rocks,  but  without,  as  far 
as  has  yet  been  observed,  vegetable  impressions.  Intermediate  be- 
tween what  has  now  been  described,  rises  the  parish  of  Newburgh, 
in  one  unbroken  undulating  mass  of  trap,  the  lower  portion,  imme- 
diately above  the  town,  being  a  fine-grained  porphyritic  greenstone; 
that  in  the  higher  ridges  approaches  to  a  compact  feldspar,  and  on 
the  property  of  Pitcairly,  beds  of  trap  tuffa  may  be  traced.  In  the 
small  veins  which  occur  abundantly  in  the  greenstone,  may  be  ob- 
served crystals  of  quartz,  carbonate  of  lime,  barytes  and  olivine ;  the 
feldspar  rocks  contain  nodules  of  claystone  and  jaspery  agates,  the 


GO 


FIFESHIRE. 


latter  very  numerous,  and  approaching  in  character  and  beauty  to 
the  Mocha-stone.  The  parks  or  table  land  of  Mugdrum  is  an  ac- 
cumulation of  the  debris  of  the  old  red  sandstone  and  other  gravelly 
matter,  of  great  depth,  and  furnishes,  in  a  geological  point  of  view, 
some  interesting  problems  as  to  the  causes  of  its  accumulation,  at 
this  particular  spot.  Peat  occurs  immediately  on  the  south,  where 
the  surface  dips  considerably,  forming  the  bed  of  a  loch  which  has 
been  lately  drained,  and  in  the  low  fields  of  Pitcairly,  there  is 
abundance  of  the  same  fossil. 

Along  the  sides  and  summits  of  the  hills,  boulders  of  the  primi- 
tive rocks,  granite,  gneiss,  quartz,  mica-slate  with  garnets,  and  pri- 
mitive greenstone,  occur  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  many  of 
them  of  the  most  unwieldy  dimensions.  Towards  their  base,  and 
skirting  the  southern  boundary  of  the  valley,  there  are  various  ac- 
cumulations of  a  fine  dark-red  sand,  containing  rolled  masses  from 
a  few  inches  to  one  foot  in  diameter,  which  belong  for  the  most 
part  to  the  secondary  rocks.  The  materials,  in  both  cases,  have 
evidently  been  brought  from  the  west,  and  considering  that  the 
heaviest  boulders  occupy  the  most  elevated  position,  are  we  not 
warranted  to  infer  the  existence  of  two  separate  currents,  of  unequal 
magnitude  and  of  different  ages,  as  the  agents  of  transportation  ? 
This  remark  apphes  to  several  of  the  adjacent  parishes,  where  si- 
milar appearances  may  be  observed. 

A  well,  which  was  lately  opened  here,  on  the  sloping  bank  be- 
neath the  town,  exhibits  the  following  interesting  beds,  and  affords 
the  geologist  an  excellent  illustration  of  the  alluvium  formation  in 
this  quarter.    It  is  30  feet  in  depth,  and  intersects  four  distinct 
deposits.    The  first  of  these,  about  5  feet  thick,  is  a  rich  alluvial 
clay,  common  to  all  the  lowlands  in  the  district:  a  bed  of  peat  suc- 
ceeds, composed  of  the  usual  materials  which  are  found  in  that 
substance,  with  the  addition  of  branches  of  the  Alnus  glutinosa  and 
Corylus  avellana,  and  many  minute  seeds  belonging,  apparently, 
from  their  angular  shape,  to  the  Carex  tribe  of  plants.   This  bed  is 
about  2  feet  thick,  and  belongs  to  the  great  deposit  which  extends 
throughout  Strathearn  and  the  lower  basin  of  the  Tay.  Under 
the  peat,  is  a  deposit  of  2^  feet  thick,  of  extremely  fine  sand,  of  a 
light-blue  colour,  and  very  unctuous  in  its  character ;  it  contains 
a  considerable  quantity  of  magnesia,  which  may  be  derived  from 
the  decomposition  of  steatite,  so  abundant  in  the  greenstone  in  the 
neighbourhood.    But  what  is  most  remarkable  here  is  the  fact, 
that  this  matter  is  confined  entirely  to  this  single  bed— not  a  par- 


NEWBURGH. 


61 


tide  of  which  is  to  be  found  in  the  superincumbent  peat,  or  in  the 
underlying  stratmii.  What  peculiar  agency  has  produced  this  ? 
The  lowest  bed  of  the  series  and  the  depth  of  which  is  unknown, 
is  a  plastic  clay  or  till,  containing  boulders  of  the  secondary  rocks, 
mixed  up  with  the  debris  of  the  old  red  sandstone.  The  surface 
of  the  ground  here  is  about  40  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Tay, 
and  the  geologist  will  naturally  inquire,  whether  it  occupied  the 
same  level,  or  what  was  its  condition,  during  the  formation  of  the 
above-mentioned  deposits  ? 

The  soil  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  though  generally  of 
little  depth,  is  of  great  fertility.  It  mostly  consists  of  either  a  loose 
black  loam,  or  of  a  more  compact  ferruginous  mould.  Here  the 
entire  property  of  Pitcairly,  through  an  intelligent  and  enterprising 
tenantry,  has  been  brought  into  the  highest  state  of  cultivation,  and 
marks  itself  out  to  the  traveller  among  the  Ochils  as  an  insulated 
spot  of  singular  beauty  and  fertility.  The  soil  on  the  north-east 
of  the  town,  where  the  ground  is  low  and  flat,  consists  of  the  richest 
clay,  not  inferior  to  the  best  portions  of  the  Carse  of  Gowrie.  * 

Botany. — It  were  easy  to  give  a  full  and  detailed  account  of  this 
branch  of  natural  history,  as  the  writer  has  examined,  he  thinks, 
every  plant  within  the  bounds  of  the  parish,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Lichens  and  some  of  the  Fungi.  The  celebrated  Don  used  fre- 
quently to  traverse  this  neighbourhood,  and  the  results  of  his  re- 
searches are  amply  detailed  in"his  Catalogue  as  well  as  in  Hooker's 
Flora  Scotica,  where,  from  the  frequency  of  reference,  the  student 
will  find  that  Newburgh,  in  proportion  to  its  extent,  contributes 
liberally  to  the  Flora  of  the  island.  Along  with  the  usual  plants 
common  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  following  are  of  rarer  occurrence. 
On  the  banks  of  Tay  and  woods  of  Mugdrum,  along  with  seven  or 
eight  species  of  Ranunculus,  the  Lt/chnis,  Valeriana,  Veronica,  Scir- 
pus,  Carex,  Juncus,  and  Glaux,  there  are  to  be  found  Geum  rivale, 
Alisma  plantago,  Cicuta  virosa,  Iris  pseudacoriis,  Arundo  phrag- 
mites,  Artemisia  maritima,  Senecio  aquaticus ;  also  Gnaphalium 
supinum  and  gallicum,  Erythrcea  pulchella,  Gentiana  campestris, 

"  The  soil  within  the  enclosures  of  the  Abbey  is  a  remarkably  deep  black  loam, 
which,  as  tradition  will  have  it,  was  brought  by  the  monks  from  Ireland,  and  is  there- 
fore untrodden  by  venomous  reptiles !  Classical  authority  can  be  adduced  to  attest 
the  fact,  although  experience  be  against  it.  "  Serpentes  alit  innoxios.  Nullumque 
venenatum  animal  ibi  aluit." — Lesly's  Historia  Scotica.  "  Neminem  enim  a  serpenti- 
bus  lividis  in  ea  unquam  est  visum.  Necq.  in  ulla  circum  regionc  Scotia;  tanta  eorum 
copia  conspectum.  Ipse  vidi  adoloscentem  puerili  ludo  in  campo  salicntem  in  me- 
dium colubrorum  gregem  inoidisse  ac  intactum  illorsum  abysse."— Boethius,  Vita  Wil. 
Kegis,  Lib.  xiii. 


G2 


FIFESHIRE. 


Dispsacus  sylvestris,  Asperula  odorata,  Lythrum  soLicaria^  Reseda 
luteola  and  lutea,  Agrimonia  Eupatoria,  &c. 

Within  the  small  enclosure  of  the  ruins  of  Lindores,  we  meet 
with  a  variety  of  plants,  some  of  which  are  rare,  if  not  extirpated 
entirely  in  the  district;  of  these  may  be  noticed  the  Hyoscyamus 
niyer,  which  was  once  abundant  in  the  neighbourhood.  Like  the 
wild  beasts  of  our  forests,  it  has  been  expelled  from  our  fields ; 
only  one  plant,  of  surpassing  stateliness  and  beauty,  reared  its  head 
this  season,  and  none  have  been  seen  for  many  years.  The  Ga- 
lanthus  nivalis  is  becoming  equally  shy  in  its  chilly  modest  aspect ; 
but  in  abundance  may  be  found  Cynoglossum  officinale,  Mercuria- 
lis  perennis,  Scrophularia  vernalis  and  nodosa.  Erysimum  alliaria, 
Hyacinthus  non-scriptus,  Stellaria  holostea,  Verhascum  lonchitis. 
Allium  ursinum,  Parietaria  officinalis,  Chelidonium  majus,  Ber- 
heris  vulgaris,  Papaver  somniferum,  (only  once  observed ;)  Lac- 
tuca  virosa,  Malva  sylvestris,  &c. ;  of  the  Filices,  the  Scolopendrium, 
Blechnum,  and  Adiantum  are  in  abundance. 

In  the  hilly  district  we  have  the  Pyrola  media,  Parnassia  palus- 
tris,  Pedicularis  palustris,  Linum  catharticum,  Genista  anglica. 
Primula  veris,  Oxalis  acetosella,  Pinguicula  vulgaris,  Nymphcea  al- 
ba, and  Nuphar  lutea.  Among  the  grasses,  Poadecumbens,  Briza  me- 
dia, Eriophorum  capitatum,  and  Anthoxanthum  odoratum :  of  Musci, 
Brijum,  Bartramia,  Grimmia,  Hypnum,  Polytrichum :  of  Fungi, 
along  with  the  Agaricus  8  species,  the  Phallus  fcetidus  is  sometimes 
met  with. 

The  principal  woods  are,  Mugdrum,  covering  a  surface  along 
the  banks  of  the  Tay  of  about  34  imperial  acres,  and  consisting 
chiefly  of  spruce  and  larch  firs  ;  those  of  Pitcairly,  extending  to  about 
12  imperial  acres,  which  contain  a  considerable  portion  of  the  hard 
woods,  ash,  beech,  elm,  and  plane-tree,  interspersed  with  the  usu- 
al varieties  of  coniferce ;  about  41  imperial  acres  of  the  town's  pro- 
perty has  been  lately  planted  with  larch,  spruce,  and  Scotch  firs. 
No  portion  of  the  ancient  wood  of  Earnside  now  exists,  not  even  a 
vestige  of  its  brushwood.  The  Abbey  of  Lindores,  which,  Camb- 
den  says,  "  was  placed  among  the  woods,"  can  still  boast  of  a  few 
fruit  trees,  which,  though  in  ruins  like  itself,  attract  the  notice  of 
the  passenger  by  their  superb  venerable  appearance.  The  identi- 
cal trees  of  which  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  speaks,  ("witness  the  vastly 
big  old  pear  trees  there,")  as  a  proof  of  the  richness  of  the  soil, 
are  still  many  of  them  remaining.  The  orchards  of  much  later  ori- 
gin, in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town,  are  in  a  very  thriving 


MEWBURGH. 


63 


condition,  abound  in  fruit  of  the  finest  quality,  and  covering  an 
extent,  as  they  do,  of  nearly  40  imperial  acres,  are  a  source  of  con- 
siderable profit  to  their  proprietors.  It  is  impossible,  while  touch- 
ing on  the  subject  of  trees,  those  easy  bought  beauties  of  nature, 
not  to  lament  that  the  hilly  ridges  on  the  south  and  east  of  New- 
burgh  should  have  been  suffered  to  remain  so  long  unplanted. 
Letus  hope  that  their  present  proprietor,  into  whose  hands  they  have 
lately  passed,  will  add  to  his  deserved  reputation  as  one  of  the 
most  successful  agriculturists  in  Fife,  by  adorning  with  a  few  clumps 
of  plantation  the  sloping  eminences  of  these  picturesque  hills. 

II. — Civil  History. 
The  town  of  Newburgh,  from  the  charter  already  referred  to, 
seems  to  be  coeval  with  the  erection  of  the  monastery  of  Lindores. 
It  was  early  created  a  burgh  of  regality,  under  the  abbot  of  that 
place  ;  and  as  these  monastic  institutions  were  then  the  sole  depo- 
sitaries of  learning,  and  the  centres  whence  civilization  and  im- 
provements of  every  kind  were  diffused  around,  Newburgh  unques- 
tionably is  indebted  for  its  origin,  as  well  as  most  of  its  privileges, 
to  its  vicinity  to  the  abbey.  The  inhabitants  are  uniformly  ad- 
dressed as  the  "  Nostri  hurgenses"  of  the  ecclesiastical  authorities 
there,  and  the  whole  property  possessed  by  the  burgh  in  the 
Woodriff  and  adjacent  hills  was  derived  from  the  same.  In  the 
year  1600,  James  VI.  erected  the  abbacy  of  Lindores*  into  a  tem- 
poral lordship ;  and  in  the  year  1631,  Charles  I.  granted  a  char- 
ter to  the  town  of  Newburgh,  forming  the  community  into  a  pro- 
per royal  burgh,  with  all  the  immunities  and  privileges  that  are 

•  King  Alexander  HI.  granted  to  the  abbot  and  convent  of  Lindores,  "ut  ipsi  et 
eorum  successores  in  perpetuum  habeant  villain  eorumque  dicitur  novus  burgusjux- 
ta  monasterium  de  Lindores  in  liberum  burgum  ;  et  forum  in  eodem  burgo  quolibet 
die  Martis  cum  libertatibus  burgi  et  fori,  salvis  in  omnibus  burgorum  nostrorum  li- 
bertatibus." 

On  the  4th  July  1457,  Abbot  John  granted  to  the  burgesses  of  Newburgh  the  land 
of  Vodrufe  and  the  hill  to  the  south  of  it,  for  which  they  were  to  pay  to  the  Abbot 
homage  and  common  service,  use  and  wont,  of  forty  bolls  of  barley.  Among  the  sti- 
pulations for  enforcing  the  conditions  of  this  contract,  it  is  provided,  "  Si  contingat 
aliquem  vel  aliquos  predictorum  burgensium  procurare  prece  vel  pretio  aliquera 
nobilem  seu  dominum  in  fomentum  et  auxilium  oppositionis  eorum  in  contra- 
riura  et  prejudicium  libertatis  et  privilegii  nostri  (abbatis  et  conventus)  et  ipse  et  ip- 
si hujusmodi  enormia  committens  aut  committentes  perdet  et  perdent  totum  etquic- 
quid  tenet  et  tenent  de  nobis  et  successoribus  nostris  tam  in  dicto  novo  burgo  quam 
in  dictis  terns  de  Vodrufe  et  de  monte." 

•  1'^  ^l'®  ^^"""^  ^""^  interesting  charters  referred  to  in  this  account,  I  am 

indebted  to  the  kindness  of  Mr  Cosmo  Inncs,  Advocate,  who  is  not  more  intimately 
acquainted  with  this  dark  page  in  the  history  of  our  country,  than  skilful  in  decv- 
pheringthe  dingy  black-letter  MSS.  in  which  these  memorials  are  preserved.  I  have 
also  to  acknowledge  the  exertions  of  my  talented  friend  Mr  De  Maria,  Advocate,  who 
was  tlie  means  of  discovering  for  me  in  the  Advocates'  Library  the  whole  existing 
chartularies  of  the  Abbey  of  Lindores,  extracts  from  which  are  here  given. 


64 


FIFESHIRE. 


usually  conferred  on  such  corporations.  Along  with  Falkland  and 
Auchtermuchty,  it  early  lost,  or  ceased  to  exercise,  its  right  in  the 
election  of  a  representative  to  Parliament ;  and  though  from  its 
rapidly  increasing  population  and  greatly  extended  trade,  so  as  to 
render  it  the  third  town  in  commercial  enterprise  in  Fife,  its  for- 
mer privilege  might  fairly  have  been  restored  under  the  new  char- 
ter, its  voice  has  been  allowed  to  merge  in  the  general  constituen- 
cy of  the  county.  By  the  returns  of  the  last  registration  the  town 
and  parish  number  eighty  voters.  In  all  other  respects,  New- 
Burgh  retains  the  features  of  a  royal  burgh ;  its  revenue,  though 
still  inconsiderable,  has  greatly  increased  of  late  years,  being 
about  L.  170.  It  has  two  magistrates  and  a  weekly  court,  fifteen 
councillors,  and  a  clerk  to  record  its  public  proceedings.  In  the 
progress  of  its  civil  history,  nothing  remarkable  has  been  made  the 
subject  of  record  ;  it  has  given  birth  to  many  respectable  indivi- 
duals, but  the  writer  can  discover  no  name  in  its  annals  that  would 
require  a  separate  notice  under  the  head  of  "  Eminent  Men." 

Land-owners. — The  present  land-owners  are,^  David  Balfour 
Hay,  Esq.  of  Leys,  proprietor  of  Mugdrum  and  the  lands  of  Lin- 
dores,  amounting  to  400  imperial  acres ;  Taylor  Cathcart,  Esq.  pro- 
prietor of  Pitcairly,  429  imperial  acres.  The  extent  of  property  be- 
longing to  the  borough  is  178  imperial  acres;  and  the  remainder 
of  the  parish,  amounting  to  24  imperial  acres,  is  shared  among 
twenty  smaller  proprietors,  called  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the 
country,  portioners.  To  these  latter  belong  the  sections  of  the 
out-field  land  of  the  Woodriff,  which  are  called  half-parts,  but 
most  of  which  have  recently  been  purchased  by  the  proprietor  of 
Mugdrum. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  records  of  the  kirk-session  date  from 
the  year  1652.  In  the  earlier  period  they  have  been  very  correct- 
ly kept,  and  contain  many  interesting  allusions  to  passing  events.  * 

Antiquities. — At  the  north-east  extremity  of  the  parish  near  the 
river  Tay,  on  a  gentle  rise,  in  the  middle  of  a  rich  and  extensive 
flat  of  clay  land,  appear  the  ruins  of  the  Abbey  of  Lindores.  Con- 
cerning the  history  of  this  abbey,  while  it  continued  under  the 
power  of  the  church,  or  after  it  was  erected  into  a  temporal  lord- 
ship, nothing  remarkable  has  been  recorded  by  the  annalists  of  the 
times,  except  that,  from  its  great  wealth  and  extensive  privileges,  it 

*  A  long  account  of  the  trial  of  a  woman  accused  of  witchcraft  is  quoted  in  the  for- 
mer Statistical  notice  of  the  parish.  Some  curious  information,  extracted  from  them, 
is  to  1)6  found  in  a  volume  recently  puhlished  by  the  Abbotsford  Club.  Ihey  arc 
brought  down  with  some  interruptions  to  the  present  time. 


NEWBURGH.  G5 

seems  to  have  been  an  object  of  ambition  to  the  aspiring  ecclesi- 
astics of  the  day.  It  was  founded  by  David  Earl  of  Huntingdon 
in  the  year  1178,  in  memory  of  his  taking  Ptolemais  in  the  Holy 
Land.  It  was  bestowed  upon  the  monks  of  St  Benedict,  of  the 
order  of  the  Tironenses,  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary  and  St 
Andrew  the  apostle,  and  from  grants  bestowed  upon  it,  from  time 
to  time,  it  came  to  be  one  of  the  most  richly  endowed  monasteries 
in  the  kingdom.  The  founder  of  it  died  at  Geconlay,  and  was 
buried  at  Soltray  in  the  year  1219.  Robert  the  Bruce  pretend- 
ed to  the  crown  by  his  mother,  daughter  to  this  Earl,  in  1218.  St 
Bernard  was  the  founder  of  the  order  at  Tiron  of  France,  who,  in 
addition  to  the  rules  instituted  by  St  Benedict,  added  new  regula- 
tions of  his  own,  which  required  that  each  of  the  brethren  should 
practise  within  the  convent  whatever  mechanical  art  he  knew.  Ac- 
cordingly, the  monasteries  of  the  order  contained  within  them  paint- 
ers, carvers,  carpenters,  smiths,  masons,  vine-dressers,  and  hus- 
bandmen, who  were  under  the  direction  of  an  elder,  and  the  pro- 
fits of  their  work  were  applied  to  the  common  use. 

David  I.  was  the  greatest  benefactor  of  the  order,  who  visited 
the  original  monastery,  and  on  his  return  sent  for  thirteen  monks 
in  the  year  1113,  whom  he  afterwards  made  provision  for  in  the 
monastery  of  Kelso,  which  was  erected  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  his  palace  there.  The  monasteries  of  Aberbrothoc,  Lindores, 
and  Kilwinning  were  planted  from  Kelso;  but  the  Abbot  John  grant- 
ed a  charter,  in  which  he  quits  all  claim  to  the  subjection  and 
obedience  of  the  Abbot  of  Aberbrothoc;  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
convents  of  Lindores  and  Kilwinning  obtained  a  similar  exemption, 
as  there  is  no  mention  of  their  being  subject  to  the  parent  monas- 
tery. 

In  the  chartulary  of  Lindores  preserved  in  the  Advocates'  Library 
there  are  two  charters  of  Earl  David,  by  the  one  of  which  he  grants 
"  to  the  church  of  St  Mary  and  St  Andrew  of  Lindoris,  and  the 
monks  there  serving  God,  the  island  which  is  called  Fedinch,  (Mug- 
drum  ?)  and  all  the  fishings  in  Tay,  adjoining  the  said  island,  ex- 
cept one,  VIZ.  a  yair  at  Tolcrik  :"  and  by  the  other,  the  Earl  gives 
to  his  monks  of  Lindores  «  a  right  of  taking  stone  from  his  quarry 
in  Irneside,  both  for  their  church  and  other  buildings."  By  an- 
other  charter,  King  William  the  Lyon  granted  to  the  Abbey  a  full 
tott  in  each  of  the  royal  burghs  of  Berwick,  Strivolen  (Stirhng,) 
^rail,  l^erth,  Forfare,  Munros,  Aberdene.— Alexander  III.  in  two 
charters  granted  « to  the  abbot  and  convent  their  whole  wood  in 


66  FIFESHIRE. 

the  fee  of  Fyntreth,  and  their  whole  wood  with  their  lands  of  Lin- 
doris  in  free  forestry."  Isabella  de  Brous  gave  to  the  abbey  her 
land  of  Cragyn,  near  Dundee,  with  all  her  land  in  the  town  of  Mel- 
neton,  and  in  the  town  of  Abraham  (villa  Abrahe.)  James  II. 
granted  to  the  abbey  "  his  lands  of  ParkhiU,  and  also  the  office  of 
forestry  of  his  wood  of  Ironside,  lying  in  the  lands  of  Parkhdl  m 

Fyfe."  J    .  ,  . 

Of  the  abbots  and  other  dignified  clergy  connected  with  this 

monastery,  not  many  particulars  have  been  recorded.  Fordun 
mentions  Guido  as  the  first,  and  that  he  was  succeeded  by  Tho- 
mas, a  man  of  great  sanctity ;  upon  whose  death,  John,  one  of  the 
priors,  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  abbot.    This  individual  was 
buried  at  Kelso,  and  was  succeeded  by  Nicholas  Cellerarius  de 
Lindores.    One  name  in  the  list  of  more  distinguished  eminence 
occurs,  Lawrence,  who  had  been  a  Doctor  of  Civil  Law  at  St  An- 
drews,  and  was  associated  with  Bishop  Wardlaw  in  laying  the  foun- 
dation of  a  university  there.  «  Magnus  Theologus  et  vitae  venerabi- 
lis  vir,"  we  can  therefore  believe  him  to  have  been;  but  as  if  to  tar- 
nish the  lustre  derived  from  this  literary  achievement,  the  same  au- 
thority has  recorded  of  him,  "  et  heretico  pravitatis  inquisitor,"  and 
instances  the  case  of  Jacob  Resby,  an  English  priest,  and  one  of  the 
followers  of  Wykhff,  whom  he  condemned  to  be  burned  at  Perth, 
upon  a  charge  of  forty  articles  of  heresy.  He  was  the  first  individual 
in  Scotland  who  suffered  for  anti-papistry,  in  the  year  1408,  a  cu- 
rious account  of  whose  trial  is  given  in  the  Scotichromcon.  At 
this  period,  a  new  impulse  was  given  to  learnmg;  the  long  night 
of  comparative  ignorance  and  superstition  was  giving  way  to  the 
rising  dawn  of  knowledge  and  truth  ;  its  light  had  already  expos- 
ed many  of  the  errors  of  papal  theology,  and  was  marshalling  the 
way  to  that  removal  of  its  corruptions  which  was  completed  in  the 
succeeding  century  at  the  Reformation.  Many  of  the  clergy  and 
even  monks  and  friars  in  England,  had  embraced  the  opinions  of 
the  proto-reformers,  Wykliff  and  Huss.    Lawrence  of  Lindores 
seems  to  have  been  a  man  of  great  firmness  and  decision,  and  was 
raised  by  the  Pope  to  the  high  office  of  Inquisitor  m  Scotland; 
and  we  soon  after  find  him  engaged  in  the  condemnation  of  ano- 
ther heretic,  one  Paul  Crawar,  a  Bohemian,  who  came  into  this 
country  as  a  physician.    Pie  embraced  with  great  zeal  and  suc- 
cess the  opportunities  which  his  profession  afforded  him,  of  in- 
culcating his  opinions,  but  was  speedily  interrupted  in  the  midst 


NEWnUIlGH. 


67 


of  his  useful  labours,  and  was  burned  at  St  Andi-ews  in  the  year 
1433.* 

Knox  speaks  of  one  Lesly,  who  was  Abbot  of  Lindores  and 
Bishop  of  Ross,  whom  he  calls  Priest-gate,  but  is  afterwards  fa- 
vourably mentioned  by  him  as  having  "  put  some  reformation  to 
his  place,  anno  1560."  He  was  chosen  a  Lord  of  the  Articles  in 
Parliament  held  in  that  year.  Patrick  of  Lindores  succeeded  him, 
and  was  appointed  one  of  the  undertakers  for  planting  lowland  men 
in  the  isle  of  Lewis,  1602.  The  last  notice  of  any  of  these  digni- 
taries is  contained  in  Calderwood's  History,  where,  among  the  num- 
ber of  those  who  were  assembled  at  Westminster  in  1606,  to  deli- 
berate on  the  comparative  merits  of  Episcopacy  and  Presbytery, 
"  John  Abbot  of  Lindores"  is  simply  mentioned  as  being  present. 
And  thus  terminates  with  him  the  obscure  history  of  a  monastery 
which  once  possessed  the  patronage  of  twenty-two  parish  churches, 
and  claimed  a  right  of  property  in  seven  of  the  chief  royal  burghs 
of  Scotland. 

Corresponding  to  the  wealth  of  the  institution,  the  buildings, 
which  are  now  in  utter  ruins,  appear  to  have  been  on  a  scale  of 
suitable  magnitude,  and,  if  an  opinion  can  be  formed  from  the  spe- 
cimens which  remain,  clothed  as  they  now  are  with  clustering  piles 
of  ivy,  they  display  a  style  of  architecture  which  reflects  credit  on 
the  taste  of  our  forefathers.  The  vestibule  of  the  church,  which 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  building,  is  yet  in  such  a  state  of  pre- 
servation, as  to  indicate  at  once  the  extent  and  character  of  the 
work,  and  which,  along  with  the  massiveness  of  the  walls,  irresistibly 
lead  the  spectator  to  conclude  that  it  must  have  been  both  a  spa- 
'  cious  and  elegant  structure.  In  the  process  of  dilapidation  to 
which  it  was  most  unceremoniously  subjected,  but  which  is  now 
fortunately  interdicted,  a  stone  coffin  was  exhumed,  which  is  said 
to  have  contained  the  body  of  the  Duke  of  Rothsay,  who  was  so 
;  barbarously  murdered  in  the  palace  of  Falkland,  and  privately  in- 
■  terred,  according  to  Winton,  in  this  monastery.  Here  unquestion- 
ably the  last  of  the  noble  house  of  Douglas  found  an  asylum,f  and 

*  Monastic  Annals  of  Teviotdale. 

t  The  history  of  Douglas  says,  that  James  ninth  Earl  of  Douglas  being  taken 
prisoner  at  Burneswark  hill,  by  a  brother  of  the  laird  of  Closeburn,  was  ordered  to 
1  ^qL"*  T'"  ''"^  ^^^''^  °^  Lindores,  where  he  remained  till  the  day  of  his  death  in 
J4a«,  wlicreupon  the  following  verses  were  written  : 

Quod  rides  rasumque  caput,  cellaquc  recessum  ? 
Quodque  cucuUatis  fratribus  anumerer  ? 
Fortiina  volvente  vicos  fiot  modo  Princeps, 
Plebeius ;  monarchus  sa;ne  monacha  fuit. 
riuis  translated. 


68  FIFESHIRE. 


after  a  chequered  life,  spent  amidst  the  toils  and  cruelties  of  civil 
war,  engaged  in  the  cloistered  services  of  a  penitent  eccles-iastic ; 
but  no  inscription  points  out  the  place  of  his  interment,  and  whe- 
ther the  coffin  raaj'  be  his,  or  that  of  the  unfortunate  prince  to 
whom  tradition  has  assigned  it,  is  a  point  which  cannot  now  be  sa- 
tisfactorily determined.    Of  the  famous  causeway,  which  extended 
between  Lindores  and  the  church  of  Ecclesia  Magirdum,  in  the 
parish  of  Dron,  whither  the  monks  annually  went  to  meet  the  nuns 
of  Elcho,  who  there  paid  their  devotions  to  their  patron  saint,  not 
a  vestige  remains.    In  the  hills  on  the  south  of  the  ruin,  the 
Monks'  and  the  Abbots'  Wells  are  still  pointed  out  to  strangers,  but 
the  present  generation  have  even  lost  the  recollection,  as  they  re- 
pose but  little  faith  in  their  virtues,  of  the  many  miraculous  cures 
which,  at  no  very  remote  period,  were  ascribed  to  these  waters. 
Upon  the  whole,  the  ruins  of  the  Abbey  of  Lindores  cannot  be  said 
to  present  anything  remarkable  to  the  prying  eye  of  the  antiquary, 
as  the  imperfect  record  of  its  affairs  contains  little  interesting  to 
the  historian  ;  stately  fruit  trees  ascend  from  the  floors  of  its  once 
sacred  halls,  and,  interspersed  as  these  are  with  ivy,  hazel,  and 
flowers  of  all  hues  and  colour,  viewed  in  conjunction  with  moulder- 
ing fragments  of  the  building,  give  to  the  place  at  large  a  pictu- 
resque, but  melancholy  air  of  grandeur. 

The  parish  likewise  contains  two  crosses  of  remote  antiquity. 
One  of  these  is  situated  a  little  to  the  westward  of  the  town,  among 
the  woods,  and  usually  called  by  the  local  name  of  Mugdrum  Cross. 
The  term  Mugdrum  is  obviously  a  corruption  of  Magridm,  the 
saint  in  whose  honour  it  may  have  been  erected,  and  to  whom  the 
lands  of  Mugdrum  were  dedicated.  It  consists  of  one  large  stone, 
as  the  representation  here  shows,  placed  upright  in  another,  and 
though  the  transept  is  now  completely  broken  off",  and  all  the  up- 
per portion  obliterated,  so  that  the  shaft  only  remains,  there  can 
be  no  doubt,  from  the  appearance  of  the  stone  itself,  as  well  as 
from  its  resemblance  to  the  monuments  of  similar  date  and  charac- 
ter, that  a  cruciform  portion  at  one  time  surmounted  what  now  ex-| 
ists.    Fig.  1  represents  the  east  face,  which  is  divided  into  four 
compartments.     The  upper  two,  which  together  occupy  nearly! 
one-half  of  the  stone,  are  of  equal  size,  and  contain  each  the  reJ 
mains  of  a  man  on  horseback,  but  the  rider  and  posterior  portior 

Why  do  you  laugh  to  see  my  shaven  crown  ? 
My  cell,  my  cloister,  and  my  hooded  gown  ? 
This  is  the  power  of  that  Soveraine  Queen, 
By  whom  monks,  monarchs  ;  monarchs  monks  have  been. 


I 


NEWBURGH. 


69 


of  the  horse  are  effaced  by  the  injury  of  the  weather.    The  third 
compartment  from  the  top  contains  two  figures,  the  smaller  of 
which  appears  to  be  in  the  act  of  being  overtaken  or  run  down  by 
the  larger.    The  lowest  division  seems  to  be  a  representation  of 
a  boar  hunt.    No  human  figures  are  apparent,  although  traces  of 
dogs  in  pursuit  are  clearly  discernible.    The  south  and  west  faces 
of  the  stone  are  so  injured  that  no  carving  can  now  be  seen  on 
them,  though  similar  monuments  are  generally  sculptured  on  all 
sides.   The  northern  side,  represented  by  Fig.  2,  exhibits  remains 
of  two  kinds  of  ornaments  very  common  on  such  remnants  of  anti- 
quity.   The  cross  as  it  now  stands  is  very  little  altered  in  its  di- 
mensions since  1723,  as  appears  from  a  measurement  of  it  which 
was  then  taken  and  preserved  in  the  Advocates'  Library,  viz.  11 
feet  6  inches  high;  2  feet  4  inches  broad;  1  foot  2  inches  thick 
at  the  middle.    It  is  firmly  mortised  into  a  square  block  of  sand- 
stone 5  feet  5  inches  in  length ;  3  feet  6  inches  broad  ;  2  feet  thick, 
and  which  rests  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.    The  weight  of  the 
column  with  its  pedestal  may  probably  be  about  five  tons.  It  con- 
sists of  white  sandstone  similar  to  Macduflf 's  Cross,  the  nearest  lo- 
cality of  which  is  the  Lomonds,  about  8  miles  south,  with  the  hilly 
ridge  of  the  Ochils  intervening. 

It  is  curious  that  this  beautiful  and  very  remarkable  monument 
has  escaped  the  notice  of  Sibbald  and  the  other  Fifeshire  anti- 
quaries. Nothing  is  known  of  its  history.  A  group  of  five  simi- 
lar ones  exists  at  Meigle,  assigned  to  the  age  of  King  Arthur,  a  per- 
son of  more  than  apocryphal  existence,  but  who  is  said  to  have 
lived  about  the  year  800.  Four  others  of  similar  aspect  are  found 
at  Aberlemno,  which,  together  with  one  at  Pitmuis  and  another  at 
Moneekie,  are  said  to  commemorate  the  defeat  of  the  Danes  and 
slaughter  of  Camus,  their  chief,  in  the  eighth  century.  If  this  is 
the  purpose  of  the  cross  under  consideration — to  commemorate  a 
similar  defeat  at  Luncarty,  about  the  close  of  the  tenth  century, — 
certainly  no  site  could  be  more  appropriate  for  it  than  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  family  mansion,  where  it  now  stands,  of  the 
direct  lineal  descendants  of  the  patriotic  Hay  and  his  stalwart  sons, 
who  turned  the  tide  of  battle,  and  obtained  in  reward  the  hawk's 
flight,  being  the  property  of  Leys,  which  is  still  in  their  possession.  * 
An  obelisk  of  precisely  the  same  characters  has  just  been  discover- 

"  Buchanan  informs  us,  that  Kenneth  commanded  Hay  to  enter  Perth  in  triumph, 
with  the  yoke  wherewith  he  fought,  surrounded  by  the  victorious  army,  where  tlie 
kmg  raised  him  from  the  plebeian  rank  to  that  of  tlie  noble,  with  the  gift  of  conside- 
rable territory  to  support  his  dignity.  From  him  spring  the  illustrious  Hays  of  Leys, 
Errol,  Kinnoul,  Tweeddalc,  &c. 


70 


FIFESIIIRE. 


ed  in  the  churchyard  of  St  Madoc's,  on  the  property  whicli  origin- 
ally belonged  to  the  Leys. 

Besides  the  above  singular  monuments,  one  of  a  similar  cha- 
racter, and  said  to  be  connected  with  the  murder  of  King  Malcolm, 
in  the  year  1030,  exists  at  Glammis— another,  said  to  comme- 
morate the  battle  of  Duplin,  is  to  be  seen  in  fine  preservation  at 
Duplin  Castle  in  Perthshire ;  and  fragments  of  exactly  the  same 
class,  but  as  to  which  even  the  whisper  of  tradition  is  silent,  are  to 
be  found  at  Forres,  Elgin,  Aboyne,  Eassie,  Dunnichen,  Menmuir, 
Arthurstone,  near  Cupar  Angus,  and  in  the  cathedral  yard  of  St 
Andrews.    The  real  history  of  the  last  of  these  is  not  to  be  con- 
sidered more  obscure  than  that  of  those  in  regard  to  which  Ho- 
linshed,  Fordun,  and  Buchanan,  have  written  so  much  and  record- 
ed so  little.    Such  is  their  antiquity,  that  the  lapse  of  three  cen- 
turies appears  to  have  little  obliterated  traditions,  than  which  no- 
thino-  more  remained  at  the  time  our  earliest  Scottish  historians 
flourished.  * 

The  other  is  the  celebrated  cross  of  Macduff,  which  stands  at 
the  distance  of  about  one  mile  to  the  south  in  an  opening  of  the 
Ochil  hills,  on  the  confines  of  Strathearn,  where  it  overlooks  that 
beautiful  valley  and  far  distant  Grampians.  It  consists  of  one  large 
block  of  freestone,  rudely  indented  in  several  places.  According 
to  a  description  given  in  1712,  these  consisted  of  nine,  each  con- 
taining an  iron  staple  and  ring,  and  intended,  according  to  tradi- 
tion, for  the  benefit  of  the  kindred  of  the  powerful  Thane  of  that 
name,  amounting  to  precisely  the  same  number,  who  claimed  pro- 
tection even  against  the  penalties  of  murder,  upon  the  payment  of 
«  nine  kie  and  colpindach,  or  young  kow."t    The  upright  pillar 
which  stood  upon  this  base-stone,  was  destroyed  by  the  reformers 
on  their  way  from  Perth  to  the  Abbey  of  Lindores  in  1559.$ 

•  Gordon's  Itinerariiim. 

+  Fordun  says  with  regard  to  this  privilege,  "  Quod  etiam  ipse  et  omnes  m  poste- 
rum,  de  sua  cognatione,  pro  snhitanea  et  improvisa  occisionc,  gauderent  privilegio  le- 
gis  Macduff,  ubi  generosns  occidens  solvendo  viginti  quatuor  marcas  ad  Kuibot,  et  ver- 
naculus  duodecim  marcas,  remissionem  plenariam  exinde  reportaret ;"  which  would 
seem  to  limit  considerably  the  ferocity  of  the  privilege — Lib.  v.  chap.  9. 

+  The  inscription  upon  it,  as  taken  about  that  period  by  the  son  of  S>ir  James  Uai- 
four  of  Denmile,  the  celebrated  annalist,  is  as  follows:— 

Maklraradum  dragos,  mairia,  laghslita,  lai-gos, 

Spelando  spados,  sivc  nig  fig  knighthite  gnaros 

Lothea  leudiscos  laricingen  lairia  liscos 

Et  colovurtos  sic  fit  tibi  bursia  burtus 

Exitus,  et  bladadrum  sive  lim  sive  lam  sive  labrum. 

Propter  Magridin  et  hoc  oblatum. 

Accipe  smeleridem  super  limthide  lamthida  labrum. 
Mr  Cunningham,  in  his  learned  essay  upon  this  singular  inscription,  '-cgards  ti.c 
words  as  Saxon  intermixed  with  Latin,  and  the  whole  "  aped  in  a  Lat.ne  dress,  be- 


NEWBURGI-I. 


71 


The  various  tumuli  around  the  cross  seen  by  a  former  genera- 
tion, and  said  to  contain  the  earthly  remains  of  those  who  failed 
to  establish  the  claims  of  kindred,  have  given  way  to  the  level- 
ling operations  of  the  ploughshare,  and  the  nightly  traveller  is  no 
longer  haunted,  even  in  imagination,  by  the  shrieks  of  the  ghosts 
that  were  heard  at  no  very  remote  period,  by  the  superstitious  of 
the  neighbonrhood.  There  is,  however,  about  200  yards  to  the 
westward,  a  cairn  of  stones  which  is  called  Sir  Robert's  Prap,  and 
which  is  said  to  contain  the  body  of  Sir  Robert  Balfour,  laird  of 
Denmile,  who  was  slain  in  a  duel  there,  by  some  neighbouring 
proprietor,  about  the  beginning  of  last  century. 

Modern  Buildings. — Under  this  head,  may  be  included  a  very 
considerable  portion  of  the  town  of  Newburgh,  which,  within  these 
fifty  years,  may  be  said  to  have  been  entirely  rebuilt.  Its  suburbs 
are  all  of  modern  and  of  very  recent  origin.  A  town-house  with 
a  spire  was  erected  in  1808,  and  there  has  lately  been  attached 
to  it  a  building  of  considerable  dimensions,  for  the  accommodation 
of  those  engaged  in  the  stock-market.  The  parish  church  was 
erected  in  1833;  it  is  a  handsome  and  elegant  structure,  designed 
by  William  Burn,  architect,  and  of  the  Gothic  style.  The  manse, 
built  about  fifty  years  ago,  has  undergone  a  thorough  repair  since 
the  admission  of  the  present  incumbent,  and,  though  not  an  ele- 
gant, is  certainly  a  very  convenient,  house  :  it  stands  on  the  slop- 
ing a  charter  from  Malcolm  Canmore  to  Macduff,  "with  the  benefitsheenjoyed  by  vir- 
tue thereof,  or  the  immunities,  freedoms,  and  pardons  indulged  by,  and  conferred  upon, 
that  girth."  The  cross  is  theoldest  regality  in  this  country,  whence  we  have  thephrase, 
The  Kingdom  of  Fife,  an  epithet  certainly  given  to  no  other  shire,  "  as  if  MackduiF 
had  enjoyed  his  estate  much  after  the  way  of  Hugh  Lupus  in  his  earldom  of  Chester, 
of  whom,  it  is  said,  he  enjoyed  that  earldom  from  his  uncle  the  Conqueror,  'adeo  li- 
bere  ad  gladium,  sicut  ipse  rex  tenebat  totam  Angliam  ad  coronam.'  "  The  last  who 
claimed  the  privilege  of  the  sanctuary  as  being  within  the  degrees  of  kindred,  was, 
according  to  Skeen,  de  Verb.  Signif.  voce  clan-MakdufF,  one  Spence  of  Wormeston, 
upon  his  killing  an  individual  of  the  name  of  Kinninmonth.  Sir  W.  Scott  has 
made  it  the  subject  of  a  poem,  from  which  we  transcribe  these  lines,  as  they  contain 
at  once  an  accurate  description  of  its  locality,  and  of  nearly  all  that  is  otherwise 
known  of  it  : 

 Mark  that  fragment, 

I  mean  that  rough-hewn  block  of  massive  stone, 
Placed  on  the  summit  of  this  mountain. pass, 
Commanding  prospect  wide  o'er  field  and  fell. 
And  peopled  village  and  extended  moorland. 
And  the  wide  ocean  and  majestic  Tay, 
To  the  far  distant  Grampians.    Do  not  deem  it 
A  looscn'd  portion  of  the  neighbouring  rock 
Detached  by  storm  and  thunder — 'twas  the  pedestal 
On  which  in  ancient  times,  a  cross  was  reared, 
Carved  with  words  which  foil'd  philologists  ; 
And  the  events  it  did  commemorate 
Were  dark,  remote,  and  imdistinguishablc, 
As  were  the  mystic  characters  it  bore. 


72 


FIFESIIIRE. 


ing  bank  to  the  south-east  of  the  town,  and  commands  an  exten- 
sive view  of  the  river  Tay,  and  fertile  Carse  of  Gowrie.  The 
House  of  Mugdrum,  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
to  the  north-west  of  the  town,  is  a  large  and  extensive  building, 
and  was  erected  in  1786.    The  shore  of  Newburgh  consisted  till 
of  late  of  three  continuous  piers,  projecting  into  the  south  deep 
of  the  Tay.  Two  additional  ones  towards  the  eastward  have,  with- 
in these  few  years,  been  completed,  with  several  dwelling-houses, 
store-houses,  granaries,  and  other  conveniences  for  commerce. 
The  street,  which  has  been  long  paved  with  stones,  has  just  been 
relaid  with  new  blocks  of  excellent  quality ;  the  elevations  along 
the  southern  range  have  been  either  taken  away,  or  levelled  down 
to  a  more  gentle  slope  ;  so  that  from  the  superior  style  of  archi- 
tecture which  now  prevails  throughout  the  town,  and  the  increas- 
ed dimension  of  the  houses,  Newburgh  may  be  considered  as  hav- 
ing some  pretensions  to  neatness,  as  well  as  cleanness  in  its  gene- 
ral outline  and  character.    These  buildings  are  all  constructed  of 
the  greenstone  trap,  found  in  the  parish  or  immediate  neighbour- 
hood, with  the  exception  of  the  ornamental  parts,  which  are  form- 
ed of  freestone  from  the  quarries  of  Cupar-moor,  Hilton,  Cullelo, 
and  Kingoodie.    A  gas  company  has  just  been  formed,  and  opera- 
tions will  immediately  commence  for  the  manufactory  and  intro- 
duction to  our  streets  and  houses,  of  this  beautiful  element  of  hght. 

HI. — Population. 

The  population  in  1733,  amounted  to  1347 
1801,  .  1664 
1811,  .  2118 
1821,  .  2190 
1831,        .  2642 

The  country  district  has  remained  nearly  stationary  in  its  amount 
of  population,  while  the  suburban  part  has  more  than  doubled  the 
number  of  souls  belonging  to  it.  Thus  distributed,  the  popula- 
tion stands  thus. 

In  the  town,  ....  2438 

suburbs  and  shore,  .  .  281 

landward,  .  •  •  ^29 

The  number  of  individuals  or  families  engaged  in  trade  are,  ma- 
nufacturers, 13 ;  corn-merchants,  4 ;  grocers  and  other  retailers, 
21 ;  bakers,  9;  butchers,  4;  medical  practitioners,  3;  stationer,  1. 

The  number  of  families,  .  •  •  '^30 

Average  number  of  children  in  each,  .  •  3 

Number  of  inhabited  houses,  •  •  • 

Do.  of  blind,  0  ;  of  deaf  and  dumb,  2.  •  . 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  9  illegitimate  births 
in  the  parish. 

3 


NEWBURGI-I. 


73 


Character,  Sfc.  of  the  People. — The  people  are  in  general  active 
and  industrious,  and,  with  the  usual  exceptions  which  occur  almost 
invariably  in  manufacturing  and  sea-port  districts,  merit  the  praise  of 
sobriety.  The  great  bulk  of  them  are  attentive  to  the  ordinances 
of  rehgion  and  the  education  of  their  children.  The  rising  gene- 
ration are  supplied  from  parish  libraries  with  excellent  and  instruc- 
•tive  books.  These  are  read  with  much  interest ;  and  the  time  is 
not  far  distant,  when  Newburgh,  which  has  hitherto  been  noted  for 
commercial  enterprise,  will  also  be  distinguished  for  a  moral,  reli- 
gious, and  a  well-informed  people.  "  No  person  belonging  to  the 
parish  of  Newburgh,"  says  Dr  Stuart,  "  has  suffered  the  punish- 
ment of  death  for  any  crime  within  the  period  to  which  its  records 
extend."  To  this  notice  in  the  former  Statistical  Account,  the 
writer  of  the  present  one  has  only  to  add,  that,  in  1661,  two  wo- 
men belonging  to  the  town  were  hanged  at  Cupar,  accused  of  the 
crime  of  witchcraft,  and  for  causing,  under  the,  influence  of  that 
"  black  art,  the  minister's  house,  Mr  Lawrence  Oliphant,  to  be 
burnt."  As  in  former  times,  "  Newburgh  supplied  the  navy  of 
Great  Britain  with  steady,  well-behaved,  and  gallant  men,"  the 
character  of  its  seamen  still  continues  to  be  held  in  estimation. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture  and  Rural  Economy, — 

There  are  in  cultivation,  .       737  imperial  acres. 

Waste  or  pasture,       ,  ,  280 

Under  wood,          .  ,  88 

Under  fruit  trees,            .  40 

Rent  of  Land. —  The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  amounts  to 
L.  1958,  17s.  6d.  Scotch.  Its  real  rent  is  about  L.  2400  Ster- 
ling. The  average  rent  of  the  clay  lands  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity is  L.  6.  In  the  southern  and  hilly  part  of  the  parish  it  is 
about  L.  3,  10s.  The  greater  part  of  the  town's  property  has  but 
recently  been  brought  into  cultivation, — the  rent  of  which,  for  the 
new  land,  is  about  10s.  per  acre,  but  upon  the  renewal  of  the 
leases  may  be  expected  to  average  quadruple  that  sum. 

Rate  of  Wages. — The  rate  of  labour  for  farm  work  is,  for  plough- 
men, from  L.  10  to  L.  12  per  annum,  with  an  allowance  of  2  pecks 
of  oatmeal  per  week,  and  1  pint  of  sweet  milk  per  day.  Female 
house-servants  have  from  L.  5  to  L.  6  per  annum.  Male  labour- 
ers have  Is.  6d.,  and  female,  8d.  per  day.  Weavers,  according 
to  their  expertness,  can  earn  from  8s.  to  148.  per  week.  Masons, 
Wrights,  and  ship-carpenters  have  2s.  6d.  per  day.  Sailors,  from 
L.  2,  10s.  to  L.  3  per  month. 


74  FIFESHIRE. 

Hushandnj.—Theve  are  only  four  farms  in  the  parish  of  any 
extent,  the  remaining  lands  being  so  subdivided  and  parcelled  out 
among  feuars  and  burghal  heritors,  as  not  to  consist  of  more  than  II 
a  single  plough's  labour.  The  whole  may  be  considered  in  a  very 
high ''state  of  cultivation,  and  farmed  according  to  the  most  im- 
proved system  of  husbandry.  There  is  no  sheep  pasturage,  nor 
any  orass  parks  but  such  as  are  in  proprietors'  own  hands.  The 
duration  of  leases  on  the  estate  of  Pitcairly  is  for  the  period  of 
nineteen  years,  and  on  that  of  Mugdrum  from  seven  to  ten  years. 
Considerable  improvements  have  lately  been  made  in  draining,  by 
adoptincT,  as  has  been  done  with  the  greatest  success  in  the  clay 
lands,  the  wedge  form  of  draining.  The  higher  grounds  have  been 
much  benefited  by  the  cultivation  of  turnips,  manured  with  bone 
dust,  and  eating  off  the  crop  with  sheep,  after  which,  crops  of  bar- 
ley, of  the  most  luxuriant  description  and  of  the  finest  quality,  have 
been  reaped.  The  Chevalier  variety  is  beginning  to  be  mtroduced 
here,  and,  from  the  trial  made,  it  is  found  to  be  much  heavier  in 
quality,  and  more  abundant  in  quantity,  with  a  considerable  in- 
crease also  of  straw. 

Fisheries.— The  fishing  of  salmon  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable 
extent  here,  and  the  fish  are  reckoned  of  superior  quality.  When 
the  tide  has  ebbed,  the  river  leaves  a  great  portion  of  its  bed  dry, 
where  the  fine  silicious  sand,  borne  along  by  its  current,  has  ac- 
cumulated into  large  banks,  which  are  designated  by  different 
names,  and  belong  to  different  proprietors.    Upon  these  the  fisher- 
men, during  the  period  of  low  water,  ply  with  unwearied  diligence 
their  exciting  occupation,-affording  to  about  60  of  the  weavers 
of  Newburgh  a  healthful  as  well  as  lucrative  recreation  from  their 
sedentary  in-door  labours,  during  the  summer  months.  The 
number  of  boats  employed  in  1835  was  32,  managed  by  64 
men.     One  fishing  station,  with  two  boats,  has  realized  2j0 
salmon,  610  grilses,  with  a  proportional  number  of  trouts.  The 
average  price  of  salmon  is  about  Sd.to  8d.,  trout  and  grilses,  from 
3d  to  4d.  per  lb.    Wages,  about  10s.  6d.  per  week,  with  a  bounty 
of  6d.  upon  each  salmon;  2d.,  grilse;  and  Id.,  trout.    After  sup- 
plvino-  the  town  and  neighbourhood  abundantly  with  this  «  richest 
delicacy  of  the  great  deep,"  considerable  quantities  are  exported  to 
London  in  the  Dundeesteam-packets,where,afteravoyageofthirty- 

six  to  forty  hours,  they  are  brought  to  the  market,  httle  injured  in 
quality  or  freshness.  The  spirling,  or  Salmo  eperlanus  of  natxi- 
rali=ts,  also  abounds  here,  which  is  now  the  only  station  m  the 


NEVV15URGH. 


75 


Frith  of  Tay  where  it  is  caught.  Tlie  nets  for  this  purpose 
are  fixed  by  stakes  in  the  rapids,  produced  by  the  heads  or  dikes 
which  project  into  the  river ;  and  continue,  while  the  river  is  clear 
of  ice,  during  the  winter  months.  A  heavy  speat  is  likewise  un- 
favour  able  to  the  fishing.  The  spirling  is  much  relished  by  the 
inhabitants,  and  also  at  Perth,  where  it  finds  a  ready  market,  from 
Is.  to  Is.  6d.  per  hundred.  - 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  that  can  be  ascertained,  may  be  valued  as 
under : 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  .  .  •  •  •  •  L.  3154 

Potatoes,  turnips,  &c.         ...  ...  1295 

Hay,   308 

Land  in  pasture,  .  ■  •  •  •  _  • 

Gardens  and  orchards,  which  includes  value  of  potatoes  raised  in  ditto,  be- 
ing for  domestic  use,       ......  900 

Fisheries,  .  .  .  .  •  •  •  •  1-^0 

L.  5977 

Stock. — Number  of  horses  and  cattle  in  the  parish  of  Newburgh 
for  year  1835: — 1.  Country  district,  50  horses;  45  milk  cows; 
and  78  cattle.  2.  Town  of  Newburgh,  35  horses;  75  milk  cows  ; 
and  13  cattle. 

Manufactures. — Cunningham  in  the  course  of  his  researches  re- 
specting Macduff's  Cross,  says,  "  And  pitie  it  were,  that  so  old 
and  famous  a  monument  in  this  our  kingdom  should  be  so  closlie 
dormant  in  a  poor  country  village."  Surely  the  antiquary  forgot 
the  comphment  he  had  just  paid,  in  giving  to  Newburgh  the  ho- 
nour of  conferring  upon  the  whole  county  the  denomination  of  the 
Kingdom  of  Fife.  "  No  trader,"  it  was  remarked  in  the  last 
Statistical  Account,  "  no  trader  has  as  yet  appeared  in  New- 
burgh, whose  extensive  transactions  in  commerce  would  entitle 
him  to  the  name  and  character  of  a  merchant ;  though  per- 
haps the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  many  will  be  found  here  of 
that  respectable  description."  That  time  has  arrived;  and  New- 
burgh can  now  boast  of  a  considerable  number  of  spirited  indivi- 
duals who  are  engaged  in  extensive  commercial  speculations,  and 
fully  entitled,  as  others  of  their  countrymen,  to  the  honourable  ap- 
pellation of  British  merchants. 

The  principal  branch  of  trade  consists  in  the  weaving  of  linens, 
termed  by  the  workmen  Dowlas  sheeting,  and  for  which  a  ready 
market  is  found  in  London,  Leeds,  and  Manchester ;  also  in  the 
West  Indies  and  South  America,  to  both  of  which  places  it  is  ex- 
ported directly  by  our  merchants  here.    A  few  years  ago,  indivi- 


70 


FIFESHIUE. 


duals  employed  in  the  trade,  for  the  most  part,  wove  their  own  yarn, 
and  disposed  of  their  webs  to  others  of  their  own  number,  who 
again  sold  them  at  Perth,  Dundee,  Cupar,  Auchtermuchty,  and 
Glasgow,  to  persons  who  purchased  them,  either  on  their  own 
account  or  upon  commission  for  the  English  market.  The  trade 
is  now  limited  to  thirteen  individuals,  who  not  only  employ  all 
the  weavers  in  Newburgh,  but  furnish  work  for  considerable  num- 
bers in  Cupar,  Springfield,  Pitlessie,  Kettle,  Markinch,  Falkland, 
Freuchie,  Dunshelt,  Auchtermuchty,  Strathmiglo,  Abernethy, 
Aberargie,  Kintillo,  &c.  The  finest  of  the  material  wrought  here 
does  not  exceed  what  are  termed  fourteen  hundred  linens,  and  from 
1  yard  to  3  yards  wide.  Each  web  of  the  former  sort  contains 
about  140  yards,  and  averages  from  L.  5,  10s.  to  L.  6  in  price. 
The  latter  is  sold  at  3s.  6d.  per  yard. 

The  following  are  the  particulars  of  the  manufacturing  trade 
of  Newburgh  for  1833: — In  the  single  article  of  winding  bob- 
bins, there  are  employed,  boys,  10;  aged  men,  3;  women  above 
fifty,  80 ;  women  below  fifty,  249 ;  total,  342.  The  number  of  looms 
employed  in  town,  364 ;  webs  manufactured,  23,600 ;  spindles  of 
yarn  contained  in  do.  826,000 ;  cost  of  these,  including  weaving 
and  bleaching,  L.  128,325. 

Besides  the  manufacturing  of  linens,  there  is  likewise  a  conside- 
rable trade  in  corn,  carried  on  by  the  merchants  of  Newburgh.  A 
weekly  stock  market  was  established  in  1830,  which,  while  it  brings 
advantage  to  the  town,  must,  from  its  local  conveniences,  operate 
greatly  to  the  benefit  of  the  surrounding  country.  Dealers  from 
Kirkaldy  and  other  places  regularly  frequent  it ;  and,  from  the  ex- 
perience of  its  past  operations,  there  can  be  little  doubt  of  its  per- 
manent prosperity.  Barley  is  the  grain  which  is  principally  sought 
after ;  but  wheat,  oats,  beans,  and  potatoes  also  find  a  ready  sale. 
To  the  spirit  and  intelligence  of  John  Burton,  M.  D.  practitioner 
in  Haddington,  but  then  residing  in  Newburgh,  the  public  owe  a 
debt  of  gratitude  for  the  establishment  of  this  market,  which  has 
proved  so  beneficial  to  Newburgh,  and  the  agricultural  interests  of 
an  extensive  district  in  the  three  counties  of  Fife,  Kinross,  and 
Perthshire. 

Malting  was  at  one  period  carried  to  a  very  considerable  extent 
at  Newburgh,  but  has  for  some  time  past  been  entirely  disconti- 
nued. 

Navigation. — This  is  by  no  means  on  a  scale  of  proportionate 
magnitude  to  the  advantages  of  the  place.    Only  10  vessels,  from 


NEWBURGH. 


77 


60  to  150  tons  burden,  belong  to  individuals  connected  with  New- 
burgh, and  they  are  chiefly  engaged  in  the  coal  trade.  Two 
packets  are  regularly  employed  in  conveying  the  raw  material,  used 
in  the  manufacturing  of  linens,  from  Dundee.  The  wood-yards  are 
supplied  from  America,  Norway,  and  Memel ;  and  the  cargoes 
are  often  brought  here  in  vessels  belonging  to  these  countries. 
Notwithstanding,  there  is  a  considerable  appearance  both  of  real 
trade  and  stir  at  the  shore  of  Newburgh, — as  most  of  the  potatoes 
from  Kinross,  Strathearn,  and  the  surrounding  district,  are  ship- 
ped at  this  port  for  the  London  market ;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  generality  of  vessels,  bound  for  Perth,  must  often  wait  here  the 
flow  of  the  tide,  and  not  a  few  of  them  unload  part  of  their  car- 
goes before  they  can,  even  with  the  tide,  proceed  farther  up  the 
river. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  trade  and  commercial  enterprise  of  New- 
burgh will  bear  a  comparison  with  those  of  places  of  much  larger 
dimensions,  and  of  greater  external  decorations.  Two  branches, 
one  of  the  Commercial  and  the  other  of  the  Central  Bank  of 
Scotland,  lately  established,  attest  its  domestic  prosperity ;  and  a 
revenue  from  customs  of  a  very  considerable  amount,  annually  con- 
veyed to  the  Exchequer,  demonstrates  its  importance  in  a  national 
point  of  view.  Its  local  advantages  are  many,  and,  from  the  ra- 
pidly increasing  wealth  of  its  spirited  merchants,  there  can  be  little 
doubt,  but  that  every  succeeding  year  will  witness  an  extension  of 
its  business. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Means  of  Communication. — 1.  The  post-office  of  Newburgh. 
Afoot-runner  conveys  every  morning  at  eight  o'clock  the  mail-bags 
from  the  Bridge  of  Earn  to  this  place,  and  leaves  again  at  five 
o'clock  p.  M.  to  meet  the  evening  mails  at  the  same  village.  2. 
The  turnpike  road  between  the  county  towns  of  Perth  and  Fife- 
shire  passes  through  the  town  of  Newburgh;  and  about  a  mile  to 
the  eastward,  at  the  village  of  Glenburnie,  a  road  has  been  lately 
opened  through  the  Ochils  to  Auchtermuchty,  and  the  lime  and 
coal  fields  of  Fife.  3.  A  stage-coach,  from  Perth  to  Kirkaldy, 
passes  daily  during  the  summer  months,  and  in  winter  on  the  al- 
ternate days  from  the  one  place  to  the  other.  There  are  also 
throughout  the  whole  season,  except  when  the  river  is  interrupted 
with  ice,  several  steam-boats  which  ply  daily  between  Perth  and 
Dundee,  all  of  which  touch  at  the  shore  of  Newburgh.  A  regu- 
lar passage-boat  sails  between  the  Pow  of  Errol  and  this  during  the 


78 


FIFESHIIIE- 


periods  of  high  water ;  but  at  all  times  of  the  tide  boats  at  New  • 
burgh  can  be  hired  to  the  opposite  banks  of  the  Tay. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — There  are  two  clergymen  in  the  parish  of 
Newburgh, — the  ministers  of  the  Established  Church,  and  of  the 
United  Associate  Synod,  (formerly  the  Burgher  Secession,) — be- 
sides several  others,  who,  without  taking  the  name  of  clergymen, 
teach  and  exhort  under  the  denomination  of  Anabaptists,  Metho- 
dists, and  Independents.  The  attendance  upon  the  three  last 
denominations  is  very  limited,  and  will  not,  upon  any  occasion,  in 
either,  exceed  the  number  of  twenty.  The  United  Associate  Sy- 
nod congregation  may  approach  to  about  a  third  of  the  whole  in- 
habitants of  the  parish.*  The  parish  church  is  a  new  and  elegant 
building,  capable  of  containing  1000  hearers,  and  placed  in  the 
very  centre  of  the  town.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  famihes  on 
the  estate  of  Pitcairly,  the  whole  population  lie  within  the  easiest 
and  most  accessible  distance.  The  sittings,  for  the  most  part,  are 
either  free  or  let  out  at  a  mere  nominal  price. 

The  Earl  of  Mansfield  and  Mr  Hay  of  Mugdrum  are  vice-pa- 
trons of  the  parish.  The  stipend  consists  of  15  chalders,  half 
meal  and  half  barley,  and  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements. 
This  is  according  to  the  decree  of  modification;  but  the  full  amount 
in  the  locality  has  not  been  realized,  in  consequence  of  a  fall  in  the 
rent  of  the  lands  of  Mugdrum  immediately  upon  the  last  augmen- 
tation being  granted.  The  glebe  amounts  to  4  Scotch  acres,  and 
the  grass  glebe  to  10  do.,  both  fields  being  of  excellent  quality. 

Education. — There  are  four  schools  in  the  parish,  including  the 
parochial  school  taught  by  Mr  Wilson,  besides  other  three  which 
are  superintended  by  females.  The  average  number  of  pupils  at- 
tending the  whole  may  be  about  400.  The  usual  branches  of  edu- 
cation are  taught  in  them;  and  in  the  parochial  school,  Greek,  La- 
tin, and  the  higher  branches  of  mathematics  are  taught  in  addi- 
tion. The  salary  of  the  parochial  schoolmaster  is  L.  34,  and 
the  amount  of  fees  averages  about  L.  30.  Besides  the  legal  ac- 
commodations of  a  dwelling-house  and  garden,  the  schoolmaster 
has  a  glebe  of  nearly  four  Scotch  acres  of  land,  a  bequest  left 
many  years  ago,  and  a  sum  of  L.  1,  15s.  arising  from  feu-du- 
ties and  altarage  money.    The  people  are  in  general  alive  to  the 

*  Precise  ecclesiastical  state  of  the  parish,  as  just  reported  by  the  elders  to  the 
Church  Extension  Committee  :  Total  population,  2868  ;  belongmg  to  the  Esta- 
blishment, 1G5G;  communicants  to  do.  669:  belonging  to  dissenters  of  all  denomi- 
nations, 1008;  communicants  to  do.  414;  belonging  to  no  stated  place  of  worslnp, 
204. 


NEWBURGH. 


79 


benefits  of  education ;  but  it  is  impossible  not  to  lament,  that  a 
more  extended  as  well  as  combined  form  is  not  given  to  the  edu- 
cational system  here,  commensurate  to  the  rising  importance  and 
growing  wants  of  the  parish  and  neighbourhood.  A  part  of  the 
town's  funds  would  be  most  beneficially  employed  for  such  a  pur- 
pose, and,  considering  the  numbers  who  are  sent  to  complete  their 
education  at  other  places,  and  the  great  expense  thereby  incurred, 
the  rest,  if  judiciously  gone  about,  might  be  raised  by  private  sub- 
scription. Let  us  trust  that  our  townsmen,  who  have  been  hither- 
to so  much  occupied  in  matters  of  political  strife,  will  henceforth 
unite  and  vie  with  each  other  in  this  truly  laudable  and  philanthro- 
pic object.  A  greater  boon  they  could  not  confer  than  an  extension 
of  our  academical  institutions. 

A  private  seminary  for  females  has  lately  been  opened  under 
the  superintendence  of  an  experienced  and  accomplished  female 
teacher,  where,  besides  reading,  writing,  and  needle  -work,  the  more 
ornamental  branches  of  education  are  likewise  taught.  The  healthi- 
ness and  beauty  of  the  situation  chosen  by  Miss  Sime  for  her  es- 
tablishment cannot  fail  to  attract  the  notice  and  ensure  the  coun- 
tenance and  support  of  the  public. 

There  are  two  Sabbath  schools  taught  in  the  parish,  both  of 
which  are  numerously  attended,  and  attached  to  each  there  is  a 
juvenile  library. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — "  The  poor  are  maintained  by  the 
interest  of  accumulated  sums  of  money,  feu-duties  of  a  superiority 
of  lands  purchased  for  their  behoof,  collections  at  the  church  door, 
and  casualties."  The  interest  of  poors'  money  is  L.  19,  17s.  4d., 
and  the  amount  of  annual  collections  about  L.  78.  There  is,  be- 
sides, a  charitable  female  society,  which  distributes  annually  in 
clothing,  fuel,  &c.  about  L.  15.  There  are  likewise  four  friendly 
societies,  which  are  in  a  flourishing  state,  and  which  distribute  from 
time  to  time  considerable  sums  among  their  aged  and  diseased  mem- 
bers. No  assessment  has  yet  been  imposed,  and  while  the  manu- 
facturing trade  continues  to  furnish  employment  in  the  compara- 
tively easy  process  of  winding  to  all  ages,  and  even  the  infirm,  this 
hazardous  experiment  will  not  require  to  be  made. 

Alehouses. — In  the  town  there  are  25  licensed  houses  for  the 
sale  of  ardent  spirits  and  wines ;  at  the  shore  there  are  4,  and  2 
in  the  country  district.  If  the  police  arrangement,  which  requires 
every  one  of  these  houses  to  be  shut  at  eleven  o'clock  on  the  Satur- 
day evenings,  was  rigidly  and  impartially  enforced,  much  of  the  evil 


80 


FIFESHIRE. 


arising  from  these  fertile  sources  of  corruption  would  be  lessened. 
With  one  or  two  well-trained  public  officers,  the  whole,  in  a  place 
of  this  magnitude,  could  regularly  and  with  facility  be  inspected, 
and  the  refractory  punished  according  to  law. 

Fuel. — English  and  Scotch  coal  are  solely  used  for  this  purpose, 
the  former  obtained  at  the  rate  of  7d.  a  bushel,  and  the  latter  at 
4s.  6d.  per  boll  of  40  stones.  The  English  coal  are  conveyed  by 
sea,  chiefly  from  Newcastle  and  Sunderland ;  the  Scotch  are  brought 
in  coasting  vessels  from  Dysart,  Wemyss,  and  Alloa ;  considerable 
quantities  are  likewise  conveyed  in  carts  from  Lochgelly,  Balgouie, 
and  Balbirnie.  Newburgh  lies  on  the  northern  limit  of  the  great 
independent  coal  formation,  no  portion  of  it  stretching  beyond  the 
Ochil  range  from  the  one  extremity  to  the  other.  Many  fanciful 
conjectures  have,  from  time  to  time,  been  formed  of  the  existence 
of  this  useful  mineral  in  different  localities  in  the  basin  of  the  Tay 
and  the  adjoining  valley  of  the  Earn,  and  expensive  speculations 
have  been  actually  engaged  in.  But  the  principles  of  geology  are 
now  too  well  established  to  admit,  even  of  a  doubt,  in  the  mind  of 
one  acquainted  with  the  science,  of  its  non-existence  in  this  quarter ; 
and  henceforth  our  proprietors  of  their  otherwise  highly  gifted  do- 
mains will  be  more  profitably  employed  in  devising  means  for  faci- 
litating its  conveyance  along  the  surface,  than  fruitlessly  expending 
their  money  in  making  excavations  for  it  beneath. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
The  agricultural  district  of  the  parish  being  of  very  limited  ex- 
tent, and  the  lands  being  all  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation,  little 
alteration  has,  for  many  years,  taken  place,  or  can  be  henceforth  ex- 
pected to  take  place,  either  in  its  population  or  amount  of  produce. 
The  wealth,  energy,  and  resources  of  the  parish  are  concentrated 
in  the  town  of  Newburgh,  and  certainly,  few  places  are  more  ad- 
vantageously situated  for  an  increase  and  extension  of  them  all. 
Lying  midway  between  Perth  and  Dundee,  with  the  fertile  district 
of  the  Carse  of  Gowrie  on  the  north,  a  rich  and  well  cultivated  coun- 
try on  the  east  and  west,  the  easiest  means  of  access  to  the  south, 
a  good  harbour  and  excellent  shipping  station  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity, together  with  an  abundant  supply  of  water  from  the  adjoin- 
ing high  grounds,  Newburgh  seems  to  have  been  expressly  destined 
by  nature  as  a  place  of  trade.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  the  pur- 
poses either  of  an  outlet  or  depot  in  distributing  the  commerce  of 
the  surrounding  country ;  and  should  the  recommendations  of  the 
engineer  be  followed  in  the  formation  of  a  railway,  it  may  be  con- 


FERRY  PORT-ON-CRAIG. 


81 


fidently  anticipated  that,  at  no  distant  period,  new  branches  of  trade 
will  be  opened  up,  while  those  which  have  already  been  so  success- 
fully pursued  will  be  greatly  extended.  While  the  population  of 
Newburgh  has  been  steadily  increasing  during  the  last  fifty  years, 
its  wealth  has  been  more  than  quadrupled  since  the  commence- 
ment of  the  century.  Both  are  still  rapidly  progressing,  and  from 
experience  of  the  past,  as  well  as  speculations  already  forming,  we 
have  reason  to  conclude  that  the  place  will  continue  to  progress  in 
commercial  enterprise  and  importance.  One  great  and  substantial 
evil  felt  here  is  that  which  arises  from  difference  of  opinion  on  pub- 
lic aflFairs.  In  places  of  greater  extent,  the  shock  is  considerably  mi- 
tigated, in  consequence  of  the  different  classes,  of  varying  shades 
and  degrees  of  sentiment,  through  which  it  has  to  pass,  thus  con- 
stituting, as  it  were,  an  intermediate  tribunal  by  which  disagree- 
ments are  insensibly  reconciled  and  asperities  softened  down ;  but 
here,  and  perhaps  in  most  places  of  similar  dimensions,  the  collision 
is  abrupt,  and  families  remain  estranged  from  each  other,  because 
of  matters  in  which  neither  may  be  personally  or  even  in  the  re- 
motest degree  concerned. 

April  1836. 


PARISH  OF  FERRY  PORT-ON-CRAlG. 

FKESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  W.  NICOLSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — The  local  situation  of  the  town  of  Ferry  Port-on- Craig 
naturally  accounts  for  its  name ;  it  is  on  a  rocky  shore  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Tay,  where  there  is  a  regular  passage,  by  means  of  boats, 
to  the  opposite  shore  at  Broughty  Ferry.  Previously  to  the  erec- 
tion of  a  pier,  the  boats  landed  and  took  in  passengers  at  the  point 
of  a  craig  or  rock,  where,  by  the  aid  of  a  timber  platform  laid  be- 
tween the  craig  and  the  boat,  horses  and  cattle  were  also  shipped, 
— so  that  this  was  literally  a  ferry  whose  port  was  on  a  craig.* 

•  Neither  liorses  nor  cattle,  however,  cross  the  river  by  this  passage,  since  the  erec- 
tion of  the  steam-boat  between  Newport  and  Dundee,  although  it  is  expected  that  a 
similar  mode  of  conveyance  will  ere  long  be  adopted  here. 
FIFE.  T- 


82 


PII''ESHIRE. 


TopoyrapMcal  Appearances,  Boundaries,  Sfc.—  The  craggy  aspect 
of  the  shore  where  the  town  is  situated  has  now  almost  disappeared, 
the  rocks  which  stood  between  the  houses  and  the  water  having  been 
removed,  and  better  accommodation  afforded  for  boats  and  vessels ; 
dwelling-houses  also  have  been  erected  close  upon  the  beach.  The 
parish  s^tretches  along  the  south  margin  of  the  river,  from  its  mouth, 
where  it  empties  itself  into  the  German  Qcean,  to  about  five  miles 
up.    Its  breadth  is  variable,  extending  in  some  places  to  about  a 
mile  and  a-half  from  the  river,  and  in  others  to  about  half  a  mile. 
It  is  narrowest  near  the  middle,  where  the  village  is  situated,  and 
widens  towards  the  east  and  west.    It  is  bounded  on  the  south  by 
the  parishes  of  Forgan  or  St  Fillans,  and  Leuchars.    The  eastern 
part  of  the  parish  is  flat  and  low,  but  on  the  west  it  is  high  and 
rocky.    From  the  village  eastward  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the 
shore  is  flat  and  in  general  sandy,  and  at  low-water  there  is  a  large 
extent  of  sands  left  bare  by  the  tide.    On  the  west  of  the  village 
the  shore  is  rocky  and  irregular. 

The  atmosphere  is  here  generally  cool  and  salubrious,  although 
the  sea  breeze  to  which  this  part  of  the  country  is  exposed  gives  a 
sharpness  to  the  air  which  is  not  felt  in  more  inland  districts.  The 
proofs  of  a  wholesome  climate  which  this  parish  presents  are  early 
crops,  and  a  healthy  population. 

Except  the  Tay,  which,  as  has  just  been  stated,  constitutes  the 
northern  boundary,  no  river  bounds  or  intersects  the  parish.  There 
is,  however,  abundance  of  excellent  water  in  the  higher  parts  of  the 
parish,  issuing  in  springs  from  strata  of  hard  whinstone.  Hence 
water  is  generally  obtained  without  difficulty,  and  most  of  the  in- 
habitants are  supplied  with  this  valuable  article  upon  their  own  pre- 
mises. Among  the  whin  rocks,  there  are  considerable  quantities  of 
beautiful  spar ;  and  in  some  of  the  rocks  by  the  river  side  blue  and 
red  pebble  stones  are  plentiful. 

This  parish  contains  a  considerable  variety  of  soil.  The  eastern 
part,  which  is  flat  and  sandy,  contains  in  some  places  a  light  loam 
on  a  bed  of  sand,  and  in  these  places  there  are  raised  tolerably  good 
crops  of  oats,  barley,  and  rye,  and  also  some  wheat.  There  is  also 
a  very  considerable  extent  of  links,  affording  a  slight  pasturage  for 
sheep  and  cattle,  and  supplying  also  a  considerable  quantity  of  rab- 
bits. The  profits  arising  from  this  latter  source,  however,  are  not 
so  great  as  formerly,  in  consequence  of  the  great  reduction  m  the 
price  of  their  skins,  which  some  years  ago  sold  at  8s.  per  dozen, 
but  now  (1835)  seldom  bring  more  than  3s.  6d.  or  4s.  In  the  west- 


FERRY  PORT-ON-CRAIG. 


83 


ern  and  higher  p.art  of  the  parish,  the  soil  is  generally  a  black  loam 
Ibunded  upon  whin  rock,  and  produces  excellent  crops  of  all  kinds 
of  grain.  Green  crops  of  every  kind  are  successfully  cultivated,  and 
of  late  years  the  farntiers  have  raised  great  quantities  of  potatoes 
for  the  London  market,  which  yield  them  a  fair  profit  when  sold  at 
9s.  or  10s.  per  boll  of  32  stones  Dutch. 

Flax,  which  in  former  times  was  produced  in  considerable  quan- 
tities, and  of  good  quality  in  the  parish,  seems  now  to  be  totally 
abandoned. 

Extent,  4'c. — The  whole  extent  of  the  parish,  according  to  a  survey 
taken  in  1831,  is  2598.314  imperial  acres,  exclusive  of  commons. 
There  are  only  four  farms,  besides  upwards  of  100  acres  let  out 
in  small  portions  to  a  number  of  individuals  in  the  village,  who  keep 
cows  and  horses. 

The  cattle  reared  in  the  parish  are  a  mixed  breed,  embracing  the 
Fife,  Angus,  and  Ayrshire  kinds.  There  is  also  a  considerable 
number  of  sheep,  chiefly  a  cross  breed  between  the  Cheviot  and 
Leicestershire  kinds.  The  number  of  horses  generally  kept  in 
the  parish  may  be  reckoned  at  about  forty ;  and  they  are  chiefly 
employed  for  agricultural  purposes. 

IL — Civil  History. 

It  appears  that  this  was  erected  into  .a  separate  parish  by  an  act 
of  King  James  VL  in  the  year  1606.    It  is  supposed  to  have  pre- 
viously formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Leuchars,  although  it  does  not 
appear  that  there  is  any  authentic  record  of  this  fact.  There  is,  in 
the  parish,  a  field  which  still  retains  the  name  of  the  chapel,  in  con- 
sequence, as  is  supposed,  of  there  having  been  a  chapel  there  pre- 
viously to  the  separate  erection  of  the  parish.    The  estate  of 
Scotscraig,  which  comprises  the  whole  parish,  was  formerly  the  pro- 
perty of  Archbishop  Sharp  of  St  Andrews.     The  principal  farm 
was  church  land,  and  was  at  one  time  feued  by  authority  of  the 
Pope  at  the  sum  of  L.  132,  18s.  8d.  Scots  money,  and  4  bolls  of 
pease.    Tradition  says  that  the  feuar  was  a  Mr  Scott,  of  the  fami- 
ly of  Balwearie  in  Fife,  who,  to  distinguish  it  from  other  places  cal- 
led Craig,  prefixed  his  own  name  to  it;  hence  Scotscraig,  the  name 
wliich  the  whole  estate  now  bears.    A  portion  of  the  Archbishop's 
room  is  still  pointed  out  in  a  fragment  of  the  old  mansion-house, 
now  forming  part  of  the  garden  wall.   The  present  house  was  built 
in  1807,  and  is  a  large  and  substantial  building. 

Antiquities. — The  only  interesting  object  of  antiquity  in  the 
parish  is  the  remains  of  an  old  building,  usually  denominated  the 


84 


FIFESHIRH. 


Castle.  Of  its  original  purpose  and  design,  however,  there  is  no 
certain  account  to  be  found.  From  the  construction  of  the  build- 
ing itself,  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  it  was  erected  after  the 
use  of  fire  arms ;  and,  probably,  it  may  have  been  designed  to  con- 
stitute a  protection  against  the  entrance  of  any  hostile  force  by  the 
river,  and  for  that  purpose  to  act  in  concert  with  the  Castle  of 
Broughty  on  the  opposite  shore.    On  this  point,  however,  we  are 

left  entirely  to  conjecture. 

III. — Population. 

The  population  of  the  parish  in  1753  was  621 

1796,  .  875 

1801,         .  920 

1811,  .  1164 

1821,  .  1461 

1831,  .  1680 

Thus  showing  a  gradual  and  pretty  uniform  increase  during  nearly 

a  century.    The  increase  may  be  accounted  for  partly  from  the 

encouragement  given  for  feuing  by  the  proprietor  of  Scotscraig, 

and  partly  from  the  circumstance  of  the  average  of  births  being 

greater  than  that  of  deaths,  as  appears  from  the  following  averages 

for  the  seven  years  preceding  1831. 

Average  of  births  for  these  seven  years,  41 
deaths,       .  •  27 

marriages,  •  1 3 

The  principal  part  of  the  population  is  in  the  village,  which,  by  the 
census  of  1831,  contained  1538,  while  there  were  in  the  other  parts 
of  the  parish  only  142.    The  number  of  families  was  417,  and  the 
number  of  inhabited  houses  311.    The  greater  number  of  the 
houses  are  only  one  story  in  heighth,  and  contain  two  and  sometimes 
three  apartments.  But  there  is  also  a  number  of  two-story  houses, 
generally  containing  four  apartments,  and  sometimes  the  same 
number  of  families.    The  houses  more  recently  built,  however, 
are  both  more  handsome  and  more  commodious.   On  many  of  the 
feus  taken  within  the  last  seven  years,  very  handsome  houses  have 
been  erected,  and  covered  with  blue  slate,  by  which  the  appearance 
of  the  village  has  been  greatly  improved. 

IV. — Industry. 
The  agricultural  state  of  the  parish  may  be  exhibited  in  round 

numbers  as  under : 

Imperial  acres  in  a  state  of  cultivation,  • 

not  cultivated,  including  roads,       1 1<10 
underwood,  .  • 

2594 

Besides  the  above,  there  are  about  18  acres  of  undivided  common. 


FERRY  PORT-ON-CRAIG. 


85 


lying  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  village,  and  to  which  all 
within  the  parish  have  a  right  for  pasturage. 

The  wood  generally  planted  is  larch,  until  the  last  two  years, 
when  a  considerable  quantity  of  oak  has  been  planted.  The  farms 
are  generally  let  for  a  term  of  nineteen  years,  and  the  rents,  being 
paid  partly  in  victual,  convertible  at  the  fiars  prices,  are  conse- 
quently variable.  According  to  present  prices,  the  whole  parish 
will  not  yield  an  average  of  L.  1,  10s.  per  acre.  There  are 
upwards  of  100  acres,  however,  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood 
of  the  village,  let  out  in  small  portions  at  much  higher  rents  than 
the  farms,  and  varying  from  L.  1,  lOs.  to  L.  5  per  acre.  The 
common  rate  of  wages  for  farm-servants  is  L.  10  to  a  married  man, 
with  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  a  house,  and  a  cow  kept  on  the  farm. 
Unmarried  men  receive  from  L.  9  to  L,  10,  with  6^  bolls  of  meal. 
Female  servants  receive  from  L.  4,  10s.  to  L.  5.  Day-labourers 
are  paid  at  the  rate  of  Is.  6d.  a-day  in  summer,  and  Is.  4d.  in  winter. 

With  the  exception  of  a  few  fields,  the  parish  may  be  said  to  be 
wholly  destitute  of  enclosures.  The  farm-buildings,  however,  are 
substantial ;  two  of  them  of  recent  erection  are  very  superior. 

Produce. — There  is  considerable  difficulty  in  ascertaining  the 
average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in  the  parish,  but  the 
following  may  be  taken  as  a  pretty  near  approximation : 

Produce  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  say  -           L.  3000  0  0 

Potatoes,  turnips,  &c.  .           -           _           1000  0  0 

Grass,  including  hay  crop,  -           -                ]  300  0  0 

Quarries,                  -  -           .           -               20  0  0 

Fisheries,          -          -  -          .          -        900  0  0 

Yearly  sale  of  rabbits,  say  -          -            140  0  0 

Miscellaneous,              -  -          -          _         50  0  0 

L.  6410    0  0 

The  real  rent  of  the  parish  is  about  L.  2500. 

In  the  item  of  grass  in  the  above  statement,  the  calculation  is  made 
according  to  the  estimated  value  of  pasturage  during  the  season 
for  a  cow  or  full-grown  ox.  The  calculation  concerning  the  grain 
has  reference  chiefly  to  the  prices  of  1833  and  1834. 

Manvfactures. — The  principal  manufacture  is  hand-loom  weav- 
ing, in  which  there  is  a  very  considerable  number,  both  of  men  and 
women,  employed.  They  receive  their  work  chiefly  from  manu- 
facturers in  Dundee.  Several  of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  at 
this  work  in  winter,  who  go  to  other  employments  in  summer.  An 
industrious  hand-loom  weaver  can  now  earn  from  10s.  to  12s.  a- 
week. 

Fishing. — There  is  a  considerable  salmon-fishing  belonging  to 


8G  FIFESHIRE. 

the  estate  of  Scotscraig,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  parish, 
and  now  let  at  an  yearly  rent  of  L.  600.  Formerly,  when  stake- 
nets  were  used,  this  fishing  station  sometimes  brought  upwards  of 
L.  2000  of  yearly  rent.  The  only  mode  of  fishing  now  in  use  is 
by  net  and  coble. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Fairs,  4-c.— There  is  a  sort  of  fair  held  in  the  village  annually 
upon  the  first  Tuesday  of  June,  old  style.  In  former  times  it  was 
well  attended,  but  is  now  reduced  to  a  few  hucksters'  stands,  and 
is  of  no  importance  to  the  place.  The  nearest  market-town  of  any 
consequence  within  the  county  is  Cupar,  the  county  town,  (eleven 
miles  distant,)  where  several  well  frequented  fairs  are  held  during 
the  year.  The  principal  intercourse,  however,  is  with  Dundee,  to 
which  there  is  easy  access,  either  by  the  steam-boat  on  the  New- 
port passage,  or  by  an  excellent  sailing  vessel  which  leaves  Ferry 
Port-on- Craig  for  Dundee,  and  returns  every  lawful  day,  carrymg 

goods  and  passengers. 

Means  of  Communication.—The  communication  with  this  pa- 
rish has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  new  and  beautiful  line  of  road 
between  the  village  and  Newport,  a  distance  of  about  three  miles. 
This  road  was  made  in  1830,  almost  at  the  sole  expense  of  Robert 
Dalgleish,  Esq.  at  that  time  sole  proprietor  of  the  parish,  and 
may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  valuable  improvements  to  the 
place  which  has  been  accomplished  for  many  years.  There  are 
two  piers  at  the  ferry,  at  the  largest  of  which  vessels  land  with  coal 
and  other  cargoes,  and  where  grain,  potatoes,  and  other  kinds  of 
goods  are  shipped  for  London  and  other  ports.  The  smaller  pier 
is  the  landing  place  for  the  passage-boats. 

Ecclesiastical  Sta^e.— The  parish  church  is  a  neat  and  substantial 
building.  It  was  rebuilt  in  1825,  and  contains  from  800  to  900  per- 
sons. It  is  most  conveniently  situated  for  the  parishioners,  being  in 
the  village,  where  by  far  the  greater  number  of  the  people  reside. 
The  sacrament  is  dispensed  twice  a-year,  in  June  and  November,  and 
the  average  number  of  communicants  may  be  stated  at  550.  The 
people  are  most  regular  and  exemplary  in  their  attendance  on  di- 
vine ordinances,  the  church  being  generally  well  filled.  There  are 
sixteen  sittings  set  apart  for  the  poor ;  but  there  are  many  persons 
besides  allowed  to  sit  free. 

There  is  a  small  Dissenting  meeting-house  m  the  village,  m  con- 
nection with  the  United  Secession,  having  about  fifty  members  m 
the  parish,-any  others  that  belongto  it  coming  from  otherpanshes. 


FERUY-PORT-ON-CRAIG. 


87 


The  manse  was  built  in  1796,  and  is  a  very  substantial  house, 
and  in  good  repair.  The  glebe  consists  of  about  seven  acres  arable, 
and  four  acres  of  foggage  or  grass  glebe,  Scotch  measure.  The 
stipend  is  the  minimum. 

Poor. — There  is  no  assessment  for  the  poor  in  this  parish,  that 
evil  having  hitherto  been  provided  against  by  the  liberality  of  the 
parishioners  in  their  weekly  collections  at  the  church  door,  aided  by 
the  kind  and  judicious  consideration  of  the  proprietors  of  Scotscraig, 
who  advance  such  suras  from  time  to  time  as  may  be  found  neces- 
sary, along  with  the  collections,  to  supply  the  regular  disbursements. 
There  are  generally  about  20  paupers  on  the  roll,  and  they  re- 
ceive from  Is.  to  2s.  6d.  a  week  according  to  their  circumstances. 
Extraordinary  collections  are  made  at  the  beginning  of  the  year, 
and  at  the  dispensation  of  the  sacrament,  on  which  occasions  an 
extra  allowance  is  made  to'  the  poor.  The  yearly  amount  of  col- 
lections at  the  church  may  be  L,  55 :  the  proprietors'  contributions 
L.  40.  The  laudable  desire  prevails  to  support  themselves  with- 
out parochial  aid,  as  long  as  possible,  and  in  some  cases  the  kirk- 
session  has  found  it  expedient  to  offer  aid  to  such  as  were  known  to 
be  in  need,  before  they  had  made  any  application  for  it.  It  is  fre- 
quently found,  too,  that  they  who  are  backward  in  letting  their 
wants  be  known,  and  manifest  a  reluctance  to  accept  of  help,  are 
far  more  needy  as  well  as  far  more  deserving  objects  than  they 
who  are  forward  to  seek  relief. 

Education. — Besides  the  parish  school,  there  are  two  private 
schools,  one  of  which  is  taught  by  a  female,  and  is  chiefly  attended 
by  girls.  The  salary  of  the  parish  schoolmaster  is  L.  30,  with 
house  and  garden.  Besides  the  ordinary  branches  of  education 
taught  at  the  parish  school,  navigation,  French,  and  Latin,  are 
taught.  The  teacher's  school  fees  amount  to  L.  22  per  annum, 
and  his  yearly  emoluments  from  other  sources  maybe  about  L.  12. 
There  are  always  five  bursars  or  free  scholars  at  the  parish 
school,  whose  education  is  provided  for  by  the  investment  of  a 
sum  of  money  by  the  late  William  Dalgleish,  Esq.  of  Scotscraig, 
the  interest  of  which  is  paid  to  the  schoolmaster.  The  heritor 
and  the  minister  of  the  parish  have  the  power  of  appointing  to 
the  benefit,  which  is  restricted  to  boys.  Every  child  admitted  to 
this  privilege  enjoys  it  for  five  years,  and  the  preference  is  al- 
ways given  to  poor  children, '  the  benefit  being  expressly  de- 
signed for  such.  '  The  schools  are  all  well  attended,  the  people 
generally  manifesting  a  laudable  desire  to  have  their  children  edu- 


88 


FIFESHIRE. 


ctited.  Here,  however,  as  well  as  in  other  parts  of  the  country 
in  these  days,  the  want  of  a  due  attention  to  the  spiritual  interests 
of  the  young  on  the  part  of  the  parents,  was  seen  and  lamented  ; 
and  to  remedy  as  far  as  possible  the  evil  resulting  from  such  ne- 
glect, several  Sabbath  evening  schools  have  been  instituted.  These 
schools  are  conducted  by  elders  of  the  Established  church,  and 
other  benevolent  individuals,  who  gratuitously  give  their  time 
and  labour  to  the  important  purpose  of  instructing  the  young  in 
the  truths  of  religion.  In  winter  there  are  about  200  children  at- 
tending these  schools.  There  is  a  library  in  connection  with  them, 
composed  of  small  religious  books,  which  are  kept  in  constant  cir- 
culation among  the  children.  The  funds  for  the  support  of  this 
library  arise  from  collections  made  in  the  parish  church,  where  an 
evening  sermon  is  occasionally  preached  for  that  purpose,  and  on 
which  occasions  the  children  all  attend  with  their  teachers. 

Libraries. — A  subscription  library  for  the  use  of  the  parish  was 
instituted  in  1829.  Each  subscriber  pays  2s.  of  entry-money,  and 
thereafter  2s.  annually,  or  6d.  quarterly,  and  on  these  easy  terms 
he  enjoys  the  use  of  a  valuable  collection  of  religious  and  hterary 
productions. 

Savings  Bank.— A  savings  bank  has  just  been  instituted  (Janu- 
ary 1836)  in  the  village,  but  has  not  yet  existed  sufficiently  long 
to  justify  any  expression  of  opinion  as  to  its  success. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

In  taking  a  general  view  of  the  state  of  the  parish,  and  contrast- 
ing it  with  what  appears  to  have  been  its  condition  at  the  time  of 
the  last  Statistical  Account,  little  occurs  as  worthy  of  remark.  It 
has  of  course  partaken,  in  common  with  other  places,  in  the  ge- 
neral advancement  and  improvement  in  the  affairs  of  human  life. 
Agriculture  seems  to  have  undergone  considerable  improvement, 
and  almost  every  part  of  the  parish  is  now  under  cultivation,  which 
can  be  expected  to  repay  the  labour.  There  is  nothing  in  which 
we  seem  to  be  left  so  far  behind,  amid  the  improvements  of  the  age, 
as  the  state  of  the  ferry  passage,  which  has  still  to  be  effected  in 
every  state  of  the  weather  by  small  sailing  boats.  Scarcely  any 
where  else  in  the  kingdom  is  this  now  the  case  on  a  passage  of 
nearly  two  miles.  A  steam  boat  is  therefore  much  desiderated  ; 
and  it  is  hoped  that,  among  the  improvements  so  vigorously  carry- 
ing on  under  the  new  proprietorship  of  Scotscraig,  this  will  not  be 
long  wanting. 

March  1836. 


PARISH  OF  KINGSBARNS. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE, 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  WRIGHT,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  this  parish  does  not  appear,  from  our  ear- 
liest records,  which  go  back  to  the  time  of  its  establishment,  to 
have  undergone  any  change.  It  may  fairly  be  supposed  to  have 
orio-inated  from  the  intimate  connection  which  is  known  to  have 
existed  between  the  ancient  Royal  family  of  Scotland  when  re- 
sident at  Falkland  and  this  part  of  the  country.  About  800 
acres  of  the  richest  land  of  the  parish  were  originally  their  pri- 
vate property.  It  is  held  of  the  Crown  in  feu,  and  pays  to  the 
Exchequer  a  specified  amount  of  grain  and  money.  The  place 
is  shown,  and  the  form  of  a  moat  is  still  discernible  immediately 
above  the  sea-beach,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  village,  where 
what  was  called  the  Castle  of  Kingsbarns  once  stood.  The  re- 
mains of  its  foundation,  composed  of  large  and  massy  stones,  regu- 
larly laid,  were  a  few  years  ago  removed  by  the  present  tenant.  As 
a  royal  or  baronial  residence  the  site  is  certainly  small;  but  if  it 
be  viewed  as  the  place  where  the  above  feu,  chiefly  in  grain,  was 
deposited  until  removed  for  the  use  of  the  royal  household  at  Falk- 
land,— in  fact,  as  the  granary  or  barn  of  the  King, — then  the  size 
is  suitable,  and  the  name  of  the  parish  is  fairly  derived,  and  readily 
explained.  Its  castellated  form  was  essential  when  the  maurading 
incursions  of  the  Scandinavian  nations,  in  these  days  of  rapine  and 
violence,  are  borne  in  mind. 

Extent — Boundaries. — The  parish  forms,  of  course  with  many 
inequalities  of  line,  a  square  of  nearly  4  English  miles.  It  is  dis- 
tant six  and  a-half  miles  from  St  Andrews,  and  three  from  CraiL 
It  is  bounded  by  the  former  parish  on  the  north,  and  by  the  latter 
on  the  south ;  by  the  German  Ocean  on  the  east ;  and  by  the  pa- 
rish of  St  Leonards  on  the  west. 

Topograpliical  Appearances. — There  is  no  ground  of  great  eleva- 
tion within  the  parish.  From  the  west,  its  highest  range,  to  the  east, 


90 


FIFESHIRE. 


its  lowest,  it  gradually  slopes  down  to  the  sea.    It  consists  of  two 
ranges  of  land,  upon  the  lower  of  which  the  village  of  Kingsbarns 
stands,  and  the  greater  population  reside.    The  shore  is  low  and 
rocky,  presenting,  unless  at  Randerstone,  no  prominent  headlands, 
but  possessing  a  long  line  of  rugged  front  (with  occasional  sandy 
recesses)  sufficient  to  repel  the  long  waste  of  waves  which  roll  in 
from  the  German  Ocean.    It  is  fortunate  in  possessing  so  stern  a 
barrier  of  rock,  as  the  swell,  which  a  continuance  of  easterly  gales 
brings  in  from  the  main  sea,  is  most  tremendous.   Still,  for  many 
years  past,  the  sea  has  been  making  encroachments  upon  the  land, 
which,  indeed,  from  its  hght  shelly  composition,  would  seem  to 
have  been  the  residue  of  former  tides.    The  recesses  above  refer- 
red to  form  excellent  places  of  deposit  for  the  sea-ware,  which  is 
carefully  collected  and  carted  off  by  the  farmer,  and  applied  to  the 
fields.    Of  late  years,  much  less  has  come  than  formerly.  Some 
ascribe  the  change  to  the  immense  amount  of  stone  removed  from 
the  shore,  for  building  dikes  and  drains.    This  practice,  continu- 
ed time  out  of  mind,  has  tended  to  lower  the  surface, — to  present 
fewer  points  of  seizure,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,  to  the  weed, 
and  fewer  eddies  to  the  waves. 

The  parish  on  its  sea  line  possesses  neither  prominency  nor  in- 
dentation of  form  deserving  particular  notice.  It  lies  between  the 
Friths  of  Forth  and  Tay,  and  immediately  to  the  north  of  what  is 
called  the  East  Neuk,  the  eastermost  point  of  land  of  what  was 
called  in  the  olden  time  the  Kingdom  of  Fife.  This  position 
renders  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  less  liable  to  intense 
cold. 

In  former  times,  the  excess  of  moisture  in  this  parish  was  attend- 
ed with  injurious  consequences  to  the  health  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  village.  From  its  situation  being  directly  below  the  rising  ground, 
and  in  the  course  through  which  much  of  the  superficial  and  drained 
waters  flowed  down  to  the  sea,  it  became  the  seat  of  agues  and  fevers, 
and  was  certain  to  receive  the  visitation  of  every  epidemic  complaint 
raging  in  the  country.  Within  these  ten  years,  much  has  been  done 
to  remedy  its  unfortunate  position.  A  cast  from  the  sea  has  been 
brought  up ;  the  open  ditches  and  drains  in  and  around  covered  in  ; 
the  streets  properly  levelled  and  metalled  ;  many  of  the  old  and  un- 
comfortable houses  taken  down  ;  new  ones  with  enlarged  accom- 
modation within,  and  neat  flower-plots  in  front,  erected ;  and,  from 
being  one  of  the  dirtiest  and  most  unwholesome  places  of  residence, 
it  now  can  bear  fair  comparison  with  most  of  its  neighbours.   It  is 


KINGSBARNS. 


91 


singular  that  a  disease  similar  to  cholera  in  the  suddenness  of  its 
attack  and  the  destructive  rapidity  of  its  course,  appears  from  the  re- 
gister of  burials  to  have  existed  exactly  a  century  ago  in  the  parish. 
What  the  population  then  was  is  unknown,  but  the  deaths  for  the 
year  1733  were  58,  while  the  average  of  the  six  succeeding  years 
21|.  Tradition  states  that  it  was  confined  to  this  village;  that  the 
disease  commenced  with  an  excruciating  pain  in  the  head ;  that 
chiefly  grown  up  persons,  young  and  robust,  as  well  as  old  and 
feeble,  were  attacked ;  and  that  in  a  few  hours  death  ensued.  No 
name  is  given  to  the  disease ;  but  that  it  was  considered  malig- 
nant, appears  evident  from  this,  that  many  were  buried  the  same 
day  they  died,  and  none  remained  unburied  over  the  next  day. 

Mineralogy. — Lime  and  freestone,  with  occasional  boulders  of 
granite,  are  the  prevailing  kinds  of  rock,  both  on  the  sea  shore  and 
in  the  upper  lands.  Coal  also  appears  to  exist  largely  under- 
neath the  greater  part  of  the  parish ;  since  both  among  the  rocks 
at  the  sea,  as  well  as  on  the  sides  of  the  burns  on  the  high  grounds, 
seams  here  and  there  appear.  Frojn  the  vestiges  of  workings  on 
the  lands  at  and  immediately  above  the  shore,  the  coal,  in  so  far  as 
tow  and  buckets  and  levels  go,  would  appear  to  have  been  wrought. 
Where  it  peeps  out,  it  is  at  times  quarried  by  the  poor  people ;  of 
course  it  is  small  and  brushy.  By  proper  application  it  might  be- 
come available  to  the  public,  since  it  is  most  likely  to  be  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  same  strata  which  have  for  a  century  past  been 
successfully  wrought  on  the  high  grounds  to  the  westward.  But 
from  the  vast  amount  of  under  water  in  the  ground,  the  working 
would  require  considerable  power,  and  consequently  a  great  outlay. 

Lime  is  burnt  at  the  shore  by  the  proprietor  of  Cambo,  and  his 
tenants,  for  agricultural  and  architectural  purposes.  As,  however, 
no  land  quarry  is  opened,  and  the  rock  used  is  washed  every  tide 
by  the  sea,  and  no  proper  selection  of  stone  is  made,  the  produce 
is  variable  both  in  colour  and  quality.  Its  adhesive  power  is  un- 
commonly great ;  and  were  the  smallest  pains  bestowed  in  tracing 
the  rock  back  into  the  land,  there  cannot  be  a  doubt  that  lime  of 
excellent  properties  might  be  obtained. 

There  is  a  great  want  of  freestone  rock  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
parish.  This  has  proved  a  serious  obstruction  to  forming  enclo- 
sures, and  draining  the  land ;  the  rock  at  the  shore,  which  is  the  chief 
quarry,  is  at  too  great  a  distance,  and  causes  so  much  loss  of  time 
and  expense,  that  the  tenants  are  deterred  from  carrying  into  efTect 
many  an  improvement.  Tile-draining  is  on  that  account  beginning 


92 


FIFESHIRE. 


to  be  resorted  to.  Some  ironstone  is  also  found  amongst  the  rocks 
at  the  shore,  imbedded  in  their  laminae,  or  rolled  in  by  the  tide.  A 
person  has  a  lease  of  it  from  the  different  proprietors  ;  he  employs 
a  few  hands  in  digging  and  collecting  it,  and  usually  ships  it  off  to 
Newcastle,  whence  he  brings  English  coal  for  sale. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Kingsbarns  was  disjoined  from  the  parish  of  Crail  by  an  act 
of  the  Commission  of  Teinds  in  1631.  Whether  any  chapel  for 
the  administration  of  religious  ordinances  previously  existed,  is  un- 
known. In  the  parish  register  we  find  it  recorded,,  that,  in  1630, 
a  contribution  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor  was  made,— which  seems 
to  have  been  paid  by  all  classes  of  the  people,  and  at  successive 
times,  as  could  be  afforded.  But  as  the  date  is  exactly  the  year 
preceding  the  disjunction  of  the  parishes,  it  seems  highly  probable 
that  the  contribution  was  commenced  and  conducted  with  the  view 
of  establishing  a  separate  poors'  fund,  and  forms  no  evidence  that 
there  was  any  church  here  previously.  The  parish  records  are 
wonderfully  entire,  running  up  with  httle  interruption  to  the  ear- 
hest  period  of  its  independent  existence,  though  not  entering  with 
any  minuteness  into  the  improvements  which  have  been  effected 
upon  the  conditions  of  the  people  and  the  habits  of  society. 

Land-owners. — The  landed  proprietors,  and  the  amount  of  their 
valued  rents,  stand  thus:— Sir  David  Erskine  of  Cambo,  L.  3010, 
3s.  4d.  Scots ;  David  Hay  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Randerstone,  L.  998, 
13s.  4d.;  David  Monypenny,  Esq.  of  Pitmilly,  L.916;  George 
Cheape,  Esq.  of  Kippo,  L.  881,  3s.  7d. ;  David  Lindsay,  Esq.  of 
Lochton,  L.  216,  16s.  5d.;  General  Graham  Stirling,  L.  171  ; 
John  Bell,  Esq.  of  Kilduncan,  L.  159, 10s. ;  total,  L.  6353,  6s.  8d. 
Scots. 

Antiquities. — There  are  ho  antiquities  in  the  parish  of  any 
consequence.  In  levelling  and  improving  the  braes  on  the  sea 
shore,  numerous  stone  coffins,  rudely  constructed  of  coarse  flags, 
and  containing  human  bones,  have  been  found.  In  one  instance 
only,  on  the  occasion  of  lowering  a  small  height  on  the  road  to 
St  Andrews,  the  action  of  fire  had  been  apphed,  and  the  bones 
were  found  calcined  and  reduced  to  fragments,  and  placed  in  a 
hole  of  very  small  dimensions,  carefully  flagged.  They  are  usually 
considered  as  the  remains  of  the  Scandinavian  freebooters,  who 
in  ancient  times  made  frequent  descents  upon  the  eastern  coast 
of  Scotland,— though  they  are  not  of  the  great  size  traditionally 
assigned  to  the  men  of  these  days. 


KINGSBARNS. 


93 


III. — Population. 
About  a  century  ago  the  number  of  poor  on  the  roll  was  seven. 
If  these  bore  the  same  proportion  to  the  population  as  the  regu- 
lar poor  do  now,  the  number  must  have  been  doubled.  But,  from 
the  change  of  habits  in  the  people,  and  the  gradual  abolition  of 
the  high  feelings  of  independence  once  so  prevalent,  this  mode  of 
judging  cannot  be  correct.    My  predecessor,  Mr  Beatson,  in  his 
report  states,  that  "  at  the  time  of  Dr  Webster's  report,  the  num- 
bers were  871.    From  the  last  state  of  the  roll  the  numbers 
amount  to  807,  of  whom  467  reside  in  the  village,  and  the  re- 
maining 340  inhabit  the  country  part  of  the  parish.    For  30 
years  the  annual  averages  have  been  ]6  deaths,  22  baptisms,  and 
6  marriages."    When  the  present  incumbent  took  up  his  list  of 
the  population  in  1811  the  amount  was  942, — 629  in  the  village, 
and  313  in  the  country.    In  1830  it  was  1013, — 581  in  the  for- 
mer, 432  in  the  latter.    The  census  of  1831,  which  included  all 
labourers  within  the  bounds  of  each  parish  at  the  time,  gives 
1023, — 593  in  the  village,  and  430  in  the  country.   The  propor- 
tion of  males  to  females  in  both  places  is  rather  singular.   In  the 
village  the  former  are  to  the  latter  as  249  to  344,  while  in  the 
country  they  are  as  214  to  216.    The  cause  of  the  excess  of  fe- 
males in  the  village  arises  from  the  circumstance,  that  in  the 
country  there  is  seldom  attached  to  the  farm-steadings  more  houses 
than  answer  for  the  farm-servants  and  their  families ;  hence  wi- 
dows with  children,  and  single  women,  seek  a  dwelling  in  the 
former.     The  general  and  progressive  increase  of  the  population 
is  owing  to  the  great  improvement  during  the  last  fifty  years  in 
the  science  of  agriculture,  and  to  the  extra  and  steady  employ- 
ment which  the  enclosing,  draining,  and  extensive  cultivation  of 
waste  lands  has  given.    The  average  of  births  during  the  last 
seven  years  has  been  29^,  of  deaths  14,  and  of  marriages  8f. 

One  Baronet,  and  a  retired  Judge  of  the  Court  of  Session  reside 
upon  their  estates. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  3  illegitimate  births 
in  the  parish. 

Character,  Sfc.  of  the  People — The  inhabitants  are  rather  re- 
markable for  height.  When  the  local  militia  were  embodied,  a 
greater  number  of  men  in  the  grenadier  company  came  from  this 
parish  than  from  any  other  in  the  eastern  district  of  Fife. 

Much  improvement  in  the  condition  and  comforts  of  the  people 
has  of  late  years  taken  place.    An  inclination  to  render  their  per- 


94 


FIFESHIRE. 


sons  more  neat,  their  houses  more  cleanly,  and  their  fore-grounds 
and  gardens  more  ornamented,  is  prevalent.  The  vast  expen- 
diture of  money  during  the  late  war  in  the  country,  and  the 
high  price  given  for  manufactures  and  labour,  introduced  a  taste 
for  better  living  and  greater  accommodation.  The  benefits  of 
this  change,  though  for  many  years  past  the  value  of  wages  and 
the  return  for  all  produce  have  greatly  fallen,  still  continue.  Al- 
most every  family  of  the  labouring  classes  keeps  a  sow ;  and  its 
flesh,  along  with  potatoes,  which  in  general  are  abundant  and 
cheap,  and  fish  caught  off  the  shore  in  summer,  and  herrings  usu- 
ally obtained  in  the  same  quarter,  and  salted  in  the  neighbouring 
towns,  with  occasionally  meat  from  the  butcher, — give  an  abun- 
dance of  wholesome  and  nourishing  food.  Their  habits  are  in  ge- 
neral quiet  and  orderly.  They  are  attentive  to  the  education  of 
their  children,  and  regular  in  attendance  upon  public  worship. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — As  the  agricultural  interest  is  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant in  this  parish,  the  following  details  may  be  submitted : 

The  number  of  acres  within  its  bounds  are  3057,  1  rood,  25  falls 
Scots  measure;  of  these  there  are  under  the  plough  2898  acres,  2 
roods;  under  wood  150  acres,  1  rood,  25  falls;  and  unarable  8  acres, 
2  roods  ;  of  the  latter,  two  might  be  improved  ;  and  the  remainder 
consists  of  old  quarries  and  rocky  ground  on  the  sea  shore.  The 
wood  consists  of  forest  trees  with  firs  as  rearers,  and  small  portions 
of  shrubbery  and  evergreens  round  the  mansions  of  the  resident 
heritors. 

The  arable  land  is  divided  into  18  farms,  and  a  few  pendicle 
acres  at  the  village.  These  farms,  from  the  quality  of  the  soil,  may 
be  divided  into  two  classes, — the  first  embracing  9  farms  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  parish,  and  having  more  or  less  connection  with 
the  sea  shore,  and  having  right  to  the  ware,  limestone,  &c.  upon  it : 
and  the  latter,  consisting  of  9  farms  on  the  higher  grounds,  but 
having,  with  the  exception  of  one,  no  claim  whatever  to  the  ad- 
vantages of  the  sea  shore.  The  former,  with  the  small  pendicle 
acres,  contains  1390  arable  acres,  and  therefore  average  nearly  154| 
acres  each,  the  largest  farm  containing  294  acres,  and  the  smallest 
40.  The  latter  contains  1508  acres,  and  averages  are  about  167^ 
acres  each ;  the  largest  being  386  acres,  and  the  smallest  92. 

The  quahty  of  the  soil  in  the  first  of  these  two  classes  of  farms 
is  much  superior  to  that  in  the  second.    In  order,  therefore,  to  give 


KINGSBARNS. 


95 


a  distinct  report  upon  this  part  of  the  subject,  it  will  be  necessary 
for  me  to  consider  them  separately. 

1st,  The  soil  of  the  nine  lower  farms  consists  of  two  kinds, — a 
light  and  sandy  but  active  soil,  along  the  whole  range  of  land 
directly  above  the  sea  shore,  unless  perhaps  toward  the  eastern 
end  of  the  parish,  where  it  is  stronger, — and  immediately  above 
that,  the  ground  is  in  general  a  deep  black  loam,  in  some  parts 
tending  to  clay,  and  admirably  adapted  for  close  and  continued 
corn-cropping.  In  this  quarter  of  the  country,  during  fully 
the  last  half  century,  the  alternate  system  of  husbandry  has  been 
ably  followed.  Under  it,  the  first  kind  of  soil  now  referred  to 
is  usually  employed  in  raising  turnips  and  potatoes,  upon  which 
a  considerable  amount  of  cattle  are  annually  fed  off.  Upon  the 
latter,  these  crops  are  more  rarely  taken,  fallow,  beans,  and  grass 
being  interposed  between  the  white  crops.  The  cultivation  of  the 
strong  lands  generally  runs  in  the  sixth  course, — fallow,  wheat, 
beans,  barley,  grass,  and  oats, — though  of  late  the  pressure  from 
low  prices  upon  the  farmer  has  compelled  a  shorter  course  of  crop- 
ping and  a  more  frequent  introduction  of  wheat.  Whether  in 
nineteen  years,  the  usual  length  of  a  lease,  the  general  amount  of 
production,  and  consequently  of  profit,  be  thereby  increased,  seems 
somewhat  questionable.  On  the  lighter  soil,  the  course  generally 
pursued  is  green  crops,  wheat  or  barley,  grass  for  one  or  more 
years,  and  oats.  This  also  is  not  seldom  varied ;  and  after  ley, 
wheat  or  barley  are  occasionally  taken.  The  want  of  pasture-grass 
on  these  farms  is  remedied  by  the  farmers  taking  parks  for  their 
young  stock  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  country.  In  giving  a  rough 
estimate  of  the  produce  of  this  part  of  the  parish  in  corn,  cattle, 
and  potatoes  brought  to  market,  I  give  the  average  from  1827  to 
1831,  both  included,— only  I  may  premise  that  the  crops  were,  from 
cold  and  wet  seasons,  more  than  usually  short.  Of  the  1390  acres 
of  which  the  first  class  of  farms  consist,  781  acres  were  upon  an 
average  during  the  above  five  years  annually  in  crop,  and  in  the 
following  proportions:  246  in  wheat;  139  in  beans;  191  in  bar- 
ley ;  and  205  in  oats.  The  return  was  7|  bolls  per  acre ;  the  most 
productive  farms  giving  10,  the  least  productive  giving  6^  bolls. 
This  gives  an  amount  of  6042^  bolls ;  and,  reserving  somewhat 
more  than  2  bolls  per  acre  for  seed,  servants'  meal,  household  con- 
sumption, and  horse-keep,  there  remains  for  market  4188  bolls  of 
gram.  Potatoes  also  are  raised  to  a  considerable  extent  for  sale,  be- 
sides the  free  use  of  them  as  daily  food  for  the  work-horses  and 


96  FIFESHIRE. 

for  fattening  cattle.  They  are  chiefly  exported  to  London  and 
Newcastle,  sometimes  by  the  grower  and  sometimes  by  the  mer- 
chant. The  amount  annually  disposed  of  may  be  2000  bolls  oi 
4  cwt.  A  due  proportion  of  cattle  are  regularly  fed  olf  each  wm- 
ter  Eight  of  the  farms  turn  out  from  the  byre,  one  year  with  ano- 
ther 90  head,  weighing  36  stones  each ;  and  the  other  disposes  of 
about  20  three-year-olds  each  spring.  The  rent  of  these  farms  is 
partly  in  money  and  partly  in  grain ;  with  a  maximum  fixed ;  and  the 
average  of  the  whole  is  L.  3,  12s.  9d.  per  acre.  A  deduction  was 
a  few  years  ago  granted  upon  the  higher  rented  of  them;  but  the 
very  great  and  continued  depression  in  the  price  of  agricultural 
produce  would  intimate  that  a  farther  abatement  is  necessary.  * 

o,d   The  upper  division  of  the  parish  consists  also  of  nine  farms. 
The  land  is  wholly  arable,  but,  from  the  inferiority  of  the  soil,  a 
different  rotation  of  cropping  is  pursued,— more  land  is  retained 
in  orass,  and  more  is  subjected  to  fallow.  The  soil  in  many  places 
is  s'trong  and  heavy,  and  in  others  a  thin  clay  and  muirish,  lymg  m 
general  upon  a  wet  bottom,  and  containing  much  water.  Green 
crops  cannot  be  successfully  cultivated  to  a  great  extent.  Fallow 
more  largely  takes  their  place;  and  when  the  land  is  enclosed, 
which  is  generally  the  case,  two  or  more  years  of  pasture  are 
included  in  the  rotation  of  cropping.    The  amount  under  corn 
upon  the  average  of  years  above  stated  is  838  acres,  m  the  follow- 
ing proportions:  217  in  wheat;  125  in  pease  and  beans;  183  m 
barley  ;  and  313  in  oats.    The  produce  per  acre  is  6  bolls ;  the 
highest  farm  producing  7  and  the  lowest  5  bolls.  Thi^s  gives  a  total 
produce  of  5028  bolls,  from  which,  deducting  for  seed,  &c.  2^  bolls 
per  acre,  there  remain  to  be  brought  to  market  3136  bolls  of  grain. 
About  200  bolls  of  potatoes  annually  are  sold ;  35  head  of  cattle 
at  35  stone  weight  are  fed  off,  and  28  sold  from  the  straw-yard. 
The  rent  of  these  upper  farms  is  upon  an  average  L.  2  per  acre ; 
the  highest  being  L.  2,  lis.  and  the  lowest  L.  1,  5s.    The  farms 
recently  taken  being  more  conformed  to  present  prices,  are  con- 
sidered as  able  to  pay ;  while  those  under  old  leases  are  gradually 
reducing  the  capital  of  the  tenants.    The  sheep  husbandry  is  no- 
where pursued.    Only  a  few  are  kept  by  the  resident  gentlemen 

for  their  private  use.  ,    •    r  i 

ProfZwce.— From  this  statement  the  following  brief  analysis  ot  the 

•  Since  1832,  many  of  the  money  rents  have  been  changed  into  a  cerUain  amoiint 
f  norn  in  vhctt,  barley,  and  oats,  ,,ayable  by  the  fiars  of  the  coi.nty.    In  proof  of 
tJisrthe  acmrrent  of  the  parish.  Jh^ch  in  that  year  was  L.  8290,  .s  Uus  year  only 
L.  6780. 


KINGSBARNS. 


97 


amount  of  produce  from  the  parish  may  be  given  :  Under  the  plough 
are  2898  acres  ;  of  these  each  year  are  sown  1619  acres.  The 
amount  of  bolls  produced  is  1 1,070^.  Deducting  seed,  &c.  there 
are  brought  to  market  7324  bolls  of  grain.  Of  potatoes  2200  bolls 
are  sold.  Of  cattle  125  head,  at  35  stone  each,  are  fattened  for  the 
butcher,  and  48  sold  for  the  grass,  from  the  straw-yard  annually. 
The  grain  is  computed  in  the  old  measure,  and  the  cattle  in 
Dutch  weight. 

Seventy-four  ploughmen  hired  by  the  year,  and  eleven  boys  are 
employed  on  those  eighteen  farms.    Much  of  the  wheat  and  beans 
on  the  low  lands  are  sown  in  drills,  which,  along  with  the  potato 
and  turnip,  give  a  vast  deal  of  employment  to  young  women  in 
hoeing.    About  1 13  are  so  occupied.    In  fact,  from  the  time  of 
planting  potatoes,  which  usually  begins  at  the  end  of  April,  until 
harvest  be  completed,  they  are  seldom  off  the  fields.    Their  pay- 
ment when  so  employed  is  8d.  per  day,  without  meat ;  and  when 
lifting  potatoes.  Is.  with  their  dinner.    A  good  labourer  with  the 
spade  obtains  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  6d.  per  day  in  summer,  and  from 
Is.  to  Is.  2d.  in  winter.    The  harvest  wages  are,  for  men,  L.  2, 
with  some  potato  and  lint  ground,  and  supper  meal,  and  for  women, 
L.  1,  13s.  with  the  above  bounties.    Draining  is  usually  contracted 
for  by  the  rood  of  six  yards  at  9d.  when  three  feet  deep,  and  more  or 
less  of  course  according  to  depth.    Mechanics,  such  as  masons, 
smiths,  and  wrights,  get  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  per  day.  The  smith  generally 
contracts  with  the  farmer  to  do  the  work  by  the  pair  of  horses,  at 
the  cost  of  from  L.2,  5s.  to  L.3,  including  their  shoeing,  the  keep- 
ing up  of  the  plough  and  harrows,  forks,  grapes,  &c.  and  every  thing 
pertaining  to  the  working  but  the  cart. 

The  breed  of  cattle  usually  preferred  is  the  Fife.  The  Tees- 
water  were  introduced  into  the  parish  by  the  late  Thomas  Earl  of 
Kelhe.  His  successor  is  returning  to  the  old  Fife  breed.  Though 
the  former  can  be  fed  off  at  three  years  old  at  a  much  greater  size 
still,  as  they  must  be  high  fed  from  birth,  and  require  very  fine 
grass,  the  farmers  find  it  more  profitable  to  retain  the  country 
breed. 

The  steadings  are  almost  all  good  in  themselves,  and  ample  in 
accommodation.  The  nobleman  mentioned  above  was  in  this  re- 
spect most  liberal  to  his  tenantry,  and  set  an  example  which  was 
generally  followed  in  the  neighbourhood.  Of  the  eighteen  farm- 
?fectiv?  ^^"'^  """"      considered  as  materially 

FIFE.  ■  ^ 


98  FIFESIllttE. 


The  great  employment  of  the  people  is  agriculturah  In  the 
former  Statistical  Account  of  this  parish,  the  writer  mentions, 
in  regard  to  this  class,  that  there  are  about  twenty-four  extensive 
farmers  whose  families  amount  to  192  souls.  Since  that  time  many 
of  the  smaller  farms  have  disappeared,— better  divisions  of  the 
land  have  been  made,— and  handsomer  and  more  complete  stead- 
ings built. 

Fishinff.— There  is  no  regular  fishing  establishment  connected 
with  the  parish,  however  well  situated  for  it.  The  want  of  a  proper 
harbour,  and  the  violent  surge  to  which  the  shore  is  exposed  in 
easterly  gales,  render  the  employment  of  capital  in  that  way  very 
unprofitable.    During  spring  and  summer,  one  or  two  boats  carry 
on  the  lobster  and  crab  and  skate  and  hand-line  fishing,  steadily ; 
and  occasionally  in  the  summer  evenings,  the  weavers  and  farm- 
servants  go  off  to  the  fishing  ;  but  these  latter  never  make  it  an  ar- 
ticle of  trade,  and  are  contented  with  thereby  obtaining  a  change 
of  wholesome  food  for  their  families.  A  number  of  young  persons, 
from  their  proximity  to  the  sea,  are  induced  to  pursue  that  hne  of 
life.    Few  go  into  the  army.    Many,  after  serving  an  apprentice- 
ship in  Dundee  or  Anstruther,  as  carpenters,  go  on  board  of  mer- 
chant vessels  in  that  capacity  ;  some  go  annually  to  the  whale  fish- 
ing in  the  north  seas,  and  when  at  home  during  winter  practise 
their  trade  of  weavers,  shoemakers,  &c. 

Ma7infacture.—The  only  branch  of  manufacture  carried  on  in 
the  parish  is  weaving.  The  kinds  of  cloth  beside  linen  (forborne 
use)  which  are  wrought  are  called  Osnaburgh  and  Dowlas.  There 
are  thirty-one  looms  in  constant  use.  The  number  of  yards  wov- 
en is  about  100,000  each  year.  In  the  present  depressed  state 
of  that  trade,  I  am  informed  that,  if  preparing  the  yarn  be  done  by 
the  family,  the  average  amount  of  wages,  during  last  winter,  (1831,) 
is  only  rated  at  Is.  per  day ;  while,  if  done  by  other  hands,  it  does  not 
exceed  lOd.  Weavers  (1836)  are  now  making  Is.  3d.  to  Is.  6d. 
and  good  hands  Is.  8d.  per  day. 

v.— Parochial  Economy. 
There  is  one  village  in  the  parish.  St  Andrews  and  An- 
struther are  the  two  market-towns,  where  the  gram  produce  is 
chiefly  sold  ;  the  former  distant  six  and  a-half,  and  the  latter  seven 
miles  Corn  and  potatoes  are  shipped  at  both  these  places,  and 
also  at  Crail,  the  post-town,  three  miles  distant  to  the  south-east. 

The  <^reat  coast-road  of  the  county  passes  from  south  to  north 
for  four  miles  through  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  and  through 


I 


KINGSBARNS. 


99 


the  centre  of  the  village.  A  private  runner  from  Crail  conveys 
letters  in  the  morning  to  St  Andrews,  and  on  his  return  in  the 
afternoon  takes  up  letters  for  the  south. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  situated  in  the  village, 
and  is  conveniently  placed  for  the  population.     It  was  built 
in  1631,  and  repaired,  enlarged,  and  commodiously  fitted  up 
chiefly  with  pews  for  650  sitters,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  L.  800, 
in  1811.    The  manse  was  built  in  1765,  and  enlarged  in  1815, 
and  also  in  1826.  ,  Yet  with  all  the  repairs  and  additions  which 
the  heritors  have  kindly  granted,  it  never  can  be  made,  from  its  ori- 
giiial  defective  construction,  a  commodious  residence.*  The  ground 
attached  to  the  living,  beside  the  usual  allowance  of  garden  and 
barn-yard,  is,  1.  the  glebe,  amounting  to  four  acres  Scots  measure  ; 
and  2.  the  foggage,  equal  to  five  and  a-half  acres,  both  of  which 
have  been  drained  and  enclosed  by  the  present  incumbent.  The 
former,  from  its  situation,  close  by  the  village,  would  let  at  L.  4 
per  acre,  and  the  latter,  at  the  distance  of  an  English  mile, 
might  give  L.  2,  10s.  per  acre.  The  stipend,  exclusive  of  element 
money,  is  14  chalders  and  5  bolls,  one-half  meal  and  the  otherhalf 
barley;  determined  by  a  decision  of  the  Court  of  Session  in  1812. 
About  as  much  free  teinds  remains,  and  one  farm,  belonging  to  the 
College  of  St  Andrews,  is  unvalued.    The  patronage  is  in  posses- 
sion of  the  noble  family  of  Crawford. 

There  is  no  dissenting  meeting-house  in  the  parish.  Five  fa- 
milies, amounting  to  21  souls,  are  of  the  Burgher  persuasion,  and 
attend  upon  a  place  of  worship  in  Crail.  The  heads  of  the  fami- 
ly of  Cambo  are  Episcopalians;  but  their  presence  is  very  frequent 
in  the  parish  church. 

Education. — There  is  one  parochial  and  one  private  school.  The 
schoolmaster  of  the  former  has  the  full  salary  allowed  by  law,  L.34, 4s. 
5d.  and  a  good  dwelling-house.  His  garden  is  deficient  in  the  le- 
gal amount  by  350  square  yards.  The  average  of  fees  for  the  last 
seven  years  amount  to  L.  45  per  annum.  The  branches  of  educa- 
tion taught  are,  Greek,  Latin,  French,  English  grammar,  geogra- 
phy, writing,  book-keeping,  arithmetic,  navigation,  and  land-survey- 
ing. In  the  private  school,  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  are 
taught.    The  income  of  the  teacher  is  stated  at  L.  31.    He  has 

Thp  Ji"!)  ""^"'f.^'''';  1835,  condemned  by  the  heritors,  taken  down  and  rebuilt, 
wl.  !^  I  '"1'^  "f""^^  undergoing  the  same  process  this  year.  The 

Whole,  by  an  excamb  of  ground  with  Sir  David  Erskine,  is  removed  from  its  former 
Zi.r^  ""^i  ^'^''g'l^f '''e  situation  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  placed  in  juxta- 
position with  the  glebe.    By  the  time  all  is  finished  it  will  htve  cost  fully  L.  1000. 


100 


FIFESHIRE. 


no  advantage  either  of  a  free  school,  or  of  any  fund  by  subscrip- 
tion. He  rates  the  annual  expense  of  each  scholar  at  12s.  6d.  and 
3s.  9d.  for  books,  &c.  A  Sunday  evening  school  has  been  esta- 
blished in  the  village  for  about  twelve  years.  The  number  of 
young  persons  attending  varies  considerably,  according  to  the  sea- 
son of  the  year.  The  average  number  may  be  stated  at  80,  of 
which  the  larger  proportion  is  females.  The  parish  is  well  pro- 
vided with  the  means  of  education. 

Library.— T\vexQ  is  a  library  in  the  village,  formed  by  subscrip- 
tion and  donations  in  1822.  It  is  maintained  by  the  payment  of 
a  small  annual  sum,  and  is  used  chiefly  by  the  farmers  in  the  pa- 
rish and  neighbourhood.  The  number  of  volumes  belonging  to  it 
is  500,  with  occasional  additions  by  purchase,  and  with  two  of  the 
periodical  magazines,  regularly  presented  by  Lady  Erskine. 

Savings'  Bank.— A  savings'  bank  was  estabhshed  in  the  parish 
in  1819.  For  the  first  ten  years,  it  slowly  and  steadily  advanced, 
until,  in  April  1829,  its  deposits  reached  the  maximum,  L,  448. 
Since  that  time,  they  have  gradually  decreased  until  the  present 
time,  when  they  stand  at  L.  321.  The  management  of  the  bank 
is  vested  in  the  minister,  and  the  chief  depositors  are  the  labour- 
ing classes. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  poor  are  divided  into  two 
classes,  those  who  receive  regularly,  and  those  who  are  only  occa- 
sionally supplied  ;  the  former  are  paid  on  every  fourth  Monday  ; 
the  latter  receive  allowances  once  in  the  half  year,  or  more  fre- 
quently, if  any  unusual  donations  be  made,  or  accidental  calamity 
befalls  them.'  The  payments  made  to  the  regular  poor  are  from 
Is.  to  2s.  per  week.     A  double  allowance  is  usually  given  at 
the  return  of  the  new  year,  and  of  the  sacrament.    Coal,  a  scarce 
and  dear  article,  is  bestowed  at  the  former  of  these  times,  and  is 
chiefly  provided  by  the  benevolence  of  Sir  David  Erskine  and  Mr 
Monypenny;  when  a  cart  load,  consisting  of  2  bolls  or  120  stones 
is  given  to  one,  or  divided  among  two  or  three  families,  according 
to  their  need.    None  of  them  are  allowed  to  beg.    Since  the  suc- 
cession of  the  former  gentleman  to  the  estate  of  Cambo,  a  system 
of  most  judicious  benevolence  has  been  conducted  by  Lady  Erskine. 
In  cases  of  sickness,  medical  aid  is  provided  at  the  expense  of  the 
session. 

Taking  the  average  of  the  last  seven  years  as  the  basis  of  the 
following  calculations,  the  regular  poor  amount  to  14^  per- 
sons, and  the  occasional  to  12,  and  the  expenditure  upon  both  has 


KINGSBAllNS. 


101 


been  L.  64,  IDs.  9d.,  and  upon  the  education  of  poor  children 
L.6,  Os.  9|d.  The  collections  have  been  L.24,  19s.  3d.,  and  lega- 
cies and  donations,  L.  20,  3s.  Hd.  annually.   This  last  source  of  re- 
venue has  been,  during  that  time,  much  higher  than  ordinary,  from 
bequests  paid  at  the  decease  of  three  members  of  the  noble  family 
of  Kellie,  proprietors  of  Cambo,  and  by  donations  made  at  the  sue-- 
cession  of  the  present  proprietor.    There  is  a  fund  to  the  extent 
of  L.  350  deposited  on  bond  in  the  hands  of  the  principal  heritor. 
This  sum,  so  far  as  can  be  traced,  seems  to  have  originated  in  the 
liberality  of  former  generations,  and  to  have  been  preserved  by  the 
rigid  management  of  successive  kirk-sessions.    An  annual  sum  is 
also  derived  from  the  rents  of  a  portion  of  the  seats  allowed,  by  the 
heritors,  at  the  repairing  of  the  church  in  1811,  to  be  erected  by 
the  kirk-session,  and  of  some  other  seats  not  required  by  them  for 
the  accommodation  of  themselves  and  tenantry.     This  affords 
L.  9,  18s.  Hid.  per  annum.    During  the  above  period  of  years, 
two  assessments  in  the  form  of  contributions  have  been  granted  by 
the  heritors,  amounting  to  L.  63,  lis.  5d.    The  small  number  of 
resident  heritors,  the  reluctance  to  make  voluntary  payments  by 
those  non-resident,  the  depression  of  the  value  of  all  agricultural  pro- 
duce for  many  years  past,  and  the  diminished  resources  of  the  la- 
bouring classes,  have  materially  tended  to  reduce  the  usual  means 
for  the  support  of  the  poor.   The  high  and  independent  character 
ot  the  bcottish  peasantry  is  certainly  breaking  down  in  this  part  of 
the  country.    The  other  charges  on  the  parochial  funds  for  ses- 
sion-c  erk,  precentor,  kirk-treasurer,   presbytery-clerk,  beadle, 
mortcloth  keeper,  and  incidental  expenses,  are,  on  the  average  of 
the  above  years,  L.  16,  2s.  3d.    So  that  the  total  income  from  all 
sources  during  the  above  period  has  been  L.  85,  Os.  e^d.,  and  ex 
penditure,  L.  85,  5s.  4d.  2   ,     u  ex 

mrs.-Tv^o  annual  fairs  are  held  in  the  village  in  July  and 
October.  In  the  olden  time  it  was  customary  to  lay  in  at  the 
latter  a  provision  of  butcher  meat  for  the  winter  consumption, 
which  was  called  the  Mart  At  that  time  it  was  numerously  at! 
tended  by  drovers  with  sheep  and  black-cattle.  Now  fresh  meat 
may  be  had  regularly  once  a-week  in  the  village,  and  at  all  times 
may  be  obtained  from  St  Andrews  and  Crail.  The  fairs  have  con- 
sequently dwindled  down  into  the  sale  of  a  few  household  articles 
ol  crockery,  &c. 

Alehouses -There  are  5  licensed  alehouses  in  the  parish. 

he  chief  article  of  fuel  is  coal.    The  present  distance 


102 


FIFESHIIIE. 


from  any  pit  is  about  ten  miles.    That  at  Largo  ward  is  inacces- 
sible by  the  muir  road  during  winter ;  and  from  Ely  the  expense 
of  tolls  greatly  increases  the  value.  Land  coal,  in  fact,  is  only  at- 
tained by  the  farmers  and  their  servants  having  the  cartage  free 
of  expense.    The  general  supply  is  by  sea,  brought  in  dunng 
summer,  and  delivered  at  the  shore.  A  small  quantity  of  English 
coal  is  also  brought  in  from  Newcastle.    The  larger  quantity  of 
the  article  used  comes  down  the  Frith  from  Charleston,  &c.  Dysart 
Coal  is  one  of  the  heaviest  articles  of  family  consumption  in  this 
quarter.    The  summer  price  of  the  smaller  kind,  called  chews,  is 
from  5s.  to  6s.  per  boll  of  60  stones,  and  of  great  coal  from  6s.  to 
7s.    In  winter  the  price  is  heightened  considerably.    Were  the 
road  which  passes  through  the  parish  from  east  to  west,  properly 
made  through  the  Kingsmuir  to  the  coal  districts,  the  distance  and 
conveyance  would  be  much  reduced.    There  is  happily  at  pre- 
sent a  prospect  of  the  coal  on  the  Kingsmuir  itself  being  wrought. 
Were  this  the  case,  I  know  not  anything  that  would  more  essen- 
tially contribute  to  the  comfort  of  the  lower  orders  of  the  people. 

Revised  April  1836. 


PARISH  OF  KING'S  KETTLE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  PETER  BARCLAY,  D.  D.  MINISTER. 


I._T0P0GRAPHY  AND  NATURAL  HiSTORY. 

Name.—l^  the  times  of  Episcopacy,  as  appears  from  old  charters, 
the  name  of  this  parish  was  Losresk  or  Lathrisk.  *  The  origin  of  the 
name  is  uncertain.    In  old  writings,  it  is  called  Catul  or  Katel. 

The  low  grounds  upon  the  Eden,  a  small  stream  which  bounds  the 
parish  on  the  north,  are  supposed  to  have  been  the  King's  cattle- 
walk,  or  pasture  ground,— where  also  is  the  King's  goose-dub.  And 
about  half  a  century  ago,  there  was  near  the  village,  on  the  land  of 

•  The  church  then  stood  at  Lathrisk,  near  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  and  had  as 
aupendages  two  other  places  of  worship,  one  at  Chapel  Katel,  about  the  centre  ot 
the  parish,  another  at  Clatto,  in  the  east  end  of  the  parish.  About  the  year  lOdO, 
the  parish  church,  with  the  manse  and  glebe,  was  removed  and  brought  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Kettle,  and  from  that  time  the  village  seems  to  have  given  name  to  the  pa- 


rish. 

4 


I 


KETTLE. 


03 


Blackdikes,  the  ruin  of  a  hut,  which  was  reported  to  have  been  the 
house  of  the  King's  herdsman.  It  is  perfectly  known,  that  a  consi- 
derable part  of  the  lands  of  the  parish  was  once  the  property  of  the 
Crown,  by  the  forfeiture  of  the  Duke  of  Albany,  whose  palace  was 
at  Falkland ;  and  was  afterwards  feued  out  in  runrig,  in  eight  divi- 
sions, at  the  rents  then  paid.  These  divisions  are  fully  recogniz- 
ed at  this  day,  and  the  rents  are  still  paid  to  the  King  under 
the  name  of  Crown  rents.  In  1695,  the  runrig  division,  with  the 
unanimous  consent  of  the  parties  concerned,  was  put  an  end  to, 
and  each  proprietor's  land  was^  placed  by  itself. 

Boundaries—Extent— Keit\e  is  bounded  by  Falkland  on  the 
west;  by  Markinch,  Kennoway,  and  Scoonie  or  Leven,  on  the 
south;  by  Ceres  and  Cults  on  the  east;  and  by  Collessie  and  Auch- 
termuchty  on  the  north.  The  parish  is  of  an  irregular  oblong  fi- 
gure, about  Smiles  broad  where  broadest,  but  sharpening  very  much 
to  the  east  and  west  ends,  and  about  8  miles  in  length.  It  may  con- 
tain something  more  than  9  square  miles,  or  5100  Scots,  or  6375 
imperial  acres.  The  great  thoroughfare  road  between  the  Friths 
of  Tay  and  Forth,  by  Cupar,  runs  four  miles  through  the  parish 
The  road  from  New  Inn  by  Melville  gate  and  Letham  to  Dundee 
runs  about  one  mile  through  the  parish.  "  ' 

Soil,  c^-c— The  most  productive  parts  of  the  parish  are  those  in 
the  course  of  that  strath,  which  extends  from  near  Kinross  to  the 
Guard  Bridge,  near  St  Andrews,-in  which  the  surface  isffenerallv 
level  and  water-fed.  Yet  even  here  the  soil  is  extremely  variable- 
sometimes  there  are  excellent  carse  lands,-but  at  a  small  distance 
from  these  are  extensive  beds  of  sand,  with  a  mossy  surface,  on  a 
strong  stiff  clay,-or  again  a  light  and  friable  mould.  On  the  rising 
grounds  which  lie  in  the  direction  of  the  parish,  from  the  Lomond 
hil  s,  eastward  and  backward  toward  the  south,  there  are  excellent 
oils  sometimes  strong  and  clayey,  sometimes  light  and  friable.  But 
the  cl^ate,  as  the  ground  rises,  is  less  genial.    This  is  manifested 
Evet  thTr  '""5^^°"-;"  g--th,  and  coming  later  to  maturity. 
Even  the  highest  parts  of  the  parish  are  covered  with  verdure,  and 
afford,  in  summer,  excellent  pasture  for  all  sorts  of  cattle.    It  may 
be  lemarked,  that  for  upwards  of  fifty  years  (excepting  1826)  the 

reel  sadly  the  effects,  if  it  be  not  then  abundant. 

rhe  chmate,  for  the  most  part,  is  dry  and  healthy,  and  not  sub- 
ject to  any  local  diseases.  The  ague  is  reported  to  have  prevailed- 


104 


FIFESHIHE. 


much  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  parish,  while  it  was  swampy  and 
often  covered  with  stagnant  water,  from  the  overflowings  of  the 
Eden.  But  for  the  last  fifty  or  sixty  years,  this  disease  has  wholly 
disappeared,  owing  probably  to  the  many  drains  which  have  been 
made  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  parishes.  The  lower  people 
are  now  peculiarly  liable  to  dropsical  swellings  in  their  limbs,  owmg, 
perhaps,  to  the  poverty  of  their  living. 

Hydrography.— Tho  Eden,  the  stream  of  which  in  summer  is 
scarcely  sufficient  to  turn  a  corn-mill,  abounds  with  excellent  red 
and  white  trout,  and  some  pike  and  eels.    As  the  course  of  the 
Eden  is  down  a  low  strath,  bordered  with  a  range  of  hills  on  both 
sides  at  no  great  distance,  as  it  has  very  little  fall  in  its  course, 
and  was  extremely  winding  and  serpentine,  it  frequently  overflowed 
its  banks,  and  rendered  the  crops  in  its  haughs  very  precarious. 
To  remedy  this  evil,  a  plan  was  projected  by  Mr  Cunniughame, 
the  then  proprietor  of  Lathrisk,  about  the  year  1768,  for  making 
a  cut  in  nearly  a  straight  line,  so  deep  and  so  wide  as  to  confine 
the  water,  and  at  the  same  time  give  it  all  the  declivity  of  which 
the  nature  of  the  ground  would  admit.    But  as  the  heritors  on  the 
diff-erent  sides  of  the  stream  could  not  agree,  this  plan  could  not 
be  executed  in  his  time.    About  the  year  1783,  the  late  Mr  John- 
stone having  purchased  the  estate  of  Lathrisk,  and  become  pro- 
prietor of  both  sides  of  the  stream  for  upwards  of  two  miles,  exe- 
cuted the  cut  on  an  enlarged  scale.    A  spacious  canal  was  opened 
for  the  water  along  his  property,  about  15  feet  wide  at  bottom, 
and  secured  on  the  sides  by  banks  rising  backwards  to  not  less 
than  70  feet  in  width  at  top,  and  fenced  behind  with  hedges  and 
hedge-rows,  which  both  confined  the  water  and  ornamented  the 
property;  and  had  the  cut  been  carried  on  from  where  he  ended, 
in  the  same  capacious  manner,  and  humouring  the  declivity  of  the 
ground,  it  would  in  all  probability  have  answered  the  purpose  in- 
tended,-except  where,  by  the  rising  of  the  Eden,  the  reflux  of 
water  up  ditches,  and  up  the  channels  of  the  streamlets  which  en- 
tered the  Eden  with  very  little  declivity,  caused  a  very  temporary 
and  scanty  inundation  over  their  banks.     But  it  was  otherwise  : 
some  heritors  next  to  him  did  nothing.    Hence  in  floods  the  water 
is  dammed  back  at  that  part,  and  overspreads  the  whole  meadows 
or  corn  lands  around.    And  the  heritors  farther  down  who  en- 
tered into  the  idea  could  not  at  once  collect  the  scattered  waters 
into  one  channel;  and,  moreover,  by  accommodating  the  direction 
of  the  stream  to  the  convenience  of  the  diff-erent  heritors  with 


KETTLE. 


105 


whose  properties  it  interfered  on  both  sides,  they  lost  the  advan- 
tage of  the  natural  declivity  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  In 
1829,  the  grounds  about  Kettle  were  four  times  deeply  flooded. 
The  late  Mr  Johnstone  also  built  an  elegant  house  upon  the  estate ; 
and  following  up  or  completing  the  plans  of  his  predecessor,  (Mr 
Cunninghame,)  subdivided  most  of  his  farms  with  ditch  and  hedge, 
adorned  them  with  belts  and  clumps  of  planting,  and  set  the  ex- 
ample to  this  part  of  Fife,  of  building  commodious  farm-houses 
and  steadings  to  his  tenants  ;  all  which  gave  a  vivacity  and  beauty 
to  this  part  of  the  country. 

Mineralogy. — The  rocks  in  the  parish  belong,  chiefly,  to  the  coal 
formation.    On  various  parts  of  Burnturk,  there  are  quarries  of 
sandstone  (freestone.)    On  one  of  these,  on  the  north-east  foot 
of  Bauden  Hill,  when  the  stratum  of  covering  earth  is  removed, 
we  observe  on  the  surface  of  the  rock,  numerous  appearances  of  ve- 
getable remains  apparently  branches  of  trees  of  various  diameters, 
curiously  ramified  and  interwoven,  as  of  trees  fallen,  crushed,  and 
petrified.    A  large  piece  of  petrified  wood  and  a  petrified  horn 
were  also  found.    We  have  no  marble  or  slate  in  the  parish,  but 
some  sandstone  (freestone)  of  indifferent  quality.  We  have  also  some 
quarries  of  the  finest  trap  whinstone,  which  are  capable  of  being  fine- 
ly dressed  and  squared,  and  serve  for  the  building  of  houses  and  dikes 
to  any  extent.    Of  these,  one  quarry,  instead  of  lying  in  horizon- 
tal beds,  rises  perpendicularly  in  the  form  of  a  vein  or  dike,  and 
presents  in  the  face  of  the  quarry  the  appearance  of  numberless 
five-sided  columns,  which,  on  being  blown  down  with  gunpowder, 
produce  naturally  excellent  gate  pillars,  from  five  to  seven  feet  long, 
without  requiring  a  single  stroke  of  the  hammer  to  dress  them. 
Another  of  these  quarries,  apparently  of  trap  tuflfa,  is  famed  for  pro- 
ducing excellent  soles  for  ovens,  by  reason  of  its  peculiar  quality, 
and  resisting  the  action  of  fire.    Limestone  of  the  best  quality 
]s  also  abundant  in  the  parish.    The  quarry  at  Forthar,  belong- 
ing to  General  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  was  analyzed  sometime  ago, 
and  found  to  contain  98  parts  in  100  of  pure  lime.  It  is  wrought  by 
the  proprietor;  and  in  tirring,  quarrying,  mining,  breaking,  and 
fillmg  the  draw  and  sowkilns,  &c.  gives  employment  through  the 
whole  year  to  a  great  number  of  men.    The  coals  with  which  the 
hme  IS  burnt  are  brought  from  the  proprietor's  own  coal  pits  at 
Balbirnie,  and  the  lime  is  sold  at  3s.  the  Linlithgow  boll.  Besides 
what  is  consumed  in  the  neighbourhood,. great  quantities  are  driven 
to  Newburgh  port  for  Dundee,  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  other  parts 
of  Perthshire,— which  also  furnishes  employment  for  a  number  of 


106 


FIFESHIUE. 


carters.  Coals  also  used  to  be  dug  up  in  Burnturk  ;  but  these  are 
now  mostly  given  up,  excepting  a  blind  coal,  which  is  used  for 
burning  lime,  and  is  mostly  carted  off  to  Pitlessie  hme-hills.  Some 
ironstone  also  is  found  in  the  parish. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Antiquities. — Under  this  head,  the  writer  has  only  to  specify  what 
he  described  in  his  former  Account.  1.  The  two  eminences  on 
Bauden  Hill  and  Downfield  Hill,  supposed  to  be  the  ruins  of  circum- 
vallations.  2.  The  eight  barrows,  three  of  which  are  known  by  the 
names  of  Pundler's  Know  and  Lowrie's  Know,  in  Forthar  ground,  and 
Lackerstone,  in  Kettle  ground.  There  is  a  tradition  about  the  se- 
cond, that  when  dissensions  arose  between  families  in  different  parts 
of  the  country,  they  met  there  to  decide  their  contention  by  arms, 
and  those  who  fell  were  buried  in  the  tumulus.  3.  The  family  of 
Seatons,  who  occupied  the  lands  of  Clatto,  in  the  east  end  of  the  pa- 
rish, and  of  whose  robberies  and  murders  there  are  many  traditional 
stories.  The  assailants  are  said  to  have  rushed  out  from  Clatto 
Den  on  the  heedless  passengers,  and  dragged  them  into  the  cavern. 

III. — Population. 
The  population  of  the  parish  by  the  census  of  1831,  is  2071, 
of  which  there  are  in  the  villages  of 


Males. 

Females. 

Kettle, 

244 

283 

Of  Holekettle  Burnside, 

103 

99 

Of  Bankton  Park, 

65 

81 

Of  Balmalcom, 

57 

58 

Of  Coalton, 

32 

39 

495 

530   Total,  1025 

The  average  number  of  births  for  seven  years,  52,  and  the  average  of  deaths,  41. 
Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  .  .  ,  .  .  462 

•  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,        ...  .81 

in  trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,  229 

Heritors  and  Farmers. — We  have  16  heritors  whose  yearly 
rents  ai-e  above  L.  50  a-year ;  of  whom  only  six  reside  in  the  parish. 
The  farmers  are  comfortably  accommodated  with  excellent  houses, 
covered  with  slate  and  rigged  with  lead,  and  have  good  accommo- 
dations for  their  cattle,  dairy,  dung-courts,  and  shades  for  their 
carts,  and  other  farm  gear,  and  are  all  most  respectable  in  their 
line. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — This  is  properly  a  corn  parish,  and  does  not  af- 
ford much  pasture,  and  there  is  only  one  flock  of  sheep.    In  the 
parish  are,  3  farms  of  4  ploughs  ;  10  of  3  ploughs ;  12  of  2  ploughs; 
in  all  76  ploughs;  and  about  10  pendicles,  ( jn-ccdiola, ) — some  of 


KETTLE, 


107 


these  pendicles  holding  of  the  proprietors,  and  some  of  the  larger 
farmers.  The  occupiers  of  these  pendicles  not  having  sufficient 
work,  find  employment  for  their  spare  time  in  drawing  coals,  lime, 
or  metals  for  the  roads. 

Commons. — These  have  all  been  divided  and  subjected  to  the 
plough,  or  planted  with  the  various  kinds  of  trees  for  which  they 
were  considered  to  be  best  adapted.  And  they  now,  instead  of 
presenting  to  the  eye  a  naked  and  barren  landscape,  enliven  with 
verdure  our  higher  grounds.  At  Dovan,  Milldeans,  Burnturk 
Common,  Chapel,  Forthar,  and  Lathrisk,  there  may  be  above  200 
acres  under  plantations ;  but  most  of  these  are  hid  from  passen- 
gers on  the  great  thoroughfare  road,  by  the  rising  of  the  ground 
which  intervenes. 

Rent  of  Land.— The  rent  of  land  is  from  L.  1,  10s.  to  L.  2,  15s. 
peracreonthe  low  grounds;  and  from  13s.  to  L.  1, 12s.  onthe  higher. 

Wages.— The  servants  are  generally,  one  man  to  each  pair  of 
horses,— an  orroio  man,  as  he  is  called,  for  looking  after  the  cattle 
and  for  incidental  work,— and  two  women ;  and  their  wages  are,  for 
married  men,  from  L.  8  to  L.  10  in  money,  with  a  house  and  yard  ; 
61  bolls  oatmeal;  1  Scotch  pint  of  sweet  milk  daily;  their  coals 
driven ;  and  about  24  falls  of  ground  for  potatoes.  If  any  of  them 
have  a  cow,  or  the  milk  of  a  cow,  they  have  from  L.  3  to  L.  4  less 
of  money.  For  unmarried  men,  from  L.  8,  10s.  to  L.  10,  10s. 
and  their  victuals  in  the  house;  or  if  they  live  in  a  bothie,  or  out- 
house, they  have  6^  bolls  oatmeal  in  the  year,  and  1  Scotch  pint 
of  sweet  milk  daily.  The  wages  of  women  servants'are  from  L.  5 
to  L.  6  a-year.  Most  of  the  greater  farmers  have  cottagers,  whom 
they  call  out  for  hire  when  their  work  requires  additional  hands  • 
and  they  and  others  are  supplied  by  any  other  hands  they  want,' 
from  the  villages.  The  wages  of  these  day-labourers  are,  for  men, 
ls.^d.,  to  Is.  6d  per  day;  for  women,  8d.,  without  victuals. 

Husbandr7/.~There  is,  as  is  said  above,  very  little  ground  let  for 
pasture  in  the  parish,  except  some  parks  at  Beddies'  Craigs,  which 
when  let  for  aseason,  costfrom  12s.  to  18s.  per  acre.  Theotherpas- 
ture  IS  m  the  course  of  rotation,  and  is  all  eat  up  by  the  farm  stock. 
Wence  the  stock  m  summer  must  always  be  measured  by  the  provi- 
sion lor  It,  unless  grass  parks  in  the  neighbourhood  be  taken  for  them, 
which  IS  often  done  for  the  rearing  up  of  young  stock.  But  in  au- 
tumn, a  great  number  of  cattle  is  bought  in  to  be  fed  on  turnip 
and  potatoes  during  winter,  and  sold  off  to  fleshers  when  fattened. 
Ihe  usual  rotation  is,  after  well-dunged  potatoes,  to  sow  down 


108 


FIFESIIIUE. 


with  grass  seeds  among  wheat,  and  after  turnip  among  barley  ;  to 
take  one  crop  of  hay,  and  leave  it  next  year  for  pasture ;  then  break 
it  up  again  for  oats.  Thus  a  five  years'  rotation,  three  in  crop  and 
two  in  grass,  is  generally  observed.  But  sometimes,  with  the 
stronger  lands  of  clay  or  loam,  a  summer  fallow  is  substituted  for 
the  green  crop ;  but  by  far  the  greater  part  is  sown  with  potatoes, 
which  have  for  some  years  been  cultivated  to  a  great  extent,  not 
only  for  home  consumption,  but  for  the  London  market;  and  some- 
times, if  a  half  dunging  can  be  had  for  the  lands,  barley  is  sown 
after  wheat,  in  soils  that  will  bear  it. 

More  than  one-half  of  the  parish  is  divided  and  enclosed  with 
stone  and  lime  dikes  along  the  road  sides,  and  elsewhere  with  dry- 
stone  dikes,  or  ditch  and  hedge.  Draining  is  also  carried  on  to  a 
great  extent,  of  late  ;  for  which  nature,  in  many  places,  has  given 
great  facility  by  the  sloping  of  the  ground.  The  quantities  of  ma- 
nure made  now  in  the  farmers'  straw  yards  would  completely  asto- 
nish a  farmer,  forty  or  fifty  years  ago.  The  parish  produces  much 
more  grain,  (and  generally  of  the  best  quality,)  than  is  sufficient  for 
its  own  consumption,  and,  of  course,  sends  the  overplus  to  market. 
On  the  whole,  farming  seems  to  be  as  far  advanced  here,  both  in 
system  and  practice,  the  soil  and  climate  considered,  as  anywhere 
else  in  Scotland.  At  an  average,  there  may  be  yearly  in  summer, 
fallow,  potatoes,  and  in  drilled  peas  and  beans,  340  acres;  in  tur- 
nip, 180  do. ;  in  wheat,  250  do. ;  in  barley,  360  do. ;  in  oats,  900  do. 
.  Produce.— The  average  value  of  raw  produce  yearly  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows : 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  -  ^'l^^^S, 

Potatoes,  13000  bolls  at  5s.    -  -  -  -  "  " 

Turnips,  180  Scotch  acres  at  L.  6,  lOs.  -  -  -  "        • ' 'J^ 

Hay,  800  Scotch  acres  at  L.  5."         -  -  ■  -  " 

Pasture,  1100  acres  at  L.  2,  2200 

Gardens,  

Thinnings  of  Plantations,  ------  •JW 

Mines: 

Burnturk  coal,  -  -  -  -  -        l^.  lo 

Do .  freestone  quarry,  -  -  -  -  _ 

Porthar  lime  quarries,  being  the  product  of  12000  bolls  lime- 
shells,  sold  at  3s.  per  boll  Linlithgow  measure,  -  1800 
Produce  of  building  and  drain  stones,  and  lime  redd  sold,  20 


1900 


L.  20,676 


Manufactures. — There  are  378  hand-looms  in  the  parish,  nine- 
tenths  of  which  are  employed  in  weaving  a  kind  of  linen  called  Dow- 
las, and  one-tenth  in  weaving  window-blinds.  The  average  value 
of  linen  per  loom  in  the  year  is  about  L.51  ;  and  the  average  wages 


KETTLE. 


109 


in  the  week  is  about  4s.  6d.    A  moderately  steady  hand  will  make 
5s.  8d.  a-week,  and  the  value  of  his  work  will  be  L.  72  ;  a  few  of  the 
best  hands  will  receive  considerably  more.    Within  these  three  or 
four  years,  a  good  deal  of  work  has  come  into  the  parish  from  New- 
burgh,  a  port  on  the  Frith  of  Tay ;  and  from  other  places,  a  good 
deal  of  work  also  goes  out  from  this  to  other  parishes,  but  not  so 
much  as  comes  into  it ;  and  the  increase  of  work  within  the  last 
120  years  is  reckoned  about  30  per  cent.    Many  youno-  women  as 
well  as  men  employ  themselves  on  the  loom.    Elder  women  and 
widows  are  generally  employed  in  winding  pirns;  but  for  these  there 
is  a  great  want  of  employment  since  the  lint-wheel  failed  them.  We 
have  smiths,  carpenters,  wrights,  and  masons,  sufficient  for  the  pa- 
rish, and  for  helping  our  neighbours,  and  one  medical  gentleman. 
V. — Parochial  Economy. 
-The  village  of  Kettle  is  situated  on  the  flat  of  Stratheden,  ra- 
ther low,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Eden,  the  floods  of  which  reach 
to  the  skirts  of  the  village.    Its  appendages,  Burnside  and  Bank- 
ton  Park,  which  are  entirely  new  feu-buildings,  lie,  the  former  a 
little  to  the  south-west,  the  latter  a  little  to  the  north-west  of  the 
village.    Balmalcom  village  lies  about  half-a  mile  to  the  south- 
east, and  Coalton  of  Burnturk  about  a  mile  south-east  of  Bal- 
malcom, on  the  higher  grounds. 

Provisions  and  Market— From  the  vicinity  of  the  metropolis, 
and  a  great  many  coast  towns,  provisions  are  commonly  kept  at 
the  Edinburgh  prices.  At  present  we  have  neither  flesher,  baker 
brewer,  writer,  stipendiary  constable,  nor  exciseman  in  the  parish' 
With  butcher-meat  we  are  supplied  from  Cupar,  six  miles  distant, 
or  from  Freuchie,  in  the  parish  of  Falkland,  a  mile  and  a-half 
distant.  Carts  every  day  come  from  Cupar  with  excellent  bread 
Beer  is  brought  from  Freuchie  or  Lethem,  in  the  parish  of  Moni- 
mail. 

Ecclesiastical  State.~The  church  has  been  rebuilt  within  the.e 
two  years;  it  is  of  Gothic  architecture,  with  an  elegant  tower  and 
c  ock.  Including  the  purchase  of  the  ground  for  a  new  site  and 
other  contingencies,  it  cost  about  L.  3000,  and  holds  nearly  1200 
sitters.  The  manse  and  garden  are  in  good  order,  A  good  and 
substantial  manse  was  built  in  1792,  and  a  substantial  wall  was 
put  round  the  garden  in  1827.  The  living  by  the  last  decreet 
of  modification  m  1823  is  15  chalders  of  victual,  half  meal  and 
half  barley,  at  the  highest  fiar  prices;  but  in  Fife  we  have  only 
one  fiar  for  each  kind  of  grain;  and  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion 


no 


FIFESHIRE. 


elements.  The  glebe,  though  of  legal  measure,  is  one  of  the  poor- 
est, and  would  not  let  to  a  tenant  for  L.  3  a-year. 

The  Dissenters  in  the  parish  amount  to  about  one-third  of  the 
whole  population. 

Educaiion.— The  school  and  schoolmaster's  house  have  been 
lately  rebuilt.  They  are  capacious  and  airy  buildings,  and  finish- 
ed in  a  superior  style.  The  schoolmaster's  salary  is  the  maximum, 
and,  with  the  session-clerkship  and  school  fees,  which  are  very 
low,  may  amount  to  between  L.  60  and  L.  70  a  year.  Every  one 
without  exception  learns  to  read. 

Poo,.._The  poor  on  the  roll  for  monthly  supply  are  30  in  num- 
ber at  present,— besides  others  who  need  occasional  supplies.  Our 
collections  at  the  church  are  only  about  L.  20  or  L.  21  a-year,  and 
the  heritors  contribute  about  L.  100. 

Inns,  Sfc.—ln  the  parish  we  have  10  houses  licensed  to  retail  ex- 
ciseable  spirits,  &c.— 5  along  the  thoroughfare  road,  4  in  the  village 
of  Kettle,  and  1  in  the  Coalton  of  Burnturk. 

Fuel— We  are  mostly  supplied  with  coal  from  Balbirme,  about 
four  miles  distant,  at  Is.  3d.  a  load,  counted  18  stone;  but  we  have 
Balgonie,  Dysart,  and  Clunie  within  our  reach,  at  all  which  coal- 
hills  the  load  is  heavier,  and  the  price  less. 

March  1836. 


PARISH  OF  LESLIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JAMES  NICOL,  MINISTER. 


I.— Topography  and  Natural  History. 
iVawze.— In  the  former  Statistical  Account  of  this  parish,  it  is 
stated  that  the  original  name  of  the  parish  was  Fetkill ;  but  that, 
when  the  Earls  of  Rothes,  whose  name  is  Leslie,  became  the  pro- 
prietors, they  gave  their  own  name  to  their  possessions  here,  and 
the  whole  parish  came  at  last  to  be  known  by  the  same  appella- 


tion 


Extent,  Bou7idaries.— The  extent  of  the  parish  may  be  between 
4  and  5  miles  in  length,  and  from  3  to  4  in  breadth.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  west  by  Portmoak;  on  the  north  by  Falkland;  on  the 
east  by  Markmch  ;  on  the  south  by  Kinglassie,— the  river  Leven 
bemg  the  boundary  between  LesHe  and  Kinglassie.  The  figure 
of  the  parish  is  that  of  a  bow,  the  Leven  being  the  string  of  it 

Topographical  Appearances.~The  greater  part  of  the  parish  is 
now  good,  and  the  eastern  part  most  excellent  arable  land ;  the 
two  most  eastern  farms,  viz.  Pitcairn  and  Cadam,  having,  for  some 
years  past,  in  general  had  the  first  sheaves  of  barley  in  Fife.  The 

<vL^!  l""^^^^"  conjectured  that  the  name  is  derived  from  the  Gaelic  words  Lis  siirni 
teie^ThtV-  «P°'>  -'Id  Leven,  the  name  of  the  riverhence 

Every  name  of  any  standinn-  in  thp  naikl,      r,„r        j   ^    station  oi  the  King, 
with  royalty,  such^as  Strath'^endry  s  St  att-an^f  he  Kin."'7  T'^'"^'^ 
quhonvie  is  Bal-nuhom-ri   the  Kino^L  P       ^'  „       Park  or  Forest.  Bal- 

town.  Ingri  is  Eglisr.an  ri  Ee  K  nl's  Snn  1  M  ^^'f'll^^'^  Bal-shieliie,  corn 
blishment  now  reLins   ex  ept  tS  fame  and  ih.  f  °      ''S'^  ^digious  esta- 

now  standing  in  the  dike  on  ?he  nnrth^^  e  lu  ^°'\"*/°'-  baptism  or  holy  water, 
farm  steadin|  where  formel  stood  Ee  .rn"  'rf'  ™,?^diately  below  the  old 
the  cross  of  Ingri  to  thTs  day  Jhew  ,       T    r  ^  "^''ives, 

ble  resort,  packmen  were  alwavs  fonnrnn  f  "^^^  ^  P'"''^      '^y^^  no- 

the  protection  of  sucrassembhcs     jtZ^P'r  "T'^'"'  ''"'"^  '^''<^'  ""der 

the  head  .luarters  of  tre  p"ckm;n-s  Soclf  >  y^^''' 

vices  Brothered,  and  talS,  i^o  S^^^  ^"  annual  meeting  was  held,  no- 
mains  of  ancient  games  4re  p"'J^'^^^^  ""d  footraces;  the  last  re- 
tation  of  their  ancient  bmers  "  ^     ^        packmen,  on  horseback,  in  humble  imi- 


112 


PIFESHIRE. 


undulations  of  the  land  from  the  Lomond  Hills  down  to  the  ri- 
ver Leven,  and  intersected  by  two  streams,  one  flowing  from  the 
north  to  the  south,  the  other  smaller  stream,  the  Cambie,  from  the 
west,  both  falling  into  the  Leven,  a  short  way  below  Leslie  House 
—give  a  pleasing  variety  to  the  landscape.  With  very  little 
exception  the  whole  lands  in  the  parish  are  arable.  The  fields  are 
well  divided  either  by  hedges  or  substantial  stone  dikes.  The 
woods  of  Leslie  House  are  remarkably  fine ;  indeed,  it  may  be 
safely  said,  that  no  place  in  Scotland  surpasses  them,  consisting  of 
oak,  beech,  and  ash,  some  of  a  very  large  growth.  The  admirer 
of  rural  variety  will  be  entertained  here  with  every  circumstance  of 
beauty,  which  he  can  expect  from  diversified  nature,  hill  and  val- 
ley, wood  and  water. 

Meteorology.— l^r\Aev'  this  head,  it  may  be  only  observed,  that 
there  has  not  been  the  shock  of  an  earthquake  within  many  hun- 
dred miles  of  this  parish  since  the  year  1815,  ^but  what  was  indi- 
cated by  the  waters  of  the  Leven.  On  the  6th  January  of  that 
year,  the  loch  was  heaved  up  in  a  peculiar  manner.  All  the  news- 
papers were  carefully  examined  to  see  in  what  part  of  the  country 
it  had  taken  place ;  but  no  account  appeared  for  many  months  till 
the  ice  broke  up,  and  the  first  arrivals  from  Bergen,  Norway,  brought 
accounts  of  a  shock  that  had  taken  place  on  that  very  day  at  Ber- 
gen.   Meteoric  stones  have  fallen  in  this  neighbourhood. 

The  climate  is  particularly  salubrious.  The  village  stands  on 
table-land,  which  rises  from  the  Leven  on  the  south ;  there  is,  there- 
fore, a  free  ventilation,  and  the  water  carried  off" ;  so  that,  with  the 
slightest  attention  paid  to  cleanliness,  there  cannot  be  a  more 
healthy  place.  Certainly  the  most  prevalent  complaint  is  rheu- 
matism among  the  old,  which  may  be  accounted  for  by  the  fact, 
that  when  bleaching  was  first  introduced  into  this  neighbourhood, 
the  women  stood  in  the  cold  water  to  wash  the  yarn.  This  is  now 
obviated  by  the  improved  methods  of  carrying  on  the  bleaching 

operations.  i  •  u  • 

Hydrographrj.—ThQ  only  river  of  note  is  the  Leven,  which  is 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish.  It  issues  from  Loch  Leven, 
and,  after  a  run  of  about  twelve  miles,  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  town 
of  Leven.  The  scenery  is  particularly  beautiful  as  it  passes  through 
the  pohcy  of  the  Earl  of  Rothes.  Although  of  so  short  a  course, 
the  water  is  particularly  valuable,  there  being  forty-three  or  forty- 
five  public  works  upon  it,  the  falls  valued  at  L.  1 106,  4s.  The 
water  being  soft  is  well  adapted  to  bleachfields. 


LESLIE 


113 


Mineralogy. — There  are  in  the  parisli  quarries  of  trap  or  whin- 
stone,  but  very  hard,  and  the  working  of  them  expensive;  although, 
since  building  has  so  mlich  increased,  it  is  wrought  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  There  are  also  some  coal  mines  and  quarries  of  lime- 
stone. The  coal  is  in  the  eastmost  part  of  the  parish,  but  is  not 
wrought  to  any  great  extent.  The  direction  of  the  strata  is  from 
east  to  west. 

Alluvial  deposits  covering  whinstone,  for  the  most  part  gravel 
and  sand,  to  a  great  depth,  run  along  the  south  side  of  the  parish, 
— beginning  at  the  west  point  at  Auchmuir  Bridge,  and  extending 
nearly  the  whole  lengtli.  The  village  of  LesHe  stands  upon  a  ridge 
of  gravel  and  sand,  rising  about  100  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river 
Leven.  Many  of  the  ridges  of  gravel  and  sand  that  are  found  on  the 
south  part  of  the  parish  do  not  seem  to  have  been  accumulated  all 
at  once ;  for  in  many  of  these  there  are  alternate  strata  of  very  fine 
sand  and  brown  loam.  In  a  pit  that  was  opened  for  sand  for  build- 
ing the  new  house  of  Strathendry,  there  were  found  in  the  year  1826 
some  pieces  of  wood  imbedded  in  the  sand  nearly  twenty  feet  from 
the  present  surface,  but  in  such  a  state  of  decomposition,  that  the 
species  to  which  it  belonged  could  not  be  recognized. 

Zoology.— Bdoxe  the  erection  of  bleachfields,  Leven  was  the  best 
trouting  stream  in  the  county.     Salmon  were  taken  in  the  loch. 
Trouts  of  a  very  large  size,  and  of  the  highest  flavour,  were  taken 
in  the  carses.    They  were  of  the  weight  of  8,  10,  12,  14,  and  16 
lbs.  each.    A  pike  was  rarely  taken  in  one  of  the  old  turns  of  the 
river,  which  measured  4  feet  2  inches  long,  weighing  56  lbs.  Avoir- 
dupois.    Eels  used  to  be  caught  in  great  quantities  in  their  pas- 
sage from  Loch  Leven  to  the  sea.     Lideed,  on  this  account,  the 
lands  of  Strathendry,  were  before  the  Reformation,  subject  to  an 
annual  tax  of  some  thousand  eels  to  the  Abbey  of  Inchcolm.  The 
eel  fry  come  up  in  millions  in  May  and  June,  and  when  full-grown 
in  the  loch,  marshes,  &c.  they  run  to  the  sea  in  autumn,  especial- 
ly about  Michaelmas. 

Botany.— The  plantations  of  Leslie  House  are  remarkably  fine 
The  spec.es  that  thrive  best  seem  to  be  ash,  elm,  common  beech, 
oak  and  the  silver-fir.  The  larch  does  not  thrive  so  well ;  it  grows 
Ireely  for  a  time,  but  soon  rots  at  the  heart.  On  the  estate  of 
btrathendry,  there  is  but  very  little  old  wood.  The  ash,  elm,  and 
sycamore,  are  the  kinds  that  thrive  best.  The  common  larch  also 
grows  to  a  large  size,  and  keeps  free  from  heart  rot.  The  beech 
avenue  at  Leslie  House  is  well  worthy  of  attention  ;  the  trees  are 

FIFE 


114 


FIFESHIRE. 


about  200  years  old,  several  of  them  measuring  16  feet  8  inches, 
at  4  feet  from  the  ground.  * 

11. — Civil  History. 
The  village  being  a  burgh  of  barony,  holding  under  the  Earls  of 
Rothes,  there  are  two  bailies  and  sixteen  councillors.   The  records 
go  back  for  nearly  300  years ;  but  there  is  nothing  generally  inte- 
resting in  them. 

The  Earl  of  Rothes,  Robert  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Strathendry,  and 
General  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  have  many  exact  maps  of  their  va- 
rious properties  in  the  parish ;  and  by  comparing  these  together,  a 
very  near  approximation  may  be  made  of  the  extent  of  arable,  pasture, 
and  other  land,  and  also  of  the  number  of  acres  under  plantation. 

Ancient  Documents— Pictures.— In  the  depositories  of  the  Earl 
of  Rothes,  there  are  a  great  number  of  letters  and  ancient  docu- 
ments, relating  not  only  to  the  family  history  and  afifairs,  but  it  is 
believed  that  many  would  be  found  highly  interesting  in  a  public 
point  of  view,— many  of  tliat  noble  family  having  acted  a  very  con- 
spicuous part  in  the  history  of  their  country.   There  is  a  very  in- 
teresting account  given  of  the  fifth  Earl  of  Rothes,  in  a  work  edited 
by  James  Nairne,  Esq.  W.  S.  as  one  of  the  members  of  the  Banna- 
tyne  Club,  entitled  "  a  Relation  of  the  Proceedings  concerning 
the  Affairs  of  the  Kirk  of  Scotland.    From  August  1637  to  July 
1638,  by  John  Earl  of  Rothes."    In  Leslie  House  there  are  also 
several  valuable  pictures,— the  fifth  Earl  and  his  Countess*  by 
Jamieson  of  Aberdeen,  styled  the  Scottish  Vandyke ;  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Rothes ;  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Lauderdale ; 
Princess  of  Modena  ;  General  John  Earl  of  Rothes,  by  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  ;  Archbishop  Tillotson,  said  to  be  an  original ;  a  por- 
trait by  Rembrandt  of  himself.    There  is,  besides  these,  a  large 
collection  of  family  portraits.    The  tapestry  in  the  house  is  very 
fine.    1.  The  story  of  Leander;  2.  The  history  of  the  children 
of  Israel's  journey  through  the  wilderness;  3.  The  anointing  of 
Saul,  with  several  other  pieces. 

*  I  may  here  take  notice  of  the  rooks  who  tenant  these  high  trees.  Their  police 
is  indeed  very  strict,  and  to  watch  their  habits  very  entertaining,  especially  atthetinie 
of  building  their  nests,— an  instance  of  which  has  just  come  under  my  own  notice.  A 
pair  fixed  on  a  site  in  a  high  beech  tree,  and  commenced  building,  they  carried  on  their 
operations  for  some  days  with  great  assiduity,  when  one  of  them  espying  a  very  tempt- 
ing rafter  in  a  neighbour's  dwelling,  which  he  seemed  to  think  would  do  extremely 
well  for  his  own,  made  an  attempt  to  possess  himself  of  it ;  but  his  neighbour  being  oa 
the  alert,  he  was  for  the  time  disappointed  ;  when  in  the  after  part  of  the  day,  his 
neighbours  left  their  nest,  immediately  the  new  comer  laid  hold  on  a  large  twig,  and 
conveyed  it  in  triumph  to  his  own  nest.  In  a  short  time  the  robbed  pair  returned, 
missed  their  property,  assailed  tlie  delinquents,  in  which  they  were  joined  by  the  rest 
of  the  rookery,  and  literally  demolished  the  nest,  and  severely  punished  them  for  their 
offence  with  their  long  bills. 


LKSLIE. 


115 


Family  o/Rothes.—The  most  eminent  characters  connected  with 
the  parish  have  been  of  the  family  of  Rothes.  The  Duke  created  by 
Charles  II.  j  and  the  patent  of  the  dukedom  was  only  to  male  heirs. 
He  had  only  one  daughter,  who  married  the  Earl  of  Haddington. 
The  Duke  of  Rothes  was  interred  in  the  burying-place  belonging  to 
the  family  in  the  churchyard. 

Eminent  Men.~The  celebrated  Dr  Pitcairn  was  a  native  of  this 
parish.  There  is  a  farm  which  belonged  to  him,  and  still  retains  his 
name,  and  the  ruins  of  the  house  in  which  he  resided.  The  Dou- 
glases of  Strathendryare  an  old  and  respectable  family  in  the  county 
of  Fife.  The  late  Lord  Reston,  one  of  the  Senators  of  the  Court 
of  Session,  belonged  to  this  family.  The  famous  Adam  Smith, 
author  of  the  Wealth  of  Nations,  was  a  cadet  of  the  Douglas  fa- 
mily. At  one  time,  when  residing  at  Strathendry,  when  t  mere 
child,  he  was  stolen  by  some  gypsies ;  and  it  was  not  till  after  a  con- 
siderable search  had  been  made,  that  he  was  rescued  from  their 
hands.  The  Rev.  Ebenezer  Erskine,  one  of  the  fathers  of  the  Se- 
cession church,  was  for  a  considerable  time  tutor  or  chaplain  in  the 
Rothes  family. 

Land-oiojiers.— The  chief  landholders  are,  the  Earl  of  Rothes 
Robert  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Strathendry,  and  General  Balfour  of  Bal- 
birnie.  .  , 

Antiquities.—Lesiie  Green  is  said  to  be  the  scene  of  the  poem  bv 
Kmg  James,  styled  Christ's  Kirk  on  the  Green.  Although  this  has 
notfully  been  authenticated,  it  yetseems  very  probable;  and  by  Allan 
Ramsay  the  scene  is  said  to  be  Leslie  in  Fife.  It  is  well  known  that 
this  was  a  favourite  hunting-ground  of  the  gay  monarch.  The  games- 
until  very  lately  were  kept  up.    On  the  green,  there  is  still  a  stone 
called  the  bull-stone,  considerably  worn  away  on  the  sides,  by  the 
friction  of  the  rope  by  which  the  unfortunate  animals  were  made 

A  fragment  of  a  deer's  horn,  now  in  the  possession  of  G.  Indis 
was  found  some  time  ago  in  a  bed  of  gravel,  seven  feet  below  the  sur- 
tace.  it  IS  nine  and  a-half  inches  round  at  the  bottom.  The  whole 
horn  was  there,  but  so  wasted,  that  no  other  part  could  be  pre- 
served.  Brass  or  rather  bell-metal  swords  have  been  found;  Ro- 
man and  Caedonian  battle-axes,  the  latter  of  stone;  flint  arrow- 
heads of  particular  fine  workmanship.  The  Hon.  Mrs  Douglas  of 
Strathendry  has  some  of  these,  and  one  head  of  a  spear,  which 
seems  to  have  belonged  to  a  standard. 

There  are  several  large  stones  erected  on  different  eminences. 


116 


FIFESHIRE. 


Lately  one  of  these  was  taken  up,  and  search  made,  when  a  large 
stone  coffin  with  bones  in  it  were  discovered.  To  this  day  many 
of  the  knowes  are  distinguished  by  particular  names,  as  the  Gal- 
lant Knowe,  &c.  It  is  thought  that,  at  the  western  part  of  the  pa- 
rish, is  the  place  where  the  Caledonians  disputed  with  the  Romans 
the  passage  of  the  Leven,  after  defeating  the  ninth  legion  on  the 
Orr.  Here  the  Caledonians  were  defeated,  and  betook  themselves 
to  the  Lomonds ;  and  the  Romans  encamped  on  Balsillie  heights, 
at  the  back  of  Leslie,  where  the  mounds  raised  by  the  Romans 
are  called  the  Balsillie  Laws. 

In  1335,  the  dam  erected  to  drown  the  Scotch  in  Loch  Leven 
Castle,  was  near  the  junction  of  this  and  Portmoak.  The  existence 
and  locality  of  this  dam  have  been  proved,  by  the  removal  of  its 
foundation,  in  the  recent  operations  on  the  Leven. 

About  1760,  a  stone  coffin  or  urn  was  found  near  the  Gallant 
Knowe,  on  Strathendry.  In  1770,  a  tumulus,  which  stood  near  Pit- 
cairn  House,  was  opened  ;  a  stone  chest  was  found,  full  of  human 
bones,  (in  particular,  several  entire  jaw  bones,)  standing  east  and 
west.  At  the  east  end,  were  found  two  urns  of  bluish  clay,  full  of 
bones  evidently  calcined,  and  white  as  chalk. 

Modern  Buildmgs.— These  are,  1st,  Leslie  House.  The  original 
house  built  by  the  Duke  of  Rothes,  around  a  court  like  that  of  the 
Abbey  of  Holyrood  House,  with  a  gallery  three  feet  longer  than  that 
in  the  Abbey,  hung  on  one  side  with  portraits  of  the  connections  of 
the  Rothes  family,  and  on  the  other  side  with  those  of  the  contem- 
poraries and  friends  of  the  Duke,— was  burnt  to  the  ground  on  the 
-28th  December  1763.  The  fourth  of  the  square,  forming  the  pre- 
sent house,  was  repaired  by  John  Earl  of  Rothes  in  1767.  The 
house  of  Strathendry,  belonging  to  R.  Douglas,  Esq.  a  very  hand- 
some building,  in  the  style  of  the  old  Enghsh  manor-house  of  Queen 
Elizabeth's  time.    There  are  also  the  church  built  in  1820;  the 
manse  in  181 1 ;  and  several  large  flax  spinning-mills,  the  first  built 
about  thirty  years  ago. 

The  materials  very  generally  employed  in  building  are  whm- 
stone  for  the  walls,  with  freestone  for  the  rybats  and  skews. 

III. — Population. 
When  the  returns  were  made  to  Dr  Webster  in  1755,  the  num- 
ber of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parish  was  said  to  amount  to  1130. 

In  1756,  the  total  numbeV  was  -  -  1096 

Of  which  in  the  town  of  Leslie,  -  732 
In  the  country  part  of  parish,       -  364 


LESLIE,  117 

In  1769,  the  number  of  souls  in  the  whole  parish,  1165 
In  the  town,  -  -  786 

In  the  country,  -  -  379 

In  1775,  in  the  whole  parish,  -  .  1189 

In  the  town,  ...  786 

Males,  ...  344 

Females,  -  -  442 

In  the  country,  -  .         .  403 

Males,  -  -  -  215 

Females,  -  -  188 

In  1781,  in  the  whole  parish,  -  .  1211 

In  the  town,  ...  805 

Males,  -  .  -  338 

Females,  -  .  467 

In  the  country,  -  -  _  4O6 

Males,  -  -  -  202 

Females,  .  .  204 

In  1785,  in  the  whole  parish,  -  .  1'2I2 

In  the  town,  -  _  .  806 

Males,  -  -  .  344 

Females,  -  .  462 

In  the  country,  ...  4.QQ 

Males,  .  .  .211 

Females,  -  _  195 

In  1801,  .....  1609 

In  1811,  in  the  whole  parish,  -  .  1882 

Males,  -  ■       .  -  863 

Females,  -  .  1019 

In  1821,  in  the  parish,  ...  2200 

Males,  -  .  .  1012 

Females,  .  .  1188 

In  1831,  in  the  parish,  .  .  _  2749 

Males,  .  .  .  1301 

Females,  -  _  1448 

In  the  town,  males,  .  844 

Females,  977 
In  the  country.  Males,  457 
Females,  471 

The  cause  of  the  great  increase  of  the  population  has/been— 
the  improvements  in  the  manufactures.  Fifty  years  ago,  there 
were  but  two  bleachfields,  and  those  on  a  very  small  scale,  now 
there  are  four,  employing,  of  themselves,  upwards  of  140  people. 

The  number  of  the  population  residing  in  the  town  of  Leslie,  -  1821 

country,  .  .  ggg 

Of  deaths  for  last  stven  years,  45^, 

If        'If        'fJ-        ^^,28.        1829.        1830.  1831. 
nr^    ■       r   ,  3^  40  46  41 

Ut  marriages  for  last  seven  years,  18^, 

1&5.        1|6.        1827.     '  im        1829.        1830.  1831. 

^  15  15  28  14  13 

Mesident  Land-owners.~The  only  families  of  independent  for. 


118 


FIFliSHlRF. 


tune  residing  in  the  parish  are  those  of  the  Earl  of  Rothes  and 
R.  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Strathendry.  There  are  four  proprietors  of 
land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,  viz.  the  Earl  of 
Rothes;  R.  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Strathendry;  General  Balfour  of 
Balbirnie ;  and  John  Fergus,  Esq.  of  Prinlaws. 

Number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors  and  widowers,  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,  52 
women,  upwards  of  45,  -  -  -  61 

Tiie  number  of  families  in  the  parish  -  -    '      -  -  395 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture, 

in  trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft, 
Average  number  of  children  in  each  family,  as  near  as  can  be  made  out,       .  5 
Number  of  inhabited  houses  in  the  parish  (one  or  two  may  be  uninhabited,)  336 
houses  building,  -  .  -  -  3 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  appearance  of  the  people,  ex- 
cept in  that  of  the  women  who  work  at  the  bleachfields,  and  who 
are  of  a  remarkably  healthy  apppearance.  Strangers  are  much 
struck  on  seeing  them  spread  the  yarn  on  the  grass  on  a  fine  day, 
with  their  ruddy  complexion  and  picturesque  dress. 

There  are  3  fatuous,  2  blind,  and  3  deaf  and  dumb  in  the  parish. 
Habits  and  Character  of  the  People.— The  habits  of  the  people 
upon  the  whole,  may  be  said  to  be  very  cleanly.    Dunghills  used, 
at  one  time,  to  lie  on  the  street  before  every  house.    These  are  all 
now  removed.  If  we  compare  the  new  houses  of  the  present  time, 
and  the  various  luxuries  in  which  the  people  indulge,  and  the  clothes 
they  wear  with  those  which  their  forefathers  enjoyed,  it  may  in- 
deed be  said  that  they  enjoy  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  so- 
ciety.   Yet  it  is  by  no  means  those  who  have  the  largest  income, 
even  among  the  operatives,  that  have  the  greatest  share  of  these ; 
for  it  is  often  seen  that  those  who  have  the  best  income  are  des- 
titute of  the  habits  of  economy.    The  females  having  been  early 
taken  into  the  public  works,  have  had  no  opportunity  of  learning 
sewing  and  other  things  necessary  to  make  them  good  housewives, 
when  they  become  mothers  of  families. 

The  people  are  generally  contented  with  their  situation  ;  but  it 
is  observed,  that  when  a  poor  man  becomes  a  keen  politician,  he  is 
very  apt  to  become  discontented.  So  much  time  is  spent  in  read- 
ing and  debating,  that  work  is  neglected,  poverty  and  wretchedness 
ensue. 

The  people  pride  themselves  upon  being  very  intellectual ;  and 
there  is  a  very  great  deal  of  the  profession  of  religion. 

Poaching  in  game  has  been  carried  on  to  a  very  considerable  ex- 
tent.    The  facility  of  sending  game  to  Kirkaldy  and  even  Edin- 


LESLIE. 


119 


burgh,  where  it  meets  with  a  ready  sale,  induces  many  an  idle  wea- 
ver to  betake  himself  to  this  dangerous  mode  of  getting  subsist- 
ence. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

The  number  of  imperial  acres  in  this  parish,  which  are  cultivated  or  occasionally  in 
tillage,  -  _  -  -  -  -  .  4324 

Number  of  acres  which  have  been  cultivated,  and  are  now  in  pasture,  -  965 
Number  of  acres  in  undivided  common,  .  -  .  .  27 

Number  of  acres  under  wood,  350 

Produce. — The  average  amount  of  raw  produce,  as  nearly  as  can 
be  ascertained,  may  be  comprised  as  under  : 

Grain  of  all  kinds,           -          .           .  L.  4500  0  0 

Potatoes  and  turnips,                    -          .         .  1600  0  0 

Hay,  meadow  and  cultivated,         -          .          «  600  0  0 

Flax,         -          -          -          -          .          .  150  0  0 

Pasture,  rating  at  L  2,  10s.  for  cow  or  full-grown  ox,  600  0  0 

Mines,  lime,  and  quarries,            -          _          .  qqq  q  q 


I..  7750    0  0 

Manufactures. — In  the  town  of  Leslie,  weaving  is  carried  on  to 
a  very  considerable  extent,  there  being  260  weavers  in  it.  The 
most  of  the  work  is  supplied  from  Glasgow, — being  plain  linen  and 
cotton  checks.  A  good  weaver  can  only  earn  at  the  rate  of  Is.  per 
day,  working  twelve  or  fourteen  hours.  There  are  six  flax  mills 
in  the  parish,  employing  altogether  upwards  of  200  people.  In 
these  mills,  they  are  employed  twelve  hours  per  day,  or  seventy-two 
hours  in  the  week.  The  men's  wages  average  from  15s.  to  1 8s. 
per  week,  the  hacklers  from  lis.  to  L.  1 ;  these  in  general  work 
by  the  piece,  so  that  it  in  a  great  measure  depends  on  their  own 
industry  and  sobriety.  The  wages  of  boys  and  girls,  from  2s.  to 
2s.  6d.  per  week.  These,  when  they  have  been  in  the  mill 
for  three  or  four  years,  are  able  to  make  full  wages.  Women's 
wages  from  4s  6d.  to  6s.  6d.  per  week.  There  are  none  employ- 
ed  in  any  of  the  mills,  so  far  as  can  be  discovered,  under  ten  years 
of  age. 

There  are  likewise  three  bleachfields  in  the  parish,  the  first  em- 
ploying 45  hands;  the  second  39;  the  third  56.  The  men's  wages, 
10s.  per  week;  the  womens,  5s. ;  beginners,  2s.  to  3s.  They  are 
only  at  work  for  ten  hours  in  the  day.  All  these  employments  af- 
ford a  very  fair  remuneration  and  support  to  those  who  are  engaff- 
ed  in  them.  ^  ^ 

The  bleaching  is  perhaps  one  of  the  healthiest  employments  that 
can  be  engaged  in.    The  workers  in  the  mills  have  by  no  means 


120 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  robust  appearance  of  the  bleachers,  although  in  general  they 
enjoy  tolerably  good  health.  Great  attention  is  now  paid  by  the 
mill  proprietors  to  the  proper  ventilation  of  the  rooms  in  which  the 
people  work.  This  is  attended  with  the  happiest  effects  on  their 
health. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Markets. — The  nearest  market-town  to  Leslie  is  Kirkaldy, 
where  an  excellent  weekly  market  is  held  on  Saturday.  This  be- 
ing a  stock  market,  it  is  in  general  well  attended,  and  has  proved 
of  great  benefit  to  the  farmers  and  grain-dealers.  It  is  about  nine 
miles  from  Leslie. 

Means  of  Communication. — There  is  a  daily  penny  post  from 
Kirkaldy  to  Leslie.  The  town  of  Leslie  is  about  a  mile  and  a- 
half  from  the  high  road  to  Dundee  through  Cupar.  Coaches  from 
Edinburgh  to  Dundee,  Cupar,  Perth,  &c.  pass  and  repass  on  the 
road  during  the  summer,  six  or  eight  times  every  day.  There  are  no 
toll  roads  in  the  parish.  The  roads  are  kept  up  by  the  converted 
statute  labour  money,  and  are  in  excellent  order.  The  bridges  and 
fences  are  all  kept  in  the  very  best  manner. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  church  is  situated  in  the  most  con- 
venient part  of  the  parish,  being  nearly  in  the  centre.  It  was  built 
in  the  year  1820,  and  is  in  excellent  repair.  There  are  few  coun- 
try churches  neater  both  in  the  exterior  and  interior.  It  is  seated 
for  850,  but  with  great  ease  contains  1000.  The  free  sittings  may 
contain  300.  The  manse  was  built  in  1811,  and  is  an  excellent 
commodious  house.  The  arable  glebe  is  not  quite  four  acres  in  ex- 
tent; andbutindifferentland.  There  are  nearly  two  acres  of  foggage; 
and  being  close  to  the  village,  it  lets  rather  high.  The  present  rent 
drawn  is  L.  18  per  annum,  for  the  whole.  The  amount  of  sti- 
pend is  L.  257,  8s.  6d.,  including  allowance  for  communion  ele- 
ments. Number  of  families  attending  Established  Church,  270, 
consisting  of  1736  individuals. 

There  are  three  dissenting  chapels  in  the  parish,  and  one  small 
congregation  belonging  to  the  Baptist  connection.  Two  of  the  dis- 
senting congregations  belong  to  what  is  termed  the  United  Asso- 
ciate Synod  of  the  Secession  Church  ;  the  other  to  the  Associate 
Synod  of  Original  Seceders.  Tlie  ministers  are  paid  by  the  pro- 
ceeds of  the  seat  rents.  Two  are  supposed  to  have  L.  110,  the 
other  L.  70,  with  free  houses.  Number  of  families  in  the  parish 
attendino-  the  three  dissenting  congregations,  183,  consistmg  of 


LESLIE. 


121 


1098  individuals.  Number  of  families  attending  the  Episcopa- 
lians, 6j  consisting  of  1 5  individuals. 

The  service  at  the  Established  Church  is  in  general  very  yveU. 
attended.  The  dissenting  places  of  worship,  it  is  understood,  are 
not  over-crowded ;  but  the  writer  has  no  access  to  know,  the  exact 
numbers  of  their  congregations.  The  average  number  of  communi- 
cants in  the  Established  Church  is  500. 

Education, — There  are  altogether  six  schools  in  the  parish ; 
the  parochial  school,  and  five  unendowed  schools  supported  by 
school  fees.  In  the  parish  school,  Latin,  Greek,  and  French,  in 
addition  to  the  other  branches  of  education,  are  taught.  The  pa- 
rish schoolmaster's  salary  is  L.  34;  and  the  amount  of  his  fees  may 
be  L.  18,-  the  emolument  as  session-clerk  is  L.  7  per  annum.  In 
this  parish,  the  parochial  teacher  has  not  the  legal  accommoda- 
tion ;  but  an  adequate  allowance  is  made  by  the  heritors.  A  mere 
English  education  is  at  the  rate  of  8s.  per  annum.  For  Latin  and 
Greek  from  L.  1,  Is.  to  L.  1,  5s.  All  persons  above  six  years  of 
age  in  the  parish  can  read. 

Libraries.— There  is  a  circulating  library,  supported  by  volun- 
tary subscription,  and  managed  by  a  committee  of  the  subscribers  ; 
also  a  small  library  for  the  use  of  the  children  in  the  Sabbath 
schools. 

Poors'  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons  receiving  paro- 
chial aid  for  the  last  seven  years  is  35;  of  these,  1 1  have  received  at 
the  rate  of  Is.  per  week,  and  10s.  in  the  year  to  assist  them  to  pay 
their  house  rent.  The  others  have  a  monthly  allowance  accord- 
ing to  their  families.  Perhaps  the  clearest  way  to  show  the  ex- 
penses of  the  poor  in  the  parish  is  to  give  the  income  and  expen- 
diture for  one  year,  viz.  1832  : 


Income. 


P„i.  „,;  ■  ^  Expenditure  for  the  poor. 

J  '  o  J2    0       Hires  and  fees,         -  8  18 

S  -  0       Momhly  disbursements,     82  JO  Sx 


L.  131  19    9  L.  jr, 


The  collections  are  made  at  the  church  door.  The  interest 
is  from  money  belonging  to  the  session  lent  out  on  heritable 
bonds.  Undercash  is  included  proclamation monev;  theVmiofL  2 
2s.  given  by  the  heritors  in  aid  of  the  poors'  funds  ;  fines  given  by 
the  Justices  of  the  Peace  to  the  parish  from  convicted  poachers; 
and  sums  of  money  paid  by  other  parishes  who  have  paupers  re- 


122 


FIFliSHlRE. 


siding  in  this.  Under  the  denomination  of  parish  poor  and  month- 
ly distribution,  come  the  weekly  and  monthly  poor.  The  hires  and 
fees  are  paid  for  session,  presbytery,  and  synod  clerks'  fees,  the  of- 
ficer's salary,  and  some  clothes  for  the  poor. 

It  is  truly  grievous  to  observe  a  growing  disposition  to  take  every 
advantage  possible  of  the  poors'  funds,  and  to  come  upon  the  pa- 
rish for  aid;  and  children  willing  to  free  themselves  from  every  bur- 
den when  their  parents  advance  in  years. 

jPairs.  There  are  two  fairs  in  the  parish, — the  spring  fair,  held 

on  the  first  Thursday  of  April,  O.  S.  for  milch  cows,  and  the  shew 
of  horses  that  are  to  travel  the  county  during  the  season.  The 
spring  fair  is  always  well  attended.  The  autumn  one  is  held  on 
the  10th  of  October.  This  of  late  years  has  fallen  very  much  off. 
At  this  fair,  lean  stock  are  brought  forward. 

Inns  and  Alehouses.— There  are  4  inns  in  the  parish  and  about 
16  alehouses.  The  inns  are  necessary,  and  at  present  remark- 
ably well  conducted.  But  with  regard  to  the  alehouses,  or  rather 
they  should  be  called  whisky  shops,  a  great  number  of  them  are  a 
perfect  nuisance  and  the  hot-beds  of  vice.  It  is  no  unusual  thing 
for  many  of  the  whisky  shops  to  entertain  company  till  three  or  four 
o'clock  on  a  Sabbath  morning. 

Puel  The  fuel  mostly  made  use  of  is  coal.    There  is  coal  in 

the  parish  and  immediate  neighbourhood;  but  on  account  of  its  be- 
ing dearer  than  at  some  short  distance  farther  away,  the  most  of 
the  coal  used  in  the  houses  and  public  works  is  driven  about  five 
miles  and  a-half.  The  price  of  the  coal  in  the  neighbourhood  is 
14d.  per  load  of  sixteen  stones,  while  at  a  distance  of  five  miles 
it  is  only  lOd.  the  load  of  twenty-two  stones. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
When  the  last  account  was  given  of  the  parish,  the  population 
was  about  1212 ;  at  the  present  time  it  is  2749.  At  that  time, 
there  was  not  a  spinning-mill  in  the  parish,  there  are  now  six  and 
three  large  bleachfields.  At  that  time,  there  were  six  houses  where 
ale  was  sold,  but  that  not  one  person  or  family  was  supported  by 
the  profits  of  a  public-house,— all  having  some  other  employment. 
Now  there  are  20  alehouses,  and  several  of  those  who  keep  them 
have  no  other  employment.  The  Sabbath  with  many  of  them  is 
the  busiest  day, — not  that  they  allow  those  who  come  to  drink  in 
the  public-houses,  but  the  liquor  is  taken  to  private  houses,  and 
the  debauch  carried  on  before  wives,  sons,  and  daughters.  The 
effects  of  this  are  most  demoralizing. 


LESLIE. 


123 


The  manner  of  living  has  been  very  much  altered  within  the 
last  40  years.  In  the  year  1826,  there  was  but  one  butcher,  and 
he  only  killed  a  cow  occasionally ;  now  there  are  three  who  kill  an 
ox,  each,  every  week,  and  meet  with  a  very  ready  sale.  Wheaten 
bread  is  now  much  more  generally  used  than  oaten.  This  may  be 
from  the  most  of  the  women  being  occupied  either  in  the  mills,  or 
winding  the  pirns  for  the  weaver.  They  find  their  time  better  oc- 
cupied in  this  than  preparing  food  for  the  family,  and  so  purchase 
at  the  shops. 

The  improvement  that  has  taken  place  in  the  building  of  the 
houses  is  very  decided.  The  walls  are  built  of  neat  squared  whin, 
and  rybats,  corners,  skews,  and  chimney-tops  of  ashler  work  of  free- 
stone, the  roof  either  tile  or  slate,  the  interior  of  four  apartments, 
very  comfortably  and  substantially  finished. 

The  greatest  improvements  made  in  the  parish  of  late  years  are 
on  the  lands  of  Strathendry,  by  enclosing,  planting,  new  roads,  gar- 
den, and  policy  and  house ;  and  the  improvements  are  still  carry- 
ing on  with  great  spirit,  in  improving  and  reclaiming  wet  land.  One 
instance  may  be  stated  of  the  result  of  the  landlord's  improvements. 
A  field  that  usually  let  for  L.  15  or  L.  20  per  annum  previous  to 
being  drained,— the  first  year  that  it  was  let  in  grass  after  the  im- 
provement, brought  L.  85  per  annum. 

Revised  April  1836. 


PARISH  OF  NEWBURN. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  -SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  THOMAS  LAURIE,  D  D.,  MINISTER. 


1. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Extent,  Boundaries. — This  parish  is  about  3^  English  miles 
long,  and  nearly  2  broad ;  bounded  on  the  east  by  Kilconquhar ; 
on  the  west  by  Largo  ;  by  part  of  both  these  parishes  on  the  north  ; 
and  on  the  south  by  the  sea. 

JSfame. — Its  ancient  name  was  Drumeldry.  At  a  period  less  re- 
mote, that  of  Newhurn  was  assigned  to  it ;  probably  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  a  small  rivulet,  which  runs  through  a  considerable 
part  of  the  parish,  having  changed  its  course.  Etymology,  how- 
ever, is  often  fanciful  and  fabulous. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  soil  in  general  is  fertile,  and 
produces  crops  which  might  arrest  the  attention  of  the  traveller 
who  has  visited  more  fortunate  climes.  His  attention  might  also 
be  attracted  by  the  variegated  scenery  and  extensive  view.  The 
landscape,  consisting  of  rocks  and  woods  and  waters,  and  hills  and 
dales,  is  such  as  a  writer  of  romance  would  have  delighted  to  fancy. 
The  land  is  all  in  pasture  along  the  whole  extent  of  a  flat  sandy  shore. 

H. — Civil  History. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parochial  register  commences  in 
1628,  and  has  been  kept  pretty  regularly. 

Land-oioners. —  The  chief  land-owners  are,  Charles  Halket 
Craigie,  Esq.  of  Dunbarnie,  patron  of  the  parish,  who  has  greatly 
embellished  his  lands  of  Hall-Hill;  John  Anstruther  Thomson,  Esq. 
of  Charleton ;  James  Wyld,  Esq.  of  Gilston,  an  enterprising  and 
spirited  proprietor,  who  on  his  estate  of  Lathallan  in  this  parish, 
has  carried  on  the  most  judicious  improvements.  General  Durham 
of  Largo  ;  Matthew  Wilkie,  Esq.  of  East  Newburn  ;  the  heir  of  the 
late  Sir  John  Leslie  of  Coates  (Professor  of  Natural  Philosophy  in 
the  University  of  Edinburgh,  deservedly  celebrated  as  a  man  of 
science  through  the  civilized  world)  :  and  James  Buchan,  Esq.  of 
Balchrystie. 


NEWBURN. 


125 


Antiquities. — If  we  may  credit  the  tradition  of  a  remote  period, 
the  Culdees  had  a  church  in  this  parish.  King  Malcolm  granted 
to  these  priests  Balchrystie,  where  the  foundation-stones  of  an  an- 
cient edifice  were  dug  up  about  half  a  century  ago  on  the  very 
spot  where  the  church  of  the  Culdees  is  supposed  to  have  stood. 

Resident  Land-owners. — Four  of  the  land-owners  now  mention- 
ed have  mansion-houses  in  the  parish. 

III. — Population. 

Population  in  ]8(»l,  -  412 

1811,  -  428 

1821,  -  398 

1831,  -  418 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  ....  .86 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  .  .  50 

trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,         1 6 

The  decrease  of  the  population  is  to  be  attributed  chiefly  to  the 
union  of  farms,  and  to  the  demolition  of  cottages. 

The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  is,  .  ,  12 

of  deaths,  ....  5 

of  marriages,  .  .  .  .41. 

From  a  recent  enumeration,  it  appears  the  number  of  persons  under  15  years  of 

age,  is  ........  168 

betwixt  15  and  . 30,  104 
30  and  50,  94 
511  and  71),  31 
upwards  of  70  6 

Number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,  9 
women  upwards  of  45,  .         ' .  .  .  12 

The  average  number  of  children  in  each  family,  ...  Ql. 

The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,  is  8 

Character  of  the  People. — In  their  habits,  the  people  are  sober, 
regular,  industrious ;  and,  on  the  whole,  enjoy  in  a  reasonable  de- 
gree the  comforts  of  society.  Participating  its  advantages,  thev 
are  in  general  contented  with  their  situation  and  circumstances. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

Number  of  acres,  standard  imperial  measure,  in  the  parish,  either  cultivated  or 

occasionally  in  tillage,  about,  .....  2400 

Never  cultivated,  and  remaining  in  pasture,  .  .  .  350 

Under  wood,  planted  at  different  periods,  .  .  .  .  j^q 

Rent  of  Land. — The  average  rent  of  arable  land  per  acre  in  the 
parish  is  about  L.  2,  10s.  The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nine- 
teen years.  The  state  of  farm-buildings  and  enclosures  has  been 
considerably  improved.  For  several  years  past,  salmon-fishing  has 
been  carried  on  in  this  and  the  contiguous  parishes,  but  with  no 
great  success. 

Produce. — The  average  amount  and  value  of  raw  produce  year- 
ly raised  in  the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  fol- 
lows : 


126 


FIFESHIllE. 


600  imperial  acres  oats  at  L.  4,  1 6s,  .  L,  2880   0  0 

400  barley  at  L.  5, 4s.  .  2080   0  0 

200  wheat  at  L.  7, 4s.  .        .         1440    0  0 

  6400   0  0 

300  potatoes  at  L.  7,  .  .        2100    0  0 

30  pease  at  L.  4,  16s.  .  .       240   0  0 

150  turnip  at  L.  5,  12s.        .  .        840    0  0 

  3180    0  0 

200  hay,36000stone,atL.2,8s.per  100  stones,  864   0  0 

500  arable  imperial  acres  pasture,  equal  to  grazing  for 

333  cattle,  at  L.  1,  16s.  per  head,  .  599    8  0 

350  acres  imperial  unarable,  ui  pasture,  at  6s.         .         105   0  0 

  704   8  0 

2750  acres.  L.  11,148   8  0 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Towns. — The  nearest  market-towns  are  Colinsburgh 
and  Largo,  each  of  which  is  a  very  short  distance  from  the  east 
and  west  part  of  this  parish. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church,  which  is  commodious 
and  conveniently  situated,  was  built  in  1815.  The  heritors  made 
very  ample  provision  for  the  accommodation  of  the  parishioners ; 
consequently  it  is  capable  of  containing  more  than  the  whole  po- 
pulation. The  manse  was  built  in  1819.  The  extent  of  the  ara- 
ble glebe  is  5  imperial  acres,  the  grass  glebe  between  21  and  22. 
The  value  of  both  may  be  about  L.  30  per  annum.  The  amount 
of  the  stipend  nearly  L.  200.  A  process  of  augmentation  has 
been  depending  before  the  Court  of  Teinds  upwards  of  ten  years. 
The  average  number  of  communicants  at  the  Established  Church 
is  180.  There  are  now  few  Seceders  of  any  description ;  and  the' 
sect  of  Independents  which  formerly  flourished  in  this  parish  is 
gone,  and  the  place  where  they  were  wont  to  assemble  for  public 
worship,  is  converted  into  a  granary.  The  number  of  Seceding 
or  Dissenting  families  in  the  parish  is  3. 

Education. — The  branches  of  education  taught  at  the  parochial 
school  are,  English,  Latin,  Greek,  writing,  and  arithmetic.  In 
1659,  John  Wood,  Esq.  of  Orkie,  destined  that  property  for  erect- 
ing a  free  grammar-school  in  this  parish,  and  maintaining  several 
poor  scholars.  The  parochial  schoolmaster  educates  and  main- 
tains these  poor  boys, — a  liberal  allowance  being  given  him  for  that 
purpose  by  the  patrons  of  Wood's  Institution.  The  salary  which 
he  receives  as  a  parochial  schoolmaster  is  L.29,  18s.  lOd. ;  and  his 
fees  amount  to  about  L.  14  per  annum. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. —  The  average  number  of  poor  per- 
sons receiving  parochial  aid  is  12,  and  the  average  sum  allotted  to 
ea^jh  per  year  is  L.  1,  15s.  5d.    The  annual  amount  of  contribu- 


DYSAHT. 


127 


tions  for  their  rehef  is  L.  28,  16s.  The  proportion  of  this  sum 
arising  from  church  collections  is  L.  13,  3s.  8d. ;  and  from  other 
funds,  L.  15,  12s.  4d.  There  is  now  little  disposition  among  the 
poor  to  refrain  from  seeking  parochial  relief.  The  days  when  ap- 
plication for  such  relief  was  reckoned  degrading  have  long  ago 
passed  away. 

Fuel. — The  expense  of  fuel,  which  is  coal,  is  the  same  as  in  the 
adjoining  parishes. 

Alehouses. — There  is  only  one  alehouse  in  this  parish.  The 
number  of  inns,  in  many  other  parishes,  has,  undoubtedly,  a  very 
pernicious  effect  on  the  morals  of  the  people. 

April  1836. 


PARISH  OF  DYSART. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  DAVID  MURRAY,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name.—k^  far  back  as  there  are  any  records  of  this  parish,  Dy- 
s^t  has  been  called  by  its  present  name.  It  is  said  to  be  of  Gae- 
lic origin,— signifying  the  Temple  of  the  Most  High. 

Extent,  Boundaries.— The  parish  is  situated  in  the  county  of 
Fife,  on  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  is  about  twelve  miles  from  Edin- 
burgh. Its  extreme  length  is  about  4  miles,  its  greatest  breadth 
about  3,  and  it  is  about  10  in  circumference.  Its  form  is  irregu- 
lar. It  IS  bounded  on  the  east  by  Markinch  and  Wemyss  ;  on  the 
west  by  Kirkaldy  and  part  of  Auchterderran ;  on  the  north  bv 
Kinglassie ;  and  on  the  south  by  the  Frith  of  Forth 

Topographical  Appearances.  §-c.-The  coast,  which  in  general  is 
bold  and  rocky,  extends  about  two  miles,  and  rises  with  a  gradual 
ascent  from  the  sea  above  a  mile  northward. 

From  its  situation,  Dysart  is  much  exposed  to  winds  from  the 
east;  still  it  is  allowed  to  be  one  of  the  most  healthy  districts  in 
he  county.  There  are  few  or  no  diseases  peculiar  to  l  Epidemics 
aie  not  frequent.  When  they  come,  they  prove  most  fatal  in  Path- 
head,  not  so  much  from  the  situation  of  the  village,  which  stands 
h.gh,  being  partly  on  a  rocky  and  partly  on  a  sandy  foundation,- 


128 


FIFESHIRE. 


but  chiefly  from  the  crowded  state  of  the  houses,  and  perhaps  from 
want  of  sufficient  attention  to  external  cleanhness. 

Prognostics  of  the  Weather.— T\m  following  prognostics  of  the 
weather  have  been  collected  from  individuals  employed  in  the  col- 
lieries and  ironstone  works,  viz.  that  before  a  storm  of  wind,  a  sound 
not  unlike  that  of  a  bagpipe  or  loud  buzz  of  a  bee  comes  from  the 
metals  in  the  coal  pits,  but  that  previous  to  a  fall  of  ram,  the  sound 
is  much  more  gentle;  that  about  twenty-four  hours  before  a  storm 
of  wind  or  rain,  there  is  a  black  damp  at  the  bottom  of  the  iron- 
stone pits,  and  through  the  waste;  a  damp  so  great,  that  a  lamp  wdl 
not  burn ;  but  that,  before  frost,  the  air  below  is  clear,  and  that  a 
candle  or  lamp  will  burn  easily. 

Hydrographij.—Theve  are  two  mineral  springs  in  the  parish, 
both  of  which  are  perennial,  and  have  been  in  high  repute.  The 
one  is  to  the  eastward  of  the  town.    It  is  much  frequented  by 
strangers  who  come  for  sea-bathing,  and  has  been  found  peculiar- 
ly beneficial  to  individuals  labouring  under  stomach  complaints.  It 
proceeds  from  the  iron  mines  which  are  every  where  in  its  imme- 
diate neighbourhood,  and  is  strongly  impregnated  with  iron.  The 
stones  on  that  part  of  the  beach  over  which  it  runs  into  the  sea  are 
of  the  colour  of  yellow  ochre.    This  spring  is  generally  called  the 
Medicine  Well,'  and  such  is  the  estimation  in  which  it  was  once 
held,  that  great  quantities  of  the  water  were  taken  away,  and  sold 
not  only  in  Fife,  but  in  other  adjacent  counties.    At  differetit 
periods,  it  has  been  warmly  recommended  by  gentlemen  eminent  m 
the  medical  profession.    The  other  mineral  spring  is  a  little  to  the 
westward  of  the  town.    It  is  impregnated  with  vitriol ;  it  has  been 
long  celebrated  for  curing  soreness  and  weakness  in  the  eyes,  as  well 
as  sores  on  other  parts  of  the  body;  and  it  is  still  the  resort  of 
strangers  who  have  those  kinds  of  complaints.    Such  is  its  repute, 
that  it  is  frequently  put  in  bottles  and  sent  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, and  numbers  who  have  used  it  do  not  hesiiate  to  bear  testi- 
mony to  the  great  benefit  they  have  derived  from  it.    It  is  gene- 
rally called  the  Alum  Well. 

There  are  two  small  streams  or  rivulets  which  run  through  the 
parish,  viz.  the  Oar,  and  the  Lochty.  The  Oar,  says  Mr  Chambers 
in  his  Gazetteer,  originates  in  a  rivulet  in  the  parish  of  Dunterni- 
line,  which,  along  with  others,  once  formed  a  small  lake  called  Locu 
Oar,  which  is  now  drained,  and  the  space  converted  into  productive 
land.  The  rivulet  pursues  its  way,  and  is  joined  by  a  stream  fi-om 
Locii  Fittie,  and  further  down  by  one  from  Loch  Gellie.  Thus 


DYSART. 


129 


increased,  the  small  river  Oar  continues  an  easterly  course  for  some 
miles,  till  it  joins  the  Leven  in  the  parish  of  Markinch. 

According  to  the  same  author,  Lochty  is  a  small  stream  rising 
in  the  parish  of  Kinglassie,  which  after  flowing  in  an  easterly  course 
eight  or  nine  miles,  falls  into  the  Oar,  a  short  way  above  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Leven,  which  falls  into  the  Frith  of  Forth. 

Mineralogy. — The  minerals  of  the  parish  consist  of  limestone, 
sandstone,  coal,  and  ironstone.    For  a  long  time,  the  limestone 
was  thought  to  be  of  inferior  quality,  and  was  not  much  used  ex- 
cept by  those  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  quarry.  Now, 
however,  it  is  in  considerable  demand.    The  sandstone,  though  not 
so  beautiful  in  appearance  as  that  which  is  found  in  an  adjacent  pa- 
rish, is  allowed  to  be  of  very  superior  quality.  The  claystone  is  cer- 
tainly inferior  to  that  which  is  brought  from  Angus-shire ;  still  it 
is  in  great  request,  and  is  very  generally  used  for  pavement,  hearths, 
&c.  The  coal  mines  which  are  on  the  estate  of  the  Earl  of  Ross- 
lyn  consist  of  fourteen  beds,  most  of  which,  however,  are  thin,  and 
have  been  wrought  out  above  the  level  of  the  sea.    Three  of  the 
thickest  of  these  beds  are  now  working.  The  uppermost  is  five  feet 
thick,  the  second  eight  feet,  and  the  third  five  feet  thick.  At  pre- 
sent, these  beds  are  working  about  sixty  or  seventy  fathoms  below 
the  surface.    The  metals  cut  through,  in  getting  to  the  coal,  are  a 
sort  of  brownish  stone,  a  clayey  substance  called  by  the  workmen 
till;  freestone  ;  a  hard  bluish  stone;  and  a  hard  coarse  kind  of  coal 
mixed  with  stone.    Dysart  coal  was  amongst  the  first  wrought  in 
Scotland,  operations  having  begun  upwards  of  350  vears  ago.  \  has 
a  strong  heat,  but  being  rather  slow  in  kindling,  and  leaving  much 
ashes,  IS  not  so  pleasant  for  rooms  as  some  lighter  coals.  Like  most 
of  the  minerals  on  the  sea  coast  of  this  parish,  it  dips  to  the  south- 
east one  fathom  in  three  near  the  shore;  but  is  flatter  as  it  goes 
north.    It  has  been  repeatedly  on  fire,  the  effects  of  which  may 
still  be  traced  by  the  calcined  rocks  from  the  harbour  more  than 
a  mile  up  the  country. 

There  are  five  beds  of  ironstone.  They  lie  below  the  coal,  and  as 
they  dipm  the  same  direction,  are  wrought  to  the  west  of  it,  where 
they  come  nearer  the  surface.  The  ironstone  when  quarried  is  ge- 
nerally shipped  for  Carron;  and  it  is  understood  that  a  ton  of  it 
yields  about  12  cwt.  of  iron. 

At  different  periods,  numerous  petrifactions  have  been  found  in 
this  parish  ;_an4  it  may  be  noticed,  that,  for  many  years  there 
were  three  petrified  trees  in  the  very  heart  of  a  rock,  a  little  way 
to  the  westward  of  the  town,  the  bark  or  skin  of  which  resembled 


FIFE.  J 


130  FIFESHIRE. 

pitch.  Two  of  them  were  cut  out  of  the  rock  lately,  and  carried 
away  by  some  unknown  person ;  and  the  other,  which  has  been  con- 
verted into  a  pedestal  for  a  sun-dial,  is  to  be  seen  in  a  garden  m 

the  town  of  Dysart. 

Woods.— The  plantations  in  this  parish  are  not  numerous.  Al- 
tocrether  there  are  about  400  acres  occupied  by  different  kmds  of 
trees,  such  as  fir,  oak,  elm,  &C.-300  acres  of  which  belong  to  the 
Earl  of  Rosslyn,  and  contain  some  trees  of  considerable  age. 

11. — Civil  History. 
Had  the  Burgh  records,  and  other  documents  once  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Sinclair  family  been  preserved,  it  is  probable  that 
they  would  have  thrown  much  light  upon  the  early  history  of  Dy- 
sart    The  former,  however,  are  not  preserved  prior  to  1623,  and 
the  "latter  were  consumed  in  1715,— when,  by  the  neghgence  of  a 
servant.  Lord  Sinclair's  house  was  burnt  to  the  ground.  From  the 
want  of  well  authenticated  sources  of  information,  therefore,  little 
can  be  said  of  the  ancient  state  of  Dysart.    Indeed,  there  are  no 
traces  of  its  history  prior  to  874,  when  the  Danes  invaded  1^  ite  ; 
and  even  then,  little  that  can  be  depended  upon  is  known.  About 
that  time,  the  Danish  fleet,  anchored  off  Dysart,  landed  their  troops 
on  the  sea-coast:  in  marching  into  the  interior  of  the  country, 
they  fought  a  battle  in  a  field  about  a  mile  and  a-half  north  of  the 

Dysart  was  originally  a  Burgh  of  Barony  and  held  of  Lord  Sin- 
clair, but  in  an  act  of  Parhament  dated  1506,  ordaining  the  burghs 
on  the  shores  of  the  Forth  to  expend  their  revenues  on  their  walls 
and  ports,  Dysart  is  included  ;  and  from  this  it  appears  that  it  was 

then  a  Royal  Burgh.  p    ,  u 

It  has  been  ascertained  that  salt  was  made  here  as  far  back  as 
the  year  1450;  that  the  salt  works  at  that  time  were  of  great  ex- 
tent ;  that  not  only  many  of  the  principal  towns  in  Scotland  were 
supphed  with  salt  from  this  port,  but  also  that  large  quantities  ot  it 
were  then  exported  to  Holland.  About  that  time,  too,  and  for  near- 
ly two  or  three  centuries  afterwards,  the  shipping  interest  was  con- 
siderable ;  maritime  and  domestic  commerce  flourished  exceeding- 
ly ;  malting  and  brewing  were  carried  on  to  a  great  extent ;  and  Dy- 
sart is  allowed  to  have  been  one  of  the  principal,  if  not  the  fore- 
most trading  town  in  the  east  of  Fife.    Prodigious  quantities  ot 
merchandise,  we  are  told,  were  regularly  exposed  to  sale  under  the 
piazzas,  which  then  pervaded  the  central  street ;  and  a  square  in  the 
middle  of  the  town  is  represented  as  having  been  in  those  days, 


DYSART. 


131 


what  with  goods  and  what  with  the  merchants  who  attended  them,  a 
sight  of  no  ordinary  splendour.  As  an  illustration  of  the  extensive 
commerce  carried  on  in  Dysart,  and  of  the  general  importance  which 
was  attached  to  it  as  a  commercial  port,  it  may  be  mentioned,  that, 
about  the  year  1640,  when  part  of  the  eastern  pier  had  either  fal- 
len or  was  in  danger  of  falling,  money  to  repair  it  was  not  only  sub- 
scribed by  merchants  in  the  parish  and  neighbourhood,  but  collec- 
tions for  the  same  purpose  were  made  at  the  church  doors  through- 
out the  bounds  of  the  presbytery  at  Dunfermline,  and  several  other 
places  in  the  county. 

The  quarrel  of  the  Parliament  of  England  with  Charles  1.  which 
took  place  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  which 
extended  to  this  part  of  the  kingdom,  suggests  a  few  particulars 
connected  with  the  history  of  Dysart  which  are  not  uninteresting. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  parish  generally  entered  warmly  into  the 
views  of  the  Parliament,    Numbers  of  them,  especially  of  the  sea- 
men "amongst  whom  were  thirty  skippers"  volunteered  into  the  ar- 
my of  the  Covenanters,  and  were  engaged  in  the  memorable  battles 
of  Kilsyth,  Philiphaugh,  Tibbermoor,  and  Aberdeen.  Public  pray- 
ers were  offered  up  for  the  success  of  the  army,  and  public  thanks- 
givings were  returned  for  every  advantage  gained.   The  Solemn 
League  and  Covenant,  which  at  this  time  was  publicly  sworn  and 
subscribed  at  Kirkaldy,  was  also  sworn  and  subscribed  at  Dysart ; 
and  if  any  were  known  to  be  indifferent  in  the  national  cause,  they 
were  immediately  summoned  before  the  kirk-session,  and  were  dealt 
with  as  their  case  seemed  to  deserve.  The  people  of  Dysart  did  not 
abandon  the  cause  they  had  espoused.  Not  only  did  they  raise  mo- 
ney to  assist  in  carrying  on  the  war,  but  furnished  their  proportion 
of  horses,  carts,  and  such  other  things  as  were  necessary.  The  num- 
ber of  those  belonging  to  the  parish  who  were  killed  in  the  different 
battles  already  mentioned  is  stated  to  have  been  98,  and  the  num- 
ber of  those  who  were  wounded  is  mentioned  as  considerable.  In 
these  circumstances,  Dysart  appears  not  to  have  been  behind  in  its 
sympathies.    Large  contributions  were  made  for  the  support  of  the 
wounded.  Even  the  parish  funds  were  devoted  to  the  same  purpose  ; 
and  the  surviving  friends  of  those  who  had  been  disabled  or  slain 
had  their  exigencies  supplied. 

From  the  period  which  has  thus  come  briefly  under  our  review 
till  the  time  of  the  union  between  the  two  kingdoms,  there  is  (from 
the  imperfect  information  contained  in  the  records)  a  blank  in  the 
history,  which  it  is  not  in  our  power  to  fiU  up,  at  least  with  facts 


132 


FIFESIIIRE. 


sufficiently  authenticated.  It  is  well  known,  however,  that  although 
the  advantages  which  Scotland  has  derived  from  the  union  with 
England,  have  been  long  and  deservedly  acknowledged,  it  was  at 
first  lamented  as  an  era  of  misfortune  to  the  Scottish  nation.  The 
trade  of  many  of  the  towns  on  the  coast  of  Fife  was  greatly  depres- 
sed by  it,  and  in  almost  all  of  them  it  began  to  languish.  Dysart 
was  involved  in  the  common  fate.  From  this  time  its  shipping, 
which  had  far  exceeded  that  of  any  other  port  on  the  coast,  fell 
rapidly  into  decay, — its  general  commerce  declined, — its  trade  with 
the  low  countries  in  particular  fell  off  gradually  :  even  the  coal  and 
salt  trade  is  small  in  comparison  of  what  it  once  was ;  and  Dysart 
by  no  means  holds  that  rank  in  the  scale  of  merchandise  which  it 
formerly  did.  * 

Eminent  Men. — Among  the  eminent  characters  connected  with 
the  parish,  the  following  may  be  mentioned.  The  first  Earl  of 
Dysart  was  son  of  the  Rev.  William  Murray,  minister  of  Dysart ; 
and  this  nobleman  is  represented  as  having  taken  a  conspicuous 
part  in  the  counsels  of  Charles  I. 

In  Calderwood's  History  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  the  Rev. 
WiUiam  Hog,  who  was  deposed  for  non-conformity  in  1619,  is  re- 
presented as  a  man  of  considerable  eminence.  The  Bishop  of  St 
Andrews  tried  every  inethod  to  gain  him  ;  sometimes  he  used 
threats,  and  at  other  times  promises.  On  one  occasion,  he  promis- 
ed him  the  richest  living  in  his  gift  if  he  would  engage  not  to  preach 
against  Episcopacy,  but  finding  that  every  effort  was  in  vain,  he 
passed  sentence  of  deposition  and  even  of  banishment  against  him. 
It  appears,  however,  that  Mr  Hog  did  not  leave  the  kingdom,  but 
was  afterwards  admitted  minister  of  Kennoway,  in  which  parish  he 
died. 

The  Rev.  Mungo  Law  was  celebrated  in  his  day,  both  as  a 
preacher  and  as  a  man  of  talents.  During  his  incumbency  in  the 
second  charge  of  this  parish,  he  had  calls  to  various  places.  After 
a  keen  contest,  he  was  chosen  representative  of  the  Presbytery  of 

»  Besides  the  records  of  the  burgh,  the  kirk-session  and  the  presbytery,  from  which 
the  above  information  has  been  chiefly  collected,  there  is  a  manuscript  containing 
many  curious  facts  respecting  the  antiquities  of  Dysart,  of  which  Sir  NV alter  bcott 
largely  availed  himself  in  liis  Tales  of  a  Grandfather.  It  is  the  property  ot  the  tarl 
of  Rosslyn.  Another  is  alluded  to  in  a  small  pul)lication  by  Mr  Charles  Mackie, 
entitled  Historical  Description  of  the  Castle  and  Chapel  of  Roslin.  And  about  two 
years  ago,  Mr  William  Muir,  parochial  teacher  in  Dysart,  collected,  and  at  the  re- 
quest of  a  few  friends,  printed  a  small  hook  containing  many  interesting  facts  resjjeet- 
ing  the  parish,  the  church,  and  the  school.  This  gentleman,  who  is  a  distinguished 
scholar  and  antiquarian,  has  in  possession  many  curious  coins,  old  receipts,  and  au- 
tographs of  eminent  persons  in  public  life. 


DYSART. 


133 


Kirkcaldy,  for  the  famous  Assembly  held  in  Glasgow  in  1638.  He 
was  in  Edinburgh  Castle  in  1650,  when  that  fortress  surrendered 
to  Cromwell,  and  was  one  of  the  six  ministers  who  protested  against 
the  surrender.  He  was,  for  some  time  after,  a  prisoner  in  England, 
and  died  in  February  1660. 

Robert  Beatson  was  born  at  Dysart  in  1742.  He  was  educated 
with  a  view  to  the  military  profession.  He  obtained  an  ensigncy 
in  1756.  He  was  at  the  taking  of  Martinique  and  Guadaloupe,  and 
also  served  in  the  expedition  to  the  coast  of  France,  and  during  the 
American  war.  He  is  the  author  of  many  pubhcations,  among 
which  are  the  following : — Political  Index  to  the  History  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland ;  Naval  and  Military  Memoirs ;  Essay  on  the 
Comparative  Advantages  of  Vertical  and  Horizontal  Windmills  ; 
Chronological  Register  of  both  Houses  of  Parliament.  The  Uni- 
versity of  Aberdeen  conferred  upon  him  the  degree  of  LL.D.  He 
died  at  Edinburgh  in  1818. 

Land-oio7iers— The  principal  land-owners  in  the  parish  are,  the 
Earl  of  Rosslyn  ;  the  Earl  of  Rothes  ;  Sir  John  Oswald  of  Dun  ■ 
nikier ;  and  John  Fergus,  Esq.  of  Strathore. 

Parochial  Registers.— The  parochial  registers  go  so  far  back  as 
1619.  They  consist  of  about  twenty  volumes,  and  are  in  good 
order  except  one  volume,  which,  being  reckoned  of  importance,  was, 
at  the  request  of  the  session,  lately  transcribed  by  the  session-clerk. 

Antiquities.— Among  the  antiquities  connected  with  Dysart,  may 
be  noticed  the  Red  Rocks.  These  are  nearly  a  mile  eastward  from 
the  town.  They  bear  the  memorials  of  some  dreadful  convulsion, 
and  are  associated  with  the  superstitions  of  former  times.  Tradi- 
tion still  points  them  out  as  the  place  where  witches  were  burnt; 
andm  different  records,  there  are  allusions  to  circumstances  which 
render  it  more  than  probable  that  tradition  is  correct.  The  scenery 
all  aroimd  is  truly  picturesque. 

About  half  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  Dysart,  is  the  Castle  of  Ra- 
venscraig.  It  stands  on  a  steep  crag  fronting  the  sea.  It,  with 
the  adjoining  lands,  was  given  by  James  III.  to  WiUiam  Sinclaji-, 
iiarl  ot  Orkney,  when  he  resigned  the  title  of  Orkney;  and  ever 
since,  has  been  the  property  of  the  family  of  Sinclair.  Although  in 
a  ruinous  state  now,  it  was  inhabited  in  Oliver  Cromwell's  time; 
indeed,  it  was  the  place  where  Lord  Sinclair  used  to  hold  his  court 
meetings;  and  the  copy  of  a  summons  which  his  Lordship  sent  to 
the  baihes  of  Dysart  to  appear  before  him  is  still  preserved. 

Wear  the  Castle  of  Ravenscraig,  three  old  trees  stood  together. 


134  riFESHIUE. 

respecting  whidi  two  traditions  have  been  handed  down.  The  one 
is,  that  three  1)rothers  of  the  Sinclair  family  had  encountered  each 
other  there  during  the  night ;  that,  mistaking  each  other  for  robbers, 
they  fell  by  each  others  hands  :  that  they  were  buried  there  ;  and  that 
the  three  trees  were  planted  on  their  graves.    The  other  is,  that 
all  the  ground  about  Dysart  had  been  originally  under  wood,  and 
that  when  the  wood  was  cleared  away,  these  three  trees  were  left 
as  a  memorial  of  its  former  state.    It  is  questionable,  however, 
whether  the  present  trees  are  the  same  which  tradition  refers  to.  . 
It  is  more  than  probable  that,  having  fallen  into  decay,  three  others 
were  planted  in  their  room.    The  arms  of  the  town  of  Dysart  bear 
one  tree;  and  there  has  long  been  a  proverb  here,  "  as  old  as  the 
three  trees  of  Dysart." 

About  a  mile  north  from  the  town,  there  is  to  be  seen  a  large 
stone  in  the  middle  of  a  field,  said  to  be  a  memorial  of  the  bat- 
tle fought  by  the  Danes  to  which  we  have  alluded.  About  halt  a 
mile  north  from  this  field,  there  is  a  farm  called  Carberry,  where 
the  Romans  are  said  to  have  had  a  station,  and  where  it  is  report- 
ed there  was  once  a  Roman  camp,  but  no  traces  of  it  now  reniam. 

Towards  the  south  or  lower  part  of  the  town  of  Dysart,  there 
was  anciently  a  small  chapel,  generally  said  to  have  been  dedu^at- 
ed  to  St  Dennis;  it  is  still  called  St  Dennis's  Chapel:  part  of  the 
original  wall  is  standing ;  but  the  building  has  long  been  used  as  a 

'"^Near  to  St  Dennis's  Chapel,  stands  the  old  church  of  Dysart,  Its 
remains  bear  all  the  signatures  of  its  having  been  a  splendid  and  vene- 
rable buildino-.  On  one  of  the  windows,  the  date  1570  has  been  ob- 
served.   The  steeple  and  porch,  however,  are  evidently  of  more 
ancient  workmanship,  and  the  heavy  stone  roof  of  the  latter,  and 
two  sculptured  stones  above  the  door,  where  the  statue  of  some 
saint  was  probably  ort^e  placed,  refer  the  time  of  their  erection  to 
an  earlier  period  than  1570.    Nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  har- 
bour, there  is  a  high  rock  called  the  Fort.    It  is  said  to  have  been 
fortified  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  but  no  remains  of  any  work  are  dis- 
cernible on  it.    A  receipt  of  Cromwell's  for  money  received  ^^^as 
lately  found  amongst  the  town's  papers,  and  was  in  possession  ot  the 
treasurer;  but,  in  consequence  of  being  handed  from  one  to  an- 
other as  a  curiosity,  it  cannot  now  be  found. 

In  the  middle  of  the  town  of  Dysart,  stands  the  town-house,  it 
was  built  in  1617,  and  contains  the  hall  in  which  the  magistrates 
and  council  assemble  for  conducting  the  ordinary  affairs  of  tlic 


PYSART. 


135 


burgh.  Under  the  same  roof,  are  the  prison,  the  pubhc  weigh-house, 
the  guard-house,  and  the  black-hole.  The  whole  is  a  plain  build- 
ing of  strong  ruble  work,  ornamented  with  a  tower  and  spire. 
Part  of  it  was  occupied  as  a  barrack-room  by  Cromwell's  soldiers, 
and  part  of  it  as  a  magazine.  Some  of  the  soldiers,  however,  having 
entered  the  magazine  with  a  lighted  match,  while  in  a  state  of  intoxi- 
cation, the  whole  building  was  almost  reduced  to  a  ruin,  and  was 
not  rebuilt  for  several  years  afterwards. 

Mansion-house,  8fc. — The  only  mansion-house  now  in  the  parish 
is  that  of  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn.  It  stands  to  the  westward  of  the  town 
of  Dysart.  It  is  a  plain,  but  neat  and  commodious  building,  and 
commands  a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  Forth,  and  of  the  pictur- 
esque scenery  to  the  eastward  of  the  town. 

About  five  or  six  years  ago,  a  mill  for  spinning  flax  was  erected 
in  the  parish,  which  employs  from  eighty  to  an  hundred  individuals, 
'  most  of  whom  are  resident  in  the  town.  There  is  also  a  factory  for 
stone-ware,  which  gives  employment  to  nearly  an  hundred  indivi- 
duals. And  there  is  a  small  factory  for  making  ropes,  at  which 
three  or  four  individuals  have  constant  employment. 

III. — Population. 
From  want  of  proper  documents,  little  information  can  be  given 
of  the  ancient  state  of  the  population  of  this  parish.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  Dunfermline,  it  has  long  been  reckoned  the  most  po- 
pulous in  the  county.  So  far  back,  indeed,  as  the  year  1619  or 
1620,  the  inhabitants  were  so  numerous,  that  one  minister  was  not 
sufficient  to  do  the  work  of  the  parish,  and  in  consequence  of  this 
a  second  charge  was  estabhshed,  and  another  minister  introdu- 
ced. According  to  Dr  Webster's  report,  as  quoted  in  the  former 
Statistical  Account,  the  number  of  souls  in  1755  was  2367,  and, 
as  will  be  seen  from  the  census  of  1831,  it  is  now  upwards  of 
7000,  exclusive  of  sailors,  which  amount  to  a  few  hundreds  more. 
This  great  increase  may  be  fairly  traced  to  the  different  public 
works  which  have  been  estabhshed  in  the  parish ;  to  the  facilities 
afforded  to  feuars  ;  to  the  low  rate  of  house-rents,  and  to  the  cheap- 
ness of  fuel. 

A  more  particular  account  of  the  different  villages  in  the  parish 
will  afterwards  be  given  ;  but  in  the  meantime  the  following  state 
of  the  population  may  be  depended  upon : 

Town  of  Dysart,          ....  1801 

Pathhead,  including  Sinclair  Town,          .  3330 

Hawkley  Muir  or  upper  part  of  Sinclair  Town,  .  434 

Gallaton,          ....            .  1033 


136 


FIFESHIRE. 


Boreland,  

Country  part  of  the  parish,         .  •  -  '^'■^ 

7104 

Males  3201 

Females,    .  .        •  •  •  "^^^'^ 

The  only  family  of  nobility  residing  occasionally  in  the  parish 
is  that  of  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn  :  but  there  are  many  families  of  in- 
dependent fortune,  and  five  or  six  proprietors  of  land  whose  in- 
come from  that  source  varies  from  L.  200  to  L.  300  or  L.  400  a 
year. 

Dysart  can  boast  of  at  least  as  many  instances  of  longevity  as 
any  parish  in  Fife.  There  are  a  good  many  instances  of  people 
above  eighty  years  of  age,  attending  church  regularly  twice  a  day, 
not  only  in  summer  but  during  winter;  and  not  many  months  ago, 
a  respectable  old  man  in  'his  ninety-fourth  year,  not  only  attended 
church  but  sat  in  session  with  his  brethren,  and  his  recollections 
were  as  distinct  as  at  any  period  of  his  life. 

The  number  of  lunatics  known  to  belong  to  the  parish  is  only 
two,  and  they  are  supported  in  an  asylum  by  the  heritors.  The 
number  of  fatuous  persons  does  not  exceed  three  or  four  at  most. 

The  great  body  of  the  people  are  of  industrious  habits  ;  and  al- 
though from  the  pressure  of  the  times,  they  have  not  had  it  in  their 
power  to  enjoy  those  comforts  which  they  did  a  few  years  ago,  it 
would  be  great  injustice  to  conceal  that  they  have  borne  their  pri- 
vations with  more  than  ordinary  patience— and  that,  upon  the  whole, 
they  are  contented  and  happy  with  their  situation  and  circumstan- 
ces. There  are  a  great  number  of  very  intelligent  individuals 
amongst  them,  and  not  a  few  who  are  distinguished  both  for  reli- 
gious principle  and  good  moral  practice. 

At  one  time,  smuggling  prevailed  to  a  very  great  extent,  and  the 
common  impression  was,  that  there  was  no  harm  in  it  In  many 
of  the  old  houses,  indeed,  the  smuggling  holes  where  sea-faring 
people  concealed  tea,  gin,  and  other  articles,  are  still  to  be  seen; 
but  this  degrading  and  sinful  practice  is  not  now  known  to  exist, 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture.— This  parish  contains  3054  Scotch  acres,  the  whole 
of  which  are  arable,  and  under  the  plough,— except  about  400  acres 
of  plantation  ground,  and  a  park  here  and  there  let  for  grazing  cattle. 

The  trees  belonging  to  the  different  plantations,  as  formerly  men- 
tioned, are  fir,  oak,  elm,  &c.  all  of  which  are  regularly  thinned 
and  pruned,  and  the  management  of  which  is  understood  to  be  ex- 


DYSART. 


137 


cellent.  As  farm  rents  are  generally  paid  partly  in  grain,  and  part- 
ly in  money,  it  is  difficult  to  say  precisely  what  is  the  actual  rent 
of  arable  land.  It  varies  from  L.  1, 5s.  to  L.  6,  6s.  The  average  of 
the  whole,  however,  as  nearly  as  can  be  calculated,  is  about  L.  2,  5s. 
or  L.  2,  6s.  per  acre. 

Rent  of  Land. — The  usual  rent  of  grazing  an  ox  or  cow  for 
the  season  is  L.  4,  and  of  grazing  a  ewe  or  full-grown  sheep  about 
16s.  yearly. 

Improvements. — It  is  generally  admitted  that  in  no  part  of  Fife- 
shire  have  greater  improvements  been  made  in  agriculture  than  in 
this  parish.  Much  land  formerly  waste  has  been  reclaimed,  drain- 
ed, and  embanked.  The  farm-buildings  are  generally  in  the  high- 
est order,  being  mostly  all  new  within  these  few  years.  The  system 
of  husbandry  pursued  is  that  which  has  been  most  generally  ap- 
proved of  by  those  qualified  to  judge.  The  general  duration  of  leases 
is  nineteen  years  ;  and  although  there  is  no  public  association  in  the 
parish  for  the  encouragement  of  agriculture,  great  attention  has 
been  paid  to  the  improvement  of  farm  stock. 

As  the  farms  are  all  under  the  plough,  there  are  few  sheep  in 
the  parish.  The  breeds  of  cattle  generally  preferred  are  the  Fife, 
Ayrshire,  and  Teeswater  breeds.  Great  attention  has  also  been 
paid  to  the  rearing  of  horses. 

The  estates  on  which  the  above-mentioned  improvements  have 
chiefly  taken  place,  are  those  belonging  to  Mr  Fergus  of  Strathore 
and  the  Earl  of  Rossyln.  On  these  estates  as  weir  as  throughout 
the  parish,  the  leases  are  for  nineteen  years,  except  the  burgh  roods 
or  acre  land,  which  is  let  from  year  to  year. 

At  the  time  the  leases  were  granted,  they  were  reckoned  favour- 
able to  the  tenants ;  but  from  the  low  prices  of  grain  of  late  years, 
the  tenants  complain  that  they  are  unable  to  pay  their  stipulated 
rents. 

Wheat,  bariey,  oats,  potatoes,  hay,  and  turnip  are  raised  in  large 
quantities  and  in  regular  rotation ;  but  the  exact  amount  of  raw 
produce  raised  in  the  parish  could  not  easily  be  ascertained. 

Manufactures.— Ahout  forty  years  ago,  there  were  about  100 
smiths  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  nails.  It  is  said  that  about 
12,000,000  of  nails  were  made  by  this  number  of  men,  and  that 
their  value  was  not  less  than  L.  2000.  These  were  generally  sold 
m  Edmburgh  and  Glasgow,  as  well  as  in  all  the  principal  towns 
of  the  north  of  Scotland ;  and  a  large  proportion  of  them  were  used 
for  ship-building.    This  branch  of  nail  manufacture  flourished  ex- 


138 


FIFESIIIRE. 


ceedingly  for  upwards  of  a  century ;  but  nail  factories  having  Ijeen 
established  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  greatly  diminished  the 
profits  of  the  merchants  here,  and  now  the  trade  itself  is  almost 
totally  discontinued. 

The  same  thing  may  be  said  of  the  manufacture  of  Unen  cloth. 
Formerly,  great  quantities  of  it  were  made  in  the  parish ;  but  very 
few  now. 

The  principal  branch  which  flourishes  at  present  is  the  manu- 
facture of  checks  and  ticks.  This  branch  of  trade  was  introdu- 
ced into  the  parish  between  1710  and  1720;  it  continued  to  in- 
crease till  1776  ;  but  about  that  time  scarcely  brought  L.  9000  of 
yearly  value.  It  is  very  different  at  present.  The  number  of 
looms  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  this  kind  of  cloth  is 
about  2088;  the  quantity  of  cloth  made  is  supposed  to  be 
31,006,720  yards;  and  the  annual  value  of  this  quantity  not  under 
L.  150,236.  A  large  proportion  of  this  is  sold  in  Glasgow,  Lon- 
don, Manchester,  Livei-pool,  Nottingham  and  Leeds.  A  large  pro- 
portion of  it  is  also  sent  to  other  parts  of  Europe,  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  to  the  East  and  West  Indies.  The  number  of 
hands  employed  in  this  department  of  trade,  including  weavers, 
winders,  and  warpers,  may  be  fairly  estimated  fi-om  5000  to  6000. 
Several  of  the  manufacturers  have  agencies  in  different  parts 
of  the  country,  in  Ceres,  Strathmiglo,  and  Perth;  and  it  appears 
from  their  testimony  that  the  number  of  looms  employed  by  them 
out  of  the  parish  is  above  1000. 

The  weavers  are  engaged  all  the  six  days  of  the  week,  when  they 
can  find  employment.  Some  of  them,  indeed,  are  obliged  to  work 
from  four  or  five  in  the  morning  till  ten  or  eleven  at  night ;  and  after 
all  their  industry,  will  not  earn  more  than  5s.  or  6s.  per  week.  It 
is  almost  needless  to  add,  that  this  is  but  a  poor  remuneration  for 
their  labour ;  that  the  effects  of  such  long  hours  on  their  health 
are  any  thing  but  good,  and  are  very  adverse  to  mental  unprove- 
ment. 

At  the  mill  where  flax  is  spun,  the  work  people  are  employed 
from  half-past  five  in  the  morning  till  eight  at  night,  half  an  hour 
being  allowed  for  breakfast  and  the  same  for  dinner.  The  earn- 
ings of  the  female  mill-spinners  are  from  6s.  to  7s.  weekly.  It  de- 
serves to  be  mentioned  that  the  proprietors  of  this  mill  are  men  of 
great  respectability;  that  they  take  an  interest  in  the  morals  of  the 
young  people ;  and  that  they  will  not  allow  the  most  distant  ap- 
proaches to  anything  like  vice. 


DYSART. 


139 


Navigation. — Formerly  the  shipping  interest  of  the  Port  of  Dy- 
sart  was  considerable,  by  far  the  greatest  of  any  in  Fife.  Now, 
however,  there  are  only  a  few  brigs  and  a  few  sloops,  and  there  are 
no  foreign  vessels  to  the  port,  except  now  and  then  one  from  Hol- 
land or  from  the  Baltic,  or  when  coals  are  ordered  for  the  Northern 
Lighthouses. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Burgh. — The  only  town  in  the  parish  is  the  town  or  burgh  of  Dy- 
sart.  It  consists  chiefly  of  three  narrow  streets,  with  a  species  of  square 
in  the  centre.  The  central  or  High  Street  is  full  of  antique  substan- 
tial houses,  the  fronts  of  which  are  generally  decorated  with  in- 
scriptions and  dates,  and  in  one  part  of  it  with  piazzas.  The  piaz- 
zas are  places  in  which  the  merchants  in  olden  times  exposed  their 
goods  to  sale,  but  the  greater  number  of  them  are  now  built  up, 
so  that  the  houses  themselves  scarcely  retain  a  vestige  of  what  was 
thought  no  small  part  of  their  ancient  grandeur. 

The  burgh  was  ktely  disfranchised,  owing  to  some  informality 
in  the  Michaelmas  elections  ;  and  its  affairs  at  present  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  three  managers,  nominated  by  the  Court  of 
Session,  The  revenue  of  the  burgh  is  about  L.  500  or  L.  600.  The 
nearest  market-town  to  it  is  Kirkaldy. 

Villages. — There  are  three  villages  in  the  parish,  Pathhead,  Gal- 
laton,  and  Boreland.  Pathhead  is  in  the  western  extremity  of  the  pa- 
rish, at  the  head  of  a  steep  descent  leading  to  Kirkaldy  called  the 
Path,  and  from  thence  it  derives  its  name.  It  is  divided  into  Path- 
head  Proper  or  Dunnikier,  and  Sinclairton.  The  former  or  old 
town,  which  is  of  very  ancient  date,  is  built  on  the  estate  of  Dun- 
nikier. It  consists  of  three  principal  streets,  the  Back,  the  Mid- 
dle, and  the  Nether  Street,  at  the  end  of  which  last  street,  is  the 
house  long  inhabited  by  the  family  of  Dunnikier.  The  latter,  or 
New  Town,  is  built  on  the  estate  of  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn,  and  is  se- 
parated from  the  former  by  the  great  road  leading  to  Dundee. 
The  building  of  it  commenced  about  seventy  years  ago,  and  ex- 
tends about  a  mile  north,  where  it  joins  the  village  of  Gallaton. 
The  population  in  this  part  of  the  parish,  as 'will  be  seen  from  the 
last  census,  is  3764. 

Gallaton  is  a  village  of  considerable  extent.  It  is  divided  into 
Easterand  Wester  Gallaton.  The  population  of  both  is  1053.  There 
are  two  traditions  respecting  the  origin  of  the  name.  The  one  is, 
that  under  the  feudal  system,  the  field  on  which  the  first  house  was 
built  was  the  place  where  criminals  were  executed.    The  other 


140 


FIFESHIRE. 


and  more  probable  of  the  two  is,  that  about  two  or  three  hun- 
dred years  ago,  a  noted  robber  or  house-breaker  suffered  the  ex- 
treme penalty  of  the  law  here,  and  that,  from  this  circumstance,  it 
got  the  name  of  Gallowstown,  afterwards  of  Gallaton,  It  was  long 
a  place  celebrated  for  the  making  of  nails:  and  when  Dr  Adam 
Smith  resided  in  Kirkaldy,  he  frequently  came  to  converse  with  the 
more  intelligent  nailers  in  this  village  respecting  their  mode  of  barter. 

The  village  of  Boreland  is  the  most  inconsiderable  of  the  three. 
It  is  about  half  a-mile  to  the  south-east  of  Gallaton  ;  it  was  found- 
ed about  a  century  ago,  and  is  inhabited  by  those  who  are  employ- 
ed in  the  coal  works.  About  twenty  years  ago,  there  were  fully  300 
individuals  residing  here ;  but  by  the  last  census  the  population  does 
not  exceed  184.  This  arises  from  the  coal  works  being  carried  on 
on  a  less  scale  than  formerly. 

Means  of  Communication. — The  parish  enjoys  ample  means  of 
communication  with  almost  every  part  of  the  country.  It  has  two 
post-offices  or  rather  sub-offices ;  Kirkaldy  being  the  nearest  post- 
town.  The  turnpike  roads  are  in  excellent  condition.  There  is 
one  which  leads  to  Dundee  and  Aberdeen,  about  four  miles  and  a- 
half  in  length ;  another  leading  to  St  Andrews  by  Ceres,  about 
three  miles  in  length ;  and  another  which  branches  off  from  the 
great  road  to  Dundee  and  leads  into  the  interior  of  the  country, 
north  from  the  village  of  Gallaton.  Besides  two  steam-boats  which 
ply  regularly  to  Newhaven,  a  packet  which  plies  three  times  a-week 
to  Leith,  and  an  occasional  one  to  Dundee,  no  fewer  than  six  pub- 
lic carriages  travel  on  the  turnpike  roads, — two  to  Aberdeen,  one 
to  Dundee,  one  to  Perth,  one  to  Montrose,  and  one  to  Crail. 

The  only  two  bridges  in  the  parish  which  need  to  be  mentioned 
are  those  on  the  water  of  Oar  and  Lochty.  The  one  is  about  two 
miles  and  a-half  from  the  cross  of  Dysart,  and  the  other  about 
three  miles. 

The  harbour  of  Dysart,  the  revenue  of  which  belongs  to  the 
burgh,  has  been  long  and  well  known  not  to  be  one  of  the  safest 
on  the  Frith  of  Forth.  In  winter,  when  the  wind  is  easterly, 
it  is  extremely  dangerous.  The  swell  inside  of  it  is  so  great 
that  ships  have  been  frequently  driven  from  their  moorings,  and 
have  been  almost  wrecked  in  it ;  indeed,  it  is  no  unusual  thing 
to  be  obliged  to  scuttle  them.  This  arises  not  so  much  from 
the  situation  of  the  harbour,  as  from  the  construction  of  the  east 
pier.  Several  eminent  engineers  and  naval  gentlemen  have  repeated- 
ly given  it  as  their  opinion,  that,  were  part  of  it  taken  down  and  car- 
ried out  in  a  different  direction,  Dysart  might  not  only  be  made 


DTSART. 


141 


the  safest  and  most  commodious  harbour  on  the  coast,  but  might 
be  rendered  capable  of  admitting  ships  of  almost  every  burden,  and 
might  even  admit  vessels  drawing  fifteen  feet  of  water  when  the 
tides  were  at  their  lowest  ebb.  As  this,  however,  required  more  funds 
than  the  town-council  could  command,  it  was  resolved  a  few  years 
ago  to  convert  a  quarry  adjacent  to  the  west  pier,  into  a  wet  dock, — 
an  undertaking  which  has  been  lately  completed,-  so  that  Dysart  can 
now  boast  of  a  harbour  to  which  none  on  the  coast  of  Fife  can  be 
compared.  The  depth  of  water  it  contains  is  fully  eighteen  feet, 
and  it  will  hold  about  seventeen  or  eighteen  vessels  of  different 
burdens,  exclusive  of  what  the  old  harbour  will  contain. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  was  built  in  1802.  It 
is  a  neat  plain  building,  is  seated  for  1600  examinable  persons,  and 
cost  from  L.  1800  to  L.  2000.     Its  situation,  which  is  at  the  top 
of  the  town,  is  fully  as  convenient  for  the  parishioners  in  general, 
as  any  other  which  could  have  been  selected,  none  of  them  being 
more  than  twenty  minutes  walk  from  it,  except  those  living  in  the 
country,  many  of  whom  are  above  five  miles  distant.    The  seats 
are  all  private  property,  except  a  few  which  belong  to  the  kirk-ses- 
sion. These  last  are  let  every  half  year  at  a  very  low  rate,  and  the 
rents  given  to  the  poor.    There  are  no  free  sittings  for  the  poor. 
Dysart  is  a  collegiate  charge.    The  stipend  of  the  first  minister, 
as  lately  augmented,  is  11^  chalders  of  victual,  half  meal,  and 
half  barley,  payable  according  to  the  highest  fiar  pricesof  the  county. 
He  has  also  a  chalder  of  salt  yearly,  the  value  of  which  is  L.  3,  12s. ; 
lOi  cwt.  of  coals  weekly ;  L.  10  for  communion  elements  ;  and  15s. 
lid.  from  some  old  buildings,  called  the  Teind  Barns,  which,  with 
the  consent  of  the  presbytery,  were  feued  to  Lord  Sinclairabout  sixty 
years  smce.    The  minister  has  also  a  manse  and  glebe,  and  a  right 
to  the  fish  teinds.    The  glebe  consists  of  four  acres,  and  would 
brmg  at  present  L.  20  of  yearly  rent.    It  is  only  about  eleven  vears 
smce  a  glebe  was  given.    Although  the  house  which  the  minister 
occupies  IS  about  forty  years  old,  it  is  not  more  than  five  years  since 
It  was  made  a  manse.    The  former  one,  which  was  built  in  1777, 
requiring  some  repairs,— it  was  thought  more  advisable  to  purchase 
the  present  house,  which  is  considerably  larger;  to  which,  exchange 
the  presbytery  consented.    The  stipend  of  the  second  minister  is 
10  chalders  of  victual,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  paid  in  the  same 
manner  as  that  of  the  first.  He  has  L.  50  of  money,  part  of  which 
are  included  in  the  10  chalders  of  victual;  lOi  cwt.  of  coals  in 
the  fortnight,  and  L.  5  for  communion  elements.   He  also  receives 
U  25  yearly,  being  the  interest  of  money  mortified  in  the  town's 


142 


FIFES  11 1  RE 


hands  upwards  of  two  hun(h-ed  years  ago.  He  has  neither  manse 
nor  glebe,  nor  any  allowance  for  them.  The  Earl  of  Rosslyn  is 
the  patron  of  both  charges. 

Large  and  increasing  though  the  population  of  Dysart  be,  there 
are  no  Chapels  of  Ease  attached  to  the  Established  Church.  But 
about  thirteen  years  ago,  seven  or  eight  individuals  connected  with 
the  village  of  Pathhead,  agreed  to  erect  a  place  of  worship  at 
their  own  expense.  It  cost  about  L.  3000,  and  they  have  no  re- 
turn for  their  money  but  the  seat  rents,  which  are  far  from  being 
an  adequate  remuneration.  The  house  was  opened  in  November 
1823,  ever  since  which  time  the  ministers  of  Dysart  have  preach- 
ed in' it,  and  dispensed  the  ordinances  of  religion,  without  asking 
or  receiving  any  emolument.  The  building  is  neat  and  elegant; 
it  is  ornamented  with  a  spacious  tower,  and  is  seated  for  970  persons. 

There  are  two  dissenting  chapels  in  the  parish,  the  one  belong- 
ing to  the  synod  of  Relief,  and  the  other  to  the  Antiburghers.  The 
stipend  of  the  minister  in  the  Relief  chapel  is  very  small,  and  that 
of  the  Antiburgher  does  not  exceed  L.  100  yearly.  Both  are  de- 
pendent for  their  livings  upon  the  seat  rents,  and  the  Sabbath  days' 
collection  made  at  their  church  doors.  These  cannot  amount  to 
much,  when  it  is  considered  that  the  usual  congregation  in  both 
places  does  not  exceed  800  or  900  people  at  most 

A  few  years  ago,  the  parish  was  divided  by  authority  of  the  Pres- 
bytery, so  that  each  minister  has  now  a  district  under  his  own  im- 
mediate superintendence.  In  the  east  division,  which  includes  the 
town  of  Dysart,  the  villages  of  Gallaton,  Boreland,  and  the  coun- 
try part  of  the  parish,  the  state  of  matters  with  respect  to  the 
Church  is  as  follows : 

Belonging  to  Other  deno-  Unknown  to 

tlic  Church.  minafwns.  Mong  to  any. 

Dysart,  -  1262  364  58 

Gallaton,  -  910  2o5  144 

Boreland  and  country,       337   ^ 

2509  ^  231 

The  number  usually  attending  the  parish  church  is  from  1200  to 
1300 ;  and  at  Pathhead  it  is  about  600.  There  are  about  1800 
names  on  the  communion  roll ;  but  of  this  number  not  more  than 
600  or  700  communicate  in  the  parish  church,  at  each  sacrament : 
and  not  more  than  400  at  Pathhead. 

There  are  several  religious  societies  in  the  parish,  viz.  a  Bible 
and  Missionary  Society,  which  occasionally  gives  part  of  its  funds 
to  the  Gaelic  and  Hibernian  Societies ;  a  Sabbath  Evening  School 
Society  ;  and  a  Society  for  the  Education  of  Children.   This  last 


DYSART. 


143 


society  does  not  educate  the  young  people  gratuitously ;  but  only 
pays  one-half  of  the  school  fees,  upon  condition  that  the  parents 
pay  the  other  half.  Hitherto,  it  has  been  supported  by  individual 
subscriptions  among  the  heritors,  and  by  the  parishioners  at  large, 
and  also  by  collections  at  the  church  doors. 

Besides  these,  there  is  a  society  in  the  town  of  Dysart  for  the 
support  of  indigent  old  women.  It  has  existed  for  nearly  half  a 
century,  and  has  been  the  means  of  doing  much  good.  Its  expen- 
diture has  been  about  L.  40  yearly. 

The  exact  amount  of  contributions  for  religious  and  charitable 

* 

purposes  cannot  easily  be  ascertained ;  but,  including  collections 
made  at  the  church  doors,  it  is  not  less  than  L.  100  yearly.  Last 
year  it  was  nearly  L.  200.  Owing  to  the  dulness  of  trade,  and  the 
low  rate  of  wages  among  the  labouring  classes  of  society,  and  ow- 
ing to  few  of  the  heritors  residing  constantly  in  the  parish,  the  col- 
lections made  at  the  church  doors  are  not  so  great  as  formerly. 

Education. —  There  are  14  schools  in  the  parish, — two  of  which 
are  taught  by  females,— viz.  at  Dysart,  4;  at  Pathhead,  4;  at  Sin- 
clairtown,  2  ;  at  Gallaton,  3;  at  Boreland,  1 ;  total,  14.  The  paro- 
chial or  rather  the  burgh  school  is  conveniently  situated  only  for  such 
children  as  reside  in  the  town  of  Dysart.  The  master  is  elected  by 
the  town-council,  who  pay  his  salary,  amounting  to  L.  43,  partly  from 
the  burgh  funds,  and  partly  from  money  mortified  for  this  purpose. 
He  has  no  dwelling-house  nor  garden,  but  he  receives  an  allow- 
ance for  them  from  the  town.  Besides  the  usual  branches  of  edu- 
cation, he  teaches  Latin,  book-keeping,  and  mensuration.  All  the 
other  schools  are  supported  by  school-fees  alone,  except  two,— one 
in  Pathhead,  which  is  endowed,  and  the  master  of  which  receives 
L.  120  in  the  year  for  teaching  150  children  reading,  writing,  and 
arithmetic;  and  another  in  Boreland,  the  salary  of  which  is  L.  8, 
besides  free  house,  school-house,  and  coals.  The  total  number  of 
children  attending  the  above-mentioned  schools  varies  from  700 
to  800. 

Notwithstanding  the  facilities  for  education  that  this  parish  af- 
fords, It  was  lately  ascertained,  that  there  are  nearly  60  persons  above 
the  age  of  fifteen  who  cannot  read  or  write.  Judging,  however,  from 
the  eagerness  with  which  many  parents  have  availed  themselves  of 
the  advantages  which  have  been  more  recently  held  out,  it  would, 
perhaps,  be  unfair  to  say,  that  the  people  in  general  are  not  alive  to 
the  benefits  of  education;  and  the  number  of  uneducated  children 
in  the  parish  can,  in  very  many  instances,  be  traced  to  the  low  wages 


144  FIFESHIRE. 

which  the  labouring  classes  receive,  and  which  render  it  almost  im- 
possible for  them  to  educate  their  children  without  assistance. 

It  was  already  said,  that  the  burgh  school  is  conveniently  situated 
for  those  children  only  who  reside  in  the  town.  But  it  ought  to  be 
mentioned,  that  although  the  present  teacher  is  a  distinguished  scho- 
lar, the  youth,  even  within  the  town,  are  so  numerous,  that  they 
could  not  be  educated  at  all  were  it  not  for  the  private  schools  which 
have  been  opened.  And  in  the  landward  or  country  part  of  the 
parish,  which  is  4,  5,  and  5^  miles  distant  from  Dysart,  the  youth 
would  not  be  educated  at  all,  were  it  not  that  a  school-house  has 
been  built  by  subscription  in  a  corner  of  the  parish  of  Markinch, 
supported  partly  by  school  fees,  and  partly  by  a  salary  paid  to  the 
teacher  by  the  Earl  of  Rosslyn  and  Mr  Balfour  of  Balgonie.  At 
the  last  examination  of  this  school  there  were  70  children  present, 
amongst  whom  were  four  Latin  scholars. 

The  expense  of  education  in  this  parish  is  in  some  cases  2d.  per 
week,  but  more  generally  3d.  weekly,  or  3s.  per  quarter  for  the 
ordinary  branches.  It  is  almost  needless  to  add,  that  in  each  of  the 
villages  in  the  parish,  especially  in  Gallaton,  Boreland,  and  the 
landward  part  of  the  parish,  an  established  master  is  required. 

Libraries,  8fc. — There  are  two  subscription  libraries  in  the  parish, 
consisting  of  books  of  history,  voyages,  travels,  &c.  There  is  one 
called  the  Mechanics'  Library,  and  there  is  another  consistmg  of 
religious  books  only.  The  subscription  to  the  three  former  is  Is. 
quarterly,  and  to  the  latter  Is.  yearly,  or  a  penny  per  month. 

There  are  two  pubhc  reading  rooms  in  the  parish,  where  most 
of  the  usual  newspapers  of  the  day  may  be  seen. 

The  only  friendly  societies  now  in  the  parish  are  those  among 
the  sailors,  the  maltmen,  and  the  bakers.  These  have  been  long 
in  existence,  at  least  two  hundred  years.  The  funds  belonging  to 
each  of  them  are  extensive,  and  are  entirely  devoted  to  the  support 
of  indigent  or  decayed  members. 

Savings'  Bank. — There  is  also  a  savings'  bank  in  Dysart,  the 
accumulated  fund  of  which  is  about  L.  1200.  The  deposits  in  it 
are  chiefly  from  the  labouring  classes. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
who  receive  aid  from  the  parish  funds  is  120,  and  the  average  al- 
lowance to  each  is  2s.  6d.  per  month.  In  some  cases,  however,  3s. 
or  4s.  are  given.  The  fund  is  made  up  by  collections  at  the  church 
door,  amounting  on  an  average  to  L.  90  per  annum;  by  seat  rents 
belonging  to  the  kirk-session,  amounting  to  about  L.  30  in  the  year ; 
and  by  an  annual  contribution  among  the  heritors,  which  varies  from 


DYSART.  145 

L.  150  to  L.  200  yearly.  Out  of  this  fund,  two  lunatics  are  sup- 
jjorted  in  an  asylum. 

It  must  be  admitted,  that  now  and  then  application  is  made  to 
the  kirk-session  for  parochial  aid,  which  they  cannot  sustain ;  yet 
there  is  no  particular  disposition  in  this  parish  to  seek  such  relief; 
and  it  IS  but  justice  to  mention,  that  there  are  many  instances  in 
which  widows,  with  large  families,  and  in  which  other  individuals, 
have  come  forward  and  thanked  the  kirk-session  for  what  had  been 
done  for  them  in  their  day  of  need,  and  have  respectfully  declined 
farther  assistance. 

Prison.— Bysart  cannot  certainly  boast  of  having  a  well-secured 
prison ;  but  there  is  seldom  a  prisoner  in  it. 

Fairs. — Formerly  there  were  six  annual  fairs  in  the  parish,  for  the 
sale  of  wool,  white  cloth,  hntseed,  and  black  cattle.  These  were  at- 
tended by  merchants  from  Glasgow,  Edinburgh,  and  Stirling. 
Now,  however,  little  remains  of  them  but  the  name.  They  are 
almost  completely  deserted. 

Inns. — There  are  by  far  too  many  public-houses  in  the  parish,  

not  fewer  than  150,— and  it  is  almost  needless  to  say,  that  their 
effects  upon  the  morals  of  the  people  are  most  pernicious. 

Fuel— Coal  is  in  great  abundance,  and  very  cheap.  Twelve  hun- 
dred weight,  including  carriage,  may  be  had' for  5s.  in  almost  any 
part  of  the  parish  ;  and  in  some  parts  of  it  for  less. 

.  Miscellaneous  Observations. 
The  most  striking  variations  betwixt  the  present  state  of  the  pa- 
rish and  that  which  existed  at  the  time  when  the  last  Statistical 
Account  was  made  out  are  these:  great  improvements  in  agricul- 
ture; much  waste  land  reclaimed,  drained,  and  embanked;  farm- 
buildings  greatly  improved;  almost  total  giving  up  of  the  nail  trade; 
and  prodigious  increase  of  the  manufacture  of  checks  and  ticks; 
comparatively  little  ship-building;  great  diminution  of  shipping! 
fairs  or  public  markets  given  up;  a  new  church  and  schoolhouse 
in  Dysart,  and  a  new  church  and  endowed  school  in  Pathhead;  a 
greatly  improved  harbour ;  the  erection  of  a  mill  for  spinning  flax ; 
a  patent  slip  for  repairing  vessels  of  large  tonnage ;  a  complete  and 
sate  harbour;  friendly  societies  diminished  in  number;  and  a  pros- 
perous savings'  bank.    Formerly  almost  every  female  was  taught  to 
■spm  Imt,  but  for  many  years  past,  this  practice  has  entirely  ceased. 

Revised  April  1836. 

FIFE.  J, 


PARISH  OF  ABBOTSHALL. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  CF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  MURRAY,  MINISTER. 


I —  Topography  and  Natural  History. 
The  whole  of  Abbotshall,  with  the  exception  of  three  farms, 
Easter  and  Wester  Touch,  belonging  to  Kinghorn,  and  Wester  Bo- 
gie to  Dysart,— was  disjoined  from  the  parish  of  Kirkaldy  m  the 
year  1650.* 

Name.— The  newly  erected  parish  was  called  Abbotsliall,  a 
name  obviously  derived  from  the  circumstance  of  one  of  the  ab- 
bots of  Dunfermline  having  built  a  house  here,  in  which  he  oc- 
casionally resided.  The  situation  of  the  house,  or  hall  of  the  ab- 
bot as  it  was  styled,  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  due  west  from 
the  present  church,  and  near  to  the  centre  of  the  Raith  gardens,  or 
what  are  still  sometimes  called  the  Abbotshall  gardens.  A  fine  yew 
tree  which  grew  in  front,  and  which  has  already  stood  the  blast  of 
centuries,  will  probably  long  serve  to  mark  out  to  the  inquirer  the 
spot  on  which  the  mansion  of  the  abbot  was  placed,  f 

•  This  disjunction  originated  in  an  application  made  to  the  P^^^yt^yy^l^y  several 
of  the  herito  s  of  the  landward  district  of  Kirkaldy,  in  consequence  of  the  great  ex. 
Ln  of  he  parish,  and  distance  of  a  considerable  part  of  it  from  tl-  f  ^urch,_pray.ng 
tha  they  would  appoint  some  of  (heir  number  to  visit  that  part  of  the  par  sh  and  re- 
port  whether  or  not  another  church  should  be  built.  ,  The  records  Pr"'')^;  ^  ^^^^^ 
that  thev  willingly  received  this  application,  and  appointed  certan  t''"^  ""^J;'"  *° 
visU  te'boundro^-  the  said  landward  district  and  to  report  ^1--  Judgmen  of  he  ne- 
cessitv  of  separating  it  from  the  other  part  of  the  parish  ;  as  also  what  u  as  the  fittest 
plaeeVhere'a  new  clurch  shouldbe  built,  in  the  event  of  .heir  opinion  b-ng  ta^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
to  the  disjunction.  It  also  appears  from  the  records  of  presbytery,  £  ^ate  October 
31st,  1649,  that  this  visitation  was  made,  and  that  a  report  was  given ^7°"'  "^^^^^ 
wishes  of  the  petitioners.  The  eonsequci.ee  was  that  the  presbyte,  >  '■^-"^"^^;\<^^^ 
to  the  Commissioners  of  Parliament  for  Su'-re"ders  and  I  ithes  tl  at  a  d.  jui.c^^^^ 
should  take  place,  which  the  commissioners  authorized,  and  the  whole  was  completed 

*f t:ii"af  tCe'the  lands  of  Abbotshall  ceased  to  be  the  property  of  the  Abb-y  ofl 
Dunfermline  we  are  not  aware,  but  it  appears  probable  that  tjey  w^^e  dispo  ed  rf^ 
about  the  same  time  (the  year  1430)  that  the  town  of  Kirkaldy         ands  t,,^^ 
immediate  neighbourhood  were  disponed  by  the  commendator  and  con>  cnt  to  t  e  oai 
"s  and  community  of  Kirkaldy.    Be  that  however,  -ay  |t  is  cen  m  ^^^^^^ 

Abbotshall  was  for  a  great  length  of  time  the  property  of        ^^""^      ^,  \ 
and  that  it  afterwards  became  the  property  of  the  Ramsays  (of  Ab^^o  ^^^^^^^^^^ 
Lid  it  to  the  ancestors  of  the  present  proprietor,  Mr  Ferguson  of  Raith.  air 
Kobert  SibbaWrin  his  History  of  Fife,  which  was  published  near  the  begmn.ng  of  last 


ABBOTSI-IALL. 


147 


Boundaries — Extent. — The  parish  being  a  good  deal  intersected 
by  other  parishes,  is  of  an  irregular  shape ;  but  its  greatest  length, 
from  the  coast  to  the  north-west,  is  not  less  than  4  miles,  and 
its  breadth,  which  varies  much  at  different  points,  may  average 
2.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  Kirkaldy;  on  the  south- 
east by  the  Frith  of  Forth ;  on  the  south-west  by  the  parish  of 
Kinghorn ;  and  on  the  north-west  by  that  of  Auchterderran.  The 
parish  of  Auchtertool  touches  it  on  the  west. 

Topographical  Appearances. — Along  the  coast,  the  grounds  are 
flat  and  level  to  the  distance  of  more  than  half  a-mile  from  the  sea, 
when  they  begin  to  rise  into  fine  sloping  banks,  with  occasional 
interruptions,  for  the  distance  of  three  miles;  afterwards  they  gra- 
dually descend  till  they  reach  the  extremity  of  the  parish. 

Soil,  Sfc. — The  soil,  as  may  be  expected,  is  different  in  different 
parts ;  but  on  the  average  is  greatly  superior  to  that  of  most  parishes  in 
Fife.  Near  the  sea  shore,  it  is  free  and  healthy,— being  very  ge- 
nerally the  soil  arising  from  decomposed  whin  or  trap  rock,  and  is 
particularly  favourable  for  raising  crops  of  barley  and  turnips.  Fur- 
ther back,  and  where  the  grounds  begin  to  ascend,  the  soil  is 
richer  and  stronger,  being  for  the  most  part  of  a  clayey  or  dark 
loamy  substance,  and  well  adapted  for  wheat,  beans,  and  other 
heavy  crops.  Towards  the  extreme  points,  and  farthest  from  the 
coast,  the  soil  is,  for  the  most  part,  of  a  cold  tiUy  bottom,  and  con- 
sequently less  productive.  It  is  very  susceptible,  however,  of  im- 
provement, and  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  coal  and  lime,  though 
less  favoured  in  regard  to  other  kinds  of  manure  than  the  rest  of  the 
parish. 

The  climate  throughout  the  whole  is  good,  and  no  diseases  of 
an  epidemic  nature  can  be  said  to  prevail.  To  this,  the  washing  of 
our  shores  by  the  Forth  twice  every  four  and  twenty  hours  doubt- 
less contributes,  as  well  as  the  many  dry  and  inviting  walks  on  all 
hands  within  reach  of  the  inhabitants.  At  present  the  parish  fur- 
nishes no  very  remarkable  instances  of  longevity;  but  there  are 
123  persons  who  have  outhved  three  score  years  and  ten,~of 
whom  24  are  upwards  of  eighty,  and  2  upwards  of  ninety.  The 
most  prevalent  winds  are  the  westerly,  and  the  quantity  of  rain  which 
tails  is  33  inches,  a  larger  quantity  than  usual,  31  inches  (accord- 

nrJ^hoisT-thll'l!'  '"^""""-house  of  Abbotshall  as  at  that  time  «  a  large  and  fine 
RamJay  a^d^Ee  rei^^^^^^  T"l  proprietor,  Mr  Andrew 

samTsn^ot  therp  k  r  °.  u  ""^"^  ''""'"'"2  """re  than  forty  ve^rs  ago,  on  the 
stood  '°  believe,  on  which  the  original  house  Jr  hall  of  the  abbot 


148 


FIl'RSMIUK 


ing  to  Sir  John  Sinclair)  being  the  average  tliat  fulls  in  the  course 
of  the  year  throughout  Scotland. 

Hydroyrapliy, —  There  is  no  stream  or  water  of  any  consequence 
running  through  or  connected  with  this  parish.  The  streamlet 
flowing  from  Loch  Gelly,  in  the  i)arish  of  Auchterderran,  and  which 
afterwards  falls  into  the  water  of  Oar  in  the  same  parish,  touches 
it  for  a  little  distance  on  the  north-west,  as  does  the  Tiel  on  the 
south-west,  and  both  waters  are  useful  in  turning  the  different  mills 
w  hich  are  situated  on  them.  The  small  brook  that  runs  from  Camilla 
Loch,  in  the  parish  of  Auchtertool,  also  bends  its  course  through 
this  parish,  where  it  joins  the  Tiel  previous  to  its  falling  into  the 
jsea  at  the  west  bridge.  In  its  way,  the  Camilla  stream  serves  as  the 
principal  feeder  to  that  beautiful  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Raith  Lake.  This  lake,  which  is  situated 
in  the  heart  of  the  Raith  pleasure-grounds,  and  at  the  hase  of  the 
hill  on  which  the  mansion-house  is  placed,  was  formed  by  the  pre- 
sent proprietor  in  the  year  1811-12,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  arti- 
ficial constructions  of  the  kind  that  is  anywhere  to  be  seen.  It  is 
somewhat  of  an  oval  form,  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  at  certain 
points  almost  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  The  extent  of  ground 
it  covers  is  not  less  than  twenty-one  acres,  and  the  water  is  at  some 
places  twenty-five  deep.  It  was  originally  an  extensive  hollow,  as  if 
scooped  out,  in  some  measure,  for  thepui-pose,  by  the  hand  of  nature; 
— and  by  filling  it  up  at  some  places,  and  deepening  and  extending  it 
at  others,  the  work  was  in  a  short  time  completed ;  a  sluice  is  left  at 
the  centre,  by  which  the  lake  can  be  filled  or  emptied  at  pleasure. 
The  whole  is  finished  in  a  masterly  and  ingenious  manner,  and  the 
expense  was  very  inconsiderable,  considering  the  surface  it  covers,  and 
the  quantity  of  water  it  contains.  The  lake  abounds  in  a  variety  of 
fishes,  such  as  trout,  perch,  tamel,  and  eel.  There  are  several  pleasure 
boats  on  it  belonging  to  the  family,  and  the  angler  may  find  abundance 
of  amusement.  It  is  graced  by  some  beautiful  white  swans,  which 
may  now  and  then  be  seen  floating  majestically  along,  and  wild 
ducks  are  flying  about  in  various  directions.  On  every  side,  the 
lake  is  surrounded  with  delightfulwalks, — which,  as  well  as  the  other 
walks  about  Raith,  are,  through  the  liberality  of  the  proprietor,  at 
all  times  accessible  to  the  more  respectable  portion  of  the  commu- 
nity. To  strangers  and  others,  who,  during  the  summer  and  au- 
tumn months,  come  from  different  quarters  of  the  country  to  view 
the  fine  scenery  and  highly  decorated  grounds  of  Railh,  the  lake 
is  a  principal  object  of  attraction  and  admiration, 

4 


ABBOTSIIALL 


MO 


Geohyij  and  Miner  alogi). — Thegfeater  partof'tliis  pai'ish,  in  com- 
moii  with  the  district  around  Kirkaldy,  is  composed  of  rocks  of  the 
two  great  formations,  that  of  the  carboniferous  hmestoneandthe  coal 
strata,  with  an  intermixture  of  trap  rock.    The  carboniferous  lime- 
stone is  well  displayed  in  the  quarry  of  Innertiel,  which,  although 
not  in  Abbotshall,  deserves  notice  in  this  place,  as  affording  the  best 
section  of  that  strata  which  runs  through  the  parish.   In  that  quarry, 
the  carboniferous  limestone  is  in  thick  beds,  with  interposed  seams 
of  dark-colom-ed  calcareous  shale.  The  limestone  is  quite  full  of  encri- 
nal  remains;  and  many  of  the  rarer  portions  of  encrinites,  viz.  the 
bases,  fingers,  and  even  the  bodies  in  a  pretty  perfect  state,  may  be 
extracted  from  the  loose  shale.  Trochites  shewing  great  variety  and 
delicacy  in  their  markings  are  also  abundant.   The  following  species 
of  encrinites  (following  the  nomenclature  of  Miller)  were  met  with, 
after  a  careful  search  in  the  shale,  by  a  scientific  friend  of  the  writer  of 
this  Account,  who  lately  resided  for  a  short  time  in  the  parish. — 
Cyathocrinitesplanus,  C.  tuber culatus,  C.ruffosus,  C.quinquangularis, 
Platycrinites  Icevis,  P.  rugosiis,  Poteriocrinites  tenuis,  and  Rhodocri- 
nites.  Of  all  these  Cyathocrinites  tulerculatus,  which  Miller  states  to 
be  rare  in  England,  was  the  most  common.  There  is,  in  the  limestone, 
also  abundance  of  Orthoceratites  and  Terehratulites,  and  a  variety  of 
other  shells.   The  Chapel  quarry,  which  is  the  principal  one  of  the 
kind  in  this  parish,  is  of  limestone  of  the  Same  formation,  and  exhibits 
large  encrinal  columns,  sometimes  an  inch  and  a-half  in  diameter, 
and  Orthoceratites  nearly  two  feet  long.     Some  rare  forms  of  cal- 
careous spar -are  also  to  be  met  with  in  cavities  in  the  limestone. 
The  carboniferous  limestone  is  much  interrupted  and  disturbed  by 
trap  rocks,  which  rise  here  and  there  to  the  surface.     Upon  it,  rest 
the  coal  strata  which  run  through  this  district,  and  which  contain 
valuable  seams  of  coal.    Amid  this  variety  of  fossils,  freestone  is 
also  to  be  met  with,  and  is  used  for  the  common  purposes  of  build- 
ing.   For  the  better  sort  of  houses,  however,  and  the  more  orna- 
mental parts  of  buildings,  the  Collelo  stone,  or  some  other  of  a  si- 
milar kind,  is  generally  preferred.   Coal  being  profitably  worked  by 
some  of  the  proprietors  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  there  are 
no  pits  open  at  present  in  this  parish.  The  inhabitants,  however,  are 
well  supplied  with  that  article  of  fuel,  and  at  an  easy  rate.  The 
nearest  colliery  is  that  at  the  l)ack  of  the  town  of  Kirkaldy,  belong- 
mg  to  Sir  John  Oswald,  where  the  price  of  coal  is  7s.  7d.  per  ton 
of  21  cwt.    At  the  colliery  of  Dysart,  belonging  to  the  Eari  of 
Rosslyn,  the  price  is  7s. ;  and  at  the  colliery  of  Cluny,  belonging  to 


150 


FIFESHIRE. 


Mr  Ferguson  of  RaitH,  the  price  is  6s.  5d.  The  Cluny  coal,' though 
the  most  distant,  is  generally  preferred.  The  price  of  lime  at  the 
different  quarries  is  from  2s.  to  2s.  4d.  per  boll  old  corn  firlot,  and 
the  quantity  sold  annually  is  very  considerable. 

Botany. — The  only  plants  that  may  be  called  rare  are  Campa- 
nula rapunculoides,  Listera  ovata,  and  Drosera  rotundifulia.  The 
first  of  these  is  to  be  found  on  the  farm  of  Balwearie,  the  others  on 
the  farm  of  Torbain. 

The  trees  most  commonly  to  be  met  with  are,  the  oak,  beech, 
sycamore,  chesnut,  spruce,  ash,  walnut,  elm,  larch,  Scotch  fir,  &c. 
all  of  which  thrive  well,  except  the  larch,  which  seems  impatient  of 
the  soil,  and  soon  becomes  chaffed,  and  sometimes  even  rotten  at 
the  heart,  against  its  thirtieth  year.  In  the  Raith  plantations,  all  these 
kinds  of  trees  and  many  more  are  to  be  seen  in  great  beauty  and 
perfection.  Immediately  in  front  of  the  mansion-house,  there  is 
a  fine  beech,  which  measures  in  circumference  14  feet;  on  the 
south  side  of  the  house,  there  are  two  chesnuts  likewise  of  large 
size  and  dimensions.  The  girth  of  the  one  is  11^  feet,  and  of  the 
other  9|.  A  hawthorn,  which  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  gar- 
den, is  well  worthy  of  notice,  being  of  great  age,  size,  and  beauty. 
Near  the  same  place,  and  about  twenty  yards  from  the  approach,  is 
to  be  seen  what  is  considered  the  purest  purple  beech  in  the  county. 
Evergreens  of  every  variety  thrive  well  about  Raith,  particularly  the 
Portugal  laurels,  many  of  which  form  fine  trees  of  5  feet  in  girth 
of  bole  and  upwards.  The  whole  of  the  plantations  there,  are  under 
a  good  system  of  management,  both  as  to  pruning  and  thinning, 
and  the  thinnings,  though  seldom  large,  are  readily  purchased  for 
the  excellent  quality  of  the  timber. 

II. —  Civil  History. 

Antiquities. — The  antiquities  of  the  parish  are  few  and  easily 
told.  On  Cormie  Hill,  or  that  eminence  on  which  the  Raith  Tower 
stands,  there  have  been  found,  at  different  places,  several  rude  stone 
coffins,  similar  to  what  have  been  found  in  other  parts  of  Scotland. 
Some  urns  have  also  been  dug  up  containing  human  bones.  On 
the  part  where  the  Tower  stands,  there  was  a  small  artificial  mound, 
on  removing  which  it  evidently  appeared  to  have  been  a  burnt  mould 
and  many  fragments  of  deers-horns  were  found  in  it.  From  seve- 
ral appearances,  this  hill  is  supposed  to  have  been  in  former  days  a 
military  station,  or  at  all  events  a  place  of  national  rendezvous. 

The  ruins  of  the  tower  of  Balwearie,  anciently  the  property  of  the  fa- 
mous wizard,  Sir  Michael  Scott,  are  still  preserved.  From  what  re- 

3 


ABBOTSHALL, 


151 


mains,  it  must  have  been  originally  of  great  strength,  and  of  con- 
siderable importance.  The  walls  measure  in  thickness  six  feet  and 
a-half,  and  the  dimensions  within  walls  are  thirty  feet.  It  is  reason- 
ably supposed  to  have  been  a  square.  All  that  is  now  preserved 
is  the  east  wall,<j,vhich  is  entire,  and  part  of  the  north  and  south 
walls.  The  lower  part  of  it  has  been  arched,  and  it  was  probably 
used  as  a  defence  for  cattle.  In  these  more  peaceable  times,  it  is 
used  for  feeding  cattle,  which  purpose  it  is  -made  to  answer  well. 
The  height  of  this  tower  or  castle  could  not  be  less  than  from  fifty 
to  sixty  feet.  On  the  roof  of  the  building,  according  to  tradition, 
the  white-haired  and  venerable  sage  was  accustomed  to  sit,  observ- 
ing the  face  of  the  heavens,  and  conversing  with  the  stars. 

Emineiit  Men. — Sir  Michael  Scott  was  born  at  Balwearie,*  accord- 
ing to  the  most  accredited  accounts,  near  the  beginning  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  and  from  his  earliest  youth  discovered  a  remarkable 
thirst  for  knowledge.  After  receiving  such  scanty  rudiments  of  educa- 
tion as  his  native  country  at  that  time  afforded,  he  went  into  Eng- 
land, where,  at  the  University  of  Oxford,  he  devoted  himself  with 
deep  apphcation  to  the  study  of  philosophy.  Completing  his  studies 
at  Oxford,  he  repaired,  according  to  the  fashion  of  the  age  in  which 
he  lived,  to  the  University  of  Paris,  where  he  prosecuted  with  so 
much  ardour  the  study  of  mathematics,  as  to  acquire  for  himself 
the  name  of  "  Michael  the  mathematician."    Nor  did  he,  in  the 
midst  of  these  avocations,  neglect  the  study  of  the  sacred  let- 
ters and  divinity;  but  gaining  in  these  branches  a  high  reputation, 
he  received  the  degree  of  Doctor  in  Theology.  With  these  learned 
distinctions,  Michael  Scott  determined  on  farther  travels,  and  visit- 
ed many  other  countries  and  universities.    Amongst  these,  he  first 
sought  the  far-famed  College  of  Padua,  where  such  appears  to  have 
been  the  impression  created  by  his  talents,  that  his  essays  were  no 
longer,  as  in  France,  confined  within  the  walls  of  a  university.  His 
fame  became  noised  abroad,  and  he  began  to  publish  to  the  world 
those  predictions  of  future  events,  which  were  remembered  in  later 
times  with  awe  and  reverence  in  Italy.f  From  Italy,  Michael  Scott, 

M  llff^rnrf  ^"^I'^'ng  to  Sibbald,  was  in  possession  of  the  family  of  Scott  for 
at  least  oOO  years.     To  the  same  family  belonged  also  Scotscraig  and  many  other 

Id  5  Scou%7Tntum^'^  '^""^  °' ^^^^-'-'^     '^'^  ^°  -p'-- 

his'^f.If '"f  °™"  t''^  '•'^P"t«l  prophet  was  gathered  to 

Iv  f,?fiir  '  ^  P^d^^'-o"  of  Michael  Scott's,  which  he  declares  had  been  rigid- 

Kin  his  Inferno"""     '  ^'^"^  "•'^''"''t^*'      ^  magician,  a  conspicuous 

"  Quel  altro  che  ne  fianclii  e  cosi  poco 

Michelc  Scoto  fu,  che  veramente 

Delle  magiche  frode  seppe  il  gioco."    Inferno,  Canto  20th. 


152 


FIFESIIIUK. 


still  iiiiweaned  in  the  pursuit  of  knowledge,  made  his  way  into  Spain, 
where,  at  the  University  of  Toledo,  he  had  the  best  opportunity  of 
cultivating  the  occult  sciences,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Emperor 
Frederick  the  Second.  Having  perfected  himself  in  the  study  of 
alchemy,  he  turned  his  thoughts  to  the  study  of  aaedicine,  and  for 
this  purpose  went  into  Germany,  where  he  resided  for  several  years 
previous  to  his  return  to  his  native  country.  He  arrived  in  Scotland 
just  at  that  critical  juncture  when  the  nation  was  plunged  into  grief 
by  the  death  of  Alexander  the  Third;  and,  along  with  Sir  David 
Wemyss  was  appointed  to  proceed  to  Norway  to  bring  home  the  young 
Queen, — the  result  of  which  expedition  is  well  known.  This  is  the 
last  occasion  in  which  the  name  of  Sir  Michael  Scott  appears  to 
be  mentioned.  Of  his  death  nothing  is  recorded ;  but  he  must  have 
died  soon  after  his  return  from  Norway,  and  in  extreme  old  age.  It  is 
a  curious  fact,  that  in  his  native  parish,  there  are  fewer  stories  current 
amongst  the  people  about  this  extraordinary  character,  and  his  name 
is  less  frequently  mentioned  than  in  most  other  parts  of  Scotland. 

"  Fama    -    --    --    --  -- 

Mobilitate  vigct,  vii  esque  acquiiit  euudo."' 

From  the  time  of  Michael  Scott,  there  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  any  character  of  note  connected  with  Abbotshall,  till  the 
year  1538,  when  we  find  Thomas  Scott,  f  a  Lord  of  Session,  un- 
der the  title  of  Lord  Abbotshall.  In  the  year  1671,  we  find  Sir 
Andrew  Ramsay  mentioned  as  a  Lord  of  Session,  under  the  same 
title.  Sir  Andrew  continued  to  hold  the  office  of  a  Judge  till  1674, 
during  which  time  he  was  twice  Provost  of  Edinburgh.  It  was 
while  he  filled  the  civic  chair  in  the  year  1667,  that  Charles  the 
Second  (by  whom  he  was  probably  knighted)  ordered  that  the  Pro- 
vost of  Edinburgh  should  take  the  same  precedency  as  the  Mayor 
of  London,  and  that  no  other  Provost  should  assume  the  title  of 
"  My  Lord."  Sir  Andrew  died,  and^  was  buried  at  Abbotshall  in 
1688.  t    In  the  year  1690,  we  find  George  Melville  of  Raith 

"  Sir  Walter  Scott  tells  us,  in  a  note  to  the  Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel,  in  which  ro- 
mantic poem  the  name  of  the  magician  is  embalmed,  that  amongst  the  peasantry  in  the 
south  of  Scotland,  any  work  of  great  labour  of  antiquity  is  ascribed  either  to  the  agency 
of  Auld  Michael,  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  or  the  Devil. 

t  This  Scott  was  doubtless  a  descendant  of  Sir  Michael  Scott.  Abbotshall,  Sib- 
bald  mentions  as  "  anciently  the  possession  of  the  Scotts  of  Balwearie."  Both  Bal- 
wearie  and  Abbotshall  have  long  since  formed  part  of  the  Raith  estate,  and  are  now 
of  course  the  property  of  Robert  Ferguson,  Esq.  of  Raith. 

J  Sir  Andrew  Ramsay  seems  to  have  purchased  Abbotshall  from  the  Scotts.  I\lr 
Andrew  Ramsay,  father  of  Sir  Andrew,  and  one  of  the  ministers  of  Edinburgli,  is 
noticed  as  having  died  at  his  son's  house  at  Abbotsliall  in  (lie  year  1G59;  thus  inti- 
mating, afj  it  were,  that  Sir  Andrew  Ramsay  was  the  (irst  of  the  name  to  whom  Ab- 
botshall belonged.  Sir  Andrew  was  succeeded  in  Abluitshall,  according  to  Sil)baid,  l)y 
liis  "  nevoy  Mr  Andrew  Ramsay,  and  a  grandson  of  the  Laird  of  Whitstoun  in  the 
M  earns." 


ABUOTSHALL. 


153 


mentioned  as  one  of  the  Peers  of  Scotland,  under  the  title  of  Lord 
Melville,  Lord  Raith,  Monymeal  and  Balwearie,  Viscount  Kirk- 
aldy,  and  Earl  of  Melville.  The  family  and  titles  are  now  merged 
in  that  of  Leven,  and  the  estate  of  Raith  soon  after  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  present  family. 

This  parish  had  the  honour  of  giving  birth  to  William  Adam,  who 
arrived  at  the  greatest  eminence  as  an  architect,  which  the  limited 
opportunities  at  that  time  afforded  by  his  native  country  would  per- 
mit. Hopetoun  House  and  the  Royal  Infirmary  of  Edinburgh,  the 
one  a  splendid,  the  other  a  plain  structure,  are  specimens  of  his 
abilities.  WiUiam  Adam,  it  need  hardly  be  mentioned,  was  the 
father  of  Robert  and  James  Adam,  still  more  distinguished  for  their 
genius  in  architecture,  and  who  reared  that  splendid  monument  of 
their  taste  and  names,  "  The  Adelphi."  The  family  is  now  repre- 
sented by  the  Honourable  William  Adam,  late  Chief- Commissioner 
of  the  Jury  Court. 

It  would  be  improper  to  omit,  that  that  distinguished  soldier  and 
patriot,  Sir  Ronald  C.  Ferguson,  is  a  native  of  this  place.  He  was 
born  at  Raith,  the  seat  of  his  family,  in  the  year  177L 

Land-otoners. — These  are  five  in  number,  and  two  of  them  have 
their  principal  residences  here.  Raith,  anciently  the  seat  and  posses- 
sion of  the  Earls  of  Melville,  now  the  property  of  Robert  Ferguson, 
Esq.  M.  P.  is  by  far  the  most  considerable  estate  in  the  parish, 
being  more  than  equal  in  value  and  extent  to  all  the  rest  of  the 
parish  together.    The  mansion-house  was  originally  built  in  the 
year  1694,  by  Lord  Raith,  Treasurer  Depute,  and  must  have  been 
at  that  time  a  substantial  good  house.    Its  length  is  72  feet,  and 
its  breadth  40.   To  the  original  house  were  added  two  wings,  dur- 
ing the  time  of  the  late  Mr  Ferguson,  which  made  the  accommo- 
dation veiy  complete,  and  such  as  became  the  mansion-house  of  so 
fine  an  estate  as  Raith.    A  few  years  ago,  the  present  proprietor 
attached  to  the  front  of  the  house  a  fine  Ionic  portico,  which  gives 
to  the  whole  a  light  and  elegant  appearance.    In  the  interior  of 
the  house,  what  principally  claims  attention  is  the  hbrary,  which 
contains  a  well  chosen  assortment  of  books,  both  ancient  and  mo- 
dern,—and  a  cabinet  of  minerals,  which,  for  richness  and  ex- 
tent, is  surpassed  by  few  private  collections  of  the  sort  in  the  king- 
dom.   The  situation  of  the  house  is  noble  and  commanding,  and 
the  extent  of  plantations  and  pleasure  grounds  which  surround 
It  IS  very  considerable.    Near  the  summit  of  the  hill  on  which  the 
mansion-house  is  seated,  and  perhaps  400  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  stands  the  tower,  which  is  a  square  building,  with  an  inside 


154 


FIFESHIRE. 


stair  of  54  feet  in  length.  From  the  top  of  this  tower  so  extensive 
IS  the  view,  that  not  less  than  parts  of  fourteen,  some  say  sixteen,  dif- 
ferent counties  can  be  distinctly  pointed  out  in  a  clear  day.  In  the 
near  vicinity  of  Raith,  and  a  little  further  up  the  country,  stands  the 
mansion-house  of  Wester  Bogie,  the  property  of  Miss  Thomson,  only 
child  of  the  late  James  Thomson,  Esq.  of  Wester  Bogie.  The  house 
of  Bogie  is  modern,  and  was  built  after  a  design  ])y  Mr  Gillespie  Gra- 
ham, in  the  form  of  a  eastle.  The  plan  of  building  is  well  suited 
to  the  situation,  which  is  high,  and  surrounded  with  some  fine  old 
trees.  The  extent  of  ground  is  limited ;  but,  for  its  size,  Bogie  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  desirable  properties  in  the  county.  * 

III. — Population. 

Population  in  1755,  .  1348 
1791,  .  2136 
1821,  .  3267 
1831,       .  4206 

The  number  of  inhabitants  residing  in  towns  is       .         .         .         .  3607 

in  villages,           .           .           ,  197 

in  the  country,          .          .          .  4O8 

Number  of  persons  under  15  years  of  age,                .          .          .  1618 

between  15  and  30,               ....  18'''0 

30  and  50,          ....  930 

50  and  70,               ....  515 

upwards  of  70,       .         .           .           .           .  ]  03 

of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  upwards  of  50,       .  49 

of  women,  maids,  and  widows  above  45,               .                 .  HI 

of  families  in  the  parish,             .....  942 

Average  number  of  children  to  each  family,  .  ...  4 

The  number  (if  inhabited  houses  is                     ....  494 

of  houses  uninhabited  or  now  building,             ...  2 

of  insane  persons,                .....  2 

of  blind,            .......  3 

of  deaf  and  dumb,                •           ;           .           ,           .  1 

The  following  table  gives  a  pretty  accurate  division  of  the  inha- 
bitants according  to  their  respective  occupations  in  life. 

Proprietors  residing  occasionally,  2 ;  non-residing,  3,  .  .  .  5 

Proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards  in  other  parishes, 

but  residing  here,  3 
Number  of  wholesale  merchants  and  capitalists,  ...  25 

clergy  and  other  professional  men,  ...  .5 

farmers,        .  .  .  .  .  .  .  13 

cottars,  ......  -42 

farm- servants,  ......  50 

men  employed  in  manufactures  or  making  machinery  ;  masters,    ,  2.3 

workmen,  56 

weavers ;  beads  of  families,  208  ;  apprentices  and  journeymen,  288,  496 
men  employed  in  retail,  trade,  or  in  handicraft,  masters,  .  110 

workmen,       .  137 

labourers,  not  agricultural,        .  .  .  .  .120 

miners,        .......  21 

fishers,  43 
male-servants  above  20,  17  ;  do.  under  20,  2,  .  .  19 

*  Bogie  was  formerly  the  property  of  Sir  James  Wemyss  of  Bogie. 


ABBOTSHALL. 


155 


Number  of  female  servants,  .  ....  102 

weavers'  looms  in  the  parish,  ....  506 

of  these  not  working,  .  •  •  .  .  53 

In  manners,  the  inhabitants  of  the  parish  are  civil  and  discreet, 
and  their  external  deportment  is  decent  and  respectful.  They  are 
inquisitive  and  fond  of  knowledge,  and  reading  occupies  a  conside- 
rable portion  of  their  leisure  time.  What  relates  to  politics  and  re- 
ligion chiefly  engages  their  attention,  in  this  way.  They  are  fond 
of  speculation  in  the  one,  and  of  controversy  in  the  other.*  Notwith- 
standing, they  are  good  and  peaceable  subjects,  and  live  together  in 
friendly  and  Christian  intercourse, 

'  IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

The  number  of  Scots  acres  in  the  parish,       .  3166 
under  tillage,       .  2631 
■    under  wood,        .  535 

They  are  thus  divided  : 

Acres.  Roods.  Falls.  Acres 
Mr  Ferguson  of  Raith  has, in  culture,  1444  0  0  in  wood  457 
Sir  J.  Oswald,.  .  .  447         1       35  4 

J.  W.  Melville  of  Bennochy,  .        202        0  7 

J.  A.  Thomson  of  Charleton,        .  379         0         0  58 

Miss  Thomson  of  Bogie,  .  159        0        0  16 

263]        2        2  535" 

Rent  of  Land.— The  land' rents  are  different  in  different  parts. 
On  the  coast  and  about  the  town  L.  5,  and  even  L.  6  per  acre  are  no- 
thing uncommon  to  pay  for  land.  Further  back,  and  a  little  way 
up  the  country,  the  rent  may  be  from  L.  2,  10s.  to  L.  3  per  acre, 
and  in  the  more  remote  parts,  the  land  rents  are  as  low  as  L.  1,  10s. 
and  L.  1.  The  average  of  the  whole  may  be  L.  2,  10s.  The 
valued  rental  of  the  parish  is  L.  798,  9s.  9d.  The  real  rental  may 
be  about  L.  7500. 

Husbandry.—The  rotation  of  crops  generally  practised  is  sum- 
mer fallow  or  potatoes,  after  which  comes  wheat,  then  beans  dril- 
led and  hoed,  or  grass  pastured  two  years,  or  the  first  year  hay, 
and  the  second  pasture.  Grass  is  generally  succeeded  by  a  crop 
of  oats.  The  rotation,  however,  necessarily  varies  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, and  the  taste  of  the  grower ;  but,  with  a  very  few  excep- 
tions, the  alternate  cultivation  of  leguminous  and  culmiferous  crops  is 
strictly  adhered  to ;  and  so  superior,  indeed,  is  this  method  of  cropping 
to  that  anciently  used,  of  taking  successive  corn  crops,  until  poverty 

•  Within  these  few  yearSf  several  controversial  writings  on  rehVious  tonics  have 

ted  hnlvr  r  ?  ""ft'""'  °f  It  i«  certainly  to  be  regret- 

sho'iidTal,  'ff th  '^'Tf""  ''^^  °f        ^"'1  "■^'^l'^^^  disputation, 

should  call  off  the  attention  of  individuals  from  their  honest  and  lawful  vocations. 


150 


FIFESHIRIi. 


and  weeds  liad  oained  full  jjossession  of  the  soil,  that  one  would 
imagine  that  nothing  but  the  most  imperative  necessity  or  the  woi  st 
motives  should  induce  a  farmer  to  depart  from  it.  In  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  the  town,  summer  fallow  is  now  little  practised,  and 
potatos  generally  come  instead,* — a  crop  which  always  meets  with 
a  constant  and  ready  demand.  Turnips,  too,  are  very  frequently 
substituted  for  beans, — after  which,  uniformly  follows  a  crop  of  bar- 
ley. Throughout  the  whole  of  this  parish,  agricultural  operations  are 
carried  on  with  spirit  and  assiduity,  and  nowhere  during  the  last 
forty  years  has  the  face  of  the  country  undergone  a  greater  change. 
The  farmers  are,  generally  spealcing,  men  of  capital-and  skill,  and 
there  is  no  tried  improvement  in  modern  farming  which  has  not 
been  adopted  and  pursued  with  success.  The  situation  of  the 
parish  is  favourable  for  agricultural  improvement  and  enterprise. 
The  populous  community  of  Kirkaldy,  with  its  weekly  markets,  makes 
a  ready  demand  for  all  kinds  of  farm  produce,  and  there  is  no  part 
of  the  parish  distant  from  coal  and  lime.  To  those  near  the  towns, 
the  stables  and  streets  afford  a  regular  supply  of  dung  at  a  mode- 
rate expense;  and  sea- weed  is  occasionally  to  be  had  for  the  trouble 
of  collecting  and  driving.  But  if  the  farmers  in  this  parish  are  thus 
favoured  in  regard  to  situation,  they  are  no  less  so  in  regard  to  their 
respective  landlords,  who  are  men  of  liberality  and  discernment,  and 
afford  every  encouragement  to  honest  and  persevering  industry. 
The  farms  are  all  of  that  size  which  is  favourable  to  improvement, 
and  the  leases  are  uniformly  of  nineteen  years  duration,  -f-  The 
dwelling-houses  and  offices  are  likewise  good,  and  for  the  most  part 
new,  and  the  fields  are  all  well  enclosed  and  subdivided  with  stone 
walls  or  hedges. 

There  are  no  sheep  bred  in  this  parish,  and  none  to  be  seen  in 
it  except  a  few  scores  kept  in  the  enclosures  about  Raith,  and  be- 
longing to  Mr  Ferguson.  They  are  of  the  Cheviot  breed,  and 
seem  to  thrive  well  on  the  fine  pasture  on  which  they  are  fed. 
There  are  also  but  few  black-cattle  reared  in  this  parish, — the  land 
being  too  valuable  to  be  kept  long  in  pasture.  Those  preferred 
are  of  the  Fife  breed,  which,  in  their  pure  state,  are  known  by  their 
black  colour,  length  and  fineness  of  their  horns,  shortness  of  their 

•  The  profit  arising  in  the  neiglibourhood  of  the  town  is  very  great; — L.  12,  L.  Ifi. 
1j.'20,  and  sometimes  even  L.  24  per  acre  have  been  received  tor  potalos,  before  thov 
have  been  dug  up. 

f  To  this,  tlio  (iekis  in  the  neiglibourhood  of  the  town  form  an  exception, — which 
are  frequently  parcelled  out  for  the  convenience  of  persons  residing  in  the  town,  who 
wish  to  cultivate  only  a  few  acres,  and  are  generally  let  from  year  to  year  witlioul 
any  lease  or  written  agreement. 


A13B0TSHALL. 


157 


legs,  and  beautiful  symmetry.  Tiie  pure  Fife  breed,  however,  is 
seldom  met  with,  and  the  cattle  reared  in  this  parish  are  for  the 
most  part  a  mixture  of  the  Fife  and  Angus  or  Ayrshire.  The 
amount  of  bestial  at  present  in  the  parish  is  as  follows  :  horses  of 
all  ages,  114;  milch  cows,  104;  black  cattle,  203;  calves,  30; 
pigs,  81. 

Manufactures. — The  staple  manufacture  of  this  place  is  that  of 
bed-ticks;  to  which,  of  late  years,  has  been  added  a  species  of  coarse 
half-white  hnen  called  Dowlas,  both  for  home  and  export  trade. 
Linen  checks  for  foreign  consumpt  have  fallen  into  decay,  from 
the  greater  cheapness  of  a  similar  fabric  now  made  from  cotton  in 
other  places.  There  is  one  manufactory  for  sail-canvas;  one  bleach- 
field  for  whitening  and  preparing  hnen  yarns, — a  branch  of  trade  that 
has  of  late  years  entirely  superseded  the  use  of  hand-wheels,  which 
were  formerly  so  common  in  this  and  all  other  districts  of  Fifeshire, 
and  which  gave  employment  both  to  the  older  and  younger  members  of 
families.  The  introduction  of  machinery  into  this  branch  of  manu- 
fticture  has  not  only  materially  increased  the  quantity,  but  has  con- 
siderably diminished  the  expence  of  labour,  it  being  produced  at 
about  two-thirds  less  than  when  spun  by  the  hand  labour.  There 
is  one  factory,  worked  by  a  steam  engine,  for  weaving  a  thin  sheet- 
ing from  linen  yarn.   It  is  considered  to  be  well  conducted,  and  is 
the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  the  county.    The  low  rate  of  weaving 
by  the  hand  is  probably  the  cause  why  this  branch  of  enterprise 
has  not  been  more  generally  adopted.    A  brick  and  tyle-work  of 
considerable  extent  has  been  very  long  estabhshed  in  this  parish. 
At  the  same  place,  a  pottery  for  maldng  brown  earthen-ware  is  ear- 
ned on.    A  coal  gas-work,  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  town 
of  Kirkaldy,  Linktown  of  Abbotshall,  &c.  with  gas,  was  erected  in 
this  parish,  about  two  years  ago.   The  quality  of  gas  is  considered 
good,  and  the  quantity  used  throughout  the  year  may  average  5000 
feet  each  night,  llie  work  is  capable  of  affording  a  much  greater 
supply ;  but  as  yet  gas  has  not  been  introduced  as  a  general  light  for 
dwelling-houses,— being  principally  used  for  the  lighting  up  of 
streets,  public  works,  and  shops.  There  are  a  variety  of  mills  which 
go  by  water,  and  are  employed  for  making  flour,  barley  meal,  &c.  At 
one  of  these,  not  less  than  from  10,000  to  15,000  bolls  annually  are 
made.  There  is  also  one  mill  which  goes  by  water  for  grinding  flint, 
and  belongs  to  the  same  gentleman  that  has  the  pottery.  Brew- 
mg  was  formerly  carried  on  to  some  extent,  but  now  there  are  on- 
ly two  breweries  in  the  parish,  which  manufacture  nothing  strong. 


158 


FIFESHIRE. 


er  than  small  beer.  This  is  certainly  to  be  regretted,  as  good  malt 
liquor  is  a  more  wholesome  beverage  than  whisky,  which  is  now  so 
common,  and  the  cause  of  so  much  wretchedness  and  crime.  The 
hig  h  price  of  wheaten  bread  gave  rise,  a  number  of  years,  ago  to  the 
establishment  of  two  Societies,  by  which  the  inhabitants  might  be 
supplied  with  that  important  article  of  life  at  a  cheaper  rate  than  by  the 
regular  bakers.  In  so  far  as  the  cheapness  of  the  bread  is  concerned, 
these  societies  have  answered  the  purpose  intended;  but  if  it  be  the 
case,  as  some  allege,  that  they  have  been  the  means  of  depreciating 
the  quality  of  bread  throughout  the  community  (the  regular  trader 
being  unable  to  compete  on  equal  terms  with  a  joint  stock  company) 
it  is  not  so  evident  how  far  they  ought  to  be  encouraged,  or  whether 
in  one  way  they  have  not  done  as  much  harm  as  they  have  done 
good  in  another.  There  is  also  a  meal  Society  on  a  similar  plan, 
which  is  of  advantage  to  the  public,  by  affording  a  ready  supply  of 
meal  at  all  times,  and  generally  at  a  reasonable  price. 

In  the  conducting  of  the  different  public  works  in  this  parish,  there 
is  nothing  particular  claiming  to  be  noticed.  The  usual  hours  of  la- 
bour at  all  of  them  are  ten,  excepting  the  spinning-mills,  where 
twelve  hours  are  common.  All  the  people  employed  at  the  diffe- 
rent works  receive  a  fair  remuneration  for  their  labour,  and,  if  care- 
ful, live  comfortably,  and  frequently  rear  large  families.  The  wages 
of  certain  operatives,  however,  have  of  late  years  been  much  re- 
duced. An  ordinary  weaver,  for  instance,  on  the  best  paid  fabrics, 
will  not  receive  above  an  average  of  8s.  per  week  for  his  own  labour. 
None  of  the  public  works  here  are  considered  prejudicial  to  the  health 
of  those  employed  in  them;  the  linen  manufacture  in  all  its  branch- 
es being  more  wholesome  than  that  of  cotton,  from  the  absence  of 
any  artificial  heat  or  damp.  Although  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the 
congregating  together  of  so  many  young  people  of  both  sexes  at 
spinning-mills  and  other  public  works,  naturally  tends  to  a  corrup- 
tion and  depravity  of  morals,  yet  it  can  hardly  be  said  that  the  mo- 
rals of  those  so  employed  are  worse  than  the  morals  of  the  aggre- 
gate number  of  others  in  the  same  grade  of  society  in  the  parish. 
This  may  be  owing  to  the  steady  principle  of  the  gentlemen  to 
whom  the  works  belong,  and  the  good  discipline  introduced  by 
them  into  all  the  different  departments  of  the  business.  The  in- 
crease of  commerce  and  manufactures  in  this  parish  and  neighbour- 
hood gave  rise,  in  the  year  1 825,  to  a  Society  known  by  the  name 
of  the  Kirkaldy  Chamber  of  Commerce, — the  intention  of  which 
was  to  unite  the  influence  of  the  merchants  and  manufactures,  and 


ABBOTSHALL. 


159 


tluis  render  them  more  useful  to  the  communities  to  which  they  be- 
longed. It  is  managed  by  a  committee  of  directors ;  and  some  of 
the  leading  members  belong  to  this  place. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Villages. — The  principal  town  or  village  in  the  parish  is  what  is 
called  the  Linktown,  which  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  of 
Kirkaldy,  from  which  it  is  only  separated  by  the  intervening  beach. 
The  Linktown  has  only  one  street,  which  is  about  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  long,  and  forms  a  continuation  on  the  west  to  the  principal 
street  of  the  town  of  Kirkaldy.  It  is  a  burgh  of  regality,  and  go- 
verned by  a  baron-bailie,  appointed  by  Mr  Ferguson  of  Raith,  who 
is  superior  of  the  whole. 

The  street  and  the  lanes  of  Linktown  are  narrow,  and  the 
original  houses  are  mostly  low  and  uncomfortable.  Many  of  the 
houses,  however,  have  been  rebuilt,  and  many  new  ones  erected  ; 
all  of  them,  in  point  of  convenience  and  accommodation,  far  exceed- 
ing the  old  ones.  Some  of  the  principal  manufacturers  in  the  pa- 
rish reside  in  Linktown,  and,  according  to  their  success  in  business, 
it  must  prosper  or  decline.  About  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  at  a 
proper  distance  from  the  street,  stands  the  mansion-house  of  John 
Pratt,  Esq.  of  Glentarkie,  surrounded  with  its  fine  garden  and  shrub- 
beries, and  which  is  at  once  a  credit  and  an  ornament  to  the  place. 
There  are  a  few  very  good  shops  in  this  part  of  the  parish,  and 
more  of  an  inferior  description,  which  supply  the  inhabitants  with 
the  necessaries  and  conveniences  of  life.  Two  annual  fairs  of  old 
standing  are  still  held  here,  one  on  the  third  Friday  of  April,  and 
the  other  on  the  third  Friday  of  October.  The  spring  fair  was 
formerly  principally  kept  up  by  the  sale  of  lintseed ;  and  the  autumn 
fair,  by  the  sale  of  black-cattle.  Both  fairs  are  now  on  the  decline, 
and  the  principal  commodity  at  each  of  them  is  shoes,  which  are 
frequently  brought  from  a  considerable  distance,  and  sold  at  very 
low  prices.  In  the  Linktown,  there  is  a  jail  or  rather  lock-up-house, 
to  which  the  baron  bailie  has  the  power  of  consigning  offenders.  It 
is  in  bad  repair  and  little  used. 

The  flourishing  condition  of  trade  and  consequent  increase  of 
inhabitants  induced  the  late  Mr  Ferguson  of  Raith,  about  the  year 
1790,  to  feu  property  for  building  on  a  regular  plan  a  street  run- 
ning nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  east  end  of  Linktown,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  parish  church.  This  line  of  building,  which  has  never 
been  completed,  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  New  Tawn,  and 
contains  about  780  inhabitants,  of  whom,  with  the  exception  of  a 


FIFESIIIKK. 


few  respectable  families,  almost  all  are  operative  weavers.  Here  are 
situated  the  spinning-mills  of  Mr  James  Aytoun,  a  gentleman  of 
much  enterprise  and  usefulness  in  the  place.  At  Mr  Aytoun's 
mills,  not  less  than  120  individuals  are  constantly  and  regularly  em- 
ployed. There  are,  besides  the  Linktownand  New  Town,  several  vil- 
lages in  the  country  district  of  the  parish,  of  minor  note,  contiiining 
in  all  about  197  souls. 

Means  of  Communication. — To  all  parts  of  the  parish  Kirkaldy  is 
the  post-town.  It  may  also  be  said  to  be  the  principal  market-place, 
where  all  the  necessaries  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  life  may  be  had 
of  the  best  description,  and  on  reasonable  terms.  Throughout  the 
whole  of  the  parish,  there  is  an  easy  communication  by  good  roads, 
which  are  always  kept  in  good  repair.  The  turnpike  roads  may  be 
about  twelve  miles  in  different  directions,  and  the  statute  labour  roads 
about  two.  There  are  three  bridges  in  the  parish ;  one  of  them 
lately  built,  find  the  other  two  in  tolerable  condition,  besides  seve- 
ral small  arches  of  less  consequence.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary 
carriages  which  frequent  the  different  roads,  there  are  three  four- 
horse  coaches  which  run  daily  through  our  streets  from  Edinburgh 
to  Dundee,  and  four  coaches  of  the  same  description  from  Dun- 
dee to  Edinburgh  ;  a  two-horse  coach  from  the  east  of  Fife  to  Edin- 
burgh and  back  again ;  and  a  two-horse  coach  which  runs  from 
Glasgow  to  Kirkaldy,  and  from  Kirkaldy  to  Glasgow,  every  lawftd 
day  alternately. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— It  does  not  distinctly  appear  where  the  in- 
habitants of  this  parish  first  assembled  for  public  worship ;  but  it 
was  probably  in  some  place  connected  with  the  old  mansion-house 
of  Abbotshall.  The  date  of  the  last  church,  which  was  the  only 
one  previous  to  the  present,  is  1674,  twenty-four  years  after  Ab- 
botshall became  a  separate  parish.  The  present  church  was  built 
in  the  year  1788,  and  on  the  same  spot  on  which  the  former  stood. 
It  is  a  substantial  and  comfortable  edifice,  though  now  too  small 
for  the  increased  population.  The  situation  of  the  church,  which 
is  on  an  eminence  at  the  back  of  the  town,  is  very  pretty,  though 
not  very  convenient  for  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants.  It  is  neverthe- 
less well  attended,  and  the  congregation  is  very  respectable.  The 
average  number  of  communicants  is  nearly  700.  There  are  no 
free  sittings.  The  Laird  of  Raith  is  patron  by  a  charter  granted 
by  the  Crown  so  far  back  as  the  time  of  Charles  II.  The  manse 
was  built  in  the  year  1772,  and  is  the  first  that  was  in  the  parish.  Till 
that  time,  the  clergyman  had  an  allowance  of  only  L.  5  for  a  house. 


ABBOTSHALL.  [Q[ 

An  awkward  addition  of  two  good  rooms  was  made  to  the  manse, 
at  the  induction  of  the  last  incumbent,  now  upwards  of  twenty  years 
ago,  at  an  expense  fully  equal  to  the  half  of  what  it  would  have 
cost  to  build  a  substantial  new  house.  The  house  has  ever  since  been 
in  need  of  repair  of  some  Idnd  or  other.  An  addition  was  made  to  the 
offices  attached  to  the  manse,  in  the  course  of  last  spring,  which  ren- 
ders them  very  comfortable.   The  stipend  annexed  to  the  cure  by 
decreet  of  the  Court  of  Teinds  in  1811,  is  100  bolls,  2  firlots,  2 
pecks,  3  lippies  of  barley ;  88  bolls,  2  firlots,  2  pecks,  3  lippies  of 
meal ;  36  bolls  of  oats,  and  such  a  further  quantity  of  victual,  half 
meal,  half  barley,  as  shall  be  equal  to  100  merks  Scots  money,  to- 
gether with  L,  100  Scots  money  for  communion  elements.  The 
stipend  awarded  by  the  Court  has  never  been  realized,  owing  to  a 
deficiency  of  teind,  and  the  clergyman  has  never  been  paid  more 
than  a  sum  equal  to  13^  chalders,  out  of  which  he  has  to  defray  the 
expense  of  communion  elements, — a  sum  totally  inadequate  to  the 
nature  of  the  situation  and  the  great  population  of  the  parish.  The 
glebe  consists,  of  61  acres,  and  is  worth  about  L.  30  Sterhng  per 
annum,  although  it  has  sometimes  been  let  for  more.* 

Besides  the  Established  Church,  there  is  one  dissenting  or  Se- 
ceding chapel,  now  in  connection  with  the  United  Associate  Synod. 
The  congregation  belonging  to  it  was  originally  formed  for  the  re- 
ception of  Mr  Thomas  Nairne  to  be  their  pastor,  who,  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned,  was  deposed  from  being  minister  of  Abbotshall 
in  1740,  in  consequence  of  espousing  the  principles  of  the  old 
dissenters,  relative  to  the  existing  civil  government.    Mr  Nairne 
afterwards  withdrew  from  the  communion  of  the  Seceders,  and 
joined  the  Reformed  Presbytery.    He  at  length  deserted  their'com- 
munion,  and  returned  to  the  fellowship  of  the  Estabhshed  Church, 
after  making  humiliating  confessions  to  the  presbytery  of  Kirkaldy,' 

•  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  different  clergymen  who  have  successivplv  fillo^  ,h 
cure  at  Abbotshall,  with  the  date  of  their  adm^ion,  &c.  so  for  L  can  bSeemted 

t'^  tm'Z%''T''''°'r^^^^^  The  first  found  on  re 

cord  IS  Mr  1  atrick  Wemyss,  who  was  orda  ned  November  4  Ifi^iO     Wo  1, 

son  of  the  Laird  of  Foodie.    Mr  Wemyss  became  a  l3ed  prop,  ietor  ^Lrwh  h 
I'^f^'^T '°  'h'^  "Jni^try-    The  next  mentioned  is  M°  Robert  Foi 

rest  m  1664.    Mr  John  Bowes  was  deposed  from  the  ministry  at  Abbotshall  on  th^ 
loth  October  1691  for  heterodoxy  in  opposing  the  Assembly's  Catfchis"r  M;  Alex 
ander  Fraser  was  admitted  3th  January  1692rand  seems  to  have  died  Tn  1709  Mv 
EwL^r"""'  September  1710,  and  was  deposed  i,  l 740  for ^d 

henng  to  the  secession,  which  was  begun  by  Erskine  and  MoncriefT     M.  r 
Gib  was  admitted  1742,  and  died  176^  Alexander^ierrvral  SmiU  d  Marlh 

nTdi::i^~i809'  '  M^'w'lf-^  George'shaw  was  S^d^769 

died  TuLiS^fiA  Anderson  was  admitted  August  1810,  and 

1826  incumbent  was  admitted  in  the  end  of  March 

FIFE. 


1G2 


FIFESIIIRE. 


and  submitting  to  their  admonitions.  In  1831  the  old  house 
belonging  to  this  congregation  was  razed  to  the  ground,  and  a  com- 
modious new  one  built  near  the  same  spot.  The  minister's  sa- 
lary is  L.  125  per  annum,  besides  a  good  house  and  garden.  His 
salary  is  paid  from  the  seat  rents,  &c.  Till  lately,  there  ex- 
isted a  remnant  of  that  old  sect  of  Christians,  the  Cameronians, 
or  Mountaineers  as  they  were  sometimes  termed.  The  house  or 
rather  barn  in  which  they  assembled  is  now  occupied  by  a  hand- 
ful of  individuals,  who  call  themselves  Christians  ;  but  what  their 
particular  tenets  are,  the  writer  of  this  account  has  not  been  able 
to  learn.  They  have  no  stated  pastor,  and  are  irregularly  supplied 
with  sermon  by  itinerant  preachers  of  various  descriptions.  There 
are  some  Baptists  and  Independents,  and  also  a  few  Episcopalians 
who  have  their  places  of  worship  at  Kirkaldy.  A  very  few  indi- 
viduals attend  a  Relief  meeting  at  Dysart,  and  it  is  beUeved  there 
are  two  or  three  individuals  of  the  Roman  Catholic  persuasion,  na- 
tives of  the  sister  isle. 

The  only  general  parochial  society  for  religious  purposes  is  what 
is  designated  "  The  Abbotshall  Bible  Society,"  the  sole  object  of 
which  is  the  raising  of  a  fund  for  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures. 
It  is  managed  by  a  committee  chosen  from  amongst  various  classes 
of  Christians,  who  adopt  whatever  measures  they  consider  best  cal- 
culated to  promote  the  object  of  the  society.  An  annual  sermon  is 
preached  for  the  benefit  of  its  funds,  alternately  in  the  parish  church 
and  dissenting  meeting-house,  which,  together  with  the  other  stated 
contributions,  may  bring  about  L.  10  or  L.  15  per  annum. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  number  of  poor  in  this  parish 
is  very  considerable.  Abbotshall  proceeds  upon  the  good  old  plan 
of  supporting  the  poor,  so  far  as  is  practicable  in  so  populous  a  pa- 
rish, and  exhibits  a  proof  of  the  excellency  of  the  system.  The 
funds  are  made  up  of  the  collections  at  the  church  doors, — rents 
of  a  few  pews  in  the  church  belonging  to  the  session, — and  a 
small  annual  contribution  made  by  the  heritors.  The  whole  dis- 
bursements to  the  poor  do  not,  on  an  average,  exceed  L.  130  per  ^ 
annum.  There  are  at  present  12  ordinary  poor  on  the  Session  roll, 
and  7  extraordinary, — all  of  whom  are  supplied  weekly  according 
to  their  several  necessities.  In  addition  to  each  of  these  weekly 
allowances,  each  of  the  poor  on  the  session  roll  receives  twice  in 
the  year,  a  certain  sum  to  assist  in  paying  house  rent,  and.  provid- 
ing coals.  Several  others  who  have  not  as  yet  been  admitted  on  the 
roll,  receive  occasional  assistance.  Many  more  are  prevented  from 


ABBOTSHALL.  163 

becoming  burdens  on  the  parish,  by  the  hberaUty  of  the  Raith  fa- 
mily, to  whom  the  poor  of  this  parish  are  under  many  obhgations. 
The  distributions  are  managed  by  the  kirk-session  without  any  ex- 
pense to  the  fund,  except  a  small  pittance  to  the  session-clerk.  The 
minister  has  always  acted  as  treasurer,  without  fee  or  reward.  The 
whole  disbursements  are  examined,  every  year,  at  a  meeting  com- 
posed jointly  of  heritors  and  minister, — a  practice  which  is  satis- 
factory to  all  parties,  and  by  which  any  subject  which  seems  to  be  of 
importance  to  the  interests  of  the  parish  can  be  considered  with  ad- 
vantage and  effect.    There  are  only  two  or  three  poor  belonging  to 
the  parish  that  beg  within  its  bounds.    These  are  supplied  with 
badges  by  a  society,  which  was  formed  about  a  year  ago,  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  vagrant  begging,  which  the  inhabitants  of  this 
parish  formerly  felt  as  a  great  nuisance.   Were  a  society  of  this  na- 
ture formed  in  every  parish,  and  none  allowed  to  beg  but  those  poor 
belonging  to  it ;  the  real  objects  of  charity  would  be  much  better 
provided  for  than  they  generally  are,  and  much  idleness  and  wor- 
thlessness  prevented. 

Education. — The  total  number  of  schools  in  the  parish  is  6, 
— which  may  be  attended,  at  an  average,  by  500  children. .  The 
parochial  school  has  generally  attending  it  from  150  to  200,  and 
sometimes  upwards.     The  branches  therein  taught  are  Latin, 
French,  mathematics,  arithmetic,  navigation,  English  reading  and 
writing.    The  schoolmaster's  salary  is-  the  maximum,  and  he  has 
L.  5  more  for  teaching  a  hmited  number  of  poor  children.  This 
sum  is  the  interest  of  L.  100  which  was  bequeathed  for  the  pur- 
pose by  a  Mrs  Dundas,  who  once  resided  at  Raith.    At  the  other 
schools,  the  more  common  branches  of  education  are  almost  solely 
taught,  and  the  fees  for  these  branches  are  perhaps  a  little  less  than 
at  the  parish  school.    At  one  of  the  schools,  which  is  entirely  a 
charity  school,  the  branches  taught  are  specified  by  the  will  of  the 
donor.    The  number  of  the  children  (100,)  as  well  as  their  ages 
(from  six  to  fifteen,)  *  are  also  prescribed.    Sunday  schools  have 

"  1  /  J'^'scha'-ity^^''  bequeathed  by  the  late  Robert  Philp,  Esq.  of  Edenshead  who 
left  his  whole  fortune,  equal  to  not  less  than  L.  70,000  orL  80^00 ierW  1 1 l  e 

sart' TbbLtf'Tr"^  V-""'." "  """Jl^'^''  °^  P^"«^es  of  Kirkafdy"  Dy! 

r^ent^Pn  K^"?''"™-    The  schools  in  each  district  are  under  the  manage- 

ment of  a  committee  appointed  by  the  inhabitants  from  amongst  themselves,  and  fhe 
whole  are  subject  to  the  control  and  direction  of  a  set  of  governors  in  KiSy  some 

siulv  Entluh  •'^'^  "^'^'^'r       th^^e  different  schools  receive,  which  is 

wi?h  boK  '^^^'""S^ynt^ng,  and  arithmetic,  they  are  furnished  from  the  funds 
Td  with  nWr^^*;,'  P-"'  '"u ''^"^^  t'^''*  V^r^os^,.  They  are  moreover  provid- 
ea  with  clothing  during  their  continuance  at  school ;  and  on  leaving  school  they  re- 


1G4 


FIFESHIRR. 


been  for  a  considerable  time  established  both  in  the  town  and 
country  part  of  the  parish;  institutions  that  have  become  the  more 
necessary  since  the  introduction  of  spinning  mills,  which  engage 
children  before  they  have  been  properly  educated,  and  which  con- 
stantly occupy  their  time  throughout  the  week.  The  people  in  ge- 
neral are  alive  to  the  benefits  of  education,  and,  with  a  few  excep- 
tions, give  their  children  an  education  according  to  their  respective 
circumstances.  It  may  be  remarked,  that  amongst  all  classes  here, 
as  well,  indeed,  as  in  the  whole  of  this  neighbourhood,  classical  edu- 
cation is  much  less  an  object  of  attention  than  formerly.  This  evi- 
dently arises  from  the  mercantile  spirit  of  the  people,  which  leads 
them  too  little  to  value  any  acquisition,  but  as  it  connects  itself  im- 
mediately with  pounds,  shillings,  and  pence.  The  consequence  is, 
that  from  this  community  there  are  comparatively  very  few  young 
men  sent  to  the  university,  or  destined  for  any  of  the  learned  pro- 
fessions. Last  winter  there  was  only  one  young  man  from  this  pa- 
rish attending  a  university,  and  seldom  at  any  time  is  there  more 
than  two  or  three. 

Literature. — There  are  no  public  libraries  in  this  parish,  except 
one  of  an  inferior  description  At  Kirkaldy,  however,  there  is  a 
good  suscription  library,  a  circulating  library,  and  mechanics'  libra- 
ry, all  of  which  are  open  to  the  inhabitants  of  Abbotshall  on  the 
same  terms  as  to  the  inhabitants  of  Kirkaldy.  To  Kirkaldy  the 
inhabitants  of  this  parish  are  likewise  indebted  for  a  public  reading 
room,  which  is  well  supplied  with  the  newspapers  of  the  day,  to- 
gether with  the  army,  navy,  and  commercial  lists,  &c.  &c. 

Inns. — The  number  of  hcensed  alehouses  in  the  parish  is  nearly 
30,  a  number  by  far  too  large,  and  which  certainly  ought  to  be 
reduced.  Restraint,  too,  ought  to  be  put  upon  them  as  to  the 
hours  during  which  they  ought  to  be  kept  open.  The  justices  have 
power  to  do  both.  "^1  he  steady  exertion  of  these  powers  is  what  is 
wanting. 

ceive  a  sum  between  L.  2  and  L.  5,  or  whatever  more  the  fund  will  afford,  the  better 
to  enable  them  to  begin  the  world.  Of  the  advantages  to  be  derived  by  the  different 
parishes  from  this  large  and  benevolent  bequest,  it  is  impossible  yet  to  speak  with  any 
precision.  'J"he  schools  have  been  established  little  more  than  a  year,  and  all  that  can 
be  said  is,  that  the  funds  are  managed  with  fidelity  and  economy, — that  zealous  and 
efficient  teachers  have  been  appointed,  and  that  the  children  are  well  taught  in  those 
branches  which  they  are  allowed  by  the  will  of  the  donor  to  learn.  A  few  years  more 
will  probably  tell  whether  these  institutions  have  not  been  the  means  of  introducing 
info  the  different  jjarishes  in  which  they  are  established  a  number  of  poor  families,  who 
will  soon  obtain  a  legal  claim  to  be  supported  by  other  funds  besides  those  appro- 
priated for  educating  and  clothing  their  starving  children,  "  Where  the  carcase  is, 
(here  will  the  eagles  be  gathered  together." 


AIJCHTEllDERRAN.  105 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
It  is  obvious  to  the  most  cursory  observer,  that  since  the  last 
Statistical  Account  was  pubHshed,  this  parish  has  made  great  pro- 
gress in  agriculture,  commerce,  and  all  those  various  improvements 
connected  with  them.     The  consequence  is,  that  wealth  is  much 
more  generally  diffused,  and  all  classes  enjoy  in  a  greater  degree 
than  formerly  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of  hfe.    What  must 
ever  be  best  calculated  to  promote  the  happiness  of  the  labouring 
classes  is,  to  improve  their  morals,  and  to  found  their  virtue  on  its 
true  basis,  religion,  not  on  metaphysical  speculation,  or  the  nice 
formed  theories  of  state  policy,  but  on  the  grand,  solid,  and  substan- 
tial principles  of  Christianity.    This  will  be  found  in  the  end  not 
only  the  best  means  of  promoting  the  individual  happiness  of  the 
people,  but  the  true  secret  of  good  government, — the  surest  bulwark 
of  the  state. 

Revised  April  1836. 

P.  S. — Even  since  the  above  was  written,  it  is  necessary  to  state 
that  the  parish  has  undergone  many  important  alterations.  Trade 
•has  increased  considerably,  and  so  has  the  population.  The  num- 
ber of  poor  has  in  consequence  increased,  and  of  course  the  expen- 
diture in  behalf  of  the  poor.  The  congregation  which  met  in  the 
place  of  worship  formerly  belonging  to  the  Cameronians  is  now  dis- 
persed, and  the  house  converted  into  a  warehouse  for  flax.  A  new 
church  in  connection  with  the  EstabHshment  is  in  the  course  of 
erection,  to  supply  the  surplus  population  of  this  and  the  neigh- 
bouring parish  of  Kinghorn. 


PARISH  OF  AUCHTERDERRAN. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ANDREW  MURRAY,  D.  D.  MINISTER. 


I.— Topography  and  Natural  History 
Boundaries-Extent.~Ti^,s  parish  is  of  an  irregular  form,  about 

Au^^  f  by  Auchtertool  on  the 

south ;  Abbotshallon  the  south-east;  Dysart  on  the  east  and  south  • 
ivinglassie  and  Portmoak  on  the  north;  and  Ballingry  on  the  west. 


16G 


FIFESHIRE. 


Soil,  4  c.— The  greater  part  of  the  soil  is  clay,  with  a  mixture 
of  sand :  the  rest  is  black  earth,  commonly  on  whinstone.  The 
ground  of  Lochgelly,  cultivated  to  the  top,  is  620  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  while  other  parts  of  the  parish  to  the  east  and  north 
do  not  exceed  200  feet  in  height,  and  even  less.    The  chmate  is 
damp  and  variable.    The  lake  of  Lochgelly  is  three  miles  in  cir- 
cumference.   The  scenery  on  the  north,  presenting  banks  of  wood 
and  rich  enclosures,  is  beautiful.    On  the  other  sides,  the  scene  is 
bleak,  and  might  be  much  improved  by  plantations.    The  Ore 
rising,  in  the  west,  in  the  parish  of  Ballingry  runs  through  the 
whole  length  of  this  parish,  and  through  the  parishes  of  Kinglas- 
sie,  Dysart,  and  Markinch,  till  it  goes  into  the  river  Leven,  about 
two  or  three  miles  before  the  united  stream  enters  the  Frith  of 
Forth  at  the  town  of  Leven.     The  Ore  has  everywhere  a  flat 
course,  and  is  a  muddy  stream  of  no  great  depth.    It  has,  withm 
this  parish  two  bridges  over  it,  each  of  one  arch. 

IL — Civil  History. 
Land-owners.— There  are  11  heritors  each  having  a  rental 
above  L.  50  per  annum.  There  are  seven  cess  feuars,  two  of  whom 
have  each  a  feu  rented  above  L.  50  per  annum. 

Parochial  Registers.— ^e  have  registers  of  baptisms  and  mar- 
riages only.  They  commence  at  the  beginning  of  last  century. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  General  Assembly,  and  the  other  pubhc 
bodies,  will  be  successful  in  bringing  the  defective  state  of  the 
Scottish  registers  before  Parliament. 

III. — Population. 
From  the  time  of  Dr  Webster's  Report,  till  that  of  the  former 
Statistical  Account,  the  population  was  almost  stationary,— varymg 
only  betwixt  1194  and  1200.    The  population  in  1821  was  1488 ; 
in  1831,  1590. 

By  my  last  report,  the  village  of  Lochgelly  contained  342 ;  it 
now  contains  612,  so  that,  although  our  general  population  has  in- 
creased 100,  yet  the  country  part  of  the  population  has  dimmish- 
ed.  Lochgelly  is  our  only  village.  By  the  census  of  1831,  the 
males  are  786,  the  females  804. 

Mr  Malthus,  the  political  economist,  when  reading  in  my  former 
report,  the  hardships  represented  in  the  situation  of  our  married 
labourers,  wishes  to  change  the  following  sentence,  viz.  "  That 
people  continue  to  enter  voluntarily  upon  such  a  hard  situation, 
shews  how  much  the  union  of  the  sexes  and  the  love  of  indepen- 
dence  are  principles  of  human  nature."    Upon  this  Mr  Malthus 


AUCHTERDERIIAN. 


167 


remarks,  "  The  gentleman  should  have  said,  instead  of  the  love  of 
independence,  the  love  of  progeny."  But  I  feel  inclined  still  to 
adhere  to  my  own  version.  In  that  class,  the  love  of  progeny  does 
not  appear  to  be  either  intense  or  even  very  general,  but  the  de- 
sire of  procuring  that  independence  which  consists  in  having  their 
own  house,  their  own  fireside,  their  own  little  domestic  society,  &c. 
seems  to  influence  them  generally,  and  in  a  great  degree. 

Poaching  and  snaring  are  far  from  being  unknown  here.  A 
little  Highland  whisky,  I  believe,  is  occasionally  smuggled,  although 
we  have  far  too  much  of  our  own  production. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — We  have  no  undivided  commons,  nor  any  ground 
altogether  waste.  All  is  applied  to  culture,  to  pasture,  planting, 
buildings,  yards,  mines,  quarries,  courts,  roads,  water-courses. 
There  is  a  great  deal  of  wood  in  the  parish ;  and  if  all  our  planta- 
tions could  have  been  laid  out  upon  one  general  improved  plan,  we 
might  have  had  nearly  all  the  wood  necessary  either  for  shelter  or 
ornament.  There  remains,  however,  still  unplanted  the  large  den 
of  Cardon,  a  mile  long,  and  of  considerable  width,  and  of  such 
depth  and  goodness  of  soil  as  would  grow  all  the  most  valuable 
kinds  of  timber.  We  have  all  the  common  sorts  of  wood.  Al- 
most all  our  trees  have  been  planted.  Fife  in  general  has  very 
little  natural  wood  remaining.  The  management  of  woods,  though 
censiderably  improved  of  late,  is  still  defective.  There  is  a  neglect 
of  thinning,  felling,  pruning,  and  enclosing.  Sir  Gilbert  Elliot, 
Treasurer  to  the  Navy,  and  John  Sinclair,  Esq.  of  Balgregie,  were 
our  first  planters  upon  a  large  scale.  The  best  wooded  properties 
are  those  of  Lord  Minto,  containing  102  Scotch  acres;  Robert 
Ferguson  of  Raith,  73  acres,  3  roods,  9  falls;  Mrs  Sinclair's  of 
Balgregie,  50  do. ;  Mr  Reddie,  Redhouse,  30  do. ;  and  Malcolme 
of  Balbedie,  the  exact  number  not  ascertained.  The  number  of 
Scotch  acres  in  plantation  over  the  parish  is  about  500.  Our 
plantations  have  suffered  by  the  planters  sometimes  neglecting  to 
suit  the  species  of  tree  to  the  quahty  of  the  ground. 

Bent  of  Land.— The  average  rent  of  arable  land  is,  per  Scotch  acre, 
L.  1,  4s. ;  the  average  rent  of  grazing  a  cow  or  ox  L.  3  for  the  sea™ 


son. 


Rate  of  Wages,  ^-c— Day  labour  rose  during  the  late  war,  from 
Is.  to  2s.  6d.  and  3s.  a-day.  It  is  now  Is.  6d.  When  maintain- 
ed by  the  employer,  a  woman  is  at  present  hired  for  L.  6  for  the 
year,  and  a  man  for  L.  12.    Artisans  get  12s.  or  14s,  a  week. 


1(58 


riFESHIRE. 


Hard  wood  costs  2s.  per  cubic  foot ;  fir,  Ls.  per  ditto;  flax,  10s. 
per  stone ;  cheese,  28s.  per  cwt. ;  butter,  L.  4  per  ditto  ;  mason 
M'ork,  L.  1,  10s.  per  rood. 

Husbandry. — The  Fife  breed  of  black  cattle,  which  is  an  excel- 
lent one,  is  kept  up  here,  but  not  with  the  care  which  it  requires, 
in  cultivating  the  true  breed,  and  keeping  it  separate  from  bad 
varieties.    For  droving  and  feeding  for  the  home  market  we  are 
well  provided  ;  but  there  is  no  system  observed  in  breeding  for  the 
dairy,  and  our  milch  cows  are  inferior.    Our  draught  horses  are 
of  a  good  kind,  neither  too  light  nor  too  heavy.    We  breed  no 
sheep.    The  kind  of  mixed  farming,  which  is  practised  here,  be- 
twixt the  arable  and  pasture,  requires  a  greater  proportion  of 
green  crops,  especially  of  turnip,  than  we  yet  have ;  but  the  space 
allotted  to  turnips  and  potatoes  is  increasing ;  and  draining,  so  ge- 
nerally practised,  will  prove  the  best  means  of  procuring  an  addi- 
tional quantity  of  dry  ground  for  these  crops.    In  under  drain- 
ing, we  put  into  the  trench  a  mass  of  stones,  two  feet  in  depth,  hav- 
ing a  siver.    The  depth  of  the  trench  is  commonly  three  or  four 
feet ;  but  this  varies  with  circumstances.  The  stones  are  not  brought 
nearer  the  surface  than  a  foot.    In  some  districts,  the  stones  are 
thrown  into  the  opening  without  any  order,  and  without  a  siver. 
This  is  said  to  hinder  vermin  from  getting  in ;  but  it  requires  a 
far  greater  quantity  of  stones  than  the  other  practice,  which  we  pre- 
fer. Wedge-draining  is  as  yet  but  little  practised.  While  drain- 
age is  universally  practised,  embanking  and  irrigation  are  but  little 
used.    There  has  just  been  finished  a  small  embankment  upon  the 
Ore ;  and  at  another  place,  the  bed  of  the  river  has  been  straighted. 
Leases  are  generally  for  nineteen  years.    Our  farms  are  in  size 
from  50  to  300  Scotch  acres.    Enclosures  are  universal  over  the 
parish  ;  and  where  good  stone  can  easily  be  procured,  as  here,  this 
method  of  enclosing,  though  not  so  pleasing  to  the  eye,  is  more 
substantial  and  cheaper,  and  more  quickly  got  up  than  hedge- 
rows.   From  80.  to  90  years  ago,  Mr  Sinclair  of  Balgregie  enclos- 
ed his  home  farm  with  substantial  trap  or  Galloway  dikes ;  and 
this  kind  of  enclosure  has  been  generally  followed  since,  as  best 
suited  to  this  district.  Our  farm-steads  have  been  much  improved ; 
and  those  on  the  property  of  Captain  Wemyss  and  Mr  Ferguson 
of  Raith  are  the  best,  and  perhaps  as  good  as  the  farms  call  for. 

The  late  Lord  Minto  introduced  over  his  whole  property  an  im- 
proved state  of  husbandry,  from  Roxburghshire,  about  twenty  years 
ago.   David  Wemyss,  Esq.  of  Pitkenny,  when  he  became  posses- 


AUCHTERDERRAN. 


1G9 


sed  of  his  property  in  this  parish,  found  it  in  a  very  rugged  and  un- 
productive condition,  yet  capable  of  right  culture,  and  of  produc- 
ing good  crops.  With  other  proprietors,  he  took  an  active  part 
in  deepening  and  straighting  a  burn,  which  obstructed  the  agri- 
culture of  a  large  district,  and  affected  the  whole  of  the  north 
side  of  his  property.  Here  he  succeeded  completely,  by  drain- 
ing effectually  the  parts  contiguous  to  the  burn,  and  also  by 
providing  sufficient  levels  for  all  the  other  arrangements.  The 
chief  ingredient  of  the  soil  is  clay.  The  surface  was  a  good  deal 
encumbered  with  stones,  many  of  them  of  an  unwieldy  size, 
but  all  obstacles  have  been  surmounted,  and  by  a  liberal  encou- 
ragement to  his  tenants,  and  by  a  judicious  superintendence,  the 
farms  are  well  drained,  well  enclosed,  and  well  cultivated.  Up- 
wards of  twenty  years  ago,  the  late  J,  Reddie,  Esq.  of  Redhouse, 
planted  a  large  piece  of  peat  moss,  of  about  fifteen  Scotch  acres 
with  Scotch  firs.  The  ground  was  previously  drained  and  levelled  ; 
and  although  the  moss  be  in  several  places  upwards  of  seven  feet 
deep,  of  a  substance  entirely  moss,  yet  the  trees  have  thriven,  and 
now  the  place  formerly  so  gloomy  and  ugly,  presents  a  pleasant 
prospect  of  verdure  and  utility ;  and  the  surrounding  grounds,  for- 
merly marshy  and  insalubrious,  are  become  wholesome. 

A  good  many  years  ago,  Robert  Ferguson,  Esq.  of  Raith,  took 
under  his  management  a  tract  of  ground,  at  that  time  remarkably 
ugly,  almost  waste,  and  very  unproductive.  This  he  has  converted 
into  an  arable  farm,  and  adorned  with  thriving  plantations.  The 
farm  itself  is  well  enclosed,  well  cultivated,  and  very  productive. 
It  rents,  I  understand,  at  the  rate  of  L.  1,  5s.  the  acre.  The  extent 
is  200  acres ;  and  it  is  pleasant  to  learn,  that  while  the  country  is 
hereby  improved,  the  original  improver  has  already  been  indemni- 
fied for  outlays,  and  continues  to  draw  very  good  interest  for  his 
money.  The  name  of  the  farm  is  East  Garden,  What  a  benefit 
to  a  country  are  resident  proprietors  ! 
Produce. — 

Potatoes,  160  acres  Scots,  at  40  bolls  per  acre. 
Turnips,  160  acres. 

Hay,  water  meadow,  100  acres,  at  150  stone  per  acre. 

Pasture,  one-third  of  the  whole  parish;  the  other  two-thirds 
(with  the  above  deductions,)  grow  wheat,  barley,  pease  and  beans, 
and  oats.  The  quantity  of  oats  sown  amounts  to  perhaps  more 
than  that  of  all  the  other  grains. 

Quarries.— We  have  good  limestone  quarries,  and  coal  is  found 


170 


FIFESHIIIE. 


in  every  quarter  of  the  parish.  The  average  output  of  the  Cluny 
coal,  belonging  to  R.  Ferguson,  Esq.  Raith,  has  been  for  the  last 
four  years:  Great  coal,  per  year,  70,499  loads,  sold  at  lid.  per 
load, — 22  stone  Dutch  each  load,  or  24  stone  1  pound  English  ; 
the  whole  sold  for  home  consumption.  Above  and  under  ground, 
at  the  colliery,  74  hands  at  present  are  employed,  including  men 
and  boys.  The  quantity  just  now  thrown  out  at  Lord  Minto's 
coal  work,  Lochgelly,  is  900  loads  per  week,  21  stone  Dutch,  at 
lid.  per  load;  also  400  ditto,  chews,  8d.  per  load ;  exported  300 
loads  per  week.  Men  employed,  32  colliers ;  women,  12,  under 
ground;  men,  7,  above  ground.  The  quantity  now  brought  up 
from  Robert  Wardlaw  Ramsay's  coal-work,  Dundonald,  is  133 
loads  per  week,  at  8d.  of  22  stone  Dutch ;  the  men  employed  7. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

The  chief  village  is  Lochgelly.  We  have  now  useful  metalled 
roads  in  various  directions.  The  lines  have  not  been  well  chosen  ; 
but  we  are  thankful  for  the  roads  as  they  are.  In  the  present  de- 
pressed state  of  agriculture,  nothing  but  the  improvement  of  roads 
could  have  kept  us  up. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  central.  It  was  built 
in  1789 ;  the  manse  in  1784.  There  are  no  free  sittings.  The 
heritors  divide  the  area,  according  to  their  valued  rent,  among 
their  dependents.  The  glebe  is  14^  Scotch  acres  in  extent,  and, 
including  the  glebe,  the  living  is  about  L.  300  a-year.  The  pay- 
ment of  the  grain  of  stipends  by  the  county  fiars  is  an  excellent 
arrangement.  At  present,  the  average  number  of  communicants  at 
the  Established  Church  is  300.  All  our  dissenters  are  Presby- 
terians :  and  there  is  a  meeting-house  at  Lochgelly.  About  one- 
half  of  the  population  is  dissenting  or  seceding. 

Education. — There  are  three  schools  within  the  parish,  and  a 
border  school;  one  is  the  parish  school,  the  other  two  village 
schools.  The  parish  schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary,  and 
the  required  accommodations.  The  border  school,  supplied  with 
more  than  one-half  of  its  scholars  from  this  parish,  has  upwards  of 
50  scholars.  The  other  two  have  about  70  each  :  and  the  mas- 
ters have  no  salaries.  The  parish  school  has  at  present  upwards 
of  90  scholars ;  the  wages  2s.,  2s.  6d.,  and  3s.  per  quarter.  Clas- 
sical learning  is  little  in  request,  even  in  the  parish  school.  The 
branches  commonly  taught  are,  English,  grammatically,  the  English 
Bible,  English  collections,  writing,  accounts,  a  religious  catechism, 


AUCHTERDERRAN. 


171 


geometry,  mensuration,  geography,  navigation,  book-keeping, 
church  music.  Considering  their  moderate  means,  the  parents  are 
remarkably  anxious  to  procure  education  for  their  children,  and 
none  of  these  grow  up  without  being  put  to  school.  Our  paro- 
chial schools  have  been  much  improved  by  the  augmenting  of  the 
salaries, — a  measure  equally  wise  and  benevolent. 

Savinffs  Bank. — A  savings  bank  has  been  kept  in  this  parish  ever 
since  that  kind  of  institution  was  introduced  into  Scotland.  It  was 
for  some  years  managed  by  Mr  Greig,  the  dissenting  minister  of 
Lochgelly,  and  myself  jointly.  Upon  Mr  Greig's  death  the  ma- 
nagement devolved  wholly  upon  my  family.  The  amount  of  de- 
posits has  varied  from  L.  900  to  L.  400.  The  persons  depositing 
are  all  of  the  industrious  and  poorer  classes.  The  sums  deposited 
are  sometimes  as  low  as  L.  1,  and  never  of  great  amount.  They 
are  deposited  with  the  Kirkaldy  branch  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland. 
It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  sort  of  institution  has  not  become  more 
prevalent.  Perhaps  it  would  become  more  prevalent,  if,  instead 
of  dividing  into  single  parishes,  a  number  of  parishes  were  group- 
ed together,  such  as  those  of  a  presbytery  or  a  small  county.  The 
small  county  of  Kinross  carries  on  with  success  a  county  savings 
bank,  kept  at  the  county  town. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — Our  poor  are  supplied  from  our 
collections  at  the  church,  and  from  the  interest  derived  from  a  sum 
of  money  (about  L.  700)  in  the  management  of  the  kirk-session. 
But  though  our  collections  have  increased,  yet,  for  the  last  two 
years,  the  interest  of  our  money  has  decreased  in  a  greater  propor- 
tion. Yet  we  are  averse  to  frequent  assessments ;  for  although  our 
heritors  are  well  inclined  to  our  poor,  we  think  it  would  not  prove 
ultimately  for  the  pubhc  benefit  to  apply  often  to  this  resource.  Dur- 
ing my  long  incumbency  we  have  had  only  three  assessments  on 
the  heritors  for  the  poor,  and  these  were  for  very  moderate  sums. 
■Our  number  of  poor  upon  the  monthly  list  runs  from  15  to 
22  families.  To  each  of  these  families  the  kirk-session  distri- 
butes monthly  3s.  at  an  average.  But  our  greatest  disburse- 
ments the  session  reserves  for  occasional  charities,  for  sickness,  for 
severe  accidents,  for  house  rents,  for  school  wages  to  poor  children, 
for  defraying  the  expenses  of  patients  going  and  coming  to  or  from 
an  infirmary,  &c.  Every  individual  case  is  inquired  into,  and  care- 
fully judged  of  by  the  session. 

Alehouses. — We  have  12  of  these  in  the  parish. 


172 


FIFKSHIKE. 


Miscellaneous  Observations. 
I  mentioned  in  my  last  report,  that  a  turnpike  road,  running  from 
east  to  west  through  this  district,  had  been  projected,  and  even 
at  that  time  had  obtained  the  sanction  of  Parhament ;  but  it  has 
never  been  executed.  It  was  to  run  from  the  Plasterers'  Inn  on  the 
Leven  to  Kirk  of  Beath.  It  was  to  give  a  shorter  and  better  line 
of  travelling  towards  St  Andrews,  Dundee,  Cupar,  on  the  one 
hand,  and  towards  Queensferry,  Dunfermline,  Edinburgh,  Glas- 
gow, on  the  other.  Several  roads  have  since  been  made  here  with 
various  views,  but  none  directly  or  properly  laying  open  this  great 
thoroughfare.  Were  the  lines  now  referred  to  adopted,  the  other 
roads  would  fall  into  country  bye  roads.  It  is  surprising  how  slow- 
ly even  in  this  mercantile  country  improved  lines  of  communica- 
tion are  adopted.  But  this  direction  of  road  will,  from  its  obvious 
benefits,  still  force  itself  upon  the  public  attention. 

Another  turnpike  still  more  universally  important,  running  from 
south  to  north,  and  crossing  the  above  at  right  angles,  is  projected, 
and  engrosses  much  attention.  It  is  proposed  to  carry  this  road 
from  Burntisland  to  the  Inn  of  Farg  in  Strathearn,  there  to  join 
the  great  Queensferry  and  Perth  road.  From  Burntisland  the 
line  runs  on  to  Auchtertool,  from  Auchtertool  to  Auchterderran, 
from  Auchterderran  to  Portmoak,  passing  the  east  end  of  Loch- 
leven  near  to  Scotland  Well.  From  this,  the  line  runs  through 
part  of  Strathmiglo  parish,  near  to  Edenhead  and  to  the  old  castle 
of  Balvaird,  and  then  joins  the  Queensferry  and  Perth  road  near 
the  Inn  of  Farg.  Whoever  casts  his  eye  upon  a  map  will  per- 
ceive how  much  space  is  cut  off  by  this  line,  compared  to  that 
round  by  Queensferry.    The  district  is  also  much  more  level. 

From  the  day  when  it  was  first  ascertained  that  steam-vessels 
could  with  advantage  ply  the  Frith  of  Forth,  this  road  might 
have  been  expected  to  commence.  But  it  was  iimnediately  found 
that,  to  have  the  benefit  of  such  a  road,  a  low  water  pier  would  be. 
necessary  at  Burntisland,  and  this  became  a  preliminary  obstruc- 
tion which  has  not  yet  been  surmounted.  If  we  compare  the  outlay 
that  would  be  necessary  for  this  plan  of  road  to  the  inn  of  Farg,  with 
outlays  made  upon  other  great  roads  and  works,  it  appears  compa- 
ratively trifling.  The  new  road  from  Glasgow  to  Carlisle,  for  in- 
stance, is  said  to  have  cost  upwards  of  L.  60,000.  This  Fife  road 
could  be  executed  for  less  than  a  third  of  that  sum  :  yet  the  city  of 
Glasgow  alone  derives  almost  all  the  benefit  from  that  conveyance, 
whereas  here  all  Scotland  north  of  Forth  would  be  essentially  be- 


AUCHTERDERRAN. 


173 


nefited  by  rendering  their  travelling  to  Edinburgh  and  London, 
and  all  the  south-east  parts  of  the  island  shorter,  far  more  speedy 
and  pleasant, — not  to  speak  of  the  great  local  advantages  that 
would  attend  it. 

It  has  not  yet  been  ascertained  by  experiment  whether,  from 
our  clayey  close-bottomed  strong  soil,  spade  culture  could,  with 
a  sure  prospect  of  remuneration,  be  introduced  into  general  practice 
in  farming.  From  the  effects  produced  by  this  practice  on  our 
kitchen  gardens,  we  have  the  fullest  conviction,  that  the  crops 
thus  raised  are  far  better  than  those  from  the  plough  furrow. 

We  sow  our  grains  earlier  than  formerly,  particularly  barley,  which 
was  wont  to  be  sown  in  May,  but  now  generally  in  April ;  and  ex- 
perience confirms  the  advantage  of  the  change.  -  There  is  a  full 
crop,  and  the  grain  is  weightier  and  better  ripened. 

Drunkenness,  formerly  rare,  is  now  lamentably  frequent, — Forty 
years  ago,  emigration  was  thought  of  with  much  reluctance ;  now 
the  predilection  for  the  native  spot  has  diminished,  and  emigration 
is  more  readily  embraced. — Forty  years  ago,  we  were  accustomed  to 
regard  increase  of  population  as  increase  of  national  prosperity ;  now 
such  increase  seems  regarded  as  an  obstruction. — 'Forty  years  ago 
we  had  no  medical  gentlemen  in  the  parish ;  at  present  two  are 
resident. — Since  the  draining  of  our  soil  and  marshes  obtained,  the 
heron  has  nearly  disappeared,  and  since  our  district  became  wood- 
ed, pheasants  have  reached  our  latitude. — Forty  years  ago,  ser- 
vants  for  husbandry  were  few  in  number,  at  present  they  seem  re- 
dundant.— Formerly  coal-hewers  were  inferior  to  other  classes  in 
morals  and  respectability,  here  they  are  now  nearly  on  a  level.— 
Forty,  nay  twenty,  years  ago,  we  had  not  one  metalled  road,  now  we 
have  several. — Forty  years  ago,  irregularity,  multipUcity  and  con- 
fusion of  weights  and  measures  pervaded  all  transactions,  now  we 
have  one  philosophical  and  just  standard.— Forty  years  ago,  the 
ministers  of  the  Established  Church  generally  delivered  all  their 
discourses  from  the  pulpit  without  reading ;  now  they  are  general- 
ly read — Forty  years  ago,  land  was  sold  in  Fife  at  thirty-five  years' 
purchase  of  the  existing  rental,  now  it  sells  at  twenty-six  years'  pur- 
chase of  the  present  rental. 

The  valued  rent  of  this  parish  is  upwards  of  L.  7000  Scotch. 
The  present  real  rent  is  about  L.  7000  Sterling.— Forty  years  ago, 
rents  were  all  paid  here  in  money ;  now  they  begin  to  be  paid  in 
gram,  at  the  rate  of  the  county  fiars. — Forty  years  ago,  resurrec- 
tionists, as  they  are  called,  were  unheard  of;  now,  even  the  poor 


174 


FIFESHIIIE. 


labourer  is  under  the  hardship  of  providing  safes  for  the  graves  of  his 
friends. — Forty  years  ago,  thrashing  machines  were  unknown  to  us; 
now,  they  are  become  general  and  so  beneficial  that  it  is  difficult  to 
believe  how  farming  could  be  carried  successfully  on  without  them. 
—  Forty  years  ago,  the  different  ranks  in  society  were  distinguished 
from  each  other  by  their  dress ;  at  present  there  is  little  distinction 
in  dress. — Forty-nine  years  ago,  I  was  the  youngest  minister  of  the 
presbytery,  now  I  am  the  oldest. 

Revised  May  1836. 


PARISH  OF  BEATH. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JAMES  FERGUSSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  the  parish  was  anciently  spelt  Baith^  and 
signifies,  in  Gaelic,  birchwood, — of  which  there  is  not  a  vestige  now 
to  justify  the  etymology. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. —  The  parish  is  about  4  miles  long,  and 
3  broad,  and  is  of  an  irregular  figure.  It  is  bounded  on  the  west 
by  the  parish  of  Dunfermline  ;  on  the  south  by  Dunfermhne  and 
Aberdour ;  on  the  south-east  and  east  by  Aberdour  and  Auchter- 
tool ;  on  the  north-east  by  Auchterderran  ;  on  the  north  and  north- 
west by  Ballingry  and  Cleish. 

Topographical  Appearances. — Its  surface  is  rugged  and  hilly; 
but  there  are  no  mountains.  The  beautiful  hill  of  Beath,  in  re- 
gard to  the  excellence  of  its  pasture,  and  the  fine  and  extensive 
view  it  affords,  is  well  entitled  to  the  description  given  of  it  in  the 
last  Statistical  Account.  The  Saxifraga  granulata  is  found  on  it 
in  abundance. 

Owing  to  the  elevation  of  the  parish,  and  to  the  quantity  of  wet 
land  in  and  around  it,  the  climate,  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year,  is  cold  and  humid.  The  only  lake  in  the  parish  is  Loch 
Fitty  (not  Tilly,  as,  by  mistake,  in  the  last  account.)  It  is  about 
three  miles  in  circumference,  rather  shallow,  adorned  with  little 
scenery,  and  contains  pike,  perch,  and  muscle. 


BEATH. 


175 


At  present  there  are  three  coUieries  in  operation  in  the  parish. 
The  rocks  in  the  hills  and  plains  are,  so  far  as  known,  of  whin  and 
free  or  sandstones.  Some  years  ago,  a  lime  rock  was  discovered 
in  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  and  partially  wrought.  The  soils,  all 
untransported,  are  brown  earth  upon  whinstone,  till,  and  moss. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Land-oxcners. — There  are  thirteen  land-owners  connected  with 
the  parish,  all  of  whom,  except  one,  possess .  property  in  it  above 
L.  50  a-year.  The  principal  proprietors  are,  the  Earl  of  Moray, 
patron;  Mr  Dewar;  and  the  Lord  Chief- Commissioner  Adam. 
Several  others  have  lands  of  considerable  extent  and  value.  Only 
five  of  the  heritors  are  at  present  resident. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parochial  registers,  consisting  of  mi- 
nutes of  session,  records  of  marriages,  births  and  burials,  have  been 
pretty  regularly  kept.  The  earhest  entries  were  in  1642,  and  were 
prefaced  with  a  very  curious  and  interesting  account  of  the  causes 
which  led  to  the  rebuilding  of  the  church, — which  it  is  thought 
proper  here  to  subjoin.  * 

*  "  A  short  andjine  Naration  concerning  the  EirkofBaith,  1040  The  kirk  of  Baith, 

a  most  fitt  and  convenient  place  for  the  situatioiie  of  a  kirk,  being  upone  the  roade  way, 
and  in  the  just  midis  betwixt  Kinross  and  Innerkethine.  Sua  it  is  to  rememberit 
that  tho'  it  be  amongst  the  smallest,  yit  the  name  of  it  is  amongst  the  antientest  par- 
roches  in  Scotland.  Wherefore,  a  most  reverend  and  worthie  brother,  Mr  William 
Scott,  sometime  minister  at  Couper,  reported  that  the  first  place  of  meeting  that  ever 
the  Protestant  Lords  of  Scotland  had  for  the  covenante  and  Reformatione  at  the 
kirk  of  Baith.  This  kirk  in  some  sorte  myght  be  compared  to  Gideon's  fleece,  which 
was  dry,  when  all  the  earth  was  watered. 

"  When  all  the  congregationes  of  Fyfe  were  planted,  this  poore  kirk  was  neglected 
and  overlooked,  and  lay  desolate  then  fourteen e  yeeres,  after  the  Reformatione  ei<xhty 
yeeres.  The  poore  parochiners  being  always  lyke  wandering  sheep  without  a  sheep- 
hard,  and  whairas  they  should  have  conveened  to  hear  apastoure  preiche,  the  princi- 
pal cause  of  the  people's  meetinge,  wes  to  heere  apyper  play  upone  the  Lord's  dave, 
which  was  the  daye  of  thair  profaine  mirth,  not  being  in  the  workes  of  thair  callina;. 
Which  was  the  caus  that  Sathane  had  a  most  faire  name  amongst  them,  stirring 
many  of  them  up  to  dancing,  playing  at  foot-ball,  and  excessive  drinking,  falling  out 
and  wounding  one  another,  which  wes  the  exercise  of  the  younger  sort,  and  the  older 
sort  played  at  gems  and  the  workes  of  their  calling  without  any  distinction  of  the 
weeke  daye  from  the  daye  of  the  Lord,  and  thus  they  continued,  as  said  is,  the  space 
of  eighty  yeeres  :  this  poore  kirk  being  always  neglected,  became  a  sheepe  hous  in  the 

.Zrt"^  ""T"?  ™r  ^''y'^^  *°  l'^^'^  y  Voore  little  ones  (being 

muZ  Tit'"  V!"'  "^r*  ?""'.,^  '""""S'^'  "P^'  "^^'^""l'  ^'^^f  abominatione  was  com! 
Thlutr^  the  profaine  Mr,  I  will  not  expresse  :  let  it  suffice  the  world  to  know,  that 
S?3  hnT'"'  .'  "^'^■-'^^ken  and  brought  to  justice,  for  such  ane 

Inv  hart  ,npw'  r^""" '  '  ^"'^  ^'^atten,  may  be  sufficient  to  make 

we^s  Eadd  to  h?v   f         ^'^°'^V''^.^'     ''^''^  °^  ""^  P°°'-'=  I"  '^"d,  recourse 

i7it  mtl,  n  Pit  J     .   ^  ""^  l^"ds  of  the  parroch,  to  try 

ff  he  wo  ,  H  -n  .1  kntribute  any  thing  to  the  building  of  that  poore  kirk,  or 
amJn.rrh2  'r?""'''P'=°P''^'™'^  such  a  long  soul  murther  that  hadd  been 

the  sam  HP  !  ?u"u''  f  '"^  >"other-in-law,  was  also  dealt  with  to 

onrcxoWlpH?     '  ^hen  that  poore  people  hadd  been  so 

worVof  coSolt      :i  """P''  '1  "^""ded,  or  any  pastoure  to  speake  a 

word  of  comfort  to  the  parrochiner's  souls,  it  pleised  the  Lord  to  put  it  in  the  hart 


176 


FIFESniRIi. 


III. — Population. 
In  1821,  the  amount  of  population  was  729.  By  the  census  of 
1831,  very  accurately  taken,  it  was  921, — males,  459  ;  females, 
462.  Of  this  amount  there  were  23  above  70  years  of  age.  About 
400  of  the  population  live  in  the  villages  of  Kelty  and  Oakfield. 

of  Mr  Alexander  Collville  of  Blair,  having  no  relatione  to  doe  for  this  poore  people, 
but  being  only  their  neere  neighboure,  and  beholding  from  his  own  windowe  thair 
pyping  and  dancing,  revelling  and  deboshing,  their  drinking  and  excesse,  thair  ryote 
everie  Sabbath  day,  was  moved  by  the  Lord,  and  mightilie  stirred  up  to  undertake 
something  for  that  poore  people,  and  having  assembled  some  of  the  speciall  men  ot  the 
parroch,  at  the  village  of  Sheills,  sounded  thair  mindes,  if  they  might  be  bold  to  ad- 
venture to  assist  and  help  him  with  horses  for  drawing  of  timber  and  stones,  (he  and 
they  both  fearing  the  oppositione  and  discountenance  of  the  lord  and  patrone  of  the 
paroch,)  the  parrochiners  present  did  give  this  comfortable  answer,  that  they  woud 
both  doe  and  adventure  to  kntribute  thair  best  endeavores  with  men  and  horses,  for 
building  of  their  kirk,  but  becaus  of  their  povertie,  they  were  not  able  to  kntribute 
anie  of  their  owne  private  monnie,  but  amongst  others  that  were  present,  none  was 
found  more  foreward  with  his  horse  and  assistance  than  Mr  Johne  Hodge,  tennent 
in  Leuchat's  Baith,  of  whorae  I  made  electioue  to  oversee  the  worke  and  the  work- 
men, and  did  presentLie  advance  him  some  monnie  for  that  effect. 

"  Jt  pleised  the  Lord,  so  he  blessed  our  endeavores  that  the  worke  prospered  in  our 
hand,  and  was  brought  to  great  perfectione  in  a  short  tyrae,  even  to  the  admiratione  of 
the  people  and  passengers,  who  marvelled  to  see  the  worke  goe  on  so  sudanlie,  neither 
knowing  the  way  nor  the  instruments.  And  becaus  it  wes  impossible,  when  the  walls 
were  up  to  get  the  kirk  slaitted  in  such  haist,  the  slaittes  being  at  Tippermoore,  which 
was  at  sixteene  miles  distance;  thairfor  it  wes  thought  expedient  for  the  present  yeere, 
that  it  should  be  sarked  with  dealles,  which  being  done  with  very  great  diligence,  1 
thought  good  to  send  for  ane  old  reverend  brother,  Mr  John  Row  Law,  minister  at 
Carnocke,  who  after  some  refuisalls,  without  the  consentof  the  minister  of  Aberdour, 
(becaus  into  his  kirk,  the  parroches  of  Dalgetie  and  Baith  were  annexed,)  he  coud 
not  undertake  to  preach,  yet  after  muche  intreattie  he  was  moved  to  come  to  such  ane 
effamished  congregatione,  in  such  a  retyred  place.    The  people  understanding  that 
sermone  was  to  be  at  the  kirk  of  Baith  so  unexpectedlie,  and  so  suddenlie  budded  ; 
did  resort  from  all  places,  and  much  out  of  everie  sitie,  being  new  fangled  with  such 
a  suddan  change,  thronged  in  so  to  kirk,  that  thair  wes  scarce  anie  place  left  to  raise 
up  some  height  for  a  place  to  the  pastoure.     And  while  the  pastoure  was  m  a  most 
moveing  and  elegant  straine  for  the  kindness  and  mercie  of  God  to  that  people  that 
hadd  lived  so  long  in  darkness,  it  pleised  the  Lord  out  of  his  free  and  immense  love 
to  bring  such  a  suddain  rushe  of  joye  upone  my  hart,  that  I  had  almost  fainted,  but 
in  end  remembering  myseiffe,  I  was  comforted  to  think  that  the  Lord  had  shewed  a 
pledge  of  his  goodnesse  towards  me,  and  accepted  of  my  weakeand  unworthie  obedi- 
ence, to  make  me  instrumentall  for  the  worke  of  his  majestic.    1  shall  not  insist  to 
speike  anie  thing  at  all  of  my  actings  and  doings,  or  sufferings,  to  be  instrumentall  in 
the  worke  of  the  Lord,  but  one  thing  I  must  declaire,  that  Sathanehath  beene,  is,  and 
will  be  bussie  against  all  those  that  will  be  instrumental  for  the  service  of  God.  so  be- 
came he  my  enemy  in  stirring  up  some  to  scourge  me  with  the  tongue,'and  put  grie- 
vous aspersions  upone  my  name  and  reputatione  ;  in  stirring  up  some  to  slander  mee, 
as  iff  I  had  interverted  something  that  was  given  by  some  few  friendes  for  that  proud 
use.    But  I  declaire  in  the  presence  of  God,  to  all  after  ages,  that  such  reports  are 
but  false  calumnies  and  lyes  ;  thair  wes  never  suche  a  thing  as  one  penny  mterverted 
or  withheld  by  me  from  the  work  of  the  Lord.    And  becaus  my  conscience  bearcs 
mee  witnesse  of  the  honestie  of  my  carriage  therein,  it  is  also  borne  m  upon  "ice  to 
pronunce  fi  om  God,  that  he  who  devysed  to  scourge  me  with  the  tongue  shall  be 
punished  without  repentance.    And  more,  to  shew  my  integrity,  where  ane  promise 
that  ever  I  had  in  the  worke  of  the  Lord,  was  from  a  most  religious  Chnstiane,  «  U- 
liam  Breggs  of  Athernie,  and  becaus  I  did  alwayes  rest  confident  of  the  certaintie  ot 
the  helpe  of  such  a  religious  man  ;  I  suspendit  it  last  of  all,  and  would  not  goe  to  yi- 
site  this  worthie  man  without  the  presence  of  ane  elder,  whom  I  chose  to  be  John 
Hodee,  who  accompanied  mee  to  Athernie,  and  when  wee  came  to  Bennochie,  it  was 
reported  to  us,  that  he  was  depairted  this  life,  which  wes  so  ;  and  ''^  ^^'^^-L^'^^^'^,/'  "^- 
trat  altogether  of  our  greatest  hopes.  (Signed)  Jo.  llLNTfER. 


BEATII. 


177 


The  number  of  families  is  180,  containing  each,  of  individuals,  on 
an  average,  somewhat  more  than  5  ;  a  fact,  perhaps,  rather  uncom- 
mon ;  and  to  be  accounted  for  by  early  marriages,  chiefly  among  the 
colliers,  who  earn  higher  wages  than  any  other  class  of  labourers. 
There  are  4  houses  at  present  in  progress  of  building  ;  all  the  rest, 
amounting  to  161,  are  inhabited.  The  increase  of  population  is 
owing  to  the  additional  number  of  hands  employed  at  the  collieries, 
and  to  a  system  of  feuing  lately  introduced. 

The  annual  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years,  appearing  from 
the  parish  records,  was  15;  of  marriages,  5;  and  of  deaths,  13. 
But,  as  the  deaths  of  alJ  who  are  interred  in  the  churchyard  are 
recorded,  although  some  of  them  are  fi'om  other  parishes,  and  as 
some  parents  neglect  to  have  the  births  of  their  children  register- 
ed, the  exact  number  of  births  and  deaths  cannot  be  ascertained. 

In  general  the  people  enjoy  the  advantag-es  and  comforts  suited 
to  their  stations  in  life.  In  dress  and  the  decoration  of,  their  per- 
sons, they  keep  pace  with  the  times.  They  are,  upon  the  whole, 
moral  and  religious.  There  have  been,  as  there  still  are,  several 
instances  of  longevity  among  them. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  4  illegitimate  births 
in  the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — In  this  parish,  there  is  not  much  land  that  is  not 
capable  of  being  rendered  arable  ;  and  by  far  the  greater  part  has 
been  at  one  period  under  the  plough.  Of  late  years  a  good  deal 
has  been  done  in  the  way  of  reclaiming  waste  land,  and  improv- 
ing such  as  had  been  neglected  by  bad  husbandry  ;  and  the  result  ' 
has  been  a  fair  remuneration. 

Number  of  acres,  standard  imperial  measure,  in  the  parish,  which  are  either 

cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  -  _  _  _  5'>70  * 

Number  of  acres  which  never  have  been  cultivated,  and  which  remain  con- 
stantly waste,  or  in  pasture,  -  -  _  .  _  gig 

Number  of  acres  that  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  lie  ad- 
ded to  the  cultivated  land  of  the  parish,  whether  that  land  were  afterwards 
to  be  kept  in  occasional  tillage  or  in  permanent  p  isture,  -  .       394  4. 

Number  of  acres  under  wood,  whether  natural  or  planted,  -  .  S30 

Produce — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  that  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows : 

Produce  of  all  kindc,  ....  ^  _ 

Potatoes,  turnips,  cabbages,  &c.  -  -  -  .  2040    0  0 

"  Although  all  this  has  been  at  one  period  in  tillage,  a  considerable  portion  of,  it 
has  been  long  in  pasture,  and,  as  such,  is  now  of  inferior  quality. 

,.olt      11  ,  'P'"^       V','P^°''T®"*  manifested  by  the  tenantrv  does  not 

■  clax,  all  the  improvable  land  will,  in  a  few  years,  have  been  under  crop.  ' 
FIFIO.  M 


178 


FIFESIIIIU-; 


Hay  -  I'           «  " 

Flax,   -  32    0  (. 

Land  ii\  pasluie,  rating  it  at  L.'i,  10s.  por  cow  or  lull-grown  ox, 

grazod,  or  that  may  bu  grazed  for  the  season,           -           -  2"2IG    0  0 

Gardens  and  orchards,      -           -           -           -           "           "  55  00 
Annual  thiuningand  periodical  felling  of  woods,  plantations,  (most  of 

which  arc  young,)  and  copse,  -  -  -  -  lot)    0  0 

Mines  Amount  of  sales  at  the  Kelty  colliery  from  January  18.J4 

to  January  1035.    The  other  two  collieries  have  been  at  a  stand  ^  ^  ,  , 

for  a  year  or  two,   ^920  13  0 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised,       L.  13947  13  0 

lient  of  Land. — The  average  price  of  land  may  be  stated  at 
about  L.  1  per  Scotch  acre.  The  value  of  different  parts  of  the 
same  farm  differs  very  widely.  Several  farms  have  been  for  many 
years  under  pasture  for  black  cattle,  and  pay  fully  as  well  as  in  til- 
lage. The  state  of  farming  is,  upon  the  whole,  rapidly  improving, 
owing  partly  to  the  encouragement  afforded  by  the  landlords,  and 
partly  to  a  more  judicious  mode  of  husbandry,  and  greater  industry 
on  the  part  of  the  tenants.  Paring  and  burning,  draining,  liming, 
and  earlier  sowing,  are  the  more  striking  and  beneficial  improve- 
ments. 

The  farm-buildings  are,  in  several  instances,  pretty  good,  and 
suited  to  the  value  of  the  farms  and  to  the  district.    Those  on 
the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Moray  have  been  lately  erected.  That 
nobleman  has  also  improved  the  appearance  and  value  of  his  lands 
by  judicious  plantations.    And  it  were  much  to  be  wished,  that 
some  of  the  other  proprietors,  whose  lands  afford  abundant  capa- 
bility, would,  in  this  respect,  follow  his  Lordship's  example,  and  that 
of  the  Lord  Chief- Commissioner,  by  which  means  their  own  ad- 
vantage would  be  promoted,  and  the  parish  be  no  longer  prover- 
bial for  bleakness.    The  duration  of  leases  is,  in  most  cases,  for 
nineteen  years,  which  is  considered  to  be  favourable  to  the  occu- 
pier.   The  productions  of  the  parish  are,  oats,  barley,  wheat  par- 
tially, peas,  beans,  potatoes,  turnips,  a  little  flax,  and  cultivated 
and  meadow  hay.*  A  day-labourer  earns  from  Is.  6d.  to  2s.  a-day. 
Male  farm-servants  are  hired  at  from  L.  10  to  L.  12  per  annum  ; 
and  female  servants  receive  from  L.  5  to  L.  6  per  annum. 
V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Means  of  Communication. — There  are  no  market-towns  in  this  pa- 
rish.   The  nearest  are  Dunfermline  and  Kinross,  each  distant  about 

»  From  the  results  of  experiments  made,  for  several  years  past,  by  the  writer  of 
iccount,  he  has  reason  to  believe  that  carrots  sown  in  our  kitchen  gardens,  about 
.  n  middle  of  May,  are  much  less  liable  to  the  depredations  of  the  worm,  than  those 
soln  lt  an  earlier  periocL    It  will  be  an  additional  advantage  to  sow  them  m  the 
beds  in  which  leeks  were  reared  the  precedmg  year. 

4 


BEATH. 


179 


six  miles  from  the  centre  of  the  parish.  Blair- Adam  Inn,  in  the 
parish  of  Cleish,  is  the  post-office,  nearly  three  miles  from  the  manse. 
The  great  north  road  from  Queensferry  to  Perth,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  kingdom,  passes  through  the  parish,  a  length  of  four  miles. 
There  are  three  public  daily  coaches,  including  the  mail,  travelling 
on  it.  The  bridges  are  in  good  repair,  and  the  parish  is  all.  en- 
closed and  subdivided,  chiefly  with  good  stone  fences,  called  Gallo- 
way dikes. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  the  only  place  of  pub- 
lic worship.  Its  situation  is  convenient  for  the  population,  but  not 
so  its  size,  affording  accommodation  to  only  250  sitters.  It  is  an 
old,  cold,  damp,  fabric.  In  1808,  it  underwent  a  repair,  and  stands 
greatly  in  need  of  another.  If  the  heritors  consulted  their  own  in- 
terest, and  the  accommodation  and  comfort  of  the  people,  they 
would  cause  its  foundation  to  be  dug  up.* 

In  good  weather  the  church  is  remarkably  well  attended.  The 
average  number  of  communicants  is  above  200,  and  the  number  is 
annually  increasing.  Of  the  population  nearly  200,  old  and  young, 
are  Burgher  Seceders,  the  only  description  of  Dissenters  in  the  pa- 
rish. Their  number  has  greatly  diminished  within  the  last  twenty 
years. 

The  manse  was  buih  in  1801,  and  a  small  addition  was  made  to 
it  four  years  ago.  The  glebe  consists  of  8  acres,  and  may  be 
worth  from  L.  16  to  L.  20  yearly.  The  teinds  are  exhausted,  and 
the  stipend  is  the  minimum. 

Education.— The  parochial  school  is  the  only  one  in  the  parish. 
Its  situation  is  central.  The  usual  branches  of  education  are 
taught  in  it.  For  the  last  fourteen  years,  owing  greatly  to  the  su- 
perior merits  of  the  teachers,  Mr  William  Beatton,  lately  called  to 
the  parish  of  Kennoway,  and  his  brother,  who  has  succeeded  him, 
It  has  been  attended  by  an  average  of  100  scholars.  The  fees  are, 
per  quarter,  for  English  reading,  2s.  6d. ;  reading  and  writing,  3s. ;' 
do.  do.^  and  arithmetic,  4s. ;  Latin  and  Greek,  5s.  The  school- 
master's house  and  school-room  were  lately  erected,  and  are  good 
and  commodious.  The  salary  is  the  maximum:  the  fees  may 
amount  to  L.  30  per  annum.  There  are  very  few  persons  in  the 
parish  above  six  years  of  age  who  cannot  read.  In  gener'al  the 
people  are  alive  to  the  benefits  of  education.  There  are,  however, 
some  exceptions,  chiefly  among  the  colliers. 

ere' tcd"caIcuHtp7f!  ""TT  "^"^  S'^'"  "  '''-^ntl^o™"  ^"d  excellent  chi.rch  has  been 
^em  ieat  eri^^^^^^^^  afford  ample  accommo.lation  to  the  parishioners,  and  which  re- 
jects ^reat  credit  upon  the  liberality  of  the  heritors. 


180 


FIFESIIIRE. 


Some  years  ago,  Francis  Berry,  a  native  of  the  parish,  and  who 
spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life  in  it,  in  the  capacity  of  a  small  far- 
mer, (in  consequence  of  the  death  of  his  only  child,  a  student  in 
divinity,)  bequeathed  a  feu  in  land  and  houses,  the  fruit  of  honest 
industry,  for  educating  poor  children,  natives  of  the  parish.  The 
property  is  subject  to  the  liferent  of  his  widow,  an  elderly  woman. 
It  is  let  in  lease  for  L.  28,  10s.  per  annum.  The  kirk-session  are 
appointed  sole  trustees. 

Poor. — The  maintenance  of  the  poor  has  long  been  alight  burden. 
At  present  there  are  only  5  on  the  roll,  three  of  whom  receive  each 
Is.  a-week,  and  the  other  two,  in  more  indigent  circumstances, 
Is.  9d.  each.  Their  wants  are  supplied  out  of  the  ordinary  collec- 
tions, which  amount  to  about  L.  1 1  annually ;  the  interest  of  L.  100 
due  by  promissory-note  to  the  session,  and  the  dues  upon  marriages 
and  burials.'  The  poor  evince  no  unnecessary  disposition  to  soli- 
cit parochial  aid. 

Ififis, — There  are  one  inn  and  four  public-houses  in  the  parish, 
and  their  effects  are  notoriously  injurious  to  the  morals  of  the 
people. 

irye/._The  fuel  used  is  coal,  of  which  there  is  great  abundance 
at  a  reasonable  price. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

The  more  striking  variations  between  the  present  state  of  the 
parish  and  that  which  existed  at  the  time  of  the  last  Statistical  Ac- 
count, consist  in  an  improved  mode  of  farming,  better  farm-build- 
ings, plantations,  collieries,  roads,  population,  school,  and  number 
of  resident  heritors,  which  is  smaller.  The  standard  weights  and 
measures  are  in  use. 

There  is  still  much  room  for  improvement  in  the  way  of  drain- 
ing, reclaiming  waste  land,  and  planting.  What  might  be  profit- 
ably done  in  this  last  respect,  is  sufficiently  evinced  in  the  exten- 
sive and  thriving  plantations  on  the  estate  of  the  Lord  Chief- Com- 
missioner, a  gentleman  to  whose  taste,  liberality,  and  public  spirit, 
this  district,  generally,  is  highly  indebted. 


Given  in  April  1833,  Revised  Ajjril  1836, 


PARISH  OF  DALGETY. 

PRESBYTEKY  OF  DCNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ALEXANDER  WATT,  A.M.  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Extent,  Boundaries. — This  parish  is  situated  on  the  northern  coast 
of  the  Frith  of  Forth.  Its  southern  boundary  stretches  about  4 
miles  along  the  wooded  broken  line  of  beach,  that  lies  betwixt  the 
village  of  Aberdour  and  the  borough  of  Inverkeithing.  It  is  near- 
ly of  a  triangular  form,  extending  in  length  about  4  miles  from 
south  to  north,  and  not  exceeding  in  many  places  a  mile  in  breadth. 
It  is  bounded  by  Inverkeithing  on  the  west ;  by  Aberdour  on  the 
east  and  north  ;  and  by  a  small  part  of  the  parish  of  Dunfermline 
on  the  north-west. 

Topographical  Appearances. — There  is  a  gradual  ascent  from 
the  southern  to  the  northern  extremity,  which  stands  about  436  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  some  of  the  higher  ground  on 
the  estates  of  Fordel  and  Cockairney,  the  views  are  very  extensive. 
They  command  at  one  sweep  the  whole  range  of  the  opposite  coast 
from  Queensferry  as  far  as  the  Isle  of  May. 

It  may  be  said  that  we  have  two  distinct  climates  in  this  small 
parish.  In  the  lower  division  on  the  sea  coast,  which  is  well  wood- 
ed, and  m  a  state  of  good  cultivation,  the  thermometer  generally 
stands  some  degrees  higher  than  in  the  upper  district,  which  con- 
tains an  extensive  coal -field,  and  the  soil  of  which  is  of  a  much  in- 
ferior quality.  In  spring,  the  whole  parish,  like  most  of  those  along 
the  sea-coast,  is  much  exposed  to  the  chilling  influence  of  the  pre- 
vailing east  winds.  The  inhabitants,  however,  are  generally  very 
healthy,  and  there  is  no  disease  pecuhar  to  them  except  some  cases 
of  asthma  and  rheumatism  amongst  the  colUers,  which  are  occa- 
sioned by  the  nature  of  their  occupation. 

Hydrography.— There  are  no  rivers  in  this  parish.  There  is  a 
lake,  however,  of  considerable  extent.  It  is  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  At  the 
east  end  of  it,  stands  the  old  mansion-house  of  Cockairney,  the  re- 


182 


FIFESIIIUF.. 


sidcnce  of  Sir  Robert  Mowbray,  Knight,  one  of  the  heritors  of  the 
l)arish.  On  the  nortliern  bank,  is  situated  the  old  mansion-house 
of  Otterston,  whence  the  lake  derives  its  name,  which  is  at  present 
occupied  by  Lady  Torrens,  widow  of  the  late  Sir  Henry  Torrens. 
The  lake  and  all  the  lands  of  Otterston  form  part  of  the  estate 
of  Sir  Robert  Mowbray  of  Cockairney.  The  blending  of  hill  and 
dale,  of  wood  and  water,  in  this  spot,  renders  it  a  scene  of  no  com- 
mon beauty. 

There  is  a  picturesquely  situated  waterfall  on  the  adjoining 
grounds  of  Fordel.  The  stream  which  forms  it  winds  its  course 
for  a  considerable  way  through  a  darkly  wooded  glen,  where  it 
meets  with  the  outlet  of  water  from  the  great  drainage  level  of  the 
Fordel  colliery,  and  then  rushes  over  a  broken  rocky  precipice 
of  about  fifty  feet  in  height.  Near  the  termination  of  this  glen 
there  is  a  mineral  well,  a  minute  analysis  of  which  is  to  be  found 
in  Professor  Jameson's  Philosophical  Journal  for  the  year  1829. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — The  minerals  known  in  this  parish 
belong  to  the  secondary  series  of  rocks ;  and,  so  far  as  they  have 
yet  been  discovered,  may  be  said  to  abound  in  sandstone,  bitumi- 
nous shale,  quartz,  rock-limestone,  and  coal.  The  general  dip  of 
the  strata  is  north-east,  varying,  in  some  places,  from  the  disloca- 
tions of  the  minerals  by  dikes,  which,  according  to  their  magni- 
tude, more  or  less  derange  and  alter  it.  Sandstone  abounds  all 
over  the  parish  ;  but  it  is  of  more  value  in  the  southern  than  in 
the  northern  division.  About  the  centre  of  the  parish  there  is 
a  thick  bed  of  exceedingly  hard  quartz  rock.  It  does  not  ap- 
pear at  the  surface,  except  in  two  or  three  places,  being  generally 
concealed  by  a  thick  covering  of  earth.  Limestone,  which  con- 
stitutes the  basis  of  the  coal  formation,  extends  regularly  through- 
out the  parish,  under  the  coal.  It  is  found  about  50  fathoms 
underneath  the  lower  bed  of  coal,  and  from  the  basin  shape 
of  the  minerals,  the  lime  seldom  or  ever  makes  its  appearance  at 
the  surface  ;  but  it  is  to  be  found  in  considerable  quantities,  both 
to  the  east  and  west,  in  the  adjoining  parishes  of  Aberdour  and  In- 
verkeithing. 

Fordel  coal-icorks. —  Coal,  the  mineral  of  the  greatest  importance, 
abounds  in  considerable  quantities  in  this  parish.  The  extensive 
coal-works  on  the  estate  of  Fordel,  the  property  of  Admiral  Sir  P.  C. 
H.  Durham,  G.  C.  B,  form  the  principal  feature  of  this  parish,  and 
the  great  source  of  its  trade  and  revenue.  The  coal  on  the  lands 
of  Fordel  has  been  wrought  for  nearly  240  years.  Tliis  has  been 
a  valuable  property  ;  but  its  value  is  now  much  diminished,  in  con- 


DALGETY. 


183 


sequence  of  the  great  extent  of  coal  which  has  been  wrought  out 
of  it.  As  Sir  PhiHp  Durham,  however,  has  in  lease  the  adjoining 
coal-fields  on  the  estate  of  Cuttlehill,  it  is  certain  that  coal  will 
'be  conveyed  through  the  parish  for  upwards  of  150  years  to  come. 
And  even  when  it  is  exhausted,  the  extensive  minerals  to  the  north, 
in  the  neighbouring  parish,  will,  in  all  probability,  be  brought 
through  this  parish  to  the  shipping  port  of  St  David's.  From  a 
recent  inspection  of  the  strata  throughout  this  parish,  and,  parti- 
cularly, from  a  minute  examination  of  that  part  of  it  connected  with 
the  mining  operations,  it  is  found  that  the  coal-field  is  much  in- 
tersected with  dikes  and  dislocations,  which  very  much  elevate  and 
depress  the  strata  forming  this  extensive  coal  country. 

From  the  harbour  of  St  David's,  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
parish,  as  far  north  as  the  drainage  level  of  the  Fordel  colliery  ope- 
rations,— a  distance  of  about  two  miles, — the  strata  appear  some- 
what regular,  dipping  to  the  north-east.  They  cannot,  however, 
be  correctly  ascertained  in  many  places,  as  they  have  a  conside- 
rable cover  of  earth  upon  them.  From  the  latter  point,  northwards, 
they  can  be  most  accurately  traced. 

The  outlet  of  water  from  the  drainage  level  of  the  Fordel  col- 
liery is  120  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  it  is  continued  north- 
wards nearly  three  miles  through  the  solid  rock.  During  its  course 
ten  dikes  are  met  with  of  various  magnitudes ;  in  some  places  they 
do  not  alter  the  strata  many  feet ;  in  others,  f  hey  are  found  100  feet 
thick,  and  elevating  the  strata  sixty  fathoms.  Their  direction  often 
varies  as  well  as  their  angle  of  inclination  from  nearly  a  horizontal 
to  a  vertical  position.  The  materials  of  which  these  dikes  are  com- 
posed are  generally  sandstone,  more  or  less  indurated  with  quartz 
and  limestone. 

From  the  point  at  which  coal  is  first  found,  the  surface  rises 
gently  northwards,  till  it  reaches  the  height  of  436  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  this  forms  the  northern  boundary,  and  the  highest 
part  of  the  parish.  It  is  found  as  we  proceed  northwards,  that  the 
strata  assumes  a  greater  dip  in  some  places,  varying  from  1  in  8 
to  1  in  3.  In  very  few  instances,  however,  do  these  dikes  deterio- 
rate the  coal  in  quality,  but  the  reverse ;  for  as  the  miner  ap- 
proaches these  dikes,  the  coal  becomes  harder,  and  more  difficult 
to  work,  and  in  many  cases  an  extra  expense  is  paid  for  labour. 
The  coal  mines  in  this  parish  were  not  wrought  to  any  considerable 
extent  until  within  the  last  thirty  years,  when  the  consumption  of 
coal  has  been  very  much  increased,  particularly  for  steam  naviga- 


184 


FIFESHIRE. 


tion.  And  as  this  coal-field  produces  the  finest  coal  for  that  pur- 
pose, the  working  of  it  has  been  much  more  extensively  carried  on. 
The  depth  of  the  mining  operations  at  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  parish  is  300  feet  from  the  surface,  and  that  of  the  main  drain- 
age level  is  only  about  250  feet;  consequently  machinery  is  required 
to  raise  the  water  from  the  mines,  a  distance  of  about  50  feet,  in- 
stead of  which,  had  the  level  been  carried  duly  horizontal,  the 
whole  of  the  coal  now  drained  by  machinery  would  have  been  level 
free.  And  thus  had  due  regard  been  paid  at  first  to  the  drainage 
level,  the  expensive  machinery  now  erected  on  the  works  would, 
in  a  great  measure,  have  been  unnecessary. 

The  coal-field  of  this  parish  extends  two  miles  north  and  south, 
and  one  mile  east  and  west,  and  forms  the  basin  or  trough  of  the 
coal-fields  in  the  neighbourhood.  For,  upon  drawing  a  line  in  a 
north-eastern  direction  from  the  point  at  which  coal  is  first  found 
to  the  extremity  of  the  parish,  it  appears  that  the  coal  and  its  ac- 
companying strata  uniformly  rise  to  the  east  as  well  as  to  the  west 
of  that  line.  To  the  east  it  rises  rapidly,  and  throws  out  the  crop 
of  the  upper  coals  before  it  goes  out  of  the  parish ;  the  under  ones 
are  found  on  the  verge  of  the  Aberdour  parish.  At  every  dike  or 
dislocation  of  the  strata  northwards,  the  coals  are  thrown  further 
east,  until  the  same  coals  in  quality,  though  not  the  same  in  num- 
ber, or  in  thickness,  are  found  to  extend  into  Lochgelly  parish, 
and  so  on  eastwards,  throughout  the  whole  of  that  coal  country. 

To  the  westward  of  this  line,  the  same  takes  place,  but  not  so 
rapidly,  and  this  forms  the  most  interesting  and  valuable  coal-field 
in  the  western  district  of  Fife.  The  same  dikes  and  coals  can  be 
traced  with  great  regularity  from  the  east  of  this,  to  the  west  of  the 
parish  of  Dunfermline,  with  little  or  no  variation  in  the  line  of  bear- 
ing, although  they  are  more  or  less  depressed  by  the  intersection 
of  diagonal  dikes  changing  the  direction  of  the  strata. 

In  order  more  fully  to  shew  the  metals  passed  through  in  the 
progress  of  sinking  for  coal,  we  shall  here  annex  a  correct  section 
of  the  strata  as  taken  from  actual  measurement. 

Section  of  a  pit  at  Fordel  Collicri/. 

Fath.  Feet.  In.  Fai/i.  Ft.  In. 

Surface  sand  and  clay,           4     2    6  Dai  k-grey  freestone,  .      2  18 

White  freestone,          .         12    0  Soft  light  freestone,  .       ^  0  9 

Dark  yellow  do.       .           0     2    3^  Blae,         .          .  '      ?  ^  q 

Soft  blae  and  bands,      .        14    0  Blawlowan  coal,          .  \  ?  in 

Blue  blae,           •           .112  Grey  fi  coslone  bands,  .0  1  10 

Dark  arey  freestone,       .      2     1     8^  Light  yellow  freestone,  .      1  2  6i 

Do.  with  bands,         .          0     4     3  Dark-yellow  do        .  .    0  2  8 

Yellow  freestone,         •        1     3    o  Do.  mixed  with  blae,  .      0  <i  -i^. 


DALGETY. 


185 


Falh,  Ft.  III.  Fatli.  Ft.  In. 

Lighter  mixed  with  blae,       0     1    lOj  Yellow  freestone,  .        12  9 

Very  hard  freestone,       .     0     5     4^  Blae,          .  •            0     4  6 

Blae  and  bands,       .       .018  Coalthief  coal,  .  .058 

IVJyiiheer  coal,        .          .0      4     0  Freestone  post,  .  149 

Do.  hard  grey  freestone,        0     2     4  Grey  bands,         .  .030 

Light  do.           .           .        13     7^  White  freestone,  .         0      3  0 

Blue,           .         .        .       1      2     41  Very  hard  do.  .            0     0  3 

Gruy  freestone,         .          15    6  Coal,          .  .  .013 

Do.          .           .          .0     2     5  Blae,           .         .  .040 

Very  hard  freestone,       .       118  White  freestone,  .          13  6 

Softer  do.           .           .0     2     7  Ironstone  bands,  .  005 

Blae,          .         .         .0     3     9  Freestone,            .  247 

Black  blae,          .           .10     5  Blae  and  bands,    ■       .  10  2 

Very  hard  do.  bands,      .       0     5     2  Main  splint  coal,  ,        0     4  9 
Blae  and  freestone,       .        2     3  7 


Dark-grey  bands,         .         0     2     8  Total  depth,        .        49    2  01 

There  are  thus  only  four  workable  seams  of  coal,  named  the 
Blawlowan,  Coalthief,  Mynheer,  and  Splint. — The  Blawlowan  is 
a  soft  cubical  coal,  it  is  generally  used  in  lime-works,  burns  slow- 
ly, and  produces  white  ashes. — The  Mynheer  is  an  excellent  splint 
coal,  burns  with  little  ashes,  is  used  for  steam-machinery,  but  it  is 
best  adapted  for  household  purposes. — The  Coalthief  is  a  strong 
cubical  coal,  free  of  all  iron  pyrites,  burns  clean,  works  large,  and  is 
principally  used  by  distillers  and  manufacturers. — The  Main  S|)lint 
is  a  very  superior  coal  to  the  other  three.  It  burns  free  of  ashes, 
leaves  a  small  cinder,  is  very  bituminous,  works  large,  and  has  an 
exceedingly  strong  flame  when  burning,  and  from  its  durability  and 
superior  quality,  is  considered  the  best  in  Scotland  for  steam  navi- 
gation and  household  purposes,  for  which  immense  shipments  are 
made  all  over  the  continent. 

Having  given  a  short  account  of  the  coal-field  of  this  parish,  and 
its  connection  with  those  of  the  adjoining  parishes,  we  shall  shortly 
state  the  quantity  of  coal  still  remaining  to  be  wrought.  This,  we 
are  sorry  to  say,  is  reduced  to  a  comparatively  small  extent,  as  may 
be  easily  conceived  from  the  length  of  time  during  which  it  has 
been  wrought.  There  is,  it  is  generally  believed,  coal  to  work  on 
the  Fordel  estate  for  thirty  years  at  a  moderate  rate,  as  there  still 
remains  one  or  two  coal-fields  untouched,  but  the  mining  appara- 
tus not  being  directed  in  that  quarter,  it  may  be  some  time  before 
they  are  explored.  I  am  also  inclined  to  think  that  there  are  se- 
veral great  coal  seams  throughout  the  parish,  particularly  in  the 
southern  division,  and  which  may  soon  be  examined,  especiidly  those 
lying  in  the  direction  of  the  strath,  in  front  of  Fordel  House,  where 
evident  proofs  of  a  coal  formation  have  been  traced.  It  may  bg 
sufficient  at  present  to  mention,  that  in  the  parishes  of  Aberdoui-, 
Dalgety,  Inverkeithing,  and  Dunfermline,  there  are  coal-fields 


186 


FIFESHIRi:. 


which  will  last  many  centuries  at  the  present  extent  of  sales,  which 
may  be  estimated  at  nearly  230,000  tons. 

The  average  annual  sales  from  Fordel  colliery  may  be  estimated 
at  nearly  70,000  tons.  The  mode  by  which  the  coals  are  conveyed 
to  the  shipping  harbour  is  by  a  wooden  railway  laid  with  beech  and 
fir,  having  wood-sleepers  every  two  feet  apart.  The  road  is  laid 
double,  having  one  fir  rail  below,  and  a  beech  rail  above.  Wag- 
gons containing  three  tons  are  drawn  by  one  and  sometimes  by  two 
horses,  to  the  shipping  port  of  St  David's,  and  emptied  into  the 
vessels  by  machines  erected  for  that  purpose.  This  waggon  way 
is  upheld  at  a  very  great  expense ;  but  extensive  operations  have 
been  going  on  for  some  time,  preparing  a  new  line  of  road  for  aiT 
iron  railway,  which,  when  finished,  will  be  an  immense  saving  annu- 
ally, independently  of  the  greater  facility  and  expedition  with  which 
shipments  may  then  be  made.  The  superior  quality  of  the  Fordel 
coal  is  now  known  over  the  whole  of  Europe,  and  being  particular- 
larly  adapted  for  steam  navigation,  it  has  gained  an  ascendency  over 
most  of  the  Scotch  and  Enghsh  coal  for  that  purpose.  Besides 
being  so  well  adapted  for  all  household  uses,  it  is  also  much  in 
request  by  bakers,  brewers,  manufacturers ;  and  large  exports  are 
made  to  the  continent  and  to  America,  which  is  in  a  great  measure 
to  be  attributed  to  the  exertions  of  the  spirited  proprietor  of  the 
works,  Admiral  Sir  Philip  Durham,  G.  C.  B.  who  has  used  every 
means,  and  has  spared  no  expense,  in  proving  the  superior  quahties 
of  the  Fordel  coal,  especially  for  the  purpose  of  raising  steam. 

In  the  present  state  of  the  coal  trade  in  the  river  Forth,  there  is 
little  encouragement  to  make  any  extensive  improvements.  It  has 
undergone  a  complete  change  within  the  last  twenty-five  years.  And 
this  has  been  particularly  the  case  since  1820,  when  a  more  exten- 
sive sale  of  English  coal  was  introduced  into  the  Scotch  market. 
In  1824,  the  prices  revived  a  little,  which  gave  a  new  stimulus  to 
the  coal  proprietors,  but  at  present  they  are  again  much  reduced. 

The  following  are  the  prices  at  which  coals  are  put  on  board  ves- 
sels at  the  harbour  of  St  David's  from  the  Fordel  colliery  :  Best 
splint  great  coal,  9s.  per  ton  ;  chew  coal,  6s.  6d. ;  mixed  house- 
hold coal,  6s.  6d. ;  small  coal,  3s.  lOd.  And  even  at  these  very  re- 
duced prices  it  is  difficult  to  effect  the  ordinary  sales ;  and  in  many 
cases  coals  are  sold  at  the  cost  price. 

Salt-ioorks. — In  connection  with  the  colliery  and  railway  for  the 
exportation  of  coal  at  St  David's,  there  are  very  extensive  salt-works 
upon  the  best  principles.    There  is  a  steam-engine  for  drawing  the 


DALGETY.  187 

salt  water  at  flood  tides  into  a  large  reservoir,  which  contains  as 
much  water  as  is  necessary  for  a  week's  consumption.  This  com- 
pletely secures  the  deposition  of  all  mud  and  sand,  so  that  the  water 
becomes  quite  pure  before  it  is  used  for  making  salt.  There  are 
large  salt  pans,  which  make  annually  about  30,000  bushels,  the 
sales  of  which  amount  to  about  L.  1600. 

Harbours. — The  harbour  at  St  David's  seems  originally  to  have 
been  very  indifferently  constructed,  as  appears  from  the  remains  of 
the  old  pier.    Within  these  four  years,  the  proprietor.  Sir  Philip 
Durham,  has  made  great  improvements,  at  an  expense  of  nearly 
L.  2000,  so  that  vessels  of  450  to  500  tons  burden  can  come  in  and 
load  with  safety,  and  command  from  seventeen  to  eighteen  feet  of 
water.  These  extensive  additions  were  much  wanted,  without  which 
it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have  effected  the  present  exten- 
sive sales.  All  that  is  now  wanting  is  the  finishing  of  the  new  railway  to 
make  Fordel  colliery,  with  the  harbour  of  St  David's,  one  of  the  most 
complete  coal- works  in  Scotland.   The  annual  circulation  of  money 
at  the  Fordel  and  Cuttlehill  collieries,  and  at  the  salt-works  at  St 
David's  may  be  estimated  at  nearly  L.  22,000.    The  number  of 
men,  women,  and  children  who  derive  their  support  from  the  above 
works  exceeds  800,  or  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  whole  parish.  When 
we  consider  the  various  advantages  of  which  such  works  are  pro- 
ductive to  the  parish,  and  to  the  neighbourhood,  they  reflect  the 
highest  honour  on  their  benevolent  proprietor,  who  for  many  years 
has  received  little  emolument  from  them.    The  number  of  houses 
occupied  by  the  families  of  work-people  belonging  to  the  coUiery 
is  about  130.    The  number  of  men  employed  is  100;  unmar- 
ried men  and  boys,  186;  women  and  girls,  120;  making  a  total 
of  536,  actually  employed.    This  number  is  independent  of  those 
who  are  engaged  in  the  shipping  of  coals,  in  the  salt-works,  and 
in  driving  waggons,  which  require  upwards  of  50  horses. 

These  people  are  paid  every  fourteen  days.  Their  wages  are 
very  good  ;  a  collier,  when  the  work  is  going  on  well,  can  earn  about 
3s.  per  day.  They  have  likewise  very  comfortable  houses  and 
gardens,  which  are  kept  up  at  the  expense  of  the  proprietor.  The 
only  fossil  remains  found  in  the  strata  are  some  simple  petrifac- 
tions of  a  species  of  fern  now  extinct.  There  are  also  some  bi- 
valves, and  other  shells  amongst  the  argillaceous  schistus.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  parish,  there  are  frequently  found  trunks  of  trees, 
next  to  the  strata  beneath  the  moss,  petrified  into  a  soft  sandstone  ; 


188 


FIFESIIIKK. 


the  outer  part  of  them  is  generally  very  perfect,  and  is  covered 
with  coaly  matter. 

The  soil  in  this  parish  is  very  various.  In  the  southern  parts  it 
consists  generally  of  a  deep  strong  loam,  mixed  with  clay.  The 
sloping  banks  lying  to  the  south  are  of  a  lighter  and  drier  nature. 
Where  the  coal  formation  commences  the  soil  is  generally  wet  and 
stiff  and  there  are  also  a  few  mossy  swamps  covered  with  heath. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Land-otoners. — The  whole  lands  in  the  parish  belong  to  three 
proprietors,  who  are  generally  resident,  viz.  the  Right  Honour- 
able the  Earl  of  Moray,  who  resides  at  Donibristle ;  Admiral 
Sir  P.  C.  H.  Durham,  G.  C.  B.  at  Fordel  House ;  and  Sir  Ro- 
bert Mowbray,  Knight,  at  Cockairney.  There  has  lately  been 
built  on  the  grounds  of  the  Earl  of  Moray,  a  dwelling-house,  which 
is  at  present  occupied  by  P.  Anislie,  Esq.  who  acts  as  his  Lord- 
ship's Commissioner.  It  has  been  named  St  Colme  House,  be- 
ing situated  nearly  opposite  the  island  of  that  name  in  the  Frith 
of  Forth. 

HI, — Population. 

In  1755,  the  population  of  the  parish  was  stated  to  be  761. 
Since  that  period  it  has  been  nearly  doubled.  The  principal 
cause  of  its  increase  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  extension  of  the 
Fordel  coal-works,  and  to  several  small  feus,  which  have  been 
granted  by  the  proprietor  on  his  lands  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
colHery.  '  The  population  in  the  southern  division  of  the  parish 
has  greatly  diminished  of  late.  The  old  village  of  Dalgety,  along 
with  the  parish  school,  and  some  other  houses  which  were  situated 
near  the  old  church,  have  all  been  removed,  as  the  properties  in 
that  neighbourhood  have  gradually  come  into  the  possession  of  the 
Earl  of  Moray,  and  have  been  thrown  into  his  Lordship's  exten- 
sive enclosures. 

The  number  of  individuals  residing  in  villages  is  as  follows : 

At.  St  David's,  a  small  village  on  the  sea  cost,         .  142 

Hill  End,  only  a  small  part  of  which  is  in  the  parish,  .  43 

At  Crossgates,       .         .         .       .         .       •  176 

At  Fordnl  Square,       ...         .        •         •  '41 
Hows  of  Collier  houses,     .       .        .        .  • 

Population  of  the  parish  in  1 801,        -  f90 

1811,  -  816 
18-21,  -  912 
1831,        -  1300 

There  has  been  no  obituary  kept  in  the  parish  for  the  last  fifty 
years. 


DALGETY. 


189 


The  average  number  of  marriages  for  the  last  seven  years  is       .          ,  ]  1 

persons  under  15  years  of  age,         .         .         .  540 

betwixt  15  and  30,       .          .          .  357 

30  and  50,         .           .           .  248 

50  and  70,          .          .       .  JI8 

upwards  of  70,          ...  37 

Total  1300 

Number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,   1 1 

females  above  45,  ...  13 

The  average  number  of  children  in  each  family  may  be  stated  at  .         .  4 

The  number  of  insane,  blind,  and  dumb,  ...  -4 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  -  .  .  .  253 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  .  41 

in  trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,     -  39 

Character,  8fc.  of  the  People. — The  people  in  general  are  very 
sober  and  industrious.  Those  of  them  who  are  not  employed  in  the 
coal-works  consist  principally  of  labourers  and  farm-servants.  The 
colliers  who  compose  such  a  large  proportion  of  the  parishioners 
are,  with  a  few  exceptions,  the  most  sober  and  civilized  of  that  class 
of  the  community  any  where  to  be  found.  They  are  quite  a  dis- 
tinct class  from  the  agricultural  population.  Their  prejudices,  their 
domestic  habits,  and  even  their  style  of  dress  are  altogether  pecu- 
liar. So  completely  have  they  kept  themselves  apart,  and  so  much 
have  intermarriages  prevailed,  that  for  centuries  back  the  same 
family  names  have  generally  obtained  amongst  them.  The  ame- 
liorated condition  of  the  Fordel  colliers,  when  compared  with  that 
of  manyothers,  is  principally  to  be  traced  to  the  effects  of  educa- 
tion. Before  the  parish  school  was  removed  to  their  immediate 
neighbourhood,  where  it  has  been  for  upwards  of  thirty  years,  it  was 
their  uniform  practice  to  maintain  by  subscription  a  teacher  amongst 
themselves.  This  fact  may  be  of  some  importance  to  those  pro- 
prietors, many  of  whose  colliers  are  so  far  behind  the  other  classes 
of  the  community,  both  as  regards  general  education  and  moral 
improvement. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture.— kgnc\i\\me  is  generally  in  a  very  improved  state 
m  this  parish.  Its  situation  affords  the  farmer  many  advantages. 
There  is  abundance  of  lime  in  the  neighbourhood.  Fuel  is  very 
moderate  in  price,  and  manure  to  any  extent  can  be  obtained  from 
Leith  by  water  carriage.  As  the  soil,  especially  toward  the  northern 
parts  of  the  parish,  is  naturally  wet,  draining  has  been  much  resort- 
ed to,  and  with  the  most  beneficial  effects.  Such  a  complete  change 
have  some  of  the  lands  on  the  estate  of  Fordel  undergone  that  a 
farm,  which  twenty  years  ago  brought  only  a.  rental  of  L.  1.5,  now 


190 


FIFESHIUK. 


lets  for  L.  240.  This  estate  lias  also  been  mucli  improved  and 
sheltered  by  extensive  thriving  plantations.  There  are  about  40 
acres  of  moss  and  swampy  ground  in  the  northern  division  of  the 
parish,  a  part  of  which  is  grazed  during  the  summer  months. 

The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  which  are  either  cultivated 
or  occasionally  in  tillage  is  about  1005.  There  are  about  240 
acres  of  wood.  The  average  rent  of  land  is  from  L.  2  to  L.  3  per 
acre,  and  in  the  northern  division  from  L.  1,  10s.  to  L.  2, 

Produce. — The  average  value  of  raw  produce  raised  in  the 


parish  is  the  following  : 

White  crop,  -             -          -         L.  4930 

Pasture,  -             -             -  1030 

Hay,             -  -             -             -  690 

Potatoes,  .            -            -  1465 

Turnips,  -             -                -  340 

Salt-works,  -              -              -  1600 

Sales  at  Fordel  colliery,  -             -  28000 


Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce,       -         L.  38055 


V. — Pakochial  Economy. 
Market-Towns. — The  nearest  market-town  is  Inverkeithing. 
There  are  no  villages  in  the  parish  except  the  small  shipping  port 
of  St  David's. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — A  very  handsome  parish  church  was  erect- 
ed in  the  year  1830.  The  style  of  the  building  is  Gothic.  It  is 
seated  to  accommodate  500  individuals.  It  does  great  honour  to 
the  liberality  and  taste  of  the  heritors,  being  one  of  the  most  hand- 
some small  country  churches  in  Scotland ;  and  furnishes  a  proof 
of  the  great  improvement  which  has  lately  taken  place  in  the  style 
of  ecclesiastical  architecture.  It  is  more  conveniently  situated  for 
some  of  the  parishioners  than  the  old  church,  which  stood  close 
to  the  sea  side,  while  the  most  populous  part  of  the  parish  is  about 
four  miles  distant.  The  site  of  the  new  church  is  about  a  mile  to 
the  north  of  the  former  one,  close  to  the  public  road,  which  lies  be- 
twixt Aberdour  and  Inverkeithing.  It  is  still,  however,  about  three 
miles  from  the  great  body  of  the  parishioners. 

There  are  a  number  of  individuals  really  attached  to  the  Esta- 
blishment, who  are  thus  unwillingly  necessitated  to  become  dissen- 
ters, on  account  of  the  inconvenient  distance  at  which  they  are 
placed  from  the  parish  church. 

The  old  church  is  a  very  ancient  building.  It  was  for  many  ye 
in  a  great  state  of  disrepair,  and  was  never  well  adapted,  from  its 
uncentrical  situation,  to  be  a  place  of  worship  for  the  parish.  It 
stands  about  two  miles  from  Donibristle  House,  close  to  the  se 


DALGETY. 


191 


shore.  It  was  formerly  a  Cliapel  of  Ease  to  the  monastery  on  the 
Island  of  Inch  Colme,  when  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Moray  be- 
longed to  the  abbots  of  that  monastery.  On  one  of  the  small  gal- 
leries is  rudely  emblazoned  the  heraldric  arms  of  the  Earl  of  Dun- 
fermline, a  family  now  extinct.  Chancellor  Seaton,  who  was  creat- 
ed Earl  of  Dunfermline  in  1605,  hes  interred  in  a  part  of  the  area 
of  the  church,  along  with  some  other  individuals  of  distinction. 

A  substantial  and  well-finished  new  manse  and  offices  have  also 
been  built  within  the  last  five  years.  They  are  situated  on  the  glebe, 
and  are  a  few  minutes  walk  from  the  new  church.  The  glebe  is 
12  acres  in  extent,  and  lets  for  about  L.  1,  12s.  per  acre.  The 
teinds  of  the  parish  are  exhausted ;  their  amount  is  about  15  chal- 
ders. 

There  are  no  dissenting  chapels  in  the  parish,  and  those  of  the 
parishioners  who  do  not  belong  to  the  parish  church,  attend  a 
Burgher  meeting-house  either  at  Inverkeithing  or  at  Crossgates. 
The  latter  place  is  very  conveniently  situated  for  the  coUiers,  being 
only  about  a  mile  distant  from  most  of  them.  The  number  of  in- 
dividuals attending  the  Established  Church  is  about  400. 

Education. — There  are  two  schools  in  the  parish.  The  paro- 
chial schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary  and  the  legal  accom- 
modation. The  other  school  is  supported  entirely  by  the  fees  of 
the  scholars,  and  a  free  school-room.  The  expense  of  education 
at  the  parish  school  is,  8s.  for  reading;  writing,  10s. ;  and  arith- 
metic, 12s.,— which  are  the  only  branches  taught.  There  are  no 
persons  in  the  parish  from  six  years  and  upwards  who  cannot  read. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  average  number  of  persons  upon 
the  poor  roll  is  from  25  to  30,  and  the  sum  distributed  is  from  Is. 
to  Is.  6d.  per  week.  The  annual  disbursement  is  about  L.  40.  It 
does  not  appear  that  compulsory  assessments  have  ever  been  intro- 
duced into  this  parish.  The  three  heritors  have  been  in  the  habit 
for  a  considerable  period  of  assessing  themselves  to  make  up  any 
deficiencies  in  the  poors'  funds.  Besides  the  weekly  collections, 
there  is  the  interest  of  L.  130  arising  from  legacies  left  by  indivi- 
duals to  the  poor  of  the  parish.  Since  the  new  church  was  open- 
ed, however,  the  weekly  collections  have  been  more  than  sufficient 
to  meet  all  the  demands  upon  the  poor  funds,  though  the  number 
ot  paupers  is  rather  upon  the  increase.  The  heritors  had  former- 
ly to  contribute  about  L.  10  annually.  At  present  the  rare,  though 
much-wished  for  state  of  things  here  obtains,  viz.  the  voluntary 
babbath  day  offerings  of  the  parishioners  supporting  all  the  poor. 


192 


FIFESHIRK. 


and  the  aged,  and  the  infirm  amongst  them.   This  is  principally  to 
be  assigned  to  the  regularity  of  the  attendance  of  the  heritors'  fa- 
milies, and  of  others,  since  a  comfortable  place  of  worship  has  been 
provided.    The  state  of  complete  disrej^air  in  which  the  old  church 
remained  for  upwards  of  thirty  years  had  the  effect  of  alienating 
many  individuals  from  the  Establishment,  who  could  easily  obtain 
comfortable  accommodation  in  the  numerous  dissenting  chapels 
in  the  neighbourhood.    And  thus  many  who  during  life  had  week- 
ly contributed  toward  the  support  of  a  dissenting  place  of  worship, 
and  towards  the  maintenance  of  its  poor,  have  themselves  ultimate- 
ly become  applicants  for  parochial  relief.    This  has  had  the  effect 
of  greatly  increasing  the  demand  upon  the  heritors  ;  and  had  they 
not  come  forward  and  assessed  themselves,  and  had  not  many  cases 
of  indigence  been  supplied  by  the  private  benevolence  of  the  pro- 
prietor^of  the  Fordel  coal-works,  this  parish  might  long  ere  now 
have  been  subject  to  all  the  numerous  evils  which  never  fail  to 
attend  that  self-increasing  evil,  a  legal  assessment,  and  from 
which,  we  trust,  it  is  now  in  the  way  of  farther  and  farther  re- 
ceding.   And  we  are  persuaded  that  in  many  country  parishes 
this  evil  might  have  been  prevented,  had  the  non-resident  heritors 
voluntarily  contributed  to  the  parish  funds  such  a  sum  as  might 
have  been  reasonably  expected  from  them,  had  they  been  weekly  in 
their  places  in  the  parish  church.  *    Had  this  much  to  be  depre- 
cated system  ever  been  introduced  into  this  parish,  its  principal 
cause  must  have  been  traced  to  the  long  period  during  which  no 
suitable  accommodation  was  provided  for  the  people  m  then-  pa- 
rish church.    Much  evil  results  from  want  of  due  attention  to  the 
comfort  of  the  parishioners  in  this  respect.    It  not  only  increas- 
es the  demand  upon  heritors  to  supply  their  diminished  poors'  funds, 
and  may  thus  lead  to  the  introduction  of  legal  assessments,  but  it 
goes  directly  to  foster  those  loose  principles,  and  to  induce  those 
habits  of  idleness  and  dissipation  which  give  rise  to  pauperism  it- 
self.   For  an  excuse  is  hereby  furnished  to  the  parishioners  for 
withdrawing  themselves  from  the  salutary  influence  of  the  weekly 
lessons  and  ministrations  of  the  gospel,  which  every  enlightened 
mind  will  acknowledge  are  the  most  efficient  of  all  means  lor  pro^ 

•  This  statement  is  fully  corroborated  by  an  experiment  made  in  one  of  the  pa- 
•  1,  c  ;n  FarLothian,  wiiere,  by  pursuing  a  plan  somewhat  similar  to  that  wlmh  w 
hSrsuVe    d  kg  a  assessme'ntJlere  no!  only  prevented,  but  actually  abolished  af- 
^    thPv  had  obtained  a  long  and  firm  footing  in  the  parish.-See  an  mtcresiing 
ter  hey        ob  au^^^^^  Considerations  addressed  to  the  Heritors  and  knk 

:::LToSS'  late  Uev.  W.  Stark.  Dir.eton. 


DALGETY. 


193 


moting  industry,  frugality,  and  prudence  amongst  our  peasantry, 
and  for  cherishing  that  spirit  of  honest  independence  which  will 
ever  associate  degradation  with  a  state  of  pauperism.  We  cannot 
say  that  any  disposition  is  evinced  on  the  part  of  the  people  to  re- 
frain from  applying  for  parochial  relief.  A  strict  attention,  how- 
ever, is  paid  to  withholding  assistance  from  those  who  have  any  pri- 
vate sources  of  charity  from  which  supplies  ought  to  be  afforded 
them. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
In  a  small  parish  like  this,  where  there  are  only  three  proprie- 
tors, and  where  one-half  of  the  parish  belongs  to  a  single  noble- 
man, few  changes  of  any  consequence  have  taken  place  within  the 
last  forty  years.  The  effects  of  steam-navigation  upon  our  popula- 
tion are  very  perceptible.    In  consequence  of  the  increased  faci- 
lities of  communication  with  the  metropolis,  their  original  charac- 
ter has  given  place,  in  many  respects,  to  the  habits  and  tastes  which 
more  peculiarly  distinguish  those  who  are  living  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  a  large  town.    Nothing  would  be  of  greater  advantage 
to  our  coal  population  than  a  well-regulated  savings  bank.  A  want 
of  prudence  and  foresight  seems  to  be  a  very  prominent  feature 
in  the  character  of  colliers.    However  great  may  be  their  wages, 
they  are  sure  to  make  their  weekly  expenditure  keep  pace  with 
them.  Any  system,  therefore,  which  would  introduce  habits  of  eco- 
nomy amongst  them,  might  render  our  colliers  the  most  indepen- 
dent and  comfortable  class  of  the  labouring  community. 

Mevised  June  18S6. 


N 


PARISH  OF  KINGLASSIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  J.  M.  CUNNYNGHAME,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
JSfame.  —  While  some  have  supposed  that  the  village  after 
which  the  parish  is  called,  derives  its  appellation  from  a  spring 
denominated  St  Glass's  Well,  others,  with  apparently  greater 
reason,  have  traced  the  name  to  Gaelic  words  signifying  the 
head  of  gray  land.  This  idea  seems  to  be  corroborated  by  the 
large  extent  of  inundated,  marshy,  and  mixed  surface  which,  al- 
though much  reduced  from  its  former  size,  still  stretches  itself  to 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  village.  The  preferable  conjecture 
concerning  the  derivation  of  the  name  acquires  additional  support 
from  the  circumstance,  that  a  locality,  somewhat  elevated  above 
the  channel,  along  which  the  water  runs  from  the  swamp  alluded 
to,  has  received  the  appropriate  designation  of  Finglassie,  signify- 
ing the  termination  of  the  gray  land,  or  mixed  bog. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.  —  The  parish  of  Kinglassie,  some- 
what irregular  in  figure,  is  computed  to  be  about  5  miles  and 
3  ftirlongs  long,  by  the  road  leading  through  the  village  from 
west  to  east.  The  breadth  varies  from  1  mile  to  3^.  The  total 
surface  comprises  about  5800  Scots  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  parishes  of  Markinch  and  Dysart;  on  the  south  by  the 
latter,  but  chiefly  by  that  of  Auchterderran,  also  stretching  along 
the  western  hmits  to  the  north-west  corner,  which  is  touched  by 
parts  of  Portmoak  and  Ballingry ;  and  its  northern  extremity  is 
washed  by  the  Leven,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  the  parishes 
of  Portmoak  and  Leslie  meet.  From  this  point  of  junction,  Port- 
moak takes  a  small  jutting  to  the  south  bank  of  the  Leven. 

Topographical  Appearances.— T^wee  ridges,  of  varied  height, 
steepness,  and  width,  run  towards  the  east,  where  they  assume  a 
lower  elevation.  From  the  northern  limits,  a  very  considerable 
acclivity  arises,  which  extends  along  the  whole  length  of  the  pa- 
rish.   The  lands  of  Goatmilk,  situated  on  this  range,  contam  two 


KINGLASSIE. 


195 


proximate  hills  of  no  very  diminutive  size.  A  square  tower,  52 
feet  from  the  base,  was  erected,  in  the  year  1812,  on  the  summit  of 
one  of  those  heights,  and  marks  at  a  great  distance  the  hill  of  Red- 
wells,  whose  southern  banks  slope  towards  the  village  of  Kinglas- 
sie,  in  a  declivity  of  about  160  feet.  The  ground  on  the  south  of 
the  village,  forming  the  middle  parallel  ridge,  rises  into  a  height  of 
considerable,  though  somewhat  inferior  altitude,  on  both  sides  of 
which  the  surface  gradually  subsides  into  gentle  inclinations  or  nar- 
row planes,  whose  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  about  200 
feet. 

Soil  and  Climate. — Considerable  variety  characterizes  both  the 
substratum  and  the  surface.  Clay,  loam,  and  gravel  are  often  in- 
termingled. The  greater  proportion  of  soil  is  strong  close-bot- 
tomed clay.  The  remainder  is  chiefly  diversified  by  moss  and  sand. 
Although  some  localities  seem  pecuharly  subjected  to  stagnant 
damps,  or  exposed  to  the  severities  of  the  weather,  yet,  upon  the 
whole,  the  climate  is  decidedly  wholesome  and  desirable. 

Hydrography. —  The  Leven,  proceeding  from  the  renowned  loch 
of  that  name  in  the  north-west  vicinity,  runs  eastward,  and  forms, 
as  has  been  already  mentioned,  the  northern  boundary  of  the  pa- 
rish. Bennarty  hill,  in  the  contiguous  neighbourhood,  sends  forth 
a  stream  which,  acquiring  accession  from  Bog  Lochty,  the  marshy, 
ground  to  which  allusion  has  been  made,  is  known  by  the  name 
of  Lochty.  This  rivulet,  intersecting  the  village  of  Kinglassie, 
glides  along  the  dale  situated  betwixt  the  northern  and  midland 
heights.  The  Orr,  which  takes  its  rise  from  the  loch  in  Ballin- 
gry  parish,  bearing  that  designation,  traverses  the  southern  level. 
These  small  waters  can  furnish  the  angler  with  perch,  pike,  and  eels. 
They  empty  themselves  into  the  Leven  at  a  very  small  distance 
beyond  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish.  A  diminutive  streamlet 
called  Sauchie,  which  pervades  a  few  fields  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cmity  of  the  village,  speedily  joins  Lochty.  There  are  many  springs, 
both  perennial  and  occasional. 

Mineralogy.— K[t\iowg\  at  no  very  remote  period,  coal-works 
were  in  operation,  yet  during  several  preceding  years  that  occupa- 
tion has  been  entirely  suspended  within  the  parish.  There  is  rea- 
son to  believe,  however,  that  were  coal  pits  less  numerous  in  the 
neighbourhood,  a  copious  supply  of  this  fossil  could  be  obtained. 
In  various  parts,  ironstone,  the  constant  companion  of  coal,  is 
found.  Limestone  was  lately  wrought  on  a  moderate  scale.  Whin- 
stone  rock  is  very  abundant:  indeed,  with  rare  exceptions,  the  whole 


l.*^^  FIFESIIIIIK. 

soil  overlays  it.    Freestone  quarries  have  been  opened.    Red  rotten 
rock  prevails  in  one  or  two  small  localities. 

Zoology. — Deer  are  found  in  the  parish.  Pheasants  are  plenti- 
ful. The  woodcock  takes  up  his  abode  during  the  winter  months. 
The  fowl  familiarly  called  the  cock  of  the  north  is  generally^con- 
sidered  as  the  forerunner  of  stormy  weather. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Land-owners,  8^c. — In  a  strictly  literal  sense,  there  are  15  pro- 
prietors, from  whose  lands  the  minister's  stipend  is  levied.  But 
as  one  estate  is  the  joint  property  of  the  four  family  representatives 
of  the  antecedent  owner,  the  number  of  heritors  may  be  said  to  be 
12.  The  principal  of  these,  in  point  of  valued  and  real  rental, 
are  Robert  Ferguson  of  Raith,  Esq. ;  the  elder  son,  a  minor,  of 
the  deceased  John  Aytoun  of  Inchdairnie,  Esq. ;  Lieutenant- Ge- 
neral Balfour  of  Balbirnie ;  and  the  Right  Honourable  the  Earl 
of  Rothes,  patron.  There  are  numerous  feudal  possessions,  the 
more  ancient  of  which  generally  pay  to  the  superior  the  yearly  ac- 
knowledgment of  7  id.  per  fall,  or  L.  5  per  acre ;  while  those  of 
recent  grant  are  held  at  the  advanced  rate  of  Is.  per  fall,  or  L.  8 
per  acre.  The  feus  in  the  village,  amounting  to  about  40,  hold 
of  General  Balfour,  who,  by  ancestral  purchase,  is  proprietor  of 
various  lands,  which  belonged  to  William  Aytoun  Douglas,  Esq. 

Eminent  Men. —  To  those  who  are  conversant  with  the  his- 
torical circumstances  connected  with  the  origin  of  the  Secession 
church,  the  name  of  the  Rev.  John  Currie  cannot  be  unknown. 
That  devout  man  was  inducted  to  the  pastoral  charge  of  this 
parish,  on  the  28th  September  1705,  and  died  on  the  22d.  Sep- 
tember 1765,  in  the  ninety-second  year  of  his  age,  and  within 
a  few  days  of  the  completion  of  the  sixtieth  year  of  his  minis- 
try. He  was  the  intimate  friend  and  epistolary  correspondent 
of  Ebenezer  and  Ralph  Erskine,  who  were  both  grieved  and 
astonished  that  they  could  not  persuade  him  to  act  in  accord- 
ance with  those  views  of  ecclesiastical  disciphne  and  economy 
which  had  led  them  and  others  to  renounce  subjection  to  the  judi- 
catories of  the  national  religious  establishment.  His  opinions  con- 
cerning  the  popular  prerogative  in  regard  to  the  election  of  Chris 
tian  pastors  are  set  forth  in  a  treatise  designated  «  Vox  Popuh  vo 
Dei."— Whatever  estimate  may  be  formed  of  that  production,  or  of 
other  writings  which  emanated  from  his  pen,  it  is  undeniable  that 
the  venerable  author  was  eminently  characterized  by  the  purity 
and  simplicity  of  his  manners,  and  by  the  pious  and  affectionate  as- 


KINGLASSIE. 


197 


siduity  which  accompanied  the  discharge  of  his  pastoral  duties. 
During  the  last  fifteen  years  of  his  life,  his  ministerial  labours  were 
lightened,  and  his  tottering  steps  sustained  by  the  faithful  and  un- 
wearied services  of  his  son  William,  who  had  been  ordained  assist- 
ant and  successor  on  the  13th  March  1750.  In  less  than  five 
years  the  son,  after  a  protracted  illness,  followed  the  father  to  the 
grave,  in  the  forty-ninth  year  of  his  age. 

Antiquities. — A  pillar  of  hewn  stone,  4  feet  9  inches  in  height 
above  the  socket  in  which  it  is  embossed,  1\  inches  broad,  and  1 1 
inches  thick,  has,  from  time  immemorial,  stood  upon  the  farm  of 
Dogtown.  It  bears  the  remaining  marks  of  some  hieroglyphical 
emblems  or  ornamental  sculpture  in  relief,  which  have  been  defa- 
ced by  the  "  peltings  of  the  pitiless  storm,"  or  the  rude  touch  of  de- 
structive man.  Antiquarians  have  conjectured  that  this  column 
was  set  up  by  the  Danes,  to  commemorate  the  exploits  of  some  il- 
lustrious warrior  who  had  fallen  on  the  spot,  during  an  engage- 
ment consequent  upon  their  hostile  invasion  of  Fife,  in  the  reign 
of  Constantine  II. ;  while  others  have  supposed  that  it  was  rear- 
ed by  the  Scots  to  perpetuate  their  successful  resistance  of  the 
foreign  foe,  who  had  encamped  on  both  sides  of  the  Leven.  We 
learn  from  the  page  of  the  historian,  that  those  depredators  hav- 
ing been  prevented  from  uniting  their  forces,  in  consequence  of 
the  sudden  and  extensive  swelling  of  the  river,  were  speedily  and 
effectually  routed  by  the  Scots.  Goat-milk-hill  constituted  one 
of  the  links  in  the  chain  of  Danish  forts,  which  stretched  from 
Fifeness  to  Stirling.  While  those  positions  were  occupied  by  the 
invaders,  a  mill  was  erected  on  the  Leven,  which  retains  the  name 
of  Mill-danes.  During  the  recent  operations  of  levelling  the  chan- 
nel of  that  water,  several  heads  of  iron  spears,  a  Roman  sword, 
and  battle-axe  presented  themselves.  A  dagger  of  antique  appear- 
ance, 18  inches  long,  having  a  wooden  handle,  partially  overlaid 
with  brass,  was  lately  found  in  a  draw-well  on  the  farm  of  west 
Finglassie,  which  was  reopened  after  having  remained  shut,  so  far 
as  can  be  ascertained,  for  centuries. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  most  remote  records  of  baptisms  and 
sessional  procedure  bear  the  date  of  a.  d.  1627.  Those  of  mar- 
riage contracts  commence  twenty  years  subsequent  to  that  period. 
Instead  of  classification  having  been  always  duly  observed,  there  is  aa 
occasional  commingling  of  matters  belonging  to  these  separate  de- 
partments. Unless  by  those  familiar  with  obsolete  manuscripts^ 
some  of  the  ancient  registers  are  not  legible.  For  many  years  past. 


198 


FIFESHIRE. 


discipline  proceedings,  births,  marriages,  and  poors'  funds  have  had 
each  their  distinct  and  appropriate  register. 

III. — Population. 
The  official  report  of  Dr  Webster,  eighty  years  ago,  states  that  the 
total  number  of  inhabitants  then  amounted  to  998.  The  Parlia- 
mentary census  of  1821  represents  the  population  at  10*27;  and 
that  of  1831  at  958,  of  whom  there  are  488  males,  and  470  fe- 
males. According  to  this  last  return,  there  are  224  families  resi- 
dent under  198  roofs.  Of  those  families,  66  are  employed  in 
agriculture;  153  in  manufactures,  trade,  and  handicraft;  and  5 
in  other  avocations.  It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  mention,  that, 
during  a  course  of  pastoral  visitation,  which  was  made  in  the 
months  of  February  and  March  of  the  present  year,  when  a  mi- 
nute numerical  survey  was  taken,  the  total  population  was  ascertain- 
ed to  be  1050  souls.  Of  that  number,  755  are  above  twelve  years 
of  age,  and  295  have  not  yet  reached  that  period. 

Resident  Heritors. — The  country  seat  of  one  of  the  principal 
heritors  is  usually  occupied  by  himself  and  family  during  one-half 
of  the  year.  With  this  exception,  and  that  of  a  small  proprietor, 
there  are  no  residing  heritors. 

The  annual  average  of  births  during  the  last  seven  years  has 
been  about  26;  deaths,  13;  of  marriages,  11. 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People. — Sobriety,  industry,  and 
respect  for  religion  are  qualities,  which,  with  few  exceptions,  mark 
the  great  mass  of  the  population.  Considerable  attention  is  paid 
to  neatness  of  dress  and  cleanliness  of  personal  appearance.  And 
in  such  estimation  is  neatness  of  apparel  held,  that  the  want  of  rai- 
ment equal  in  quality  to  that  of  a  next  door  neighbour  is,  in  some 
instances,  viewed  as  a  valid  apdlogy  for  absence  from  church,  not 
only  when  there  exists  no  decided  disinclination,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
a  seeming  anxiety  to  attend.  While  a  commendable  regard  to  per- 
sonal and  dotnestic  spruceness  is  often  observable,  yet  some  of  those 
families  and  individuals  occasionally  discover  a  neglect  of  various 
essential  branches  of  comfort  and  convenience.  Now  and  then 
the  stagnant  puddle  and  the  nauseous  dunghill  form  a  striking- 
contrast  to  the  interior  aspect  of  the  contiguous  dwelling. — On  old 
handsel  Monday,  there  is  a  general  cessation  of  professional  labour; 
neighbourly  visits  are  interchanged,  and  raffles  are  practised.  . 

During  the  three  years  preceding  the  1st  June  last,  the  number 
of  illegitimate  births  in  the  parish  was  9. 


KINGLASSIE. 


199 


IV. — Industry. 

Jgriculture. — The  parish  contains  about  34  farms,  the  largest 
of  which  amounts  in  whole  to  377  Scots  acres.  No  other  ex- 
ceeds 234.  Three  of  these  are  below  60  acres.  Smaller  portions 
of  land  are  also  occupied  upon  nineteen  years  leases.  Besides,  two 
farms,  whose  steadings  are  beyond  its  limits,  stretch  themselves  into 
the  parish.  Such  has  been  the  encouragement  given  by  considerate 
and  liberal  landlords  to  skilful  and  industrious  tenants,  that  the 
quantity  of  ground  now  brought  under  the  plough  can  scarcely  be 
estimated  below  5200  Scots  acres.  356  acres  are  covered  with 
thriving  plantations.  The  remaining  244  are  unarable,  being  either 
overlaid  with  rock,  steep  on  the  surface,  or  laid  out  in  roads.  Not- 
withstanding the  difficulties  which  discourage  improvements,. a  con- 
siderable deal  of  soil  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital, 
be  added  to  the  cultivated  land,  or  to  that  which  is  already  covered 
with  wood.  The  prevailing  trees  are  larch,  spruce,  fir,  and  ash. 
One  considerable  plantation  abounds  with  excellent  beech  and  oak. 

Rent—Ks  variety  characterises  the  soil,  a  diversity  of  rents  like- 
wise obtains.  The  extreme  rates  at  which  land  is  let  per  Scots  acre 
are,  L.  1  and  L.  3, 1 5s.  It  is  a  small  proportion,  however,  which  is 
leased  at  either  of  these  sums;  L.  1,  9s.  9d.  per  Scots  acre  may  be 
considered  as  the  average  rent  of  arable  ground.  Pasturage  for  a 
cow  generally  costs  L.  3,  10s.,  and  that  for  a  sheep  L.  1,  5s.  Grass 
parks  usually  bring  about  L.  2  per  acre. 

Draining. — During  the  last  twenty  years  nearly  300  acres  have 
been  reclaimed.  The  cultivators  of  the  soil  have  of  late  been  par- 
ticularly careful  in  drawing  off  that  superabundance  of  moisture 
which  is  so  inimical  to  the  production  of  healthy  and  luxuriant 
crops.  In  practical  attention  to  this  department  of  rural  economy, 
the  late  Mr  Aytoun  of  Inchdairnie  was  very  active,  judicious,  and 
successful.  The  depth  of  the  close  drains  made  under  his  direc- 
tion was  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  soil  which  they  were  in- 
tended to  improve.  Some  of  those  on  strong  clay  are  eight  feet 
below  the  surface. 

Live-stock,  Sfc. — Almost  the  whole  cattle  are  of  the  pure  Fife 
breed,  of  which  the  black  horned  are  the  most  prevalent.  The 
number  of  calves  annually  reared  may  be  estimated  at  300. 

In  regard  to  farm-steadings,  material  improvements  have  taken 
place.  Towards  their  tenantry,  landlords  have  in  this  and  other 
respects  manifested  a  judicious  and  benevolent  regard. 

With  very  rare  exceptions,  the  different  farms  have  thrashing- 


200 


FIFESHIUE. 


mills  attached ;  three  of  these  are  propelled  by  water,  and  one  by 
steam.  This  last,  seven  horse  power,  has  been  in  operation  two 
years. 

Iron  ploughs  are  almost  universally  used.  The  mode  of  hus- 
bandry varies  according  to  circumstances.  Some  farmers  apportion 
their  land  in  the  following  ratio :  two-sevenths,  oats ;  one-seventh 
wheat  and  barley ;  one-seventh  green  crop  and  summer  fallow ; 
three-sevenths  grass  pastured,  sometimes  for  three  years.  One 
boll  is  the  usual  quantity  of  oats  and  wheat  allotted  to  the  Scots  acre, 
from  which  the  return  is  often  tenfold.  Three  firlots  constitute  the 
ordinary  measure  of  barley  sown  on  the  acre,  which  not  seldom  issue 
in  the  production  of  ten  bolls.  The  rearing  of  flax,  which  for  a 
series  of  years  had  been  very  much  given  up,  has  of  late  become 
more  frequent  and  remunerative.  Three  mills  are  employed  in 
manufacturing  this  article. 

Rate  of  Wages. — A  male  farm-servant  who  is  married  usually 
receives  as  his  anual  payment  L.  11  or  L.  12  in  money,  6^ 
bolls  of  meal,  and  about  a  Scots  pint  of  milk  daily,  together 
with  the  use  of  a  dwelling  house  and  a  small  garden  plot.  The 
additional  privilege  of  twenty-four  falls  of  potatoe  ground  is,  in 
most  cases,  enjoyed.  Full-grown  young  men  are  often  hired  on 
nearly  the  same  pecuniary  terms  as  the  former,  and  receive  their 
victuals  in  their  master's  house.  The  ordinary  wages  of  a  domes- 
tic female  servant  are  L.  5,  10s.  Harvest  reapers  are  almost  al- 
ways engaged  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  winter,  and  become 
bound  to  remain  with  their  respective  employers  twenty-four  law- 
ful days,  or  until  the  labours  peculiar  to  autumn  shall  be  complet- 
ed. The  rate  at  which  a  man  is  hired  for  that  season  is  commonly 
L.  2,  10s.,  and  a  woman  L.  1,  10s.  or  L.  1,  15s.  with  lodging  and 
victuals.  Shearers  whose  houses  are  at  hand  receive  a  little  more 
money.  The  highest  pay  given  to  a  male  is  L.  3,  and  to  a  female 
L.  2.  A  hay-cutter  earns  2s.  6d.  daily.  The  summer  hire  of  an 
ordinary  labourer  is  Is.  8d. ;  women  employed  in  field  labour  usu- 
ally gain  9d. 

Produce. — 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  .....  L.  14970    0  tt 

Potatoes,  turnips,  &c.  .....  4080    0  © 

Hay,  whetlier  meadow  or  cultivated,        ....         2500    0  0 

Flax,  .   270   0  0 

Land  in  pasture,  rating  it  at  L.3,  10s  per  cow  or  full-grown  ox,  graz- 
ed, or  that  may  be  grazed  for  the  season  ; — at  L.  1,  5s.  per  ewe  or 
full-grown  sheep,  pastured,  or  that  may  be  pastured  for  the  year,    .    2032  10  (J 
Gardens  and  orchards,  .  .....       180    0  " 

Annual  and  periodical  thinning  of  woods,  plantations,  and  copse,       .      536  0 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised  .        .       L.  24568  10 


KINGI.ASSIE. 


201 


V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Village  and  Means  of  Communication. — The  only  village  in  the 
parish  is  that  of  Kinglassie,  whose  present  population  is  375.  Its 
inhabitants  consist  principally  of  weavers,  and  other  handicraft 
tradesmen.  About  twenty-four  looms  are  now  in  use, — several  of 
which  are  plied  by  females.  The  comparatively  small  income 
arising  from  that  occupation  induced,  of  late  years,  a  considerable 
proportion  of  men  to  exchange  it  for  agricultural  employments. 
There  are  3  public-houses,  and  the  same  number  of  small  gro- 
cery shops.  Brewing  of  small-beer,  ale,  and  porter  is  regularly 
carried  on.  Bread  and  butcher-meat  are  constantly  supplied  by 
professional  tradesmen.  Two  fairs  occur  in  the  course  of  the 
year ; — one  on  the  third  Wednesday  of  May,  old  style ;  the  other  on 
the  Thursday  immediately  preceding  Michaelmas,  old  style.  An 
agricultural  association,  formed  upwards  of  twenty  years  ago,  holds 
its  annual  meeting  here  in  the  month  of  August.  It  consists  of 
about  forty  practical  farmers  ;  and  its  objects  are  countenanced  by 
the  membership  of  several  landed  proprietors.  Last  season  there 
were  exhibited  110  head  of  cattle  and  43  horses. 

The  village  lies  about  six  miles  to  the  northward  of  Kirkaldy, 
which  is  the  post-town.  Communication  with  that  burgh  is  enjoy- 
ed by  means  of  several  individuals,  whose  business  as  carriers  re- 
peatedly leads  them  thither  in  the  course  of  the  week.  Easy  ac- 
cess to  metal  has,  in  connection  with  other  circumstances,  produ- 
ced a  very  material  improvement  on  the  state  of  the  principal  roads. 
But  although  much  has  been  done  in  this  respect,  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, that  not  a  little  remains  unaccomplished.  There  are  no  toll- 
bars  within  the  parochial  precincts.  The  east  end  of  the  parish  is 
intersected  by  the  road  leading  from  Kirkaldy  to  Cupar,  on  which 
coaches  betwixt  Edinburgh  and  Dundee  run  daily.  It  has  lately 
been  alfo  traversed  regularly  by  a  coach  betwixt  the  metropolis 
and  Perth.    There  are  about  twelve  small  stone  bridges. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  only  place  of  public  worship  is  the 
parish  church.  Situated  within  a  mile  of  the  south-west  boundary, 
and  distant  several  miles  from  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  po- 
pulation, its  locality  subjects  not  a  few  to  great  inconvenience.  But 
although  some  parishioners  are  so  remote  as  nearly  five  miles ;  yet 
as  the  village,  where  the  church  is  placed,  contains  a  third  of  the 
population,  and  as  its  immediate  vicinity  is  interspersed  with  seve- 
ral agricultural  hamlets,  the  ecclesiastical  edifice  may,  upon  the 
whole,  be  viewed  as  standing  in  the  most  eligible  spot.  The 


202 


FIFESHIRE. 


exterior  of  the  fiibric  has  a  heavy  appearance,  being  nearly  90 
feet  long,  and  of  very  subordinate  and  disproportionate  dimensions 
in  height  and  breadth.  The  east  gable,  and  part  of  the  contigu- 
ous side  walls  are  supposed  to  have  stood  for  at  least  two  centuries. 
The  remainder  was  rebuilt  in  1773,  when  the  whole  received  a 
new  roof.  For  many  subsequent  years,  however,  the  church  con- 
tinued with  unplastered  walls,  and  without  any  ceiling.  About  fif- 
teen years  ago,  the  inside  underwent  such  repairs  as  have  render- 
ed it  a  very  comfortable  place  of  worship.  There  are  sittings  for 
nearly  350.  The  pews  are  allocated  among  the  heritors  accord- 
ing to  their  respective  valued  rents,  and  are  occupied,  without  any 
pecuniary  remuneration,  by  tenants,  feuars,  and  other  classes  of 
persons.  A  distinct  appropriation  of  a  greater  number  of  sittings  for 
such  parishioners  as  are  not  connected  with  landed  proprietors  by 
any  peculiar  tie  would  certainly  be  beneficial ; — for  it  cannot  be 
denied,  that,  although  no  seat  rents  are  exacted  or  paid,  yet  the 
fear  of  being  viewed  as  unwelcome  intruders,  by  those  who  have 
obtained  a  previous  occupancy,  may  sometimes  operate  as  a  dis- 
couragement of  regular  attendance.  Fully  foui-fifths  of  the  peo- 
ple professedly  belong  to  the  Established  Church.  Of  these  about 
350  are  communicants.  The  dissenting  or  seceding  portion  of 
the  population  are  generally  connected  either  with  the  United  Se- 
cession church,  or  with  the  religious  denomination  adhering  to  the 
Associate  Synod  of  Original  Seceders.  A  very  limited  number  are 
of  the  Relief  and  Baptist  persuasions. 

The  manse,  which  is  hard  by  the  church,  was  built  in  1774, 
and  was  repaired  in  1818.  The  glebe  contains  a  little  more  than 
6  Scots  acres.  The  stipend,  augmented  in  1823,  is  15  chal- 
ders  of  victual,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  payable  according  to  the 
highest  county  fiars.  The  sum  of  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  is  paid  under  the 
name  of  communion  element  money.  * 

The  parochial  register  of  1682  acknowledges  the  receipt  of  four 
silver  communion  cups  as  the  donation  of  Mr  Melvill,  formerly  mi- 
nister of  this  parish.  Those  cups  are  still  used  in  the  celebration  of 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper.  Each  bears  the  following 
inscription  : — "  Haec  quatuor  pocula  ejusdem  ponderis  et  mensu- 
rse  ecclesias  de  Kinglassie  sacravit  Mr  Thomas  Melvill  non  ita, 
pridem  pastor  ibidem." 

Education. — The  parochial  school  is  situated  in  the  village. 

•  The  tcinds  of  Kinglassie  were,  a.  d.  1234,  mortified  by  the  Bishop  of  St  An- 
drews,  "  Deo  St  Margarcte  et  monachis  de  Diuifennline,"  as  the  records  of  that 
abbacy  bear. 


KINLGASSIE. 


203 


Besides  the  maximum  saLary,  amounting  to  L.  34,  4s.  4id.,  along 
with  a  dwelling-house  and  garden,  the  schoolmaster  annually  re- 
ceives six  bolls  of  oats,  the  bequest  of  an  ancient  proprietor.  This 
seminary  is  at  present  attended  by  about  100  scholars.  The  or- 
dinary branches  of  education,  including  English  grammar  and  the 
elementary  principles  of  general  knowledge,  are  taught  with  dili" 
gence  and  ability.  Means  of  instruction  in  mathematics  and  clas- 
sical learning  are  also  furnished.  The  principles  of  revealed  re- 
ligion are  sedulously  instilled.  Forty  are  employed  in  arithmetic, 
20  more  are  learning  to  write.  The  teacher  may  receive  about 
L.  34  a-year  of  fees.  * 

The  village  has  also  a  small  female  school,  in  which  knitting 
and  sewing  are  taught  for  a  very  moderate  sum. 

On  the  southern  boundary,  there  is  a  school,  which  is  pretty  well 
attended.  Its  erection  proceeded  from  the  kindness  of  Mr  Fer- 
guson of  Raith,  who  has  allotted  to  its  teacher  a  free  dwelling- 
house  and  garden,  with  a  yearly  pecuniary  allowance. 

So  commendably  desirous  are  parents  of  furnishing  their  chil- 
dren with  the  means  of  education,  that  there  is  hardly  an  instance 
in  which  an  individual  beyond  six  years  of  age  is  unable  to  read 
more  or  less  accurately.  To  the  same  praiseworthy  feeling,  is  to 
be  ascribed  the  comparatively  small  number  among  the  youthful 
portion  of  the  population,  altogether  unskilled  in  the  arts  of  writ- 
ing and  arithmetic.  Children  are  usually  sent  to  school  about  five 
years  of  age  ;  although  in  several  instances,  distance  of  locality  and 
badness  of  roads  forbid  that  early  initiation.  But  in  these  and 
other  cases,  some  elementary  training  is  for  the  most  part  practis- 
ed at  home. 

A  Sabbath  school  in  the  village  is  numerously  attended,  and 
judiciously  conducted. 

Library. — Access  to  a  small  parochial  library  is  obtainable  at  a 
very  moderate  rate ;  and  through  the  generosity  of  a  benevolently 
disposed  lady,  the  youth  belonging  to  the  village  Sunday  school  are 
gratuitously  furnished  with  the  weekly  perusal  of  interesting  and 
instructive  books. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.—  Various  individuals  receive  a  fixed 
monthly  aliment,  others  get  only  occasional  aid,  and  several  house 

•  The  schoolmaster  lately  retired  from  the  charge  of  the  school  on  account  of  his 
aavancea  age  ;  but  is  secured  for  life  in  the  enjoyment  of  tlie  legal  salary,  and  of  the 
house  and  garden.  He  is  entitled  to  the  trifling  sums  which  arise  from  making  up 
the  1  arhamentary  census  and  registering  voters  for  a  Member  of  Parliament, 
ine  acting  teacher,  beside  the  school  fees,  receives  from  the  heritors  annually  L.  20. 
and  draws  the  fiars  price  of  the  six  bolls  of  oats  to  which  reference  has^ecn  made.  ' 


204 


rii'EsniRE. 


rents  are  annually  paid,  in  whole  or  in  part.  The  first  of  these 
classes  is  composed  at  present  of  12  families,  more  or  less  nu- 
merous, and  requiring  of  course  different  degrees  of  pecuniary  re- 
lief. Temporary  supplies  are  afforded  to  others  when  visited  with 
sickness,  or  otherwise  deprived  of  the  means  of  earning  a  liveli- 
hood. This  description  of  beneficiaries  generally  comprises  about 
15  families.  On  these  different  objects  of  parochial  charity, 
about  L.  72  communibus  annis  are  laid  out  in  the  course  of  the 
year. 

The  funds  from  which  the  poor  receive  relief  arise  from  church 
door  collections,  land,  marriages,  mortcloths,  erection  of  tomb- 
stones, and  interest  on  bank  deposits.   As  the  means  of  supply  are 
very  much  strengthened  by  the  second  of  these  sources,  the  weekly 
contributions  (not  generally  amounting  to  L.  13  per  annum)  are  less 
liberal  than  in  other  circumstances  they  would  be.  Although  the  pa- 
rishioners are  the  reverse  of  wealthy,  yet  handsome  sums  have  been 
collected  at  church  for  pious  and  benevolent  purposes.  The  land- 
ed property,  to  which  reference  has  been  made,  lies  in  the  parish 
of  Abernethy,  Perthshire,  and  was  purchased  in  the  year  1726  for 
6600  merks.   What  i-ent  was  paid  at  that  period  is  not  exactly  as- 
certained ;  but  in  terms  of  a  tack  granted  in  1 762,  it  was  fixed  at  200 
merks.  It  was  subsequently  raised  to  L.  36,  and  afterwards  to  L.  50, 
with  the  additional  obligation  of  discharging  public  burdens  to  an 
amount  somewhat  exceeding  L.  6,    The  immediately  succeeding 
lease  of  the  poors'  farm,  extending  to  nineteen  years  from  Martinmas 
1835,  stipulates  that  the  tenant  shall  annually  pay  L.l  00,  and  advance 
the  various  legal  assessments  due  from  the  land,  for  which,  on  the 
production  of  discharges,  he  is  entitled  to  discount  out  of  the  rent. 
As  these  imposts  are  considerable,  and  as  the  joint  administrators 
for  the  poor  incurred  great  expense  in  building  a  dwelling-house 
and  stone  fences,  and  in  otherwise  enhancing  the  value  of  the  pro- 
perty, the  pecuniary  return  has  been  much  abridged.  Beside  emer- 
gencies, the  regular  annual  drawbacks  on  the  farm  amount  to 
about  L.  10. 

The  only  marriage  fee  payable  to  the  poors'  fund  is  2s.  when 
the  bride's  residence  is  within  the  parish.  Three  parish  mort- 
cloths are  severally  lent  at  5s.,  3s.  6d.,  and  2s.  The  united  sa- 
laries of  synod,  presbytery,  and  session-clerks,  precentor,  and  kirk- 
officer  amount  to  L.  10,  10s. 

In  several  instances  of  known  or  suspected  indigence,  a  strong 
aversion  to  receive  parochial  aid  has  been  occasionally  evinced, — 
while,  in  cases  less  urgent,  a  very  different  spirit  has  appeared. 


DUNBOCJ. 


205 


Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Among  the  many  improvements  which  have  taken  place  since 
the  last  Statistical  Account  was  drawn  up, — the  great  accession 
made  to  the  cultivated  land, — the  appropriation  of  unproductive 
wastes  to  valuable  plantations,  and  the  increased  attention  paid  to 
draining,  are  deserving  of  high  commendation.  In  consequence 
of  the  recent  deepening  and  widening  of  the  Leven  water- 
course, the  circumjacent  soil  has  been  rendered  far  less  suc- 
culent, and  more  susceptible  of  melioration.  Similar  beneficial 
alterations  are  in  progress  on  a  part  of  the  Lochty.  Although 
there  is  no  savings'  bank  in  the  parish,  yet  some  individuals  with 
laudable  prudence  and  propriety,  deposit  a  portion  of  their  earn- 
ings in  some  of  those  excellent  institutions  which  happily  exist  in 
the  vicinity. 

June  1836. 


PARISH  OF  DUN  BOG. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ADAM  CAIRNS,  D.D.  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — The  name  of  the  parish  is  variously  written  in  the  an- 
cient records  as  Dinbug,  Denbuig,  Dunbog,  Dunbolg,  and  Dun- 
boig.  It  is  evidently  of  Celtic  derivation,  and  may  be  translated 
"  the  hog  of  the  hill."  Like  all  Celtic  names,  it  is  descriptive  of 
the  general  character  of  the  district.  Within  the  memory  of  man, 
the  low-lying  part  of  the  parish  was  an  extensive  marsh,  which  ran 
along  the  base  of  the  highest  hill  in  the  north  of  Fife,  anciently 
denominated  Dunmore,  or  the  great  hill,  though  now  known  by 
the  Saxon  name  Norman's  Law.  The  Gaelic  appellation,  how- 
ever, is  still  given  to  the  property  to  which  the  mountain  belongs, 
and  from  this  we  infer  that  Dunbog  is  the  original  and  correct  name 
of  the  parish. 

Extent,  Boundaries. — The  parish  of  Dunbog  is  of  irregular 
figure  and  diminutive  extent.  It  ranges  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  its  greatest  length  not  exceeding  4  miles;  its  ex- 
treme breadth  being  about  1^,  and  its  least  not  more,  perhaps, 


206  FIPESHIRFi. 

than  half  a  mile.  On  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  the  parish  of 
'Flisk;  on  the  east  by  a  section  of  Abdie ;  on  the  south  by  Moni- 
mail ;  and  on  the  west  by  Abdie. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  parish  consists  of  two  ridges 
or  prolongations  of  two  chains  of  hills  that  intersect  this  portion 
of  Fife  ;  and  of  the  valley  enclosed  between  them.  The  north- 
ern ridffe  is  a  continuation  of  Norman's-law.  It  is  cultivated 
to  the  top,  and  produces  every  description  of  grain  of  excellent 
quality.  From  the  farm-house  of  Higham,  which  is  perched  on 
the  summit,  it  descends  precipitously  to  the  level  carse  land  that 
borders  the  Tay  from  Newburgh  to  Birkhill,  and  which  is  gene- 
rally known  by  the  name  of  the  Barony.  A  narrow  stripe  of  Dun- 
bog  parish  reaches  the  banks  of  the  river,  to  the  westward  of 
Balinbriech  Castle,  and  is  called  Higham  Flouts.  From  any  point 
of  this  northern  elevation,  the  prospect  that  meets  the  view  is  of 
equal  grandeur  and  beauty.  The  eye  from  this  commanding  po- 
sition takes  in  a  vast  extent  of  country,  diversified  with  all  the  fea- 
tures of  the  most  interesting  scenery,  on  a  scale  of  unusual  mag- 
nitude. The  rugged  Grampians  fill  up  the  horizon  to  the  north, 
towering  above  the  intervening  range  of  the  Sidlaws,  which  form 
the  southern  boundary  of  Strathmore.  To  the  westward,  the  eye 
follows  the  windings  of  the  Tay,  till  it  is  lost  behind  a  projecting 
shoulder  of  the  hill  of  Kinnoul,  and  surveys  almost  with  the  same 
glance  the  valley  of  the  Earn  intersected  by  its  shining  river. 
Opposite,  is  spread  out  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  smooth  and  level  as 
a  floor,  and  confessedly  one  of  the  most  fertile  districts  of  Great 
Britain ;  and  to  the  east  appears  the  flourishing  town  of  Dundee, 
and  the  Tay,  now  increased  to  an  estuary,  mingling  its  waters  with 
those  of  the  German  Ocean. 

The  southern  ridge,  again,  is,  at  least  in  the  parish  of  Dunbog, 
of  greater  altitude  than  the  one  to  the  north.  Generally  speak- 
ing, it  is  uncultivated  and  almost  barren.  Patches  of  it  have  in- 
deed, of  late  years,  been  brought  under  tillage  by  the  use  of  bone 
manure ;  but  improvement  in  this  way  seems  to  be  carried  as  far 
as  nature  will  allow ;  the  prevailing  character  of  the  hill  being 
rocky  and  sterile.  The  greatest,  and  perhaps  the  only,  improve- 
ment of  which  these  dreary  heights  are  susceptible,  is  that  which 
would  be  accomplished  by  planting  them  with  wood ;  and  it  is  im- 
possible not  to  regret,  and  that  deeply,  that  this  very  obvious  and 
simple  improvement  had  not  been  attended  to  long  ago.  The  val- 
ley included  between  these  hills  is  composed  of  excellent  soil,  pro- 


DUN130G. 


207 


(lucing  abundant  crops  of  wheat,  barley,  oats.  What  was  former- 
ly a  noxious  morass  is  now  good  and  valuable  land.  The  exact 
elevation  of  the  hills  above  the  level  of  the  sea  has  not  been  as- 
certained with  perfect  accuracy,  but  the  extreme  height  is  comput- 
ed to  be  about  500  feet. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious,  and  no  better  proof  of  this 
can  be  adduced  than  the  robust  health  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the 
great  old  age  to  which  many  of  them  attain. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — The  hills  and  the  basin  that  lies  be- 
tween them  are  composed  of  whinstone  or  trap  rock.  The  dip  of 
such  parts  as  have  been  exposed  to  view  is  nearly  vertical.  On  the 
very  summit  of  the  hill,  rolled  blocks  of  granite  are  met  with,  some  of 
them  of  considerable  size.  In  the  valley,  the  whinstone  is  covered 
by  a  rich  black  mould  of  no  great  depth,  and  through  which  the 
rock  pierces  in  numerous  places,  forming  barren  spots,  or  snobs,  in 
the  midst  of  the  best  fields.  The  greatest  portion  of  the  soil  in 
the  parish  is  of  this  sort,  resting  immediately  on  the  rock,  or  on  a 
bed  of  gravel  interposed.  We  have  indeed  a  few  fields  of  a  clay- 
ey texture,  and  towards  the  east  the  soil  becomes  of  much  sharper 
quality,  though  equally  productive.  From  the  nature  of  the  subsoil, 
the  ground  is  easily  drained,  and  is  therefore  dry  and  early,  A 
considerable  part  of  the  arable  ground  consists  of  the  reclaimed 
bog.  This  great  improvement  was  effected  about  thirty  years  ago 
by  the  united  contributions  of  the  proprietors  through  whose  do- 
mains it  ran.  Previous  to  the  execution  of  this  measure,  an  exten- 
sive tract  of  ground  was  covered  with  brushwood,  with  large  stag- 
nant pools  of  bog  water  ;  and  in  the  more  favourable  spaces,  with 
a  coarse  and  rank  grass,  which  afforded  a  scanty  nourishment  to  the 
few  half-starved  cattle  that  waded  about  in  search  of  subsistence.  It 
is  now  converted  into  fruitful  corn-fields.  The  soil,  however,  is  soft 
or  mossy,  and  not  well  qualified  for  growing  wheat.  The  sub- 
soil is  various.  In  some  places,  it  is  cold  clay,  in  others  a  hard  till, 
but  generally  it  is  composed  of  sand  and  gravel.  In  this  mossy  soil, 
there  are  still  found  pieces  of  oak  trees,  black  as  ebony,  but  other- 
wise in  a  state  of  excellent  preservation,  and  which  must  in  all  pro- 
bability have  lain  there  for  many  centuries. 

Zoology. — There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  zoology  of  this 
parish.  It  may  perhaps  be  worthy  of  notice  that  a  pair  of  starhngs 
built  their  nest  and  brought  out  their  young  last  summer  in  the 
shnibbery  of  Dunbog  House.  The  young  birds  were  taken  from 
the  nest,  when  neariy  fledged,  and  are  still  alive  in  the  neighbour- 


208 


FIFESIIIIIK. 


hood,  amusing  their  captors  with  their  mimic  song.  A  few  years 
ago,  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Strix  Jlammea,  or  white  owl,  was  caught 
in  this  vicinity,  and  is  now  stuffed  and  in  possession  of  the  author. 
It  is  so  very  rare  in  this  quarter,  that  no  person  could  give  it  a 
name,  or  say  they  had  ever  seen  such  a  bird  before.  The  speci- 
men, however,  though  full-grown,  is  evidently  a  young  bird ;  and 
we  have  no  doubt  that  the  white  owl,  which  is  very  common  in 
many  parts  of  England,  and  not  by  any  means  a  stranger  in  Scot- 
land, had  bred  in  the  woods  both  of  Dunbog  and  Ayton,  when 
there  was  more  shelter  for  it  than  there  is  now.  A  few  roe -deer 
frequent  the  hills  and  plantations,  and  are  known  to  breed  here ; 
but  they  are  so  destructive  to  the  young  corns  that  they  will  not  be 
permitted  to  increase  to  any  extent.  Besides  these,  we  have  the 
usual  sorts  of  game,  but  not  in  such  abundance  as  to  hurt  the  in- 
terests of  the  farmer. 

Botany. — There  is  very  little  wood  in  the  parish.  Did  it  pos- 
sess the  benefit  of  a  resident  proprietor,  this  glaring  defect  would 
speedily  be  remedied.  The  greater  portion  of  the  parish  belongs 
to  Lord  Dundas,  who  has  of  course  little  personal  interest  in  or- 
namental improvement.  But  it  is  impossible  to  look  on  the  naked 
hills,  overrun  with  gorse  and  bracken,  without  indulging  a  wish  to 
see  them  clothed  and  beautified  with  forest  trees.  In  their  present 
state,  they  are  comparatively  worthless,  but  were  they  covered  with 
wood,  they  would  not  only  become  of  much  greater  value  to  the 
proprietors  in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  but  they  would  afford  shel- 
ter both  to  the  flocks  and  subjacent  fields,  and  sensibly  ameliorate 
the  chmate.  At  no  distant  period,  the  valley  of  Dunbog  was  pretty 
well  wooded ;  but  now  little  remains  except  within  the  pleasure 
ground  of  the  old  mansion-house.  Even  there,  the  trees  are  ra- 
pidly decaying,  and  a  few  years  more  will  witness  their  total  disap- 
pearance. The  kinds  that  seem  to  thrive  best  are  the  plane,  the 
ash,  and  the  elm. 

II. — Civil  History. 

The  only  historical  notice  of  this  parish  that  we  are  acquainted 
with,  is  contained  in  Sibbald's  History  of  Fife,  first  published  in 
1682.  In  a  book  entitled  "  Reliquiae  Divi  Andreae,"  by  Martme 
of  Clermont,  who  appears  to  have  been  secretary  to  Archbishop 
Sharpe,  there  are  allusions  to  persons  and  places  in  the  parish, 
which  are  of  some  use  in  illustrating  its  condition  at  that  distant  time. 

Family  of  Barclay  of  Collairney.— The  most  ancient  and  ho- 
nourable name  connected  with  the  history  of  Dunbog  is  that 
of  the  family  of  Barclay,  who  seem  to  have  been  proprietors 


DUNIJOG. 


209 


of  Collairney  for  many  ages — it  is  presumed,  for  not  less  a  pe- 
riod than  500  years.    We  find  in  a  list  of  the  Lords  of  the  Re- 
galities within  Fife  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  that  Barclay  of 
Collairney  was  heritable  bailie  of  the  regality  of  Lindores,  while 
the  other  jurisdictions  were  in  the  hands  of  the  Marquis  of 
Tweeddale,  Lords  Balmerino  and  Anstruther,  and  Sir  Tho- 
mas Hope  of  Craighall.    The  possession  of  this  office  implied  the 
existence  of  great  personal  influence  or  high  rank,  while  it  con- 
ferred civil  authority  of  the  most  varied  and  extensive  description. 
This  once  powerful  family  is  now  extinct ;  their  name  is  scarcely 
known.    About  forty  years  ago,  the  estate  was  purchased  from  the 
last  of  the  Barclays,  by  the  late  Dr  Francis  Balfour  of  Fernie, 
whose  son  inherits  it  at  the  present  moment.    The  Castle  of  Col- 
lan-ney  is  now  in  ruins,  though  enough  remains  to  attest  its  origi- 
nal magnitude.    In  the  only  tower  that  has  survived  the  wreck  of 
time,  and  the  despoiling  hand  of  modern  improvement,  there  are 
two  small  rooms,  the  roofs  of  which  are  divided  into  numerous  com- 
partments, in  which  are  painted  in  vivid  colours  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  old  chivalry  of  Scotland.    The  mottos  as  well  as  the 
devices  of  a  few  are  yet  distinctly  legible.    But  it  cannot  be  ex- 
pected that  they  will  remain  long  uneffaced,  as  no  sufficient  care 
can  be  now  taken  to  preserve  them  from  perishing.    In  the  ap- 
pendix to  Sibbald's  history,  there  is  a  list  of  those  natives  of  Fife 
who  had  risen  to  distinction  in  hterature  or  science.    Among  others 
he  mentions  "  the  famous  William  Barclay,  (father  of  John,)  Pro- 
fessor of  the  Laws  at  Anglers,  who  derives  his  pedigree  from  Bar- 
clay of  Collairney  in  this  shire." 

Estate  of  Dunbog.—The  next  place  of  consequence  in  the 
parish  is  the  estate  and  mansion-house  of  Dunbog.    This  pro- 
perty formed  in  remote  times  a  part  of  the  extensive  barony  of 
Balinbriech,  which  belonged  to  the  family  of  Rothes.    It  subse- 
quently passed  into  the  hands  of  Lord  Home.    In  the  reign  of 
James  IV.,  Alexander  Lord  Home  sold  it  to  David  Bethune  of 
Criech,  in  whose  family  it  remained  till  1658,  when  it  was  sold  to 
.  James  Bethune  of  Balfour,  an  elder  branch  of  the  same  house. 
After  passing  through  several  other  hands,  it  was  purchased  in 
1694  by  Major  Henry  Balfour  of  Starr,  who  forfeited  in  the  Re- 
bellion of  1715.    It  was  restored,  however,  to  his  son,  and  finally 
disposed  of  in  1766,  to  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas,  to  whose  descend- 
■  ant  Lord  Dundas  it  now  belongs,  and  again  forms  a  part  of  the 
f  barony  of  Balinbriech.    The  vulgar  tradition  of  the  country  as- 

FIFE.  O 


210 


FIFKSHIRE. 


signs  the  building  of  the  house  to  Cardinal  Bethune  of  St  Andrews. 
There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  it  was  erected  by  a  Bethune 
of  Balfour,  of  which  house  the  celebrated  Cardinal  was  a  menri- 
ber.    But  as  a  decided  proof  that  neither  the  Cardinal  nor  his 
uncle  David  Bethune,  his  predecessor  in  the  archbishoprick,  and 
who  was  also  a  son  of  one  of  the  lairds  of  Balfour,  had  any  thing 
to  do  with  the  erection  of  the  mansion-house  of  Dunbog,  it  is  suf- 
ficient to  state,  that  the  Cardinal  was  put  to  death  in  1546,  nearly 
a  century  before  this  property  came  into  the  possession  of  his  fa- 
mily.   Long  before  the  time  of  which  we  now  speak,  the  monk> 
of  the  abbacy  of  Balmerino  had  a  small  building  or  preceptory  on 
the  site  of  the  present  house  of  Dunbog.    It  was  called  the  pre- 
ceptory of  Gadvan,  tenanted  in  general  by  two  or  three  of  the 
brotherhood,  whose  chief  occupation  we  presume  to  have  been  the 
culture  of  some  24  acres  of  ground  attached  to  their  cell.  A 
small  portion  of  this  land  is  comprehended  in  the  glebe— but  it  is 
principally  laid  out  in  the  garden  and  enclosures  of  Dunbog.  Sib- 
bald  mentions  also,  that  the  parish  church  of  Dunbog  was  given 
by  Alexander  Cumin  Earl  of  Buchan,  to  the  abbacy  of  Aber- 
brothock,  in  the  reign  of  King  Alexander  11.    There  was  a  con- 
siderable village  here,  in  which  a  weekly  market  was  held  withm 
the  memory  of  man.    But  it  has  totally  vanished  before  the  rapid 
extension  of  the  farming  system. 

The  parish  is  divided  among  three  proprietors,— Lord  Dundas, 
Balfour  of  Fernie,  and  Joseph  Francis  Murray  of  Ayton. 

Parochial  Rec/isters.—The  parochial  registers  extend  no  far- 
ther back  than  the  year  1666.  The  first  entry  is  dated  September 
23d  of  that  year.  From  that  period  they  have  been  kept  with  to- 
lerable accuracy.  The  records  are  not  very  Ml,  but  they  are 
sometimes  interesting,  as  illustrative  of  the  manners  of  a  former 
age,  of  the  comprehensive  charity  and  national  usefiilness  of  the 
Established  Church.  It  is  impossible  to  glance  over  them  without 
a  feeling  of  surprise,  at  the  frequency  and  largeness  of  parochial 
contributions  to  a  great  variety  of  benevolent  purposes.  Not  sa- 
tisfied with  the  comfortable  maintenance  of  their  own  poor,— with 
relieving  every  unfortunate  person  that  applied  to  them  for  a  little 
aid,— with  paying  their  proportion  of  the  expense  incurred  by  the 
education  and  support  of  the  presbytery  bursar,— we  find  the  ses- 
'  sion  sending  collections  to  the  most  distant  parts  of  Scotland,  to 
assist  in  repairing  the  damage  occasioned  by  fire,)  at  that  time  a 
very  frequent  disaster,)  in  alleviatingthe  misery  of  the  victims  of  such 
calamities,— in  building  or  improving  harbours,  bridges,  and  public 


DUNBOG. 


211 


works  of  a  like  nature, — and  in  ransoming  those  of  our  countrymen 
who  had  been  carried  into  a  terrible  slavery  by  the  Sallee  rovers  or 
Turkish  corsairs.   Towards  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century  we 
find  such  entries  as  the  following :  "  Given  out  to  ane  indigent  gentle- 
man 6  B.  Given  to  ane  dumb  man  4  B.  Given  to  ane  poorsojer  1  B. 
A  collection  for  ane  Pollonian  minister  4  B.    Given  to  a  ship- 
broken  man  4  B.   To  ane  indigent  gentlewoman  10  B.   To  a  de- 
posed minister's  wife  6  B.   To  a  distressed  minister  L.  1,  8s.  To 
ane  Episcopal  minister  called  James  Spark,  who  came  from  Ire- 
land, 12  B.    To  Mr  John  Constantino,  a  Neapolitan  and  Ca- 
puchin friar,  who  had  renounced  Poperie,  as  he  said,  12  B.   To  a 
suppliant  John  Lauder,  12  B,  having  lost  25,000  merks  in  ane  ship 
coming  from  France  to  Greenock."  Of  another  sort,  we  have  such 
entries  as  these :  "  1671.  Given  to  John  Rule  and  John  Cunninham, 
two  men  that  had  their  houses  burnt  at  Sligo,  12  sh.  1675,  De- 
cember 26,  a  voluntary  contribution  for  rebuilding  of  the  town 
of  Kelso,  which  was  burnt  down."   Some  years  after  a  collection 
is  made  to  assist  in  rebuilding  Newburgh,  which  had  been  burnt 
down.    The  instances  of  relief  granted  to  individual  sufferers  by 
fire  are  almost  without  number.    Of  a  class  still  more  interest- 
ing, we  may  venture  to  give  a  few  specimens.  "  In  1 678,  February 
10,  the  minister  did  intimate  a  voluntar  contribution  this  day 
eight  days  for  the  relief  of  some  Montrose  seamen  taken  by  the 
Turks."  Again,  October  3d,  1680,  "  There  was  two  acts  read  for 
a  voluntar  contribution,  the  one  in  favour  of  John  Atchison,  skipper 
in  Pittenweem,  his  mate,  Alexander  Black,  ten  mariners  and  two 

I  passengers,  taken  by  Turkish  men  of  war,  and  carried  up  to  Sallee 
and  there  ever  since  slaves.  The  other  in  favour  of  Robert  Angus, 

•  skipper  in  Burntisland,  who  was  taken  by  a  Turkish  man  of  wai- 
belonging  to  Algiers  and  was  kept  as  a  slave  since."— The  Bar- 

1  bary  corsairs  seem  to  have  been  the  terror  and  scourge  of  British 

:  sailors  in  the  seventeenth  century.  A  few  years  in  advance  we 
fall  on  the  traces  of  a  new  enemy.  «  1707,  July  20,  Given  to 
George  Hamilton,  a  man  taken  by  the  French  pirates,  and  retaken 
by  the  Dutch,  and  who  had  five  children,  lOsh."  Again  "  November 
30,  this  day  there  was  given  to  James  Forbes  and  his  wife  in 
their  distress,  they  being  robbed  by  the  French  pirates,  12  B" 
But  It  IS  curious  and  instructive  to  remark  how  effectually  the 

^  church  was  made  to  promote  the  general  interests  of  the  country. 

i  For  example,  in  1677,  September  16,  the  minister  "  read  an  order 

.  ot  the  privy-council,  for  a  contribution  this  day  eight  days,  for  help- 


212 


I'MFESHIHK. 


ing  the  harbour  of  Eyemouth."  Again,  hi  1682,  "  A  voluntary  con- 
tribution is  ordered  for  building  a  stone  bridge  over  the  water  of 
Ness,  at  Inverness."  And  again  in  the  same  year,  we  find  three 
acts  of  the  privy-council  quoted,  ordering  collections  in  favour  of 
"  the  harbour  at  Burntisland,  to  repair  it ;  in  favour  of  Dumbarton, 
to  erect  a  bridge  across  the  water  of  Leven ;  and  in  favour  of  my 

Lord  Pitsligo,  for  repairing  the  harbour  at  ."    There  are 

many  more  of  the  same  kind ;  but  the  above  will  amply  suffice  to 
shew  the  many  practical  benefits  the  church  has  been  the  instru- 
ment of  conferring  on  almost  every  town  and  sea-port  of  our  na- 
tive land.    It  was  the  practice  in  the  seventeenth  century  for  par- 
ties intending  to  be  married,  to  enter  into  a  pubhc  contract,  and 
to  deposit  with  the  kirk-session  a  sum  of  money  in  pledge  of 
their  sincerity  and  good  behavour.    The  form  observed  is  record- 
ed with  amusing  simphcity.  As,  for  instance,  "  Contracted  George 
Brewhouse  and  Helen  Kinloch,  and  consigned  their  pledges  ac- 
cording to  order,  that  they  should  marry  within  the  space  of  forty 
days,  Ind  carry  themselves  civillee  till  their  marriage."     It  did 
happen  occasionally  that  the  pledges  were  forfeited  for  lack  of 
the  requisite  civility,  and  sometimes  too  for  other  reasons,  as,  for 
instance,  on  the  28th  of  February  1675,  there  is  given  to  the 
bursar  "  be  Andro  Law,  4  lbs.  being  his  daughter's  pledge,  which 
was  given  because  of  her  fail  in  not  taking  of  William  Buist  in  mar- 
riage, after  being  thrice  proclaimed."     The  oldest  register  is 
full  of  proclamations,  read  by  order  of  the  King  and  Council, 
which  forcibly  mark  the  unquiet  aspect  of  the  times,  and  the  grow- 
ing jealousy  of  the  government,  as  the  eventfiil  era  of  the  Revolu- 
tion approached.    We  shall  conclude  this  branch  of  our  account, 
by  extracting  an  entry  of  a  peculiar  interest:  "  1678,  May  18,  a 
proclamation  was  read  from  the  pulpit  by  the  minister,  ordaining 
the  whole  heritors  within  the  parish  to  cause  their  tenants,  cottars, 
servants,  and  all  others  on  their  grounds  to  compear  at  Cupar  on 
Friday  the  2.3d  of  May  instant,  to  clear  and  vindicate  themselves 
from  the  late  murder  of  my  Lord  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews." 

III. — Population. 
The  population  of  this  parish  has  gradually  but  regularly  de- 
clined since  the  end  of  the  last  century.  At  that  time  the  popu- 
lation was  nearly  400.  By  the  census  of  1831,  it  amounted  to  no 
more  than  195,  and  this  year  it  has  been  reduced  to  170  of  all 
ages  which  we  sincerely  hope  will  prove  its  minimum.  This  rapid 
decrease  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  extinction  of  the  village;  and 


DUNBOG.  213 

the  absorption  of  the  small  farms.  There  is  now  only  one  farm 
where  formerly  there  were  three  or  four.  That  the  depopulating 
system  has  been  carried  much  too  far  is  now  painfully  evident 
to  every  one  connected  with  agriculture.  The  farmers  not  only 
experience  a  difficulty  in  procuring  labourers  to  work  the  green 
crop,  but  they  find  it  impossible  to  get  them  at  any  price,  and  must 
have  recourse  to  sonae  unusual  means  of  obtaining  an  adequate  sup- 
ply.. The  average  number  of  births  since  my  induction  does  not 
exceed  8  per  annum  ;  of  marriages  not  more  than  4  ;  of  deaths  about 
the  same  number. 

Number  of  persous  under  15  years  of  age,  .  67 

between  15  and  30,  '  .  .  .25 

30  and  50,  .          .  55 

50  and  70,  ,  .12 

upwards  of  70,          .  .11 

170 

There  are  no  heritors  or  families  of  independent  fortune  resident 
in  the  parish.    There  are  42  families  altogether. 

There  are  42  inhabited  houses,  besides  4  bothies. 

Habits  and  Character  of  the  People. — The  farmers  are  an  en- 
lightened, active,  and  enterprising  body  of  men,  who  embrace  every 
opportunity  of  extending  their  knowledge  of  the  important  subjects 
connected  with  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  eagerly  adopt  every 
suggestion  that  may  conduce  to  the  improvement  of  the  rapidly  ad- 
vancing science  of  husbandry.  Perhaps  no  class  of  men  is  more  free 
from  prejudices, —more  unaffectedly  kind,— more  sound  and  steady 
in  their  principles,— and  full  of  solid  and  useful  information,  than 
that  of  the  farmer's  of  Fifeshire.  Besides  these,  the  only  other  class 
of  people  belonging  to  this  parish  is  that  of  their  dependents  or 
ploughmen.  Speaking  generally,  we  would  say  of  the  married 
ploughmen,  that  they  are  a  quiet,  sober,  and  industrious  race. 
Their  lot  is  one  of  incessant  toil,  alleviated  by  few  advantages. 
Their  ordinary  food  consists  of  oatmeal  and  sweet  milk,  with  po- 
I  tatoes  and  occasionally  pork.    While  young  they  enjoy  uninter- 

■  rupted  health,  and  exhibit  in  their  form  all  the  appearances  of  ro- 
!  bust  and  smewy  vigour.  But  long  before  old  age  has  arrived, 
1  most  of  them,  from  perpetual  exposure  to  the  weather,  are 

crippled  with  violent  rheumatism.    But  no  class  of  men,  we  are 

■  persuaded,  labours  under  more  blighting  evils  than  does  that  of  our 
ploughmen.  Then-  education,  both  religious  and  intellectual,  is 
exceedmgly  neglected  from  their  earliest  youth.    There  may  be 


214 


riFESUlRK. 


found  a  few  bright  exceptions  to  the  prevailing  character  of  the 
body ;  but  it  is  a  melancholy  truth  that  this  interesting  race  of  our 
people  has  been  allowed  to  sink  into  a  state  of  great  ignorance  and 
debasement.    One  chief  cause  of  this  calamity,  we  do  not  hesitate 
to  say,  is  the  practice  universal  in  Fife,  of  making  the  young  un- 
married men  live  together  in  bothies.  No  sooner  are  boys  capable 
of  attending  cattle  in  the  fields,  than  they  are  sent  from  their  fa- 
ther's house, — consigned  to  these  wretched  bothies, — and  left  in 
the  midst  of  dangers  to  their  own  will.    The  results  are  grievous, 
though  not  more  so  than  might  be  anticipated.    In  these  hovels 
the  wicked  very  speedily  corrupt  the  good.    The  old  ensnare 
the  young ;  and  the  hardened  profligate  leaves  no  effort  untried 
to  seduce  the  scrupulous  and  timid  to  imitate  his  reckless  exam- 
ple.   Until  this  horrid  system  be  abolished,  it  will  be  in  vain 
to  expect  any  happy  alteration  in  the  character  and  condition  of 
our  ploughmen.    Another  grand  cause  of  this  flagrant  evil  is  to  be 
found  in  the  fluctuating  and  wandering  lives  of  the  ploughmen 
themselves.    The  married  men  frequently,  the  unmarried  always, 
jilt  at  the  end  of  one  year's  service.    They  thus  acquire  vagrant 
habits  and  uncontrollable  minds.    They  are  never  long  enough  in 
one  place  to  form  useful  connections, — to  feel  themselves  influen- 
ced and  benefited  by  the  exertions  of  the  minister, — or  to  receive 
any  sufficient  advantage  to  their  children  from  the  care  and  super- 
intendence of  a  parochial  teacher.    They  thus  virtually  cut  them- 
selves off  from  all  the  blessings  of  Christianity  and  civilization,  and 
in  a  land  of  light  are  literally  roaming  about  in  darkness.  That  an 
evil  so  virulent  and  so  widely  diffused  as  this  can  be  soon  or  easily  re- 
medied, is  not  to  be  believed.    But  were  the  masters  and  cler- 
gy to  unite  in  a  zealous  endeavour  to  reclaim  to  better  habits  the 
labouring  class  of  our  people,  they  would,  we  have  no  doubt,  da 
much  good  even  to  the  present  generation ;  and,  at  all  events,  they 
would  commence  a  work  af  improvement,  which  another  and  a 
more  fortunate  age  would  carry  on  and  complete^ 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — There  are  in  the  parish  about  1820  acres  impe- 
rial of  arable  land :  about  270  of  hill  pasture  or  waste  ground ; 
and  about  30  under  wood.  The  average  rent  of  the  arable  land 
is  about  L.  2  per  acre ;  but  this  varies  in  the  majority  of  cases 
with  the  price  of  grain,  as  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  rental 
is  determined  by  the  fiars  of  the  county.  The  wages  of  unmar- 
ried ploughmen  are  L.  11  per  annum  and  their  board.  Married  men 


DUNBOG. 


215 


receive  in  money  L.  9,  a  house,  a  bit  of  garden-ground,  milk  and 
meal,  9  bolls  of  potatoes,  and  their  coals  driven  from  the  pit. 

Sheep  and  Cattle. — There  is  no  particular  species  of  sheep  or 
cattle  reared  in  the  parish.  The  tenants  buy  in  sheep,  in  the 
autumn,  to  put  on  the  stubbles,  and  to  feed  off  on  turnip  during  the 
winter  and  following  spring.  The  sheep  are  generally  Cheviots, 
with  a  sprinkling  of  black-faced.  This  practice  is  universal,  and 
is  now  carried  to  a  great  extent.  By  the  use  of  bone-dust,  turnips 
can  now  be  raised,  where  previously  cultivation  was  either  very  dif- 
ficult or  altogether  impossible.  But  where  turnips  can  be  thus 
raised,  the  eating  them  off  with  sheep  thoroughly  enriches  the 
soil,  and  secures  invariably  an  abundant  after-crop.  The  cattle 
are  very  much  mixed ;  so  much,  indeed,  that  it  would  be  no  easy 
matter  to  say  what  breed  predominates.  For  many  years,  the  old 
Falkland  breed  of  cattle  fell  into  general  disrepute.  Short-horns 
were  introduced ;  and  in  several  instances,  were  and  are  still  rais  - 
ed in  high  perfection.  The  opinion  was,  that  they  fattened  more 
easily  than  the  native  cattle,  and  at  an  earlier  age,  and  therefore 
were  a  profitable  stock  to  the  farmer.  This  opinion,  however,  is 
beginning  to  be  questioned.  It  is  now  thought  by  many  that  the 
old  Fife  breed  have  as  many  good  qualities  as  the  short-horns,  and 
are  a  much  less  hazardous  stock.  That  they  feed  to  as  great  a 
weight  as  the  short-horns  after  they  are  five  years  old  is  well 
known ;  and  eminent  judges  say,  that,  by  proper  attention  and  care, 
they  may  be  brought  to  fatten  at  as  early  an  age.  There  is,  how- 
ever, great  difficulty  experienced  in  obtaining  pure  blood. 

The  state  of  husbandry  is  very  good,  as  good  as  any  where  in 
Scotland.  A  six-shift  rotation  is  pursued  in  this  neighbourhood, 
viz.  summer  fallow  or  potatoes,  wheat,  green  crop,  barley,  grass,  and 
then  oats.  The  great  defect  is  the  want  of  fences.  The  fields  are 
all  open  and  unenclosed.  This  is  a  serious  hinderance  in  the  way 
of  improvement.  The  land  requires  rest,  for  it  has  been  over- 
cropped ;  the  farmer  is  most  anxious  to  reap  the  advantages  pro- 
mised by  sheep  husbandry ;  but  neither  of  these  objects  can  be  at- 
tained until  the  land  is  properly  enclosed. 

The  leases  universally  extend  to  a  period  of  nineteen  years ;  and 
under  the  system  of  farming  which  has  prevailed  up  to  the  present 
time,  a  term  of  such  duration  was  equally  convenient  for  the  land- 
lord and  tenant.  But  now  that  a  great  and  decided  improvement 
in  the  mode  of  farming  has  taken  place,  and  is  increasing  rapidly 
in  all  the  purely  agricultural  districts,  it  will  be  expedient  and 


216 


FIFESHIKE. 


equitable  to  give  a  considerable  extension  to  the  period  of  a  lease. 
It  is  on  every  account  desirable  that  the  tenant  should  enjoy  at 
least  three,  or  perhaps  four,  returns  of  his  rotation.  But  if  by  al- 
lowing the  fields  to  lie  in  grass  for  two  or  three  years,  he  extend  his 
rotation  from  five  or  six,  to  seven  or  eight  years,  he  cannot  re- 
ceive this  advantage  unless  his  lease  be  for  twenty-four  years,  instead 
of  nineteen.  No  sound  objection,  as  far  as  we  can  judge,  can  be 
offered  to  this  proposed  alteration  on  the  part  of  landlords,— be- 
cause rents  being  now  very  generally  paid  according  to  the  fiars, 
the  landlords  will  always  share  in  any  rise  that  takes  place  in 
the  value  of  farm  produce,  and  because  the  land,  under  the  new 
system  of  resting  for  three  years  out  of  eight,  would  always  be  kept 
in  the  highest  order. 

The  average  amount  of  raw  produce. 

,ie  gross  amount  of  all  descriptions  of  grain  rai 
may  be  estimated  at  8:«6  bolls,  which  will  average 


The  gross  amount  of  aU  descriptions  of  grain  raised  annually  in  the  parish 

may  be  estimated  at  Qm  bolls,  which  will  average  -  2765 

Potatoes  and  turnips  grown  in  the  fields,  at  -  - 


Grass  at 


Total,  L.  11,707 

The  gross  rental  of  the  parish  will  average  nearly  L.  3000. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Newburgh  is  the  nearest  market  and  post-town,  being  distant 

about  four  miles. 

Ecclesiastical  Stafe— The  church  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  and  at  a  convenient  distance  from  the  remotest  houses.  It  was 
built  in  1 803,  and  is  in  excellent  repair.  It  is  seated  for  200,  allowing 
eighteen  inches  to  a  seat.  The  sittings  are  all  free.  The  manse  was 
built  in  1792.  A  considerable  addition  was  made  to  it  fourteen  years 
ago.  It  is  both  comfortable  and  commodious.  The  glebe  consists  of 
about  5  acres  imperial  of  good  land.  The  stipend  is  14  chal- 
ders  of  barley,  bear,  meal,  and  oats  ;  but  nearly  L.  70  of  it  is  paid 
in  money.  There  is  not  a  dissenting  family  in  the  parish.  The. 
farm-servants,  with  very  few  exceptions,  all  belong  to  the  Estabhsh- 
ed  church.  They  change  every  year,  yet  there  is  never  above  one 
or  two  individuals  among  them  that  are  members  of  any  other  de- 
nomination, which  may  be  received  as  a  decided  proof  that  the 
whole  body  of  the  agricultural  population  are  still  attached  to  the 
Establishment. 

The  average  number  of  communicants  is  135,  which  number 
comprehends  a  good  many  from  the  adjoining  parishes  of  Flisk  and 
Abdie,  who  always  attend  on  ordinances  in  the  church  of  Dunbog. 
The  annual  amount  of  collections  for  the  poor  do  not  exceed 


LEUCHARS. 


217 


L.  12.  We  have  contributed  liberally  to  the  schemes  of  the  Gene- 
ral Assembly  for  education  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and  for 
the  propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  India. 

Education. — There  is  only  one  school  in  the  parish.  The  ordi- 
nary branches  of  instruction  are  taught.  The  salary  is  the  maximum. 
The  fees  are  small,  and  do  not  produce  above  L.  15  per  annum. 
There  is  no  person  in  the  parish  unable  to  read  and  write,  but  very 
many  who  read  and  write  very  ill. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  poor  roll  is  at  present  a  heavy 
one.  We  have  many  aged  persons,  and  two  families  of  orphan 
children.  There  are  13  in  the  receipt  of  a  weekly  aliment. 
We  very  seldom  give  the  allowance  in  money,  but  authorize  the 
tenant  under  whom  the  paupers  reside,  to  give  as  much  meal  and 
potatoes  as  will  keep  them  with  comfort.  Our  annual  outlay  is 
nearly  L.  30.  Of  this  sum  we  have  about  L.  12  from  church  col- 
lections,— the  rest  is  drawn  from  money  belonging  to  the  poor. 

Fuel. — The  only  fuel  used  in  this  neighbourhood  is  coal,  which  is 
driven  from  the  mouth  of  the  pit.  The  nearest  mines  are  those 
of  Coul  and  Balbirnie,  about  nine  miles  distant.  The  fuel  from 
both  is  good,  and  the  price  is  moderate. 

Jidy  1836. 


PARISH  OF  LEUCHARS. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  DAVID  WATSON,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History.  . 

Name. — The  ancient  name  of  the  parish  seems  to  have  been 
Lough-yards,  which  is  now  changed  to  Leuchars.  The  low  and 
level  grounds,  extending  for  miles  to  the  east  and  west  of  the  vil- 
lage, were  under  water  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  might 
well  be  considered  a  loch  before  the  lands  were  drained.  The 
elevated  ground  in  the  immediate  vicinity  might  be  the  yards  at- 
tached to  the  village.  According  to  some,  Leuchars  is  a  Celtic  word^ 
and  signifies  a  rushy  or  marshy  flat.  Sibbald  says,  the  name  is 
"  a  Locro,  Pictorum  magnate  ejusdem  possessore." 

Extent,  Boundaries. —  This  parish,  from  north-east  to  south-west, 


218 


FIFESHIUE. 


extends  9  miles ;  its  greatest  breadth  from  north-west  to  south-east 
is  5  miles.  It  is  bounded  by  the  bay  of  St  Andrews,  on  the  east ; 
the  river  Eden,  on  the  south ;  by  the  parishes  of  Dairsie  and  Logie, 
on  the  west;  by  Forgan  and  Ferry-Port-on-Craig,  on  the  north ;  and 
is  of  a  very  irregular  figure. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  general  aspect  of  the  parish 
is  that  of  an  extensive  flat  rather  bare  of  wood,  for  many  square 
miles, — not  exceeding  15  feet  in  elevation  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  As  it  verges  westward,  however,  the  ground  rises  gradually, 
till  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  range  of  hills  which  separates  it  from 
Logie,  when  its  elevation  may  be  about  230  or  300  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  These  hills  are  a  branch  of  the  terminating  range 
of  the  Ochils,  and  are  called  Lucklaw,  Airdit,  and  Craigfoodie.  Of 
these,  the  summit  of  Airdit  only  is  in  this  parish ;  but  the  whole 
range,  of  four  miles  extent,  forms  a  beautiful  boundary  and  a  shelter 
to  the  level  ground  on  the  south-east.  The  land  is  now  well  drain- 
ed both  by  deep  and  surface  draining;  and  the  lighter  land,  at  the 
east  and  north  sides  of  the  parish,  is  well  enclosed  for  sheep  hus- 
bandry, which  has  prevailed  of  late  to  a  considerable  extent,  and 
is  found  a  great  improvement  for  such  soils. 

The  west  division  of  the  parish  contains  six  farms.  These  are 
on  elevated  ground,  inclining  with  a  gentle  slope,  and  are  composed 
of  soils  consisting  of  clay,  soft  loam,  and  gravel.  The  soil  in  which 
gravel  abounds,  notwithstanding  the  thorough  draining  to  which  it 
has  been  subjected,  retains  much  of  its  former  spongy  and  wet  cha- 
racter. 

The  sea  shore  is  flat  and  sandy.  The  tide  retires  from  the  shore 
about  half  a-mile  on  ebbing.  There  is  no  alluvial  soil  deposited 
by  the  Eden  ;  but  the  sand  banks  are  always  on  the  increase.  The 
bar  of  sand  at  its  mouth  is  dangerous  for  shipping  ;  and,  the  noise 
with  which  the  motion  of  the  tide  over  it,  is  frequently  accompanied, 
indicates  a  coming  or  retiring  storm. 

Hydrographxj.—T\ie  river  Eden,  which  forms  the  southern  boun- 
dary for  four  or  five  miles,  is  navigable  as  far  as  the  Guard  bridge. 
Hereisasmallharbour,'which,  from  its  commodious  situation,  serves 
as  the  emporium  of  this  part  of  the  country.  At  spring-tides,  ves- 
sels of  considerable  burden  can  make  their  way  to  it  without  diffi- 
culty. At  the  Guard  bridge,  a  few  salmon  trouts  are  caught  in  au- 
tumn. Near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  are  mussel  beds  of  considerable 
v<ilue.  These  are  let  by  the  proprietors  for  a  period  of  four  or  five 
years,  to  a  tenant  who  pays  every  attention  to  their  cultivation  and 


LEUCHARS. 


219 


propagation.  These  mussel  beds  furnish  bait  to  many  fishers  along 
the  east  coast  of  Scotland. 

The  other  streams  are  the  Moultry,  which  traverses  the  parish  in 
a  direction  from  north  to  south,  discharging  itself  into  the  Eden, 
and  the  Monzie  burn,  flowing  from  the  west,  and  joining  the  Moul- 
try.  On  both  of  these  streams  are  meal  and  barley  mills. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — There  is  nothing  remarkable  as  to 
the  geology  of  the  parish.  The  whole  of  the  extensive  flat  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Tents  moor  seems,  from  the  appearance  of  its 
surface,  to  have  been  abandoned  by  the  German  Ocean  at  no  very 
remote  period.  On  advancing  westward  from  the  Tents  moor  to 
the  Moultry,  the  character  of  the  soil  improves,  till  we  find  exten- 
sive beds  of  strong  blue  clay.  In  various  parts  of  the  Tents  moor, 
frequent  bores  have  been  sunk  to  a  considerable  depth  ;  but  by 
these  nothing  has  been  discovered  but  the  same  indurated  sand  by 
which  this  vast  plain  is  so  uniformly  characterized.  It  is  supposed 
that,  a  good  way  beneath  the  surface,  a  subordinate  range  of  the 
prevaiUng  rock  of  the  high  ground  district  to  the  north-west,  which 
is  whinstone,  runs  across  the  Tents  moor  in  an  eastern  direction. 
This  whinstone  affords  numerous  excellent  quarries,  and  is  much 
esteemed  both  for  the  purposes  of  building  and  road-metalling. 

Lucklaw  hill  is  composed  of  rocks  of  the  trap  formation.  Augite 
greenstone,  traversed  by  ill-defined  veins  of  coarse  calcareous  spar, 
forms  one  prominent  member  in  its  composition,  and  felspar  por- 
phyry another.  This  felspar  porphyry  is  well  exhibited  by  a  cut 
which  was  made  by  the  proprietor,  on  the  face  of  the  hill,  many  years 
ago,  with  a  view  to  quarry  it.  Quarrying  operations  are  no  longer 
conducted,  though  this  rock,  from  its  extreme  solidity  and  durabi- 
lity, cannot  fail  to  be  esteemed  of  considerable  importance  in  an 
economical  point  of  view. 

Within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  Eden,  on  the  farm  of  Brock- 
lay,  is  a  stratum  of  new  red  sandstone,  which,  from  the  coarseness 
of  its  texture,  and  the  imperfect  consolidation  of  its  component 
parts,  is  little  used  as  a  building  material.  It  is  of  a  brick  colour, 
and  bears  the  marks  of  a  rapid  deposition  from  water,  with  the  ma- 
terials of  each  successive  deposit  distinctly  traceable.  Vegetable 
impressions  have  been  discovered,  associated  with  this  rock.  The 
specimens  which  have  been  procured,  we  believe,  are  of  the  fern  spe  - 
cies ;  but  those  that  have  been  obtained  are  few. 

Deer's  horns  have  been  dug  up  in  the  Tents  moor.  Fossil  re- 
mains of  oaks  of  a  large  species  have  been  found  in  the  alluvial 


220 


FIFESIirRE 


lands  situated  round  the  village.    These  were  found  to  be  in  a  very 
entire  state,  and  useful  for  domestic  purposes. 

Every  variety  of  soil,  from  the  richest  loam  and  clay,  to  the 
poorest  sand  or  moorish  clay,  is  found  in  this  parish  ;  but  no  marl, 
lime,  or  coal.  This  parish  seems  to  have  been  cultivated  from  the 
earliest  times.  Its  productiveness  is  best  evidenced  by  its  affording 
teinds  to  the  ministers  of  other  parishes,  even  to  the  parish  of  Dull, 
in  Perthshire. 

JYood. — In  the  north-east  part  of  the  parish,  where  the  soil  is  ex- 
tremely light  and  sandy,  the  Scotch  pines  grow  to  a  considerable 
size.  This  parish  does  not  abound  much  in  hard  wood ;  that  which 
seems  to  thrive  best,  is  the  ash.  Some  fine  old  trees  are  found 
at  Earlshall,  Pitlethie,  PitcuUo,  and  Airdit. 

II. — Civil  History. 
The  Earls  of  Southesk  and  the  Bruces  of  Earlshall  were  the 
oldest  proprietors  of  the  greater  part  of  the  parish ;  but  their  his- 
tory contains  nothing  so  important  as  to  merit  a  place  in  this  work. 
The  famous  Alexander  Henderson,  who  was  minister  of  this  pa- 
rish for  more  than  twenty  years,  is  so  well  known  to  the  public, 
and  his  life  and  character  so  fully  delineated  in  the  late  work  of  Dr 
Alton,  that  any  observations  of  ours  upon  the  history  of  that  re- 
markable individual,  would  be  superfluous. 

,  Land-oioners. — The  present  land-owners  are,  1.  Colonel  Lindsay, 
who  has  just  succeeded  to  his  much  lamented  father,  the  Honour- 
able Robert  Lindsay,  who  purchased  the  estate  of  Leuchars  from 
Sir  David  Carnegie;  2.  Lieutenant- Colonel  Long,  who  purchased 
Earlshall  from  the  late  Sir  Robert  Bruce  Henderson ;  3.  A.  B. 
Stewart,  the  late  purchaser  of  Airdit;  4.  Cheape  of  Pusk  and 
Welfield;  5.  The  Bank  of  Scotland ;  6.  George  Macgill  of  Kem- 
back,  the  proprietor  of  Lucklaw;  7.  Russell  of  Hayston  and 
Brocklay;  8.  William  Lawson  of  Pitlethie;  9.  Mr  Pitcairn  of 
PitcuUo ;  10.  Peter  Walker  of  Muirhead.  Four  of  the  proprietors 
only  are  resident,  and  farm  their  own  estates. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  earliest  register  extant  of  births  and 
the  session  records  commence  with  the  year  1665.  In  the  register 
of  births,  there  is  a  hiatus  of  seven  years,  extending  from  1699- 
1705.  The  session  minutes  consist  of  three  volumes,  the  first 
reaching  from  1666-1737;  the  second  from  1737  to  1762;  the 
third  from  1762  to  the  present  year.  No  register  of  deaths  pre- 
vious to  1766. 

Antiquities. — The  chief  object  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the 


LEUCHARS. 


221 


antiquary  is  the  church,  a  view  of  the  elevation  of  the  ancient  part 
of  which,  together  with  a  description  of  its  architecture,  we  are  en- 
abled to  embody  in  these  pages,  through  the  kindness  of  John 
M'Kinlay,  Esq.  Bo-ness,  who  is  well  versed  in  the  antiquities  of  this 
country.  This  church  appears  to  have  been  built  at  three  several 
,  periods.  The  eastern  division  forming  the  chancel  consisted  of  a 
square  building,  having  a  semicircular  apsis  towards  the  east,  in  which 
the  altar  was  placed,  and  is  built  in  the  style  usually  called  Saxon, 
of  which  it  is  one  of  the  most  entire  and  interesting  specimens  to 
be  found  in  Scotland.  The  second  division  was  tlie  original  nave 
of  the  church,  having  an  aisle  projecting  to  the  north.  This  portion 
of  the  building  also  is  in  the  Saxon  style,  but  later  than  the  for- 
mer; and  the  third  division  is  comparatively  modern,  being  pro- 
bably not  more  ancient  than  the  time  of  the  Reformation.  The 
two  last  divisions  have  been  greatly  altered  and  modernized,  and  are 
fitted  up  as  the  parish  church,  and,  although  neat  and  comfortable 
enough,  do  not  merit  any  particular  description. 

The  eastern  portion  consists  of  two  parts.  The  apsis  or  semicir- 
cular recess  to  the  east,  for  the  reception  of  the  altar,  is  narrower, 
and  not  quite  so  high  as  the  body  of  the  chancel.  Externally,  it  is 
of  two  stages  or  storeys,  the  lower  one  consists  of  a  range  of  ten 
semicircular  arches,  with  zig-zag  or  chevron  mouldings,  resting  on 
plain  double  pillars.  Above  those  arches,  there  is  a  band  or  fillet,  and 
resting  upon  this,  is  a  range  of  nine  smaller  arches,  supported  by 
short  pillars,  each  pair  of  which  are  separated  by  a  small  intervene 
ing  pier.  Each  of  the  arches  connecting  the  tops  of  those  pillars 
consists  of  two  rows  of  stones,  the  lower  one  ornamented  with  the 
zig-zag  moulding,  and  the  upper  one  with  the  billet  moulding. 
The  pillars  of  this  upper  arcade  are  placed  over  the  centre  of  each 
of  the  lower  arches.  There  are  three  windows  in  the  upper  tier, 
placed  in  the  intervals  between  the  pillars ;  they  are  narrow  and 
round  topped,  and  widen  internally.  At  some  distance  above  the 
upper  tier  of  arches,  there  is  a  range  of  corbels  carved  into  gro- 
tesque heads,  supporting  the  upper  part  of  the  wall,  which  projects 
a  little.  The  roof  appears,  from  marks  on  the  gable  of  the  other 
portion  of  the  chancel,  to  have  been  a  semicone  of  a  pretty  high 
pitch,— but  this  has  been  removed,  together  with  two  courses  of 
stone  off  the  walls,  to  make  room  for  a  belfry  erected  about  half  a 
century  ago,  in  the  degenerate  style  then  in  vogue;  and  in  order  to 
support  this  mass  of  incongruity,  a  rude  arch  has  been  thrown  across 
within,  which  partially  blocks  up  two  of  the  windows,  and  spoils  the 


222 


FIFESHIRE. 


appearance  of  the  groined  ceiling.    In  the  inside,  the  windows  are 
decorated  with  pillars  similar  to  the  outside.    The  roof  consists  of 
a  simple  cross  rib  of  three  reeds,  with  two  half  arches  meeting  it  in 
the  centre,  and  groined  between.    Those  arches  spring  from  short 
pillars  supported  on  projecting  corbels,  representing  heads  of  ani- 
mals.   A  lofty  arch  opened  from  the  apsis  into  the  body  of  the 
chancel,  and  a  similar  one  opened  from  thence  into  the  nave.  The 
sides  of  those  arches  are  each  formed  of  three  slender  pillars,  the 
middle  one  projecting  beyond  the  others.   The  arches  connecting 
them  above  are  ornamented  with  the  zig-zag  and  fillet  mouldings. 
This  portion  of  the  building  has  two  windows  to  the  south,  and  one 
to  the  north.  They  are  ornamented  on  the  inside  with  pillars,  and 
rich  mouldings  from  the  soffits  of  the  arches.    The  outside  of  this 
part  of  the  building,  like  the  apsis,  consists  of  two  tiers  of  arches, 
the  lower  rests  upon  four  double  and  two  single  pillars  on  each 
front,  and  the  tops  of  each  alternate  pillar  connected  by  intersect- 
ing semicircular  arches,  so  that  the  spaces  between  each  two  pil- 
lars have  the  form  of  Gothic  arches.    Over  these  arches,  there  is 
a  band  or  fillet,  on  which  is  placed  an  upper  range  of  pillars  and 
arches  similar  to  those  on  the  apsis,  but  the  pillars  stand  directly 
over  those  of  the  lower  tier.    Above  this  tier  of  arches,  there  is  a 
range  of  corbels  representing  faces,  supporting  the  upper  part  of 
the  wall.    The  roof  is  high  in  the  pitch,  and  the  timbers  are  open 
to  the  view  inside,  the  body  of  the  chancel  not  having  been  arch- 
ed.   Ancient  gravestones  form  the  pavement,  and  this  portion  of 
the  building  is  now  little  else  than  a  tomb.    From  the  style  of  ar- 
chitecture, it  is  probable  that  this  portion  of  the  church  was  built 
about  the  year  1100,  when  the  Saxon  style  prevailed.   At  or  about 
the  period  of  the  Reformation,  the  two  windows  on  the  south  side 
of  the  body  of  the  chancel  were  built  up,  and  two  square  windows 
with  a  single  stone  muUion  in  each  were  substituted  ;  and  one  of  the 
same  in  the  apsis ;  and  although  they  are  somewhat  interesting,  as 
showing  the  degraded  style  which  succeeded  the  Gothic,  it  were 
desirable  to  have  them  removed,  and  the  original  appearance  re- 
stored. 

The  original  nave  is  probably  not  much  later  in  date  than  the  chan- 
cel ;  but  as  it  only  consists  of  plain  dead  walls  with  a  single  hatched 
fillet,  there  is  not  much  from  which  its  date  can  be  ascertained. 
From  the  unbroken  appearance  of  the  side  walls,  there  does  not  ap- 
pear to  have  been  any  windows.  It  was  probably  lighted  by  windows 
in  the  west  gable,  which  is  now  removed.    A  wide  and  lofty  arch 


LEUCHARS. 


223 


opens  into  the  aisle,  the  walls  of  which  were  formerly  only  about  half 
their  present  height,  and  a  similar  arch  opens  into  the  more  modern 
part  of  the  nave,  forming  together  what  is  now  used  as  the  parish 
church. 

Where  the  parish  school  now  stands,  there  once  was  a  chapel 
called  St  Bennet's,  of  which  Sir  Thomas  Wemyss  was  chaplain 
at  the  Reformation.  No  vestige  of  it  remains ;  but  many  human 
bones  are  found  near  the  spot  inclosed  in  stone  coffins ;  which, 
being  by  no  means  entire,  point  to  a  remote  date.  To  the  north 
of  the  village,  there  is  a  curious  circular  elevation  where  stood  the 
castle  of  Leuchars.  It  has  all  the  appearance  of  having  been  artifi- 
cially formed,  with  a  moat  around  it,  and  a  deep  well  in  the  centre. 
It  occupies  about  an  acre  of  ground.* 

There  are  three  ruins  of  old  mansions  of  a  castellated  form,  kept 
in  partial  repair, — these  are  Earlshall,  Pitcullo,  and  Airdit.  Earls- 
hall  is  an  interesting  object.  Its  large,  venerable  hall,  whose  roof 
and  walls  are  crowded  with  crests,  inscriptions,  &c.  is  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  the  antiquary,  f 

The  most  interesting  relic  of  antiquity  that  has  been  found  in  this 
parish  is  an  earthen  jar,  which  was  discovered  on  Craigiehill,  in  the 
year  1808.  This  jar  was  found  to  contain  nearly  a  hundred  silver 
coins  in  perfect  preservation.  Unfortunately  the  jar  itself  was  shiv- 
ered to  pieces  by  the  plough,  by  which  it  was  thrown  up.  But 
most  of  the  coins  were  secured  by  the  proprietor,  the  late  Hon. 
Robert  Lindsay  of  Balcarres,  where  they  remain.  The  coins  are 
stamped  with  the  heads  of  Roman  emperors,  such  as  Severus,  An- 
toninus, Faustina,  &c. 

III. — Population. 
There  has  been  very  little  variation  in  the  number  of  inhabit- 
ants in  this  parish  from  the  earliest  times  till  now,  as  is  the  case 
in  most  agricultural  districts.  The  only  change  upon  the  popu- 
lation is  that  of  locality.  The  Tents  moor,  which  of  old  used  to 
b&  studded  with  turf  built  cottages,  and  gardens  and  crofts  attached 
to  them,  is  now,  in  a  great  measure,  depopulated,  from  the  extensive 
farms  which  have  been  formed  upon  it.  Many  of  the  former  inha- 
bitants of  the  moors  shifted  their  quarters  to  the  village,  and  other 
parts  of  the  parish. 

^  anciently  a  place  of  strength,  and  one  of  the  strongholds  of  the 

i^arls  ot  bite  ;  dismantled,  however,  by  the  English  in  the  fourteenth  century. 
iJa     %  inscribed  in  the  hall  show  the  building  to  have  been  founded  in 

1546,  and  finished  m  1617. 


224 


FIFESHIRE. 


No.  of  inhabitants  residing  in  the  village  of  I.euchars  in  1 831 ,  •       .  ,  ^Ji 

in  Balmullo,  another  village  belonging  to  this  parish,  Z50 
The  yearly  average  of  births  for  seven  years  ending  with  1 831  is,  .  47 

of  deaths  for  1831  is,  .  •  '  '  ff 


16 


of  marriages,             "      ,      *           %  '           '  (lOo 

In  1831,  the  average  number  of  persons  under  16  years  of  age,  . 

'                                              betwixt  15and.i0,  .        .  47& 

30  and  50,  •        .  4:V2 

50  and  70,  .        •  214 

upwards  of  70,  •       •  ^9 

Number  of  bachelors  in  1831  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,  '         '       *  o5 

old  maids  upwards  of  43,             ...  •  ^ 

in  1831  the  number  of  hearths  was,                 •  •           •  „„„ 

of  families,  in  which  there  are  children,  .          .  ^UJ 

of  children,  

which  makes  an  average  of  exactly  3  to  each. 
Number  of  insane,  3  ;  blind,  3 ;  dumb,  1 . 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People.— The  inhabitants  are  late- 
ly much  improved  in  point  of  cleanliness  and  dress.    Their  arti- 
cles of  diet,  which  formerly  consisted  chiefly  of  potatoes  and  oat- 
meal, now  embrace  a  greater  variety.  Instead  of  the  homely  ban- 
nock, kneaded  at  his  own  hearth,  you  find  the  cottager  enjoying  his 
loaf  from  the  baker,  which  he  accompanies  with  beer,  milk,  or  tea. 
Pork  and  rabbit  during  winter,  fish  and  cockles  during  summer, 
constitute  at  once  a  rich  and  varied  diet.  By  furnishing  manure  to 
the  neighbouring  farmers,  the  villagers  obtain  abundant  crops  of 
potatoes  at  an  easy  rate.  They  get  a  certain  portion  of  land,  m  which 
they  deposit  their  own  sets,  and  cultivate  and  clean  the  land  dunng 
the  summer  months,  which  tends  much  to  promote  their  health  and 
enjoyment.   Indeed,  our  villagers  are  in  possession  of  many  privi- 
leges and  comforts  which  are  denied  to  the  inhabitants  of  wealthier 
towns;  and,  on  the  whole,  they  are  a  contented,  industrious,  intel- 
ligent, religious,  and  happy  people.    The  demoralizing  practice 
of  smucrgling,  formerly  so  extensively  prevalent  on  the  shore,  has, 
bv  the^'operation  of  the  excise  laws,  been  abolished  for  many  years. 

'  During  the  last  three  years,  there  have  been  9  illegitimate 
births  in  the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture.— In  this  parish  agriculture  is  conducted  in  the  most 
approved  style.  The  deep  soils  undergo  regular  rotation  by  alter- 
nate husbandry.  The  five  or  six  years'  course  is  observed  on  the 
loams  and  deep  clays ;  the  eight  years'  rotation  suits  the  lighter  or 
weaker  soils ;  by  allowing  the  land  to  rest  in  pasture  for  two,  three, 
or  more  years.  On  these,  turnips  are  often  flaked  and  eat  ofl  by 
sheep,  which  is  found  a  prodigious  improvement  to  the  soil. 
Draining  of  all  kinds  is  universally  practised.  By  the  large  dram 
cut  between  the  Tay  and  the  Moultry,  of  5  miles  extent,  20  feet 


LEUCHARS. 


225 


wide,  and  12  or  14  feet  deep,  an  immense  extent  of  rich  land  has 
been  gained.  Numerous  side  cuts  have  been  made  into  it.  Tile 
or  furrow  draining  is  also  practised  successfully.  The  only  incon- 
venience from  this  extensive  draining  is  the  great  multiplication  of 
the  grey  rat.  Inclosing  by  dikes  of  stone  and  lime  has  gone  on 
with  great  spirit  within  these  twenty  years  past,  and  greatly  bene- 
fited the  lighter  soils. 

The  introduction  of  the  steam-engine  into  the  thrashing-mills 
on  two  farms  is  found  a  great  saving  of  horse  power. 

The  steadings  are  now  universally  in  good  condition,  and  on  se- 
veral farms  have  very  excellent  accommodation  for  cattle.  There 
is,  however,  still  a  want  of  cottars'  houses  for  farm-servants,  which 
obliges  the  farmer  to  crowd  young  ploughmen  into  bothies,  which 
is  unfavourable  to  their  improvement  in  morals.  It  would  perhaps 
remedy  the  evil,  to  distribute  the  young  men  among  the  famihes 
of  those  that  are  married,  and  lodge  one  or  two  of  them  with  the 
tenant  himself,  that  all  may  be  under  some  superintendence,  and 
be  profitably  employed  at  leisure  hours.  Indeed,  the  bothy  system 
is  universally  reprobated.  The  farm  roads  that  are  not  on  the  sta- 
tute labour  books,  are  in  the  v/orst  condition,  especially  in  winter. 
This  is  a  subject  of  loud  complaint  with  those  who  pay  so  heavily 
for  statute  labour,  and  reap  so  little  benefit  from  it. 

No.  of  acres  in  the  parish  amounts  altogether  to  about,    .  9300  Scotch  acres 

under  regular  cultivation,  and  not  in  pasture  are  6310 

poor  clay,  and  light  land,  often  in  pasture,  .  3060 
in  plantations,  .....  3qq 
ia  roads,  yO 

Rent  of  Land.— Theve  are  31  farms  (beside  small  feus)  of 
every  variety  of  soil  and  size;  and  140  ploughs,  averaging  fifty  acres 
for  each  plough.  The  average  rent  of  good  land  is  L.'s,  ]  Os.  per  acre, 
or  rather  L.  1,  with  one-half-boll  of  wheat,  one-half  boll  barley,  and 
one-half  boll  oats.  Many  acres  are  still  valued  at  L.  4  each.  Poor 
sods  are  from  L.  1,  10s.  to  7s.  6d.  per  acre,  the  average  value  of 
the  Tunts  moor.  The  long  tract  of  bents  is  fit  for  nothing  but  har- 
bouring rabbits,  a  species  of  stock  once  in  greater  repute"  but  now 
nearly  extirpated,  on  account  of  its  diminished  value,  and  its  de- 
predations on  the  neighbouring  crops.  About  a  thousand  acres  of 
such  links  may  be  considered  not  worth  cultivating.    The  valued 

:  rental  is  L.  10,541  Scots.  The  allpwed  real  rental  at  last  valua- 
tion of  stipend  was  L,  13,660,  and  it  is  thought  that  if  the  farms 
were  out  of  lease,  they  could  not  at  present  bring  much  beyond 

!  that  sum.    But  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the  real  rental,  as  there 

FIFE.  p 


22G 


FIFESHIRE. 


are  nine  proprietors  who  at  present  farm  their  own  property,  and 
the  rents  of  the  farms  in  lease  vary  every  year,  as  they  are  paid 

by  the  fiars.  ,   ,  rr. 

The  Clydesdale  horse  is  most  in  use  here,  and  the  leeswater 
breed  of  cattle,  crossed  with  the  Fife,  is  in  greatest  repute.  We 
have  every  variety  of  sheep,— Leicester,  Cheviot,  and_Highland. 
The  last  are  fed  with  turnip  in  winter,  for  the  butcher.  The  two 
first  are  kept  for  lambing  in  spring. 

Produce.— The  average  amount  and  value  of  gross  produce 
yearly  raised  in  the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as 
follows : 


L. 22000 


Produce  ofgrain  from  ^''ao"  acres  at  L.  7  per  acre,          -  - 
potatoes  and  turnips  at  L.  7  per  acre,            -  - 
hay  at  7d  per  stone,           -           -           "           "  " 
pasture  land,  good  and  bad,           -             -  " 
fisheries,  &c.  -  -  "  "  "  

L.  37.300 

Little  flax  or  hay  is  raised  for  the  market. 

Manufactures.— Besides  the  employment  of  about  30  families  as 
masons,  carpenters,  smiths,  tailors,  shoemakers  in  this  parish,  there 
are  a  great  many  engaged  in  weaving.    Independent  of  the  wea- 
vers who  are  employed  in  towelling  and  sheeting  for  home  con- 
sumption, there  are  about  two-thirds  who  work  coarse  linens,  chief- 
ly Dowlas,  Osnaburghs,  and  Silesias  for  the  Cupar  and  Dundee 
manufacturers,  who  export  them  for  America  and  the  West  In- 
dies.   Many  of  our  young  females  take  to  the  loom  during  the 
winter  months,  but  in  summer  they  prefer  out -door  work.  Since! 
the  introduction  of  machinery,  hand-spinning  has  almost  ceased  to^ 
be  a  branch  of  industry.    A  spindle  of  yarn  will  occupy  a  woman 
three  days  and  a-half,  for  which  she  will  earn  is. ;  a  spmdle  of 
shirting  yarn  will  yield  double  that  sum.    The  number  of  looms 
altogether  in  this  parish  may  be  estimated  at  about  130.  Our 
weavers  are  most  industrious,  working  many  of  them  ten  hours, 
sometimes  even  more.  Before  the  salutary  change  which  the  weav- 
ing interest  has  lately  experienced,  the  gain  per  day  at  the  loom, 
with  the  deduction  of  4d.  for  expenses,  did  not  exceed  8d.  Now, 
however,  provisions  being  moderate,  their  labour  commands  a  fair 
remuneration. 

An  extensive  distillery  wa*  erected  at  Seggie,  upon  the  river 
Eden,  twenty-six  years  ago,  and  has,  with  the  exception  of  this  year, 
been  all  along  in  successful  operation,  distilling  about  100  quar- 
ters of  grain  per  day,  during  the  cool  season.    Several  scores  of 


LEUCHAHS.  227 

cattle  were  annually  fed  within  the  premises.  It  yielded  constant 
employment  to  about  100  workmen,  who  received  ample  wages. 
The  advantages  of  such  an  establishment  to  the  farmers  in  the 
neighbourhood  have  been  fully  appreciated ;  as  a  ready  market 
was  afforded  them  for  the  disposal  of  grain. 

A  saw-mill,  barley,  lint,  and  two  oatmeal-mills  are  in  the  parish. 
V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Toicns.— The  market-towns  of  Cupar,  St  Andrews,  and 
Dundee,  situated  at  seven,  six,  and  eight  miles'  distance  respec- 
tively, with  daily  communication  by  post  and  carriers,  afford  every 
advantage  to  the  parish. for  buying  and  seUing. 

Filiates.— The  two  villages,— Leuchars,  with  614  inhabitants, 
and  BalmuUo,  a  straggling  village  on  the  Dundee  public  road,  with 
250  inhabitants,— are  dry,  well-aired,  well-watered,  and  healthy  vil- 
lages, with  excellent  turnpikes  through  them. 

Means  of  Communication.—The  soil  being  dry,  the  roads' 
throughout  the  parish  are  kept  without  difficulty  in  the  best  repair. 
There  are  fourteen  miles  of  turnpike,  and  nearly  ten  of  statute  la- 
bour roads.  Three  four-horse  coaches  have  continued  to  pass 
through  the  parish  daily  from  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen  for  many 
years,  but  their  number  is  now, reduced  to  two.  Coaches  run  twice 
a-week  by  way  of  Leuchars  between  Dundee  and  Qt  Andrews. 
Besides  the  Guard-bridge  pier  already  mentioned,  there  is  another 
at  Seggie,  which  is  chiefly  for  the  convenience  of  the  distillery. 

Ecclesiastical  State.~The  parish  church,  situate  in  the  village 
of  Leuchars,  is  distant  from  the  east  end  of  the  parish  about  four 
miles,  and  from  the  western  extremity  nearly  six  miles.  A  more 
centrical  position  for  the  bulk  of  the  population  would  be  about 
a  mile  farther  to  the  westward.  It  is  a  commodious,  well-light- 
ed, and  comfortable  building,  accommodating  850  sitters.  There 
are  not.  more  than  a  dozen  free  sittings  in  the  church ;  Is.  3d. 
only  is  the  average  of  each  seat  per  annum.  A  deep  gallery, 
holding  150  persons,  erected  out  of  the  poor's  funds,  accommo- 
dates the  householders  at  prices  graduating  from  2s.  6d.  to  6d.  each. 
As  many  more  are  also  supplied  with  seats,  at  a  small  rent,  by  the* 
principal  heritors,  after  the  tenants  and  their  cottars  are  provided 

The  manse  was  built  in  1806,  and  is  still  considered  a  respect- 
able and  well-finished  house,  and  pleasantly  situated.  The 
glebe,  together  with  the  garden,  contains  about  9  Scots  acres  of 
such  land  as  would  rent  at  about  L.  4  per  acre.  The  stipend  al- 
located m  1820  amounts  to  16  chalders,  which,  for  the  last  four 


228 


FIFESIIIRE. 


years  averages  at  L.  218  Sterling,  with  L.  8,  6s  8d.  for  commu- 
nion elements. 

There  is  only  one  church  of  Original  Seceders,  stationed  at 
BalmuUo,  with  about  70  joined  members,  and  a  respectable  minis- 
ter, whose  stipend  is  of  small  and  variable  amount.  But  to  supply 
the  deficiency,  his  supporters  have  built  him  a  small  manse  and  a 
few  offices,  and  granted  two  acres  for  a  cow's  grass. 

The  attendance  at  the  Estabhshed  Church  throughout  the  year 
is  steady  and  full.  The  number  of  persons  attending  church  may 
be  estimated  at  600  generally.  The  number  of  communicants 
average  700.  Some  are  induced,  from  convenience,  usually  to  at- 
tend the  neighbouring  parish  churches.  The  number  of  dissen- 
ters throughout  the  parish  is  perhaps  not  more  than  100. 

A  society  has  been  established  for  twelve  years  for  promoting 
religious  purposes  at  home  and  abroad,  which  has  contributed 
about  L.  40  annually.    However,  it  is  now  fast  declining. 

The  collections  throughout  the  year  at  the  church  door  average 
L.  23,  and  have  varied  little  in  amount  for  the  last  twenty-five 
years.  The  farmers  seem  to  prefer  giving  their  charity  to  their 
cottars,  with  whom  they  are  more  immediately  connected.  The 
villagers  assist  their  poorer  neighbours  in  a  similar  way,  without 
troubling  the  kirk-session,  by  rendering  it  the  medium  of  com- 
munication. A  mistaken  idea  prevails  among  many  that  the  ses- 
sion funds  are  so  rich  as  to  require  no  addition  to  them. 

Education. —  There  are  four  schools ;  one  parochial  and  three 
unendowed.  Of  the  latter,  one  is  for  teaching  sewing  chiefly,  and 
English  reading,— is  supported  by  the  Balcarres  family,  and  the 
fees  of  the  scholars.  The  remaining  two  are  supported  by  fees 
alone.  The  branches  taught  in  the  parish  school  are,  English, 
Latin,  Greek,  arithmetic,  practical  mathematics,  writing,  gram- 
mar, and  geography.  At  present  there  are  no  Latin  or  Greek 
scholars.  The  amount  of  fees  in  the  parochial  school  is  L.  20  • 
do.  in  the  Balmullo  school  at  present  L.  40  nearly.  The  amount 
of  fees  in  the  other  two  varies  much.  The  parish  schoolmaste 
-now  enjoys  the  maximum  salary;  and  interest  of  2000  merks  Scots, 
also  a  glebe  of  two  acres,  bequeathed  by  the  Rev.  A.  Henderson. 
The  children  generally  attend  only  two  or  three  quarters  in  thd 
year,  and  pay  6s.,  7s.  6d.,  or  at  most  9s.  per  annum  each,  but 
often  pay  weekly.  No  person  is  known  to  be  incapable  of  read- 
ing, and  very  few  who  cannot  write  after  nine  years  of  age.  There 


LEUCIIARS. 


229 


is  also  a  flourishing  Sabbath  school,  which  has  subsisted  for  twen- 
ty years.    No  additional  school  is  needed. 

Literature. — A  parish  library  was  lately  instituted  by  private 
subscription  in  Leuchars,  containing  some  hundred  volumes  of  va- 
rious useful  and  entertaining  reading,  calculated  to  promote  men- 
.  tal  and  moral  improvement. 

Poor. — The  multiplication  of  paupers  is  owing  to  the  growing 
impression,  that  heritors  are  bound  to  support  the  poor.  Dilapida- 
tions are  annually  making  on  the  lying  capital,  and  are  in  the  course 
of  annihilating  it.  The  number  now  receiving  aid  regularly  from 
the  kirk-session  is  30  persons ;  occasionally,  36.  The  average 
number  for  a  few  years  past  is  about  25.  Average  of  aliment  per 
week  for  each  is  Is.  3d.  The  annual  amount  of  charitable  contri- 
butions is  L.  75;  collections,  L.23;  land-rent,  L.24;  church  seat 
rents,  L.  12;  interest,  mortcloth,  hearse,  L.  11. 

Fairs. — Two  fairs  are  held  at  Leuchars  each  year  for  the  sale 
of  cattle  and  small  wares.  But  of  late  years  they  have  been  little 
frequented. 

Alehouses. — There  are  6  alehouses  in  the  village  of  Leuchars, 
and  other  6  along  the  great  roads  of  the  parish. 

Fuel. — Coal  is  brought  from  Newcastle  and  the  Frith  of  Forth 
by  sea ;  also  by  la.nd  from  the  coal  districts  in  the  county.  Wood 
is  much  used  as  a  burning  material  by  the  villagers,  who  enjoy  the 
valuable  privilege  of  carrying  home  the  debris  from  the  plantation 
on  Colonel  Lindsay's  estate. 

Advantage  is  often  taken  of  the  savings  banks  in  the  neighbour- 
ing towns.' 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Since  last  survey,  the  greatest  change  is  the  enlargement  of  our 
villages,  and  the  depopulation  of  the  country  parts  of  the  parish, 
which  has  not  been  attended  with  an  improvement  in  the  morals  of 
the  people  in  general. 

September  1836. 


UNITED  PARISHES  OF 
INVERKEITHING  AND  ROSYTH. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ANDREW  ROBERTSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History.* 
Name. — The  name  is  variously  written ;  formerly,  it  was  Enderkey- 
den,  Henderkeyden,  Enderkeithen,  and  Innerkeithing ;  at  present, 
it  is  Inverkeithing.  It  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic,  accord- 
ing to  one  etymology,  signifying  "  the  mouth  of  the  Keith,"  the 
rivulet  which  at  this  place  falls  into  the  sea;  according  to  another, 
"  the  confluence  of  the  slow  misty  water  with  the  sea  according 
to  a  third,  "  the  entrance  of  the  water  into  the  sea  between  little 
hills," — with  which  last,  appearances  best  correspond.  Rosyth, 
formerly  Rosaith,  is  said  to  be  also  from  the  Gaelic,  and  to  de- 
note a  tongue  of  land  extending  into  the  water. 

The  parishes  were  united  in  1636.  The  deed  of  annexation  be- 
ing lost,  nothing  certain  is  known  about  the  terms  of  the  union; 
but  it  is  said  that  the  incumbent  was  to  preach  for  two  Sabbaths 
successively  in  Inverkeithing,  but  on  every  third  Sabbath  at  Ro- 
syth. 

Topographical  Appearances. — This  parish  is  of  a  very  irregular 
figure.  The  Ferry  hills  form  an  indented,  and  somewhat  circular  pe- 
ninsula, upward  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  with  a  neck  about  300 
yards  broad.  From  this  neck  of  land,  the  parish  extends  west- 
ward upwards  of  three  miles,  (including  the  harbour  of  Bruce- 
haven,  and  a  small  portion  of  Limekilns,)  and  runs  northward  to 
Crossgates,  A\  miles,  and  eastward  to  Letham  hill,  about  1  mile. 
Its  general  figure,  (exclusive  of  the  Ferry  hills,)  resembles  two 
arms  stretched  out  nearly  at  right  angles,  embracing  a  part  of  the 
parish  of  Dunfermline,  and  nowhere  much  exceeding  a  mile  in 
breadth.  At  one  place,  the  parish  of  Dunfermline  approaches  with- 
in half  a  mile  of  the  burgh.  The  Frith  of  Forth  is  the  southern  and 

•  The  scientific  part  of  this  account  prepared  by  tjie  Rev.  Andrew  Robertson, 
Junior. 


INVERKEITIIING. 


231' 


part  of  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish  ;  it  adjoins  to  Dalgety 
on  the  east ;  and  is  next  to  Dunfermline  on  the  north  and  west. 

This  parish  may  be  viewed  as  consisting,  in  the  south  part,  of 
a  range  of  greenstone  hills,  not  exceeding  300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea ;  of  a  rising  ground  with  a  southerly  exposure  in  the 
north  part;  and  of  a  valley  between,  running  east  and  west. 
There  are  about  six  miles  of  sea  coast ;  a  small  portion  sandy,  an- 
other rocky  and  rather  high  ;  the  remainder  intermingled  mud  and 
rock.  The  bay  of  St  Margaret's  Hope,  the  islet  of  Inch  Garvie, 
and  the  rock  Bimar,  which  last  has  often  been  the  cause  of  ship- 
wreck, are  within  the  parish. 

Meteorology. — More  rain  falls,  a  few  miles  inland,  either  to  the 
north  or  south  than  here, — it  being  observed  that  the  clouds,  mov- 
ing towards  the  Frith  before  a  westerly  wind,  divide  about  Stir- 
ling, and  keep  the  higher  range  of  country  on  both  sides  of  the 
estuary,  leaving  the  lower  grounds  near  it  comparatively  free.  Some- 
times the  rain  is  so  strongly  electrical,  that  the  common  electrome- 
ter for  rain  will  charge  a  coated  jar  very  smartly  in  a  few  minutes. 

Hydrography. — The  adjoining  Frith  has  strong  currents  during 
the  flowing  and  ebbing  of  the  tides,  with  many  eddies  and  counter- 
currents,  particularly  near  the  Feiry,  where  it  is  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  only  broad.  Between  Inch  Garvie  and  the  north  side,  the 
greatest  depth  is  about  40  fathoms ;  south  of  that  rock  it  is  not 
more  than  22.  Near  Bimar,  there  is  one  point  where  it  is  said  to 
be  upwards  of  50  ;  but  a  mile  farther  up  it  does  not  exceed  11, 
with  a  bank  in  the  middle  on  which  there  is  still  shoaler  water. 

There  is  no  submarine  moss  known  to  exist  on  the  shores  of 
the  parish,  though  frequently  these  are  covered  to  a  considerable 
depth,  with  the  moss  thrown  into  the  water  at  Blair  Drummond, 
and  floated  down  with  the  ebbing  tide.  There  is,  however,  a  con- 
siderable concretion  of  the  sea  sand  going  on  in  several  places, 
forming  flat  reefs,  some  of  them  covered  with  sea-weed,  and  not 
much  softer  than  the  sandstone  rock. 

The  water  of  the  springs  in  this  neighbourhood  is  generally  im- 
pure, with  a  few  exceptions, — carbonate  of  lime,  and  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  parish,  iron,  being  the  characteristic  contaminating  sub- 
stances. The  composition  of  one  of  them  may  be  seen  in  Jame- 
son's Edinburgh  Philosophical  Journal  for  April  1829,  There 
are  none  of  these  springs  of  note  or  considerable  size,  and  most  of 
them  fail  in  dry  weather.  The  temperature  of  such  of  them  as 
have  been  tried  is  47°  or  48°  F.  Two  burns  or  streamlets  run 
through  the  parish,  unite  and  fall  into  the  harbour. 


232 


FIFESIIIRE. 


Geology. — With  the  slight  exceptions  of  a  few  hill  tops  and 
steep  faces,  almost  the  whole  of  the  parish  is  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation.  In  the  southern  part,  the  soil  is  a  decomposed  green- 
stone, light  on  the  eminences,  but  very  fertile.  More  in  the  in- 
terior, it  is  clayey  or  sandy,  having  chiefly  sandstone  for  its  sub- 
stratum, but  still  excellent  in  quality.  On  the  higher  grounds  in 
the  north  of  the  parish,  it  consists  of  a  ferruginous  sand  or  clay, 
or  of  moss,  very  poor,  and  not  susceptible  of  much  improvement, 
the  effect  of  labour  and  manure  upon  it  being  in  a  great  measure 
destroyed  by  the  first  wet  season.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  al- 
luvial soil  on  the  banks  of  the  streamlets  running  through  the  pa- 
rish, and  in  some  places  near  the  sea,  a  few  acres  of  deposits  of 
sand  or  clay. 

From  the  state  of  cultivation  in  which  the  parish  is,  there  are 
often,  in  the  interior  part  of  it,  no  exposures  of  the  subjacent  strata 
for  spaces  of  a  square  mile  together.  There  are,  however,  some 
very  good  sections  along  the  east  and  south-west  sides  of  it,  where 
it  is  washed  by  the  sea ;  on  the  north-east,  where  it  is  bounded  by 
a  rivulet  with  steep  banks ;  and  in  several  quarries. 

The  stratified  rocks  are  wholly  of  the  coal  formation  of  the 
secondary  series,  in  many  places  broken  through,  distorted  and 
overlaid  by  various  modifications  of  trap  rock,  usually  greenstone. 

In  the  north  part  of  the  parish  coal  exists,  but  it  crops  out 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  town,  and,  in  the  greater  part  of  the 
parish,  the  strata  underly  the  coal,  and  consist  of  the  mountain 
limestone,  sandstone,  slate-clay,  clay-ironstone,  bituminous  shale, 
and  a  stratified  whitish  slate-clay  or  marl ;  these  being  deeply 
buried  in  many  places  beneath  the  trap  rocks,  with  alluvial  matter, 
chiefly  clay.  The  small  islands  and  rocks  in  the  Frith,  which  are 
in  the  parish,  are  wholly  of  greenstone. 

The  stratified  rocks,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  parish  particu- 
larly, bear  the  marks  of  having  been  acted  on  by  a  disturbing  force 
producing  disruption  of  the  strata,  and  inclination  of  them  in  va- 
rious directions,  this  inclination  often  changing  abruptly  within  very 
short  distances.  This  disturbing  force  appears  to  have  been  inti- 
mately connected  with  the  masses  of  trap  rock  which  penetrate 
the  strata  in  many  places,  and  it  has  generally  acted  by  depres- 
sing the  strata,  and  causing  them  to  dip  all  round  towards  the  cen- 
tre of  the  mass  of  greenstone,  in  very  few  instances  by  upraising 
them,  and  giving  them  a  dip  away  from  it. 

Few  simple  minerals  are  contained  in  (he  rocks  of  this  neigh- 


INVERKEITHINO. 


233 


boui-hood.  Quartz  crystals,  some  of  them  purple,  steatite,  sul- 
phate of  barytes,  felspar,  and  some  zeolites,  are  found  in  the  green- 
stone ;  calcareous  spar  both  in  the  greenstone  and  limestone ;  and 
pyrites  is  abundant  in  the  ironstone,  slate-clay,  greenstone  and 
limestone.  Galena*  and  flinty  slate  also  exist,  and  boulders  of  chlo- 
rite and  mica  slate,  sometimes  of  large  size,  are  not  uncommon,  

though  within  these  few  years,  four  of  the  largest  of  these  have 
been  blasted  to  pieces  for  building  materials,  or  for  making  drains. 
The  greenstone  rocks  frequently  assume  the  columnar  form. 

Zooloff7j.—The  most  noted  wild  quadrupeds  are  the  hare,  badger, 
fox,  otter,  weasel,  but  all  very  scarce.  Among  the  birds  may  be  e°nu- 
merated  the  pheasant,  partridge,  sparrow-hawk,  kite,  a  blue-look- 
ing hawk,  the  common  and  a  white  owl,  raven,  carrion-crow,  rook, 
wood-pigeon,  thrush  and  blackbird,  both  of  which  are  much  on  the 
increase,  fieldfare,  redwing,  stonechat,  snow  and  common  buntino-, 
three  species  of  linnet,  whin-sparrow,  reed-sparrow,  several  of  the 
creepers,  jay,  magpie,  blue  and  yellow  wagtails,  chaffinch,  wren, 
&c.;  wood-cock,  snipe;  green,  gray  and  golden  plovers;  curlew, 
whimbrel,  brown  dotterel,  and  several  more  of  the  scolopax 
tribe ;  several  species  of  gull,  the  black-headed  tern,  pied  oys- 
ter catcher,  several  species  of  duck,  the  teal,  w'idgeon,  auks,  the 
plane  and  hooked-beaked  marrots,  the  cormorant,  heron, 'wild 
goose,  swan,  solan-goose,  and,  though  very  rarely,  a  large  species  of 
Anas  with  a  red  mark  of  a  horse-shoe  form  on  the  breast.  Most  of 
these  birds  desert  the  place  in  summer  and  return  in  winter.  Of 
amphibia  and  fishes,  there  are  two  species  of  seals,  the  porpoise 
the  finner,  so  named  from  its  long  dorsal  fin,  the  bottle-nosed 
whale,  a  much  larger  species  of  whale,  salmon,  sea-trout,  cod,  cod- 
ling, podley,  seathe,  flounder,  skate,  herring,  white-bait  &c 
The  common  cuttle  is  frequently  thrown  upon  the  beach,  and  oc- 
casionally that  deformed  fish  the  Lophius  of  a  large  size.  A  large 
Opah  was  thrown  on  shore  on  the  23d  July  1835,  but  it  was 
cut  into  several  pieces,  as  the  first  step  in  the  process  of  frying, 
before  it  was  seen  by  any  one  .who  knew  its  value.    This  exceed 
ingly  rare  and  most  beautiful  fish  must  be  seen  in  the  recent  state, 
before  any  conception  can  be  formed  of  its  superb  appearance! 
1  he  spots,  and  green,  gold,  and  silver  lustre  of  the  skin,  contrast- 
ed with  the  bright  red  of  the  fins  and  tail,  constitute  a  whole  which 

keUhfngfgX         :r  Lt"''.''"^  Ca.s.lela,ul  Hin,  „ca,-  Invcr- 

sophicaUourml.  I^'-'^ertson,  Junior,"  in  Vol.  vii.  of  Edinburgh  New  Philo. 


234 


FIFESHIRE. 


surpasses  description.  The  skin  of  it  was  uncommonly  thick  and 
of  a  whitish  texture ;  the  flesh  resembled  dark-coloured  beef.  Some 

rv^^     -1  11 


of  the  medusas  abound  in  autumn.  Ihere  are  no  shell-fish  of  con- 

''To2!y.-The  following  rather  rare  plants  have  been  gathered 
during  the  last  five  years  in  the  parish,  or  within  half  a  mile  of  its 
boundaries,  and  any  doubtful  ones  verified  by  the  highest  authori- 
ty    The  names  are  those  of  Hooker's  British  Flora. 


.  Salicornia  herbacea 
"Veronica  scutellata 

.  polita 

 Bauxbaumii 

Fedia  dentata 

 .-  auricula 

 mixta 

Eriophorum  angustifolium 
Eleocharis  pauciflora 
Scirpus  maritimus 

 .-  sylvaticus 

Iris  fetidissiuia 
Alopecurus  agrestis 
Poa  distans 

 rigida 

Hordeum  murinum 

Brachypodium  sylvaticura 

RotboUia  incurvata 

Polypogon  monspeliense 

Setaria  viridis  .    ,  a 

Catabrosa  aquatica,  dwarf  smgle-flowered 

variety 
Festuca  myurus 

 rubra 

Triticum  loliaceum 
Bromus  rigidus 

—  arvensis 
Dipsacus  sylvestris 
Parietaria  officinalis 
Sagina  maritima 

 apetala 

Primula  veris 

-  elatior 
Myosotis  collina 
__— —  cespitosa 

_^  sylvatica 

Symphytum  officinale 

.  tuberosum 

Viola  hirta 
—  -  odorata 

.  palustris 

Convolvulus  sepium 
Cynoglossum  officinale 
Erythrfea  centautiuni 
Solanum  dulcamara 

 ...  nigrum 

Hyoscyamus  niger_ 
Campanula  trachelium 
Anchusa  semper-virens 
Gentiana  campestris 
Ligusticum  scoticum 
Pimpinella  saxifraga 


Salsola  kali 
Chenopodium  maritimum 

  album 

 urbicum 

 .  bonus  Hcnricus 

Cicuta  virosa 
Heliosciadum  inundatum 
Myrrhis  odorata 
CEnanthe  crocata 
Torilis  nodosa 
Parnassia  palustris 
Sambucus  ebulus 
Drosera  Anglica 
Allium  vineale 

 arenarium 

Galanthus  nivalis 
Triglochin  maritimum 

 palustre 

Tulipa  sylvestris 
Alisma  ranunculoides 
Acer  campestre 
Adoxa  moschatellina 
Paris  quadrifolia 
Scleranthus  annuus 
Chrysosplenium  alternifolium 
Saxifraga  granulata 
Silene  Anglica 

.  noctiflora 

 nutans 

Saponaria  officinalis 
Areuaria  rubra 

,  -  maritima 

—  trinervis 
Spergula  subulata 
Sedum  ttlephium 

.  reflexum 

.  villosum 

Resedi  lutea 

.  luteola 

Prunus  domestica 

  -  insititia 

Tormentilla  reptans 
Potentilla  reptans 
Spirea  filipendula 
Helianthemum  vulgare 
Glaucium  luteum 
Thalictrum  flavum 

 majus 

.  minus 

Ranunculus  sceleratus 
.  auricomus 


Acinos  vulgaris 


INVERKEITHING. 


235 


Mcntlm  viridis 

  piperita 

Marrubium  viilgare 
Origanum  vulgare 
Ballota  nigra 
Staehys  arvensis 

  ambigua 

Linaria  repens  .. 
Coronopus  Ruellii 
Sisymbrium  sophia 
Nasturtium  sylvestre 
Lepidium  latifolium 

  campestre 

 ruderale 

Camelina  sativa 
Thiaspi  arvense 
Hesperis  matronalis 
Barbarea  precox 
Sinapis  nigra 

—  alba 

— —  tenuifolia 

 murab's 

Geranium  pyrenaicum 

—   columbinum 

sanguineum 


Malva  sylvestris 

 moschata 

Lavatera  arborea 
Ononis  ramossissima 
Vicia  lutea 

  Bobartii 

  sativa 

'  lathyi'oides 
Oxytropis  uralensis 
Astragalus  glycyphyllus 
Ornithopus  perpusillus 
Ervum  tetraspermum 
Melilotus  officinalis 

  leucantha 

Trifolium  scabrum 

 striatum 

 ornithopodioides 

Medicago  sativa 
—  maculata 


Hypericum  perforatum 

 pulchrum 

—  hirsutum 

 quadrangulum 

Cichorium  Intybus 
Carduus  acanthoides 

 tenuiflorus 

 marianus 

 nutans 

Bidens  cernua 

'  tripartita 

Tragopogon  majus 
Artemisia  absynthium 
Gnaphaliuin  dioicum 

 minimum 

•  germanicum 

 rectum 

 sylvaticum 

 uliginosum 

Aster  tripollum 
Pyrethrum  parthenium 
Matricaria  chamomilla 
Anthemis  arvensis 

 cotula 

Habenaria  viridis 
Gymnadenia  conopsea 
Malaxis  paludosa 
Epipactis  latifoiia 
Euphorbia  Lathyris 

■   exigua 

 paralia 

'   portlandica 

Arum  maculatum 

Carex  limosa,  and  otiier  rare  carices 
Myrica  gale 
Atriplex  angustifolia 

 littoralis 

 laciniata 

Cistopteris  fragilis 
Aspidium  lobatum 
Asplenium  marinum 

  ruta-muraria 

  tricliomanes 

 ~  adiantum  nigrum 


This  is  given  as  the  only  Scottish  station  of  Verbena  officinalis, 
but  it  has  not  been  found  for  many  years  back. 

Uses,  8fc.— Reseda  luteola  has  sometimes  been  collected  in 
cartloads,  for  the  dyers ;  Menyanthes  trifoliata  is  given  occasion- 
ally as  a  bitter,  particularly  to  sick  calves,  and  also  Teucrium  sco- 
rodonia.  Nettles  ( Urtica  dioica)  and  the  Caltlia palustris  are  used 
as  an  mgredient  in  rennet  for  curdling  milk  ;  St  John's  wort  (Hy- 
pericum perforatum  B.M pulchrum)  in  an  herb  mixture  for  coughs; 
and  an  mfusion  of  black  horehound  {Ballota  nigra,)  for  colds! 
This  last,  however,  appears  to  be  but  a  rough  medicine.  A  per- 
son who  took  it,  said  that  it  made  him  very  «  sick  and  ill,"  though 
It  cured  him.   The  leaves  of  Tussilago- farfara  have  been  smoked 


230 


FIFESHIRE. 


by  asthmatic  people,  instead  of  tobacco,  it  is  said,  with  considerable 
benefit;  and  infusion  of  agrimony  is  a  favourite  beverage  with  some 
old  persons,  instead  of  tea.* 

From  the  high  state  of  cultivation  in  which  the  parish  is,  it 
cannot  well  be  ascertained  what  plants  are  attached  to  certain  soils, 
excepting  the  well  known  distinctions  of  aquatic,  bog,  and  rock 
plants.  The  rarer  plants  are  usually  found  in  the  greenstone  soil, 
but  in  general  the  plants  do  not  affect  soils  so  much  as  localities ; 
a  plant  being  often  abundant  in  one  spot,  while  in  another,  under 
exactly  similar  circumstances,  not  a  particle  of  it  is  to  be  seen. 

There  are  few  plantations  of  trees,  and  these  but  of  very  small 
extent.  When  young  these  contain  principally  larch  and  fir,  which, 
as  they  grow  up,  are  thinned  out  to  make  room  for  the  elm,  oak, 
ash,  and  beech,  planted  along  with  them.  The  only  trees  appa- 
rently indigenous  are  a  few  alder  and  willow  bushes  on  the  banks 
of  the  streamlets. 

11, — Civil  History. 
5„,.^/j._Inverkeithing  is  a  Royal  Burgh  of  a  very  ancientdate.  It 
has  a  charter  from  William  the  Lion,  confirming  another  still  older  ; 
and  James  VL,  by  one  dated  1598,  recognizes  the  privileges  be- 
stowed by  former  monarchs,  and  declares  its  rights  of  custom,  &c. 
to  extend  from  the  water  of  Leven  on  the  east,  to  that  of  Devon 
on  the  west,  and  as  far  north  as  Kinross.  Mostof  these  have  been  sold 
or  disposed  of;  but  there  are  still  retained  th^  duties  at  the  markets 
held  at  Kinross  and  Tulliebole,  and  the  customs  at  North  Ferry 
passage-    Even  Edinburgh  at  one  time  paid  a  triflmg  acknow- 
ledgment of  superiority  for  some  parts  of  the  Calton-hill,  but  it 
was  bought  up  or  fell  into  desuetude.   According  to  the  first  print- 
ed return  of  the  treasurer  under  the  new  regulations  of  burghs, 
«  the  funds,  property,  and  effects"  of  the  burgh  are  valued  at 
L.  7437,  10s.  5^^d.  exclusive  of  the  town-house,  jail,  and  "other 
property,"  and  the  debts  at  L.  2029.    The  burgh  affairs  are  at 
present  managed  by  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  a 

•  This  rustic  practice,  however,  is  sometimes  not  unattended  with  danger-  Once 
upon  inquiry  being  made  what  had  become  of  a  patch  of  hyos'^yaun.s  wh.ch  had 
dFsappearediust  as  the  plants  were  about  coming  into  flower,  information  was  re- 
SvedXt  two  persons  of  the  common  working  class  had  taken  the  ^^olo  u^,^ 
nX  "  excellent  medicine."  Shortly  after  this,  a  farm-labourcr  was  met  can-y  ng  an 
r^tense  sheaf  of  digitalis,  who,  u,ol  being  asked,  from  a  ^^^^^^^^ 
intended  to  do  with  it,  replied,  "  to  make  fine  hcb-tea  for  the  co  d.  ^j'"  , 

course  ".formed  of  the  risk  of  poisoning  which  he  might  mcur  by  drmkn,g  the  saul 

tea. 


INVERKEITIIING. 


237 


treusurer,  and  nine  councillors.  The  constituency  of  the  burgh 
for  parliamentary  elections  is  about  57  ;  for  the  election  of 
town-councillors,  about  26.  It  sends  a  Member  to  Parliament 
along  with  Culross,  Queensferry,  Stirling,  and  Dunfermline. 

By  a  grant  from  Queen  Mary  and  Henry  Darnley,  the  ancient 
family  of  Henderson  of  Fordel,  having  a  part  of  their  estate  within 
the  parish,  held  the  office  of  hereditary  provost  and  sheriff;  but 
this  right  was  never  exercised.  In  the  ridings  of  the  Scottish 
Parliament,  the  provost  was  entitled  to  ride  next  to  the  provost  of 
Edinburgh.  The  Magistrates  had  the  power  of  pit  and  gallows 
within  their  jurisdiction,  that  is,  of  inflicting  the  punishment  of 
drowning  or  hanging, — in  testimony  of  which,  a  rising  ground  fac- 
ing the  town,  still  bears  the  name  of  the  Gallow-bank,  and  there  is 
still  in  it  a  Gallow-tower.  The  court  of  four  burghs,  authorized 
by  James  III.  to  draw  up  a  set  of  mercantile  regulations,  had  their 
sittings  here ;  and  before  the  convention  of  burghs  was  appointed 
to  be  held  at  Edinburgh,  Inverkeithing  was  the  usual  place  of  its 
meeting.  The  last  assemblage  of  the  Ciddees  took  place  in  the 
church. 

Some  battles  have  been  fought  here,  the  last  in  1651,  by  Crom- 
well's troops  against  the  Scots.  There  is  a  tradition  that,  in  the 
reign  of  Alexander  III.  the  Jews  proposed  to  establish  a  fortified 
commercial  city  on  the  Ferry  hills,  but  the  design  somehow  mis- 
gave. A  document  confirmatory  of  this  is  said  to  exist  in  one  of 
the  libraries  or  pubhc  offices  in  Edinburgh.  St  Margaret's  Hope 
is  so  called,  because  it  was  the  place  where  Margaret,  who  after- 
wards became  Queen  of  Malcolm  HI,  landed  during  a  storm  in 
her  flight  from  England.  The  adjacent  ferry  is  also  named  from 
her,  (Buchanan  calls  it  Margaritse  Portus,)  supposed  to  be  from 
her  frequently  using  it  in  her  passage  to  or  from  the  palace  at 
Dunfermline. 

Ferrtj.—ki  this  ferry,  is  a  flourishing  village  inhabited  by  the  boat- 
men, principally,  and  much  resorted  to  in  summer,  as  sea-bathing 
quarters.  The  piers  are  unrivalled,  and  there  is  an  elegant  and  com- 
modious mn,  lately  built.  In  old  times,  this  ferry  was  subject  to 
the  Abbots  of  Dunfermline,  who  drew  the  fortieth  penny  of  pas- 
sage money  to  repair  their  Quair,  and  also  one-fourth  to  supply 
boats.  The  present  superior  of  whom  the  ground  of  the  village 
IS  feued,  ,s  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale.  Of  later  years,  the  right 
ot  lerry  belonged  to  neighbouring  proprietors,  the  Earl  of  Rose- 


238 


PIFESIIIRE. 


bery,  Dundas  of  Dundas,  &c.  to  whom  a  rent  was  paid,  but  up- 
wards of  twenty  years  ago,  it  was  vested  by  act  of  Parhament  in 
trustees.  The  rent,  under  this  act,  once  amounted  to  L.  2300, 
but  now  it  yields  about  L.  1500  only.  The  currents  of  the  tide 
here  are  so  peculiar,  that,  as  was  proved  upon  trial  when  an  at- 
tempt was  made  about  the  beginning  of  the  century  to  turn  off  the 
old  boatmen,  no  sailor,  unless  brought  up  upon  the  passage,  can 
navigate  the  boats  without  much  delay  and  risk. 

At  one  time,  a  visionary  project  of  a  tunnel  beneath  the  Frith 
a  little  way  above  the  ferry,  was  entertained ;  and  more  lately, 
another  of  a  chain  bridge  across  it,  having  Inch  Garvie  in  the 
middle  for  an  intermediate  step.  There  is  at  the  ferry  a  battery,  at 
present  dismantled,  erected  after  the  visit  of  Paul  Jones. 

Eminent  Men— The  settlement  of  the  last  incumbent  of  this 
parish  is  a  conspicuous  event  in  the  history  of  the  church.  It  took 
place  in  1752,  and  occasioned  the  deposition  of  Mr  Gillespie,  mi- 
nister of  Carnock,  on  account  of  his  refusal  to  attend  the  meetings 
of  presbytery  held  for  that  purpose.  This  was  the  origin  of  the 
Relief  church.  The  parish  has  produced  no  eminent  men,  unless 
Admiral  Greig,  who  rose  to  the  chief  command  of  the  Russian 
navy,  and  died  in  1 788,  is  to  be  accounted  one. 

Land-owners.— The  valued  rent  is  L.  6866,  16s.  lOd.  Scots 
money,  and  the  proprietors  are  rated  as  follows :  Earl  of  Hopetoun, 
L.  2268  ;  Sir  Robert  Preston's  Heirs,  L.  1947, 19s.  4d. ;  Sir  Philip 
C.  H.  Durham,  G.  C.  B.,  L.  750,  16s.  8d. ;  Rev.  John  Kellock 
Cuninghame,  L.  482,  19s.  4d. ;  James  Hunt,  Esq.  L.  425.;  John 
Newton,  Esq.  L.  392,  16s.  lid.;  Heritors  of  Ferry  hills,  (several) 
L.  246 ;  John  Cuninghame,  Esq.  L.  159,  14s.  9d. ;  Marquis  of 
Tweeddale,  L.  86,  15s.  Id;  David  Peat,  Esq.,  L.63;  Ferguson 
Sharp,  Esq.,  L.  31,  12s.  6d. ;  Captain  Spittal's  Disponees,  L.  7  ; 
Andrew  TuUoch's  Heirs,  L.  5,  2s.  3d. 

Parochial  Registers.  *— The  minutes  of  session  are  regular  and 

•  There  are  some  curious  notices  of  old  customs  to  be  found  in  the  old  «jinutes 
Money  appears  to  have  been  often  given  from  the  poor's  funds,  to  enable  students  to 
prosecute  heir  studies,  and  there  was  a  fine  to  the  poor  on  baptisms  and  marriages, 
IheTthese  took  place  in  the  parties'  own  houses.  The  ^-^t  rir^els ^  hiv" 
of  appointing  who  should  sit  in  the  vacant  seats  in  the  church,  and  it  seems  to  have 
been  acquiesced  in  Persons  are  prohibited  from  receiving  into  their  houses,  or  let- 
Si"  hoTesri  another  parish,  who  do  not  bring"  to/i/?c«to  "  and  the 
civU  owers  Ire  called  upon  to  enforce  this.  Persons  recusant  are  compelled  to  ap- 
peiCe  the  kirk-session,  and  to  submit  to  the  discipline  enjoined,  under  penalty 
of  imprisonment  by  the  magistrates,  until  they  consent  to  do  so. 

The  exercise  of  discipline  also  appears  to  have  been  what  would  at  present  be  ac 
counred  rigorous     During  the  first  thirty  years  of  last  century,  there  are  instances 


INVERKEITIIING. 


239 


without  blanks,  from  1676  to  the  present  date.  The  register  of 
baptisms  and  marriages  also  extends  from  1676  to  the  present 
date,  though  from  1676  to  1698,  in  the  same  books  with  the  ses- 
sion minutes,  and  intermixed  with  them  as  they  occurred,  and  with 
the  exception  of  a  blank  from  1711  to  1748,  caused  by  the  loss 
of  a  book,  which,  according  to  an  entry  in  the  session  minutes 
about  1755,  was  taken  to  London  as  evidence  in  a  law-suit  about 
1750,  and  never  returned.  There  is  a  register  of  burials  from 
1702  to  1708,  and  for  1710,  and  of  testimonials  given  and  re- 
ceived from  1701  to  1711. 

Antiquities. — On  the  top  of  Letham  hill,  there  is  what  is  said  to 
be  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  temple.  To  uninitiated  eyes,  it  ap- 
pears to  be  a  few  blocks  of  greenstone,  somewhat  circularly  arranged 
on  the  top  of  a  greenstone  hill,  where  such  loose  fragments  of  the 
rock  below  are  to  be  expected.  In  the  north  part  of  the  parish, 
there  is  a  stone  10  feet  high,  2^  broad,  and  1  thick,  with  rude 
figures  of  men  and  horses  cut  upon  it,  but  now  much  defaced,  sup- 
posed to  be  a  Danish  monument.  Situated  on  a  small  rock,  con- 
nected by  a  causeway  with  the  main-land,  stands  the  Castle  of  Ro- 
sy th,  noticed  in  the  novel  of  the  Abbot.  It  is  a  ruinous  square  tower, 
forming  the  north-east  angle  of  what  must  have  been  a  pretty  large 
square  of  buildings.  Over  the  gateway  is  a  mouldered  armorial 
bearing,  surmounted  by  a  crown,  and  M.  R.  1561.  On  the  stone 
bars  of  the  great  windows  of  the  hall,  which  are  evidently  much 
more  recent  than  the  original  loop-holes,  is  "  F  *  S"  and  M  *  N" 

of  persons  rebuked  before  the  congregation  for  swearing,  drunkenness,  stealing,  for 
not  attending  public  worship,  for  being  out  of  doors  unnecessarily,  or  carrying  water 
on  the  Sabbath,  for  ferrying  people  across  on  the  Sabbath  without  an  order  from  the 
minister,  for  abusive  language  or  calling  names,  very  frequently  women  for  scolding, 
once,  a  man  for  cursing  and  striking  his  wife,  and  another  for  consulting  a  "  wiz. 
ard."  An  offender,  in  addition  to  the  usual  censures  and  fine,  is  ordered  to  learn 
to  read  within  a  year,  under  penalty  of  censure,  if  he  shall  be  found  "  deficient  in 
learning."  According  to  order  of  the  Lord  Ordinary,  there  is,  in  1701,  a  guardian 
of  morality  appointed  in  the  parish,  to  put  tlie  laws  in  execution  against  immorality 
and  profaneness,  and  there  appears  to  have  been  a  strict  system  of  espionage  esta- 
blished in  regard  to  these. 

In  1702,  there  is  a  named  list  of  the  communicants,  chiefly  females,  amounting  to 
seventy-eight  in  all,  and  a  few  years  after,  a  named  list  of  elders,  amounting  to  nine- 
teen. During  this  period  it  is  customary  to  mark  in  the  minutes  the  name  of  any 
stranger  who  may  have  preached,  and  very  often  the  subject  of  his  sermon.  Even 
on  solemn  occasions,  decorum  was  evidently  not  very  strictly  observed  in  those  days, 
as  at  every  sacrament  there  is  a  regular  entry  of  a  sum  of  money  paid  to  the  town 
officers  "  for  keeping  ofl="  tlie  thronge."    Many  irregular  marriages  are  also  recorded. 

About  1720,  the  parish  seems  to  have  been  in  a  sad  state  so  far  as  morality  was 
concerned,  and  also  in  the  years  preceding  1745,  both  periods  of  great  political  ex- 
citement, Offenders  during  the  time  between  these  dates  were  also  exceedingly  re- 
fractory and  contumacious,  and  there  appear  to  be  good  grounds  for  concluding  that 
the  present  generation  and  their  fathers  have  improved  very  much  upon  their  ances- 
tors ni  those  days,  at  least  in  sobriety  and  decency  of  behaviour. 


240 


FIFESIIIRE. 


"  Anno  1639."    Upon  the  south  side  of  the  Castle  near  the  door 
is  this  inscription  : — 

IN  DEV  TYM  DRAW  YIS  COUD  YE  BEL  TO  CLINK, 
QVHAIS  MERY  VOCE  VARNIS  TO  MEAT  AND  DRINK. 

There  appear  to  be  the  remains  of  a  four  gun  battery  on  the  side 
of  the  rock  next  the  sea.  This  Castle  is  said  by  Sir  Robert  Sibbald 
to  have  been  the  seat  of  Stewart  of  Rosyth  or  Durisdeer,  a  descend- 
ant of  James  Stewart,  brother  to  Walter,  the  great  Steward  of 
Scotland,  and  father  of  Robert  II.    There  is  a  tradition  that  the 
mother  of  Oliver  Cromwell  was  born  in  it,  and  that  the  Protector 
visited  it  when  he  commanded  the  army  in  Scotland.    It  is 
now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Hopetoun.     At  the  place  of 
encampment  of  Cromwell's  troops  on  the  Ferry  hills,  swords 
and  English  coins  have  been  dug  up,  and  cannon  shot,  almost 
consumed  by  rust,  have  been  found  near  the  field  of  battle.  In 
the  North  Ferry,  there  was  once  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  found- 
ed by  Robert  I.,  which  was  a  dependency  of  the  Abbey  of  Dun- 
fermline, and  subsisted  till  destroyed  by  the  English  in  1651.  Its 
ruins  still  remain,  and  the  burial  ground  is  still  in  use.  Between 
the  ferries  is  Inch  Garvie,  on  which  Sir  Archibald  Dundas  of  that 
Ilk  obtained  from  James  IV.  leave  to  build  a  castle,  with  import- 
ant privileges.    It  was  anciently  fortified,  and  used  as  a  state  pri- 
son, and  was  repaired  and  mounted  with  cannon  during  the  late 
war.    At  present,  it  is  abandoned.    Besides  this  building,  there  is 
on  the  west  end  of  the  rock,  a  ruined  round  tower  or  redoubt,  and 
on  the  east  end,  what  is  said  to  be  the  remains  of  a  battery,— ac- 
cording to  tradition,  both  erected  by  Cromwell's  soldiers.    In  the 
burgh  there  are  still  houses -pointed  out  as  the  town  residences  of 
the  Rosebery  and  Fordel  families,  and  it  is  asserted  that  there  was 
even  here  a  palace  of  David  1.    An  old  tenement,  named  "  the 
Inns,"  is  said  to  have  been  the  residence  of  Annabella  Drummond 
queen  of  Robert  III.    By  a  charter  from  her  husband,  the  magis- 
trates were  to  pay  to  her  a  hundred  shillings  a  year  at  the  feast  of 
Pentecost.    She"died  here  in  1403.    The  house  is  exempted  from 
burgh  jurisdiction,  though  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  is  said 
to  contain,  among  other  conveniences,  a  subterraneous  passage  to 
the  sea.    Numerous  vaults  and  ruins  are  near  it,  and  the  founda- 
tions of  the  "  chapel"  were  lately  dug  up.    These  are  supposed 
to  have  belonged  either  to  the  Franciscans  or  Dominicans,  both 
of  whom  had  once  monasteries  in  the  place.    When  the  late  church 
was  repaired  in  1806,  there  was  found  a  font  made  of  fine  sand- 
stone, which  has  been  placed  in  the  porch  of  the  present  church. 


INVERKEITIIING.  241 

Its  form  is  hexagonal,  the  extreme  breadth  being  a  little  more 
than  three  feet,  and,  with  its  pedestal,  it  is  about  four  feet  high. 
The  bowl  of  it  is  a  sort  of  hemisphere,  two  feet  broad,  and  one  deep, 
with  a  hole  of  about  an  inch  diameter,  pierced  through  the  bottom. 
It  had  been  carefully  buried  and  surrounded  with  straw,  the  remains 
of  which  were  still  beside  it,  and  it  contained  within  the  bowl  of 
it  a  quantity  of  human  bones,  probably  relics,  and  an  ink-glass. 
The  six  angles  of  it  are  wrought  into  a  kind  of  ornamental  pillar, 
and  on  every  one  of  the  six  faces,  there  is  the  bust  of  an  angel 
with  expanded  wings,  having  on  its  breast,  and  supported  by  its 
hands,  a  shield  of  a  triangular  form  with  curved  outlines.  These 
shields  contain  ancient  armorial  bearings.    By  persons  skilled  in 
heraldry,  these  are  said  to  be  the  arms  of  Scotland  j  those  of 
David  Bruce  and  Margaret  Logie,  his  queen,  or  of  Robert  III.  and 
Annabella  Drummond,  who  were  probably  reigning  when  the 
font  was  made ;  those  of  Gourlay  of  Kincraig  ;  those  of  Alderston, 
the  heiress  of  which  married  the  laird  of  Kincraig  of  that  time' 
being,  or  of  a  Stuart  (Rosyth,)  a  Clerk,  a  Lindsay,  &c.— probably 
those  of  Lowis  of  Menar,  or  of  Loren  of  Harwood,  or  of  a  Fowlis, 
—the  arms  of  Melville,  old  Lords  of  Melville  in  Fifeshire,  or  of 
Craigie  of  Craigiehall.    The  difficulty  of  fixing  some  of  these  more 
precisely  arises  from  the  bearings  not  being  coloured  or  hatched  to 
represent  colouring. 

The  communion  cups,  dated  1643,  are  of  rather  curious  form 
oeing  narrow  and  deep,  with  a  long  stalk  and  foot  like  a  wine 
glass.    The  workmanship  is  rude,  and  they  have  been  made  in 
three  pieces,  and  roughly  soldered  together.-   What  is  remark- 
able, as  shewing  the  state  of  the  arts  at  the  time,  is,  that  there 
is  a  border  round  the  foot,  which  appears  to  have  been  a  ribband 
of  metal,  figured  in  a  cress,  or  chased  in  a  rolling  machine,  then 
turned  round  till  the  ends  met,  and  the  ring  thus  made  rudely 
soldered  to  the  foot  of  the  cup,  in  the  same  manner  as  chased 
plate  brass  articles  are  done  in  the  present  day.     The  silver  is 
whiter  and  brighter  than  the  most  of  modern  plate. 
_   Modern  Buildings.~The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  ris- 
ing ground  immediately  above  a  small  bay  adjoining  the  Frith,  with 
a  south  exposure.     It  consists  of  a  main  street,  and  a  smaller  one 
branching  off  it,  besides  some  wynds.    There  have  been  many 
houses  built  or  rebuilt  within  the  last  twenty  years,  so  that  the  place 
has  been  considerably  extended  and  improved.    It  contains  a  new 
Church,  replacing  thatwhich  was  burnt  in  1825,  a  new  school-house, 

FIFE.  ' 

Q 


242  FIFESHIRE. 


and  a  grain  stock-market,  all  of  most  handsome  appearance,  and  a 
curious  and  rather  loftv  stone  pillar  at  the  cross  ;  also  a  town-house, 
and  a  Meeting-house  belonging  to  the  United  Associate  Synod. 
There  is  a  building  intended  for  a  Lazaretle  between  Inverkeithing 
and  the  Ferry,  which,  however,  had  been  httle  used  for  a  dozen  ot 
years  past,  and  was  sold  last  year  by  Government  for  a  trifling  sum, 
having  a  heavy  feu-duty  upon  it,-the  frigate  Dartmouth,  stationed 
in  St  Margaret's  Hope,  being  now  employed  for  the  quarantine 
service  in  its  stead.    The  buildings  in  this  neighbourhood  are  ot 
white  sandstone  or  greenstone. 

III. — Population. 

According  to  the  return  made  to  Dr  Webster  this  was  in  1755.  1094 
By  an  accurate  private  list  made  in  .  •     *    j'  2228 

By  the  Government  census  .  -  jg^'  2400 

■  ■  ■  182l'  2512 

■  .         1831,  3189 
Of  this  last  return,  1569  are  males,  and  1620  females. 

The  number  residing  in  the  burgh  is  2020,  being  978  males, 
and  1042  females ;  in  the  village  of  North  Ferry,  434,  being  203 
males,  and  231  females  ;  in  that  of  HiUend,  279,  being  146  males, 
and  133  females  ;  and  in  the  country  part  of  the  parish,  458,  be- 
ing 243  males,  and  215  females. 

The  increase  in  the  number  of  parishioners  between  1821  and 
1831  is  677.  This  great  increase  may  be  partly  accounted  tor 
bv  the  establishment  of  a  large  distillery  between  these  periods, 
but  it  arose  principally  from  a  large  influx  of  labourers  employed 
about  J  831,  to  work  in  the  greenstone  quarries  supplying  materi- 
als for  the  extension  of  Leith  pier,  and  the  erection  of  the  new 
bridge  at  Stirling.  These  quarries  being  abandoned  upon  the  com- 
pletion of  the  works,  the  labourers  and  their  families  have  gone 
elsewhere,  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  population  is  not  now  so  nu- 

merous  as  in  1831.  „ .  ,  ,  •    ,  i 

The  number  of  families  was  in  1831,  712,  of  inhabited  houses 
438,  and  of  other  houses,  12.    The  average  number  of  a  family 

nearly  4i.  -j-  • 

There  are  two  persons  only  of  independent  fortune  residing  in 
the  parish,  and  one  of  them  is  but  a  very  small  proprietor  in  it. 
There  are  no  noblemen  resident,  and  but  one  of  the  larger  heri- 
tors. The  proprietors  of  lands  in  the  parish  of  more  than  L.  50 
rental,  are  1 1  in  number. 

IV. — Industry. 
There  are  25  occupiers  of  land,  employing  sixty-eight  labourers 


INVERKEITHING. 


243 


or  servants,  and  there  are  282  males  engaged  as  retail-dealers,  or 
in  handicraft  trades,  either  as  masters  or  workmen. 

Agriculture. — From  the  number  of  heritors  in  the  parish,  and 
the  accurate  measurement  of  many  of  the  lands  being  unknown, 
and  also  from  the  many  subdivisions  of  lands,  nothing  approach- 
mg  even  to  a  good  approximation  of  the  number  of  acres  in  it  could 
be  obtained  without  actual  admeasurement,  or  a  very  great  degree  of 
trouble  in  collecting  information,  often  inaccurate.  It  may  be  stated, 
however,  in  general,  that  almost  every  piece  of  ground  capable  of  cul'- 
tivation  is  under  the  plough;  that  there  is  but  a  very  small  propor- 
tion of  wood,  and  that  chiefly  young ;  and  that  there  is  no  pasture  ex- 
ceptmg  a  small  quantity  on  the  steepest  acclivities  of  the  hills.  There 
are  no  commons.   The  lowest  rent  of  land  in  the  parish  is  L.  J ,  5s, 
the  highest  approaches  L.  4,  per  acre ;  but  as  many  of  the  rents 
are  partly  in  grain,  convertible  at  the  fiars'  prices,  they  are  of 
course  variable.  The  average  rent  is  nearer  the  higher  than  the  low- 
er rate.  From  the  vicinity  to  Edinburgh,  the  rate  of  labour,  and  the 
prices  of  raw  produce  and  manufactures,  are  regulated  by  the 
prices  there.    The  husbandry  follows  different  systems  of  rota- 
tion.   The  crops  raised  are,  wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans  and  pease, 
potatoes,  hay,  turnips.    Much  waste  land  from  moss  has,  of  late 
years,  been  reclaimed  in  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  and  there 
has  been  a  great  deal  of  draining,  some  of  it  tile,  but  the  most  of 
the  fiirmers  prefer  stones,  as  better,  and  also  more  economical. 
A  good  many  sloop  loads  of  manure  are  imported  from  Leith 
The  leases  are  almost,  without  exception,  for  nineteen  years.  Many 
of  the  farm  buildings  have  lately  been  erected  in  the  most  com- 
modious style;  they  are  almost  all  good,  and  the  fields  are  well 
enclosed  with  thorn  hedges  chiefly,  though  sometimes  with  stone 
walls. 

Quarries.-GveBustoue  for  building,  paving,  and  -road-making, 
IS  quarried  in  several  places,  and  often  sent  off  by  sea.  A  good 
many  years  ago,  great  quantities  were  shipped  from  the  Ferry  hills 
tor  paving  the  streets  of  London ;  but  the  granite  of  Aberdeen  is 
now  preferred  for  that  purpose.  Sandstone  is  also  quarried  in  two 
places,  chiefly  for  exportation  coastwise,  and  limestone  in  several 
ior  home  consumption,  or  sending  to  a  distance  by  sea.  These  are 
wrought  by  the  aid  of  gunpowder,  wedges,  and  levers,— the  work- 
men being  particular  in  keeping  a  face  upon  the  quarry.  There 
are  no  mines.  There  are  no  coal-pits,  though  there  are  many 
closely  adjoining  in  the  neighbouring  parishes. 


244  FIFESHIRE. 


Fisheries.— The  herring  fishery  in  winter  was  once  of  great  im- 
portance, but  for  several  years  back  it  has  been  all  but  annihilat- 
ed.   There  is  a  very  trifling  stake-net  salmon  fishery. 

Produce.— '^^o  estimate  of  the  quantity  of  raw  produce  raised 
in  the  parish  can  be  given,  for  the  reasons  mentioned  above. 

Manufactures.— There  is  a  large  distillery  in  which  whisky  is 
made,  both  for  the  English  and  home  markets,  by  Coffey's  pa- 
tent steam  apparatus.  There  are  also  two  founderies  in  the  parish, 
where  large  articles  are  cast,  and  steam-engines  and  other  machi- 
nery made.  There  is  a  tan-work,  a  ship-building  yard,  a  salt-work, 
a  magnesia  manufactory,  and  a  brick-work,  where  very  excellent 
fire-bricks  are  made,  and  also  chimney  cans  of  elegant  patterns, 
and  other  ornamental  work,  exactly  resembhng  a  fine  freestone. 
A  mill  driven  by  steam  has  also  been  erected  for  crushing  bones 
for  agricultural  purposes.   These  bones  are  chiefly  imported  from 
abroad,  and  are  exported  when  ground  down  to  supply  the  con- 
sumption of  the  east  coast  of  Scotland,-little  of  them  being  used 
in  the  district.    There  are  two  mills  for  making  meal  and  flour, 
and  a  barley  mill.    A  considerable  number  of  the  usual  tradesmen 
reside  in  the  parish,  and  also  some  weavers  employed  by  the  da- 
mask table  cloth-manufacturers  of  Dunfermline.     The  distillery 
employs  about  80  men  when  in  operation,  the  two  founderies 
from  40  to  50,  and  there  are  a  considerable  number  of  carpenters 
in  the  building  yard.    The  usual  time  of  working  is  ten  hours  a 
dav  the  employments  are  healthy  and  the  payment  good. 

Navination.-There  are  twenty  vessels  of  from  20  to  100  tons 
burden  belonging  to  the  port,  employed  chiefly  in  the  coasting 
trade  A  considerable  number  of  foreign  and  English  vessels 
load  coal  here,  and  some  occasionally  bring  bark,  timber,  and  bones 
to  be  ground  down  for  manure. 

v.— Parochial  Economy.  . 
There  is  in  this  parish,  the  burgh  of  the  same  name,  having, 
as  before  stated,  a  population  of  2020.  It  has  not  much  trade, 
the  coal  and  stone  shipped  here  being  brought  from  the  interior 
parts  The  distillery  is  carried  on  by  a  company.  The  whisky 
made  is  chiefly  sent  to  the  London  market.  Fire-bricks,  and  a  ht- 
tle  magnesia  are  also  exported  ;  but  there  are  no  import  or  export 
merchants  in  the  proper  sense  of  the  word.  There  are  two  villa- 
p-es.  North  Ferry  and  Hillend.  . 

Means  of  Communication.-There  is  in  the  burgh  a  principal 
or  assorting  post-office,  from  which  bags  are  daily  dispatched 


INVERKEITHING. 


245 


to  the  neighbouring  places  and  chief  towns.  At  about  a  mile  from 
the  North  Ferry  the  main  road  sends  branches  to  Torryburn, 
Dunfermline,  and  Kirkakly,  respectively  running  nearly  three, 
and  two  miles  through  the  parish, — the  great  north  road  from 
which  these  strike  off  extending  through  it  for  six  miles.  There 
are  two  four-horse  coaches,  which  run  every  lawful  day  from  Edin- 
burgh through  the  burgh,  one  to  Perth,  and  the  other  to  Aberdeen, 
besides  the  mail  daily.  There  are  two  two-horse  coaches  between 
Dunfermline  and  Edinburgh,  which  pass  within  a  little  distance  of 
the  burgh.  There  is  also  an  easy  communication  from  North 
Ferry  by  several  steam-boats  to  Leith,  Stirling,  and  intermedi- 
ate ports.  The  bridges  in  the  parish  are  small,  the  streams  be- 
ing of  a  trifling  description.  The  fences  on  the  sides  of  the  pub- 
lic roads  in  several  places  are  certainly  not  the  best  in  the  parish. 
There  is  an  iron  rail-road,  made  about  twenty-five  years  ago,  re- 
placing a  wooden  one  of  a  much  older  date,  used  for  conveying 
coals  from  Halbeath,  and  stone  to  be  shipped  at  the  harbour. 
The  length  of  it  is  five  miles,  one  of  which  is  within  the  parish, 
and  three  upon  the  very  boundary  between  it  and  that  of  Dun- 
fermline. The  harbour  is  a  pretty  good  one,  and  may  be  greatly 
improved  and  deepened  by  the  removal  of  the  mud.  Vessels  of 
200  tons  burden  can  load  and  sail  from  it  at  the  spring-tides ;  but 
it  is  generally  frequented  by  smaller  vessels. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  situated  in  the  middle 
of  the  burgh.  The  town  population  are  all  within  five  minutes  walk 
of  it,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  country  people  within  two  miles  ; 
about  an  hundred  may  be  farther  distant ;  but  none  farther  than 
three  miles  except  the  inhabitants  of  one  family  in  a  small  cottage. 
It  was  built  in  1826,  replacing  the  one  which  was  partly  burnt 
the  year  before,  and  is  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  No  benefac- 
tions are  on  record.  The  church  has  a  handsome  appearance, 
commodious  and  elegant  within,  and  ornamented  with  two  rows 
of  pillars  running  through  it,  having  arches  in  the  style  of  a 
Gothic  cathedral.  There  is  a  very  old  steeple  adjoining  the 
west  end  of  it,  containing  a  large  bell  and  a  public  clock.  The 
building  accommodates  nearly  a  thousand  persons.  It  has  only  one 
gallery,  opposite  the  pulpit,  which  is  allotted  to  the  magistrates  and 
council,  and  four  of  the  principal  heritors  ;  but,  by  the  erection  of 
side  galleries,  which  the  heritors  have  pledged  themselves  to  exe- 
cute when  necessary,  it  would  contain  about  three  hundred  more, 
— almost  the  amount  of  accommodation  legally  required  for  the 


246 


PIFESHIRE. 


whole  population  of  the  parish.    Nearly  the  whole  of  the  sittings 
are  free.    Two-thirds  of  them  belong  to  the  landward  heritors, 
who  give  the  use  of  them  to  their  tenants  and  their  servants,  and 
many  others.    The  other  third  belongs  to  the  burgh,  for  the  use 
of  the  inhabitants.    An  attempt  was  made  to  let  those  of  the 
burgh,  but  so  ill  did  it  succeed,  that,  in  the  Treasurer's  printed 
accounts  for  1834,  the  sum  received  for  seat  rents,  "is  stated  to 
be  7s."    In  the  meantime,  the  people  occupy  these  seats  with- 
out ceremony.   The  manse  was  built  in  1798,  and  has  attached  to 
it  the  usual  legal  accommodations,  a  barn,  stable,  byre,  and  wash- 
ing-house.    The  garden  wall  is  six  feet  high,  with  a  coping. 
There  was  no  manse  before  that  date,  but  only  an  allowance  of 
L.  40  Scots  paid  for  house  rent.    There  was  a  small  manse  of 
a  "  but  and  a  ben"  in  the  parish  of  Rosyth,  which  was  pulled  down 
about  thirty  years  ago,— and  at  that  place  there  are  still  the  ruinous 
walls  of  the  church  and  a  considerable  space  of  burying-ground, 
around  it.  There  are  two  glebes,— one  for  each  of  the  united  parish- 
es.  They  originally  consisted  of  about  8  acres,  but  when  excambed 
about  twenty  years  ago,  a  greater  quantity  was  given  on  account 
of  the  ground"  being  inferior  in  quality,  so  that,  including  the  grass 
ground,  the  glebe  now  amounts  to  12^  acres,  and  might  rent  for 
about  L.  40.  The  stipend  has  been  thrice  augmented  since  1792 ; 
the  last  was  in  1823,  and  is  now  seventeen  chalders,  half  meal, 
and  half  barley,  convertible  at  the  county  fiars,  with  L.  10  money 
for  communion  elements.  It  is  understood  that  the  free  teinds  are 
nearly  exhausted.    There  is  a  dissenting  meeting-house  in  the 
town,  belonging  to  the  United  Associate  Synod.   The  stipend  of 
the  minister  is  L.  130,  paid  from  the  seat  rents,  together  with 
a  house,  garden,  and  small  grass  park.    The  patronage  of  the 
parish  is  held  by  Lady  Baird  Preston,  relict  of  General  Sir  Da- 
vid Baird,  Baronet.    The  number  of  famihes  belonging  to  the 
Establishment,  according  to  the  minister's  visitation  list,  is  about 
400,  containing  about  1625  persons,— the  usual  proportion  of  whom 
attend  public  worship  in  the  church.    The  communicants  are  ge- 
nerally about  400.   The  number  of  persons  in  connection  with  the 
dissenters  residing  within  the  parish  is,  according  to  a  list  of  the  late 
incumbent,  about  1125.  The  ministers  and  the  people,  both  of  the 
Established  and  the  Dissenting  churches,  maintain  a  friendly  in- 
tercourse with  each  other,  and  show  a  good  feeling  and  a  Christian 
spirit.    The  people  in  their  generar  character  are  industrious  and 
active,  peaceable  and  contented,  well  affected,  and  much  attached 


INVERKEITIIING. 


247 


to  their  ministers,  and  attend  duly  upon  the  public  ordinances 
of  religion.  That  are  some  Penny  a-week  Societies  for  mis- 
sionary and  religious  purposes ;  and  there  are  occasional  collec- 
tions made  at  the  church  door  for  Highland  Schools,  the  India 
Mission,  and  other  similar  objects. 

Education. — There  is  a  parochial  school,  in  which  are  taught 
English,  writing,  arithmetic,  Latin,  Greek,  French,  geography, 
mathematics,  &c.  The  teacher  has  the  maximum  salary ;  there 
is  a  good  dwelling-house,  and  an  elegant  adjacent  school-house. 
The  school  fees  may  amount  to  about  L.  70.  There  are  six  pri- 
vate schools,  in  which  the  ordinary  branches  of  education  are  taught, 
and  in  which  the  teachers  are  supported  by  the  school  fees  alone. 
One  is  a  female  school  for  the  higher  and  ornamental  branches  of 
education.  There  is  also  a  Sabbath  day  school,  which  meets  both 
before  and  after  public  worship,  and  is  supported  by  subscriptions 
and  collections,  and  attended  by  numerous  scholars.  The  expense 
of  education  is  moderate,  being  per  quarter  3s.  for  English  ;  4s. 
for  English  and  writing;  5s.  for  arithmetic ;  7s.  for  Latin ;  and  the 
same  for  French.  The  number  of  scholars  attending  all  these 
schools  is  very  nearly  400. 

Literature. — There  are  three  libraries, — a  subscription,  a  circu- 
lating, and  a  congregational  one  belonging  to  the  dissenters,  but 
none  of  them  contain  any  great  number  of  books. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  number  of  poor  receiving  pa- 
rochial aid  belonging  to  the  Established  Church,  was,  during  last 
year  (1835)  43.  The  accounts  of  the  current  year  cannot  be 
made  up,  until  the  end  of  it.  The  allowances  given  them  vary 
from  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  per  week,  proportioned  according  to  their 
wants.  The  collections  at  the  church  door  are  upon  an  average, 
L.  20  annually,  and  the  subscription  or  assessment  upon  the  heri- 
tors for  the  year  above-mentioned  was  L.  110,  out  of  which  there 
are  L.  10  given  to  the  dissenters  in  aid  of  their  paupers.  There 
are  some  small  salaries  paid  to  clerks,  and  church-oflicers.  The 
heritors  pay  according  to  their  valued  rents. 

Prisons. — The  jail  is  by  no  means  secure, — several  escapes  have 
been  made  from  it.  Excepting  a  vagrant  or  rioter  upon  the  streets, 
and  that  for  a  night,  incarceration  in  this  prison  is  a  rare  event. 
It  is  superintended  by  one  of  the  town-officers. 

Fairs. — There  are  5  fairs  appointed  to  be  held  in  this  burgh, 
which  were  once  well  attended  by  dealers  in  horses,  cattle,  and 
merchant's  goods ;  but  they  are  now  merely  nominal,  no  business 


248 


FIFESHIRE. 


being  done.  There  is,  however,  one  upon  the  first  week  of  Au- 
gust, which  is  frequented  in  the  afternoon  by  numbers  of  people 
from  the  country  districts.  There  being  a  horse  and  a  foot  race 
for  small  prizes  given  from  the  funds  of  the  burgh,  there  is  abund- 
ance of  gingerbread  and  sweetmeats  for  sale,  as  well  as  drink,  with 
many  of  which  the  Y>eople  regale  themselves  and  their  friends  in 
the  public  houses  in  the  evening. 

Inns. — Including  the  back  shops  of  grocers,  there  are  '23 
houses  in  the  burgh  where  spirits  may  be  bought  in  small 
quantities,  and  drunk  upon  the  premises.  Two  of  them  only  are 
inns  for  the  reception  and  entertainment  of  travellers.  In  the 
North  Ferry,  there  are  13  such  places,  including  the  great  inn, 
and  a  secondary  one,  and  in  the  rest  of  the  parish  there  are  three, 
making  in  all  30  ;  but  some  of  these  are  required  to  accommodate 
passengers  at  North  Ferry,  and  travellers  upon  the  public  road  . 
from  Edinburgh  to  Perth  and  Inverness. 

Fuel — The  fuel  is  coal  of  various  kinds,  procured  from  diffe- 
rent pits,  and  at  the  distance  of  from  four  to  seven  miles  from  the 
burgh.    The  price,  including  carriage,  may  be  from  5s.  to  9s.  per 
ton,  according  to  the  quality  and  distance  from  the  coUiery. 
Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Since  the  Statistical  Account  in  1793  was  published,  a  remark- 
able difference  has  taken  place  in  the  parish.  The  state  of  agricul- 
ture has  been  greatly  advanced,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the 
town  much  improved.   It  is  rather  against  the  interest  of  the  burgh, 
that  none  of  the  great  heritors  reside  within  the  parish.    The  place 
is  favourable  for  carrying  on  manufactories  of  various  kinds,  hav- 
ing numerous  facilities,— yet  no  person  of  capital  and  enterprise 
has  ever  engaged  in  trade  or  commerce  upon  a  large  and  exten- 
sive scale.    There  used  to  be  some  years  ago,  strong  political  con- 
tests in  the  burgh,  which  frequently  led  the  parties  to  the  Court 
of  Session,  and  when  these  regarded  the  election  of  a  Member  of 
Parliament,  they  were  sometimes  carried  to  the  House  of  Commons. 
This  arose  from  the  very  peculiar  set  of  the  burgh.  The  members 
of  council  continued  in  office  during  life  and  residence,  and  the 
minority  could  not  be  turned  out,  and  their  places  filled  up  with 
more  friendly  adherents.    The  struggle  between  the  parties  was 
thus  kept  up,  and  maintained  with  much  activity  and  contentious- 
ness.   It  is  recorded  in  the  session  books,  in  1720,  "  that  the 
kirk-session  unanimously  twice  postponed,  and  finally  omitted  the 
celebration  of  the  sacrament  at  that  time,"  «  on  account  of  the 
great  animositie  and  disagreement  that  is  in  the  place."  Several 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


249 


instances  could  be  given  at  a  latter  period  of  the  same  political 
and  contentious  spirit.  Matters  are  now  more  quietly  and  peace- 
ably managed.  The  burgh  and  parliamentary  elections  excite  no 
great  interest  among  the  inhabitants. 

November  1836. 


PARISH  OF  AUCHTERTOOL. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE^ 

THE  REV.  DAVID  GUILD,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — Auchter  is  said  to  be  a  Gaelic  word,  signifying  a  height, 
and  Tool  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  Tiel,  a  rivulet  which  rises  in 
the  parish  and  runs  through  it ;  hence  Auchtertool  signifies  the 
higher  grounds  on  the  Tiel.  It  does  not  appear  that  its  name  has 
any  alteration  from  that  originally  given  it. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  parish  is  about  3  miles  long, 
and  about  11  wide  on  the  average,  comprising  4  square  miles, 
equal  to  2570  imperial  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
parish  of  Auchterderran ;  on  the  north-west,  by  the  parish  of 
Beath ;  on  the  south,  by  the  parishes  of  Kinghorn,  Burntisland, 
and  Aberdour ;  on  the  east  and  north-east,  it  is  at  some  points 
conterminous  with  the  parishes  of  Kinghorn  and  Abbotshall. 

Topographical  Appearances.— lis  figure  is  irregular,  but  ap- 
proaches nearer  to  that  of  a  parallelogram  than  any  other  regular 
figure.  There  is  a  range  of  hills  at  the  west  end  of  the  parish, 
commonly  called  CuUalo  hills;  their  acclivity  on  the  south  side  is 
very  steep,  and  the  elevation  of  the  highest  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  is  750  feet.  In  regard  to  each  other,  the  difference  of  eleva- 
tion is  inconsiderable. 

The  climate  is  temperate  and  salubrious.  The  dryness  of  the 
soil  throughout  the  most  populous  part  of  the  parish,  its  moderate 
distance  from  the  sea,  and  its  elevation  above  it,  must  naturally 
contribute  to  its  salubrity,  and  to  the  healthiness  of  its  inhabitants. 

Hydrograph7j.~T\\eve  are  springs  by  which  the  inhabitants  of 
this  parish  are  abundantly  supplied  with  water;  some  of  these  are 


250 


FIFESHIUE. 


intermittent ;  but  generally  they  are  perennial.  The  former  being 
produced  by  the  excess  of  surface  water,  are  commonly  impure,  and 
the  water  of  course  fit  for  few  purposes;  but  the  latter  are  sufficiently 
numerous  and  copious  for  the  accommodation  and  comfort  of  the  in- 
habitants. Some  of  these  seem  to  flow  from  freestone,  others  from 
whinstone.  There  are  no  mineral  springs  in  the  parish.  There  is 
not  a  river  ;  but  there  are  several  perennial  streams  of  water,  which 
run  through  the  parish,  one  of  which  runs  into  Camilla-loch,  situ- 
ated near  the  east  end  of  the  parish.  The  loch  derives  its  name 
Camilla  from  the  old  house  of  Camilla,  anciently  called  Hallyards, 
belonging  to  the  family  of  the  Skenes;  but  acquired  the  name  of 
Camilla  from  the  residence  of  one  of  the  Countesses  of  Moray, 
whose  name  was  Campbell.  It  contains  perch,  pike,  and  eels.  Its 
surface  extends  to  18  acres ;  its  greatest  depth  is  22  feet.  The  site 
of  the  loch  is  capable  of  much  ornamental  and  not  unprofitable  im- 
provement. Its  north  side  is  bounded  by  a  steep  eminence  cover- 
ed with  furze,  interspersed  with  spots  of  a  rocky  substance  appear- 
ing through  them,  which  nature  seems  to  have  intended  for  wood 
plantation,  as  it  is  fit  for  nothing  else.  There  are  grounds  scatter- 
ed around  it  of  the  same  description.  These,  covered  with  planta- 
tions, with  the  ruin  of  the  ancient  house  of  Hallyards,  together 
with  remaining  traces  of  old  baronial  style,  adjacent  to  the  loch, 
would  present  to  the  eye  a  romantic  and  interesting  aspect. 

There  are  two  cascades,  one  of  which  is  on  the  boundary  of  the 
south  side  of  the  parish.  There  is  another  contiguous  to  Camil- 
la loch,  at  the  head  of  a  deep  narrow  ravine,  the  sides  of  which 
are  extremely  steep,  rising  in  nearly  a  perpendicular  direction. 
They  consist  of  rugged  rocks  interspersed  with  spots  of  soil,  where 
some  very  rare  plants  are  to  be  found,  and,  accordingly,  it  is  occasion- 
ally the  resort  of  botanists.  The  streams  of  water  which  form  these 
cascades  are  commonly  small ;  but  after  a  heavy  fall  of  rain,  or  ef- 
fectual thaw  of  snow,  they  swell  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Geology  and  Miner alopj.— There  are  freestone,  trap,  or  whin- 
stone,  and  limestone  in  the  parish.  The  first  is  not  in  much  repute, 
and  is  seldom  wrought.  The  second  is  used  chiefly  for  road  metal, 
rarely  for  building.  The  last,  which  is  on  the  property  of  Lord  Moray, 
and  of  Captain  Erskine  Wemyss,  is  wrought  by  their  tenants,  and 
exclusively  for  their  farm  purposes  ;  none  has  ever  been  wrought  for 
sale  In  the  kinds  of  rocks  mentioned  no  species  of  ore  is  found. 
There  are  various  kinds  of  soil  in  the  parish;  the  loamy;  the 
clayey,  partaking  considerably  of  the  nature  of  till;  and  the  mossy. 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


225 


The  first  is  the  most  productive ;  some  parts  of  the  second,  which 
have  been  drained  and  well  cultivated,  are  little  less  fruitful ;  but 
by  far  the  greater  part  of  this  kind,  remaining  in  its  original  wet 
and  sour  state,  is  much  less  productive.  By  far  the  greater  part 
of  the  mossy  is  entire  moss,  and  has  never  been  cultivated:  from 
its  great  depth,  and  the  impracticability  of  draining,  it  seems  in- 
capable of  cultivation.  The  loamy  soil  lies  chiefly  on  the  south 
side  of  the  parish,  where  the  climate  is  best;  the  clayey  and 
mossy  on  the  north  and  west  sides  of  the  parish,  where  the  climate 
is  worse.  The  loamy  soil  varies  from  less  than  a  foot  to  five  feet 
deep.  Its  subsoil  is  what  is  commonly  called  rotten  rock,  which, 
when  trenched  and  exposed  to  the  varieties  of  weather,  is  soon 
converted  into  soil  apparently  of  the  same  kind  with  the  surface. 

Zoology. — There  are  few  species  of  animals  here  which  are  not 
to  be  found  in  the  parishes  bounding  the  north  and  west  sides  of 
this.  The  only  species  here  not  common  to  all  other  parishes, 
are  a  few  grouse  at  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  and  lapwings  much 
more  numerous.  The  heron,  too,  sometimes  makes  its  appearance 
in  winter.  The  live-stock  consists  almost  wholly  of  horses  and 
black-cattle.  Of  the  former,  few  are  purchased ;  almost  the  whole 
of  them  are  bred  and  reared  by  the  farmers,  for  their  farm  pur- 
poses, rarely  for  sale  ;  and  what  are  retained  for  farm -work  are 
kept  in  high  order,  with  full  feeding  and  full  work.  Almost  all 
the  black-cattle  in  the  parish  are  bred  or  reared  in  it ;  few  com- 
paratively are  purchased  for  feeding ;  but  as  most  of  the  farmers 
cannot  have  bred  on  their  farm  as  many  as  are  required  to  be  rear- 
ed for  feeding  and  for  sale,  the  deficiency  is  supplied  by  purchas- 
ing calves  wherever  they  find  them,  in  consequence  of 'which  the 
stock  is  invariably  mixed  ;  but  with  regard  to  what  is  bred  on  the 
farms,  the  greatest  care  and  judgment  are  exercised  to  obtain  the 
best  kind.  The  Fife  breed  is  the  kind  generally  preferred,  and 
sought ;  but  if  that  breed  exists  pure,  it  is  rarely  if  ever  to  be  seen. 
'J  here  are  many  very  good  cows  in  Fife;  but  it  is  doubted  whether 
there  be  a  pure  Fife  cow  in  the  county.  But  though  what  would 
be  preferred  may  not  be  obtained,  yet  the  care  and  skill  in  breed- 
ing the  choicest  kinds  to  be  had,  appears  in  the  value  to  which 
the  animals  are  brought.  One  farmer  has  of  late  years  preferred 
the  Teeswater ;  a  kind  not  known  to  be  bred  or  reared  in  the  pa- 
rish before.  They  came  to  great  value;  some  rising  three  years 
old  have  been  sold  at  L.  20,  when  markets  were  low. 

There  is  only  one  farm  in  the  parish,  on  which  any  sheep 


are 


252 


FIFESHIRE. 


grazed  ;  and  it  is  within  the  last  three  years,  that  these  have  been 
introduced ;  they  are  all  of  the  Cheviot  breed.  About  360  are 
purchased  annually,  about  the  month  of  July,  and  sold  again  at 
dilTerent  times,  according  as  they  advance  to  condition  for  the 
shambles,  till  the  whole  be  sold  off,  to  give  place  for  a  new  lot  at 
the  usual  time  of  purchasing.  They  have  been  found  a  profitable 
species  of  stock.  On  the  farm  alluded  to,  the  number  is  on  the 
increase,  and  though  the  parish  be  rather  adapted  to  corn  growing 
than  grazing,  yet  the  success  of  the  experiment  already  made,  is  so 
decided,  and  so  well  known,  that  that  species  of  stock  is  likely  to 
become  more  numerous  in  the  parish. 

Botany. — There  is  a  great  variety  of  plants,  among  which  the 
rarer  species  are  the  Imperatoria  ostruthium  (at  Camilla  ruins ;) 
Gac/ea  lutea,  Petasites  alhus,  Saxifraga  umbrosa,  Viola  odorata, 
( Auchtertool  Linn.)  A  few  trees,  scattered  throughout  the  parish, 
'  are  to  be  seen,  but  not  the  semblance  of  a  plantation.  However,  as 
that  species  of  improvement  has  lately  advanced  to  the  very  boun- 
daries of  the  parish,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  it  will  not  stop  there. 
There  are  many  places  within  its  bounds  which  invite  the  planter, 
encouraging  him  by  holding  out  to  view  an  improvement  both  pro- 
fitable and  ornamental.  There  is  little  doubt  that  the  capability 
of  these  grounds  will  in  course  draw  the  attention  of  the  Noble  pro- 
prietor, whose  taste,  like  that  of  his  noble  ancestors,  for  both  useful 
and  ornamental  improvements  (particularly  plantation)  is  so  ap- 
parent in  other  parts  of  his  extensive  domains. 

11. — Civil  History. 
Land-owners,— With  the  exception  of  three  portions  of  land 
held  in  feu  from  Lord  Moray,  amounting  to  twenty  acres  or  there- 
about, the  Earl  of  Moray  and  Captain  Erskine  Wemvss  are  the 
only  land-owners  in  the  parish. 

Parochial  Registers.— These  extend  as  far  back  as  1670  ;  but 
till  within  the  last  fifty  or  sixty  years,  they  have  been  very  irregu- 
larly kept.  •  1        .1  f 
Modern  Buildings.— There  are  none  m  the  parish  worthy  ot 
particular  remark.  The  church  and  manse  will  be  noticed  under  the 
head  Ecclesiastical  State.    All  the  other  houses  in  the  parish  are 
of  no  ancient  date,  and  consist  of  farms,  villagers  and  cottagers' 
houses,  and  a  corn  mill,  which  are  all  built  with  stone  and  lime. 
Till  within  the  last  forty  or  fifty  years,  there  was  but  one  house  in 
the  parish  covered  with  blue  slate  ;  the  rest  were  generally  covered 
with  wheat  straw,  a  few  with  tile,  and  one  with  gray  slate.  Most 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


253 


of  the  houses  that  have  been  built  recently  are  covered  with  blue 
slate  or  tile..  The  use  of  thatch  is  almost  universally  relinquished 
in  the  parish. 

III. — Population. 

Population  in  1801,  -  396 

1811,  -  501 

1821,  -  536 

1831,  -  527 

The  only  apparent  probable  cause  of  the  increase  of  popula- 
tion, is  the  progress  of  agricultural  improvement.  By  that  and  the 
increased  attention  to  the  improvement  of  roads,  a  much  greater 
number  of  labourers  is  necessary  for  the  latter,  and  many  more, 
both  of  males  and  females,  are  in  demand  for  the  former  now,  than 
in  former  times,  whose  labour  is  remunerated  with  ample  wages  ; 
and  though  the  price  of  their  labour  does  occasionally  rise  and  fall 
somewhat,  yet  it  is  much  more  steady  and  uniform  than  that  of  the 
labour  of  operatives  in  manufactures.    The  demand  for  country 
labour  too,  scarcely  ever  varies,  if  it  does  not  increase.    But  the 
same  cannot  be  said  of  the  labour  of  operatives  in  manufacturing 
towns.    Formerly  too,  females  were  but  little  employed  in  agri- 
cultural work;  but,  with  the  progress  of  improvement,  the  demand 
for  their  labour  has  increased  so  much  that  every  farmer  pre- 
fers for  his  cottager,  the  man  who  has  daughters  that  will  work  in 
his  field,  for  which  they  are  liberally  paid.    Their  labour  consists 
in  hoeing  potatoes,  in  hoeing  and  hand-weeding  turnips,  and  other 
drilled  crops.    In  harvest  they  are  employed  in  reaping,  and  of 
course  receive  reaper's  wages.    Nor  are  they  without  employment 
in  winter.    They  are  frequently  employed  at  thrashing-mills,  and 
in  pulling  and  preparing  turnips  for  cattle.    It  is  obvious  that,  in 
this  state  of  things,  there  is  a  tendency  to  induce  the  labouring 
classes  of  both  sexes  to  resort  to  country  villages  and  cottar-houses 
for  residence,  where  employment  is  always  to  be  had.    The  rate 
of  wages,  compared  with  the  price  of  grain,  is  always  high,  and  less 
fluctuating  than  in  trade  and  manufactures ;  accordingly  the  num- 
ber of  village  and  cottar-houses  has  been  increasing,  and  latterly 
with  great  rapidity. 

Number  of  persons  residing  in  two  villages,  -  .  404 

in  the  country,  .  _  ]23 

The  yearly  average  of  marriages  for  the  last  7  years,  .  q 

of  births,  .  .  1 1 

No  registers  of  dcatlis. 

The  average  number  of  persons  under  15  years  of  age,        -      .  ]76 

between  15  and  30,     -       -  -  13G 

30  and  50,  -         .  124 

50  and  70,       .  .  69 

upwards  of  70,  -  -  27 

3 


254 


FIFESIIIRE. 


Proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,  2 
Number  of  bachelors  upwards  of  30  years  of  age,  -  -  7 

of  widowers  ...  8 

of  widows,  ^'"^ 
of  unmarried  women  upwards  of  45  years  of  age,  -  24 

of  families,  -  - 

Average  number  of  children  in  each  family,  -  -  3J 

Of  families  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -    _  -  27 

in  trade,  manufacture,  and  handicraft,  -  32 

Number  of  inhabited  houses,  -  -  116 

of  houses  uninhabited,  _  -  C 

No  insane  or  fatuous. 

One  blind,  (the  disease  not  natural,  but  contracted.) 
None  deaf  or  dumb. 

Character,  Sfc.  of  the  People.— The  people'are  without  any  thing 
pecuUar  in  their  manners  or  customs,  and  enjoy,  in  a  reasonable 
degree,  the  comforts  suitable  to  their  respective  places  in  society, 
and  are  moral  and  religious,  regular  in  their  attendance  on  divine 
service,  and  in  their  observance  of  the  ordinances  of  the  gospel. 

During  the  last  three  years,  there  were  4  illegitimate  births  in 
the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — 

According  to  the  best  information  to  which  the  writer  of  this  Account  has  had 
access,  the  number  of  acres  of  standard  imperial  measure  which  are  either 
cultivated,  or  occasionally  in  tiUage,  is  ,    •  ,    ^.  ,    "      .        \  .i 

Number  of  acres  which  never  have  been  cultivated,  and  which  remain  constantly  ^ 
waste  or  in  pasture,  .  •  •   .  '      i  ,       j  j  .„ 

Number  of  acres  that  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  be  added  to 
the  cultivated  land  of  the  parish,  whether  that  land  were  afterwards  to  be  kept 
in  occasional  tillage  or  in  pasture,  .  • 

Rent  of  Land.—kvev'Age  rent  of  arable  land  per  imperial  acre 
in  the  parish  L.  1, 9s. ;  average  rent  of  grazing,  rating  it  at  L.  2,  6s. 
per  cow  or  full-grown  ox,  grazed  for  the  season,  or  10s.  per  sheep, 
grazed  for  the  year,  is,  per  imperial  acre,  L.  1,  3s.  The  real  rent 
of  the  parish  is  L.  '2165. 

Husbandry.— The  rotations  generally  adopted  in  the  parish  are 
as  follows:  viz.  First  rotation,  1.  green  crop;  2.  wheat,  barley, 
or  oats,  with  grass  seeds ;  3.  hay ;  4.  oats.  Second  rotation, 
1.  green  crop;  2.  wheat,  barley,  or  oats,  with  grass  seeds;  3. 
pasture  ;  4.  pasture  ;  5.  oats. 

Rate  of  Labour.— VXoxxghvnen  for  the  year,  L.  12,  with  victuals ; 
labourers  for  the  day  in  summer,  without  victuals,  Is.  8d.  to  2s.  6d., 
in  winter  Is.  6d.  to  2s.;  women's  wages  in  summer  without  vic- 
tuals 9d.  per  day,  in  winter  7d.  In  harvest,  men  with  victuals 
generally  2s.  per  day ;  women  with  victuals  Is.  6d.  per  day, 
Wrights  and  masons  by  the  day,  without  victuals,  in  summer,  3s., 
in  winter,  2s.  to  2s.  6d. 


AUCHTEltTOOL. 


255 


Prices. — The  selling  price,  in  common  years,  of  the  different 
kinds  of  grain  grown  in  the  parish  may  be  rated  as  follows  :  Wheat, 
L.  2,  13s.  lOd. ;  barley,  L.  1,  9s.  lid.;  oats,  L.  J.  2s.  4d.  per  im- 
perial quarter. 

The  average  price  of  different  articles  of  parochial  produce  re- 
quired for  the  purpose  of  domestic  economy. —  Oat-meal  per  im- 
perial stone.  Is.  7-|d. ;  pot  barley,  2d  per  imperial  lb. ;  cheese  made 
of  milk  after  the  cream  is  taken  from  it,  4d.  per  imperial  lb. ;  ditto 
made  with  the  cream  in  it,  6d.  per  imperial  lb. ;  eggs  per  dozen, 
6d. ;  hens  each  Is.  6d.  j  chickens,  7d.  each;  potatoes.  Is.  6d.  per 
bushel. 

Live-Stock. — Of  late  years,  the  farmer's  attention  has  been  turn- 
ed to  the  rearing  and  feeding  of  black-cattle,  much  more  than  in 
former  times,  when  the  price  of  grain  was  higher.  They  find  that 
this  branch  of  husbandry  makes  a  better  return  in  money,  than 
the  growing  of  grain  at  the  low  prices,  during  a  currency  of  years 
past ;  while  it  enriches  the  land,  by  increasing  the  quantity  of  ma- 
nure. Accordingly,  the  growing  of  turnips  and  potatoes  is  now  rnuch 
increased.  Every  farmer  is  desirous  to  have  as  much  land  in  pas- 
ture, and  green  crop,  as  the  nature  and  extent  of  his  farm  will 
allow. 

Till  within  these  last  three  or  four  years,  Httle  had  been  done 
in  draining  and  reclaiming  waste  land.  There  is  but  one  farm  in 
the  parish,  on  which  either  of  these  improvements  has  been  carried 
to  any  considerable  extent.  On  the  farm  alluded  to,  much  has 
been  done  in  both.  The  same  improvements  are  becoming  more 
general  in  the  parish  than  formerly;  but  the  progress  is  slow. 
The  reclaimed  lands  extend  to  40  acres  or  thereby  ;  they  consist 
chiefly  of  eminences  formerly  covered  with  furze,  on  some  parts 
of  which  the  soil  was  extremely  thin.  But  the  nature  of  the  sub- 
soil renders  it  comparatively  easy  to  add  to  its  depth.  The  subsoil 
consists  of  what  is  commonly  called  rotten  rock,  which,  when 
turned  up  by  the  plough,  or  any  other  implement,  (though  in 
pieces  similar  to  that  of  road  metal,)  is  soon  reduced  by  the  va- 
rieties of  weather,  and  converted  into  fertile  soil.  Where  the 
plough  may  not  be  convenient  and  efficient,  the  pick  and  spade 
can  be  used  with  complete  success;  and  the  labour,  though  more 
expensive,  will  still  be  profitable.  In  this  way,  the  thin  soil  on  the 
tops  of  knolls,  in  which  some  fields  in  the  parish  abound,  might 
be  deepened  at  a  cost  which  the  improvement  would  amply  repay. 
The  present  manse  garden  was  made  of  a  piece  of  ground  where 
the  average  depth  of  soil  did  not  exceed  two  inches.     It  was 


256 


FIFESHIRE. 


trenched  with  the  pick  and  the  spade,  planted  with  potatoes  the 
subsequent  spring,  the  crop  of  which  repaid  the  outlay;  and  now 
it  is  excellent  garden  ground. 

On  the  farm  alluded  to,  draining  also  has  been  carried  to  con- 
siderable extent,  and  is  still  progressing.  Surface  draining  is  the 
kind  appropriate  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  there,  and  also  to  the 
chief  portion  of  land  in  the  parish,  where  draining  is  necessary. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  parish  it  consists  chiefly  of  clay  or  till, — 
on  some  parts,  with  a  thin  surface  of  softer  mould.  Of  course,  the 
efficiency  of  the  drains  depends  much  on  their  closeness  to  one 
another.  Till  of  late,  that  method  of  draining  seems  to  have  been 
little  understood  in  the  parish,  as  it  has  been  resorted  to  only  re- 
cently, and  there  remains  great  scope  for  the  extension  of  that  im- 
provement. 

Leases. — The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years.  In 
most  if  not  in  all  cases,  it  would  be  advantageous  both  to  proprie- 
tor and  tenant,  to  have  the  leases  extended  a  few  years  longer.  It 
would  give  greater  encouragement  to  the  tenant  to  lay  out  capital 
on  permanent  improvement,  by  holding  out  to  his  view  a  more  cer- 
tain prospect  of  remuneration  for  that  outlay.  The  nature  and 
condition  of  the  farm,  the  nature  and  extent  of  the  improvement 
it  needs,  and  of  which  it  is  capable,  ought  to  determine  the  length 
of  the  lease. 

Farm-Buildings  and  Inclosures.—Wiih  the  exception  of  one, 
every  farm  in  the  parish  is  accommodated  with  buildings  adequate 
to  its  value  and  extent,  and  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  The  same 
cannot  be  said  of  farm  inclosures. 

The  parish  is  almost  all  inclosed,  partly  with  stone  dikes,  and 
partly  with  thorn  hedges.    Part  of  the  former  is  new  and  substan- 
tial, the  rest  is  less  sufficient.    As  to  the  hedges,  there  is  not  an 
enclosure  sufficiently  fenced,  where  a  hedge  is  the  fence.    This  is 
owing  to  the  very  general  inattention  to  the  proper  method  of  plant- 
ing and  training,  together  with  the  no  less  frequent  neglect  of 
cleaning.     Instead  of  the  plants  being  assorted,  and  the  weak 
planted  apart  from  the  strong,  they  are  mixed  together,  and  thus 
the  former  are  hurt  and  kept  down  by  the  more  vigorous  growth 
of  the  latter.    In  training,  too,  instead  of  cutting  only  the  lateral 
growth  till  the  hedge  has  advanced  to  the  height  at  which  it  is  in- 
tended to  remain,  the  top  is  cut  as  often  as  the  sides  ;  and  in  this 
way  the  hedge  is  converted  into  a  thicket  of  small  twigs,  without 
stamina  sufficient  to  resist  the  force  of  cattle  attempting  to  pene- 
trate through  it.    Cleaning,  too,  is  seldom  sufficiently  attended  to ; 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


257 


and  from  these  causes,  together  with  the  various  accidents  to  which 
hedges  are  liable,  there  is  not  a  field  in  the  parish  sufficiently  in- 
closed where  a  hedge  is  the  fence.  In  all  cases,  to  mend  a  hedge 
is  difficult ;  but  throughout  this  parish  the  hedges,  in  many  parts, 
are  so  far  gone,  that  to  reclaim  them  effectually  is  impracticable. 

(Quarries. —  There  are  several  whinstone  quarries  opened  in 
the  parish,  for  metal  to  the  turnpike  and  other  roads  ;  also  a  free- 
stone quarry,  used  sometimes  for  building  village  and  other  cottar 
houses.  The  stone  is  of  inferior  quality,  and  is  never  wrought 
for  sale.  There  is  a  limestone  quarry  on  Lord  Moray's  ground ; 
also  one  on  Captain  Erskine  Wemyss's  property,  which  the  tenants 
are  permitted  to  work  for  farm  purposes  exclusively;  none  is 
wrought  for  sale. 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  exhibited  under  the 
following  heads : 

Produce  of  grain  of  aU  kinds,  wliether  cultivated  for  food  of  man,  or  domes- 
tic annuals,  .  .  .  _  _  J.    .  . 
Of  potatoes  and  turnips,              .              _              .              _  '  ojo^ 
Of  hay,  both  cultivated  and  meadow,           .              .  J200 
Of  land  in  pasture,  rating  it  at  L.  2,  6s.  for  cow  or  fuU  grown  ox,  or  sheep 

at  10s.  pastured  tor  the  year,  .  .  .  *  nmi 

Of  cottagers  and  villagers  gardens,  -  .  '.  ^ 

Total  yearly  value,  L.  9262 

Manufactures.— The  only  thing  in  the  parish  that  may  be  con- 
sidered as  allied  to  manufactures,  is  an  extensive  brewery  in  the 
village  of  Auchtertool,  which  has  been  long  in  good  repute  for  its 
ales,  porter,  and  table-beer.  It  supplies  private  families,  inns,  and 
alehouses  in  various  places,  but  the  greater  part  of  its  ales  are 
usually  shipped  at  Kirkaldy  for  London. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Market-Town.— KxvUU^  is  five  miles  distant  from  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  where  an  excellent  grain  stock-market  is  held  every 
Saturday;  a  cattle-market  thrice  a-year,  and  a  weekly  market  for 
butter  and  cheese. 

Villages.— There  are  two  villages  in  the  parish,  Auchtertool  and 
Newbiggmg,  the  former  containing  a  population  of  329,  the  lat- 
ter of  75. 

Means  of  Communication.— There  is  no  post-office  in  the  pa- 
rish, nor  does  any  post-office  runner  pass  within  five  miles  of  its 
boundanes,-anmconvenience  very  much  felt.  However,  there  are 
other  means  of  communication  which  the  parish  enjoys.  L  The 
turnpike   road  between  Kirkaldy  and  Dunfermline  runs  rather 

FIFE. 


258 


FIFESIIIRE. 


more  than  three  miles  through  the  parish,  and  through  the  most 
populous  part  of  it— the  two  villages.  About  six  years  ago,  a  coach 
commenced  running  between  Kirkaldy  and  Glasgow  on  that  road, 
leaving  Kirkaldy  at  half  an  hour  past  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  m 
summer,  at  seven  in  winter,  and  returning  in  the  afternoon  about 
six  o'clock. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  situation  of  the  church,- with  reference 
to  the  boundaries  of  the  parish,  is  central,  but  inconvenient  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  population.  The  villages,  which  contain  by 
far  the  greater  part  of  it,  are  a  mile  distant  from  the  church.  In 
1833,  it  was  thoroughly  repaired,  and  much  improved.  Its  m- 
terior  is  finished  in  a  plain,  but  neat  style.  It  affords  accommo- 
dation for  280  sitters,  and  the  sittings  are  all  free. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1812  in  the  cottage  style,  and  of  Gothic 
architecture.  It  is  substantially  built,  handsomely  finished,  and 
affords  sufficient  accommodation.  The  plan  was  furnished  by  Mr 
Gillespie  Graham,  architect. 

The  glebe,  including  the  site  of  the  manse  and  the  garden,  con- 
tains six  imperial  acres  or  thereby,  of  good  dry  arable  land.  The 
money  rent,  together  with  the  value  of  services  performed  by  the 
tenant,  is  equal  to  L.  ^  5s.  per  imperial  acre.  There  is  no  grass 
glebe.  The  stipend  is  the  minimum,  the  funds  are  exhausted,  and 
the  sum  of  L.  81,  9s.  is  paid  annually  from  the  Exchequer,  to  make 
up  the  stipend  to  L.  150. 

The  number  of  families  attending  the  Established  Church,  92  ; 
number  of  families  attending  the  chapels  of  dissenters  and  seceders 
•->3  The  younger  branches  of  two  of  these  families  attend  the 
Established  Church.  Divine  service  at  the  Established  Church 
is  generally  well  attended.  The  average  number  of  communi- 
cants there  is  185.  The  average  amount  of  church  collections  yearly 
for  religious  and  charitable  purposes,  L.  12,  14s. 

Mucation.-Theve  are  3  schools  in  the  parish  ;-the  parochial 
school,  a  private  school,  and  an  infant  school.  The  branches  ot 
instruction  taught  in  the  parochial  school  are,  reading,  English, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  Greek  and  Latin  are  very  rarely  requir- 
ed The  branches  taught  in  the  private  school,  are  the  same  as 
in  the  parochial  school.  In  the  inftxnt  school,  are  taught  reading 
Enffhsh,  writing,  arithmetic,  needle-work,  and  knitting.  1  he 
salary  of  the  parochial  schoolmaster  is  L.  29,  18s.  lOd.  The 
teacher  of  the  private  school  receives  a  gratuity  of  L.  15  i^er  an- 
num from  Miss  Boswell  of  Balmuto,  at  whose  expense  he  is  lui- 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


259 


nished  with  a  school-room  also.  The  infant  school  is  taught  by 
a  female,  and  admits  girls  only  between  two  and  six  years  old.  The 
teacher  receives  from  Miss  Boswell  of  Balmuto  L.  20  per  annum, 
together  with  a  dwelling-house,  small  garden,  and  school-room. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  the  legal  accommodations,  dwel- 
ling house,  school-room,  and  garden. 

The  rates  of  school  fees  are,  per  quarter,  reading  English,  2s.  ; 
reading  English  and  writing,  2s.  6d. ;  arithmetic  and  writing,  3s. 
Latin,  5s.  The  cost  of  books,  stationery,  &c.  is  commonly  nearly 
equal  to  the  fee. 

There  are  no  young  persons  in  the  parish  betwixt  six  and  fifteen 
years  of  age  who  cannot  read;  and  none  upwards  of  fifteen  years  of 
age  who  can  neither  read  nor  write.  The  people  in  general  duly 
appreciate  the  benefits  of  education,  and  parents  in  particular  feel 
deep  interest  in  the  education  of  their  children.  This  appears'  in 
the  average  amount  of  children  attending  the  three  schools  in  the 
parish,  150.  .  -  ^.f;?^ 

Literature, — There  is  a  parish  library  in  the  village  of  Auch- 
tertool,  estabhshed  in  March  1824.  It  was  established  and  books 
purchased,  with  contributions  from  the  families  of  Donibristle  and 
Balmuto,  and-  from  the  minister  of  the  parish.  The  library,  and 
all  its  concerns,  are  under  the  direction  of  such  of  these  original 
contributors  as  choose  to  attend  to  it,  whether  one  or  more.  The 
library  is  now  furnished  with  215  volumes,  consisting  of  history, 
travels,  voyages,  and  books  on  moral  and  religious  subjects.- 

Savings-Bank. — A  savings-bank  was  established  in  the  year  1827. 
The  following  is  a  tabular  view  of  the  sums  invested  yearly,  com- 
pared with  the  sums  annually  withdrawn,^  the  last  seven  years. 

Years.  Deposited.  Withdrawn. 

1830,  L.37  13    6         L.  78    8  9 

1831,  56  8  10  39  13  6 

1832,  77  10  10  15  9  !> 

1833,  35  8  7  106  3  10 
!834,  82  5  10  72  7  5 

1835,  99  18    3  44  13  II 

1836,  148    3    0  95  10  7 
15alai:ce  remaining  in  the  bank  at  this  time,  L.  267,  17s.  7(1. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  greater  part  of  the  above  deposits 
belongs  not  to  that  class,  for  whose  benefit  saving  banks  have  been 
established,  viz.  house-servants,  day  labourers  and  others,  who  have 
not  means  to  enable  them  to  deposit  such  sums  as  ordinary  banks 
will  receive ;  but  who  may  deposit  in  the  savings  bank  small  sums  ■ 
down  to  Is.  which  may  well  be  spared  from  ample  wages  well  paid; 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds, —  There  has  never  been  an  instance-' 


260 


FIFESIIIRE. 


of  public  begging  in  the  parish.    The  poor  derive  their  aid  from 
the  parish  funds.    Four  years  ago  the  number  receiving  parochial 
aid  was  6.    Since  that  date,  it  has  never  been  less,  and  now  it 
amounts  to  9.    To  most  of  the  number,  the  monthly  allowance  also 
is  increased.    There  is  usually  some  difference  in  the  several  al- 
lowances, but  their  average  at  present  is  3s.  per  month  to  each 
pauper.    Six  of  the  nine  enjoy,  together  with  their  money  allow- 
ance, free  apartments  in  houses  belonging  to  the  kirk-session  for 
behoof  of  the  poor,  with  a  small  portion  of  garden  ground  attach- 
ed to  each.    Two  old  persons  who  have  no  money  allowances  en- 
joy the  same  privilege.    The  paupers,  and  also  a  few  poor  house- 
holders, receive  annually  in  winter,  at  the  cost  of  the  parish  funds, 
as  many  coals  as  two  farmer's  horses  can  draw  in  a  cart,  which  the 
farmers  very  cheerfully  drive  gratis.    The  value  of  each  cartful, 
at  the  present  high  rate  of  coals  (driving  included)  may  be  stated 

at  9s.  6d.  or  10s. 

The  yearly  amount  of  monthly  allowances  and  of  cost  of  coals 
distributed,  is  L.  18,  16s.  6d.  The  sources  from  whence  funds  are 
derived  to  meet  that  expenditure,  are  various ;  and  the  followmg 
is  a  statement  of  their  variety  and  amount.    The  annual  average 
amount  of  church  door  collections  L.  12,  14s ;  mortcloth  dues, 
L.  2,  10s;  rent  of  two  houses,  L.  4,  10s  ;  interest  of  money, 
L.4,  5s.    The  income  apparently  exceeds  the  expenditure,  as 
from  the  above  statement  there  appears  an  annual  surplus  of  L.  5, 
2s.  6d.    That  surplus  is  exhausted  by  precentors  and  session- 
clerks'  fees,  and  dues  to  synod  and  presbytery  Clerk.  Hitherto 
the  poor  have  been  supported  by  these  resources.    The  heritors 
have  never  been  called  on  for  the  aid  of  assessment.    How  long 
this  state  of  things  may  continue,  it  is  not  easy  to  say.    Times  were, 
when  parochial  relief  was  considered  as  degrading  to  name  and 
character ;  but  these  times  are  gone,  and  the  noble  Scottish  spirit 
of  independence  seems  to  have  gone  with  them.  In  the  minds  ot 
many,  the  idea  of  degradation  is  never  associated  with  the  idea  of 
parochial  relief.    They  consider  it  as  an  heritage  not  discreditable, 
and  bring  forward  their  claims  with  a  boldness  that  would  better 
become  a  creditor  demanding  payment  of  a  just  debt. 

Inns  and  Alehouses.— There  are  no  inns,  but  six  ale-houses  in 
the  village  of  Auchtertool,  certainly  unfavourable  to  the  morals  ol 

the  people.  .       ,       •  ♦ 

jp^eZ— The  only  kind  of  fuel  used  in  the  parish  is  coal,  it  is  to 
be  had  at  four  places,  each  about  four  miles  distant  from  the  vil- 


AUCHTERTOOL.  261 

lage  of  Auclitertool.  One  of  these  Collieries  belongs  to  Lord  Mo- 
ray, from  which,  and  from  collieries  in  the  parish  of  Auchterderran, 
this  parish  is  supplied.  The  price  of  coal  is  now  advanced  to  a  very 
high  rate.  The  former  Statistical  Account  states  that  the  price  of 
as  many  as  two  horses  could  draw  easily  in  a  cart,  was  then  Is.  6d. 
and  the  same  for  driving  them  home.  The  same  quantity  of  best 
coal  now,  driving  included,  costs  6s.  7d,;  and  of  inferior  coal,  5s.  8d. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
The  agricultural  state  of-  the  parish  now  is  very  different  from 
what  it  was  at  the  date  of  the  former  Statistical  Account.  Im- 
provement by  draining  and  reclaiming  waste  land,  was  then  scarce- 
ly visible  in  the  parish.  The  implements  of  agriculture,  particu- 
larly the  plough,  is  much  improved.  The  iron  plough  is  general- 
ly used ;  emulation  prevails  among  the  ploughmen ;  the  natural 
effects  of  which  are  visible  in  the  state  of  the  land,  when  it  receives 
the  seed,  and  in  the  progress  of  its  growth  till  the  crop  be  reaped. 
In  few  places,  is  foulness  amongst  the  crops  to  be  seen  at  any  stage 
of  their  progress. 

To  that  improved  state  of  cultivation,  the  extension  of  green 
crop  has  contributed  not  a  little;  which  of  late  years  has  been  ren- 
dered practicable  to  a  greater  extent,  by  the  introduction  of  bone- 
dust.  It  is  particularly  well  adapted  to  turnip  crops,  which  en- 
ables the  farmer  to  transfer  the  quantity  of  common  manure,  for-  , 
merly  required  for  turnip,  to  land  for  raising  potatoes.  From  20 
to.  30  acres  of  turnips  are  annually  raised  with  bone-dust,  which 
may  be  supposed  to  increase  to  that  extent  the  number  of  acres 
of  green  crop. 

After  the  grain  crops  are  ready  for  the  barn,  the  use  of  thrash- 
ing-mills makes  the  preparation  for  the  market  speedy  and  easy. 
That  useful  piece  of  machinery  saves  much  time  and  labour,  which 
of  course  is  beneficially  made  over  to  other  work ;  and  when  any 
casualty  occurs  unexpectedly,  requiring  grain  to  be  sent  to  market, 
It  IS  m  the  power  of  the  farmer  to  accommodate  to  the  case;— within 
a  few  hours  after  warning,  he  can  have  prepared  an  ample  stock 
tor  market  on  the  following  day.  At  the  date  of  the  last  Statis- 
tical Account,  there  was  but  one  thrashing-mill  in  the  parish  ;  now 
they  are  in  general  use;  one  of  them  is  wrought  by  steam  power 

But  though  agricultural  improvement  be  strikingly  obvious  in 
most  parts  of  the  parish,  and  some  advance  apparent  in  the  rest, 
there  is  still  considerable  scope  for  its  further  progress.  In  some 
places,  fences  need  to  be  mended,  in  other  places  renewed,  and  many 


262 


FIFESHIRIi. 


.acres  require  to  be  drained.    While  these  remain  without  drams, 
probably  the  use  of  the  trench-plough  would  be  beneficial.  The 
soil  is  clay  and  till,  and,  if  not  broken  and  opened  by  some  imple- 
ment, is  quite  impervious  to  water.    Of  course  the  surface  water 
subsides  no  deeper  than  the  common  plough  furrow ;  there  it  rests 
at  the  roots  of  the  grain  plants,  by  which  their  growth  is  imped- 
ed, and  their  fruitfulness  diminished.    But  if  the  impervious  soil 
below  the  ordinary  furrow  were  opened  and  broken  by  the  trench- 
plough,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  water  would  subside  to  the 
bottom  of  its  furrows,  and  the  roots  would  in  some  measure  be  re- 
lieved from  the  pernicious  effects  they  had  been  previously  suffer- 
ino-.    The  use  of  the  same  implement  would  be  no  less  beneficial 
to°the  dry  lands ;  it  would  give  fresh  vigour  and  fertility  by  turn- 
ing up  soil  which  had  been  years  at  rest.    In  some  places  too, 
where  there  is  want  of  sufficient  depth  of  soil,  a  considerable  ad- 
dition would  be  acquired  from  the  subsoil,  consisting  of  what  is 
commonly  called  rotten  rock ;  which,  when  turned  up  and  expos- 
ed to  the  air,  the  varieties  of  weather, — wet  and  dry,  soon  pul- 
verise and  convert  into  fertile  soil.     The  period  within  which 
and  the  places  where  the  plough  is  to  be  applied,  the  rotation  of 
crops  must  in  a  great  measure  regulate  ;  and  by  considering  and 
having  respect  to  the  rotation,  the  judicious  farmer  will  be  quali- 
fied to  lay  down  a  proper  rule  for  himself,  with  regard  both  to 
the  periods  and  places. 

The  moderate  distance  of  Auchtertool  from  the  grain  corn  mar- 
ket in  Kirkaldy,  with  a  turnpike  road  between  them,  is  very  advan- 
tageous to  the  agriculture  of  this  parish,  and  that  advantage  might 
be  increased  by  altering  the  line  of  road.    The  road  is  kept  in 
good  repair,  but  the  line  of  road  is  objectionable.    There  are  se- 
veral  hard  pulls  in  it,  which  would  be  avoided  by  another  line 
without  a  pull  in  it.    The  preferable  line  is  so  obvious,  that  the 
manner  in  which  carriage  was  performed,  and  the  imperfect  man- 
ner in  which  roads  formerly  were  made  and  kept,  can  alone  account 
for  its  not  being  preferred  at  first.    Carriage  was  then  performed 
on  horseback,  and,  as  ridges  were  generally  driest,  they  were  pre- 
ferred as  the  lines  of  roads. 

There  is  also  a  turnpike  road  from  Auchtertool  to  Kinghorn 
and  Pettycur,  but  the  numerous  severe  pulls  in  it,  render  it  nearly 
useless  for  carriage.  On  that  road,  a  horse  would  be  oppressed 
with  half  the  load  that  he  could  draw  to  Kirkaldy,  notwithstanding 
the  objection  to  the  line  of  that  road  which  has  been  stated.  Ac- 


AUCHTERTOOL. 


263 


cordingly,  the  road  by  the  West  bridge  tit  Link-Town  of  Abbots- 
liall,  though  nearly  three  miles  longer  than  the  direct  road,  is 
sometimes  preferred  for  carriages.  It  is  fortunate,  however,  for  the 
parish  of  Auchtertool,  that  the  road  to  Kinghorn  and  Pettycur  is 
not  of  such  importance  to  its  agricultural  interest  as  that  to  Kirk- 
aldy,  to  which  the  chief  part  of  the  parish  produce  is  carried  for 
market. 

The  progress  of  improvement  in  agriculture  has  contributed 
much  to  meliorate  the  condition  of  the  people.  With  its  progress, 
the  demand  for  their  labour  has  increased,  and  the  rate  of  wages 
advanced  accordingly ;  both  cottars  and  villagers  occupy  better 
houses  than  they  did  forty  years  T>go.  In  the  former  Statistical 
Account,  it  is  stated,  "  that  men  and  women's  wages  had  risen 
greatly  of  late ;  that  men-servants  used  to  get  L.  6  Sterling  for  the 
vear,  and  women  L.  2,  10s.,  but  that  then  a  man-servant  received 
L.  8,  and  a  woman  L.  3  for  the  year."  At  the  present  date  men- 
servants  get  L.  12,  and  women  L.  6,  some  L.  7  for  the  year.  The 
rate  of  wages  for  the  day-labourers  has  risen  in  proportion ;  and  in 
comparison  with  former  times,  the  comforts  of  the  labouring  class 
of  the  community  are  greatly  increased. 

These  benefits,  however,  are  not  unmerited;  for  though  the 
price  of  labour  be  higher  in  proportion  to  the  price  of  grain  now 
than  in  former  times,  the  labour  is  more  profitable  to  the  farmer. 
The  servant  labours  harder;  and  his  work  being  under  more  ju- 
dicious and  skilful  direction,  being  more  profitably  applied,  and 
better  performed,  is  consequently  more  productive  than  formerly. 
The  time  was,  when  a  considerable  portion  of  time,  in  summer, 
was  occupied  by  the  farm-servants  in  pulling  thistles  out  of  the 
corn  to  supper  their  horses  at  night.  So  that,  though  the  wages 
be  advanced  to  a  higher  rate,  comparatively,  the  labour  being  more 
productive,  is  in  fact  not  more  costly.  Accordingly,  the  farmer's 
comfort  is  very  much  enlarged,  and  his  style  of  living  very -much 
altered  and  improved.  Landlord,  tenant,  and  farm-servant  have 
each  their  due  proportion  of  the  benefits  derived  from  agricultural 
improvement. 


November  1 836. 


PARISH  OF  SCOONIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  BREWSTER,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — In  the  old  parochial  Records,  the  name  of  this  parish  is 
written  Scuny  ;  and  must  be  of  considerable  antiquity,  as  we  learn 
from  Chalmers's  Caledonia,  that  the  church  of  Scuny  was  granted 
by  Malduin,  Bishop  of  St  Andrew's,  to  the  Culdees  of  Loch  Le- 
ven,  about  the  end  of  the  eleventh  century. 

Extent,  §-c. — This  parish  extends  about  4  miles  in  length  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  nearly  2  in  breadth,  and  forms  the  figure  of  a  cone, 
with  its  base  upon  the  Frith  of  Forth.    The  river  Leven  washes 
its  western  boundary,  and  separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Wemyss, 
and  a  detached  part  of  the  parish  of  Markinch.    Kennoway,  Ket- 
tle, and  Cults  bound  it  on  the  north,  and  Largo  on  the  east;  and  "  at 
the  north-east  extremity,  the  three  parishes  of  Scoonie,  Largo,  and 
Ceres,  and  the  three  presbyteries  of  Kirkaldy,  St  Andrews,  and 
Cupar  meet  in  one  point."   The  ground  rises  from  S.  to  N.,  with 
a  gentle  slope,  and,  at  the  highest  point  is  about  700  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  There  are  no  hills,  but  several  swells  or  risings  of 
the  ground,  which  command  a  very  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect 
of  the  Forth  and  its  southern  shore.  The  coast,  above  one  mile  m 
length,  is  flat  and  sandy,  without  a  rock  in  its  whole  extent,  and 
forms  part  of  Largo  bay. 

The  climate  is  in  general  mild  and  temperate,  especially  on  the 
coast,  except  when  the  sea  breeze  sets  in  during  the  spring  months, 
and  then  the  atmosphere  is  loaded  with  moisture,  and  the  wmd 
cold  and  penetrating. 

Hydrography. — There  are  few  springs  of  good  water  in  the  pa- 
rish, and  only  one  deserving  of  notice.  It  rises  in  a  sandy  flat, 
not  far  from  the  sea  beach,  and  has  received  the  name  of  "  the 
boiling  well,"  from  its  bubbling  appearance  as  it  issues  through 
the  sand.  The  discharge  from  this  spring  is  copious,  and  the 
water  of  the  purest  quality,  but  its  distance  from  the  town  renders 


scooNiE.  265 

it  of  little  use.  The  river  Leven,  the  only  one  in  the  county,  no- 
ticed by  Buchanan,  issues  from  the  loch  of  the  same  name,  and, 
after  flowing  through  a  fertile  vale  and  receiving  many  tributaries, 
discharges  itself  into  Largo  bay,  at  the  town  of  Leven.  It  abounds 
with  various  kinds  of  trout,  pike,  and  eels,  and  at  its  estuary  there 
was  formerly  a  valuable  salmon-fishing;,  but,  owing  to  the  forma- 
tion of  some  of  the  dam-dikes,  which  prevent  the  salmon  from 
ascending  the  river,  and  also  to  the  deleterious  substances  from 
the  bleachfields,  which  are  mixed  with  its  waters,  this  fishing  has 
been  discontinued  for  several  years. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — Beds  of  coal,  varying  in  thickness, 
and  at  different  depths  under  the  surface,  pervade  the  whole  of  the 
parish;  but  none  of  the  seams  are  at  present  worked.  The  coal  upon 
the  estate  of  Durie,  which  was  wrought  for  upwards  of  a  century,  and 
was  drained  by  a  water  engine,  consisted  of  three  seams,  the  two  up- 
per, each  four  feet  thick,  and  the  lower  eight  feet.  There  is  under- 
stood to  be  a  fourth  seam  below  these,  called  the  craw  coal,  the  crop- 
ping of  which  comes  out  about  120  yards  south-east  of  the  mansion- 
house.  The  third  seam,  called  the  main  coal,via.s  considered  the  best 
in  the  county.  Considerable  quantities  of  it  used  to  be  exported 
to  Holland,  where  it  met  with  a  ready  sale ;  and  it  is  said,  even  at 
this  day,  that  the  best  Scotch  coals  in  that  market  go  under  the 
name  of  Durie  coals.  The  direction  of  the  strata  is  from  the  N.  W. 
to  the  S.  E. ;  with  one  hitch  or  dike  below  the  farm  house  of  Ban- 
beath,  and  another  about  a  mile  farther  east.  The  following  old 
table  shows  a  section  of  Durie  coal  and  metals,  cut  by  a  plane 
perpendicular  to  the  streak,  from  the  crop  to  the  depth  of  forty 
fathoms. 

Fathoms  Feet.  Fathoms  Feet. 

Earth  metals,      7       0  Brought  over,  24  2 

Till,  0       3  Coal,  0  4 

Greystone,  2       0  Dogger  and  hardstone,  1  0 

Whitestone,         2       1  Broats  and  hardstone,    1  0 

Till,  3       3  Broats,  1  3 

Hardstone,  1       ]  Till,  3  0 

Till,  1       5  Dogger  and  stone,       2  0 

Coal,  0       4  Grey  broats,  1  0 

Ratchel,  1       0  Whitestone,  1  3 

Reddish-stone,      I        I  Broats  and  till,  J  3 

Hard  band,  1       0  Hardstone,  0  3 

Irregular  metals,  1       0  Till  irregular,  1  1 

Soft  till,  1       2  Main  coal,  1  2 

24      2  40  0 

About  the  year  1802,  a  bore  was  put  down  near  Scoonie  bridge, 
which  reached  the  bottom  of  the  main  coal,  at  the  depth  of  53 


26G 


FIFESIIIRI': 


fathoms.  This  bore,  besides  the  upper  seams  of  coal,  passed 
through  a  stratum  of  ochre  upwards  of  4  feet  thick,  and  three 
seams  of  fire  clay,  two  of  which  are  of  the  finest  quality.  These 
operations  were  preparatory  to  working  the  main  coal ;  but  the  pro- 
prietor died  soon  after,  and  his  heirs  are  under  entail. 

A  bed  of  ochre  four  feet  thick,  lying  on  the  estates  of  Durie 
and  Aithernie,  has  been  wrought  for  several  years,  of  which  a  con- 
siderable quantity  is  exported. 

II.— Civil  History. 

The  town  of  Leven  is  a  burgh  of  barony  holding  under  the  fa- 
mily of  Durie;  but,  having  no  local  government  till  very  lately, 
it  possesses  no  records,  and  there  is  nothing  worthy  of  remark  in 
its  history.  There  is  a  very  accurate  plan  of  the  estate  of  Durie, 
which  comprehends  about  three-fifths  of  the  parish ;  but  there  has 
been  no  general  survey  of  the  parish. 

Eminent  Men.—Oi  the  family  of  Gibson,  the  former  proprietors 
of  Durie,  was  Sir  Alexander  Gibson,  Lord  Durie,  a  Lord  of  Ses- 
sion, and  collector  of  the  reports,  well  known  in  the  Scottish  law, 
under  the  title  of  Durie's  Decisions.    Of  this  judge,  a  remarkable 
circumstance  is  recorded,  which  indicates  a  very  unsettled  state  of 
society,  and  shews  with  what  a  feeble  hand  the  authority  of  the 
Government  was  administered,  when  such  an  outrage  could  be  com- 
mitted with  impunity,  and  even  without  inquiry.  In  the  early  part  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  the  then  Earl  of  Traquair  had  a  law- 
suit depending  before  the  Court  of  Session,  which  was  of  great  im- 
portance to  his  family ;  and,  having  reason  to  beUeve  that  the  opi- 
nion of  Lord  Durie  was  unfavourable  to  his  interest,  he  employed 
Willie  Armstrong,  a  noted  freebooter  of  these  times,  to  convey 
his  Lordship  out  of  the  way,  until  the  cause  should  be  decided. 
Accordingly,  when  the  Judge  was  taking  his  usual  airing  on  horse- 
back upon  Leith  sands,  he  was  forcibly  dragged  from  his  horse  by 
Armstrong  near  the  Figgate  Whins,  and  carried  blindfold  to  an 
old  castle  in  Annandale,  called  the  tower  of  Graham.    Here  he 
remained  closely  immured  for  three  months,  debarred  from  all  in- 
tercourse with  human  kind,  and  receiving  his  food  through  an 
aperture  in  the  wall.    His  friends  had  concluded  him  dead,  and 
had  gone  into  mourning,  supposing  that  he  had  been  thrown  from 
his  horse  into  the  sea ;  but,  upon  the  law-suit  terminating  in  favour  of 
Lord  Traquair,'  he  was  brought  back  in  the  same  mysterious  man- 
ner, and^set  down  upon  the  very  spot  where  he  had  been  taken 
up.    Another  Lord  Durie,  in  1652,  was  one  of  the  commission- 


SCOONIE. 


ers  sent  from  Scotland  to  treat  with  the  Enghsh  Parliament  about 
the  union  of  the  kingdoms :  and  a  laird  of  Durie  of  the  same 
family  sat  in  the  first  Scottish  Parliament  of  Charles  11.  in  1660. 

Mr  Jerome  Stone,  a  man  remarkable  for  talent  and  erudition, 
was  born  in  this  parish,  and  of  humble  parents,  about  the  year  1727. 
He  commenced  his  career  in  life  as  a  travelling  chapman,  and 
afterwards  became  an  itinerant  bookseller.  Possessing  a  peculiar 
talent  for  acquiring  languages,  he  became,  by  his  own  unaided  exer- 
tions, one  of  the  most  eminent  linguists  of  his  time ;  but  died  in  early 
life  at  the  age  of  thirty,  while  schoolmaster  of  the  parish  of  Dun- 
keld.  At  his  death  he  was  preparing  for  the  press  an  "  Inquiry 
into  the  original  of  the  nation  and  language  of  the  ancient  Scots, 
with  conjectures  about  the  primitive  state  of  the  Celtic  and  other 
European  Nations and  he  left  in  manuscript  the  well  known 
allegory,  entitled,  "  The  Immortality  of  Authors,"  which  has 
been  often  reprinted,  and  is  a  lasting  monument  of  his  lively  fancy, 
sound  judgment,  and  correct  taste. 

Land-owners. — The  principal  land-owners  are,  Charles  Mait- 
land  Christie,  Esq.  proprietor  of  Durie  and  Scoonie,  valued  rent 
L.  2961,  7s.  5d. ;  Captain  James  Erskine  Wemyss,  R.  N.  pro- 
prietor of  Aithernie,  L.  443,  4s.  lOd;  Major  Anderson,  proprietor 
of  Monthrive,  L.  470,  15s.  8d. ;  James  Ely  the  Fernie,  Esq.  pro- 
prietor of  Kilmux  and  Ovenstone,  L.  413,  13s.  4d. ;  George 
Simpson,  Esq.  proprietor  of  Letham,  L.408,  10s.;  David  Fleming, 
Esq.  proprietor  of  Myreside,  L.  118,  lis.  4d. ;  and  Mr  Wallace, 
proprietor  of  Park-hill,  L.  25,  6s.  The  present  landed  rental  is 
about  L.  G500,  and  the  house  rental  about  L.  ]  600. 

Parochial  Registers.— -The  oldest  volume  of  records,  which  has 
been  well  kept,  contains  the  general  acts  of  the  kirk-session  from 
1626  to  1642,  and  the  particular  acts  from  1640  to  1655.  The 
records  commence  again  in  1667,  and  are  brought  down  to  the 
present  time,  with  the  exception  of  two  blanks,  one  between  the 
years  1746  and  1764,  and  the  other  between  1781  and  1798.  This 
last  blank  has  been  accounted  for  by  the  sudden  death  of  the  ses- 
sion-clerk, who  had  neglected  to  transcribe  the  minutes  of  session 
from  the  note-book  into  the  regular  record ;  and  that  note-book 
is  now  lost. 

Antiquities.— There  are  but  few  vestiges  of  antiquity  in  the  pa- 
rish, though  there  is  little  doubt  of  its  having  been,  in  early  times, 
the  scene  of  mortal  strife,  as  is  testified  by  the  near  neighbourhood 
of  the  standing  stones  of  Lundin.    It  is  said  in  the  former  Statis- 


268 


FIFESIIIRE. 


tical  Account,  that  "  some  stone-coffins  were  found  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  river,  with  human  bones,  supposed  to  have  been  de- 
posited there  in  the  ninth  century,  when  a  battle  was  fought  upon 
these  grounds  between  the  Scots  and  Danes."  But  a  more  in- 
teresting relic  of  antiquity  was  opened  up  about  fifteen  years  ago, 
in  the  corner  of  a  field  upon  the  estate  of  Aithernie,  when  digging 
out  moulding-sand  for  a  foundery  in  the  neighbourhood.  This  was 
an  ancient  cairn  or  tumulus,  containing  about  twenty  stone-coffins, 
and  formed  upon  the  apex  of  a  conical  hill.  The  base  of  this  tu- 
mulus was  about  forty  yards  square,  and  laid  with  a  coating  of  clay ; 
and  the  cistvaens  or  coffins  were  constructed  of  rude  slabs,  placed 
on  edge  with  a  covering  stone,  and  cemented  with  clay  puddle. 
Above  the  coffins  was  a  cairn  of  small  stones,  about  three  feet  in 
depth,  and  over  this  was  spread  a  composition  of  clay  and  sand,  so 
hard  that  it  required  the  aid  of  a  pick-axe  to  penetrate  it.  In  two 
of  the  coffins,  near  the  end,  was  placed  a  small  urn  made  of  clay, 
and  rudely  ornamented,  and  about  six  inches  in  diameter  and  the 
same  in  depth.  These  urns  contained  a  blackish  substance,  which 
was  covered  with  oak-bark ;  but  the  bark  immediately  mouldered 
down,  upon  being  exposed  to  the  atmosphere.  Five  of  the  coffins 
contained  each  a  larger  urn  of  similar  materials,  about  14  inches 
in  diameter,  and  24  in  depth.  These  were  placed  with  their 
mouths  inverted  upon  a  square  stone,  and  were  filled  with  calcined 
bones.  In  one  coffin,  smaller  than  the  rest,  were  found  a  quanti- 
ty of  beads  made  of  charred  wood,  and  about  half  an  inch  in  length. 
All  the  coffins,  except  the  five  which  held  the  larger  urns,  contain- 
ed human  bones ;  but  a  much  greater  quantity  of  these  rehcs  of 
mortality  were  scattered  around  the  cemetery,  and  were  protect- 
ed only  by  the  dry  stones  which  formed  the  cairn.  The  great 
number  of  uncoffined  bones  might  warrant  the  conjecture,  that  a 
battle-field  was  not  far  distant;  but  the  absence  of  all  instruments 
or  emblems  of  war,  and  the  presence  of  a  female  corpse,  which  the 
beads,  the  usual  ornaments  of  the  British  women,  indicate,  would 
more  naturally  lead  to  the  belief,  that  this  tumulus  formed  a  peace- 
able dormitory  of  our  pagan  forefathers.* 

Modern  Buildings. — The  modern  buildings  are,  the  mansion- 
house  of  Durie,  built  in  1762;  that  of  Kilmux  in  ia32;  and  that 
of  Monthrive  in  1836;  and  five  spinning-mills,  and  one  flour-mill, 
all  of  modern  erection.  The  materials  used  for  building,  especial- 

•  Some  of  the  urns  and  beads  are  still  in  the  possession  of  Mi-  Balfour,  the  tenant 
upon  the  farm. 


SCOONIE.  269 

ly  in  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  are  generally  brought  by  sea, 
from  the  quarries  of  Inverkeithing  and  Blair. 

III. — Population. 
The  population  of  Scoonie  since  the  commencement  of  the  cen- 
tury, has  been  progressively  and  rapidly  increasing,  owing  chiefly 
to  the  erection  of  several  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  pa- 
rish and  neighbourhood. 

The  ijopiilation  in  1 755  amounted  to  1 528 
1791  -  1675 
1801  -  1C81 

1811  -  1726 
1821  .  2042 

1831        -  2556 
According  to  this  census  there  were  1224  males,  and  1342  females. 
Number  of  persons  under  15  years  of  age  .  .  _  1066 

between  1 5  and  30  -  -  -  545 

30  and  50  -  -  -  660 

50  and  70  -  -  -  215 

above  70  -  -  -  -  70 

The  present  population  is  2640,  of  whom  2163  reside  in  Leven 
and  its  suburbs,  and  473  in  the  country  part  of  the  parish.  It  is 
difficult  to  ascertain  with  accuracy  the  average  number  of  births, 
as  few  of  the  dissenters  have  the  names  of  their  children  register- 
ed ;  and  many  belonging  to  the  establishment  are  equally  negligent. 


The  average  of  marriages  for  the  last  3  years  is          '    -           -  -  27 

deaths,                .....  gg 
The  number  ofinsane,  2  ;  blind,  2  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  1  ;  and  imbecUe,  2. 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish               -              -              .  ,  555 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,           -           -  -  85 


trade,  manufactures,  and  handicraft,  317 

There  are  three  landed  proprietors  of  independent  fortune  re- 
siding in  the  parish  ;  and  three  non-resident  heritors  possessed  of 
land  exceeding  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

The  number  of  acres  occasionally  in  tillage,  about  3250 
of  uncultivated  links,  105 
in  pasture,  but  in  the  progress  of  being 

cultivated,  .  .  250 

under  wood,  planted,  250 

Number  of  acres  in  the  parish  about  3855 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  and  value  of  raw  produce, 
raised  yearly  in  the  parish,  so  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  -  L.  8500 
Hay  and  pasture,  .  3350 
Potatoes  and  turnips,       .  2200 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce,  L.  14,050 

Rent  of  land.— The  rent  of  arable  land  varies  from  16s.  to  L.  4 


270  FIFESHIRE. 

per  imperial  acre,  and  averages  about  L.  1,  17s.  The  grazing  of  a 
cow  averages  about  L.  4 ;  of  an  ox  L.  3 ;  and  of  a  ewe  or  full 
grown  sheep,  pastured  for  the  year,  12s. 

Rate  of  Wages,  ^c. — A  day-labourer  receives  Is.  6d.  in  summer, 
and  Is.  4d.  in  winter;  a  mason,  carpenter,  or  other  mechanic,  receives 
from  2s.  2d.  to  2s.  6d.  in  summer,  and  from  1  s.  lOd.  to  2s.  in  winter  ; 
an  unmarried  farm-servant  receives  from  L.  1 0  to  L.  1 1  per  an- 
num, with  board  in  the  farmer's  kitchen ;  and  when  he  lives  in  the 
hothie,  he  has  the  same  wages,  with  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  a 
pint  of  sweet-milk  per  day ;  a  married  man,  who  has  a  cow,  receives 
from  L.  6  to  L  7,  with  a  house,  6|  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  6  bolls  of 
potatoes,  or  ground  to  plant  potatoes ;  those  who  have  no  cows 
receive  L.  2  or  L.  3  additional,  with  a  pint  of  sweet-milk  per  day ; 
a  woman  farm-servant  receives  from  L,  5  to  L.  6  with  board;  and 
women  employed  in  out-door  labour  have  8d.  per  day  of  nine 
hours.  The  rate  of  mason,  carpenter,  and  other  mechanical  work 
is  as  follows  :— ruble  building  per  rood  of  36  square  yards,  from 
28s.  to  32s. ;  stone  and  lime  dikes  per  do.  16s.  to  20s. ;  dry-stone 
dikes  per  do.  7s.  to  10s. ;  slating  per  do,  10s.  to  14s. ;  tiling  per 
do.  5s.  to  6s.  6d. ;  plastering  two  coats  per  yard,  2d.  The  price 
of  different  articles,  for  the  purposes  of  rural  economy,  which  are 
in  use  and  manufactured  in  the  parish,  is,  a  farm-cart  with  iron 
axle,  from  L.  10,  10s.  to  L.  11 ;  an  iron  two-horse  plough,  L.  3,  5s.; 
iron  swingle-trees,  15s. ;  a  pair  of  iron  harrows,  from  L.  2,  5s.  to 
L.  2,  8s. ;  a  two-horse  self-cleaning  iron  harrow,  L.  5,  5s. ;  an 
iron  trenching  skeleton  plough,  from  L.  5,  10s.  to  L.  6 ;  an  iron 
strip  plough  L.  2,  2s. ;  a  drill  harrow  L.  2,  2s. 

Breed  of  Cattle  and  S/ieep.— There  are  few  sheep  in  the  parish, 
and  these  are  generally  bought  in  the  south  countiy  markets,  about 
the  month  of  August,  either  to  be  fed  off  on  turnips  during  the 
winter,  or  to  be  kept  as  a  breeding  stock,  when  the  lambs  are  sold 
in  the  spring,  and  the  ewes  are  fattened  and  disposed  of  during  the 
summer.    The  general  breed  of  cattle  is  the  native  horned  black 
breed  of  the  county.    About  twenty  years  ago,  this  breed  was  in 
great  request  by  the  English  dealers,  to  drive  to  the  southern  mar- 
kets, where  they  met  a  ready  demand,  on  account  of  their  kmdly 
feeding  qualities,  and  the  great  weight  to  which  they  were  raised 
on  the  English  pastures.     At  that  period,  nearly  one-half  of 
the  cattle  bred  in  the  county  were  taken  to  England  in  a  lean 
state.  But  now,  from  the  general  improvement  in  husbandry,  and 
the  introduction  of  artificial  manures,  the  system  is  completely 


SCOONIE. 


271 


changed.  Most  of  the  cattle  reared  in  the  county  are  fattened  at 
home ;  and  are  either  consumed  by  our  own  population,  or  sent  to 
the  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow  markets ;  and  some  of  late  have  been  sent 
by  the  Dundee  steam-vessels  to  London.  Where  the  native  breed 
has  been  well  selected  and  kept  pure,  it  has  been  found  best  adapt- 
ed far  the  soil  and  climate  of  this  county.  Unfortunately,  how- 
ever, many  crosses  with  other  breeds  have  been  introduced;  and 
almost  every  one  of  these  crosses  has  tended  rather  to  deteriorate 
than  to  improve  the  original  stock.  This  appears  now  to  be  ge- 
nerally acknowledged,  and  a  desire  has  arisen  among  our  agricul- 
turists to  give  up  crossing  entirely,  and  to  confine  their  attention 
to  the  native  breed  of  the  county,  as  being  the  most  profitable. 
The  celebrated  ox  of  the  Fife  breed,  "  Charlie,"  was  bred  in  this 
parish,  by  Mr  Wallace,  tenant  at  Balgrummo.  He  was  exhibited 
by  Mr  Bruce  of  Kennet,  at  the  Highland  Society  exhibition  at 
Stirling  in  1833,  and  gained  the  premium  given  by  that  Society 
for  the  best  ox  of  any  breed,  competing  against  the  Teeswater 
and  other  breeds.  In  this  parish,  also,  were  reared  by  James  B. 
Fernie,  Esq.  of  Kilmux,  and  exhibited  by  him  at  Stirling  the  same 
year,  the  two  oxen  which  gained  the  premium  given  by  the  Hio-h- 
land  Society  for  the  best  pair  of  cattle  of  the  Fife  breed. 

Husbandry. — The  system  of  husbandry  generally  pursued  in 
this  parish,  is  the  rotation  of  alternate  white  and  green  crops ;  and 
the  soil  adapted  for  grass  is  allowed  to  remain  two  or  more  years 
in  pasture.    Since  the  last  Statistical  report  was  published,  the  an- 
nual land  rental  has  increased  from  L.  2000  to  nearly  L.  6500  ; 
and  many  an  acre,  since  that  period,  has  been  brought  from  a 
state  of  unprofitable  barrenness  to  bear  luxuriant  crops  of  all  kinds 
of  grain.    Notwithstanding  the  depression  under  which  the  agri- 
cultural interest  has  been  labouring  for  several  years,  improve- 
ments upon  the  soil  are  still  carrying  on  with  considerable  spirit ; 
and  some  of  the  occupiers  of  wet  land  are  rendering  the  soil  com- 
paratively dry,  by  adopting  the  new  mode  of  draining,  called  "the 
frequent  drain  system,"  and  by  using  the  skeleton  trenching  plough, 
invented  by  Mr  Smith  of  Deanston,  and  improved  by  Mr  Henry 
Thallan,  blacksmith  at  Smiddy-green,  in  this  parish.    Major  An- 
derson of  Monthrive,-.and.  Mr  Fernie  of  Kilmux  may  be  named  as 
improvers  on  this  system. 

Leases.— The  duration  of  leases  is  generally  for  a  term  of  nine- 
teen years ;  and  there,  seems  no  reason  to  suppose  that  any  change 


272 


FIFESHIRE, 


in  this  respect  would  be  favourable  to  the  occupier,  except  in  im- 
proving leases,  where  the  capital  is  all  expended  by  the  tenant. 

Farm  Buildings.— OWmg  to  a  great  portion  of  the  property  m 
this  parish  being  entailed,  the  farm-steadings  are  not  generally  so 
commodious  as  they  would  require  to  be,  in  order  to  keep  pace 
with  the  modern  system  of  husbandry ;  but  still,  they  are  in  a  gra- 
dual state  of  improvement.  The  best  steading  in  the  parish  was 
built  in  1833  by  Mr  Fernie  on  his  property  of  Kilmux,  and  cost 
nearly  L.  2000.  Attached  to  it  is  a  steam-engine,  which  propels 
a  thrashing  machine,  and  also  two  pairs  of  stones  for  grinding  oats. 

The  chief  obstacle  to  farther  improvement  arises  from  the  diffi- 
culty of  procuring  stones  for  the  purposes  of  building  and  drain- 
ing, there  being  no  quarries  of  any  consequence,  except  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  parish,  and  these  chiefly  of  whinstone. 

Mannfactures.-i:\^Q  following  table  gives  a  view  of  the  several 
branches  of  manufacture,  which  are  at  present  m  operation  in  this 
parish,  with  the  number  of  individuals  employed,  and  the  requisite 
capital. 

Males.     Females.  Capital. 
Five  mills  for  spinning  flax  and  tow,     ■     98  156  ^^'JoJ 

One  foundery  for  cast  iron,  "  on  '  3  000 

One  saw  mill  and  wood-yard,       -  lo  "        '  I'oOO 

One  mill  for  bruising  bones,       -  l  o  '  '  'sOO 

One  brick  and  tile  work,  •  ij^  ' 

One  ochre  mill,  •  '        idR  9.^ 

Hand-loom  weaving,  -       -   ^  

^  178  L.  24,500 

Tn  the  spinning-mills,  both  adults  and  children  are  employed  six 
days  in  the  week,  and  work  the  legal  number  of  hours,  as  fixed  by 
the  factory  bill,  namely,  twelve  hours  for  five  days,  and  nine  hours 
on  Saturday,  making  sixty-nine  hours  per  week.  Males  receu;e 
from  14s.  to  L.  1,  2s.  per  week;  females  from  5s.  to  7s. ;  and  chil- 
dren from  2s.  6d.  to  5s. 

These  mills  are  fitted  up  upon  the  most  improved  construction; 
and  their  machinery  is  adapted  for  spinning  all  kinds  and  sizes  ot 

flax  and  tow  yarns.  . 

The  hand-loom  weavers  work  by  the  piece,  and  at  their  own 
homes ;  consequently,  their  earnings  depend  entirely  upon  their  own 
skill  and  industry;  but  may  average  12s.  per  week  for  inales,  and 
from  8s.  to  10s.  for  females.  In  the  foundery,  wages  run  from  12s. 
to  24s  per  week,  and,  in  the  other  works,  are  nearly  the  same  as 
those  of  agricultural  labourers.  They  generally  work  ten  hours  a 
day     Wages  for  all  kinds  of  manufacture  afford  at  present  a  fair 


SCOONIR. 


273 


remuneration  and  support  to  those  who  are  engaged  in  them;  and 
all  who  are  of  sober  and  industrious  habits  are  well  able  to  live 
comfortably,  and  to  bring  up  and  educate  their  families  in  a  decent 
and  respectable  manner.  It  has,  however,  been  generally  remark- 
ed, that  those  who  receive  the  highest  wages  are  commonly  the 
most  idle  and  dissipated,  often  neglecting  both  the  maintenance 
and  the  education  of  their  families. 

Navigation. — Belonging  to  the  part  of  Leven  are  two  brigs  car- 
rying 374  tons,  which  are  chiefly  employed  in  the  American  trade, 
and  five  sloops  of  188  tons,  engaged  as  coasters.  In  1835,  15  ves- 
sels from  foreign  parts,  and  222  coasters,  entered  the  harbour  with 
cargoes.  The  imports  and  exports  for  the  same  year  are  shewn  in 
the  following  table. 


Imparls. 
Ashes,  556  barrels, 
Bones,  232  tons, 
Wheat,  206  quarters 
Barley,  995  ditto. 
Malt,  266  ditto. 
Coals,  577  tons 
Flax,  357  ditto 
Hemp,  361  ditto. 
Herrings,  272  barrels, 
Pig  iron,  440  tons 
I'apc  cake,  40  ditto. 
Stones,  1322  ditto. 
Slates,  105  ditto. 
Timber, 


L. 


4170 
951 
410 

1244 
638 
230 
17850 

7942 
272 

2200 
220 
220 
330 

6513 


Exports. 

Bone-dust,  500  tons        -  L.  3000 

Bricks  and  tiles,           -  80 

Linen  cloth,  900  bales,     -  lEOOO 

Cast-iron,  215  tons,           -  2580 

Pig-iron,  30  ditto,          -  180 

Ochre,  191  ditfo,  573 

Oats,  60  quarters,            -  60 

Potatoes,  2084  boll?,        -  730 

Whisky,  376  puncheons,     -  15040 

Yarn,  440  tons,             -  20240 

Total,  L.  60483 


Total,  L.  43190 

The  harbour  at  Leven  is  entirely  a  natural  one,  and  is  formed 
by  a  creek  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  At  spring-tides,  it  admits 
vessels  of  about  300  tons  burden,  but  it  is  rather  difficult  of  ac- 
cess, owing  to  the  banks  of  sand,  which  are  frequently  shifting 
by  heavy  sea  storms,  or  floods  in  the  river.  There  is  a  small  quay, 
lately  built,  where  the  ships  are  unloaded;  but  it  is  altogether  in- 
sufficient for  the  increasing  trade  of  the  port. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Market-Toims. — The  only  town  in  the  parish  is  Leven,  with  a 
population  of  above  2000.  It  lies  on  the  sea  shore,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and  consists  of  two  principal  streets 
running  parallel  to  each  other,  with  a  variety  of  bye-lanes.  Weav- 
ing of  linen  is  the  staple  trade  of  the  place,  and  affords  steady  em- 
ployment to  the  inhabitants.  A  board  of  police,  according  to  the 
Act  of  Parliament,  has  been  established  here  for  some  years,  and 
its  labours  are  chiefly  directed  to  the  cleaning  and  lighting  of  the 


FIFE. 


274  FIFESHIRE. 

Streets,  and  supplying  the  town  with  water.  The  market -towns 
of  Cupar  and  Kirkaldy  arc  each  nearly  ten  miles  distant  from 
Leven. 

Means  of  Communication.— The  post-office  is  at  Leven,  where 
there  are  two  arrivals  every  day.    The  turnpike  road,  which  is 
well  kept,  crosses  the  parish  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the 
town :  and  a  stage-coach  passes  from  the  east  of  Fife  to  Edin- 
burgh three  times  a  week.    There  is  also  a  communication  with 
Edinburgh  by  a  steam-boat,  twice  a-day  in  summer,  and  once  in 
winter.    The  want  of  a  carriage  bridge  over  the  river  at  the  town 
of  Leven  has  been  much  felt,  there  being  none  nearer  than 
Cameron  Bridge,  about  three  miles  up  the  river.    This  much  de- 
sired improvement,  however,  is  at  present  in  contemplation,  and 
it  is  hoped  will  soon  be  carried  into  execution.    Near  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  which  was  formerly  crossed  by  a  ferry-boat,  there  has 
been  erected  a  handsome  suspension-bridge,  for  foot-passengers, 
by  means  of  which  the  village  of  Dubbyside  is  now,  m  a  manner 
connected  with  the  town  of  Leven.    This  improvement  cost  near- 
ly L.  500,  which  was  raised  in  shares  of  10s.  6d.  each.    A  halt- 
penny  is  charged  for  each  passenger;  and  the  pontage  is  at  pre- 
sent let  at  L.  85  per  annum. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  old  church  of  Scoonie  stood  m  the 
centre  of  the  burying  ground,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
town  of  Leven  ;  and  what  remains  of  it  forms  the  family  vault  ot 
the  proprietor  of  Durie.    When  the  present  edifice  was  built, 
about  sixty  years  ago,  the  site  was  removed  to  the  vicinity  ot  Le- 
ven, where  the  great  bulk  of  the  population  reside  ;  and  is  about 
four  miles  distant  from  the  most  remote  part  of  the  parish.    It  was 
seated  for  about  700  hearers  ;  but,  owing  to  the  rapid  increase  of  the 
population,  the  want  of  church  accommodation  began  to  be  serious- 
ly felt,  when,  in  1822,  the  heritors  in  the  most  liberal  manner,  jDro- 
ceeded  to  its  enlargement.  It  now  contains  1000  sittings  of  which 
100  are  set  apart  for  the  poor.    The  interior  of  the  building  was 
completely  renewed,  and  there  are  few  country  churches  so  com- 
fortable, either  for  preacher  or  hearers. 

The  manse  was  enlarged  and  repaired  in  1820,  and  is  now  a 
commodious  and  comfortable  dwelling.    The  glebe,  arable  and 
'  grass  together,  is  about  12  acres,  and  is  let  at  L.  50  per  annum. 
The  stipend  was  augmented  in  1830,  and  is  17  chalders  of  ^.c- 
tual,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  the  average  price  of  which  for  the 


SCOONIE. 


275 


last  three  years  is  L.  226,  9s.  8d.  with  L.  10  for  communion  ele- 
ments.* 

There  is  one  Independent  and  one  Relief  chapel  in  the  parish, 
the  ministers  of  which  are  paid  by  the  seat  rents  and  the  Sabbath 
collections.  Divine  service  in  the  Established  Church  is  reofular- 
ly  and  fully  attended ;  but  the  writer  has  no  means  of  knowing 
the  state  of  the  dissenting  chapels.  Number  of  families  belong- 
ing to  the  Established  Church,  384,  or  1751  individuals;  com- 
municants, 738  :  number  of  fjimilies  of  dissenters  of  all  denomina- 
tions, 156,  or  individuals,  827 ;  communicants,  410.  There  are, 
2  Episcopalians,  and  62  who  attend  no  stated  place  of  worship. 

A  society  for  general  religious  purposes,  under  the  direction  of 
the  ladies  of  the  parish,  has  been  in  existence  for  several  years, 
and  the  average  annual  amount  of  its  contributions  for  the  last 
three  years  is  L.  20.  There  is  also  a  ladies'  charitable  society, 
whose  expenditure  for  the  last  three  years  has  averaged  L.  24  per 
annum.  The  church  collections  for  religious  and  charitable  ob- 
jects, independent  of  the  regular  collections,  have,  for  the  last  three 
years,  averaged  L.  8,  7s.  2d.  per  annum. 

Education.—  Besides  the  parish  school,  there  are  three  unendow- 
ed schools,  where,  in  addition  to  the  usual  branches,  are  taught 
Greek,  Latin,  French,  and  mathematics.  There  is  also  a  Female 
school,  where  the  more  ornamental  branches  of  education  may  be 
acquired.  The  emoluments  of  the  parochial  schoolmaster  are  : 
salary  L.  34,  with  L.  2  for  deficiency  of  garden  ground ;  school 
fees  about  L.  70  ;  and  from  other  sources,  as  session  and  heritors' 
clerk,  L.  20.  He  has  also  a  very  superior  dwelling-house.  The 
other  teachers  are  supported  entirely  by  their  school  fees.  The 
average  number  of  scholars  attending  the  different  schools  is  about 
380,  which  shows  that  the  inhabitants  are  sufficiently  ahve  to  the 
benefits  of  education ;  but,  though  these  benefits  are  within  the 
reach  of  all,  yet  no  adequate  change  for  the  better  has  been  produ- 
ced on  the  conduct  and  morals  of  the  people. 

There  have  been  three  illegitmate  births  in  the  parish  during 
the  last  three  years. 

I  am  not  aware  of  any  individual  above  six  years  of  age  being 
altogether  unable  to  read,  except  two,  and  they  are  imbeciles. 

Literature.— A  subscription  library,  consisting  at  present  of  about 
650  volumes,  has  been  in  operation  in  this  parish  for  many  years; 

•  It  may  be  worthy  to  remark,  that  the  present  incumbent  is  only  Uie  third  P»es- 
byterian  rnmistcr  smce  the  Revolution,  the  Episcopalian  clergyman  having  been  al- 
lowed  to  retain  the  beneface  till  his  death,  which  happened  about  1717. 


27()  I'IFESIIIRE. 


and  a  juvenile  collection,  chiefly  of  religious  publications,  is  con- 
nected with  the  Sabbath  school.  There  is  also  a  mechanics'  in- 
stitution, with  a  respectable  library  belonging  to  it. 

Friendly  Societies.— Theve  have  been  several  Friendly  Societies 
in  this  parish;  but  these  institutions,  though  excellent  as  a  means 
of  promoting  a  spirit  of  independence,  frugality,  and  forethought 
among  the  people,  have  been  subject  to  great  insecurity  and  insta- 
bility from  various  causes,  but  chiefly  from  errors  in  calculation 
on  their  first  establishment,  so  that  few  of  the  old  ones  now  re- 
main. /  A  Weaver's  Society  flourished  here  for  nearly  fifty  years, 
and  was  long  in  a  prosperous  state  ;  but,  owing  to  a  greater  num- 
ber of  widows,  than  they  had  calculated  upon,  coming  upon  their 
roll,  their  funds  were  latterly  reduced  to  L.  120,  which,  about  two 
years  ago,  was  divided  among  its  members,  and  the  society  was 
broken  up.    There  are  at  present  in  Leven,  the  Gardeners'  So- 
ciety, with  130  members;  the  Apron  Society,  with  160;  and  the 
Society  of  Odd  Fellows,  with  50;  and  as  all  these  have  taken  advan- 
tage of  the  Friendly  Society  Act,  passed  in  1829,  it  is  to  be  hop- 
ed that,  by  judicious  management,  they  will  be  more  permanent, 
and  productive  of  the  important  benefits  which  they  contemplate. 
A  savings'  bank  was  instituted  here  in  1816 ;  but  it  received  so 
httle  encouragement  from  those  for  whose  benefit  it  was  intend- 
ed, that  it  was  soon  after  discontinued.    A  Government  Annuity 
Society  has  been  for  some  time  in  contemplation.    The  prelimi- 
naries are  now  finally  arranged,  and  it  is  hoped  that  it  will  be  in 
operation  in  a  few  weeks. 

Poor's  Funds.— The  average  number  of  paupers  upon  the 
regular  roll  for  the  last  three  years  is  15;  but  none  are  placed 
there  unless  those  who,  from  age  and  infirmity,  appear  altogether 
incapacitated  from  ever  earning  a  maintenance  for  themselves. 
A  much  greater  number  of  poor  receive  occasional  assistance  dur- 
ing a  temporary  illness,  or  in  winter,  when  there  is  no  out-door 
work.  This  is  given  at  the  discretion  of  the  minister,  or  elder  of 
the  district,  which  has  the  eff"ect  of  stimulating  their  own  exer- 
tions, and  tends  in  some  measure  to  keep  alive  a  spirit  of  independ- 
ence which,  I  fear,  is  fast  fading  from  our  population. 

The  average  annual  disbursements  made  by  the  kirk-session  for 
the  last  three  years  amounted  to  L.  219,  14s.  Id. ;  to' regular  and 
occasional  paupers,  L.  161,  15s.  5d. ;  to  pauper  lunatics,  L.  42, 
19s.  4d. ;  and  to  sessional  expenses,  L.  14,  19s.  4d.  Of  this  sum 
the  church  door  collections  amounted  to  L.  62, 17s.  7d.,  and  sun- 


SCOONIK. 


277 


dries  to'L.  8,  4s.  6d.  The  remainder  was  contributed  by  the  he- 
ritors according"  to  their  valued  rents. 

Prisons, —  Tliough  much  wanted,  there  is  no  prison  in  this  pa- 
rish, nor  even  a  lock-up-house. 

Fairs. — In  former  times,  there  were  one  fair  in  spring  for, lint- 
seed,  and  one  every  month,  from  May  to  October,  for  white  linen. 
Merchants  attended  from  distant  parts  of  the  country,  and  linen 
cloth  to  a  very  considerable  arnount  was  annually  brought  here  for 
sale.  These  fairs,  however,  have  now  dwindled  into  petty  mar- 
kets for  toys  and  sweetmeats ;  and,  as  they  are  often  made  an  oc- 
casion, by  many  of  the  working-classes,  for  dissipation  and  disturb- 
ance, they  may  well  be  dispensed  with. 

Inns,  c^-c. — There  are  28  licensed  houses  for  retailing  spirits  in 
the  town  of  Leven, — a  number  far  beyond  the  wants  of  the  place, 
and  which  has  no  doubt  tended  much  to  demoralize  the  people. 

Fuel. — The  common  fuel  is  coal,  from  the  pits  of  Wemyss  and 
Kilmux.  A  considerable  quantity  of  English  coals  is  annually  im- 
ported, and  is  generally  used  by  the  wealthier  classes. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
With  respect  to  the  more  striking  variations  betwixt  the  present 
state  of  the  parish,  and  that  which  existed  at  the  time  of  the  last 
Statistical  Account,  I  may  generally  refer  to  what  has  been  already 
stated  under  the  diiferent  heads  of  inquiry ;  and  would  advert 
merely  to  the  improved  state  of  agriculture,  by  which  the  rental  of 
the  parish  has  been  more  than  trebled  ;  the  excellent  state  of  the 
turnpike  and  statute-labour  roads ;  and  the  great  increase  in  ti-ade 
and  manufactures.  It  may  be  proper,  however,  to  mention  also 
an  improvement  in  the  mode  of  conducting  funerals,  which  has 
tended  much  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  working  class- 
es. When  the  present  incumbent  came  to  the  parish,  it  was  cus- 
tomary to  have  at  least  three  services,  but  often  more, — one  of  spirits 
with  bread  and  cheese,  and  two  of  wine  with  cake  and  biscuit. 
This  not  only  occasioned  much  delay,  but  entailed  a  heavy  expense 
upon  poor  families,  which,  at  such  a  season  especially,  they  were 
little  able  to  bear.  Now  the  services  are  altogether  discontinued; 
tlie  procession  commences  precisely  at  the  hour  appointed;  audit 
may  be  recorded  to  the  credit  of  the  community,  that,  generally, 
they  entered  most  readily  into  the  new  arrangement. 

December  1836. 


PARISH  OF  ELIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE, 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  MILLIGAN,  MINISTER. 


I.  Topography  and  Natural  History. 

^(,,OTe.— Etymology  is  always  an  uncertain  subject.    In  regard 
particularly  to  the  names  of  places,  which  have  existed  for  genera- 
tions, it  is  often  impossible  to  discover  the  causes  which  led  to 
their  being  imposed,  or,  what  is  more  likely,  the  accident  in  which 
they  had  their  origin.    That  of  «  Elie"  is  involved  in  the  gene- 
ral obscurity.    The  writer  of  the  former  Statistical  Account  has, 
according  to'  the  fashion  which  seems  to  have  prevailed  in  his 
days,  as  well  as  now,  had  recourse  to  Gaehc,  the  mother,  as  it 
should  seem,  of  languages,  and  tells  us,  that  the  parish  received 
its  name  from  "  A  Liche,"  signifying  "  out  of  the  sea  or  out  of 
the  water."    Being  ignorant  of  Celtic,  we  are  unable  to  decide  how 
far  the  derivation  is  correct.    We  are  disposed,  however,  to  doubt 
its  soundness.    For  the  village  is  not  further  out  of  the  sea  than 
any  other  part  of  the  coast.    Nay,  if  we  may  so  speak,:it  extends 
farther  into  it— the  Frith  of  Forth  being  narrower  here  than 
in  any  other  quarter  below  Burntisland.    We  should  rather  be  in- 
chned  to  consider  "  Elie"  as  having  sprung  from  the  Greek  word 
«  exos"  a  marsh.    And  this  is  the  more  likely  to  be  true,  as  the  ap- 
pellation of  "  Ely"  in  England  seems  to  have  had  a  similar  origm, 
and  to  have  been  given  to  the  isle  of  that  name,  situated  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  sea,  in  consequence  of  the  marshy  na- 
ture of  the  surrounding  country.    It  may  be  alleged  that  the  Scot- 
tish Elie  is  not  a  marshy  district;  but  that,  on  the  contrary,  the  soil  is 
dry  and  sandy.    The  argument,  however,  is  no  irrefragable  answer 
to  our  conjecture.    For  one  part  of  the  parish  is  bounded  by  the 
loch  of  Kilconquhar,  where  there  is  a  considerable  portion  of 
marshy  ground ;  and  besides,  the  land  must  have  been  wet  before 
the  improved  system  of  agriculture  by  draining,  &c.  was  introdu- 
ced.   As  a  proof  of  this,  we  find  that  agues  were  at  one  time  very 
common.    But  of  late  they  have  entirely  disappeared— the  last 


/ 


ELIK.  271) 

case  which  lives  in  tradition  having  occurred  upwards  of  twenty 
years  ago ;  and  even  yet,  by  digging,  water  is  found  everywhere 
near  the  surfjice. 

Boundaries.- -The  parish  is  bounded  by  Nevvburn  and  Kilcon- 
quhar,  on  the  west ;  by  Kilconquhar  on  the  north;  by  St  Monance 
on  the  east;  and  by  the  sea  on  the  south.  In  length  it  extends 
about  two  miles,  and  the  breadth  is  nearly  one.  It  is,  however, 
much  intersected  by  the  neighbouring  parish — two  farms  at  the 
distance  of  two  miles,  and  one  at  that  of  three,  being  cut  off  from 
the  principal  divisions  by  portions  of  Kilconquhar.  The  cause  of 
this  seems  to  have  been,  that  the  whole  of  Elie  originally  belonged 
to  Kilconquhar,  and  that,  when  the  disjunction  took,  place  about 
the  year  1639,  Sir  William  Scott  of  Ardross  had  the  whole  of  his 
own  lands,  without  regard  to  their  local  situation,  erected  into  the 
new  parish.  In  this  way,  the  form  of  Burntsheils,  at  the  distance 
of  eight  or  nine  miles,  was  originally  intended  to  form  part  of  it. 
But  the  absurdity  of  such  a  proposal  probably  caused  it  to  be  relin- 
quished :  for  the  lands  in  question  have  always  continued  attach- 
ed to  Kilconquhar.  In  those  days  of  reform,  might  not  a  new 
division  of  parishes  be  conveniently  adopted.  There  are  no  doubt 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  such  an  arrangement,  but  if  necessary 
changes  could  be  accomplished,  it  would  add  much,  in  many  places, 
to  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  kingdom.  * 

Topographical  Appearances. — There  are  no  hills,  and  scarcely 
Avhat  can  be  called  a  rising  ground  in  the  parish.  The  land  is 
generally  flat,  and  along  the  coast,  which  extends  nearly  two  miles, 
there  is  a  considerable  portion  of  what  is  called  "  links," — the  soil 
being  a  bed  of  sand,  and  producing  nothing  that  is  useful.  Dur- 
ing the  time  of  the  late  war,  rabbits  were  encouraged  to  burrow 
there,  and,  the  price  of  skins  -being  high,  considerable  sums  of 
money  were  made  by  the  sale  Of  them.  Some  still  remain  ;  but, 
as  there  is  no  longer  the  same  temptation  to  breed,  the  policy 
of  the  farmers  is  now  turned  to  rooting  them  out,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  injury  which  they  do  to  the  crops.     The  shore  is  sandy 

"  Since  writing  tlic  above,  we  have  met  with  a  hint  of  the  same  kind,  in  the  re- 
port to  hist  Assembly  of  the  Statistical  Sub-Committee  of  the  Church  Extension 
Committee.  "  To  effect  a  remedy  far  these  disadvantages,  must  of  necessity  require 
a  lapse  of  time;  but  the  Subcommittee  deem  it  of  importance,  that  Presbyteries 
sliouid  avail  themselves  of  such  occasions,  as  may,  from  time  to  time,  offer,  by  the 
rebuilding  of  a  church,  to  endeavour  to  obtain  a  more  favourable  situation  for  it,  and 
should  also  consider  how  far,  by  promoting  judicious  disjunctions  and  annexations, 
(Jiiuud  sacra,  of  detacheil  and  di.stant  portioj>s  of  parishes,  they  might  not  in  many  cases 
render  the  existing  means  of  religious  instruction  available  to  a  much  greater  extent 
tii.in  at  present." 


280 


FIFESIIIllE. 


and  gradually  shelving.    There  is,  perhaps,  no  place  on  the  coast 
of  Fife  better  adapted  for  sea-bathing.    Accordingly,  in  the  sum- 
mer and  autumn  months,  it  is  much  resorted  to  for  that  purpose ; 
and  in  consequence  of  the  great  facilities  opened  up  by  steam  com- 
munication, the  probability  is,  that  the  numbers  will  be  considera- 
bly increased.    The  village,  undoubtedly,  is  one  of  the  cleanest 
and  most  healthy  anywhere  to  be  met  with  ;  and  although,  in 
a  popular  Gazetteer,  it  is  said  to  be  excessively  dull,  it  is  not 
more  so  than  other  places  of  the  same  size.    There  is  not,  indeed, 
so  much  trade  to  enliven  it,  as  it  once  enjoyed,  or  as,  under  more 
favourable  circumstances,  it  might  still  command.    But  it  is  a  very 
desirable  retirement,  and  will  not  be  found  deficient  in  society  by 
such  as  do  not  depend  altogether  upon  others  for  their  happiness. 
Hydrography/.— parish  cannot  boast  of  any  rivers.  On 
the  north,  the  boundary  is  partly  formed  by  a  beautiful  lake,  called 
Kilconquhar  Loch,  which  is  said  to  abound  in  pikes  and  eels.  We 
are  not  aware,  however,  that  many  of  them  are  taken.    A  small 
stream  that  issues  from  it,  runs  into  our  harbour,  which  might  per- 
haps be  profitably  employed  for  driving  machinery.    Indeed,  it  is 
reported  that  a  gentleman,  engaged  in  the  linen  trade,  lately  wish- 
ed to  erect  a  flax  mill  on  it ;  but  that  the  trustees  on  the  estate  of 
Elie  gave  the  idea  no  encouragement ;  and  although  work  might 
thus  have  been  furnished  to  a  few  labourers,  there  is  httle  reason 
to  regret,  in  so  far  as  the  morals  of  the  people  are  concerned,  that 
the  proposal  did  not  succeed. 

Harbour.— The  harbour  here  is  excellent.  By  those  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  sea  aff-airs,  it  is  universally  acknowledged  to  be  the 
best  in  the  Frith,  and  the  only  one  where,  in  certain  winds  which 
blow  with  great  violence,  it  is  possible  to  find  a  shelter.  Should 
vessels  happen  to  miss  it,  there  is  no  other  port  which  they  can 
take;  and  the  consequence  is,  that  many  mstances  are  on  record 
of  their  having  been  driven  to  the  coast  of  Norway.  By  the  easy 
access  to  it,  and  its  conveniency  and  safety  when  taken,  it  has 
often  been  the  means  of  preserving  much  valuable  property,  toge- 
ther with  the  hves  of  many  hardy  seamen ;  and  we  find  from  a 
representation  given  in  to  the  Privy  Council  of  Scotland  in  1696, 
that  three  hundred  of  his  Majesty's  soldiers  would  have  perished, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  protection  which  it  afforded.  The  repre- 
sentation alluded  to  is  contained  in  a  petition  laid  before  the 
privy- council  by  William  Reid,  bailie  of  Elie,  and  James  and  Ro- 


ELIli. 


281 


bert  Nairns,  skippers  there,  praying  for  assistance  to  repair  the 
liarbour,  which  was  then  in  a  ruinous  condition.  * 

How  much  money  was  collected  throughout  Scotland  for  the 
purpose  stated,  we  have  no  means  to  ascertain.  But  as  we  hear 
of  no  more  complaints,  the  probability  is,  that  it  was  sufficient  to 
accomplish  the  object.  In  the  former  Statistical  Account,  it  is  stat- 
ed that  this  useful  harbour  was  going  fast  to  ruin.  Since  then, 
something  has  been  done  to  hasten  its  decay,  and  nothing  for  its 
repair  or  improvement.  It  is  now  in  a  very  dilapidated  state ; 
from  being  once  so  accessible,  it  cannot,  without  danger,  be  now 
approached  by  those  who  are  not  fully  acquainted  with  it ;  and 
even  when  it  is  entered  the  anchorage  is  not  good.  The  family 
of  Anstruther  is  the  proprietor.-|-   For  the  last  thirty  or  forty  years, 

•  As  the  paper  is  rather  curious  we  give  it  entire. — "  Act  for  repairing  the  Har- 
bour of  the  Elie.    At  Edinburgh,  the  tenth  day  of  April,  one  thousand  six  hundred 
ninety  and  six,  anent  an  petition  given  in  to  the  Lords  of  his  Majesty's  Privy  Coun- 
cil by  William  Reid,  present  bailie  of  Elie,  and  James  and  Robert  Nairns,  skippei'S 
there,  in  their  own  name  and  in  name  of  the  whole  inhabitants  of  the  said  town, 
showing,  that  the  ruinous  condition  of  the  harboiir  of  the  Ehes  is- witnessed  by  a  tes- 
tificat  under  the  hands  of  several  skippers  of  the  burghs  of  Pittenweem,  Anstruther 
Easter,  and  Earlsferry,  produced  with  the  said  petition,  and  the  same  will  be  abun- 
dantly testified  \)y  many  of  the  merchants  of  Edinburgh,  if  any  doubt  remain  with 
their  Lordships,  anent  the  verity  of  the  representation.   It  is  very  well  known  to 
their  Lordships,  and  to  the  most  part  of  the  kingdom,  that  the  harbour  of  the  Elie  Is 
the  greatest  refuge,  and  was  the  securest  in  storms,  when  ships  are  put  from  their  an- 
chors in  Leith  Road  and  other  places  of  the  Forth,  and  had  no  other  places  to  go 
to  but  that  harbour,  and  if  speedy  course  be  not  taken  to  repair  the  same,  the  trade 
and  shipping  of  the  kingdom  will  be  exceedingly  prejudged,  and  the  petitioners  are 
no  ways  in  a  condition,  by  their  own  proper  means,  to  repair  the  same,  so  that  the 
harbour  must  utterly  perish  unless  their  Lordships  afford  their  wonted  assistance,  by 
granting  a  contribution  through  all  the  kingdom,  seeing  the  ships  and  trade  of  the 
whole  kingdom  have  benefit  by  it,  and  a  necessity  of  it,  the  merchants  in  the  western 
towns  and  shires,  having  their  trade  at  Borrowstounness  and  Queensferry,  and  other 
places  of  the  Firth;  it  is  nottour  that  three  hundred  of  his' Majesty's  soldiers  had 
been  lost,  had  it  not  been  the  conveniency  and  safety  of  that  harbour  :  And  therefore 
humbly  craving  to  the  effect  underwritten,  as  the  said  petition  bears.  The  said  Lords 
of  his  Mijesty's  Privy  Council  having  considered  this  petition  given  into  them  by 
the  above  William  Reid  and  others,  with  the  testificat  mentioned  therein,  and  pro- 
duced therewith,  and  the  estimation  of  the  reparation  of  the  harbour  of  the  Elie,  they 
do  hereby  allow  a  voluntar  contribution  to  be  made  at  all  the  paroch  churches  with- 
in this  kingdom,  for  reparation  of  the  said  harbour  of  the  Elie,  and  that  upon  such 
days  as  the  petitioners  shall  think  fit  ;  and  nominats  and  appoints  the  said  William 
Reid,  and  Thomas  Cook,  .skipper  in  the  Elie,  to  be  collectors  for  uplifting,  ingather- 
ing, and  collecting  of  the  said  contribution,  in  respect  they  have  given  bond, and  found 
sufficient  caution,  acted  in  the  books  of  Privy  Council,  that  they  shall  employ  the 
contributions  to  be  collected  by  them  as  said  is,  upon  the  reparation  of  thcsaid  harbour, 
and  that  they  shall  make  [jayment  of  the  surplu.s,  (if  any  .shall  be,)  to  such  persons  as 
their  Lordships  shall  appoint;  And  appoints  the  Ministers  of  the  several  paroches, 
to  cause  intimate  thir  presents  at  their  paroch  churches  upon  the  Lord's  day,  after 
the  forenoon's  sermon,  immediately  preceding  the  day  upon  which  the  said  collec- 
tion IS  to  bo  made.    And  allows  thir  presents  to  be  printed.    Extracted  by  me, 
OiLii.  EuoT,  CI.  Sn.  Concilii."—"  Edinburgh:  Printed  by  the  Heirs  and  Succes- 
sors o  I  Antlrcw  Amlcr.sim,  Printer  to  His  Most  Excellent  Majesty,  1C96."  Reprint. 

June  1030. 

t  There  was  once  a  village  named  Buchlyvie  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  man- 


'282 


FIFESHIRE. 


however,  the  estate  has  been  generally  under  trustees,  either  from 
minorities  or  from  involvment,  so  that  it  has  not  been  possible  to 
do  any  thing  for  the  benefit  of  the  harbour,  nor  is  there  any 
prospect  from  that  quarter  for  many  years  to  come.   Aware  of  this, 
some  of  the  neighbouring  gentlemen  and  farmers,  interested  in  the 
prosperity  of  the  county,  and  the  success  of  agriculture,  held  a 
meeting  at  Elie  in  the  month  of  May  last,  Mr  Keith  Douglas  of 
Denino  in  the  chair,  where  resolutions  were  unanimously  adopted, 
expressive  of  the  importance  of  the  place,  both  for  the  purposes  of 
trade,  and  as  a  harbour  of  refuge  ;  and  it  was  agreed  to  request  Mr 
Stevenson,  civil-engieeer,  to  survey  it,— reporting  as  to  the  means 
by  which  it  might  be  best  improved,  and  the  expense  that  might  be 
required  ;  it  being  understood  that  if  his  report  should  prove  favour- 
able, immediate  steps  should  be  taken  to  carry  the  projected  improve- 
ments into  effect.   Mr  Stevenson  has  now  given  in  his  report,  fully 
confirming  the  practicability  of  the  undertaking  at  no  very  startling 
sum,  betwixt  L.  4000  and  L.  5000.  The  report  has  been  approved 
of;  and  the  committee  is  now  in  the  course  of  correspondence  with 
Sir  Windham  Anstruther,  and  his  trustees,  for  the  purpose  of  obtain- 
ing their  sanction  ;  and  should  their  attempt  be  successful,  it  is  pro- 
bable that  the  works  would  be  immediately  carried  into  effect,  there 
being  little  doubt  that  the  requisite  sum  might  be  easily  raised, 
by  the  sale  of  shares.    As  the  harbour,  however,  from  being  a 
place  of  refuge,  would  benefit  not  only  the  coast  of  Fife,  but  the 
kingdom  at  large,  it  should  seem  only  fair  that  Government  should 
assist  in  forwarding  the  undertaking. 

Meteorology  and  Climate.— although  lying  so  much  to  the 
east,  is  pretty  well  sheltered  from  the  east  winds.  In  sprmg,  m- 
deed,  the  easterly  breeze,  especially  when  accompanied  with  ram, 
may  be  unpleasant  enough.  But  it  seldom  continues  long ;  and 
we  have  remarked  ourselves— the  same  observation  having  been 
made  to  us  by  strangers-that  in  summer  it  is  rather  agreeable  ; 
for  in  very  hot  weather,  a  sea-breeze  from  the  east  generally 
springs  up  towards  the  afternoon,  and  helps  to  moderate  the  tem- 
perature. During  winter  the  cold  is  not  excessive  ;  and  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  frost  and  snow,  are  seldom  of  long  duration. 

sion  house.    One  of  the  Ladies  Anstruther  ordered  it  to  be  removed  ;  and  it  is  said, 
onTeavinn-?he  place,  one  of  the  old  inhabitants,  a  female,  who  passed  among  her 
that,  onleav,n   tne  ou-ht,  predicted  that  the  family  should  not 

r'^  i\iri'  ,ir  m  revr  generations.  The  prophecy  is  still  devoutly  beheved  by 
flourish  '^'^■''11^,^''^^^^  Uie  fact  has  added  strength  to  their  faith,_the  sixth  pro- 
pHe^  wi intuemory  of  middle  aged  men  Ling  now  in  possession,  and  some 
disaste;  having  occurred  in  the  history  of  them  all. 


ELIE, 


283 


The  village  and  parish  are  commonly  very  healthy.  From  the 
breadth  of  the  streets,  and  the  purifying  breezes,  epidemics  find 
difficulty  in  spreading.  During  the  period  of  the  cholera,  three  cases 
occurred  at  different  times  ;  and,  although  in  one  or  two  of  them 
it  showed  itself  in  circumstances  very  favourable  to  propagation,  it 
never  extended  beyond  the  person  originally  seized.  Last  winter, 
scarlet  fever  prevailed  much  to  the  eastward,  and  was  very  fatal. 
It  did  not  reach  us  till  May,  and  then  it  was  confined  chiefly  to 
children — not  above  two  grown  up  persons  having  been  seized — and 
was  on  the  whole  mild.  It  still,  however,  continues,  having  made 
a  slow  creeping  progress  through  the  different  parts  of  the  village, 
and,  as  the  season  advances,  has  become  rather  more  fatal.  About 
ten  children  have  died  of  it,  or  rather  of  a  dropsical  affection,  by 
which  the  fever  has  been  very  generally  succeeded.  There  are  no 
rain-gages  in  the  parish  ;  and  we  are  not  aware  that  any  individual 
is  in  the  habit  of  making  regular  observations  with  the  thermometer 
or  barometer.  . 

Geology. — Lying  intermediate  betwixt  the  Earlsferry  coal-field 
on  the  west,  and  that  of  St  Monance  on  the  east,  this  parish 
may  be  considered  as  a  section  of  the- great  independent  coal  for- 
mation. This  useful  mineral,  however,  is  wrought  in  no  part  of 
it,  although  at  a  former  period  several  pits  were  open;  and  little 
doubt  can  be  entertained,  from  its  geognostic  relations,  that  it  is 
not  less  highly  favoured  than  its  neighbours  in  this  respect. 

Sauchur  Point  forms  a  bold  projecting  headland  of  rock,  con- 
sisting of  several  varieties  of  trap,  viz.  greenstone,  basalt,  clink- 
stone, and  trap-tuffa,  on  the  west  side  of  which,  in  a  well-protect- 
ed bay,  the  harbour  is  situated.  From  this,  the  stratified  rocks, 
consisting  of  sandstone,  limestone,  shale,  and  •clay-ironstone,  dip 
in  opposite  directions.  The  limestone  lies  upon  the  beach,  within 
the  bky,  but  of  which  little  more  than  the  out-crop  can  be  observ- 
ed. The  same  deposit  occurs  again,  a  little  to  the  east  of  Newark 
Castle,  in  a  bed  about  three  feet  thick,  of  a  bluish  colour,  and 
confusedly  mixed  up  with  the  disturbed  strata  of  that  district.  The 
quality  is  not  considered  to  be  good,  and  accordingly  it  is  not  em- 
ployed at  either  places  for  any  purposes  of  husbandry,  or  of  mason- 
work.  Along  the  shore,  from  Sauchur  Point,  eastward  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  all  the  members  of  the  coal-field  are  to  be 
met  with,  some  of  them  inclined  at  an  ano^le  of  12°,  others  at  30°, 
ana  m  some  mstances,  they  are  thrown  into  a  vertical  position. 
The  tuffa  is  a  compound  of  all  the  adjacent  deposits,— coal,  sand- 


284 


FIFESIIIRE. 


stone,  limestone,  basalt,  and  clinkstone,  mixed  together,  wliicli, 
with  innumerable  small  veins  of  calcareous  spar  interlaced  and 
weaved  in  every  direction,  give  to  the  whole  a  variegated  and  in- 
teresting appearance.    The  imbedded  portions  of  this  compound 
mass  are  not  generally  water-worn,  but  for  the  most  part  sharp  and 
angular  pieces,  varying  from  less  than  an  inch  to  more  than  a  foot  in 
diameter.  The  coal  measures  are  traversed  by  several  trap-dikes, 
by  which  they  are  not  only  up-heaved,  but  greatly  altered  in  texture 
at  the  line  of  junction.    One  of  these  consists  of  basalt,  which 
having  opposed  a  hard  front  to  the  beating  of  the  surf,  may  be  ob- 
served elevated  considerably  above  the  surrounding  strata.   It  ap- 
pears as  a  long  narrow  ridge,  about  two  feet  thick,  projecting  into 
the  sea,  and  distinguished  easily  at  a  distance  by  its  deep  black 
colour  ;  it  is  very  compact,  and  contains  crystals  of  augite.  Upon 
the  whole,  the  line  of  section  here  bears  the  most  striking  marks 
of  great  internal  disturbance— of  violent  injection  among  the  strata 
of  melted  subterranean  matter— and  of  the  existence  of  agencies 
which  have  long  ceased  to  act  in  this  quarter  of  the  globe.  Such 
as  delight  in  the  speculative  department  of  the  interesting  science 
of  geology,  will  find  on  this  coast  ample  materials  on  which  to  ex- 
ercise their  ingenuity,  nor  will  it  be  any  surprise  to  those  who  view 
nature  on  the  great  scale  to  find,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  pe- 
ninsula of  Fife  to  the  eastward  of  St  Andrews,  precisely  the  same 
class  of  phenomena  in  relation  to  the  same  class  of  rocks,  as  have 

been  noticed  above. 

The  shale  beds  contain  impressions  of  various  arundinaceous 
plants,  but  few  or  none  of  the  Filices,  so  beautifully  developed  on 
the  corresponding  deposit  at  Wemyss  and  Dysart.    Stems  and 
branches  of  trees  are  to  be  found  in  abundance  in  the  sandstone. 
At  Sauchur  Point,  a  beautiful  gem  is  met  with,  which  forms  an 
object  of  great  attraction  to  the  sea-bathers  who  resort  here  in 
summer.    It  is  of  a  deep  reddish  colour,  and  varies  from  the  size 
of  a  small  grain  to  that  of  a  garden  pea.  It  is  usually  denominat- 
ed "  the  Elie  Ruby,"  being  confined  to  this  parish,  and,  indeed,  to 
the  narrow  headland  of  Sauchur  point ;  but,  mineralogically  con- 
sidered, it  belongs,  we  believe,  to  the  garnet  fomily  of  gems,  and 
of  these  ranks  among  the  precious  class.    It  is  allied  to  the  car- 
buncle of  the  ancients,  and  by  modern  mineralogists  is  termed  Jl- 
mandine.    Its  component  parts  are  silex,  alumine,  and  oxide  of 
iron.    It  does  not  appear,  so  far  as  can  be  detected,  to  be  an  m- 
gredient  of  any  of  the  rocks  in  the  neighbourhood,  at  least  such  as 


ELIE. 


285 


are  visible  above  the  surface  of  the  sea.  It  is  usually  washed  up 
after  high  winds,  and  is  found  among  the  gravel  on  the  beach. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Eminent  Persons. — This  is  a  production  in  which  the  parish  does 
not  appear  to  be  very  prolific. 

Family  of  Anstrutlier. —  One  of  the  family  of  Anstruther  was 
raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  Lord  of  Session  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne.  The  first  baronet  of  the  race,  Sir  Wilham  Anstruther, 
was  also  member  for  the  county  of  Fife  in  Parliament,  during 
the  administration  of  the  Duke  of  York,  1681;  and  joined  in  op- 
position to  the  court  measures  of  that  period.  It  appears  that  he 
also  represented  this  county  from  1682  to  1709,  and  that  he  took 
an  active  part  in  the  proceedings — those  more  particularly  for  se- 
curing and  establishing  the  Protestant  rehgion,  and  the  govern- 
ment, laws,  and  liberties  of  the  kingdom.  In  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne  he  was  in  high  favour.  Report  says,  that  she  offered  him 
either  a  captaincy  of  Dragoons,  or  the  gown  of  a  judge  in  the 
Court  of  Session,*  and  that  he  preferred  the  latter — being  less 
laborious,  and  better  paid.  If  we  may  trust,  however,  to  some  lines 
that  are  in  the  mouth  of  the  people,  his  legal  knowledge  was  not 
held  in  very  high  estimation. 

But,  besides  this  office,  he  received  more  substantial  proofs  of  the 
Queen's  favour,  having  got  a  charter  of  the  baronies  of  Anstruther 
and  Ardross,  with  many  other  lands,  and  also  the  heritable  bailerie 
of  the  lordship  and  regality  of  Pittenweem,  with  the  offices  of  Search- 
er, and  giving  cockets  for  the  ports  of  Anstruther  and  Elie.  The 
same  charter  constitutes  him  heritably  one  of  the  cibo  cidcp,  or  car- 
vers,— an  office  which  his  descendant,  the  present  Baronet,  continues 
to  hold.  We  find  that  he  also  aspired  to  literary  fame,  having  written 
a  volume  entitled  "  Essays  Moral  and  Divine."  It  was  published 
at  Edinburgh,  1701,  in  4to.  There  is  reason,  however,  to  doubt 
whether  it  wejs  c;dculated  to  do  him  much  honour,  as  his  friends 
did  all  in  their  power  to  dissuade  him  from  publishing  it ;  and  af- 
ter* his  death,  his  son  bought  up  every  copy  that  could  be  found,  for 
the  purpose  of  suppressing  the  work. 

A  descendant  of  his,  Sir  John  Anstruther,  wrote  a  work  on  drill 

"  There  seems  to  be  little  similarity  betwixt  tlie  two  offices.  But  yet  the  rumour 
mriy  not  be  without  a  sjjrinkling  of  truth,  as  he  appears  to  have  entered  public 
life  as  a  soldier.  He  had  a  command  in  the  royal  army  when  it  marched  into 
England,  and  was  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Worcester,  and  a  fine  of  1000  inerks 
imposed  upon  him  by  Cromwell,  and  his  estate  sequestrated;  which  act  of  sequestra, 
tion  was  only  taken  off  at  the  Restoration. 


286 


FIFESHIRE. 


husbandry.  It  is  understood  to  have  been  useful  at  the  time  that 
it  was  published,  and  not  without  merit;  although,  from  the  im- 
provements that  have  since  taken  place  in  agriculture,  it  is  not  now 
in  much  request.  It  continues  to  be  remembered  chiefly  from  a 
hon  mot  connected  with  it.  On  its  appearance,  one  of  Sir  John's 
friends  jocularly  remarked,  that  no  one  could  be  better  qualified  to 
write  on  the  subject,  as  there  was  not  a  better  drilled  husband  in 
the  whole  of  Fife.  Lady  Anstruther,  who  was  a  very  superior 
woman,  seems  to  have  had  a  considerable  influence  with  her  lord. 
Another  Sir  John  Anstruther,  father  of  the  present  proprietor,  was, 
for  many  years,  one  of  the  Judges  in  the  Supreme  Court  at  Calcutta. 
The  probability,  therefore,  is  that  he  was  a  man  of  some  emi- 
nence, though  it  is  not  known  that  he  has  left  any  thing  behind 
him  as  a  proof  of  his  talents. 

Land-owners.— T\\eve  are  only  three  proprietors.  Of  these  Sir 
Windham  C.  Anstruther  is  the  principal.  About  7-9ths  of  the  pa- 
rish belong  to  him.  The  other  heritors  are,  John  Anstruther 
Thomson  of  Charleton,  and  William  Fortune  of  Muircambus. 
The  latter  has  rather  the  larger  valuation,  and  the  former,  although 
assessed  for  all  other  parochial  burdens,  pays  no  stipend  to  the  mi- 
nister.   All  of  them  have  much  above  L.  50  of  yearly  revenue. 

Parochial  Registers.— Whsit  can  be  said  perhaps  of  very  few  other 
parishes  in  Scotland,  registers  have  been  regularly  kept  in  Elie 
since  1639,  the  date  of  its  erection  into  a  parish.   There  is,  how- 
ever, one  small  chasm  in  them,  the  volume  which  began  with  1682, 
and  ended  at  1700,  having  been  lost.    They  still  contmue  to  be 
kept  with  great  regularity.    On  his  succeeding  to  the  cure,  the  pre- 
sent incumbent  found  occasionally  an  indisposition  to  register  the 
births  of  children,  arising  probably  from  the  fees  paid  on  the  occa- 
sion   But  he  laid  it  down  as  a  rule  not  to  baptise,  till  a  certificate 
of  registration  from  the  session-clerk  was  produced  ;  and  now  this 
is  so  well  understood- that  almost  no  one  thinks  of  speakmg  to  him 
on  the  subject,  till  this  preliminary  point  has  been  settled.   If  any 
are  too  poor  to  bear  the  expense,  the  session-clerk  either  gives  his 
labour  gratis,  or  is  remunerated  by  the  session.  At  the  same  time, 
as  duri^cT  the  last  five  years,  perhaps  for  many  before  that,  only  one 
child  of  a  dissenter  has  been  born  and  baptized  in  the  parish,  and 
its  name  is  also  inserted  in  the  book,  the  lists  are  as  nearly  com- 
plete as  can  be  supposed.    The  minutes  of  session  also  exist  for 
he  same  period,  and  with  the  same  exceptions.    During  the  early 
period  thev  bear  evidence  of  an  inquisition  mto  the  manners  of  the 


KLIK. 


287 


people  which,  it  may  be  doubted,  whether  it  ever  was  for  edifica- 
tion. The  spirit  at  least  of  our  days  would  not  bear  it;  and  com- 
paring the  state  of  morality  then,  with  that  which  exists  now,  we 
do  not  seem  to  be  far  behind  what  is  commonly  considered  the 
hioh  and  palmy  days  of  the  church. 

Antiquities. — There  are  no  antiquities  in  the  parish,  nor  yet  any 
modern  buildings  worthy  of  notice.  Elie  House  might  easily  be 
rendered  an  elegant  mansion,  and  the  grounds  about  it  seem  to 
have  been  laid  out  with  considerable  taste.  But  as  the  proprie- 
tor never  resides  there,  and  as  there  are  no  funds  to  keep  them  in 
proper  order,  both  are  fast  going  to  decay. 

III. — Population. 

In  181 1,  -  883 

]821,  -  990 

1830,  -  1073 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish  about  -  -  250 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  30 

in  trade,  &c.       -  .  ]  lo 

in  other  ways,  -       -  \\Q 

Average  number  of  births  for  last  4  years,  .  -  _  25^ 

of  marriages,  -  -  -  g 

of  deaths,  according  to  an  account  kept  by  the  grave-digger,  16 
By  which  number,  if  we  should  divide  the  gross  amount  of  the 
population,  it  will  give  the  length  of  a  generation  sixty-five 
years.    This  speaks  much  for  the  healthiness  of  the  place. 
Number  of  unmarried  men  (bachelors)  above  45,  -  -  4 

of  unmarried  women  above,  -  -  -  -  45 

Widows  and  widowers  are  not  included. 
About  fifty  years  ago,  when  the  population  was  only  620,  the  average 

number  of  births  was,  -  .  .  _  22f- 

of  deaths,  -  .  -  _  1 7i 

of  marriages,  -  -  -  75. 

Much  about  the  same  that  it  is  now  when  there  is  an  increase  of  about  400  in  the 
population.    1  cannot  attempt  to  say  how  this  fact  is  to  be  explained. 

Within  the  last  three  years  there  has  been  one  illegitimate  birth. 
For  two  years  and  upwards  there  have  been  none. 

Character  and  Manners  of  the  people. — The  inhabitants  are  in 
general  industrious  and  sober,  regular  in  their  observance  of  the 
ordinances  of  religion,  and  there  are  few  places  where  the  Sabbath 
is  more  becomingly  and  devoutly  observed.  It  is  no  doubt  true, 
that  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  some  are  neither  so 
strict  in  their  attendance  in  public  worship,  nor  so  correct  in  their 
habits  as  might  be  wished ;  and  what  appears  strange  is,  that  the 
exceptions  to  the  prevailing  decorum  are  chiefly  to  be  found  among 
the  female  part  of  the  population.  The  number,  however,  is 
small ;  and  while  the  old  are  dying  out,  we  are  not  aware  that  any 
of  the  young  are  addicting  themselves  to  the  same  disorderly  prac- 
tices. It  has  often  been  remarked  by  strangers  that  on  Sundays 
the  church,  from  the  cleanliness  of  the  people,  and  in  many  in- 


288 


FIFESIIIRE. 


Stances  the  handsomeness  of  their  dresses,  presents  much  of  the 
appearance  of  a  city  congregation. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture.— In  the  parish  there  are  1570  imperial  acres.  Of 
these,  about  56  have  never  been  cultivated,  and  are,  indeed,  inca- 
pable'of  improvement :  50  acres  more  are  under  wood,  consisting 
chielly  of  beech  and  Scotch  fir.  There  will  of  course  remain  1464, 
which  are  fit  for  the  plough,  and  in  a  state  of  cultivation.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  to  ascertain  the  annual  rental  of  the  whole ;  for 
a  considerable  part  of  it  being  estimated  in  grain,  varies  according 
to  the  fiar  prices  of  the  county.  The  rent,  however,  may  be  stat- 
ed at  from  L.  1  to  L.  4  per  acre,  according  to  quality— the  average 
of  that  which  is  cultivated  being  nearly  L.  1,  15s.,  so  that  the  whole 
rental,  as  nearly  as  can  be  calculated,  may  be  about  L.  2562. 

Produce.— The  price  of  grain  raised  yearly  may  be  much  as  fol- 
lows .  Wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  beans,       -       L.  2500 
Potatoes  and.  turnips,  -  -  '/"^ 

Pasture,  -  "  "  _ 

L.  5200 

So  that  the  proportion  of  the  rental  to  the  produce  seems  to  be 
greater  in  this  parish  than  in  most  others  that  have  yet  been  men- 
tioned in  the  Statistical  Account.  Indeed,  the  rent  is  considered 
bv  the  best  judges  to  be  too  high  ;  and  this  again  arises  from  the 
pdncipal  proprietor  being  non-resident,  and  the  management  bemg 
in  the  hands  of  those  whose  only  object  is  to  lay  their  hands  on  all 
the  money  they  can  get.    Grazing  of  an  ox  or  cow,  L  3. 

Of  the  farm-buildings  the  generality  are  good,  and  there  s  no 
part  of  the  county  where  the  farmers  themselves  are  more  s^cilful 
than  in  the  surrounding  district.    The  fences,  ^        are  cl^^^^^^ 
hedge  and  ditch,  are  in  very  bad  order.    Very  httle  of  the  land  is 
capable  of  being  properly  enclosed,  or  a  greater  portion  of  it  wouW 
be  in  pasture.    Leases  run  from  seven  to  nineteen  years.  Any 
thina  less  than  nineteen  is  considered  to  be  a  great  bar  to  improve- 
menl  and  to  be  equally  unfavourable  to  landlord  and  tenant.  \et 
2e  leases  of  the  chief  estate  are  only  for  seven,-an  arrangement 
for  which  I  never  heard  any  good  reason  attempted  to  be  given. 
Notwithstanding,  however,  of  all  these  disadvantages,  and  the  dis- 
tressed state  of  agriculture  for  some  years  past,  the  farmers  all  seem 
tn  be  in  very  comfortable  circumstances. 

jYages.-  ^'^gos  of  ploughmen  may  be  stated  at  an  avenige  of  L.  1 0 


ELI12. 


289 


per  atuuim,  wlien  they  are  unmarried  and  boarded  in  their  master's 
house.  If  they  are  married,  the  money  may  be  much  the  same  ; 
and  a  house,  wkh  an  allowance  of  meal,  potatoes,  &c.  is  given  in 
place  of  board.  The  yearly  wages  of  a  woman-servant  may  vary 
from  L.  5  to  L.  6.  This  year,  they  are  on  the  increase — the  flou- 
rishing state  of  trade  having  withdrawn  many  hands  from  field  la- 
bours, and  thus  limited  the  supply. 

i^/sAe?-zes.— Eastward  at  St  Monance,  Pittenweem,  and  Cellar- 
dyke,  sea-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent— the  Edinburgh 
and  Cupar  markets,  with  many  others,  deriving  their  principal  sup- 
ply of  haddock,  cod,  turbot,  &c.  from  that  quarter.  In  Elie,  there 
are  few  fishermen, — scarcely  more  than  are  necessary  to  provide  for 
the  consumption  of  the  village.    But  we  have  generally  a  suffi- 
cient supply  of  fish,  excellent  in  quality,  and  in  the  best  state,  which 
forms  for  the  poor  especially,  a  cheap  and  healthy  article  of  food. 
V, — Parochial  Economy. 
Market-Town.~Wie  is  a  burgh  of  barony.    No  market,  how- 
ever, is  held  in  it,  although,  if  the  projected  improvements  on  the 
harbour  should  take  place,  the  probability  is,  that  one  both  for 
grain  and  cattle  would  be  immediately  established :  nor  would  any 
place  be  more  central  for  a  large  district  of  country.    The  nearest 
market-town  is  Colinsburgh,  at  the  distance  of  twomilesand  a-half; 
Cupar,  the  county  town,  is  fifteen  miles  from  us ;  St  Andrews,  the 
seat  of  a  university,  thirteen  ;  and  Anstruther  five. 

Means  of  Comm7imcation.— There  is  a  post-office  in  the  vil- 
lage.   It  is  a  sub-office  to  that  at  Colinsburgh.    The  post  ar- 
rives at  eight  every  morning,  and  departs  betwixt  six  and  seven 
in  the  evening.    Much  might  be  done  for  equalizing  the  rates 
of  postage— great  anomalies  existing  in  that  respect.    A  turn- 
pike road  runs  through  the  whole  extent  of  the  parish.  Toll- 
bars  in  abundance.   If  I  go  to  Pittenween,  a  distance  of  four  miles, 
I  have  two  to  pay.    If  I  travel  in  the  opposite  direction  to  Kirk- 
aldy,  I  have  three ;  whereas  the  neighbouring  parish  to  the  east 
though  at  a  greater  distance,  has  only  two.    There  is  a  coach  that 
passes  and  repasses  daily  in  connection  with  the  steam-boat  betwixt 
Layo  and  Newhaven.    But  the  great  channel  of  communication 
IS  the  sea.  We  have  two  regular  packets  that  sail  weekly  to  Leith 
-exporting  the  produce  of  the  land,  and  importing  those  articles 
ot  merchandize  which  are  requii-ed  for  the  consumption  of  the 
neighbourhood.    Steam,  however,  is  the  chief  agent,  and  nothing 
has  done  more  for  opening  up  the  coast  of  Fife  than  the  application 
ot  It  to  sailing  vessels.  Besides  the  boat  already  mentioned,  which 


FIFE. 


290 


FIFESHIRE. 


in  summer  sails  twice  a  day  from  the  Chain  Pier  at  Trinity  to 
Largo,  the  Aberdeen  and  Dundee  steam-vessels  daily  visit  us  twice, 
and  occasionally  three  times,  both  going  and  returning.  And  were 
the  harbour  repaired,  it  is  supposed  that  a  direct  steam  communi- 
cation would  be  established  betwixt  this  place  and  London. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  church  is  most  conveniently  situated, 
being  built  in  the  middle  of  the  village  where  the  great  body  of 
the  people— nearly  1000— reside.   Of  the  remaining  fifty  or  sixty, 
none  are  above  two  miles  distant,  and  the  roads  are  good  in  all 
directions.  The  writer  does  not  know  when  it  was  originally  budt,* 
probably  when  the  parish  was  first  erected— but  it  underwent  a 
complete  repair  in  1831,  and  is  now  surpassed  by  none  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. Although  simple,  it  has  an  air  of  elegance  which  strikes 
the  stranger;  and  it  could  scarcely  have  been  made  more  com- 
fortable either  for  the  speaker  or  the  hearer.  Being  seated  for  near- 
ly 600,  it  can  easily  accommodate  more  than  the  half  of  the  gross 
population.    The  consequence  is,  that,  there  being  room  enough, 
the  people,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  attached  to  the  Estabhsh- 
ment    Perhaps  it  would  have  been  as  well,  in  repairing  the  church, 
to  have  added  to  its  size  ;  for  although  there  is  sufficient  accom- 
modation at  present,  no  allowance  is  made  for  any  mcrease  of 
numbers.   As  the  seats  are  divided  among  the  heritors,  they  have 
allotted  part  of  them  to  their  tenants  and  families,  and  the  rest 
are  let  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  village.    The  rent  may  be  con- 
sidered as  merelynominal-ls. yearly foreach  sttting-and  the  sum 
thus  raised  is  spent  in  purchasing  coals  for  the  poor  at  the  begm- 
ninff  of  winter.  Even  here,  however,  we  are  met  with  disadvantages, 
for  the  price  being  so  low,  families  are  anxious  to  have  a  whole 
pew  to  themselves,  and  would  often  pay  willingly  for  more  room 
than  they  can  occupy.    The  only  remedy  hitherto  found  for  this 
evil  is,  to  insist  that  those  who  rent  a  pew  shou  d  show  how  it  is 
to  be  filled.    In  the  galleries,  a  good  many  of  the  seats  are  tree 
The  manse  was  built  in  1824.    What  is  of  it  is  in  very  good 
repair.    Unfortunately,  however,  it  was  built  for  a  bachelor,  who 
could  not  get  it  made  small  enough  ;  and  the  consequence  is,  that 
it  is  not  «  competent"  for  the  accommodation  of  the  present  incum- 
bent and  his  family.  He  has,  therefore,  been  obliged  to  apply  for  an 

.  On  the  spire  there     the  f.no.J^„scnpt^^^  ^•nSif-de'tirElS 

suis  suHMHibus  rthf  Crch  ,.ay  have  been  built 

Baronettus  anno  ''•^l^^  ^Imst^^^^^^^  1^^  ^^^^  ^^^^ 

at  the  same  J^.Z  breavW       hundred  years  old.  But  there  is  no  reference 

insofaras^e  can  learu,  the  herUors  have 

never  had  any  books. 


ELIE.  291 

addition,  in  which  he  has  had  to  contend  with  the  agents  of  the 
principal  heritor,  who,  although  aware  of  the  existing  necessity, 
and  at  one  time  offering  of  their  own  accord  a  much  more  splen- 
did one  than  he  desired,  have  now,  for  some  cause  or  other,  given 
the  proposal  a  decided  opposition.    Still,  as  the  manse  was 
originally  built  without  the  sanction,  and  even  without  the  know- 
ledge, of  the  Presbytery,  being  consequently,  in  the  proper  sense 
of  the  word,  no  manse  at  all,  and  as  the  necessary  steps  have 
been  taken  to  obtain  what  is  wanted,  without  any  protest  or  inter- 
dict on  their  part,  he  doubts  not  that  he  will  succeed  in  attain- 
ing the  object.    The  glebe  consists  of  5  acres  ;  and  is  let  at 
L.  5,  15s.  6d.  per  acre — the  value  in  all  being  thus  L.  28,  17s.  6d. 
There  is  no  grass  glebe,  though  it  is  believed  that  the  right  to 
one  exists ;  but  it  has  never  yet  been  prosecuted. 

The  stipend  is  one  of  those  which  receive  aid  from  Government. 
It  consists  of  9  chalders  6  bolls  of  grain— of  which  there  are  3 
chalders  of  wheat,  and  4  and  2  bolls  of  oats,  the  remainder  being 
pretty  equally  divided  betwixt  barley  and  peas  and  beans.  The 
Government  allowance  is  L.  12,  14s.  8d.  But  even  when  all  is  ad- 
ded together,  the  stipend  of  the  present  incumbent,  since  he  suc- 
ceeded to  the  living,  has,  on  an  average,  been  L.21  below  the 
minimum.   He  believes  that  last  year,  owing  to  the  fiars  of  wheat, 
in  Fife  being  so  low,  he  may  boast  of  having  had  the  smallest 
stipend  in  Scotland. 

There  is  no  dissenting  place  of  worship  in  the  parish.  The 
number  of  individuals  who  are  members  of  any  dissenting  congre- 
gation does  not,  it  is  believed,  exceed  1 2.    Certainly  there  are  not 
more  than  15  j  and  these  are  divided  among  perhaps  half  a  dozen 
different  sects.    There  may  also  be  a  few  who  attend  the  mini- 
strations of  dissenters,  without  being  joined  in  communion  with 
them.    Both  members,  however,  and  occasional  hearers,  taken  to- 
gether, cannot  be  more  than  from  20  to  25.    We  find  also  two 
or  three  who  boast  of  attending  no  place  of  religious  worship  :  but 
all  the  rest  either  are,  or  profess  to  be,  attached  to  the  Establish- 
ed Church.    Divine  service  is  always  well  attended.    The  num- 
ber of  communicants  varies  from  330  to  380.    The  collections  at 
the  church  door  average  L.  30  per  annum.  We  have  no  Societies 
for  religious  purposes :  but  an  annual  collection  is  made  for  one 
orotherof  theobjects  which  the  General  Assembly  has  taken  under 
Its  patronage.    The  average  amount  may  be  about  L.  10.  Sir  W. 
U  Anstruther  is  patron  of  the  parish. 

Edmation.--ThQrG  are  what  may  be  called  three  schools  in.fhe 


292 


FIPESIIIRE. 


parish.  Of  tliese  the  parochial  is  the  chief.  In  it  leading,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic,  and  Latin  are  required  to  be  taugiit.  The  school- 
master's salary  is  the  maximum ;  and  his  income  as  session-clerk 
may  amount  to  betwixt  L,  6  and  L.  7.  The  fees  will  average 
L.  40 ;  and  besides  this,  he  is  in  the  habit  of  keeping  boarders, 
for  which  the  healthiness  of  the  situation  is  well  adapted.  The 
school-house  has  more  than  the  legal  accommodation,  but  the  gar- 
den is  deficient.  An  allowance  of  L.  2  is  made  in  place  of  what 
is  wanting.  One  of  the  other  schools  is  taught  by  a  female.  Be- 
sides reading,  sewing  forms  one  of  the  branches  of  education.  The 
third  is  very  trifling,  and  little  known  of  it.  But  about  fifty  boys 
and  girls  from  the  parish  attend  a  school  at  Earlsferry,  where  the 
wages  maybe  a  half-penny  per  week  cheaper.  All  appear  to  be  sen- 
sible of  the  advantages  of  knowledge  ;  and  there  is  nothing  which 
parents  labour  so  hard  to  procure  as  a  good  education  for  their 
children.  In  cases  where,  from  poverty,  nothing  can  be  spared  for 
this  object,  the  session  is  ready  to  give  assistance,  always  insisting, 
however,  that  the  parents,  if  possible,  shall  give  something — be  it 
ever  so  little.  There  are  none  above  fifteen  years  of  age  who  can. 
not  read.  Perhaps  a  very  few  old  people  may  be  unable  to  write ; 
but  all  betwixt  five  and  fifteen  can  either  read  and  write,  or  are 
learning  to  do  so. 

Library.— A  subscription  library  has  existed  in  the  village  for 
a  considerable  period.  It  contains  some  hundreds  of  volumes  on 
the  various  branches  of  literature  and  divinity.  New  books  of 
merit  are  constantly  added  as  the  state  of  the  funds  will  admit. 
But  as  the  yearly  payment  is  small,  and  the  number  of  the  sub- 
scribers not  great,  it  does  not  increase  so  fast  as  might  be  desired. 

Friendhj  Societies.— The  only  institution  of  this  kind  is  what  is 
called  the  Sea  Box,  an  association  of  masters  of  vessels  and  sea- 
men for  their  mutual  benefit.  It  lately  obtained  a  charter  from 
the  King,  conferring  on  it  all  the  usual  privileges  of  a  corporation; 
and,  as  its  income,  arising  from  land,  houses,  &c.  is  large,  and  the 
number  of  widows  and  other  annuitants  small,  the  funds  are  in  a 
flourishing  state.  It  is  fitted  to  be  of  great  use  to  those  for  whom 
it  is  designed,  and  there  is  no  class  of  men,  perhaps,  that  require 
more  the  aid  of  such  institutions.  We  have  no  savings'  banks. 
And  I  know  not  that  this  is  much  to  be  regretted.  It  may  be 
doubted  whether  they  have  ever  been  of  much  advantage. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  average  number  of  persons 
on  the  poor's  roll  is  20  ;  of  these  some  receive  8s.  per  month  ; 
some  6s. ;  some  4p.  ;  and  some  as  low  as  2s.  6d.,  according  to  cir- 


ELIE. 


293 


cunistances.    Tlie  general  average  may  be  about  6s. ;  but,  besides 
this,  there  is  an  insane  person  to  be  maintained  in  the  Dundee 
asylum.    This  individual  does  not  belong  to  the  parish,  but  was 
forced  upon  us  by  a  very  rigorous  application  of  the  law  of  settle- 
ment.   We  have  also  the  family  of  a  man  who  died  of  cholera  to 
support.    To  meet  these  expenses,  there  are  the.  weekly  collec- 
tions, averaging  L.  30  per  annum,  L.  58  arising  from  land  vested 
in  the  minister  and  elders,  and  L.  15,  12s.,  being  the  interest  of 
money  accumulated  by  the  session,  and- lent  at  4  per.  cent,  to  the 
road  trustees— the  whole  amounting  to  upwards  of  L.  100.  From 
this  sum,  however,  there  fall  to  be  paid  half  of  the  session-clerk's 
salary,  together  with  that  of  the  precentor ;  what  is  necessary  for 
keeping  up  the  school  and  school-house,  and  the  fees  of  the  synod 
and  presbytery  clerk.    All  of  these  may  amount  to  L.  25,  leaving 
something  short  of  L.  80  for  the  use  of  the  poor.    Occasional  help 
is  also  given  to  those  who  are  verging  towards  poverty,  in  order 
to  keep  them  as  long  as  possible  from  becoming  actual  paupers. 
Some  houses  belonging  to  the  session  are  also  given  to  the  poor 
rent  free.    The  collections  at  the  church  door  are  not  so  liberal 
as  they  might  be,  owing,  principally,  we  believe,  to  a  foolish  notion, 
that  any  deficiency  must  come  upon  the  heritors.    By  them,  how- 
ever, not  a  single  farthing  has  been  furnished  during  the  present 
incumbency  for  that  object.   All  of  them  are  non-resident.  This 
state  of  matters  will,  in  all  probability,  bring  on,  ere  long,  the  ne- 
cessity of  at  least  a  voluntary  assessment.    There  are  some  in- 
stances of  a  refusal  to  be  put  on  the  poor's  roll.    But  we  have 
met  with  Httle  of  that  Scottish  spirit  spurning  at  all  "assistance, 
which  history  or  tradition  records  as  having  once  existed. 

Inns.— On  coming  to  the  parish,  the  writer  found  no  less  than 
1 1  houses  where  spirituous  liquors  were  retailed.     The  num 
ber  IS  now  greatly  diminished.    At  present,  there  is  only  one  inn 
But  there  are  four  grocers,  each  of  whom  has  a  spirit  license  •  and 
what  IS  to  be  regretted,  they  all  retail  spirituous  liquors,  more  o^ 
ess,  m  their  back  shops  or  parlours.  Some  of  them,  we  know  dis- 
liking this  part  of  the  business,  are  endeavouring  to  curtail  'it  as 
much  as  possible ;  and  we  hope  that  all  will  come  in  time  to  see 
the  propriety  of  dropping,  what  we  should  imagine  could  not  be 
very  pleasant  to  themselves.    They  are  all,  however,  very  respec- 
able     We  never  hear  of  any  outrages  taking  place ;  and  it  is  sel- 
dom that  a  drunk  person  is  to  be  seen  on  the  street.    The  writer 
l.aving  been  at  some  pains  to  get  the  number  of  tippling-houses 
reduced,  he  must  do  the  licensing  magistrates  the  ju  tice  to  sav 


294 


FIl-'ESHIRE. 


that  they  were  at  all  times  ready  to  second  his  wishes.  Whether 
an  old  license  was  to  be  withdrawn,  or  a  new  one  to  be  withheld, 
they  at  once  gave  effect  to  his  request ;  and  he  doubts  not  that,  in 
other  places,  those  who  have  an  interest  in  putting  down  such  houses, 
will  find  thcin  equally  willing  to  forward  their  desires  by  their  au- 
thority and  power.  Nor  is  there  any  thing  that  would  tend  more 
to  the  improvement  of  the  manners  and  morals  of  the  people — 
drinking  being  the  cause  of  by  far  the  greater  part  of  the  mischief 
which  we  have  to  witness  and  lament. 

Puel — Coals  is  the  only  fuel  used  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
whole  district  abounds  in  this  valuable  mineral ;  and  it  is  wrought 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  village.  By  this  means, 
there  being  little  carriage,  the  expense  is  reasonable.  There  is, 
moreover,  a  good  deal  imported  in  winter  both  from  Newcastle  and 
from  Bridgeness,  near  Grangemouth.  The  price  of  the  former  is 
commonly  about  15s.  per  ton  ;  that  of  the  latter,  13s.  This  year 
both  will  be  considerably  higher.  Towards  the  new  year,  from 
sixty  to  eighty  cart  loads  are  distributed  among  the  poor,— many 
families  getting  them,  which  are  not  on  the  roll,  and  that  receive 
nothing  from  the  session  funds  in  the  course  of  the  year.  By  this 
means,  when  the  season  is  mild,  as  it  has  generally  been  of  late, 
the  people  are  well  off,  and  pass  the  winter  evenings  at  a  blazing 
fireside. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

All  accounts  agree  in  stating  that  a  great  improvement  has  taken 
place  in  the  parish,  since  the  period  of  the  last  Statistical  Account. 
By  the  new  system  of  agriculture,  and  especially  by  the  liberal 
employment  of  draining,  the  land  has  been  brought  into  the  highest 
state  of  cultivation  ;  and  grounds  which,  forty  years  ago,  would  have 
been  thought  good  for  nothing,  are  now  seen  waving  with  the 
richest  harvests.  The  houses  of  the  cottars,  we  believe,  are  equal 
to  what  those  of  the  farmers  were  then ;  and  the  mansions  of  the 
latter  surpass,  both  in  appearance  and  comfort,  such  as  the  smaller 
proprietors  formerly  possessed.  So  much  has  already  been  done 
for  the  progress  of  agriculture,  that  little  further  remains  to  be  ac- 
complished. The  comfort  and  happiness  of  the  labouring  classes 
might  no  doubt  be  promoted  by  a  better  education  than  they  used 
to  receive,  by  parents  accustoming  their  children,  from  infancy,  to 
habits  of  industry,  and  by  abstinence  from  the  use  of  ardent  spirits. 
There  is,  however,  an  evident  improvement  going  on  both  in  their 
religious  feelings,  and  in  their  moral  conduct. 

December  1836. 


PARISH  OF  ANSTRUTHER  EASTER. 


TRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ROBERT  WILSON,  MINISTER.* 


I« — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Extent,  Boundaries,  ^c. — The  parish  of  Anstruther  Easter  ex- 
tends no  farther  than  the  limits  of  the  Royal  Burgh  of  the  same 
name,  and  has  no  landward  district  attached.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  west,  by  the  parish  of  Anstruther  Wester,  from  which  it  is  di- 
vided by  a  rivulet ;  on  the  north,  by  the  landward  district  of  the 
parish  of  Kilrenny;  on  the  east,  by  the  large  fishing  town  of  Cel- 
lardyke ;  and  on  the  south,  by  the  Frith  of  Forth.  The  town  is 
situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  small  bay,  from  the  west  headland  of 
which,  called  the  Billyness,  the  best  view  of  it  is  obtained.  It  has 
the  appearance  of  a  place  well  suited  to  the  purposes  of  trade. 
The  shore,  though  rugged  and  rocky,  affords  a  sufficiently  wide  en- 
trance to  the  harbour,  which  is  commodious  and  safe,  being  pro- 
tected by  a  natural  break-water,  as  well  as  an  excellent  quay, 
from  the  heavy  swell  occasioned  by  the  prevalence  of  south-east 
winds. 

Ciimate.— Along  the  east  coast  of  Fifeshire,  the  climate,  par- 
ticularly during  the  spring  months,  is  generally  cold,  and  is  reckoned 
very  prejudicial,  where  there  is  any  tendency  to  pulmonary  disease, 
cases  of  which  description  are  rather  numerous  in  this  place.  Apart 
from  this  peculiarity,  the  climate  is,  generally  speaking,  not  unfa- 
vourable to  health.  Epidemics  have  not  usually  been  very  fatal, 
and  during  the  prevalence  of  cholera  in  1832-33,  there  were  only 
a  very  few  instances  of  it  in  the  town.  From  its  nearness  to  the 
German  Ocean,  the  severity  of  the  winter  is  moderated,  the  snow 
seldom  lyuig  long  on  the  ground  ;  and  in  like  manner,  the  keenness 
of  the  sea-breeze  produces,  during  summer,  a  refreshing  coolness 
even  m  the  hottest  weather.  To  the  same  cause  is  usually  ascrib- 

•  Drawn  np  by  the  Rev.  David  Swan,  Assistant  to  the  minister  of  the  parish. 


•296 


FIFESHIRE. 


ed  the  scantiness  of  wood  in  the  district,  which  gives  it  a  bare  and 
uninteresting  appearance. 

Geology. — The  rocks  along  the  shore  are  chiefly  sandstone, 
and  are  used  in  building,  though  not  well  adapted  for  that  purpose, 
as  they  always  retain  a  certain  dampness,  which  indicates  itself 
even  in  some  houses  that  are  known  to  have  been  built  two  centu- 
ries ago.  The  dip  of  the  strata  is  towards  the  south-east.  There 
is  a  bank  covered  with  large  boulders,  apparently  of  granites,  im- 
mediately to  the  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  harbour.  The  town  it- 
self seems,  fiom  recent  excavations  made  in  building,  to  rest  on 
stratified  rocks  of  the  description  first  mentioned,  but  apparently 
softer,  and  overlaid  with  a  thick  bed  of  clay,  and  retentive  subsoil ; 
and  hence  the  water  derived  from  springs  is  what  is  called  hard, 
and  unfit  for  culinary  and  household  purposes,  until  filtered  and 
corrected  by  carbonate  of  soda. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Anstruther  Easter  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh,  by  a  charter 
of  James  VI.  dated  18th  December  1583.    It  does  not  hold 
burgage  of  the  Crown,  but  feu  of  the  family  of  Anstruther.  An- 
struther  Easter  was  at  one  time  possessed  of  lands  lying  near  to 
Kingsbarns.    The  magistrates  having  engaged  in  a  law-snit  with 
Sir  J.  Anstruther,  sold  their  lands  about  the  year  1770,  for  L.  500, 
to  pay  the  cost  of  the  action.  The  same  lands  have  since  been  sold 
for  L.  5000.    The  revenue  of  the  burgh  arises  chiefly  from  cus- 
toms, and  shore  or  harbour  dues,  &c.    It  has  fallen  off"  conside- 
rably since  1827.    In  the  year  ending  Michaelmas  1832,  it  was 
L.  78,  3s.,  and  at  the  same  period,  the  debts  due  by  the  burgh 
amounted  to  about  L.  485.  The  magistrates  levy  no  taxes,  except 
the  cess  due  to  government,  and  the  customs  and  shore  dues. 
They  have  the  usual  jurisdiction  of  magistrates  within  the  royalty. 
There  have  been  no  civil  causes  triad  in  the  Bailie  Court 
since  1820.    The  town  clerk  acts  as  assessor  to  the  magistrates, 
and  his  appointment  is  during  pleasure  of  the  magistrates  and  coun- 
cil.   They  appoint  the  burgh  schoolmaster,  procurator-fiscal,  and 
town-officer.    The  council  consists  of  nineteen  members,  includ- 
ing three  bailies  and  a  treasurer.  The  councillors  are  now  elected 
according  to  the  provisions  of  the  3  and  4  William  IV.  Like 
many  other  small  towns,  Anstruther  Easter  has  of  late  years  de- 
creased much  in  wealth  and  importance.     Though  it  is  still  the 
best  market-town  in  the  district,  its  decayed  condition  may  be 


ANSTUUTHER  EA8TEU. 


297 


judged  of  by  the  single  fact,  that  the  tonnage  belonging  to  the 
portj  at  the  date  of  the  former  Statistical  Account,  was  1400,  and  is 
now  only  964.  Capital  seems  to  be  flowing  steadily  to  the  larger 
towns,  and  with  it  of  course  that  part  of  the  population  which  can- 
not find  employment  here.  Accordingly,  the  value  of  property  is 
considerably  lowered,  and,  while  old  tenements  are  suffiered  to  fall 
mto  ruins,  the  number  of  new  erections  is  comparatively  small. 

In  the  year  1710  Anstruther  Easter  was  made  a  port,  and  a 
custom-house  established.  In  1827  it  was  made  a  sub-port,  com- 
prehending St  Andrews,  Crail,  Pittenweem,  St  Monance,  and 
Elie,  with  the  establishment  of  a  collector,  comptroller,  and  tide- 
waiter;  having  also  three  coast-waiters,  one  at  each  of  the  follow- 
ing places,  St  Andrews,  Crail,  and  Elie.  This  custom-house  can 
correspond  directly  with  the  Board  of  Customs  ;  but  the  accounts 
are  usually  transmitted  to  the  custom-house  at  Kirkaldy. 

Eminent  ikZew.— Anstruther  Easter  is  the  birth  place  of  the  Rev. 
Dr  Chalmers,  Professor  of  Divinity  in  the  University  of  Edin- 
burgh, and  of  that  eminent  oriental  scholar  Professor  Tennant  of 
St  Andrews. 

Parochial  Eegisters. — The  records  of  the  kirk-session  are  pre- 
served from  the  year  1 641,  down  to  the  present  time.  They  have 
been  carefully  kept,  and  are  very  legible.  The  register  of  bap- 
tisms during  the  same  period  is  also  preserved.  Of  marriages  the 
record  is  less  regular  and  entire. 

Ecclesiastical  History. — Previous  to  the  year  1636,  the  town  of 
Anstruther  Easter  formed  part  of  the  parish  of  Kilrenny.  At  that 
period,  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  parish,  and  a  church  built.  In 
the  year  1641,  the  first  minister  was  settled.  The  succession  of  mi- 
nisters down  to  the  present  time  seems  to  have  been  regular.  Their 
names  and  the  dates  of  their  ordination  or  induction  are  as  follows  : 
Colin  Adams  1641,  Edward  Thomson  1677,  William  MoncriefF 
1686,  William  Woodrop  1691,  James  Nairne  1710,  John  Nairne, 
his  son,  1764,  who  had  been  previously  assistant  and  successor  for 
twenty-one  years,  and  Robert  Wilson,  the  present  incumbent,  1796. 

The  session  records  bear  that  presbyterial  visitations  had  been 
occasionally  held  in  the  parish  in  former  times,  and  that  collec- 
tions were  sometimes  made  in  the  church  for  public  works  in  the 
neighbourhood,— in  one  instance  towards  the  erection  of  a  bridge  at 
St  Andrews.  They  are  chiefly  filled,  however,  with  accounts  of 
the  disbursement  of  money  to  the  poor,  to  church  ofiicers,  &c.  and 


298 


FIFESHIRE. 


with  the  administration  of  church  discipline  (to  those  guilty  of  im- 
moral conduct)  which  far  exceeded  in  minuteness  and  severity  the 
discipline  of  modern  times. 

III. — Population. 
For  a  great  length  of  time  the  population  of  the  parish  of  An- 


struther  Easter  has  varied  very  little. 

In  1744  it  was       .              .             .  1000 

1764          .                                 .  900 

At  the  date  of  former  Statistical  Account,  above  1000 

In  1831,          ,                 .             .  1007 

At  present  it  is  believed  that  the  number  is  considerably  below  1000 

The  average  number  of  baptisms  during  last  7  years  is,         .  16 

of  marriages,             do.           .  10 
No  accurate  record  of  the  number  of  deaths  has  been  kept. 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,           .           .                  .  255 


In  the  former  Statistical  Account  some  instances  of  great  age 
are  mentioned.  At  present  there  is  one  individual  in  the  parish  in 
her  ninety-third  year,  having  all  her  mental  faculties  in  full  vigour, 
and  able  to  attend  divine  ordinances  every  Sabbath. 

Of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parish  generally  it  may  be  said,  they 
are  intelligent,  but  the  vice  of  intemperance  is  by  no' means  rare. 
The  privilege  of  the  town  as  a  royal  burgh,  in  electing  a  repre- 
sentative to  Parliament,  jointly  with  four  other  towns  of  nearly  si- 
milar size,  has  been  against  the  morality  of  the  place,  and  it  may 
also  be  added  against  its  industry.  The  late  change  in  the  system  of 
election,  and  the  classing  of  this  with  the  large  and  populous  towns 
of  Cupar  and  St  Andrews  in  the  exercise  of  the  above  mentioned 
privilege,  have  already  sensibly  diminished  the  evils  alluded  to ; 
and  it  is  hoped  that  the  interruptions  to  regular  industry  will  be 
less  frequent,  and  the  temptations  to  immoral  conduct  less  abun- 
dant. Infidelity  has  prevailed  to  some  extent,  chiefly  through  the 
influence  and  example  of  one  or  two  individuals.  The  natural  con- 
sequence of  this  has  followed;  disrespect  to  religious  ordinances, 
and  neglect  of  the  moral  and  spiritual  interests  of  the  young.  It 
is  believed  that  worship  is  performed  in  comparatively  few  families. 
It  must,  however,  be  added,  that  there  is  a  large  body  of  the  inha- 
bitants of  this  parish,  whose  general  conduct  and  habits  entitle 
them  to  respect ;  and  that  there  are  a  few  who  afford  good  evi- 
dence of  being  actuated  by  the  spirit  and  the  principles  of  vital 
Christianity. 

IV. — Industry. 
Formerly  ship-building  was  carried  on  here  to  a  considerable 
extent ;  but  for  the  last  ten  years  it  has  entirely  ceased.    There  is 
a  tan-work  in  the  town,  at  which  a  considerable  quantity  of  leather 


ANSTRUTHER  EASTER.  299 

is  prepared,  also  a  brewery,  and  a  rope  and  sail-work.  The  proxi- 
mity of  the  large  fishing  town  of  Cellardyke  affords  facilities  for 
the  business  of  fish-curing.  About  600  barrels  of  cod  are  cured 
annually,  besides  great  quantities  of  herrings  in  the  month  of  Fe- 
bruary, when  a  shoal  usually  appears  at  the  mouth  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  and  every  person  fit  for  labour  finds  employment.  These 
are  exported  chiefly  to  the  West  India  market.  Considerable 
quantities  of  haddocks  are  smoked  for  the  home-market.  There 
are  at  present  six  fish-curers  in  the  town.  The  vessels  belonging 
to  the  port  are  eleven  in  number,  including  two  packets  which  sail 
weekly  to  and  from  Leith  ;  the  import  being  chiefly  goods  for  the 
merchants,  and  the  export,  grain  from  the  surrounding  district  of 
country.  A  weekly  corn-market  is  held  in  the  town  on  Saturday. 
The  number  of  shops  is  considerable,  greater  than  is  necessary  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  parish ;  but  they  are 
frequented  by  the  population  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  afford  at 
reasonable  prices  the  articles  required  for  household  use.  There 
is  a  mill  in  Anstruther  Easter  for  the  preparation  of  all  kinds  of 
meal. 

Wages. — Wages  are  according  to  the  rate  usually  given  in  the 
country,  and  vary  of  course  with  its  commercial  prosperity.  Those 
of  seamen,  from  L.  2  to  L.  2,  10s.  per  month  ;  ofwrights  about  3s. 
per  day ;  of  masons  2s.  in  winter,  and  2s.  6d.  in  summer  ;  of  day- 
labourers  from  Is.  6d.  to  2s. ;  of  women  employed  in  fish-curing 
l^d.  per  hour,  in  field  labour  Id.  per  hour. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Means  of  Communication. — There  is  a  post-office  in  the  town, 
(not  a  sorting  office.)  The  means  of  public  conveyance  are,  a  stage- 
coach, three  times  a-week,  to  Edinburgh,  by  way  of  Pettycur;  a  daily 
coach  to  the  same  city,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  by  way 
of  Largo ;  and  one  daily  to  and  from  St  Andrews.  A  branch  of  the 
National  Bank  of  Scotland  was  established  in  Anstruther  Easter  in 
May  1832.  The  number  of  tradesmen  is  very  considerable  :  bakers, 
5 ;  tailors,  5 ;  master-masons,  4 ;  blacksmiths,  3 ;  saddlers,  2  ; 
tinsmith  and  plumber,  1  ;  shoemakers,  9;  wrights,  5;  weavers,  6; 
butchers,  3;  watchmaker,  1;  bookbinder  and  stationer,  1.  There 
are  two  excellent  inns  in  the  town ;  houses  in  which  ale  and  spi- 
rituous liquors  are  sold,  13— a  number  far  too  great  for  the  wants 
of  the  inhabitants ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  they  have  exercised 
a  very  prejudicial  influence  on  their  morals,  by  affording  undue 
facilities  to  intemperance.    In  general,  it  may  be  observed,  that 


300  FIFESHIRE. 

the  necessaries  and  the  comforts  of  life  are  abundantly  furnished, 
and  at  a  reasonable  rate ;  and  that  the  expense  of  maintaining  a 
family  is  materially  lessened,  by  the  constant  and  large  supply  of 
fish,  brought  into  the  town  directly,  or  from  the  adjoining  fishing 
station  of  Cellardyke. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  most  conveniently  situated 
in  a  large  burying-ground,  which  is  surrounded  by  an  excellent 
wall.    It  was  built  in  1634;  the  spire  was  ten  years  later  in  being 
completed ;  and  within  it  is  the  bell  bearing  to  have  been  a  gift 
from  Andrew  Strang,  shipmaster.    The  roof  of  the  church  was 
repaired  many  years  ago ;  and  in  1834  it  underwent  a  thorough 
repair  internally,  being  entirely  re-seated  in  the  most  commodious 
form,  and  having  the  pulpit  placed  in  one  end  and  a  gallery  in  the 
other : — altogether,  it  is  now  probably  one  of  the  most  elegant 
country  churches  anywhere  to  be  seen.    It  was  originally  built  by 
subscriptions,  donations,  and  the  personal  labour  of  some  of  the 
parishioners  ;  and  has  been  upheld  out  of  the  seat  rent  fund,  care- 
fully husbanded  by  the  kirk-session.  The  late  repair  was  executed 
by  means  of  that  fund,  and  a  sum  borrowed  on  the  security  of  the 
seat  rents  ;  and  it  must  be  observed,  that,  there  being  no  heritors 
in  the  parish,  and  the  town  poor,  had  the  fund  alluded  to  not 
existed,  it  does  not  appear  how  that  repair  could  have  been  ef- 
fected.   And  it  must  also  be  stated,  to  the  credit  of  the  kirk- 
session,  that  they  resisted,  some  years  ago,  an  attempt  to  wrest 
from  them  the  management  of  the  seat-rents,  and  established  their 
right,  and  have  ever  exercised  it  in  a  manner  satisfactory  to  the 
whole  community.    The  church  is  now  seated  for  630 ;  the  high- 
est price  of  sittings  is  two  shillings,  and  the  lowest  ninepence 
each ;  the  free  sittings  are  intentionally  very  few,  that  the  indi- 
gent may  not  feel  themselves  degraded  to  the  level  of  absolute 
pauperism.    Within  the  church,  and  placed  in  the  south  wall,  is 
a  monument,  supposed  to  be  to  the  memory  of  one  of  the  former 
ministers  of  the  parish,  Mr  William  Moncrieff.    The  manse  was 
built  in  the  year  1590,  by  James  Melville,  the  nephew  of  the 
celebrated  Andrew  Melville,  whose  life  has  been  so  ably  written  by 
the  late  lamented  Dr  M'Crie.  At  that  period  the  worthy  and  pious 
James  Melville  had  the  pastoral  charge  of  what  have  long  since 
been  five  parishes,  viz.  Kilrenny,  Anstruther  Easter  and  Wester, 
Pittenweem,  and  Abercromby.  Having  succeeded  in  obtaining  nii- 
■  nisters  to  the  others,  he  devoted  himself  to  Kilrenny,  which  then 

4 


ANSTRUTHER  EASTER. 


301 


included  Anstruther  Easter.    In  his  Diary*  he  says,  "  that  the 
parishioners  of  Kilrenny  bound  themselves  to  build  him  a  house, 
upon  a  piece  of  ground  which  die  Laird  of  Anstruther  gave  freely 
for  that  purpose ;  but  he  adds,  it  would  never  have  been  perfected, 
unless  the  bountiful  hand  of  his  God  had  made  him  take  the  work 
in  hand  himself."  The  town  and  landward  parish  scarcely  afforded 
half  of  the  building  materials ;  the  remainder  of  the  expense  he 
bore  himself, — the  whole  cost  of  the  erection  being  upwards  of 
3500  marks,  or  about  L.  190  Sterling.    It  remains  to  this  day, 
with  very  few  alterations,  and  these  only  in  the  interior,  if  we 
except  a  paltry  addition  made  to  it  by  a  former  minister,  not  at 
all  in  the  substantial  style  of  the  original  building.    The  situation 
is  remarkably  well  chosen ;  the  walls  are  of  great  thickness  ;  the 
lower  story  consists  of  three  vaulted  cellars ;  the  ceiling  of  the 
apartments  in  the  second  storey  is  as  lofty  as  in  most  modern  build- 
ings ;  that  of  the  third  much  less  so.    A  staircase,  in  the  form  of 
a  round  tower,  is  carried  up  the  whole  height  of  the  building,  at 
the  top  of  which  there  is  a  small  apartment,  commanding  a  very 
fine  prospect,  and  having  on  the  outside,  chiselled  in  stone,  these 
words—"  The  Watch  Tower."    This  manse,  at  present  far  infe- 
rior to  modern  manses,  might,  with  a  judicious  repair,  be  made  a 
most  commodious  dwelling,  and  might  remain  for  generations  a 
monument  of  the  judgment  and  liberality  of  one  who,  during  his 
harassed  life,  was  scarcely  permitted  to  occupy  it  for  any  length  of 
time  together.    It  is  ascertained  that  the  burden  of  upholding  the 
manse  lies  upon  the  town. 

There  is  no  glebe,  properly  so  called,  belonging  to  the  minis- 
ter of  the  parish  of  Anstruther  Easter.  The  land  which  goes 
under  that  name,  about  nine  acres,  is  a  mortification  as  part  of 
stipend,  which  is  made  up  of  several  smaller  mortifications;  the 
tithes  f. of  fish  brought  into  port;  a  grant  of  part  of  the  bishop's 
rents  out  of  the  lands  of  Kilrenny ;  and  a  sum  from  the  Ex- 
chequer,—the  amount  of  the  whole  may  be  estimated  at  nearly 
L.  200  per  annum. 

The  outward  means  of  spiritual  improvement  afforded  to  the 
parishioners  are,  public  worship  on  the  Sabbath,  forenoon  and 

•  The  Diary  of  James  Melville  was  published  in  1829,  by  the  Bannatvne  Club 
from  a  manuscript  in  the  Advocates'  Library.  -oannatyne  Llub, 

t  The  right  to  the  tithes  of  fish  was  purchased  by  James  Melville-  and  such  wis 
their  value  in  his  time,  that  he  deemed  them  sufficient  to  afTord  a  erinanent  st  ul.'^ 
to  the  minister  of  the  parish.    Now,  however,  the  tithes  are  with  d  S  y  olTX^^^ 

yei'jLltele.'^"^"''""''''^''  P-*'  they  hav^  for  mtny 


302 


FIFESHIRE. 


afternoon,  and  occasionally  also  in  the  evening ;  the  yearly  ce- 
lebration of  the  Lord's  Supper  in  the  month  of  May  ;  a  Sab- 
bath evening  school ;  prayer  meetings  held  once  in  two  months ; 
and  the  usual  visitations  of  the  sick  by  the  minister.  The  average 
yearly  number  of  communicants  for  the  first  time  is  about  9. 
The  communicants,  in  all,  are  about  330 ;  of  whom  85  are  on 
the  roll  as  male  heads  of  families,  according  to  the  General  As- 
sembly's act  on  Calls.  The  probable  average  amount  of  extra- 
ordinary collections  made  in  the  church,  for  charitable  and  mis- 
sionary purposes,  is  L.  8  annually.  A  Bible  and  Missionary  So- 
ciety, composed  of  members  belonging  to  the  Established  Church 
in  the  parishes  of  Anstruther  and  Kilrenny,  has,  since  its  forma- 
tion three  years  ago,  distributed  yearly  to  various  missionary  objects 
about  L.  18. 

There  are  three  Dissenting  meeting-houses  in  this  parish- 
Burgher,  Independent,  and  Baptist.  The  families  connected  with 
them,  belonging  to  the  parish,  are,  in  all,  about  thirty-three.  There 
is  also  a  Bible  and  Missionary  Society,  composed  of  members  be- 
longing to  the  different  denominations  of  Dissenters,  whose  funds 
are  believed  to  be  considerable. 

Education.— There  is  only  one  school  in  the  parish,  the 
parochial  or  burgh  school.  The  branches  taught  are,  readmg, 
writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  and  occasionally  Latin.  The  average 
number  of  scholars  attending  the  school  is  about  80.  The  school- 
house  is  upheld  by  the  town,  as  also  the  teacher's  dwelhng-house, 
which  has  a  good  garden  attached,  and  was  lately  rebuilt.  The 
teacher  is  appointed  by  the  Town- Council,  and  he  has  no  other 
salary  than  L.  5,  6s.  8d.  per  annum  derived  from  the  town.  There 
are  two  mortifications,  Henderson's  and  Walker's,  of  L.  4  and  L.  2 
respectively,  on  the  former  of  which  a  number  of  poor  children  are 
educated. 

Friendly  Societies.— \.  The  Sea  Box  Society  was  formed  in  1618, 
and  incorporated  by  royal  charter  in  1784.  The  funds  were 
originally  raised  by  a  subscription  of  8d.  in  the  pound  of  ship- 
masters and  seamen's  wages  ;  latterly  by  one  guinea  from  masters, 
and  six  shillings  from  seamen ;  annually.  The  rent  of  lands  m 
the  possession  of  the  society  amounts  to  about  L.390  per  annum, 
out  of  which,  provision  is  made  for  decayed  shipmasters  and  sea- 
men belonging  to,  or  trading  from  the  port,  their  widows,  and 
children,  and  grandchildren  if  orphans.  The  management  is 
vested  in  the  shipmasters,  who  choose  a  box-master  and  clerk  and 


ANSTRUTHER  EASTER. 


303 


factor.  The  accounts  are  audited  by  the  representative  of  the 
Anstruther  family  or  by  the  minister  of  the  parish,  or  both.  This 
society  is  of  great  benefit  to  the  parish. 

2.  The  Trades  Box,  or  Burgess  and  Trades  Poor- Box  Society 
possesses  land,  originally  purchased  with  money  accumulated  from 
donations,  mortcloth  dues,  &c.  There  is  no  annual  subscription. 
It  affords  aid  chiefly  to  aged  and  infirm  freemen,  whether  residing 
in  the  town  or  not,  and  occasionally  to  those  disabled  by  sickness. 
Its  affairs  are  managed  by  a  committee. 

Besides  these  two,  there  are  four  other  societies,  that  administer 
relief  to  their  members  in  sickness  and  in  old  age,  and  also  to 
their  widows,  and  sometimes  to  their  children.  They  are,  1.  the 
Merchant  Mechanic  Box ;  2.  St  Aile's  Lodge  of  Free  Masons  ;  3. 
the  Friendly  Society ;  4.  the  Caledonian  Gardeners'  Lodge. 
They  are  all,  so  far  as  we  can  learn,  under  good  management,  and 
are  of  great  service  to  many  under  the  casualties  of  life. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — An  assessment  for  the  poor  has 
never  been  resorted  to  in  this  parish.  The  number  of  the  poor 
regularly  receiving  aid  from  the  kirk-session  funds  is  18,  and  the 
average  sum  allotted  to  each  per  week  is  one  shilling.  The  funds 
for  this  purpose  arise  from  the  contributions  at  the  church  door, 
which  amount  weekly  to  8s.  6d. ;  from  the  rent  of  lands  in  the 
parishes  of  Pittenweem  and  Anstruther  Wester,  mortified  for  the 
behoof  of  the  poor,  and  amounting  to  L.  34,  10s.  An  annual  col- 
lection is  made  in  the  church,  in  the  month  of  December,  for  the 
purpose  of  providing  clothing  to  the  poor,  and  usually  amounts 
to  L.  3.  Besides  this,  about  the  same  period  of  the  year,  a  sub- 
scription is  made  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  to  procure  a  sup- 
ply of  coals  for  the  poor,  averaging  L.ll.  A  female  society  was 
established  this  year,  for  aiding  the  destitute,  and  at  present,  6d. 
per  week  to  each  of  sixteen  poor  people  is  distributed  from  its 
funds.  On  the  whole,  the  provision  for  the  poor  in  this  place  ap- 
pears ample,  (subject  of  course  to  the  usual  burdens  that  fall  on 
the  funds  under  the  management  of  kirk-sessions,  such  as  salaries 
to  church  officers,  aliment  to  illegitimate  or  deserted  children,  and 
relief  to  the  occasional  poor,)  and  the  idea  of  levying  an  assesment 
on  householders  never  having  been  entertained,  there  is  not  that 
haste  in  applying  for  relief  amongst  the  poor,  which  is  said  to 
exist  in  many  parishes  in  Scotland. 

January  1837. 


PARISH  OF  CAMERON. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  THOMAS  ADAMSON,  A.  M.  MINISTER. 


I  Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  Boundaries,  §-c.-Cameron  became  a  separate  and  in- 
dependent  parish  at  a  comparatively  modern  date.  It  anciently 
formed  part  of  the  widely  extended  parish  of  St  Andrews.  The 
following  is  from  the  presbytery  records  :  "  March  12th  1645,  the 
which  day  was  produced  to  the  presbytery  the  act  of  Parliament 
for  erecting  the  kirk  of  Cameron  in  a  parish,  and  designing  a 
maintenance  thereto,  which  diligence  is  approven  of  by  the  pres- 
bytery, and  the  parishioners  there  are  seriously  desired  to  concur 
with  the  presbytery,  to  whom  the  right  of  patronage  belongs,  to 
condescend  upon  a  man  for  filling  that  place."  On  the  6th  of  May 
the  following  year,  that  is,  about  fourteen  months  after  the  pro- 
ducing of  the  act  of  Parliament,  Mr  George  Nairne  was  admitted 
to  the  "  new  erected  kirk  of  Cameron."  ,       ,    .  e 

The  name  of  the  parish  was  most  probably  taken  from  the  farm  of 
Cameron,  upon  which  the  manse  and  church  were  built.  Ihere 
is  a  disposition  by  Andro  Law,  citiner  of  St  Andrews,  of  certain 
«  five  aikers  of  his  lands  of  Cameron,  for  founding,  erecting, 
causing  build  ane  kirk  and  kirk  yard,  with  ane  manse  for  the  mi- 
nister, serving  the  cure  thereat  (viz.  Cameron:)  it  is  dated  the 

<'  twentie  day  of  June  1642."  , .  ■    i  ^^ 

The  parish  is  of  the  figure  of  a  parallelogram,  and  is  in  length, 
from  east  to  west,  between  5  and  6  miles,  and  in  breadth  about  4. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of  St  Andrews;  on  the 
east,  by  Denino ;  on  the  south,  by  Carnbee  and  Kilconquhar ;  and 

on  the  west,  by  Ceres.  - 

Topoqraphical  Jppearances.-The  parish  is  undulating  in  its 
appearance;  the  ground  rises  from  the  north  to  the  south  boiin- 
darv,  by  a  succession  of  gentle  elevations,  running  nearly  pa. allel 
to  one  another  from  east  to  west,  with  rivulets  flowing  between 
them     The  only  hill  is  Drumcarro  Craig,  situated  m  the  north- 


CAMEIION. 


305 


west  part  of  the  parish,  which  is  composed  of  whiiistone  rock,  with 
generally  a  thin  covering  of  soil ;  but  in  many  places  nothing  but 
the  bare  rugged  rock  is  to  be  seen. 

Hydrography.~T\\e  parish  is,  for  the  most  part,  well  supplied 
with  perennial  springs  of  excellent  water,  some  of  which  issue  from 
whinstone  or  freestone  rock,  others  from  sand. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. —In  almost  every  part  of  the  parish,  either 
coal,  freestone,  trap,  whinstone,  or  limestone  may  be  found.  There 
is  at  present  good  coal  got  at  Drumcarro.    Limestone  is  wrought 
at  Radernie  and  at  Winthank.    The  lime  at  the  former  is  of  bet- 
ter quality  than  that  at  the  latter  place.   From  the  great  depth  of 
the  covering  now  above  the  rock  at  both  places,  the  limestone 
is  wrought  under  ground  by  boring  the  rock  and  blasting  it  with 
powder,  and  the  stone  carried  out  in  carts  to  the  kilns  ,•  but  at 
Radernie  a  rail-road  has  been  made  last  winter  from  the  rock  to 
the  kilns,  upon  which  the  limestones  are  drawn  in  waggons,  which 
is  a  great  saving  of  labour-    The  roof  is  found  to  stand  well,  and 
to  be  altogether  safe,  notwithstanding  the  blasting.  The  covering 
above  the  rock  is  of  the  thickness  of  35  feet,  30  feet  of  which  is 
composed  for  the  most  part  of  clay,  and  5  feet  of  bad  limestone. 
The  rock  itself  is  of  the  thickness  of  9  feet,  and  dips  in  a  norther- 
ly direction  one  foot  in  three.  The  trap  or  whinstone  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  finely  adapted  for  making  and  keeping  in  repair  the 
roads  in  the  district.    There  is  only  one  freestone  quarry  wrought 
for  sale  at  present,  in  the  parish  at  Hazzleden,— which  is  of  pretty 
good  quality  generally ;  but  there  are  a  great  many  wrought  by  the 
proprietors  and  tenants  for  building  and  making  drains.   There  is  a 
great  difference  of  soil  in  the  parish  ;  some  parts  of  it  is  composed  of 
clay,  others  of  black  earth,  with  a  retentive  substratum  ;  some  of  it 
is  a  poor  moorish  soil  recumbent  upon  tenacious  clay,  or  moor- 
band;  other  parts  are  of  a  dry  nature,  recumbent  upon  gravel  or 
upon  whinstone  rock.    In  general,  the  northern  and  lower  part  of 
the  parish  is  the  best,  though  in  the  southern  there  is  some  good 
land.  The  depth  of  soil  varies  from  two  inches  to  upwards  of  two  feet 
Botany.— Theve  has  been  a  good  deal  of  the  worst  laud  in 
the  parish  planted  with  larch,  Scotch,  and  spru.ce  firs,  within  the 
last  thirty  years,  which  greatly  improves  the  climate  and  appear- 
ance of  the  country.    In  general  they  seem  to  do  well  where  the 
soil  IS  of  moderate  depth,  and  not  very  wet ;  but  where  it  is  thin 
and  wet,  they  do  not  seem  to  thrive,  and  are  short  and  stunted 
Beech  seems  to  thrive  well  in  this  part  of  the  country  as  a  hed^e. 


FIFE.  jj 


306 


FIFESHIRE. 


but  tbere  is  bttle  of  it  planted  otberwise.    There  are  some  very 
fine  beech  hedges  on  the  grounds  of  Kinaldie  and  Latbockar. 
There  is  a  large  sycamore  plane  at  Priorletbam,  the  upper  branches 
of  which  are  now  considerably  decayed,  and  it  is  quite  rotten  into 
the  heart  in  some  places.  The  following  is  an  account  of  it  drawn 
up  by  Mr  Sang,  nurseryman,  Kirkaldy,  in  September  1818.  The 
Priorletbam  sycamore  plane-tree  grows  upon  a  rocky  knoll.  The 
shortness  of  its  bole,  the  great  spread  of  its  top,  and  its  general 
contour,  seems  to  indicate  that  it  has  been  alone  tree  from  its  infancy. 
Nevertheless,  though  it  has  been  deprived  of  the  shelter  which 
might  have  been  alforded  by  contiguous  trees,  it  has  grown  to  a 
great  size.    The  bole  is  12  feet  in  height.    The  girth  at  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  is  26  feet,  at  the  middle  15  feet  4  inches,  and 
at  the  upper  part,  from  whence  the  branches  are  set  forth,  it  also 
girths  26  feet.  The  principal  branches,  which  are  ten  in  number, 
are  like  so  many  considei%ble  trees,  some  of  them  being  2  feet 
diameter.    The  general  height  of  the  top  is  about  65  feet.  The 
diameter  of  the  circle  over  which  it  spreads  itself  is  90  feet.  A 
sycamore  in  such  a  situation,  and  under  such  circumstances,  will 
have  grown  well,  if  it  acquired  a  diameter  of  bole  of  2  feet  in  100 
years ;  and  if  we  calculate  its  increase  of  magnitude  at  the  same 
ratio,  then  this  tree  will  be  300  years  of  age ;  but  when  a  tree  is 
in  its  prime  of  growth,  it  acquires  greater  accession  of  solid  wood 
than  subsequently ;  for  subsequently,  the  capillary  tubes  become 
more  rigid,  and  the  circulation  of  the  juices  more  languid ;  and  a 
limit  is  fixed  by  nature,  when  all  accession  of  magnitude  ceases.  It 
therefore  follows,  that  the  annual  layers  of  wood,  forming  the  last 
2  feet  of  diameter,  have  required  a  greater  length  of  time  to  pro- 
duce it  than  that  immediately  preceding,  and  I  should  not  hesi- 
tate to  allow  it  150  years.    But  it  cannot  be  less  than  eighty  years 
since  the  tree  arrived  at  its  climax  of  growth.    It  has,  during  all 
that  period,  been  in  a  progress  of  decay.  At  this  time,  many  of  the 
topmost  branches  are  dead,  and  in  several  crevices  of  the  bole 
decompositipn  is  apparent.    Its  death  may  be  greatly  accelerated 
by  the  moisture  retained  on  a  flat  space  covered  with  grass,  some  2 
or  3  feet  in  diameter,  on  the  top  of  the  bole  where  the  branches  take 
their  rise.    The  tree  may,  however,  survive  sixty  or  eighty  years 
lono-er.    From  the  above  observations  it  will  follow  that  the  Prior- 
letbam sycamore  or  plane-tree  cannot  be  of  a  less  age  than  430 
years,  or  perhaps  nearer  450. 

II, —  Civil  Histoey. 
Land-owners.— The  chief  land-owners  are,  John  Anstruther 


CAMERON. 


307 


Thomson,  Lambieletham  and  Wilkieston ;  William  Lindesay  of 
Feddinch;  Thomas  Elder  M'Ritchieof  Denork;  Thomas  Graham 
Bonar  of  Greigston ;  Thomas  Horsburgh  of  Lathockar ;  Alex- 
ander Purvis  of  Kinaldie;  James  Wemyss  of  Winthank ;  and 
James  H.  Rigg,  Drumcarro. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  date  of  the  earliest  registers  of  births 
and  marriages  is  1695,  with  a  chasm  from  1709  to  1717.  They 
have  been  regularly  kept.  A  most  voluminous  record  of  disci- 
pline commences  in  1694,  and  is  contiimed  to  1739. 

The  only  mansion-house  of  any  note  in  the  parish  is  Mount 
Melville,  the  residence  of  John  Whyte  Melville,  Esq. 

III. — Population. 
There  are  only  three  persons  of  independent  fortune  resident 
in  the  parish.  The  population  of  the  parish  has  been  increasing 
for  the  last  forty  years,  and  during  the  forty  years  before  that  period 
it  seems  to  have  been  decreasing.  The  cause  of  the  decrease 
during  that  time  appears  to  have  been  the  inclosing  and  letting 
in  grass  from  year  to  year  of  a  number  of  farms;  and  during  the 
latter  period,  the  high  prices  got  for  agricultural  produce  caused 
a  number  of  them  to  be  let  for  tillage,  and  consequently  a  number 
of  more  hands  were  required  for  the  cultivation  of  the  land.  There 
have  been  likewise  a  good  many  houses  feued  in  the  parish,  at  West- 
field  of  Radernie,  which  is  another  cause  of  the  increase  in  the 
population.  The  population  may  be  said  to  be  wholly  agricul- 
tural and  resident  in  the  country,  as  the  houses  that  are  collected 
at  Denhead,  Radernie,  and  Lathones,  can  scarcely  be  termed  vil- 
lages. 


26 


The  average  number  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years,  is 

of  deaths,                  *                 -                 -  10 

of  marriages,             -                 .                 _  g 

The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,  22 

of  unmarried  men  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,                  -  \l 

women  ujjwards  of  45,                      .            -  26 

of  insane  persons  is,              .  j 

of  fatuous,                 .             .  2 

of  deaf  and  dumb,              .  c 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,               -              .            .           _  255 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,         -        .         .  g? 

in  trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,     -  29 

There  are  no  customs,  games,  or  amusements,  prevalent  in  the 
parish.  The  people  in  general  are  sober,  frugal,  and  industrious 
m  their  habits.  They  are  cleanly  in  their  persons  and  apparel, 
and  their  houses  are  for  the  most  part  neat  and  comfortable.  'I'here 
IS  nothing  peculiar  in  their  manner  of  dress  ;  the  short-gown  and 
petticoat  which,  within  these  few  years,  were  generally  worn  by  the 


308 


FIPESHIRE. 


females,  are  completely  exploded,  and  the  printed  gown  is  now 
universally  seen.    On  Sunday,  they  dress  very  showily,  and  the 
merino  and  silk  gown  are  quite  common.    Each  family  feeds  a 
pig  or  two,  and  sometimes  three  in  the  year,  the  flesh  of  which, 
with  the  garden  stuffs,  forms  a  very  comfortable  and  wholesome 
meal  for  dinner ;  porridge  and  milk  are  the  common  breakfast  of 
males,  and  tea  and  oat-cakes  or  wheaten  bread'  and  butter,  of 
females  ;  tea  is  generally  used  in  the  evening ;  and  for  sup- 
per, either  porridge  and  milk,  or  herrings  and  potatoes ;  cheese 
is  often  used  in  the  evening,  and  at  dinner  and  supper.  Where 
industrious  habits  prevail,  the  people  may  be  said  to  enjoy 
in  a  reasonable  degree  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  society, 
and  are  generally  contented  with  their  situation  and  circumstan-" 
ces.  Engaged  for  the  most  part  in  agricultural  operations,  and  not 
brought  together  in  great  numbers,  they  are  not  exposed  to  those 
various  temptations  with  which  the  manufacturing  population  in 
large  towns  are  surrounded,  and  are  characterized  by  an  independ- 
ence of  mind,  and  decency  of  behaviour,  which  generally  accom- 
pany rural  life.    They  are  intellectual,  religious,  and  moral,  and 
show  a  great  regard  for  all  the  ordinances  of  religion.  Poachmg 
does  not  prevail  to  a  great  extent,'  and  smuggling  is  altogether  un- 
known. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  were  5  illegitimate  births  in 
the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture  and  Rural  Econoviy. —Mmost  all  the  land  in  the  pa- 
rish has  the  appearance  of  having  been  under  the  plough  at  a  for- 
mer period,  as  it  still  retains  in  some  places  the  high  ridges  and 
low  furrows  of  ancient  times  ;  but  upon  part  of  Winthank  and  Gil- 
merton,  there  is  still  a  great  quantity  of  heath,  and  the  land  lying 
barren  and  unproductive,  with  no  appearance  of  the  hand  of  man 
having  ever  been  upon  it.  Land,  notwithstanding  the  cheapness 
of  agricultural  produce,  does  not  seem  to  be  going  out  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  allowed  to  lie  in  pasture,  but  the  reverse,— as,  within  these 
few  years,  a  considerable  quantity  of  pasture  land  has  been  brok- 
en up,  and  kept,  I  understand,  profitably  under  the  plough,  and 
more  will  be  added  to  that  which  is  already  in  tillage. 

The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  which  are  cultivated,  or  occa-  ^.    R.  F. 

sionally  in  tillage,  as  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  -         468b    d    0  iscotcti 

underwood,  -  -  I7fi?  J  fs 
permanent  pasture,  -  "  'o,l  V  ^ 
waste,  -  -  "   

The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish,  therefore,  is,      7144    2  3o 


CAMERON. 


309 


Rent  of  Land. — The  rent  of  land  varies  considerably  in  the 
parish.  The  land  on  the  north  side  of  the  parish  under  the 
plough  may  be  let  at  from  L.  1  to  L.  2  per  Scotch  acre.  On 
the  south  side,  it  may  be  let  at  from  10s.  to  L.  1,  6s.  per  do. 
The  rents  of  the  farms  which  are  let  from  year  to  year  in  grass, 
vary  from  2s.  6d.  to  L.  3 ;  the  average  perhaps  about  L.  1  per 
Scotch  acre.  Should  these  farms  be  broken  up,  thoroughly  limed 
and  drained,  and  aftervs'ards  laid  down  in  grass,  or  only  drained 
and  limed  on  the  surface,  I  would  consider  it  as  a  very  profitable 
outlay  of  capital,  besides  giving  employment  to  a  great  many  la- 
bourers in  the  district. 

The  real  rent  of  the  parish  arising  from  land,  as  nearly  as  can 
be  ascertained,  is  L.  8600  :  arising  from  mines,  &c.  L.  400. 

Mate  of  Wages. —  The  yearly  wages  of  an  unmarried  ploughman 
are,  L.IO,  10s.  or  L.ll,  with  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  one  Scotch 
pint  of  new  milk  from  the  cow,  and  one  boll  of  potatoes  of  4  cwt. 
for  supper,  with  lodging  in  a  bothy,  and  coals ;  of  a  married  plough- 
man, L.  8,  with  a  cow  kept  for  him  during  the  year,  or  L.  10  without 
a  cow  ;  but  with  one  Scotch  pint  of  sweet  milk,  as  much  ground 
as  will  plant  half  a  boll  of  potatoes,  and  as  much  as  half  a  peck  of  . 
linseed  will  sow,  together  with  a  house  and  garden.    The  yearly 
wages  of  a  female  servant  who  lives  in  the  house  are,  from  L.5,  5s.  to 
L.7.    Women  who  work  out  of  doors  have  8d.  per  day  without 
victuals,  from  eight  in  the  morning  to  six  in  the  eveningj^with  an 
hour  for  dinner  ;  taking  up  potatoes,  1  s.  with  dinner ;  day-labourers 
are  paid  Is.  4d.  in  winter,  and  Is.  6d.  in  summer,  without  victuals, 
from  eight  in  the  morning  to  darkness  in  winter,  and^from  eight  in 
the  morning  to  six  in  the  evening  in  summer,  having  one  hour 
allowed  for  dinner ;  wrights  and  masons  have  2s.  6d.  per  day  for 
the  same  hours;  smiths  are  generally  paid  from  L.  1,  15s.  to 
L.2,  10s.  per  pair  of  horses,  not  furnishing  either  the  mould-board 
or  side-plates  of  the  ploughs. 

Live  Stock. — Some  years  ago  the  Teeswater  breed  of  cattleVas 
greatly  esteemed,  or  crosses  from  that  and  the  Fifeshire ;  but 
the  Fifeshire  is  now  greatly  preferred,  and  the  pure  breed  sells 
at  high  prices.  The  Teeswater  kind  was  found  to  be  not  so 
hardy,  nor  so  easily  fattened,  the  flesh  coarser,  and  they  did 
not  attain  the  weight  that  they  are  brought  to  in  England, — 
whereas  the  Fife  cattle  were  found  to  be  much  hardier,  easier  kept 
and  fattened,  the  flesh  much  more  fine  and  delicate,  and  the  ani- 
mal to  reach  the  same  and  often  more  weight  than  the  Teeswater. 

Husbandry.— T\\evc  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  husbandry  of 


310 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  district.    The  common  plough  drawn  by  two  horses  is  in  daily 
use.    The  trenching  and  subsoil  plough  have  both  been  tried, 
but  neither  are  as  yet  in  general  use  in  tlie  parish  ;  but  I  should 
consider  that  there  could  not  be  a  greater  improvement  to  the 
parish  generally  than  the  use  of  the  latter ;  as  most  of  the  land  is 
recumbent  upon  a  very  retentive  substratum,  when  rain  falls,  the 
earth  soon  gets  saturated ;  whereas  were  the  bottom  opened  by  the 
subsoil  plough,  the  water  would  get  into  the  land,  and  off  by  the 
drains,  and  thus  the  quantity  of  rain  which  made  the  land  before 
unfit  for  tillage  would  never  occur,  and  the  plough  would  be  kept 
profitably  at  work.  Of  manure,  besides  the  common  farm-yard  dung, 
lime  is'  in  constant  use,  and  is  found  to  be  most  beneficial  when 
applied  to  land  that  has  never  been  limed,  or  to  that  which  has 
lain  long  in  grass.  The  second  and  third  application  of  it  has  been 
found  not  to  be  productive  of  so  much  good,  but  still  lime  can  be 
beneficially  applied  at  all  times.    There  is  an  abundant  supply 
of  it  at  Radernie  and  Winthank,  sold  at  from  2s.  to  2s.  6d. 
per  boll,  old  barley  measure.    Bone-dust  has  also  been  tried  suc- 
cessfully in  the  rearing  of  turnips,  but  this  will  not  prove  such  a 
benefit  to  this  part  of  the  country,  from  the  wetness  of  the  soil 
not  admitting  the  turnips  being  eaten  off  by  sheep,  as  it  must  be  to 
the  dry  upland  farms  of  Scotland. 

Improvements. — The  condition  of  farm-buildings  in  the  parish 
is  in  general  good,  and  the  offices  well  laid  out  for  the  various  pur- 
poses of  rural  economy.    The  houses  of  the  tenants  are  general- 
ly two  stories  high,  and  wide  in  proportion,  -  and  most  of  the  mo- 
dern buildings  are  covered  with  slates.    In  general  agreements  as 
to  new  erections  and  repairs,  the  tenant  engages  to  drive  the  ma- 
terials, such  as  lime,  stone,  sand,  wood,  slate,  &c.  and  the  land- 
lord pays  for  the  erection  of  the  buildings.  In  some  instances  also, 
with  regard  to  the  draining  of  land,  the  landlord  pays  for  the  open- 
'  ing  and  laying  the  drains,  the  tenant  quarrying  the  stones  and  car- 
rying them,  which  may  be  said  to  be  for  their  mutual  advantage. 
There  is  one  thrashing-machine  in  the  parish  which  has  a  steam 
power ;  the  rest  are  wrought  by  horses.    The  duration  of  leases  is 
nineteen  years,  and  perhaps,  in  a  country  where  so  much  requires 
to  be  done,  it  would  be  better  to  extend  the  lease  to  a  longer  pe- 
riod, to  encourage  the  tenant  to  improve  his  land,  and  allow  him 
a  sufficient  time  to  reap  the  full  benefit  of  his  outlay.  The  greater 
part  of  the  parish  is  already  enclosed  with  hedges  and  dikes,  and 
the  enclosure  of  the  rest  is  proceeding  gradually.    On  the  farm  of 
South  Lambielethara,  the  proprietor  is  at  present  opening  all  the 


CAMERON. 


311 


drains,  the  tenant  being  at  the  expense  of  quarrying  the  stones  and 
driving  them.  Since  the  purchase  of  Kinaldie,  lately,  considerable 
improvements  have  been  made  by  the  proprietor,  who  has  broken  up 
part  of  the  pasture,  in  which  it  has  long  lain,  and  js  draining  and 
liming  it.  He  has  also  built  a  farm-steading,  and  made  an  excel- 
lent road  to  it.  At  Cameron  also,  a  marked  improvement  has 
taken  place  within  the  last  fourteen  years, — a  good  road  having  been 
made  to  the  farm,  and  a  farm-house  and  steading  built,  enclosing 
the  land  by  stone  dikes,  thorn  and  beech  hedges,  and  by  the 
drainage  of  the  land. 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  and  value  of  raw  produce 
yearly  raised  in  the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  .  L.  14400 

Potatoes,  turnips  and  hay,  .  5700 
Land  III  permanent  pasture,  .  lyoO 
Gardens,  ,  .  .  '200 

Thinnings  of  plantations,  .  ,  50 
Quarries,  .  .  .  500 

Coals,       .       •  .  .  2000 

Total  yearly  value  of  rr.w  produce  raised,         L.  24600 

V. — Parochiax,  Economy. 
The  nearest  market- town  is  St  Andrews,  where  there  is  a  post- 
office  and  daily  post,  distant  about  3i  miles  from  the  manse,  which 
is  situated  about  the  centre  of  the  parish.  Ample  means  of  com- 
munication are  enjoyed  by  the  inhabitants  with  the  surrounding 
country.  There  is  a  turnpike  road  from  St  Andrews  to  the  south 
coast,  which  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  parish,  a  little  to  the 
eastward  of  the  manse,  along  which  a  coach  from  St  Andrews  to 
Largo  passes  three  days  a-week  to  meet  the  steam-boat  from  Edin- 
burgh. There  is  another  turnpike  from  Newport  ferry,  opposite 
Dundee,  to  the  Forth,  which  passes  through  the  west  part  of  the 
parish,  and  these  are  joined  together  by  another  at  Higham  Loan. 
A  great  improvement  has  taken  place  in  the  district  within  these* 
few  years,  by  the  opening  of  a  new  line  of  road  a  little  to  the  south- 
east of  the  manse,  to  the  east,  where  it  joins  the  St  Andrews  road 
to  Anstruther  at  Wakefield.  Formeily  great  inconvenience  was 
experienced  from  the  want  of  more  direct  means  of  communica- 
tion to  the  south  and  feast  coast,  as  the  only  way  at  that  time  for 
a  carriage  was  to  go  by  the  road  leading  by  Balcarres  dikes,  which 
is  now  entirely  obviated.  There  are  ten  bridges  in  the  parish,  and 
three  leading  into  it,  which  are  all  in  good  repair. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  neariy  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  betwixt  two  and  three  miles  distant  from  the  extremities  on 


312 


FIFESHIilE. 


the  E.  and  W.,  and  about  two  from  the  N.  and  S.,  and  is  in  as 
centrical  and  eligible  a  situation  as  could  well  be  fixed  upon.  It 
was  built  in  the  year  1808,  and  is  a  very  plain  building,  covered 
with  blue  slate^  with  a  belfry  on  the  west  gable,  and  is  at  present 
in  a  good  state  of  repair.    The  old  church  was  in  a  very  ruinous 
state  before  divine  service  was  given  over  in  it.    The  present  in- 
cumbent has  got  drenched  in  the  pulpit  when  preaching,  and  step- 
ping stones  were  placed  along  the  passages,  as  after  rain  they  be- 
came a  complete  sheet  of  water.    The  church  is  very  neat  in  the 
inside,  and  is  seated  to  contain  495  persons.    There  are  none  of 
the  seats  let  j  they  are  all  apportioned  to  the  different  heritors,  ac- 
cording to  their  valued  rents,  and  they,  with  their  tenants  and  ser- 
vants, occupy  them.    The  manse  was  built  to  the  present  incum- 
bent, immediately  after  he  was  presented  to  the  parish,  in  the 
year  1799,  and  cost  L.  355.    It  received  an  addition,  and  got 
a  repair  in  1823,  which  cost  L.  50,  and  is  at  present  in  good 
repair.    The  offices  are  old,  and  have  little  convenience.  The 
glebe  and  garden,  with  the  site  of  the  manse  and  offices,  con- 
tain 5  acres,  1  rood,  24  falls,  Scotch,  and  is  good  land.  The 
grass  glebe  contains  15  acres,  and,  except  about  an  acre  and  a- 
half,  is  constantly  in  pasture  ;  part  of  it  is  bog,  and  some  of  it  marshy 
ground,  from  which  good  meadow  hay  is  got.    The  value  of  the 
whole  may  be  about  L.  10.    The  stipend  amounts  to  36  bolls,  3 
firlots,  Specks,  If  hppies,  barley ;  28  bolls  of  meal;  140  bolls,  2 
firlots,  1  peck,  2  lippies,  oats ;  and  L.  24,  10s.  7d.,  with  L.  8,  6s. 
8d.  for  communion  elements.    There  is  also  payable  from  St  An- 
drews parish,  L.  144,  10s.  Scotch  of  vicarage,  the  collecting  of 
which  is  very  troublesome,,  being  due  by  a  great  many  properties  in 
very  small  sums.   There  is  one  Burgher  meeting-house  situated  on 
the  border  of  this  parish,  adjoining  the  parishes  of  Kilconquhar 
and  Carnbee,  where  there  are  a  considerable  population  at  a  great 
distance  from  their  parish  churches.    The  number  of  famihes  of 
Dissenters  is  computed  at  12. 

Divine  service  is  always  well  attended  at  the  parish  church.  The 
average  number  of  communicants  is  450. 

Education. — There  is  one  parochial  school,  the  teacher  of  which 
has  the  maximum  salary,  which  amounts  to  L.  34,  4s.  4id.,  a  good 
dwelling-house  and  school-room,  and  rather  more  than  the  maxi- 
mum allowance  of  garden  ground.  The  school  fees  may  amount  to 
L.  10  per  annum.  He  also  receives  L.  3,  1  Os.  as  clerk  to  the  heritors 
and  kirk-treasurer,  and  L.  2,  lOs.  as  session- clerk.  There  are  like- 
wise two  private  schools, — one  situated  at  Lawhead,  and  the  othe^ 


CAMERON. 


313 


at  Denhead,  both  depending  on  the  school  lees,  and  both  having 
free  school-rooms;  a  free  dwelling-house  being  also  attached  to  the 
latter.  The  branches  usually  taught  at  the  parish  school  are,  En- 
glish, English  grammar,  writing  and  arithmetic.  The  same  branches 
are  taught  at  the  other  schools.  The  school  fees  at  the  parish  school 
are,  for  English  grammar,  per  quarter,  3s.  6d. ;  reading,  2s.  6d. ; 
writing  and  reading,  3s. ;  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic,  3s.  6d. 
At  the  other  schools  each  branch  is  6d.  per  quarter  higher. 

There  are  very  few  persons  in  the  parish  beyond  the  age  of  six 
years  who  cannot  read  and  write.  The  people  seem  all  very  much 
alive  to  the  advantages  of  education,  and  are  anxious  to  give  their 
children  as  much  learning  as  possible.  Children  of  paupers,  and 
those  whose  means  are  very  circumscribed,  are  educated  at  the  pa- 
rish school  gratuitously.  Ample  means  of  education  are  provided, 
and  none  of  the  children  are  so  distant  as  to  prevent  attendance 
at  school. 

Friendly  Society.— About  twenty  years  ago,  a  friendly  society 
existed  in  the  parish,  but,  from  giving  too  large  an  allowance  to 
members  and  widows,  before  the  society  had  accumulated  sufficient 
capital,  it  got  into  debt,  and  was  dissolved  by  general  consent. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— Theve  are  at  present  on  the  poor's 
roll  12  persons.  The  average  sum  allotted  to  each,  per  week,  is  9d. 
There  are,  besides,  a  few  who  receive  aid  occasionally.  They  are 
all  supported  by  the  church  collections,  which  amounted  in  the  year 
ending  1835,-  to  L.  17,  12s.;  and  the  rent  of  2  acres  5  poles,  im- 
perial of  land,  which  was  lately  let  by  public  roup  at  L.  7,  2s. 
In  general  the  poor  consider  it  as  degrading  to  come  upon  the  pa- 
rish, but  there  are  instances  to  the  contrary,  where  there  is  no 
reluctance  to  apply,,  and  no  degradation  felt  to  receive  a  regular 
support. 

Imis.—Theve  are  8  houses  in  the  parish  licensed  to  sell  whis- 
ky, and  two  where  only  beer  is  sold,  which  is  more  than  are  neces- 
sary for  the  convenience  of  the  inhabitants. 

-Pwe/.— Plenty  of  coals  can  be  procured  at  Drumcarro,  in  the 
parish,  and  at  Largoward,  bordering  upon  the  parish,  but  situated 
in  that  of  Kilconquhar,— which  cost,  on  an  average  at  both  places, 
Is.  6d.  per  load  of  3  cwt. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
The  alteration  in  the  appearance  of  the  parish  since  the  present 
incumbent  first  knew  it,  is  very  striking.    Then,  a  great  quantity  of 
heath  was  to  be  seen  from  the  windows  of  the  manse,  now  it  has 
altogether  disappeared ;  and  instead  of  the  comparatively  barren 


314  FIFESHIRE. 


waste,  neat  enclosures  and  fields  waving  with  yellow  corn,  meet 
the  eye,  allbi-ding  a  rich  reward  for  the  pains  and  industry  of  the 
cultivator,  and  producing  abundance  of  food,  by  the  bounty  of  that 
Almighty  Being  who  governs  the  universe,  both  for  man  and  beast. 
The  quantity  of  wood  now  rising  on  all  sides  contributes  to  enrich 
the  prospect,  besides  tending  materially  to  alter  the  climate,  in  con- 
nection with  the  extensive  system  of  drainage  which  is  now  pur- 
sued. 

The  condition  of  the  people  is  much  improved.  The  article  of 
potatoes  has  contributed  materially  to  bring  about  this  change, 
not  only  in  affording  nourishment  to  themselves,  but  in  enabling 
them  to  acquire  a  considerable  quantity  of  excellent  bacon,  which 
before  could  only  be  procured  at  mills,  and  at  a  high  price.  Tea 
has  also  become  a  new  article  of  comfort  and  consumption,  which 
the  rise  in  the  price  of  labour,  since  its  introduccion  into  this  coun- 
try, has  enabled  them  to  procure.  The  superior  clothing,  too, 
since  the  introduction  of  steam,  forms  another  striking  proof  of  the 
comfort  of  the  peasantry.  Formerly  both  the  woollen  and  common 
spinning  wheel  were  in  constant  use,  now  the  former  is  never,  and 
the  latter  is  seldom  to  be  seen,  the  cloth  being  to  be  had  much 
more  cheap  in  the  shops  than  it  can  be  manufactured  at  home. 

When  this  country  was  visited  by  that  awful  scourge,  the  Asia- 
tic cholera,  by  which  so  many  millions  of  the  human  race  were  de- 
stroyed since  1817,  meetings  were  held  for  the  suppression  of  va- 
grancy in  the  district,  as  it  was  thought  that  vagrants,  going  from 
place  to  place,  carried  the  infection  along  with  them,  and  a  con- 
stabulary police  force  was  then  appointed  for  its  suppression,  and 
is  still  kept  up.  The  officer  makes  regular  rounds  with  a  book,  in 
which  entries  are  made  by  all  respectable  householders,  of  the  num- 
ber, description  and  appearance  of  any  vagrant,  or  stroUing  mendi- 
cant,  who  may  from  time  to  time  appear,  with  their  supposed  route  ; 
who  is  thereby  enabled  to  apprehend  and  lodge  in  jail,  or  pass  to 
their  proper  places,  all  such  vagrants  and  sturdy  beggars  as  may 
he  found  in  the  district.  Since  this  force  has  been  appointed,  the 
happiest  results  have  followed ;  the  country  being  made  free  from 
those  vagrants,  who,  when  at  times  refused  their  exorbitant  de- 
mands, poured  forth  torrents  of  abuse  and  oaths,  and  were  not  at 
all  scrupulous  in  taking  what  they  could  lay  their  hands  upon  ; 
and  our  highways  are  now  free  from  those  exhibitions  of  squalor, 
filth,  and  deformity,  with  which  they  formerly  abounded. 


January  1837. 


PAR[SH  OF  KILCONQUHAR. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  WILLIAM  FERRIE,  D.  D.,  MINISTER. 


I- — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. —  Ceauniuchair  and  Kilconquhar  are  obviously  Gaelic 
words.  Ceaun  signifies  a  head,  part  above,  limif,  extremity,  termina- 
tion,   luchair  is  a  common  name  for  a  stream  or  rivei;  especially  a 
stream  which  issues  from  a  lake.  luchair  is  also  applied  to  a  fresh- 
water lake.  Ceaun-Iuchair,  without  shiftinff  one  letter,  signifies  the 
extreme  end,  or  upper  extremity  of  the  fresh-water  lake,  or  the  head 
or  part  above  water.    This  is  perfectly  descriptive  of  the  situation 
of  the  church,  and  church-yard  or  burying-place  of  this  parish.  It 
is  an  eminence  on  the  edge,  or  at  the  head,  of  a  fresh-water  lake. 
The  lake  evidently  at  one  time  had  covered  all  the  low  ground  to 
the  north  and  west,  as  well  as  to  the  south  of  the  eminence,  on  which 
the  church  stands.    Then,  this  eminence  might  very  properly  have 
been  called  the  head  of  the  lake,  or  part  above  water.    Kil,  as  every 
one  knows,  signifies  a  cell,  a  church-yard,  or  place  of  worship;  Kil- 
conquhar therefore  signifies  the  cell,  the  burying-place,  or  place 
of  worship  at  the  head  or  extremity  of  the  fresh  water  lake.  On 
this  spot,  in  all  probability,  there  was  a  Druidical  place  of  worship 
and  a  burying-place,  long  before  the  introduction  of  Christianity. 
When  the  old  church  was  taken  down  in  1821,  the  foundation  of 
the  oldest  part  of  it  was  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth,  although  it  was  built  on  dry  firm  ground.  Both 
within  and  without  the  building,  to  all  this  depth,  immense  quan- 
tities of  human  bones  were  found.    There  can  be  little  doubt  that 
this  great  accumulation  of  earth  had  arisen  from  the  multitude  of. 
human  bodies  that  had  been  interred  here. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.—This  parish  extends  in  length  from 
Earlsferry  on  the  south,  to  Bruntshields  on  the  north,  a  distance  of 
about  9  miles.  Its  average  breadth  is  about  2  miles.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  south  by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  the  parish  of  Elie;  on 
the  east,  by  the  parishes  of  Abercrombie  or  St  Monance,  and 


316 


FIFESHIRE. 


Carnbee  ;  on  the  north,  by  Cameron  and  Ceres ;  on  the  west,  by 
the  parishes  of  Largo  and  Newburn,  and  Largo  bay.  It  contains 
about  16  square  miles. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  surface  of  the  parish,  al- 
though somewhat  irregular,  is  so  level  as  to  be  nearly  all  arable. 
With  the  exception  of  Kincraig  hill,  the  land  in  the  south  part  of 
the  parish  is,  generally  speaking,  flat,  rising  gently  towards  the 
north  for  four  miles,  till  it  reach  Reres,  and  Kilbrachmont,  which 
form  part  of  a  ridge  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  terminat- 
ed by  Largo- Law  on  the  west,  and  Kellie-Law  on  the  east.  To  the 
north  of  Reres,  a  deep  ravine  separates  the  south  from  the  north 
parts  of  the  parish,  making  two  nearly  equal  divisions.  From  this 
ravine,  the  land  again  rises  gradually  towards  the  north  for  two 
miles,  till  it  reach  its  greatest  elevation,  750  feet  at  Dunikier-Law. 
From  this  hill  it  declines  towards  the  north  for  nearly  two  miles, 
when  by  a  gentle  acclivity  it  reaches  Bruntshields,  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish. 

Various  parts  of  the  parish  command  rich -and  extensive  pros- 
pects. From  Dunikier  Law,  the  estuaries  of  Forth  and  Tay  are 
seen  at  nearly  equal  distances,  covered,  in  good  weather,  with  ships 
carrying  the  commerce  of  the'  country  to  and  from  every  quarter 
of  the  globe.  The  land  view  here  is  very  extensive,  comprehend- 
ing the  Angus-shire,  Perthshire,  and  Argyleshire  mountains  on 
the  north  and  west,  and  the  Berwickshire  hills  on  the  south. 
From  Reres  and  Kilbrachmont,  but  especially  from  Balcarres 
Craig,  which  projects  a  little  more  to  the  south,  is  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  splendid  views  imaginable.  Here,  you  look  down  upon 
all  the  richly  wooded  and  highly  cultivated  lands,  with  the  coast 
towns,  and  family  mansions,  from  Dysart  on  the  west,  to  Crail  on 
the  east ; — on  the  Frith  of  Forth  with  its  ships  and  islands  ;  and 
beyond  it,  on  the  fertile  county  of  East  Lothian  :  while  Edinburgh, 
with  the  Linlithgow  and  Pentland  hills,  terminate  the  view  to  the 
south-west,  the  Lamraermuir  hills  to  the  south,  and  the  German 
Ocean  to  the  east. 

Meteorology. — No  regular  meteorological  tables  are  kept  here. 
The  temperature  varies  a  little  in  the  higher  and  lower  parts  of  the 
parish,  but  the  medium  is  about  47°.  The  climate  is  very  salubri- 
ous, and  the  inhabitants  are  generally  healthy.  Diseases  of  an  in- 
fectious nature  rarely  appear  here.  Colds  and  inflammatory  af- 
fections may  be  said  to  be  the  most  prevalent  diseases.  When 


KILCONQUHAR. 


317 


cholera  morbus  lately  visited  the  country,  this  parish  entirely 
escaped  its  ravages. 

We  have  certain  prognostics  of  changes  of  weather.  When 
clouds  rest  on  Largo  Law,  we  expect  soon  to  have  rain.*  When 
the  wind  blows  from  the  west  or  north-west  we  have  our  best  wea- 
ther. Wlien  the  sea  is  heard  making  a  noise  towards  Ardross,  or 
St  Monance,  we  are  sure  soon  to  have  bad  weather  from  the  east. 
When  the  same  kind  of  noise  is  heard  towards  Kincraig,  or  up  the 
Frith  we  expect  the  storm  to  abate.  This  noise  is  only  heard 
when  the  wind  is  from  the  east. 

Hydrography. — Largo  bay,  which  forms  the  S.W.  boundary  of 
the  parish,  from  being  protected  by  the  bold  headland  or  promon- 
tory of  Kincraig,  from  the  heavy  seas,  which  roll  with  great  fury 
along  the  shore  in  high  easterly  winds,  affords  a  safe  and  excellent 
anchorage  for  ships,  when  detained  in  the  Frith  by  E.  and  N. 
winds.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  forty  or  fifty  vessels  of  diffe- 
rent sizes,  lying  here  in  perfect  safety,  during  heavy  N.  E.  winds. 
In  this  bay  stake-nets  have  lately  been  erected,  and  salmon  are 
caught,  although  not  -in  great  numbers. 

Kilconquhar  loch  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  fresh  water,  lying  imme- 
diately to  the  south  of  the  church  and  village,  about  two  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  half  a  mile  in  diameter,  encircled  with  wood  on 
the  west,  south,  and  south-east  sides.  This  lake  abounds  with 
pike  and  eel,  both  of  which  are  often  caught  of  large  size.  In 
some  parts  it  is  very  deep,  and  long  in  freezing.  The  oldest  tomb- 
stone in  the  church-yard  bearing  an  inscription,  is  upon  the  grave 
of  "  William  Ballantine,  laird  of  Kilconquhar,  who  was  drown- 
ed skating  on  the  loch,  on  the  28th  February  1593,  - aged  28 
years."  Little  or  no  water  runs  into  the  lake.  It  is  supplied  al- 
most entirely  by  springs.  A  clear  and  copious  stream  issues 
from  it,  and  falls  into  the  sea  at  Elie.  This  lake  has  long  been  a 
favourite  haunt  of  swans.f    There  are  thirty  of  these  majestic 

•  The  two  following  old  distiches,  which  are  in  usa  among  the  people  here,  express 
the  result  of  their  observations:  Largo  Law  lies  to  the  west,  Kpllie  Law  to  the  east- 
our  rains  most  frequently  come  from  the  west.  ' 

1. 

When  Largo  Law  puts  on  his  hat, 
Let  Kellie  Law  beware  of  that. 
2. 

When  Kellie  Law  gets  on  his  cap, 
Largo  Law  may  laugh  at  that. 

t  A  famous  witch  of  Pittenweem  is  said  to  have  been  drowned  here,  and  the  loch 
appears  to  have  had  swans  in  it  at  that  time ;  


318 


FIFESHIUE. 


fowls  upon  it  at  present ;  a  few  years  ago  there  were  fifty.  The 
swans  support  themselves  entirely  by  what  they  find  in  the  water, 
except  when  it  is  frozen,  when  they  require  to  be  fed.  They  breed 
regularly,  and  would  multiply  fast,  were  it  not  that  their  nests  are 
often  destroyed  in  spring.  -  Wild  duck,  teal,  and  a  great  variety 
of  water-fowls  frequent  the  lake.  In  1823,  about  twenty  wild 
swans  alighted  in  it  during  the  severe  weather,  and  remained  till 
the  storm  abated,  when  they  took  their  departure. 

No  river  runs  through  the  parish,  and  only  one  brook  or  stream 
with  water  sufficient  to  drive  machinery.  This  stream,  which  has 
different  names,  as  it  passes  different  places,  takes  its  vise  in  the 
upper  parts  of  the  parish,  and  is  increased  by  several  small  stream- 
lets as  it  descends.  The  water  of  this  stream,  with  the  assistance 
of  dams,  drives,  in  its  course,  five  corn-mills,  and  one  lint  or  flax 
mill.  It  falls  into  Largo  bay,  at  Shooter's  Point,  and  at  its  em- 
bouchure is  the  line  of  division  betwixt  this  parish  and  that  of 
Newburn.  The  streamlets,  which  take  their  rise  to  the  north  of 
Dunikier  Law,  run  in  a  northerly  direction,  till  they  join  some  of 
the  tributary  streams  of  the  river  Eden,  which  discharges  itself  into 
St  Andrews  Bay.  Copious  springs,  of  excellent  quality,  are  every 
where  to  be  found  in  the  parish,  and  rarely  is  any  scarcity  of  wa- 
ter felt. 

Soil— There  is  considerable  variety  in  the  soil,  but  it  is  gene- 
rally fertile,  and  nearly  all  under  cultivation.  In  the  lowest,  or 
most  southerly  part  of  the  parish,  it  is  light  loam,  with  a  mixture 
of  sand.  As  you  recede  from  the  sea,  it  becomes  deeper.  Be- 
tween Kilconquhar  and  Colinsburgh,  there  is  a  strath  of  rich  allu- 
vial soil,  which  extends  in  a  south-easterly  direction  till  it  reach 
Balbuthie.  From  this  strath  to  Colinsburgh  it  is  more  light  and 
sandy,  but  sharp  and  fertile.  All  the  rising  ground  above  Colins- 
burgh, including  the  lands  of  Balcarres,  Charleton,  and  the  south 
parts  of  Reres  and  Killbrachmont,  is  a  black  loam,  and  being  in  the 
highest  state  of  cultivation,  yields  abundant  crops.  To  the  north 
of  Reres,  the  climate  becomes  colder,  and  the  soil  less  uniform. 
Still  it  is,  generally  speaking,  good,  and  in  favourable  seasons  is  very 
productive.  From  its  elevation,  in  later  seasons  the  crops  are 
more  uncertain. 

«'  They  took  her  to  Kinniuchar  Loch, 
'  And  threw  the  Ummcrin, 

And  a  the  swans  took  to  the  hills, 
Scar'd  with  the  unhaely  diu." 

Witches  of  Pittenwccm. 

3 


KILCONQUHAR. 


319 


'  Geology.— r-The  great  independent  coal  formation  characterizes, 
ihroiighout,  the  length  and  breadth  of  this  parish.  Our  space, 
however,  will  permit  us  to  give  only  a  very  general  description  of  a 
district,  which,  both  in  a  scientific  and  economical  point  of  view,  pre- 
sents a  field  of  inquiry  of  the  most  interesting  and  important  character. 

If  a  line  be  drawn  from  Kincraig  Hill  on  the  S.  W.  to  Brunt- 
shields  on  the  N.  W.,  and  another  from  Balbuthie  quarry  on  the  S. 
E.  to  Lingo  Hill  in  the  parish  of  Carnbee,  about  a  mile  and  a-half 
beyond  the  N.  E.  extremities  of  this  parish,  a  space  of  nearly  32 
square  miles,  will  be  included,  every  spot  of  which  is  occupied  with 
some  member  of  the  coal  formation,  anda  considerable  portion  of  the 
whole  included  area,  with  the  useful  mineral  itself.     Three  well 
marked  divisions,  at  different  levels  and  elevations,  occur  in  the 
line  of  this  course,  which  comprise  separate  and  distinct  coal 
fields,  geographically  as  well  as  physically  distinguished  from  each 
other.  The  first  of  these  embraces  the  Grange  or  Earlsferry  coal 
field,  which  lies  along  the  shore,  and  inclines  towards  the  sea ;  the 
second  includes  the  Reres  and  Balcarres  coal  district,  inland  about 
four  miles,  and  elevated  above  the  former  upwards  of  400  feet. 
Lathallan,  Largoward,  and  Falfield  coals,  occupy  the  high  table- 
land toward  the  northern  limit  of  the  parish,  the  last  attaining  an 
elevation  of  about  700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.    These  se- 
parations, and  elevations,  of  the  once  continuous  beds  of  the 
coal  measures,  have  obviously  been  occasioned  by  the  interposition 
of  the  trap  rocks,  which  occur  so  abundantly  among  them ;  the 
principal  ofwhich  are  Kincraig  Hill,  Balcarres  Craig,  Kilbrachmont- 
Knock,  Reres  Craig,  and  Dunikier-Law.  Dislocations,  and  shift- 
ings,  and  upheavings,  in  every  possible  form  and  variety,  are  exhi- 
bited in  each  of  the  coal  fields ;  but,  as  may  be  naturally  expected, 
these  curious  phenomena  abound  most  in  the  upper  or  last  division. 

Kincraig  Hill,  on  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  the  parish,  springs 
immediately  from  the  beach,  to  the  height  of  nearly  200  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  southern  aspect  is  nearly  ver- 
tical, presenting  to  the  surf  a  bold  rugged  front  of  precipitous 
rock.  Here  M'Dutf's  cave  affords  an  object  of  attention  to  all 
the  lovers  of  the  picturesque,  while  the  student  of  geology,  if 
he  has  courage  to  pursue  his  journey  to  the  westward,  will 
be  amply  rewarded  for  his  exertions.  In  a  line  of  section  of 
little  more  than  half  a  mile,  nearly  every  member  of  the  trap  fii- 
mdy  of  rocks  may  be  met  with,  basalt,  greenstone,  clinkstone. 


I 


320  FIFESHIRE. 

amygdaloid,  trap-tuffa,  wacke,  and  clay-stone  porphyry.  The  trap- 
tuffa  and  amygdaloid  are  beautifully  reticulated  by  innumerable 
veins  of  calcareous  spar,  varying  from  a  thin  film,  to  several  inches 
in  thickness.   The  basalt  is  disposed  in  elegant  columns,  consisting 
ofsmall  jointed  pentagonal  masses,  which  are  piled  upon  one  another 
in  a  regular  and  vertical  order.    These  columns  are  sometimes 
collected  into  groups,  which  are  separated  from  each  other  by 
seams  or  rents.    The  spaces  between  the  jointed  concretions  are 
composed  of  a  looser  matter  than  the  concretions  themselves;  and 
it  is  by  the  falling  out  of  this  less  compact  substance  that  the 
structure  of  the  whole  is  so  beautifully  developed.    Large  masses 
or  aggregations  of  columns,  sometimes  separate,  and  fall  down  into 
the  sea,  by  the  action  of  which  they  are  broken  into  smaller  frag- 
ments, when  they  are  rounded  and  polished  into  a  variety  of  forms. 
This  basalt  has  a  greyish-black  colour,  opaque,  with  a  small  con- 
choidal  fracture,  and  is  hard  enough  to  cut  glass,  or  to  strike  fire 
with  a  steel. 

Earlsferry  point  exhibits  the  same  interesting  appearances,  be- 
tween which  and  Kincraig  a  small  bay  intervenes,  where  at  low 
water  the  stratified  rocks,  and  edges  of  the  coal-field  may  be 
observed,  in  immediate  contact  with  those  of  the  trapean  class. 
Sandstone,  shale,  and  slate-clay  occur  here,  all  of  them  much  al- 
tered, bat  especially  the  shale,  which  is  greatly  indurated,  having  in 
some  places  the  colour  and  texture  of  fire-brick.    The  slate-clay 
is  converted  into  flinty-slate,  and  in  such  specimens  the  vegetable 
impressions  are  completely  effaced.    The  shale  contains  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  ironstone  nodules ;  patches  of  sandstone,  in 
the  form  of  flattened  globular  concretions,  also  occur,  which  are 
invested  with  a  bituminous  or  carbonaceous  coating.    The  sand- 
stone affords  abundance  of  the  stems  or  trunks  of  trees,  from  an 
inch  to  several  inches  in  diameter :  the  cortical  part  of  these  is 
entirely  covered  with  regular  impressions  of  leaves,  ranging  round 
them  in  spiral  lines,  and  in  the  interior,  an  included  portion  re- 
sembling a  cylinder  may  be  observed,  usually  of  a  higher  colour 
than  the  rest  of  the  mass,  and  traversing  it  in  a  direction  parallel 
to  the  axis  of  the  stem.    If  this  portion  is  to  be  considered  as  re- 
presenting the  pith,  the  plants  possessed  of  it,  according  to  Stem- 
hauer,  may  justly  be  supposed  to  have  constituted  an  intermediate 
order  between  the  Palmaceae  and  Coniferse. 

Immediately  to  the  east  of  this  interesting  series  of  rocks,  the 

4 


KILCONQUHAR. 


321 


Grange  coal-works  are  situated,  the  metals  of  which  consist  of  nine 
seams;  the  largest  being  about  eight  feet  thick.  This  coal-field 
is  traversed  by  three  trap  dikes  or  veins,  which  have  produced  the 
usual  effects  upon  the  minerals,  those  in  contact  being  charred, 
and  in  some  places  thrown  into  a  vertical  position.  The  strata  in- 
cline to  the  west  at  an  angle  of  12°. 

As  we  approach  the  Balcarres  coal-field,  some  very  interesting 
sections  may  be  observed,  in  the  Den,  of  an  alternating  series  of 
sandstone,  shale,  coal,  and  ironstone,  and  the  manner  in  which 
these  have  been  upheaved  and  altered  by  the  igneous  rocks.  The 
stream,  already  mentioned,  traverses  this  beautiful  ravine  for  the 
space  of  nearly  two  miles,  and  has  laid  open  the  outcrop  of  the 
whole  series,  as  they  have  been  deposited  one  above  another.  To- 
wards the  lower  extremity  of  the  Den,  the  attention  is  first  arrest- 
ed by  a  projecting  mass  of  trap-tulFa,  which  is  very  friable,  and 
easily  yields  upon  the  slightest  compression,  its  several  component 
parts,  consisting  of  shale,  coal,  sandstone,  ironstone,  clinkstone, 
basalt,  varying  from  portions  of  half  an  inch  to  a  foot  or  more  in 
diameter,  and  which  are  all  imbedded  in  a  paste  of  claystone.  This 
dike  (for  such  it  may  be  considered,)  is  very  interesting,  both  by 
its  great  extent,  stretching  as  it  does  from  Kincraig  Hill,  to  the 
opposite  coast  of  Fife,  where  it  may  be  observed  to  the  eastward 
of  St  Andrews,  forming  the  rock  and  spindle,  and  likewise  by  the 
proof  it  affords,  from  its  composition,  that  it  must  have  owed  its 
origin  to  causes  in  action  at  a  period  long  subsequent  to  the  for- 
mation of  the  coal,  and  consolidation  of  the  adjacent  rocks.  The 
strata  dip  from  this  towards  the  N.  W.,  at  an  angle  of  29°.  The 
dip  increases  as  they  approach  Balcarres  Craig,  where,  a  few  hun- 
dred  yards  to  the  north,  across  the  stream,  the  sandstone  may  be 
seen  capping  a  mass  of  greenstone,  and  dipping  nearly  due  north  at 
an  angle  of  50°.  Here  the  sandstone  is  very  little  indurated,  though 
in  immediate  contact  with  the  trap.    Balcarres -Craig,  which  is  a 
picture  in  itself,  rising  abruptly  from  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  to 
the  height  of  200  feet,  and  completely  insulated  from  the  surround- 
ing hills,  consists  of  clinkstone  split  up,  as  may  be  observed  on 
the  south  side,  into  tabular  masses,  and  exhibiting  on  the  top 
a  considerable  display  of  the  columnar  structure.    It  is  of  a  dark 
bluish  colour,  close-grained,  and  compact,  and  has  been  mistaken 
for  basalt ;  but  upon  minute  inspection,  it  will  be  found  to  pos- 
sess the  qualities  of  a  compact  felspar  or  clinkstone  rock.   At  the 

FIFE,  X 


322 


FIFRSHIRE. 


entrance  of  tlie  quarry  a  vein  of  greenstone  occurs,  a  continuation 
in  all  probability  of  the  mass  noticed  above. 

Balcarres  Coal-field  ranges  westward  from  the  Craig,  dipping 
partly  under  it,  as  well  as  the  Kilbrachmont  ridge  on  the  north. 
It  consists  of  four  seams,  two  of  which  are  splint,  the  one  6,  and 
the  other  '2  feet  thick.    The  third  seam,  which  is  3  feet  thick, 
consists  of  common  coal.    The  fourth  is  called  "  marl-coal,"  from 
the  circumstance  of  its  being  split  up,  or  separated  into  two  seams 
by  an  interposed  bed  of  that  substance.    A  trap  dike  of  60  yards 
thick  traverses  this  field  from  east  to  west,  doing  considerable  in- 
jury to  the  minerals.    The  dip  varies  from  11°  to  an  angle  of  20°. 
Reres  coal  is  nearly  in  the  same  line  of  elevation  with  that  of 
Balcarres ;  and  has  been  compressed  into  a  trough-hke  form, 
stretching  to  about  800  yards  across  the  edges  of  outcrop.  This 
curious  figure  into  which  the  strata  have  been  thrown,  termi- 
nating .in  a  semicircular  end,  has  unquestionably  been  occasioned 
by  the  action  of  the  trap  rocks,  by  which  it  is  almost  surrounded. 
It  also  consists  of  four  seams  of  coal  of  variable  thickness. 

The  upper  division  of  the  parish  presents  coal  at  Lathallan, 
Largoward,  and  Falfield.  Dunikier-Law,  the  highest  point  in  this 
range,  is  composed  of  fine  grained  basalt,  arranged  in  large  pen- 
tagonal jointed  columns,  and  seems  to  be  the  centre  from  whence 
the  innumerable  dikes  diverge,  which  have  broken  up  into  so  many 
sectional  patches  the  coal- metals  of  this  interesting  and  disturbed 
district.    In  many  places  the  coals  are  thrown  upon  their  edges, 
dip  in  every  direction,  and  at  various  degrees  of  inclination.  Along 
with  the  varieties  mentioned  above,  a  bed  of  cannel  or  parrot-coal, 
of  2  feet  thick,  occurs  in  this  quarter.  *    All  the  seams  are  more 
or  less  injured  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dikes  ;  and  by  the  shifting  and 
upheaving  of  the  beds,  much  trouble  and  expense  are  occasioned 
to  their  respective  owners.    Is  their  gratitude  to  the  bountiful 
.  Giver  and  Architect  of  the  whole  rendered  the  less  ?  Let  them  re- 
flect that  by  these  very  means,  through  the  agency  of  these  very 
faults  and  troubles,  the  useful  mineral  has  been  lifted  from  the 
bowels  of  the  earth,  and  brought  within  their  reach.  Besides, 
when  veins  are  filled,  as  is  often  the  case  here,  with  stiff  clay,  nu- 
merous springs  are  dammed  up,  and  brought  to  the  surface,  there- 

*  Falfield  coal  must  have  been  worked  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  as  an  ac- 
count  is  to  be  seen  at  Largo  House,  of  so  many  loads  of  parrot-coal,  dnven  yearly 
from  Falfield  to  Falkland,  for  the  use  of  King  James  VI.  in  his  own  chamber. 


KILCONQUIIAR. 


323 


by  facilitating  greatly  the  process  of  working ;  while,  by  means  of 
the  dikes  of  in  jected  matter  which  throw  down  the  strata,  valua- 
ble beds  of  coal  are  preserved  within  the  field,  which  would  other- 
wise have  cropped  out,  and  been  lost  altogether.  "  O  Lord,  how 
manifold  are  thy  works !  in  wisdom  hast  thou  made  them  all:  the 
earth  is  full  of  thy  riches  I" 

Limestone  is  not  so  abundant  in  the  parish  as  might  be  expect- 
ed from  the  geological  character  of  the  district,  and  what  is  found 
by  no  means  bears  the  highest  reputation.  It  occurs  at  Kilcon- 
quhar,  where  it  has  been  worked  for  some  years  past,  and  also  at 
Balcarres,  and  other  places.  At  Kilconquhar,  the  rock  is  of  a  bluish- 
grey  colour,  compact  or  rather  somewhat  crystalline  in  structure, 
and  contains  abundance  of  encrinites  and  minute  shells.  In  the 
upper  district,  few  organic  remains  occur  in  any  of  the  beds,  which 
are  all  highly  indurated,  as  well  as  much  bleached  in  colour,  oc- 
casioned probably  by  the  expulsion  of  the  bituminous  matter  through 
the  agency  of  the  igneous  rocks. 

Travelled  blocks  or  boulders  occur  along  the  sea  shore,  and  still 
more  abundantly  in  the  higher  districts.  These  consist  chiefly  of 
primitive  greenstone,  mica  slate,  and  granite.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  cause  of  their  transportation,  whether  we  are  to  consider 
them  as  the  result  of  the  Noachian  deluge,  or  regard  them,  with 
others,  as  produced  and  carried  along  by  the  bursting  of  lakes,  in 
either  case  the  agency  must  have  been  prodigious,  as  none  of  them 
are  to  be  found  in  situ  nearer  than  the  Grampian  mountains.  The 
waters,  too,  which  bore  them  along,  must  have  swept  oyer  all  our 
loftiest  hills,  or  their  elevation  must  have  taken  place  subsequently 
to  that  event. 

Botany.— The  following  plants  are  to  be  met  with  along  tlie 
sea  beach,  some  of  them  adhering  to  the  rocks  under  Kmcraig 
Hill.  Rumex  maritimus^  Artemisia  maritima,  Eryngivm  mariti- 
rmm,  Smyrnium  olusatriim,  Arenaria  marina,  Orobanche  rubra, 
Cochlearia  officinalis  and  Danica,  Arabis  hispida,  Sinapistenuifolia, 
Geranium  sanguineum,  Lavatera  arhorea,  Eupatorium  cannabi- 
num,  Hordeum  maritimum,  Glaux  maritima,  Senecio  aguaticus,  Sfc~ 

Kilconquhar  loch  affords  a  great  variety  of  aquatic  plants,  a  few 
of  which  only  can  be  specified.  Carex  several  species ;  Sparganium 
ramosum  and  nutans,  Arundo  phragmites,  Juncus  effusus  and  bid- 
bosus,  Scirpusjiuitans,  la£ustri£,  and  sylvaticus,  Nuphar  lutea,  Ci^ 
cuta  virosa,  Menyanthes  trifoliata,  Lythrum  salicaria. 


324 


FIFESHIUE. 


Balcarres  Den,  so  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of  view,  is  no 
less  to  be  admired  for  the  many  beautiful  specimens  which  it  yields 
to  the  researches  of  the  botanist.    Silcne  injiata  and  acuuUs,  Stel- 
laria  nemorum  and  holostea,  Epilobium  hirsutum  and  tetragonum, 
Geimi  rivale,  Lyshnuchia  nemorum.  Azalea  procumhens,  Scrophu- 
larianodnsa  and  vernalis,  Digitalis  purpurea,  Sium  latifolium,  Chry- 
sosplenivin  oppositifolium,  Oxalis  acetosella,  S^c.  Also  a  considera- 
ble variety  of  the  fern  tribe  occurs  here  : — Aspidium  Jilix  mas, 
Pteris  aquilina,  Bleclinum  boreale,  Botrychium  lunaria,  Aspidium 
lonchitis,  Adiantum  capillis  veneris.   Towards  the  higher  and  more 
sterile  parts  of  the  parish,  we  meet  with  the  usual  plants  which 
characterize  such  districts.  Campanula  latifolia,  Prunella  vulgaris, 
Jasione  montana,  Euphrasia  officinalis,  Pedicularis palustris,  Bart- 
sia  Odontites,  Vaccinium  vitis  idea.  Erica  cinerea,  Eriophorum 
angustifolium,  Briza  media,  8fc. 

Woods  or  Plantations. — There  are  no  natural  woods  in  this  pa- 
rish, but  few  parishes  in  Scotland  are  so  richly  covered  with  plan- 
tations.   Most  of  the  proprietors  have  their  residences  in  the  pa- 
rish, and  round  their  mansions  are  extensive  plantations  tastefully 
laid  out.    Looking  down  from  Reres  on  the  inclined  plain  to  the 
south,  it  appears  like  one  richly  wooded  domain.    The  plantations 
of  Balcarres,  Charleton,  Pitcorthie,  Cairnie,  Kilconquhar,  and 
Elie,  all  seem  to  unite.    Looking  to  the  north  from  the  same 
eminence,  the  woods  around  Lathallan  and  Gilston,  with  the 
thriving  plantations  of  Kilbrachmont  and  Falfield,  give  to  that 
hiffh  district  also  a  clothed  and  sheltered  appearance.    There  are 
nearly  1000  imperial  acres  including  hedge-rows  under  wood  in 
the  parish.    The  most  valuable  wood  is  around  Balcarres,  many 
of  the  trees  being  nearly  200  years  old,  and  of  large  size.  In 
Balcarres  Den   are  nearly  100  acres  of  valuable  hard  wood, 
planted  about  eighty  years  ago.    The  trees  are  of  great  height, 
but,  from  being  planted  in  a  deep  ravine,  are  little  observed.  The 
kinds  of  trees  that  seem  to  agree  best  with  the  soil  and  climate  are 
ash,  elm,  oak,  beech,  and  plane-tree.    Larch,  except  in  sheltered 
situations,  does  not  thrive  here.    The  genuine  red  pine  or  Scotch 
fir,  which  formerly  used  to  be  planted,  and  was  a  valuable  wood, 
seems  now  to  be  supplanted  by  a  soft  yellow  pine,  having  much 
the  same  appearance,  but  of  such  inferior  quality  as  to  be  fit  for 
little  else  than  fire-wood. 

Zoology.  There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  zoology.  From 

our  having  so  much  wood  we  have  great  quantities  of  birds  of  all 


KILCONQUHAR. 


325 


the  kinds  common  to  the  country,  also  a  great  deal  of  game,  con- 
sisting of  pheasants,  partridges,  hares,  &c.  Roe  deer  are  some- 
times seen  in  the  plantations  in  the  higher  part  of  the  parish,  and 
there  are  great  quantities  of  rabbits.  There  used  to  be  two  rabbit- 
warrens,  one  in  the  St  Ford  Links,  a;nd  one  in  the  Grange  or 
Earlsferry  Links,  hut,  from  the  skins  having  fallen  so  much  in 
price,  the  rabbits  have  been  destroyed,  and  the  greater  part  of  the 
links  have  been  ploughed.  * 

II. — Civil  History. 

Parochial  Registers. — There  are  no  printed  nor  manuscript 
historical  accounts  of  this  parish,  so  far  as  known  to  the  writer, 
except  the  parochial  registers,  which  commence  in  1631,  and  have 
been  regularly  kept  ever  since. 

This  parish  originally  comprehended  the  whole  of  the  parish 
of  Elie,  and  the  barony  of  St  Monance.  Sir  William  Scott  of 
Ardross,  who  was  proprietor  of  all  the  lands  now  constituting 
the  parish  of  Elie,  got  them  erected  into  a  separate  parish  in  1639, 
he  becoming  bound  to  furnish  a  church  for  the  new  parish,  with  a 
manse  and  glebe  for  the  minister;  and  expressly  stipulating,  that 
the  stipend  then  allocated  on  his  lands,  and  payable  to  the  minister 
of  Kilcon^uhar,  should  continue  to  be  so  paid  in  all  time  coming. 

The  late  incumbent  of  the  parish  of  Elie  made  an  attempt  to 
get  the  whole  of  the  teinds,  and  raised  a  process  before  the  Court 
of  Session  to  get  this  agreement  set  aside.  The  heritors  of  Kil- 
conquhar  appeared  as  defenders,  and  after  some  litigation  the  pro- 
cess was  dropped. 

The  present  parish  church  of  St  Monance  was  a  chapel  in  this 
parish  previously  to  the  annexation  of  that  barony  to  the  parish  of 
Abercrombie  in  1646. 

Burgh  of  Earlsferry.— burgh  is  very  ancient.  The  ori- 
ginal charter  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  Edinburgh,  and  its  date  is 
not  ascertained.  A  new  charter  was  granted  by  James  VI.  in 
1589,  which  commences  in  these  words :  "  James,  by  the  grace 
of  God  King  of  the  Scots,  to  all  honest,  good,  and  virtuous  men 
of  this  land,  aither  cleriks  or  laiciks,  greeting.  Wit  ye  because  we 
understanding  the  burgh  of  Earlsferry  of  old,  past  memory  of  men, 
was  erected  into  ane  free  burgh,  with  ail  privileges,  liberties,  free- 
doms, and  immunities,"  &c.    By  this  charter  all  its  privileges 

•  Rookeries  are  encouraged  here  to  a  very  liui  tful  extent.  Crows  are  aUowed  to  mul- 
tiply so  much  as  to  prevent  almost  entirely  the  sowing  of  spring  wheat,  which  would 
otherwise  be  cuHivated  to  a  considerable  extent,  our  light  soil  being  well  adapted  for 
It.  Wherever  it  is  now  sown,  it  is  devoured  by  crows  alighting  in  thousands  upon 
It,  and  tearing  up  the  seed  just  when  it  begins  to  point  through  the  ground  in  spring. 


326 


FIFESHIRE, 


were  renewed  and  confirmed.    The  origin  of  tliis  burgh  is  as- 
cribed to  Macduff  Thane  of  Fife,  who,  when  fleeing  from  the 
usurper  Macbeth,  was  obhged  to  take  shelter  in  the  cave  already 
mentioned  in  Kincraig-ness,  where,  remaining  in  concealment  for 
a  time,  he  received  great  kindness  from  the  fishermen  of  this  vil- 
lage, who  afterwards  ferried  him  across  the  Frith  to  Dunbar.  In 
return  for  these  kind  attentions,  Macduff  is  said  to  have  got  Mal- 
com  III.  betwixt  1057  and  1093,  to  erect  the  village  into  a  royal 
burgh,  calling  it  Earlsferry,  with  the  privilege,  that  the  persons  of 
all  who  should  cross  the  Frith  from  this  place  should  be  inviolable, 
or  safe  from  their  pursuers,  and  that  no  boat  should  be  allowed  to 
sail  in  pursuit  of  them  till  they  were  half  way  across.    A  consi- 
derable trade  seems  at  one  time  to  have  been  carried  on  here. 
By  the  charter,  the  provost  and  bailies  are  authorized  to  hold  two 
annual  fairs  and  two  weekly  markets,  and  to  levy  dues  and  cus- 
toms.   The  want  of  a  proper  harbour,  however,  must  always  have 
been  a  great  drawback  to  the  trade  of  this  place.   Since  the  erec- 
tion of  a  pier,  and  the  formation  of  a  harbour  at  Elie,  which  is 
just  adjoining  Earlsferry,  the  trade  has  naturally  been  transferred 
to  that  port,  and  these  weekly  markets  and  annual  fairs  have  long 
been  discontinued.  The  burghs  of  Earlsferry,  Falkland,  Newburgh, 
and  Auchtermuchty,  some  time  prior  to  the  Union,  were  reheved 
from  the  burden,  as  it  was  then  esteemed,  of  sending  commis- 
sioners, whom  they  were  obliged  to  pay,  to  represent  them  in  Par- 
liament.   Being  thus  by  their  own  desire  disfranchised  as  burghs, 
they  are  now,  with  the  other  villages  in  Fife,  thrown  into  the  county 
constituency.. 

The  minister  of  this  parish  had  his  manse  and  glebe  at  Earls- 
ferry, and  resided  there  till  1717,  when  land  was  allotted  for  a 
glebe  at  Kilconquhar,  and  a  manse  built  upon  it.  The  proprietor 
of  the  estate  of  Elie  gave  the  glebe  at  Kilconquhar  in  exchange 
for  that  at  Earlsferry,  which  he  bequeathed  to  the  kirk-session  of 
Elie,  for  behoof  of  the  poor  of  that  parish.  The  circumstance  of 
the  minister  residing  at  Earlsferry,  may  account  for  the  mscrip- 
tion  of  Macduff's  Cross  being  engrossed  on  the  title-page  of  the 
first  volume  of  our  parochial  register.  * 

Mansion  Houses.—  There  are  six  family  residences  in  the  pa- 
rish, viz.  Balcarres,  Kilconquhar  House,  Charleton,  Lathallan,  Fal- 
field  and  Cairnie. 

*  Sec  this  inscription,  with  an  account  of  it,  in  a  note,  page  70,  in  the  Stafisical 
Account  of  Newburgh,  by  the  able  and  learned  minister  of  that  parish. 


KILCONQUHAR. 


327 


Valued  Rents. — The  valued  rent  of  the  different  properties  in 
the  parish  is  as  follows  : 

Kilconquhar,  Sir  Henry  Lindesay  Bethuno,  Bart.  -       L.  2023  14  8  Scots. 

Balciirres,  Colonel  James  Lindsay,      -           ■>  -           2144  19  4 

St  Ford,  Sir  Wyndham  Carmichael  Anstruther,  Bart.      -       1146    6  4 

Reres,  Robert  Bayne  Dalgliesh,  Esq.             -  -            827    0  0 

Kincraig,  Miss  Gourlay,              -          -           -  -       534  18  10 

Lathallan,  James  Lumsdaine,  Esq.      .           .  -            463    6  8 

Charleton,  John  Anstruther  Thomson,  Esq.         -  -       408  II  11 

Grange,  Sir  John  Malcom,  Bart.        -          -  -            319    f.  8 

North  Falfield,  Bethune  James  Walker,  Esq.       -  -       291  10  0 

Grangehill,  Alexander  Wood,  Esq.      ...  280  14  10 

Bruntshields,  Heirs  of  Misses  Herd,         -           -  -       218  10  0 

South  Falfield,  James  Wyld,  Esq.        -          -  -            174    0  0 

Cairnie,  MelviUe  Dalyell,  Esq.      -          -           -  -       102  19  I 

Amount  of  valued  rent,       -       L.  9346    3  4 

The  real  rent  of  the  parish  is  about  L.  9000  per  annum. 
None  of  the  heritors  have  so  low  an  income  as  L.  50  per  an- 
num. 

The  only  noble  family  connected  with  the  parish  is  that  of 
Balcarres. 

The  Earl  of  Balcarres  is  patron  of  the  parish,  and  titular  of  the 
teinds. 

Family  of  Lindesay. — The  first  authentic  mention  of  the  family 
of  Lindesay  is  in  the  time  of  David  I.  in  1188,  when  two  brothers, 
Walter  and  William  de  Lindesay,  stood  high  in  this  King's  favour. 

The  house  of  Lamberton  sprang  from  Walter  de  Lindesay,  and 
is  now  extinct  in  the  male  line.  The  last  lineal  descendant  in  the 
female  line  is  the  Duchesse  d'Angouleme.  The  house  of  Craw- 
furd  sprang  from  William.  His  descendants  distinguished  them- 
selves in  Scottish  history,  and  one  of  them  was  created  Earl  of 
Crawfurd  in  1398. 

The  family  of  Balcarres  branched  off  from  that  of  Crawfurd  in 
1558,  in  the  person  of  John,  second  son  of  David,  eighth  Earl  of 
Crawfurd,  Knight  of  Edzell.  This  John  settled  at  Balcarres,  which, 
with  several  other  estates,  were  erected  into  a  barony  in  1592. 
He  was  one  of  the  Octavians  or  secret  council  of  eight,  in  whom 
the  control  of  the  Exchequer,  and  administration  of  public  af- 
fairs, was  vested  after  the  death  of  Chancellor  Maitland.  His  son 
David  was  created  first  Lord  Balcarres,  and  his  grandson  Alex- 
ander first  Earl.  Alexander  took  an  active  part  in  favour  of  the 
exiled  monarch,  and  died  at  Breda  in  exile  in  1G60,  immediately 
before  the  restoration  of  Charles  H.  His  body  was  brought 
home  and  interred  in  the  chapel  at  Balcarres.  This  chapel  was 
built  by  David  first  Lord  Balcarres,  who  was  interred  here,  as  also 
Alexander,  already  mentioned,  Charles,  Colin,  Alexander,  and 
James,  all  Earls  of  Balcarres,  and  the  Honourable  Robert  Lind- 


328 


FIFESHIRE. 


"say,  (second  son  of  Earl  James),  to  whose  family  the  estate  now 
belongs.    The  present  proprietor  is  Colonel  James  Lindsay,  late 
representative  in  Parliament  of  the  county  of  Fife. 

The  Earl  of  Balcarres  is  now  a  British  peer,  and  resides  on  his 
estates  in  England. 

Sir  Henry  Lindesay  Bethune,  the  proprietor  of  the  estate  of 
Kilconquhar,  is  also  sprung  from  the  noble  family  of  Crawfurd, 
and  represents  the  Lindesays  of  Pyatstone.  Sir  Henry  was  lately 
created  a  Baronet  for  his  distinguished  services  in  Persia,  where, 
by  his  singular  energy  and  ability  as  a  soldier,  he  mainly  contri- 
buted to  place  the  present  Schah  on  the  throne.  Sir  Henry  is 
now  at  the  court  of  Persia,  and  holds  a  high  command  in  the 
Persian  army. 

The  family  of  Gourlay,  proprietors  of  Kincraig,  have  possessed 
this  property  upwards  of  500  years. 

HI. — Population. 

In  1753  the  population  was  2131 

1794,  -  .  2013 

1814,  -  -  2312 

1821,  -  -  2317 

1831,  -  -  2540  exclusive  of  70  seamen. 

1834,  -  -  2749 

1836,  -  -  2732 

Three  villages  contain  nearly  two-thirds- of  the  population. 

Males.  Fe?na?es.  Total. 

Earlsferry,         -         -        309          340  649 

Kilconquhar  and  Barnyards,  256          302  538 

Colinsburgh,       -        -        239          322  561 

Country  population,       -      456          508  964 

1260        1472  2732 
Excess  of  females,       -  212 

The  females  exceed  the  males  nearly  8  per  cent.,  but  the  males 
bear  a  much  nearer  proportion  to  the  females  in  the  rural  districts 
of  the  parish  than  in  the  villages.  In  the  former,  the  females  ex- 
ceed the  males  only  6  per  cent.,  in  the  latter  11  per  cent.  This 
may  be  accounted  for,  by  single  women  finding  cheaper  houses 
and  more  employment  in  the  villages  than  in  the  countrj^ 

The  following  is  the  state  of  births  and  marriages  for  last  seven 
years ; 


[Years. 

Birlhs. 

Males. 

Females. 

Marrii 

1829, 

68 

36 

32 

17 

1830, 

58 

27 

31 

13 

1831, 

53 

29 

24 

16 

1832, 

66 

31 

33 

28 

1833, 

68 

32 

86 

22 

1834, 

79 

39 

40 

16 

1835, 

34 

29 

23 

22 

Total, 

"446 

223 

223 

136 

Average, 

63f 

3lf 

311^ 

KILCONQUHAR. 


329 


It  is  rather  remarkable  that  the  births  of  males  and  females, 
though  different  in  different  years,  are  precisely  the  same  in  seven 
years.  There  is  nearly  one  birth  to  43  persons,  and  one  marriage 
to  140,  or  more  properly  70,  and  3;^  births  to  each  marriage. 

The  following  table  will  shew  the  numbers  and  ages  of  the  per- 
sons who  have  died  during  the  last  seven  years  : 


Yeat's. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

Average 

1829, 

18 

22 

40 

32 

1830, 

21 

19 

40 

50 

1831, 

19 

24 

43 

48 

1S32, 

14 

25 

39 

47 

J  833, 

23 

13 

35 

38 

1834, 

28 

35 

63 

34 

1835, 

20 

27 

47 

38 

Total, 

143 

165 

3(18 

287 

Average, 

20f 

23a 

44 

41 

One  person  to  62  has  died  yearly.  The  average  age  has  been  41 . 
The  births  have  exceeded  the  deaths  138  in  the  seven  years. 

The  following  table  will  show  more  particularly  the  ages  of  the 
persons  who  have  died  last  seven  years. 

Under 


10 

20 

30 

40 

60 

60 

70 

80 

90 

100 

1829, 

14 

18 

19 

24 

26 

29 

32 

34 

38 

39 

1830, 

7 

12 

16 

18 

18 

20 

26 

31 

37 

40 

1831, 

7 

'  10 

13 

14 

19 

22 

26 

36 

43 

43 

1832, 

7 

8 

10 

12 

16 

17 

21 

29 

37 

39 

1833, 

7 

12 

17 

19 

22 

26 

27 

29 

86 

36 

1834, 

25 

29 

30 

34- 

36 

38 

41 

48 

63 

63 

1835, 

6 

11 

12 

16 

18 

25 

86 

39 

47 

47 

-I  Above 
I  100 
1 


The  person  who  died  in  1829  above  100  was  a  female  who  was 
born  in  this  parish,  and  whose  name  and  birth  are  recorded  in  our 
session  books.  She  was  one  hundred  years  and  four  months  when 
she  died.  She  kept  an  inn  or  public-house  in  Colinsburgh  for 
more  than  seventy  years.  She  was  of  a  placid  cheerful  disposition, 
was  temperate,  but  said  that  she  had  never  been  particular  as  to 
what  she  ate  or  drank. 


Persons  under  1 5  years, 

981 

above  15  and  below  50, 

.  1265 

above  50  and  below  70, 

.  357 

above  70, 

129 

Bachelors  above  50, 

27 

Widowers  above  50,  . 

31 

Unmarried  females  above  45, 

68 

Widows,    .     ■  . 

99 

Insane  persons, 

4 

Fatuous,  ..... 

4 

Deaf  and  dumb, 

.  2 

Blind,  

There  are  655  families,  counting  each  separate  lodging  a  family, 
which  make  4^  for  each  family.    Many  single  persons,  however, 


330 


FIFESHIRE. 


occupy  separate  lodgings,  so  that  families,  properly  so  styled,  must 
be  considerably  larger. 

The  language  spoken  here,  especially  by  the  young,  is  better  than 
in  most  parts  of  Scotland.  This  is  owing  chiefly  to  our  having 
good  schools,  and  the  youth  being  in  general  better  educated. 

There  is  nothing  particular  in  the  appearance,  the  manners,  or 
customs  of  the  people.  They  enjoy  in  a  reasonable  degree  the 
comforts  and  advantages  of  society,  and  are  generally  contented 
with  their  condition  and  circumstances.  It  may  be  mentioned  as 
a  proof  of  the  regularity  of  their  conduct,  that  during  the  last 
twenty-three  years,  which  is  the  period  that  the  present  incumbent 
has  resided  amongst  them,  there  has  not  been  an  instance  of  a 
person  belonging  to  this  parish  having  been  brought  to  a  justiciary 
trial. 

The  comfort  in  which  the  inhabitants  live  may  appear  from  the 
circumstance  of  our  bakers  using  annually  about  1000  quarters  of 
wheat  in  bread;  and  our  butchers  killing  and  selling  weekly  upon 
an  average  12  animals,  including  bullocks,  sheep,  lambs,  veal,  &c. 
Besides  which,  about  600  pigs  are  yearly  fed  and  used  by  cot- 
tagers and  others.  Several  families,  too,  in  the  higher  ranks,  use 
their  own  mutton,  lambs,  &c. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture,  according  to  the  most  improved  system,  is  prac- 
tised here ;  and  in  few  parts  of  Scotland  does  the  same  extent  of 
land  produce  so  much  corn,  and  other  varieties  of  food.  The 
whole  parish  except  a  few  rocky  spots,  and  what  is  covered  with 
wood  and  roads,  and  about  200  acres  of  links,  is  either  under  til- 
lage, or  laid  down  for  pasture  in  an  improved  state,  after  being 
enclosed  and  drained. 

The  system  of  cropping  generally  followed  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  parish  is  a  rotation  of  four  years,  consisting  of  two  green  and 
two  white  crops,  viz.  first  year  grass ;  second,  oats  ;  third,  potatoes, 
beans,  or  turnips  ;  fourth,  wheat  or  barley  with  grass  seeds  ;  wheat 
being  commonly  sown  after  potatoes,  and  barley  after  turnips. 
Where  the  green  crop  has  been  potatoes  in  the  one  rotation,  it  is 
generally  turnips  in  the  other,  so  that  potatoes  and  turnips,  wheat 
and  barley,  seldom  occur  more  than  twice  or  thrice  on  the  same 
fields  during  the  currency  of  a  nineteen  years  lease. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  parish,  much  of  the  land  is  laid  dowii 
in  grass  for  pasture,  and  when  ploughed,  a  less  regular  rotation  is 
followed.  Little  wheat  is  sown.  Two  crops  of  oats  are  frequently 
taken  after  grass ;  and  barley  is  generally  sown  after  potatoes  and 
turnips. 


KILCONQUHAR. 


331 


There  are  28  farms  of  above  L.  50  yearly  rent ;  84  ploughs,  all 
drawn  by  horses,  no  oxen  being  employed  in  husbandry  here. 
Each  plough  has  two  horses,  and  each  farm  a  spare  horse,  making 
about  200  horses  employed  in  cultivating  the  soil.  All  the  far- 
mers are  in  the  practice  of  rearing  young  horses.  These  may  be 
stated  at  one  annually  for  every  three  working  horses  upon  the 
farm ;  and  as  they  are  not  generally  sold  till  they  are  three  or  four 
years  old,  they  may  be  reckoned  about  equal  in  number  to  the 
others,  making  about  400;  besides  which  there  are  about  30 
carriage  and  riding  horses,  making  in  all  about  430  horses  in  the 
parish. 

About  250  cattle  are  annually  fed  upon  turnips,  and  about  an 
equal  number  on  grass,  so  as  to  be  fit  for  the  butcher.  A  con- 
siderable part  of  these  are  bought  by  dealers  from  a  distance,  who 
drive  them  to  the  Glasgow  or  Dundee  markets.  Young  cattle 
and  milk  cows  may  be  about  double  that  number,  making  about 
1500  cattle,  young  and  old,  in  the  parish.  The  kind  of  cattle 
bred  here  is  the  Fife,  with  a  mixture  of  Teeswater  in  some  in- 
stances. Considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  breeding  of  cattle. 
The  east  of  Fife  Agricultural  Society  hold  their  meetings  in  Co- 
linsburgh,  and  give  premiums  to  encourage  breeders.  Few  sheep 
are  kept  except  in  parks  round  gentlemen's  houses.  Cheviot  sheep 
are  those  most  generally  kept. 

Produce. — The  average  amount  of  raw  produce  may  be  stated 
as  under : 

Acres.     Quarters  per  acre.    Price  per  quarter.  Total. 
Wheat,       330       .       4i  .         L.  2  10    0  .  L.  3935    0  0 

Barley,       300       .       4^  .  1  10    0  .  2025    0  0 

Oats,    .      700       .       5^  .  1    2    0  .  4235    0  0 

Beans,    .    150       .       31  .  1  10    0  .  787    0  0 

Potatoes,  300  5  tons  per  acre,  at  L.  1 ,  lOs.  per  ton,  .  .  2250  0  0 
Turnips,     300  at  L.  7  per  acre,       .  .  .         .         .       2100    0  0 

Hay,     ,     250  at  L.  10  per  acre,  ....  2500    0  0 

Flax,     .       50  at  L.  10  per  acre,         ....  500    0  0 

Pasture,     2000  at  L.  1,  15s.  per  acre,  ....    3500    0  0 

Thinnings  of  wood,  300    0  0 

Cattle,  supposing  300  annually  sold  at  L.;io  each,  =  L.  5000.  AUow- 

mg  the  farmer  20  per  cent,  of  profit  after  deducting  grass,  turnips,  &c.  1000    0  0 
Horses,  suppose  50  annually  sold  at  L.  20  each,  and  allowing  the  far- 
mer 20  per  cent,  profit,    500    0  0 

Coal  and  hme,        .......       6000    0  0 

Miscellaneous  produce,  including  pigs,  sheep,  butter,  cheese,  &c.       .    1000    0  0 

Total  ye  arly  value  of  raw  produce,       .       L.  30,632    0  0 

Rent  of  Land.—The  average  rent  of  land  is  L.  2  per  acre. 
Leases  are  generally  for  nineteen  years. 

iEa^e  of  ^a^/es.— Farm-servants  are  generally  hired  by  the  year. 
Married  men  get  each  a  house,  and  wages  paid  partly  in  kind  and 
partly  m  money,  amounting  to  L.  22  or  L.  24.    Unmarried  men 


332 


FIFESHIRE, 


get  from  L.  10  to  L.  1'2  with  victuals.  Women  servants  get  L,  6 
or  L.  7  per  annum  and  board.  Labourers, — men  have  Is.  6d.  per 
day ;  v^fomen  8d.  per  day  at  ordinary  work,  and  Is.  6d,  in  harvest. 
Masons  and  carpenters  get  from  '2s.  to  3s.  per  day. 

Farm  Buildings. —  Farm  houses  and  offices  are  generally  abun- 
dantly commodious,  and  kept  in  good  condition. 

Fences. — In  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  where  the  soil  is  rich 
and  constantly  under  crop,  there  are  few  enclosures  ;  they  are  con- 
sidered to  be  hurtful  by  harbouring  birds,  and  by  occupying  land 
which  would  otherwise  be  made  productive.  In  the  upper  part, 
where  the  land  is  more  frequently  pastured,  it  is  generally  enclos- 
ed with  stone  dikes,  which  are  kept  in  good  repair. 

Manufactures. — There  are  no  spinning  mills  nor  public  manu- 
factures in  this  parish  ;  235  persons  are  employed  in  weaving,  120 
males,  and  115  females.  The  webs  are  generally  got  from  Kir- 
kaldy,  Kirkland,  or  Dundee,  ready  for  the  loom.  Manufacturers 
in  each  of  these  places  have  agents  here,  for  giving  out,  and  tak- 
ing in  the  work.  The  kinds  of  cloth  worked  here  are  doulasses, 
checks,  and  sheetings.  About  fifteen  young  men  in  Earlsferry 
are  employed  in  weaving  sheetings  from  3  to  4  yards  broad,  at 
which  they  can  earn  from  3s.  to  4s.  a  day. 

The  average  earnings  of  all  the  weavers,  male  and  female,  in  the 
parish  may  be  about  8s.  per  week,  or  L.  4888  per  annum.  A 
great  proportion  of  the  men  employed  in  weaving  have  also  been 
bred  to  the  sea.  From  thirty  to  forty  used  annually  to  go  to  the 
whale-fishing  in  summer,  and  return  to  the  loom  in  winter.  From 
that  fishery  having  been  so  unsuccessful  of  late  years,  few  now  go 
to  it.  About  twenty  or  thirty  now  go  in  the  months  of  J uly  and 
August  to  the  herring  fishing  on  the  north-east  coast  of  Scotland. 

All  the  manufacturing  part  of  the  population  reside  in  the  vil- 
lages. There  is  not  a  weaver  in  the  whole  of  the  landward  part 
of  the  parish. 

Tan  and  Currying-works.— There  is  a  tan-work  in  Kilconquhar, 
and  a  currying-work  in  Colinsburgh,  carried  on  by  the  same  com- 
pany, in  which  leather  is  manufactured  to  the  value  of  L.  14,000 
or  L.  15,000  per  annum.  From  twenty  to  twenty-four  men  are 
employed  in  these  works,  to  whom  about  L.  15  are  paid  weekly  in 
wag  es. 

•  The  following  list  will  give  a  view  of  the  professions  and  occupations  of  part  of 
the  inhabitants  who  have  not  been  mentioned  :  1  surgeon  ;  1  writer  ;  3  cloth-mer- 
chants 13  grocers  ;  12  gardeners  ;  9  bakers  ;  3  butchers ;  16  tailors  ;  29  shoen.akers  ; 
50  wri'-l  ts  •  18  masons  f  1 3  blacksnuths  ;  1  tinsmith  ;  2  saddlers  ;  3  coopers  ;  2  slat- 
ers risTationer  ;  1  hous;  painter  ;  22  sailors;  12  public-houses;  90 persons  employ- 
ed  at  coal  works. 


KILCONQUHAR. 


333 


V, — Parochial  Economy. 

Colinsburgh  is  a  post-town,  in  which  there  is  a  weekly  market 
for  grain,  attended  by  farmers  and  corn-dealers  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. The  corn  is  sold  by  sample,  and  is  chiefly  bought  for  ex- 
portation to  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  &c.  Besides  the  weekly  mar- 
kets, there  are  two  fairs  annually  for  cattle  in  Colinsburgh,  one  in 
June  and  one  in  October.  When  the  Agricultural  Society  meet 
in  March  to  award  their  premiums,  there  is  also  a  public  market 
at  which  many  cattle  are  sold. 

Bank.. — The  Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland  have  an  agency 
here,  which  does  a  good  deal  of  business.  A  Justice  of  Peace 
Court  is  also  regularly  held  here. 

Means  of  Communication. — Two  stage  coaches  pass  daily 
through  the  parish,  one  from  Anstruther  to  Edinburgh  by  Petty- 
cur,  another  from  Anstruther  to  join  the  Largo  steamer,  which 
carries  passengers  to  Edinburgh  twice  a-day  in  summer,  and  once 
a-day  in  winter. 

Excellent  turnpike  roads  run  in  all  directions  through  the  pa- 
rish. The  great  road  from  the  east  to  the  west  of  Fife  along 
the  south  coast,  passes  through  it.  Colinsburgh  is  a  regular 
stage  on  this  road.  Here  there  is  a  good  inn,  with  post-chaises 
and  horses.  There  is  also  another  line  of  turnpike  road  that  runs 
from  south  to  north,  and  which,  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  parish, 
branches  off  in  various  directions  leading  to  St  Andrews,  Cupar, 
Dundee,  &c.  Carriers  from  this  go  weekly  to  Edinburgh,  Kir- 
kaldy,  St  Andrews,  Cupar,  and  all  the  towns  on  the  coast. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church,  which  stands  in  the 
village  af  Kilconquhar,  was  built  in  1820  and  1821.  The  plan 
was  furnished-  and  the  building  erected  by  Messrs  Dickson,  ar- 
chitects, Edinburgh.  It  is  a  handsome  building  in  the  Gothic  style 
of  architecture,  with  a  tower  80  feet  in  height.  The  church  is 
conveniently  situated  for  four-fifths  of  the  population,  but  extreme- 
ly inconveniently  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  part  of  the 
parish,  the  extremity  of  which  is  at  least  seven  miles  distant.  The 
church  contains  sittings  for  1035;  50  sittings  are  allotted  to  the 
poor. 

The  inconvenient  situation  of  the  church  for  the  inhabitants  of 
the  northern  parts  of  the  parish  has  led  to  the  erection  of  a  chapel 
at  Largoward,  which  was  opened  for  public  worship  in  September 
1835,  and  which,  since  that  time,  has  been  regularly  supplied,  by 
the  presbytery  furnishing  supply  the  one  Sabbath,  and  the  minister 
of  the  parish  providing  it  the  other.  A  subscription  has  been  made 


334 


KIFESHIRE. 


for  supporting  a  preacher,  who  may  reside  in  tlie  district,  and  of- 
ficiate regularly  in  the  chapel.  This  chapel  is  on  the  confines  of 
two  other  parishes,  Carnbee,  and  Cameron  ;  and  within  two  miles 
of  it  is  a  population  of  upwards  of  800,  who  are,  some  of  them, 
seven,  and  all  of  them  more  than  two  miles,  from  their  own  parish 
churches.  This  is  a  locality  where  a  new  parish  ought  to  be  erect- 
ed, and  to  which  the  attention  of  the  Royal  Commissioners  is  now 
solicited. 

The  manse  and  offices  were  built  in  1815,  and  are  in  good  con- 
dition. The  glebe  contains  12  acres,  including  the  space  occu- 
pied by  the  manse,  offices,  garden,  &c.  The  land  is  good,  and 
may  be  worth  L.  30  or  L.  35  per  annum.  The  stipend  is  J  7  chal- 
ders,  one-half  meal,  and  one-half  barley,  with  L,  10  for  communion 
elements. 

The  number  of  persons  belonging  to  the  Established  Church 
is  2300.  Divine  service,  both  in  the  church  and  chapel,  is  well  at- 
tended. The  number  of  communicants  belonging  to  the  Esta- 
blished Church  is  1110;  the  number  generally  present  at  the 
time  of  the  communion  about  1000, 

Dissenters. — There  are  four  dissenting  meeting-houses  in  the 
parish,  besides  a  small  Baptist  meeting.  There  is  also  a  meeting 
house  in  Cameron  parish,  just  on  the  borders  of  this,  which  hasas 
great  an  attendance  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parish,  and  is  as  con- 
veniently situated  for  them,  as  any  of  the  others.  These  meeting- 
houses contain  as  many  sittings  as  would  accommodate  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  in  the  parish,  allowing  18  inches  to  each.  They 
contain  upwards  of  2700  sittings.  Not  200  of  these  are  let  to,  or 
occupied  by,  persons  belonging  to  the  parish.  The  number  of  dis- 
senters in  the  parish,  young  and  old,  of  all  denominations,  is  361. 
The  meeting-houses  in  the  parish  belong,  two  to  the  Relief,  one  to 
the  United  Associate  Synod,  and  one  to  the  Independents.  The 
one  in  Cameron  belongs  to  the  United  Associate  Synod.  One  of 
the  Relief  meeting-houses  in  Colinsburgh,  and  the  United  Asso- 
ciate meeting-house  in  Kilconquhar,  were  some  years  ago  sold  for 
debt ;  but  by  some  arrangement  they  are  still  kept  up  as  places  of 
worship,  and  have  ministers.  The  other  Relief  meeting-house  in 
Colinsburgh  is  now  faUing  into  ruins,  and  is  almost  deserted.  The 
Independent  meeting-house,  although  actually  situated  in  this  pa- 
rish, which  runs  close  to  the  village  of  Elie,  was  built,  and  is  sup- 
ported, so  far  as  it  has  support,  chiefly  by  persons  in  Elie.  A  very 
small  number  attend  it.  What  stipends  these  ministers  receive  is 
not  known.    They  must  be  very  small. 


KILCONQUHAR. 


335 


There  are  3  families  of  Episcopalians  in  the  parish,  and  51 
persons  belonging  to  no  religious  communion,  although  some  of 
them  occasionally  attend  the  Established  Church. 

We  have  a  society  for  church  purposes,  composed  of  members 
of  the  Established  Church,  which  distributes  annually  about  L.  30 
for  the  support  and  extension  of  the  gospel. 

Education. — There  are  six  schools  in  the  parish.  Th e  parochial 
schoolmaster  in  Kilconquhar  has  a  salary  of  L.  34,  2s.  4d.  being 
the  maximum.  The  heritors  also  allow  a  salary  of  100  merks  for 
a  school  at  Largoward,  where  the  chapel  is  built.  The  other  four 
schools  have  no  salary.  There  is  also  a  female  school  at  Kilcon- 
quhar. The  number  of  scholars  attending  all  the  schools  is  about 
450,  or  a  sixth  part  of  the  population. 

The  branches  taught  in  the  parish  school  are  English,  writing, 
arithmetic,  Latin,  Greek,  French,  book-keeping,  geography,  al- 
gebra, Euclid's  Elements,  trigonometry,  mensuration,  navigation. 
The  number  of  scholars  studying  Latin  in  this  school  for  the  last 
two  years  has  been  '28,  in  1834  the  number  was  33.  This  school 
is  remarkably  well  taught,  and  the  teacher  Mr  M'Laurin,  having 
a  commodious  house,  has  16  boarders  from  different  parts  of  the 
country.  An  usher  is  kept  to  assist  in  teaching  this  school.  In 
the  other  schools  the  more  ordinary  branches  only  are  taught.  The 
people  in  general  are  alive  to  the  benefits  of  education.  All  the 
children  are  within  easy  reach  of  some  of  the  schools,  and  are 
taught  to  read  and  write. 

Friendly  Societies. — There  were  several  friendly  societies  in  the 
parish,  but,  from  miscalculation  of  the  allowances  to  be  made  to 
their  sick  and  poor  members,  they  have  all  been  broken  up. 

Savings  Bank. — We  have  a  savings  bank,  but,  from  there  being 
now  a  branch  of  the  Commercial  Bank  in  Colinsburgh,  few  com- 
paratively speaking  take  advantage  of  it. 

Poor. — The  average  number  on  the  regular  poor's  list  for  the 
last  ten  years  has  been  36.  About  two-thirds  of  these  either  are 
Dissenters,  or  have  been  Dissenters.  These  proportions  have  been 
nearly  the  same  for  the  last  twenty  years.  The  Dissenters  here 
do  not  provide  for  their  poor,  nor  do  they  contribute  any  thing  to 
the  poor's  funds  of  the  parish.  If  they  give  any  thing  to  the  poor, 
It  is  unknown  to  the  kirk-session,  and  must  be  confined  to  those  of 
their  own  communion.  They  give  nothing  to  any  of  the  poor  of 
the  Establishment. 

The  following  table  will  show  the  amount  and  application  of 
disbursements  for  the  poor,  for  the  last  seven  years  : — 


336  FIFESHIIIE. 

Paid  Ordinary  Poor.  Occnsioiuil  Poor.  Lunatics.  House  Heiits.  Total. 

L.   s.  d.  L.    s.  d.  L.    s.  d.  L.  s.    d.  L.    s.  d. 

1820,       74  14  0  C,  l!t  e  20    4    0  IC  19    0  119  15  6 

1830,       84  10  .H  18  19  29  19  10  12    7    0  145  IC  4J 

1)131,       81     1  11  17    4  0  20  19    9  12    5    0  131  10  « 

1832,  83  18  3  17    «  «  27  19    9  14    7    0  143  11  « 

1833,  75    8  4  29  12  3^  34    6    7  14  12    8  154    0  2^ 

1834,  93    1  7i  29  18  4^  42    3    8^  14  11    0  179  14  8 

1835,  92    1  2^^  7  18  0  38    5  10  14    5    0  152  10  OJ 

Avera-e  Bslo"  9i'      IB    5    3         30    2    9^       14    3    8^       146  14  1 

The  average  amount  of  collections  for  the  poor  at  the  church 
door,  for  the  last  seven  years,  has  annually  been  L.  66,  Is.  4d. 
The  interest  of  money  belonging  to  the  kirk-session  L.  38 ;  pro- 
clamation dues,  L.  2,  4s.  3d;  mortcloth  do.  L.  3,  lis.  9d.,  making 
in  all  L.  109,  17s.  4d.  The  remaining  sum  has  been  raised  by 
a  voluntary  contribution  from  the  heritors  according  to  their  va- 
lued rents. 

Prisons. — There  is  a  jail  in  Earlsferry  in  a  very  wretched  state, 
but  fortunately  we  rarely  have  occasion  to  use  it. 

Observations. 
Local  Advantages.— This  parish  has  many  local  advantages. 
Being  near  the  sea,  we  are  abundantly  supplied  with  all  the  varie- 
ties of  fish  caught  on  the  coast.  We  have  a  plentiful  supply  of 
coals,  which  are  sold  at  the  mouth  of  the  pit,  at  5s.  per  single 
horse  cart-load.  We  have  a  much  greater  quantity  of  all  kinds 
of  agricultural  produce  than  can  be  used  in  the  parish. 

Improvements. —  Since  the  date  of  the  former  Statistical  Account, 
great  improvements  have  been  made  in  agriculture,  particularly  in 
draining  and  turnip  husbandry.  Buildings  of  every  description  are 
greatly  improved,  especially  farm-houses,  which,  from  being  gene- 
rally small  and  covered  with  thatch  or  tile,  are  now  large  and  com- 
modious, and  finished  in  a  style  that  would  have  bfeen  thought 
extravagant  forty  years  ago.  Thrashing-mills  are  now  universal, 
wherever  the  farms  are  of  any  considerable  extent.  There  are 
23  thrashing  mills  in  the  parish,  which  are  still  driven  by  horses. 

A  new  era  is  commencing  for  the  lessening  of  labour,  by  the  in- 
troduction of  steam  engines.  There  are  as  yet  only  six  steam  en- 
gines in  the  parish,  and  only  one  of  these  is  applied  to  a  thrashing 
mill,  namely,  at  the  farm  of  Balniel  Den,  the  property  of  Colonel 
Lindsay.  It  may  safely  be  predicted,  that,  before  another  half 
century  elapses,  it  will  be  as  uncommon  to  see  a  thrashing  mill 
driven  by  horses,  as  it  now  is  to  see  corn  thrashed  with  flails. 

The  number  of  persons  qualified  to  vote  for  a  Member  of  Par- 
liament is  70. 
January  1837. 


PARISH  OF 

ABERCROMBIE  OR  ST  MONAN'S. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ROBERT  SWAN,  MINISTER. 


I- — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

From  authentic  documents  refered  to  by  Sir  John  Connell  in 
his  History  of  Tithes,  Abercrombie  or  Abercrumbin  appears  to 
have  been  a  parish  so  far  back  as  1174. 

Ancient  and  modern  name  of  the  parish. — From  that  time  (and 
it  cannot  be  ascertained  how  long  before)  till  1646,  the  original 
name  was  uniformly  and  exclusively  given  to  it.  Towards  the 
close  of  that  year,  an  addition  which  it  then  received,  quoad  sacra, 
mduced  upon  it  a  twofold  and  less  determinate  designation.  The 
addition  alluded  to  was  the  barony  of  St  Monan's,*  the  property 

•  There  were  several  concurring  circumstances  which  recommended  and  facilitated 
this  annexation.  The  parish  church  of  Abercrombie,  of  great  but  unknown  antiqui- 
ty, had  become  so  rumous  as  to  be  totally  unfit  for  a  place  of  worship.  In  the  baronv 
of  St  Monan's,  there  stood  invitingly  the  unoccupied  chapel  which  went  by  the  same 
name,  greatly  ddapidated  in  some  of  its  compartments  ;  yet  with  so  much  of  it  en- 
tu-e,  and  under  cover,  as  to  make  it  serviceable  (if  such  an  arrangement  could  be  ef. 
fected)  as  a  parish  church  for  the  people  of  Abercrombie,  being  nearer  to  the  bulk 
ot  the  inhabitants  than  their  original  place  of  worship,  while  it  was  also  much  nearer 
than  their  own  parish  church,  to  such  inhabitants  of  Kilconquhar,  as  were  situated 
in  the  south-eastern  parts  of  the  parish,,  and  adjoining  to  Abercrombie.  In  these 
circumstances,  the  idea  appears  to  have  been  taken  uji  by  Sir  James  Sandilands  of  St 
Monans,  and  cordially  entered  into  by  the  Presbytery,  of  having  his  barony,  with  its 
ready  made  church,  disjoiiu'd  from  the  parish  of  Kilconquhar,  andannexed  to  that  of 
Abercrombie,  in  which  there  was  now  no  church  that  could  accommodate  the  pa- 
ruhioners.  The  other  great  heritor,  my  Lord  Abercrombie,  also  a  Sandilands  and 
near  relation  of  Sir  James,  saw  this  to  be  a  desirable  arrangement.  It  removed  no 
doubt  his  usual  place  of  worship  to  a  considerably  greater  distance  than  before  •  but 
It  was  obtaining  a  substantial  edifice  for  that  purpose,  and  abandoning  one  inconven 
ently  situatea  for  the  parish  at  large,  and  hastening  to  ruin. 

It  was  expressly  stipulated  by  the  competent  parties,  that  the  arrangement  fbrief- 
y  referred  to  )  should  be  without  prejudice  to  the  minister  of  KilconqtZr,  who  was 
to  draw  as  hitheito  the  temd.  of  St  Monan's  barony  ;  and  the  minister  of  Ab  >xrombie 
^O  moZ   '^T'r        '""i^?"-*  ^"  •^•'^'"^^  Sandilands  and  him,  to  ec^ve 

!?£n  implied  addition  to  his  parochial  duties,  which  the  foresaid  annex- 

da^e  2uT  L,nV  I  ri«  ""^f  f there  is  the  following  entry  in  the  Presbytery-book, 
PlnnfJ;   •^"ftf '-'PPoi'-ted  to  be  written  to  the  Commissioners  foj 
I-lantation  of  Kirks,  earnestly  recommending  the  uniting  of  Abercrombie  and  St  Mo- 
FIFE.  Y 


338 


PIFESHIRE. 


of  Sir  James  Sandilands,  in  the  immediately  adjoining  parish  of 
Kilconquliar. 

For  some  time  after  the  annexation,  the  parish  was  designed  in 
the  Presbytery  records,  "  Abercrombie  with  St  Monance."  In  the 
course  of  years,  Abercrombie  was  gradually  dropped,  and  St  Mo- 
nan's  came  to  be  the  sole  designation. 

Soon  after  the  induction  of  the  present  incumbent.  May  1804, 
Abercrombie,  agreeably  to  the  wish  of  the  principal  heritor,  was 
revived  as  the  proper  name  of  the  parish,  and  applied  to  it  in  all 
public  documents. 

The  village  of  St  Monan's  takes  its  name  from  a  hermit 
or  religious  recluse,  belonging  to  a  neighbouring  monastery  (Pitten- 
weem,)  who,  in  the  sixth  century,  when  eremite  devotion  was 
more  prevalent  than  now,  is  said  to  have  had  his  abode  here.  The 
precise  spot  pointed  out  as  his  habitation,  is  now  sheltered  by  the 
tiles  and  gray  eaves  of  a  byre,  situated  in  a  snug  recess  amongst  the 
banks,  walls,  and  ruinous  tenements  at  the  west  end  of  the  village, 
with  a  dusky-coloured  mass  of  rock  (hard  whinstone)  overhanging 
it  behind,  and  a  stair  or  gulley  winding  past  it  in  front.  This 
parish  is  situated  upon  the  northern  shore  of  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
nearly  opposite  to  North  Berwick  Law,  and  about  midway  be- 
twixt Fifeness  and  Leven-water,  from  each  of  which  it  is  about  ten 
miles  distant. 

Boundaries  and  Figure.— It  is  bounded  by  the  parishes  of  Elie 
and  Kilconquhar  on  the  west,  that  of  Carnbee  on  the  north,  and 
north-east,  of  Pittenweem  on  the  east,  and  by  the  Forth  on 
the  south.  The  parish  forms  nearly  a  parallelogram ;  its  breadth 
from  east  to  west  an  English  mile,  its  length  from  south  to  north 

a  mile  and  a-half. 

Topographical  Appearances.— Therek  a  very  abrupt  ascent  from 
the  low  and  rocky  beach,  consisting  of  sandstone  and  limestone,  to 
the  arable  part  of  the  parish.  This  arable  land,  in  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile,  declines  to  the  north  ;  it  afterwards  reascends  gently,  till  it 
reaches  its  highest  elevation  at  the  farm-house  and  steading  of 
Abercrombie. 

From  this  point  the  ground  falls  in  all  directions,  stretching 

nance  in  a  parish,  and  Sir  James  Sandilands  desired  to  secure  what  he  conditions 
to  that  purpose."  After  various  other  steps  of  procedure,  the  business  was  closed,  21st 
of  October  164C  ,  and  accordingly,  20th  December  that  year,  it  was  duly  intniiated, 
that  the  next  day,  and  in  all  time  coming,  the  place  of  meeting  for  service  shall  be  at 
the  kirk  of  St  Monan's,  because,  &c.  &c. 


ABERCROMBIE. 


339 


north-west,  almost  in  a  dead  level,  to  the  extremity  of  the  parish. 
There  are,  however,  undulations  of  the  surface  which  give  beauty 
and  variety  to  the  landscape,  now  greatly  improved  by  the  thriving 
and  well  disposed  plantations  of  Sir  Ralph  A.  Anstruther. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious.  In  winter  and  early  spring 
there  are  occasionally  violent  gales  from  the  south-east,  of  several 
days  continuance.  The  effect  of  these  is  the  detaching  and  bring- 
ing ashore  an  immense  quantity  of  sea-weed,  which  the  farmers 
on  Sir  Wyndham  Anstruther's  estates  secure  with  great  alacrity, 
as  making  excellent  manure. 

Hydrography.— In  striking  contrast  to  our  southern  boundary, 
the  majestic  Forth,  we  have,  as  our  boundary  on  the  west  and 
north-west,  the  small  stream  anciently  called  Inweary,  rising  in 
adjacent  marshes  in  Kilconquhar  parish,  and,  after  a  course  of  two 
miles,  faUing  into  the  Forth  close  by  the  old  church  of  St  Monan's. 

On  the  north-east  we  have  the  burn  of  Dreel,  arising  in  the 
heights  of  Baldutho,  and  after  a  course  of  five  or  six  miles,  with 
Carnbee  and  West  Anstruther  parishes  on  the  left  bank,  and  Aber- 
crornbie  and  Pittenweem  on  the  right,  falling  into  the  Forth  at 
West  Anstruther. 

There  are  several  perennial  springs  in  the  parish,  the  water 
excellent,  and  well  adapted  for  all  domestic  purposes.  The  rain- 
ing connected  with  the  coal  is  said  to  have  drained  some  of  the 
prmcipal  wells.  There  is  a  spring  within  high- water-mark,  and 
supposed  to  be  of  a  ferruginous  quality. 

Geology.— The  position  of  the  rocks  along  the  sea  shore  is 
much  diversified,  and  their  stratification  very  varied.  The  geo- 
logical history  and  character,  or  probable  origin  of  the  rocks,  in 
their  various  dips  and  bearings,  the  present  incumbent  does  not 
pretend  to  give  in  scientific  phrase.  But  if  there  be  a  feature  es- 
pecially prominent  in  the  rocks,  which  bristle  upon  our  formidable 
shore,  it  is,  that,  consisting  of  sandstone,  limestone,  and  till,  they 
run  out  from  the  land  in  parallel  ridges,  of  different  elevations. 

The  direction  of  these  ridges  is  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.,  and  their 
dip  to  the  S.  E.  in  various  angles  to  the  horizon. 

A  wider  opening  than  occurs  in  general  betwixt  these  ridges, 
(about  200  feet)  presents  an  obvious  and  natural  harbour,  oppo- 
site to  the  middle  of  the  village.  The  sides  of  this  inlet,  in- 
stead of  dipping  like  consecutive  ridges  in  one  direction,  expand 
and  mutually  fall  back,  forming  a  spacious  entrance,  of  which  due 


340 


PIFESHIRE. 


advantage  has  been  taken  in  forming  the  harbour,  afterwards  no- 
ticed. 

Coal — There  are  said  to  be  six  seams  of  coal  in  the  barony  of 
St  Monan's,  splent  and  cherry.  Those  seams  range  in  thickness 
from  18  inches  to  7  feet.  In  former  times  the  coal  here  was 
wrought  to  the  depth  of  ten  fathoms;  but  it  had  been  given 
up  for  twenty-five  years,  when  it  was  resumed,  about  nine  years 
ago,  the  shafts  being  driven  to  the  depth  of  27  fathoms.  For 
eighteen  months,  the  working  of  the  coal  has  been  wholly  aban- 
doned, owing  to  the  tacksman  not  having  capital  to  meet  the  re- 
quisite outlay,  and  the  engine  not  having  been  judiciously  placed. 
Wrought  in  an  effective  manner,  it  might  have  afforded  employ- 
ment for  one  hundred  persons.  The  number  actually  employed 
is  said  not  to  have  exceeded  thirty.  It  is  believed  that  a  person 
or  company  of  capital  and  enterprise,  might  make  the  coal  here  a 
very  profitable  concern.  » 

There  are  understood  to  be  several  seams  of  coal  in  the  lands 

of  Abercrombie. 

Limestone.— i:heve  is  abundance  of  limestone  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  village,  and  held  to  be  of  excellent  quality.  So 
rapidly,  however,  is  it  found  to  dip  to  the  south-east,  and  so  deep  is 
the  tirring  required,  that  the  working  of  the  limestone  has  not  been 
found  to  pay.  It  was  also  much  against  the  burning  and  sale  of 
the  lime,  that  the  working  of  the  coal  came  to  be  finally  abandon- 
ed. 

The  limestone  rock,  or  dike,  as  it  is  technically  termed,  goes  very 
deep,  and  is  understood  to  be  continued  under  and  across  the  vil- 
lage, till  it  reappear,  with  very  prominent  features,  running  like  the 
other  ridges  on  each  side  of  it,  on  to  the  sea. 

/roTistone.— Ironstone  is  found  in  considerable  quantities  upon 
the  beach.  There  are  regular  bands  or  bars  of  ironstone  imbed- 
bed  in  the  till ;  but  it  is  chiefly  found  in  the  form  of  small  stones, 
of  one  or  two  pounds  weight.  The  proportion  of  iron  to  the  whole 
of  the  ironstone  is  from  18  to  12  cwt.  in  the  ton.  The  tacks- 
man of  the  ironstone  receives  for  it,  when  shipmasters  take  it  as 
ballast,  9s.  per  24  cwt. 

Soils.— T\\e  nature  of  the  soil  is  well  described  by  the  late  in- 
cumbent. It  is  a  light  loam,  and  friable,  with  very  little  clay,  all 
quite  free  of  stones,  and  very  fertile  and  manageable.  It  is  pe- 
culiarly well  adapted  for  green  crops,  but  yields  all  the  usual  crops 
in  abundance. 


ACKRCROMBIE. 


341 


II. — Civil  History. 

Ancient  or  Modern  Accoimts.—The  most  ancient  original  docu- 
ment connected  with  the  parish  that  I  have  seen,  is  a  charter 
granted  to  the  feuars  of  St  Monan's  by  Sir  WiUiam  Sandilands,  of 
date  1622.  One  of  the  most  important  clauses  in  this  instrument, 
IS  that  by  which  the  «  said  bailies,  council,  feuars,  and  inhabitants 
of  our  said  town  of  St  Monance,  their  heirs  and  successors,  shall 
be  holden  and  restricted  to  repair,  beet  and  uphold  the  kirk  and 
kirk-yard  dikes  of  St  Monance,  in  timber,  slate,  lime,  and  glass, 
sufficiently,  as  effeirs,  in  all  time  coming."  This  clause,  as  we  shall 
see,  was  not  lost  sight  of  by  the  heritors  of  future  days. 

Occurrejices,  ^fc— The  most  memorable  occurrences  with  us 
are  losses  by  sea,  from  swamping  of  boats  and  other  accidents.  In 
the  course  of  the  present  incumbency,  now  running  thirty-three 
years,  four  boats  have  perished  with  five  valuable  lives  in  each,  one 
with  four,  and  another  with  three. 

These  boats'  crews  are  generally  composed  of  near  relations,  and 
hence  the  catastrophe  becomes  the  more  afflicting  to  survivors. 

It  often  falls  to  the  minister  to  intimate  such  disasters.  Sus- 
picions have  probably  been  already  awakened;  and  his  appearing 
at  an  unusual  hour,  confirms  the  worst  fears,  and  produces  the 
most  heart  rending  lamentations. 

It  would  seem  a  sanctifying  of  these  severe  dispensations,  that 
they  awaken  and  bring  into  substantial  exercise  a  great  deal  of 
good  feeling,— not  only  among  the  parishioners,  but  throughout  the 
country  at  large.  Upon  occasion  of  a  late  signal  catastrophe,  in 
which  our  neighbours  at  Pittenweem  deeply  shared,  there  were  up- 
wards of  L.  700  subscribed  for  the  families  of  the  suff-erers.  Gen- 
tlemen in  the  neighbourhood  not  only  gave  their  money,  but  their 
humane  and  particular  attention,  to  the  best  disposal  of  the  funds 
which  were  raised.  Much  praise  is  due  on  this  account  to  Sir 
Kalph  Anstruther,  Colonel  Lindsay,  Mr  Smythe,  Mr  Nairne  and 
others.  ' 

Eminent  Characters.-Theve  is  one  person  of  note  in  Bri- 
tish history,  connected  with  the  parish,  if  not  by  birth,  by 
residence  and  burial.  Lieutenant- General  David  Leslie  He 
was  son  of  Lord  Lindores  in  Fife,  and,  according  to  Sibbald, 
(History  of  Fife,  Cupar  edition,  1803,  p.  335,)  created  Lord 
Newark  by  Charles  11.  The  name  of  Newark  had  belonged  to  the 
residence  of  Sir  James  Sandilands,  who  was  also  designed  of  St 


342 


FIFESHIRE. 


Monan's.  The  property  having  become  David  Leshe's  by  pur- 
chase, he  was,  in  1661,  ennobled  by  the  name  of  this  acquisition. 

The  writer  of  this  account  has  always  understood,  that  this  is 
the  General  Leslie  who  made  so  distinguished  a  figure  in  the  un- 
happy civil  wars  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century.  He 
defeated  Montrose  at  Philiphaugh,  13th  September  1645,  for 
which  acceptable  service  the  Parliament  voted  him  30,000  marks, 
and  he  completely  suppressed  the  civil  war  in  Scotland  in  1647. 
When  Cromwell  invaded  Scotland,  1650,  Leslie  had  the  chief  com- 
mand of  the  Scottish  army,  in  which  capacity  he  sustained  a  signal 
defeat.   The  history  of  this  catastrophe  (battle  of  Dunbar)  is  well- 
known.    Suffice  it  to  say,  that  no  blame  can  be  imputed  to  the  Ge- 
neral.   Like  Fabius  Maximus,  he  was  maintaining  a  commanding 
situation,  which  put  Cromwell's  army  almost  entirely  in  his  power; 
but  he  allowed  himself  to  be  importuned  out  of  his  fastness,  and 
precipitated  into  a  battle  by  the  inconsiderate  zeal  of  the  Committee 
of  Church  and  State,  and  the  consequence  was,  his  disastrous 
overthrow,  3d  September  1650.    Justice  was  done  to  the  abilities 
of  the  unfortunate  general,  who  was  acquitted  of  misconduct,  and 
restored  to  the  command  from  which  he  had  been  suspended  for 
a  time. 

There  is  to  be  found  in  Douglas's  peerage  a  high  testimony  to 
Leslie's  character,  under  the  hand  of  Charles  IL  whom  some  of 
the  General's  enemies  had  endeavoured  to  prejudice  against  him, 

10th  June  1667.  . 

Chief  Land-owners.— The  chief  land-owners  of  the  parish  are. 
Sir  Ralph  Abercromby  Anstruther,  Bart.,  of  Balcaskie,  and 
Sir  Wyndham  Carmichael  Anstruther,  Bart.,  of  Anstruther  and 
Carmichael.  Neither  of  them  have  their  residence  in  the  parish, 
—  Sir  Ralph's  mansion  being  situated  in  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Carnbee,  and  Sir  Wyndham's  in  that  of  Elie.  There  is  not  much 
difference  in  their  respective  valuations.  Sir  Ralph's  being  L.1486 
Scots,  and  Sir  Wyndham's  L.1207,  13s.  4d.  Scots.  Their  actual 
rent  roll  I  have  not  ascertained,  but  should  suppose  it  to  amount 
to  about  L.  2200  a-year. 

Mr  Mackie  has  a  feu  of  three  kcres  holding  of  Sir  Wyndham. 
He  pays  of  stipend  2  quarters,  1  bushel,  2  pecks  of  barley.  Mr 
Elder  has  a  feu  of  about  7  acres,  holding  of  Sir  Ralph,  but  pays 

no  stipend.  ti   i     i  f 

There  is  only  one  other  landholder  in  the  parish.  He  has  but 
a  few  acres,  and  there  would  appear  to  be  no  stipend  exigible. 


ABERCROMBIE. 


343 


Registers. — The  earliest  entry  in  bur  parochial  registers  is  16th 
April  1597.  It  is  very  brief,  and  not  very  legible.  It  appears  to  re- 
cord the  settling  of  an  account.  Matters  of  discipline  are  often  be- 
fore the  session,  and  the  discipline  extends  to  all  manner  of  delin- 
quencies. The  first  volume,  commencing  as  just  stated,  ends  in 
1638;  the  second  begins  1641,  and  ends  1660;  the  third  begins 
1664,  and  goes  on  to  1681.  There  is  then  a  blank  till  2d  No- 
vember 1689,  when  volume  fourth  begins  with  the  ordination  of 
Mr  Walter  Wilson.  From  that  time  to  the  present  day,  the  mi- 
nutes of  session  have  been  kept  regularly,  and  the  cash-book  carried 
on  along  with  them  occasionally.  This  has  been  the  case,  indeed, 
from  August  1689,  to  August  27th  1789.  From  that  date  the 
minutes  have  been  kept  distinct  from  cash  concerns,  there  being  a 
current  book  for  each.  The  first  trace  that  I  can  perceive  of  a 
marriage  register  is  in  1684.  There  are  only  three  entries  of  births 
and  baptisms  before  1707.  From  that  period  there  is  a  more 
regular  register  of  marriages  and  baptisms,  and  also  of  burials. 
There  is  an  heritors'  book  besides  those  strictly  sessional,  and  all  of 
them  during  the  late  and  present  incumbency  of  session-clerk  have 
been  kept  with  commendable  accuracy. 

Antiquities. — Our  most  noted  antiquity  is  the  church,  which 
will  be  afterwards  adverted  to.  As  to  other  antiquities,  our  report 
must  be  almost  wholly  negative.  The  old  ruinous  mansion-house 
of  Newark  is  an  interesting  object,  but  there  is  nothing  peculiar  in 
its  structure. 

The  situation  is  striking  :  Standing  directly  south''and  north,  its 
southern  gable  has  closely  opposed  to  it  a  precipitous  rock,  which 
rises  high  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  so  that  there  is  no  passing 
betwixt  the  wall  and  the  precipice.  The  northern  half  has  a  roof 
in  tolerable  repair.  The  ground  storey  is  occupied  by  dark  vaults. 
The  middle  and  upper  storeys  afford  comfortable  dwelling-houses 
to  the  servants  upon  the  farm  of  Newark.  They  did  so  at  least 
till  of  late.  In  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  parish,  nearly  a  mile 
and  a-half  from  the  house  of  Newark,  there  is  still  to  be  seen  the 
old  and  ruined  parish  church  of  Abercrombie,  abandoned  as  a 
place  of  worship  for  190  years.  It  stands  in  a  sequestered  and 
romantic  situation,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  original  burying- 
ground,  and  close  upon  Sir  Ralph  Anstruther's  enclosures  and  plan- 
tations. It  is  the  burying-place  of  the  family  of  Balcaskie,  and  of 
the  minister  of  Abercrombie  and  family.    A  few  families  of  the 


FIFESniRE. 


adjacent  tenantry  still  use  the  burying-ground,  Abercrombie  being 
the  oldest  remembered  site  of  their  ancestors. 

III. — Population. 

Population  in  1775,  by  return  to  Dr  Webster,  780 
in  1790.  -  -  832 

in  1821,  -  -  912 

in  1831,  -  -  1110 

The  increase  within  the  last  ten  years  is  partly  to  be  accounted 
for  by  the  working  of  the  coal  ;  since  the  coal  ceased  to  be 
wrought,  there  has  been  a  marked  diminution  of  the  population. 

There  are  about  130  of  the  population  in  the  country,  and  884 
in  St  Monan's. 

Births. — The  average  of  births  cannot  be  given  with  so  much 
certainty,  as  were  desirable,— from  the  neglect  of  many  parents  in 
giving  in  their  children's  names  for  registration.  But  the  whole 
number  from  1828  till  1833  inclusive,  is  59,  which  gives  an  ave- 
rage of  9f  for  each  year. 

The  average  of  deaths  in  six  years,  appears  from  a  register 
which  was  for  some  time  kept  by  the  minister,  to  be  19i. 

Families.— T\\e  number  of  families  in  the  parish  by  the  minis- 
ter's last  visiting  hst  is  248. 

I  do  not  know  more  than  one  bachelor  above  fifty  years  old  m 
the  parish,  but  there  are  at  least  12  widowers  of  that  age,  and 
there  are  19  unmarried  females  above  forty-five. 

In  1828,  there  died  in  the  parish,  in  his  ninety-second  year,  in 
full  vigour  both  of  body  and  mind,  a  respectable  farmer,  whose  an- 
cestors and  himself  had  occupied  the  same  farm  on  the  Aber- 
crombie estate,  for  nearly  300  years.  His  name  was  John  Cow- 
per,  and  his  son  (Robert)  still  keeps  possession.* 

There  are  two  male  parishioners  of  ours,  at  present  boarded  m 
the  Dundee  Lunatic  Asylum.  The  "board  of  one  of  these  unfor- 
tunate persons  is  defrayed  out  of  his  own  funds,  that  of  the  other 
by  the  kirk-session  and  heritors.  We  have  three  fatuous  persons 
at  home,  not  strictly  under  coercion,  and  all  of  them  maintained 
by  their  respective  families  without  parochial  assistance.  These 
last  mentioned  were  born  without  apparent  defect  either  of  body 
or  mind.  Their  present  unhappy  state  is  to  be  ascribed  to  very 
severe  sickness  in  early  life. 

•  There  is  every  reason  to  believe,  that  it  is  of  this  stationary  family,  that  the  ad- 
mirable William  Cowper  of  Olney  thus  writes  to  one  of  his  friends,  (Mrs  Courtenay.J 
"  While  Pitcairne  whistles  for  his  family  estate  in  Fifeshire,  he  will  do  welMt  lie 
will  sound  a  few  notes  for  me..  I  am  originally  of  the  same  shire,  and  a  family  or 
my  name  is  still  there."— »,r  Ditmkr.  Courier,  Janumy  11,  1822. 


ABERCROMHIE. 


345 


There  are  no  blind,  deaf,  or  dumb  in  the  parish. 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People. — The  people  on  the  whole 
are  most  industrious,  and  enjoy  in  a  reasonable  degree  the  comforts 
of  society.  In  most  of  the  fishermen's  families,  there  is  at  times  a 
striking  air  of  comfort.  For  the  wet,  hungry,  and  weary  fisher- 
man (at  sea  since  two  or  three  o'clock  in  the  morning)  there  is 
a  blazing  fire,  and  a  clean  substantial  breakfast  set  out,  to  which 
he  sits  down  with  much  relish  and  enjoyment.  The  ordinary  food 
of  the  peasantry  at  their  meals  is  oatmeal,  potatoes,  fish,  and  in 
most  families,  in  the  country  part  of  the  parish,  a  little  pork  of 
their  own  rearing-. 

During  the  last  three  years  there  have  been  4  illegitimate  births 
in  the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 

In  tillage,  .  1015 

plantation,  .  57 
common,  .  12 

 1084 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  grain  raised  in  the  pa- 
rish, as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is,  say 

Wheat,  barley,  oats,  beans,  L.  2700 

Potatoes  and  turnips,           .  J7oO 

Hay  cultivated,       .       .  .  600 

Pasture,               .              .  330 

L. 5380 

Rent. — The  rent  of  land  varies  from  L.  1,  14s.  to  L.  3,  4s.  per 
imperial  acre.  The  greater  part  of  the  rent  is  paid  in  grain,  and  con- 
sequently fluctuates  according  to  the  county  fiars.  The  average 
rent  of  the  parish  under  cultivation  may  be  taken  at  L.  2,  5s.  per 
acre.  A  lease  of  twenty-one  years  has  just  expired  ;  the  rent  was 
one-half  boll  wheat,  do.  barley,  do.  oats,  and  L.  1,  Is.  The  same 
farm  is  now  let  at  an  equal  amount  of  grain,  and  L.  1,  3s.  per  acre. 
For  pasturing  a  full-grown  ox  or  cow  during  the  season,  L.  3. 

Husbandry. — The  usual  rotation  upon  easy  land  is  grass  broken 
up  for  oats;  oats  followed  by  potatoes  or  turnips.  If  potatoes,  wheat 
succeeds,  the  wheat  laid  down  with  grass.  This  is  used  for  one 
year  for  cutting  grass  or  hay,  and  pastured  perhaps  for  a  year,  and 
again  broken  up  for  oats.  Such  is  the  outhne  of  our  husbandry. 
As  the  soil  is  lighter  or  stronger,  there  occur  of  course  varieties  of 
culture.  Upon  the  whole,  it  coincides  entirely  with  the  agriculture 
of  the  surrounding  district. 

For  potatoe  ground  to  the  people  of  St  Monan's  the  farmer  re- 
ceives 2s.  for  the  row  of  100  yards,  provided  the  people  aff'ord  the 


34G 


FIFESHIRE. 


manure.  If  he  afford  ground,  labour,  and  manure,  he  draws  4s.  per 
100  yards.  The  best  manure,  that  which  fishing  towns  afford,  is 
estimated  at  5s.  a  load. 

The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years. 

Farm-Buildi7igs. — The  farm-buildings  are  in  general  commo- 
dious and  in  good  repair.  There  are  some  of  the  recently  erecl> 
ed  steadings  uncommonly  extensive,  convenient,  and  substantial. 
The  inclosures  being  in  general  hedge  and  ditch,  there  are  few 
of  them  sufficient  fences,  otherwise  there  would  be  a  greater  pro- 
portion of  the  land  occasionally  in  pasture. 

With  the  exception  of  the  undivided  common  above-mentioned, 
there  are  no  waste  grounds  to  reclaim.  Draining  has  been  and  is 
still  successfully  carried  on. 

IVages. — A  good  labourer  receives  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  6d.  per  day. 
Lifting  potatoes  Is.  a-day  and  dinner.  Harvest  wages  Is.  6d.  a-day 
from  breakfast.  The  whole  harvest  for  men,  L.  2  with  bounties, 
viz.  potatoe  and  lint  ground,  with  supper  meal.  The  whole  harvest  for 
women,  L.  1,  13s.  with  bounties  as  above.  Mechanics,  such  as  ma- 
sons, Wrights,  &c.  have  never  under  2s.  a  day,  and  2s.  6d.  in  sum- 
mer. The  common  rate  of  wages  for  farm-servants  is  about  L.  10, 
with  a  house,  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  3  chopins  of  milk,  with  potatoe- 
ground.  Female  servants  receive  L.  3  in  the  half  year,  exclusive 
of  tea-money. 

Quarries. — We  have  a  quarry  of  excellent  freestone,  but  with 
too  much  superincumbent  earth  to  pay  the  working  of  it. 

Fishery. — This  is  one  of  the  principal  fishing  stations  on  the 
east  coast  of  Scotland,  and,  including  men,  women  and  children, 
it  may  afford  their  chief  occupation  to  about  300  individuals.  The 
children,  before  they  are  able  for  harder  work,  go  in  great  numbers, 
and  to  a  distance  of  some  miles,  to  gather  bait.  The  women  bait  the 
lines.  The  men,  including  boys  from  fourteen  to  eighteen,  go  a-fish- 
ing.  The  herring-fishery  is  the  great  concern  with  our  people.  There 
is  a  partial  herring-fishery,  comparatively  near  to  our  own  shores,  in 
the  winter  and  spring  months.  But  it  is  the  Caithness  or  north  coun- 
try fishing  which  forms  the  great  object  of  attention  to  our  people. 
From  the  latter  part  of  June,  and  to  the  middle  of  July,  they  are 
in  a  bustle  of  preparation.  The  number  of  the  boats  fitted  out 
is  twenty-six,  at  fifteen  tons  each.  The  complement  of  men  for 
each  boat  is  five,  in  all  130  for  twenty-six  boats.  St  Monan's 
does  not  furnish  that  number.  There  may  be  two  men  to  each 
boat,  strangers,  finding  employment  in  our  boats.    These  are  cal- 


ABERCROMBIE. 


347 


led  half-deal  men,  from  the  limited  proportion  they  receive  of  the 
profits,  which  is  reasonably  so  limited,  because,  while  they  furnish 
their  own  nets,  they  have  no  property  in  the  boats.  The  follow- 
ing may  be  taken  as  a  tolerably  accurate  statement  of  the  cost  of 
fitting  out  one  of  our  principal  boats  for  sea.  Boat  with  all  her 
tackling  and  appurtenances,  L.  85 ;  20  nets  at  L.  4  each,  L.  80 ; 
provisions,  L.  30.  Every  net  is  about  50  yards  long,  and  fifteen 
score  meshes  wide,  32  meshes  in  the  yard,  the  mesh  1  j  of  an  inch. 
The  engagement  which  our  people  enter  into  with  the  fish-dealers 
is  for  six  weeks  ;  but  the  bargain  is  understood  to  have  been  im- 
plemented by  the  fishers  of  any  one  boat  when  they  have  caught 
250  barrels,  in  howsoever  short  a  time. 

Cod-fishing  for  export  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  here. 
The  packing  furnishes  employment  and  maintenance  to  many  fe- 
males. This  fishing,  however,  is  of  very  limited  duration.  When 
the  herring  disappear  in  the  end  of  winter,  it  ceases  of  course,  as 
it  is  with  herring-bait  that  the  cod  are  taken. 

The  cod,  when  cured,  are  sent  to  the  London  and  Liverpool 
markets.  Haddocks,  turbot,  cod,  &c.  are,  in  their  several  seasons, 
sent  in  great  quantities  to  the  Edinburgh  market,  and  also  supply 
our  own  adjacent  country  by  means  of  cadgers  and  fish-women. 

Besides  26  boats  of  about  15  tons,  there  are  perhaps  14  yawls 
of  7^  tons. 

Manufactures. — We  have  only  four  weavers  in  the  parish,  and 
these  have  sometimes  other  occupations. 

The  working  of  nets  is  a  very  general  occupation  among  the 
young.  They  will  make  at  the  rate  of  9d  a  day.  Kelp  has  long 
ago  ceased  to  be  a  profitable  concern,  nor  has  there  been  any  made 
these  many  years.  We  have  in  St  Monan's  a  very  extensive  malt- 
ing and  brewing  concern. 

Navigation. — There  are  two  trading  vessels  belonging  to  the 
port ;  a  schooner  seventy-eight  tons  old  register ;  a  sloop  be- 
longing to  the  same  owners,  forty  tons  old  register.  These  vessels 
are  chiefly  employed  in  the  coasting-trade.  It  is  very  seldom  that 
we  are  visited  by  foreign  vessels. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

St  Monan's  can  hardly  be  called  a  market-town,  in  the  proper 
sense  of  the  word.  It  is  a  burgh  of  barony  holding  of  Newark. 
It  has  three  bailies,  a  treasurer,  and  fifteen  councillors.  The  feu- 
ars  choose  the  baihes,  and  the  bailies  the  councillors.  There  are 
twelve  constables  annually  chosen. 


348 


l-'IFESHIRH. 


Market-Town. — The  nearest  market-town  is  Pittenweem,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  distant;  it  is  also  the  nearest  post-town. 

Village. — The  only  vestige  of  a  village  in  the  parish,  exclusive 
of  St  Monan's,  is  Abercrombie.  It  contains  the  manse  and  offi- 
ces, two  farm-houses  with  their  extensive  offices,  a  wright  and  a 
smith's  respective  shops,  with  the  dwelling-houses  of  these  trades- 
men, two  houses  for  married  farm-servants,  (others  being  lodged 
in  a  bothie)  and  two  houses  besides,  occupied  by  persons  connect- 
ed with  the  place. 

There  is  no  post-office  in  the  parish,  but  the  London  and  Edin- 
burgh mail  arrives  at  Pittenweem  every  morning  about  half-past 
six,  and  leaves  the  same  place  at  seven  in  the  evening.  There 
are  nearly  two  miles  of  excellent  turnpike  road  along  the  north- 
east boundary  of  the  parish,  and  about  the  same  extent  along  the 
shore  from  east  to  west. 

Means  of  Communication. — The  Balcarres  coach  starts  from  An- 
struther  for  Pettycur  at  eight  in  the  morning,  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday,  throughout  the  year ;  and  from  2,  Princes  Street, 
at  ten  a.  m.  for  Anstruther,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Sa- 
turday. There  is  a  daily  coach  for  a  great  part  of  the  year  from 
Anstruther  to  Largo,  where  there  arrives  twice  a-day  a  steamer 
from  Newhaven.  There  are  many  steamers  coasting  along,  every 
lawful  day  in  summer,  and  affording  great  facilities  for  intercourse 
■with  the  metropolis. 

A  carrier  from  Crail  to  Edinburgh  passes  and  repasses  every 
week,  and  generally  one  from  Pittenweem  to  Cupar,  the  county 
town. 

Bridge. — In  Sir  Ralph  Anstruther's  pleasure  grounds,  there  isavery 
handsome  stone-bridge  over  the  stream  which  separates  the  parish 
of  Abercrombie  from  that  of  Carnbee.  The  plan  was  given  by  Mr 
Burn,  and  does  credit  to  the  taste  of  that  distinguished  architect. 

Harbours. — There  is  a  tolerable  harbour  at  St  Monan's. 
It  is  formed  by  the  natural  opening  before  adverted  to  (page  339,) 
and  by  a  strong  pier  running  nearly  in  a  direct  line  from  the  shore, 
then  gradually  bending  towards  the  west,  in  the  form  of  a  quay, 
of  considerable  elevation. — What  chiefly  merits  observation  is  the 
great  depth  of  water.  At  ^tream-tides,  when  full  water,  it  is  from 
18  to  20  feet  deep  at  the  entrance,  and  in  ordinary  floods,  from  13 
to  15.  Though  by  this  depth  it  is  capable  of  admitting  vessels  of 
Inu'den,  none  such  frequent  it,  except  in  the  summer  months,  and 
then  but  very  seldom,  and  when  "  freighted  to  the  place,  for  the 


ABERCROMBIE. 


349 


entrance  (says  my  predecessor)  is  narrow,  between  two  ridges  of 
rocks,  the  bottom  rough,  and  thereby  difficult  and  dangerous. 

Our  chief  imports  are  coal  and  Hme ;  and  exports,  potatoes,  cured 
cod,  and  herrings. 

Ecclesiastical  State. —  The  parish  church  is  conveniently  situated 
for  the  great  bulk  of  the  population,  viz.  the  inhabitants  of  St 
Monan's,  but  very  much  the  reverse  for  the  minister  and  his  fami- 
ly. The  original  parish  church,  abandoned  to  ruin  these  190 
years,  was  about  five  minutes  walk  from  the  manse.  But  when  the 
chapel  in  the  barony  of  St  Monan's  came  to  be  used  as  the  pa- 
rish church,  the  manse  and  offices  remained  where  they  had  ever 
been,  and  hence  their  inconvenient  distance  of  a  full  mile  from  the 
place  of  worship,  since  1646.  The  manse  was  rebuilt  from  the 
foundation,  1795-6,  and  in  1818-19,  an  addition  made  to  it,  and 
a  complete  set  of  offices  erected.  Upon  either  of  these  occasions,  it 
might  have  seemed  obvious  to  remove  the  manse  and  offices  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  church.  But  in  1796,  the  aged  incumbent,  attach- 
ed to  the  localities  of  Abercrombie,  does  not  appear  to  have 
wished  for  a  change,  and  when  the  enlargement  of  the  manse  and 
new  offices  were  thought  necessary,  in  1819,  there  were,  from  the 
minority  of  the  two  great  heritors,  legal  difficulties  in  the  way  of  a 
change  of  site,  which  prevented  the  removal,  however  desirable, 
from  being  carried  into  effect.  Partly  surrounding  the  manse,  en- 
larged as  above,  there  is  an  excellent  garden,  most  substantially 
inclosed,  and  a  good  set  of  offices.  The  glebe,  which  is  two-thirds 
substantially  enclosed  with  hedge  and  ditch,  consists,  inclusive  of 
the  site  of  the  manse  and  offices,  of  9  acres,  3  roods,  and  31  falls, 
Scotch  measure.    The  stipend  is  as  follows  : — 

Qrs.    B.    p.  G. 
Barley,  32      3      1  1 

Oats,  4      5      1^  0 

Of  money  I  am  paid   from  Balcaskie  estate,  in  lieu  of  vicai-age 
tithes,  .  .  .        .  .  .  .  L.  2  18  0 

And  from  Elie  estate,  .  .  .  .  ,  112  2 

L. 14    0  2 

From  which  deduct  what  I  pay  of  public  burdens,  as  drawing  the  whole 

teind  of  Newark,  .  ,  .  .  ,  .  15  8^ 

•L.  12  !4  5i 

Government  Bounty,  .  .  .  .  .  32  19  4 

Total  money,  .  L.  45  13 

There  was  no  communion  element  money  in  my  predecessor's  time. 
The  want  of  this  was  considered,  and  allowed  for  in  my  Govern- 


350 


FIFRSHIRE. 


ment  Bounty.  The  glebe  now  exceeds  the  measurement  given  by 
my  predecessor,  1  acre,  3  roods,  and  29  falls.  This  is  owing  to 
an  excambion,  in  which  the  minister  got  quantity  for  quality.  The 
glebe  is  now  much  more  convenient  for  the  minister  than  former- 
ly.   He  draws  a  rent  for  the  grass  in  the  church-yard. 

To  return  to  the  church  itself,  after  this  view  of  the  temporali- 
ties of  the  benefice,  it  is  said,  I  believe  on  good  traditional  autho- 
rity, to  have  been  built  about  the  fortieth  year  of  David  IL's  reign. 
(1369.)  His  father  Robert  1.  had  died  1329.  Tradition  says, 
that  David  and  his  Queen,  narrowly  escaping  shipwreck  on  the 
"  stormy  frith,"  had  found  a  landing  on  the  shore,  hard  by  St 
Monan's,  and  that,  as  an  expression  of  gratitude  for  their  delive- 
rance, they  had  caused  to  be  erected  a  chapel  to  St  Monan,  the  tute- 
lary saint  of  the  place.  By  David's  charter,  dated  Edinburgh,  he 
grants  to  this  chapel  the  lands  of  Easter  Birney  in  Fife,  and  some 
lands  in  the  sheriffdom  of  Edinburgh.  James  HI.  gave  it  to  the 
Black-friars.  It  had  afterwards  a  convent  at  Cupar  annexed  to  it, 
and  both  it  and  the  convent  were  annexed  by  James  V.  to  a  con- 
vent at  St  Andrews. 

The  condition  which  this  well  known  fabric  exhibited  ten  years 
ago  had  been  its  condition  for  ages. 

Situated  at  the  west  end  of  St  Monan's,  and  separated  from  it 
by  a  small  brook,  and  within  fifty  yards  of  what  is  shown  as  St 
Monan's  Cell,  it  exhibited  a  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, in  the  form  of  a  cross,  with  a  steeple  of  hewn  stone 
in  the  centre,  square  so  far,  and  terminating  in  aspire  of  eight  sides. 
There  remained  no  vestige  of  building  from  the  steeple  westward ; 
but  to  the  north  and  the  south  of  it,  were  to  be  seen  the  unroofed 
remains  of  a  transept,  or  wings,  at  right  angles  to  the  body  of  the 
fabric.  The  main  part  of  the  building,  extending  eastward  from  the 
spire,  with  vaulted  roof,  as  well  described  by  my  predecessor,  and  in 
Sibbald,  was  used,  as  above-mentioned,  as  the  parish  church.  How- 
ever interesting  to  the  antiquarian,  it  was  most  uncomfortable 
as  a  place  of  worship ;  damp,  cold,  its  walls  covered  with  green 
mould,  and  presenting  altogether  an  aspect  of  chilling  desolation.' 
In  1772,  the  late  incumbent,  in  respect  of  its  uncomfortable  and 
ruinous  condition,  raised  a  process  for  repairs  before  the  Presby- 
tery, and  obtained  a  decreet  against  the  heritors  for  repairs,  ex- 
tensive and  substantial. 

The  heritors  conceived  that  this  was  not  an  expense  with  which 
they  ought  to  be  burdened,  forasmuch  as  the  feuars  of  St  Mo- 


ABERCROMUIE. 


351 


nan's,  by  their  charter  as  above  quoted,  were  bound  to  uphold 
the  fabric.  The  heritors  accordingly  had  recourse  upon  the 
feuars  —  the  latter  resisted,  and  the  matter  came  before  the 
Court  of  Session.  The  feuars  were  found  liable  to  uphold  the 
building  in  terms  of  their  charter.  They  did  therefore  apply  a 
repair,  but  very  partial,  and  by  no  means  amounting  to  what  had 
been  decerned  by  the  Presbytery,  "  and  nothing  more,"  says  my 
predecessor  in  1790,  "has  yet  been  done."  Down  to  1825,  it 
continued  the  uncomfortable  decaying  fabric  above  described. 

But  a  great  deal  has  now  been  done.  Early  in  February  1826, 
the  present  incumbent  brought  the  state  of  the  church  before  the 
Presbytery.  A  visitation  in  the  usual  form  took  place,  the  heri- 
tors being  competently  represented,  and  tradesmen  attending,  ac- 
cording to  citation.  Upon  thorough  inspection,  the  tradesmen  for- 
mally condemned  the  church.  The  heritors'  representatives  crav- 
ing delay,  the  Presbytery  did  not  immediately  decern.  Another 
nieeting  was  appointed,  against  which  the  heritors  engaged  to  have 
the  opinion  of  Mr  Burn,  architect.  This  gentleman  being  applied 
to,  visited  the  church,  and  with  strong  professional  enthusiasm,  de- 
precated the  idea  of  its  being  abandoned  to  ruin,  and  gave  his  de- 
cided opinion  as  to  its  capability  of  being  repaired  into  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  ecclesiastical  architecture,  and  a  place  of  worship  sin- 
gularly well  adapted  for  seeing  and  hearing.  This  report  coinciding 
with  the  previous  views  of  the  heritors,  and  approved  by  the  Pres- 
bytery, was  immediately  acted  upon  ;  and  after  all  the  tedious  forms 
connected  with  so  great  a  work,  we  were,  in  June  1828,  put  into 
occupation  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  of  worship  of  which 
the  country  can  boast.  There  was  a  lofty  communication  opened 
under  a  splendid  arch  betwixt  the  main  building  and  the  area  of 
the  steeple.  The  side-wings  to  the  north  and  south,  forming  the 
transept,  were  raised  to  the  height  of  the  principal  building,  and 
finished  in  the  same  style  with  the  original  roof.  The  pulpit  was 
removed  to  the  west  end,  immediately  in  front  of  a  magnificent  Go- 
thic window.  There  were  opened  four  similar  windows  in  the  south 
wall,  and  two  in  the  north,  and  we  were  provided  with  a  commodi- 
ous vestry  behind  the  church. 

The  heritors  abandoned  the  claim  they  had  upon  the  feuars  for 
upholdmg  the  fabric;  but  thought  it  reasonable  that,  as  an  in- 
demnification  for  the  great  sum  laid  out  by  them,  (not  less  than 
L.  1730,)  they  should  receive  a  moderate  seat  rent  from  the  feuars. 
This  arrangement  (consented  to  by  the  feuars)  still  subsists,  one 


352 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  the  most  reasonable  instances  that  can  be  conceived  of  seat 
rents  drawn  by  heritors.  It  appears  the  more  reasonable  in  the 
following  views ;  that  the  rents  have  been  twice  reduced  ;  that  they 
are  now  only  Is.  a  sitting;  and  tliat,  besides  the  original  sum  of 
L.  1730,  the  heritors,  upon  two  different  occasions,  1829-1836, 
■  have  come  forward,  and  at  an  expense,  1st,  of  L.  40,  and  2d,  of 
L.  17,  have  ordered  a  strengthening  of  the  roof  by  additional 
couples,  for  the  removal  of  apprehensions,  in  regard  to  the  safety 
of  the  building. 

This  unfortunate  state  of  matters,  in  regard  to  the  church, 
makes  it  somewhat  difficult  to  say,  who  are  or  are  not  members  of 
the  Established  Church.  We  are  in  a  transition  state.  Respect- 
able parishioners  are  still  absenting  themselves.  But  we  are 
not  aware  of  many  having  joined  Dissenting  congregations.  There 
is  no  Seceding  or  Dissenting  place  of  worship  in  the  parish ;  nor 
are  there  now,  we  should  think,  above  twenty-five  grown  up  per- 
sons in  the  bounds  who  acknowledge  any  dissenting  minister  as 
their  adopted  pastor.  The  church  is  seated  for  528 ;  deduct  free 
sittings  for  the  poor  36  ;  preserved  for  heritors,  their  families,  and 
their  servants,  farmers,  their  children  and  servants,  the  elders  and 
minister's,  and  schoolmaster's  seats,  200  ;  there  remain  for  letting, 
292 ;  an  ample  supply  for  the  parishioners,  and  considerably  ex- 
ceeding the  number  of  applicants. 

The  number  of  persons  of  all  ages  attending  the  Established 
Church,  we  cannot,  in  present  circumstances,  state  with  accuracy. 
But,  without  reference  to  our  late  alarms,  we  might  say,  towards 
300.  There  should  be  many  more,  and  we  lament  that  there  are 
not.  Clerical  means  are  used  to  augment  the  attendance,  but  we 
are  apt  to  have  offered  as  excuses,  the  difficulty  of  hearing,  the  want 
of  decent  clothing,  the  coldness  of  the  church,  especially  in  winter, 
—artiHcial  heat,  by  means  of  stoves  or  otherwise,  never  having 
been  introduced. 

The  average  number  of  communicants  may  be  given  at  210.  It 
is  low  compared  with  the  population.  Many  are  absent  at  sea, 
when  the  sacrament  is  dispensed  in  summer,  and  when  we  have  it 
in  February,  when  the  men  are  at  home,  it  falls  in  with  the  throng 
of  the  winter  herring-fishing. 

There  is  in  the  parish  an  Abercrombie  and  St  Monan's  Bible 
and  Missionary  Society  of  some  years  standing.  But,  from  want 
of  unanimity  among  the  members  as  to  the  disposal  of  the 'funds. 


AliERCROMBIE. 


353 


it  has  greatly  declined  from  its  original  efficiency,  and  seems  verg- 
ing to  total  extinction. 

Education. —  We  have  one  parochial  school.  The  average  num- 
ber attending  was  given  in  at  last  examination  at  51  boys  and  35 
girls  =  86.    The  schoolmaster  has  the  legal  accommodations,  and 
the  maximum  salary.  His  fees  are,  reading  per  quarter,  2s. ;  writing 
2s.  6d.  arithmetic,  3s. ;  Latin,  5s.  ,•  no  additional  charge  has  hither- 
to been  made  for  English  grammar  or  geography.    The  fees  may 
amount  to  L.  25,  or  L.  30  a  year.    The  parochial  schoolmaster, 
altogether  propria  motu,  carries  on  efficiently  and  acceptably  a 
Sabbath  evening  school.    There  is  another  school  in  St  Monan's 
upon  the  teacher's  own  adventure.     I  do  not  understand  his 
fees  or  the  branches  taught  to  be  different  from  those  of  the 
parochial  school.    He  is  of  the  Established  Church,  his  num- 
bers 67.     There  has  been  recently  established  in  the  parish 
by  Lady  Anstruther  of  Balcaskie,  an  infant  school,  which  is  also 
supported  by  her  ladyship,  and  promises  to  be  of  great  benefit 
to  the  place.    None  of  the  children  at  other  schools  in  the  pa- 
rish, cost  less  than  2s  per  quarter,  none  more  than  5s.    There  is 
no  quarter  of  the  parish  so  distant  from  school,  as  to  be  a  bar  to 
attendance.     There  are  no  additional  schools  required.    But  a 
sewing  scAooZ  might  possibly  be  of  advantage.   From  the  irregular 
attendance  of  children  at  school  the  people  here  might  be  thought 
less  alive  to  the  benefits  of  educatioh  than  they  really  are.  But 
they  are  so  dependent  upon  the  services  of  the  children  in  some  of 
the  fishing  departments,  that  they  are  constrained  to  keep  them 
from  school  when  they  would  be  glad  that  they  could  attend  it. 
Many^parents,  however,  are  culpably  remiss  in  enforcing  atten- 
dance. 

Friendly  Societies.— friendly  societies  we  have  the  following: 
The  Sea-box  Society,  supposed  to  have  been  instituted  about  the 
time  of  the  union  of  the  Crowns.  Its  articles  are  fair  and  judicious, 
but  too  numerous  and  complicated  for  insertion,  and  it  were  diffil 
cult  to  make  a  selection.  There  is  one  important  improvement 
which  the  society  have  recently  sanctioned.  While  they  pronounce 
It  necessary,  that  sea-faring  people  shall  always  constitute  a  clear 
majority  of  the  members  of  the  society;  and  while  they  find  coun- 
tenance in  this  from  the  practice  of  the  generality  of  friendly  so- 
cieties, they  resolve,  "that,  with  the  preference  specified,  persons,  of 
whatever  occupation,  shall  be  alike  eligible  as  to  admission,  and 
equally  so,  with  regard  to  the  benefits,  as  well  as  the  offices  and 


354 


FIFERHIUE. 


honours  of  the  Sea- Box  Society,  conforming  to  their  regulations," 
&c.  The  society's  funds  are  represented  as  in  a  flourishing  state, 
and  answering  the  end  of  the  institution. 

There  is  also  distinct  from  this,  the  Brotherly  Society,'  insti- 
tuted July  1821. 

Savi7i(/s  Bank.— There  are  two  savings  banks,  one  of  a  good 
many  years  standing ;  the  other  instituted  December  1835.  With 
reo-ard  to  it,  I  have  been  informed  that  its  deposits  (in  the  National 
Bank,  Anstruther,)  amount  to  about  L.  2per  week.  There  is  also 
a  female  savings  bank,  reported  to  be  doing  well.  The  invest- 
ments in  these  banks  are  by  the  fishing  and  labouring  classes. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  heritors  and  session  have  a  re- 
gular meeting  every  half  year  about  the  middle  of  June  and  the 
middle  of  December,  when  they  audit  the  treasurer's  accounts,  ad- 
just the  poor's  roll  for  the  ensuing  half  year,  and  come  to  a  deci- 
sion upon  matters  of  parochial  business. 

Our  average,  taken  half  yearly,  from  1st  January  1835,  to  31st 
December  1836,  gives  us  of  pensioners  19,  at  3s.  2d.  nearly  per 
month. 

The  session's  yearly  income  from  all  sources,  from  1st  October 
1835,  to  30th  September  1836,  amounts  to  L.  39,  Is.  9id. ;  *  ses- 
sion's expenditure  for  the  said  year  L.  91,  5s.,  leaving  a  deficit, 
supplied  by  the  heritors  in  voluntary  assessment,  L.  52,  3s.  2id. 

Prisons.— There  are  two  prisons  in  St  Monan's,  under  one  roof, 
one  on  the  upper  floor  of  the  town-house,  the  other  on  the  ground 
floor.  They  are  equally  well  secured ;  the  lower,  by  much  the 
more  dismal  of  the  two.  Prisoners  are  committed  to  the  one  or  the 
other  according  to  their  pre-eminence  in  dehnquency.  The  ma- 
gistrates imprison  as  sudden  emergency  calls  for  it;  but  they  do 
not  impose  fines,  except  with  the- formalities  of  a  regularly  con- 
stituted court.  So  far  as  I  have  occasion  to  hear,  imprisonment 
is  a  rare  occurrence. 

Inns,  4-c.— As  this  place  is  no  thoroughfare,  there  can  hardly  be 

•  Sessional  means  of  meeting  expenditure.  S  18  II  J- 

Collections  at  church  door,  exclusive  of  those  at  the  sacrament,  ^-^^  ^ 

Eent  for  land  belonging  to  the  session,  .  •  •  2  12  0 

Rent  for  a  house,  .  .  •  •  •  "  2  16  0 

Interest  of  money,  .  •  *  ,   ,.     'n  ,.1     "  o„i. 

Collections  at  the  sacrament  twice  ill  the  year,  including  aU  the  preacu-     ^  ^ 

ing  days,  .  .  •  •  •  

L.38    4  5J 

Add  to  the  collections  -Id.  each  Sabbath  to  beadle,  .   ^_]L-.— 

L.39    1  9A 


ARERCROMUIE. 


355 


said  to  be  in  it  one  traveller's  inn,  where  there  is  regular  stabling 
or  posting.  But  there  are  too  many  ale-houses,  and  their  effect 
upon  the  morals  of  the  people  is  highly  unfavourable. 

Fuel. — Fuel  is  an  expensive  article  here.  Coal,  exclusive  of  toll, 
may  be  stated  at  Is.  Od.  the  load  of  22  stone ;  Is.  4d.  if  toll  be  in- 
cluded ;  a  cart  load  of  4|  stone  laid  down  at  Abercrombie,  with 
hire  and  toll  included;  would  stand  8s.  b^A.  It  is  a  coal  at  four 
miles  distance  that  is  referred  to, — Earlsferry.  Sir  Ralph  An- 
struther  has  lately  opened  a  coal  in  the  neighbourhood  at  Is.  a 
load  of  22  stone. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
There  is  one  variation  of  rather  an  unpleasant  kind  betwixt  the 
present  state  of  the  parish  and  people,  and  that  which  subsisted 
at  the  time  of  the  last  Statistical  Account.  They  are  certainly  less 
shy  than  formerly  in  applying  for  and  receiving  parochial  aid. 
My  predecessor  says,  "  There  are  now  upon  the  poor's  list  three 
persons  and  two  orphans."  At  present  there  are  nineteen.  There 
are  no  indications  of  such  an  increase  of  poverty  as  can  account  for 
this  difference.  The  truth  is,  that  the  spirit  of  independence, 
which  shrunk  from  being  troublesome  in  coming  upon  the  fund, 
is  now  greatly  broken  down.  It  is  natural  to  think  that  the  fine 
edge  of  delicacy  will  be  blunted  as  the  number  of  receivers  increase, 
to  keep  one  another  in  countenance.  Whatsoever  is  given,  how- 
ever, is  received  thankfully,  and  it  is  so  far  consoling  that  pauperism 
has  not  been  upon  the  increase  these  some  years.  It  is,  at  the  same 
time,  a  compensating  fact,  that  our  collections,  though  still  extremely 
moderate,  are  very  far  beyond  what  they  were  forty  years  ago. 
Within  these  last  twenty  years,  there  has  been  a  marked  improve- 
ment in  the  style  of  the  farm-houses  and  farm  offices  in  the  parish. 
It  seems  to  be  no  unwarranted  assertion,  that  the  people  are  im- 
proving in  general  intelligence,  and  in  their  acquaintance  with  the 
truths  of  religion.* 

January  1837. 

caskie.    1  he  following  is  the  actual  grain  stipend  : 

AK         u-  Q""-        P.  L.  Or.  B.  P. 

Abercrombie,       .      Barley,    32    3    1    1       Oats,    4    5  li 
Balcaskie,      .       .        .        28    7    3   0  28    7  3 


PARISH  OF  DUNTNO. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS  AND  SYNOD  OF  FIFE, 

THE  REV.  JAMES  ROGER,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name  and  Etymologij. — The  parish  ofDunino,  pronounced- by 
the  mhabitants  Dununie,  is  of  more  consideration  for  its  antiquity, 
neighbourhood,  and  recent  rapidity  of  improvenient,  than  for  its  ex- 
tent, or  value  as  a  section  of  its  county.  The  reporter  to  Sir  John  Sin- 
clair on  this  parish  first  assumes  that  its  name  is  Den-ino,  which 
it  is  not ;  and  then  proceeds  to  account  for  its  derivation  from 
words  signifying  "  a  village  on  a  large  and  deep  den."  But  there 
has  not  been,  time  out  of  mind,  any  thing  which  can  be  called  a 
village  in  the  parish :  and  the  "  den,  so  deep  and  large,"  is  no- 
thing more  than  the  beds  which  have  been  formed  by  two  little 
streams,  which  after  their  union  are  able  to  turn  a  saw-mill.  For 
fifty-four  years  after  the  commencement  of  the  parochial  register 
in  1643,  the  name  of  the  parish  is  uniformly  spelt  Duynyno,  Du- 
nynow,  or  Dunnonow,  the  first  syllable  always  being  Dun,  till  1697, 
when  it  was  first  corrupted  into  "  Dennino." 

The  highest  eminence  in  the  parish  is  1^  furlong  north  of  the 
church,  scarcely  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  on  which 
tradition  relates  there  was  a  nunnery ;  and  the  foundation  stones  of 
it  were  removed,  twenty-two  years  ago,  during  the  present  minister's 
incumbency.    There  is  as  much  evidence  that  the  parish  received 
its  name  from  the  nunnery,  as  can  generally  be  obtained  m  cases 
of  this  kind.    The  register  of  the  priory  of  St  Andrews,  append- 
ed to  the  second  volume  of  Mr  Pinkerton's  History,  and  drawn  up 
about  the  year  1250,  shows  that  the  ancient  names  of  places  in 
this  parish  and  neighbourhood  are  Gaelic.    Martine  of  Clermont, 
Secretary  to  Archbishop  Sharpe,  in  his  "  Remains  of  St  Andrews," 
written  in  1685,  calls  the  parish  of  Dunino,  "  the  Rectory  of 
Dunnenaucht,"  or  the  hill  of  young  women,  evidently  referring  to 
the  nunnery.    The  same  author  gives  a  copy  of  a  charter  granted 
by  the  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews,  so  far  back  as  October  4,  1479, 


I 


DUNINO.  357 

in  which  Dunino  is  called  «  Dynnenoch,"  precisely  of  the  same 
import. 

Sititotion  and  Extent. —  This  parish,  including  Kingsmuir,  ap- 
proaches to  a  square  form,  about  3  miles  long,  and  as  many  broad. 
The  church  is  4  miles  south-east  of  St  Andrews,  which  town  is  si- 
tuated North  Lat.  56°.  19'.  33".,  and  West  Long.  2°.  50'.  from  the 
Observatory  at  Greenwich.  Dunino  parish  is  bounded  by  St  An- 
drews and  Cameron  parishes  on  the  north  and  west;  by  those  of 
St  Leonards  and  Kingsbarns,  on  the  north-east  and  east ;  by  Crail 
parish,  on  the  east  and  south  ;  and  by  Carnbee,  on  the  south.  It 
lies  13  miles  east  of  Cupar,  the  county  town  ;  the  same  distance 
south-east  from  Dundee  ;  and  37  miles  north  of  Edinburgh.  The 
highway  from  St  Andrews  to  Anstruther,  an  extent  of  nine  miles, 
bisects  the  parish,  and  forms  the  eastern  angle  of  the  peninsula,  or 
provincially,  the  East  Nook  of  Fife. 

Climate.—The  effect  of  the  proximity  of  .Dunino  to  the  sea- 
coast,  added  to  the  recent  drainage  of  the  ground,  the  application  of 
calcareous  and  putrescent  manures,  the  inclosing  by  stone  fences  in 
every  part  but  Kingsmuir,  the  partial  shading  by  plantation,— and  the 
wmd  blowing  two-thirds  of  the  year  from  the  south-west,  and  only 
one-third  from  the  cold  north-east,— has  been  of  much  advantage 
not  only  to  the  soil,  but  to  the  inhabitants.    The  writer  of  the  for- 
mer Account  mentions  that,  from  thirty  to  forty  years  before  his 
time,  "  scorbutic  disorders"  prevailed  in  the  parish.    These  were 
obviously  caused  by  want  of  sufficient  lodging,  clothes,  and  food- 
The  writer  of  the  former  Account,  adds,  that,  in  his  time,  «  rheu- 
matism and  hysteric  complaints  were  the  chief  disorders."    An  in- 
stance of  rheumatism  may  no  doubt  here  still  occur  as  in  other 
places  ;  but  certainly  the  complaint  is  not  general.    Hysterical  af- 
fections are  here  unknown  :  and  intermittent  fevers  have  vanished. 
Though  the  chalybeate  fountains,  eulogized  in  the  former  Account, 
and  of  which  no  trace  remains,  were  still  available,  they  would  be 
held  useless,  from  the  general  health  of  the  present  inhabitants. 

^  Greo%y,  Mineralogy,  and  Hijdrograpluj.— The  parish  of  Du- 
mno  IS  situated  on  the  north-east  part  of  the  great  coal  basin  of 
bcot  and,  supposed  to  be  90  miles  long,  and  33  miles  broad.  It 
IS  believed  that  a  square  mile  of  this  space  will  answer  the  demand 
yearly.  Coal  began  first  to  be  used  in  Scotland,  near  Dunferm- 
line, in  Fifeshire,  about  1215.  On  every  estate  in  the  parish,  are 
vestiges  of  coal- working  at  some  former  period  ;  and  very  frequent- 
ly at  the  surface,  appears  bituminous  schistus  or  blaes,  denoting 


358  '  FIFESHIRE. 

the  presence  of  this  mineral.    No  coal  is  at  present  wrought  in 
the  parish,  from  a  belief  it  would  not  pay  the  expense ;  and  no- 
thing is  more  difficult  to  calculate  than  the  profits  of  coal-working. 
The  strata  unexpectedly  may  be  disturbed  by  mounds  of  stone,  or 
may  wholly  break  off  or  dip  beyond  reach.  Beside  the  upland  path  to 
the  church  from  Bridge -end,  there  is  a  projection  of  disintegrated 
trap,  provincially  ratcliel  or  rotten-stone  ;  across  which,  are  some 
narrow  vertical  veins  of  felspar.    Proceeding  up  Dunino  burn- 
side  southward,  a  few  projections  of  red  sandstone,  in  regular 
strata,  appear.    Farther  upward,  the  bed  of  the  burn  becomes 
limestone,  and  in  that  proximity  the  coping  of  the  ministers'  out- 
field glebe  under  the  surface  is  also  limestone.    Here  also,  a  stra- 
tum of  coal,  3  feet  thick,  has  been  discovered  32  feet  under  the 
surface,  dipping  considerably  towards  the  north.    The  regulation 
as  to  finding  coal  in  glebes  gives  httle  encouragement  to  the  incum- 
bent.   His  operations  may  be  suspended  by  the  presbytery  or  any 
heritor,  till,  after  paying  expenses,  he  deposit  his  profits  in  some 
bank  or  other  sure  place,  and  have  only  the  interest  of  his  deposit 
for  his  pains.   Some  mineralogists  assert  that  coal  under  limestone 
is  not  good,  but  under  sandstone  excellent.   Now  two-thirds  of  the 
rocks  in  this  parish  are  sandstone,  not  of  a  large  grit  called  con- 
glomerate, but  small,  and  often  very  white,  without  tinge  of  ferru- 
ginous mixture.    The  exports  from  the  sandstone  quarries  of 
Mylnefield,  four  miles  west  of  Dundee,  have  brought  to  the  pro- 
prietor large  sums  of  money.    The  sandstone  quarries  of  Dunino 
are  as  durable  in  the  material,  finer  in  the  texture,  and  better 
coloured  than  those  of  Mylnefield.    Were  these  Dunino  quarries 
placed  within  the  county  of  Middlesex,  near  the  great  southern 
metropolis,  their  value  would  be  incalculable.   Some  years  ago,  on 
the  farm  of  Tosh,  in  this  parish,  on  a  search  for  marl,  there  was 
discovered  a  considerable  quantity  of  steatites  or  soap-rock.  Had 
this  mass  of  steatites  been  preserved,  it  would  have  contributed  to 
form  a  manufactory  of  porcelain.  A  mile  east  from  the  junction  of 
the  three  rivulets  alluded  to  above,  as  passing  through  the  parish, 
and  on  the  south  bank  of  their  united  stream  called  the  Kenly 
Burn,  is  a  cavity  containing  excellent  specimens  of  stalactites,  or 
dropstone.    Along  the  shore  of  the  German  Ocean,  to  which  the 
Kenly  surrenders  its  waters,  is  a  mass  of  marble  rock,  that  would 
suffice  to  build  three  of  the  largest  cities  in  the  empire.  There 
may  be  seen  "  cochlece  marincB,"  and  other  shells  imbedded  in  the 
limestone  rock.    A  small  part  of  those  marble  rocks  have  been 


DUNINO. 


359 


burned  into  lime,  to  manure  the  adjacent  fields.  When  the  mar- 
ble is  polished,  it  presents  a  beautifully  striated  appearance  of  yel- 
low and  white,  and  might  be  made  a  lucrative  article  of  com- 
merce. Except  on  the  clay  soils  of  Stravithy  Mains  and  Kings- 
muir,  where  an  ochreous  mixture  is  sometimes  found,  the  water  in 
the  rest  of  the  parish  passing  through  a  sandy  soil  is  excellent. 
Our  fountains  in  summer  are  not  only  cool,  but,  in  their  ordinary 
state,  may  be  compared  with  those  of  the  most  celebrated  purity 
— containing  not  more  than  three  parts  in  a  thousand  of  saline 
particles  and  vegetable  matter.  Over  the  fields  of  Dunino  parish, 
may  sometimes  be  found  agates  and  chalcedonies,  and  fragments 
of  light  blue  whinstone  or  trap,  or  of  black  whinstone  or  basalt ; 
but  there  is  nothing  to  throw  light  on  any  of  the  two  fashionable 
theories  of  geology.  Ironstone  or  haematites  is  not  uncommon  in 
the  parish.  Recently,  a  person  collected  forty  tons  of  that  mine- 
ral from  the  side  of  the  rivulet  which  turns  Stravithy-mill,  and  sent 
it  cost  free  to  Newcastle  as  ballast. 

Zoology — We  have  all  the  usual  domestic  fowls  and  ordinary 
birds.  Of  the  two  species  of  Scottish  deer,  the  stag  and  the  roe, 
only  a  few  of  the  last  mentioned  peaceful  and  timid  kind  occa- 
sionally visit  the  parish  ;  and  so  do  a  few  pheasants  and  foxes. 
The  vast  colonies  of  rabbits  described  in  the  former  Statistical  Ac- 
count are  now  nearly  extirpated.  It  appears  from  an  old  charter, 
that,  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  moorfowl  abounded  in 
Kingsmuir,  but  they  have  been  expelled  by  the  progress  of  agri- 
cultural improvement.  An  attempt  was  made,  a  few  years  ago, 
to  rear  a  stock  of  goats  of  the  Angora  kind  in  this  parish. 
They  were  fed  with  clover  in  summer,  and  with  hay  and  tur- 
nips in  winter,  and  were  very  prolific,  the  female  generally 
having  three  kids  at  a  birth.  But  they  were  so  mischievous  in 
their  habits,  and  their  milk  in  so  little  request  in  a  healthy 
district  like  Dunino,  and  at  a  distance  from  a  great  town, 
that  in  five  years  they  were  disposed  of  as  unprofitable.  There 
is  abundance  of  pigeons  in  the  parish,  of  which  the  minister  has 
annexed  to  his  benefice  the  principal  dovecot.  Before  1617, 
any-'person  at  pleasure  might  erect  a  pigeon-house,  and  probably 
the  minister's  dovecot  was  constructed  prior  to  that  period.  Af- 
terwards, by  law,  it  was  incompetent  to  build  a  pigeon-house,  unless 
there  was  a  quahfication  in  the  builder,  of  ten  chalders  of  grain  in 
heritage  within  two  miles  of  the  dovecot,  or  unless  it  was  purchas- 
ed from  a  licensed  proprietor.    Had  it  not  been  for  the  penalty 


360 


FIFESllIRE. 


of  L.  11  Scotch,  or  18s.  4d.  Sterling,  for  the  first  offence  of  break- 
ing into  a  dovecot  or  shooting  a  pigeon,  and  double  that  sum  for 
every  subsequent  offence,  the  race  had  been  extinct.  Complaints 
have  been  made  against  the  acts  of  Parliament  supporting  dove- 
cots; but  it  is  with  the  complaints  against  pigeons  as  against 
crovys,  people  think  of  the  grain  devoured,  without  reckoning  on  the 
benefit  received.    Pigeons  pick  up  much  grain  that  would  be  lost, 
may  destroy  insects  in  the  soil,  and  certainly  feed  on  wild  mustard 
seed  that  deteriorates  the  crop.    Sixty-eight  pairs,  besides  keeping 
up  the  stock,  may  furnish  yearly  an  hundred  pairs  of  young  to  be 
disposed  of  at  5d.  or  6d.  a  pair ;  and  pigeon  dung  is  a  most  valuable 
manure.    It  is  sown  in  Persia  with  the  hand  over  the  corn-fields, 
to  great  advantage.    For  the  last  seven  years,  the  minister  of  the 
parish  has  manured  his  garden  with  it  not  sparingly,  but  as  co- 
piously as  with  the  usual  animal  or  vegetable  dung;  and  not  only 
what  is  sown  or  planted  prospers  generally,  but  duringthat  space,  no 
instance  has  occurred  of  ihe  insect  touching  the  gooseberries. 
Amidst  the  modern  improvements  of  conveying  speedy  intelligence 
by  telegraph,  by  steam  navigation  and  railroads,  it  is  singular  that 
the  plan  of  letter- carrying  by  pigeons  has  not  been  attempted  in 
Britain,  so  common  at  the  present  day  in  oriental  countries.    It  is 
well  known  that  a  pigeon  when  young  can  easily  be  domesticated. 
The  Turks  of  Aleppo,  in  Syria,  carry  on  a  correspondence  with 
the  city  of  Alexandria  in  Egypt,  with  our  common  domestic  pigeons 
of  bluish  plumage.    They  are  conveyed  in  cages  to  show  them 
the  route  ;  the  letter  is  rolled  up  under  their  wing,  and  in  an  hour, 
barring  accidents,  the  pigeon  courier  arrives  at  his  home  destina- 
tion, over  a  space  which  would  require  four  days  travel  to  a  human 
express. 

From  experiments  made  by  the  writer  of  these  pages,  he  has 
reason  to  believe,  that  hares  never  go  far  from  their  native  spot. 
The  same  observation  applies  to  blackbirds,  and  perhaps  to  game 
of  every  kind.  The  redbreast,  supposed  by  some  to  migrate  dur- 
ing the  warm  months,  lives  in  the  minister's  garden  all  the  sum- 
mer over. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
All  the  Scottish  historians  assert,  that,  on  the  land-side  of  St 
Andrews,  was  a  large  district,  called  "  Cursus  Apri,"  or  the  Boar's 
chace,  and  there  is  a  considerable  village,  three  miles  east  of  that 
town,  still  called  Boarhills.  One  of  the  old  names  of  St  Andrews, 
too,  was  Mucross,  the  promontory  of  the  Boars.    John  Major  re- 

.3 


DUNINO.  361 

lates,  that  the  boar's  chace  was  conferred  by  Alexander  the  Brave, 
about  the  year  1107,  on  some  religious  establishment  in  St  An- 
drews; and  Martine  of  Clermont  describes  this  space  as  what 
would  now  amount  to  from  eight  to  nine  English  miles  long,  and 
from  six  to  seven  miles  broad.  It  may  appear  strange  that  this 
forest  was  permitted  so  near  the  gates  of  a  city,  the  primacy  of 
the  kingdom.  Dr  Southey,  in  his  Travels  through  Spain,  men- 
tions a  "  Sierra  de  Busaco,"  a  desert  about  Busaco,  of  four  miles 
circuit,  to  preserve  the  solemnity  of  the  enclosed  religious  esta- 
blishment; and  Caesar,  in  his  sixth  book  of  the  wars  of  Gaul,  states, 
that,  m  Germany,  it  was  usual  to  have  a  wilderness  round  every 
city,  to  avoid  a  sudden  incursion  of  the  enemy.  Perhaps  reasons 
more  probable  than  either  of  the  above  might  be  assigned  why  this 
waste  was  allowed  to  remain  so  near  St  Andrews.  The  bishop  of 
that  diocese  could  cultivate  no  part  of  this  "  Cursus  Apri"  before 
he  had  a  grant  of  it  from  King  Alexander,  as,  prior  to  this,  it  might 
be  royal  hunting  ground ;  and  part  of  it  that  was  cultivated,  unde- 
niably, as  appears  from  the  chartulary  of  Aberbrothock,  paid  sti- 
pend to  the  Culdees  of  lona.  Beside  this,  at  the  time  of  the 
grant,  the  diocese  of  St  Andrews  not  only  included  many  of  the 
most  fertile  parts  of  Fife,  Angus,  and  Mearns,  East  and  West 
Lothian,  and  the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  but  twenty-seven  Scottish 
nobles  held  their  lands  as  its  vassals.  The  Bishop  of  St  Andrews, 
who  was  but  a  liferenter,  might  consider  the  agricultural  improve- 
ment of  the  "  Cursus  Apri"  as  a  matter  of  very  inferior  conse- 
quence. In  1244,  ohe  hundred  and  thirty-seven  years  after  the 
royal  grant,  some  agricultural  stir  had  arisen  in  the  "  Cursus  Apri," 
then  held  by  the  Archdeacon  of  St  Andrews  of  his  superior,  the 
Bishop.  This  waste  extended  farther  south  than  the  parish  of 
Dunino,  and  included  it;  and  the  register  of  the  priory  of  St  An- 
drews, among  other  places  in  this  vicinity  within  the  "Boar's  chace," 
mentions  the  following  now  belonging  to  this  parish,  namely,  "  In- 
dunnenochen,"  certainly  Dunynach  or  Dunino.—"  Balecately," 
novvBalcaithly;  "  Bale,"  now  Bely;  "  Pittendruch  and  Strath- 
latha,"  now  Pittendruch  and  Stravithy;  "  Kinaldin,"  now  Kinal- 
dy.    Pittairthy,  Kingsmuir,  and  Primrose,  are  of  far  later  origin. 

Dunino  had  become  a  parish  in  1458,  according  to  Maitland's 
History,  "  when  it  was  annexed  by  Bishop  Kennedy  to  support  a 
collegiate  church  in  St  Andrews."  It  must  have,  however,  been 
afterwards  disjoined  from,  the  college  church,  now  called  St  Leo- 
nards ;  yet  there  are  still  two  farms  belonging  to  that  parish,  and 


362 


FIFE8HIUK. 


unconnected  with  any  other  part  of  it,  on  the  north-east  border  of 
Dunino. 

The  parish  of  Dunino  was  once  much  more  extensive  than  at 
present.    It  contained  the  estate  of  Bonnyton  adjoining  on  the 
north,  and  which  lately  rented  at  L.  530  a-year ;  and  it  contained 
on  the  west,  the  farm  of  Brigton,  containing  222  acres  imperial, 
and  worth  now  L.  300  annually.     Of  late  years,  it  has  been  con- 
tended by  Mr  Hannah,  proprietor  of  Kingsmuir,  that  his  proper- 
ty, consisting  of  844  acres  Scotch,  does  not  lie  in  Dunino  parish, 
but  in  that  of  Crail.     This  theory  has  not  the  slightest  founda- 
tion.   Kingsmuir  had  originally  belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Fife,  but 
was  forfeited  to  the  Crown.    It  wa^  bestowed  by  James  V.  on 
a  gentleman,  for  assisting  to  carry  military  stores  to  France, 
about  the  year  1540;  and  in  1600,  there  is  an  infeftment  in  favour 
of  the  same  gentleman's  family.   Latterly,  Kingsmuir  became  part 
of  the  town's  revenue  of  Crail,  and  afterwards  was  purchased  by 
the  town's  revenue  of  Leith.    It  became  again  the  property  of  the 
Crown,  and,  posterior  to  the  Restoration,  was  gifted  by  Charles 
II.  to  a  follower  of  his  fortunes.  Colonel  Borthwick,  and  who,  in 
1683,  is  stated,  by  the  kirk-session  register,  as  also  proprietor  of  the 
estate  of  Dunino.    In  1710,  according  to  Sir  Robert  Sibbald,  it 
was  wholly  waste.    In  1727,  according  to  the  presbytery  record, 
it  contained  but  four  families,  the  pastoral  care  of  which  people 
was  then  annexed  by  the  presbytery  to  the  parish  of  Dunino.  This 
pastoral  charge  has  since  been  twice  repeated  by  the  presbytery, 
the  last  time  so  recently  as  the  year  1829.    The  poor  in  Kings- 
muir have  been  regularly  supported  by  the  parish  of  Dunino.  The 
father  and  uncle  of  the  present  proprietor  of  Kingsmuir,  in  eleven 
of  their  leases,  assert  that  Kingsmuir  lies  in  Dunino  parish  ;  and 
in  a  part  of  Kingsmuir  sold  by  them  to  the  then  proprietor  of  Bal- 
caithly,  it  is  declared  thrice  in  the  charter  of  conveyance,  that 
Kingsmuir  is  situated  in  Dunino  parish,  and  there  is  no  opposite 
evidence  whatever.    The  present  proprietor  of  Kingsmuir's  name 
is  inserted  in  the  baptismal  register  of  Dunino.    A  few  years  ago, 
the  heritors  of  Dunino  raised  an  action  before  the  Court  of  Ses- 
sion against  the  proprietor  of  Kingsmuir,  to  find  the  property, 
quoad  temporalia,  in  the  parish  of  Dunino,  and  both  the  Outer  and 
Inner  House  decerned  in  favour  of  the  heritors.    At  last,  weary 
of  the  contest,  both  panics  withdrew,  each  paying  his  own  ex- 
penses.   But  neither  the  United  College  of  St  Andrews,  who  are 
patrons  of  Dunino  parish,  nor  the  minister  of  Dunino,  had  any 


DUNINO.  363 

hand  in  the  withdrawal  ;  and  they  are  determined  to  retain 
Kingsnuiir  as  part  of  Dunino  parish,  which,  in  case  of  a  hew  aug- 
mentation, has  funds  to  benefit  the  church  Hving,  at  least  L.  60 
a-year. 

Parochial  Registers. — When  the  restoration  of  Presbyterian  go- 
vernment was  ratified  by  Parliament  in  1641,  parochial  registers 
were  recommended  to  be  kept.  From  April  30,  1643,  in  a  re- 
gular series  to  the  present  period,  there  are  eight  volumes  of  pa- 
rochial records  in  tolerable  preservation.  There  is  a  register  of 
deaths  since  the  year  1752.  For  many  years  after  1643,  near- 
ly the  whole  heritors  and  principal  tacksmen  were  elders, — an  ex- 
ample worthy  of  imitation  at  the  present  day.  The  office  of  the 
elders  was  no  sinecure,  nor  were  they  shy  of  using  their  authority. 
It  appears  that  they  were  not  only  the  protectors  of  good  morals, 
but  assumed  a  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction.  In  1660,  two  men 
and  four  women  were  convicted  on  their  own  confession,  of 
"  promiscuous  dancing,"  that  is,  of  dancing  together  at  a  mar- 
riage. They  escaped  with  being  "  sharplie  rebuked  ;"  but  the 
poor  piper  John  Moore,  from  the  next  parish  of  "  Carnbie,"  who 
acted  as  minstrel  on  that  occasion,  was  obliged  "  to  put  his  hand 
to  the  pen,"  not  to  repeat  the  offence,  "  under  a  penalty  toties  quo- 
ties,"  which  would  now  be  equivalent  to  a  couple  of  pounds  Sterling. 
Moreover,  on  the  following  Sunday,  "he  was  humbled  on  his  knees 
before  the  pulpit  in  face  of  the  congregation,"  in  public  penance  for 
his  conduct.  In  1649,  "  Alexander  Brune  was  put  into  ihejoggs 
from  the  second  bell  to  the  last  bell  before  sermon  on  forenoone, 
and  afterwards  entered  on  the  place  of  repentance  for  the  sin  of  un- 
cleanness  with  Elpeth  Berown."  Though  it  be  stated  in  the  re- 
cord, that  during  the  above  period,  the  Presbytery  on  several  oc- 
casions issued  their  pastoral  admonitions  against  prevailing  vices, 
yet  delinquencies  were  frequently  brought  before  the  kirk-session, 
which  would  be  deprecated  in  these  latter  and  less  zealous  days. 
Weavers  are  sometimes  cited  for  carrying  home  their  webs  to  their 
customers  on  Sundays,  and  millers  are  cited  for  grinding  corn,  and 
reapers  for  cutting  down  corn  on  that  holy  day.  In  1652,  the 
kn-k-session  of  Dunino  not  only  acted  as  civil  and  criminal  judges, 
but  were  patrons  of  the  parish,  and  settled  the  minister.  Thus, 
May  30th  of  that  year,  it  is  stated  in  the  record,  "  that  after  the 
afternoon's  exercise,  the  minister  intimated  out  of  the  pulpit  to  the 
people,  that  the  elders  had  nominate  and  chosen  unanimously,  Mr 
Alexander  Edward,  Regent  in  the  Old  Colledge,  to  be  minister  of 


FIFESHIRE. 


their  said  parish and,  accordingly,  on  Wednesday,  13th  October 
following,  the  presbytery  did  meet  at  the  church,  "  for  admission 
of  Mr  Alexander  Edward  to  the  function  of  the  ministrie,  and  they 
did  admit  him."  Notwithstanding  the  active  oppression  of  Arch- 
bishop Sharpe  in  Fifeshire  for  eighteen  years,  no  county  in  Scot- 
land was  more  zealous  for  Presbyterianism  against  Episcopacy;  and 
during  that  period,  according  to  Wodrow's  history,  the  inhabitants 
of  "  Dunyno,"  for  their  opposition,  were  fined  in  a  sum  that  would 
now  be  equal  to  L.  1200  Sterling. 

Eminent  Men. — John  of  Fordun,  author  of  the  Scotichronicon, 
the  oldest  Scottish  historian,  is  said  to  have  resided  for  a  consider- 
able time  in  this  parish, — which  is  the  more  probable,  that  he  was 
a  native  of  St  Andrew's  diocese,  of  which  Dunino  formed  a  part. 
He  spent  much  of  his  time  in  journeying.  He  travelled  over  the 
three  kingdoms,  in  quest  of  information  ;  and  his  history  may  be 
called  that  of  the  world,  as  well  as  of  Scotland.  * 

John  Winram,  Subprior  of  St  Andrews  under  the  excellent  and 
comely  Lord  James  Stuart,  eldest  of  the  three  illegitimate  brothers 
of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,— after  the  celibacy  of  the  clergy  had 
been  done  away  by  the  establishment  of  the  reformed  faith — was 
married  to  the  widow  of  the  proprietor  of  Kinaldy,  in  this  parish. 
Both  Knox  and  Buchanan  assert,  that  Mr  Winram  was  appointed 
by  Cardinal  Beaton  to  preach  a  sermon  in  the  church  of  St  An- 
drews, on  occasion  of  condemning  to  death  the  pious  Mr  Wishart. 
Knox  gives  notes  of  the  sermon,  and  Beaton  was  offended  at 
Winram  treating  a  heretic  more  mildly  than  he  thought  a  heretic 
deserved.  Buchanan  in  his  history,  gives  Winram  an  appropriate 
text,  which  he  must  have  had  from  report,  as  it  is  not  to  be  found 
in  Scripture. 

Mr  James  Wood,  who,  according  to  the  parish  record,  "  as  mi- 
nister of  Dunonow,  preached  his  valedictorie  sermon,  May  10, 
1646,"  previous  to  his  becoming  minister  of  St  Andrews,  was  one 
of  the  Commissioners  who  brought  over  from  the  continent.  King 
Charles  H.,  at  the  era  of  the  Restoration.  Mr  Wood  is  said  to 
have  been  the  brother  of  the  proprietor  of  Stravithy. 

Land-owners. — The  heritors  of  the  parish  are  as  follows,  in  the 
orders  of  their  valued  rents  :  Mr  Douglas  of  Dunino  and  Balcaithly; 

*  His  reflections  on  the  fair  part  of  the  creation,  arising  from  the  marriage  of 
King  David  II.  with  Miss  Logic,  whose  dispositions  were  the  counterpart  of  her 
beautiful  face,  and  handsome  person,  are  very  unchivah-ous,  "  femiua  fax  Satanae, 
rosa  fetens,  dulce  venenum." 


DUNINO. 


365 


Mr  Cleghorn  of  Stravithy ;  Mrs  Mouat  of  Pittalrthy ;  Mr  Purves  of 
Kinaldy;  Mr  Hannah  of  Kingsmuir,  and  the  Kirk-session  of  Elieon 
the  south  coast.  All  those  properties  have  come  into  the  possession 
of  the  families  of  the  present  land-owners,  within  the  last  thirty-two 
years,  save  Pittairthy,  Kingsmuir,  and  Primrose.  It  is  said  that 
Pittairthy,  forfeited  to  the  Crown,  was  sold  by  Royalty  to  the  Earl  of 
Glencairn,  and  has  continued  in  a  younger  branch  of  that  illustrious 
family  till  the  present  day.  Kingsmuir  has  been  at  least  eighty- 
one  years  in  the  family  of  Mr  Hannah.  Primrose  was  a  section  sold 
from  Balcaithly,  within  the  last  forty-six  years. 

Antiquities, —  Until  within  thelast  few  years,  there  were  three  war 
castles  or  fortalices  in  the  parish.  One  was  on  the  east  of  it,  over- 
hanging the  south  bank  of  the  Kenly,  called  the  Castle  of  Draffan, 
supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  Danes,  who  often  invaded  the 
east  coast  of  Fife,  and  slew  one  of  the  Scottish  kings  at  Crail. 
The  second  was  the  Castle  of  Stravithy,  a  little  west  from  the 
centre  of  the  parish.    It  is  described  by  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  as 
entire,  about  a  hundred  and  twenty-seven  years  ago  ;  it  was  a  regu- 
lar fortalice,  situated  in  a  bog  with  ditch  and  drawbridge^and, 
according  to  the  son  of  a  feuar  who  lived  hard  by,  was  surround- 
ed with  ornamental  walks  and  lofty  trees,  some  of  which  trees  at 
present  remain.    The  bog  has  been  drained,  and  the  site  of  the 
castle  been  converted  into  corn-land.    The  third  is  the  Castle 
of  Pittairthy,  built  on  a  declivity  towards  the  south  part  of  the 
parish,  and  commanding  a  wide  prospect  ^of  the  German  sea. 
Though  it  has  long  been  unroofed  and  unrepaired,  it  may  defy 
the  assault  of  the  elements  for  centuries  to  come.    This  structure 
appears  to  have  been  erected  at  two  separate  periods.   The  west  or 
first  built  is  a  large  square  tower,  the  date  of  erection  uncertain. 
Near  the  west  top,  was  a  keep  or  donjon,  very  common  in  those 
military  abodes,  with  a  strong  iron  grating  across  an  opening  in  the 
wall,  to  serve  for  a  window.    The  whole  under  part  is  vaulted, 
which  probably  served  for  cellars,  kitchen,  and  bed-rooms.  The 
upper  part  of  the  castle  is  perforated  with  holes,  by  which  to  an- 
noy the  besiegers.    The  east  or  modern  part,  according  to  the 
inscription  on  it,  was  built  in  1653,  by  Sir  William  Bruce  of  Kin- 
ross.   It  contained  only  a  baronial  hall,  and  two  sleeping  apart- 
ments, stone-paved. 

About  one  furlong  and  a  third  north  of  the  church,  on  Dunino 
Uw,  from  which  it  has  been  shown  the  parish  probably  derives  its 
name,  the  ruins  of  a  nunnery  were  dug  up  and  removed  in  the 


366 


FIFESHIRE, 


year  1815.  The  height  of  the  walls  is  unknown,  but  the  struc- 
ture consisted  of  unhewn  stones,  cemented  with  mortar,  instead 
of  lime.  The  internal  space  was  formed  into  two  divisions,  and 
the  door  fronted  the  east. 

There  are  three  stones  nearly  close  to  the  west  wall  of  the  mi- 
nister's garden,  which  seem  to  have  been  part  of  a  Druidical  circle. 
This  is  rendered  probable  by  several  circumstances.  There,  the  ris- 
ing sun  may  be  seen  ;  and  a  few  yards  westward,  is  part  of  a  sand- 
stone rock  artificially  tubulated,  in  which,  tradition  relates  that  the 
priests  of  the  Druid  faith  collected  dew  on  the  first  day  of  May  or 
Bel-tien,  and  sprinkling  the  people,  pronounced  a  blessing  on  them 
from  the  God  of  Fire,  that  is  the  sun  in  the  firmament,  which  they 
ignorantly  worshipped.  A  short  mile  westward  is  a  farm  mention- 
ed in  the  register  of  the  priory  of  St  Andrews  in  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury, still  csiWed Pi ftan-druidh,  the  grave  of  the  Druids,  vulgarly 
Pittendriech. 

From  the  chartulary  of  Aberbrothock,  it  appears  that,  in  1242, 
Stravithy  estate,  in  this  parish,  paid  stipend  to  tlie  Culdees  at 
lona,  and  afterwards  to  some  disciples  of  the  Romish  faith,  which 
appears  to  have  continued  at  Dunino,  notwithstanding  the  zeal  of 
presbyteries,  till  near  the  Union.  For  within  the  last  ten  years, 
some  copper  coins  of  Charles  I.  and  II.,  and  William  and  Mary, 
were  found  in  a  grave  in  the  churchyard,  which  money,  it  is  sup- 
posed, had  been  destined  to  pay  the  passage  of  the  party  interred, 
out  of  purgatory. 

Twenty  years  ago,  two  coins,  one  gold,  and  the  other  silver,  struck 
in  the  reign  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  were  dug  up,  the  one  in  the 
parish,  the  other  in  the  neighbourhood.  Both  of  these  coins  had 
probably  been  brought  by  the  vessels  of  the  Armada  that  were 
stranded  on  the  coast  of  Fife.  They  were  sent  to  an  eminent  an- 
tiquary in  Dundee. 

In  spring  1836,  in  afield  belonging  to  Balcaithly,  in  this  parish, 
there  was  torn  up  by  the  plough  an  urn  containing  probably  the 
reliques  of  some  Roman  chief. 

III. — Population. 

In  1793,  the  population,  judging  from  the  records  of  baptisms,  was  383,  same  as  in 

1800,               -                  -               -  ■  w> 

1803                ....  320 

1811,  140  males  and  167  females,          -           -  total,  307 

1821,151    do.        192    do.             -                -  342 

1831,  183    do.        200    do.         -            -           -  J8-< 


DUNINO. 


3G7 


The  annual  average  of  births,  &c.  for  1834  and  six  years  pre- 
ceding, was  as  follows  :  — 

Births,  -  11^ 

Marriages,  -  3^ 

Deaths,       -  -  32- 

There  are  71  persons  occupied  in  agriculture,  and  but  15  in 
retail  trade  and  handicraft.  There  are  99  males  above  twenty ; 
12  beyond  seventy ;  and  1  nearly  ninety.  Within  the  last  twenty 
years,  2  died  above  ninety.  There  are  78  families  living  in  74 
houses,  at  very  nearly  5  in  a  family.  Two  new  houses  are  in  the 
progress  of  building,  and  there  is  no  uninhabited  house.  There 
are  no  blind  or  deaf  in  the  parish  ;  and  three,  a  man,  woman,  and 
child,  in  separate  families,  are  insane. 

IV. —  Industry. 

The  parish  of  Dunino  may  be  described  as  wholly  agricultural. 
A  corn-mill  stands  on  the  estate  of  Stravithy  ;  and  it  may_be  noti- 
ced, that  the  roof  of  the  mill  is  supported  by  oak  rafters  that  once 
covered  Cardinal  Beaton's  proud  castle  at  St  Andrews.  This 
corn-mill  is  of  powerful  operation,  and  skilfully  manufactures  into 
meal,  at  lOd.  Sterling,  a  boll  of  oats  of  the  old  Scottish  measure. 
Within  seventy  years,  there  were  five  corn-mills  in  the  parish,  one 
on  every  estate  save  Kingsmuir,  to  which  all  the  farmers  were 
bound  for  multure.    These  astrictions  are  now  unknown. 

The  extent  of  the  different  properties  in  the  parish  in  Scotch 
acres,  and  the  rent  in  the  year  1836,  may  be  found  in  the  follow- 
ing tables : 

Acres.  Plantations. 
Dunino  and  Balcaithly,  -  1310  130 

Stravithy,  .  .  .        700  ]30 

Pittairthy,       .  .  -  187  None 

South  Kinaldy,    -  .  .         175  jq 

Kingsmuir,        ...  844  None 

Primrose,  -  .  -       36  '  Do. 

Glebe,  -  -  -  23  Do. 

Total  acres,        3275  270 

Rent  of  the  parish  in  1836,  in  Sterling  money: 

Dunino  and  Balcaithly     -  _  .  L  1363    0  0 

^'r.'^y^  ■  927    0  0 

Pittairthy,  ,  .  .  .  .  250    0  0 

South  Kmaldy,         .  .  .  .  -       237    0  0 

^'Pg^""""-'   300    0  0 

Primrose,  .  .  .  .  .        17    0  0 

 -  28    0  0 

Real  rent  in  1793,  according  to  Sir  J.  Sinclair's  statistics^  1157    0  0 
Increase  in  forty-three  years,  L.  1 965    0  0 

As  Kingsmuir  lay  waste  in  the  seventh  year  of  Charles  II.  when 


3G8  I'MFESIIIIIE. 

Cromwell's  prior  valuation  was  fixed  as  the  standard  of  estimation, 
— deduct  from  L.  3122,  the  present  rent  of  the  parish, — the  pre- 
sentment of  Kinirsmuir,  and  the  balance  is  L.  2822  ;  so  that  the  rent 
of  Dunino  parish  has  increased  above  fourteen  times  in  169  years, 
— the  valued  rent  in  Scotchmoney  being  L,  2334, 6s.  8d.,  orL.  194, 
10s.  ei%d.  Sterling. 

The  plantations  have  increased  since  the  former  Account  was 
drawn  up,  210  acres;  and,  deducting  120  acres  for  ground  still 
waste  that  may  be  cultivated,  2444  acres  have-  been  added  to  the 
cultivated  soil. 

The  value  of  live-stock  on  the  farms,  including  horses,  black-cat- 
tle, sheep,  swine,  and  poultry  in  1836,  amounted  to  L.  5670  ;  im- 
plements of  husbandry,  including  eleven  thrashing  machines, 
L.  1800;  total,  L.  7470.  Value  of  stock  forty-three  years  ago, 
L.  2476;  increase,  L.  4994. 

Kind  and  value  of  the  crop  for  the  year  1836,  as  under : 

Wheat,        -  -  -  L-2105  0  0 

Barley,  -  -  -       1823  0  0 

Oats,^         -  -  -  2723  0  0 

Pease  and  beans,  -  -         505  0  0 

Potatoes,      .  -  -  12-2?  0  0 

Turnips,  -  -  "       J^^  ^  ^ 

Flax,  64  stones  at  -  -  4b    U  U 

L.  11272    0  0 


Aunual  produce  of  crop  in  1793,        .       2596  0 


0 


Increase  in  forty-three  years,         L.867fi    0  0 

It  is  stated  in  the  former  Statistical  Account,  that  the  soil  is 
"  adapted  chiefly  for  oats  and  barley ;"  but  there  is  now  raised 
more  value  of  wheat  than  barley,  and  the  quality  is  excellent.  The 
fiars  for  wheat  were  first  struck  in  1649,  as  appears  by  the  Sheriff- 
Court  books  of  Fife;  and  that  year,  the  boll  of  wheat  was  so  high- 
priced  as  L.  1,  Os.  Ifd.  Sterling.  The  Chevalier  barley,  as  well 
as  the  common  kind,  is  in  general  use  ;  but  though  estimable 
for  its  great  weight,  it  is  costly,  by  requiring  a  rich  soil,  and 
■  hazardous  in  late  seasons,  requiring  six  weeks  longer  to  mature, 
after  sowing  than  ordinary  barley.  In  1643,  by  the  Fife  fiars,  a 
boll  of  "  bear"  was  10s.  Sterling.  Several  sorts  of  oats,  as  the 
Drummond  and  Tartar  kind,  are  tried.  The  potato  oats,  from 
their  speedy  arrival  at  maturity,  bid  fair  to  be  preferable.  The 
boll  of  "  aits  and  meall,"  by  the  Fife  fiars  in  1643,  was  8s.  4d. 
SterlincT.  Flax  is  nearly  discontinued  in  the  parish,  and  will  be 
'so  genenilly,  when  calcareous  manures  are  introduced.  Cotton,  too, 
in  many  respects,  supplies  the  use  of  flax  at  a  much  cheaper  rate ; 


DUNINO. 


369 


and  where  linen  is  wanted,  fabrics  of  that  kind  from  Ireland  can 
be  purchased  at  a  far  lower  price  by  the  farmer,  than  by  home  ma- 
nufacture. Every  advantage  which  can  be  derived  from  good  agri- 
cultural seeds  is  studied.  The  eleven  thrashing-mill^;  and  other 
implements  of  husbandry  are  generally  of  the  best  construction. 

The  breed  of  black-cattle,  neat-limbed,  horned,  and  of  a  dark 
colour,  common  at  Dunino  and  over  the  county,  and  called  the 
Fife  breed,  is  celebrated.  This  race  is  known  to  have  originated 
from  the  bounty  of  James  VI.  of  Scotland.  That  monarch,  on 
his  accession  to  the  English  throne,  had  drawn  largely  on  his  for- 
mer neighbours  at  Falkland,  to  support  his  royal  dignity ;  and  to 
remunerate  them,  he  selected  and  sent  down  a  race  of  excellent 
black-cattle,  from  the  early  cultivated  region  of  south  Britain, 
which  have  been  improved  for  two  centuries,  in  the  luxuriant  pas- 
tures of  Fifeshire.  At  Dunino,  cattle  of  the  yellow  or  spotted  Ayr- 
shire breed,  may  also  be  found ;  but  the  Fife  breed  is  most  ap- 
proved for  fast  feeding  in  grass  parks,  dm-ing  summer,  and  the 
cows  of  that  race  are  distinguished  as  milkers.  In  the  parish,  about 
190  sheep  of  the  Linton  and  Biggar  or  Northumberland  breed, 
are  fatted  for  the  owners'  tables,  or  sold  to  the  butchers  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

Except  in  Kingsmuir,  there  are  only  two  farms  under  L.  50  of 
rent,  the  rents  of  the  other  farms  running  from  L.  100  to  nearly 
L.  600.  On  Kingsmuir,  the  rents  of  farms  proceed  in  a  regular  gra- 
dation from  L.  5  to  L.  33.  A  domain  like  Kingsmuir,  beginning  to 
emerge  into  agricultural  importance,  may  be  well  cultivated  as  at 
present  by  small  tenants.  A  man  and  his  family  with  twelve  acres 
will  raise  far  more  corn  and  cattle  in  proportion,  than  he  who  rents 
nmety~six  acres,  because  he  must  employ  strangers  to  assist  him. 
A  tacksman  on  a  large  scale  on  the  east  part  of  Kingsmuir  has  recent- 
ly exhibited  such  proofs  of  enterprise,  as  to  show,  that  if  he  and  a 
few  other  similar  tacksmen  had  the  whole  844  acres  in  their  hands, 
they  would  improve  them,  more  quickly  at  least,  than  small  te- 
nants. Seventy  years  have  not  elapsed  since  the  best  farmers  here 
had  but  a  thin  partition  between  their  bedrooms  and  bestial.  Now, 
the  principal  tenantry  either  inhabit  houses  of  two  stories,  or  a 
handsome  house  of  one  storey;  in  both  cases,  with  a  suitable  es- 
tablishment of  offices.  Straw  roofs  for  cottages  are  going  into 
disuse,  and  slate  or  tile  roofs  are  generally  adopted. 

The  great  promoter  of  agricultural  improvement  in  the  parish 


;^70  FIFESHIRE. 


of  Diinino,  was  the  public-spirited  Sir  William  Areskine  of  Torry, 
predecessor  and  relative  of  Captain  Areskine  Wemyss,  at  present 
Member  of  Parliament  for  the  county  of  Fife."    About  1767,  Sir 
William,  as  proprietor  of  the  estate  of  Dunino,  made  the  same  fe- 
licitous attack  on  the  asperities  of  the  soil,  as  he  had  previously 
done  on  the  rebels  in  America.  In  Sir  Robert  Sibbald's  descrip- 
tion of  Fife,  which  was  published  about  1710,  he  says,  when  you 
come  to  the  east  moors  of  Fifeshire,  by  which  he  meant  Kingsmuir, 
the  first  place  which'attracts  attention  is  the  castle  of  Stravithy ; 
Dunino  estate,  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  held  unworthy  of  notice.  At 
this  period,  the  conterminous  heritors  had  a  right  "  to  dig  feal  and 
divot"  on  Kingsmuir,  and  to  "  pasture  their  cattle  ;"  which  usages 
were  bought  up,  by  granting  them  sections  of  land  in  recompense. 
The  rest°of  the  parish,  like  Kingsmuir,  lay  open  and  uninclosed, 
and  the  whole  bestial  of  the  forty-four  farms,  in  addition  to  those  of 
Kingsmuir,  were  in  autumn  sent  forth,  as  at  present  in  Iceland, 
for  promiscuous  pasture,— though  the  act  of  James  VII.  had  ex- 
isted for  ninety  years,  prohibiting  such  destructive  practice.  It 
was  in  this  state  of  agricultural  barbarity,  that  Sir  William  Ares- 
kine commenced  his  operations.    He  enclosed  his  whole  estate 
with  substantial  stone  fences  five  feet  high  ;  and  ditches  along 
side  of  them  were  superadded.    He  introduced  wheat,  potatoes, 
and  turnips ;  and  these  two  latter  crops  were  so  scarce  in  the  east 
of  Fife,  that  at  night  they  were  plundered,  like  apples  from  an 
orchard.    The  horses  were  shod  not  only  as  formerly  on  the  fore 
feet,  but  also  on  the  hinder  feet.    Metal  plates  were  appended  to 
the  timber  ploughs,  as  mould  boards ;  the  cart  wheels  of  solid  wood 
were  abandoned ;  recourse  was  had  to  the  saddler,  instead  of  the 
flax-dresser,  for  harness ;  large  stones  which  impeded  agricultural 
operations  were  removed  from,  the  fields;  the  crooked  ridges  were 
made  straight ;  and  plantations  were  formed  to  shelter  the  higher 
grounds.    For  some  years  the  tacksmen  of  Dunino  were  looked 
up  to,  as  presenting  to  the  public,  experimental  farms. 

Such  an  example  was  not  lost.  The  properties  of  Kinaldy, 
Pittairthy,  Balcaithly,  and  the  most  of  Stravithy,  have  been  in- 
closed with  stone  fences,  and  in  general  substantially  drained. 
The  empire  of  bog-plants  is  on  the  wane,  and  the  parish,  de- 
scribed in  the  former  Account  as  "  wet  and  spongy,"  will  soon, 
in  every  part,  deserve  tlie  opposite  character.  The  rents,  as  has 
been  shown,  are  moderate  ;  the  tenants  are  in  good  terms  with 


DUNINO. 


371 


their  landlords ;  and  one  tenant  occupies  the  farm  entered  upon 
by  his  grandfather  seventy  years  ago.  The  loss  by  corn-merchants 
is  a  theme  on  which  some  farmers  dwell.  Here,  there  is  a  persua- 
sion, that,  without  corn  agents,  farming  would  be  at  a  stop. 

Ninety-one  years  ago,  at  the  time  of  the  last  Rebellion,  the  scanty 
crops  raised  at  Dunino  could  scarcely  find  market.  There  was  no 
wheat,  and  the  oats  were  kept  for  support  of  the  family  ;  the  barley 
or  rather  bear  was  given,  the  one-half  for  rent,  and  the  other  half 
of  the  rent  was  paid  by  cattle.  One-fourth  of  the  bear  was  given 
in  kind  to  the  brewer  in  the  parish,  for  beer  to  the  family,  and  the 
other  fourth  was  sold  for  cash  either  to  him,  or  to  some  of  the 
thirty- three  brewers  in  St  Andrews,  to  buy  gin  or  brandy,  which 
then  and  long  after,  were  delivered  in  large  quantities  from  con- 
traband ships  on  the  coast.  What  clothes  the  family  of  the 
farmer  required  were  manufactured  by  themselves.  A  great  part 
of  business  was  transacted  by  barter.. 

Plantations. — The  plantations  in  the  parish,  wherever  formed, 
are  prosperous.  Those  beside  the  two  streamlets  consist  of  a  va- 
riety of  hard-wood  trees.  The  other  plantations  are  of  larch  or 
Scotch  fir.  Some  parts  of  the  plantations  have  of  late  been 
cut  down ;  but  it  is  hoped  they  will  soon  be  replaced  by  a  new 
stock. 

Valued  Rent. —  The  valued  rent  of  Stravithy  estate  is  somewhat 
larger  than  that  of  Dunino  apart  from  Balcaithly,  to  which  it  is 
now  united;  so  that  in  the  7th  of  Charles  II.,  the  property  must 
have  been  superior.  It  fell  in  the  rear  by  Sir  William  Areskine's 
improvements ;  but  the  active  skill  of  the  present  proprietor  has 
well  nigh  raised  it  to  its  former  pre-eminence, — though  the  soil  be 
often  less  grateful  than  that  of  Dunino  estate,  which  is  sandy  or 
alluvial,— whereas  the  other  is  in  many  places  rather  a  stiff  clay. 
The  proprietor  of  Dunino  deserves  praise  for  the  handsome  ac- 
commodation he  has  afforded,  and  is  still  affording,  to  his  tenantry, 
and  the  proprietor  of  Stravithy  for  his  flourishing  plantations,  the 
drainage  of  his  fields,  and  the  handsome  cottages  he  has  erected, 
for  the  servants  of  his  principal  tacksman.    The  proprietor  of 
Kinaldy,  on  the  northern  part  of  his  estate,  separated  from  this  pa- 
rish only  by  a  rivulet,  has  erected  a  splendid  establishment  of  farm 
buildings. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Dunmo  possesses  good  public  roads,  and  near  markets.  There 


372 


FirERllIRE. 


is  a  turnpike  road  crossing  the  parish  from  St  Andrews  to  An- 
struther,  which  are  both  sca-ports — and  have  both  a  weekly  market 
ibr  grain— the  distance  from  four  to  five  miles.   Yearly,  there  are 
15  horse  and  black-cattle  fairs,  within  seven  miles.    We  are  sur- 
rounded by  post-offices  ;  one  is  within  three,  another  four,  and  an- 
other five  miles.    Other  three  post-offices  are  within  seven  miles. 
There  is  a  curricle  which  plies  thrice  a  week  across  the  parish, 
from  Anstruther  to  St  Andrews.  From  St  Andrews  to  Cupar,  the 
county  town,  a  distance  of  eleven  miles,  two  coaches  run  weekly ; 
in  a  like  space,  they  go  twice  to  Dundee,  the  same  distance  as  Cu- 
par.  The  fuel  used  in  the  parish  is  coal,  which  may  be  found  sea- 
borne at  either  of  the  adjacent  towns  above-mentioned,  or  at  the 
coal  mines  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  not  more  distant  than 
those  towns. 

7„„s._There  are  two  inns  in  the  parish,  which  are  sources  of 
no  intemperance. 

Ecclesiastical  State— The  stipend  of  Dunino  was  augmented 
in  1709.   About  forty-two  years  ago,  Dr  Brown,  then  incumbent, 
received  a  considerable  addition.    The  former  and  present  mini- 
ster received  also  an  augmentation,  and  the  living,  beside  the  sti- 
pend victual  payable  by  the  fiars,  includes  63  old  Scotch  bolls,  half 
oatmeal  and  half  barley,  at  L.  85,  13s.  Id.  of  surrendered  teind, 
which,  with  a  manse  and  offices  erected  about  fifteen  years  ago, 
and  23  acres  of  glebe,  may  amount  to  L.  260  a  year.  The 
present  incumbent,  Mr  Roger,  is  the  eighth  minister  of  the  pa- 
rish since  1697,  when  Mr  Knox,  a  relative  of  the  great  Re- 
former, John  Knox,  was  inducted  into  office.  The  church  of  Dunino 
was  built  in  1S26,  and  is  a  neat  Gothic  edifice,  with  an  altar-win- 
dow in  the  west  gable.    It  contains  thirty-two  pews,  designed  for 
six  sitters  in  each,  but  might  hold  seven,  in  all  224.    The  area 
in  the  church  has  been  divided  by  the  sheriff  as  under :— The 
patron,  the  United  College  of  St  Andrews,  had  the  first  choice, 
the  minister  next,  and  the  heritors  according  to  their  valued  rent. 
The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  pew,  and  all  the  other  pews  are 
proportionally  annexed  to  the  estates,  and  divided  among  the  far- 
mers and  their  dependents,  excepting  eight  pews  in  front  of  the 
pulpit  and  adjoining,  which  are  let  by  the  kirk-session,  and  these 
form  the  sacred  tables  at  the  communion  season.    The  number  of 
commutiicants  generally  is  from  130  to  160 ;   but  upwards  of 
200  have  been  known  to  communicate.    The  church  is  centri- 


DUN1N0. 


373 


cally  situated,*  and  there  are  but  two  or  tliree  families  of  Se- 
ceders. 

Poor's  Funds. — The  poor's  revenue  at  Duuino  requires  no  long 
recital.  There  is  but  a  single  pauper  on  the  kirk-session  fund,  at 
*2s.  a-month;  but  the  heritors  have,  since  autumn.  1834,  contribut- 
ed, according  to  their  valued  rent,  L.  6,  4s.  5d.  to  support  other 
four  paupers,  at  2s.  or  3s.  a-niontli  each,  as  circumstances  re- 
quire, with  an  additional  boon  out  of  this  sum  to  buy  coals.  The 
kirk-session  fund  consists  of  the  following  items :  a  small  sum  for 
church  seat-rent;  a  tax  on  the  use  of  the  mortcloth,  and  the  pro- 
clamation of  marriage  banns;  penalty  on  illegitimate  births  in 
certain  cases  (and  two  illegitimate  births  occur  perhaps  twice  in 
three  years;)  the  proceeds  from  collections  at  the  church  door,  and 
from  money  deposited  at  interest,— forming  a  small  total  annually 
of  about  L.  9,  8s.  7d.  From  this  little  capital  fall  to  be  paid,  be- 
sides the  pauper,  the  session-clerk,  precentor,  kirk-officer,  the  sy- 
nod and  presbytery  clerk,  and  presbytery  officer.  Thus  the  pro- 
vision for  the  poor,  and  for  the  whole  kirk-sessional  business  of  the 
parish,  does  not  exceed  L.  15,  13s.  a-year. 

Education* — There  has  never  been  but  one  parochial  school  in 

According  to  the  parish  register  in  the  year  1643,  a  declaration  was  issued  by 
the  Presbytery  of  St  Andrews,  to  be  published  in  every  parish  within  their  bounds, 
and  which  was  confirmed  by  the  General  Assembly,  the  tenor  whereof  follows  :  "  That 
the  wofui  ignorance,  rudeness,  stubbornness,  incapacity  seen  among  the  common  peo- 
ple, proceed  from  want^of  schools  in  landward,  and  not  putting  bairns  to  school  where 
they  are— therefore  it  is  ordained  that  all  possible  means  be  used,  that  there  be  a 
school  m  every  congregation,  and  that  where  there  is  one  already,  every  one  that  hath 
chddren  put  them  to  school,  if  past  seven  years  old— if  the  parents  be  poor,  that  the 
knk-session  take  order  for  paying  the  schoolmaster  either  out  of  the  poor's  box,  or 
by  a  quarterly  collection — but  if  the  parents  be  able,  then  let  them  be  obliged  both 
to  send.their  bairns  when  the  session  gives  order,  and  not  to  remove  them  till  the 
Session  be  acquainted."  In  the  spirit  of  this  wise  detlaratiou,  it  is  said  in  the  regis- 
ter, that  «  Tuesday,  6th  June  1643,  the  minister,  with  the  heritors  of  the  parish  and 
elders  of  the  session,  did  convene  at  the  kirk  :  there  was  lent  out  of  the  box  for  ad- 
yancement  to  _Mr  James  Richardsone,  reader,  for  bypast  service,  108  merks,"  (that 
is,  L.  6,  Sterling:)  "  As  also  it  was  ordained  that  Mr  James  should  begiune  his  school 
on  Moonday  next,  and  that  he  should  have  a  hundredth  pound  a  year,"  (that  is, 
I^.  8,  6s.  _8d.  Sterling,)  "  and  that  the  same  should  be  payed  to  him  at  two  terms 
in  the  yeir,  viz.  Whitsunday  and  Martinmasse."  Whatever  the  school  fees  were,  this 
was  a  handsome  salary  ;  for,  being  twenty  four  years  before  the  seventh  year  of  Charles 
11.,  when  the  valued  rent  taken  by  Cromwell  was  confirmed  as  the  standard  of  va- 
luation, the  L.  100  Scotch  in  the  parish  might  be  equal  to  L.  1400  Scotch  now.  or 
U  1 16,  13s.  4d.  After  the  act  passed  in  the  reign  of  William  III.  1C96,  "  settling 
a  school  m  every  parish  not  already  provided,  by  advice  of  the  heritors  and  minister," 
leaving  out  the  kirk-session,— Mr  Dick  was  schoolmaster  of  Dunino  for  twenty  years, 
c"^J{    }°  ' '^l^'  ''^'"'■y  ^^is  t'lf^  maximum  then  allowed  by  law,  or  L.  i  1 

-s.  23  d.  Supposing  his  salary  twelve  times  the  present  nominal  amount,  it  would 
reach  to  L.  133,  6s.,  that  is  L.  IC,  12s.  8d.  more  than  Mr  Richardsone's.  In  addi- 
tion to  this,  provisions  during  Mr  Dick's  time  were  generally  cheap,  and  his  school 
tees  enormous.    Though  in  I6l>8,  according  to  the  Fife  liars  register,  the  oatmeal  a 


374 


FIFKSIIIRE. 


the  parish.  It  is  centrically  situated,  and  but  a  few  yards  from  its  ori- 
ginal site.  The  scale  of  fees,  formed  in  1805,  has  been  continued  to 
the  present  schoolmaster,  who  succeeded  his  brother,  the  author  of 
"  Anster  Fair."  His  salary  is  the  maximum;  and  this,  with  L.3, 
as  session-clerk,  dues  on  proclamation  of  banns  of  marriage,  grant- 
ing certificates  of  character  to  those  removing  from  the  parish,  and 
keeping  the  register  of  births— added  to  the  school  fees,  and  a 
neat  new  dwelling  house  and  garden,  may  amount  to  L.  60  a  year, 
There  is  nobody  in  the  parish  above  seven  years  old,  untaught  to 
read ;  and  there  are  but  few  grown  up  persons  who  cannot  also 
write.  The  desire  of  knowledge  is  ardent.   There  are  several  co- 
pies of  the  Bible  in  every  house.    Some  new  publications  visit  the 
parish ;  and  at  present  there  are  read  in  it  weekly  nine  different 
newspapers. 

November  1837. 

boll  was  15s.  Sterling,  during  the  rest  of  his  incumbency,  the  price  of  it  ran  from  3s. 
4d.  to  lis.  8d.  Sterling  a  boll;  butcher  meat  sold  at  |id.  per  pound;  and  a  tailor 
wrought  at  -id.  a  day.  The  parish  register  shows  that  the  lowest  quarter  fee  then 
was  Is.  3d.,  which  would  have  required  the  pay  of  more  than  seven  and  a  half  days 
of  an  ordinary  tradesman,  or  9s.  44d  at  present,  which  in  most  cases  would  be  equal 
to  a  prohibition  of  attending  school.  In  1805,  two  years  after  the  new  act  m  favour 
of  parochial  schoolmasters  was  framed,  a  schoolmaster  of  Dunmo,  a  licentiate  of 
the  Scottish  church,  qualified  not  only  to  teach  the  ordinary  branciies  of  education, 
but  French,  Latin,  Greek,  and  Hebrew,  had  the  school  fees  raised  to  him,  which  had 
declined  by  the  gradual  influx  of  money  into  the  kingdom.  The  quarter  fee  for 
English  reading  was  made  2s.  ;  for  writing,  3s. ;  for  arithmetic,  3s.  6d. ;  and  for  La- 
tin,  4s, 


PARISH  OF  KENNOWAY. 

PRESBYTEKY  OF  KIRKCALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  DAVID  BELL,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  S)C. —  The  village  of  Kennoway,  which  in  all  probability 
gave  its  name  originally  to  the  parish  so  called,  is  built  along  the 
top  of  a  ridge  which  forms  the  head  of  a  very  sweet  little  glen,  or 
den,  as  it  is  commonly  called.  Of  this  situation,  the  name  Kenno- 
way, as  derived  from  the  Gaelic  language,  is  said  to  be  exactly  de- 
scriptive :  Kean-nan-uiagh,  signifying  "  the  head  of  the  den." 

The  parish  of  Kennoway  is,  in  figure,  nearly  an  oblong  ;  ex- 
tending about  3  miles  from  east  to  west ;  and  upwards  of  2  from 
south  to  north.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  west,  by  the  parish 
of  Markinch;  on  the  north,  by  that  of  Kettle;  and  on  the  east,  by 
that  of  Scoonie. 

Topographical  Appearances. — In  its  general  aspect,  the  parish 
of  Kennoway  is  a  sloping  bank,  ascending  from  south  to  north  : 
having  the  surface  abundantly  and  beautifully  diversified,  however, 
by  irregular  and  gently  rising  heights,  and  corresponding  declivi- 
ties. "  The  prospect  from  almost  every  part,"  as  is  accurately  re- 
marked in  the  former  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish,  "  is  exten- 
sive and  beautiful ;  commanding  a  distinct  view  of  the  Island  of 
May,  of  the  Bass  Rock,  of  Inchkeith,  of  the  shipping  on  the  Forth, 
of  the  coast  south  of  the  Forth,  from  Dunbar  to  the  west  of  Edin- 
burgh, including  the  Lammermoor  hills,"  and  part  of  thePentlands. 
"  From  the  north  part  of  the  parish,  which  reaches  the  top  of  the 
bank,  there  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  views  imaginable,  taking  in 
not  only  the  fore-mentioned  prospect  to  the  south,  but  compre- 
hending almost  all  Fife,  and  a  great  part  of  the  counties  of  Angus, 
Perth,  and  Stirling,  and  of  the  Grampian  mountains."  In  the  cot- 
house  of  Lalathan,  situated  on  nearly  the  most  elevated  point  of 
the  ridge,  is  said  to  be  the  highest  hearth-stone  in  the  county. 

Meteorology. — The  mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  taken 
at  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.  for  six  successive  years,  is  as  under  : — ■ 


•616 


FIFESIIIRK 


1831,  mean  temperature  53°.6  1834,  mean  temperature,  53"  3 

J832,  52.9  1R35,  54-5 

1833,  53.1  183G,  53.3 

Climate. —  The  climate  is,  on  the  whole,  far  from  being  unpro- 
pitious.  The  atmosphere  is,  for  the  most  part,  mild  and  dry  ;  the 
harvests  are  earlier  than  the  general  average  of  the  county  ;  and 
the  healthiness  of  the  situation  has  been  long  noted  and  abundant- 
ly experienced. 

Hydrography. — A  few  small  rivulets  or  burns,  some  of  which 
intersect  the  parish  in  different  directions,  while  others  form  consi- 
derable portions  of  its  boundaries,  are  the  only  water  scenery  of 
which  it  can  boast.  None  of  them  are  of  any  note  : — but  that  which 
entering  the  parish  on  the  north,  near  Balnkirk,  and  following  a 
circuitous  course,  till  it  meets  another  little  stream  on  the  south- 
eastboundary,  atthehamletof  Kennoway-burns, — whence  thus  aug- 
mented, it  proceeds  about  a  mile  to  the  southward,  to  fall  into  the 
Leven, — is  worthy  of  special  mention.  It  is  so,  from  this  circum- 
stance, that,  passing  close  to  the  village  of  Kennoway,  its  banks 
there  are  high,  winding,  and  beautifully  diversified ;  in  some  places 
steep  and  rocky,  jutting  out  into  rugged  points,  which  bring  the 
opposite  sides  into  near  contact ;  in  other  places,  more  sloping,  and 
of  course  leaving  a  wider  space  between  ;  and  everywhere,  finely 
covered  with  wood.  The  channel  of  the  stream  at  this  place,  with 
the  enclosure  formed  by  its  elevated  banks,  receives  the  name  of 
the  den,  which,  though  not  on  a  large  scale,  is  certainly  a  piece 
of  scenery  possessing  many  features  of  great  beauty. 

Mineralogy.— The  south  part  of  the  parish  is  incumbent  upon 
freestone  rock  of  a  soft  quality,  which  dips  towards  the  south-east. 
Upon  the  high  ground,  on  the  north  part  of  the  parish,  the  soil  is 
incumbent  on  a  ridge  of  whinstone,  which  lies  in  the  direction 
nearly  east  and  west. 

The  soil  is  of  various  qualities,  and  mostly  all  arable.  On  the 
south  and  east,  it  is  principally  light  fertile  land;  in  the  centre,  it 
is  loam  and  clay,  upon  a  retentive  subsoil ;  and  on  the  north,  upon 
the  rising  ground,  there  is  a  small  proportion  of  dry  loam,  incum- 
bent upon  the  whinstone  rock. 

This  whinstone,  at  various  points,  has  been  quarried  and  used 
for  building ;  but  more  commonly  for  road  -metal.  Freestone  to 
a  trifling  extent  is  wrought  in  the  den,  also  for  the  purposes  of 
building  ;  but  it  is  coarse  and  soft,  and  apt  to  moulder  down,  when 
exposed  to  the  weather. 

There  are  some  beds  of  red  keel  found  in  the  den  ;  and  they 

4 


KENNOWAY. 


377 


have  been  occasionally  worked  ;  but,  iieing  only  two  inches  thick, 
and  not  affording  an  adequate  remuneration,  nothing  has  been  done 
in  them  for  a  number  of  years  past. 

On  the  western  boundary  of  the  parish,  there  is  a  patch  of  peat- 
moss ;  and  towards  the  eastern  boundary,  beds  of  coal  at  various 
depths  are  found,  some  of  which  have  been  wrought,  with  scarcely 
any  intermission,  for  nearly  fifty  years  past.  The  line  of  dip  of 
the  strata  lies  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  Towards  the  east  of  the 
coal-field,  it  dips  to  the  south-east,  and  towards  the  west,  it  ap- 
proaches to  south-west.  The  dip  of  the  strata  is  about  one  foot 
in  twelve.  Slips  or  fissures,  generally  running  in  a  straight  direc- 
tion from  east  to  west,  are  found  frequently  to  interrupt  the  seams 
of  coal,  throwing  them  up  or  down  to  a  distance,  varying  from  a 
few  inches  to  eight  feet. 

The  following  journal  shows  the  metals  with  their  depths  re- 
spectively, which  have  been  gone  through  to  reach  the  seams  of 
coal  at  present  wrought,  lying  upwards  of  fifty-four  fathoms  from 


the  surface. 


Path. 

Feet. 

In. 

Fath.  Feet.  In. 

Surface  and  clay, 

1 

5 

0 

Coal  VI. 

0 

1 

4 

Bands, 

1 

4 

0 

Blaes, 

0 

1 

2 

Freestone, 

0 

3 

0 

Bands, 

0 

2 

2 

Bands. 

0 

3 

0 

Grey  freestone, 

2 

0 

0 

Blaes  with  coal, 

1 

5 

0 

Hard  bands. 

0 

2 

11 

Dark  stone. 

1 

0 

0 

Dark  blaes, 

1 

0 

5 

Coal  I. 

0 

0 

6 

Bands, 

0 

0 

6 

Bands, 

0 

2 

6 

Hard  gray  freestone. 

0 

3 

10 

Coal  I L 

0 

2 

2 

White  freestone, 

9 

2 

8 

Bands, 

0 

2 

4 

Black  bands, 

0 

0 

4 

Freestone, 

3 

0 

0 

White  bands,  . 

3 

0 

5 

C  Coal  III. 

0 

0 

6 

Blue  blaes, 

0 

3 

5 

<  Black  stone, 

0 

0 

8 

Blaes  and  bands, 

2 

2 

4 

(  Coal  IV. 

0 

I 

4 

Blaes, 

1 

1 

2 

Bands. 

I 

0 

6 

Bands, 

0 

5 

3 

Coal  V. 

0 

0 

5 

Hard  white  bands. 

0 

0 

3 

White  bands, 

0 

1 

0 

Dark  bands, 

0 

2 

] 

White  freestone, 

0 

3 

9 

Soft  blaes, 

0 

2 

6 

Blaes, 

0 

1 

0 

Dark  bands, 

0 

I 

2 

Dark  freestone, 

2 

0 

8 

White  bands, 

] 

1 

5 

White  freestone, 

1 

1 

1 

Gray  bands. 

0 

1 

9 

Bands, 

0 

4 

1 

Soft  blaes  with  coal,i^ 

0 

1 

10 

Blaes  with  bands. 

.  0 

4 

0 

Freestone, 

2 

3 

10 

Dark  blaes. 

0 

2 

6 

Bands, 

0 

2 

5 

Bands, 

1 

1 

4 

Plavd  blaes, 

0 

1 

6 

Freestone,  . 

1 

0 

4 

f  Coal  VII. 

0 

4 

2 

Bands, 

0 

2 

1 

<  Grey  stone. 

0 

0 

9 

Blaes, 

0 

1 

0 

C  Coal  VIII. 

0 

1 

0 

White  freestone, 

3 

0 

0 

II. — Civil  History. 
Literary  Production. — A  rare  and  very  curious  work,  "  Com- 
prehending a  Chronicle  of  the  most  remarkable  events  in  Scot- 
land, particularly  in  Fife,  from  1649  to  1671,  and  containing  va- 


378 


FIFESHIRE 


luable  genealogical  notices  of  almost  every  faniHy  of  note  in  this 
part  of  the  country,"  has  been  generally  ascribed  to  a  Mr  John 
Lamont,  proprietor  of  Easter  Newton  in  this  parish.  The  work 
was  first  inibhshed  in  1810,  by  the  late  Mr  Constable,  under  the 
title  of  "  The  Chronicle  of  Fife."  Another  edition  was  printed 
at  Edinburgh  in  1830,  under  the  title  of  "  The  Diary  of  Mr  John 
Lamont  of  Newton."  In  the  prefatory  notice  to  this  second  edi- 
tion, doubts  are  expressed  as  to  whether  the  author  of  the  Diary 
"  possessed  the  small  property  of  Newton,  in  the  parish  of  Ken- 
noway,"  as  Mr  Constable  had  stated,  and  as  has  generally  been 
supposed  :  and  we  are  sorry  to  say,  as  detracting  from  the  little  li- 
terary fame,  to  which  the  parish,  through  this  channel,  might  be 
conceived  to  be  entirtled,  that,  on  instituting  an  inquiry  into  the 
matter,  by  a  careful  perusal  of  the  kirk-session  records,  and  by  re- 
ference to  the  inventory  of  the  titles  of  Easter  Newton,  now  the 
property  of  Miss  Balfour  of  Kingsdale,  the  doubts  that  have  been 
entertained  are  too  well  founded.  * 

Land-owners, — The  chief  land-owners  are,  Mrs  D.  Bethune, 
of  Balfour,  who  is  proprietor  of  the  lands  of  Kennoway  and  Trea- 
ton ;  Miss  Lundin,  proprietor  of  Auchtermairnie  and  Gallovvhill ; 
General  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  proprietor  of  Lalathan  and  Dal- 
guinch  ;  Miss  Balfour,  proprietor  of  Kingsdale  ;  C.  M.  Christie, 
Esq.  of  Durie,  proprietor  of  Drummaird  ;  Miss  Wallace,  proprie- 
tor of  Newton  Hall ;  J.  B.  Fernie,  Esq.  proprietor  of  Kilmux  ; 
Mrs  Paston  of  Barnslee,  proprietor  of  the  lands  of  Brunton  ;  Mr 

*  Through  the  kindness  of  Messrs  Stevenson  and  Yule,  W.  S.  Edinburgh,  a 
friend  to  whom  we  applied  was  permitted  to  inspect  the  inventory  of  the  titles  of  East- 
er Newton  ;  and  we  learn  from  him,  that  the  first  writ  in  this  inventory  is  a  charter 
of  Adjudication  and  Novodamus,  by  James  Law  of  Urunton  (the  superior  of  Easter 
Newton )  of  those  lands,  to  John  Lamont,  skipper  in  Largo,  who  took  infeftnient 
thereon,  and  recorded  the  same  in  the  general  Record,  1st  October  and  2(jth  Novem- 
ber 1695.  This  was  evidently  the  first  proprietor  of  Easter  Newton  of  the  name  of 
Lamont,  as  the  former  owner  of  the  lands  was  Euphemia  Durie,  widow  of  the  Rev. 
Robert  Mercer,  minister  of  Kennoway.  The  next  proprietor  after  the  said  John 
Lamont,  in  the  course  of  the  progress,  is  James  Lamont,  his  eldest  son. 

Now  that  John  Lamont.  who  thus  first  became  proprietor  of  Easter  Newton  in 
169.5,  and  was  succeeded  in  the  property  hy  his  son,  James  Lamont,  could  not  be  the 
author  of  a  Diary  which  had  commenced,  if  not  earlier,  at  least  in  1649,  is  evident 
from  the  particulars  which  follow.  In  the  register  of  rnarriages  and  births  of  this 
parish,  the  marriage  of  John  Lamont  of  Newton  to  Mary  Lundin  is  recorded  in 
1697  ;  and  again  the  marriage  of  John  Lamont  of  Newton  Easter  to  Margaret  Wat- 
son, is  recorded  in  1698;  subsequently,  the  baptisms  of  eight  children,  the  fruit  of 
this  second  marriage,  are  recorded,  the  youngest  named  Robert  being  baptised  on 
the  loth  January  1715  ;  and  so  late  as  in  M'.VA,  a  silver  communion  cup,  as  the  in- 
scription on  it  bears,  was  presented  to  the  parish  of  Scoonie,  by  Mr  John  Lamont  of 
Newton. 

A  comparison  of  the  dates  must  satisfy  every  one  that  John  Lamont,  author  of  the 
Diary,  conld  not  be  the  person  of  the  same  name  who  was  proprietor  of  Easter  New- 
ton in  this  parish. 


KENNOWAY. 


379 


Ballingall,  proprietor  of  Balnkirk  ;  Patrick  Wright,  Esq.  proprie- 
tor of  Hal  fields  ;  George  Forbes,  Esq.  proprietor  of  Balgrie ;  John 
Lawson,  Esq.  of  Cavriston,  &c. 

Parochial  Register. —  The  date  of  the  earliest  entry  in  the  pa- 
rochial register,  is  supposed  to  be  in  1 634.  The  figures  after  anno 
at  the  top  of  the  page  have  been  removed  through  decay  of  the 
paper ;  but  an  entry,  about  half  way  down  the  same  page,  bearing 
the  date  1635,  is  perfectly  distinct.  After  this,  on  a  subsequent 
page,  comes  July  1638  ;  and  though  the  book  in  which  these  dates 
are  found,  is  not  in  a  state  of  very  good  preservation,  yet  the  details 
of  the  transactions  of  the  kirk-session,  given  with  great  minuteness, 
and  often  showing  an  extreme  degree  of  vigilance  and  rigour  in  the 
exercise  of  authority,  may  be  gathered  from  the  last-mentioned 
date,  v\ith  few,  if  any  exceptions,  continuously  down  to  December 
1675.  From  this  time,  however,  to  1690,  a  period  of  about  fif- 
teen years,  there  is  an  entire  blank  ;  and  the  same  thing'occurs  be- 
tween 1755  and  1761.  From  this  last  date,  up  to  the~  present 
time,  the  records  are  entire. 

What  could  have  occasioned  the  blanks  above  referred  to,  it  is 
impossible  to  say  determinately  :  but  the  probability  is,  that  the 
minutes  had  been  originally  kept,  and  that  the  books  which  con- 
tained them  have  been  lost :  for  the  volumes  preserved  are  filled 
with  minutes  of  transactions  in  regular  succession,  and  the  blanks 
occur  in  both  cases  between  the  conclusion  of  one  volume  and  the 
commencement  of  another. 

Mansion-Houses. — The  only  mansion  houses  in  the  parish _^ are 
those  of  Auchtermairnie,  Kingsdale,  and  Newton  Hall ;  of  which 
the  two  last-mentioned  are  modern  buildings ;  and  the  materials 
employed  in  their  construction  were  brought  from  neighbouring 
parishes. 

HI. — Population. 

In  the  former  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish,  written  in  1793, 
it  is  remarked,  that  the  number  of  the  people  and  houses  seems  to 
have  been  nearly  the  same  for  centuries ;  and  in  regard^^to  the  vil- 
lage of  Kennoway,  containing  about  one-half  of  the  whole  inhabi- 
tants, it  is  observed,  that  "  very  few  houses  were^known  to  have 
been  built  on  a  new  foundation."  The  population  of  the  parish 
at  that  time,  seems  to  have  amounted  to  nearly  1300. 

Within  the  last  forty  years,  however,  the  village  and^  parish,  re- 
taining nearly  the  same  relative  proportion  in  point  of  numbers, 
have  made  a  very  considerable  increase  of  their  population.    In  the 


380 


FIFESHIU  K. 


village  many  new  feus  on  ninety-nine  years  leases  have  been  obtain- 
ed and  built  on,  principally  along  a  new  section  of  the  line  of  road 
leading  this  way  from  Kirkcaldy  to  Cupar  : — and  in  other  parts  of 
the  parish,  the  number  of  dwelling-houses  has  been  gradually  en- 
larged, chiefly  in  the  same  way. 

The  increase  of  population  adverted  to  has  been  owing  prin- 
cipally, it  is  presumed,  to  the  gradually  improving  condition  of  this 
part  of  the  country  in  general ;  and  may,  perhaps,  be  in  some 
measure  assigned  to  the  establishment  and  growing  prosperity  of 
several  manufactories  in  the  near  neighbourhood.  A  number  of 
individuals  find  constant  vi^ork  at  Cameron  Distillery,  and  the  Haugh 
Spinning-mill,  which  are  both  m  Markinch  parish  ;  and  the  exten- 
sive manufacture  of  linens  carried  on,  by  wealthy  individuals  and 
companies,  in  most  of  the  surrounding  district,  supplies  the  weavers, 
of  whom  there  are  a  great  many  here,  with  regular  employment. 

The  amount  of  population  at  each  census,  taken  at  different  pe- 
riods under  the  direction  of  Parliament,  is  as  follows  : 

In  the  year  ]  801,  .1466 

1811,  .  J517 

1821,  .  1649 

1831,  .       1721  • 

It  is  worthy  of  notice  that,  at  the  time  of  this  last  census,  the 
number  of  males  exceeded  that  of  females  by  9 ;  there  being  of 
the  former  865,  and  of  the  latter  856. 

Of  the  population  residing  in  villages,  there  were  at  the  same 
time  in  that  of  Kennoway,  862  ;  in  that  of  Star,  232  ;  and  in  that 
of  Baneton,  125 ;  making  in  all  1219 ;  and  in  the  country  there 
were  502. 

The  average  of  baptisms  for  these  last  five  years  may  be  stated  at  .  45 

deaths,  .  .    •       .  .  .  .29 

marriages,  .  ...  .  14 

The  number  of  families  in  the  parish  at  last  census  was,  .  .  409 

The  average  number  of  individuals  in  each  family  was,  .  .  4^ 

Number  of  families  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  .  .  110 

trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,  158 
All  others,  ........  141 

Number  of  professional  or  other  educated  men  is,  .  .  .  7 

The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50 
and  upwards,  is  10,  of  whom  only  three  are  at  present  resident  in 
the  parish. 

•  This  number  of  1721,  ought  to  have  been  increased,  we  presume  to  think,  by 
234,  the  amount  of  population  on  the  lands  of  Dalguinch,  &c.,  in  the  west  end  of 
the  parish,  which  are  an  annexation  qnaud  sacra  to  Markinch.  The  census  of  popu- 
lation by  order  of  Government  is  unquestionably  a  purely  civil  matter  ;  and,  there- 
fore, the  whole  of  the  inhal)itants  of  the  parish  quoad  civi/io,  ought  to  have  been  stated  : 
—the  more  especially  as  the  population  on  the  lands  of  Duniface,  in  IMatkinch  ])a- 
rish,  which  are  an  annexation  quoad  sacra  to  Kennoway,  was  also  included  in  the 
Markinch  list.s. 


KENNOWAY. 


381 


Of  fatuous  individuals  there  are  4  ;  of  blind,  2  ;  and  of  deaf  and 
dumb,  7.  Of  the  last  mentioned  class,  5  belong  to  the  same  fa- 
mily, viz.  two  sons  and  three  daughters.  The  family,  in  all,  con- 
sists of  three  sons  and  four  daughters,  all  of  whom  are  of  adult  age. 

Illegitimate  births  in  the  course  of  the  last  three  years,  13. 

Character  of  the  People. — The  people,  in  their  general  habits, 
are  industrious,  cleanly,  and  economical ;  and  their  circumstan- 
ces are,  for  the  most  part,  comfortable.  In  behaviour,  the  great 
bulk  of  them  are  worthy  of  commendation,  as  being  sober,  peace- 
able, decorous,  and  upright.  Some  few  exceptions  have,  no 
doubt,  always  existed  ;  and  these  have  of  late  years,  it  is  to  be  fear- 
ed, been  very  considerably  increased.  Drunken  brawls,  and  acts  of 
wanton  mischief,  committed  during  the  night  by  persons  under  the 
excitement  of  spirituous  liquors,  have,  for  a  few  years  past,  been 
frequent  and  outrageous  beyond  all  former  precedent  in  the  history 
of  the  place  ;  and  at  this  moment,  a  general  movement  is  making 
by  the  respectable  part  of  the  community,  to  put  an  end,  if  pos- 
sible, to  such  things,  by  having  the  perpetrators  of  them  uniform- 
ly prosecuted  and  punished  ; — to  take  steps  towards  which,  indivi- 
duals who  have  been  aggrieved  have  hitherto  felt  a  great  reluct- 
ance. The  grand  remedy,  if  it  could  be  applied,  would  be  to  lay 
a  restriction  on  the  improper  use  of  ardent  spirits.  Drunkenness 
is  certainly  the  prevailing  vice  amongst  us ;  and  is  the  originator, 
or  at  least  inciting  cause,  to  almost  every  mischief.  Imprisonment 
for  violent  assault  under  its  influence  has  of  late  been  in  two  in- 
stances inflicted.. 

"  A  considerable  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  parish," 
says  a  discerningand  impartial  observer,  who  has  livedlong  amongst 
them,  the  Rev.  Dr  Fraser,  "  appear  to  me  to  discover  their  own 
share  of  Scottish  acuteness  and  intelligence.  I  have  often  seen 
evidence  also  of  their  readiness  to  assist  each  other  ;  particularly 
by  personal  service,  in  times  of  affliction." 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture.— The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish,  standard  im- 
perial measure,  may  be  stated  at  3750.  Of  these,  3470  are  under 
the  plough ;  30  have  never  been  cultivated,  remaining  constantly 
waste  or  in  pasture ;  and  250  are  under  wood.  Larch  and  Scotch 
firs  are  the  kinds  of  trees  that  have  generally  been  planted  ;  but 
enough  of  hard-wood  of  various  kinds  has  been  here  and  there  in- 
terspersed, to  prove  by  its  healthy  and  vigorous  growth  that  the 
soil  is  congenial  to  its  produce. 


382 


FIFESHIRK. 


Rent  of  Land. — The  rent  of  land  varies  from  15s.  to  L.  3.  The 
average  may  amount  to  L.  1,  10s.  per  imperial  acre.  The  ave- 
rage rent  of  grazing  an  ox  or  cow  is  about  L,  3.  Till  of  late, 
there  were  few  or  no  sheep  in  the  parish ;  but  Mr  Robert  Ballin- 
gall,  an  intelligent  and  enterprising  farmer,  who  is  tenant  both  of 
Wester  Treaton  and  of  Newton  of  Kingsdale,  has,  within  these 
two  years,  introduced  them,  and  has  at  present  a  flock  of  between 
13  and  14  scores. 

Wages. — The  wages  of  the  best  day-labourers,  until  about  six 
months  ago,  when  they  were  considerably  raised,  had  continued 
for  eight  or  ten  years  past,  both  in  winter  and  summer,  at  Is.  4d. 
a  day.  Masons'  and  wrights'  wages,  during  the  same  period,  va- 
ried from  l'2s.  to  14s.  a  week,  in  summer,  and  from  10s.  to  lis. 
in  winter.  The  wages  of  farm-servants  have  continued,  for  a  long 
time,  very  stationary.  Married  men  of  this  description  receive  from 
L.  9  to  L.  10  in  money,  6^  bolls  of  meal,  a  pint  of  milk  a  day,  as 
it  comes  from  the  cow,  8  bolls  of  potatoes,  a  free  house  and  gar- 
den, and  coals  driven.  Young  or  unmarried  men  receive  from 
L.  9  to  L.  1 1  in  money ;  and  get  their  meals  in  the  farm-house. 
When  these  latter  are  in  a  bothie,  they  receive  6|  bolls  of  meal, 
and  a  pint  of  sweet  milk  a  day.  Women  employed  in  farm-work 
receive  from  7d.  to  8d.  per  day  of  nine  hours. 

The  cattle  reared  in  the  parish  are  generally  the  native  breed 
of  the  county.  The  chief  characteristics  of  the  Fife  breed  are 
their  being  mostly  all  black,  with  white  horns,  rather  long  in  the 
legs,  long  and  straight  in  the  back,  with  broad  hooks ;  their  hav- 
ing a  fine  silky  skin,  and  prominent  eyes.  They  are  generally 
kindly  feeders ;  and  are  much  esteemed  by  the  butcher  for  the 
excellent  quality  of  the  beef,  as  well  as  for  the  great  quantity  of 
tallow  to  the  size  of  the  carcase.  The  cows  are  for  the  most  part 
profitable  milkers;  producing  a  great  quantity  of  butter  from  the 
milk. 

Some  attempts  have  been  made  to  improve  the  Fife  breed  by 
crossing  the  cow  with  a  Teeswater  bull.  The  oflspring  of  this 
cross  are  nearly  as  valuable  at  three  years  old,  as  the  pure  Fife 
breed  is  at  four.  They  are  more  easily  fattened,  and  when  kept  till 
five  years  old,  they  are  as  heavy  as  the  pure  Teeswater  breed  at 
the  same  age. 

The  crops  generally  cultivated  are  wheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes, 
and  turnip,  with  a  small  proportion  of  beans.    The  rotations  com- 

3 


KENNOWAY 


383 


monly  observed  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Upon 
the  stronger  soils,  the  following  are  practised :  Summer  fallow, 
wheat,  beans,  barley,  hay,  oats.  Summer  fallow  or  potatoes, 
wheat,  hay,  pasture,  oats.  Summer  fallow,  wheat,  barley,  hay, 
oats. 

Upon  the  lighter  soils,  the  following  are  in  use :  viz.  turnips  or 
potatoes,  barley  or  wheat,  hay,  pasture,  oats.  Turnips  or  potatoes, 
barley  or  wheat,  pasture,  pasture,  oats. 

The  high  prices  during  (he  late  war  gave  a  stimulus  to  the  im- 
provement of  the  soil ;  and  at  this  day,  the  exertions  of  the  tenan- 
try have  by  no  means  slackened.  Although  suffering  much,  as 
they  have  done  for  a  number  of  years  past,  from  the  very  low  state 
of  the  market,  yet  it  appears  as  if  their  utmost  efforts  have  been 
used  to  raise  an  increased  quantity  of  produce,  so  as  to  indemnify 
themselves  for  the  depression  of  price.  By  the  improvements  that 
have  been  thus  introduced,  the  fertility  of  the  soil  has  been  much  in- 
creased. It  can  safely  be  averred,  that  now  a  fourth  more  pro- 
duce is  raised  from  the  soil  than  was  obtained  twenty  years  ago. 
This  has  been  chiefly  brought  about  by  improved  rotations  of  crop- 
ping, by  draining  and  liming,  and  by  the  use  of  artificial  manures, 
such  as  ground  bones  and  rape  dust. 

The  drainage  of  the  soil,  hitherto,  has  been  accomplished  in 
most  cases  by  deep  drains  cut  across  the  field  at  the  top  of  the 
spring;  but  a  new  system  has  now  been  put  into  practice,  which, 
if  properly  executed  upon  that  portion  of  the  parish  which  lies  on 
a  retentive  sub-soil,  will  very  much  increase  its  value,  and  render 
it  fit  to  carry  all  kinds  of  green  crops.  This  new  system,  which 
is  called  the  frequent-drain  system,  has  been  borrowed  from  Mr 
Smith  of  Deanston.  It  is  executed  by  cutting  small  drains  up  every 
six  or  every  twelve  ell  furrow,  as  occasion  requires,  from  two  and  a- 
half  to  three  feet  deep,  with  small  spades  used  for  the  purpose.  At 
the  top,  the  drains  are  of  the  width  of  a  common  spade  ;  and  at  the 
bottom,  the  small  spade  is  used  to  cut  them  out  four  inches  wide ; 
and  a  scoop  finishes  the  process,  by  clearing  out  the  loose  earth  at 
the  bottom.  The  drains  are,  after  this,  filled  to  within  eighteen  inches 
of  the  surface,  with  stones  broken  to  the  size  of  road-metal ;  and 
these  stones  are  then  covered  with  a  turf.  After  the  field  has  been 
gone  over  with  these  drains,  it  is  ploughed  by  a  trenching  skeleton 
plough,  sixteen  inches  deep,— which  opens  the  hard  sub  -soil  below, 
and  allows  the  water  to  percolate  to  the  drains,  so  that  the  land  is 
rendered  perfectly  dry. 


384 


1"  IFKSHIRE. 


Farms  are  generally  let  on  lease  for  a  period  of  nineteen  years.  The 
farm -buildings,  with  few  exceptions,  are  by  no  iTieans  commodious. 
In  too  many  instances,  the  occupier  is  fettered  for  want  of  suffici- 
ent accommodation  for  his  bestial.  Most  of  the  land  in  the  parish 
is  inclosed,  but  many  of  the  fences  are  by  no  means  substantial.  \ 
A  very  excellent  and  commodious  steading  was  built  in  1832,  by 
Miss  Balfour  on  her  farm  of  Newton  of  Kingsdale.  It  is  built  of 
freestone,  and  covered  with  slate.  The  thrashing-machine  is  pro- 
pelled by  a  high-pressure  steam-engine  of  six  horse  power.  There 
is  another  thrashing-machine  propelled  by  steam  power  in  the  pa- 
rish, on  the  farm  of  Wester  Treaton,  the  property  of  Mrs  D.  Be- 
thnne  of  Balfour. 

The  greatest  improvement  which  has  recently  been  made  in  the 
parish,  in  agricultural  matters,  was  executed  by  the  late  Captain 
Lundin  on  his  estate  of  Auchtermairnie.  By  cutting  ditches  and 
planting  hedges, — by  draining  and  liming, — by  removing  embank- 
ments and  levelling, — by  planting  and  transplanting  trees, — by 
building  steadings  and  making  roads,  he  nearly  doubled  the  value 
of  his  property  in  the  course  of  sixteen  years.  The  appearance, 
also,  of  his  estate  in  this  time,  was  improved,  perhaps,  more  than 
any  other  part  of  the  county  of  a  similar  extent. 

This  gentleman,  whose  many  virtues,  both  private  and  pubhc, 
will  render  his  memory  long  dear,  died  in  the  prime  of  life,  after 
an  illness  of  only  a  few  days,  in  the  month  of  November  1832. 

Coal  Mine. — It  has  been  mentioned,  that,  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  parish,  coal  at  different  depths  is  found,  and  that  it  has  been 
wrought  with  little  intermission,  for  nearly  fifty  years  past.  The 
seams  which  have  hitherto  been  chiefly  dug  are  those  marked  No. 
III.  and  IV.  in  the  journal  before  given.  These  seams  were  lat- 
terly wrought  on  what  is  called  the  long-wall  method.  After  leav- 
ing sufficient  pillars  at  the  pit-bottom,  every  inch  of  coal,  with  the 
interjacent  bed  of  black  stone,  was  cut  out  progressively  forward, 
and  the  whole  superincumbent  strata  allowed  to  crush  towards  the 
stone  or  rubbish  taken  from  the  coal,  which  was  used  for  gobbing 
the  excavation.  This  coal  was  laid  dry  by  a  day-level  of  350  fa- 
thoms in  length. 

The  seams  above-specified  having  been  nearly  wrought  out,  the 
proprietor  of  the  mine,  J.  B.  Fernie,  Esq.  of  Kilmux,  a  gentleman 
of  great  enterprise,  well  known,  especially,  as  an  eminent  agricul- 
turist, and  to  whom  the  writer  of  this  account  is  indebted  for  the 
information  he  supplies,  both  in  regard  to  coal  and  agricultural 


KKNNOWAV. 


385 


matters, — has  lately  sunk  a  pit  to  a  depth  of  more  than  54  fa- 
thoms, where  coal,  marked  VII.  and  VIII.  in  the  journal,  is  found 
to  the  thickness  of  5  feet  2  inches,  with  an  interjacent  bed  of  grey- 
stone  9  inches  thick.  To  draw  the  water  from  this  pit,  an  engine 
of  forty-seven  horse  power  has  been  erected.  The  coal,  which 
has  now  been  wrought  for  several  months,  is  found  to  be  of  good 
quality,  and  it-is  believed  that  the  field  is  extensive.  There  are 
at  present  between  40  and  50  coUiers  employed. 

Raio  Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  rais- 
ed in  the  parish  may  be  stated  as  under : 

Produce  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  for  food  of  man  and  beast,  L.  9000  0  0 

potatoes  and  turnips,           .           .           .  1000  0  0 

hay  cultivated,           ....  700  0  0 

land  in  pasture,       ....  1 200  0  0 

mines  and  quarries,  chiefly  coal,        .           .  2300  0  0 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce,       L.  14,400    0  0 

Manufactures. — Besides  two  grind ing-mills  for  oats  and  barley 
in  the  parish,  there  is  also  a  lint-mill  for  scutching  flax,  a  plash- 
mill  for  washing  yarn,  and  a  spinning-mill  for  spinning  tow.  The 
three  last-mentioned  are  on  a  very  small  scale,  employing  together 
not  more  than  18  or  20  hands.    All  the  mills  are  driven  by  water. 

At  the  time  when  the  former  Statistical  Account  was  written, 
it  is  remarked,  that  there  was  then,  "  a  considerable  quantity  of 
coarse  linen  made  in  the  parish,  which  was  sold  brown  ;  and  some 
also  of  a  better  quality,  which  was  bleached  and  sold  at  the  sum- 
mer markets  in  the  neighbourhood."  This  species  of  goods  was 
commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Silesias,  and  there  were  not  a 
few  individuals  in  this  place  who,  in  a  small  way,  were  engaged  in 
the  manufacture  of  them.  The  trade  was  for  a  long  time  brisk 
and  profitable,  but  it  entirely  failed  on  the  introduction  of  mill- 
spinning,  through  the  consequent  great  reduction  on  the  price  of 
manufactured  goods. 

There  are  still  a  great  many  weavers  in  the  parish,  not  fewer 
than  300  male  and  female,  connected  with  whom,  at  least  150 
hands  more,  find  employment  as  winders.  But  the  business  now 
is  all  transacted  by  agencies,  on  account  of  wealthy  manuftictur- 
ing  companies  or  individuals  in  the  surrounding  district.  There 
are  none  in  this  parish. 

The  species  of  goods  now  manufactured  are  dowlas  sheetings 
of  various  widths,  from  three  yards  and  under,  Tweels,  and  a  few 
diapers  and  Darlingtons.  The  quality  varies  from  700  to  1000 
dowlas.     The  number  of  spindles  woven  in  a  year  may  be  stated 

FIFE.  B  b 


386 


FIFES  II I  HE. 


at  68,000  ;  and  the  average  wage  of  each  weaver  at  7s.  a  week  : — 
but  a  good  and  dihgent  worker  will,  without  difficulty,  make  twice 
that  Sinn. 

There  are  not  fewer  than  69  hands  employed  as  shoemakers 
in  the  parish.  The  produce  of  their  joint  labour  is  of  course 
much  more  than  is  requisite  for  meeting  the  wants  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood ;  and  the  surplus  is,  for  the  most  part,  carried  to  the  ad- 
jacent market-towns,  chiefly  to  Dundee,  to  supply  the  shoe-shops. 
A  small  proportion  is  also  disposed  of  at  the  principal  fairs  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

Reed  Society. — The  operative  weavers  of  Kennoway,  or  at  least 
the  great  majority  of  them,  sensible  of  the  advantages  that  might 
be  derived  from  having  the  use  of  an  extensive  and  proper  assort- 
ment of  reeds  ;  after  having  been,  for  a  number  of  years,  members 
of  a  society  in  the  neighbourhood,  instituted  for  promoting  this 
object — about  three  years  ago  formed  themselves  into  an  associa- 
tion for  the  same  purpose,  denominated  the  "  Kennoway  Reed 
Societ}'."  The  sole  object  of  this  society  is  to  serve  its  members 
with  reeds  of  any  given  order  and  breadth.  It  is  open  at  all  times 
for  the  admission  of  workmen  properly  qualified  and  recommend- 
ed, who  are  of  good  character,  and  living  within  two  miles  of  the 
village  of  Kennoway.  The  entry-money  is  3s.  6d.  for  one  share, 
and  a  member  may  hold  as  many  shares  as  he  pleases.  A  certain 
rate  is  paid  for  the  use  of  each  reed,  according  to  the  description 
it  is  of,  and  according  to  the  amount  of  spindles  it  is  employed  in 
the  weaving  of. 

This  society  is  found  to  be  of  great  benefit  to  its  members.  Of 
these,  there  are  122,  holding  in  all  199  shares.  The  number  of 
reeds  which  the  society  is  possessed  of,  is  560  ;  the  average  price 
of  each  of  which,  when  new,  might  be  5s. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Town. — There  are  no  market-towns  in  the  parish,  but 
the  access  to  Kirkcaldy  and  Cupar  is  easy,  each  being  about  nine 
miles  distant;  the  former  in  a  south-westerly,  and  the  latter  in  a 
north-easterly  direction.  The  means  of  communication,  in  every 
part  of  the  parish,  are  easy,  the  roads  being  in  general  good.  Of 
these,  there  are  about  two  miles  of  turnpike. 

Ecclesiastical  State. —  The  situation  of  the  parish  church,  in  the 
village  of  Kennoway,  renders  it  convenient  for  by  far  the  greater 
part  of  the  population  ;  there  being  in  that  village,  and  within  the 
compass  of  about  half  a  mile  around  it,  upwards  of  1100  inhabi- 


KENNOWAY. 


387 


tants.  The  distance  of  the  church  from  the  most  remote  extre- 
mities of  the  parish  is  between  two  and  three  miles. 

The  age  of  the  church  must,  from  its  structure,  and  the  height 
to  which  the  surrounding  burying-ground  has  accumulated  above 
its  foundation,  be  very  great;  but  there  are  no  means  of  ascer- 
taining the  exact  period  at  which  it  was  built.  The  lintel  of  a 
door,  which  is  supposed  to  be  of  the  same  date  with  an  addition 
that  had  been  made  to  the  original  edifice,  has  1619  inscribed  on 
it.  The  present  state  of  repair  of  the  church,  however,  notwith- 
standing its  great  age,  is  exceedingly  good.  Perhaps  it  is  to  be 
regretted,  considering  its  size,  as  compared  with  the  population, 
that  it  is  so  good ;  and  that  such  a  sum  as  nearly  L.  200  was  ex- 
pended in  putting  it  into  its  present  comfortable  state,  so  lately 
as  in  the  summer  of  1832.  The  number  of  sittings  in  it  is  463 ; 
while  the  number  of  families  belonffinof  to  the  Estabhshment  in  the 
parish  is  288;  and  that  of  individuals  of  all  ages  1027.  The 
number  of  names  on  the  communion  roll  at  present  is  507,  from 
which,  if  28  be  deducted  for  the  old  and  infirm,  who  cannot  attend 
church,  there  is  left  still  the  number  479.  This  exceeds  the  num- 
ber of  sittings  in  the  church  by  16.    There  are  no  free  sittings. 

An  excellent  and  commodious  new  manse,  with  offices  and  gar- 
den wall,  was  built  in  1833,  on  a  new  and  very  eligible  site,  about 
five  minutes  walk  from  the  church.  The  glebe  consists  of  about 
7  acres,  and  may  be  valued  at  L.  20  yearly.  The  stipend,  which 
was  augmented  in  1832,  amounts  to  16  chalders,  with  L.  10  for 
communion  elements. 

There  are  two  Seceding  congregations  in  the  parish,  the  places 
of  worship  of  which  are  both  also  in  the  village  of  Kennoway. 
An  unpopular  settlement  about  the  middle  of  last  century  gave 
occasion  to  the  erection  of  the  elder  of  these  two  congregations, 
which  is  connected  with  the  United  Associate  Secession  Synod. 
The  present  minister  of  this  congregation,  who  was  ordained  to  his 
charge  upwards  of  forty-two  years  ago,  is  the  learned  and  pious 
Rev.  Donald  Eraser,  D.  D.,  well  known  as  the  biographer  of  the 
Erskines,  two  of  the  fathers  of  the  Secession,  and  as  the  author 
of  other  popular  works.  In  his  congregation,  by  particulars  which 
he  kindly  furnished  for  this  account,  the  number  of  members  is 
428;  besides  whom,  there  are  of  the  young  with  a  few  other  hear- 
ers about  290.  It  is  to  be  noticed,  however,  that  about  one-third 
«f  the  whole  reside  within  the  bounds  of  other  parishes.  The 


388 


FIFF.SHIUK. 


amount  of  stipend  is  L.  120,  with  a  comfortable  clwelling-house 
and  garden. 

The  other  Seceding  congregation  in  the  parish,  which  is  in 
connexion  with  the  Original  Burgher  Synod,  has  been  in  existence 
smce  1800.  The  number  of  its  members  is  under  200,  of  whom 
about  one-half  reside  within  the  parish.  This  congregation  is  at 
present  without  a  minister ;  but  the  stipend  of  the  one  who  lately 
left  them  for  another  situation  was  . L.  75,  with  a  dwelling-house 
and  small  garden.  • 

There  are,  besides  those  attached  to  these  two  congregations 
of  Seceders,  a  very  few  individuals  within  the  parish,  belonging  to 
the  Relief  and  Independent  denominations.  The  proportion 
which  the  whole  number  of  Seceders  and  Dissenters  taken  together, 
bears  to  the  number  of  those  attached  to  the  Established  Church, 
is  very  nearly  as  19  to  23.  Among  all  denominations,  the  places 
of  worship  are  in  general  well  attended. 

Societies  for  Religious  Purposes. — A  society,  denominated  the 
Kennoway  Female  Bible  and  Missionary  Association,  was  formed 
here  in  1814;  and  another,  styled  the  Kennoway  Bible  and  Mis- 
sionary Association,  was  instituted  in  1819.  Their  annual  pro- 
ceeds average  together  rather  more  than  L.  30.  All  denomina- 
tions concur  in  these  institutions. 

Education. — Besides  the  Parochial  School,  which  is  attended 
on  an  average  by  120  scholars,  and  is  most  efficiently  taught, 
there  are  two  unendowed  schools  in  the  parish,  one  of  which  is  a 
female  one  :— and  the  children  in  the  village  of  Star,  in  the  West 
end  of  the  parish,  enjoy  the  benefit  of  a  school  which  is  taught 
just  beyond  the  boundary.  There  are  thus  very  few  who  can  be 
said  to  be  inconveniently  situated  with  respect  to  the  means  of 
education.  The  parochial  teacher  has  the  maximum  salary,  with 
the  legal  accommodations.  The  amount  of  his  school  fees  may 
be  between  L.  30  and  L.  40. 

The  list  of  fees  for  the  parochial  school  is  as  under  :  English 
reading,  2s.  6d.  per  quarter ;  reading  and  writing,  3s.  per  do. ; 
arithmetic,  4s. ;  Latin  and  other  branches,  5s. 

Library. —  The  only  circulating  library  in  the  parish,  is  a  juve- 
nile one  connected  with  the  Sabbath  schools.  It  contains  about 
400  volumes,  which  are  mostly  very  small. 

Savings  Bank. — A  savings  bank  was  instituted  for  the  parish 
and  its  vicinity  in  September  1834;  the  business  of  which  has 
ever  since  been  conducted  principally  by  the  writer  of  this  Ac- 


KKNNOWAY. 


389 


count.  The  amount  of  sums  under  L.  10,  deposited  up  till  this 
date,  is  L.  420  ;  and  the  number  of  depositors  at  present  is  83. 
Since  the  bank  was  opened,  sixteen  sums  of  L.  10  each,  amount- 
ing in  all  to  L.  ]  60,  have  been  removed  at  various  times ;  and  the 
most,  if  not  the  whole  of  them,  lodged  in  other  banks.  The  Na- 
tional Bank  of  Scotland,  at  whose  office  in  Kirkcaldy  the  money 
belonging  to  our  savings'  bank  collectively  is  lodged,  most  gene- 
rously allows  L.  4  per  cent,  interest  on  it;  and  the  same  rate  is 
allowed  to  the  depositors  in  the  savings'  bank  individually ;  the 
interest  in  this  latter  case  being  calculated  for  pounds  only,  omit- 
ting odd  shillings ;  and  for  months,  omitting  odd  days. 

Equitable  Deposit  Society. — A  society  was  begun  in  May  1835, 
entitled  the  Kennoway  Equitable  Weekly  Deposit  Society,  each 
member  of  which  pays  Is.  weekly.  When  a  sufficient  sum  has  in 
this  way  been  collected,  four  shares  of  L,  30  each  are  drawn  by 
ballot,  and  those  receiving  them  give  security  that  they  will  pay 
4  per  cent,  interest  thereon,  in  addition  to  continuing  their  weekly 
payments,  until  such  time  as  all  the  members  shall  have  drawn 
their  shares  respectively.  The  sum  collected  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the  association  to  the  26th  December  1836,  amounted  to 
L.  882,  18s.  2d. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Bunds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
receiving  parochial  aid  is  22 ;  and  the  sum  allotted  to  each  per 
calendar  month  varies  from  2s.  6d.  to  8s.  8d.  The  average  an- 
nual amount  of  contributions,  for  the  last  five  years,  for  the  relief 
of  the  poor,  has  been  L.  77  ;  of  which,  L.  34  have  been  collected 
at  the  church  door;  L.  5  have  come  from  mortcloth  and  marriage 
dues;  and  the  remainder  has  been  obtained  by  voluntary  assess- 
ment of  the  heritors. 

For  a  considerable  number  of  years  past,  a  sum  of  between 
L.  30  and  L.  40  has  been  raised  in  addition  to  the  above,  by  ex- 
traordinary collections  at  the  doors  of  the  church  and  meeting- 
houses, and  by  donations  from  non-resident  heritors,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  distributing  about  new-year  time,  amongst  individuals  and 
families  of  the  poorer  class,  but  who  are  not  generally  on  the 
poor's  roll,  a  quantity  of  coals  and  meal,  and  occasionally  some 
other  little  necessary.  By  help  of  this  fund  also,  for  several  years 
past,  the  spinning  of  flax  has  been  obtained  for  some  of  the  old 
people,  who  can  find  no  other  employment.  Dressed  flax  is  at 
present  kindly  supplied,  as  needed,  by  a  mill  -spinner  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, who  allows  6d.  per  spindle  for  spinning  it.    To  this 


390 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  fund  adds  another  6d.,  so  that  the  spinner  receives  Is.  for 
her  work,  while  the  fund  loses  (id.  on  each  spindle.  The  sum 
earned  in  this  way,  by  even  a  good  spinner,  is  very  small ;  but 
whatever  it  may  amount  to,  it  is  the  fruit  of  labour,  and  it  is  prized 
as  such. 

Fairs. — Two  annual  fairs  are  held  in  the  village  of  Kennoway, 
the  one  in  April,  and  the  other  in  October.  No  business  has  for 
a  lonof  time  been  done  at  them. 

Inns  and  Alehouses. — 'There  are  no  less  than  13  houses  in 
the  parish  licensed  to  sell  spirituous  liquors  and  ales.  If  so 
many  can  make  profits  by  such  a  traffic,  there  is  great  reason 
to  fear,  that  by  far  too  much  money  is  spent  in  them,  and  that  an 
increase  of  intemperance  must  be  the  result.  The  unnecessary 
multiplication  of  such  places  of  resort  is  much  to  be  deprecated ; 
for,  besides  affording  facilities  to  those  who  are  already  addicted 
to  drinking,  it  sets  additional  and  powerful  temptation  to  the  worst 
of  all  vices,  in  the  way  of  those  who  are  sober  and  industrious. 

Fuel. —  Coal  abounds  in  all  the  neighbourhood,  and  after  what 
has  been  already  said  in  regard  to  its  being  found  of  good  quality, 
and  wrought  in  the  parish,  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that 
this  is  the  fuel  universally  used.  At  Balgrie  colliery,  in  the  pa- 
rish, from  which  the  great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  are  supplied, 
it  is  sold  at  present  at  8s.  4d.  per  ton. 

January  1838. 


PARISH  OF  WEMYSS. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKCALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  M'LACHLAN,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name  and  Boundaries. — The  name  of  this  parish  is  of  Gaelic 
origin,  the  word  Weem  or  Wemyss  signifying  a  cave,  manifestly 
in  allusion  to  the  number  of  caves  on  the  sea-shore.  It  is  bound- 
ed by  the  parish  of  Dysart,  on  the  west ;  by  Markinch,  on  the  north 
and  east ;  and  by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  on  the  south.  Its  length 
from  south-west  to  north-east  is  about  6  miles ;  and  its  breadth 
about  I2  :  in  whole,  it  contains  about  9  square  miles. 


WEMYSS. 


391 


Topographical  Appearances. — The  ground  immediately  above 
the  sea-shore  is,  in  some  places,  considerably  elevated,  and  rises 
with  a  gentle  slope  to  the  north,  and  also  to  the  west.  Along  the 
sea-shore,  there  is  a  line  of  rocks  which  extends  a  good  way  into 
the  sea,  even  at  low  water-mark.  The  whole  beach  is  very  rocky, 
and  may  well  be  designated  iron  bound. 

Climate. — The  climate,  upon  the  whole,  may  be  said  to  be  good. 
The  air,  as  might  be  expected,  is,  during  the  winter  months  espe- 
cially, keen  and  bracing,  and  at  all  times  the  temperature  of  the 
atmosphere  is  sensibly  felt  to  be  colder  than  that  of  districts  five  or 
six  miles  up  the  country. 

Alineraloc/y. — This  parish  rests  upon  rocks  which  belong 
wholly  to  the  coal  formation.  From  the  river  Leven,  even  as 
far  west  as  Wemyss  Castle,  the  strata  are  composed  of  dark  red 
sandstone  of  various  degrees  of  hardness,  colour,  and  durability. 
From  Wemyss  Castle,  along  the  shore  and  western  boundary,  there 
are  twelve  workable  seams  of  coal,  of  the  aggregate  thickness  of 
89  feet  5  inches.  The  rocks  between  these  seams  of  coal  are, 
shale,  sandstone,  slate  clay,  and  argillaceous  iron-stone,  in  bands 
and  balls.  These  rocks  alternate  in  beds  of  very  various  thick- 
ness. There  is  also  a  seam  of  yellow  ochre,  but  not  a  particle  of 
limestone ;  neither  is  there  any  greenstone  (or  whin)  belonging 
to  the  strata.  The  shore,  however,  is  thickly  strewed  with  bould- 
ers of  it,  and  the  soil  when  pierced  to  any  depth  abounds  with 
them. 

The  quantity  of  fossil  organic  remains  belonging  to  the  vege- 
table kingdom,  is  immense.  Whole  forests  of  fossil  trees  have 
been  discovered  in  the  beds  of  shale  immediately  above  some  of 
the  coals,  many  of  them  of  the  most  perfect  form.  The  bodies  of 
the  trees  are  always  composed  of  sandstone,  (although  found  in 
shale,)  while  the  bark,  and  sometimes  the  cellular  tissue,  round 
the  pith,  is  composed  of  clear  cherry  coals  ;  and  they  are  found  in 
every  variety  of  size,  form,  and  position.  And  with  regard  to  the 
soils,  they  are  as  various  as  the  rocks  on  which  they  rest,  being 
'  in  some  places  only  a  few  feet  thick,  and  consisting  of  decom- 
posed sandstone,  while  in  others  they  extend  to  a  depth  of  from 
30  to  40  feet,  consisting  of  a  strong  matrix  of  dark-coloured  clay, 
which  is  quite  impervious  to  water. 

Wood. — The  appearance  of  the  parish  within  the  last  forty  years 
has  been  greatly  improved,  in  consequence  of  the  great  number  of 
trees  that  have  been  planted  in  various  quarters  of  it,  and  which 


392 


PIFESHIRE. 


are  in  a  very  thriving  condition,  and  which  sheltefr  and  benefit  the 
crops.  In  tlie  neighbourhood  of  Wemyss  Castle,  tliere  is  a  num- 
ber of  very  old  trees  of  various  kinds,  and  which  have  grown  to  a 
large  size,  clearly  showing  that  when  trees  arc  properly  attended 
to,  they  will  grow  and  prosper  even  near  the  sea-shore. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Plan.— There  is  in  the  possession  of  the  family  of  Wemyss  an 
excellent  map  or  survey  of  the  whole  of  the  parish. 

Land-oimer. —  The  sole  land-owner  of  the  whole  parish  is  Cap- 
tain James  Erskine  Wemyss,  R.  N.,  and  Member  of  Parliament 
for  the  county  of  Fife. 

Eminent  Men. — Under  this  article  may  be  mentioned  Sir  Mi- 
chael Wemyss  of  Wemyss,  who,  along  with  Sir  Michael  Scott  of 
Balweary,  in  the  parish  of  Abbotshall,  were  sent  as  ambassadors 
to  Norway  by  the  Estates  of  the  kingdom  in  the  year  1290,  on  the 
death  of  King  Alexander  III.  to  bring  home  Princess  Margaret, 
grand- daughter  of  the  late  King,  and  undoubted  heiress  of  the 
crown  of  Scotland.  They  went  to  Norway  as  directed,  but  the 
Princess  died  at  Orkney,  on  her  passage  to  Scotland. 

There  is  in  the  Castle  of  Wemyss,  as  a  memorial  of  this  embassy, 
a  large  silver  basin,  which  was  given  by  the  King  of  Norway  to  Sir 
Michael  Wemyss,  and  which  is  now  used  to  hold  the  water  on 
baptismal  occasions. 

The  Rev.  George  Gillespie  also  was  connected  with  this  parish, 
and  was  ordained  minister  of  it  in  April  26,  1618.  He  was  the 
son  of  Mr  John  Gillespie,  who  was  sometime  minister  of  the  gos- 
pel at  Kirkcaldy.  He  was  called  by  way  of  distinction,  "  The 
renowned  Gillespie;"  and  was  the  first  who  was  admitted  by 
a  presbytery  in  that  period,  without  an  acknowledgment  of  the 
bishops.  He  was  one  of  the  four  ministers  who  were  sent  as  com- 
missioners from  the  Church  of  Scotland  to  the  Westminster  As- 
sembly, in  the  year  1643.  ^,In  that  capacity  we  are  told  he  distin- 
guished himself  greatly,  and  showed  that  he  was  a  man  of  great 
talent  and  learning,  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  few  could  equal, 
and  none  surpass  him.  On  his  return  from  Westminster,  he  was 
engaged  in  most  of  the  public  affairs  of  the  church,  imtil  1648, 
when  he  was  chosen  Moderator  of  the  General  Assembly.  Dur- 
ing his  whole  life,  he  was  most  firmly  attached  to  the  great  work 
of  the  Reformation,  and  continued  so  till  his  death. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  register  of  the  records  of  Session 
commences  1645,  and  is  regularly  kept  from  9th  March  1692, 


WRMYSS. 


393 


down  to  the  present  time.  From  26th  August  1689  to  9th  March 
1692,  there  is  a  deficiency,  the  reason  for  which  is  thus  noticed 
in  one  of  the  records :  "  The  reason  why  the  pubhc  regis- 
ter in  this  parish  is  lame  for  that  period,  is,  that  there  was  no 
settled  minister  after  Mr  Ker  was  deposed  by  the  secret  counsell 
in  the  foresaid  month  of  August  1689  untill  Mr  Archibald  Rid- 
dell  was  settled  in  October  169  J  ;"  and  that  during  this  inter- 
val, "  the  register  was  keeped  by  the  Countess  of  Wemyss,  and  not 
delivered  to  the  session  :"  It  is  farther  added  "that  Mr  Ker,  student 
of  Divinity  and  Professor  in  St  Leonard's  College,  St  Andrews, 
was  admitted  minister  of  Wemyss  September  8,  1686,  and  de- 
posed 26th  August  1689,  for  not  reading  the  '  proclamation  and  not 
praying  publicly  for  King  William  and  Queen  Mary.'  "   The  old- 
est register  of  baptisms  begins  in  1660,  and  that  of  contracts  and 
marriages  in  1662.  With  the  exception  already  noticed,  they  are  all 
regularly  and  accurately  kept  from  their  commencement.  The 
number  of  the  whole  is  fourteen  volumes. 

Antiquities.— Vndev  this  article,  we  may  notice  the  remains  of 
two  Popish  Chapels,  the  one  at  Methil-mill;  and  the  other,  a  lit- 
tle beyond  West  Wemyss.  There  are  also  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle,  usually  called  Macduff  ^s  Castle,  situated  a  little  to  the  east 
of  East  Wemyss.  It  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Macduff,  who 
was  created  Earl  of  Fife  about  the  year  1057,  and  on  whom  King 
Malcolm  Canmore  bestowed  some  peculiar  marks  of  regard.  It 
must  have  been  once  a  place  of  great  strength,  judging  from  the 
two  square  towers,  and  a  part  of  the  wall,  that  still  remain.  It  is 
built  on  an  eminence  near  the  sea  shore,  having  a  very  command- 
ing view;  and  th^re  are  few  strangers  who  come  to  this  part  of  the 
country,  without  paying  a  visit  to  the  old  castle. 

The  Castle  of  Wemyss,  too,  the  seat  of  the  family  of  Wemyss, 
deserves  notice.  It  is  a  large  and  magnificent  building.  It  is  si- 
tuated a  little  to  the  east  of  West  Wemyss,  on  a  cliff  between  30 
and  40  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Beyond  West  Wemyss,  is 
the  Chapel  Garden,  so  denominated  from  the  circumstance  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  Chapel  having  been  built  there,  some  of  the  re- 
mams  of  which,  as  already  noticed,  are  still  standing.  Beside  it, 
IS  the  residence  of  Thomas  By  water,  Esq.  factor  on  the  estate. 
The  whole  forms  a  most  delightful  romantic  spot,  the  sight  of  which 
could  not  but  amply  compensate  the  admirer  of  the  picturesque, 
even  although  he  had  gone  a  journey  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  for 
the  sole  purpose  of  visiting  this  terrestrial  paradise. 


FIFESHIRE. 


III. — Population. 

In  1733  the  population  was  3041 
1801,  .  3264 

1811,  .  3691 

1821,  .  4137 

1831,  .  3001 

The  increase  may  be  attributed  to  various  causes. 

The  people,  in  general,  marry  at  an  earlier  period  than  former- 
ly ;  and  this  holds  true  in  a  very  marked  manner  among  the  fish- 
ermen in  Buckhaven.  Besides,  there  is  the  large  manufacturing 
establishment  at  Kirkland,  under  the  firm  of  Neilson  and  Com- 
pany, and  which  has  been  long  in  a  very  thriving  and  flourishing 
condition,  and  which  employs  a  great  many  hands.  And  in  the 
coal  department,  which  has  also  been  extended,  a  good  many 
houses  have  been  lately  built  for  the  accommodation  of  the  col- 
liers, some  of  whom  have  come  from  other  parts  of  the  country. 

The  average  number  of  births  and  baptisms  for  the  last  seven  years,        .  125f 

marriages,           .....  36f 

Number  of  inhabited  houses  in  the  parish,          ....  653 

uninhabited  houses,          .                .                .              .  6 

houses  now  building,           .           •           •           •              •  8 

families,      .          .          .          •          •          •          •  1089 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,              .          .  84 

in  trade,  manufactures,  and  handicraft,  762 

families  not  comprised  in  the  two  preceding  classes,          .  243 

There  is  one  family  of  independent  fortune, — the  family  of 
Wemyss. 

Ages  of  all  persons  in  this  parish  in  June  1831  under  15,  -  2022 

betwixt  15  and  30.  1302 

30  and  50,  1 059 

50  and  70,  488 
upwards  of  70,            .  130 

There  were  in  (1831)  11  persons  between  89  and  90,  and  since 
that  time  2  have  died  upwards  of  90. 

Unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  above  50  years  of  age,        .  63 
women,  including  widows  above  43  years  of  age,  .  212 

Average  number  of  persons  to  each  family,         .....  ^f^JJ- 

Number  of  illegitimate  births  in  the  course  of  the  last  three 
years,  10. 

There  are  1  fatuous,  1  deaf,  and  5  deaf  and  dumb  persons,  in  the  pa- 
rish :  Oof  the  deaf  and  dumb  persons  belong  to  one  family,  and  are  ail 
females.  They  are  grown  up,  and,  considering  their  imperfections, 
they  are  quick  and  intelligent.  The  other  two  are  also  females, 
and  belong  to  one  femily.  They  are  both  young,  the  one  being 
about  two,  the  other  four  years  of  age. 

Habits  and  Character  of  the  People.— OHsite  years,  a  new  acti- 
vity and  a  new  stimulus  pervade  all  classes  of  the  people.    And  I 


WKMYSS. 


395 


have  great  pleasure  in  being  enabled  to  remark,  that  over  the 
length  and  breadth  of  this  large  and  populous  parish,  education 
and  knowledge  have  spread  themselves  among  all  ranks  and  clas- 
ses. The  people  as  a  body  have  long  been  distinguished  for  their 
quietness  and  general  good  conduct ;  and  may  justly  be  said  to  be 
an  industrious,  contented,  decent,  and  church-going  population. 

IV.— Industry. 
Rent  of  Land. — The  rent  of  land  varies  from  L.  1,  10s.  to 
L.  4  per  acre.  Some  farms  are  let  wholly  in  money,  some  at  a 
grain  rent,  and  some  partly  grain  and  partly  money,  according  to 
the  fiars  of  the  county.  The  grazing  of  a  cow  for  the  season  is 
L.  3,  10s. ;  and  for  two  year  olds  and  one  year  olds,  in  the  same  pro- 
portion. 

Eeal  Rent. — The  real  rent  of  this  parish  is  L.  6000. 
Agriculture. — 

The  number  of  Scots  acres  may  be  about  4000 
Under  tillage,  .  .  .  28451 

Uncultivated,  .       .       .       1134^,  of 

which  there  are  in  wood       .        500  acres,  and 

the  remaining  .  .         654^  acres  are  in  Units,  roads, 

villages,  &c. 

Mines. — There  are  four  coal-pits  in  this  parish,  one  ironstone 
pit,  and  one  ochre  pit.  The  Wemyss  coal-pit  employs  140 
men,  24  boys,  and  42  girls.  The  yearly  produce  is  about  40,000 
tons.  The  selling  price  of  the  spHnt  is  8s.  6d.  per  ton.  This  pit  is 
sunk  upon  the  main  seam,  which  is  9  feet  thick,  and  has  been 
wrought  to  the  depth  of  100  yards  below  sea  level,  through  the 
whole  length  of  the  parish,  and  has  been  working  constantly  for 
the  last  two  centuries.  The  next  working  is  the  parrot  or  gas 
coal,  which  is  wrought  level  free,  no  machinery  being  necessary. 
It  employs  about  20  men,  and  is  sold  for  10s.  per  ton.  The 
other  two  pits  are  wrought  exclusively  for  land  sale ;  they  employ 
about  50  men,  20  boys,  and  7  girls.  The  ironstone  working  era- 
ploys  about  35  men  and  3  girls.  The  ochre  pit  is  but  newly 
commenced.  The  whole  number  of  people  employed  in  mining 
and  mining  operations  may  amount  to  300  men,  (170  of  whom 
are  colliers,)  44  boys,  and  52  girls.  Their  operatio  ns,  however, 
require  the  employment  of  many  other  hands,  such  as  smiths, 
Wrights,  masons,  &c.  They  all  receive  their  wages  every  two 
weeks,  the  payment  of  which  is  upwards  of  L.  400. 

There  are  several  very  powerful  engines  employed  in  this  very 
extensive  coal  establishment.    And  it  is  but  justice  to  add,  that 


39G 


FIFESIIIRE 


all  the  recent  improvements  in  mining  machinery  have  been  here 
very  successfully  and  advantageously  introduced  and  applied,  and 
are  all  under  the  very  active  and  efficient  management  and  direc- 
tion of  Mr  David  Landale,  mining  engineer. 

Fisheries. —  This  branch  of  industry  deserves  notice.  The  fish- 
ing station  at  Buckhaven  is  well  known,  and  of  late  years  has 
greatly  increased.  There  are  170  men  employed  in  this  trade, 
and  all  belong  to,  and  reside  in  Buckhaven.  They  have  no  fewer 
than  144  fishing  boats  of  various  dimensions.  Generally  about 
the  beginning  of  July,  they  set  out  to  the  north,  to  Helmsdale, 
Fraserburgh,  and  Wick,  the  great  herring-fishing  stations,  where 
they  stay  for  about  two  months.  It  may  well  be  said,  that  they 
are  a  most  industrious  and  hard-working  class  of  men,  and  are 
truly  entitled,  not  only  to  protection,  but  to  every  countenance  and 
encouragement. 

Value  of  boats  and  nets  belonging  to  Buckhaven. 

Value  of  each      Value  of  nets  belonging 

loot.  io  each  boat.  Total  value. 


First  class,   60  boats,       L.  75    0    0  L.  110    0    0  L.  11,100    0  0 

Second  do.   44    ao.  4l.i    0    0  120    0    0  7,040    0  0 

Third  do.     40    do.  14    0    0  20    0    0  1,360    0  0 


144  Value  of  nets  and  boats        .       T..  19,500    0  0 

It  will  be  seen  by  the  above  statement,  that  the  value  of  the 
nets  belonging  to  the  second  class  of  boats  is  greater  than  that  of 
the  first  class,  because  three  sets  of  nets  are  necessarv  to  the  se- 
cond  class,  while  only  two  are  required  for  the  first  and  third. 

Produce — The  following  contains  a  pretty  correct  statement 
of  the  yearly  raw  produce  of  this  parish. 

Scots  awes. 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  including  peas  and  beans,     -     15454  -  L.  10,545  0  0 

Potatoes  and  turnips,           -           .           -           4l6  -  3,161  0  0 

Hay  and  pasture,           ....      706|  -  -     3,339  0  0 

Flax,          -          .          .          .          .             38  -  -       304  0  0 

Gardens,           -          -          -          -          -       20  -  -       400  0  0 


2725-5       -      L.  17,749    0  0 
Fallow,  -  -  -  .  11  u| 


Under  cultivation,  -  .  .  2845i 


Thinning  of  wood.s,  5(10    0  0 

60  boats  employed  in  the  north  herring  fishery,  > 

44 '  do  Frith  of  Forth  do.*  S  '  '  ^  " 

*  About  twenty  years  ago,  the  Frith  of  Forth  herring  fishing  was  very  extensive, 
and  paid  well ;  but  of  late  years,  it  has  fallen  much  oft',  and  for  two  or  "three  years 
back,  it  has  been  a  total  failure. 

4 


WEMYSS. 


397 


40  boats  employed  throughout  the  year  in  fishing  liaddock,  cod,  and 

all  other  kinds  of  white  fish  caught  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,    -       L.   4160    0  0 

L.  26,909    0  ~0 

Salt,  -  .  .  .  -  .  .  470    0  0 

Coal  and  ironstone,  .  -  .  .  .  20,000    0  0 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce,       -       L.  47,379    0  0 

Ma?mfactu?'es. — The  principal  manufacture  is  that  of  hand-loom 
weaving,  in  which  both  men  and  women  are  employed.  In  the 
large  manufacturing  establishment  at  Kirkland,  under  the  firm  of 
Neilson  and  Company,  there  are  109  persons  engaged  in  flax- 
dressing;  283  employed  at  the  spinning-mill;  48 in  the  bleaching 
department;  and  241  in  the  cloth  manufactory;  in  all,  681,  in- 
cluding men  and  women,  boys  and  girls.  This  large  and  exten- 
sive work  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is,  for  plan,  and  order  and  re- 
gularity, a  model  for  any  similar  erection.  As  far  as  the  health 
and  morals  of  the  people  are  concerned,  it  is  conducted  in  the 
best  possible  manner.  It  is  not  only  the  wish  of  the  proprietors 
that  the  work  people's  children  should  be  properly  educated,  but 
they  are  really  and  truly  so,  in  all  the  common  branches ;  and 
particular  attention  is  also  paid  to  their  instruction  in  the  great 
principles  of  Christianity,  by  a  well-qualified  and  efficient  teacher. 
And  fewer  applications  for  parochial  relief  have  come  from  the 
people  employed  at  this  work,  than  from  any  other  quarter  of  the 
parish. 

The  extensive  works  now  noticed  consume  annually  1000  tons 
flax  and  hemp,  from  which  is  spun  280,000  spindles  of  flax,  tow, 
and  hemp  yarns,  two-thirds  of  which  are  made  into  canvas,  sheet- 
ing, dowlas,  ducks,  sacking,  and  other  fabrics ;  and  about  one- 
third  of  the  yarn  is  sold.  The  yearly  amount  of  wages  may  be 
about  L.  17,000. 

There  are  four  considerable  manufacturers  in  East  Wemyss, 
and  one  in  Buckhaven,  who,  it  is  computed,  consume  annually 
242,320  spindles,  which  are  made  into  ducks,  dowlas,  and  sheet- 
ing, amounting  to  1,202,625  yards  of  cloth  for  the  home  and 
foreign  market.  Weavers'  wages,  including  winding,  may  amount 
to  L.  10,000  annually. 

East  Wemyss  was  long  distinguished  for  the  manutkcture  of 
Imen,  which  has,  for  some  time  past,  been  superseded  by  those 
above-mentioned . 

Salt— Since  the  tax  on  salt  was  taken  off,  the  number  of  saltpans 
has  been  greatly  reduced.    At  Methil,  where  there  were  formerly 


398 


FIFKSIIIUE. 


nine,  there  are  now  none  ;  and  at  West  Wemyss,  where  there  were 
formerly  seven,  there  are  only  two,  and  at  present  one  of  them  is 
not  working.  6200  bushels  may  be  about  the  annual  average  of 
salt  made  for  the  last  three  years,  the  average  annual  value  of 
which  may  be  about  L.  470.  This  forms  at  once  a  very  striking 
contrast  to  the  quantity  of  salt  made  in  this  parish,  previous  to  the 
abolition  of  the  salt  duties ;— for  in  1818,  1819,  and  1820,  the 
annual  average  sales  of  salt  made  at  west  Wemyss  and  Methil,  was 
.50,400  bushels.  The  salt  made  here  is  excellent,  and  obtains  a 
ready  market. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Towns. — There  are  no  market-towns,  properly  so  cal- 
led, in  the  parish.  The  nearest  is  Kirkcaldy,  which  is  about  six 
miles  from  the  parish  church. 

Villages. — There  are  seven  villages,  which  are  named  as  under  : 
1.  East  Wemyss,  in  which  is  the  parish  church  ;  2.  West  Wemyss; 
3.  Buckhaven;  4.  Methil;  5.  Kirkland ;  6.  West  Coaltown ; 
7.  East  Coaltown.  The  four  first  are  built  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
are  rather  more  than  a  mile  from  each  other.  West  Wemyss  is 
a  burgh  of  barony,  having  for  its  management  two  baihes,  one 
treasurer,  and  a  number  of  councillors.  Buckhaven  is  a  large  and 
extensive  fishing  station.  Kirkland  is  an  extensive  manufac- 
turing establishment,  under  the  firm  of  Neilson  and  Company ; 
and  East  and  West  Coaltowns  are  inhabited  by  colliers,  and  who 
are  all  in  the  employ  of  Captain  Wemyss. 

Means  of  Communication. — The  turnpike  road  from  Kirkcaldy 
to  Cupar  iDy  Kennoway  runs  through  the  north  part  of  the  parish, 
and  is  very  good.  The  other  roads,  which  are  kept  in  repair  by 
means  of  the  statute  labour  money,  have  been  much  improved  of 
late,  although  they  are  not  by  any  means  so  good  as  they  should 
be. 

Although  there  is  no  post-office,  yet  we  have  every  facility  for 
communication,  as  there  is  a  runner  or  post-boy  from  Kirkcaldy 
to  Leven  every  morning,  and  again  from  Leven  to  Kirkcaldy  in 
the  afternoon.  There  are  two  carriers  in  Buckhaven,  who  go  to 
Kirkcaldy  every  week,  the  one  on  Tuesday  and  the  other  on 
Friday.  There  is  also  a  carrier  in  East  Wemyss,  who  goes  to 
Kirkcaldy  twice  every  week,  Tuesday  and  Friday.  And  there  is 
a  woman,  who  goes  every  lawful  day,  carries  parcels,  and  tran- 
sacts any  business  with  which  she  may  be  intrusted. 

Harbours. —  There  is  a  good  harbour  at  Methil.   The  pier  was 


WEMYSS. 


399 


considerably  injured  a  good  many  years  ago,  by  a  very  violent 
storm.  There  is  also  a  good  harbour  at  West  Wemyss,  for  the 
accommodation  of  vessels  engaged  in  the  coal  trade.  The  erec- 
tion of  a  new  pier  and  harbour  to  be  set  down  at  the  west  end  of 
Buckhaven,  was  agitated  some  two  or  three  years  ago.  Several 
engineers  inspected  the  ground,  and  were  employed  in  making  a 
plan  of  the  undertaking;  but  nothing  has,  as  yet,  been  done.  Could 
it  be  carried  into  effect,  it  would  be  of  great  utility  to  the  fisher- 
men of  Buckhaven ;  and  from  the  eligibility  of  the  site,  it  could 
not  fail  to  be  a  place  of  resort  for  boats  and  ships  in  distress. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  in  East  Wemvss, 
and  is  as  conveniently  situated  for  the  great  body  of  the  people  as 
it  could  well  be.  It  is  an  old  building  in  the  form  of  a  cross. 
The  date  of  its  erection  cannot  be  ascertained.  It  has  undergone 
several  repairs ;  and,  although  the  construction  is  bad,  yet,  upon 
the  whole,  it  is  a  decent  and  comfortable  place  of  worship;  It 
has  sittings  for  about  1000  persons.  It  is  by  far  too  small  for  the 
parish.  From  900  to  1000  communicate  annually.  The  people 
are  very  attentive  to  the  ordinances  of  religion. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1791,  and  is  a  good  and  commodious 
house.  The  offices  are  also  good,  and  there  is  a  large  garden.  The 
glebe  consists  of  7  acres  and  15  falls,  Scots  measure,  and  is  as 
excellent  land  as  any  in  the  parish.  The  stipend  is  17  chalders, 
half  meal  and  half  barley,  converted  at  the  rate  of  the  highest 
fiars  in  the  county,  with  L.  10  for  communion  elements.  There 
are  some  rocks  and  sea-weed  or  ware,  that  belong  to  the  cure. 
Captain  James  Wemyss  is  sole  heritor.  The  presentation  is  in 
the  gift  of  the  Town- Council  of  Edinburgh. 

There  is  a  Dissenting  meeting-house  in  connection  with  the 
United  Associate  Synod,  situated  on  the  links  of  Buckhaven,  about 
two  miles  from  the  parish  church.  The  clergyman's  stipend  is 
L,  110  per  annum,  with  manse  and  garden.  The  present  minis- 
ter is  the  Rev.  Robert  Pollock.  The  congregation  is  respectable, 
and  divine  service  is  well  attended. 

The  following  persons  have  been  ministers  of  this  parish  since 
the  Revolution:  Archibald  Riddell,  1691  to  1697;  Thomas 
Black,  1697  to  1698;  James  Grierson,  1698  to  1710;  John 
Cleghorn,  1711  to  1744;  Harry  Spens,  1744  to  1780;  William 
Greenfield,  1781  to  1784;  George  Gib,  1785  to  1818. 

The  present  incumbent  was  ordained  minister  of  Alva,  presby- 


400 


I'iFESHlRli;. 


tery  of  Stirling,  22cl  April  1813,  and  translated  to  Wemyss,  4th 
February  1819. 

Catechist. — In  1705,  the  Earl  of  Cromarty,  out  of  regard  to  the 
memory  of  Margaret,  heiress  and  Countess  of  Wemyss,  and  Coun- 
tess of  Cromarty,  mortified  a  small  sum  of  money  for  founding  a 
salary  to  a  catechist,  for  catechising  and  instructing  the  colliers 
and  salters  and  others  in  the  parish  of  Wemyss.  The  gift  of  pre- 
sentation is  in  the  family  of  Wemyss  ;  and  the  presentee  is  tried 
and  admitted  by  the  minister  and  kirk-session.  The  present  ca- 
techist is  the  second  who  has  ever  been  appointed ;  his  salary  is 
L.  50,  16s.  ll/gd.  a  year. 

The  following  table  contains  the  census  of  this  parish  taken  in 
January  and  February  1836. 


Population. 


2 
o 
H 


E.  Wemyss, 
Buckliaven, 
Metliil, 
Kirkland, 
W.  Wemyss, 
W.  Coaltown, 
E.  Coaltown, 
Country  p. 


837 
1475 
50P 
54'^ 
939 
299 
162 
452 


5215 


227 
487 
166 
146 
352 
102 
64 
152 


1696 


146 
368 
114 
96 
233 
61 
41 
112 


1171 


809 
550 
298 
216 
865 
297 
123 
322 


^  si 

o  S  £ 


MS 


3480 


26 
910 
178 
316 

48 
2 

39 
130 


1649 


2 
15 
32 
11 
26 
0 
0 
0 


Comrauni- 
eants. 


86 


3.52 
551 
86 
191 
156 
77 
27 
182 


1 622 


372 
182 
123 

84 
340 
145 

50 
144 


1440 


19 
425 
76 
142 
27 
2 
9 
59 

739 


Sittings  held 
of  right. 


66  3 


466 
68 
166 
39 
9 
8 
75 

897 


24;^ 

7f 
IS 
14 
89 
46 
1 1 

Oh 


78  524 


40 
7 
0 

II 

28 
22 
0 
15 

123 


Education.-The  parochial  school  is  in  East  Wemyss.  The 
teacher,  who  is  a  licentiate  of  the  church,  has  the  maximum  salary 
viz.  L.  34,  4s.  4id.,  and  L.  1,  15s.  V^d.,  for  the  want  of  the  legal 
quantity  of  garden  ground.  He  is  also  session-clerk,  the  perquisites 
of  which  may  average  L.  20  a  year.  The  school  fees  may  amount 
to  L  25  per  annum.  All  the  common  branches  are  taught  here, 
as  also  Latin,  French,  and  mathematics.  There  are  six  other 
schools  in  the  parish,  all  unendowed,  except  the  school  at  Ku-kland, 
which  is  partially  endowed,  as  the  company,  besides  the  school 
fees,  give  L.  30  a  year  by  way  of  salary.  Nearly  800  young  per- 
sons' are  receiving  instruction  in  various  branches  of  education,  at 
the  different  schools.  And  if  there  are  any  in  the  parish  above 
fifteen  years  of  age,  or  even  above  ten,  who  cannot  read,  the  fault 
lies  with  the  parents.  There  is  an  educational  machinery  m  mo- 
tion that  is  not  surpassed  in  any  parish;  and  all  the  teachers,  seven 


WEMYSS. 


401 


ill  nuuiber,  are  distinguished  for  their  zeal,  and  efficiency,  and  di- 
ligence and  success,  and  all,  except  one,  belong  to  the  Established 
Church. 

Under  this  head,  we  have  to  remark  that  the  late  Mr  Archibald 
Cook,  Kirkcaldy,  who  died  in  the  beginning  of  1832,  and  who 
was  a  native  of  this  parish,  left  property  to  a  very  considerable 
amount.  His  widow  is  liferented  in  the  whole  of  it,  which,  after 
her  decease,  comes  to  this  parish,  and  is  to- be  applied  solely  to 
educational  purposes.  During  the  lifetime  of  Mrs  Cook,  the 
ministers  of  Dysart,  Kirkcaldy,  Abbotshall,  Leslie,  and  Wemyss, 
act  as  trustees,  and  have  already  entered  on  their  office.  After 
her  death,  the  trust  devolves  on  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy. 

Libraries. — Asubscription  library  was  instituted  in  East  Wemyss 
in  1817,  and  contains  upwards  of  300  volumes,  consisting  of  di- 
vunty,  history,  voyages,  travels,  &c.  exclusive  of  reviews  and  ma- 
gazines. There  are,  besides,  three  other  libraries  in  the  parish. 
There  is  one  in  Buckhaven,  one  in  West  Wemyss,  and  a  trades- 
man's library  was  lately  instituted  in  East  Wemyss. 

Sabbath  Schools. — There  are  Sabbath  evening  schools  in  all  the 
villages,  and  the  young  people  attending  them  are  accommodated 
with  books,  chiefly  religious,  according  to  their  age  and  capacity. 

Inns. — There  is  no  want  of  inns  or  alehouses  in  the  parish. 
Their  increase  has  kept  pace  with  the  increase  of  the  population. 
Men  cannot  be  compelled  to  be  religious;  but  such  a  tax  can 
and  ought  to  be  put  on  strong  liquor,  as  would  necessarily  oblige 
them  to  be  sober  and  temperate. 

^  Friendly  Societies.— There  is  in  this  parish  the  Generous  So- 
ciety, which  was  instituted  in  1793  for  sick  and  aged  members. 
Each  member  pays  3s.  of  entry  money,  and  Is.  a  quarter,  and  is 
not  entitled  to  receive  any  benefit  till  he  has  been  six  years  a 
member,  and  paid  his  quarterly  accounts  for  that  period.  A  mem- 
ber when  sick  or  unable  to  work  at  his  lawful  employment,  receives 
4s.  a  week  for  a  limited  time.  Those  on  the  superannuated  list 
receive  2s.  a  week  for  life.  This  Society  has  been  the  means  of 
doing  much  good  to  the  members,  and  of  preventing  pauperism. 
There  is  an  annual  procession  of  its  members.  It  is  modelled  or 
based  upon  the  plan  recommended  by  the  Highland  Society  of 
Scotland.  Its  funds  are  in  a  flourishing  condition,  which  is  a 
strong  evidence  of  the  correctness  of  the  principles  on  which  it  is 
founded. 

Savings  Banks.— A  savings  bank  was  established  in  East  Wemyss 
about  thirty  years  ago.  The  yearly  investment  may  be  about  L.  210, 

FIFK.  cc 


402 


FIFESHIIIE. 


being  80  shares  among  66  members,  at  L.  2,  12s.  each.  For  the 
last  three  or  four  years,  about  L.  100  per  annum  have  been  with- 
drawn. The  investments  are  made  chiefly  by  the  working-classes. 
The  sum  on  hand  is  L.  1944.  There  is  also  a  savings  bank  at 
West  Wemyss ;  one  at  Buckhaven  ;  and  one  lately  established  at 
West  Coaltown. 

Poo7''s  Funds. — Captain  Wemyss,  the  sole  heritor  of  this  parish, 
some  years  ago  wisely  agreed  to  give  L.  40  a-year  in  aid  of  the 
funds,  in  order  to  avoid  a  legal  assessment.  His  annual  payments, 
however,  have  hitherto  considerably  exceeded  that  sum. 

In  1833  they  amounted  to                       .  .          .          .      L.  60    0  0 

Amount  of  church  collections,           .  .          .          .          .     44  19  4{ 

proclamations,            .           .  .           .           .           12    2  3 

mortcloths,          .          .  .          .          .          .       1  11  2 

fines,               .           .           .  .           .           .            15  0 

burying-ground  and  seat  rents,  .          .          .  .0166 

L.  120  14  3i 

Of  the  above  sum,  there  was  paid  for  house  rents  and 

occasional  charities,         .         .         .        .        L.  13    7  10 
In  monthly  pensions,         .         .         .         .       ,       88    1  2 

^   101    9  0 

L.  19    5  3^ 

This  sum  was  applied  to  the  payment  of  salaries  to  synod  clerk, 
presbytery  clerk,  session-clerk,  kirk  treasurer,  and  precentor,  and 
incidental  expenses.  Number  of  poor  on  the  roll,  40 ;  average 
allowance  to  each,  L.  2,  10s.  81  jd. 

MlSCELLiSNEOUS  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  enlightened  and  liberal  views  that  have  taken  place,  in  all 
departments  of  industry,  have  extended  themselves  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  soil ;  and  since  the  publication  of  the  last  Statistical 
Report  of  this  parish,  the  most  approved  methods  of  agriculture 
have  been  introduced.    The  farmers  are  industrious,  intelligent, 
and  persevering,  and  possess  a  comprehensive  knowledge  of  hus- 
bandry in  all  its  departments.   They  have  spared  no  expense,  and 
grudged  no  labour,  in  order  to  draw  forth,  in  rich  abundance,  the 
capabilities  of  the  ground.    They  have,  accordingly,  attended  to 
draining,  which  has  been  well  and  wisely  denominated  the  basis 
and  foundation  of  all  agricultural  improvement;  and  they  are 
more  and  more  impressed  with  the  indispensable  necessity  of  a 
proper  and  regular  rotation  of  green  cropping,  in  order  that  the 
land  may  be  properly  cleaned  and  p4-epared  for  a  white  or  gram 
crop.  There  is,  therefore,  less  fallow  than  formerly,  and  a  greater 
quantity  of  potatoes  are  planted.    More  live-stock  are  kept  and 
reared,  and  a  greater  quantity  of  turnips  raised.    More  atten- 
tion is  also  paid  to  liming,  which  had  been  hitherto  too  much  ne- 


MTSMVSS. 


403 


glected,  and  which  never  foils  to  give  a  new  stimulus  to  soils  that 
had  begun  to  lose  their  vegetative  and  productive  powers.  The 
great  wish  and  study,  in  ftict,  just  now  is,  to  have  as  great  a 
breadth  of  wheat  sown  down  as  possible,  because  this  has  been 
found,  for  a  considerable  time  past,  the  best  remunerating  crop. 
Great  care,  however,  must  be  taken  not  to  carry  this  wish  too  far, 
because  if  it  were,  it  could  not  fail  to  have  an  eflPect  the  very  re- 
verse of  what  was  intended. 

I  have  only  farther  to  remark,  that  I  know  no  obstacle  or  dis- 
couragement even  to  the  still  greater  improvement  of  the  farms  in 
this  parish,  except  one,  and  .that  is  the  great  quantity  of  game  that 
abounds,  such  as  hares,  and  pheasants,  and  rabbits,  &c.  No 
doubt  this  great  evil  has  been  gradually  diminishing  for  some  years 
past ;  but  still  there  is  plenty  of  room  for  farther  improvement, 
which,  it  is  hoped,  will  not  be  lost  sight  of.  In  every  district 
where  game  is  carefully  preserved,  and  allowed  to  multiply  and 
mcrease,  no  greater  bar  or  obstacle  to  agricultural  improvement 
can  be  named. 

N.  B. — Since  the  above  report  was  written,  and  given  in  up- 
wards of  a  year  ago,  I  have  to  notice  that  a  post-ofFice  has  been 
established  in  the  village  of  East  Wemyss.    The  new  pier  and 
harbour,  to  which  allusion  is  made  in  the  body  of  this  report,  in 
reference  to  Buckhaven,  are  in  a  state  of  great  forwardness.  The 
expense  of  this  very  important  undertaking  is  to  be  about  L.  4200, 
of  which  the  Board  of  Fisheries,  withr  that  liberality  that  has  al- 
ways characterized  their  transactions,  are  to  give  about  L.  3000, 
and  the  fishermen  of  Buckhaven  are  to  implement  the  rest.  The 
contractors  are  the  Messrs  Mathieson,  builders,  Glasgow,  who,  as 
far  as  they  have  gone,  have  executed  the  work  in  a  most  substantial 
and  efficient  manner. 

I  have  also  to  record,  that  on  the  6th  of  June  last,  the  founda- 
tion stone  of  a  church,  in  connexion  with  the  Establishment,  was 
laid  in  the  village  of  Methil,  the  expense  of  which  is  to  be  L.  1030. 
It  IS  now  far  advanced;  so  much  so,  that  it  will  be  open  for  public 
worship  about  the  beginning  of  March.  This  new  erection  is  to 
contam  upwards  of  800  sittings,  and  will  accommodate  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Methil,  Kirkland,  Methil-hill,  Links  of  Buckhaven,  and 
those  of  Inverleven,  a  remote  and  detached  portion  of  the  parish 
of  Markmch,  the  whole  including  a  population  of  upwards  of  1700. 

The  pier  at  Methil  is  also  begun  to  be  repaired,  the  expense  of 
which  is  to  be  upwards  of  L.  1800. 
January  1838. 


PARISH  OF  BURNTISLAND. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKCALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  DAVID  COUPER,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name.— Tn^  name  of  this  parish  was  anciently  Wester  King- 
horn.  Tradition  accounts  for  its  present  name  by  saying,  that  the 
small  island,  which  forms  part  of  the  west  side  of  the  harbour,  was 
originally  peopled  by  a  colony  of  fishermen,  whose  dwelling  was 
destroyed  by  fire.  But  the  ancient  name  of  the  town  was  Bart- 
land  or  Bertiland,  which  has  passed  through  various  forms  into 
Burntisland.  The  etymology  is  uncertain,  but  is  probably  to  be 
found  in  the  Gaehc.  "There  is  no  doubt  that  the  parish  has  de- 
rived its  present  name  from  the  town. 

Extent,  Boundaries.— The  parish  extends  about  21  miles  from 
east  to  west,  and  about  2^  miles  from  north  to  south.  Its  whole 
extent  may  be  about  5  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east 
by  Kinghorn  ;  on  the  west,  by  Aberdour ;  on  the  north,  by  both 
these  parishes ;  and  on  the  south,  by  the  Frith  of  Forth.  ^ 

Topographical  Appearances.— The  surface  is  very  varied  and 
uneven.  The  southern  part  of  it  presents  a  Series  of  ridges  of 
different  elevations,  running  from  east  to  west,  and  parallel  to  one 
another.  The  first  is  that  which  rises  from  the  sea ;  the  next, 
that  which  is  called  the  Schoolhill,  and  sometimes  Mount  Plea- 
sant. Between  these  two,  is  situated  the  greater  part  of  the  town. 
The  next  is  that  on  which  the  village  of  Kirktoun  is  situated. 
These  three  ridges  are  of  very  inconsiderable  height;  but  the  suc- 
ceeding one  rises  abruptly,  about  the  middle,  to  an  elevation  of  625 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  hill  thus  formed  is  called 
the  Bin,  and  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  It  has  two  tops, 
which,  being  on  the  south  side  very  bare  and  rugged,  present  a 
fine  contrast  to  the  cultivated  fields  below.  To  the  northward  of 
this  ridge,  the  parish  presents  an  interesting  variety  of  hill  and 
dale.     The  eminences  are  somewhat  irregularly  scattered,  and 


BURNTISLAND. 


4.05 


vary  considerably  in  appearance  and  elevation.  The  highest  are, 
Orrock  Hill  and  Dunearn  Hill.  The  latter  is  the  highest  land 
in  the  parish,  being  695  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  view 
from  it  is  uncommonly  extensive  and  magnificent,  embracing,  it 
is  said,  portions  of  fourteen  counties. 

The  town  stands  on  a  peninsula,  which  projects  a  considerable 
way  into  the  Frith,  and  is  very  picturesque  in  its  appearance. 
There  are  about  three  miles  of  coast,  one-third  of  which  is  sandy, 
and  two-thirds  rocky.  At  the  western  boundary  there  is  a  small 
cave,  to  which  at  full  tide  there  is  no  access. 

The  climate  is  exceedingly  salubrious,  and  epidemics  are  rare. 
Hydrography. — There  are  few  streams  in  the  parish.  The 
most  interesting  is  Starly  Burn,  which  flows  off  the  large  field  of 
limestone  belonging  to  the  Carron  Company,  and,  after  a  very 
short  course,  falls  over  a  high  rock  into  the  sea.  The  cascade 
thus  formed  is  at  all  times  highly  picturesque,  and,  seen  through 
the  luxuriant  foliage  which  environs  it.  in  summer,  is  an  object  of 
uncommon  beauty.  The  water  is  of  a  petrifying  quality.  It  holds 
m  solution  the  super-carbonate  of  lime,  which,  on  coming  into  con- 
tact with  the  atmosphere,  gives  off  its  excess  of  carbonic  acid,  and 
is  precipitated  as  the  carbonate  of  lime.  Many  interesting  spe- 
cimens of  petrified  moss  and  wood  have  been  here  procured. 

The  water  with  which  the  town  is  supplied,  is  conveyed  by 
leaden  pipes  from  the  high  ground  to  the  eastward.  As  it  flows 
off  lime,  it  is  in  some  degree  impregnated  with  that  substance,  and 
leaves  a  slight  deposit  on  being  boiled.  It  is  hard,  but  clear  and 
wholesome ;  and  there  is,  in  general,  an  abundant  supply. 

Tides,  Src — Under  this  head  it  may  be  stated,  that  two  hours 
before  high-water  the  ebb-tide  commences  to  run  down  inshore  ; 
and  that,  vice  versa,  two  hours  before  low-water,  the  flood-tide 
commences  to  run  up  in-shore.    Sometimes  before  low- water,  the 
tide  is  observed  to  flow  for  a  short  time,  and  then  to  ebb  to  a 
greater  distance  than  the  line  at  which  the  irregular  flow  com- 
menced.   The  reverse  of  this  phenomenon  is  also  observed  to 
take  place— the  tide  sometimes  beginning  to  ebb  before  high- 
water,  and,  after  receding  a  short  space,  to  return  to  high-water 
mark.    These  irregularities  are  denominated  leahies,  and  are  al- 
ways connected  with  stormy  weather.   A  minute  account  of  them, 
as  they  occur  in  the  Frith,  between  Queensferry  and,  Alloa,  may 
be  found  in  Sibbald's  History  of  Fife,  in  a  communication  from  the 
Rev.  Mr  Wright,  formerly  minister  at  Alloa. 


406 


FII'ESHIUE. 


Geology  and  Mineralogy. —  This  parish,  in  a  geological  point  of 
view,  is  very  interesting,  not  only  as  illustrating  general  geological 
principles,  but  also  from  the  varied  and  beautiful  displays  it  affords  of 
the  numerous  Neptunian  and  Plutonian  rocks  of  the  coal  formation, 
and  of  the  fossil  organic  remains  which  it  contains.  Since  the  atten- 
tion of  naturalists  was  first  directed  to  the  natural  history  of  this  dis- 
trict, by  the  observations  of  Professor  Jameson,  read  to  the  Wernerian 
Society,  few  parts  of  Scotland  have  been  more  visited  by  native  and 
foreign  geologists,  and'the  Professor  himself  still  pays  us  an  annual 
visit  with  his  class  of  Natural  History.    We  regret  that  the  limited 
nature  of  this  work  prevents  us  from  communicating  more  than  the 
following  observations. 

The  southern  part  of  this  parish  may  be  regarded  as  a  centre 
from  which  the  strata  radiate  in  opposite  directions,  thus  af- 
fording an  example  of  the  qua-qua  versal  dip.    Supposing  the 
spectator  to  look  southward,  he  will  have  on  his  left  Kinghorn 
and  Inchkeith,  consisting  of  strata  of  the  coal  formation,  dipping 
to  the  east.  In  front,  he  will  have  the  country  between  Newhaven 
and  the  Pentland  range,  where  the  strata  dip  south ;  while  on  the 
right,  the  strata  cross  the  Frith  in  the  direction  of  Inchcolm,  the 
dip  being  westerly.    Behind  the  dip  is  to  the  north.    Hence  it 
would  seem  as  if  this  part  of  the  country  had  originally  been  flat, 
and  been  upheaved  by  some  great  subterranean  force,  whose  cen- 
tre of  action  has  been  somewhere  near  Burntisland. 

The  rocks  belong  to  the  coal  formation,  and  are  principally  lime-- 
stone,  sandstone,  ironstone,  slate-clay,  bituminous  shale,  green- 
stone, basalt,  trap  tuffa,  &c.  At  the  boundary  between  Kinghorn 
and  Burntisland,  there  are  beds  of  sandstone  and  limestone,  which 
are  cut  across  by  greenstone  and  trap  tuffa.  Here  also  occur 
masses  of  sandstone,  limestone,  and  slate-clay,  imbedded  in  tufa- 
ceous  rock.    Coal  has  also  been  ascertained  to  exist. 

At  Whinnyhall  quarries  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  parish, 
the  strata  have  been  laid  open  to  a  considerable  extent.  In  the 
lowest  quarry,  or  that  nearest  the  sea,  they  occur  in  the  following 
order: — the  lowest  is  limestone,  then  slate-clay,  felspar,  slate-clay, 
and  bituminous  shale  of  a  dark  shade  of  colour,  ironstone,  sand- 
stone, alluvium.  The  dip  is  eastward.  In  the  next  quarry  to  the 
north,  the  same  strata  occur,  exhibiting  a  beautiful  bend  or  wave-. 
The  felspar  is  here  seen  bursting  through  the  coal  formation,  af- 
fording a  very  good  specimen  of  a  slip  or  fault.  Another  example 


BUUNTI3LAND. 


407 


occurs  at  the  third  quarry  to  the  north,  on  the  side  of  the  road 
leading  to  Kirkcaldy.  Between  these  quarries  and  the  Lochies,  is 
a  mass  of  greenstone  with  slate-clay,  very  much  hardened,  and  re- 
sembling porcelain  jasper. 

The  strata  of  sandstone,  shale,  and  limestone,  contain  fossil 
remains  of  ferns,  also  specimens  of  the  fossil  genera  Stigmaria, 
Sigillaria,  Lepidodendron,  Lepidophyllum,  Lepidostrobus  and  Ly- 
copodites.  In  the  bituminous  shale  and  limestone,  teeth,  bones, 
scales,  and  coprolite,  of  fishes,  also  entire  fossilized  fishes  occur. 
Professor  Jameson  pointed  out  these  remains  to  his  pupils  many 
years  ago  during  his  geological  excursions.  Lately,  on  opening 
up  a  new  bed  of  coal  limestone,  in  the  limestone  quarries  of  Burdie 
House,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Forth,  so  long  celebrated  for  their 
fossil  plants,  remains  of  fishes  were  discovered.  In  our  Burntisland 
quarries  several  of  the  Burdie  House  fossil  fishes  have  been  met 
with,  besides  others  unknown  there,  such  as  the  Pygopteris  Jame- 
soni,  and  the  P.  elegans  of  Agassiz.* 

The  first  ridge,  mentioned  in  the  account  of  the  topographical 
appearances  as  rising  from  the  sea,  consists  of  greenstone  dipping 
to  the  north.  Sandstone  occupies  the  hollow  in  which  the  town 
stands.  The  second  ridge  is  also  of  greenstone,  and  the  hollow 
beyond  is  filled  with  sandstone.  The  third  ridge  consists  of  the 
same  material  with  the  two  already  mentioned ;  and  in  the  flat 
track  to  the  northward,  are  found  sandstone,  slate-clay,  bituminous 
shale,  and  limestone.  The  Bin,  which  is  the  highest  part  of  the 
succeeding  ridge,  consists  of  trap  tuffa,  and  appears  to  have  risen 
through  limestone,  sandstone,  clay-ironstone,  slate-clay,  and  bitu- 
minous shale.  The  minerals  found  here  are  natrolite,  zeolite, 
amethyst,  chalcedony,  agates,  &c.  The  eminences  to  the  north- 
ward consist  of  greenstone,  basalt,  trap  tuffa,  &c.  Basalt  oc- 
curs in  abundance  at  Dunearn  Hill,  along  the  north  side  of  which 
it  assumes  very  distinctly  the  columnar  form.  On  the  summit  is 
a  small  loch  which  never  dries.  This  has  been  supposed  to  be  the 
crater  of  an  extinct  volcano ;  and,  indeed,  throughout  the  district 
traces  of  igneous  action  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  On  Orrock 
hdl,  there  is  a  beautiful  display  of  basaltic  columns.  The  west 
side  of  this  hill  is  bare  and  steep,  and  is  covered  at  the  bottom 

'•/r  ^"I'^'ge  Museum  of  Edinburgh,  there  is  a  collection  of  the  Burntisland 
fossil  fashes.  We  are  particular  in  mentioning  this  circumstance,  because  the  lime- 
stone quarries  that  alTorclecl  the  fossil  fishes  are  now  no  longer  worked,  and  it  is  only 
rarely  that  specimens  are  to  be  picked  amongst  the  rubbish  in  the  old  quarries. 


408 


FIFESHIKli: 


with  debris.    The  north  side  of  Dunearn  Hill  presents  the  same 
appearances  on  a  grander  scale. 

We  may  now  briefly  trace  the  line  of  coast.  The  eastern  part 
presents  a  succession  of  small  sandhills,  onwards  to  the  Links. 
The  chief  part  of  these  is  a  fine  smooth  plain,  which  is  said  to  have 
extended  at  one  time  to  a  small  rock,  now  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore.  In  this  quarter,  the  sea  has  obviously  made  great  encroach- 
ments. The  current  sweeping  round  the  rock  already  mentioned, 
has  gradually  gained  on  the  land,  and  worn  away  the  softer  por- 
tions of  the  opposite  rocks  at  Lamberlaws.  From  the  Links  to 
the  harbour,  is  the  ridge  of  greenstone  formerly  noticed.  Along 
half  of  this  space,  the  rocks  are  very  rugged  and  precipitous,  and 
at  high  water  are  covered  in  some  places  to  the  depth  of  12  or  14 
feet.  From  the  harbour  westward,  along  the  rest  of  the  peninsula, 
the  coast  presents  limestone  alternating  with  sandstone,  and  is  very 
rugged  from  the  large  quantities  of  debris.  The  same  rocks  pre- 
dominate along  the  remainder  of  the  coast.  At  Starly-burn,  the 
rocks  are  incrusted  with  deposits  of  calc  tuflf  and  calc  sinter,  from 
springs  which  come  through  the  large  beds  of  limestone,  in  the 
south-west  part  of  the  parish.  The  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  so 
abundant  in  amygdaloidal  and  trap  rocks,  have  been  filled  up 
with  similar  deposits,  crystallization  taking  place  after  the  deposi- 
tion. 

Fossils  of  the  vegetable  kind  are  found,  but  not  in  great  abun- 
dance, at  the  quarries  at  Newbigging,  and  at  the  old  sandstone 
quarries  near  the  coast,  at  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish. 
Charred  wood  occurs  in  the  masses  of  trap  tulFa,  scattered  along 
the  eastern  shore. 

The  chief  alluvial  deposits  are,  loam,  gravel,  sand,  clay,  and 
moss.  The  soil  between  the  town  and  the  Bin  is  mostly  a  rich 
deep  loam  of  great  fertility,  and  is  probably  as  good  land  as  can 
be  found  in  the  county.  To  the  northward,  the  soil  is  lighter;  but, 
being  for  the  most  part  well  cultivated,  yields  good  crops.  A 
strip  of  mossy  ground  runs  along  the  northern  boundary  .of  the 
parish. 

Quarries. — Besides  the  quarries  already  noticed,  there  is  one  of 
excellent  sandstone  or  freestone  at  Grange.  At  Newbigging,  the 
limestone  rock  has  been  extensively  excavated.  The  western  quarry 
extends  from  the  front  of  the  rock  backwards  above  a  hundred  yards. 
The  roof  is  sandstone, — to  support  which,  masses  of  limestone  four 
feet  square  are  left  standing.  The  rooms  between  these  supports  are 


BURNTISLAND. 


400 


36  feet  square.  In  July  1831,  ti  great  part  of  this  quarry  was 
flooded,  and  eight  rooms  are  still  under  water.  A  large  proportion 
of  the  limestone  is  now  got  from  a  mine  to  the  eastward,  which  com- 
municates with  the  surface  by  a  tunnel,  500  yards  in  length,  3  in 
width,  and  21  in  height.  In  cutting  this  tunnel,  great  obstructions 
were  met  with,  the  ground  being  much  troubled  With  dikes  and  off- 
cuts.  Masses  of  greenstone,  limestone,  freestone,  clay,  and  blaes, 
(black  and  gray)  were  found  intermingled  in  a  state  of  great  con- 
fusion. The  whole  bed  of  limestone  is  very  much  intersected  with 
dikes. 

Zoology. — In  addition  to  hares,  rabbits,  and  other  common  ani- 
mals, deer,  badgers,  and  otters,  are  occasionally  seen.  About 
eighty  species  of  birds,  including  land  and  sea-birds,  are  natives 
or  visitors  of  the  parish,  but  none  is  peculiar  to  it,  nor  are  there 
any  very  rare.  The  golden-crested  wren,  the  bullfinch,  the  gold- 
finch, the  jay,  the  fieldfare,  the  pheasant,  with  most  of  the  com- 
mon small  birds,  are  found  in  the  district.  It  has  been  remarked, 
that,  since  the  great  snow-storm  of  1822,  goldfinches  have  been 
much  less  numerous  than  they  previously  were.  In  June  1834,  a 
brown-coloured  crow  was  seen  in  the  parish,  and  attempts  were 
made,  but  without  success,  to  obtain  possession  of  it. 

The  more  common  species  of  fish  are  found  off  the  coast.  For 
several  seasons,  the  herring,  which  formerly  was  very  abundant,  has 
almost  totally  deserted  the  Frith.  Oysters  and  lobsters  are  found, 
with  abundance  of  cockles,  spout-fish,  and  sand-eels,  which  form 
part  of  the  food  of  the  poorer  classes  during  summer.  Great  num- 
bers, especially  of  the  young,  may  then  be  seen  digging  at  low 
water  for  these  kinds  of  fish,  in  the  extensive  sand-beds  to  the  east 
of  Burntisland. 

Botany. — The  following  is  a  list  of  the  plants  most  worthy  of 
notice ;  some  of  them  are  understood  to  be  very  rare : — 

Primula  elatior,       .  .  Starly-burn. 

Hyoscyamus  niger,  .       .          Waste  ground  east  of  Starly-burii. 

Solanum  dulcamara,  .            Roadside  leading  to  Aberdouv  iileiititul. 

Cochloaria  danica,  .             West  pier,  Burntisland. 

Orobanche  major,  .        .            Bank  to  the  north  of  the  town. 

Ballota  nigra,          .  .           Lanes  near  the  church.  Abundant. 

Marrubium  vulgare,  .            Waste  places. 

Thlaspi  arvense,  .       .           Field  south  side  of  road.  Starly-burn. 
Lepidium  campestre,  .  Do. 
Sedum  telephiuin,  .           ,        Rocky  banks  by  the  sea. 
 reflexum,  .           Grange  quarry. 

Galeopsis  ladanum,  .              Cornfield,  south-east  of  Bin.  Plentiful. 

Anchusa  sempervirens,  .           Near  west  toll-bar,  by  side  of  a  foot-path. 

Borago  officmalis,  .         Lane  to  the  east  of  tlie  cliurcli. 

Coronopus  Rucllii,  .           Wayside  near  manse.    Very  abundant. 


410 


I'^IFESHIUE. 


Salvia  verbcnaca,  ,        Bank  facing  tlie  harbour. 

Cakile  maritima,  .               East  of  tlic  town. 

Glhux  maritimum,  .  Do. 

Salsola  kali,  .  Do. 

Geranium  sanguineum,  .          Hills  east  from  BurntislancL 

Erythraea  centaurea,  .  Do. 

Parietaria  muralis,  .               OpiDosite  the  harbour. 

Euphorbia  exigui,  .  Cornfields. 

Reseda  lutea  et  luteola,  .         Between  Burntisland  and  Pettycur. 

Brassica  campestris,  .           Near  Starly-burn. 

Aster  Tripolium,  .       .       Salt-marsh,  west  of  Burntisland. 

Inula  helenium,  .                Hills  east  of  do. 

Chrysanthemum  segetum,  .  Cornfields. 

Sparganium  natans,  .            Dunearn  Hill. 

  simplex,  .       .  Do. 

Eleocharis  fluitans,  .  Do. 

Litorella  lacustris,  .          .  Do. 

Diauthus  deltoides,  .       .  Do. 

Mercurialis  annua,  .          Waste  ground  near  the  church. 

Veronica  anagallis,  .  Ditches. 

Phleum  arenarium,  .              Between  Burntisland  and  Pettycur. 

Poa  rigida,            .  .        Old  walls. 

Carex  extensa,  .  Starly-burn. 

 carta,  .           .  Do. 

Eupatoria  cannabinum,  .  Do. 

Asplenium  marinum,  .  Do. 

Blj'smus  rufus,,  .  Do. 

Cynoglossum  officinale,       .  Pastures  near  the  sea. 

Rumex  maritimus,  .           Sea  shore. 

The  following  also  occur,  but  we  are  not  in  possession  of  their 
localities  : — 

Triticum  loliaceum,  .        .           Sinnpis  alba, 

Erythrea  litloralis,  .            .          Solidago  virgaurea, 

Siura  angustifolium,  .        .           Trifolium  seabrum, 

Gentiana  campestris,  .               Tragopogon  majus,  (or  pratense,) 

Origanum  vulgare,  .                  Zostera  marina. 

In  the  parish,  generally,  there  is  a  great  deficiency  of  wood. 
Within  the  last  two  or  three  years,  some  attention  has  been  paid 
to  the  remedying  of  this  defect ;  but  there  is  still  ample  scope  for 
improvement.  The  soil  appears  most  congenial  to  hard -wood,  oak, 
ash,  elm,  &c. 

It  may  be  mentioned  that  there  grew  last  summer  in  the  manse 
garden,  a  Scots  thistle,  which  produced  713  heads,  exclusive  of 
about  thirty  which  were  scarcely  developed.  * 

*  With  regard  to  the  department  of  Natural  History,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place 
to  record  here  the  suggestion  so  often  urged  by  Professor  Jameson,  and  also  by  an 
intelligent  friend,  that,  in  connection  with  every  parochial  school,  it  would  be  very 
desirable  to  have  a  parochial  museum.  A  certain  knowledge  of  natural  history,  would 
of  course,  be  requisite  in  the  parish  teacher;  the  scholars  and  others  might  be  en- 
couraged to  collect  specimens;  and  in  almost  every  parisli,  there  would  surely  be 
found  some  individuals  who  would  take  an  interest  in  the  matter,  and  bear  part  of 
the  expenses,  which  would  be  very  trifling.  The  scheme,  if  carried  into  cflect,  would 
lead  to  a  very  complete  knowledge  of  the  Natural  History  of  the  country.  To  those 
who  have  not  reflected  on  the  subject,  it  is  almost  incredible  wliat  an  interesting  col- 
lection might  be  formed  out  of  the  productions  of  a  single  parish. 


I 


BURNTISLAND.  411 

II. —  Civil  History. 

The  Town-council  records  are  the  chief  source  of  information 
regarding  the  history  and  antiquities  of  the  parish.  The  Session 
records  are  also  of  some  use  in  this  respect.  Some  of  the  follow- 
ing details  are  derived  from  the  Report  on  the  Municipal  Corpo- 
rations of  Scotland. 

Historical  Notices. — It  has  been  conjectured  that  Agricola's 
army  encamped  on  Dunearn  Hill,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  flat 
piece  of  ground,  surrounded  with  an  immense  number  of  loose 
stones,  called,  according  to  the  former  account,  Agricola's  camp 
or  garrison.  It  is  certain  that  that  General  explored  the  north 
coast  of  tjie  Frith  of  Forth,  directing  his  attention  particularly  to 
the  harbours.  "  Portus  classe  exploravit  trans  Bodotriam,"  says 
Tacitus,  in  the  22d  chapter  of  his  Life  of  Agricola.  He  could 
scarcely  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  natural  superiority  of  the  har- 
bour at  this  point,  and  may  be  reasonably  conjectured  to  have 
landed  here. 

Prior  to  1541,  the  town  of  Burntisland  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of 
Dunfermline.  It  was  then  exchanged  by  James  V,  for  some  lands 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  was  proclaimed  a  royal  burgh  in  1568. 
Before  the  Union,  it  seems  to  have  been  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.  About  1656,  Kingliorn,  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  Wemyss, 
Leven,  Ely,  St  Monance,  Pittenweem,  Anstruther,  Crail,  St  An- 
drews, and  South  Queensferry  were  all  counted  as  members  of  the 
head  port  of  Burntisland  ;  and  the  tonnage  of  the  whole  was  esti- 
mated at  1291  tons,  divided  over  46  vessels.  About  that  period, 
and  previously,  there  seems  to  have  been  considerable  intercourse 
between  this  port  and  Holland. 

In  May  1601,  the  General  Assembly  met  at  Burntisland.  On 
this  occasion,  James  VI.  renewed  his  vows  as  a  Covenanter.  Hav- 
ing confessed  the  errors  that  had  hitherto  characterized  his  go- 
vernment, he  vowed,  with  uplifted  hand,  that  he  would  adhere  to 
the  religion  presently  professed  in  the  realm  of  Scotland,  that  he 
would  oppose  the  efforts  of  its  adversaries,  and  be  more  faithful 
than  he  had  hitherto  been,  in  performing  all  the  duties  of  a  good 
and  Christian  King.  The  members  of  Assembly  also  vowed,  at 
his  request,  that  they  would  be  more  faithful  in  the  discharge  of 
their  respective  duties  ;  and,  that  the  people  might  be  aware  of  the 
good  understanding  between  him  and  the  church,  the  mutual  vow 
was  ordered  to  be  intimated  from  the  pulpits  on  the  following  Sab- 
bath.   At  this  Assembly,  the  King  also  suggested  the  propriety 


412 


FIFESHIRE 


of  revising  the  common  translation  of  the  Scriptures,  and  the  me- 
trical version  of  the  Psalms.  According  to  Spotswood,  the  speech 
which  he  made  on  the  occasion  "  bred  not  little  admiration  in  the 
whole  assembly."  "  But  ravished  as  they  were,"  says  Dr  M'Crie, 
"  and  proud  as  they  might  be  of  having  for  a  King  so  great  a  di- 
vine and  linguist  and  poet,  the  Assembly  did  not  think  fit  to  gra- 
tify his  Majesty  by  naming  him  on  the  committee;  but  recom- 
mended the  translation  of  the  Bible  to  such  of  their  own  number 
as  were  best  acquainted  with  the  original  languages,  and  the  cor- 
rection of  the  psalmody  to  Pont."* 

The  inhabitants  of  Burntisland  were  zealous  Covenanters.  In 
1638,  many  of  them  signified  their  adherence  to  the  National  Co- 
venant, as  the  kirk-session  records  testify,  "  with  tearis  of  great 
joy."  The  minister,  "  Mr  Johne  Mitchelsone,"  being  of  a  dif- 
ferent mind,  was  left  for  a  time  to  preach  to  empty  walls — "  13 
May — 20  May — 27  May — 3  Junii — 10  Junii — no  actionis,  be- 
cause the  people  goes  from  the  kirke  and  will  not  heir  the  minis- 
ter, seing  he  will  (not)  covenant  with  the  people  of  God."  In 
February  1 639,  he  was  deposed  for  contumacy  with  regard  to  the 
Covenant,  and  for  disowning  the  proceedings  of  the  celebrated 
Assembly  that  was  held  at  Glasgow. 

It  is  sai'd  that  the  town  capitulated  to  Cromwell  on  condition  of 
his  repairing  the  streets  and  the  harbour.  The  quays,  as  they  at 
present  stand,  were  accordingly  built  by  him ;  and  up  to  the  date 
of  last  Account,  no  repairs  had  been  added  to  those  which  he  ef- 
fected on  the  streets.  Some  years  ago,  the  old  pavement  was 
broken  up,  and  the  main  street  macadamized 

In  171.5,  the  town  was  occupied  by  the  Earl  of  Mar's  troops, 
who  found  the  harbour  very  advantageous  for  the  reception  of 
foreign  stores. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners  are,  Mrs  Aytoun  of  Inch- 
dairnie ;  the  Carron  Company ;  the  Heirs  of  the  late  Alexander 
Greenhill,  Esq.;  J.  G.  Drinkwater  Bethune,  Esq.of  Orrock;  James 
Bogie,  Esq. ;  The  Earl  of  Morton ;  Messrs  Young ;  the  Heirs  of 
Captain  Beatson  ;  and  Mrs  Pillans  of  Rossend. 

JEminent  Characters. — Mrs  Somerville,  whose  works  have  raised 
her  to  a  very  high  place  among  modern  writers  in  Natural  Philo- 
sophy, spent  part  of  her  youth  in  this  parish.  Craigholm,  towards 
the  east  end  of  the  links,  is  the  summer  residence  of  the  Rev.  Dr 
Chalmers. 

•  Life  of  Melville,  Vol.  ii.  173—175. 


BURNTISLAND. 


413 


Parochial  Bee/ i. 'tiers. —  The  session  records  commence  at  March 
1(502.  They  consist  of  eight  volumes,  and  have  for  the  most  part 
been  regidarly  kept.  Blanks  occur  from  1670  to  1672;  from 
1686  to  1693;  from  1711  to  1719;  and  from  1748  to  1769. 
From  1786  there  is  a  series  of  fragments  on  to  1821 ;  after  which 
period,  the  record  has  been  regularly  kept.  *  The  register  of 
births,  baptisms,  and  marriages  commences  at  1672,  and  is  con- 
tinued more  or  less  perfectly  to  the  present  time.  As  in  the 
session  records,  there  are  some  considerable  blanks.  At  va- 
rious periods,  a  record  of  deaths  has  been  kept,  but  it  is  very 
scanty.-f- 

Antiquities. — The  town  was  at  one  time  fortified.  On  the  south- 
east side  of  the  harbour,  part  of  the  walls  of  a  fort  is  still  standing; 
and  till  within  a  few  years  back,  traces  of  the  ancient  fortification 
were  discernible  on  the  small  eminence  in  the  north  side  of  the 
town.  At  Lamberlaws,  on  a  knoll  projecting  into  the  sea,  are  the 
traces  of  an  encampment  ascribed  to  Cromwell ;  in  consequence 
of  which,  the  name  of  Oliver's  knoll  has  sometimes  been  given  to 
the  locality.  Tn  the  same  situation,  there  appears  to  have  stood 
at  one  time  a  gallows  for  the  execution  of  criminals  under  the  feu- 
dal system.  In  allusion  to  this  circumstance,  the  locality  is  some- 
times called  Gallows  Knoll. 

On  an  eminence  overhanging  the  harbour  stands  Rossend  Cas- 
tle, erected,  it  would  seem,  at  some  period  in  the  fifteenth  century, 
by  Dury  of  that  Ilk.  Sibbald,  in  his  History  of  Fife,  states,  that 
"  in  the  chartulary  of  Dunfermling,  (to  Avhich  abbacy  this  town, 
castle,  and  harbour  belonged,)  there  is  a  grant  by  George  Durie, 

•  Since  1616,  there  appear  to  have  been  sixteen  ministers  of  the  parish,  the  aver- 
age duration  of  their  ministry  being  nearly  fourteen  years.  One  of  them,  "  Mr 
Harie  Malcome,"  officiated  only  one  Sabbath  as  minister.  The  record,  after' giving 
an  account  of  his  admission  on  June  17th  1663,  has  the  following  entry  :  "  Sunday 
the  21  of  June,  our  minister,  Mr  Harie  Malcome,  preached  before  and  after  noone, 
&c.  He  went  awaye  on  Monday  in  the  morning  yrafter  to  his  father's,  and  came' 
never  back  againc  to  us,  for  his  father  presentlie  dieing  where  he  was  there  he  stayed 
and  suesidet  to  his  father's  church." 

t  Some  of  the  entries  are  of  a  striking  character:  "  Janr.  1737,  perished  in  a 
storm  near  ^    Andrew  Watt,  late  Provest  of  this  burgh,  and  with  him  in  the 

ship  also  perished  his  eldest  son  Andrew,  his  second  son,  William,  his  fourth  son, 
David.  Also  perished  with  them  Andrew  Boog,  son  to  George  Boog,  late  Bailie 
in  this  burgh.  Also  perished  with  them  James  Sinclair,  mariner  in  this  town,  also 
other  four  youths."—-'  1739,  May  10th,  being  Thursday  about  three  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  perished  in  the  water  within  the  harbour,  (the  sea  being  in  Within  twenty 
or  thirty  yards  of  the  Iron-crag  towards  the  south-west  of  it,  John'Aitken,  David 
Laverock,  and  Gouvlie,  all  belonging  to  Kinghorn,  their  fathers  still  living 

there,  and  Andrew  Thomson,  carpenter,  at  present  living  here  (!)  All  four  young 
men,  below  thirty  years  of  age  the  eldest.    An  awful  Providence  !" 


414 


FIFESHIRK. 


comnicndater  of  Dunfermling,  and  Archdeacon  of  St  Andrews,  to 
Robert  Durie  of  that  Ilk,  of  our  lands  of  Nether  Grange  of  King- 
horn  Wester,  called  Le  Mains ;  together  with  the  keeping  of  the 
place  or  fort  of  the  same  ;  '  and  for  the  preserving  and  custody 
thereof,  we  dispone  heritably  our  lands  of  Grefland  and  Cuninger- 
land,  now  called  Brunt- Island,  within  our  shire  of  Kinghorn,  rega- 
lity of  Dunfermhng,  and  sheriffdom  of  Fife  dated  anno  1538." 
After  the  Reformation,  according  to  the  same  authority,  the  cas- 
tle was  given  first  to  Kirkcaldy  of  Grange,  then  to  Sir  Robert 
Melville  of  Carnie.  Since  that  period,  it  is  understood  to  have 
passed  through  the  hands  of  many  different  proprietors.  It  served 
as  head  quarters  to  the  detachment  of  the  Covenanters'  troops 
that  was  raised  in  this  part  of  the  country.  In  modern  times,  con- 
siderable additions  have  been  made  to  it.  It  is  surrounded  by 
plantations  and  garden  ground  ;  and  forms  a  fine  object  in  the 
foreground  of  the  rich  and  extensive  view  commanded  by  the  en- 
virons of  the  town. 

At  the  village  of  Kirktoun,  are  the  ruins  of  the  original  parish 
church,  surrounded  by  a  small  burying-ground.  The  date  of  its 
erection  is  unknown  ;  but  it  bears  the  marks  of  great  antiquity. 
On  a  small  eminence  at  Stenhouse,  in  the  north  -west  part  of  the 
parish,  stand  the  ruins  of  a  small  fort  or  castle,  called  Knockda- 
vie.  It  belonged  anciently  to  an  individual  of  the  name  of  Dou- 
glas, of  whom  some  notice  is  taken  in  "  The  Judgments  of  God 
on  Persecutors,"  appended  to  some  of  the  old  editions  of  the 
Scots  Worthies.  At  Balbee,  a  mile  and  a  half  eastward,  there 
existed  a  structure  somewhat  similar.  It  was  taken  down  about 
sixty  or  seventy  years  ago,  and  portions  of  the  fine  hewn  freestone 
of  which  it  was  built  may  still  be  seen  in  some  of  the  walls  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Near  the  same  place,  a  barrow  or  tumulus  was 
opened  fifty  years  ago,  when  some  square  stones  were  found,  ar- 
ranged in  the  form  of  a  coffin,  but  containing  no  particular  relics. 
There  appears  to  have  been  a  number  of  tumuli  in  the  same  neigh- 
bourhood. 

III. — Population. 

Population  in  ]R11,  (seamen  included,)  2000 
1821,  2180 
1831,  2399 


BURNTISLAND. 


415 


The  following  abstract  of  the  population  was  drawn  up  by  Mr 
.Davidson,  the  burgh  schoolmaster,  in  1831  : — 


0 

0 

to  15 

0 

(M 

0 
■«-» 

0 

CO 

0 

to  40 

to  50 

to  60 

to  70 

0  C 

X>  Oi 
0  0 

Ages  of  males. 

u 

•a 
a 

4-1 
»o 

B 
0 

u 

0 

a 
0 

S 

© 

(N 

B 
0 

0 
m 

S 
0 

u 

a 
0 

u 

0 

B 
0 

0 

B 

0 

BB 

0 . 0 

VI 

"a 

P. 

fen 

0 
Eh 

IBurntislandj 
Kiiktoun, 

116120 
16;  17 
22!  24 

10 
17 

86 
6 
12 

128 
15 
35 

ou 
12 
24 

87 
11 
19 

57 
2 

10 

4o 

0 

1 

24  7 

8CS 
91 

1  /O 

Total  males, 

154 

134 

104jl78 

122 

Tl7 

69 

54 

25  0 

1127 

Ages  females. 
Burntisland, 
Kirktoim, 
Country, 

101 

22 
18 

12P 
1£ 
17 

107 
10 
22 

83 
4 
11 

162 
IJ 
30 

U7 
14 

23 

113  84 

s;  7 

18  3 

75 
7 

6 

33  7 

l| 

5' 
_l_ 

[010 
99 
163 

Total  females, 

141 

170 

139 

98|203 

154 

139| 

94 

88 

39j  7 

1272 

Male  and  fem,  293'331 

■273  202  381 

270 

256163142 

6416 

2399 

Exclusive  of  seamen  not  constantly  resident,  the  whole  population  was  found 

to  be              -          -             -             -  .            .  2366 

Of  which  number  there  resided  in  the  town,                 .  ^  .               ]  342 

In  the  village  of  Kirktoun,                  -                  .  _                   ]  gg 

And  in  the  landward  part  of  the  parish,                 .  _  335 

The  number  of  families  was            -              -             _  .  537 

males  above  20,          ...  _  ^yjj 

under  20,                -                -  .  553 

houses                        -                  _  _  295 
Of  which  2  were  building,  and  24  uninhabited. 

Illegitimate  births  in  the  course  of  the  last  three  years,  .              .  g 

From  temporary  causes,  the  population  seems  to  have  been 
somewhat  greater  when  the  census  was  taken,  than  it  would  other- 
wise have  been.  There  has  since  been  a  considerable  decrease. 
According  to  a  census  taken  four  years  after  by  the  writer,  the 
number  of  families  was  found  to  be  500,  giving  a  population  of 
about  2100.  This  decrease  must  chiefly  be  attributed  to  the  o-reat 
failure  in  the  herring  fishery  during  the  last  five  years.  Emplo}- 
ment  having  thus  become  scarcer,  many  have  been  compelled  to 
seek  for  it  elsewhere.  It  has  also  happened,  that  several  families, 
not  dependent  on  trade,  have  removed  from  the  .parish  since  the 
Government  census  was  taken,  while  others  in  similar  circumstan- 
ces have  not  come  in  to  occupy  their  place. 

The  average  number  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  may  be  slated  at  fir. 

proclamations,  .  .  jg 

deaths,  .  _  -  34 

Twelve  of  the  heritors  are  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly 
value  of  L.  50  and  upwards.  Of  these  only  three  are  resident, 
viz.  the  Messrs  Young,  who  occupy  the  elcgant  residences  of  Col- 
linswell,  Grange,  and  Newbigging. 


416 


I'll-'ESHIRE. 


There  are  four  fatuous  persons  in  the  parish,  one  insane,  and 
one  or  two  bhnd. 

The  chief  game  is  golf, — the  hnks,  though  not  very  extensive, 
being  well  adapted  for  it.  A  golf  club  has  been  in  existence  up- 
wards of  forty  years. 

IV. — Industry. 
There  are  about  12900  imperial  acres  in  the  parish,*of  which 
from  400  to  500  are  in  pasture,  and  nearly  90  are  covered  with 
wood.  From  the  extent  of  rocky  surface,  there  is  a  considerable 
proportion  of  waste  land,  but  none  that  could  profitably  be  added 
to  what  is  already  in  cultivation.  Some  of  it,  however,  might  be 
advantageously  planted.  There  is  no  land  in  the  parish  in  undi- 
vided common. 

Rent  of  Land. — The  value  of  arable  land  varies  from  L.  1,  10s. 
up  to  L.  7  per  acre ;  the  average  rent  may  be  nearly  L.  3.  The 
rent  of  grazing  is  estimated  at  L.  3  for  an  ox  or  cow,  and  at  15s. 
for  a  sheep. 

Rate  of  Wages. — Farm-servants  receive  from  9s.  k^)  12s.  per 
week  ;  and  the  different  kinds  of  country  artisans  from  15s.  to  L.  1. 

Husbandry.— The  following  is  the  rotation  of  crops  adopted  in 
the  southern  and  more  fertile  part  of  the  parish  :— green  crop, 
succeeded  by  wheat,  barley,  or  oats ;  and  then  green  crop  of  a 
different  kind  from  what  has  been  two  years  before.    The  rota- 
tion in  the  more  northern  parts  is  as  follows :— green  crop,  bar- 
ley or  oats,  and  sometimes  wheat ;  sown  grass,  one,  two,  or  three 
years  ;  then  oats.    The  system  of  husbandry  may  be  regarded  as 
carried  in  some  parts  of  the  parish  to  great  perfection.    Within  a 
few  years,  some  waste  land  has  been  reclaimed,  and  great  improve- 
ments have  been  effected  by  liming  and  draining.     The  farm- 
steadings  are,  for  the  most  part,  in  excellent  order  ;  but  there  is 
in  some  quarters,  a  great  want  of  fences,  and  on  this  account  there 
is  little  or  no  pasture  in  the  most  fertile  district  of  the  parish. 
The  usual  period  of  a  lease  is  nineteen  years.    The  cattle  are  ge- 
nerally of  the  Fife  breed,  and  the  sheep  of  the  Cheviot  breed. 

Produce.— \t  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the  gross  produce  of  the 
parish  ;  but  the  real  rental  being  about  L.  4800,  should  give  an 
average  of  about  L.  14,000. 

Corn-Mills.— these  there  are  two,  both  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  town.  One  of  them  is  driven  by  the  sea,  and  can 
work  on  an  average  about  fourteen  hours  per  day. 

Distillery.— Theve,  is  an  extensive  distillery  at  Grange,  about 
half  a-mile"to  the  northward  of  the  town  ;  11,000  quarters  of  malt. 


BURNTISLAND. 


417 


the  quantity  which  it  annually  consumes,  yield  185,000  gallons  of 
proof  spirits,  the  duty  on  which  amounts  of  itself  to  about  L.  36,000 ; 
or  nearly  L.  100  per  day.  About  700  head  of  cattle  are  annually 
fed  in  connection  with  this  distillery,  which  at  L,  15,  10s.  per  head, 
will  produce  L.  10,830.  The  proprietors  of  this  work  employ  re- 
gularly about  100  men  and  50  horses.  Notwithstanding  the  na- 
ture of  their  employment,  the  men,  in  general,  are  sober  and  steady. 

Herring  fishery  and  curing. — The  herring  fishery  commenced 
about  1793,  and  from  that  period  till  about  1805,  was  carried  on 
only  in  the  Frith  during  the  winter  season.  The  curers  then  be- 
gan to  send  boats  during  summer  to  the  northern  fishing  stations, 
and  for  many  years  the  trade  was  very  prosperous.  At  its  most 
flourishing  period,  as  many  as  500  vessels  might  be  seen  at  once  in 
the  harbour,  all  either  connected  directly  with  the  fishery,  or  em- 
ployed in  the  exportation  of  herrings.  The  trade  has  now  greatly 
declined,  there  having  been  no  winter  fishing  for  the  last  five  years. 
At  present,  there  are  eight  curing  establishments  which  send  out  to 
the  northern  fishery  between  70  and  80  boats,  most  of  which 
belong  to  other  ports  in  the  Frith.  The  greater  part  of  them  go 
to  Wick,  the  rest  to  Fraserburgh  and  Rosehearty.  The  middle  of 
July  is  the  time  at  which  they  usually  set  out,  and  they  return  in 
about  two  months.  Each  boat  carries  five  men,  so  that  during 
two  months  in  the  year,  Burntisland  employs  in  this  way  about  400 
men.  A  number  more  are  employed  in  the  sloops  which,  to  the 
number  of  8  or  10,  ply  during  the  same  period  between  this  port 
and  the  fishing  stations,  carrying  out  barrels  and  salt,  and  bringing 
home  the  herrings  that  have  been  taken.  From  200  to  250  cranes, 
(a  crane  being  equal  to  a  barrel,)  are  considered  to  be  the  com- 
plement of  each  boat.  For  some  years,  there  have  been  annually 
cured  from  16,000  to  18,000  barrels,  which,  at  L.  1,  the  average 
price  per  barrel,  will  give  the  same  number  of  pounds.  About  36 
hands,  including  apprentices,  are  constantly  employed  as  coopers; 
and  about  60  females  are  occasionally  employed  in  the  curing  of 
the  herrings.  The  occupation  is  cold  and  disagreeable ;  but  even 
this  cannot  warrant  a  pernicious  practice  that  has  long  prevailed,  of 
giving  daily  to  those  engaged  in  it,  and  some  of  these  are  young 
females,  a  considerable  quantity  of  undiluted  spirits. 

Whale  fishing  Company. —  This  company  commenced  operations 
in  1830,  and  from  that  period  have  annually  sent  out  two  vessels, 
one  of  377  tons,  and  the  other  of  311, — each  of  which  carries  50 
men.    Last  season,  both  returned  clean  ;  but  from  1830  to  1835, 

FIFE.  D  d 


418 


riFESlIIRE, 


t\icif  cargoes  produced  1112  tons  of  oil,  and  56  tons  of  bones. 
During  that  period,  the  wages  and  oil  money  paid  to  the  crews  of 
both  vessels  amounted  to  upwards  of  L.  14,400  Sterling;  and  up- 
wards of  L.  1300  was  paid  for  labourage,  landing  cargoes,  prepar- 
ino-  the  oil,  and  cleaning  the  bone.  Twelve  oilmen  and  coopers  are 
employed  in  the  work,  and  from  twelve  to  fifteen  women  in  cleaning 
the  bone.  The  late  Sir  John  Leslie,  in  a  report  on  the  subject, 
gives  the  following  account  of  the  method  devised  and  carried  into 
efiect  bv  Mr  Farnie,  for  destroying  the  fetid  vapours  emitted  dur- 
ino-  the  manufacture  of  the  oil.  "  The  boiler  is  very  large,  and 
completely  covered  by  a  circle  of  thick  plank,  except  a  small  open- 
ing on  the  more  accessible  side,  to  receive  the  contents  of  the 
casks,  and  a  narrow  vent  in  another  part,  which  allows  a  current  of 
air  to  mingle  with  the  vapour,  and  sweep  over  the  surface  of  the 
heated  oil.  All  the  steaming  products  are  made  to  enter  into  a  re- 
verberatory  furnace,  and  pass  upwards  through  two  successive 
branders,  charged  with  coke  or  coal,  that  burn  with  an  intense 
white  heat.  On  the  same  level  with  the  branders,  are  three  small 
air-holes,  having  each  a  separate  flue  for  inciting  occasionally  the 
ardour  of  inflammation,  and  while  the  ebullition  advances,  the 
blubber  lying  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  constantly  turned  round 
by  an  agitator,  like  the  stirrer  of  a  large  still,  only  driven  by  the 
action  of  a  crank  fixed  near  the  side  of  the  boiler.  After  the  boil- 
ing is  finished,  and  the  oil  has  been  moderately  cooled,  it  is  drawn 
by  means  of  a  syphon  into  a  tank,  and  the  refuse  thrown  into  a 
covered  vault ;  every  operation  being  performed  under  the  same 
close  roof."  Sir  John  states  that  he  regards  the  operations  intro- 
duced by  this  company  "  as  an  invaluable  practical  invention,"  and 
expresses  his  belief  that  it  will  "  be  speedily  adopted  in  the  ma- 
itime  parts  of  the  empire,  and  thus  become  a  real  national  bles- 


r 


smg. 


Ship-Building. — In  the  building  and  repairing  of  vessels,  30 
men  are  at  present  employed ;  at  former  periods,  there  have  been 
as  many  as  100.  The  largest  vessel  ever  built  here  was  one  of 
443  tons.  . 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Town. — The  nearest  market-town  is  Kirkcaldy,  six  miles 
distant.    The  only  village  in  the  parish  is  Kirktoun. 

j]urgh. —  The  town-council  consists  of  21,  while  only  31  bur- 
gesses are  qualified  to  be  elected  ;  but  this  is  one  of  the  burghs  the 
number  of  whose  councillors  it  is  proposed  to  reduce.    It  unites 


BURNTISLAND. 


419 


with  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  and  Kinghorn,  in  returning  a  Member  to 
Parliament.  The  number  of  voters  is  48.  Within  the  parliamentary 
boundaries,  there  are  66  persons  whose  rents  in  property  or  tenantry 
amount  to  L.  10  per  annum  and  upwards,  and  of  these  35  are  bur- 
gesses.   Within  the  same  boundaries,  there  are  53  persons  Avhose 
rents  amount  to  L.  5,  and  are  under  L.  10;  and  of  these  9  are 
burgesses.    Besides  the  guildry,  amounting  to  82,  inclusive  of  7 
non-resident,  there  are  6  incorporated  trades,  viz.  hammermen, 
tailors,  weavers,  fleshers,  shoemakers,  bakers.    All  these  corpora- 
tions, together  with  a  rather  wealthy  institution  called  the  Prime- 
Guild  Society,  which  consists  of  ship-owners  and  others  connect- 
ed with  the  sea-faring  line,  are  possessed  of  seats  in  the  parish 
church  ;  and  it  must  be  added,  that  some  of  these  bodies  wring  out 
as  high  seat  rents  as  possible  from  the  pockets  of  the  parishioners. 
A  number  of  seats  are  also  possessed  by  the  town. 

3Ieatis  of  Communication. — There  is  a  regular  post  -office,  the 
revenue  of  which  amounted,  some  years  ago,  to  about  L.  300;  but, 
from  the  decay  of  trade,  is  now  understood  to  fall  short  of  that 
sum.    The  communication  with  Edinburgh,  by  means  of  the  post, 
is  twice- a-day.    There  are  about  five  miles  of  turnpike  road,  but 
no  public  carriages  travel  regularly  through  any  part  of  the  parish. 
The  Dundee  and  Perth  coaches  come  occasionally  this  way,  when 
the  weather  is  too  severe  to  admit  of  the  passengers  embarking  at 
Pettycur.    This  being  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Fife  and  Mid- 
Lothian  ferries,  there  is  regular  communication  by  steam  with 
Newhaven ;  but  great  complaints  are  made  of  the  extravagance  of  the 
fares,  which  are  2s.  in  the  cabin,  and  Is.  6d.  steerage, — very  high 
rates,  it  must  be  allowed,  for  a  distance  short  of  six  miles.  In 
addition  to  the  steam-vessels,  there  are  large  sailing-boats  which 
ply  at  tide  time  every  lawful  day,  and  are  principally  employed  in 
carrying  goods,  &c. 

Harbour,  S)C. — The  opinion  anciently  entertained  of  the  excel- 
lence of  the  harbour  may  be  learned  from  the  name  "  Portasgra- 
tice"  or  "  Partus  salutis"  by  which  it  is  designated  in  some  of  the 
chartersof  the  burgh.    It  is  still  reckoned  the  best  in  the  frith,  being 
easily  entered,  as  well  as  very  capacious  and  secure  ;  and  at  full 
tide  of  great  depth.  Its  latitude  is  56°  3'  20",  its  longitude  3°  15'. 
The  distance  between  the  lighthouse  on  tlie  pier  and  that  on  the 
pier  at  Newhaven  is  five  miles  and  a  third  nearly,  as  found  by  ac- 
curate observations.    In  1833,  the  vessels  belonging  to  this  port 
were  eight,  and  their  tonnage  900. 


420 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  extension  of  the  piprs  would  be  a  vast  improvement,  and 
could  be  effected  at  a  moderate  expense,  as  the  necessary  mate- 
rials are  abundant  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  other  natural  fa- 
cilities are  great.    Were  this  effected,  the  harbour  could  easily 
be  entered  at  any  state  of  the  tide.    With  reference  to  the  im- 
provement of  the  ferry,  Sir  Thomas  Telford  has  suggested  the 
construction  of  a  landing-pier  a  little  to  the  eastward.    In  his  re- 
port on  the  subject,  he  gives  a  decided  preference  to  Burntisland 
as  a  landing-  place  on  the  north  shore  of  the  frith, — stating,  that 
"  whether  the  expense  of  construction,  or  the  distance,  facility, 
and  regularity  of  passage,  is  considered,  it  appears  quite  clear  that 
Burntisland  should  be  adopted."—"  It  is,  indeed,"  he  says,  "  most 
fortunate  that  a  place  so  well  calculated  should  afford  the  shortest 
passage,  and  be  otherwise  so  favourably  situated." 

Dock. —  Connected  with  the  harbour  is  a  dry  dock  belonging 
to  Mr  Farnie.  It  is  200  feet  in  length,  the  width  of  the  gates  is 
44  feet,  and  the  depth  of  water  at  high  spring  tides  16|  feet. 
The  gates  are  of  a  peculiar  construction,  being  circular  in  the 
bottom.  A  Russian  frigate  of  1000  tons,  and  the  steam-ship,  the 
United  Kingdom,  are  the  largest  vessels  that  have  ever  been  in 
this  dock. 

Boadstead.—T\\e  roadstead  of  Burntisland  possesses  great  ad- 
vantages, and  is  accordingly  much  resorted  to  in  stormy  weather. 
The  anchorage  is  good ;  there  is  great  depth  of  water  very  near 
the  shore ;  and  ample  shelter  is  afforded  by  the  high  ground  to 
the  north,  and  by  the  sand-bank  to  the  east,  which  projects  a  con- 
siderable way  into  the  sea. 

At  Starly-burn  there  is  a  small  harbour  where  the  limestone  be- 
long ing  to  the  Carron  Company  is  shipped,  and  where  vessels  occa- 
sionally take  in  water,  of  which  there  is  a  copious  supply.  For  this 
latter  purpose,  it  was  frequently  resorted  to  by  the  King's  ships 
during  the  last  war.  About  half  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the 
town,  there  is  also  a  pier  for  the  shipping  of  lime. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  parish  church  stands  on  the  ridge 
which  rises  from  the  sea.  It  was  built  in  1592,  on  the  model,  it 
is' understood,  of  the  North  Church  of  Amsterdam,  and  is  thus  an 
iijdication  of  the  ancient  intercourse  which  subsisted  between  this 
port  and  Holland.  It  was  erected,  not  by  the  heritors,  but  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  who  began  to  find  it  inconvenient  to 
go  over  to  the  old  church  at  Kirktoun.  They  asked  nothing  of 
the  heritors  but  their  consent ;  and,  as  an  inducement,  offered  them 


BURNTISLAND. 


421 


their  due  proportion  of  seats,  taking  the  whole  burden,  not  only  of 
building,  but  also  of  repairing  on  themselves.  They  reared,  ac- 
cordingly, a  substantial  square  edifice,  surmounted  by  a  tower,  the 
height  of  which  is  not  proportioned  to  its  thickness ;  but  want  of 
funds  is  understood  to  have  prevented  it  from  lifting  its  head  so 
high  as  was  contemplated.  Though  situated  on  the  boundary  of 
the  parish,  and  distant  about  three  miles  from  its  northern  ex- 
tremities, the  church  is  perfectly  convenient  for  the  great  mass  of 
the  population.  It  is  at  present  in  a  good  state  of  repair,  and  af- 
fords accommodation  for  900  or  upwards,  but  might  easily  be 
made  to  accommodate  a  hundred  or  two  more,  as  the  area  is  very 
uneconomically  seated.  In  the  former  Account,  it  is  stated  as  a 
fact  well  known  in  this  place,  that  it  once  held  within  its  walls 
bet  ween  3000  and  4000  Hessians,  who  were  lying  encamped  near 
the  town  in  1746. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1824,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  best 
in  Scotland.  The  glebe  consists  of  5  Scots  acres,  and  is  let  at  a 
yearly  rent  of  L.  35.  There  is  no  grass  glebe,  but  the  sum  of 
L.  15  Sterling  is  allowed  in  lieu  of  it.  The  stipend  is  mostly 
payable  in  money,  and  amounts  to  about  L.  190. 

There  is  a  chapel  in  the  parish  in  connection  with  the  United 
Secession  Synod.  The  minister  is  paid  out  of  the  seat  rents,  and 
his  stipend  is  understood  to  be  L.  100.  An  assistant  and  succes- 
sor is  about  to  be  appointed,  when  it  is  proposed  that  the  former 
shall  receive  L.  60,  and  the  latter  L.  80.  A  house  belonging  to 
the  congregation  forms  part  of  the  living  of  the  minister. 

Taking  500  as  the  number  of  families,  about  330  of  these  be- 
long to  the  Established  Church,  and  the  rest,  with  very  few  ex- 
ceptions, to  the  United  Secession.  A  very  small  number  are 
connected  with  no  religious  denomination,  and  there  are  three  or 
four  Roman  Catholics.  Divine  service  is  respectably  attended  both 
at  the  parish  church,  and  at  the  dissenting  meeting-house  ;  at  both 
it  might  be  better.  The  average  number  of  communicants  at  the 
Established  Church  is  about  400.  In  connection  with  the  congre- 
gation of  the  parish  church,  there  is  a  society  in  support  of  the 
missions,  &c.  of  the  Church  of  Scotland.  As  it  is  but  of  recent 
origin,  it  would  be  premature  to  conjecture  the  amount  of  its  an- 
nual contributions.  The  collections  at  the  parish  church  for  re- 
ligious and  charitable  purposes  may  be  stated  as  averaging  for  some 
years  between  L.  20  and  L.  30  per  annum.  This  is  exclusive  of 
the  ordinary  collections  for  the  poor,  which  amount  in  the  year  to 


422 


FIFBSHIIIK. 


between  L.  60  and  L.  70.  The  sum  realized  during  the  last  two 
years. and  a-half  for  religious  purposes,  including  collections,  a 
subscription  for  church  extension,  and  the  contributions  already 
obtained  by  the  society  in  connection  with  the  parish  church,  falls 
very  little  short  of  L.  130.* 

Education. — There  are  in  all  seven  schools  in  the  parish ;  but 
five  of  these  are  small,  and  four  of  them  are  taught  by  females. 
There  is  no  parochial  school.    The  burgh  school  has  always  been 
under  the  direction  of  the  magistrates  and  council,  and  the  teacher 
is  appointed  by  them.   His  salary  is  L.  37  a-year,  and  is  paid  out 
of  the  burgh  revenue.    The  regulated  fees  are,  for  English  read- 
ing, 2s.  per  quarter;  do.  with  writing,  2s.  6d. ;  with  arithmetic, 
4s.  6d. ;  Latin,  with  Greek,  French,  arithmetic,  mathematics,  Eng- 
lish grammar,  geography,  6s.  per  quarter ;  navigation  and  book- 
keeping, L.  1,  Is.  per  course.  These  fees  have  been  the  same  for  the 
last  twenty  years.    All  regulations  for  the  school  are  made  under 
the  sanction  and  control  of  the  magistrates.    There  are  certain 
lands  in  the  parish  mortified  by  a  Mr  Watson,  and  a  house  and 
garden  in  the  burgh,  for  behoof  of  the  schoolmaster  and  three  poor 
widows.    Each  of  the  widows  has  an  allotment  in  the  house,  and 
each  a  third  of  the  garden.    The  land  is  let  to  a  tenant  at  the 
money  rent  of  L.  18,  10s.,  and  34  bolls  of  barley  and  6  bolls  of 
oatmeal  yearly,  the  growth  of  the  lands ;  and  if  he  has  no  barley 
on  the  lands,  he  is  bound  to  pay  the  highest  Mid- Lothian  fiar  prices 
for  the  barley  and  oatmeal.    Ten  bolls  of  the  barley,  and  one- 
fourth  of  the  money  rent  are  paid  to  the  schoolmaster,  for  which 
he  is  obliged  to  teach  as  many  poor  children  belonging  to  the  town 
and  parish  as  the  magistrates  recommend,  at  the  rate  of  Is.  6d.  per 
quarter,  the  number  of  scholars  not  to  exceed,  at  this  rate,  the 
sum  he  may  draw  yearly.    The  rest  of  the  barley,  oatmeal,  and 
money  rent,  is  divided  equally  among  the  three  widows.f 

The  average  number  attending  all  the  schools  is  not  much  short 
of  300,  which,  taking  the  population  at  2100,  gives  about  one- 
seventh  attending  school.    The  people  in  general  seem  alive  to 

•  The  following  extract  from  the  session  records  may  be  given  as  affording  a  spe- 
cimen of  the  kiiul  of  collections  that  were  frequently  made  in  Scotland  a  century  or 
two  a"-o.  "  December  1 1th  1659.— The  minister  does  (by  ordour  of  the  synode) 
intimat  from  ye  pulpit  (being  condescendit  upon  by  ye  sessione)  a  voluiitarie  contri- 
butione  to  be  collected  aflernoone  at  ye  incoming  to  ye  afternoone  sermone  for  ye 
toune  of  St  Andros,  for  repairing  and  helping  up  yr  shore  wh  was  leaked  onnc  by  a 
vehement  storme,  wh  is  to  be  collected  thorou  all  ye  chruches  in  this  presbetrie.  and 
are  exhorted  to  charelie." 

\  Municipal  Corporations'  Report. 


BURNTISLAND. 


423 


the  benefits  of  education.  Very  few  above  six  or  seven  are  unable 
to  read,  and  most  can  both  read  and  write.  There  are  two  Sun- 
day schools,  besides  a  class  connected  with  the  congregation  of  the 
parish  church'. 

Literature. —  There  is  a  subscription  library  of  between  fjOO  and 
600  volumes.  Along  with  the  proportion  of  trash  which  is  usual- 
ly found  in  such  libraries,  it  contains  a  good  deal  of  the  standard 
literature  of  the  country.  It  has  not,  of  late,  been  in  a  very  nour- 
ishing condition.  There  is  also  a  parish  library,  chiefly  for  the  be- 
nefit of  the  poorer  classes  and  of  the  young.  It  consists  of  about 
300  volumes,  chiefly  of  a  religious  nature.  The  books  are  given 
out  gratis,  and  the  number  of  readers,  both  old  and  young,  is  very 
considerable. 

Charitable  Institutions. — Watson's  mortification,  already  men- 
tioned, is  the  only  thing  in  the  shape  of  an  endowment  for  the 
poor.  In  January  1829,  a  society  was  formed  called  "  The  Burnt- 
island Funeral  Insurance  Society."  It  is  divided  into  three  classes ; 
the  first,  including  those  who  insure  a  sum  of  money  to  be  paid  at 
their  death ;  the  second,  those  who  insure  a  sum  to  be  paid  at  the 
death  of  their  wives  or  husbands ;  and  the  third,  those  who  insure 
a  sum  to  be  paid  at  the  death  of  any  of  their  children  under  eight- 
een years  of  age.  Any  person  qualified  may  enter  any  one  or 
more  of  these  classes.  By  the  original  regulations,  it  is  provided 
that  persons  under  forty  years  of  age  shall  pay  2s.  and  those  above 
that  age  4s.  on  their  admission  as  members ;  and  that  at  each  quar- 
terly meeting,  each  member  of  one  class  shall  pay  3d. ;  each  mem- 
ber of  two  classes,  6d. ;  and  each  member  of  three  classes,  9d.  On 
the  death  of  a  member  of  the  first  or  second  class,  L.  5  may  be 
drawn  from  the  funds  of  the  society  by  the  party  having  a  right ; 
and  on  the  death  of  a  child  of  a  member  of  class  third,  if  under 
three  months,  L.  1,  10s.  maybe  drawn;  if  above  that  age  and 
under  three  years,  L.  2;  if  between  three  and  eighteen  years,  L.  3. 
On  these  regulations  some  slight  changes  have  been  made,  the 
sums  payable  on  the  death  of  members  being  now  somewhat  smaller. 
This  sociefy  has  proved  of  considerable  benefit  to  the  working 
classes,  and  now  numbers  upwards  of  300  members. 

There  is  no  savings  bank  in  the  parish.  An  attempt  was  made 
to  establish  one,  some  years  ago,  but  it  unfortunately  failed. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  number  at  pre.sent  on  the 
poor's  roll  is  35.  Individuals  receive  6d.  Is.  or  Is.  6d.  per  week, 
according  to  their  circumstances, — some,  who  have  children  to  sup- 


424 


FIFESHIRE. 


port,  receive  larger  sums.  The  highest  allowance  at  present  is  3s. 
The  funds  arise  from  the  collections  at  the  church  door,  which 
may  be  stated  at  L.  65  ;  from  proclamations  which,  at  2s.  6d.  each, 
yield  from  L.  2  to  L.  2,  5s.  per  annum ;  and  from  a  voluntary  as- 
sessment on  the  part  of  the  landward  heritors  to  the  extent  of  L.  50, 
the  whole  of  which,  however,  has  not  for  some  time  been  realized. 
For  a  year  or  two,  these  funds  haA'e  proved  insufficient  to  meet  the 
demands  made  upon  them,  and  the  kirk-session  have  been  under 
the  necessity  of  calling  upon  the  heritors  to  renew  their  contribu- 
tion before  the  expiry  of  the  annual  term.  On  account  of  the  de- 
cay of  trade,  and  the  consequent  lack  of  employment,  pauperism 
has  been,  for  some  time,  decidedly  on  the  increase.  Among  many 
of  the  poor,  there  is  very  little  reluctance  to  apply  for  parochial  aid. 
There  are  some  honourable  exceptions ;  but  the  old  Scottish  spi- 
rit of  independence  is  gradually  disappearing.  Instances  also  oc- 
cur of  extreme  unwillingness  to  contribute  towards  the  maintenance 
of  infirm  or  aged  relatives.  As  yet,  the  spirit  of  beneficence  is  far 
from  being  dormant  in  the  breasts  of  the  wealthier  classes.  The 
amount  of  private  charity  is  considerable  ;  and  subscriptions  are  oc- 
casionally made  to  meet  cases  of  peculiar  destitution.  Coals,  pro- 
cured in  this  way,  are  generally  distributed  in  the  winter  season  ; 
and  to  the  liberality  of  James  Strange,  Esq.  and  his  household,  by 
whom  Rossend  Castle  has  for  some  years  been  occupied  during  the 
summer  months,  have  the  poor  been  indebted  for  a  seasonable  sup- 
ply of  this  necessary  article,  in  the  course  of  the  present  and  two 
preceding  winters. 

Jail — The  jail  of  Burntisland  is  neither  large  nor  commodious ; 
but  there  are  seldom  any  prisoners. 

The  following  statement  of  the  number  of  civil  and  criminal 
causes  tried  by  the  magistrates  from  1820  to  1833  inclusive,  is 
taken  from  the  Report  on  Municipal  Corporations  in  Scotland. 


Civil 

Criminal 

Civil 

Criminal 

Year. 

causes. 

causes. 

Year. 

cavses. 

causes. 

1820, 

6 

2 

1827, 

25 

4 

1821, 

6 

2 

1828, 

10 

0 

1822, 

13 

1 

1829, 

18 

0 

1823, 

5 

1 

1830, 

15 

0 

1824, 

14 

1 

1831, 

4 

3 

1825, 

6 

1 

1832, 

16 

10 

1826, 

15 

4 

1833, 

20 

2 

InnSf  Sfc. — 

There 

are  2  respectable  inns. 

and  15 

or  16  ale- 

houses,  which,  as  in  most  other  places,  have  an  injurious  effect  ou 
the  morals  of  the  people. 


3 


BURNTISLAND. 


425 


Fair. — A  fair  is  annually  held  in  the  town  on  the  10th  day  of 
July. 

Fuel. — The  chief  fuel  is  coal,  which  is  brought  principally  from 
Lochgelly  and  the  neighbourhood,  about  six  or  eight  miles  distant. 
The  price  is  from  9s.  to  10s.  6d.  per  ton,  including  tolls  and  car- 
riage. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

Since  the  date  of  last  Account,  both  the  town  and  the  landward 
district  have  undergone  great  improvements.  For  a  number  of 
years,  the  town  has  been  a  favourite  watering-place.  The  pure 
air,  the  good  bathing-ground,  the  agreeable  and  extensive  walks, 
the  rich  and  varied  scenery,  together  with  the  facility  of  commu- 
nication with  Edinburgh,  attract  annually  a  great  number  of  visi- 
tors ;  so  that,  between  June  and  October,  the  town  assumes  a  much 
more  animated  appearance  than  during  the  remainder  of  the  year. 
There  is  good  accommodation  for  visitors,  at  rates  varying  from  a 
small  sum  up  to  fifteen  or  twenty  guineas  per  month.  The  vitriol 
work,  which  was  in  operation  when  the  last  Statistical  Account  was 
written,  has  been  long  suspended,  and  the  premises  have  been  con- 
verted into  cottages  for  the  summer  visitors. 

The  country  part  of  the  parish  is  in  a  much  higher  state  of  cul- 
tivation than  it  was  forty  years  ago.  The  farms  are  large,  and  the 
country  population  is  consequently  smaller.  In  this,  as  in  many 
parishes,  a  want  of  hands  is  sometimes  experienced  in  harvest, — 
many  who  formerly  inhabited  rural  districts  having  been  attracted 
to  towns  by  the  thriving  state  of  manufactures.  Would  it  not  be 
for  the  advantage  of  all  parties,  if  proprietors  were  to  erect  cot- 
tages, or  give  greater  facilities  for  feuing,  or  otherwise  encourage 
labourers  and  their  families  to  settle  in  the  country  ?  This  would 
be  preferable  in  many  ways  to  the  system  of  bothies  ;  and  we  should 
look  for  a  much  healthier  state  of  the  communitv,  both  in  a  moral 
and  an  economical  point  of  view,  were  the  proportion  of  the  rural 
to  the  town  population  much  higher  than  it  is. 

December  1836. 


PARISH  OF  LOGIE. 


IMIKSBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  JTIFE. 

THE  REV.  ANDREW  MELVILLE,  MINISTEJf. 


I.  TOPOGKAPHY  AND   NaTURAL  HiSTORY. 

Name. —  The  name  of  this  parish  is  supposed  to  be  Gaelic,  si<y- 
uityiug  a  hollow  arnonghills.  This  is  descriptive  of  the  place  in  which 
the  church  is  situated.  The  name  Logie  is  frequently  conjoined 
with  some  other  name  or  epithet,  referring  probably  either  to 
something  peculiar  in  the  situation  of  the  place,  or  to  some  per- 
son particularly  connected  with  it; — as  Logie  Almond,  Blair  Lo- 
gie, Logierait.  This  parish  was  anciently  called  Logie  Mur- 
doch. 

Extent,  Bo7.mdaries,  Sj-c. — Its  length  is  nearly  4  miles,  its  breadth 
from  1  to  and  consequently  it  contains  from  4  to  5  square 
miles.  Its  figure  is  an  irregular  oblong,  bounded  on  the  east  by 
the  parishes  of  Forgan  and  Leuchars  ;  on  the  south,  by  Leuchars 
and  Dairsie  ;  on  the  west  and  north,  by  Kilmany.  It  occupies  the 
south-eastern  extremity  of  that  range  of  high  land  which,  rising 
to  the  northward  of  Stirling  under  the  name  of  the  Ochil  hills, 
stretches  eastward,  gradually  sinking  in  elevation,  till  it  terminates 
in  the  plain,  which  bounds  the  bay  of  St  Andrews  between  the 
Frith  of  Tay  and  the  estuary  of  the  river  Eden,  Its  surface  is 
irregular  and  hilly.  But  none  of  the  hills  rise  to  more  than  500 
or  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  highest,  which  is  in 
the  east  end  of  the  parish,  is  called  Inchlawhill,  about  5  miles  from 
the  shore  of  the  German  ocean. 

Meteorology. — No  accurate  meteorological  accounts  have  been 
kept  here.  The  air  is  colder,  the  snow  falls  deeper  and  lies  long- 
er than  in  the  adjacent  low  country,  but  not  so  much  as  materi- 
ally to  retard  the  operations  of  agriculture  in  spring,  or  the  ripen- 
ing of  the  crops  in  autumn.  The  prevailing  wind  in  spring,  and  in 
the  beginning  of  summer,  is  east  and  north-east,  frequently  dry  but 
cold,  and  hurtful  to  vegetation  ;  blowing  probably  from  the  snow- 
clad  mountains  of  Norway,  and  not  much  softened  by  its  short  pas- 


LOO  IE. 


427 


sage  across  the  German  ocean.  As  in  most  parts  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  lowlands  of  Scotland,  less  rain  falls  here  than  on'the 
western  coast.  This  seems  to  arise  from  the  rainy  clouds  which 
the  south-west  wind  brings  from  the  Atlantic  ocean,  being  emptied 
before  they  reach  this  side  of  the  Island,  and  there  being  no  land 
sufficiently  high  to  attract  the  clouds.  The  rainy  point  is  the 
south-east. 

Geology. — The  rock  of  which  the  hills  are  composed,  is  chiefly 
what  in  common  language  is  termed  whinstone.  The  highest  hill, 
however,  is  an  insulated  mass  of  porphyry  of  a  reddish  yellow  co- 
lour, apparently  resting  upon  a  bed  of  whinstone.  There  are  se- 
veral other  similar  masses  of  the  same  species  of  rock,  in  the  same 
range  of  hills  to  the  westward.  In  the  low  ground  to  the  north 
of  this  hill,  there  is  a  singular  bank  or  table-land  of  sand,  which 
was  formerly  surrounded  by  a  marsh  or  lake  ;  but  this  is  now  con- 
verted into  arable  land  by  draining.  The  top  of  this  bank  of  sand 
is  a  dead  level  of  at  least  60  acres.  It  is  of  a  circular  form ;  and 
the  sides,  except  on  the  east,  are  steep,  and  rise  to  a  height  of  70 
or  80  feet.  There  are  similar  banks  in  the  neighbourhood,  but 
none  of  them  are  so  well  defined  as  this.  They  have  very  much 
the  appearance  of  having  been  formed  by  water,  and  speculators 
in  geology  suppose  that  the  low  ground  here  has  been  covered  by 
a  lake  of  fresh  water,  in  which  these  banks  of  sand  were  formed.' 
They  conjecture  that  the  shore  of  the  sea  was  much  farther  easf 
than  it  is  now,  and  as  St  Abbs  Head,  the  Bell  Rock,  and  the 
Redhead  near  Arbroath,  are  composed  of  the  same  species  of  red 
sandstone,  they  are  probably  points  in  what  was  formerly  the  shore 
of  the  German  Ocean.  Certain  it  is,  that  at  St  Andrews  great 
encroachments  have  been  made  by  the  sea  upon  the  land  in  no 
long  period  of  time. 

Soil  — The  soil  of  a  considerable  portion  of  the  parish  is  moor- 
ish and  thin,  of  a  cold  tilly  quality.  Upon  the  sides  of  the  hills, 
however,  it  is  generally  of  a  good  fertile  loam. 

Botany. — Some  rare  plants  are  found  here, — such  as  the  Orni- 
tliogalum  luteum  or  yellow  star  of  Bethlehem  ;  Empetrum  nigrum, 
Sedum  rejlexwn,  Hypnum  dendroides,  Menyanthes  trifoliata,  Par- 
nassia  palustris,  Gymnadenia  conopseu.  A  good  deal  of  wood, 
chiefly  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  has  of  late  years  been  planted  on  one 
of  the  hills.  But  either  the  soil,  or  the  climate,  or  both  are  not 
favourable  fo  the  growth  of  these  trees,  for  they  soon  become 
much  covered  with  lichen  or  moss. 


428 


FII-'ESHIUE. 


Zuolof/i/. — No  rare  species  of  animal  or  insect  has  been  found 
here.  In  a  pretty  extensive  marsh  near  the  churcli,  there  used 
to  be  a  great  many  wild  ducks,  snipes,  green  plovers,  redshanks, 
and  in  winter,  wild  geese.  These  have  in  a  great  measure  disap- 
peared, in  consequence  of  its  having  been  drained.  The  open 
fields,  however,  are  still  much  frequented  by  wild  geese  in 
winter,  which  sometimes  do  considerable  damage  to  the  young 
wheat.  Partridges,  hares,  and  rabbits  abound,  and  there  are  a 
few  pheasants,  and  even  a  strayed  deer  is  sometimes  to  be  seen. 
Yet  poaching  is  seldom  heard  of,  except  when  a  poor  hare  makes 
a  false  step  into  a  snare  set  for  rabbits. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Eminent  Men. — The  only  person  of  eminence  in  literature  or 
science  known  to  have  belonged  to  this  parish,  is  John  West,  au- 
thor of  a  System  of  Mathematics,  much  esteemed  by  the  scientific 
world.  He  was  son  of  a  minister  who  lived  about  the  middle  of 
the  last  century.  Mr  West  became  an  Episcopal  clergyman  in 
the  Island  of  Jamaica,  and  died  a  few  years  ago.  He  is  said  to 
have  left  some  valuable  mathematical  papers,  some  of  which,  it  is 
understood,  the  late  Professor  Leslie  of  Edinburgh  intended  to 
publish,  along  with  a  memoir  of  the  author. 

Antiquities. — There  are  no  buildings,  ancient  or  modern,  of  any 
importance,  except  the  ruins  of  one  of  those  square  towers  which 
the  feudal  possessors  of  the  land  seem  to  have  erected,  for  the' de- 
fence as  well  as  residence  of  their  families. 

Land-owners. — The  land  is  at  present  much  subdivided, — no 
heritor  possessing  more  than  two  farms,  or  from  500  to  600  acres. 
All  the  heritors  are  non-resident  except  two,  who  occupy  their 
own  farms.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  heritors  according  to 
their  valued  rent: — William  Mackenzie  of  Forret;  Robert  Lindsay 
of  Straiton ;  David  Gillespie  of  Cruvie ;  Trustees  of  the  late  Sir 
William  Fettes  of  Denbrae;  George  Johnston  Lindsay  of  Ked- 
loch  ;  John  Millar  Bowman  of  Logie;  Walter  Millar  of  Tor-Ked- 
loch  ;  Robert  Russel  of  Tor- Forret ;  and  Robert  Murdoch  of  Tor- 
Forret. 

Rental. — The  rental  of  the  two  last  is  under  L.  50.  The  whole 
valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  2916,  6s.  8d.  There  is  a  consi- 
derable number  of  feuars,  possessing  from  1  to  8  acres.  There 
are  eight  farms  above  200  acres  each,  and  four  under  100. 

III. — Population. 
This  parish,  like  many  others,  was  formerly  divided  into  smaller 


LOGIE. 


429 


farms,  than  it  is  now.  This  change  tends,  of  course,  to  diminish 
the  population ;  and,  what  has  contributed  to  the  same  effect,  fewer 
cottages  are  required  upon  farms,  in  consequence  of  unmarried 
being  generally  preferred  to  married  servants.  These  causes  of 
a  decrease  of  population,  however,  have  been  in  some  measure 
counterbalanced  by  the  encouragement  given  to  feuing  by  some 
of  the  proprietors.  Three  small  villages  have  arisen  in  this  way. 
The  advantages  of  feuing  either  to  proprietor  or  tenant  are  very 
questionable.  A  higher  rent  may  be  obtained,  but  an  unsound  po- 
pulation is  produced,  and  paupers,  which  the  landholder  must 
maintain,  are  increased  in  number.  Man  naturally  wishes  to  be  in- 
dependent,— to  have  a  house  and  a  home  which  he  can  call  his 
own.  But  the  expense  of  building  a  house  to  a  poor  man,  and  a 
high  feu-rent,  often  leave  him  nothing  of  independence  but  the 
name.  This,  however,  many  are  compelled  to  do,  or  remove  to 
towns,  as  neither  proprietors  nor  tenants  give  much  encourage- 
ment to  the  building  and  letting  of  cottages.  This  sy&tem  weak- 
ens or  dissolves  that  moral  tie  which  should  unite  rich  and  poor, 
and  widens  that  breach  between  them,  which  is  ruiiious  to  the 


peace  and  prosperity  of  both. 

The  population  in  1831  was  .  430 

at  present  is  .  4l0 
Number  of  families,                  .                 .  .  100 

persons  under  ]  5  years  of  age,  .  .  1 44 

betwixt  13  and  30,  .  .  Ill 

30  and  50,  .  .  97 

50  and  70,  .  .  38 

above  70,  .  .  20 

bachelors  and  widowers  above  50,  .  1 1 

unmarried  women  above  45,  .  .  20 

Average  number  of  children  in  families,  .  4yV 

births  for  last  seven  years,  .  9 

marriages,  v  .  .  5 

deaths,  ...  7 


Illegitimate  births  in  the  course  of  the  last  three  years,  3. 

Habits  and  Character  of  the  People. — A  great  proportion  of 
the  inhabitants,  both  male  and  female,  are  employed  in  agricul- 
ture, and  they  are  In  general  very  sober  and  industrious,  and  are 
tolerably  comfortable  in  their  circumstances.  Few  of  the  farm- 
servants,  indeed,  have  now  the  luxury  of  a  cow ;  but  they  have 
each  a  Scotch  pint  of  milk  daily  from  their  master's  dalrj^,  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  oat-meal  and  potatoes,  and  in  general  they  fat- 
ten a  pig  or  two  annually  for  family  use.  It  is,  indeed,  truly  won- 
derful how  well  clothed,  neat,  and  clean,  large  families  are  kept, 
and  at  the  same  time  tolerably  well  educated,  with  the  few  pounds 
of  wages  received  by  farm-servants  and  other  labourers.  Much 


-130 


Fjri:siiiRR, 


depends  upon  the  sobriety  of  the  husband,  and  the  good  econo- 
my of  the  wife,  and  the  good  health  which  a  kind  Providence  is 
pleased  to  bestow.  The  young  unmarried  servants  are  not  in  so 
comfortable  a  state.  Their  only  food  is  oatmeal,  milk,  and  some  po- 
tatoes. They  are  lodged  in  an  apartment  called  a  hothy,  by  them- 
selves, quite  detached  from  their  master's  house,  and  in  general 
entirely  neglected  by  him  as  to  moral  inspection  or  religions  in- 
struction. The  fatal  consequence  is,  that  too  many  of  our  youth 
in  that  rank  of  life  have,  for  many  years  past,  grown  up  in  igno- 
rance and  vice  :  and  the  instruction  which  they  may  receive  from 
clergymen  is  very  inefficient,  as  a  great  proportion  of  them  change 
masters  every  year. 

IV. — Industry. 

The  parish  contains  about  3343  acres  imperial  measure.  Of 
these  2770  are  arable,  307  unarable,  266  in  wood.  At  an  ave- 
rage 302  acres  are  annually  in  wheat,  465  in  barley,  785  in  oats, 
128  in  pease  and  beans,  149  in  potatoes,  239  in  turnips,  249 
in  grass,  cut  green  and  for  hay,  660  in  pasture,  42  in  fallow. 
The  average  annual  produce  per  acre  is,  of  wheat,  3  quarters  4 
bushels;  of  barley,  4  quarters  4  bushels;  of  oats,  4  quarters  6 
bushels ;  of  pease,  3  quarters  2  bushels ;  of  potatoes,  25  bolls, 
vahie  about  L.  10;  of  turnips,  value  about  L.  7  ;  of  hay,  150 
stones.  Since  the  cultivation  of  potatoes  became  so  extensive,  a 
small  proportion  of  land  is  in  fallow. 

JRent  of  Land. — The  average  rent  per  acre  is  about  L.  1,  18s., 
paid,  in  general,  partly  in  money,  and  partly  in  grain,  by  the  fiars 
of  the  county. 

Hushandry. — The  system  of  husbandry,  as  in  the  adjoining 
parishes,  or  rather  throughout  the  county,  is  upon  the  most  im- 
proved plan,  and  conducted  with  great  skill  and  industry.  The 
mode  of  cropping  is  generally  what  is  called  a  six  years'  rotation, 
alternating  as  regularly  as  possible  green  and  corn  crops.  There 
is,  however,  an  occasional  deviation  from  this  course,  barley  being 
sometimes  sown  after  wheat  in  good  soils.  The  practice  of  sowing 
turnip  with  bone  manure  has  become  very  general ;  and  on  some 
farms,  where  the  soil  is  light  and  dry,  they  are  eaten  down  with 
sheep,  which  is  a  great  improvement.  It  would  also  prove  very 
beneficial  to  such  soils,  to  allow  them  to  lie  in  grass  for  pasture  for 
several  years.  This  would  recruit  them  when  exhausted  by  long- 
continued  corn  cropping.  The  want  of  inclosures,  however,  is 
unfavourable  to  this  improvement. 


LOGIE. 


431 


'J'lie  shortness  of  leases,  too,  is  a  great  discourngcnient  to  en- 
terprising farmers.  For  if  a  farm  be  in  bad  order  when  entered 
to,  or  need  much  draining,  or  require  to  be  inclosed,  a  period  of 
nineteen  years,  the  almost  universal  term  of  leases,  does  not  admit 
of  a  sulRcient  return  for  much  capital  expended  in  such  improve- 
ments ;  and  without  these,  the  farm  cannot  be  so  productive  as  it 
would  otherwise  be,  so  that  short  leases,  and  even  those  of  nine- 
teen years,  must  be  unfavourable  both  to  proprietors  and  tenants. 
A  lease  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  years  would  certainly  give  greater 
encouragement  to  enterprise  and  improvement. 

Live-Siock. — There  are,  on  the  different  farms,  121  horses,  90 
milk  cows,  257  cattle  from  one  to  three  years  old,  114  pigs,  630 
sheep.  Many  of  the  horses  used  in  husbandry  are  reared  upon 
the  farms.  They  are  not  remarkably  large,  but  well-shaped,  stout, 
and  active.  A  pair  of  work  horses  is  required  for  every  fifty  acres. 
Iron  ploughs  are  almost  universally  used.  But  as  our  roads  are  ra- 
ther hilly,  there  are  few  single  horse  carts.  Cattle  also  are,  in  general, 
reared  upon  the  farms,  at  the  rate  of  about  fifteen  per  200  acres. 
A  regular  proportion  of  these  is  fattened  in  winter  by  turnip, 
and  then  sold  to  the  butcher  at  three  years  old.  It  may  be  more 
profitable  to  feed  and  sell  them  so  young,  but  their  flesh  cannot 
be  so  good  or  nutritive  as  at  a  more  mature  age.  Some  farmers 
however,  instead  of  rearing,  buy  in  stock,  and  so  either  buy  and 
sell  at  all  ages,  or  buy  so  as  to  feed  at  four  or  five  years  old.  The 
cattle  reared  are  what  is  called  the  Fife  breed,  generally  of  a  black 
colour,  well-shaped,  sometimes  of  great  size  and  weight.  A  cross 
with  the  Teeswater  breed  has  been  tried,  but  it  does  not  seem  to 
be  much  approved  of  The  cows  are  not  first-rate  milkers,  but  the 
dairy  is  not  much  counted  upon.  The  few  sheep  kept  only  on 
three  farms  are  of  various  breeds,— black-  faced,  Highland,  Che- 
viot, and  Leicester,  and  crosses. 

Farm-houses  and  steadings  are  tolerably  good,  though  not,  in 
general,  equal  to  the  extent  of  the  farms,  and  to  the  capital,  indus- 
try, and  enterprise  of  the  occupiers.  The  cottages  are  very  poor 
uncomfortable  habitations,  but  what  have  been  lately  built  are  con- 
siderably improved. 

Wages.— The  rate  of  wages  is  for  men  about  9s.  a  week  in  sum- 
mer, and  8s.  a  week  in  winter ;  for  women,  by  whom  much  field 
work  is  done,  4s.  a  week ;  for  wrights,  smiths,  and  masons  from 
i2s  to  15s.  a  week. 


432 


FIFESHIRE. 


V. — Pauochial  Economy. 
No  turnpike  road  passes  through  any  part  of  this  parish,  and 
there  is  no  inn  or  alehouse  in  it.    The  nearest  post-town  is  Cu- 
par, distant  about  four  miles  and  a  half. 

Ecclesiastical  Stoic— There  is  no  dissenting  place  of  worship 
in  the  parish,  and  the  Dissenters,  who  chiefly  belong  to  what  are 
called  the  Relief  and  Associate  Synod,  are  not  numerous,— seldom 
exceeding  thirty  individuals. 

The  parish  church,  which  was  built  in  1826,  is  a  very  plain 
but  commodious  house,  placed  in  a  centrical  situation.     It  is 
seated  for  280,  and  none  of  the  seats  are  let.     Each  heritor 
accommodates  the  people  upon  his  own  ground  with  seats.  But 
though  the  church  is  sufficiently  large  for  the  .population,  there 
is  stitl  a  want  of  seats  in  those  divisions  of  the  church  which  be- 
long to  heritors,  who,  by  feuing  their  ground,  have  raised  a 
greater  number  of  people  upon  it  than  their  proportion  of  the 
church  can  supply  with  seats.    This  is  a  hardship  for  which  no 
legal  remedy  is  yet  provided.    About  one-half  of  the  population 
regularly  attend  public  worship  on  the  Sabbath,  and  about  one- 
third  of  them  are  communicants.    No  society  for  religious  pur- 
poses is,  at  present,  established  in  the  parish.  But  there  is,  in  ge- 
neral, an  annual  collection  so  appropriated,  amounting  to  L.  6  or 
L.  7.    The  minister's  stipend  consists  of  1  boll  2  pecks  of  wheat ; 
45  bolls,  1  firlot,  2  pecks  of  barley ;  39  bolls,  1  firlot,  1  peck,  1 
lippie  of  meal;  29  bolls,  3  pecks,  3lippie»  of  oats  ;  and  L.  82,  12s. 
2d.    The  teinds  are  valued  and  exhausted.    The  glebe  is  about  6 
Scotch,  or  7  acres  2  roods  imperial  measure,  which  may  be 
valued  at  a  rent  of  L.  12.    A  new  manse  was  built  in  1815,  and 
offices  in  1828;  and  both  are  in  good  condition. 

Education.— T\ievQ  is  only  one  school  in  the  parish.  The 
schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary,— with  an  addition  of  50 
merks  Scots  per  annum,— a  mortification  of  an  old  date  by  an 
heritor  in  the  parish  to  the   person  then  called  the  reader. 
The  common  branches  of  education,  English  reading,  writing, 
and  arithmetic,  are  taught.    But  the  schoolmaster  is  qualified 
to  teach  English  grammar,  Latin,  practical  mathematics,  and 
geography,  and  sometimes  has  a  few  scholars  attending  these 
higher  branches.    The  fees  per  quarter  are  2s.,  2s.  6d.,  and 
3s.    The  fees  received  by  the  teacher  may  amount  to  L.  15  or 
L.  20  per  annum.  There  are  none  in  the  parish  who  cannot  read, 
p.tid  few  who  cannot  write,  and  are  not  also  somewhat  acquainted 


LOQIE.  433 

with  arithmetic.  The  children  of  the  labouring  classes  are  in  ge- 
neral sent  to  school  at  an  earlier  period  of  life,  and  leave  it  sooner 
than  formerly,  so  that,  unless  they  are  attended  to  by  parents  or 
masters,  or  have  the  benefit  of  a  Sabbath  school,  they  too  soon 
forget  what  they  have  learned.  A  Sabbath  school  has  been  long 
taught  in  this  parish,  but  is  now  attended  chiefly  by  girls. 

Library. —  There  is  no  public  library  for  the  use  of  the  parish, 
but  Sabbath  scholars  and  others  are  supplied  with  a  few  appro- 
priate books  from  the  manse.  There  is,  indeed,  a  library  of  some 
value  belonging  to  a  heritor,  to  which  a  certain  class  of  the  parish- 
ioners have  access,  if  they  choose  to  avail  themselves  of  the  privi- 
lege. But  the  very  terms  upon  which  it  is  granted,  operate  as  an 
exclusion  from  the  carefully  secured  treasure.  The  books,  as  well 
as  the  acres,  are  strictly  entailed.  The  heir  of  entail  is  prohibited 
from  lending  a  book  to  his  neighbours ;  but  he  is  bound  to  keep  a 
suitable  room  for  the  library  in  his  house,  and  to  allow  free  access 
to  It  to  the  minister  and  other  gentlemen,  there  to  read  and  study, 
but  all  women  and  children  are  expressly  excluded. 

Poo?-.— The  poor  in  this  parish,  whose  average  number  is  about 
7,  and  who  get  from  4s.  to  10s.  per  month,  according  to  their  cir- 
cumstances, are  supplied  by  collections  at  the  church  door,  by  the 
interest  of  a  small  sum  of  money,  and  voluntary  contributions  by 
the  heritors.  The  collections  and  interest  amount  to  L.  18  or  L.20, 
and  nearly  as  much  is  contributed  annually  by  the  heritors.  In- 
stances of  praiseworthy  delicacy  respecting  dependence  upon  the 
poor's  fund  sometimes  occur,  but  a  very  different  feelino-  is  evi- 
dently increasing.  The  session  records  and  parish  register  are  re- 
gularly kept.    The  date  of  the  earliest  is  1660. 

December  1837. 


l-'IFE. 


PARISH  OF  LARGO. 

PUKSBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

REV.  ROBERT  BROWN,  MINISTER. 


I.„T0P0GRAPHY  AND  NaTURAL  HiSTORY. 

Boundaries,  Extent— Tnia  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
parish  of  Newburn  ;  on  the  west,  by  Scoonie ;  on  the  north,  by 
Ceres;  and  on  the  south  by  Largo  Bay,  in  the  Frith  of  Forth.  It 
extends  from  north  to  south  nearly  6,  from  east  to  west  an  average 
of  3  miles,  and  contains  6820  imperial  acres. 

Topographical  Appearances,  and  Geology.— It  presents,  through- 
out, an  unusual  variety  of  ground,  being  finely  diversified  by  ac- 
clivities and  plains.    But  the  only  hill  deserving  of  that  nanie  is 
Larao  Law,  of  a  conical  form,  and  rising  910  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  at  a  distance  from  it  of  two  miles.    At  the  summit, 
which  is  cleft  in  two,  regular  columns  of  basalt*  present  themselves. 
The  south  side,  which  is  very  precipitous,  is  composed  of  basalt, 
the  west  and  north-west  of  sandstone.     The  east  slopes  very  gra- 
dually, and  consists  of  soft  tuffa  and  debris  of  water-worn  rocks  and 
gravel.    To  the  west  of  Largo  Law  is  a  deep  valley,  named  Keils 
Glen,  extending  two  miles,  composed  of  sandstone,  with  beds  ot 
shale,  greenstone,  with  veins  of  felspar,  calcareous  spar,  and  w^acke. 
The  sea  coast,  which  is  the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  forms 
part  of  Largo  Bay,  which  reaches  from  Kincraig  point  on  the  east, 
to  Methill  point  on  the  west,  making  a  straight  line  between  them 
of  7  miles,  and  a  semicircle  of  10.    In  this  bay,  and  especially  in 
the  eastern  curve,  are  found  very  satisfactory  evidences  ot  a  sub- 
marine forest.   The  neighbouring  rocks  are  of  the  coal  formation. 
The  bed  on  which  the  forest  rests  consists  of  firmly  laminated  brown 
clay,  coveredwith  gravel  and  sand,  above  which  is  a  bed  of  peat,  com- 
posed of  land  andfresh  waterplants.  In  this  bed  have  been  discovered 
the  remains  of  the  birch,  and  hazel,  and  alder,-a  trunk  o  the  lat- 
ter measuring  six  feet.  Do  not  such  appearances  confirm  the  tradi- 
tionary record  which  places  the  "  Wood  of  Forth"  in  this  locality . 

.  A  chemical  analysis  of  the  basaltic  rocks  of  Largo  Law  has  been  published  in  the 
Edinburgh  New  Philosophic*!  Journal. 


LARGO.  435 

The  shore  is  flat  and  sandy,  with  the  exception  of  red  sandstone 
and  minute  portions  of  coal  near  the  surface.  Lime  and  sandstone, 
with  numerous  boulders  of  trap,  are  found  throughout  the  parish, 
the  limestone  lying  below  slate-clay,  and  ironstone  being  frequent 
in  the  sandstone  bed.    The  limestone,  in  some,  places  is  1 5  feet 
thick,  of  a  gray  colour,  and  the  superincumbent  strata  are  general- 
ly argillo-calcareous  rock,  ;i  bed  of  shale  and  sandstone.  Organic 
remains  are  rare,  although  corallines  and  occasionally  shells  do  oc- 
cur.   There  is  only  one  good  freestone  quarry,  which  is  wrought 
at  considerable  expense,  from  the  great  thickness  of  earth  above 
the  rock.    Many  years  ago,  coal  was  wrought  in  large  quantities, 
especially  near  the  coast.     At  present,  there  are  three  seams 
wrought,  but  none  of  them  are  of  the  first  quality.   To  the  north 
of  New  Gilston  a  singular  mass  of  rum"  coal  is  found,  under  the 
mass  of  overlying  trap  on  the  south.    It  is  an  inflammable  bitu- 
minous shale,  and  is  extensively  used  for  lime-burning.    It  is  known 
to  be  80  feet  thick,  and  is  wrought  in  an  open  quarry.  On  the  estate 
of  Teuchats,  in  the  north  centre  of  the  parish,  is  a  limestone  rock 
of  excellent  quality,  and  much  esteemed  for  building.  The  work- 
ing of  it  here  had  nearly  ceased;  but,  a  new  level  has  been  lately 
brought  up,  and  a  deeper  cut  in  the  lime  commenced.    It  is  car- 
ried on  in  the  parish  of  Ceres,  where  the  same  bed  runs  to  a  great 
extent.   The  soil  on  the  north  is  generally  of  a  thick  black  mould, 
on  a  wet  bottom ;  in  the  south,  of  a  black  loam,  partly  on  a  wet, 
and  partly  on  a  dry  bottom— interspersed  with  fields  of  light  land ; 
rich  breaking  clay  is  peculiar  to  the  south-east ;  and  there  are  some 
tracks  to  the  west  of  Largo  Law,  of  a  more  obdurate  nature,  and 
on  a  wet  bottom. 

Plantations,  §-c.— In  the  north-east  quarter,  are  extensive  plan- 
tations of  Scotch  fir  and  larch.  Interspersed  among  these,  and 
particularly  in  all  recent  plantings,  are  varieties  of  hard-wood,  as 
oak,  ash,  elm,  beech,  and  plane.  There  is- a  grove  of  very  an- 
cient limes  at  Lundin  House.  The  planes  about  Largo  House  are 
remarkable  for  their  size;  and  several  elms  deserve  notice  for  their 
smgular  and  fantastic  beauty.  There  do  not  appear  to  be  any  in- 
digenous plants  of  a  rare  species.  The  subsoil  in  the  more  souther- 
ly gardens  is  rotten  rock,  and  they  are  found  very  productive  in 
fruit,  especially  pears,  and  favourable  to  the  growth  of  plants,  both 
of  a  hardy  and  tender  kind.  Shrubs  from  New  Holland,  as  the 
Leptospermwm  baccatum,  stand  the  winter  well.   The  Acacia,  and 


43G 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  Azalea,  both  In  several  varieties,  (lourish.  The  Arbutus  Andrach- 
ne  ripens  its  fruit,  and  myrtles,  in  sheltered  situations,  are  well 
carried  through  even  severe  seasons.  A  very  marked  difference 
prevails  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  between  north  and 
south,  the  latter  being  always  several  degrees  warmer. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
The  most  ancient  and  remarkable  account  of  this  parish  is  con- 
tained in  Lament's  Diary,  extending  from  1649  to  1671,  and  em- 
bracing various  genealogical  and  historical  notices,  with  no  small 
proportion  of  gossip.  The  writer  was  factor  on  the  Lundin  estate, 
and  his  work  was  first  printed  from  his  MS.  in  1810,  by  Mr  Con- 
stable, and  again  in  1830. 

Parochial  Rec/isters.^The  parochial  registers  consist  of  four- 
teen volumes.  They  commence  in  1636,  have  been  regularly  kept, 
and  are  often  very  curious  and  full  in  their  details  of  such  parish 
transactions  as  the  session  took  under  their  cognizance. 

Eminent  Men.— Among  the  most  eminent  characters  connected 
with  the  parish  is  Sir  Andrew  Wood,  a  naval  officer,  to  whom,  by  a 
charter  under  the  Great  Seal,  of  date  1482,  James  III.  granted  the 
barony  of  Largo,  in  acknowledgement  of  his  brilliant  achievements 
against  the  greatly  superior  force  of  the  piratical  vessels  of  England ; 
and  his  son  James  IV.  continued  to  hold  him  in  deservedly  high 
esteem,  and  employed  him,  both  in  war  and  diplomatic  nego- 
tiations. Little  is  known  of  John  Wood,  founder  of  the  hospital 
afterwards  noticed,  and  to  whom  there  is  a  monument  in  the  church- 
yard wall,  except  that  he  was  a  cadet  of  the  family  of  Largo,  died 
in  London  in  great  difficulties,  though  leaving  a  large  property,  and 
was  buried  in  Largo  aisle,  22d  July  1661. 

In  1670,  this  barony,  which,  subsequently  to  Sir  A.  Wood,  had 
been  possessed  by  Mr  Peter  Black,  and  the  Gibsons  of  Dune, 
was  purchased  from  the  latter  in  1663,  by  Sir  Alexander  Durham, 
Lord  Lyon  King  at  Arms,  for  85,000  merks.  His  brother  was  Mr 
James  Durham,  minister  of  the  High  Church,  Glasgow,  and  dis- 
tinguished both  as  an  officer  and  a  divine. 

In  the  village  of  Low  Largo,  was  born  Alexander  Selkirk  in 
1676.  Being  disgusted  with  the  notice  taken  by  the  session,  of  a 
squabble  which  he  had  with  his  brother,  he  went  to  sea,  and  in 
1703,  being  sailing  master  of  the  ship  Cinque  Ports,  bound  for  the 
south  sea,  he  was  put  or  left  on  shore  on  the  island  of  Juan  Fernan- 
dez He  remained  here,  in  entire  solitude,  four  years  and  four 
months,  when  he  was  brought  to  England  by  Captain  Woods  Rogers. 


LARGO. 


437 


De  Foe  found  him  about  Wapping,  and  out  of  his  story  constructed 
Robinson  Crusoe,  the  most  entertaining  and  popuhir  of  all  adven- 
tures. Alexander  brought  home  the  gun,  sea-chest,  and  cap  which 
he  had  with  him  on  the  desolate  island,  returned  to  sea  after  nine 
months,  and  was  never  heard  of  again. 

The  late  Sir  John  Leslie  was  born  in  this  parish  in  1766,  of  respec- 
table parents.*  He  discovered  an  early  predilection  for  mathematical 
and  physical  science,  having  with  little  aid  qualified  himself,  in  his 
thirteenth  year,  for  the  senior  mathematic  class  in  the  University 
of  St  Andrews.  In  1784,  he  entered  as  a  student  of  Divinity  at 
Edinburgh,  but  soon  gave  up  all  thoughts  of  the  church  as  a  pro- 
fession, and  devoted  an  interval  of  several  years  to  private  teach- 
ing, travelling  and  writing  for  periodical  publications  of  the  day. 
Becoming  well  known  by  his  differential  thermometer,  completed  in 
1794,  by  his  essay  on  Heat,  published  in  1804,  and  by  other  works 
pubhshed  in  Nicolson's  Journal,  and  the  Transactions  of  the  Royal 
Society  of  London,  he  was  elected  Professor  of  Mathematics  in  the 
University  of  Edinburgh,  in  1805;  in  1809,  Trofessor  of  Natural 
Philosophy  ;  and  in  1820,  Corresponding  Member  of  the  Institute 
of  France.  He  contributed  largely  to  the  new  edition  of  the  Encyclo- 
paedia Britannica ;  and  in  that,  was  published  his  last  and  best  pro- 
duction, "  The  Progress  of  Mathematical  Science  in  the  eighteenth 
century."  In  1832,  he  was  created  a  Knight  of  the  Guelphic  Order, 
and  in  the  November  of  that  year  he  died,  leaving  the  impress  of 
his  vigorous  and  original  genius,  whatever  may  be  thought  of  his 
theories  and  reasonings,  on  his  admirable  instruments  and  experi- 
mental labours. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners  in  this  parish  are  : 

General  James  Durham  of  Largo,  valued  rent,        .  L.  3463  18  0 

Captain  Erskine  Wemyss  of  Lundiu,       .  .         .         2237  7  8 

Lieutenant- Colonel  Briggs  of  Strathearly,  .           .         419  14  8 

James  Wyld,  Ksq.  of  Gilston,            .  ,           .            480  7  2 

Captain  Ker  of  Greenside  and  Balcomo,  .           .             311  12  9 

Andrew  Pitcairn,  Esq.  of  Pratis,           .  .           .         301  10  10 

Alexander  Youngson,  Esq.  of  West  Gilston,  .              152  15  2 

Lady  Baird  of  Prestonfield,             .  .            .            184  10  3 

Dundas  Blair,  Esq.  of  Teuchats,          .  .            .            101  11  6 

David  Millie,  Esq,  of  Balhousie,           .  .          1 60  2  0 


Sum,  L.  7813  10  0 
Real  rent  about  L.  8500    0  0 

Ofthe.se,  five  have  residences  in,  and  two  bordering  on,  the  parish. 
The  handsomest  house  is  that  of  Largo,  built  in  1750,  very  spa- 
cious, and  commanding  a  rich  and  extensive  prospect. 

A  biography  of  Sir  John  Leslie,  by  one  of  his  colleagues  in  the  University  of 
Edinburgh,  appeared  in  the  Edinburgh  New  Philosophical  Journal,  Vol.  xxiii. 


438 


FIFF.SHIRE. 


Antiqidics. — A  circular  tower  of  the  old  house,  inhabited  by  Sir 
Andrew  Wood,  and  said  lo  have  been,  previously  to  his  time,  a 
jointure  house  of  the  Scottish  queens,  still  remains.  General  Dur- 
ham has  lately  put  on  it  a  monumental  stone,  with  an  inscription 
from  Sir  Andrew's  charter.*    On  the  banks  of  the  Kiel,  a  small 
stream,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Balcruvie,  once  possessed  by 
the  noble  f^imily  of  Crawfurd.    In  the  centre  of  Lundin  House, 
which  is  a  modern  erection,  rises  a  square  tower  of  great  antiquity. 
The  property  of  Lundin,  which  once  embraced  nearly  the  whole 
parish,  was  held  by  individuals  of  the  name  of  Lundin,  so  early  as 
the  reign  of  David  L    One  of  King  William  the  Lion's  sons,  Ro- 
bert, married  the  heiress,  and  in  1670,  John  Drummond,  second 
son  of  the  Earl  of  Perth,  married  the  then  heiress  Sophia,  after 
which  the  property  remained  in  the  united  families  of  Perth  and 
Lundin,  now  represented  by  Lady  Willoughby  D'Eresby,  for  a 
number  of  years  subsequent  to  the  attainder  of  the  Earl  of  Perth  m 
1745,  when  it  was  disposed  of;  and  it  is  now  in  possession  of  Cap- 
tain Erskine  Wemyss  of  Wemyss  Castle,  in  right  of  his  mother, 
daughter  of  the  late  Sir  William  Erskine,  Bartf 

To  the  south  and  east  of  Lundin  House  are  erected  three  un- 
wrought  stones  of  a  triangular  form,  measuring  six  yards  above, 
and,  as  it  is  thought,  as  much  below  gromid,  the  solid  contents  of 
each  being  270  feet.    They  bear  no  traces  of  any  figure  or  in- 
scription.   By  some,  they  are  conjectured  to  be  of  Roman  origm ; 
by  others,  to  be  the  gravestones  of  Danish  chiefs,  who  fought 
here  and  were  conquered  by  Banquo  and  Macbeth  ;  and  by  others, 
perhaps,  with  most  probability,  to  be  Druidical  remains.  Ancient 
sepulchres  are  found  near  them.   They  are  of  red  sandstone.  Two 
pieces  of  the  same  species  of  stone,  evidently  belonging  to  each 
other,  were  found  some  years  ago,  a  mile  apart,  on  the  south  of 
Largo  estate.    They  are  now  joined,  and  present  the  appearance 
of  a  carved  cross,  of  which  the  transverse  pieces  are  equal,  sur- 
rounded by  a  carved  circle,  touching  the  extremities  of  each. 
Such  stones  are  said  to  be  extremely  rare,  one  only  being  known 

*  He  hrs  also  erected  this  summer,  on  a  handsome  stage,  an  iron  32  pounder,  belong- 
ing to  the  Royal  George,  which  was  wrecked  in  1782.  This  gun,  which  was  recover- 
ed in  1836,  and  presented  to  the  General  by  the  Board  of  Ordnance,  is  peculiarly  m- 
terosting,  as  Admiral  Sir  Philip  Durham,  his  brother,  a  native  of  the  parish,  and  ft 
distinguished  officer,  Commander-in-Chief  at  Portsmouth,  now,  and  at  the  time  when 
the  eun  was  recovered,  was  a  lieutenant,  and  on  board  of  the  Royal  George,  at  tlie 
time  of  the  wreck,  and  one  of  70  who,  out  of  1200  persons,  were  rescued  from  that 

fatal  caJ^™'f  >J  descendants  of  the  family  of  Lundin,  hearing  the  name,  are  the  I.un- 
dins  of  Auchtermairnie,  in  the  parish  of  Kennoway. 

3 


LARGO. 


439 


ill  Britain,  and  a  few  in  Denmark.  On  a  rising  ground  to  the 
north,  called  Norrie's  Law,  several  antiquities  in  •  silver  were  dis- 
covered, together  with  a  number  of  small  silver  Roman  coins, 
bearing  the  stamp  of  the  earlier  emperors.  They  are  now  in  the 
possession  of  General  Durham.  On  the  property  of  Balhousie, 
about  forty  years  ago,  were  found,  deposited  eighteen  inches  be- 
neath the  surface,  three  earthen  vases  containing  ashes,  and  near 
them  some  rude  stone  coffins,  and  the  bones  of  a  child. 

III. — Population. 


The  population  amounted  in  1755,  to  1^96 

1801,  .  1867 

1811,  .  1973 
1821,      .  ■  2301 

1831,  .  2567 
Males,       .         .          .  .  1210 

Females,        .  .  .  1337 


Males  above  twenty  years  of  age,       .  606 

The  population  formerly  employed  in  sea  pursuits,  salt-works, 
and  collieries,  in  the  south,  has  no  doubt  been  diminished  ;  but  the 
deficiency  is  far  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the  greater  number 
of  hands  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  the  land,  in  manufactures, 
and  in  collieries  in  the  north. 

Of  the  whole,  there  may  be  considered  as  residing  in  villages,     .  1761 
•  in  the  country,  806 

It  is  to  be  regretted,  that,  from  the  registration  of  births  not  be- 
ing compulsory,  no  accurate  account  of  them  can  be  furnished. 


Average  of  deaths  for  the  last  seven  years,              .  46f- 

of  marriages,                  ...  19 

Number  of  families,             »             .             .  590 

children  in  a  family,              .              .  4 

inhabited  houses,              .                 .  479 

uninhabited,              ....  3 

families  employed  in  agriculture,              .  139 
manufactures  of  all  kinds,  343 

all  others,            ....  97 


Number  of  insane  persons  kept  in  an  asylum,  4  ;  of  fatuous,  4 ;  of  blind,  3,  and 
2  children  nearly  so  ;  of  deaf  and  dumb,  3,  one  of  whom  is  educating  at  the  Edin- 
burgh institution. 

The  proprietors  of  land  of  L.  50  and  upwards  are  the  heritors 
formerly  mentioned,  three  of  whom  are  resident. 

There  is  nothing  peculiar  in  the  language  or  manners  of  the  in- 
habitants. It  argues  well  for  their  prudence  and  management, 
that  with  wages,  as  frequently  happens,  not  exceeding  6s.  or  7s. 
a-week,  they  are  able  to  clothe,  educate,  and  feed  their  families, 
pay  tlveir  house  rent,  and  defray  other  necessary  expenses.  Their 
general  character,  with  exceptions  which  are  found  almost  solely 
in  the  villages,  may  be  considered  as  moral  and  becoming.  Their 
kindness  to  each  other  in  distress,  it  is  always  gratifying  to  witness ; 


440 


FIFESHIRK. 


and  their  attendance  at  religious  meetings,  besides  the  ordinary 
Sabbath  services,  is  a  favourable  evidence  of  their  religious  cha- 
racter. 

IV. —  iNDUgTRY. 

The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  in  cultivation  is,       •  5935 

of  pasturage  lands,  .  290 
of  planting,         .  .  595 

In  general,  the  plantations  consist  of  Scotch  fir,  larch,  oak,  elm, 
plane,  ash,  and  beech.  They  thrive  well,  particularly  the  oak,  if 
allowed  sufficient  room.  On  the  north  side  of  the  parish,  which 
is  higher  and  of  less  value,  the  plantations,  though  mixed  with  va- 
rious sorts  of  hard-wood,  are  chiefly  Scotch  fir  and  larch ;  the 
latter  is  rapid  in  its  growth,  and  found  to  be  very  useful  for  many 
coimtry  purposes.  The  plantations  are  under  good  management, 
and  regularly  thinned,  but  the  produce  is  small. 

Rent. — The  average  rent  of  land  may  be  reckoned  at  L.  2  per 
acre ;  the  rate  of  grazing  an  ox  depends  on  his  weight  and  size, — 
at  three  years  old,  and  weighing  40  superficial  stones,  he  may  be 
grazed  for  L.  2,  15s. ;  a  milk  cow,  L.  3;  and  a  full-grown  Leices- 
ter sheep,  14s. 

Live-Stock. — The  cattle  generally  bred  are  what  is  termed  the 
Fife  breed,  but  it  is  not  considered  pure.  Of  late,  some  farmers 
have  bred  from  short-horned  or  Teeswater  bulls,  which  is  reckon- 
ed a  great  improvement,  as  the  stock  both  milk  well  and  feed  well. 
No  sheep  are  bred  except  for  private  use,  and  these  are  of  the 
Leicester  kind.  Horses  are  reared  chiefly  for  draught.  Some  of 
a  superior  kind  have  been  bred  lately  from  Yorkshire  coaching 
horses,  and  have  brought  high  prices  for  gentlemen's  carriages. 
A  considerable  number  of  hogs  are  bred  and  fattened.  They  are 
of  a  smaller  kind  than  formerly,  being  a  cross  of  the  Chinese,  which 
are  easily  fattened,  and  meet  with  a  ready  market. 

Husbandry. — There  is  little  waste  land  in  the  parish,  all  having 
undergone  some  degree  of  improvement,  although  in  some  places 
much  remains  to  be  done.  Increased  attention  is  now  given  to  drain- 
ing; and  considerable  sums  have  been  laid  out  on  it,  to  great  advan- 
tage. Furrow  or  surface  drains  are  becoming  frequent,  and  are  high- 
ly approved.  It  is  usual  for  the  landlord  to  be  at  the  expense  of 
opening  and  filling  them,  whilst  the  tenant  defrays  the  remainder. 
The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years.  For  the  first 
fifteen,  the  tenant,  though  taken  bound  not  to  deteriorate  the  land 
bv  over-cropping,  is  otherwise  unrestricted ;  for  the  last  four,  he 
is  tied  down  to  a  certain  management  and  rotation,  according  to 


LARGO. 


441 


the  nature  of  the  ground,  and  particularly,  to  leave  a  proportion 
of  it  in  grass,  green  crop,  and  fallow.  1'he  term  of  lease  may  be 
long  enough  in  ordinary  cases,  but  not  sufficient  to  reimburse  the 
tenant  when  great  improvements  have  been  accomplished  at  his 
expense.  The  farm-buildings  are  now  generally  commodious  and 
suitable.  Much  has  been  done  for  their  improvement,  within  twenty 
years.  The  farm-house  ordinarily  consists  of  two  storeys,  covered 
with  tile  or  slate,  and  has  the  office-houses  behind  it,  for  the  most 
part  in  the  form  of  a  square.  There  is  only  a  small  proportion  of 
unenclosed  ground  in  the  parish,  although  some  of  the  fences  are 
very  insufficient,  and  not  well  taken  care  of.  More  attention  is 
now  paid  to  them,  and  the  ditches  are  occasionally  scoured,  and 
the  hedges  dressed  and  cleaned  annually.  No  obstacles  of  mate- 
rial consequence  oppose  the  agricultural  improvement  of  the  pa- 
rish, except  the  low  prices  of  produce  for  some  years,  which  have 
barely  enabled  the  tenant  to  pay  his  rent  and  his  current  expenses 
of  cultivation. 

Fishery. — Some  years  ago,  a  salmon  stake-net  fishery  was  com- 
menced in  Largo  Bay.  The  rent  paid  to  the  proprietors  of  the  diffe- 
rent stations  was  one-fourteenth  of  the  gross  produce.  The  annual 
amount  of  the  fish  sold,  on  an  average  of  five  years,  was  only 
L.  130,  and  from  the  expense  of  erecting  and  keeping  the  nets, 
nearly  half  of  the  capital  employed  was  lost.  The  undertaking 
has  been  resumed,  and  is  now  more  prosperously  carried  on. 

Manufactures.—There  are  two  manufactures  in  the  parish  ;  one 
water-mill  for  cleaning,  and  the  other  water  and  steam-mill  for  spin- 
nmg  flax  ;  the  first  employing  4,  the  second  employing  85  hands. 
They  work  six  days  in  the  week,  twelve  hours  per  diem,  and  nine 
on  Saturday.  They  afford  a  fair  remuneration,  and  are  not  con- 
sidered as  particularly  prejudicial  either  to  health  or  morals. 

Shippinff.— -Three  small  vessels  only  belong  to  the  port  of  the 
parish.  The  trade  carried  on  in  old  times,  in  coal,  salt,  iron, 
sandstone,  &c.  with  Campvere  and  Rotterdam,  and  more  recent- 
ly in  wood  with  Norway,  being  altogether  at  an  end. 

V, — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Towns,  Sfc.—Leven  and  Colinsburgh,  each  three  mile.s 
distant  from  the  Kirkton  of  Largo,  may  be  considered  as  the 
market-towns  of  the  parish,  for  although  it  has  several  bakers 
and  brewers,  it  has  never  regularly  supplied  itself  with  butcher- 
meat.   The  several  villages  contain  a  population  as  follows,— Kirk- 


442 


FIFESHIRE. 


ton,  413;  Lower  Largo,  including  Temple  and  Drummochy,  567  ; 
Lundin  Mill,  453;  Backmuir  of  Gilston  and  Woodside,  316. 

Means  of  Communication.— T<lumerous  means  of  communica- 
tion are  enjoyed  by  the  parish.      A  daily  post  arrives  and 
departs.      The  turnpike  road  passing  through  it  exceeds  eight 
miles.     There  is  a  daily  coach  from  Cupar  to  Largo,  except 
in  the  depth  of  winter ;  and  at  all  seasons,  one  by  Largo  from 
Anstruther  to  Edinburgh,  three  times  a  week ;  and  one  also  as 
frequently  from  St  Andrews  to  Largo.     A  steam-boat  plies 
twice  a  day  in  summer  and  once  in  winter  between  Largo  and 
Newhaven.     The  harbour,  formed  by  the  influx  of  the  Kiel 
into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  is  not  in  good  order.    Were  it  repaired, 
which  might  be  done  without  much  outlay,  it  would  be  one  of  the 
best  on  this  side  of  the  Forth,  and  were  alow  water  or  chain  pier  to 
be  constructed,  and  a  more  level  road  made  between  this  port  and 
Cupar,  not  only  would  the  neighbourhood  be  benefited,  and  the 
county  town  obtain  a  shipping  port  within  ten  miles,  but  the  near- 
est and  most  direct  communication  would  be  opened  between  the 
capital  and  the  north-east  of  Scotland,  and  a  place  of  shelter  af- 
forded to  vessels  in  storms,  by  which  much  property  and  life  might 
be  saved. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  parish  church  is  situated  most  conve- 
niently for  the  majority  of  the  population,  but  at  a  distance  of  four  or 
five  milesfrom  one-fifth  of  it.  It  was  built  in  1817;  and  in  1826,  there 
was  taken  into  the  new  building,  an  aisle  belonging  to  the  old,  by 
which  the  spire  is  supported,  bearing  date  1623.  It  affords  accom- 
modation for  upwards  of  800,  and  there  are  no  free  sittings  except 
50,  eight  for  the  hospitalers,  and  the  remainder  for  official  persons. 

There  are  considerable  benefactions  in  the  management  of  the 
session.  The  interest  of  L.  100,  left  by  Mrs  Wood,  for  the  bene- 
fit of  orphans;  the  interest  of  L.  600,  left  by  the  late  Mr  Kettle, 
writer  in  Edinburgh,  one-half  for  the  education  of  four  poor  child- 
ren, to  the  parochial  teacher,  and  one-half  to  as  many  persons  as 
it  will  reach,  none  receiving  less  than  L.  2,  who  have  fallen  from 
their  former  means,  but  are  not  on  the  poor's  roll ;  and  the  inte- 
rest of  L.  500,  to  respectable  widows,  named  Jameson,  who  have, 
and  only  as  long  as  they  have,  children  under  sixteen  years  of  age. 
This  fund,  from  the  want  of  applicants  corresponding  to  the  de- 
scription, now  exceeds  L.  1100.    No  individual  can  receive  more 

than  L.  5  per  annum. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1770.    A  large  addition,  with  a  com- 


LAUGO. 


443 


plete  set  of  new  offices,  was  made  to  it  in  \8'23,  and  another  ad- 
dition this  summer,  so  that  now  there  is  none  better  in  the  county. 
The  glebe  and  garden  make  up  5  acres,  worth  L.  20.  For  many 
years,  L.  1 1  per  annum  has  been  paid  to  the  minister  in  lieu  of 
foggage.  The  stipend,  exclusive  of  L.  10  for  communion  ele- 
ments, has  been,  since  the  augmentation  for  crop  1830,  136  bolls 
of  meal,  and  136  barley,  commuted  at  the  fiar  prices,  and  amount- 
ing, for  the  last  six  years  respectively,  to  L.281,  L. 228,  L.215, 
L.  212,  L.  219,  and  for  crop  1836,  to  L.  292. 

There  are  two  dissenting  chapels,  one  belonging  to  the  Relief, 
and  the  other  to  the  Baptist  persuasion,  both  situated  at  Lower 
Largo.  Their  ministers  are  paid  by  voluntary  contribution.  The 
number  of  families  connected  with  the  Establishment  is  350 — with 
Dissenters  of  all  classes,  200  ;  and  there  are  not  a  few  individuals 
unconnected  with  any  religious  persuasion.  Divine  service  at  the 
Establishment  is  generally  well  attended,  and,  there  is  reason  to 
think,  would  be  much  better  attended,  were  it  not  that  more  seats 
are  given  to  tenants,  or  let  out  to  others,  than  they  or  their  fami- 
lies can  occupy,  and  thus  such  as  would  fill  vacant  seats  cannot 
obtain  them, — an  evil  which  here,  and  in  many  other  places,  calls 
loudly  for  redress.  The  number  of  communicants  on  the  roll  is 
760.  The  number  present  in  summer  is  about  600 ;  and  in  win- 
ter, 500. 

There  were  Societies  for  religious  and  charitable  purposes,  but 
it  is  found  more  expedient  to  have  regular  collections,  several  times 
a-year.  The  average  amount  collected  for  the  last  three  years  has 
been  L.  30  per  annum. 

Education. — There  is  one  parochial  school,  the  teacher  of  which 
has  the  maximum  salary,  L.  34,  2s.  4d.,  more  than  the  legal  ac- 
commodations, and  fees  amounting  to  L.  20.  Of  three  other 
schools,  two  have  gratuitous  salaries  of  L.  5  each  from  the  heri- 
tors ;  and  the  fees  of  each  will  amount  to  nearly  L.  40  per  annum. 
The  branches  generally  taught  are,  reading,  writing,  arithmetic, 
mensuration,  and  occasionally  Latin,  book-keeping,  and  naviga- 
tion. The  expensei.of  course,  varies,  according  to  the  branches 
taught;  the  lowest  being  4d.,  the  medium  Is.,  and  the  highest 
7s.  a  month.  The  people  are  alive  to  the  benefits  of  educa- 
tion ;  and  there  are  few  children  of  six  years  who  have  not  been 
sent  to  school;  and  few  above  fifteen  who  cannot  read.  And 
though  the  distances  from  school  are  two  and  even  three  miles, 
this  does  not  pi'event  attendance.    Additional  schools  are  not  re- 


444 


FIFERHiaE. 


quired  except  for  this  distance,  which  makes  one  in  the  north-west 
district  very  desirable' ;  but  a  more  liberal  remuneration  would  be 
a  great  boon  to  the  unendowed  teachers,  who  often  suffer  from  non- 
payment of  fees. 

Library. — A  subscription  library  has  been  established  for  a  num- 
ber of  years,  containing  about  500  volumes.  It  has  been  less  pa- 
tronized of  late  than  formerly,  probably  because  there  is  a  much 
greater  number  of  periodical  publications  circulating  at  a  small  ex- 
pense. 

WoocCs  Hospital — There  is  only  one  charitable  institution, 
— Wood's  Hospital.  John  Wood,  a  cadet  of  Sir  Andrew's  family, 
by  deed  ofmortification,  dated  7th  July  1659,  bequeathed  L.  68,418 
Scotch,  to  build  and  endow  an  hospital  within  the  parish,  for  the 
maintenance  of  thirteen  indigent  and  enfeebled  persons  of  the 
name  of  Wood,  besides  a  gardener,  a  porter,  and  a  chaplain,  with 
L.  17  a  year.  He  appointed  the  Earl  of  Wemyss,  the  lairds  of 
Largo,  Lundin,  and  Balfour,  together  with  the  minister,  and  rema- 
nent members  of  the  kirk-session,  as  patrons.  The  hospital  was 
built  in  1667,  at  an  expense.  Lament  says,  of  9000  merks.  This 
hospital  was  found  in  a  state  of  great  decay  in  1830,  and  the  pa- 
trons erected  a  new  one,  which  is  not  only  a  commodious,  but  a 
very  handsome  and  ornamental  building,  after  a  design  by  Mr 
James  Leslie,  civil-engineer.  It  cost  in  all  L.  2000.  It  is  fitted 
up  for  sixteen  inmates,  each  having  a  sitting  and  a  sleeping  apart- 
ment. In  the  centre  is  a  large  hall,  where  they  are  convened  to 
prayers,  morning  and  evening  ;  above  which,  is  a  room  for  the  meet- 
ings of  the  patrons.  The  annual  allowance  to  each  hospitaler  is 
L.  15  paid  monthly,  and  vegetables.  The  funds  arise  from  the 
interest  of  L.  2000,  and  a  farm,  the  rent  of  which  averages  L.  280. 

Socu'izes.— There  were  two  Friendly  Societies,  but  they  were 
lately  dissolved,  having  been  found,  like  many  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, to  be  calculated  on  too  low  a  principle. 

Savings  Bank.— A  savings  bank,  gratuitously  managed  by  the 
parochial  teacher,  has  been  in  active  operation  since  1815.  The 
average  of  the  whole  deposits  is  about  L.  1200,  and  about  L.250 
is  annually  invested  and  withdrawn.  The  investments  are  made 
by  servants,  labourers,  weavers,  and  mechanics. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— average  number  of  persons 
receiving  parochial  aid,  and  regularly  on  the  poor  list,  is  40,  and 
their  average  allowance  Is.  a  week.  The  annual  amount  of  col- 
lections at  the  church  door  for  five  years  has  been  L.  37,  L.  46, 
L  35,  L.  36,  and  L.  31,  and  of  mortcloths  L.  3  per  annum.  The 


LARGO. 


445 


latter  fund  has  been  falling  off,  in  consequence  of  a  subscription 
mortcloth  being  most  frequently  employed.  It  used  to  be  L.  8. 
Voluntary  contributions  are  the  only  other  source  of  income  for 
the  poor,  and  these,  from  the  unwonted  number  of  insane  and  fa- 
tuous persons  of  late,  have  been  very  high,  amounting  for  three 
years,  in  1835  to  L.  100;  in  1836,  to  L.  250;  in  1837,  to  L.  100. 
Nevertheless,  the  heritors  most  wisely  refrain  from  resorting  to  pa- 
rochial assessment.  It  is  desirable  that  this  forbearance  were  met 
by  a  more  general  disposition,  on  the  part  of  the  people,  to  contri- 
bute to  the  funds  of  the  poor,  and  also  by  a  greater  reluctance  to 
resort  to  the  aid  of  these  funds.  There  are  many  in  need,  by  whom 
relief  will  not  be  sought  as  a  favour  ;  by  the  majority,  it  is  consi- 
dered and  claimed  as  a  right. 

Inns  and  Ale-houses. — There  are  4  innsand  16licensed  ale-houses 
in  the  parish.  The  latter  are  much  more  numerous  than  necessary, 
and  unquestionably  have  a  pernicious  influence  on  the  morals  of  many 
of  the  people.  At  the  same  time,  it  may  be  doubted  if  their  being 
compelled  to  observe  the  regulations  imposed  on  them  by  ]a,w 
more  strictly,  would  prove  beneficial,  unless  it  were  possible  to  pre- 
vent a  most  detrimental  practice  beginning  here,  and  prevalent 
elsewhere,  viz.  their  selling  spirits,  which  are  used  not  on  the  pre- 
mises, but  in  private  houses. 

Fuel. — Scarcely  any  fuel  except  coal  is  consumed.  It  is  obtaih- 
ed,  in  the  parish,  of  an  inferior  sort  at  6s. ;  and  from  Wemyss  and 
Largo  ward,  at  10s.  per  ton,  inclusive  of  driving. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  general  condition  of  the  parish  has 
been  improved  since  the  date  of  the  last  Statistical  Account.  Much 
has  been  done  for  it  in  every  department  of  agriculture,  and  the 
common  comforts  of  life  are  more  extensively  diff"used.  The  ga- 
therings at  tent-preachings,  which  used  to  amount  to  3000  and 
4000  at  every  Sacrament,  are  now  entirely  unknown.  Beggars, 
with  whom  the  parish  was  wont  to  be  infested,  are  now,  by  the  ex- 
ertions of  a  new  system  of  police,  scarcely  ever  seen.  Religious 
animosities,  which  were  carried  to  a  disgraceful  height,  have  great- 
ly subsided.  And  withal,  whilst  it  must  be  wished  that  family  wor- 
ship were  more  cultivated,  the  "  honouring  of  all  men"  more  practis- 
ed, and  their  mental  resources  more  employed  by  the  body  of  the 
population,  still  they  may  be  viewed  as  distinguished  by  shrewd- 
ness, and  industry,  and  intelligence,  and  will  no  doubt  participate 
in  the  progressive  changes  and  improvements  of  the  age. 

November  1837. 


PARISH  OF  BALLINGRY. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKCALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JAMES  GREIG,  MINISTER. 


1. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Origin  of  the  Name. — Ballingry  is  said  to  signify  the  village  of 
the  cross,  and  to  be  compounded  of  the  Gaelic  word  Bal,  a  village, 
and  the  initials  inscribed  on  crosses  in  the  fields,  J.  N.  R.  J.  Jesus 
Nazarenus  Rex  Judceorum,  Jesus  of  Nazareth,  King  of  the  Jew^s. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  parish  is  irregular.  It  is  about 
4.  miles  in  length,  and  2  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  parishes  of  Kinglassie  and  Auchterderran  ;  on  the 
south  by  Auchterderran  and  Beath ;  on  the  west  by  Cleish ;  on 
the  north  by  Portmoak. 

Soil. — The  soil  on  the  northern  division  of  this  parish  is  good; 
some  of  it  dry  and  fit  for  any  crop ;  on  the  south  part  it  is  of  a 
cold  bottom,  but  well  adapted  for  pasturage,  in  which  a  great  part 
of  the  land  has  been  lying  for  many  years. 

Wood. — About  57  acres  were  planted,  more  than  twenty  years 
ago,  with  a  variety  of  forest  trees,  on  the  south  front  of  Binarty, 
the  only  hill  in  the  parish,  which  is  now  a  very  thriving  plantation, 
and  a  great  ornament  of  the  country.  The  larch  soon  rises  above 
the  other  trees.  Including  the  above,  there  are  about  127  acres 
in  planting  on  the  estate  of  Lochore.  A  large  ash  tree  on  it  was 
struck  by  the  lightning,  in  August  1831,  which  shattered  a  thick 
branch,  and  rent  the  bark  down  to  the  earth.  There  are  plan- 
tations on  other  properties  in  this  parish. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Antiquities. — No  vestige  remains  of  the  Roman  Camp  said  to 
have  been  in  this  parish.    Near  its  site  is  now  the  steading  of  the 
Chapel  Farm. 

Parochial  Registers. — These  commence  in  1669,  and  contain 
registers  of  marriages,  births,  and  deaths. 

Land-oxoners.—The  chief  land- owners  in  the  parish  are,  The 
Earl  of  Minto,  Lord  Dundas,  Sir  Walter  and  Lady  Scott,  Sir 


HALLINGRY. 


John  Malcolm,  Messrs  William  Briggs,  William  Gilmour,  George 
Greig,  Andrew  Rutherford,  and  Robert  Henderson. 

III. — Population. 

In  1755  the  numbers  were  rated  at,  .  .  464 

When  the  last  Account  of  the  parish  was  drawn  up,  220 
By  the  census  of  1831,  the  males  were  .  209 

females  .  183 


Total,  .  .  392 

Perhaps  20  workmen  engaged  at  two  buildings  in  this  parish 

in  1831,  should  be  deducted,  20 

The  number  at  present,  .  ...  372 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — There  is  little  more  than  a  fourth  in  tillage. 

Number  of  acres,  standard  imperial  measure,  in  tlie  parish,  which  are  either  culti- 
vated or  occasionally  in  tillage,  .  .  -  2837f 

Number  of  acres  which  never  have  been  cultivated,  and  which  remain  con- 
stantly waste,  or  in  pasture,  _  -  .  -  1927^ 

Number  of  acres  that  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  be  culti- 
■     vated,         -  -  -  -  -  -  197 

Number  of  acres  under  wood,  _  .  .  _  234^ 

All  the  acres,  except  300  imperial,  are  Scotch  measure. 

Rental. — The  rental  of  the  parish  is  L.  4160,  18s.  6d. 

The  leases  are  generally  for  nineteen  years. 

Wages. — An  able  young  man,  as  a  farm-servant,  will  get  from 
L.  11  to  L.  12  a-year,  and  his  victuals.  Day-labourers  earn 
Is.  8d.  a  day  in  summer,  and  Is.  6d.  in  winter. 

Produce. — 

Produce  of  grain  of  all  kinds,  whether  cultivated  for  food  of  man  or  the  domestic 
animals,  L.  2903    5  0 

Of  potatoes  and  turnips,  .  .  -  -  .  220  16  0 

Of  hay,  whether  meadow  or  cultivated,         ...  770  1 5  0 

Of  flax,  -  -  -  -  1  15  0 

Annual  thinnings  of  wood,    -  -  -  -  -  -       30  00 


Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised,  -  L.  3926  1 1  0 

Value  of  coal  raised,  -  -  -  L.  9183    6  8 

Draining. — The  bottom  of  Lochore  Loch,  after  it  was  drained, 
yielded  very  abundant  crops  for  some  time,  but  the  drain  is  not  suf- 
ficiently wide  to  carry  off  the  water  in  heavy  rains,  which  overflow 
the  lands,  and  damage  the  grain  occasionally.  The  cut  for  the  w  ater 
of  Leven  is  very  sufficient,  and  passes  through  a  part  of  this  pa- 
rish. The  trustees  of  a  minor  are  improving  his  estate  by  clear- 
ing some  parts  of  it  of  stones,  by  draining,  by  planting  barren  spots, 
and  building  good  steadings.  A  proprietor  has  been,  and  is  still 
carrying  on  great  improvements  in  draining  his  lands.  It  is  hoped 
that  some  will  follow  his  example. 

Crops  raised  and  time  of  Sowing. —  Oats  is  the  grain  most  ge- 
nerally sown  here ;  barley  is  also  sown,  and  it  is  accounted  the 
most  profitable  crop.    There  is  also  some  wheat,  and  pease  and 


448 


FIPKSIIIRE. 


beans  sown.  Oats  are  sown  in  March  or  beginning  of  April,  and 
early  oats  in  the  first  of  May ;  barley  is  sown  in  April.  The  most 
approved  rotation  is  one  crop  of  oats,  then  a  green  crop,  and  the 
third  a  crop  of  oats  or  barley,  with  grass  seeds.  The  next  crop  is 
hay,  and  then  pasture  for  some  time.  The  different  estates  in  the 
parish  are  bound  thirle  to  Inchgaw  mill. 

Coal  and  Limestone. — In  this  parish  two  good  coals  are  now 
working,  which  have  an  extensive  sale.  The  limestone  here  is  not 
good,  and  none  of  it  is  wrought  at  present.  Lime  is  brought  here 
from  a  distance  of  some  miles. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Ecclesiastical  State. —  In  1831,  a  commodious  church  was  built, 
sufficient  for  the  inhabitants.  The  number  of  families  attending 
the  Established  Church  is  53,  and  that  of  Dissenters  16.  The 
stipend  was  decerned  by  the  Court  in  1810,  to  be  nine  chalders 
of  victual,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  and  such  a  further  quantity 
of  victual  as  shall  be  equal  to  L.  45,  lis.  4/gd.  Sterling;  but  the 
full  amount  has  not  been  drawn,  as  a  process  is  still  pending  about 
the  valuation  of  an  estate  in  the  parish.  The  amount  of  stipend 
converted  into  money  is  L.  209,  14s.  lOd.  The  glebe  extends  to 
8  J  acres. 

Education. — A  school  and  a  house  for  the  teacher,  who  has  the 
maximum  salary,  was  built  in  1825.  His  school  fees  may  amount 
to  L.  7  Sterling  yearly ;  and  he  has  besides  L.  2,  2s.,  and  two  bolls 
of  oatmeal  in  lieu  of  garden  ground. 

Poor  Funds. — The  poor  sustained  a  loss  by  exchanging  their 
land  for  what  was  not  so  good  as  what  they  had.  Their'  land  is 
feued  at  L.  21  Sterhng  yearly.  The  collections  at  the  church 
doors  may  average  about  L.  7  Sterling  a-year.  The  number  on 
the  roll  has  been  nine  for  some  years,  who  receive  from  3s.  to  7s. 
a-month.  A  late  proprietor  left  a  legacy  of  L.  1 00  Sterling  to 
the  poor's  fund.  There  is  an  infirm  woman,  who  is  very  reluctant 
to  be  put  on  the  roll,  although  she  needs  assistance.  This  is  a 
singular  case. 

Jnns. — There  are  two  houses  in  which  malt  and  spirituous 
liquors  are  sold  by  legal  license,  but  in  one  of  them  none  is  given 
to  such  as  are  intoxicated.  This  laudable  example  is  worthy  of 
the  imitation  of  all  engaged  in  the  sale  of  ardent  spirits.  Were 
it  universally  followed,  society  would  derive  the  greatest  benefit 
from  it.    The  inhabitants  are  generally  sober  and  industrious. 

December  1837. 


PARISH  OF  ST  ANDREWS. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  R.  HALDANE,  D.  D.  1  tv/ttxttct^pr  c 
THE  REV.  GEORGE  BUIST,  D.  D.  /MINISTERS. 


1. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — Prior  to  the  period  of  the  introduction  of  Christ- 
ianity into  Scotland,  the  district  of  the  country  by  which  St  An- 
drews is  surrounded  wore  the  aspect  of  a  forest,  in  which  a  few 
patches  of  cultivated  ground  seem  to  have  been  interspersed.  In 
this  forest,  the  hog  or  swine  in  its  wild  state  abounded ;  and  from 
this  circumstance,  it  was  denominated  by  the  Picts,  who  at  that 
period  occupied  the  east  coast  of  Scotland,  Miicros,  muc  in  their 
language,  which  was  the  Celtic  or  Gaelic,  signifying  a  sow  or  boar, 
and  ros,  a  peninsula  or  promontory.    The  correctness  of  this  deri- 
vation is  confirmed  by  the  fact,  that  near  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  parish,  the  village  of  Boarhills  still  retains,  the  original  name 
of  the  district,  but  translated  into  the  modern  language.  The  Picts 
at  this  period  were  a  rude  people,  and  their  religious  opinions  and 
observances  were  regulated  by  the  Druids.    The  early  Scottish 
'historians  inform  us,  that,  towards  the  close  of  the  fourth  cen- 
tury of  the  Christian  era,  a  Greek  monk  named  Regulus,  from 
the  province  of  Achaia,  was  directed  in  a  vision  to  leave  his  native 
country  in  a  ship,  attended  by  a  number  of  religious  devotees,  and 
carrying  along  with  him  certain  of  the  bones  or  relics  of  the  apostle 
Andrew.    With  this  mandate  he  complied ;  and,  after  a  long  and 
dangerous  navigation,  he  and  his  associates  were  shipwrecked  near 
the  spot  where  the  city  of  St  Andrews  now  stands,  with  the  loss 
of  every  thing  but  their  lives  and  the  sacred  relics.  The  appear- 
ance of  men  so  different  in  their  aspect  from  what  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  witness,  arrested  the  attention  of  the  native  inha- 
bitants of  the  district,  and  information  of  the  event  was  communi- 
cated to  the  sovereign  of  the  country,  then  resident  at  Abernethy, 
his  capital,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  junction  of  the  Earne  and  Tay. 

The  curiosity  of  the  monarch  was  aroused  at  the  intelligence,  and 
FIFE.  u  f 


450 


FIFESHIRE 


he  resolved  to  visit  the  strangers  in  person.    He  was  fascinated 
with  their  appearance,  and  conversation,  and  doctrine.    He  was 
induced  by  them  to  abandon  his  idolatrous  notions,  and  to  become 
a  convert  to  the  Christian  faith  ;  and  many  of  his  subjects,  impres- 
sed with  the  same  sentiments,  followed  his  example.    To  manifest 
his  gratitude  to  his  new  spiritual  guides,  he  put  them  in  possession 
of  a  proper  place  of  residence,  with  an  extensive  territorial  domain ; 
and  he  erected  for  them  a  chapel  and  tower,  which  some  writers 
imagine  are  the  same  which  still  subsist  in  a  good  state  of  preser- 
vation in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  ruins  of  the  cathedral,  and 
which  still  bear  the  name  of  the  Grecian  saint.  To  commemorate 
the  happy  change  which  their  arrival  and  preaching  had  been  the 
means  of  introducing,  the  King  changed  the  name  of  their  place 
of  residence  from  Mucros  to  Kilremonth,  which  means  the  cell 
or  chapel  of  the  King  on  the  mount,  according  to  some  of  the 
ancient  authorities ;  and  afterwards  to  Kilrule,  the  cell  or  chapel 
of  Regulus  or  Rule.    This  last  name  was  retained  so  long  as  the 
government  of  the  Picts  was  recognized ;  but  when  their  territo- 
ries were  subjugated  by  the  Scots  under  Kenneth  11.  that  prince, 
who  recognized  the  apostle  Andrew  as  his  patron  saint,  altered  the 
name  of  the  place  where  his  relics  were  deposited  to  St  Andrews, 
the  name  which  it  still  retains.    The  Pictish  designation,  however, 
is  still  adhered  to  by  the  Highlanders  of  Scotland,  who  employ  the 
Gaelic  language. 

Extent. — The  parish  of  St  Andrews  is  about  10  miles  in  length, 
but  the  medium  breadth  is  not  quite  2  miles,  the  area  compre- 
hending a  space  of  between  17  and  18  square  miles. 

Boundaries. — It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Eden,  which 
separates  it  from  the  parish  of  Leuchars,  till  it  reach  the  German 
Ocean ;  and  by  the  ocean,  from  that  point  to  its  eastern  extremity  ; 
on  the  east,  by  the  stream  denominated  Kenloway  or  Kenly,  which 
separates  it  from  the  parishes  of  Kingsbarns  and  St  Leonards ;  and 
by  the  parishes  of  Dunino,  Cameron,  Ceres,  and  Kemback,  on  the 
south  and  west. 

Topograpliical  J]}peai'ances. — No  part  of  the  parish  rises  to  a 
great  elevation,  the  hills  of  East  and  West  Balrymonth,  which 
are  the  highest  in  the  eastern  division,  being,  the  former,  360,  and 
the  latter,  375  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  as  ascertained  by 
accurate  barometrical  measurements ;  and  the  hill  of  Clatto,  in  the 
western  division,  rises  to  the  elevation  of  548  feet.  The  low  and 
flat  lands  in  the  parish  extend  to  from  600  to  800  acres,  more  than 


ST  ANDREWS. 


451 


the  half  of  which  are  in  a  regular  course  of  tillage,  and  the  remain- 
der form  the  links  or  downs,  which  extend  from  the  estuary  of  the 
Eden  to  the  vicinity  of  the  city,  and  which,  while  they  are  highly 
useful  as  a  place  of  recreation  for  the  citizens,  afford  also  pasture 
for  sheep. 

A  few  years  ago,  there  were  several  caves  among  the  rocks  over- 
hanging the  sea  in  the  vicinity  of  the  castle.  Their  dimensions 
were  but  small,  and  they  bore  strong  marks  of  being,  partly  at  least, 
artificial.  But  in  consequence  of  the  encroachments  of  the  watery 
element  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  they  have  now  almost  entirely 
disappeared.  About  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  city,  in  the  cliffs 
which  bound  the  ocean,  there  is  a  natural  cave  of  considerable  di- 
mensions, which  is  usually  denominated  Kinkell  cave.  It  penetrates 
from  seventy  to  eighty  feet  inwards,  with  a  breadth  in  the  centre  of 
about  twenty-five  feet,  and  a  height  on  the  west  side  of  ten  or  eleven 
feet;  but  the  roof,  which  seems  to  consist  of  a  single  stone  form- 
ing throughout  a  perfect  plane,  dips  so  much  towards  the  east  as 
to  terminate  in  the  floor,  forming  with  it  an  acute  angle.  Part  of 
the  floor  and  the  west  side,  where  there  is  a  constant  dropping  of 
water  from  the  roof,  are  covered  with  plants,  which  continue  to 
grow  to  nearly  forty  feet  from  the  entrance,  which  is  much  more 
contracted  than  the  cave  itself.  This  cave  is  easily  accessible,  and 
it  is  frequently  visited,  especially  during  the  summer  months,  by 
the  citizens  and  their  visitants. 

The  sea-coast  of  this  parish  is  about  six  miles  in  extent,  of  which 
two  to  the  north  and  east  of  the  city  are  low,  consisting  of  sand- 
hills of  little  elevation,  which  form  the  eastern  boundaries  of  the 
links;  and  the  remaining  four  are  elevated  from  50  to  100  feet,  in 
some  places  perpendicular,  and  presenting  only  the  sandstone  rock ; 
but  in  others,  where  layers  of  clay  and  other  loose  materials  alter- 
nate with  the  rock,  the  declivity  is  less  abrupt,  and  the  surface  pre- 
sents a  covering  of  grass,  with  a  variety  of  other  native  plants  and 
stunted  shrubs  interspersed.  In  this  line  of  coast,  there  are  several  in- 
sulated rocks  of  considerable  dimensions,  as  the  Maiden  Rock,  which 
is  skirted  by  the  sea,  and  which  rises,  like  an  irregular  piece  of 
masonry,  to  a  height  of  about  forty  feet,  from  a  base  of  about  the 
same  extent,  and  from  six  to  twelve  feet  in  thickness.  The  rock  and 
spindle  at  Kinkell  are  striking  objects,  and  will  be  afterwards  al- 
luded to ;  and  the  Buddo  Rock,  in  the  vicinity  of  Boarhills,  is  also 
calculated  to  arrest  the  attention. 

Meteorology.— The.  following  table,  which  was  constructed  with 


452 


FIFESIIIRE. 


much  care  and  accuracy  by  the  late  much  lamented  Dr  Jackson, 
Professor  of  Natural  Philosophy  in  the  University  of  St  Andrews, 
from  observations  of  the  thermometer  for  eight  years,  at  10  a.  m. 
and  10  r.  m.  daily,  at  a  station  elevated  about  seventy-eight  feet 
above  the  mean  level  of  the  sea,  and  with  a  northern  exposure,  will 
afford  a  correct  view  of  the  mean  temperature  of  the  several  months 
of  the  year  at  St  Andrews,  in  Latitude  56°  20'  30"  north,  and  Lon- 
gitude 2°  47'  30"  west. 


Jan. 
Feb.  . 
March, 
April, 
May,  . 
June,  , 
July,  . 
August, 
Sept.  . 
Oct.  . 
Nov.  . 
Dec.  . 


1821. 


37° 

39 

40 

47 

47 

52 

57 

58 

56 

49 

42 

40 


1822. 


Mean  an 
temp. 


.851 
,375 
.987 
.041 
.603 
.740 
.863 
.608 
.716 
.255 
.665 
.153 


39° 
40 
43 
46 
52 
58 
58 
58 
52 
48 
44 
37 


182? 


1824.  1825. 


47  .571 


.97435° 
.99434  , 
.456  39 
.52543 
.097  51 
.642  53 
.681  57 
.34856 
.276  53 
.585  46 
.46345 
.619  38 


63240° 

56440 

919  39 

.87646 

.56251 

.75854 

.36660 

.70557 

.67055 

.62147 

.98040 

.36938 

I  ■ 


.83930°. 
.284  39 
.74141 
.341  47 
.16149 
.467  57 
.33161 
.645  60 
.077  58 
.281  50 
.989 39 
.395  39 


1826. 


072 
500 
.750 
.683 
.471 
,.323 
.174 
.508 
.216 
.438 
.467 
.419 


34° 

41 

42 

48 

52 

64 

64 

62 

56 

50 

39 

40 


48  .47346  50247  .71247  .918 


845 
982 
346 
,126 
,892 
.063 
,766 
.295 
.267 
.403 
.845 
.817 


1827. 


36°. 
35 
40 
46 
51 
57 
60 
58 
56 
52 
43 
42 


1828. 


Mean  of 
8  years. 


49  .887 


707  40° 

531  40 

.73444 

.05846 

.585j53 

.78059 

.679'60 

.437,60 

.62057 

.484'50 

.612:46 

.662|44 

I, 


.871 
.562 
.269 
.342 
.028 
.837 
.596 
.712 
.244 
.172 
.396 
.253 


37°.099 

39  .099 

41  .630 
46  .499 
51  .175 
57  .326 
60  .182 
59  .157 
55  .761 
49  .409 

42  .927 

40  .209 


48  .57450  .357 


48  .374 


The  last  number  in  the  table,  viz.  48°.374,  is  the  mean  annual 
temperature  taken  as  the  mean  of  the  mean  monthly  temperature 
for  the  above  eight  years. 

The  climate  of  the  parish  is  dry  and  healthy.  The  swamps  and 
morasses  which  existed  at  a  former  period,  in  the  low  grounds,  have 
been  thoroughly  drained.  The  situation  of  the  city  is  particular- 
ly salubrious,  the  soil  being  dry,  and  elevated  from  60  to  70  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  south-west  is  the  prevailing  wmd 
for  the  year;  but  in  April  and  May  the  east  wind  generally  pre- 
dominates. It  is  then,  as  over  the  greater  part  of  the  east  coast 
of  the  kingdom,  peculiarly  piercing  and  chilly,  and  is  regarded  as 
injurious  to  persons  of  a  delicate  constitution. 

From  a  report  in  manuscript  drawn  up  in  1827  by  one  of  the 
physicians  established  in  the  city,  the  following  excerpts  will  aflford 
an  idea  of  the  state  of  the  city,  so  far  as  the  health  of  its  citizens 
is  concerned  :  "  The  great  width  of  the  streets,  and  the  extensive 
gardens  interspersed,  afford  the  fullest  ventilation ;  and,  except  in 
some  of  the  narrow  closes,  there  is  no  obstacle  to  the  admission 
of  pure  air  into  the  houses  of  the  inhabitants.  There  are  no  com- 
mon sewers  for  the  reception  of  rain  water  in  the  streets,  the  whole 

3 


ST  ANDREWS. 


453 


being  conducted  in  open  gutters.  I  notice  this,  as  several  authors 
of  topographical  sketches  reckon  the  stagnation  of  the  putrid  water  in 
tliese  sewers  as  the  cause  of  unhealthiness  in  many  large  cities.  We 
have  no  table  of  the  ages  to  which  the  inhabitants  live,  but  I  am 
persuaded  that  the  average  of  years  is  greater  than  in  most  other 
towns.  In  1814,  there  were  alive,  within  twenty  doors  of  each 
other,  not  fewer  than  six  persons,  the  youngest  of  whom  was  above 
ninety.  Epidemic  diseases  are  scarcely  known  in  the  city.  Dur- 
ing a  residence  of  nearly  twenty  years,  I  have  not  known  typhus 
fever  epidemic  within  it,  though  it  has  prevailed  in  the  neighbour- 
ing districts.  In  1810,  it  was  very  prevalent  in  the  parish,  parti- 
cularly in  the  western  division,  where,  in  one  small  village,  I  had 
at  one  time  nearly  70  patients,  while  in  the  city  there  were  few  or 
none.  The  same  took  place  in  1818,  when  St  Andrews  seemed 
to  be  the  only  place  in  the  united  kingdom  which  was  not  visited 
by  that  epidemic.  Intermittents  are  rare,  but  I  have  seen  several 
cases  ;  all,  however,  from  a  distance.  The  exanthemata  have  been 
occasionally  prevalent,  but  seldom  have  proved  very  fatal.  In  1816, 
there  were  about  120  cases  of  well-marked  scarlet  fever,  of  which 
only  8  or  9  died ;  and,  though  measles  and  hooping-cough  prevail- 
ed the  same  year,  the  number  of  deaths  that  year  was  not  beyond 
the  average.  In  1826,  measles  were  very  prevalent,  and  the  mor- 
taUty  was  much  greater,  the  number  of  deaths  being  nearly  40 
above  the  usual  average.  Measles  had  not  appeared  in  St  An- 
drews during  the  preceding  nine  years,  and  a  great  number  of  chil- 
dren were  affected,  many  of  whom  fell  victims  to  the  secondary 
symptoms.  Inflammatory  complaints,  especially  of  the  chest,  are 
of  frequent  occurrence,  but  do  not  appear  to  be  more  severe  than 
in  other  parts  of  Scotland.  Rheumatism,  in  the  acute  form,  is  a 
frequent  complaint.  I  think  that  thp  number  of  cases  of  haemop- 
tysis and  of  phthisis  is  smaller  than  in  the  neighbouring  districts, 
owing,  perhaps,  to  the  want  of  manufactures.  Catarrh  is  a  fre- 
quent complaint,  and  I  have  often  seen  it  contagious.  .The  amuse- 
ment of  golf,  which  is  general  with  all  ranks,  is  the  best  prophy- 
lactic in  preventing  dyspepsia  and  hypochondriasis,  which  occa- 
sionally occur." 

The  following  table  contains  a  statement  of  the  amount  of  the 
rain  which  fell  at  St  Andrews  in  1835  and  1836,  as  ascertained 
by  Dr  Jackson's  rain-gage,  elevated  6f  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ground  : 


454 


FIFKSHIRE. 


1835.  1836. 

January,  -         0.33  2.27 

February,  -       2.48  1-23 

Marcb,  -          1-80  4.43 

April,    -  -      1.213  2.17 

May  -         1-633  0.64 

June,     -  -       1-10  1.60 

July,  -          1.38  4.48 

August,  -       3.12  2.07 

September,  -          4.19  3.60 

October,  -       1.99  3.28 

November,  .           3.03  3.78 

December,  -       1.77  2.4.9 


Total  in  inches,  24.28  34.00 
Hydrography. — Springs  are  to  be  found  in  the  various  districts 
of  the  parish ;  but  with  the  exception  of  one  nearly  a  mile  to  the 
east  of  the  city,  at  the  foot  of  the  rocky  eminence  which  skirts 
the  ocean,  and  another  on  the  lands  of  Bonytoun,  both  of  which 
are  impregnated  with  iron,  they  have  nothing  remarkable  in  their 
appearance  or  properties.  The  temperature  of  a  well,  at  the 
depth  of  21  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  St  Salvator's  College,  was  carefully  examined  by  Dr 
Jackson,  during  the  years  1821,  1822,  and  1823,  when  its  medium 
was  found  to  be  46°.95l,  Fahrenheit,  while  the  medium  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  for  the  same  years  was  47°.265. 

Two  small  streams  have  their  origin  in  the  parish,  and  fall  into 
the  sea,  the  one  on  the  south-east,  and  the  other  on  the  north-west 
of  the  city.    The  course  of  the  larger  does  not  exceed  five  miles ; 
it  passes  through  the  harbour,  after  having  previously  communi- 
cated motion  to  the  machinery  of  several  corn-mills.    The  other 
stream  is  much  smaller,  and  is  not  applied  to  any  useful  purpose. 
The  Eden,  which  forms  the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish  for 
about  four  miles,  and  which  enters  the  German  Ocean  a  mile  and 
a-half  to  the  north  of  the  city,  has  altogether  a  course  of  about 
twenty-five  miles.    And  the  course  of  the  Kenly,  which  forms 
another  of  the  parish  boundaries,  is  from  six  to  eight  miles.  The 
tide  flows  up  the  Eden  about  four  miles,  when  its  farther  progress, 
except  at  high  spring  tides,  is  prevented  by  Nydie  mill-dam,  which 
forms  the  boundary  of  the  parish  in  that  direction.    For  nearly 
the  half  of  this  distance,  it  has  a  considerable  estuary,  which  is  co- 
vered by  the  sea  at  high  water,  and  is  then  navigable  for  vessels 
of  an  hundred  or  an  hundred  and  twenty  tons.    But  when  the 
tide  retires,  the  greater  part  of  it  presents  a  surface  of  soft  mud 
and  sand.    As  the  course  of  the  river  through  it  is  winding,  and 
as  there  is  also  a  bar  at  the  entrance  from  the  sea,  the  assistance 


ST  ANDREWS. 


455 


of  a  pilot  becomes  necessary  for  its  safe  navigation.  Towards  its 
centre  it  contains  extensive  beds  of  cockles  and  mussels.  The 
former  are  collected  and  disposed  of  as  a  wholesome  article  of 
diet,  and  the  latter  are  sometimes  applied  to  this  use,  but  they 
are  chiefly  employed  as  bait  by  the  fishermen,  not  only  of  St  An- 
drews, but  of  most  of  the  fishing  stations  within  the  range  of 
twenty  or  thirty  miles.  There  are  no  lakes  nor  cascades  within 
the  limits  of  the  parish. 

Geology.  * — The  geology  and ,  mineralogy  of  the  parish  are 
possessed  of  considerable  interest,  in  consequence  of  the  ex- 
tent of  rocky  coast  by  which  it  is  bounded  on  the  north.  The 
prevailing  strata  are  sandstone,  containing  thin  seams  of  coal, 
and  strata  of  slate  clay,  with  courses  of  clay  ironstone;  thus  in- 
dicating that  the  whole  group  belongs  to  the  carboniferous  se- 
ries. That  they  form  the  lowest  members  of  that  series,  is,  how- 
ever, no  less  certain,  both  from  the  character  of  the  strata  on  which 
they  rest,  which  do  not  belong  to  the  coal  formation  at  all,  and 
from  their  deficiency  in  carboniferous  matter. 

The  sandstone  is  of  a  grayish-yellow  colour.  The  general  dip 
of  its  strata,  where  their  bearings  are  most  uniform,  is  towards  the 
south.  But  in  these  places,  especially  those  that  lie  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  town,  from  the  agency  of  causes  concerning  which 
there  are  differences  of  opinion,  all  uniformity  of  dip  and  direction 
has  either  been  originally  prevented,  or  subsequently  destroyed. 
The  most  curious  convolutions  and  tortu'ous  windings  among  the 
strata  are  everywhere  to  be  observed ;  while  in  some  places,  on 
the  other  hand,  all  traces  of  stratification  vanish.  So  variable  al- 
so is  the  state  of  adhesion  among  the  particles  of  the  rock,  that  in 
one  place  a  mass  will  be  found  quite  friable,  and  in  another,  not 
an  hundred  yards  distant,  another  mass  almost  as  hard  as  flint. 
In  this  sandstone,  globular  and  botryoidal  masses  of  iron  pyrites  are 
of  frequent  occurrence,  and  those  vegetable  organic  remains  which 
are  usually  met  with  in  analogous  strata  are  in  some  places  abun- 
dant. 

The  sandstone  strata  are  very  frequently  separated  by  strata  of 
slate  clay,  in  which  the  vegetable  impressions  proper  to  that  rock, 
when  associated  as  here,  are  of  occasional  occurrence.  And  what 
gives  the  slate  clay  a  certain  degree  of  economic  interest,  are  the 
courses  and  thin  beds  of  clay  ironstone  which  it  usually  con- 

•  For  the  information  contained  in  this  section,  the  writer  of  this  article  is  indebt- 
ed to  the  Rev.  John  Macvicar,  A.  M.  late  Lecturer  on  Natural  History  in  the  United 
College  of  St  Andrews. 


456  FIFESHIIIE. 

tains,  and  which,  at  a  time  when  the  iron  trade  was  more  profit- 
able than  it  is  now,  were  sometimes  collected  and  sent  off  to  the 
Carron  Ironworks. 

At  the  place  to  the  north-west  of  the  town  named  the  Witch- 
lake,  the  phenomena  now  described  may  be  observed.     But  it  is 
chiefly  on  the  coast  to  the  eastward  that  geological  phenomena 
of  interest  are  displayed.     Of  these,  the  constant>arying  direc- 
tion of  the  strata  and  character  of  the  rock  are  very  remarkable. 
But  what  seems  most  worthy  of  notice  in  this  place  is  a  curious 
mass  of  trap  tuff,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  St  Andrews,  of 
which  the  remains  constitute  the  rock  well  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Rock  and  Spindle.    Besides  this  mass,  other  portions  of  trap, 
as  might  be  expected,  occur  in  various  quarters  of  the  parish, 
but  as  they  present  nothing  peculiar  in  their  character,  it  were 
needless  to  describe  them  minutely.    That  the  Rock  and  Spindle, 
however,  is  possessed  of  no  small  interest,  will  be  perceived  from 
the  following  account  of  it  extracted  from  a  paper  on  the  mine- 
ralogy of  the  neighbourhood  of  St  Andrews,  by  the  Rev.  Dr  Flem- 
ing, and  found  in  the  second  volume  of  the  memoirs  of  the  Wer- 
nerian  Society.    "  The  most  curious  circumstance  which  attract- 
ed my  notice  in  examining  this  bed  of  tuff,  was  the  rock  which  is 
well  known  in  the  neighbourhood  of  St  Andrews,  by  the  name 
of  the  Rock  and  Spindle.     This  rock  is  about  40  feet  in  height. 
Towards  the  base  there  is  a  spherical  concretion  of  basalt  ui  the 
form  of  five  or  six-sided  pyramids  meeting  at  the  apex,  giving  to 
the  mass  a  stellate  appearance.    The  mass  is  likewise  divided  not 
in  concentric  layers.    The  basalt  contains  crystals  of  augite  with 
olivine  and  glassy  felspar.    This  concretion  of  basalt  is  surround- 
ed with  the  tuff,  into  which  it  gradually  passes,  and  must  have  been 
completely  enveloped  in  it  previous  to  its  partial  wasting  away  by 
the  action  of  the  sea,  and  of  the  atmosphere.    It  may  be  mention- 
ed in  this  place,  that  the  regular  basaltic  columns  at  Ely,  are  a 
portion  of  a  spherical  concretion  contained  ui  trap  tuff.  Here 
the  concretion  is  only  about  ten  feet  in  diameter  ;  at  Ely  it  is  seve- 
ral hundred  feet."  P.  153.    This  statement  and  explanation  of 
Dr  Fleming,  it  is  proper  to  add,  is  by  a  later  observer,  Mr  R.  H. 
Cunningham,  held  to  be  incorrect :  that  geologist  maintaining  that 
the  basalt  of  the  Rock  and  Spindle  is  not  a  contemporaneous  con- 
cretion of  basalt,  but  part  of  a  vein,  and  of  after  formation  to  the 

tuffa.  '        .    1  •  -1 

Zoology.— 01  the  animals  which  formerly  existed  m  this  pansii, 
and  which  have  now  disappeared,  the  wild  hog  or  boar  was  the 


ST  ANDREWS. 


457 


most  remarkable.  These  were  so  abundant,  at  a  remote  period, 
in  the  district,  that  their  name,  as  has  been  already  remarked, 
was  incorporated  with  its  designation.  At  present  there  appears 
to  be  nothing  connected  with  the  zoology  of  the  parish  of  a  pe- 
culiar character,  the  animals,  both  wild  and  domestic,  resembling 
those  which  are  to  be  found  in  the  other  districts  of  the  country. 
Within  these  few  years,  the  small  insect  denominated  the  Ameri- 
can bug  has  been  very  injurious  to  the  apple  trees  in  the  city  and 
its  vicinity,  and  no  remedy  that  has  hitherto  been  employed  has 
proved  effectual  for  securing  its  destruction. 

The  Eden,  between  the  Guard  Bridge  and  the  sea,  is  during 
the  winter  season  the  resort  of  a  great  variety  of  water-birds ;  and 
during  the  recess  of  the  tide,  a  great  many  species  of  marine  ani- 
mals are  to  be  found  among  the  rocks  on  the  shore.  After  cer- 
tain storms  also,  not  a  few  species  of  shells  are  cast  on  the  west 
sands.  But  the  bottom  of  the  bay  is  generally  sandy,  and  rather 
unproductive  of  organic  forms.  On  comparing  the  number  of  spe- 
cies which  it  yields  with  those  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  it  may  be  said 
that  it  affords  an  illustration  of  the  remark,  that  organized  beings 
are  much  more  abundant  in  estuaries  than  in  bays. 

The  species  of  shell-fish  which  are  of  importance  here,  in  an 
economical  point  of  view,  are  the  cockle  and  mussel,  which  abound 
in  the  estuary  of  the  Eden,  and  the  lobster  and  crab,  which  are 
found  on  the  rocky  shore  between  the  city  and  the  eastern  extre- 
mity of  the  parish. 

Botany. — But  few  rare  plants  flourish  in  this  district,  and  none 
of  them  seem  to  be  deserving  of  particular  notice.  The  close 
plantations  which  exist  in  the  parish  are  in  general  of  the  Scotch 
fir,  and  are  on  the  poorest  of  the  soils,  but  they  are  of  no  great  ex- 
tent. In  the  vicinity  of  some  of  the  landed  proprietor's  houses,  the 
oak,  the  elm,  the  beech,  the  plane,  the  larch,  and  some  other  spe- 
cies of  trees  have  been  introduced.  The  ash  is  more  generally 
diffused  over  the  district  than  any  other  species  of  tree,  its  timber 
being  very  useful  for  the  construction  of  agricultural  implements. 

The  landward  part  of  the  parish  is  not  remark9.ble  for  its  bota- 
nical riches  ;  but  on  the  cliffs  and  banks  which  stretch  towards  the 
east  on  the  sea  shore,  several  of  the  rarer  flowering  plants  and  many 
interesting  species  of  mosses  and  lichens  occur.  The  rocks  be- 
tween high  and  low  water-mark  are  also  covered  with  sea-weeds, 
and  furnish  many  species.  But  here  again  it  may  be  remarked,  that 
from  the  very  friable  nature  of  the  sandstone,  of  which  many  of 
these  rocks  are  composed,  the  marine  botany  of  the  parish  is  pre- 


458 


FlFESllIUH. 


vented  from  rivalling  either  that  on  the  southern  side  of  Fifeness, 
or  on  the  northern  shore  at  Aberbrothwick. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Of  the  parish  at  large  no  ancient  nor  modern  history  has  been 
traced.    The  city  being  the  seat  of  the  Archbishop  and  metropo- 
litan of  the  kingdom,  and  of  the  earliest  of  its  universities,  is  fre- 
quently referred  to  in  the  annals  of  Scottish  history.    No  detail- 
ed account,  however,  of  any  of  its  institutions  appears  to  have  been 
drawn  up  prior  to  the  days  of  Martine,  who  was  secretary  to  two 
of  the  archbishops  previous  to  the  Revolution,  and  who  has  exhi- 
bited in  his  work  entitled  Reliquice  Divi  Andrece^  a  mass  of  valu- 
able information,  relative  to  the  religious  establishments  of  the 
city.    This  production  remained  in  manuscript  for  more  than  a 
century,  and  it  was  at  last  printed  in  a  handsome  manner  at  St 
Andrew's  in  1797,  by  the  University  printer.  About  ten  years  af- 
terwards, the  Rev.  Mr  Grierson,  minister  of  the  parish  of  Cock- 
pen,  published  his  Delineations  of  St  Andrews,  in  which  he  exhi- 
bited a  particular  account  of  every  thing  remarkable  in  the  history 
and  present  state  of  the  city  and  ruins,  the  University,  and  other 
interesting  objects  of  this  ancient  ecclesiastical  capital  of  Scotland. 
And  in  1822,  he  published  a  second  edition  of  his  work  with  consi- 
derable corrections  and  additions.  This  production  furnishes  a  com- 
prehensive view  of  the  ancient  and  modern  state  of  the  city,  and  of 
its  institutions,  and  is  a  useful  manual  both  to  the  citizens,  and  to 
occasional  visitants.    A  short  account  of  the  city  and  its  institu- 
tions has  also  appeared  in  Chambers's  Gazetteer  of  Scotland. 

Historical  Events.— The  principal  historical  events  in  which  the 
city  and  parish  of  St  Andrews  are  concerned,  will  be  found  in  the  ac- 
counts of  the  institutions  to  which  they  refer.  In  addition  to  these,  it 
may  here  be  stated,  that  after  Edward.Lhad  subjugated  Scotland, he 
summoned  the  members  ofthe  Scottish  Parliamentto  meet  him  at  St 
Andrews,  where  he  compelled  them  to  swear  allegiance  to  him.  And 
that  a  few  years  afterwards,  they  again  assembled  at  this  city,  and 
recognized  the  claims  of  Robert  Bruce  to  the  Scottish  throne. 
When  Edward  III.,  with  his  victorious  forces,  overrun  and  sub- 
dued the  greater  part  of  Scotland,  he  placed  a  garrison  in  St  An- 
drews ;  but  after  his  return  to  England,  many  of  his  new  conquests 
were  wrested  from  him.  Among  others,  the  city  and  Castle  of  St 
Andrews  were  besieged  and  taken  after  a  short  resistance,  and  the 
fortifications  of  the  latter  were  in  a  great  measure  destroyed.— In 
1401,  the  unfortunate  Duke  of  Rothsay  was  imprisoned  in  (he 


ST  ANDREWS. 


459 


Castle  of  St  Andrews,  by  his  uncle,  the  Duke  of  Albany,  the  Re- 
gent of  the  kingdom,  previous  to  his  removal  to  Falkland,  where 
he  was  starved  to  death. — A  few  years  afterwards  John  Resby  and 
Paul  Craw,  were  committed  to  the  flames  at  St  Andrews,  for  pro- 
pagating what  was  then  held  to  be  heretical  doctrine. — In  1471, 
the  Bishop  of  St  Andrews  was  invested  by  the  Pope  with  archie- 
piscopal  dignity,  and  this  his  successors  in  office,  whether  of  the 
Romish  or  of  the  Protestant  faith,  afterwards  retained. — After  the 
tenets  of  the  Reformation  had  begun  to  be  disseminated  in  Scot- 
land, several  individuals  were  tried  at  St  Andrews,  as  supporters  of 
the  new  opinions,  and  condemned  to  the  flames.  Among  these 
were  Patrick  Hamilton,  Abbot  of  Fearn,  and  nephew  to  the  Earl 
of  Arran  ,•  and  George  Wishart,  son  of  the  proprietor  of  Pittarrow, 
in  the  Mearns,  whose  cruel  and  untimely  deaths  were  greatly  la- 
mented by  the  community  at  large.  The  celebrated^  George  Bu- 
chanan avoided  a  similar  fate,  by  escaping  from  imprisonment  in 
the  Castle  of  St  Andrews. — These  events  were  followed  by  the 
murder  of  Cardinal  Beaton  in  1546,  and  the  subsequent  siege,  sur- 
render, and  partial  demolition  of  the  castle,  which  had  been  garri- 
soned by  the  conspirators.  Two  of  what,  it  is  supposed,  were  cannon 
balls,  employed  at  that  siege,  were  some  years  ago  found  by  some 
young  men  among  the  rocks  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  castle. 
They  are  now  in  the  custody  of  the  Professor  of  Chemistry,  and 
were  covered  when  found,  with  a  calcareous  incrustation.  The 
one  of  them  had  undergone  a  considerable  alteration,  being  soft  on 
the  surface,  and  resembling  a  carburet  of  iron,  while  the  other  re- 
tained its  original  hardness. — In  June  1583,  James  VI.  escaped 
from  the  influence  of  the  noblemen  who  had  placed  him  under  per- 
sonal restraint  at  Ruthven,  by  entering  the  Castle  of  St  Andrews, 
where  he  was  soon  joined  by  a  number  of  his  well-aff'ected  subjects. 
This  prince  frequently  visited  St  Andrews  while  he  remained  in 
Scotland ;  and  when,  after  his  accession  to  the  English  throne,  he 
returned  to  it  in  1617,  St  Andrews  was  by  no  means  overlooked. 
Here  he  had  directed  the  prelates,  and  a  number  of  the  influential 
clergy,  to  meet  him,  that  he  might  unfold  to  them  his  views,  rela- 
tive to  subsequent  ecclesiastical  arrangements. — In  1645,  the  Scot- 
tish Parliament  held  its  meetings  in  St  Andrews,  and  among  other 
proceedings  condemned  to  death  Sir  Robert  Spottiswood,  son  of  the 
archbishop  of  that  name,  and  three  other  gentlemen  who  had  sup- 
ported the  royal  cause,  and  had  been  taken  prisoners  at  the  battle 
of  Philiphaugh,  and  who  were  afterwards  executed  in  the  princi- 
pal street  of  the  city. — In  May  1679,  James  Sharp,  Archbishop  of 


460 


riFESHIRE. 


St  Andrews,  who  had  been  a  zealous  supporter  of  the  measures  of 
the  Court,  against  the  opponents  of  Episcopacy,  was  murdered  at 
Magus  Muir,  near  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish,  by  a  party 
of  the  Covenanters,  who  had  assembled  not  for  this  purpose,  but 
for  the  avowed  object  of  waylaying  and  destroying  the  Sheriff-sub- 
stitute of  the  county  of  Fife,  who,  instigated  by  the  Archbishop, 
had  been  a  violent  persecutor  of  the  Presbyterians,  who  resided 
within  the  limits  of  his  jurisdiction.  The  murderers  escaped,  but 
in  the  month  of  November  following,  five  of  the  insurgents,  who 
had  been  taken  prisoners  at  the  battle  of  Bothwell  Bridge,  were 
executed,  and  their  bodies  were  hung  in  chains,  at  the  spot  where 
the  murder  had  taken  place.  A  stone  was  afterwards  erected  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  with  an  inscription  commemorative  of  their 
fate,  which  is  still  visited  by  many  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  events. 

Maps,  Sj'c. — No  map  or  survey  of  the  parish  has  been  discovered 
by  the  writer  of  this  article,  nor  any  letters,  papers,  or  documents 
tendingto  illustrate  the  history,  biography,  or  antiquities  of  the  parish, 
with  the  exception  of  the  productions  already  alluded  to,  and  the 
documents  in  the  possession  of  the  city  functionaries,  the  colleges, 
and  the  church  and  commissary  courts.  Many  of  these  are  highly 
interesting  to  the  antiquarian  ;  but  any  detail  of  their  contents, 
that  might  be  satisfactory  or  useful,  would  swell  out  this  article 
far  beyond  all  reasonable  limits. 

Eminent  Men. —  Many  eminent  characters  have  been  connected 
with  this  parish  by  birth,  residence,  or  burial.  Previous  to  the 
estabhshment  of  the  Reformation  in  Scotland,  many  of  the  bishops, 
archbishops,  and  priors  of  St  Andrews  were  distinguished  by  their 
abilities,  and  by  their  influence  in  the  counsels  of  the  nation. 
And  many  of  the  individuals  connected  with  the  university  were 
possessed  of  great  learning  and  of  high  talents.  Towards  the 
middle  of  the  tenth  century,  Constantino  III.  King  of  Scotland, 
after  a  long  reign,  in  which  he  had  ultimately  experienced  many 
reverses  in  his  wars  with  the  English,  wearied  of  his  high  rank 
and  eminence,  retired  from  the  world,  and  took  up  his  residence 
among  the  Culdees  of  St  Andrews,  A.  D.  950,  becoming  the 
prior  or  abbot  of  the  order ;  an  office  which  he  exercised  during 
the  remainder  of  his  life. 

The  prelates  who  occupied  the  important  see  of  St  Andrews 
were  in  general  connected  with  the  first  families  of  the  kingdom. 
They  were  distinguished  by  their  talents,  as  well  as  by  their  edu- 
cation. To  them  the  city  was  indebted  for  its  most  remarkable 
edifices  and  institutions,  such  as  the  erection  of  its  cathedral,  its 


ST  ANDREWS. 


4GI 


priory,  and  its  castle,  and  the  establishment  of  the  university  and 
its  colleges.  A  considerable  number  of  them  left  behind  them 
specimens  of  their  literary  talents.  Thus  Turgot,  who  is  styled 
by  Martine,  the  tutelary  saint  of  Archangel,  and  who  was  Bishop 
of  St  Andrews  about  the  commencement  of  the  twelfth  century, 
composed  in  Latin  a  variety  of  historical  works,  chiefly  referring 
to  the  affairs  of  Scotland.  Of  one  of  these,  viz.  his  Chronicle  of 
Scottish  Affairs,  Fordun's  Scoto-Chronicon  formsthe  continuation; 
and  whoever  is  anxious  to  ascertain  the  titles  of  the  literary  pro- 
ductions of  the  other  prelates,  may  have  his  curiosity  gratified  by 
consulting  Dempster's  Ecclesiastical  History  of  the  Scottish  na- 
tion, where  he  will  find  them  detailed  under  their  respective  names. 
«  In  the  same  production,  he  will  find  an  enumeration  of  the  writings 
of  such  of  the  priors  of  St  Andrews,  professors  of  the  university, 
and  other  individuals  connected  with  the  ecclesiastical  establish- 
ments, as  turned  their  attention  to  literary  pursuits.  Of  these  the 
most  celebrated  as  literary  characters  were  Andrew  Wyntown, 
one  of  the  canons  of  the  Augustinian  Monastery  toward  the  close 
of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  the  author  of  a  poetical  chronicle 
of  Scotland,  composed  not  in  the  Latin  language,  which  was  the 
usual  vehicle  of  the  period,  but  in  the  vernacular  language  of 
the  country  ;  and  which  existed  in  manuscript  only  until  1795, 
when  it  was  printed ;  and  John  Major,  Principal  of  St  Salvator's 
College  towards  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  whose 
history  of  his  country,  in  six  books,  though  written  in  a  rude 
style,  and  though  it  embraces  many  erroneous  and  fabulous  state- 
ments, displays  at  the  same  time  much  boldness  of  spirit.  This 
writer  freely  censures  the  usurpations  of  the  Roman  hierarchy, 
together  with  the  indolence  and  sensuality  that  were,  at  that  pe- 
riod, so  generally  prevalent  among  the  members  of  the  ecclesiasti- 
cal orders.  His  theological  works,  which  were  voluminous,  parti- 
cularly his  Decisiones  Sententiaruvi,  were  held  in  high  estimation 
by  the  theologians  of  the  age. 

After  the  Reformation,  the  splendour  of  the  religious  establish- 
ments at  St  Andrews  was  greatly  curtailed, — a  large  portion  of 
their  revenues  having  been  alienated  to  different  purposes.  The 
succeeding  prelates  were  in  consequence  of  a  less  influential  cha- 
racter, and  less  distinguished  by  their  family  connections.  But 
in  general,  they  were  men  of  respectable  talents.  The  most  dis- 
tinguished among  them  as  a  writer  was  Spottiswood,  the  historian 
of  the  Church  of  Scotland.  Of  the  members  of  the  university 
who  distinguished  themselves  between  the  Reformation  and  the 


462 


FIFES  HIRE. 


Revolution,  were  the  celebrated  George  Buchanan,  who  was  for 
several  years  Principal  of  St  Leonard's  College  ;  Andrew  Melville, 
Principal  of  St  Mary's  College,  the  zealous  and  steady  champion 
of  Presbyterianism,  whose  life,  opinions,  and  exertions  in  the  cause 
of  religion,  have  been  so  ably  detailed  by  Dr  M'Crie ;  Samuel 
Rutherford,  Professor  of  Divinity  and  Principal  of  St  Mary's  Col- 
lege, who  was  one  of  the  members  of  the  Assembly  of  Divines  at 
Westminster,  during  the  civil  waVs,  and  whose  religious  publica- 
lions  are  still  popular  in  Scotland. — James  Wood,  Professor  of 
Divinity,  the  author  of  several  controversial  works,  which  display 
much  acuteness ;  Robert  Blair,  one  of  the  ministers  of  the  city, 
and  one  of  the  leading  members  of  the  church  during  the  troubles 
of  the  times  ;  and  James  Gregory,  Professor  of  Mathematics,  the  . 
celebrated  inventor  of  the  Gregorian  telescope. 

Since  the  era  of  the  Revolution,  among  the  learned  men  who 
have  contributed  to  support  the  lustre  of  the  university,  we  meet 
with  the  names  of  Thomas  Halyburton,  Professor  of  Divinity, 
and  author  of  several  popular  and  controversial  works  ;  Prin- 
cipal Hadow,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  controversy  rela- 
tive to  the  work  entitled  "  The  Marrow  of  Modern  Divinity ;" 
Principal  TulUdeph,  who  left  behind  him  a  valuable  paraphrase 
and  notes  on  the  New  Testament,  which  remain  still  in  ma- 
nuscript ;    Professor  Wilkie,  the  author  of  the  Epigoniad  ; 
Principal  Watson,  the  historian  of  Philip  11.  ;  Professor  Ba- 
ron, the  author  of  Lectures  on  Belles  Lettres  and  Logic,  and 
some  other  productions;  Dr  Wilson,  the  author  of  a  valuable 
Hebrew  Grammar ;  Dr  James  Playfair,  the  author  of  the  ela- 
borate systems  of  chronology  and  geography  which  bear  his 
name  ;  Dr  George  Hill,  who  for  many  years  was  the  leading 
member  of  the  General  Assemblies  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  and 
whose  valuable  Lectures  on  Divinity  were  published  after  his  death; 
Dr  Adam  Ferguson,  the  historian  of  the  Roman  republic,  who 
spent  the  close  of  his  life  in  the  city  that  was  endeared  to  him  by 
his  early  associations  ;  and  Dr  Andrew  Bell,  the  founder  of 
the  Madras  or  national  system  of  education,  who  was  a  native  of 
the  city,  and  who  has  left  behind  him  most  substantial  proofs  of 
the  regard  which  he  felt  for  its  welfare  and  prosperity. 

Had  the  limits  allotted  to  this  article  permitted,  this  section  of 
it  might  have  been  materially  enlarged,  by  additional  names,  and 
by  a  train  of  illustrative  remarks. 

Heritors.  The  Heritors  of  the  parish  form  a  numerous  body. 

Those  of  the  Priory  alone  are  nearly  100  in  number ;  and  in  the  re- 


ST  ANDREWS. 


463 


maining  part  of  the  parish  they  amount  to  nearly  60.  Three  of 
them,  viz.  John  Whyte  Melville,  Esq. ;  James  Home  Rigg,  Esq. ; 
and  the  United  College,  have  each  a  valued  'rent  exceeding 
L.  1200  Scots.  Mrs  Cheape  of  Strathtyrum ;  Alexander  Meldrum, 
Esq.  of  Kincaple;  General  Ramsay  of  Kinkell ;  and  John  A.  Thom- 
son of  Charleton,  have  each  a  valued  rent  between  L.  600  and 
L.  1200.  The  valuation  of  nine  other  heritors  exceeds  L.  300 
each,  and  of  twenty-four  the  valuation  is  from  L.  100  to  L.  300. 

Parochial Eeffisters.—Theo\destYo\nmeoithe  kirk-sessionrecords 
commences  with  the  year  1559,  and  comprehends  the  transactions  of 
that  body  down  to  the  year  1600.  It  presents  many  curious  and  in- 
teresting details  relative  to  the  administration  of  church  discipline, 
and  other  parochial  arrangements,  at  that  early  period  of  the  history 
of  the  Reformed  Church.  The  volume  containing  the  proceedings 
from  1600  to  1638  has  been  lost,  but  from  the  latter  of  these 
dates,  down  to  the  present  time,  the  minutes  have  been  preserved. 
The  existing  register  of  births  and  baptisms  begins  with  the  year 
1626,  and  has  been  continued  to  the  present  time,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  entries  from  1738  to  1742,  which  have  been  lost.  The 
register  of  contracts,  proclamations,  and  marriages,  begins  with 
the  year  1770,  and  that  of  deaths  with  1740,  and  both  have  been 
continued  to  the  present  day.  The  keeper  of  these  records,  how- 
ever, states,  that  they  are  defective  to  a  very  considerable  extent, 
as,  notwithstanding  all  the  means  that  are  employed  by  him  to  en- 
sure the  registration  of  the  births,  many  of  the  parents  neglect 
this  part  of  their  duty.  And  when  the  dead  are  buried  in  other 
cemeteries,  there  is  no  return  of  the  interment  m.ade  to  him,  and 
no  entry  in  his  books. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  the  keepers  of  the  ecclesiastical 
records  in  Scotland  have  been  so  negligent,  that  in  many  of  the 
parishes  they  are  not  to  be  found  of  an  older  date  than  a  century, 
or  a  century  and  a-half.  It  is  probable  that  many  of  the  volumes 
of  these  records,  which  are  supposed  to  be  lost  or  destroyed,  might 
still  be  recovered,  were  the  ministers  of  the  parishes  to  institute  a 
diligent  inquiry  respecting  them.  A  number  of  years  ago,  the 
writer  of  this  article  discovered,  in  the  course  of  an  investigation, 
the  minutes  of  the  Diocaesan  Synod  of  St  Andrews,  commen- 
cing  with  the  year  1611,  and  containing  the  proceedings  of  that 
court  for  above  twenty  years,  which  he  was  enabled  to  place  in 
the  custody  of  the  clerk  of  the  synod  of  Fife.  And  within  these 
lew  years,  he  accidentally  discovered  the  volume  containing  the 
proceedmgs  of  the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews  from  October  1586 


•104 


FIFESHIRE. 


to  December  1605.  This  is  a  highly  interesting  record,  as  it  fur- 
nishes many  details  relative  to  the  proceedings  of  Andrew  Melville 
and  his  associates,  that  are  not  to  be  found  in  any  printed  work. 
This  volume  does  not  appear  to  have  been  in  the  hands  of  the 
presbytery  clerks  for  more  than  a  century.  During  the  first  six 
years  of  the  period  which  it  embraces,  the  presbytery  of  St  An- 
drews comprehended  also  the  parishes  which  now  form  the  pres- 
bytery of  Cupar,  the  first  erection  of  the  latter  presbytery  not  tak- 
ing place  until  October  1592.  This  volume  has  not  yet  been  put 
into  the  hands  of  the  presbytery  clerk,  but  it  is  hoped  that  this 
will  ere  long  be  effected  ;  and  if  this  expectation  should  not  be  re- 
alized, a  transcript  of  it  which  has  been  made  will  be  lodged  with 

the  other  records. 

Antiquities.— The  Chapel  and  Tower  of  St  Regulus  are  understood 
to  be  the  most  ancient  relics  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  that  ex- 
ist at  St  Andrews.  The  date  of  their  erection  cannot  be  correct- 
ly ascertained  ;  but  the  most  ancient  of  our  Scottish  historians  speak 
of  them  as  existing  in  their  times,  and,  indeed,  as  having  already  ex- 
isted for  several  centuries  at  the  period  when  they  wrote.  Some 
contend  that  they  were  erected  as  early  as  the  close  of  the  fourth 
century  of  the  Christian  era,  by  the  Pictish  king  in  whose  terri- 
tories they  were  situated,  at  the  suggestion  of  St  Regulus,  by 
whom  he  had  been  converted  to  the  belief  of  Christianity.  And 
their  appearance  seems  fully  to  warrant  the  conclusion,  that  they 
must  have  been  erected  prior  to  the  introduction  of  the  Saxon  or 
Gothic  architecture.  The  tower,  whose  sides  form  a  square  of 
about  20  feet  each,  and  which  is  108  in  elevation,  appears  to  have 
formed  the  centre  of  the  erection.  Its  appendages  were  two 
wings,  one  to  the  east  and  the  other  to  the  west,  the  correspond- 
ing sides  of  the  tower  having  at  the  bottom  large  doors  or  open- 
ings, by  which  the  three  divisions  might,  according  to  choice,  form 
but  one  apartment.  But  even  in  this  extended  state,  the  dunen- 
sions  of  the  church  or  chapel  must  have  been  but  small,  as  its 
whole  length  would  not  much  exceed  70  feet,  while  its  breadth 
would  vary  from  14  to  20  feet.  The  walls  of  the  apartment  or 
chapel  on  the  east  of  the  tower  have  been  put  in  a  good  state  of 
repair;  but  the  west  wing  has  long  been  entirely  destroyed.  Yet 
from  the  traces  of  the  roof  on  the  side  of  the  tower,  and  from  what 
is  understood  to  have  been  a  representation  of  the  fabric  on  the 
seals  of  the  ancient  charters  connected  with  the  priory,  many  of 
which  still  exist,  the  existence  of  the  west  wing  at  some  former  pe- 
riod seems  to  be  incontrovertibly  established.    The  chapel  and 


ST  ANDKEWS. 


465 


tower,  which  remain,  are  in  good  preservation,  and,  with  a  little  at- 
tention, may  be  kept  in  that  state  for  many  centuries  to  come. 
The  tower  was  covered,  about  fifty  years  ago,  with  a  flat  leaden 
roof,  and  a  small  staircase  of  stone  was  then  also  constructed  with- 
in it,  so  that  there  is  now  access  to  the  summit,  from  which  there 
is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect  when  the  weather  is  favour- 
able. 

The  Cathedral,  which  was  by  far  the  most  extensive  of  the  reli- 
gious erections  at  St  Andrews,  is  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  St  Re- 
gulus'  tower.    It  was  constructed  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross, — 
the  extreme  length  of  the  nave  or  principal  part  of  the  building 
being  about  370  feet,  and  the  breadth  72  feet,  the  thickness  of 
the  walls  included,  and  the  transept  being  in  length  180  feet.  The 
foundation  of  the  building  was  laid  in  the  year  1159,  during  the 
reign  of  Malcolm  IV.  who  was  present  at  the  ceremony,  but  it  was 
not  finished  until  the  reign  of  Robert  Bruce,  who  was  present  at 
its  consecration  in  1318.    About  160  years,  consequently,  elapsed 
between  the  dates  of  the  two  events.    Fifty  years  after  its  conse- 
cration, a  considerable  part  of  the  edifice  was  accidentally  burnt, 
and  after  its  reparation,  the  succeeding  priors  kept  it  in  a  proper 
state  of  repair,  and  some  of  them  contributed  materially  both  to  its 
internal  and  its  external  decoration.    At  the  period  of  the  Refor- 
mation, the  animosity  subsisting  between  the  Roman  Catholics  and 
the  Protestants  in  Scotland  was  strong,  and  had  led  to  an  open 
warfare.    The  celebrated  John  Knox,  the  zealous  supporter  and 
champion  of  Protestantism,  had  for  some  time  been  resident  at.  St 
Andrews,  and  his  public  ministrations  in  this  city  and  in  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  had  been  attended  by  vast  multitudes,  who  adhered 
to  his  views;  and  having  expressed  in  his  discourses  the  notion,  that 
the  destruction  of  the  religious  edifices  might  be  one  of  the  most 
effectual  means  of  eradicating  Popery,  the  heated  multitude  eager- 
ly imbibed  the  idea,  and  proceeded  without  delay  to  put  it  into 
execution.  The  religious  edifices  in  St  Andrews  were  accordingly 
assailed,  and  in  a  very  few  hours,  what  had  been  the  labour  of  ages, 
was  involved  in  ruin.    When  the.  cathedral  was  entire,  it  had°six 
spires  or  turrets,— two  at  each  of  the  extremities  of  the  nave,  one 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  transept,  and  one  in  the  centre  at 
the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept.    The  two  turrets  at  the 
eastern  extremity  and  one  of  the  two  at  the  western  extremity  still 
subsist,  and  rise  to  an  elevation  of  about  100  feet;  the  other  three 
have  long  been  destroyed,— a  small  part  of  the  pillars,  on  which  the 


FIFE.  „ 


4GG  FIFESHIRE. 

central  turret  was  erected,  now  alone  remaining.  But  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  exterior  wall  of  this  once  magnificent  fabric  is  now  in 
existence.    The  area  within  continued  to  be  covered  with  a  mass 
of  rubbish  until  within  these  few  years,  when  the  Honourable  the 
Barons  of  his  Majesty's  Exchequer  directed  it  to  be  removed,  and 
certain  repairs  to  be  executed,  to  promote  the  preservation  of  the 
ruins.    The  plan  of  the  interior  may  now  in  consequence  be  tra- 
ced with  considerable  accuracy.    Several  flat  tombstones  with  de- 
vices and  inscriptions  have  been  exposed,  and  what  apparently 
must  have  been  a  well,  about  forty  feet  deep,  though  now  without 
water.    Nothing,  however,  of  any  material  value  was  disclosed  by 
the  operation. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  cathedral,  were  the  various  buildings  con- 
nected with  the  Priory  or  Augustine  Monastery,  which  was  found- 
ed during  the  reign  of  Alexander  I.,  near  the  commencement  of 
the  twelfth  century,  by  Robert,  Bishop  of  St  Andrews,  and  which 
ultimately  accommodated  no  less  than  thirty-four  conventual  bre- 
thren, besides  the  necessary  domestics.    Martine  states,  that,  at 
the  period  when  his  Reliquiae  were  composed,  or  about  150  years 
ago,  some  of  these  buildings  were  still  entire  ;  and  that  of  others 
considerable  remains  still  existed.  In  the  interval,  however,  which 
has  elapsed  since  that  period,  a  great  change  has  taken  place. 
Most  of  them  have  now  entirely  disappeared,  the  materials  of  which 
they  were  composed  having  been  removed,  and  applied  to  various 
purposes.  And  as  nearly  the  whole  of  the  areas  has  been  convert- 
ed into  garden  ground,  even  the  site  of  several  of  them  can  now 
scarcely  be  ascertained.    The  original  erections  connected  with 
this  establishment  appear  to  have  been  comparatively  of  a  very 
limited  description ;  and  as  its  wealth  and  its  resources  increased, 
the  extent  of  its  buildings  was  enlarged.    At  the  commencement 
of  the  fifteenth  century,  they  were  so  arranged  as  to  form  two 
courts,  and  James  Bisset,  the  prior  at  that  period,  is  represented 
as  having  paved  both.    In  the  days  of  Martine,  so  far  as  a  judg- 
ment may  be  formed  from  his  description,  the  plan  of  the  buildings 
must  have  been  very  irregular.    According  to  Boethius,  this  mo- 
nastery was  excelled  by  none  in  Europe,  either  in  respect  to  the 
extent  of  its  accommodations,  or  to  the  beauty  of  its  architecture. 
A  considerable  portion  of  what  is  denominated  the  abbey  wall, 
which  surrounded  and  enclosed  the  whole,  is  still  in  existence  ;  it 
appears  to  have  been  nearly  half  a  mile  in  extent,  about  4  feet  m 
thickness,  and  '20  feet  in  height.    It  had  originally  sixteen  towers 


ST  ANDREWS. 


467 


or  turrets,  interspersed  at  irregular  distances,  projecting  outward 
several  feet,  and  rising  a  few  feet  higher  than  the  general  level  of 
the  wall.  It  was  erected  by  John  Hepburn,  the  prior,  soon  after 
the  commencement  of  the  sixteenth  century.  There  were  three 
gates  by  which  the  enclosure  might  be  entered,  which,  from  their 
remains,  appear  to  have  been  handsome  ;  that,  in  particular,  which 
is  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  South  Street  of  the  city. 

The  burying -ground  for  the  city  and  parish  was  originally  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  parish  church,  but  as  the  space  al- 
lotted for  the  purpose  wa§  confined,  and  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  it 
was  with  great  propriety,  soon  after  the  Reformation,  transferred 
to  the  vicinity  of  the  cathedral,  where  it  still  continues.  Many  of 
the  monuments  which  are  to  be  found  in  this  cemetery  possess  con- 
siderable interest ;  but  none  of  them  are  of  a  date  so  old  as  the 
era  of  the  Reformation. 

The  Castle  of  St  Andrews  is  situated  about  250  yards  to  the 
north-west  of  the  cathedral,  on  an  eminence  immediately  overhang- 
ing the  sea.  It  was  first  erected  about  the  beginning  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  by  the  bishop  of  that  period,  as  a  place  of  residence 
for  himself  and  his  successors  in  office.  After  standing  nearly  a 
century  and  a  half,  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  and  was 
subsequently  besieged,  taken,  and  demolished  by  the  Scottish 
forces.  It  lay  in  ruins  for  half  a  century,  during  which  period  the 
bishop  resided  within  the  monastery,  and  it  was  rebuilt  by  Bishop 
Trail  near  the  close  of  the  fourteenth  century  It  is  affirmed  that 
James  III.,  King  of  Scotland,  was  born  in  it  in  1460.  After  the 
murder  of  Cardinal  Beaton,  and  the  subsequent  siege,  it  was  dis- 
mantled to  a  considerable  extent ;  but  the  injury  was  in  a  great 
measure  repaired,  a  few  years  afterwards,  by  Archbishop  Hamil- 
ton, and  it  was  occasionally  occupied  by  succeeding  archbishops 
until  the  period  of  the  civil  wars,  when  it  became  uninhabitable ; 
and  the  priory  having  been  annexed  to  the  archbishoprick  in  1633, 
the  prelates  who  held  the  see  after  the  Restoration,  resided  within 
the  monastery  in  the  building  denominated  the  New  Inns.  The 
castle,  when  entire,  formed  a  quadrangle,  with  a  court  in  the  inte- 
rior of  considerable  dimensions.  But,  with  the  exception  of  a  part 
of  the  south  wall,  including  a  handsome  square  tower,  and  a  few 
other  fragments,  it  is  entirely  in  ruins.  The  sea,  within  these  few 
years,  has  made  considerable  encroachments  on  the  east  wing ;  and 
the  northern  division  will  probably  ere  long  share  the  same  fate. 

In  addition  to  the  monastery  of  the  Augustines,  which  was  rich- 


468 


FIFESIIIIIE. 


ly  endowed,  there  were  at  St  Andrews  two  convents  for  friars  of 
the  mendicant  orders.    The  one  of  these  belonged  to  the  Gray 
Friars,  denominated  also  Franciscans  or  Minorites,  and  was  situat- 
ed immediately  without  the  west  port  of  the  North  Street  of  the  city. 
It  was  founded  by  Bishop  Kennedy  about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth 
century,  and  it  became  the  noviciate  of  the  order  in  Scotland  :  it  was 
demolished  at  the  Reformation  ;  and  the  ruins  and  grounds  connect- 
ed with  them  were  conveyed  by  a  charter  from  Queen  Mary  to  the 
provost  and  magistrates  of  the  city  for  the  benefit  of  the  commu- 
nity, and  are  still  in  their  possession.    A  handsome  street  or  row, 
consisting  of  houses  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  erected  accord- 
ing to  a  regular  plan,  has  been  projected  by  the  magistrates  and 
council,  to  occupy  the  grounds  of  this  monastery.    Several  of  the 
houses  have  already  been  erected,  and  several  more  are  to  be  erect- 
ed next  season.    This  street,  when  finished,  will  tend  materially 
to  the  embelHshment  of  the  city,  and  it  will  form  a  very  convenient 
line  of  communication  between  the  North  and  Market  Streets.  It 
has  been  proposed  that  this  street  should  be  continued  in  a  south- 
erly direction,  so  as  to  meet  the  south  or  principal  street  of  the 
city;  and  although  the  arrangements  for  this  purpose  have  not  yet 
been  effected,  it  is  highly  probable  that,  in  a  few  years,  this  part 
of  the  plan  will  also  be  put  into  execution.    It  has  been  named 
Bell  Street,  in  memory  of  the  founder  of  the  Madras  College;  and 
if  it  be  continued  southward,  that  beautiful  erection  will  form  its 
southern  termination.    The  other  convent,  which  was  situated  on 
the  south  side  of  the  South  Street,  belonged  to  the  Black  or  Pre- 
dicant Friars,  denominated  also  Dominicans.    It  was  founded  by 
Bishop  Wishart  in  1274.  It  was  demolished  at  the  Reformation, 
with  the  exception  of  the  chapel,  the  dimensions  of  which  are  very 
limited,  but  the  architecture  is  in  a  rich  Gothic  style.  A  part  of  the 
arched  stone  roof  has  given  way ;  but  Dr  Bell,  in  his  trust-deed  re- 
lative to  the  Madras  College,  within  whose  grounds  it  is  now  situat- 
ed, has  made  provision  for  its  being  kept  in  a  proper  state  of  repair. 

The  Kirkheuch  or  Kirkhill,  was  a  collegiate  church,  having  at- 
tached to  it  a  provost  and  ten  prebendaries.  It  appears  to  have 
belonged  originally  to  the  Culdees,  who  at  an  early  period  were 
held  in  so  high  estimation,  that  Constantino  III.,  after  resigning 
his  crown,  became  abbot  of  the  order.  Its  first  site  appears  to 
have  been  a  rock,  a  little  beyond  the  entrance  of  the  present  har- 
bour; but  the  encroachments  of  the  sea  having  rendered  it  neces- 


ST  ANDUKWS.  469 

sary  to  abandon  this  position,  it  was  removed  to  the  elevated  ground 
west  from  the  harbour,  where  a  small  fragment  of  its  ruins  may  still 
be  traced.  Fordun  states,  that  it  was  erected  by  Constantine  II, 
soon  after  the  middle  of  the  ninth  century ;  but  others  contend  that 
it  was  founded  by  the  Macduffs,  Earls  of  Fife.  It  was  suppressed 
at  the  Reformation,  and  its  revenues  were  appropriated  to  various 
purposes. 

At  the  general  assumption  of  the  rents  of  the  church  benefices 
in  Scotland  in  1561,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  fund  for  the 
support  of  the  ministry  and  of  the  Queen's  household,  the  following 
statement  of  the  benefices  of  St  Andrews  was  drawn  up  and  pre- 
sented to  the  proper  functionaries;  the  modern  value  is  annexed: 

1.  The  rental  of  the  Archbishoprick. 

Wheat,  30  chalders  9  bolls,   =  1967  Imperial  bushels. 
Bear,    41     do     10   do      =  3909  do 
Oats,    67     do  do     =  6292  do 

Money,  L.2904, 7s.  2d.  Scots,  =  L.242,  Os.  7d.  Sterling 

2.  The  rental  of  the  Priory. 

Wheat,  38  chalders  1  boll,     =   4900  Imperial  bushels. 
Bear,  132     do      7  do      =  12437  do 
Oats,  151     do     10  do      =  14239  do 
Beans,    fi     do      7   do      =     221  do 
Meal,  114     do      3  do      =  2283  cwt.  84  lbs. 
Money,  L,2237, 18s.  Id.  Scots  =  L.  186,  10s.  Sterling. 

3.  The  rental  of  the  Provostry  of  Kirkheuch. 

Bear,      3  chalders  9  bolls,    =  334  Imperial  bushels. 
Oats,       1     do      6    do      =  129  do 
Meal,     9     do     11    do     =  193  cwt.  84  lbs. 
Money, L.  176, 14s.  8d.  Scots,  =  L.14,  I4s.  6d.  Sterling. 

4.  The  Archdeanery  of  St  Andrews,  let  in  tack  for  L.  600. 

5.  Of  the  vicarage  of  St  Andrews  no  rental  of  that  date  has 
been  discovered;  but  in  the  year  1656,  the  minister  of  the  recent- 
ly erected  parish  of  Cameron,  to  whom  the  vicarage  of  St  Andrews 
had  been  assigned  by  act  of  Parliament  as  a  stipend,  raised  an  ac- 
tion in  the  Commissary  Court  against  the  whole  of  the  landed  pro- 
prietors of  the  original  parish  of  St  Andrews,  for  the  purpose  of 
ascertaining  the  amount  of  the  vicarage  teind.  He  obtained  in 
consequence  a  sentence  in  his  favour,  and  the  followinff  statement 
exhibits  the  amount  of  the  several  articles  comprehended  in  the 
decree,  with  the  value  affixed  to  each  in  Scottish  money,  viz. 

Scotch  money.  Total  amount. 

498  lambs,        .       each  L.l  10  0  L.747    0  0 

131  stones  of  wool,       .       8  0  0  1048    0  0 

36  calves,        .          .2  13  4  149    6  8 

90  stones  of  cheese,            2  13  4  240    0  0 

86  stones  of  butter,            5  6  8  458  13  4 

48ifoid3,          .          .     6  13  4  323    6  8 


470 


FIFESHIRE. 


Scotch  money.      Total  amounl. 

264  Gryccs,         .  L.O  13   4  L.176   0  0 

321  Gaislings,  .       0  13    4         214   0  0 

894  stones  of  lint,        •        ^    ^    ^  o'^^    n  n 

82|  stones  of  hemp,       .3    0    0  '2il  10  0 

L.4061    6  8 

The  vicarage  teind  was  afterwards  subjected  to  a  process  of  va- 
luation, and  instead  of  the  large  sum  above-specified,  amounting 
to  L.337,  12s.  2d.  Sterhng,  it  was  fixed  at  L.  20,  14s.  5d.  Ster- 
ling, only,  which  the  minister  of  Cameron  continues  to  receive. 

The  Trinitij  or  Parochial  Church  of  the  city  was  originally  erect- 
ted  by  Bishop  Turgot,  about  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century. 
Prior  to  the  Reformation,  it  had  a  large  establishment  of  chaplains 
and  chorists,  who  officiated  in  the  several  chapels  which  were  within 
its  precincts.    From  a  charter  dated  1475,  it  appears  that  they 
then  amounted  to  thirty  of  the  former  denomination  and  fifteen  of 
the  latter.    They  were  supported,  partly  at  least,  by  small  annual 
payments  due  to  them  from  the  different  tenements  within  the  city. 
At  the  Reformation  they  were  suppressed,  and  their  revenues  were 
transferred  by  a  gift  from  Queen  Mary  to  the  common  funds  of 
the  city.    This  church  became  the  Archbishop's  cathedral  after 
the  Reformation,  the  large  cathedral  being  then  demolished.  It 
was  thoroughly  repaired  in  1798,  the  expense  being  defrayed  by 
the  city,  the  heritors  of  the  parish,  and  the  Crown,  in  place  of  the 
Archbishop.  It  now  consists  of  a  nave  136  feet  long  by  57  broad, 
and  an  aisle  441  feet  by  28^  within  the  walls.    It  is  seated  so  as 
to  accommodate  2200  hearers.    In  the  aisle,  is  a  fine  monument, 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Archbishop  Sharp,  a  few  years  after  his 
murder.    The  ancient  tower  and  spire  of  the  church  still  remain, 
but  a  fine  old  bell,  which  had  hung  in  it  for  centuries,  and  whose 
inscription  bore  that  it  had  been  cast  by  order  of  David  Lear- 
mounth,  Provost  of  the  city,  in  honour  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  in  the 
year  1108,  was  inconsiderately  removed,  to  make  way  for  others  of 
a  more  modern  date. 

Some  centuries  ago,  the  city  was  fortified;  and  more  than  once 
the  citizens  were  subjected  to  the  hardships  and  privations  of  a 
siege.  Scarcely  a  vestige,  however,  of  the  city  walls  now  remain, 
the  port  or  gate  excepted  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  South 
Street,  which  has  a  handsome  appearance,  and  is  kept  in  a  good 
state  of  repair.  The  city  arms,  indeed,  above  the  centre  of  the 
arch,  are  nearly  effaced,  in  consequence  of  the  wasting  of  the  stone 
by  the  weather,  and  would  require  to  be  renewed. 

The  Toxon-House  is  very  inconveniently  situated  in  the  centre 


ST  ANDREWS. 


471 


of  the  Market  Street,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  spot  where  the  cross  for- 
merly stood.  A  few  years  ago,  having  fallen  into  disrepair,  a  con- 
venient piece  of  ground  was  purchased  for  the  purpose  of  a  new 
erection ;  but  as  the  city  funds  were  deemed  to  be  inadequate  for 
the  undertaking,  the  eld  fabric  was  repaired  and  enlarged,  and  it 
is  now  sufficiently  commodious  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  is  re- 
quired. 

Modern  Buildings. — Handsome  Chapels,  for  the  use  of  the  Epis- 
copalians, and  for  those  who  are  connected  with  the  United  Asso- 
ciate Synod,  have  been  erected  within  these  few  years.  The  flour 
mills  belonging  to  the  Incorporation  of  Bakers  have  been  lately  re- 
built at  considerable  expense.  A  sj)inning-mill  has  been  in  opera- 
tion since  1823,  its  machinery  being  moved  by  steam.  Thirty  years 
ago,  there  was  a  manufactory  of  sail-cloth  of  a  superior  quality, 
but  it  was  afterwards  abandoned,  and  has  not  been  revived. 

III. — Population. 

No  enumeration  of  the  population  of  the  parish  has  been  discovered  of  an  older  date 
than  that  of  Dr  Webster  in  1755,  when  the  amount  was  4690 
in  1793,  it  amounted  to  3950 
1801,  .  .  4203 

1811,     .  .  4311 

1821,  .  •  4899 

1831,    .  3621 

Of  the  last  of  these  dates,  2520  were  males,  and  3101  females. 
The  feuing  of  a  considerable  portion  of  ground  at  the  village  of 
Strathkinness,  for  the  purposes  of  erecting  houses,  has  contributed 
materially  to  the  increase  of  population  in  the  country  district  of 
the  parish.  The  city  has  also  considerably  enlarged  its  bounda- 
ries, by  modern  erections  at  its  south-east  and  north-west  extremi- 
ties, and  by  the  filling  up  of  a  number  of  blanks  in  the  streets  and 
lanes.  The  number  of  families  who  resort  to  St  Andrews  for  the 
purpose  of  education,  or  as  a  place  where  they  may  enjoy  agree- 
able society  and  the  necessaries  of  life  at  a  moderate  expense,  has 
also  materially  increased. 

The  population  in  the  city  in  1831  was        ...  3757 
villages,        -       -  -  -  819 

■  country,   -  -  .       .  1033 

1  he  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years,        .  88^ 
deaths,         -       -  -       .  87f 

marriages,         -  .       -       .  47^ 

In  1836,  there  were  individuals  in  the  parish,       -       -  5723 
Of  these  there  were  under  seven  years  of  age,        -       -  927 
twelve  years  of  age,  -  -  1558 

Illegitimate  births  in  the  course  of  the  last  three  years,  28. 
No  individual  of  noble  rank  resides  within  the  parish.  There 
are  about  40  fomilies  resident  in  the  city,  whose  income  arises  from 
their  private  resources,  and  not  from  "any  official  or  professional 


472  FIFESHIRE. 

employment ;  and  in  the  country  there  are  8  families  of  indepen- 
dent fortune.  The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly 
value  of  L.  50  and  upwards  is  from  35  to  40. 

The  number  of  families  in  the  parish  is  -  -  129G 

inliabited  houses,  -  -  -  "y-J 

uninhabited  or  building,  do.  -  -  14 

There  seems  to  be  no  peculiarity  in  the  strength,  size,  complex- 
ion, or  other  personal  qualities  of  the  inhabitants,  to  distinguish 
them  from  their  neighbours.  The  number  of  insane  and  fatuous 
persons  is  13,  of  bUnd  5,  of  deaf  and  dumb  4, 

The  language  which  is  generally  employed  by  the  labouring 
classes,  is  the  Fifan  dialect.  Among  the  higher  classes,  the  English 
language  is  spoken.    There  is  no  popular  custom  that  can  be  said 
to  be  peculiar  to  the  district;  but  there  is  a  gaihe  of  skill,  which 
has  for  centuries  formed  a  favourite  amusement  at  St  Andrews, 
viz.  the  game  of  golf.    For  the  prosecution  of  this  amusement,  a 
considerable  range  of  ground  is  requisite,  with  a  short  herbage. 
Both  these  requisites,  the  links  or  downs  to  the  north-west  of  the 
city  supplv.    And  the  inequalities  of  surface  which  the  course 
presents,  instead  of  being  regarded  as  disadvantageous,  tends  mate- 
rially to  increase  the  interest  of  the  game,  and  to  promote  the  de- 
velopement  of  the  skill  of  the  several  competitors.    The  course 
for  this  game  is  divided  into  a  number  of  stages  from  200  to  500 
yards  distant  from  each  other.   At  the  termination  of  each,  a  hole, 
about  five  inches  in  diameter  and  several  inches  deep,  is  formed, 
and  the  object  of  the  competitors  is  to  drive  the  ball  they  employ 
from  station  to  station,  landirig  it  ultimately  in  the  holes,  with  the 
fewest  number  of  strokes.    For  this  purpose,  clubs  of  a  variety  ot 
shapes  are  employed,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  position  m 
which  the  ball  may  be  found  after  the  several  strokes.  Nearly 
eighty  years  ago,  a  number  of  gentlemen  in  St  Andrews  and  its 
vicinity  formed  themselves  into  an  association  for  the  purpose  of 
promoting  the  cultivation  of  this  very  interesting  and  healthy 
amusement.    This  club  has  now  a  muster  roll  of  from  300  to  400 
members.    King  William  IV.,  who,  before  his  accession  to  the 
Crown,  was  Duke  of  St  Andrews,  has  signified  his  acceptance  of 
the  office  of  patron  of  the  club,  and  has  lately  sent  a  spletidid  gold 
medal,  to  be  competed  for  annually,  and  to  be  held  for  the  year 
by  the  winner. 

The  majority  of  the  people  appear,  on  the  whole,  to  enjoy  in  a 
reasonable  degree  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  society.  But 
there  are  many  individuals  and  families  who  have  both  the  ability 
and  the  inclination  to  exert  themselves,  but  who,  in  consequence 


ST  ANDREWS. 


473 


of  existing  circumstances,  cannot  obtain  an  adequate  remuneration 
for  their  labour.  Many  females  who  formerly  had  their  depend- 
ence on  the  produce  of  the  spinning-wheel,  have,  in  consequence 
of  the  very  extensive  introduction  of  spinning  machinery,  and  the 
low  rate  of  wages  for  spinning,  been  thrown  in  a  great  measure 
idle.  The  very  reduced  remuneration,  also,  which,  for  a  number 
of  years,  the  manufacturers  received  for  the  produce  of  their  la- 
bours, has  reduced  many  of  them  who  have  families  to  a  state 
bordering  upon  destitution.  In  such  circumstances,  it  can  scarce- 
ly be  regarded  as  matter  of  surprise,  that  many  are  far  from  be- 
ing content  with  their  situation,  and  that  they  are  anxious  for 
changes  by  which  their  condition  may  be  improved. 

The  bulk  of  the  parishioners  are  characterized  by  their  regard 
for  the  interests  of  morality,  and  by  their  attachment  to  the  cause 
of  religion.  And  if  there  are  individuals  of  an  opposite  character, 
their  numbei"  does  not  seem  to  exceed  the  average  of  individuals 
of  a  corresponding  description  in  other  districts  of  the  country. 

Poaching  in  game  is  practised  to  a  limited  extent.  Smuggling 
was  formerly  carried  on  on  an  extensive  scale  ;  but  for  manj  years 
past,  the  severity  of  the  laws  against  this  species  of  traffic,  and  the 
strictness  of  the  precautions  which  are  employed  to  guard  against 
its  prevalence,  have  almost  completely  put  an  end  to  the  demora- 
lizing practice.  Pawnbroking  is  unknown  in  this  district  of  the 
country. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The  number  of  standard  imperial  acres  in  the 
parish,  which  are  either  cultivated  or  are  occasionally  in  tillage,  is 
about  9844.  The  number  of  acres  which  have  never  been  cultivated, 
and  which  are  waste,  or  in  pasture,  is  about  544,  The  number 
of  acres,  that,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  might  be 
added  to  the  cultivated  land,  is  very  considerable, — the  high  prices 
which  were  obtained  for  grain  from  1804  to  1814,  having  induced 
the  cultivator  to  bring  into  tillage  almost  every  acre  that  was  fit 
for  the  plough.  The  lands  that  were  at  one  period  in  a  state  of 
commonty,  were  all  divided,  many  years  ago,  among  the  conter- 
minous proprietors,  according  to  the  extent  of  their  several  claims. 
The  number  of  acres  under  wood,  all  of  which  have  been  planted, 
is  345.  The  plantations  seem  in  general  to  be  under  judicious 
management. 

Rent.—T\ie  average  rent  of  arable  land  in  the  parish  is  L.  1, 
17s.  6d.  per  imperial  acre.  No  grazing  of  sheep  or  cattle  per 
capita  prevails  in  this  district. 


474 


FIFESIIIRE, 


Rate  of  Wages. — Farm-labourers  when  hired  by  the  year  re- 
ceive from  L.  10  to  L.  12  Sterling,  with  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  each 
140  imperial  pounds  in  weight,  and  Is.  weekly  for  milk.  The 
foreman,  as  he  is  denominated,  who  has  a  species  of  authority  over 
the  other  farm-servants,  and  who  is  in  some  measure  responsible 
for  the  proper  execution  of  the  farming  operations,  receives  from 
L.  2  to  L.  10  more  than  the  others.  Female  servants  hired  by 
the  year  receive  from  L.  5  to  L.  7.  Labourers  engaged  by  the 
day,  receive  in  summer  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  6d.,  and  in  winter,  from 
Is.  2d.  to  Is.  4d.  daily,  the  labourers  furnishing  their  own  victuals. 
Married  farm-servants  are,  in  many  instances,  allowed  the  use  of  a 
cow,  and  when  this  is  the  case,  they  receive  only  about  L.  7  of 
wages.  They  have  in  addition  to  their  meal,  however,  an  allow- 
ance of  ground  on  the  farm,  sufficient  for  sowing  a  peck  of  lintseed, 
and  for  planting  from  1  cwt.  to  2  cwt.  of  potatoes.  The  black- 
smith in  general  charges  the  farmer  for  each  article  furnished 
by  him,  but  a  practice  has  been  lately  introduced,  of  allowing 
him  at  the  rate  of  L.  2  Sterling  annually,  for  each  pair  of  horses 
employed  on  the  farm.  For  this  allowance,  he  furnishes  shoes 
for  the  horses,  and  keeps  the  various  agricultural  implements  in 
a  proper  state  of  repair. 

Live-Stoch. — In  former  times,  a  breed  of  cattle  was  very  gene- 
rally reared  in  the  county,  denominated  the  Fife  breed.  This  is 
still  to  be  found  in  the  district,  and  some  of  the  agriculturists  are 
of  opinion,  that  it  is  better  adapted  to  the  soil  and  cHmate  than 
any  other  variety  of  the  species.  A  number  of  other  varieties, 
however,  have  been  introduced,  so  that  the  breed  of  cattle  now 
to  be  found  in  the  district  is  of  a  mongrel  description.  But  few 
sheep  were  for  many  years  reared  or  pastured  in  the  parish ;  of 
late,  they  have  become  more  abundant,  and  are  either  of  the  High- 
land or  Cheviot  breeds.  The  character  of  the  husbandry  of  the 
district  is  good,  and  does  not  appear  to  be  susceptible  of  many  al- 
terations, that  would  prove  useful  and  profitable. 

About  55  acres  of  ground  contiguous  to  the  estuary  of  the 
Eden,  which  formed  a  part  of  that  estuary,  or  were  apt  to  be  over- 
flowed at  stream  tides,  have  at  two  different  periods  been  secured 
by  expensive  embankments,  and  the  acquisitions  are  now  in  a 
state  of  productive  tillage.  Apian  was,  at  one  period,  under  con- 
sideration, of  securing  a  much  larger  extent  of  the  estuary,  but 
the  proprietors  interested  in  the  undertaking  were  doubtful  whether 
the  new  acquisition  would  have  remunerated  them  for  the  expense 

4 


ST  ANDREWS. 


475 


that  would  have  been  incurred,  and  the  scheme  was  in  consequence 
abandoned.  The  agriculturists  in  the  district  seem  to  be  fully 
aware  of  the  advantages  attendant  on  draining,  and  considerable 
sums  have  been  expended  by  them  for  securing  its  object,  wherever 
it  was  required.  Irrigation  has  never  been  practised  in  the  dis- 
trict. 

Leases,  Sfc. — Nineteen  years  is  the  usual  term  of  endurance  of 
leases.  This  is  regarded  as  a  proper  period  both  for  the  landlord 
and  tenant.  The  lands,  however,  which  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
city,  and  which  are  let  in  small  allotments  chiefly  to  the  citizens, 
have  generally  a  shorter  term  of  lease,  varying  from  nine  to  thirteen 
years.  The  farm-buildings  in  general  correspond  with  the  size 
of  the  farms,  and  are  kept  in  a  proper  state  of  repair.  Almost 
the  whole  of  the  parish  is  better  adapted  for  tillage  than  for  pas- 
ture, and  a  large  proportion  of  it  is  in  consequence  unenclosed. 
And  even  where  fences  have  been  erected,  they  are  in  many 
cases  of  a  slight  and  a  defective  quality.  No  remarkable  improve- 
ments in  agriculture  have  lately  been  introduced  into  the  district, 
either  by  the  agriculturists  at  large,  or  by  any  particular  individu- 
al, and  no  obstacles  to  improvement  seem  at  present  to  exist. 

Quarries  mid  Mines. — Quarries  of  excellent  free  or  sandstone, 
well  adapted  for  building  operations,  are  wrought  at  Nydie  Hill, 
and  at  Strathkinness,  near  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish. 
The  stones  of  most  of  the  buildings  in  St  Andrews  and  its  vici- 
nity have  been  supplied  from  this  source ;  and  the  materials 
which  they  furnish  are  held  in  so  high  estimation,  that  they  are 
conveyed  to  considerable  distances,  sometimes  even  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  county.  From  Nydie  Hill  quarry,  blocks  of  a  very 
large  size  may  be  readily  obtained.  Quarries  of  whinstone  have 
also  been  opened  in  different  places,  chiefly  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  materials  for  the  public  roads,  and  the  streets  of  the 
city.  No  mines  are  at  present  wrought,  but  it  is  understood  that 
coal,  though  of  an  inferior  quality,  might  be  procured  at  Denhead, 
near  the  south-west  extremity  of  the  parish. 

Fisheries. — A  salmon-fishery  has  long  been  established  in  the 
Eden,  as  far  as  the  tide  extends,  but  the  produce  is  inconsiderable 
both  in  extent  and  value.  The  town-council  of  the  city  have,  for 
a  number  of  years,  disposed  of  their  right  to  take  salmon  on  the 
east  and  west  sands,  and  stake-nets  have  in  consequence  been 
erected ;  but  their  success  has  failed  to  realize  the  expectations  of 
the  tacksmen,  and  their  erections  are  liable  to  be  demolished  by 


476 


FIFKSHIRE. 


the  heavy  seas,  brought  into  the  bay,  by  an  easterly  or  north-east- 
erly gale.     The  rent  yielded  is  about  L.  7  Sterling.    A  number 
of  families  in  the  city  gain  their  livelihood  from  the  open  sea  fish- 
ery.   They  have  several  fishing  boats,  by  which  they  provide  for 
the  home  market  during  ten  months  of  the  year ;  and  during  the 
other  two  months,  the  bulk  of  them  are  usually  employed  at  the 
herring  fishery  on  the  coast  of  Caithness.    The  produce  of  their 
labour^  while  they  are  at  home,  is  not  entirely  consumed  within 
the  city,  but  a  part  of  it  is  regularly  transmitted  to  Cupar,  the 
county  town,  and  a  part  of  it  is  appropriated  to  the  supply  of  the 
vicinity.    The  principal  varieties  of  fish  which  they  produce  in 
the  market,  are  the  haddock,  cod,  ling,  skate,  halibut,  and  flound- 
er.   When  the  wind  blows  fresh  from  the  east  or  north  -east,  there 
is  in  general  so  heavy  a  surf  along  the  coast,  that  the  boats  cannot 
venture  beyond  the  limits  of  the  harbour.    Hence  the  citizens  are 
frequently,  for  many  days  together,  without  any  supplies  from 
their  own  fishermen,  and  have  then  to  rely  on  supplies  from  the 
fishing  stations  on  the  south  coast  of  the  county.    Durmg  the 
stormy  season,  the  fishing  apparatus  which  is  left  m  the  sea,  is  ex- 
posed to  injury,  nay  even,  in  many  cases,  to  utter  destruction,  and 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather  are  then  so  sudden  that  the  fisher- 
men themselves  are  often  unexpectedly  exposed  to  the  greatest 

danger.  j        •  j 

Produce.— average  amount  and  value  of  raw  produce  raised 


yearly  in  the  parish  is  nearly  as  follows 

28,000  bolls  of  grain  of  all  kinds, 
78,000  stones  of  hay  at  7d.  per  stone,  -  g^^^    ^  ^ 

Potatoes,  turnip,  &c.              -  •           "                _         I'sOO  0  0 

Flax,  &c.             -                  -  "  _                   2,200  0  0 

Land  in  pasture,                     -  gQQ  q  q 

Gardens  and  orchards,  -                     "                    |qq  q  q 

Thinning  and  felling  of  timber,  -                     "              88  0  0 

Fisheries,  L.  20,  quarries,  L.  68,  -      ^               100  0  0 

Miscellaneous  produce,  -  "  

Total  yearly  value,  L.  46,625    0  0 

Manvfactnres.-^o\^vge  manufacturing  establishment  exists  in 
the  parish.  The  labour  of  the  tradesmen  is  chiefly  required  for 
articles  of  home  consumption.  The  weaving  of  linen  is  carried  on 
to  a  considerable  extent,  indeed,  in  detached  premises ;  but  his  is 
dependent  not  on  the  resources  of  manufacturers  resident  in  the  lo- 
calitY,  but  on  the  capital  of  the  Kirkland  establishment  near  Le- 
ven  or  on  the  commercial  enterprise  of  Dundee.  The  manufac- 
ture'of  golf  balls  has  long  been  carried  on  here,  to  a  considerable 
extent     Above  10,000  are  made  annually.    A  good  workman  can 


ST  ANDREWS. 


477 


make  from  50  to  60  a-week.  Nearly  one-half  of  the  product  is  re- 
quired for  the  use  of  the  cultivators  of  the  amusement  in  St  An- 
drews. A  market  for  the  remainder  is  found  in  other  places. 
Some  have  been  sent  as  far  as  Calcutta  and  Madras.  When  trade 
is  flourishing,  the  several  branches  afford  a  fair  remuneration  to 
such  as  are  employed  in  them ;  but  there  have  been  times  of  de- 
pression, when  even  with  the  strictest  economy,  the  craftsmen 
could  scarcely  secure,  from  the  fruits  of  their  industry,  the  neces- 
saries of  life  for  themselves  and  their  families ;  and  when  it  was 
necessary  for  the  more  favoured  classes  to  come  forward  to  their 
assistance. 

Navigation. — There  is  but  one  sea  port  in  the  parish,  viz.  that 
of  St  Andrews.  The  number  of  vessels  at  present  connected  with 
the  port  is  fourteen.  They  are  all  of  a  small  size,  as  the  harbour 
does  not  admit  vessels  of  a  large  burden.  Their  whole  amount  of 
tonnage  does  not  exceed  680  tons  register  of  old  measure.  The 
only  foreign  vessels  which  visit  the  harbour  are  from  Norway  or 
the  Baltic,  freighted  with  timber.  But  these,  when  they  exceed 
100  tons  in  burden,  or  draw  more  than  14  feet  of  water,  are 
under  the  necessity  of  discharging  a  part  of  their  cargo  before  they 
can  attempt  to  enter  the  harbour;  and  even  this  can  be  done  with 
safety,  only  at  stream-tides.  The  estuary  of  the  Eden,  when  the 
tide  is  nearly  full,  is  navigable  to  about  two  miles  from  its  entrance. 
And  an  extensive  distillery  being  situated  on  its  margin  at  this  dis- 
tance from  the  sea,  vessels  may  frequently  be  seen  navigating  the 
estuary,  loaded  with  coals  and  grain  for  its  use,  and  conveving  its 
produce  to  a  distant  market. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

City. — According  to  Martine,  Robert,  Bishop  of  St  Andrews,  ob- 
tained for  the  city  the  liberties  of  a  burgh  royal,T)y  consent  of  David 
I.  about  the  year  1140.  Malcolm  IV.,  the  grandson  and  successor 
of  David,  confirmed  this  erection,  and  the  original  charter  granted 
by  this  monarch  is  still  preserved  in  the  city  charter  chest.  It  is 
in  Latin,  written  in  a  neat  small  hand,  on  a  slip  of  parchment,  some- 
what smaller  in  dimensions  than  a  common  playing  card.  It  is  ex- 
pressed so  briefly,  that  it  consists  only  of  fifty-two  words,  exclusive 
of  the  names  and  designations  of  five  witnesses.  A  fac-simile  of 
this  charter  is  here  presented. 

Prior  to  the  Reformation,  the  city  must  have  been  much  more 
important  and  populous,  than  it  afterwards  became.  But  no  docu- 
ment has  been  discovered,  by  which  the  amount  of  its  inhabitants 
at  that  period  can  be  ascertained. 


478 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  city  functionaries  consist  of  a  provost,  four  bailies,  a  dean 
of  guild,  and  a  treasurer ;  and  the  town-council  consists  of  these 
office-bearers,  and  twenty-two  councillors.  Before  the  passing  of  the 
late  Burgh  Reform  Bill,  the  dean  of  guild  ranked  next  to  the  pro- 
vost, and  presided  at  the  meetings  of  the  council  in  his  absence ; 
but  since  that  period,  the  bailies  have  acquired  the  precedency. 
The  latter  hold  courts  from  time  to  time,  in  which  matters  of  liti- 
gation with  citizens  are  determined,  and  in  which  also  delinquen- 
cies are  investigated,  and  a  judgment  on  them  pronounced.  The 
council  have  under  their  management  the  revenues  of  the  city, 
which  amount  to  above  L.  1300  Sterling  a-year,  but  there  is  a  debt 
affecting  them,  which  amounts  to  nearly  L.  5000.    In  addition  to 
this  they  have  since  1831,  in  consequence  of  a  clause  of  Dr  Bell's 
trust-deed,  been  invested  with  the  disbursement  of  the  interest  of 
L.  9798,  13s.  4d.  of  3  per  cent,  government  annuities,  destined 
for  the  purpose  of  promoting  the  moral  and  religious  improvement 
of  the  community,  and  for  such  other  useful  and  permanent  works 
connected  with  the  city,  as  might  be  judged  most  eligible  ;  under 
the  superintendence,  however,  and  with  the  approbation  of  the 
Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county  of  Fife,  and  the  Trustees  of  the  Ma- 
dras College. 

Markets,  ^c— St  Andrews  is  the  only  market-town  in  the  parish. 
It  has  three  fairs  annually,  besides  a  weekly  market  for  the  sale  of 
grain,  which  is  held  on  Monday,  and  a  market  twice  a-week,  viz. 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  for  butter,  poultry,  eggs,  vegetables, 
&c.  There  is  a  post-office  in  the  city,  which  has  a  daily  commu- 
nication with  Dundee  and  Edinburgh.  The  length  of  the  turn- 
pike roads  in  the  parish  is  about  twenty  miles,  and  of  the  roads  sup- 
ported by  the  statute  labour,  six  to  eight  miles.  The  bridges  are 
kept  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  The  only  one  deserving  of  particu- 
lar notice  is  the  Guard  or  Gair  Bridge,  which  affords  a  passage 
across  the  Eden,  at  the  point  where  the  roads  from  Dundee  and 
Cupar  to  St  Andrews  meet.  It  was  constructed  four  centuries  ago, 
by  Bishop  Wardlaw,  the  founder  of  the  University.  It  consists  of 
six  arches,  and  the  only  inconvenience  attending  it  is  its  narrow- 
ness, which  is  such  as  not  to  admit  of  two  carriages  passing  each 
other.    There  are  no  canals  nor  railroads  in  the  parish. 

Harbour. — The  harbour  is  merely  what  is  denominated  a  tide- 
harbour  ;  it  is  dry  at  low  water,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  stream, 
which  runs  through  it.  There  is  in  general  a  sand  bar  at  its 
mouth,  which  prevents  large  vessels  from  finding  admittance.  To 
remedy  as  far  as  possible  this  inconvenience,  a  flood-gate  has  been 


ST  ANDREWS. 


479 


constructed  near  the  centre  of  the  harbour,  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
tainino-  the  water  in  the  upper  division,  till  the  tide  has  retired, 
when  it  is  opened,  and  the  water  escapes  in  a  torrent,  carrying 
along  with  it  a  portion  of  the  sand  which  may  have  accumulated  at 
the  bar.  But  even  with  this  auxiliary  the  harbour  is  still  defective, 
and  it  does  not  appear  to  be  susceptible  of  any  material  additional 
improvement,  unless  at  an  expense  far  beyond  what  the  funds  of  the 
city  can  afford. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  in  a  central  situation, 
being  nearly  at  an  equal  distance  between  the  two  extremities  of 
the  parish.  But  there  is  a  population  of  nearly  1000  individuals 
in  the  western  division,  who  are  situated  between  two  and  a-half  and 
five  miles  from  the  parish  church,  and  for  whose  accommodation, 
it  would  be  highly  desirable  to  have  a  church  and  a  minister.* 
And  in  the  eastern  division,  there  is  a  population  of  nearly  200, 
most  of  whom  are  four  miles  from  the  parish  church,  while  they 
are  not  more  than  the  half  of  that  distance  from  the  church  of 
Kingsbarns. 

The pai'ish  church,  which  was  originally  erected  about  the  com- 
mencement of  the  twelfth  century,  obtained  a  thorough  repair  in 
1798,  and  is  at  present  in  a  good  condition.  It  is  seated  for  about 
2200.  There  are,  however,  no  free  sittings,  the  whole  having 
been  divided  by  the  Sheriff  of  the  county,  under  the  sanction  of 
the  Court  of  Session,  between  the  city  and  the  landed  proprietors. 
A  considerable  proportion  of  the  city's  allotment  was  disposed  of 
to  the  several  corporate  bodies  within  its  limits,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  members  of  these  corporations  and  their  families. 
And  the  remainder  was  let  every  third  year,  by  the  city  function- 
aries, to  such  of  the  inhabitants  as  required  church  accommoda- 
tion, and  the  revenue  thus  obtained  was  added  to.  the  city  funds. 
Several  of  the  corporate  trades  have  lately  sold  their  allotments 
of  the  seating,  which  now  belong  to  private  individuals.  The  size 
and  form  of  the  church  render  it  very  unfavourable  both  for  the 
speaker  and  for  many  of  the  hearers.  It  has  been  ascertained 
that  there  are  nearly  500  sittings  so  situate,  that  the  occupants 
cannot  distinctly  hear  what  is  uttered  in  the  pulpit  by  any  ordinary 
speaker,  and  that  in  many  of  them  they  cannot  even  see  the  offi- 
ciatmg  mmister.  Hence,  these  pews  are  in  general  but  thinly  oc- 
cupied, and  many  of  them  stand  almost  perpetually  empty.  A 

A  handsome  preaching  station,  which  serves  also  for  a  school-house,  has  lately- 
been  erected  in  the  village  of  Strathkinness,  which  is  central  for  this  district  of  the 
parish. 


480 


FIFESHIRR. 


plan  has  been  suggested  of  secluding  a  number  of  them  from  the 
church  by  partitions,  which  would  greatly  improve  it,  with  but  lit- 
tle detriment  to  any  individual.  And  it  has  been  also  suggested, 
that  further  curtailments  should  bcv  made  upon  the  church,  and 
that,  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  population,  an  additional  church 
should  be  erected  within  the  city,  which  might  either  be  supplied 
by  the  ministers  alternately,  or  by  one  of  them  officiating  regularly 
to  the  new  congregation.  It  seems  to  be  not  improbable,  that 
this  suggestion  may  ere  long  be  realized,  as  urgent  applications  are 
frequently  made  for  church  accommodation,  by  persons  who  are 
anxious  to  obtain  it,  but  who  are  in  general  under  the  necessity 
of  waiting  for  a  considerable  period,  before  they  can  secure  it  in 
an  eligible  situation.  And  numbers,  who  have  been  unable  to 
obtain  such  accommodation,  have  been  induced  to  apply  ^pr  it, 
either  in  the  church  of  St  Leonards  or  in  the  dissenting  chapels, 
where  it  could  be  obtained. 

No  manse  has  been  erected  for  the  use  of  either  of  the  minis- 
ters. It  seems  to  be  understood,  however,  that  the  first  minister 
would  be  found  entitled  to  a  manse  and  offices,  were  he  to  apply 
for  them  in  a  regular  form.  He  already  possesses  a  glebe,  con- 
sisting of  four  acres,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  which  is 
let  to  a  tenant  for  a  rent  of  L.  23  a  year  ;  and  connected  with  it  he 
has  a  small  garden.  The  stipend  of  the  first  minister  amounts  to 
22  chalders  from  the  teinds  of  the  parish,  and  he  enjoys,  besides, 
the  half  of  the  emoluments  of  the  archdeaconry,  which  add  to  it 
about  6^  chalders.  He  has  also  an  allowance  of  L.  20  Sterling 
for  communion  elements.  The  second  charge  was  established  in 
1589.  The  incumbent  has  no  manse  nor  glebe.  His  stipend 
consisted,  until  within  these  few  years,  of  L.  72,  4s.  5^d.  from  the 
city  funds,  and  the  half  of  the  archdeaconry,  which  amounts  to 
about  107  bolls  of  grain,  and  L.  3  Sterling.  He  is  also  entitled 
to  the  teind  of  the  fish  caught  by  the  fishermen  within  the  city. 
But  those  who  follow  this  profession  are  in  general  so  much  op- 
pressed with  poverty,  that  for  the  last  twenty-years  he  has  not 
exacted  from  them  one  farthing.  It  was  decided  by  the  commis- 
sioners of  teinds,  after  an  expensive  litigation,  that  he  has  no  claim 
on  the  teinds  of  the  parish,  so  that  when  the  late  parliamentary 
grant  (5th  Geo.  IV.  ch.  72.)  was  made  in  favours  of  the  small 
livings  in  Scotland,  he  found  it  advisable  to  make  the  necessary 
application  for  the  benefit  of  that  endowment,  and  the  income  of 
the  office  had  an  addition  made  to  it  of  L.  33,  10s.  5d.,  to  raise  it 
to  the  minimum  rate,  including  an  allowance  for  a  manse  and 


ST  ANDREWS. 


481 


glebe ;  and  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  were  assigned  to  him  annually  for  com- 
munion elements. 

No  chapel  of  ease  nor  Government  church  exists  at  present  in 
the  parish,  and  no  missionary  nor  catechist  was  employed  within  its 
precincts  until  1834,  when  an  experienced  licentiate  of  the  Church 
of  Scotland  was  engaged  to  act  as  a  preacher,  to  conduct  public 
worship  at  one  or  other  of  the  villages  of  Strathkinness,  Boarhills, 
or  Kincaple,  on  the  Sundays,  and  also  to  act  as  a  catechist,  in  the 
city  and  villages,  both  on  Sundays  and  ordinary  week  days.  His 
salary  of  L-  52,  12s.  a-year,  was  afforded  him  the  first  year  by  the 
first  minister  ;  and  since  that  period,  the  latter  has  contributed  the 
half  only  of  the  salary,  and  certain  of  the  heritors  and  parishioners 
the  remainder. 

There  are  four  Dissenting  chapels  in  the  parish,  three  of  which 
are  in  the  city,  and  one  at  the  village  of  Strathkinness,  one  of  the 
former  being  Episcopalian.    The  ministers  of  these  chapels  de- 
rive their  incomes  from  the  seat  rents,  and  from  the  collections 
which  are  made  at  their  doors,  when  the  several  congregations  as- 
semble for  public  worship.    It  is  understood  that  they  vary  in 
amount  from  L.  70  to  L.  100  Sterling  a  year.  Between  an  eighth 
and  a  ninth  part  of  the  population  of  the  parish  are  dissenters  from 
the  Established  Church  of  Scotland,  and  have  connected  them- 
selves with  these  chapels.    The  remaining  part  of  the  population, 
the  few  excepted  who  have  no  religious  profession,  adhere  to  the 
Established  Church.     One  family  of  Roman  Cathohcs  only  re- 
sides in  the  parish ;  the  father  is  in  the  preventive  service,  and  was 
stationed  here  only  about  a  year  and  a  half  ago.    There  are  two 
other  individuals  of  that  persuasion  in  the  parish,  and  the  whole 
are  natives  of  Ireland.    Divine  service,  both  in  the  parish  church 
and  in  the  chapels,  is  generally  well  attended.  The  average  num- 
ber of  communicants  at  the  dispensation  of  the  sacrament  of  the 
Lord's  Supper  in  the  parish  church  for  the  last  ten  or  twelve  years 
IS  about  2030.    But  from  an  investigation  which  took  place  in 
1836,  it  appeared  that  there  were  2490  individuals  in  the  parish 
who  were  in  communion  with  the  establishment,  although,  in  con- 
sequence of  age  and  infirmities,  the  great  distance  of  many  of  them 
from  the  church,  and  the  necessity  of  having  a  proper  person  to 
watch  over  many  of  the  families  on  the  communion  Sabbath,  near- 
ly a  fifth  of  the  whole  were  absent  when  that  service  was  perform- 
ed.   It  was  at  the  same  time  ascertained,  that  the  number  of  the 
parishioners  who  were  in  communion  with  the  various  denomina- 

FIFE. 


482  FII'ESHIRE. 


tions  of  Dissenters  amounted  to  344,  while  the  whole  number  of 
Dissenters  was  697.  Of  this  number  328  were  in  connection  with 
the  United  Associate  Synod,  150  with  the  Original  Burghers, 
108  with  the  Episcopalians,  and  111  with  the  Independents. 

A  Bible  Society  and  a  Missionanj  Society  have  been  established 
in  the  city  for  many  years.  The  annual  amount  of  their  contri- 
butions is  about  L.  30,  and  the  annual  average  of  church  collec- 
tions for  religious  purposes  is  nearly  to  the  same  amount. 

Education.— Vnov  to  the  year  1834,  there  were  in  the  parish 
seventeen  schools,  but  strictly  speaking  no  parochial  school  exist- 
ed among  the  number,  its  place  being  supplied  by  the  burgh 
school,  so  that  the  heritors  of  the  parish  were  not  burdened  with 
the  payment  of  a  schoolmaster's  salary.  Two  of  the  schools  in 
the  city,  viz.  the  English  and  grammar  schools,  had  hitherto  been 
supported  in  part  by  endowment  from  the  common  funds  of  the 
city.  And  two  of  the  schools  in  the  country  districts  have  each  a 
small  house,  garden,  and  salary  attached  to  them,  and  one  of  them 
viz.  that  of  Strathkinness,  has,  in  addition  to  these,  six  acres  of 
arable  ground,  which  were  allotted  to  it  many  years  ago,  on  the 
division  of  a  commonty  among  the  conterminous  heritors.  The 
others  were  dependent  entirely  on  the  school-fees.  In  some  of 
them,  the  reading  of  English  was  the  only  branch  taught,  in  others 
there  were  combined  with  it  writing  and  arithmetic.  In  the  gram- 
mar-school, the  master  confined  himself  to  the  teaching  of  Latm 
and  Greek.  The  school  fees  varied  considerably  in  the  different 
schools.  In  some,  they  were  as  low  as  2s.  a  quarter.  In  the  burgh 
English  school,  the  highest  charge  did  not  exceed  L.  1  a  year ; 
and  in  the  grammar-school  it  was  fixed  at  L.  2,  2s. 

The  Madras  College.— \n  May  1831,  the  Rev.  Dr  Andrew 
Bell,  one  of  the  prebendaries  of  Westminster,  the  deviser  of  the 
Madras  or  national  system  of  education,  and  a  native  of  St  An- 
drews, transferred  into  the  joint  names  of  the  provost  of  the  city 
of  St  Andrews,  the  two  ministers  of  the  parish,  and  the  Professor 
of  Greek  in  the  University,  two  several  sums  of  L.  60,000,  three 
per  cent,  reduced  annuities,  and  L.  60,000  three  per  cent,  consols, 
for  purposes  connected  with  education,  to  be  afterwards  more  ful- 
ly detailed.  And  about  two  months  afterwards,  he  and  the  said 
parties  as  trustees,  executed  a  declaration  of  trusts,  relative  to  the 
appropriation  of  the  said  sums,  in  which  it  is  narrated,  that  as  the 
procrress  of  the  Madras  System  of  Education  had  been  but  slow 
and^imperfect  in  his  native  country  of  Scotland,  he,  the  munifi- 


ST  ANDREWS.  483 

cent  donor,  entertained  the  idea  that  the  greatest  boon  he  could 
confer  upon  it  was  to  adopt  measures  for  the  more  effectual  diffu- 
sion of  the  said  system  within  its  limits  ;  and  that,  for  promoting 
this  object,  one-twelfth  share  of  the  sums  so  transferred,  after  set- 
ting apart  a  specified  sum  to  defray  all  expenses,  should  be  trans- 
ferred by  the  trustees  to  the  provost,  magistrates,  and  town-coun- 
cil of  each  of  the  five  cities  or  towns,  viz.  Edinburgh,  Glasgow, 
Leith,  Aberdeen,  and  Inverness,  on  the  condition  that  it  should 
be  held  by  them  and  their  successors  in  office  for  ever,  and  that 
the  annual  produce  thereof  should  be  employed  in  founding  and 
maintaining  schools  in  each  of  the  said  towns,  for  the  instruction 
of  child  ren  in  the  ordinary  branches  of  education,  upon  the  sys- 
tem of  mutual  instruction  and  moral  discipline  exemplified  in  the 
Madras  school.  That  a  twelfth  share  should  be  transferred  to  the 
trustees  of  the  Royal  Naval  School,  established  for  the  education 
of  children  of  officers  in  the  navy,  on  the  same  condition  and  for 
the  same  purpose.  That  another  twelfth  share  should  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  provost,  magistrates,  and  town-council  of  St  An- 
drews, so  as  to  become  a  permanent  fund  for  the  moral  and  reli- 
gious improvement  of  the  city;  and  for  such  other  useful  and  per- 
manent works  within  the  city  as  might  be  judged  most  eligible. 
And  that  the  remaining  five  shares  should  continue  to  be  vested 
in  the  four  said  trustees  and  their  successors  in  office,  substituting, 
however,  the  Sheriff-Depute  of  Fife  for  the  Professor  of  Greek  after 
the  death  of  the  present  incumbent,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting  a 
college  on  a  small  field  previously  purchased  by  Dr  Bell  within 
the  city,  with  appropriate  houses  for  masters,  monitors,  and  ser- 
vants, and  with  gardens,  shrubbery,  and  play-ground,  to  be  desig- 
nated the  Madras  College  of  St  Andrews.  It  was  further  provid- 
ed, that  the  trustees  should  not  expend  more  than  the  half  of  the 
sum  which  remained  in  their  hands  in  the  erection  of  the  neces- 
sary buildings,  and  that  the  annual  income  of  the  remainder  should 
be  applied  to  the  maintenance  of  the  said  college,  and  to  the  es- 
tablishment of  eight  bursaries  in  the  United  College,  to  be  held 
by  such  only  as  had  previously  been  educated  at  the  Madras  Col- 
lege for  the  space  of  three  years.  The  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the 
county  of  Fife,  the  Lord  Justice- Clerk  of  Scotland,  and  the  Reve- 
rend the  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  are  nominated  patrons 
and  visitors  of  the  College,  and  have  intimated  their  acceptance  of 
the  nomination  ;  and  the  trustees  for  their  own  exoneration  have  ob- 
tained the  consent  of  three  gentlemen  residing  in  the  neighbourhood, 


484 


PIFESHIRE. 


viz.  Sir  Ralph  Anstruther,  of  Balcaskie,  Baronet;  David  Mony- 
penny,  Esq.  of  PitmiUie ;  and  David  Wemyss,  Esq.  of  Denbrae, 
to  undertake  the  task  of  auditing  their  accounts. 
-  With  this  new  seminary,  the  Enghsh  and  grammar  schools  of 
the  city  are  now  incorjoorated,  with  the  salaries  attached  to  them; 
and  the  nomination  of  the  masters  is  vested  in  the  trustees,  after 
a  proper  trial  and  examination  of  the  candidates,  the  patrons  hav- 
ing a  veto  in  the  nomination.    The  trustees  are  directed  also  to 
exact  from  the  children  educated  in  the  said  college,  such  fees 
only,  as  it  shall  appear  to  them  that  the  parents  of  such  children 
are  able  to  pay  without  nauch  inconvenience ;  and  that  those  chil- 
dren whose  parents  are  imable  to  pay  any  such  fees  shall  be  edu- 
cated gratis.    They  are  directed  also  to  inspect  and  to  examine 
the  said  college  every  three  months,  that  they  may  ascertain  the 
progress  of  the  scholars  ;  and  to  have  a  public  examination  of  them 
annually. 

The  buildings  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  tuition  in  the  Madras 
College  are  now  completed.    They  form  a  quadrangle,  with  a 
court  within,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  handsome  corridor,  from 
which  the  class-rooms  enter.    The  style  of  the  building  is  that 
which  prevailed  in  England  during  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth. 
The  plan,  devised  by  William  Burn,  Esq.  architect,  Edinburgh, 
is  such  as  might  have  been  expected  from  his  taste  and  talents ; 
and  the  execution  of  the  work  is  highly  creditable  to  the  skill  of 
our  native  artisans  who  were  employed  in  the  erection.  Between 
this  quadrangle  and  the  street,  there  is  an  extensive  area  covered 
with  gravel,  where  the  pupils  of  the  institution  enjoy  air  and  exer- 
cise ;  and  close  to  the  street,  and  as  remote  from  each  other  as 
the  extent  of  the  ground  would  admit,  two  commodious  dwelling- 
houses,  harmonizing  in  their  architecture  with  the  prmcipal  budd- 
ing, have  been  erected  for  the  use  of  the  English  and  classical 
masters,  who  are  thus  furnished  with  the  means  of  receiving  each 
a  considerable  number  of  boarders. 

When  the  buildings  were  in  a  sufficient  state  of  forwardness, 
the  trustees  proceeded,  with  the  sanction  of  the  patrons,  to  model 
the  institution,  so  as  most  effectually,  in  their  apprehension,  to 
meet  the  object  of  the  founder  and  the  benefit  of  the  community, 
and  to  put  the  whole  into  operation.  It  now  (January  1838) 
comprehends  teachers  of  the  following  branches: — 1.  Of  English 
and  of  English  grammar,  who  is  furnished  with  an  assistant ;  2.  of 
Greek  and  Latin,  who  has  also  an  assistant ;  3.  of  arithmetic  ; 


ST  ANDREWS. 


485 


4.  of  mathematics  and  geography ;  5.  of  writing ;  6.  of  drawing ; 
7.  of  the  French,  German,  and  ItaUan  languages;  and,  8.  of  church 
music. 

The  pupils  connected  with  the  English  department  are  accom- 
modated in  two  large  apartments,  in  the  south  division  of  the 
quadrangle.  The  classical  teacher,  with  his  pupils,  occupies  an 
elegant  and  spacious  apartment  in  the  northern  division,  while  the 
teachers  of  arithmetic  and  writing  occupy,  respectively,  the  east  and 
west  divisions.  In  the  trustees'  room,  there  is  a  handsome  marble 
bust  of  the  founder,  executed  by  Mr  Joseph,  London,  which  is  re- 
garded as  exhibiting  a  very  accurate  likeness  of  the  original  at  the 
period  when  it  passed  through  the  hands  of  the  artist.  About 
150  children  of  the  most  indigent  of  the  citizens  are  selected  by 
the  trustees  to  receive  a  gratuitous  education.  Those  who  can 
afford  to  pay  for  the  education  of  their  families  have,  for  the  or- 
dinary branches,  a  selection  of  two  rates  of  fees,  the  one  being 
double  the  amount  of  the  other, — the  same  masters,  however,  su- 
perintending the  whole.  The  higher  rate  is  2s.  a  quarter  for 
English  reading  ;  2s.  6d.  for  reading  and  writing  ;  and  3s.  for  read- 
ing, Avriting,  arithmetic,  and  English  grammar.  The  fees  in  the 
other  departments,  viz.  to  the  classical  teacher,  to  the  teacher  of 
modern  languages,  drawing,  and  mathematics,  are  each  7s.  6d.  a 
quarter,  while  the  music  master  has  only  Is.  a  quarter  from  each 
of  his  pupils.  In  addition  to  their  respective  fees,  the  teachers 
of  arithmetic,  writing,  and  the  modern  languages  have  each  an 
allowance  of  L.  50  a  year  from  the  funds  of  the  college,  and 
the  music  master  L.  25.  The  English  master  has  a  salary  of 
L.  25  annually  from  the  funds  of  the  city,  and  the  classical  mas- 
ter has  L.  50  annually  from  the  same  source. 

The  trustees  have  been  most  fortunate  in  the  selection  of  teach- 
ers for  this  new  institution  ;  and  the  beneficial  consequences  that 
were  anticipated  from  it  have  been  amply  realized.  St  Andrews 
has  long  been  regarded  as  a  most  eligible  place  for  education  in 
all  its  departments ;  and  the  erection  of  the  Madras  College  has 
contributed  materially  to  increase  its  attractiveness.  The  follow- 
ing detail  exhibits  a  statement  of  the  number  of  pupils  attending 
the  several  classes  in  May  1836,  viz.— The  English  classes,  629; 
writing  do.  447  ;  drawing  do.  30  ;  arithmetic  do.  360  ;  mathema- 
tical do.  40  ;  geography  do.  43  ;  Latin  do.  95  ;  Greek  do.  50  ; 
church  music  do.  80.  The  total  number  of  pupils  attending  the 
institution  at  this  date  was,  on  a  careful  scrutiny,  found  to  be  798. 


486 


FlFESHIllE. 


Dr  Bell,  the  munificent  benefactor  of  his  country,  and  of  his 
native  city  in  particular,  did  not  live  to  see  his  benevolent  purposes 
carried  into  full  operation.  He  died  at  Cheltenham  in  January 
1832,  in  the  seventy-ninth  year  of  his  age,  leaving  the  bulk  of  the 
residue  of  his  fortune  for  the  same  valuable  object,  namely,  the 
education  of  the  young  in  Scotland,  on  the  principles  laid  down  in 
the  printed  manual,  which  details  the  particulars  of  his  excellent 
system. 

Two  Boarding  Schools  for  young  ladies,  where  day-scholars  are 
also  admitted  from  the  families  resident  in  the  city,  have  long 
been  established  at  St  Andrews.  In  these,  all  the  usual  branches 
of  education  that  are  required  for  females  in  the  higher  ranks  of 
life  may  be  attained.  Two  other  schools  conducted  by  females 
at  present  exist ;  and  the  number  of  pupils  attending  the  whole  of 
these  seminaries  is  about  65.  In  addition  to  the  Madras  College, 
there  are  two  schools  in  the  city  conducted  by  males,  the  number 
of  whose  scholars  is  52 ;  and  in  the  schools  established  in  the 
country  districts  of  the  parish,  220  young  persons  receive  their 
education.  The  Sunday  schools  in  the  parish  are  attended  by  seve- 
ral hundreds.  The  people  seem  to  be,  in  general,  fully  alive  to  the 
benefits  resulting  from  a  good  education  ;  and  as  schools  have  been 
long  established  in  the  different  districts  of  the  parish,  all  have 
had  the  means  within  their  reach  of  securing  it  for  their  children. 
There  is,  in  consequence,  scarcely  an  individual  in  the  parish  above 
the  age  of  ten  years,  who  cannot  read,  and  but  few  who  cannot  also 
write. 

These  details  relative  to  the  institutions  connected  with  the 
elementary  branches  of  education,  naturally  lead  to  a  survey  of 
the  establishments  with  which  St  Andrews  has  been  furnished  for 
the  acquisition  of  higher  attainments  in  literature  and  science. 

The  University  of  St  Andrews. — This  university  was  establish- 
ed in  1411,  by  Henry  Wardlaw,  Bishop  of  St  Andrews.  Prior  to 
this  period,  the  young  men  in  Scotland,  who  aimed  at  the  attain- 
ment of  a  more  liberal  education  than  the  seminaries  of  the  coun- 
try afforded,  were  under  the  necessity  of  repairing  to  foreign  uni- 
versities and  colleges.  And  as  their  removal  thither  was  frequent- 
ly attended  with  much  risk  and  inconvenience,  the  discerning  part 
of  the  community  were  sensible  of  the  advantages  which  the  coun- 
try would  derive  from  the  establishment  of  an  institution  within  its 
limits,  where  the  higher  branches  of  education,  in  science,  phi- 
losophy, and  theology,  might  be  attained.  Wardlaw,  the  eccle- 
siastical metropolitan  of  the  kingdom,  was  one  of  the  individuals 


ST  ANDREWS. 


487 


who  entertained  these  sentiments;  and  having  ascertained  that  his 
Sovereign  James  I.,  at  that  period  a  prisoner  in  England,  heartily 
approved  of  such  an  estabhshment,  he  determined,  with  the  co- 
operation of  some  of  the  most  enlightened  of  the  ecclesiastics  of 
his  diocese,  to  erect  an  university  at  St  Andrews.    And  the  sanc- 
tion of  the  Pope  being  at  that  period  regarded  as  necessary  to  le- 
galize such  an  establishment,  he  applied  to  Benedict  XIII.,  who 
was  recognized  by  the  Scottish  nation  as  the  duly  constituted  head 
of  the  Church,  who  readily  approved  of  the  measure,  and  who 
sent  him  a  bull,  sanctioning  and-confirming  the  new  erection.  By 
this  charter,  the  bishop  of  the  diocese  was  recognized  as  the  chan- 
cellor of  the  university,  authority  being  conveyed  to  him  to  confer 
degrees  in  theology,  laws,  medicine,  and  the  arts.    The  funds  at- 
tached to  the  institution  were  at  first  extremely  limited ;  but  the 
individuals  who  were  appointed  to  superintend  the  different  de- 
partments of  study,  and  who  in  general  enjoyed  endowments  from 
other  sources,  were  enthusiastic  in  the  cause ;  and  although  they 
received  but  httle  remuneration  for  their  labours,  they  persevered 
in  their  efforts,  and  attracted  to  their  prelections  multitudes  of 
voung  men  from  the  several  districts  of  the  kingdom.   At  the  head 
of  the  institution  a  rector  was  placed,  of  whom,  by  the  charter  of 
erection,  it  was  required,  as  a  necessary  qualification,  that  he  should 
be  a  graduate  in  one  of  the  faculties,  and  that  he  should  be  in- 
vested with  holy  orders. 

St  Salvator's  College. — James  Kennedy,  the  successor  of  Ward-, 
law  in  the  discharge  of  the  Episcopal  functions  at  St  Andrews, 
judging  the  scale  of  the  original  institution  of  the  university  to  be 
too  limited  for  the  great  concourse  of  students,  prepared  the  way 
for  its  farther  extension  and  improvement,  by  the  erection  of  the 
College  of  St  Salvator  in  1455,  with  which  he  incorporated  for 
an  endowment  the  rectorial  tithes  of  the  parishes  of  Cults,  Kem- 
back,  Denino,  and  Kilmany,  the  three  principal  masters  of  the 
college,  being  constituted  rectors  of  the  three  first  enumerated 
parishes ;  and  the  fruits  of  the  last  being  reserved  as  a  common 
fund,  for  the  use  and  maintenance  of  all  the  founded  persons,  who 
were  thirteen  in  number,  together  with  their  attendants  and  ser- 
vants.   This  erection  was  also  sanctioned  with  the  Pope's  autho- 
rity, who  bestowed  on  it  the  privilege  of  conferring  degrees  in  the- 
ology and  the  arts. 

St  Leonard's  College. — In  the  year  1512,  John  Hepburn,  Prior 
of  the  Augustinian  Monastery  at  St  Andrews,  made  an  additional 


488 


FIl'ESHIRE. 


increase  to  tlie  extent  of  the  university,  by  the  erection  of  St 
Leonard's  College,  which  he  endowed  with  the  revenues  of  the 
hospital  at  St  Andrews,  which  had  formerly  been  appropriated  to 
the  reception  of  pilgrims,  who  repaired  to  this  city  for  the  pious 
purpose  of  viewing  the  relics  of  its  tutelary  saint.  Twenty-five 
persons  were  to  be  supported  by  this  new  foundation,  viz.  a  prin- 
cipal, four  chaplains,  two  of  them  being  regents,  and  twenty  scho- 
lars. This  erection  was  soon  afterwards  confirmed  by  the  arch- 
bishop, and  by  the  monarch  of  the  country,  James  IV. 

St  Marys  College.— Ki  the  period  of  the  erection  of  St  Leon- 
ard's College,  the  buildings  which  had  been  appropriated  to  the 
use  of  the  university  after  its  first  establishment,  and  which  were 
denominated  the  Pedagogy,  having  fallen  into  great  disrepair,  and 
the  slenderness  of  the  funds  connected  with  this  part  of  the  insti- 
tution having  rendered  it  a  matter  of  difficulty  to  procure  the  ser- 
vices of  men  properly  qualified  for  conducting  the  education  of  the 
students,  the  archbishop,  with  the  consent  and  concurrence  of  the 
prior  and  convent,  formed  the  design  of  repairing  or  of  rebuilding 
them,  and  of  erecting  them  into  a  college  with  a  suitable  endow- 
ment ;  but  for  reasons  which  have  not  been  ascertained,  the  inten- 
tion was  not  then  carried  into  execution.    In  15.37,  however, 
James  Beaton,  the  archbishop,  resolved  to  prosecute  the  plan  which 
had  been  devised  by  his  predecessor  in  office,  and  obtained  the 
sanction  of  the  Pope  for  the  erection  of  a  college  on  the  site  of 
the  pedagogy,  to  be  denominated  St  Mary's  College.    He  was 
proceeding  in  the  execution  of  the  work,  when  its  farther  progress  ' 
was  arrested  by  his  death.    Cardinal  Beaton,  his  successor  in  of- 
fice, continued  the  work,  which,  however,  was  far  from  being  com- 
plete at  the  period  of  his  murder.    Archbishop  Hamilton,  who 
succeeded  him,  greatly  enlarged  the  plan  of  the  new  erection,  and 
completed  the  work.    He  assumed  to  himself  also  the  title  of 
founder  of  the  college,  to  which,  however,  he  continued  the  desig- 
nation which  had  been  assigned  to  it  by  his  predecessors.    He  in- 
tended  it  to  be  on  a  much  larger  scale  than  either  of  the  other 
two  colleges  connected  with  the  University,  and  that  there  should 
be  maintained  within  its  precincts  a  principal,  eight  professors,  and 
twenty-four  bursars  in  theology  and  philosophy,  besides  menial  at- 
tendants.   And  for  the  maintenance  of  the  establishment,  he  ap- 
propriated the  tithes  of  the  parishes  of  1  annadice,  Tynningham, 
Laurencekirk,  Pert,  Tarvet,  and  Craig.    This  erection  was  also 


ST  ANDREWS 


489 


sanctioned  by  the  Pope,  who  conferred  on  it  the  privilege  of  con- 
ferringf  des'rees  in  the  several  faculties. 

From  the  monarchs  of  the  country,  the  University  and  its  col- 
leges experienced  all  due  encouragement.  They  confirmed  their 
several  charters  of  erection,  and  they  exempted  the  individuals 
connected  with  them,  whether  masters  or  students,  together  with 
their  revenues,  from  all  services  and  taxations,  which  might  af- 
fect the  other  subjects  who  were  resident  within  the  kingdom. 

Soon  after  the  Reformation,  it  was  deemed  to  be  expedient,  that 
the  University  and  its  colleges  should  be  modelled  anew,  so  as 
that  they  might  be  accommodated  to  the  change  which  had  taken 
place  in  the  religious  establishment  of  the  country ;  and  by  an 
enactment  of  the  Legislature  in  1579,  what  is  usually  known  by 
the  name  of  Buchanan^s  Reformation^  because  the  celebrated 
George  Buchanan  was  one  of  the  commissioners  employed  in 
drawing  up  the  plan  of  the  new  arrangements,  was  carried  into 
effect.  By  the  provisions  of  this  act,  the  colleges  of  St  Salvator 
and  St  Leonard  were  to  be  restricted  to  the  teaching  of  philoso- 
phy, and  St  Mary's  was  to  be  a  seminary  for  theology  only.  In 
process  of  time,  however,  it  was  found,  that  the  alterations  which 
had  thus  been  effected,  had  given  rise  to  uncertainty  on  the  part 
of  the  professors,  relative  to  the  sciences  which  they  were  required 
to  teach,  and  to  a  consequent  negligence  in  the  discharge  of  their 
professional  duties.  To  i-emedy  this  evil,  a  fresh  enactment  of  the 
Legislature  in  1621,  ratified  the  first  foundations  of  the  three  col- 
leges in  all  their  heads,  articles,  and  clauses,  so  far  as  was  consist- 
ent with  the  state  of  the  reformed  religious  establishment,  and 
ordained  the  different  members  of  the  colleges  to  conform  them- 
selves to  the  regulations  therein  specified,  with  the  exception  only, 
that  the  masters  of  St  Mary's  College  should  confine  themselves 
to  the  teaching  of  divinity,  as  directed  by  the  former  Act  of  Par- 
liament. 

The  three  colleges,  thus  restored  to  their  original  foundations, 
continued  to  subsist  until  the  year  1747,  when,  in  consequence  of 
the  inadequacy  of  the  provision  for  the  principals  and  professors 
of  the  two  philosophy  colleges,  an  union  of  them,  which  had  for 
some  time  been  contemplated,  was  carried  into  eflect  by  an  act  of 
the  British  Parliament  ratifying  the  measure,  and  embracing  a  de- 
tail of  the  regulations  by  which  the  future  arrangements  of  the 
United  College  of  St  Salvator  and  St  Leonard's  were  to  be  con- 
ducted.   By  this  statute,  the  number  of  the  endowments  was  con- 


490 


FIFESIIIRE. 


siderably  curtailed.  Instead  of  two  principals  and  ten  professors 
which  formed  the  previous  establishment  of  the  two  colleges,  the 
United  College  was  to  have  but  one  principal  and  eight  profes- 
sors. 

No  change  in  the  constitution  of  the  colleges  has  taken  place 
since  that  period,  and  the  United  College  has  now  a  principal, 
who  superintends  the  whole  establishment,  but  who  has  hitherto 
been  required  to  take  no  active  share  in  conducting  any  of  the 
particular  departments  of  literature  or  science ;  and  Professors  of 
Greek,  Humanity  or  Latin,  of  Logic  and  Rhetoric,  of  Moral  Philo- 
sophy, of  Natural  Philosophy,  of  Civil  History,  and  of  Medicine;  the 
Professor  of  Moral  Philosophy  having  also  a  class  for  political  eco- 
nomy, and  the  Professor  of  Medicine  a  class  for  chemistry  and 
chemical  pharmacy.  A  few  years  ago,  the  college  resolved  to  al- 
low a  salary  of  L.  26,  5s.  annually  from  their  revenue  to  a  lectur- 
er on  natural  history.  A  gentleman  well  qualified  for  the  under- 
taking was  selected  for  the  office,  and  for  several  seasons  fulfilled 
its  duties  with  much  credit  to  himself,  and  advantage  to  his  pupils. 
But  it  was  found,  in  the  issue,  that  the  number  of  students  who 
were  disposed  to  avail  themselves  of  this  new  institution,  was  too 
limited  to  afford  an  adequate  remuneration,  and  the  labours  of  the 
lecturer  were  in  consequence  discontinued.  In  St  Mary's  Col- 
lege, there  is  a  principal,  who  is  also  Primarius  Professor  of  Theo- 
logy, and  who  is  actively  employed  in  conducting  the  department 
of  systematic  theology,  a  Professor  of  Divinity,  who  confines  him- 
self chiefly  to  biblical  criticism,  and  Professors  of  Ecclesiastical 
History,  and  the  Oriental  Languages. 

The  Senatus  Academicus  of  the  University  is  composed  of  the 
principals  and  professors  of  the  colleges,  and  the  rector  of  the 
University  presides  at  its  meetings.  By  it  alone,  degrees  are  con- 
ferred, the  other  faculties  only  exercising  the  privilege  of  recom- 
mending to  its  notice  such  individuals  as  they  may  deem  qualified 
for  receiving  the  distinction.  This  aggregate  body  superintends 
the  arrangements  connected  with  the  University  library ;  it  nomi- 
nates the  Chancellor  of  the  University  when  a  vacancy  occurs,  and 
it  possesses  and  exercises  the  right  of  electing  the  Professor  of 
Medicine,  the  librarian  and  the  archbeadle.  An  appeal  to  it  is  com- 
petent in  certain  cases,  it  is  understood,  from  a  judgment  pro- 
nounced by  either  of  the  colleges. 

The  Rector  of  the  university  is  elected  annually  on  the  first 
Monday  of  March,  at  a  meeting  of  the  comitia  of  the  whole  uni- 


ST  ANDREWS. 


491 


versity,  comprehending  the  principals,  professors,  and  students,  by 
four  delegates  of  their  number  denominated  intrants,  who  repre- 
sent the  four  nations  or  bodies,  viz.  the  Fifani,  Albani,  Lothiani, 
and  Angusiani,  into  which  the  members  of  the  comitia  are  arrang- 
ed, and  who  are  supposed  to  form  their  decision  in  conformity  to 
the  general  sentiment  entertained  by  their  constituents.  By  the 
existing  regulations,  the  only  individuals  who  are  eligible  to  the  of- 
fice of  rector  are  the  principals  of  the  two  colleges,  and  the  pro- 
fessors of  divinity  and  ecclesiastical  history. 

From  time  to  time,  royal  visitations  of  the  university  and  its  col- 
leges, were  found  requisite  to  correct  abuses,  where  they  had  been 
introduced,  to  see  that  the  rules  of  the  several  institutions  were 
properly  observed,  and  to  establish  such  alterations  in  the  regula- 
tions as  might  be  deemed  necessary  for  the  advancement  of  lite- 
rature, and  for  the  welfare  of  the  several  corporations.  This  prac- 
tice having  been  discontinued  for  more  than  a  century,  his  Ma- 
jesty George  IV.  in  1826,  issued  a  commission  to  certain  noble- 
men and  gentlemen  to  visit  the  several  universities  in  Scotland, 
to  take  a  particular  account  of  the  existing  state  of  these  institu- 
tions, to  report  their  proceedings  to  his  Majesty,  and  to  suggest 
such  rules,  ordinances,  and  improvements,  as  they  might  judge  to 
be  expedient  for  their  future  regulation  and  prosperity.  This  ar- 
duous task,  the  commissioners  ably  and  faithfully  performed ;  and 
their  report,  which  is  voluminous  and  interesting,  was  presented  to 
his  Majesty  several  years  ago.  But  although  several  attempts  have 
been  made  to  found  upon  it  a  legislative  enactment,  such  a  mea- 
sure has  hitherto  been  found  to  be  attended  with  difficulties  of  no 
ordinary  magnitude,  and  none  of  the  suggestions  of  the  commis- 
sioners have  yet  received  the  necessary  sanction  for  establishing 
their  introduction  and  enforcement. 

The  endowments  of  the  colleges  having  been  greatly  curtailed 
within  the  last  half  century,  by  the  augmentations  of  the  stipends 
of  those  parishes,  of  the  tithes  of  which  they  were  titulars,  their 
revenues,  after  affording  an  inadequate  salary  to  the  several  incum- 
bents, and  other  necessary  disbursements,  were  found  to  be  total- 
ly inadequate  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  the  college  buildings 
in  a  proper  state  of  repair.  They  were  in  consequence,  a  few 
years  ago,  in  a  very  dilapidated  state,  and  a  considerable  part  of 
them  must  have  been  allowed  to  fall  into  ruin.  In  consequence, 
however,  of  the  intervention  of  Lord  Melville,  the  Chancellor  of 
the  University,  strengthened  by  the  concurrence  of  the  royal  com- 


492 


FIFESHIHE. 


missioners,  the  Lords  of  the  Treasury  were  directed  by  his  late 
Majesty,  George  IV.,  to  issue  an  order  for  the  appropriation  of 
the  sum  that  might  be  deemed  requisite,  for  re-establishing  such 
of  the  buildings  as  were  capable  of  being  repaired,  and  of  rebuild- 
ing such  as  were  hastening  towards  irremediable  decay.  St  Mary's 
College  has  in  consequence  been  repaired  agreeably  to  a  design 
by  Mr  Reid,  the  King's  Architect  in  Edinburgh,  and  has  now  an 
appropriate  academical  appearance.  An  elegant  plan  was  also 
formed  by  the  same  gentleman,  for  the  erection  of  a  new  set  of 
buildings  for  the  United  College.  A  considerable  part  of  the 
work,  was  in  consequence  executed,  and  its  continuance  and  com- 
pletion, it  was  expected,  would  ere  long  have  been  carried  into  exe- 
cution ;  but  the  farther  progress  of  the  undertaking  has  been  delay- 
ed, and  farther  advances  from  the  Treasury  have,  it  is  understood, 
been  refused,  on  the  ground,  that  the  sum  set  apart  for  the  re-esta- 
blishmentof  the  University  buildings,  has  already  been  expended.  It 
may  be  properto add,  that  the  University  Libra7y,\\hose  apartments 
were  completely  filled  with  a  store  of  books,  amounting  to  upwards 
of  30,000  volumes,  was  at  the  same  time  greatly  enlarged.  The 
front  of  the  old  part  of  this  building  toward  the  street,  was  then 
renewed,  or  retouched,  so  as  to  harmonize  with  the  new  part  of 
the  erection,  and  it  exhibits  a  line  of  handsome  shields,  extending 
from  the  one  extremity  to  the  other,  on  which  are  emblazoned  the 
arms  of  the  several  Chancellors  of  the  University,  from  its  first 
erection  down  to  the  present  times. 

The  elegant  Gothic  Chapel  and  Tower  of  St  Salvator's  College, 
erected  by  Bishop  Kennedy,  still  remain,  though  somewhat  muti- 
lated and  altered,  both  internally  and  externally.  The  fine  arched 
roof  of  the  former  was  removed,  considerably  more  than  half  a  cen- 
tury ago,  on  an  apprehension  of  insecurity,  for  which  there  appears 
to  have  been  but  little  foundation.  Its  rich  antique  windows  have 
been  supplanted  by  others  of  a  far  less  appropriate  aspect,  and  the 
beautiful  monument  of  its  founder,  with  which  the  chapel  was 
adorned,  was  seriously  injured  by  the  carelessness  and  unskilfulness 
of  the  workmen,  who  were  employed  in  carrying  these  alterations 
into  execution.  About  the  same  period,  the  parish  church  of  St 
Leonard's  having  fallen  into  disrepair,  the  congregation  removed  to 
this  chapel,  which  was  properly  fitted  up  for  their  accommodation, 
and  it  still  continues  to  be  employed  for  this  purpose. 

There  are  many  other  interesting  particulars  relative  to  the 
University  and  its  colleges,  which  might  have  been  detailed,  but 


ax  ANDREWS. 


493 


which  the  limits  prescribed  to  this  article  render  it  necessary  for 
the  writer  to  omit. 

Literature. — A  parochial  library  was  established  in  St  Andrews 
a  few  years  ago.  The  publications  which  have  been  introduced 
into  it,  are  almost  exclusively  of  a  rehgious  character.  The  num- 
ber of  the  volumes  now  amounts  to  260  ;  and  one  shilling  a-year 
only  is  exacted  from  those  who  avail  themselves  of  the  advantages 
which  it  affords.  About  fifteen  years  ago,  a  number  of  the  gentle- 
men residing  in  the  city  and  neighbourhood  entered  into  an  asso- 
ciation for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  library  which  might  em- 
brace the  most  popular  productions  connected  with  general  litera- 
ture. They  have  now  a  library  of  considerable  value,  compre- 
hending nearly  1200  volumes,  and  which  is  annually  on  the  in- 
crease.^ The  books  are  given  out  to  subscribers  only,  who  pay  an 
annual  subscription  of  8s.,  and  who  are  at  present  about  100  in 
number.  A  Mechanics  Library  was  established  some  years 
ago,  and  it  seemed  at  first  to  meet  with  considerable  encourage- 
ment, but  of  late  it  has  not  prospered.  No  school  of  arts,  nor  any 
scientific,  literary,  or  antiquarian  society,  has  been  established 
within  the  parish,  the  society  being  too  limited  for  affording  the 
necessary  support,  for  any  considerable  length  of  time,  to  such  in- 
stitutions. 

Charitable  and  other  Institutions. — A  few  years  ago,  several 
friendly  societies  existed  in  the  city,  but  they  have  one  by  one  been 
abandoned.  They  appeared,  while  they  were  in  operation,  to  be 
highly  beneficial  in  their  tendency,  and  to  be  conducive  to  the 
formation  of  industrious  habits.  They  were  evidently  founded, 
however,  on  erroneous  calculations,  and  held  out  much  more 
flattering  promises  of  advantage  to  the  contributors  than  they 
were  able  to  realize.  It  is  to  be  apprehended  also,  that  where 
they  engaged  to  afford  a  weekly  allowance  to  a  contributor  when 
he  was  in  distress,  and  when  he  was  unable  to  attend  to  his  ordi- 
nary duties,  there  were  individuals  who  occasionally  counterfeited 
sickness,  or  who  continued  much  longer  on  the  sick  list  than  was 
just  and  equitable,  that  they  might  receive  the  stipulated  allow- 
ance. The  detection  of  a  few  cases  of  this  description,  combined 
with  the  necessity  which  existed  of  remodelling  the  whole  plan 
of  their  arrangements,  so  as  to  enable  the  managers  to  fulfil  their 
engagements,  has  had  the  tendency  to  render  them  unpopular, 
and  to  lead  to  their  dissolution.    This  is  much  to  be  lamented, 


494 


FIFESHIRK. 


as  while  they  are  calculated  to  cherish  industrious  hahits,  ihey 
foster  also  the  natural  desire  of  independence. 

A  Savmgs  Bank  was  established  in  the  city  in  1816.  During 
the  first  nine  years,  the  amount  of  the  deposits,  after  deducting  the 
sums  withdrawn,  was  annually  on  the  increase.  During  the  fol- 
lowing three  years,  there  was  a  considerable  decrease,  but  since 
that  period,  the  increase  has  again  been  steady,  and  the  amount  in 
March  1837  is  about  L.  1100  Sterling.  The  number  of  the  de- 
positors is  at  present  nearly  200,  and  the  average  amount  of  the 
deposits  is  about  L.  6.  The  deposits  are  almost  exclusively 
made  by  persons  belonging  to  the  labouring  classes.  They 
are  lodged  in  the  Bank  of  Scotland's  branch  at  St  Andrews ; 
and  that  establishment  has  from  the  commencement,  with  the  view 
of  encouraging  the  savings  bank,  allowed  one  per  cent,  more  of 
interest  to  its  deposits  than  to  ordinary  depositors,  so  that  the 
rate  of  intei-est  to  savings  bank  deposits  has  never  been  below  3 
per  cent.  '  The  writer  of  this  article  has  had  the  sole  charge  of 
the  savitigs  bank,  for  eighteen  years  past.  He  sets  apart  for  it  an 
hour  every  Monday,  though  in  general  the  half  of  that  time  would 
be  quite  sufficient. 

Poor  and  Funds  for  their  support  under  the  management  of  the 
Kirk-session. — The  average  number  of  persons  receiving  parochial 
aid,  during  the  last  seven  years,  was  103  per  annum,'and  their  al- 
lowances varied  from  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  weekly,  according  to  their  exi- 
gencies. The  funds  for  their  support  were,  average  collections  at 
the  church  doors,  L.  218,  4s.  2d.  ;  rent  and  feu-duties  of  lands, 
L.  73,  16s.  7d. ;  interest  of  a  debt  due  by  the  city,  L.  40;  col- 
lected by  Saturday's  box,  L.  44,  4s. ;  rent  of  a  legacy,  L.  5  ; 
total  annual  average,  L.  381,  4s.  9d.;  total  average  expenditure, 
L.417,  Os.  4id. 

The  poor's  funds  have  for  many  years  been  burdened  with  a 
heavy  expense  in  supporting  and  confining  indigent  lunatics.  The 
kirk-session  has,  in  consequence,  found  it  requisite  to  apply,  though 
at  distant  periods,  to  the  heritors,  citizens,  tenantry,  &c.  for  volun- 
tary contributions  to  enable  them  to  meet  this  expenditure,  and 
hitherto  they  have  contributed  liberally  for  this  object.  There  is 
now  unquestionably  less  delicacy  among  the  poor  relative  to  appli- 
cation for  parochial  relief  than  in  former  times,  and  there  are  many 
who  account  it  no  degradation  to  receive  an  allowance  from  this 
source.  But  there  are  also  individuals  who  can  only  be  compelled 
by  the  most  urgent  necessity  to  have  recourse  to  parochial  relief. 


ST  ANDREWS. 


495 


Prisons. — There  is  a  prison  in  the  city,  in  which  the  average 
number  confined  during  the  year  is  about  20,  for  theft,  drunk- 
enness, and  riotous  behaviour.  It  is  strong  and  well  secured. 
Particular  attention  is  paid  in  it  to  the  health,  diet,  and  lodging 
of  the  prisoners.  Its  superintendence  is  vested  in  the  magistrates, 
who  have  a  jailor  acting  under  their  direction. 

Fairs. — Three  fairs  are  held  in  the  city  annually,  on  days  which 
are  still  regulated  by  the  old  style  of  computation,  viz.  the  second 
Thm-sday  of  April,  the  1st  day  of  August,  and  the  30th  Novem- 
ber. The  first  of  the  three  was  what  Martine  denominates, 
"  the  renouned  faire  of  St  Andrews,  called  the  Senzie  Mercat, 
held  and  kept  for  fifteen  dayes,  and  beginning  the  second  week 
after  Easter,  whereunto  resorted  merchants  from  most  of  the  then 
trading  kingdomes  in  Europe ;  trade  in  this  kingdome  being  then 
in  its  infancie."  At  that  period,  according  to  tradition,  from  200 
to  300  vessels  might  have  been  seen  in  the  bay  and  harbour  of 
St  Andrews,  conveying  to  it  the  produce  of  foreign  countries.  The 
fair  is  now  confined  to  a  single  day,  and  the  business  transacted 
in  it  is  to  a  very  limited  amount.  The  fair  in  August  has  of  late 
been  much  frequented  by  the  farm-servants  of  the  eastern  districts 
of  the  county,  many  of  them  in  the  market-place  forming  engage- 
ments with  new  masters.  The  third  fair  is  held  on  St  Andrew's 
day  old  style,  and  is  usually  but  thinly  attended. 

Inns,  Sj'c. — The  number  of  inns,  alehouses,  &c.  within  the  parish 
is  48,  viz.  39  in  the  city,  and  9  in  the  country  districts.  This  is 
unquestionably  a  much  greater  number  than  the  exigencies  of  the 
population  require;  and  it  were  much  to  be  wished  that  some  ef- 
fectual expedient  were  adopted,  not  here  only,  but  throughout  the 
country  at  large,  for  checking  an  evil  which  has  so  demoralizing 
an  influence. 

Fuel — The  fuel  which  is  employed  in  the  city  is  coal,  chiefly 
conveyed  by  sea  from  Newcastle,  or  the  ports  in  the  Forth  where 
that  commodity  is  shipped.  A  part  of  the  supply  is  also  brought 
by  land  carriage  from  Largoward,  which  is  seven  miles  distant, 
and  from  Drumcarro,  which  is  still  nearer.  In  the  country  dis- 
tricts there  is  a  greater  dependence  on  the  home  supply,  though 
it  is  not  confined  to  this  alone.  The  present  expense  of  sea  coal 
is  much  greater  than  usual,  being  for  Newcastle  coal  from  18s.  to 
L.  1,  Is.  a  ton,  according  to  quality,  at  the  harbour,  while  the  coal 
from  the  Forth  varies  from  15s.  to  18s.  Those  who  are  in  the 
possession  of  horses  and  carriages,  find  it  advantageous  to  procure 


496 


FIFESHIRE, 


coals  directly  from  the  pit ;  but  where  it  is  requisite  to  pay  hire 
and  tolls,  a  family  can  be  nearly  as  cheaply  supplied  by  sea-borne 
coal. 

Miscellaneous  Obseiiva.tions. 
Since  the  publication  of  the  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish, 
by  the  late  Dr  Adamson,  in  1794,  considerable  alterations  and  im- 
provements have  taken  place.    Portions  of  the  waste  and  unculti- 
vated lands  have  been  brought  into  a  state  of  tillage.    The  mode 
of  farming  has  been  also  materially  altered  for  the  better  ;  a  much 
greater  quantity  of  grain  being  now  raised,  than  under  the  former 
system  of  agriculture.  But  the  expense  attendant  on  farming  ope- 
rations, and  the  rent  of  land,  have  also  materially  increased,  though 
for  a  number  of  years  the  latter  has  been  on  the  decline  ;  so  that 
the  farmer  of  the  present  day  does  not  derive  from  his  skill  and 
capital  so  high  a  remuneration  as  he  then  enjoyed.    Tracts  of 
soil,  too,  whose  culture  would  not  have  afforded  a  remuneration  for 
the  expense  attendant  upon  it,  have  been  planted  by  the  proprie- 
tors ;  and  the  young  plantations,  while,  in  process  of  time,  they 
will  prove  a  source  of  revenue,  will  tend  also  materially  to  the  em- 
bellishment of  the  country.    Strathkinness,  which  then  consisted 
of  but  a  few  straggling  houses,  now  forms  a  village  with  a  popu- 
lation little  short  of  500  inhabitants.    Within  the  city,  great  im- 
provements are  also  visible.  The  pavement  of  the  streets  and  lanes, 
which  was  then  in  a  very  bad  condition,  has  been  everywhere 
amended,  though  there  is  still  a  great  deficiency  of  smooth  pave- 
ment at  the  sides.    Until  within  these  twenty  years,  the  streets 
were  not  lighted  during  the  winter,  but  this  defect  has  since  been 
supplied ;  first,  by  oil,  and  ultimately,  by  gas :  a  joint  stock  com- 
pany having,  during  the  course  of  the  season,  1835,  established 
the  manufacture  of  that  commodity  for  the  supply  of  the  city. 
Many  of  the  houses  which  were  old  and  ruinous  have  been  pulled 
down,  and  have  been  replaced  by  others  of  a  more  commodious 
and  ornamental  description  ;  and  a  number  of  the  blank  spaces 
which  presented  themselves  in  the  streets  and  lanes  have  been 
filled  up  with  appropriate  buildings.    Regarded  as  a  bathing- 
station,  the  city  has  been  furnished  with  a  handsome  erection  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  castle,  and  overhanging  the  sea,  con- 
taining suitable  accommodation  for  hot  and  cold  baths,  which  may 
be  obtained  at  a  moderate  expense.  The  sea-beach,  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  the  city,  is  well-adapted  for  bathing,  but  it  is  still  destitute 
of  what  many  would  regard  as  a  very  appropriate  convenience, 


ST  LEONARDS.  497 

for  such  a  locality,  viz.,  one  or  two  batliing-machines,  which  it  is 
supposed  would  amply  remunerate  the  proprietor  for  the  expense 
incurred  by  their  introduction. 

The  Typographical  art  was  cultivated  at  St  Andrews  previous 
to  the  era  of  the  Reformation  ;  but  the  works  which,  about  that  pe- 
riod, were  printed  in  the  city  are  now  very  rare,  and  are  only  to 
be  found  in  some  of  the  most  valuable  libraries.  Among  these,  the 
Complaynt  of  Scotland,  printed  in  1548,  and  Archbishop  Hamil- 
ton's Catechism,  printed  in  1552,  have  attracted  considerable  at- 
tention. When  the  city  fell  into  a  state  of  decay,  after  the  de- 
struction of  the  principal  ecclesiastical  edifices,  and  the  alienation 
of  the  revenues,  by  which  they  were  supported,  the  art  of  printing 
appearsto  have  been  discontinued.  An  attempt  to  revive  it  within 
the  precincts  of  the  University  was  made  in  1796  by  Mr  Morison 
of  Perth,  who  Wcxs  appointed  to  the  office  of  university  printer, 
when,  with  several  other  productions,  accurate  editions  of  certain 
of  the  Latin  classics  were  printed,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Dr  John  Hunter,  then  Professor  of  Humanity.  But  although  the 
editor  was  a  gentleman  of  distinguished  talents  and  celebrity,  it 
was  found  that  the  expense  of  the  establishment  more  than 
counterbalanced  the  profit,  and  Mr  Morison  was  induced  to  resign 
the  appomtment,  and  to  withdraw  his  press. 

A  branch  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  was  established  in  the  city 
nearly  half  a  century  ago,  and  has  been  continued  to  the  present 
day  without  any  rival  ;  the  limited  extent  of  the  commercial  ar- 
rangements of  the  city  and  its  vicinity  requiring  no  additional 
supply. 

December  1837,  revised  February  1838. 


PARISH  OF  ST  LEONARDS. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  J.  HUNTER,  LL.  D.  MINISTER.* 


I- — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
iVawe.— This  parish  derives  its  name  from  one  of  the  Saints 
of  the  Roman  Calendar,  who,  in  the  earlier  part  of  his  life,  was 
one  of  the  noblemen  who  frequented  the  Court  of  Clevis  I.  King 

*  Drawn  up  by  the  Rev.  Dr  George  Buist,  one  of  the  Ministers  of  St  Andrews. 
FIFE. 


I  1 


498 


FIFESHIRK. 


of  the  Franks,  who  afterwards  retired  from  that  court  to  a  forest 
in  the  Limousin,  where  he  constructed  an  oratory,  and  acquired 
high  celebrity  as  a  preacher.  His  fame  is  said  to  have  been 
greatly  increased  by  the  miraculous  endowments  he  exhiljited,  and 
by  the  sanctity  of  his  life.  After  his  death  he  was  canonized,  and 
many  religious  edifices  were  dedicated  to  him,  not  in  France  only 
but  also  in  Britain.  He  died  soon  after  the  middle  of  the  sixth 
century  of  the  Christian  era. 

It  is  uncertain  at  what  period  the  territory  which  at  present 
constitutes  the  parish  of  St  Leonards  was  originally  erected  into 
a  parish.    From  the  erection  of  St  Leonard's  College  in  1512, 
its  parochial  status  can  be  distinctly  traced,  but  prior  to  that  pe- 
riod, it  is  not  so  decidedly  fixed.    There  are  circumstances  which 
seem  to  render  it  probable  that  it  is  not  of  a  more  ancient  date. 
When,  according  to  tradition,  the  Greek  monk  Regulus  and  his  as- 
sociates who  had  sailed  from  Greece,  carrying  along  with  them 
certain  of  the  bones  or  relics  of  the  apostle  Andrew,  were  wreck- 
ed at  the  spot  where  the  city  of  St  Andrews  now  stands,  they  were 
successful  in  prevailing  upon  the  monarch  of  the  country  and  the 
bulk  of  his  subjects,  to  abandon  their  idolatrous  notions  and  prac- 
tices, and  to  embrace  Christianity.    The  precious  relics,  which 
had  been  preserved  at  the  period  of  the  shipwreck,  were  carefully 
kept,  and  in  the  superstitious  times  which  followed,  multitudes 
flocked,  not  only  from  the  various  districts  of  the  kingdom,  but 
also  from  foreign  lands,  to  inspect  and  admire  them,  and  to  expe- 
rience the  influence  of  their  supposed  miraculous  powers.  The 
multitude  of  these  devotees  was,  at  certain  periods,  so  great,  that 
they  could  not  be  conveniently  accommodated,  in  the  bmldmgs 
which  had  been  erected  for  the  use  of  the  existing  religious  insti- 
tutions of  the  place,  and  they  were  often  in  consequence  subject- 
ed to  very  considerable  inconvenience.    To  remedy  this  evil,  it 
was  judged  to  be  expedient,  that  a  house  should  be  erected  of  suf- 
ficient dimensions  for  their  accommodation,  in  the  vicmity  of  the 
apartment  where  the  relics  were  deposited.    And  as  many  of  the 
devotees  were  in  indigent  circumstances,  and  the  idea,  in  these 
ages,  was  very  generally  prevalent,  that  such  pilgrimages  were 
highly  meritorious,  and  ought  to  meet  with  all  due  encouragement 
from  the  ecclesiastical  bodies,  ample  funds  were  set  apart  for  their 
maintenance,  for  such  a  period  as  might  be  deemed  proper  for 
them  to  remain  in  the  place.    This  house  of  entertainment  for 
poor  pilgrims  was  denominated  an  hospital,  and  it  was  dedicated 


ST  LEONARDS. 


499 


to  St  Leonard.    Like  most  of  the  religious  institutions  of  the 
times,  it  had  a  church  or  chapel  attached  to  it,  which  is  fre- 
quently alluded  to  in  the  records  of  the  University  prior  to  the 
erection  of  St  Leonard's  College,  as  one  of  the  places  where 
that  body  held  its  meetings,  at  a  period  when  the  apartments 
appropriated  for  its  accommodation  were  very  circumscribed. 
In  process  of  time,  the  desire  for  pilgrimages  cooled,  and  the 
veneration  for  ancient  relics  decayed.    The  hospital  of  St  Leo- 
nard's became,  in  consequence,  less  and  less  frequented,  and  this 
desertion  increased  at  last  to  such  an  extent,  that  it  was  obvious 
that  its  revenues  ought  to  be  appropriated  to  some  more  beneficial 
purpose.    An  experiment  was  accordingly  made,  to  convert  it 
into  an  hospital  or  nunnery  for  the  reception  of  females  consider- 
ably advanced  in  years,  who  might  there  devote  themselves  to  the 
performance  of  religious  duties  ;  but  it  failed  to  realize  the  expec- 
tations which  had  been  formed  of  its  utility,  its  inmates  having 
exhibited  but  few  indications  of  a  regard  either  for  morality  or 
piety.  The  prior  and  convent  of  the  Augustine  monastery,  with- 
in whose  precincts  the  hospital  was  situated,  and  from  whose  re- 
venues it  had  derived  its  endowments,  came  at  last  in  1512  to  the 
resolution  of -converting  it  into  a  college  connected  with  the  Uni- 
versity, to  consist,  according  to  the  charter  of  erection,  of  a  princi- 
pal, four  chaplains,  twenty  scholars,  who  were  to  be  instructed  in 
grammar,  music,  and  the  other  liberal  arts,  and  six  other  scholars 
who  had  previously  acquired  a  knowledge  of  the  arts,  and  who, 
under  the  superintendency  of  the  principal,  were  to  devote  their 
attention  to  the  study  of  theology.  Two  of  the  chaplains  were  to 
be  regents  or  professors  in  the  college,  and  one  of  them  was  to  be 
invested  with  the  cure  of  souls,  and  was  to  act  as  a  sacrist,  or  a 
parish  minister.  For  the  maintenance  of  this  institution,  the  whole 
of  the  endowments  of  the  ancient  hospital  were  appropriated. 
These  consisted  of  three  farms,  upper  and  lower  Kenloway  and 
Favvside,  and  63^  acres  of  the  lands  of  Rathelpy,  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicmity  of  the  city  of  St  Andrews ;  together  with  the  feu-du- 
ties  of  that  part  of  the  suburbs  denominated  Argvle,  which  had 
been  erected  on  part  of  these  lands,  and  of  the  tenements  situated 
between  the  Priors  or  Eastburn  Wynd,  and  the  Augustine  monas- 
tery    Of  the  three  farms,  one,  viz.  Fawside,  was  situated  in  the 
parish  of  Crail,  now  of  Kingsbarns,  and  the  other  two,  together 
with  the  lands  and  tenements  alluded  to,  with  the  farm  of  Pikie, 
which  has  been  since  mortified  to  the  city  of  Glasgow,  form  the 


500 


FIFKSIII  Rli 


parish  of  St  Leonards.    The  teinds  parsonage  and  vicarage  of 
these  lands  had  not  been  conveyed  to  llie  ancient  hospital,  but 
they  were  now  incorporated  with  the  revenues  of  the  college  ;  and 
this  circumstance,  when  combined  with  the  fact,  that  one  of  the 
four  chaplains  of  the  college  was  to  be  invested  with  the  cure  of 
souls,  would  seem  to  imply,  that  St  Leonards  now  for  the  first 
time  acquired  the  name  and  character  of  a  parish.    The  parish 
thus  constituted  had  its  sacrist  or  curate,  who  was  one  of  the  chap- 
lains of  St  Leonards  College,  till  the  period  of  the  Reformation. 
When  that  event  took  place,  many  of  the  parish  ministers  in  Scot- 
land continued  to  adhere  to  the  Popish  tenets,  and  being  in  con- 
sequence' ejected,  their  parishes  became  destitute  of  pastors.  The 
expedient  to  which  the  church  and  the  constituted  authorities  had 
recourse,  to  supply  this^deficiency,  was  to  place  two  or  three  con- 
tiguous parishes  under  the  charge  of  one  minister,  till  a  more 
ample  supply  should  be  obtained.    The  parishioners  of  St  Leo- 
nards being  thus  situated,  were  placed  under  the  charge  of  the 
minister  of  St  Andrews;  and  this  arrangement  continued  to  sub- 
sist for  about  thirty  years,  when  Mr  Robert  Wilkie,  minister  of 
St  Andrews,  having,  by  advice  of  the  General  Assembly,  been 
appointed  Principal  of  St  Leonards  College,  and  minister  of  the 
parish  of  St  Leonards,  he  was  inducted  into  these  offices,  and  his 
successors  in  the  office  of  principal  have,  with  little  variation,  been 
ever  since  ministers  also  of  St  Leonards'. 

A  part  of  the  parish  of  St  Leonards  hes  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity of  the  city,  and  consists  of  several  detached  allotments,  sur- 
rounded  by  the  town  parish  ;  and  the  remainder,  consisting  of  the 
two  Kenloways  or  Kenlies,  and  Pikie,  are  most  inconveniently  si- 
tuated, being  from  four  to  five  miles  distant  from  the  parish  church. 
This  latter  division  of  the  parish,  which  is  by  far  the  most  exten- 
sive, though  least  populous,  is  bounded  by  the  parishes  of  St  An- 
drews on  the  north,  and  Kingsbarns,  Crail,  and  Denino  on  the 
east,  south,  and  west  respectively. 

To  the  natural  history  of  the  parish  it  were  unnecessary  to  ad- 
vert, as  the  remarks  which  might  be  made  would  be  merely  a  re- 
petition of  the  statements  exhibited  relative  to  the  Natural  History  | 
of  the  parish  of  St  Andrews,  with  which  it  is  so  closely  connected. 
The  same  remark  is  applicable  to  the  great  bulk  of  the  other  - 
particulars  which  the  "  heads  of  inquiry"  embrace. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
Land-owners. — The  Principal  and  Masters  of  the  United  Col- 


ST  LEONARDS. 


501 


leges  of  St  Salvator  and  St  Leonards  are  the  chief  land-owners  in 
this  parish.  The  only  other  heritor  is  the  city  of  Glasgow,  which 
receives  the  rents  of  the  lands  of  Pikie,  in  consequence  of  a  deed 
of  mortification  by  Scot  of  Scotstarvet.  There  are,  besides,  a  con- 
siderable number  of  feuars ;  but  these  hold  of  the  college  as  su- 
perior, and  pay  to  it  feu-duties  corresponding  to  the  extent  and 
the  value  of  their  allotments. 

Parochial  Begisters.—The  earliest  entry  in  the  parochial  re- 
gisters of  the  parish,  is  of  date  June  28,  1696.  The  register  of 
births  and  marriages  is  extant  from  that  period ;  but  with  regard 
to  the  former,  the  same  remark  is  applicable  which  has  been  made 
in  reference  to  the  register  of  births  for  the  parish  of  St  Andrews, 
namely,  that  it  "is  highly  defective,  many  of  the  parents  neglecting 
to  apply  to  the  session-clerk  to  have  the  names  of  their  children 
enrolled. 

When  the  union  took  place  between  the  Colleges  of  St  Salva- 
tor and  St  Leonards,  the  grounds  and  buildings  connected  with 
one  of  them  were  no  longer  requisite  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  members  of  the  United  College.  Those  belonging  to  St  Leon- 
ards College  were  in  consequence  sold ;  and  the  apartments  in 
which  the  masters  and  students  originally  resided  are  now  divided 
between  two  proprietors,  who,  with  former  occupants,  have  made 
very  considerable  alterations  and  additions  to  the  buildings,  so  as 
to  form  commodious  dwelling-houses. 

in. — Population. 


The  population  residing  in  the  city,  .  266 

suburbs,  .  IGl 

country,  .-  62 

The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  that  are  entered  into 
the  register,  .  .  .  3f- 

marriages,  .  -.  2f 

No  register  is  kept  of  the  deaths. 

The  average  number  of  persons  under  1 5  years  of  age,  .  203 

-    betwixt  13  and  30,  .  100 

30  and  30,  .  125 

30  and  70,  .  49 

upwards  of  70,  .  12 


The  number  of  families  of  independent  fortune  residing  in  the  parish,  4 
proprietors  of  land  residing  within  tlie  parish  of  the  yearly 

value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,  but  whose  lands  are  tiot  in  the  parish,  4 
Number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors  and  widowers,  upwards  of  30  years 

of  age,                      ...  8 

Number  of  unmarried  women  upwards  of  45,                     .  10 

The  number  of  Dissenters  of  all  denominations  in  the  parish  is 
53.  A  few  more  usually  sit  in  the  dissenting  chapels,  but  have 
not  joined  them  as  communicants.    They  urge  that  no  accommo- 


502 


FlFESHIllE. 


dation  has  been  provided  for  them  in  St  Salvator's  Chapel,  where 
the  St  Leonards'  congregation  assemble  for  public  worship. 

There  are  no  blind  nor  deaf  and  dumb  persons  in  the  parish ; 
but  there  are  two  persons  in  a  fatuous  state. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agricultui-e. — The  number  of  acres  standard  imperial  measure 
in  the  parish,  which  are  in  a  state  of  cultivation,  is  654  ;  and  the 
waste  or  pasture  grounds  amount  to  327  acres.  No  part  of  the 
latter,  it  is  understood,  could  be  profitably  kept  in  tillage.  There 
are  no  plantations  in  the  parish. 

Rent  of  Land. — The  average  rent  per  imperial  acre  of  the  ar- 
able land  in  that  district  of  the  parish,  which  is  most  remote  from 
the  church,  is  about  L.  1,  IDs. ;  but  the  district  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  city  yields  an  average  rent  of  L.  4  Sterling  per  acre.  The 
former  is  partly  enclosed,  and  the  farm- buildings  and  enclosures 
are  in  a  good  state  of  repair ;  but  the  latter  is  not  enclosed,  being 
rented  by  the  citizens  and  others  in  small  allotments. 

Quarries.  —  The  distant  district  abounds  in  free  or  sandstone, 
of  which  several  quarries  have  been  opened,  and  the  stone,  though 
soft,  has  been  found  to  be  durable,  and  adapted  to  the  various  pur- 
poses of  the  builder. 

Produce. — -The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows : 


Grain  of  all  kinds,  .                    L.  1450 

Potatoes  and  turnips,  .  600 

Pasture  grass,  .                  .  180 

Hay  and  cut  grass,  .                .  230 

Gardens  and  orchards,  .  100 

All  other  produce,  .               .  50 


Total  yearly  value,        L.  2610 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Ecclesiastical  State. — The  original  church  of  the  parish  of  St 
Leonards  was  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  college  of 
the  same  name,  and  for  more  than  two  centuries  it  was  occupied 
by  the  parishioners.  About  seventy  years  ago  it  required  exten- 
sive repairs,  the  expense  of  which  would  have  fallen  chiefly  on  the 
funds  of  the  United  College.  A  few  years  prior  to  this  period, 
however,  the  Colleges  of  St  Salvator  and  St  Leonards  had  been 
incorporated  by  Act  of  Parliament ;  and  to  St  Salvator's  there 
had  been  attached  by  the  founder  a  large  chapel,  which  was  still 
in  a  good  state  of  repair,  and  was  now  the  property  of  the  United 

College  ;  and  it  became  a  subject  of  discussion  among  the  masters, 

4 


ST  LEONAHDS. 


503 


whether  it  would  be  more  eligible  to  repair  the  old  parish  church, 
or  to  fit  up  the  Chapel  of  St  Salvator's  for  the  use  of  the  parish- 
ioners ?  The  latter  was  situated,  indeed,  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
parish,  and  within  the  town  parish ;  but  the  distance  between  the 
two  was  so  small,  that  it  was  a  matter  of  but  little  importance  to  the 
parishioners  whether  they  were  accommodated  in  the  one  or  in  the 
other.  The  majority  of  the  masters  favoured  the  idea  of  the  pro- 
posed transference,  as  the  other  buildings  of  St  Salvator's  College 
were  already  appropriated  for  the  use  of  the  United  College  ;  and 
the  sanction  of  the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews  to  the  measure  hav- 
ing been  obtained,  the  chapel  was  fitted  up  so  as  to  accommodate 
the  parishioners  of  St  Leonards,  and  the  students  attending  the 
United  College ;  and  for  their  use  it  continues  to  be  appropriated. 
The  walls  of  the  old  parish  church  still  remain  in  a  tolerable  state 
of  preservation ;  but  the  tower  and  spire  connected  with  it  were 
pulled  down  soon  after  the  transference.  The  area  of  the  church 
formed  a  parallelogram  of  about  70  feet  long  by  18  wide  within 
the  walls ;  and  the  style  of  its  architecture  was  neat  and  appro- 
priate. The  interior  still  contains  several  monuments,  inserted 
into  the  wall,  to  the  memory  of  individuals  connected  with  St 
Leonard's  College,  in  the  earlier  periods  of  its  existence  ;  but  the 
most  elegant  of  them  has  been  constructed  of  a  species  of  stone 
but  ill  fitted  for  encountering  the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather,  and 
is  fast  hastening  to  a  state  of  utter  decay. 

The  greater  part  of  the  population  of  St  Leonards  being  re- 
sident in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  the  present  substitute 
for  the  parish  church  cannot  be  regarded  as  inconveniently  situat- 
ed. But  as  a  distance  of  between  four  and  five  miles  intervenes 
between  this  portion  of  the  parish  and  the  distant  district,  it  is  evi- 
dent that  this  latter  division  of  the  parishioners  must  feel,  that 
they  reside  at  a  very  inconvenient  distance  from  the  Church. 
This,  however,  is  an  evil  to  which  a  remedy  cannot  well  be  applied, 
so  long  as  they  are  connected  with  the  parish  of  St  Leonards,  as 
no  site  for  a  parish  church  could  be  devised  that  would  be  suit- 
ed to  them,,  in  common  with  the  other  parishioners. 

The  chapel  of  St  Salvator's,  in  which  the  parishioners  of  St 
Leonards  now  assemble  for  public  worship,  was  erected  by  Bishop 
Kennedy  about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century.  The  style  of  its 
architecture  is  the  Gothic,  and  it  must  have  originally  been  a  very 
elegant  edifice.  It  appears  to  have  been  stripped  of  many  of  its 
ornaments  of  a  superstitious  aspect,  at  the  period  of  the  Reforma- 


504 


FIFESHIRE. 


tion,  and  to  have  suffered  still  more,  so  far  as  its  architectural 
beauty  and  character  are  concerned,  about  seventy  years  ago, 
when  it  received  extensive  alterations  and  repairs.  In  its  original 
state,  it  was  an  edifice  of  107  feet  in  length  by  29  in  breadth 
within  the  walls.  But  as  this  formed  an  area,  of  larger  dimen- 
sions than  the  congregation  of  St  Leonards  required,  a  partition 
wall  was  erected,  by  which  a  considerable  space  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity was  cut  off ;  so  that  the  length  of  the  Chapel,  as  it  is  now 
employed  for  public  worship,  is  reduced  to  78  feet.  It  is  at 
present  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  The  area  affords  accommodation 
for  360  persons,  and  a  gallery,  which  was  erected  for  the  use  of  the 
professors  and  students,  accommodates  120  more.  The  seating  of 
the  area,  after  furnishing  the  requisite  accommodation  for  the  pro- 
fessors' families,  is  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  parishioners,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  pews,  which  are  rented. 

The  ministers  of  St  Leonards  had  no  manse  nor  glebe,  nor 
any  allowance  for  either,  until  within  these  few  years,  when  a 
glebe,  and  ground  for  the'  site  of  a  manse,  offices,  and  garden,  were 
designed  for  them  by  the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews,  from  church 
lands  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city,  and  belonging  to  the  United  Col- 
lege. But  the  present  incumbent,  at  whose  request  the  designation 
took  place,  instead  of  taking  possession  of  the  ground,  which  was 
under  lease,  has  agreed  during  his  incumbency  to  accept  of  a 
compensation.  The  glebe  is,  of  course,  of  the  legal  extent  of  four 
acres,  and  half  an  acre  added  for  the  site  of  the  manse,  offices,  and 
garden;  the  whole  yields  a  rent  of  L.  18  to  the  College. 

The  stipend  attached  to  the  charge  of  St  Leonards,  until  with- 
in these  twenty-five  years,  consisted  only  of  5  chalders  of  victual, 
not,  however,  derived  from  the  teinds  of  the  lands  in  the  parish  con- 
nected with  the  college,  these  having  been  originally  conveyed  to 
it  cum  decimis  inclusis,  but  from  the  revenues  of  the  priory  of  St 
Andrews,  in  terms  of  an  old  allocation  by  the  Commissioners  of 
Plat,  at  the  period  when  the  Duke  of  Lennox  was  commendator 
of  the  priory.  The  incumbent  receives,  in  addition,  the  rent  of 
half  an  acre  of  land,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  mor- 
tified, nearly  two  centuries  ago,  for  the  use  of  the  ministers  of  St 
Leonards.  When  the  act  of  Parliament  assigning  a  grant  for  the 
agumentation  of  the  small  livings  in  Scotland  passed  in  1810,  a 
sum  was  appropriated  to  the  minister  of  St  Leonards  from  that 
fund  to  raise  the  stipend  to  L.  150  Sterling  :  but  the  grain  was 
then  rated  at  a  much  higher  conversion  than  the  prices  of  late 


FORGAN. 


505 


years,  so  that  now  there  is  a  corresponding  defalcation  in  the 
amount  of  the  stipend. 

Education. — No  parochial  school  has  at  any  period  existed  in 
this  parish.  The  young  persons  residing  in  those  districts  which 
are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city  receive  their  education  at  the  city 
schools ;  and  those  residing  in  the  distant  district,  at  the  school  of 
Boarhills,  from  which  they  are  distant  about  one  mile  only. 

Poor  and  Poor's  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons  re- 
ceiving parochial  aid  is  15,  and  the  weekly  allowance  made  to 
them  is  L.  1,  2s.,  being  at  an  average  nearly  Is.  6d.  each.  In  ad- 
dition to  this  regular  payment,  amounting  to  L.  57,  4s.  annually, 
occasional  demands,  to  the  amount  of  about  L.  20  annually,  have 
been  suppHed,  so  that  the  average  amount  of  expenditure  during 
the  last  five  years  is  L.  78.  To  meet  this  the  receipts  have  been  ; 
average  annual  collection  at  church  door,  L.  47,  15s.  8d. ;  ave- 
rage annual  rent  of  three  acres  of  land,  L.  8,  7s. ;  interest  of  a 
sum  in  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  17s.  5d. ;  part  of  said  sum  drawn 
from  bank  annually,  L.  21 ;  total  L.  78,  Os.  Id. 

In  1831,  the  money  in  the  bank  amounted  to  L.  105,  but  it  is 
now  totally  expended ;  and  unless  means  can  be  devised,  either 
for  diminishing  the  rate  of  expenditure,  or  for  increasing  the  an- 
nual amount  of  the  funds,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  recourse 
to  an  assessment,  either  voluntary  or  legal,  to  enable  the  kirk-ses- 
sion to  meet  the  demands  against  them. 

December  1837,  revised  February  1838. 


PARISH  OF  FORGAN. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  CHARLES  NAIRN,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name.—Tms  parish  is  named  Forgan  or  St  Phillans.  The 
former  of  these,  which  in  earlier  periods  was  written  Forgun,  For- 
gon,  and  Forgund,  is  supposed  to  be  a  Saxon  word  signifying\/»?'e- 
fjround.  The  conjecture  is,  to  a  certain  extent,  justified  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  ground  which,  from  a  considerable  elevation  aloug 
the  banks  of  the  Tay,  falls  with  beautifully  sloping  banks  toward. 


506 


FIFESUIUE. 


the  south.  When  or  for  what  reason  the  alternative  name  St 
Phillan  was  added,  is  not  known. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  parish,  which  is  of  an  ohlong- 
figure,  is  nearly  6  miles  long  and  a  little  more  than  2  broad. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  river  Tay ;  on  the  west,  by  the 
parishes  of  Balmerino  and  Kilmany;  on  the  south,  by  Leuchars 
and  Logie ;  and  on  the  east,  by  Ferry-Port-on- Craig. 

Topograjjliical  Appearances. — The  general  asjiect  is  highly  pleas- 
ing, from  the  irregular  and  undulating  appearance  of  the  ground. 
The  only  eminences  that  have  received  the  name  of  hills  are  those  of 
St  Fort  and  Newton,  the  greatest  altitude  of  which  above  the  Tay 
is  about  300  feet.  There  are  several  valleys  or  straths,  the  largest 
of  which  commences  at  a  tract  of  flat  land  in  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish,  and  forms,  with  a  slight  interruption,  the  southern 
boundary,  until  it  reaches  the  most  westerly  district,  where  it  bends 
northward,  and  forms  the  west  boundary  at  the  Tay.  Along  this 
strath,  there  were  several  pieces  of  marshy  ground  or  mires,  all  of 
which  have  been  drained  and  brought  under  cultivation  since  the 
last  Statistical  Account. 

The  shore  of  the  Tay,  which  extends  nearly  four  miles  on  the 
north  side  of  the  parish,  is  covered  with  gravel  or  large  stones, 
above  sleech  or  clay  near  high  water-mark,  and  at  low  water-mark 
it  is  entirely  sleech  or  clay.  The  coast  is  uniformly  of  a  bold  or 
rocky  nature,  averaging  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  above  the  adjacent 
shores.  Wormit  Bay,  where  the  coast  is  more  flat,  forms  the 
western  extremity  of  the  parish  ;  besides  which,  there  are  creeks  at 
Woodhaven  and  Newport,  where  there  are  small  harbours.  About 
half  a  mile  east  of  Newport,  there  is  a  headland,  which  in  a  very 
ancient  Atlas  is  marked  under  the  name  Skarness.  It  is  now- 
named  Craighead. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  the  parish  is  dry  and  highly  salu- 
brious, which,  in  connection  with  its  favourable  situation  for  bath- 
ing, induces  many  families  to  resort  to  it  in  the  summer  season. 
There  are  numerous  instances  of  longevity.  Few  epidemical  dis- 
eases prevail ;  and  it  is  remarkable,  that  during  the  time  of  Asiatic 
cholera  not  a  single  ease  occurred  in  the  parish,  although  there 
was  an  hourly  communication  with  Dundee,  where  the  disease  was 
general  and  fatal. 

Hydrography. — The  width  of  the  Frith  between  Newport  and 
Dundee  is  one  statute  mile  and  a  little  more  than  a  half,  or  about 
2760  yards.    During  the  ebb-tide,  the  water  is  brackish,  but  dur- 


FORGAN. 


507 


ing  the  flood  it  is  completely  salt.  The  current  is  strong,  ))arti- 
cularly  during  ebb-tide,  when  it  runs  about  four  miles  an  hour. 
Springs  of  excellent  quality  are  found  in  abundance  throughout 
the  parish. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy— As  forming  part  of  the  extensive 
tract  of  country  that  ranges  from  Alloa  to  the  sea  at  St  Andrews 
and  Ferry-port-on- Craig,  the  district  in  which  this  parish  is  situ- 
ated is  intersected  by  a  series  of  trap  hills  of  various  elevations. 
Sandstone  and  sandstone  conglomerate  form  the  basis ;  and  the 
strata  being  elevated  by  the  intrusion  of  the.  trap,  rest  upon  it  with 
a  general  inclination  to  the  south-east.  The  greater  part  of  the 
parish  consists  of  a  number  of  hills  of  greenstone,  which  is  of  a 
compact  fine-grained  quality,  and  of  a  dark  colour,  from  a  pre- 
ponderance of  augite.  Along  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  rocks  of 
amygdaloidal  greenstone  prevail.  The  base  is  an  irregular,  rather 
friable  and  porous  greenstone,  with  numerous  nodules,  some  com- 
posed of  a  greenish  earth,  others  of  calcareous  crystals,  and  a  great 
proportion  of  quartz,  assuming  the  forms  of  agates,  with  beauti- 
fiil  concentric  lamellar  structure. 

Soil. — The  soil,  being  formed  in  a  great  measure  from  the  de- 
bris of  the  trap  rocks,  is  generally  of  an  excellent  and  fertile  na- 
ture. The  greater  part  is  good  black  loam  and  clayey  earth. 
Some  portions  of  it  being  light  and  gravelly,  are  better  suited  for 
sheep  pasture  than  for  grain  crops.  In  the  diluvial  soil,  particu- 
larly in  the  western  districts  of  the  parish,  there  are  numerous 
transported  masses  of  rock  or  boulders,  consisting  partly  of  frag- 
ments of  the  surrounding  trap  hills,  and  partly  of  primitive  rocks, 
which  must  have  been  conveyed  by  a  powerful  current  from  the 
north-west  or  GramjDian  range. 

II. — Civil  History. 

No  history  of  the  parish  is  known  to  exist ;  and  the  notices  of 
it  in  Sibbald's  History  of  Fife,  and  in  Martin's  Reliquiae  Divi  An- 
dreae,  are  extremely  meagre. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners  are, — 

Henry  Stewart,  Esq.  of  St  Fort,  resident,        valued  rent,  L  2349  6  8  Scotch. 

William  Berry,  Esq.  of  Tayfield,     do.  1082  3  4 

David  Gillespie,  Esq.  of  Kirkton,  non-resident,  711  0  0 

The  Right  Hon.  Lord  Dundas,  Newton,  do.  640  10  0 

Henry  Scrymgeour  Wedderburn,  Esq  of  Wormit,  do.  201  0  0 

John  Hay,  Esq  of  Morton,    do.  164  6  8 

The  estate  of  St  Fort  belonged  for  several  hundred  years,  till 
the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  to  a  family  of  the  name  of 
Nairne,  who,  as  appears  from  Douglas'  Peerage  and  Sibbald's 


508 


FIFESniRK. 


History  of  Fife,  held  various  high  offices  in  the  State.  A  younger 
branch  of  this  family  was  ennobled,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  by 
the  title  of  Lord  Nairne,  which  was  forfeited  at  the  Rebellion  in 
1745,  and  restored  during  the  reign  of  George  the  Fourth.  The 
estate  of  St  Fort,  along  with  several  other  lands  belonging  to  the 
family  of  Nairne,  was  sold  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century ; 
and  since  that  time  all  the  lands  in  the  parish  have  frequently 
changed  owners,  with  the  exception  of  the  small  property  of  Mor- 
ton, which  has  continued  in  the  same  family  for  a  long  period. 

Antiquities. — There  are  several  cairns  or  tumuli,  composed  of 
small  stones,  in  conspicuous  situations  of  the  parish,  but  they  have 
not  been  thoroughly  explored.  A  few  urns  of  rude  workmanship 
were  found,  a  few  years  ago,  in  cutting  the  public  road  at  Newport. 
They  were  injured  by  the  workmen,  and  their  contents,  if  they 
had  any,  were  not  ascertained.  It  is  not  improbable  that  a  proper 
examination  of  these  cairns  miffht  bring  to  liofht  some  interesting 
relics,  in  reference  to  the  contests  between  the  Danes  and  Picts 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Tay. 

Parochial  Registersi — The  parochial  registers  do  not  extend  far- 
ther back  than  1701. 

Modem  Buildings. — On  the  estate  of  St  Fort,  there  has  been 
recently  erected  a  very  spacious  and  handsome  house  in  the  Eliza- 
bethan form  of  architecture.  The  mansion  house  of  Tayfield, 
several  years  ago,  received  large  additions,  in  a  similar  character 
of  building,  so  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  an  entirely  new 
structure,  and  from  its  delightful  situation  on  the  banks  of  the  Tay, 
it  commands  a  very  extensive  and  beautiful  view  of  the  river  and 
country  to  the  west. 

III. — Population. 

The  population  amounted  in  1755  to  751 

1793      .  875 
By  the  Parlimentary  census  for  1801  it  was  916 

1811  898 
1821  .  937 
1831    .  1090 

This  increase  of  population  in  the  parish  is  obviously  caused 
by  its  contiguity  to,  and  ready  communication  with,  the  town  of 
Dundee,  and  it  is  highly  probable  that  the  thriving  village  of 
Newport  will  ere  long  become  a  large  and  populous  town. 

The  village  population  is  somewhat  more  than  -  600 

Total  numher  of  families,  -  -  205 

Of  which  employed  in  agriculture  nearly,  -  90 

From  40  to  50  are  artisans  or  connected  with  trade,  and  not 
more  than  10  are  engaged  in  seaftiring  occupations. 


FOUGAN. 


509 


The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  was,  .  23 

deaths,  .  .  .  22 

marriages,  .  .  7 

Character  of  the  People. — The  parishioners  are  in  general  quiet 
and  orderly  in  their  deportment.  Their  houses  are  for  the  most 
part  clean  and  well  kept — while  some  of  the  cottages  are  distin- 
guished for  their  neat  and  tasteful  appearance. 

IV. — Industry. 

The  parish  contains  about  5000  acres,  nearly  4000  of  which  are  under  cultivation. 
Of  unarable  land  there  are  about    -  250 
plantations,  -  .  360 

grass  parks,  -  .  370 

Plantations. —  Since  the  last  Statistical  Account,  there  has  been 
a  great  increase  to  the  plantations  on  the  estates  of  St  Fort  and 
Ttiyfield.  There  is  still,  however,  a  considerable  extent  of  rocky  and 
hillygroimd  that  might  be  planted  with  great  advantage.  The  trees 
are  chiefly  of  the  fir  tribe— but  the  soil  is  well  adapted  for  the 
growth  of  such  hard  wood  as  the  oak,  ash,  chestnut  and  beech. 
There  are  several  old  trees  at  St  Fort  and  Newton.  In  regard  to  size, 
there  are  none  deserving  of  notice,  with  the  exception  of  three  yews 
in  the  garden  at  Kirkton,  which  probably  are  not  to  be  equalled 
by  any  in  Scotland.  The  management  in  regard  to  thinning  and 
pruning  is  excellent. 

Rent  of  Land. — The  annual  rent  of  land  in  the  parish  is  from 
L.  1  to  L.  3  per  acre.  Some  near  the  Tay,  from  its  local  ad- 
vantages, is  let  at  L.  4  per  Scotch  acre.  The  general  average  is 
about  L.  1,  15s.  The  rent  of  grazing  is  L.  2,  10s.  per  ox  or 
cow,  and  10s.  per  ewe. 

Rate  of  rFa^es.— Labourers  earn  from  Is.  6d.  to  Is.  8d.  per 
day,  and  have  almost  constant  employment.  Masons,  carpenters, 
and  other  handicraft  receive  from  14s.  to  18s.  per  week.  The 
wages  of  ploughmen,  paid  partly  in  money  and  grain,  vary  from 
L.  20  to  L.  28  per  annum,— a  number  of  the  farm-servants  being 
allowed  to  keep  cows. 

The  prices  of  all  produce  are  regulated  by  the  Dundee,  Cupar, 
and  St  Andrews  markets,  where  it  is  sold.  In  general,  they  are 
not  so  high  as  those  obtained  at  Kirkcaldy,  where  there  is  a 
stock  market,  although  the  grain  grown  in  the  north  of  Fife  is  of 
excellent  quality. 

Husbandry.— 'The  tenants  in  this  parish  are  distinguished  by 
their  mtelhgence,  enterprise,  and  skill.  They  readily  and  spirited- 
ly avail  themselves  of  any  improvements  that  may  be  introduced 
into  the  methods  of  cultivating  the  land,  or  of  improving  the  breed 


510 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  cattle.  The  system  of  husbandry  pursued  is  the  rotation  of 
five  and  six  years.* 

The  breeds  of  cattle  most  encouraged  are  the  Fife,  Angus, 
Ayrshire,  and  Teeswater.  For  the  last  of  these  the  pasture  is  not 
considered  to  be  very  suitable.  The  sheep  are  of  the  Leicester 
and  Cheviot  breeds. 

The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years,  and  from  the 
respectability  of  the  farmers,  it  may  be  inferred  that  these  are  fa- 
vourable to  the  occupier. 

The  state  of  the  farm-buildings  is  in  general  excellent.  Some 
of  the  steadings  have  been  rebuilt,  improved,  and  enlarged  within 
these  few  years.  A  number  of  inclosures,  chiefly  of  stone  and 
lime  walls,  have  been  made  of  late  years  by  Mr  Berry  of  Tay- 
field,  upon  whose  property,  there  are  also  several  fields  enclosed 
by  hedge  and  ditch.  On  the  estate  of  St  Fort,  there  are  also  a 
number  of  enclosures.  But  there  is  still  a  considerable  deficiency 
in  this  respect  throughout  the  parish. 

Quarries. — The  quarries  in  the  parish  are  all  whinstone.  They 
are  wrought  for  building  houses  and  enclosures.  The  freestone 
is  brought  either  from  Angus,  or  from  the  quarries  on  the  south 
of  the  river  Eden,  a  distance  of  about  nine  miles.  The  lime  is  also 
brought  by  sea,  or  carted  from  the  lime  hills  at  a  still  greater  dis- 
tance than  the  freestone. 

Fisheries. — There  are  several  salmon  fisheries  in  the  parish. 
They  are  carried  on  by  net  and  coble, — a  mode  of  fishing  which  is 
found  to  be  very  ineffectual  in  estuaries,  so  that  the  rents  are  of 
small  amount,  probably  not  exceeding  L.  150  yearly.  About  the 
year  1797,  stake-nets  were  introduced  into  the  Frith,  when  in  one 
season  7000  salmon  were  caught  with  a  single  net,  a  quantity 
nearly  equal  to  a  fourth  part  of  the  previous  produce  of  the  whole 
Frith  and  river.  This  immediately  alarmed  the  proprietors  of 
fisheries  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  Tay,  who  had  previously  enjoyed 
a  monopoly  of  the  trade,  and  they  accordingly  brought  an  action 
before  the  Supreme  Court,  to  have  the  new  mode  of  fishing  put 
down.  This  they  accomplished  after  a  litigation  which  lasted 
till  the  year  1812,  when  it  was  decided  that  the  use  of  stake-nets 
in  friths  and  estuaries  fell  under  the  prohibition  of  certain  Scotch 
statutes.    It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  a  question  involving  so 

•  The  sheep  husbandry  has  been  carried  on  to  considerable  advantage  by  some  of 
the  farmers  for  improving  their  light  lands,  particularly  oh  the  farms  of  Kirkton  aud 
Newton. 


FORGAN.  511 

deeply  the  interests  of  those  concerned  should  have  been  determin- 
ed not  according  to  the  merits  of  the  particular  mode  of  fishing, 
(as  was  distinctly  admitted  both  in  the  Court  of  Session  and  in 
the  House  of  Lords,)  but  according  to  the  construction  put  upon 
certain  statutory  words  in  the  interpretation  of  the  ancient  laws 
regarding  fisheries.  In  these  circumstances,  it  is  remarkable,  that 
hitherto  no  united  efforts  have  been  made  by  the  proprietors  along 
the  estuary  of  the  Tay,  (in  conjunction  with  others  similarly  situ- 
ated,) to  bring  their  case  in  reference  to  their  fisheries  before  the 
Legislature,  and  so  to  have  it  ascertained — not  what  was  the  law 
at  a  remote  period,  when  the  subject  was  little  attended  to,  and 
but  imperfectly  understood,  but  what  ought  to  be  the  law  for  carry- 
ing on  these  fisheries  in  a  way  that  would  at  once  secure  the  rights 
of  private  parlies,  and  confer  the  largest  amount  of  benefit  on  the 
public.  From  the  evidence  that  was  given  before  a  Committee  of 
the  House  of  Commons,  in  the  years  1824  and  1825,  it  appears 
that  chiefly  in  the  months  of  August,  September,  and  October, 
the  salmon  ascend  the  frith  for  the  purpose  of  spawning  in  the 
river,  and  that  they  keep  the  deep  water  of  the  mid  channel  as 
they  pass  through  the  estuary.  They  descend  in  the  months  of 
February,  March,  and  April,  when  the  helts  or  spent  fish  with 
the  fry  keep  in  deep  water  ;  the  clean  fish  roaming  at  large  through- 
out the  shallow  and  deep  water. 

The  salmon  that  are  caught  are  either  sent  to  Dundee,  or  pack- 
ed in  ice,  and  exported  by  the  Dundee  steam  ships  to  the  London 
market. 

It  may  be  remarked,  that,  about  thirty  years  ago,  a  large  shoal 
of  herrings  made  its  appearance,  in  the  winter  season,  opposite  to 
Newport,  which  employed  a  number  of  boats  and  other  vessels 
during  its  continuance  ;  but  there  has  not  been  any  shoal  known 
in  the  Tay  since  that  time. 

Produce. — The  average  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish  after  deduction  for  seed,  &c.  is  nearly  as  follows : 


Produce  of  grain,  .  L.  10,360 

Potatoes  and  turnips,  .  .  3,900 

Hay,                     .  .  .  630 

Pasture,               .  ..  .  ],250 

Thinning  and  felling  of  woods,  .  200 

Fisheries,                  .  '  ,                .  150 


L.  16,490 

Manufactures. — There  is  some  weaving  in  the  parish,  chiefly 
of  the  fabric  suited  to  the  Dundee  manufacture  of  coarse  linen, 
&c.  The  number  of  individuals  thus  employed  does  not  exceed  20. 


512 


FIFESHIRE. 


V. — Parochiai,  Economy. 

The  nearest  makct-town  is  Dundee,  which  is  only  separated 
from  the  parish  by  the  Tay.  Cupar,  which  is  also  a  market-town, 
is  distant  about  eleven  miles.  Both  of  them  are  frequented  by 
the  farmers,  weekly,  for  the  sale  of  produce. 

The  parish  enjoys  the  benefit  of  a  ready  communication  with 
other  parts  of  the  country  both  by  land  and  water  carriage.  There 
is  a  post-office  at  Newport,  and  there  are  two  daily  coaches  com- 
municating with  Edinburgh,  besides  a  daily  mail-coach  lately  es- 
tablished. 

Roads. — The  principal  turnpike  road  betwixt  Edinburgh  and 
the  north-east  of  Scotland,  by  the  ferry  at  Newport,  runs  through 
the  parish  for  about  two  miles  and  a  half.  The  other  roads  are, 
1.  the  old  turnpike  to  Woodhaven,  the  length  of  which  within  the 
parish  is  about  three  miles ;  2.  another  turnpike  road,  which  joins 
it  about  one  mile  and  a  half  from  Woodhaven,  leading  by  Kil- 
many  to  New  Inn,  length  within  the  parish  two  miles  and  a  half. 
3.  the  turnpike  road  from  Cupar  to  Ferry-port-on- Craig,  length 
about  a  mile ;  4.  a  turnpike  road  made  a  few  years  ago  betwixt 
Ferry-port-on- Craig  and  Newport,  length  in  parish  one  mile  and  a 
half  ;  and,  5.  a  road  of  communication  betwixt  Newport  and 
Woodhaven,  length  one  mile.  There  are  also  two  parish  or  sta- 
tute labour  roads  connecting  the  principal  or  turnpike  roads.  These 
are  maintained  in  good  order,  particularly  the  great  road  which  in- 
tersects the  parish  into  nearly  equal  parts,  and  which  is  always  in 
the  best  condition. 

Ferries. — Till  the  year  1822,  there  had  been,  from  time  imme- 
morial, two  public  ferries  in  the  parish  communicating  with  Dundee 
across  the  Tay,  viz.  one  at  Woodhaven,  and  another  at  New- 
port, about  a  mile  farther  east.  These  ferries  were  supplied  by 
sail  boats  of  a  small  and  inconvenient  description. 

About  the  year  1790,  a  new  turnpike  road  was  made  to  the 
ferry  of  Woodhaven,  which,  therefore,  became  for  some  time  the 
principal  ferry,  and  commanded  the  greatest  resort  of  passengers, 
&c.  But  about  the  year  1806,  by  the  exertions  of  the  late  Mr 
Berry  and  his  son,  the  present  proprietor  of  Tayfield,  another 
turnpike  road  was  made  communicating  with  that  betwixt  Wood- 
haven and  Cupar,  at  a  point  distant  about  four  miles  from  New- 
port. In  consequence  of  this  and  of  the  communication  with 
Dundee  by  Newport  being  shorter  and  more  convenient,  the 
thoroughfare  began  gradually  to  change,  so  as  at  length  to  make 


FORGAN. 


513 


Newport  the  principal  place  of  resort  for  those  travelling  to  the 
north-east. 

In  the  year  1807,  the  attention  of  the  counties  of  Fife  and 
Forfar  was  directed  to  the  risk  and  inconvenience  connected  with 
the  Ferry  across  the  Tay.    At  that  period,  there  were  25  boats 
on  the  passage,  manned  by  upwards  of  100  men  and  boys.  But 
these  boats  and  crews  were  found  to  be  alike  unsuitable  for  the 
safety  and  accommodation  of  the  public  ;  and  as  upon  investigation 
it  was  found  that  the  ferry  produced  a  revenue  adequate,  not  only 
for  the  maintenance  of  a  better  system,  but  for  providing  funds  for 
the  erection  of  suitable  piers  and  landing-places  adapted  to  all 
states  of  the  tide,  an  Act  of  Parliament  was  obtained  in  1819, 
constituting  the  Justices  of  the  Peace  and  Commi  sioners  of  Sup- 
ply in  the  two  counties  of  Fife  and  Forfar,  with  some  official  per- 
sons, trustees  for  erection  of  piers,  and  otherwise  improving  and 
regulating  the  ferry.    Soon  after  this  act  had  been  obtained,  the 
trustees  were  induced  to  direct  their  attention  to  the  advantage  of 
substituting  a  steam-boat  in  place  of  the  numerous  sail-boats  by 
which  the  ferry  had  been  previously  maintained,  and,  after  care- 
ful inquiries,  they  decided  upon  making  the  experiment  with  a 
double  or  twin  steam-boat,  such  as  had  been  in  use  on  the 
American  rivers,  and  also  at  Hamburgh,  and  on  the  Mersey,  near 
Liverpool.    A  vessel  of  this  description  was  accordingly  built  un- 
der their  direction,  at  an  expense  of  betwixt  L.  4000  and  L.  5000, 
and  placed  on  the  ferry  about  the  end  of  the  year  182].  This 
vessel  was  made  to  ply  alternately  from  Dundee  to  Woodhaven 
and  Newport,  but,  as  this  place  was  found  to  be  very  inconvenient 
for  passengers,  it  was  resolved,  in  July  1822,  that  the  boat  should 
call  at  Newport  only.  In  consequence  of  this  arrangement,  a  great 
advantage  immediately  arose  to  the  public,  and  the  intercourse 
rapidly  increased;  but  as  the  trustees  were  bound  to  maintain  a 
separate  ferry  at  Woodhaven,  a 'new  Act  of  Parliament  was  ap- 
plied for  and  obtained  in  1822,  by  which  the  trustees  were  autho- 
rized to  substitute  one  landing-place,  and  to  erect  piers  at  New- 
port and  Dundee,  for  the  purposes  of  the  ferry.    Very  complete 
ferry  harbours  were  accordingly  erected  at  these  places,  and  an 
additional  double  or  twin  steam-boat  was  procured.   So  that  from 
havmg  been,  as  it  was  at  the  date  of  the  last  Statistical  Account 
of  the  parish,  one  of  the  worst  and  most  dangerous,  it  now  ranks 
among  the  safest,  most  expeditious,  and  convenient  ferries  in  the 
kingdom.    Besides  the  steam-boat,  which  during  the  day  affords 

FIFE. 


514 


FIFESHIRE. 


a  passage  hourly  from  each  side,  there  are  kept  a  large  sail-boat 
and  a  pinnace  and  yawl,  with  crews  at  each  station  ready  for  the 
acconfimodation  of  the  public,  when  required.  About  two  years 
ago,  the  trustees  found  it  expedient  to  let  the  ferry  for  five  years, 
and  it  is  now  maintained  by  the  lessees,  who  have  since  placed  upon 
it  a  single  steam-boat  of  sixty  horse  power,  which  is  a  greater 
steam  force  than  those  formerly  in  use.  The  lessees,  besides  main- 
taining the  ferry  in  terms  of  the  regulations  of  the  trustees,  are 
bound  to  pay  a  rent  of  L.  2200  a  year,  out  of  which,  interest  at 
3  per  cent,  is  paid  on  the  large  debt  of  L.  40,000  incurred  in  the 
ferry  improvements.  The  remainder  of  the  rent  goes  towards  the 
extinction  of  the  debt. 

For  the  year  ending  31st  December  1834,  being  the  year  pre- 
vious to  that  on  which  the  ferry  was  let,  the  following  is  an  ab- 
stract of  the  number  of  passengers,  cattle,  horses,  &c.,  which  were 
conveyed  across  the  ferry  : — 

Passengers,  .  .         86,607       Cattle,  ,  .         .  4,598 

Four-wheeled  carriages,      .  268       Sheep  and  lambs,  .  11,911 

Gigs,  .  .  ,  578       Carts  of  goods,  .  .  2,798 

Horses,  .  .  3,794       Barrels  bulk  of  goods,  .  3,375 

Carts,  .  .  .  3,727 

The  following  is  the  state  of  the  revenue  for  each  month  of  the 
same  year : — 

January,            .            L.  324  12    4       July,          .  .        L.481  15  9 

February,          .                315    8    0       August,  .          .        520    9  2 

March,           ,          .         350  12  11        September,  .              448    5  0 

April,              .           .       383    8    9       October,  .          .       442    9  0 

May,          .          .            418  16  11       November,  .              364    6  4 

June,              .           .        470    0    0       December,  .       .           324    1  3 
Making  a  total  amount  of  L.  4844,  5s.  5d. 

It  may  be  important  to  observe,  in  regard  to  the  above  state- 
ment, as  illustrating  the  beneficial  results  of  affording  good  accom- 
modation to  the  public,  that  since  the  improvements  of  a  steam- 
boat and  low-water  piers  were  introduced,  the  number  of  passen- 
gers has  been  increased  by  about  20,000,  and  the  amount  of  re- 
venue has  been  very  nearly  doubled. 

Harbours. — The  harbours  of  Woodhaven  and  Newport  are 
the  private  properties  of  Mr  Stewart  of  St  Fort,  and  Mr  Berry  of 
Tayfield.  They  can  accommodate  vessels  of  from  100  to  150 
tons  burden,  and  are  kept  in  good  order.  They  answer  the  pur- 
poses of  exporting  the  produce  of  the  neighbouring  country,  and 
of  importing  lime,  coal,  and  other  necessaries.  The  ferry  harbour 
at  Newport,  which  is  the  property  of  the  ferry  trustees,  is  a  splen- 
did erection.  It  is  350  feet  long,  and  60  wide,  with  a  carriage- 
way on  each  side,  and  with  a  depth  of  five  feet  water  at  low  water 


FORGAN.  515 

of  spring  tides.  This  work  was  designed  by  the  late  Sir  Thomas 
Telford. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  situated  in  a  most  beautiful 
and  sequestered  spot — but  being  at  the  south-east  extremity  of  the 
parish,  it  is  very  inconvenient  for  the  population  in  general,  and 
■  particularly  for  those  resident  in  the  villages  along  the  banks  of 
the  Tay,  from  whom  it  is  distant  from  three  to  four  miles.  The 
date  of  its  erection  is  not  known.  It  formed  one  of  the  priory 
kirks  belonging  to  St  Andrews,  and  was  built,  according  to  tra- 
dition, in  its  present  site,  for  the  special  accommodation  of  a 
wealthy  lady  resident  in  the  adjoining  mansion-house  of  Kirkton, 
who  contributed  largely  of  her  substance  for  that  purpose.  It  receiv- 
ed a  thorough  repair  in  the  year  1770,  and  was  reseated  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  present  century.  It  is  seated  for  about  350,  so 
that  the  extent  of  church  accommodation  is  greatly  under  what  is 
required  for  the  population.  During  the  last  year,  the  heritors 
have  contemplated  the  erection  of  a  new  church  in  a  more  central 
situation.  And  although  some  difficulty  has  been  experienced  in 
determining  the  site  that  would  prove  most  advantageous  for  the 
parishioners,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that  this  inestimable  boon  will  not 
be  long  withheld,  as  it  is  at  present  impossible  for  the  aged,  the 
infirm,  and  the  young  to  enjoy  the  benefits  of  religious  instruction 
in  the  parish  church. 

There  is  a  meeting  house  near  Newport  in  connection  with  the 
Independents.  The  number  of  families  belonging  to  it  is  about 
10,  and  the  clergyman  is  an  individual  who  is  highly  respected  for 
his  personal  piety,  and  his  anxious  endeavours  to  benefit  the  neigh- 
bourhood in  which  he  resides. 

The  manse,  which  is  in  good  condition,  was  built  in  1803.  The 
stipend  is  15  chalders  and  6  bolls  of  meal  and  barley  in  equal 
proportions.    The  glebe  contains  upwards  of  9  acres. 

Education. — There  are  two  schools  in  the  parish.  The  paro- 
chial teacher's  salary  is  the  maximum,  and  the  branches  taught 
are,  English,  writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  practical  mathema- 
tics, Latin,  and  French.  The  number  of  scholars  is  about  120, 
and  the  fees,  varying  from  2s.  6d.  to  5s.  per  quarter,  amount  to 
L.  24  per  annum. 

A  new  school-house  was  erected  by  the  heritors,  about  ten  years 
ago,  in  a  central  part  of  the  parish,  in  consequence  of  which 
the  attendance  has  greatly  increased.    And  an  excellent  dwelling- 


516 


FIFESHIRE. 


house  for  the  schoolmaster,  with  a  suitable  garden  attached  to  it, 
has  this  year  been  built  adjoining  the  school-house. 

The  other  school  is  kept  by  two  females,  and  is  attended  by 
about  30  very  young  children,  who  are  instructed  in  some  of  the 
elementary  branches  of  education. 

Poor. —  The  average  number  of  regular  paupers  is  from  4  to 
6,  who  receive  a  Aveekly  allowance  of  Is.,  Is.  6d.,  or  2s.  There 
are  from  12  to  15  more,  who  obtain  occasional  relief  in  money, 
and  regular  supplies  oC  meal  and  coals.  The  church-door  col- 
lections have  hitherto  been  sufficient  for  defraying  these  expenses. 
But,  for  several  years,  a  heavy  charge  has  been  incurred  for  the 
support  of  two  lunatics,  who  are  boarded  in  the  Dundee  asylum. 
There  is  also  a  fatuous  young  man,  for  whose  maintenance  a  year- 
ly allowance  is  given  from  the  session  funds. 

Inns. — There  are  two  inns  and  four  ale-houses  in  the  parish. 

Fuel. — The  only  fuel  used  is  coal,  which  is  brought  chiefly  by 
sea,  although  tenants  and  cottars  cart  it  occasionally  from  the  Fife 
coal  hills,  about  ten  miles  distant.  The  prices  of  that  which  is 
sea-borne  is  from  4s.  to  5s.  per  bushel. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

The  more  striking  differences  betwixt  the  present  state  of  the 
parish  and  that  which  existed  at  the  time  when  the  last  Statisti- 
cal Account  was  published,  consist  in  the  improvements  that  have 
been  made  in  agriculture,  which  have  been  such  as  greatly  to  in- 
crease the  produce,  and  to  improve  the  appearance  of  the  lands  ;  in 
the  improved  state  of  the  roads,  some  of  which,  particularly  the 
present  great  road  to  Newport,  were  at  that  time  nearly  impas- 
sable ;  in  the  important  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  regard 
to  the  Dundee  Ferry ;  in  the  large  increase  that  has  been  made 
to  the  village  of  Newport ;  in  the  reclaiming  and  cultivation  of 
much  waste  land ;  and  in  the  plantations  that  have  been  made  on 
the  estates  of  St  Fort  and  Tayfield. 

By  the  number  and  excellent  condition  of  the  roads,  and  the 
ready  means  of  communicating  with  other  parts  of  the  county, 
every  obstacle  to  the  farther  improvement  of  the  district  has  been 
removed ;  and  from  the  character  of  the  present  proprietors  and 
tenants,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  these  advantages  will  be  made 
available  for  advancing  the  prosperity  of  the  parish,  and  promot- 
ing the  welfare  of  its  inhabitants. 


January  1838. 


PARISH  OF  CERES. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  AND  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOSEPH  CRICHTON,  MINISTER.* 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

The  parish  of  Ceres  contains  five  separate  villages,  two  of  vi'hich 
are  of  considerable  extent.  The  most  extensive  of  these  is  Ceres, 
from  which  the  parish  takes  its  name.  The  second  largest  village 
is  named  Craigrothie ;  and  the  third.  Chance  Inn.  Coaltown  was 
once  a  thriving  village,  inhabited  by  colliers. 

Name. — The  name  is  to  be  found  in  ancient  records  written 
Siris,  Cyres,  Cyrus,  Cires  and  Ceres. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  greatest  length  of  this  parish  is 
about  8  statute  miles.  The  breadth  varies  from  half  a  mile  to  4 
miles.  The  river  Eden  runs  along  the  north-west  part  of  the  pa- 
rish for  a  short  way.  The  parishes  of  Kemback,  St  Andrews,  and 
Cameron,  bound  Ceres  towards  the  east;  Kilconquhar  and  Largo 
towards  the  south;  Scoonie,  Kettle,  and  Cults  towards  the  west; 
and  Cupar  towards  the  north.  The  boundaries  between  Cupar 
and  Ceres  are  of  a  most  irregular  kind,  and  the  very  natives  are, 
at  some  places,  puzzled  to  tell  whether  they  are  standing  in  their 
own  parish. 

Climate,  Diseases,  ^-c— The  climate  >  mild,  and  exceedino-jy 
healthful.  The  fogs  that  blow  from  the  German  Ocean  are  here 
removed  or  modified,  and  the  sickly  of  St  Andrews  often  make  a 
salutary  sojourn  m  some  part  of  Ceres,  where  the  east  wind  is  felt 
as  a  pleasant  breeze.  The  people  are,  on  the  whole,  a  healthy  race. 
1  here  are  one  or  two  persons  at  present  in  the  parish,  above  nine- 
ty years  of  age ;  and  in  Craigrothie,  where  there  are  not  many  more 
than  200  mhabitants,  there  died  lately  three  women,  all  of  whom 
were  above  nmety. 

Hydrography.--The  beautiful  and  useful  river  Eden  runs  alono- 
the  north-west  of  the  parish,  for  the  space  of  a  mile  and  a  half! 

*  Drawn  up  by  the  Rev.  George  Cook,  kte  Assistant  to  Mr  Crichton. 


I 


518 


It  once  abounded  with  excellent  trout,  but  their  numbers  are 
now  greatly  diminished ;  and,  whether  from  the  manufactures 
established  on  different  parts  of  the  river,  or  from  the  num- 
bers who  go  forth  to  fish  with  the  natural  flies,  you  nmst  either 
adopt  their  cruel  mode  of  fishing,  or  content  yourself  with  an 
empty  basket.  There  are  several  streams  within  the  parish.  Three 
of  them  are  from  the  east ;  one  from  the  south,  and  one  from  the 
west,  unite  near  the  village  of  Ceres,  and  form  what  is  called 
Ceres  burn.  It  passes  through  the  village,  and  runs  a  mile  and 
a  half,  north-east  through  the  parish,  and  then  enters  the  beautiful 
den  of  Dara,  and  shortly  afterwards  joins  the  Eden.  Ceres  burn, 
though  at  times  an  apparently  harmless  and  insignificant  rivulet, 
occasionally  becomes  a  great  and  dangerous  water.  The  sudden- 
ness of  its  swelling  adds  much  to  the  danger.  It  has  already  wash- 
ed away  one  good  stone  bridge,  *  and  has  threatened  its  successor. 
There  were  once  a  good  many  trout  in  Ceres  burn,  but  there  are 
now  very  few.  Every  part  of  the  parish  is  well  supplied  with  springs 
or  rivulets  of  excellent  water.  Several  springs  are  impregnated 
with  the  quality  of  the  soil  out  of  which  they  arise.  There  is  a 
mineral  spring  on  the  mains  of  Kirklands,  the  property  of  INIr 
Crichton.  It  possesses  valuable  medicinal  qualities;  and,  being 
highly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  acts  as  a  grateful  sti- 
mulant. 

Geology,  Soil,  iSfc. — The  soil  is  of  great  variety.  Along  the 
banks  of  the  Eden,  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  parish,  it  is  light 
and  sandy,  and  chiefly  lies  upon  a  freestone  rock.  The  greater 
part  of  the  parish  is  a  deep  cold  earth,  lying  upon  whinstone  rock, 
limestone  rock,  or  tilly  clay.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village 
of  Ceres,  the  soil  is  a  free  earth,  lying  upon  gravel.  The  mosses 
and  moors,  which  are  mentioned  in  the  former  Statistical  Account, 
are  in  great  part  rendered  arable.  Along  the  north  side  of  the 
parish,  there  is  abundance  of  freestone  rock.  Whinstone  rock 
abounds  on  the  south  side.  There  are  several  quarries,  which  are 
very  valuable  either  for  the  purposes  of  building  or  supplying  the 
roads  with  metal.  There  is  a  quarry  at  Pitscottie,  to  which  many 
of  the  feuars  in  Ceres  have  free  access  in  building  their  houses. 
There  are  quarries  also  at  Kinninmonth  and  Craigrothie,  which 
are  very  valuable  for  the  purposes  of  building.  On  the  farm  of 
Newbigging  of  Craighall,  there  is  a  range  of  basaltic  rock  or  pil- 

*  There  is  a  very  old  and  iiii n  ow  bridge  over  this  water.  It  stands  adjacent  jto 
the  present,  and  may  likely  outlive  it,  as  it  outlived  its  predecessor.  Archbisliop 
Sharpc  crossed  this  old  bridge  in  his  last  and  fatal  journey  from  Edinburgh  to  St 
Andrews,  or  rather  to  Magabk  moor. 


CERES. 


519 


lars,  extending  for  half  a  mile  from  north  to  south.  In  many  places 
columns  of  immense  size  have  been  precipitated  from  the  top  of 
the  cliff  to  a  great  distance. 

Mineralogy. — This  parish  abounds  in  minerals.  Both  coal  and 
limestone  are  found,  and  regularly  worked  in  several  of  the  adjoining 
parishes,  i.  e.  Cults,  Largo,  and  St  Andrews ;  and  along  the  whole 
southmost  part  of  this  parish,  there  are  appearances  both  of  coal  and 
limestone.  There  is  no  coal  worked  now  ;  but  this  has  arisen  from 
the  expense  of  the  working,  and  not  from  the  want  of  coals.  The 
Teasses  coals  can  be  traced  over  a  considerable  distance  of  coun- 
try. A  line  might  be  traced  from  Teasses,  by  Hall  Teasses, 
Newbigging,  Craighall,  and  Craighall  to  Coaltown.  About  Hall- 
Teasses,  the  coal  is  described  as  very  fine,  and  as  gradually  becom- 
ing blind  and  deprived  of  its  bitumen.  There  are  numerous  old 
pits  between  Hall-Teasses  and  New  Guilston.  At  Craighall 
Castle,  the  coal  is  separated  from  the  limestone  by  a  mass  of  trap, 
which  has  the  effect  of  tilting  the  coals  and  adjoining  strata  upon 
edge.  This  tilting  up  of  the  strata  into  an  almost  vertical  position, 
has  brought  into  notice  no  less  than  seventeen  seams  of  coal  within 
a  space  of  500  yards.  There  are,  in  like  manner,  seventeen  seams 
of  coal  as  near  the  limestone  at  Pittenweem.  They  resemble  the 
above,  and  are  named  the  Ceres  coals  ;  and  their  individual  names 
and  thickness,  along  with  the  interposing  strata,  may  give  an  in- 
teresting view  of  the  curious  alternations  that  take  place  in  the 
formation  of  coal. 

Rocks.  Coals. 
Yards.  Feet.       Feet.  Inches. 
No.  1.  Luncart  Coal,  .  .  4  3 

2.  Shale  and  Soft  Sandstone,  .  20  0 

3.  Make-him-rich  Coal,  .  .  3  0 

4.  Shale,  )  i,r       ,  0  2 

5.  Two-foot  Coal,      ]  Wrought  as  one  seam,  ^  0 

6.  Sandstone  and  Shale,  .  .  60  0 

7.  The  Thick  Coal,  average  thickness,  16  0 

8.  Sandstone  and  Shale,  .  .  12  0 

9.  Four-foot  Coal,  .  .  5  0 

10.  Metals,  very  hard,  .  .  6  0 

11.  Six-foot  Coal,  .  ,  6  0 

12.  Metals  passable,  .  10  0 

13.  The  Little  Splint,  ,  '  2  6 

14.  Metals,  .  .  ^  13  0 

13.  Bo  wanton  Coal,  .  .      ■  3  0 

16.  Hardstone,  .  .  _  8  0 

17.  Donaldson  Coal,  .  16 

18.  Hard  Sandstone,  .  14  0 

19.  North  Coal,  .  \  3  0 

20.  Sandstone  and  Shale,  .  '  8  0 

21.  Little  Coal,  .  /  2  6 

22.  Sandstone  and  Sliale,  .  5  q 

23.  The  Five-foot  Coal,— 2  inches  of  slonc  in  it,  4  6 


520 


FlFESmUE. 


Rocks.  Coah. 

0.  ^  ,  Yards.  Feet.  Feet.  Inches, 
■ii.  tjandstone  and  Shale,            .            .  2  0 

25.  The  Four-foot  Coal,  .  .  4  0 

26.  Metals  passable,  .  .  18  0 

27.  The  Whin  Coal, — 2  inches  of  whin  in  it,  4  Q 

28.  Metals,  .  .  .  2  0 

29.  The  Rum  or  Foul  Parrot  Coal,  .  3  Q 

30.  Metals  passable,  .  .  70  0 

31.  The  Black  Coal,  .  .  2  0 

32.  Metals,  .  .  .  GO 

34.  Balefield  Coal,  .  .  2  6 

The  line  of  coals  above-mentioned  bears  in  a  direction  pa- 
rallel to  the  limestone.  There  are  nineteen  seams  of  these  coals. 
Towards  Coaltown  they  gradually  flatten  and  occupy  a  greater 
surface  of  country.  Beyond  Kinninmont  the  coals  are  broken  up, 
and  some  of  them  driven  aside  by  the  eruption  of  the  trap  hill  of 
Ladedda.  The  thick  coal  and  other  five  of  the  seams  are  tossed 
up  to  the  top  of  the  hill  of  Drumcarro,  where  they  are  regularly 
wrought.  The  south  slope  of  Ladedda-hill  has  many  marks  of 
old  pits  upon  it,  proving  that  the  coals  pass  along  there.  The 
limestone  which  runs  parallel  with  the  line  of  coal  is  wrought  re- 
gularly at  present,  in  four  different  quarries.  There  is  the  Tequ- 
liats  quarry ;  there  are  two  on  Teasses  property,  and  one  at  La- 
dedda. 

1.  The  Tequliats  lime  is  wrought  by  tirring.  It  is  of  a  spark- 
ling gray  colour,  and  crystalline.  It  is  II  feet  6  inches  thick, 
and  in  three  beds.  Organic  remains  are  exceedingly  rare'  in  this 
quarry.  The  strata  above  the  limestone  are  2  feet  6  inches  of 
sklut,  then  18  feet  of  shale — containing  a  good  deal  of  pyrites, 
which  sometimes  also  occurs  in  the  limestone.  Above  the  shale 
are  6  feet  of  sandstone,  and  4  feet  of  alluvium.  This  limestone  fol- 
lows the  coal,  all  the  way  to  Craighall,  where  it  has  been  wrought. 
About  six  men  are  generally  employed  in'this  quarry.  They  reckon 
the  dip  to  be  1  fathom  in  4  to  S.  E. 

2.  There  is  the  Woodtop  quarry  or  Teasses  middle  limestone. 
It  is  compact,  and  of  a  bluish  gray  colour,  contains  corallines  and 
encrinites,  and  is  less  dark  than  the  former  limestone.  The  strata 
above  it  are  4  feet  6  inches  of  inferior  limestone  or  sklut,  in  which 
are  numerous  fissures  filled  with  beautiful  incrustations  of  calcareous 
spar ;  and  where  the  fissures  are  large,  stalactites,  and  stalagmites 
of  a  dazzling  whiteness  are  formed.  Above  the  sklut,  there  are  20 
feet  of  shale,  and  1  foot  of  alluvium.  This  limestone  is  also  wrought 
by  tirring.  It  is  10  feet  thick,  and  in  four  beds.  It  dips  about  1 
fathom  in  4.  It  has  been  worked  for  about  thirty  years,  and  from 
ten  to  fifteen  men  are  employed  in  it.    It  is  used  for  laying  on 


0-ERES- 


521 


land,  or  for  building,  and  is  shipped  in  considerable  quantities  from 
the  adjoining  ports. 

3.  There  is  the  Teasses  white  limestone  quarry.  The  hme- 
stone  is  10  feet  6  inches  thick,  and  divided  into  five  beds.  Its 
colour  is  whitish  gray,  and  there  would  thus  seem  to  be  a  regu- 
lar progress  in  changing  the  colour  from  Tequliats  quarry.  This 
white  limestone  is  very  compact  and  difficult  to  work, — organic  re- 
mains very  scarce.  The  dip  is  1  fathom  in  5  to  S.  E.  The  strata 
above  it  are  5  feet  of  inferior  limestone,  containing  a  large  portion 
of  argillaceous  matter,  14  feet  of  shale,  7  feet  of  sandstone,  and 
20  feet  of  ferruginous  basalt,  disposed  in  irregular  columns  or 
blocks.  This  limestone  is  wrought  under  ground.  The  pillars 
are  about  6  feet,  and  10  feet  between  them.  It  was  previously 
wrought  by  tirring,  but  has  been  worked  under  ground  for  thirty- 
two  years.  Eight  men  are  generally  employed.  They  enjoy  excel- 
lent health.  Indeed,  there  is  something  wholesome  in  the  air  un- 
der ground ;  and  more  than  one  martyr  to  hooping  cough  have  been 
sent  by  their  physician,  to  keep  company  with  the  workmen, 
for  greater  part  of  a  day,  in  the  hope  of  curing  them.  The  result 
was  generally  favourable.  About  4000  bolls  of  this  limestone 
are  turned  out  in  the  year, — it  is  used  for  purifying  gas,  for  bleach- 
ing and  plastering,  as  well  as  for  land. 

There  is  a  great  similarity  between  the  three  limestones  already 
mentioned.     They  are  all  about  one  thickness ;  their  structure 
and  fracture  resemble  each  other ;  the  strata  above  ihem  are  si- 
milar, and  the  organic  remains  are  the  same;  and  in  all  proba- 
bility, they  are  the  same  bed  of  limestone,  thrown  up  successively 
by  faults,  passing  parallel  to  their  line  of  bearing.  The  Teuchats 
limestone  appears  at  Craighall,  and  has  been  worked  there ;  and 
bearing  west  a  little,  it  trends  round  in  a  semicircular  form  to  Ceres 
toll-bar,  where  it  is  lost  sight  of.    There  is  a  thin  coal  found 
under  it.  The  limestone  here  dips  north.    It  was  attempted  to  be 
wrought,  by  mining  it  under  the  trap  hill.    They  had  not,  how^ 
ever,  proceeded  many  yards,  when  the  limestone  was  found  to  be 
broken  in  masses,  and  full  of  fissures  filled  with  ferruginous  de- 
composed trap,  and  so  much  altered  as  to  be  unfit  for  use.  The 
roof,  though  composed  of  firm  shale,  could  not  be  supported,  from 
the  shattered  state  of  the  limestone  left  as  pillars.  -  The  mining 
became  dangerous,  and  was  consequently  abandoned. 

4.  The  limestone  is  also  wrought  at  Ladedda ;  it  gets  flat  here,  or 
assumes  the  basin  form.  It  is  seen  on  the  north  side  of  Ladedda  Hill, 


522 


FIFESHIRE. 


dippincr  towards  it.  This  limestone  is  11  feet  thick,  of  a  whitish 
gray  colour,  and  compact  structure.  It  is  supposed  to  extend  to  the 
trap  at  the  foot  of  Duncarro  Hill.  The  strata  above  consist  of  two 
feet  of  inferior  limestone  termed  sklut.  It  is  unlike  the  other 
skluts,  and  is  entirely  composed  of  organic  remains,  united  by  a 
calcareous  cement,  the  prevailing  fossil  being  the  encrinite,  found 
in  all  positions,  dislocated  and  studded  all  over,  giving  it  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  conglomerate.  There  are  also  found  in  this  sklut 
the  shells  of  the  Producta  in  great  abundance,  a  few  Terebratula, 
some  fish  teeth  and  scales.  Above  this  sklut  are  14  feet  of  shale, 
4  feet  of  schistose  sandstone  ;  2  feet  6  inches  of  shale ;  15  inches 
of  coal ;  2  feet  of  brown  inferior  limestone ;  8  yards  of  various 
strata,  hitherto  unascertained  ;  then  coal  2  feet  4  inches  thick  ; 
4<  yards  of  various  strata,  then  another  coal  2  feet  6  inches  thick, 
then  a  different  kind,  i.  e.  the  6  foot  coal  inclined  at  a  high  angle, 
and  then  the  10  foot  coal,  almost  all  vertical.  The  limestone  is 
wrought  by  tirring  in  Ladedda  quarry,  and  from  eight  to  ten  men 
are  employed  in  the  work.  It  is  impossible,  in  a  work  of  the  pre- 
sent nature,  to  give  a  full  account  of  the  lime  and  coal  which 
abound  in  the  parish  of  Ceres ;  but  it  will  be  apparent,  from  what 
has  been  already  written,  that  there  is  here  a  very  extensive  field 
either  for  theorists  or  practical  speculators;  and  if  the  demand 
for  coal  continues  to  increase,  it  will  likely  be  found  to  be  neither 
a  bold  nor  a  very  profitless  speculation  to  re-open  some  of  the 
coal- works  that  have  been  allowed  here  to  get  into  disuse.  Those 
who  wish  to  study  the  subject  fully  are  referred  to  a  valuable 
article  in  the  Quarterly  Journal  of  Agriculture  for  June  1836, 
written  by  Mr  David  Landale.  I  have  borrowed  liberally  from 
his  article. 

No  coal  or  limestone  has  hitherto  been  discovered  on  the  north 
side  of  Ceres  water.  There  is  at  Baltullo  mill,  near  Ceres,  a  seam 
of  the  "  Wright's  black  coal,"  which  is  used  for  marking.  The 
seam  is  from  18  inches  to  2  feet  thick.  The  dip  is  nearly  the 
same  as  that  of  the  limestone  on  the  south  side.  Some  of  this 
black  coal  was  sent  to  America,  and  L.  7  was  received  for  one 
ton  of  it.  The  proprietor  of  the  ground  does  not  wish  it  to  be 
wrought,  and  has  closed  up  the  quarry. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Ceres  appears  to  have  been  made  up,  in  past  generations,  of  a 
number  of  distinct  baronies.    In  the  parochial  registers,  of  date 
1631,  there  is  particular  mention  of  the  various  deacons  who  be- 


CERES. 


523 


longed  to  the  several  baronies  of  the  parish.  These  baronies 
were  five  or  six  in  number.  Ceres  is  a  burgh  of  barony,  holding 
of  the  Hopes  of  Craighall,  and  the  feuars  are  bound  to  attend  the 
head  courts ;  but  it  has  no  charter.  Hopes  are  now  entertained 
of  its  receiving  the  privileges  of  a  burgh.  Craigrothie,  which  is 
adjacent  to  Struthers,  seems  to  have  long  enjoyed  these  privileges. 
Its  inhabitants  still  elect  their  baihe  and  councillors  ;  and  two  cases 
are  on  record,  where  individuals  were  sent  to  them  for  judgment, 
and  disposed  of  according  to  their  pleasure.  The  Earl  of  Crawford 
patronized  this  council,  and  left  an  important  case  to  its  decision.* 

Land-oioners. — The  present  land-owners  are,  The  Earl  of 
Glasgow ;  Mr  Wilson,  Craigrothie ;  Captain  Wemyss,  Wemyss 
Hall ;  Sir  George  Campbell,  Edenwood  ;  Major  Christie,  Findas ; 
Captain  Ker,  Greenside  ;  Captain  Stark,  Teasses ;  Sir  Alexander 
Hope,  Craighall;  Messrs  Thoms,  Rumgay;  Mr  Thomson,  Newbig- 
ging;  Mr  Lumsden,  Callange ;  Mr  Speirs,  Kinninmont ;  Mr  Ped- 
dle, Bankhead ;  Lady  Baird,  East  Pitscottie ;  Baldinnie  is  divided 
into  seven  shares ;  General  Bethune  of  Blebo ;  Mr  Barclay  of 
Magus ;  and  Mr  Normand  of  BaltuUo. 

The  original  proprietors  of  Craighall  and  Struthers  seem  to 
have  possessed  great  part  of  the  parish  ;  and  many  valuable  pro- 
perties are  still  held  in  feu  from  the  Hopes  of  Craighall.  These 
feus,  in  former  times,  were  equal  to  the  full  value  of  the  rent  of  the 
property ;  but  at  present,  from  the  rise  in  the  value  of  land,  they 
are  equal  to  about  one-sixth  of  the  rent  which  is  paid  by  the  far- 
mer to  the  feuar. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  records  of  the  kirk-session  are  in  pre- 
servation, from  the  year  1620;  and  from  that  date  to  the  present, 
they  have  been  kept  regularly.  Under  date  1638,  we  find  an  account 
of  the  Confession  of  Faith,  which  was  agreed  to  in  1 560,  and  imme- 
diately after  it,  a  solemn  declaration  or  covenant,  in  which  the  no- 
bility and  gentry  bind  themselves  to  stand  by  the  confession,  and 
to  withstand  the  many  attempts  which  were  then  made  against 
their  religion.  This  declaration  is  signed  at  the  kirk  of  Ceres, 
"  the  last  day  of  Apryll  1638,"  by  "  Lindesay,"  "  Hy.  Ja.  Hope," 
and  Jo.  Scott,"  the  minister,  elders,  and  heads  of  families.  In 
1667,  William  Rowe,  minister  of  Ceres,  had  been  deposed,  be- 
cause he  would  not  conform  to  Episcopacy ;  and  we  find,  in  the  re- 
cords of  that  date,  an  edict  by  "  Lord  St  Andrews,"  appointing 
Alexander  Leslie  to  be  minister  in  the  room  of  Mr  Rowe.- 

In  a  case  ol  horse-stealing,  sentence  of  banishment  was  passed  and  executed. 


524 


FIFESHIRE. 


Antiquities.— There  is  a  great  variety  of  antiquities  in  this  pa- 
rish. There  are  three  very  fine  ruins.  The  ruins  of  Craic^hall 
stand  about  half  a  mile  south-east  of  Ceres,  upon  the  north  bank 
of  a  lovely  den.  The  den  is  sequestered  and  deep,  and  of  consi- 
derable extent,  and  well  wooded.  The  ruins  still  have  an  ap- 
pearance of  grandeur,  and  serve  to  indicate  what  had  been  the 
magnificence  of  the  mansion.  Craighall  was  formerly  the  seat  of 
Sir  Thomas  Hope,  King's  Advocate,  (from  whom  the  principal  fa- 
milies in  Scotland  of  the  name  of  Hope  are  descended,)  and  it  con- 
tinued to  be  the  residence  of  Sir  Thomas's  heirs  till  the  beginning 
of  the  last  century,  when  it  was  sold  to  another  branch  of  the  fa- 
mily, who  succeeded  to  be  Earls  of  Hopetoun.  It  is  now  the  pro- 
perty of  Sir  Alexander  Hope,  brother  to  the  late  John,  Earl  of 
Hopetoun. 

There  are  also  the  ruins  of  Struthers,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  some 
old  papers,  Auchter-uther-Struther.  This  was  formerly  the  seat 
of  the  Earls  of  Crawford,  and  it  stands  about  two  miles  south-west 
from  the  village  of  Ceres.  Man  has  been  less  merciful  to  this 
place  than  "  time ;"  and  there  now  exist  very  scanty  remains  of  the 
once  splendid  house,  and  warlike  towers  and  battlements.  The 
park  around  the  house,  which  is  enclosed  with  a  stone  wall,  contains 
about  200  acres  of  ground.  The  venerable  beeches  of  a  very  large 
size,  which  are  mentioned  in  the  last  Statistical  Account,  have  died 
or  been  cut  down. 

There  is  a  fine  tower  of  freestone,  well  hewn  and  nicely  jointed. 
The  tower  is  about  24  feet  square,  and  about  50  or  60  feet  high. 
It  stands  upon  an  eminence,  commands  a  fine  prospect,  and  is  seen 
at  a  great  distance  in  different  directions.  It  is  formed  by  one  lofty 
vault  on  the  top  of  another.  Upon  the  top  of  the  uppermost,  which 
is  surrounded  with  a  battlement,  there  is  an  apartment  covered  with 
slate.  It  stands  about  a  mile  and  a  half  west  from  the  village  of 
Ceres.  It  was  the  dwelling-place  of  the  family  in  1662,  for  in 
April  29  we  find  this  notice,  "  The  Lady  Scotstaret,  younger, 
married  to  the  Laird  of  Erdlee,  surnamed  Preston.  The  marrkge 
feast  stood  at  Tarvet." 

Remarkable  Events.~On  Wednesday,  the  5th  day  of  October 
1785,  Sig.  Vincentius  Lunardi,  a  Florentine,  having  ascended  at 
Edinburgh,  in  an  air  balloon,  at  three  o'clock  afternoon,  descended 
a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  Ceres,  at  twenty  minutes  past  four  p.  m. 
This  was  the  first  aerial  voyage  made  in  Scotland,  and  the  daring 
adventurer,  in  performing  it,  passed  over  about  twenty  miles  of  sea, 


CERES. 


525 


and  about  twelve  of  land.  The  house  is  still  standing  in  which 
he  was  received  on  his  descent.  , 

Eminent  Persons. — Lindsay  of  Pitscottie,  author  of  an  enter- 
taining history  of  Scotland,  was  a  native  of  the  parish  of  Ceres, 
and  proprietor  of  a  small  estate  in  it. 

Thomas  Buchanan,  rector  of  Ceres,  who  lived  immediately  after 
the  Reformation,  was  a  man  of  considerable  abilities,  and  of  great 
influence  in  the  church. 

Mr  Thomas  Haliburton,  minister  of  Ceres,  and  afterwards  Pro- 
fessor of  Divinity  at  St  Andrews,  was  esteemed  both  as  a  divine 
and  as  a  scholar,  and  wrote  several  pious  and  learned  treatises. 

Modei-n  Buildings. — Since  the  date  of  the  last  Statistical  Ac- 
count, there  have  been  built  two  uncommonly  good  mansion-houses 
on  the  properties  of  Teasses  and  Edenwood.  The  one  on  the  for- 
mer property  is  built  so  as  to  command  a  splendid  view  of  the  Frith 
of  Forth. 

III. — Population. 

In  1755,  the  population  was  2540 
1793,  -  -  2320 

1811,      -         -  2407 
1821,         -         -  2840 
1831,      -         -  2762 
Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  .  .  _  .  .  gQg 

chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  -  .  183 

trade,  manufactures,  or  handicraft,  281 

Since  1831,  there  has  been  a  great  increase  in  the  number  of 
the  people ;  and,  from  the  accounts  of  their  establishments,  which 
were  lately  given  in  by  the  several  manufacturers  in  the  parish,  we 
are  authorized  to  say,  that  the  population  must  now  be  about  3000 
at  least.  In  1793,  138  looms  are  said  to  have  been  employed  in 
the  parish.  From  700  to  900  of  the  inhabitants  are  now  employed 
in  weaving  and  winding.  From  170  to  200  are  employed  regularly 
in  the  mills ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  about  30,  who  are  employ- 
ed in  the  lime-works,  the  greater  part  which  remains  of  the  work- 
ing population  is  agricultural.  The  town  of  Cupar  is  so  near  to 
Ceres,  that  there  are  few  shopkeepers  or  venders  of  any  commodi- 
ties in  the  latter  place. 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People.— T\ie  people  are  univer- 
sally uidustrious,  and  in  general  they  cultivate  the  sister  virtues 
of  temperance  and  frugality.  Considerable  attention  to  neat- 
ness and  cleanhness  also  may  be  discovered  among  them.  Dr  Ar- 
not,  author  of  the  former  account,  mentions,  that  among  the  wo- 
men, the  cloak  and  bonnet  had  become  substitutes  for  the  plaid ; 
and  among  the  men,  that  the  bonnet  was  supplanted  by  the  hat. 


526 


PIFESHIRE. 


It  is  singular  enough,  that  the  plaid  and  bonnet  should  now  be  both 
regaining  their  former  estimation.  There  exists  also  among  the 
people  a  considerable  deal  of  information,  and  a  general  desire  for 
knowledge.  A  subscription  and  circulating  library  was  commenced 
by  them  in  1828.  It  consists  now  of  500  volumes,  in  which  there 
is  varied  as  well  as  much  useful  reading.  There  are  100  subscrib- 
ers to  this  library. 

During  the  last  three  years,  there  were  3  illegitimate  births  in 
the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  8248,  Is.  Id. 
Scotch.  There  are  8000  acres  of  land  in  the  parish.  Of  these,  about 
four-tenths  are  in  tillage,  five-tenths  in  grass,  and  one-tenth  in  plant- 
ing and  moor.  There  is  little  of  moor  land.  The  average  rent  per 
acre  is  L.  1,  10s.  The  farm-houses,  and  the  enclosures  on  the 
farms,  are,  in  general,  good.  The  produce  does  not  exceed  greatly 
the  double  of  the  rent,  which  is  paid  from  the  land.  The  gross  pro- 
duce cannot  be  much  under  30,000  bolls  of  corn,  and  15,000  do. 
potatoes.  Dr  Arnot,  in  his  time,  makes  12,000  of  corn  and  2000 
of  potatoes  !  But  in  a  parish  where  so  many  have  their  patch  of 
corn,  and  their  planting  of  potatoes,  in  addition  to  their  live-stock, 
it  is  impossible  to  form  a  correct  estimate  of  the  real  produce. 
About  ninety  years  ago,  there  were  20  flocks  of  sheep  kept  in  the 
parish.  Now  there  is  not  one ;  but  there  is  a  great  number  of 
cattle  fed  for  the  market.  The  last  Statistical  Account  states  90 
to  be  the  number  of  ploughs.  They  are  now  130  at  least.  A 
quantity  of  pork  also  is  sent  from  this  to  London. 

The  rent  of  a  cottage  is  L.  2.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  however, 
that  the  cottar  system  does  not  prevail  to  any  extent  here.  The 
farms  vary  in  extent  from  40  to  365  Scotch  acres.  The  farmers 
have  adopted,  with  great  success,  the  various  improvements  that  have 
been  lately  suggested  in  the  system  of  agriculture,  and  the  land  is 
everywhere  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Draining  has  been  car- 
ried on  to  a  very  great  extent ;  and  as  there  are  either  quarries  or 
plenty  of  stones  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  drains  are  almost  all 
regularly  built.  The  fields  are  well  enclosed,  and  in  general  with 
stone  fences.  There  is  one  thrashing-mill,  which  is  driven  by  steam, 
three  thrashing-mills,  and  one  mill  for  making  butter,  driven 
by  water.  There  is  also  one  windmill,  which  thrashes  corn,  and 
makes  meal,  and  saws  wood.  It  was  erected  on  the  property  of 
Greenside,  by  the  present  proprietor,  and  serves  admirably  for  the 


CERES. 


527 


three  purposes  above-mentioned.  It  is  the  only  one,  I  believe,  in 
the  county  of  Fife.  A  great  quantity  of  lime  has  been  laid  out 
on  the  several  farms  in  the  parish.  The  farmers,  as  a  body  of 
men,  are  of  an  enterprising  and  industrious  spirit ;  and,  as  they 
have  lime  and  stones  near  at  hand,  and  other  necessaries  for  im- 
proving land,  they  have  not  been  slow  to  avail  themselves  of  these 
means.  The  quantity  of  water  which  abounds  in  the  parish,  and 
often  overflows  the  land,  is  the  great  obstacle  to  improvement  in 
agriculture.  On  one  farm,  during  the  late  wet  season,  about  1000 
cart-loads  of  surface  were  carried  off  half  an  acre  of  land. 

The  leases  are,  in  general,  of  nineteen  years'  duration. 

Manufactures. — Since  the  date  of  the  last  Statistical  Account 
three  spinning-mills  have  been  built  in  the  parish,  and  a  bleach- 
field  establishment  has  been  erected  at  Duraden.  In  1827,  two 
mills  were  built  on  the  grounds  of  Easter  Pitscottie.  The  ma- 
chinei'y  is  propelled  partly  by  water,  and  partly  by  steam.  The 
steam,  in  general,  is  only  required  in  summer,  occasionally  when 
the  water  is  light.  The  mills  belong  to  Messrs  William  and  James 
Yool,  manufacturers,  Ceres.  There  is  accommodation  for  the  fa- 
milies of  the  workers  in  the  buildings  at  these  mills  ;  and  they  con- 
tain altogether  upwards  of  150  individuals.  There  is  a  teacher  and 
a  small  library  attached  to  the  mills.  The  other  spinning-mill, 
which  belongs  to  Mr  David  Yool,  was  erected  at  Tarvit  in  1799. 
The  machinery  at  this  mill  goes  partly  by  water,  and  partly  by 
steam ;  and  the  power  is  applied  also  to  the  turning  of  a  saw-mill. 
The  three  spinning-mills  are  occupied  in  preparing  and  spinning 
flax,  tow,  and  yarns.  The  raw  material  is  obtained  from  Dundee  : 
and  the  yarns  are  sent  partly  to  the  Dundee  market,  and  partly  to 
manufacturers  in  Fife.  150  men,  women,  and  young  people  are  em- 
ployed. The  bleachfield  establishment  was  erected  in  1825  by  some 
manufacturers  in  Ceres.  It  has  received  the  name  of  St  Ann's 
Bleaching  Company,  from  a  well  of  that  name  in  the  vicinity. 
The  number  of  hands  employed  varies  from  35  to  40.  The  sup- 
ply of  brown  raw  material  for  it,  is  chiefly  obtained  from  the  mills 
already  mentioned.  Previous  to  the  erection  of  this  bleachfield, 
little  was  manufactured  by  the  weavers  in  Ceres  except  «  Brown 
Silesias ;"  now  the  yarns  are  all  cleaned  and  bleached,  and  the 
people  are  employed  in  weaving  dowlas  and  sheeting.  From  700 
to  900  are  engaged  in  this  employment ;  and  from  L.  50,000  to 
L.  60,000  Sterling  worth  of  dowlas  and  sheeting  are  annually  ma- 
nufactured in  the  parish.    To  any  one  who  reads  this  statement 


,528 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  the  manufacture,  it  will  be  evident  that  the  various  works  are 
most  profitably  arranged.  The  mills  supply  the  bleachfield,  and 
the  bleachfield  supplies  the  weavers  :  and  while  there  is  a  saving, 
in  this  manner,  as  to  the  carriage  of  the  various  articles,  there  is 
also  an  encouragement  to  the  manufacture  of  the  place.  There 
is  every  likelihood  that  the  manufacture  of  this  flourishing  place 
will,  in  a  few  years,  become  more  extended  ;  and  there  are,  at  pre- 
sent, some  proposals  of  erecting  another  mill  on  a  very  extensive 
plan. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Markets. —  There  is  a  weekly  market  in  Cupar,  the  county  (own, 
distant  only  two  miles  and  a-half.  But  this  widely  extended  parish 
has  an  easy  access  to  markets  in  several  places :  and  some  of  the 
farmers  find  it  convenient  to  send  their  produce  to  Largo,  some  to 
St  Andrews,  and  a  very  few  to  Dundee.  There  are  two  annual 
markets  or  fairs  held  in  the  village  of  Ceres, — one  on  the  24th 
June,  and  the  other  on  the  20th  day  of  October  ;  and  both  of  them 
are  most  numerously  resorted  to,  as  excellent  wool,  and  corn,  and 
horse,  and  cattle-markets. 

Means  of  Communication. — A  turnpike  road  runs  from  east  to 
west  through  the  whole  length  of  the  parish.  There  is  also  a  road 
which  runs  from  north  to  south,  through  the  breadth  of  the  parish. 
In  summer,  a  daily-coach  runs  though  Ceres,  and  joins  the  steam- 
boat which  leaves  Largo  for  Edinburgh.  A  messenger,  paid  by 
the  inhabitants  of  Ceres,  carries  letters  or  papers  daily  to  Cupar, 
the  post-town.  There  are  regular  carriers  from  Ceres  to  all  the 
neighbouring  towns. 

Ecclesiastical  State. —  Ceres  parish  is  a  rectory,  which,  before 
the  Reformation,  belonged  to  the  Provostry  of  Kirkheugh,  a  re- 
ligious house  at  St  Andrews.  A  considerable  part  of  the  east  end 
of  the  parish  formerly  belonged  to  the  parish  of  St  Andrews,  and 
about  the  year  1620,  was  annexed  to  Cere?,  quoad  sacra  tantiim, 
(as  it  was  long  thought;)  but  the  present  incumbent  discovered 
that  there  was  no  such  reservation,  and  it  is  now  annexed,  quoad 
sacra  et  civilia.  Ceres  originally  belonged  to  St  Andrews  pres- 
bytery. In  the  old  church  of  Ceres,  tliere  was  an  aisle  on  the 
south,  which  belonged  to  the  family  of  Craighall,  and  which,  be- 
fore the  Reformation,  was  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Ninian.  The 
schoolmaster  of  Ceres  uniformly  receives  a  presentation  to  the 
chaplainry.  There  used  to  be  a  salary  of  L.  3  Scots  paid  to  him  ; 
but  the  houses  in  Cupar  from  which  this  salary  was  paid  cannot 


CERES. 


529 


now  be  discovered.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1806.  It 
stands  on  a  height,  where  formerly  stood  the  old  church  and  cha- 
pel :  it  was  situated  on  the  outskirts  of  the  old  town,  but  since  the 
new  town  or  Bridge-end  was  built,  it  may  be  said  to  be  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  village.  It  is  seated  for  1100,  but  actually  holds 
1300,  and  the  seats  are  very  advantageously  disposed  both  for 
hearers  and  speaker.  These  seats  aU  belong  to  the  heritors  of 
the  parish,  and  there  is  no  rent  charged  for  the  use  of  them. 
Seats  are  appropriated  for  the  proprietors  and  farmers,  and  the 
remainder  are  free  and  open  to  the  people,  and,  except  on  very 
bad  days,  they  are  well  filled.  There  are  two  meetings  in  the 
church,  winter  and  summer.  The  average  number  of  com- 
municants is  1000.  The  right  of  patronage,  by  a  grant  from  the 
Crown,  was  vested  in .  the  Crawford  family.  The  stipend,  by  a 
decreet  of  the  Court  of  Teinds,  was  fixed  at  16  chalders  victual, 
half  meal,  half  barley.  The  manse  was  built  in  1 788,  and  has  had 
little  alteration  or  repair  since  that  time.  The  glebe  consists  of  7 
acres  of  excellent  land. 

There  are  also  two  meeting-houses  in  the  village  of  Ceres,  one 
for  the  Associate  Congregation  of  Antiburgher  Seceders,  which 
was  built  in  1744,  the  other  for  the  Presbytery  of  Relief.  To 
each  of  these  are  attached  a  settled  clergyman  and  regular  con- 
gregation. A  brotherly  feeling  and  Christian  spirit  pervades  the 
greater  number  of  the  members  of  these  three  congregations  ; 
and  you  will  occasionally  find  them  in  each  others  place  of  wor- 
ship. 

There  are  about  86  families  in  this  parish  attached  to  the  Re- 
lief Church,  and  about  the  same  number  to  the  Secession. 

Education. — There  are  one  parochial,  one  Secession  school,  and 
three  contribution  schools,  besides  the  schools  at  Pitscottieand  Tar- 
vit  Mills.  There  are  also  two  female  schools,  besides  one  or  two  small 
private  schools.  By  a  contract  entered  into,  anno  1631,  between  Sir 
Thomas  Hope,  advocate  to  Charles  I.,  on  the  one  part,  and  Lord 
Lindsay,  patron  of  the  parish,  the  heritors  thereof,  the  minister,  and 
kirk-session  on  the  other  part ;  Sir  Thomas  Hope,in  consequence  of 
mortifying  100  merks  Scotch  yearly,  for  the  benefit  of  the  school- 
master, was  to  have  the  right  of  presenting  the  schoolmaster. 
The  right  of  trial  and  admission  was  to  be  vested  in  the  minister 
and  session.  In  this  state  the  matter  still  continues.  The 
schoolmaster  receives  the  value  of  this  mortification  in  addition  to 
his  salary,  which  is  the  maximum.    The  average  number  of  scho- 

FIFE.  L 1 


630 


FIFESHlllE. 


lars  who  attend  at  this  parish  school  is  150,  The  fees  may  amount 
to  L.  65  per  annum. 

In  October  1836,  the  scholars  entered  the  new  school-house, 
which  had  been  built  by  the  heritors  for  their  additional  accommo- 
dation, and  which  would  easily  contain  200  scholars  and  upwards. 
It  is  a  very  handsome  building,  and  far  surpasses  the  common 
structure  of  school-houses.  The  exterior  is  elegantly  finished, 
and  the  interior  is  in  harmony  with  the  outward  appearance.  This 
attention  to  the  comfort  and  health  of  the  young  is  an  act  of  true 
mercy,  for  which  the  parents  cannot  be  too  thankful.  The  heri- 
tors propose  to  build  a  dwelling-house  for  the  teacher. 

One  of  the  other  schools  is  held  in  the  village  of  Craigrothie. 
A  school  and  school-house  were  built  by  subscription  in  1806; 
and  ground  was  given  by  the  proprietor  of  Craigrothie,  who  still 
contributes  to  the  support  of  the  teacher.  Excepting  this  contri- 
bution, the  fees  are  the  only  support  of  this  teacher.  From  60  to 
70  scholars  attend  him.  There  is  a  Sunday  evening  school,  which 
is  attached  to  this  school,  as  well  as  to  the  parochial  one,  and  each 
of  them  have  got  libraries  for  the  use  of  those  who  attend.  Their 
is  also  another  Sunday  school  in  Ceres,  which  possesses  a  library 
for  the  use  of  the  young.  About  50  or  60  girls  attend  one  of  the 
female  schools,  which  is  kept  in  the  village  of  Ceres. 

Societies. — In  1795,  a  Friendly  Society  was  established  in  the 
village  of  Ceres.  It  now  consists  of  200  members,  and  it  possesses 
a  capital  of  L.  600,  which  is  laid  out  on  heritable  security  at  5 
per  cent.  The  sum  of  4s.  6d.  is  annually  contributed  by  each  of 
the  members, — and  this  small  contribution  entitles  them  to  receive 
4s.  a  week,  if  for  a  time  they  should  be  conjined  to  bed  ;  or  2s.  if 
they  are  merely  unable  to  work.  To  those  who  are  superannuated, 
and  have  no  hope  of  returning  to  work,  Is.  6d.  a  week  is  given. 
This  society  has  been  the  means  of  enabHng  many  to  enjoy  vari- 
ous comforts  during  sickness.  In  1765,  a  branch  of  the  Grand 
Mason  Lodge  of  Scotland  was  established  in  Ceres.  Its  members 
are  numerous,  and  60  of  them  have  joined  themselves  into  a 
Friendly  Society.  They  contribute  6s.  annually,  and  during  the 
time  of  sickness  they  receive  3s.  6d.  a  week.  There  is  also  in 
Craigrothie  a  Friendly  Society,  which  was  formed  in  1825.  The 
number  of  its  members  at  present  is  60.  The  object  of  this  So- 
ciety is  to  give  aid  to  members  when  in  sickness,  and  to  widows, 
when  the  funds  can  afford.  The  funds  are  .at  present  in  so  flour- 
ishing a  state,  that  the  society  gives  15s.  a  year  to  widows. 


CERES. 


531 


Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — Besides  the  usual  funds  for  the  poor 
which  arise  from  collections  at  the  church,  and  from  dues  on  mar- 
riages, &c.  there  is  the  rent  of  three  acres  which  were  left  to  the  ses- 
sion, and  also  the  interest  of  L.  460,  which  was  left  by  the  late 
Miss  Halkerston  of  Carskardo.  Originally,  this  sum  was  L.  500, 
but  the  necessary  expenses  on  legacies  have  reduced  it  to  L.  460. 
It  is  lent  out  at  4  per  cent.  There  is  no  regular  assessment. 
But  the  heritors,  every  year,  make  a  voluntary  assessment,  so  as  to 
meet  all  deficiencies  in  the  other  sources.  The  church  collection 
may  amount  to  L.  60  per  annum.  There  is  a  great  deal  of 
money  expended  for  the  good  of  the  poor  in  a  private  way, 
by  benevolent  individuals  who  reside  in  the  parish.  This  private 
charity  falls,  of  course,  very  heavily  on  the  few  heritors  who  reside 
in  the  parish,  and  to  whom  frequent  applications  are  made.  A 
certain  quantity  of  coals  and  meal  is  annually  distributed  among 
the  poor,  at  the  private  expense  of  some  of  the  heritors.  The 
average  number  of  poor  on  the  roll  is  50,  and  the  yearly  expen- 
diture is  about  L.  120. 

Fuel. — There  is  an  abundant  supply  of  good  Scotch  coal  in  the 
neighbourhood ;  and  in  common  seasons  coal  is  the  cheapest  fuel. 

Inns. — The  number  of  inns  may  be  about  25.  Their  corrupt- 
ing influence  has  not  hitherto  been  very  general. 

November  1837. 


.PARISH  OF  KILMANY. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  HENRY  D.  COOK,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  AND  Natural  History. 

Situation  and  Boundaries. — The  parish  of  Kilmany  is  situate 
in  the  north-east  district  of  the  presbytery  of  Cupar,  in  the  county 
of  Fife.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  Forgan ;  on  the  south  by 
Logie;  on  the  west  by  Dairsie,  Cupar,  and  Moonzie ;  and  on  the 
north  by  Creech  and  Balmerino.  The  small  village  in  which  the 
church  is  placed  lies  at  nearly  equal  distance  from  Cupar,  the 
county  town,  and  Newport,  which  is  now  the  principal  ferry  to  Dun- 
dee, and  the  north,  from  Edinburgh  and  the  south  of  Scotland. 
The  distance  from  each  of  these  places  is  nearly  five  miles. 
The  parish  constitutes  a  part  of  that  rich  and  fertile  valley  which 
commences  at  the  low  grounds  of  Forgan  and  Leuchars,  on  the 
.east,  and  runs  (through  the  north  of  Fife)  to  the  west,  by  Rathil- 
let,  Letham,  and  the  new  inn  on  the  left  hand  ;  and  to  Newburgh 
by  Denbog,  on  the  right. 

Name. — The  origin  of  the  name  is  Celtic;  some  supposing  that 
it  means  the  Church  of  the  Monks,  although  there  are  no  remains 
of  such  a  building.  Others  think,  that  it  signifies  the  church  in 
the  valley, — which  is  characteristic  of  its  situation. 

Extent. — The  length  of  Kilmany,  from  east  to  west,  is  6  miles ;  and 
through  the  whole  of  it  runs  the  high  road  from  Newport  to  Edin- 
burgh by  Luthrie  and  Melville  Gates,  &c.  It  is  narrow  towards  the 
east,  but  it  gradually  widens  to  the  west.  The  greatest  breadth  be- 
twixt Hazleton  walls,  and  the  south  boundary  of  Myre-Cairnie,  is 
four  miles.  The  shape  of  the  parish  resembles  that  of  a  bottle,  the 
manse  and  church  being  placed  at  the  neck  of  it.  The  hills 
by  which  the  valley  is  formed  are  branches  of  the  Ochils.  Their 
shape  is  peculiar,  and  almost  uniform.  From  the  east,  they  gra- 
dually ascend  to  a  considerable  height,  and  suddenly  fall  towards 
the  west.  This  is  not  only  the  case  with  the  large  range  which  se- 
parates Kilmany  from  the  Tay ;  but  also  with  the  smaller  ridges 
which  at  different  places  divide  the  parish.    The  principal  range 


KILMANY. 


533 


is  extensive,  and  at  some  places  rises  more  than  400  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  It  terminates  at  Newton,  three  miles  to  the 
east  of  Kilmany ;  the  southern  branch  of  the  Ochils,  which forms 
this  valley,  lies  in  Logie  parish,  and  extends  towards  Leuchars. 
Goales  den  is  the  only  fissure  of  any  importance  in  the  parish.  It 
is  a  beautiful  and  romantic  spot,  and  I  daresay  would  afford  ample 
materials  for  the  speculations  of  the  geologist.  It  is  a  deep  cut 
in  Kilmany  hill,  looking  towards  the  south,  through  which  a  small 
rivulet  flows  from  the  higher  grounds,  and  by  which,  during  the 
course  of  ages,  it  was  probably  formed.  It  is  almost  dry  in  sum- 
mer ;  but  in  winter  after  storms,  it  sends  down  a  considerable 
quantity  of  water  to  the  Motray.  It  was  planted  with  great  taste 
by  the  late  proprietor,  Mr  Thomson,  and  beautiful  walks  were 
made  through  it;  but  these,  since  his  lamented  death,  have  been 
permitted  in  a  great  degree,  to  go  out  of  order. 

Hydrography. — The  valley  itself  presents  some  striking  features. 
The  lower  part  of  it  has  been  under  water  to  a  considerable  length 
and  depth.  This  is  evident  from  the  height  of  the  sandy  hillocks 
scattered  through  the  lands  of  East  Kinnear,  and  from  the  nature 
and  formation  of  the  mound,  upon  which  the  village  and  church  of 
Kilmany  are  built.  From  the  elevation  of  these,  above  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley,  the  water  must  have  stood  20  feet  above  the 
channel  of  the  Motray.  From  the  nature  of  the  sand  deposited, 
it  is  probable  that  the  east  part  of  the  valley  formed  an  extensive 
lake.  The  grains  of  it  are  soft  and  small,  and  do  not  resemble  the 
hard  sharp  sand  which  is  found  upon  the  sea  shore.  The  upper 
part  of  the  valley  has  also  been  under  water,  but  rather  as  a  marsh 
than  deep  standing  water.  The  shape  of  the  different  hillocks 
and  mounds  shows  that  the  lake  has  been  gradually  formed ;  the 
sides  of  them  rise  with  a  gentle  slop,  and,  generally  speaking,  the 
tops  of  them  are  smooth.  There  must  have  been  some  barrier  to 
the  east  of  Kinnear,  which  prevented  the  Motray  having  free  ac- 
cess to  the  ocean ;  but  the  precise  place  where  it  was  cannot  now 
be  ascertained.  How  it  was  removed,  is  equally  uncertain  ;  the 
height  of  the  water,  accumulated  for  ages,  probably  forced  a  pas-- 
sage  for  itself  to  the  sea,  and  left  the  valley  a  morass,  which  it 
contmued  to  be  for  ages.  It  is  not  above  fifty  years  since  a  great 
part  of  it  was  drained,  and  converted  into  excellent  arable  land. 
There  is  a  vague  tradition  that  there  was  once  a  passage  boat  upon 
this  lake  to  Cruvie  and  Straiten,  and  in  confirmation  of  this,  it 
IS  stated  that  a  small  alichor  was  found  when  the  meadows  were 
first  ploughed. 


634 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  Motray  takes  its  rise  from  the  different  sides  of  Norman's 
Law ;  from  east  of  these,  a  small  stream  proceeds,  and  they  unite 
before  they  enter  the  parish  at  Starr.  Its  course  is  through  the 
lowlands  of  Starr,  Murdo-Cairnie,  and  Mountquhanie  ;  it  bounds 
the  back  fields  of  Rathillet  and  Newbigging,  where  it  is  not  seen 
from  the  public  road  ;  it  again  appears  flowing  through  Kilmany- 
den,  crosses  the  high  road  at  the  mill,  and  continues  its  course  to 
the  Eden  by  Kilmany  church  and  the  two  Kinnears.  In  summer, 
it  is  a  small  stream  not  ten  feet  broad,  and  one  deep  ;  but  in  win- 
ter, it  often  assumes  a  threatening  appearance.  It  then  not  only 
fills  but  overflows  its  banks,  and  affords  to  the  Eden  a  great  mass 
of  water.  It  turns  in  this  parish  three  corn  mills,  one  thrashing 
mill  and  one  saw  mill. 

There  is  another  small  stream,  which  has  its  source  to  the  east 
of  Rathillet  school.  Its  name  is  Cluthie  or  Colluthie.  It  joins 
the  Motray  below  the  church.  Its  whole  course  is  little  more 
than  a  mile.  The  water  of  it  is  pure  and  excellent,  and  it  does 
not  become  dry  during  the  hottest  summers.  It  is  the  boundary 
betwixt  Kilmany  and  the  estate  of  Forret,  in  Logic  parish  There 
are  two  other  small  burns,  one  of  which  passes  through  Lochnia- 
lonie  and  Rathillet,  and  the  other,  which  is  the  south  boundary  of 
the  parish  below  Myre-Cairnie,  does  not  fall  into  the  Motray. 
The  parish,  from  these  streams,  is  admirably  adapted  for  grazing. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  Kilmany,  from  its  situation,  is  mild 
and  pleasant.  The  heat  in  summer,  in  the  morning,  and  fore- 
noon, is  sometimes  oppressive ;  but  not  often  so ;  and  by  the  af- 
ternoon, the  wind  goes  round  to  the  east,  and  gives  us  a  cooling 
breeze fromthe  German  Ocean.  The coldin  winter isseldom intense ; 
but  the  one,  from  the  commencement  of  January  1838,  is  an  excep- 
tion from  this  remark.  The  thermometer  on  the  evening  of  the 
14th  of  February  stood  at  6  of  Fahrenheit.  It  must  have  been 
lower  than  this,  during  the  night ;  and  at  nine  next  morning,  it  was  at 
9.  I  have  kept  the  thermometer  regularly  for  the  last  seven  years  : 
— but  during  that  period  there  has  been  no  cold  so  intense  as  that 
which  I  have  now  mentioned.  To  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  pres- 
sure, and  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  I  send  an  average  ot 
the  one,  and  the  other,  for  the  months  of  1835  and  1836.  It  is 
accurately  drawn  up  by  my  friend,  Mr  M'Gillivray,  parochial  teach- 
er, from  a  record  of  the  weather,  daily  and  regularly  kept  by  my- 
self. The  barometer  is  marked  at  nine  morning  and  eleven  at  night, 
the  thermometer  at  nine  morning,  twelve  at  noon,  and  eleven  at  night. 


KILMANY. 


585 


Greatest  cold  during  the  preceding-  twenty-four  hours  is  taken 
from  a  self-reffulatino-  thermometer  at  nine  morning. 


1833. 


January, 

February, 

March, 

April, 

May,  . 

June,  . 

July, 

August, 

September, 

October, 

November, 

December, 

1836. 
January, 
February, 
March, 
April,  . 
May,  . 
June, 
July,  . 
August, 
September, 
October, 
November, 
December, 


Barometer. 


.Vlorn. 


Even. 


30.0tV 
29.6fo 

iO.ltV 

•29.9^5 

30.14 

30.04 

30.0/5 

29.9^ 
30.1^ 

■29.8 
■29.8A 
29.7 
29.8t?o 

29.5j% 
29.9 
SO.Ot^^ 
29.9t% 

29-5* 
29-7t'W 


29.9^0 
30.1,'^ 
29.9/„ 
.30.1^5 

30.0/iy 

30.0^5 
>9.6f^ 
29.8 
29. 9  A 
W.lfo 

•29.8A 
29.4Jiy 

29.fitV 
30.43_ 

29.6 

29.9/^ 
30.0f^ 

29.9fo 

29.8 

29.6 

■29.7fg 


Thermometer. 


Gt.  C- 

Morn. 

Noon. 

Even. 


31 

354 

40 

35 

36 

40 

44 

374 

31 

41 

46 

364 

36 

464 

3I| 

394 

41 

51 

554 

42 

45 

57 

61 

474 

49 

60 

644 

51 

53 

604 

66 

54 

44 

S34 

39 

464 

39 

45 

51 

41 

36 

41 

45 

39 

324 

37 

40 

35 

32 

374 

39 

35 

31 

354 

40 

OA  1 

344 

33 

39 

444 

36 

35 

43 

48 

37 

39 

51 

60 

444 

47 

56 

62 

49 

40^ 

56J 

6I4 

474 

46 

56 

61 

48 

41 

504 

57 

44 

38 

454 

504 

42 

33 

38 

41 

37 

331 

38i 

404 

37 

In  1835,  the  greatest  cold  was  during  the  night  of  January  18th. 
The  thermometer  stood  at  18.  The  greatest  heat  was,  on  August 
18th,  76.  Greatest  cold,  1836,  November  the  9th,  22i.  The 
greatest  heat,  August  11th,  74.  The  greatest  height  of  barome- 
ter 1835,  was  20,  January  3d  being  30.8tV>  the  lowest  October 
26,  28.7.  In  1836  barometer  highest,  May  14th,  30.6|,  lowest, 
October  13th  '28.7^%.  The  weather  is  often  cold  and  ungenial 
in  March,  April,  and  the  beginning  of  May,  the  wind  being  in  an 
ea.st  or  south-east  direction.  Our  highest  winds  in  spring  and 
autumn  are  from  the  south-west.  The  willow  trees  all  lie  from 
that  direction — but  our  greatest  falls  of  rain  and  snow  are  invari- 
ably from  the  east  or  south-east.  Since  1827  until  March  last, 
the  roads  in  winter  have  not  been  completely  blocked  up ;  and  when 
they  were  difficult  to  pass,  this  arose  more  from  the  snow  being 
drifted  than  from  any  serious  fall.  The  harvest  has  commenced, 
in  this  valley,  since  1821,  as  follows. 


1821,  August  30, 
18-22,     do.  12, 

1823,  Sept.  16, 

1824,  Augt.  25, 

1825,  do.  22, 


18-26,  July  22, 

1827,  August  2.3, 

1828,  do  14, 

1829,  do  29, 

1830,  Sept.  3, 


1831,  Augt.  8, 

1832,  do.  21, 

1833,  do.  20, 

1834,  do.  12, 
1833,  do.  28, 
1836,  29, 


1837,  September  7, 


536 


PERTHSHIRE. 


The  earliest  harvest  for  the  last  seventeen  years  being  22(1  of 
July  1826,  and  the  latest  September  16th  1823.  This  statement 
IS  the  best  practical  account  of  the  climate  of  Kilmany  and  its 
neighbourhood. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy.— On  these  subjects,  it  is  enough  here 
to  state,  that  the  principal  range  of  hills  to  the  north  of  Kilmany  is 
composed  of  trap  or  whinstone.  There  are  various  kinds  of  this  rock. 
There  is  a  dark  blue  species  on  Kinnear  and  East  Kilmany,  which 
is  hard,  and  brittle,  and  with  difficulty  stands  the  operations  of  the 
hammer.  It  is  in  a  solid  body,  and  must  be  separated  from  the  pa- 
rent mass  by  gunpowder.  There  is  another  species  of  this  rock  on 
West  Kilmany.  It  is  equally  hard,  its  colour  is  lighter  blue,  and 
its  grain  considerably  coarser  and  more  tenacious.  It  is  difficult  to 
work ;  but,  by  hard  labour,  it  can  be  cut  into  any  size  and  form,  for 
building.  It  appears  in  the  quarry  in  great  blocks,— separated 
from  one  another,  by  a  thin  coating  of  a  substance  like  yellow  ochre. 
Judging  from  an  imperfect  examination,  the  quarry  behind  Mount- 
quhanie,  is  of  the  same  description.  On  the  top  and  face  of  the  hills, 
when  it  has  been  long  exposed  to  the  weather,  it  assumes  the  aspect 
of  rotten  rock.  On  the  lower  range  of  hills,  such  as  are  behind  West 
Kilmany  farm  house,  it  is  not  in  solid  masses,  which  need  to  be  blown ; 
but  can  be  separated  into  comparatively  small  pieces,  by  the  com- 
mon pick  or  lever.  From  this  species  of  trap,  some  of  the  roads  in 
the  neighbourhood  are  repaired.  At  Hill-Cairnie  and  Myre-Cair- 
nie,  at  the  south-west  of  the  parish,  the  hills  assume  a  different 
appearance,  although  they  are  of  the  trap  species.  The  rocks,  of 
which  they  are  composed,  are  equally  hard  with  the  trap,  on  the 
north  range;  but  the  colour,  instead  of  a  dark  blue,  consists  of  a 
dirty  white,  mixed  with  red ;  they  are  well  adapted  for  coarse  build- 
ing, for  dikes,  and  drains,  and  for  metal  to  the  roads.  When 
properly  chosen  and  shaped,  they  look  tolerably  well  for  buildings 
of  higher  pretensions.  The  whole  of  Mr  Russell  x)f  Hill-Cairnie''s 
steading,  which  is  the  most  substantial  in  the  parish,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  cornerstones,  hntels,  and  skews,  is  built  of  this  stone. 
There  are  various  other  kinds  of  the  trap  family  scattered  amongst 
the  hills. 

Zoology,  Sfc. — In  addition  to  those  birds  which  are  common 
throughout  the  country,  the  pheasant  has  been  partially  introdu- 
ced amongst  us  ;  but,  from  the  want  of  cover,  they  are  by  no  means 
numerous,  and,  fiom  the  same  cause,  will  not  become  so.  The 
parish  is  visited  by  the  common  and  larger  snipe ;  and  occa- 


KILMANY. 


537 


sionally  during  winter,  by  the  woodcock.  Immense  flocks  of 
wild  geese  traverse  the  air  and  the  fields  in  spring  and  autumn ; 
and  in  winter,  wheq  the  weather  is  mild  ;  but  from  the  open  nature 
of  the  country,  few  of  them  fall  by  the  gun  of  the  sportsman. 
Wild  ducks  were  at  one  time  common  ;  but  they  have,  in  a  great 
degree,  retired  before  the  agricultural  improvements  which  have 
taken  place.  A  few  of  them  are  still  occasionally  seen  about 
Kilmany  mill-dam,  and  upon  the  Motray.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  the  water  hen,  or  common  gallinule.  The  heron  is  seen ; 
but  does  not  build  in  the  parish.  The  yellow  wagtail  is  also  rare. 
The  ringdove  produces  in  abundance,  and  for  some  years  past 
has  become  a  nuisance  to  the  farmer.  In  winter,  they  fly  in  flocks, 
and  during  a  storm,  attack  every  thing  green  which  appears  above 
the  snow.  They  are  particularly  severe  upon  the  turnip  crops. 
Many  acres  of  this  valuable  root  are  annually  severely  damaged 
by  this  destructive  bird.  Means  should  be  employed  by  proprie- 
tors and  tenants  to  diminish  their  numbers.  The  lapwing  ap- 
pears in  March  and  April,  and  the  corncrake's  voice  is  heard  dur- 
ing the  summer,  from  May  to  October.  Both  these  birds  disap- 
pear before  the  winter.  During  a  storm,  or  rather  at  the  approach 
of  it,  various  species  of  gulls  are  seen  in  flocks  on  the  fields,  mixing 
with  the  common  crow.  They  appear  upon  these  occasions  to 
feed  on  the  worms  turned  up  by  the  plough,  and  to  devour  what- 
ever grain  or  seeds  come  in  their  way. 

The  Motray  was  once  famous  as  a  fishing  stream.  Its  course 
was  not  direct,  nor  its  waters  equally  shallow,  as  they  now  are  ; 
but  at  every  turn,  there  were  excellent  pools  or  crannies,  where 
the  finny  race  could  harbour,  feed,  and  grow  to  maturity.  By 
the  improvements  in  agriculture,  its  character,  in  this  respect,  is 
in  a  great  degree  lost.  It  now  assumes  the  aspect  of  a  large  even 
drain.  As  such,  it  has  answered  the  excellent  purposes  for  which 
it  was  cast.  It  has  converted  a  large  tract  of  marshy  ground  into 
rich  and  productive  fields ;  but  it  has  removed  those  corners  and 
holes,  where  trout,  pike,  and  minnows  delight  to  dwell  The 
angler  is  now  seldom  seen  on  its  banks ;  and  when  he  does  appear, 
his  labour  and  patience  receive  a  very  poor  reward. 

There  are  no  very  rare  species  of  animals  found  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. The  roe-deer  was  for  a  long  time  banished  fi  ■om  this 
part  o  the  country,  but  of  late  has  again  made  its  appearance.  A 
much  larger  spec.es  of  deer,  at  one  period,  must  have  existed  in 
this  parish,  and  neighbom-hood.    This  is  evident  from  some  fossil 


538 


FIFESniRE. 


remains  which  were  some  years  ago  ploughed  up  in  Hill-Cairnie 
Myre.  One  skeleton  of  the  deer  species  was  found  with  immense 
horns,  both  in  point  of  height  and  breadth.  It  is  now  in  the  pos- 
session of  Professor  Fleminfj  of  Aberdeen.  This  must  either  have 
been  a  distinct  species  from  any  which  we  now  meet  with  ;  or  the 
roe-deer,  enjoying  perfect  liberty,  abundance  of  meat,  and  extent 
of  country,  and,  freed  from  the  presence  and  persecution  of  man, 
must  then  have  reached  a  size  of  which,  in  the  present  day,  we 
have  no  conception.  The  badger  is  seldom  seen  ;  and  I  was  not 
aware  that  the  otter  was  ever  seen  here,  until  last  year. 

Woods. — Along  with  the  writer  of  the  last  Statistical  Account, 
we  have  to  lament  the  want  of  woods  and  plantations.  With  these 
judiciously  scattered  through  the  parish,  and  on  the  hill-tops,  KiU 
many  would  present  a  scene  which  the  man  of  taste  would  delight 
to  contemplate.    But,  by  most  of  the  heritors,  liltle  has  been  done 
to  make  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parishes  in  Scotland.  From 
this  censure,  David  Gillespie,  Esq.,  and  John  A.  Thomson,  Esq. 
and  Captain  Pearson,  are  excepted.    Mountquhanie,  under  the 
fostering  hands  of  Mr  Gillespie,  has  become  a  splendid  residence. 
The  woods  planted  by  him,  on  the  neighbouring  hills,  to  the  north- 
west and  south,  are  yearly  adding  to  the  charms  of  his  estate.  The 
state  of  Kilmany,  in  this  respect,  was  equally  improved  by  the  cor- 
rect taste  of  the  late  Mr  Thomson.    The  hills  which  separate 
Kilmany  from  the  Tay  were  planted  by  him,  and  are  now  clothed 
with  trees.    Walks  were  cut  through  them,  from  which  the  Tay, 
the  Carse  of  Gowrie,  and  the  Angus  hills  are  seen.  Myre-Cair- 
nie-hill,  and  the  top  of  the  ridge,  which  runs  from  it  towards  the 
east,  are  completely  covered  with  wood,  affording  a  striking  object 
to  the  eye,  and  shelter,  and  climate  to  the  soil.    Whilst  on  these 
properties,  the  plantations  have  been  increased, — on  other  estates, 
they  have  been  considerably  diminished.    The  beautiful  hdl  of 
Rathillet,  which  was  covered  with  fine  dark  fir  trees,  is  now  bare 
almost  to  its  summit.    A  part  of  it  has  been  again  planted  with 
larch,  but  many  years  must  elapse  before  it  regains  its  late  splen- 
did and  romantic  appearance.   The  plantations  on  the  top  of  East 
Kinnear  are  now  being  cut.    However  much  their  removal  will 
add  to  the  arable  acres  of  the  farm,  it  does  not  improve  its  external 
appearance.    It  has  given  to  this  estate,  when  viewed  from  the 
south,  a  cold  and  bleak  aspect,  which  it  did  not  formerly  possess. 
The  old  wood  of  the  parish  is  about  the  mansion  houses  of  Mount- 
quhanie, Lochmalonie,  and  Rathillet,  &c. ;  and  some  fine  trees 


KILMANY. 


539 


are  about  the  village  and  cliurch  of  Kilmany.  The  wood  prin- 
cipally planted  is  the  larch,  the  Scotch  fir,  the  plane,  the  beech, 
and  the  ash,  with  a  few  oaks  interspersed.  They  all,  from 
their  rapid  growth,  appear  to  be  congenial  to  the  soil  and  climate. 
The  oldest  tree  is  supposed  to  be  a  plane,  which  is  still  vigorous, 
at  Hill-Cairnie. 

IL — Civil  History. 

Eminent  Men-. — Halkerstones  of  Rathillet. — The  individual  con- 
nected with  the  parish  who  holds  the  greatest  place  in  the  history  of 
his  country,  is  the  famous  but  unfortunate  David  Hackston,  or  Hal- 
kerstone  of  Rathillet.  It  is  not  known  whether  he  was  born  at  his  fa- 
mily seat;  the  records  of  the  kirk-session  do  not  go  back  so  far.  He 
appears  to  have  been  a  man  of  talent,  energy,  and  courage,  and  a 
friend  of  civil  and  religious  liberty.  He  had  great  influence  over  the 
party  with  whom  he  acted.  He  was  connected  with  the  men  who 
killed  Archbishop  Sharp  on  Magus  Muir,  although  he  was  not  actu- 
ally concerned  in  the  murder ;  for  which  crime  he  was  condemned, 
and  executed  at  Edinburgh  in  the  cruellest  and  most  barbarous 
manner.  His  descendants  possessed  a  considerable  share  of  his 
talents  and  courage.  One  of  them  was  engaged  on  the  Whig  side 
in  the  Rebellion  of  1715;  and  long  after  this  affair  was  ended, 
rode  a  fine  horse,  which  he  himself  took  from  the  enemy.  An- 
other of  them,  was  sheriff  of  the  county.  The  last  male  branch 
of  the  family  was  Mr  Helenus  Halkerston,  a  man  well  known  in 
his  day,  for  his  talents  and  eccentricity.  He  sold  the  estate  of 
Rathillet  to  a  Mr  Sweet,  upon  particular  conditions,  about  the 
year  1772  or  1773.  Since  the  death  of  Miss  Halkerston  of  Car- 
phin,  which  took  place  thirty  years  ago,  this  respectable  family  is 
extinct,  at  least  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Clergymen. — Since  the  Revolution,  this  parish  has  been  blessed 
with  several  eminent  clergymen.  Mr  Alexander  Pitcairn,  Mr 
Brown,  and  Mr  Smibert,  who  held  the  benefice  in  succession,  from 
February  23d  1697,  to  April  4th  1739,  appear  from  the  minutes 
which  were  kept  by  them  to  have  been  able  and  intelligent  men, 
and  they  died  ministers  of  Kilmany.  Mr  Joseph  M'Cormick 
succeeded  Mr  Smibert  in  April  17th  1760,  and  continued 
in  the  parish  only  for  a. few  months;  he  left  it  in  the  follow- 
ing November.  He  afterwards  published  the  Life  of  Principal 
Carstairs  of  Edinburgh,  and  died  Principal  of  the  United  College 
of  St  Andrews.  Mr  William  Gibb  was  then  ordained  minister  in 
September  24th  1761.  This  gentleman,  for  some  cause  not  stated 


540 


FIFESHIRE. 


in  the  minutes  of  session,  was  not  popular  as  a  minister,  principally, 
I  believe,  from  non-residence  in  the  parish.    A  number  of  parish- 
ioners seceded  from  the  church,  and  built  the  meeting-house  at 
Rathillet,  which  continues  to  this  day.   He  was  soon  presented  to 
the  church  of  Uphall,  by  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  and  was  succeeded 
in  May  the  10th  1764,  by  Mr  John  Adamson.    He  wasmost  popu- 
lar, not  more  from  the  eloquence  of  his  preaching  than  the  excel- 
lence of  his  private  character,  and  the  kindness  of  his  heart.  Mr 
Adamson  was  called  to  a  much  wider  field  of  usefulness,  to  the 
second  charge  of  St  Andrews,  in  October  1772.    He  died  in 
1808,  first  minister  of  that  city,  and  Professor  of  Civil  History  in 
the  United  College.    He  was  succeeded  by  Mr  Andrew  Hutton, 
from  Cults,  an  amiable  man,  a  conscientious  minister,  and  a  con- 
siderable antiquary,  who  died  at  Kilmany  1792.  He  was  succeed- 
ed by  my  late  brother,  Mr  John  Cook,  of  whose  talents  and  ac- 
quirements, and  virtues,  it  would  be  indelicate  for  me,  who  loved 
and  revered  him  from  my  infancy,  to  speak.    He  left  the  parish 
in  1802,  for  the  Hebrew  Chair  at  St  Andrews,  and  died  in  1824, 
after  having  filled  the  divinity  chair  of  St  Mary's  from  1808.  He 
published  in  1821  his  "  Inquiry  into  the  Books  of  the  New  Tes- 
tament," which  contains  the  substance  of  a  very  small  part  of  his 
course  of  lectures  on  theology.    He  was  succeeded  in  May  13th 
1803,  by  even  then  the  brilliant  and  accomplished  Mr  Thomas 
Chalmers,  and  now  the  well-known  and  justly  celebrated  Professor 
of  Divinity  in  Edinburgh.  This  distinguished  clergyman,  who  was 
beloved  and  admired  by  all  classes  of  the  community,  and  whose  name 
is  still  dear  to  every  one  who  sat  under  his  ministry,  discharged  the 
duties  of  this  sequestered  parish  until  July  1815.    His  first  works 
were  written  and  published  while  he  was  minister  of  Kilmany.  The 
present  incumbent  has  enjoyed  this  benefice,  since  September  28th 
1815.    It  would  be  unfair,  in  this  place,  to  pass  in  silence  the  late 
Rev.  John  Tindal,  Minister  at  Rathillet.    By  nature,  he  was  a 
man  of  a  sound  and  vigorous  mind,  and  of  the  most  amiable  and 
generous  dispositions.    He  assiduously  cultivated  the  talents  with 
which  he  was  gifted,  and  had  acquired  a  great  store  of  varied  and 
extensive  information.    He  died  in  September  15th  1836. 

Land-owners. — The  landed  proprietors,  according  to  their  va- 
lued rent,  are  the  following  gentlemen : — David  Gillespie,  Esq. 
of  Kirkton  and  Mountquhanie,  the  principal  heritor ;  John  A. 
Thomson,  Esq.  of  Charleton  and  Kilmany,  &c. ;  Charles  Kinnear, 
Esq.  of  Kinnearand  Kinloch  ;  Robert  Russell,  Esq.  of  Hill-Cairnie  • 


KILMANY. 


I 

64.1 


Dnvid  Carswells,  Esq.  of  Rathillet ;  Captain  Hugh  Pearson,  R.  N.of 
Myre-Cairnie  ;  James  Horsburgh,  of  Lochmalonie  ;  Henry  Wed- 
derburn,  Esq.  of  Birkhill,  &c.  and  W.  Kinnear  ;  Henry  Inglis, 
Esq.  of  Newington ;  Mrs  Robertson  of  Ballendean  and  Newbig- 
ging  ;  and  John  Inghs,  Esq.  of  Colluthie.  Only  a  few  acres  of  Mr 
Inglis'  property  are  in  Kilmany  parish. 

Parochial  Begisters. — The  parochial  registers  T  examined  with 
great  care  in  November  1828,  and  I  then  made  the  following  mi- 
nute with  regard  to  them  :  Kilmany,  November  16th  1828,  "  I 
have  examined  with  considerable  care  the  records  of  the  session  of 
Kilmany,  and  I  have  found  them  wonderfully  complete,  notwith- 
standing their  present  miserable  condition.    They  have  been  ori- 
ginally bound  up  as  a  volume ;  but  at  this  date  they  consist  of  se- 
parate sheets  and  leaves.    When  they  were  put  into  my  posses- 
sion, they  were  in  great  disorder,  and  it  required  nearly  a  week's 
labour  to  put  them  into  their  present  condition.    A  considerable 
part  of  them  are  consumed  with  damp  and  bad  care.    The  mark- 
ing of  the  pages  is  gone ;  and  I  am  afraid,  that,  in  their  present 
wasted  state,  they  will  not  keep  together  for  many  years.  The 
paper  is  so  much  consumed,  that  they  cannot  be  bound  into  a  vo- 
lume.   All  that  I  can  do  to  preserve  them  after  being  arranged 
is  to  enclose  them  in  a  portfolio.  They  commence  1st  of  Novem- 
ber 1696,  and  they  go  down  to  1729  ;  the  month  at  which  they 
close,  is  worn  off.    In  the  records  there  is  a  blank  from  October 
31st  1697  to  June  1st  1701  ;  also  a  leaf  of  distribution  of  kirk- 
session  1728.    I  have  observed  in  these  early  records  of  the  kirk- 
session  no  other  blank.    I  have  put  the  registers  of  births  toge- 
ther at  the  end.    They  consist  of  three  fragments.    The  first  of 
the  register  of  births  begins  May  5th  1706,  and  is  very  accurate, 
although  a  good  deal  decayed,  until  August  18th  1710.    The  se- 
cond portion  of  the  register  of  births  commences  November  18th 
1711,  (leaving  a  blank  from  August  1710,)  and  continues  regular 
although  much  wasted  at  the  bottoms  of  the  pages,  until  October 
12th  1718.  Third  portion  of  the  registers  of  births  commences  No- 
vember 18th  1721,  (leaving  a  blank  from  October  1718,)  and  it 
goes  down  to  1727.    This  is  in  far  worse  condition  than  the  other 
two.  It  is  so  much  wasted  that  I  could  not  ascertain  the  particular 
month  in  1717,  when  it  closes.    The  records  which  I  have  exa- 
mined and  described  begin,  as  before  stated,  November  1696, 
and  come  down  to  1729."    This  volume  of  minutes  of  session  has 
been  long  in  bad  condition.    So  far  back  as  when  Mr  Adamson 


542 


FIFESHIRE. 


was  elected  minister  in  1 764,  it  is  stated,  that  the  session-clerk 
produced  "  an  old  illegible  book  of  minutes,  about  the  year  1669 
-70,*  &c.  a  book  in  which  were  contained  a  register  of  baptisms,  &c. 
from  November  1696  to  December  1729,  inclusive,  and  minute  of 
discipline,  collections,  distributions  of  the  same  dates ;"  another 
book,  containing  a  register  of  baptisms,  &c.  from  January  1730, 
to  the  present  time,  and  minutes  of  collections  and  distributions 
from  January  1730  to  December  1728,  inclusive,  and  discipline 
by  itself,  from  January  1749  to  the  present  time  ;  another  book 
containing  only  minutes  of  collections  and  distributions  from  Ja- 
nuary 1749  to  the  present  time."    These  are  all  in  existence. 
They  were  most  accurately  kept  by  Mr  Adamson.    They  have 
been  continued  to  the  present  day,  except  minutes  of  discipline. 
Since  Mr  Adamson's  time,  until  very  lately,  this  part  of  the  pa- 
rish registers  has  been  completely  neglected.    No  entry  has  been 
made  with  regard  to  any  meetings  which  have  taken  place  betwixt 
the  heritors  and  kirk-session. 

Little  is  known  of  the  ecclesiastical  state  of  the  parish  before 
1697.    From  a  monument  lately  turned  up  in  the  church-yard,  it 
appears  that  a  Master  James  Thomson  was  minister  of  Kilmany  for 
forty-two  years  previous  to  1646.  He  died  in  that  year  aged  seventy- 
eight  ;  and  it  adds,  and  "  that  of  his  beloved  wife,  Besse  Smith, 
with  whom  he  lived  forty-one  years,  Deo  Lavs,  amen."  No  tradi- 
tion remains  in  the  parish  with  regard  to  this  reverend  gentleman. 
In  Limond's  Diary,  a  Mr  George  Thomson  is  mentionedasminister 
of  Kilmany,  and  dying  there  about  1655.    But  whoever  were 
the  ministers  of  Kilmany  previous  to  1697,  it  is  evident  from  a 
minute  of  session,  May  7th  1707,  that  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
supper  for  a  long  time  had  not  been  regularly  dispensed.  These 
are  the  words  of  it :  "  Being  Wednesday  the  session  met,  and 
considering  that  this  congregation  has  long  wanted  the  benefit  of 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper,  the  minister  (Mr  Brown) 
did  intimate  to  them  his  design  of  celebrating  that  solemn  ordi- 
nance ;  and  the  session  considering  what  may  be  the  most  proper 
season  for  it,  did  condescend  upon  the  last  Sabbath  of  June  next ;  and 
farther  considering  that  the  communion  tables  were  all  broken  and 
gone  to  ruin,  the  session  recommends  it  to  the  minister  and  elders 
in  the  town  of  Kilmany  to  agree  with  James  Miles,  wright,  to  buy 
timber,  and  make  up  the  said  tables,  and  to  mend  some  parts  of 

•  I  never  saw  the  old  illegible  book  of  minutes  about  the  year  1699-70.  The 
earliest  which  was  put  in  my  possession  was  1st  of  November  1696. 


KILMANY, 


543 


the  pulpit  that  is  decayed,  and  to  do  other  things  needful  about 
the  church.  And  the  session  farther  recommends  to  the  minis- 
ter, to  write  to  the  provost  of  the  Old  College,  either  to  furnish  the 
communion  elements,  or  allow  a  fund  to  buy  them,  being,  it  is 
said,  that  the  Old  College  was  in  use  and  wont  so  to  do,  and  being 
proprietors  of  the  tithes  of  the  parish,  are  obliged  to  allow  a  fund 
for,  or  else  provide  elements  for,  the  use  of  the  parish."  Upon 
this  solemn  occasion,  "  Elizabeth  Forrester,  Lady  Mountwhanie, 
spouse  to  James  Crawford  of  Mountwhanie,  did  provide  the  pul- 
pit with  a  covering,  together  with  a  good  silk  fringe,  and  other 
things  belonging  thereto ;  as  also  she  did  give  as  much  fine  linen 
as  served  for  the  use  of  the  table  cloaths  at  the  Sacrament.  The 
session,  out  of  gratitude  to  the  said  lady,  did  order  the  recording 
of  this  in  the  minutes."  It  is  stated  in  the  minutes  of  June,  the 
Sth,  "  the  provost  of  the  Old  College  declines  to  allow  a  fund,  or 
afford  communion  elements.  The  session  recommends  to  the  mi- 
nister to  take  advice  what  means  must  be  used  to  obtain  a  fund 
for  this  purpose  in  time  coming."  June  22d,  the  session  met,  in- 
timation was  made  this  day,  that  the  fast  day  before  the  sacra- 
ment was  to  be  on  Wednesday  next.  The  sacrament  was  dis- 
pensed on  the  29th  of  June.  The  session  met  on  the  2d  of  July  ; 
"  the  minister  reported  that  he  had  taken  advice  what  method 
must  be  used  for  obtaining  a  fund  for  providing  the  communion 
elements,  and  that  the  advice  was,  that  there  was  no  other  way  but 
to  raise  a  process  before  the  Session  Lords,  now  Commissioners  for 
Plantation  of  Kirks  and  Valuation  of  Teinds,  and  that  he  was  resolved, 
when  a  fair  opportunity  offered,  to  take  that  method,  both  with 
respect  to  his  stipend  and  the  communion  elements.  The  session, 
considering  that  the  minister's  stipend,  being  but  a  scrimp  enough 
maintenance,  could  not  allow  of  paying  the  elements  out  of  it,  they 
unanimously  agreed  to  pay  them  out  of  the  collections,  gathered  at 
the  sacrament,  until  a  fund  shall  be  otherwise  provided."  In  July 
6th  1714,  the  session  met,  and  the  minister  represented  to  them  that 
he  had  at  last,  after  a  long  depending  process,  obtained  a  decreet  of 
modification  and  locality  of  his  stipend  ;  wherein  a  fund  is  provided 
for  communion  elements,  which  he  pays  out  of  the  same,  and  so  the 
poor's  box  will  be  no  longer  burdened  with  the  payment  of  communion 
elements. 

In  the  minutes,  there  is  nothing  particularly  interesting  to 
the  general  reader.  In  November  Sth  1704,  the  session  gave  to 
Daniel  Guines,  as  encouragement  for  setting  up  a  printing-house 


544 


FIFESHIRE. 


in  Dundee,  14s.  In  May  5th  1709,  a  collection  was  ordered  for 
those  whose  houses  were  burnt  in  Edinburgh.  "  In  October  23d 
1747,  the  session  met,  and  the  minister  represented  that  the  rebels 
having  been  in  his  house  several  times  during  the  late  rebeilion, 
and  carried  off  some  of  his  effects,  he  had  put  in  places  he  thought 
they  would  not  suspect,  some  papers  of  value  in  his  custody,  particu- 
larly a  bill  of  seventeen  pounds  sterling,  belonging  to  the  kirk-ses- 
sion, and  that  he  could  not  recover  the  said  bill."  As  this  bill  was 
afterwards  renewed  by  the  person  who  owed  it,  the  kirk-session  lost 
nothing  by  this  depredation  of  the  rebels.  . 

The  Lawries  of  Hill  Cairnie  are  the  oldest  residenters  in  the  pa- 
rish. They  have  lived  upon  the  same  farm  for  118  years,  and, 
from  1720  to  1834,  they  were  members  of  the  kirk-session.  The 
first,  Mr  David  Lawrie,  was  admitted  into  the  session  of  Kilmany 
in  1720.  His  son,  Mr  David  Lawrie,  was  elected  an  elder  in  1766; 
and  his  son,  Mr  David  Lawrie,  (who  died  1834,)  in  May  the  5th 
1814. 

Antiquities. — Kilmany  is  not  remarkable  for  the  number  of  its 
antiquities  ;  and  there  are  no  traditions  with  regard  to  those  which 
exist.  A  considerable  number  of  stone  coffins  have  been  dug  up 
behind  the  farm-house  of  Starr.  A  few  earthen  vessels  with  bones 
were  found  on  the  farm  of  Drumnod,  and  one  of  the  same  descrip- 
tion at  Kilmany.  Some  of  these  were  of  the  rudest  construction, 
and  others  of  them  displayed  more  refinement  of  taste,  and  more 
elegance  of  workmanship.  Those  found  at  Drumnod  were  in  the 
possession  of  Dr  Fleming  of  Aberdeen,  when  he  was  minister  of 
Flisk ;  and  Mr  Edie,  Kilmany,  had  a  part  of  the  urn  found  on 
his  farm,  for  many  years.  Coins  have  been  occasionally  picked  up 
at  Myre-Cairnie  and  Hill-Cairnie,  of  different  sizes  and  value. 
These  I  never  saw,  and  there  are  none  of  them,  as  far  as  I  know, 
in  the  possession  of  any  individual  in  the  parish. 

Modern  Buildings. — The  house  of  Mountquhanie,  built  by  the 
late  Mr  Gillespie,  is  an  elegant  modern  structure,  on  a  fine  com- 
manding situation  looking  to  the  south.  The  policy  around  it  is  kept 
in  excellent  order,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  grounds  about 
it  is  improving  in  beauty  every  year.  The  other  houses  of  resident 
heritors  are  neat  and  commodious,  and  suited  to  their  circumstan- 
ces, to  the  extent  of  their  families,  or  to  their  individual  tastes. 

III. — Population. 
The  population  of  Kilmany  has  been  decreasing  for  many  years. 
This  arises  from  the  enlargement  of  the  farms,  from  the  want  of 

4 


KILMANY. 


545 


ground  for  telling,  and  from  the  introduction  of  machinery  for  bodi- 
ly and  manual  labour.    In  the  last  Statistical  Account  it  is  stated, 
there  are  now  living  in  the  parish  396  males  and  473  females. 
When  the  census  was  taken  in  1821,  the  population  was  751,345 
males  and  406  females.    In  1831  it  had  fallen  to  707,  334  males 
and  373  females,  and  since  that  date  it  is  as  low  as  685  or  ,690. 
From  the  time  when  the  last  Statistical  Account  was  written,  thrash- 
ing-mills have  been  universally  introduced,  and  have  led  to  a  consi- 
derable diminution  of  the  population ;  and  individuals  with  large  fa- 
milies naturally  retire  from  a  parish,  where  there  are  no  manufacto-  . 
ries,  to  towns  and  places  where  they  can  obtain  employment  for  their 
children.  The  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  has  been  15, 
of  marriages  3 ;  of  deaths  it  is  not  so  easy  to  speak  accurately, 
as  some  die  in  the  parish  who  are  buried  elsewhere,  and  many  of 
the  dead  from  other  parishes  are  buried  in  Kilmany  churchyard. 
This  will  appear  evident  from  the  following  statement :  There 
have  been  buried  at  Kilmany,  for  the  last  seven  years,  106;  of 
this  number  only  45  have  died  in  the  parish.    Those  who  died 
here,  and  were  buried  elsewhere,  are  not  recorded  in  our  register. 
I  should  think  that  twelve  is  a  fair  average  of  those  who  have  died 
in  the  parish  for  the  last  seven  years. 

The  average  number  of  persons  under  ]  5  years,       .  .  240 

betwixt  15  and  20,        -  -  203 

30  and  50,    -  .  159 

50  and  70,       -  -  68 

70  and  upwards,  -  14 

There  are  no  noblemen  in  Kilmany  parish. 

Number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  yearly  value,  L.  50  and  upwards,  -  9 

The  number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  above  50,  1 1 

Unmarried  women  upwards  of  45,           -          .           .          .  21 

Number  of  families,            -           .            .          _          _  237 

of  inhabited  houses,        -          -          -           .  jgy 

of  uninhabited,           -            .           .           .        ,  5 

Illegitimate  children  for  the  last  three  and  a-half  years,        .  _  9 

The  inhabitants,  from  the  profession  which  they  follow,  and  from 
their  temperate  habits,  are  healthy  and  strong,  and  many  of  them 
reach  to  very  advanced  age.  Since  1830,  there  have  died  eleven 
individuals,  whose  united  ages  amounted  to  924  years ;  the  average 
age  of  each,  84. 

From  an  early  period,  Kilmany  has  been  an  agricultural  parish, 
and  Its  population  possessed  of  much  natural  talent,  great  industry, 
and  pious  and  amiable  dispositions.  Every  clergyman  who  has  la-, 
boured  amongst  them,  has  had  good  reason  to  bear  testimony  to 
their  piety  and  correct  conduct,  and  has  received  from  them,  many 

ivx  m 


54G 


FIFESIIIRE. 


marks  of  affection  and  esteem.  This  amiable  feature  in  their 
character,  has  hitherto  been  general. 

IV. — Industry. 
The  number  of  males  employed  in  agriculture  is  120.  They 
may  be  thus  divided :  proprietors  farming  their  estates  or  part  of 
them,  5;  tenants,  12;  cottars  or  agricultural  married  servants,  37; 
unmarried  do.,  66;  total,  120.  The  industry  of  the  parish  in 
other  respects  may  be  estimated  from  the  following  statement : 
day  labourers,  ]  8 ;  weavers,  10;  wrights,  2  masters,  workmen  and 
apprentices,  11  ;  sawyers,  5;  smiths,  6  masters,  workmen  and  ap- 
prentices, 4 ;  publican,  1 ;  toll-keeper,  1  ;  tailors,  2  masters,  ap- 
prentice 1 ;  masons,  3 ;  gardeners,  2  masters,  workmen  and  ap- 
prentices, 4 ;  grocers  in  a  small  way,  2  ;  millers,  3,  assistants,  &c. 
3 ;  beadle,  1 ;  shoemakers,  3  masters,  workmen  and  apprentices, 
6;  ministers,  1  Established,  1  Secession;  parochial  schoolmas- 
ter 1,  schoolmistresses,  2;  butler,  gamekeeper,  &c.  5;  retired,  3; 
total,  101. 

There  is  no  large  manufactory  in  the  parish.  The  weavers  are 
employed  at  home  work,  and  when  this  cannot  be  obtained,  they 
are  supplied  with  Osnaburgh,  or  other  cloth,  by  the  merchants  of 
Dundee  and  Cupar ;  or  by  their  agents  in  the  country.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  number  who  weave,  mentioned  above,  there  are  seve- 
ral females  who  occupy  themselves  in  this  manner,  during  the  win- 
ter. In  summer,  they  generally  give  up  this  work  when  the  farm- 
ers need  their  assistance. 

The  only  branch  of  industry,  except  agriculture,  which  is  carried 
on  to  any  extent,  is  a  saw-mill,  which  was  some  years  ago  erected 
by  Mr  Thomson  of  Charleton.  It  has  been  occupied,  ever  since  it 
was  built,  by  Mr  William  Malcolm,  wright.  During  the  course  of 
the  year,  it  is  by  him  actively  employed,  and  cuts  down  a  consi- 
derable quantity  of  wood.  Its  power  is  not  sufficiently  strong  for 
large  trees,  but  it  is  admirably  adapted  for  cutting  paling,  for  pre- 
paring wood  for  sheep  flakes,  and  for  converting  inferior  timber 
into  staves  for  herring  barrels.  Many  thousands  of  these  are  an- 
nually sent  from  this  mill  to  Leith,  and  other  places  on  the  Forth 
where  herrings  are  cured. 

Agriculture. — The  whole  of  this  parish  is  arable,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  hill  tops,  which  are  planted.  The  number  of  cul- 
tivated acres  is  about  3550  Scotch,  or  by  imperial  measure,  4477. 
There  is  no  land  which  continues  waste,  or  in  a  state  of  natural 
pasture.    There  is  no  undivided  common.    The  number  of  acres 


KILMANV. 


547 


planted  is  not  above  150  acres  Scotch,  or  190  imperial  measure. 
The  trees  which  are  planted  are  the  Scotch  fir,  the  larch,  the 
beech,  with  an  intermixture  of  a  few  ash,  plane,  and  oak. 

Bent— The  average  rent  of  the  arable  land  is  about  L.2,  5s.  to 
L.  2,  ]  Os.  per  acre ;  that  of  grazing  is  at  the  rate  of  L.  3  per  ox, 
or  cow,  and  of  12s.  per  ewe,  or  full-grown  sheep  for  the  season. 

Waffes,— The  wages  of  married  farm-servants  are  from  L.  9  to 
L.  12,  with  house  and  garden,  6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  9  bolls  of  po- 
tatoes per  annum,  and  1  pint  of  sweet  milk  daily;  of  unmarried 
servants  living  in  bothies,  L.  10  to  L.  11,  with  the  same  allowance 
of  oatmeal  and  milk ;  and  potatoes  for  supper.  Fuel  and  bed- 
clothes are  afforded  by  their  masters.  In  winter  the  rate  of  com- 
irjon  labourers  is  from  8s.  to  9s.  per  week;  in  summer  from  9s. 
to  lis.  Artisans  vary  from  10s.  to  16s.  per  week.  Women  for 
agricultural  work  8d.  without  meat;  do.  for  washing,  Is.  with  meat, 
but  the  hours  are  long. 

Gram.— Varieties  of  seed  used,  and  the  quantity  sown  per 
Scotch  acre  :  meat— White  do.  now  principally  Hunter's;  little 
red  do.;  quantity  sown  per  Scotch  acre,  4  bushels.    Barley  Enff- 
Chevalier  do.  much  used,  and  approved  of;  the  only  objec- 
tion against  it,  is  its  being  ten  days  later  of  ripening  than  other 
varieties;  quantity  sown  per  acre  from  5  to  6  bushels.    Oa^s.— Po- 
tatoe  do.  early  Angus,  common,  and  lately  introduced,  and  much 
esteemed  Hopetoun  do.    Quantity  of  seed  per  acre  from  6  to  8 
bushels.  Potatoes.— The  Devonshire  red,  and  the  Perthshire  red, 
the  most  popular  in  the  London  market.   There  were  fewer  failures 
in  the  crop  of  Devonshire  red,  in  this  neighbourhood,  than  of 
any  other  variety.  A  few  blue  Dons  are  planted,  more  of  Glasgow 
buffs,  and  almost  no  white  species.  When  raised,  they  are  for  home 
consumption.    Quantity  used  for  seed  per  acre,  from  3  to  4  bolls. 
Turnips.~Yov  early  use,  white  globe  and  red,  for  standing  dur- 
ing the  winter  and  spring,  green  top  yellow,  Aberdeenshire  yellow, 
hybrid,  and  a  few  Swedes.    Quantity  used  for  seed  per  acre,  2 
to  2|  lbs.    Grass.— Annual  and  perennial  rye-grass,  1  to  2  bushels 
per  acre;  red  clover  from  10  to  12  lbs.  per  do.    Some  farmers 
sow  along  with  it  2  lbs.  of  white.    When  laid  down  for  pasture  4 
lbs.  of  red,  with  5  to  6  lbs.  of  white  clover. 
_  Live-stock.— The  breeds  of  sheep  which  are  raised,  or  bought 
in  to  feed,  are  the  Leicester,  Cheviot,  and  Highland  kinds.  There 
are  about  1000  of  the  above  varieties  annually  fed  for  the  butcher 
upon  turnips.    The  breed  of  cattle  is  the  original  Fife  one,  or  as 


548 


FIFESHIRE. 


near  it,  as  can  now  be  obtained.  Some  years  ago,  the  Teeswater, 
or  short-horned  breed,  was  introduced,  and  some  very  fine  cattle 
were  raised  from  it.  They  were  profitable  to  the  breeder,  from  his 
being  able  to  sell  them  fat,  a  year  sooner,  than  the  Fife  and  Angus 
kinds.  But  they  are  too  fine,  and  delicate  for  our  climate,  and 
pasture.  They  have  a  tendency  to  degenerate,  unless  they  are 
kept  up  at  a  great  expense,  or  the  breed  renewed  from  warmer 
and  richer  soils.  The  original  breed  of  the  county,  if  equally  at- 
tended to,  although  kept  to  a  greater  age,  affords  a  richer  article 
to  the  butcher,  and  is  nearly,  if  not  altogether,  as  profitable  to  the 
farmer.  A  cross  betwixt  the  Teeswater  and  the  Fife  breed  is 
generally  considered  an  advantageous  one.  The  stock  thus  rais- 
ed, if  placed  in  favourable  circumstances,  acquire  a  greater  weight 
than  the  pure  Fife  breed,  and,  although  more  delicate,  are  sooner 
ready  for  the  market.  There  are  about  200  cattle  of  various  kinds 
raised  in  the  parish  annually,  and  the  most  of  them  are  sold  fat, 
about  three  years  of  age.  There  are  few  horses  raised  for  the 
market.  Those  bred  for  agricultural  purposes  are  strong  and  hand- 
some. 

Rotation  of  Crops.— On  the  best  soils  the  following  five  shift  is 
common  :  1.  Fallow  or  green  crop  ;  2.  wheat ;  3.  barley  sown  down 
with  grass  seeds ;  4.  grass  cut,  or  pastured ;  5.  oats.  This  is  a 
severe  rotation,  and  has  a  tendency  in  the  course  of  years  to  wear 
out  the  best  of  land.  It  can  be  justified  only  from  the  want  of  en- 
closures, which  prevents  the  farmer  from  adopting,  as  he  would 
wish  to  do,  the  stock  husbandry.  This  is  gradually  giving  way  to 
the  six  shift,  which,  in  every  agricultural  point  of  view,  is  supe- 
rior to  it,  although  at  first  less  profitable.  1.  Fallow,  or  green 
crop  2.  wheat ;  3.  pease  or  beans,  or  turnips  manured  with  bones, 
and  eaten  off  with  sheep ;  4.  barley  with  grass  seeds ;  5.  grass 
cut,  or  pastured ;  6.  oats.  This  rotation  would  be  much  improv- 
ed, by  allowing  the  land  to  lie  in  pasture  for  two  or  three  years 
after  barley,  and  would  be  unquestionably  so,  if  the  farms  were 
properly  enclosed.  There  is  little  land  in  the  parish  which  can- 
not bear  this  last  course.  Where  it  does  exist,  barley  is  substituted 
for  wheat ;  then,  white'  and  green  crops  alternately,  and  pasture 
for  several  years. 

Great  improvements  have  been  made  within  the  last  forty  years, 
in  ploughing  and  draining;  and  they  are  still  proceeding.  Furrow 
draining,  which  promises  such  happy  results,  has  been  introduced, 
and  will  in  a  short  time  be  carried  to  a  great  extent.  The  subsoil 


KILMANY. 


549 


plough  has  also  been  set  to  work.  These  united  will  improve  the 
wet  and  retentive  lands.  They  will  free  them  from  extra  moisture, 
give  them  depth  of  soil,  and  prepare  them  for  the  reception  of 
lime  and  manure.  Another  great  improvement  which  has  been 
introduced  within  the  last  few  years  is  the  application  of  bones 
for  fertihzing  the  soil.  This  manure  is  admirably  adapted  for 
high  dry  fields. 

The  leases  extend  to  the  period  of  nineteen  years,  and  the  nature 
and  conditions  of  them  are  generally  considered  fair  for  proprie- 
tor and  tenant, — perhaps  an  extension  of  them  to  twenty-four  years 
would  be  still  more  advantageous  to  both  parties.  The  farm 
houses  and  steadings  are,  in  a  majority  of  cases,  good,  and,  by  the 
liberality  of  the  [)roprietors,  are  improving  every  year. 

Rathillet  mill  presents  an  obstacle  for  improving  one  part  of  the 
parish.  Its  dam-dike  prevents  a  proper  level  from  being  carried 
through  the  low  lands  of  West  Rathillet,  and  Mountquhanie,  and 
Stair.  The  fields  lying  along  this  part  of  the  Motray,  which  from 
.  their  situation,  should  be  the  most  productive  in  the  parish,  are  almost 
always  damp,  and  do  not  bear  the  crops  of  which  they  are  capable. 
They  are  also  exposed  to  be  occasionally  flooded.  Were  this  ob- 
stacle removed,  and  the  lands  properly  drained,  the  difference  be- 
twixt the  crops,  which  are  now,  and  which  would  be  raised  upon 
these  fields,  would  amply  remunerate  the  heritors  interested,  in  a 
very  few  years.  All  such  obstacles  are  removed  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  parish,  and  the  consequence  is,  that  the  banks  of  the  Motray, 
which  were  once  marshy  and  of  little  value,  are  now  dry,  and  pro- 
duce excellent  crops  of  grain  and  the  best  of  pasture.  What  are 
called  the  Greens  and  the  Haughs  of  Kilmany,  were  also  occasion- 
ally overflowed  with  water.  This  was  corrected  some  years  ago,  by 
giving  the  Motray  a  new  and  a  wider  course,  betwixt  the  mill  and 
the  church  of  Kilmany. 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in 
the  parish,  in  as  far  as  it  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows : 

Produce  of  all  kinds  of  grain  cultivated  for  food  of  man  or  the  domestic 

animals,  -  .  .  .  ]  3,800 

of  potatoes  turnips,  &c.  cultivated  in  the  fields  for  food,  -  3,800 
of  hay  almost  all  cultivated.  -  ...  140O 

of  land  in  pasture  rating  it  at  L.  3  per  cow  or  full-grown  ox, 
grazed,  or  that  may  he  grazed  for  the;season,  at  12s.  perewe, 
or  full  grown  sheep  pastured  or  may  be  pastured  for  the  year,  1200 
of  annual  thinning  and  periodical  felling  of  woods,  plantations,  &c.  40 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce  raised,  -  L.  20,240 

Farms,  and  the  nafMre  of  their  soil  and  capabilities. — East  Kin- 


550 


FIFESHIRE. 


i 


near  has  various  soils.  In  the  lower  parts,  it  is  sandy,  with  some 
moss  along  the  banks  of  Motray.  The  higher  fields  are  not 
composed  of  a  deep  but  of  a  sharp  light  soil.  The  best  lands 
of  ][Cinnear  are  not  so  strong  as  to  resist  extreme  drought.  It 
suffered  much  from  this  cause  in  1826.  It  is  naturally  adapted 
for  sheep,  and  cattle,  more  than  a  continued  rotation  of  culmi- 
ferous  and  leguminous  crops.  It  has  been  most  judiciously  and 
completely  divided  into  parks,  and  enclosed  with  substantial  whin- 
stone  dikes.  This  improvement  has  added  greatly  to  the  produce 
of  the  farm.  By  the  assistance  of  these  parks,  and  by  grazing, 
excellent  crops  have  been  lately  raised  upon  inferior  land ;  and 
first-rate  cattle  and  sheep  have  been  brought  to  the  market. 

The  next  farm  to  the  west  is  Little  Kinnear,  the  property  of 
Henry  Wedderburn,  Esq.  of  Birkhill.  It  is  a  small  one,  but 
valuable  from  its  soil,  its  climate,  and  situation.  It  requires  only 
to  be  enclosed,  to  become  a  first-rate  farm  for  its  size.  The  up- 
per land,  although  thin,  lies  upon  a  whinstone  bottom.  To  the 
west  of  Little  Kinnear,lies  the  estate  of  Kilmany,  belonging  to 
John  A.  Thomson,  Esq.  of  Charleton.  It  is  divided  into  three 
farms  ; — East  and  West  Kilmany  ; — and  Muir  Craig,  on  the  top 
of  the  hill,  which  separates  Kilmany  from  Balmerino  and  the  Tay. 
The  two  first  farms  have  always  been  considered  excellent  ones, 
and  capable  of  raising  all  kinds  of  crops.  They  are  more  adapt- 
ed for  wheat,  than  either  of  the  Kinnears.  Their  soil  is  various. 
Upon  the  Motray  it  is  a  deep  rich  loam.  In  wet  seasons,  this 
part  of  it  raises  great  quantities  of  straw;  but  the  quantity  and 
the  quality  of  the  grain  do  not  correspond  with  the  bulk  of  fod- 
der. This  was  particularly  the  case  in  1817  ;  but  in  drier  seasons 
it  produces  heavy  crops  of  straw  and  corn.  Another  part  of  it  is 
a  fine  sharp  soil  lying  on  trap,  which  yields  an  excellent  boll,  for 
the  quantity  of  fodder,  which  is  in  some  seasons  deficient.  There 
is  another  part  of  it,  moorish,  and  of  little  value  to  the  farmer.  This 
is  the  tract  of  land  lying  betwixt  the  manse  and  glebe,  and  the 
east  march  of  Rathillet.  This  part  of  the  property,  by  the  subsoil 
plough,  furrow  draining,  and,  above  all  things,  by  enclosures,  may 
be  much  improved,  and,  in  the  course  of  time,  may  become,  if  not 
fertile,  at  least  a  convenient  piece  of  ground  to  the  tenant.  The 
Muir  Craigs  is  a  hill  farm,  and,  as  its  name  denotes,  there  is  in  it 
a  considerable  quantity  of  indifferent  land ;  but  of  late  years,  it 
has  been  much  improved,  and  is  in  the  way  of  being  still  better 


KILMANY. 


551 


cultivated.  The  value  of  the  whole  of  this  estate  would  be  much 
enhanced,  if  it  was  as  completely  inclosed  as  East  Kinnear. 

To  the  west  of  Kilmany  is  the  estate  of  Rathillet,  which  was 
long  in  the  possession  of  the  Halkerstones ;  but,  for  the  last  sixty 
years,  has  been  the  propefVty  of  the  grandfather,  and  father  of  the 
present  laird,  David  Carswell,  Esq.  It  is  one  of  the  largest,  and, 
upon  the  whole,  one  of  the  best  farms  in  the  parish.  It  was  well 
enclosed  by  a  Mr  Sweet,  who  purchased  it  from  Mr  Halkerston, 
with  hedge-rows  interspersed  with  ash  trees,  and  in  this  respect 
it  took  the  lead,  in  substantial  improvements,  of  the  rest  of  the  pa- 
rish, by  nearly  half  a  century.  The  soil,  generally  speaking,  is 
not  so  well  adapted  for  wheat  as  Kilmany,  and  of  the  other  farms 
which  are  still  to  be  mentioned  ;  but  for  barley,  and  for  raising  cat- 
tle, it  has  few  equals  in  this  or  in  the  neighbouring  districts.  To  the 
north  of  Rathillet,  is  Newbigging,  part  of  the  property  of  Mrs  Robert- 
son of  Ballendean;  it  contains  some  good  and  some  indifferent  land. 

The  estate  of  Mountquhanie,  belonging  to  David  Gillespie, 
Esq.  of  Kirkton,  originally  containing  the  farms  of  Stirton,  Mount- 
quhanie, and  Drumnod,  lies  to  the  north-west  of  Rathillet.  Of 
these,  the  soil  of  Stirton  is  the  poorest.  It  is  thin  cold  land,  with 
a  retentive  subsoil.  It  is  not  enclosed.  Little,  for  many  years,  was 
done  upon  this  farm.  The  proprietor  took  it  into  his  own  hands 
some  years  ago.  He  drove  lime  to  it,  and  in  some  degree  drained 
it.  With  these  improvements,  it  was  lately  let  to  an  active  tenant, 
who  will  employ  skill  and  capital  to  increase  its  productive  powers. 
Mountquhanie  and  Drumnod  contain  excellent  sharp  land,  (a  part 
of  it  upon  whinstone  bottom,)  and  are  highly  cultivated. 

To  the  south  of  Mountquhanie,  are  the  farms  of  Starr  and  of  the 
Cairnies,  Murdoch  and  New  Cairnie.  These  by  purchase  were  add- 
ed to  the  Mountquhanie  estate  by  the  late  Mr  Gillespie.  They  con- 
tain some  of  the  best  land  in  the  parish.  They  are  fit  to  raise  every 
species  of  crop,  and  equally  adapted  for  the  feeding  of  cattle.  To 
the  west  of  Murdoch  Cairnie  is  the  estate  of  Newington,  belong- 
ing to  Henry  Inglis,  Esq.  Only  part  of  Mr  Inglis'  property  is  in 
Kilmany ;  the  rest  of  it,  is  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Moonzie.  It 
originally  formed  part  of  the  Cairnie  estate,  and  is  distinguished 
for  a  rich  deep  soil.  Lochmalonie,  the  estate  of  James  Horsburgh, 
Esq.  lies  to  the  south  of  Rathillet,  and  is  bounded  by  it  on  the 
north  and  west.  The  soil  of  Lochmalonie  is  various.  About  the 
mansion-house,  and  farm-steading,  it  is  excellent.  The  higher 
grounds  to  the  south,  are  of  inferior  quality.    It  is  cold  with  a  re- 


552 


FIFESHIRE. 


tentive  subsoil.  This  part  of  the  property  was  much  improved, 
by  its  late  amiable,  judicious,  and  justly  esteemed  proprietor,  Major 
Horsburgh.  He  trenched  a  considerable  part  of  it;  and  one  field, 
where  he  was  disappointed  of  the  beneficial  effects  which  he  ex- 
pected, he  covered  with  clay,  which  he  found  under  the  surface, 
which  succeeded  far  beyond  his  most  sanguine  hopes. 

The  only  other  estates  within  the  parish,  and  which  form  its  south- 
west boundary,  are  Hill  Cairnie,  the  property  of  Robert  Russell, 
Esq.  and  Myre  Cairnie,  belonging  to  Captain  Pearson,  R.  N.  Both 
of  these  farms  are  cultivated  by  Mr  Russell.  They  contain  some 
very  strong  land.  Hill  Cairnie  is  known  in  the  neighbourhood  for 
its  deep  red  clay.  It  has  also  a  considerable  extent  of  meadow 
ground,  which  is  composed  of  sand,  moss,  and  marl.  This  is  all 
drained,  and  contributes  liberally  to  the  barn-yard,  or  to  the 
feeding  byres.  Both  these  farms  lie  near  the  town  of  Cupar,  and 
from  it  receive  a  great  quantity  of  dung,  in  addition  to  what  is  pro- 
duced upon  themselves.  They  are  thus  highly  cultivated  and 
fertile. 

From  these  observations,  it  is  evident  that  Kilmany  is  a  most 
productive  parish.  From  the  well  known  excellence  of  its  soil, 
from  the  greater  part  of  it  being  completely  watered  by  the  Mo- 
tray,  and  its  other  small  streams,  from  the  excellence  of  the  roads 
which  run  through  it,  and  from  its  nearness  to  good  markets, — the 
farms  which  compose  it,  have  been  long  in  great  request  by  the 
agriculturist.  There  are  many  offerers  of  skill,  and  of  capital,  for 
every  farm  which  comes  into  the  market.  On  this  account  all  the 
farms  are  rented  at  their  full  value,  and  some  of  them  above  it. 
If  times  were  becoming  worse  than  they  now  are,  the  rent  promis- 
ed for  them  could  not  be  paid,  without  entrenching  upon  the  ca- 
pital of  the  tenants.  Such  a  state  of  things  would  be  deeply  to 
be  deplored,  not  more  for  the  sake  of  this  industrious,  and  in  every 
way  respectable  class  of  men,  than  for  the  agricultural  prosperity 
and  the  general  good  of  the  country. 

The  valued  rent  of  Kilmany  is  L.  5327,  9s.  9d.  Scots  money ; 
real  rent  from  L.  8000  to  L.  9000  Sterling. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Market-Toion — Means  of  Communication. — What  is  called  the 
village  of  Kilmany  consists  of  the  cottars'  houses  of  the  two  farms  of 
the  same  name,  with  those  of  the  wright,  smith,  shoemaker,  weaver, 
and  beadle ;  and  of  a  few  more  fjimilies.  The  market-town  is 
•Cupar,  which  is  distant  from  the  centre  of  the  parish  betwixt  four 


KILMANY. 


553 


and  five  miles.  Although  the  roads  are  excellent,  it  enjoys  few 
means  of  communication  with  the  neighbouring  towns  and  vil- 
lages. There  is  no  post  nearer  than  Cupar  or  Newport,  which 
is  found  in  many  cases  to  be  very  inconvenient,  and  no  carrier 
passes  this  way  to  Dundee  and  Cupar.  A  great  part  of  the  ne- 
cessaries of  life  must  be  sent  for,  to  one  or  other  of  these  places, 
which  entails  upon  the  inhabitants  additional  labour  and  expense. 
The  parish  is  abundantly  supplied  with  excellent  bread,  three  or 
four  times  a-week,  by  carts  from  Cupar,  Newport,  and  Leuchars. 
The  length  of  the  turnpike-road  running  through  the  valley  is  six 
miles.  Originally  there  was  a  considerable  deal  of  posting  upon 
it,  from  Newport  to  Edinburgh,  as  this  is  the  best  and  nearest 
line  of  road  betwixt  these  places.  But  all  the  public  coaches  go 
round  by  Cupar,  and  since  the  starting  of  these  conveyances,  few 
post-chaises  are  seen  in  this  district.  There  are  eleven  small 
bridges  in  the  parish,  eight  of  them  are  over  the  Motray,  and  all 
of  them  in  good  order. 

Ecclesiastical  State. —  The  church  is  situated  upon  the  beautiful 
rising  ground,  upon  which  the  small  village  is  placed.  It  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Motray  runs 
below  it,  and  washes  the  bank  upon  which  it  is  built.  It  is  not 
particularly  well  situated  for  the  accommodation  of  the  parish ;  as 
the  most  extensive  and  populous  parts  of  it  lie  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  church.  This  cannot  now  be  avoided.  As  the 
parish  is  not  extensive,  the  people  in  good  weather  can  easily  attend 
divine  worship,  from  its  most  distant  points.  If  they  are  unwilling 
to  come  so  far,  there  are  other  churches  connected  with  the 
Establishment  nearer  them,  to  which  they  can  easily  go.  The  great- 
est distance  from  the  parish  church,  is  about  four  and  a-half  miles. 
It  was  built  in  1768.  It  is  of  the  plainest  construction.  The 
original  expense  of  it,  was  under  L.  150.  From  some  repairs 
which  it  lately  received,  it  is  far  from  being  uncomfortable.  It 
can  accommodate  from  300  to  340  individuals.  As  the  parish 
has  diminished  in  population  since  it  was  erected,  it  is  more  than 
sufficiently  large  for  the  congregation.  The  greatest  part  of  the 
area  is  divided  amongst  the  different  heritors,  and  is  occupied  by 
them,  or  by  their  tenants  and  servants ;  but  the  communion  tables 
and  the  east  gallery  are  free  sittings,  as  nothing  has  been  charged 
for  them  for  many  years.  These  were  erected  originally  at  the 
expense  of  the  kirk-session,  and  were  let  out  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor. 


554 


FIFESHIRK. 


The  manse  was  built  for  Dr  Chalmers  in  1810.  By  his  advice, 
the  site  of  it  was  removed  from  the  village  to  its  jjresent  situa- 
tion on  the  glebe.  It  is  now  about  400  paces  to  the  west  of  the 
church.  This  change  for  many  reasons  was  a  desirable  one.  The 
old  site  with  the  garden,  and  small  park  below  the  church,  do  not 
now  belong  to  the  minister.  They  were  exchanged  in  1820,  for 
land  lying  contiguous  to  the  principal  part  of  the  glebe.  The 
manse  now  stands  by  itself,  in  a  fine  park  of  ten  acres,  with  an 
excellent  approach  to  it,  which  the  late  site  completely  wanted. 
The  manse  and  offices  are  in  good  repair,  and  are  in  every  way 
suitable  to  the  accommodation  of  the  minister.  The  garden  is  sur- 
rounded with  an  excellent  wall,  five  and  a  half  feet  high  to  the 
south,  nine  and  a  half  to  the  east,  north,  and  west ;  it  was  built  in 
1820.  The  heritors  allowed  for  this  purpose  L.  45;  the  present 
incumbent,  for  his  own  conveniency,  gave  an  additional  L.  10.  It 
is  now  well  stocked  with  fruit  trees,  although  the  soil  is  not  very 
favourable  for  their  growth  ;  and  with  an  abundance  of  gooseberry, 
and  currant  bushes.  The  ground  about  the  manse  was  laid  out 
with  great  taste  by  Dr  Chalmers.  It  remains  very  much  in  the 
state  in  which  he  left  it.  The  glebe  consists  of  nearly  10  acres 
Scotch  measure,  and  is  enclosed  with  a  beech  and  thorn  hedge. 
The  soil  is  unequal;  but  a  great  part  of  it  is  good  and  sharp ;  and, 
under  proper  management,  is  productive.  It  would  let  over  head 
at  L.  3  to  L.  3,  10s.  per  acre.  The  stipend  during  the  greatest 
part  of  Dr  Chalmers'  incumbency,  and  of  mine,  was,  wheat,  8 
bolls;  barley,  92  bolls,  1  firlotl  peck.  Of  lippies;  oatmeal,  48  bolls, 
1  firlot,  1  peck,  Of  lippies ;  oats,  40  bolls,  with  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  of 
communion  elements.  In  1832  the  stipend  was  augmented  by 
the  Court  of  Teinds,  as  follows:  wheat,  8  bolls;  barley,  116  bolls; 
oatmeal  116,  with  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  as  communion  elements.  The 
whole  teinds  of  the  parish,  except  what  the  minister  receives  as 
stipend,  belong  to  the  United  College  of  St  Andrews,  and  every 
augmentation  which  i^  granted  is  taken  from  the  revenues  of  that 
most  respectable  body.  This  is  a  state  of  things  which  is  in 
every  way  to  be  regretted,  and  the  college  has  unquestionably 
a  just  claim  upon  Government,  for  the  loss  which  by  various  aug- 
mentations, they  have  sustained.  The  Principal  and  Professors 
of  the  said  college  are  patrons  of  the  parish. 

There  has  been  a  dissenting  chapel  in  the  parish  since  1762. 
The  clergyman,  I  believe,  is  paid  by  the  collections,  and  the  seat- 
rents  ;  his  salary  is  about  L.  100.    He  has,  in  addition,  a  good 


KILMANY. 


555 


house,  and  an  excellent  garden.  As  the  congregation  is  compos- 
ed of  the  Dissenters  of  various  parishes  in  the  neighbourhood,  I  do 
not  know  the  number  which  attends  this  chapel.  The  number  of 
heads  of  families  attending  the  Established  Church  is  about  80 ; 
of  communicants,  266  to  275. 

t    Education  There  are  three  schools  in  the  parish ;  the  paro- 
chial one,  at  Rathillet,  the  centre  of  the  parish ;  and  two  private 
ones,  taught  by  females,  at  Hazleton  of  Mountquhanie,  and  at 
Kilmany.    The  two  last  are  supported  by  the  liberality  of  Mrs 
Gillespie  of  Kirkton,  and  Mrs  Thomson  of  Charleton.  Each 
teacher  has  a  house,  school-room,  and  garden,  and  L.  10  of  sa- 
lary ;  the  rest  of  their  living  is  composed  of  school -fees,  which  may 
amount  to  betwixt  L.  5  and  L.  10  per  annum.    These  schools 
have  been  of  great  use  in  teaching  the  younger  children,  who  are 
not  able  to  go  so  far  as  the  parish  school;  and  still  more  so,  for 
giving  to  the  girls  in  the  parish  and  neighbourhood  a  knowledge 
of  knitting,  needle-work,  and  other  branches  of  female  education. 
In  the  parochial  school,  the  ordinary  branches  of  education  are 
at  present  most  ably  taught  by  Mr  William  M'Gillivray.  In 
addition  to  these,  if  required,  he  is  prepared  to  teach  practical 
mathematics,  geography,  and  Latin.     The  fees  are  fixed  by 
the  heritors  and  minister,  as  follows  :  for  English  reading,  2s. 
per  quarter ;  do.  with  writing  per  quarter,  2s.  6d  ;  these,  with 
arithmetic,  3s.  6d.  per  quarter ;   these,  with  English  gram- 
mar and  geography,  5s.  per  quarter ;  without  geography,  4s.  : 
and  for  the  whole,  with  Latin,  10s.  per  quarter.    The  school- 
master, like  most  of  his  brethren  in  country  parishes,  receives  only 
three  quarters  per  annum.    He  is  at  present  ill  accommodated, 
having  only  the  legal  allowance  of  two  rooms  ;  and  these  are  small 
and  low  in  the  ceiling ;  but  I  have  no  doubt  that  this  will  be  cor- 
rected by  the  liberality  of  the  heritors,  when  a  new  school-room  is 
built.    He  has  an  excellent  garden ;  and  as  session  and  heritor's 
clerk,  he  has  a  salary  of  L.3,  10s.,  the  emoluments  of  which  office, 
from  marriages,  births,  and  funerals  may  be,  on  an  average,  L.  2 
more  per  annum.    His  school-fees  may  amount  to  L.  18  or  L.20 
per  annum.     All  the  children  are  sent  to  school,  and  there  is  al- 
most no  person  who  cannot  read;  and  a  great  part  of  the  lower 
classes,  can  also  write  and  keep  accounts.  From  the  central  situa- 
tion of  the  school,  all  the  children  in  the  parish  can  attend  it, 
who  have  reached  the  age  of  seven  years.    There  is  no  need  of 
additional  schools. 


556 


FIFESIIIRE. 


Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  poor  of  this  parish  are  few  in 
number,  and  are  supported  at  a  very  trifling  expense.  There  still 
exists  amongst  them  that  noble  spirit,  which  spurns  at  public  as- 
sistance, when,  by  their  own  exertions  and  economy,  they  can  pro- 
vide for  themselves.  We  have,  at  present,  cases  an)ongst  us  where 
individuals  have  reached  the  utmost  verge  of  human  life  ;  with, 
means  bordering  upon  poverty,  and  by  many,  would  be  considered 
actually  so,  resolutely  refusing  the  scanty  supply  which  is  given  to 
those  who  are  upon  the  kirk -session  roll.  The  number  who  were 
assisted  by  the  kirk-session  last  year  were  14,  of  whom  five  only 
were  regularly  on  the  roll ;  the  rest  got  occasional  assistance.  The 
whole  sum  given  to  the  above  poor,  from  January  1837  to  January 
1838,  was  L.  23,  lis.  5d.  In  addition  to  this,  15s.  6d.  was  given 
to  a  medical  gentleman  for  advice ;  and  perhaps  L.  3  are  still  due 
to  the  schoolmaster,  for  poor  scholars.  In  addition  to  this  sum, 
David  Gillespie,  Esq.  of  Kirkton,  gave  me  liberty  last  year,  to  give 
coals  to  every  person  in  the  parish,  who  I  thought  stood  in  need  of 
them ;  and  I  was  particularly  requested  by  him,  not  to  diminish 
the  ordinary  supply  afforded  to  the  poor,  in  consequence  of  his  do- 
nation. Several  families,  who  were  in  distress  from  accidental  cir- 
cumstances, were  thus  supplied  with  coals,  who  never  received  a 
farthing  from  the  kirk-session.  Call  the  average,  L.  30;  and  this 
sum  cannot  be  said  to  be  extravagant,  upon  a  rental  of  L.  8000  to 
L.  9000  per  annum,  although  the  heritors  paid  every  farthing  of  it. 
But  this  they  do  not.  \st.  The  kirk-session  has  an  heritable  bond 
belonging  to  it  of  L.  200 ;  the  interest  of  which,  although  now  re- 
duced, goes  for  the  support  of  the  poor,  and  the  other  expenses  of 
the  kirk-session,  which  amount  annually  to  L.  8,  7s. :  Id,  collec- 
tions at  the  church  doors,  which  amount  to  about  L.  14;  3<f, 
dues  upon  mortcloths,  which  may  average  from  L.  2  to  L.  2,  5s. : 
and  dues  upon  marriages,  which  come  to  very  little  money;  Ath, 
interest  of  a  legacy  of  L.  45  left  by  the  late  David  Gillespie,  Esq. 
of  Kirkton,  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor;  and  5th,  interest  of  the  re- 
mains of  a  legacy  of  L.  34,  2s.  lOd.  left  by  the  late  John  A.  Thom- 
son. Esq.  of  Charleton,  to  be  expended  upon  clothing  to  needy 
and  respectable  individuals.  Although  the  kirk-session  had  no 
other  expenses,  the  funds  are  not  sufficient  of  themselves  to  supply 
the  poor,  few  as  they  are,  and  to  pay  the  salaries  above  stated.  In 
addition  to  these,  there  are  school-fees  for  the  children  of  people 
in  distress,  and  there  are  accidental  expenses,  which,  taken  to- 
gether, may  amount  annually  from  L.  3,  lOs.  to  L.  4,  lOs.  To 


KILMANY. 


557 


make  up  any  such  deficiency,  the  heritors  were  accustomed  to  as- 
sess themselves  voluntarily,  according  to  their  valued  rents.  All 
that  was  required  of  them  was  a  sum  of  L.  30  to  L.  35  every  al- 
ternate year.  They  thus  kept  the  capital  of  the  kirk-session  en- 
tire, and  ready  to  be  advanced  upon  any  emergency.  But  on  a  late 
occasion,  a  majority  of  heritors  agreed  not  to  contribute  as  they 
had  hitherto  done,  until  the  legacy  left  to  the  kirk-session  by  Mr 
Gillespie  was  expended.  The  tendency  of  such  proceeding,  if 
carried  farther,  is  to  bring  on  a  legal  assessment,  which  will  de- 
stroy here,  as  elsewhere,  that  independent  and  noble  spirit,  which 
spurns  at  parochial  relief.  The  present  incumbent,  at  least,  has 
done  all  in  his  power  to  prevent  this  state  of  things. 

Inns. — There  is  now  only  one  public-house  in  the  parish. 

Fuel. —  The  principal  article  used  for  fuel  is  coal.  There  is 
no  pit  of  this  valuable  mineral  nearer  than  twelve  miles.  By  land 
carriage,  it  is  brought  from  Teasses  in  Ceres  parish,  from  Drum- 
carro  in  Cameron,  from  Kilmux,  and  from  Orr's  Bridge.  It  is 
imported  in  considerable  quantities  into  Balmerino,  from  various 
places  on  the  Forth,  and  from  Newcastle.  On  the  hill,  a  double 
cart  containing  six  loads,  costs  from  7s.  6d.  to  9s.  6d. ;  carriage  of 
ditto,  with  tolls  8s.  lOd.  At  Balmerino,  English  coal  costs  about 
15s.  to  17s.,  Scotch  coal  from  12s.  6d.  to  17s.,  carriage  4s.  for 
a  double  cart.  In  winter  the  price  is  even  higher  at  Balmerino 
than  what  is  stated. 


June  1838. 


PARISH  OF  CULTS. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  THOMAS  J.  CRAWFORD,  A.  M.  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Situation,  Boundaries,  and  Extent. — This  parish  is  situated  in 
the  heart  of  the  county  of  Fife.  In  form,  it  is  nearly  oblong,  and 
in  superficial  extent  about  3^  square  miles,  being  2^  miles  long 
from  north  to  south,  and  1^  broad  from  east  to  west.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  west,  by  the  parishes  of  Kettle  and  Collessie ;  on  the  north, 
by  Collessie,  Monimail,  and  Cupar  ;  on  the  east,  by  Ceres;  and 
on  the  south  by  Ceres  and  Kettle. 

Name. — The  ancient  name  of  this  parish  was  Qxiilts  or  Quilques. 
This  word  is  alleged,  in  the  former  Statistical  Account,  to  be  of 
Celtic  origin,  signifying  a  "  7iook"  or  "  corner,"  and  is  suppos- 
ed to  be  descriptive  of  the  situation  of  the  parish,  which  recedes 
towards  the  south-east  from  the  large  strath  or  valley  of  the 
Eden. 

Topographical  Appearances. — There  is  nothing  very  remarkable 
to  be  noted  under  this  head.  The  surface  is  flat  or  slightly  de- 
clining towards  the  north,  but  hilly  towards  the  south  and  east. 
The  eastern  district  is  richly  wooded, — the  western  somewhat  bare 
and  uninteresting.  Of  the  hills  may  be  mentioned  the  Walton 
hill,  which  rises  at  the  south-east  extremity  of  the  parish, — and 
the  Pitlessie  or  Cults'  lime  hills,  which  adjoin  it  on  the  south. 
On  these,  there  are  many  points  from  which  the  fine  scenery  of 
the  neighbourhood,  the  beautiful  valley  of  Stratheden,  and  "  mine 
own  blue  Lomonds,"  (as  Sir  D.  Wilkie,  in  a  letter  to  a  former 
clergymen  of  Cults,  enthusiastically  calls  them,)  may  be  seen  to 
the  greatest  advantage. 

Soil. — There  is  great  variety  in  the  quality  of  the  soil.  From 
the  northern  boundary  to  the  high  road,  the  soil  is  a  light  brown- 
ish sand,  arid  and  unproductive,  apt  to  be  overrun,  if  left  long 


CULTS. 


559 


under  grass,  with  bent,  broom  and  furze.  Farther  southwards 
to  the  ascent  of  the  hme  hills,  a  soft  black  loam  prevails,  varying 
from  10  to  20  inches  in  depth.  On  the  sides  and  tops  of  the  hills, 
there  is  a  strong  clay,  of  excellent  quality,  capable  of  producing 
the  finest  crops. 

Climate. — The  climate  is  dry,  mild,  and  salubrious.  There 
are  no  peculiar  diseases  incident  to  the  locality.  Agues,  which 
were  prevalent  sixty  years  ago,  have  now,  owing  to  the  improved 
cultivation  of  the  country,  entirely  disappeared,  and  fevers  have 
of  late  years  been  neither  so  frequent  nor  so  severe  as  in  some  of 
the  surrounding  parishes.  The  highest  winds  are  from  the  south- 
west ;  the  greatest  storms  of  rain  and  snow  from  the  east. 

Hydrography. — The  river  Eden  divides  part  of  this  parish  from 
that  of  Collessie  on  the  north,  and  traverses  the  other  part.  The 
breadth  of  the  river  is  about  thirty-four  feet.  Its  bed  is  level,  its 
course  winding,  and  its  current  consequently  slow  and  noiseless. 
From  the  western  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  it  has  a 
fall  of  about  thirteen  feet.  It  drives  six  mills,  and  in  these  is 
made  available  in  the  summer  season  to  the  extent  of  not  less  than 
twenty  horse  power.  The  Eden  is  joined  by  the  Ballomill  burn, 
which,  flowing  southwards,  divides  Cults  from  Collessie  on  the 
west.  This  stream,  though  only  about  fifteen  feet  in  width,  is, 
during  the  summer  months,  of  nearly  equal  power  with  the  Eden 
itself.  Besides  these,  there  are  various  streamlets  of  inconsiderable 
size.    One  of  them  drives  two  thrashing-mills. 

Geology.— The  parish  of  Cults  presents  a  very  interesting  field 
of  observation  to  the  geologist.  Its  geognostic  appearances  are, 
for  the  most  part,  connected  with  the  carboniferous  or  great  in- 
dependent coal  formation.  The  rocks  consist  of  sandstone,  lime- 
stone, shale,  coal,  and  trap,  and  constitute  the  northern  outcrop 
of  the  coal  metals.  We  shall  begin  our  brief  description  with  the 
lowest  of  the  sedimentary  deposits,  and  consider  the  others  in 
their  relative  order  of  superposition, — a  method  which  will  conduct 
us  gradually  from  the  northern  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
parish. 

The  rock  which  prevails  throughout  the  lower  district  is  a  yel- 
low sandstone,  sections  of  which  may  be  observed  along  the  banks 
of  the  Eden,  and  at  the  quarries  of  Hospital  Mill  and  Bogle  Hill. 
It  may  likewise  be  observed  cropping  out  on  the  Walton  Hill,  a 
little  to  the  east  of  the  burying-place  of  the  Crawfurd  family,  and 


560 


PIFESHIRE. 


reaching  an  elevation  of  about  200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  val- 
ley. The  deposit  may  therefore  be  considered  as  of  enormous 
thickness.  Some  of  its  beds  assume  a  brecciated  or  conglomerated 
aspect,  containing  nodules  of  quartz,  and  rounded  portions  of  the 
primitive  rocks  ;  also  innumerable  quantities  of  clay  nodules,  which 
are  soft,  unctuous,  of  a  bluish  yellow  colour,  and  generally  of  a 
globular  or  semispherical  form.  In  this  portion  of  the  deposit,  the 
scales,  teeth,  and  bones  of  fossil  tish  are  abundant.  Some  of  the 
scales  found  at  Hospital  Mill  quarry,  measure  nearly  three  inches  in 
length  and  two  inches  in  breadth.  These  interesting  relics  all  belong, 
according  to  Dr  Anderson  (Edinburgh  New  Philosophical  Jour- 
nal, January  1838,)  to  the  Gyrolepis  giganteus  of  M.  Agassiz ; 
And  the  discovery  of  them  in  this  deposit  has  led  him  to  regard 
it  as  belonging  to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation,  of  which  it 
constitutes  the  upper  member.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  continuation 
of  the  Dura  Den,  Drumdryan,  Wemyss'  Hall,  and  Cupar  Muir 
sandstones,  in  which  several  new  genera  of  fossil  fishes,  as  well 
as  insects,  have  been  discovered  and  described  by  Dr  Anderson  in 
the  paper  referred  to.  The  direction  of  this  deposit  is  to  the 
south-east,  its  dip  is  at  an  angle  which  varies  from  7°  to  12°,  and 
its  range  is  westerly. 

The  mountain  limestone  is  the  next  rock  which  occurs  in  the 
order  of  superposition.  This  rock  crops  out  at  a  considerable 
elevation  above  the  valley,  and  like  the  former  ranges  in  a  wester- 
ly direction,  dipping  towards  the  south-east  at  an  angle  of  about 
10°.  It  may,  therefore,  although  the  junction  of  the  two  cannot 
be  observed,  be  considered  as  lying  perfectly  conformable  with  the 
yellow  sandstone.  The  main  bed  is  about  14  feet  thick,  very  hard 
and  crystalline  in  its  texture,  and  of  a  dark  bluish  colour.  It  ex- 
tends about  a  mile  and  a  half  iri  length,  in  the  course  of  which  se- 
veral dislocations  occur,  which  are  termed  rums  by  the  workmen. 
These  portions  of  the  rock  differ  considerably  from  the  rest,  and 
almost  approach  the  character  of  a  conglomerate,  which,  along  with 
the  arch-like  appearance  of  the  rums,  clearly  indicates  the  nature  of 
the  cause  by  which  they  have  been  occasioned,  as  well  as  the  close 
proximity  of  the  trap  beneath.  Besides  this  main  bed  of  limestone, 
there  are  other  three,  one  of  which  is  two,  anothereight,and  the  third 
six  feet  in  thickness.  The  organic  remains  in  this  depositare  encri- 
nites  of  several  species,  orthocerates,  terehratulce,  products,  spiri- 

fercB,  corallines,  madrepores,  and  small  microscopic  shells.  It  yields 

3 


CULTS.  5GI 

about  90  per  cent,  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  is  much  esteemed 
both  for  agricultural  and  architectural  purposes. 

Several  alternating  beds  of  coal,  shale,  and  sandstone  repose 
upon  the  limestone  strata.  One  of  the  beds  of  coal  is  twelve 
inches  thick,  and  may  be  considered  as  the  lowest  of  the  whole 
series,  of  which  the  coal-field  in  the  county  is  composed.  From 
the  quarry  it  may  be  traced  westwards  to  Front-brae,  where  it 
may  be  seen  cropping  out  along  the  road  which  leads  to  Coal- 
town.  Here  the  whole  series  have  been  thrown  down  several  hun- 
dred feet,  underlying  the  Burnturk  coal  metals,  and  again  emerg- 
ing at  Forthar  hmework  in  the  parish  of  Kettle.  The  other  beds 
of  coal  vary  from  a  few  inches  to  about  a  foot  in  thickness,  and 
are  not  considered  of  sufficient  value  to  be  wrought. 

One  of  the  beds  of  shale  which  overlies  the  main  lime  bed  is 
composed  almost  entirely  of  shells  of  the  genus  Mytilm,  the  pre- 
vailing species  being  the  M.  Crassus.    These  shells  appear  as 
fresh  and  entire  as  if  they  were  still  reposing  on  the  muddy  bed 
of  the  primitive  ocean,  in  which  they  were  produced.    Not  only 
are  the  external  figure  and  internal  texture  preserved,  but  even 
the  colour  and  original  shelly  matter  seem  to  have  sustained  but 
little  alteration.    One  cannot  look  on  these  interesting  relics  with- 
out a  feeling  of  admiration  of  the  wonderful  methods  devised  by 
Providence,  for  preserving  so  entire  bodies  of  so  fragile  a  kind,  and 
out  of  their  remains  once  deposited  on  the  bottom  of  the  sea, 
forming  the  rocks  and  soil,  which  now  minister  to  the  wants  and 
comforts  of  man. 

Of  the  sandstones  reposing  on  the  lime  beds,  the  thickest,  which 
IS  about  16  feet,  abounds  in  organic  remains.  These,  however,  are 
wholly  vegetable,  being  the  stems  and  branches  of  arundinaceom 
plants.  Not  a  trace  of  animal  matter  can  be  detected  in  any  part 
of  this  deposit,  while  in  the  inferior  bed  of  sandstone  before  no- 
ticed, the  organic  remains  are  exclusively  animal ;  a  fact,  we  be- 
leve,  first  observed  by  Dr  Anderson,  and  serving  as  the  basis  of 
his  proposed  arrangement  of  the  different  sandstones  found  in 
btratheden.  The  whole  of  these  alternating  beds  of  coal,  shale 
sandstone  and  mountain  limestone,  have  been  elevated  to  the  height 
of  about  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  now  constitute 
what  are  called  the  Cults  or  Pitlessie  Hills,  being  apparently  a 
contmuation  of  the  Lomond  range. 

The  whole  series  of  rocks  in  this  parish  are  capped  with  masses 
ot  overlyuig  trap,  consisting  partly  of  amygdaloid,  and  partly  of 

I'li^K.  Nn 


FIFESIURE 


greenstone.    This  rock  has  obviously  burst  through  the  stratified 
deposits,  and  towards  it,  as  a  central  nucleus,  they  all  incline. 

Botany. — I  have  been  favoured  by  a  proprietor  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood* with  a  very  complete  view  of  the  botany  of  the  parish 
of  Cults.  A  brief  account  of  the  more  notable  plants,  which 
have  been  observed  by  him,  is  all  that  can  be  here  given. 

The  Chara  vulgaris  grows  in  one  of  the  rills  on  the  farm  of 
Priestfield  ;  the  Agrostis  alba,  var.  stolonifera,  abounds  on  the  lime- 
hills,  as  also  the  Briza  media  and  Jvena  flavescens  ;  and  the  Aira 

aquatica  in  Pitrachnie  den.    The  Scabiosa  arvensis,  the  smooth  va- 
riety, a  plant  which,  Sir  James  Smith  says,  has  not  yet  been  found  in 
England,  grows  in  Cults.    The  Galium  cinereum  grows  close  to 
the  mill-dam  opposite  the  Priory  garden.    The  Potamogeton  pu- 
sillum,  which  does  not  seem  to  be  found  near  Edinburgh,  grows 
abundantly  in  the  old  bed  of  the  Eden  near  Pitlessie  Bridge. 
The  white-flowered  Campanula  rotundifolia  has  been  found  in 
several  places.    The  Viola  lutea  is  common  on  the  hills.  The 
Solanum  dulcamara,  supposed  by  Hooker  to  be  rare  in  Scotland, 
grows  in  many  places  on  the  banks  of  the  Eden ;  while  Cicuta 
virosa,  the  most  virulent  of  our  poisons,  has  been  found  near  Cult 
mill.    The  Triglochin  palustre  grows  on  the  lime-hills,  and  the 
white-flowering  Epilobium  montanum  in  the  woods  near  Crawfurd 
Priory.    The  Sedum  Telephium  grows  freely  on  the  banks  of  the 
Eden,  and  the  S.  villosum  is  not  uncommon  in  marshy  places  on 
the  hills.    The  Cerastium  aquaticum  grows  near  Pitlessie  mill. 
The  Jgrimonia  Eupatoria,  a  plant  much  used  in  making  British 
teas,  is  found  in  Pitrachnie  den  ;  and  the  Prunvs  spinosa  grows 
in  considerable  quantities  among  the  rocks.    As  might  be  expect- 
ed, there  is  a  great  variety  of  the  genus  Bosa  :  R.  spinosissima  and 
tomentosa  are  very  common  ;  B.  scabriuscula  abounds  on  the  whole 
range  of  hills  on  the  south  of  Stratheden  ;  the  R.  rubiginosa  is 
not  uncommon  ;  the  B.  arvensis  is  frequently  to  be  met  with,  as 
also  the  B.  canina,  now  so  much  recommended  for  rose  stocks. 
The  Geum  rivale  and  the  Comarum  palustre  are  to  be  found  in 
the  rills  and  marshes.    The  Papaver  BhcBas,  so  common  on  the 
coast,  but  rare  in  the  interior  of  Fife,  grows  near  Cult  mill ;  and 
the  Nuphar  lutea  near  Pitlessie  Bridge.    Banunculus  sceleratus, 
and  R.  hirsutus,  var.  /3,  are  found  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Eden, 
while  a  beautiful  variety  of  the  B.  acris  with  a  single  flower  abounds 


*  James  Heriot,  Esq.  of  Ramornie. 


CULTS.  5^3 

in  Pitrachnie  den.    The  Caltha  radicans  is  by  no  means  uncom- 
mon on  the  hills.    The  Galeopsis  Ladanum,  var.  /3,  Smith,  which 
he  had  never  seen,  is  found ;  and  also  the  beautiful  G.  versicolor, 
called  bee-nettle,  from  a  resemblance  to  that  insect.    (The  day- 
nettle,  by  which  the  reapers  are  so  severely  stung,  is  the  Galeopsis, 
including  more  than  one  species  of  it,  and  not  the  dead-nettle,  or 
Lamium,  as  stated  by  Dr  Jamieson  in  his  Scottish  Dictionary.  The 
severity  of  the  wound  is  caused  by  a  poisonous  liquid  contained  in 
the  plant.)    The  dark  variety  of  Euphrasia  officinalis  is  found  on 
Hospital  Mill  farm.    The  Thlaspi  arvense  grows  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  parish,  on  the  farm  of  Skelpie  ;  the  Cardamine  hirsuta 
on  the  banks  of  the  Eden;  the  Nasturtium  officinale 'm  the  ditches; 
and  the  Barbarea  officinalis  near  Pitlessie.    The  Sinapis  alba  oc- 
curs occasionally ;  the  other  two  sorts  are  very  common.  The 
beautiful  Geranium  pratense  is  found  in  several  places,  as  also  the 
G.  dissectum.  The  Malva  moschata,  not  uncommon  in  the  county, 
grows  near  Crawfurd  Priory.    The  Spartium  scoparium  and  Ulex 
europeus,  from  the  extent  of  ground  they  occupy,  (there  having 
been  till  very  recently  a  fox  cover  of  seventy  acres  on  the  farm  of 
Skelpie)  would  lead  one  to  doubt  the  truth  of  the  statement,  that 
they  are  of  foreign  origin,  and  were  introduced  by  the  Scottish  kings, 
who  had  their  hunting  seat  at  the  neighbouring  palace  of  Falk- 
land.   The  Anthyllis  vulneraria  grows  on  the  hills,  as  also  the 
Orobus  tuberosus,  the  roots  of  which  have  been  recommended  as  a 
substitute  for  coffee.    The  beautiful  Ornithopus  perpusillus  has 
been  found  near  Clushford  bridge  ;  the  Lotus  major  near  the  lime- 
hills;  Hypericum  quadrangulum  and  H.  pulchrum,  the  latter  very 
common  m  the  marshes,  as  also  the  Leontodon palusire.    The  pa- ' 
r^h  IS  rich  m  the  genus  Hieracium  ;  the  H.  murorum  is  found  in 
the  rocks  and  walls,  the  H.  sylvaticum  in  the  woods,  and  the  H. 
palustre  oni^^  lime  hills.  Cichorium  Intybus  is  found  occasional! 
ly.     Ihe  Cmcus  eriophorus  is  found  near  Crawfurd  Priory  gar- 
den,  and  m  other  places.    The  Gnaphalium  dioicum  is  by  no 
means  uncommon.    The  Inula  Helenium  grows  near  the  farm  of 
^unzeon.    The  Centaurea  scabiosa,  not  uncommon  in  the  east  of 

na  t'ofl'  T  '"'"^"^  t^^"  eastern 

rZl  ^^i'- .  ^'■^'"■^  ^'fi^^^  not 

rare  on  the  hills  Pitlessie  Mill  dam  affords  the  Sparganium  sim- 
pie.  with  leaves  from  6  to  8  feet  long,  very  differenfin  appearance 
from  the  diminutive  plant  of  the  same  species  of  1  or  2  inches, 


564 


FIFESHIRE. 


growing  on  the  borders  of  Lindores  Loch.  The  Alnus  glutinosa 
grows  wild  on  the  banks  of  the  Eden.  The  Betula  alba,  var.  /3, 
or  weeping  birch,  is  found  apparently  wild  near  Bunzeon.  There 
are  many  sorts  of  willows  in  the  parish,  but  the  only  sorts  proba- 
bly that  ari3  in  a  wild  state  are  the  beautiful  species,  Salix  pentan- 
dra,  S.  malifuUa,  S.  repens,  S.  aquatica,  and  S.  caprea.  There 
are  many  fine  trees  of  S.  alba,  and  some  good  specimens  of  other 
kinds.  There  are  no  uncommon  ferns  ;  the  Aspidium  Oreopteris, 
and  A.  Filixfemina  are  found ;  also  Asplenium  Trichomanes,  and 
Blechnum  boreale  ;  Ophioglossum  vvlgatum  ;  this  rare  plant  is  found 
near  the  lime  quarries ;  Equisetrim  arvense  and  E.  palustre  are 
found  in  the  marshy  grounds. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Early  Notices  of  the  Parish — These  are  very  scanty.    In  the 
taxed  roll  of  the  Archbishoprick  of  St  Andrews,  drawn  up  in  the 
year  1547,  Cults  is  included  under  the  title  of  Rectoria  de  Qwilts. 
(See  Martin's  Reliquiae  Divi  Andreae).    A  still  more  early  no- 
tice of  it  is  found  in  the  charters  of  the  College  of  St  Salvador,  in 
the  University  of  St  Andrews.    In  the  first  foundation  charter  of 
that  College,  dated  1455,  there  is  contained  a  disposition  and  m9r- 
tification  for  its  behoof,  by  Bishop  James  Kennedy,  of  the  teihds 
of  the  parishes  of  Qwilts,  Kemback,  Dunninow,  Forteviot,  and 
Kilmany,  together  with  some  chaplainries,  all  formerly  belonging 
to  the  see.— In  the  second  foundation  charter  of  St  Salvador's, 
dated  at  the  Castle  of  St  Andrews,  5th  April  1458,  it  is  ordained 
that  the  College  shall  consist  of  a  Doctor  in  Theology,  who  was 
to  be  Provost  or  Principal,  a  Licentiate  of  Theology,  a  Bachelor  in 
Theology,  four  Masters  of  Arts,  and  six  poor  scholars  to  be  taught 
the  speculative  sciences.    The  Doctor  in  Theology  being  Princi- 
pal, has  by  this  charter  the  rectory  of  Qioilts  assigned  to  him  as  his 
endowment,— the  Licentiate,  or  second  master  has  the  rectory  of 
Kemback,  and  the  Bachelor,  or  third  master,  the  rectory  of  Denino, 
-^the  teinds  of  the  other  benefices  being  assigned  to  the  Masters  of 
Arts  and  poor  scholars.   Prior  to  the  Reformation,  the  Principal  of 
St  Salvador's  continued  to  be  ex  officio  rector  of  Cults,  serving 
the  cure  by  a  Vicar  or  Curate.    On  the  establishment  of  the  Re- 
formed Church  of  Scotland,  the  surplus  or  unappropriated  teinds 
of  the  parish  were  still  allotted  to  him  as  Titular.    And  in  this  ca- 
pacity, the  principal  of  the  then  United  Colleges  of  St  Salvador 
and  St  Leonard  opposed  the  augumentation  of  stipend  sued  for 
by  the  ministers  of  Cults,  and  granted  to  him  in  1756.    The  pa- 


CULTS. 


565 


tronage  of  Cults  and  of  the  other  parishes  above-mentioned  is  still 
vested  in  the  Professors  of  the  United  College. 

Antiquities. — "  The  Walton-hill,"  says  Mr  Wilkie  in  the  for- 
mer Statistical  Account,  "  has  many  fossoR  and  ramparts  cut  along 
its  side,  which  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  a  Roman  camp, 
pitched  by  Agricola,  who,  when  invading  Scotland,  encamped  one 
part  of  his  army  here,  and  the  other  at  Newtyle  in  Angus."  The 
truth  of  this  supposition  is  very  doubtful.  The  Romans  usually 
encamped  in  the  plain,  not  like  the  Danes  and  Britons  on  the 
hill  or  hill-side.  Mr  Wilkie  adds,  "  that  many  urns  and  bones 
have  been  dug  up  on  and  near  this  hill."  Of  what  description 
these  urns  were  he  omits  to  mention.  Probably  they  were  of  the 
same  kind  with  those  Celtic  urns  of  rudely  moulded  earthenware, 
which  have  been,  at  a  more  recent  period,  found  in  great  numbers, 
on  the  adjoining  lands  of  Edenwood,  in  the  parish  of  Ceres.  Urns 
exactly  similar  to  these  last  have  been  discovered  near  Maiden 
Castle,  in  Collessie,  and  are  described  in  the  New  Statistical  Ac- 
count of  that  parish. 

Parochial  Registers.— These  parish  records  commence  in  the 
year  1693,  and  are  continued  downwards  with  little  interruption 
to  the  present  day.  Prior  to  J  748,  however,  the  entries  are  made 
in  a  very  confused  and  slovenly  manner,— the  notices  of  births, 
marriages,  and  deaths  being  huddled  together  with  the  minutes  of 
the  kirk-session,  and  the  accounts  of  the  collections  and  disburse- 
ments for  the  poor.  The  older  minutes  of  the  Session  exhibit 
some  curious  traits  of  the  characters  and  manners  of  the  times  to 
which  they  refer.  From  the  account  of  the  collections,  it  ap- 
pears that  these  were  sometimes  made  in  former  times,  not  only  for 
the  maintenance  of  the  poor,  and  for  missionary  purposes,  but  for 
the  repairing  of  roads,  bridges,  and  harbours.  And  it  more  than 
once  occurs  that  the  recusant  members  of  the  congregation,  who 
tail  to  give  their  mite  to  these  occasional  contributions,  have  their 
names  reported  to  a  subsequent  meeting  of  the  kirk-session  and 
recorded  in  the  minute. 

Eminent  Men.-Th\s  parish  has  the  honour  of  being  the  birth- 
place  of  Sir  David  Wilkie,  the  celebrated  painter,  who  was  born 
in  the  manse  on  the  18th  of  November  1785.  His  father,  the 
Rev.  David  Wilkie,  for  thirty-eight  years  minister  of  Cults,  was- 
of  a  respectable  family  in  Mid- Lothian,  and  was  nephew  to  the 
famous  Dr  Wilkie,  Professor  of  Logic  in  the  University  of  St 
Andrews,  and  author  of  the  «  Epigoniad."    His  mother,  Miss  Isa^ 


666 


FIFESHHIE. 


bel  Lister,  was  the  daughter  of  Mr  James  Lister,  a  most  respec- 
table elder  in  the  parish,  and  a  man  of  singular  sagacity  and  na- 
tural talents.  The  young  painter  shewed  at  an  early  period  of 
life  a  strong  predilection  for  that  art,  in  which  he  has  now  acquir- 
ed so  high  and  so  well  merited  celebrity.  Even  the  taunts  of 
his  brothers  and  companions  did  not  deter  him  from  embracing 
every  opportunity,  when  yet  on  the  very  verge  of  infancy,  of  exhi- 
biting his  natural  tastes  and  prepossessions.  And  all  the  aversion, 
at  first  shewn  by  both  his  father  and  grandfather,  to  his  following, 
what  they  conceived  to  be  an  idle  arnd  unprofitable  pursuit,  only 
served  to  verify  the  adage  of  Horace,  "  Naturam  expelles  furca, 
tamen  usque  recurret."  His  father's  successor  in  the  ministry 
has  informed  me,  that  when  he  first  came  to  Cults,  he  found  the 
walls  of  the  nursery  completely  covered  with  eyes,  noses,  hands, 
and  other  parts  of  the  human  body,  boldly  executed,  not  with  crayon, 
but  with  the  charred  end  of  a  stick, — but  that  subsequently,  on  his 
return  after  a  temporary  absence,  while  the  manse  was  undergo- 
ing repairs,  he  was  shocked  to  find  these  interesting  memorials 
obliterated,  by  the  painter's  brush  no  doubt,  but  by  a  very 
different  one  from  that,  which  the  young  Artist  was  destined 
afterwards  to  make  use  of !  Some  of  Wilkie's  earliest  perform- 
ances still  exist,  in  the  shape  of  portraits,  which  are  admirable 
likenesses,  and  valued  of  course  very  highly  by  their  fortunate 
possessors.  The  oldest  of  his  unproductive  paintings  that  I 
have  heard  of,  is  an  exquisite  representation  of  a  poor  family, 
the  father  sitting  in  tattered  clothes,  smoking  a  pipe  by  the  fire- 
side, and  his  daughter,  a  buxom  girl,  bringing  water  from  the  well 
in  an  earthen  vessel.  It  is  now  in  the  possession  of  a  widow  lady 
in  St  Andrews.  In  one  person's  possession,  there  are,  among  se- 
veral others  of  Wilkie's  earlier  efforts,  two  very  exquisite  likenesses 
of  his  brother's  children,  painted  long  before  he  reached  the  acme 
of  his  fame, — and  a  domestic  scene,  his  father  and  mother  at  fa- 
mily worship,  painted  in  his  youth,  and  not  unworthy  of  being  com- 
pared with  his  recent  treatment  of  a  kindred  subject,  "  The 
Cottar's  Saturday  Night."  A  report  and  belief  is  very  gene- 
ral that  the  "  Saracen's  head,"  a  sign  board  in  the  village  of 
Pitlessie,  was  painted  by  Wilkie.  This  we  have  reason  to  know 
is  a  mistake.  There  is,  however,  in  the  possession  of  Robert  Meth- 
ven,  Esq.  procurator  fiscal  for  the  County  of  Fife,  a  sign-board  re- 
presenting a  boy  watering  a  horse,  which  was  really  painted  by 
Wilkie  when  a  mere  boy  for  a  small  alehouse  in  the  parish  of  Kettle- 


CULTS.  567 

"  Pitlessie  Fair"*  which  was  his  first  regular  effort  as  an  ar- 
tist, is  now  in  the  possession  of  a  proprietor  in  an  adjoining  parish, 
Charles  Kinnear,  Esq.  of  Kinloch.  It  is  a  fine  picture,  contain- 
ing upwards  of  150  figures  graphically  delineated  and  admirably 
grouped,  including  portraits  of  Wilkie  himself,  his  father,  brothers 
and  sisters,  and  of  many  other  characters  well  known  in  the  pa- 
rish and  neighbourhood,  during  the  painter's  earlier  years.  This 
picture  is  by  competent  judges  considered  equal  in  merit  to  some 
of  the  most  admired  productions  of  its  distinguished  artist,  although, 
having  never  been  engraved,  it  is  less  generally  known. 

To  mention  or  characterize  any  of  his  more  recent  performan- 
ces, would  be  quite  superfluous.  These  are  well  known,  and  have 
been  justly  appreciated.  As  an  artist  he  may  be  well  accounted 
the  boast  not  merely  of  a  parish,  or  of  a  county,  or  even  of  a  king- 
dom,— but  of  the  art  in  general,  wherever  it  is  cultivated  ;  while 
in  private  life,  as  is  well  known,  there  is  r\o  man  morejustly  esteemed 
for  his  simple  and  unaffected  manners,  and  his  amiable  and  friend- 
ly disposition. — Sir  David  Wilkie  was  appointed  by  King  George 
IV.  Limner  to  his  Majesty  for  Scotland,  and  in  1836  he  received 
the  honour  of  knighthood  from  King  William  IV. 

The  Rev,  David  Wilkie,  father  of  this  celebrated  artist,  merits 
a  special  notice  in  this  place,  as  the  author  of  a  valuable  "  Trea- 
tise on  the  Theory  of  Interest  and  Annuities ;  with  an  illustration 
of  the  widow's  scheme  in  the  Church  of  Scotland :"  as  also  Dr 
Thomas  Gillespie,  the  present  learned  and  able  Professor  of  Hu- 
manity in  the  University  of  St  Andrews,  who  succeeded  Mr 
Wilkie  in  the  ministry  of  the  parish  of  Cults,  and  held  that  office 
for  fifteen  years.  Dr  Gillespie,  besides  numerous  other  literary 
productions,  has  published  a  volume  of  beautiful  sermons  on  "  The 
Seasons  contemplated  in  the  Spirit  of  the  Gospel." 

Land-owners  and  Rental— Theve  are  t^iree  land-owners  in  this 
parish,  none  of  them  permanently  resident,  viz.  The  Right  Ho- 
nourable the  Earl  of  Glasgow,  George  Heggie,  Esq.  of  Pitlessie, 
and  George  Hope,  Esq.  of  Upper  Rankeillor  and  Hospital  Mill. 

The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  as  follows  : 

The  Earl  of  Glasgow,  L.  1442  0  0  Scots. 

George  Heggie,  Esq.        -  49U  0  0 

George  Hope,  Esq.        .  J  37  6  8 


Total  valued  rental,  L.  2069    6  8 

•  In  the  eighth  vol.  of  Blackwood's  Edinburgh  xMagazi.ie,  there  is  an  admirable 
series  ot  poetical  sketches,  entitled  "Sketches  of  Villa frc  C/taractcr,"  the  subjects  of 
wnich  were  in  a  great  measure  furnished  from  the  parish  of  Cults.  No.  iv.  of  these 
w-if  •  .'''^  P'Pfsscdly  and  accurately  descriptive  of  some  of  the  principal  features  of 
Wilkics  "  Pitlessie  Fair." 


5G8 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  real  rental  of  the  parish  (including  feu-duties,  and  the  rent 
of  lime- quarries)  may  be  stated  at  L.  3000  Sterling. 

Mansion  Houses. — Crawfurd  Castle  and  Priory  is  the  only  mo- 
dern mansion  which  merits  particular  notice  under  this  head. 
It  is  a  magnificent  castellated  building  in  the  Gothic  style  of 
architecture.  It  was  erected  in  1812-13,  by  the  late  proprietor, 
Lady  Mary  Lindsay  Crawfurd.  The  old  seat  of  the  Earls  of 
Crawfurd  and  Lindsay  was  Struthers  House,  now  in  ruins,  in  the 
adjacent  parish  of  Ceres.  The  old  mansion  house  of  Bunzeon,  on 
the  estate  of  that  name,  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Bruces  of 
Bunzeon.  Since  the  junction  of  this  property  with  the  Crawfurd 
estate,  it  has  been  converted  into  a  farm-house.  Bruce  of  Bunzeon 
represented  the  burgh  of  Cupar  in  the  Scottish  Parliament  of 
1703,  before  the  Union. 

Monuments. — There  are  no  ancient  monuments  of  any  note  in 
the  church-yard  of  Cults.  On  the  Walton  hill,  there  is  the  mau- 
soleum of  the  Crawford  family,  a  handsome  Grecian  building, 
erected  by  the  father  of  the  late  Earl.  And  Sir  David  Wilkie  has 
adorned  the  interior  of  the  church  with  a  noble  piece  of  sculpture 
to  the  memory  of  his  parents.  It  is  executed  by  Chantrey  in  the 
best  style  of  that  distinguished  sculptor.  The  medallion  liknesses 
which  it  presents  of  Mr  and  Mrs  Wilkie,  from  portraits  by  Sir 
David,  are  considered  very  striking. 

III. — Population. 

The  following  is  a  statement  of  the  population  of  Cults  at 
various  periods  downwards  since  1751  : 

Number  of  inhabitants  according  to  Session  records  in  the  year  1751,  464 
Number  as  returned  to  Dr  Webster  in  -  -        -  1755,  449 

Number  according  to  last  Statistical  Account  in  -  -  -  1791>  534 
J^umber  by  Government  census  in       -        -         -  1801,  C99 

1811,  766 
1821,  853 

in  1831,  males  435,  females  4C8,  total  903 

Number  in  January  1838,  9 [4 

Increase  since  1751, 

since  1791,  380 

This  progressive  increase  in  the  population  is  to  be  ascribed  to 
the  steadily  advancing  prosperity  of  trade  and  manufactures. 

Of  the  914  present  inhabitants  of  this  parish,  516  reside  in  the 
village  of  Pitlessie,  and  398  in  the  country. 

The  yearly  average  for  the  last  seven  years  of  births  is  20 

marriages,  »i.57 
deaths.  16.14 
Of  the  914  inhabitants  of  this  parish  there  .are  under  15  years  of  age,  322 

betwixt  15  and  30,^  254 
30  and  60,  163 
50  and  70,  1 36 

upwards  of  70,  39 


CULTS. 


5G9 


The  number  of  families  is  at  present  ,  .  .  .  204 

By  census  1831,  the  number  of  families  is  -  .  .  211 

The  number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  or  widowers  upwards  of  50  years 

of  age,  -  «    -  -  24 

unmarried  women  upwards  of  45,  -  -  36 

inhabited  houses,  by  census  1831,  -  -  I74 

Since  that  period,  there  have  been  ten  additional  dwelling-houses 
built,  and  nearly  as  many  of  the  former  houses  converted  into 
loom-shops.  There  are  seven  dwelling-houses  at  present  uninha- 
bited or  buildingf. 

There  are  three  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50 
and  upwards  ;  one  of  them,  the  Earl  of  Glasgow,  is  occasionally 
resident. 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People. — There  is  nothing  remark- 
able in  the  character  or  habits  of  the  people  to  distinguish  them 
from  those  of  the  surrounding  district.  They  are  for  the  most 
part  healthy  and  vigorous  ;  and,  on  the  whole,  enjoy,  in  a  reason- 
able measure,  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  society. 

Thirty-five  years  ago,  smuggling  prevailed  to  a  great  extent  in 
the  village  of  Pitlessie.    It  has  since  been  entirely  abandoned. 

IV. — Industry. 
Employments  of  Male  Adults. — The  Government  census  of  1831 
gives  the  following  return  of  the  occupations  of  the  males  upwards 
of  twenty  years  old  : 

Number  employed  in  agriculture,  as  farmers,  cottars,  and  farm-servants,  _  48 
manufactures,  -  .  _  -  49 

retail  trade  and  handicraft,         -  -  -  C8 

Merchants,  professional  persons,  and  otlier  educated  men,       -       -  .4 

Labourers  employed  in  mines,  roads,  &c.  -  .        -       -       -   "  37 

r  By  the  same  census  it  appears  that  in  1831  there  were 

Families  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  -  .  .  •  .  "  ■  39 

in  trade,  manufactures,  and  handicraft,  -  151 

Other  families  not  included  in  these  classes,          -          .            .  -        2 1 

Male  servants  upwards  of  twenty  years  old,       -              .           _  .  4 

Female  servants  ot  all  ages,       .          .              .              _  jg 

Jgricultural  State.— The  number  of  standard  imperial  acres  in 
the  parish  is  nearly  2250  ;  of  which  there  are, 

Under  cultivation,  j 
Constantly  waste  or  in  pasture,  (but  all  capable  of  being  rendered  arable  )    .  HO 

Under  wood,  (Scotch  firs,  larches,  spruces,  and  hard-wood,)          -  .     ]  15 

Roads,  fences,  water,  and  quarries,  about           -          -           .           -  "  fiO 

Houses  and  gardens,          -            _           .              "           -             "  35 

There  is  no  part  of  the  land  in  a  state  of  undivided  common. 

Hushandry.—The  system  of  husbandry  adopted  varies  according 
to  the  qualities  of  the  different  soils.  A  rotation  of  five  years  is  ge- 
nerally observed.  The  farm-buildings  are,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
good  and  commodious.  A  great  part  of  the  land  in  this  parish 
stands  in  much  need  of  draining  and  enclosures. 

Rent  ofLand.~The  rent  of  land  varies,  according  to  the  qua- 


570 


FlFESHlllE. 


lity  of  the  soil,  from  IDs.  to  L.  3,  3s.  per  imperial  acre.  The 
average  rent  may  be  stated  at  L.  1,  5s.  The  duration  of  leases 
is  usually  nineteen  years,  and  the  rents  are  paid  partly  in  fixed 
sums  of  money,  and  partly  according  to  the  fiars'  prices  of  the 
county. 

Rate  of  Grazing. — The  average  rate  of  grazing  is  L.  2,  10s.  for 
an  ox  or  cow,  and  7s.  for  a  ewe  or  full-grown  sheep. 

Live-Stock. — The  cattle  reared  or  fed  in  this  parish  are  chiefly 
of  the  Fifeshire  breed,  to  the  improvement  of  which  the  farmers 
are  most  attentive.  Few  sheep  are  pastured,  and  these  for  the 
most  part  are  of  the  black-faced  and  Cheviot  breeds. 

Rate  of  Wages. — The  wages  of  a  ploughman  (all  perquisites  in- 
cluded) vary  from  L.  16  to  L.  26.  Female  house-servants  receive 
from  L.  4,  IDs.  to  L.  6,  10s.  per  annum.  The  wages  of  male  day- 
labourers  are  from  8s.  to  10s.  per  week;  of  female  day-labourers 
from  4s.  to  5s.  per  week.  A  mason's  wages  per  day  are  2s.  3d.  ; 
a  carpenter's  are  2s. 

TAme-Quames. — There  are  extensive  lime-quarries  in  this  pa- 
rish, along  the  brow  of  the  Pitlessie  or  Cults  hill.  The  main  stratum 
of  limestone,  which  is  14  feet  in  thickness,  is  of  a  bluish  colour, 
and  when  burnt  affords  an  abundant  supply  of  white  lime  of  the 
finest  quality.  About  13  feet  above  it,  there  is  another  stratum, 
2  feet  in  thickness,  of  a  darker  blue  colour,  which,  when  burnt, 
yields  a  bluish  lime.  Both  of  these  strata  are  regularly  quarried  to 
a  great  extent,  the  open  face  of  the  rock  being  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  length. 

Farther  down  the  hill,  about  120  yards  to  the  north,  another 
stratum  may  be  observed  cropping  out  in  several  places.  This 
consists  of  what  is  called  boulder  limestone,  and  is  8  feet  6 
inches  in  thickness.  It  has  been  quarried  at  the  eastern  and  west- 
ern extremities  of  the  parish  for  road  metal,  but  never,  so  far  as  I 
can  ascertain,  for  supplying  lime-shells. 

About  the  same  distance  (120  yards)  up  the  hill,  to  the  south- 
wards of  the  main  quarry,  is  seen  the  outcrop  of  a  fourth  stratum, 
6  feet  in  thickness,  of  superior  quality  to  the  lowest  bed,  but  infe- 
rior to  the  two  middle  ones.  It  has  been  sometimes  quarried,  but 
not  regularly.  These  different  beds  of  limestone  are  separated 
from  one  another  by  strata  of  coal,  shale,  sandstone,  and  a  kind  of 
bastard  limestone,  which  the  miners  call  *'  sklut." 

The  limestone  is  obtained  for  the  most  part  by  "  tirring,"  or 
removing  the  superincumbent  strata.  Mining  is  permitted  by  the 
terms  of  the  leases,  where  the  tirring  would  exceed  30  feet.  And 


CULTS. 


571 


some  of  the  under-ground  quarries  extend  120  yards  inwards  from 
the  face  of  the  rock. 

The  quantity  of  lime  sold  annually  exceeds  25,000  bolls,  three  of 
which  bolls  are  equivalent  to  16  cwt.  About  one-third  of  this 
quantity  is  shipped  at  Newburgh  for  Dundee  and  Perth,  whence 
it  is  conveyed  to  Diinkeld,  Crieff,  Methven,  Cupar  Angus,  and 
many  other  places  in  Forfarshire  and  Perthshire.  The  lime  is  of 
excellent  quality,  averaging  upwards  of  ninety  per  cent,  and  some 
of  it  being  entirely  pure.  The  demand  for  it  is  great,  and  con- 
stantly increasing,  insomuch  that  a  far  greater  quantity  might  be 
disposed  of  annually,  were  it  not  for  the  difficulty  that  has  been 
recently  felt  in  procuring,  at  a  reasonable  distance,  an  adequate 
supply  of  coals  for  burning  it.  The  rent  paid  annually  by  the 
tacksman  is  regulated  by  the  extent  of  rock  quarried,  and  ave- 
rages L,  365. 

The  price  of  the  lime  when  sold  at  the  hill  is  2s.  8d.  per  boll. 
The  expense  of  tirring  (or  mining)  and  burning  the  lime,  averages 
1  Od.  per  boll ;  the  expense  of  shipping  a  one  horse  cart-load  (of 
three  bolls)  at  Newburgh,  including  carriage,  tolls,  and  shore- 
dues,  is  4s.,  or  Is.  4d.  per  boll ;  the  number  of  workmen  (mostly, 
belonging  to  the  parish)  engaged  at  the  quarries  is  43 ;  and  their 
wages  per  week  are  from  9s.  to  1  Os. 

Besides  these  workmen,  the  lime-quarries  of  Cults  afford  em- 
ployment to  a  number  of  carters  in  conveying  coals  to  the  kilns, 
and  lime  to  the  port  of  Newburgh.  In  the  summer  season,  there 
are  upwards  of  a  hundred  carters  from  the  parishes  of  Cults,  Ce- 
res, Collessie,  Largo,  Kennoway,  Cupar,  Kettle,  and  Cameron, 
regularly  engaged  in  this  occupation.  The  greater  proportion  of 
these  are  tenants  of  small  farms,  which,  but  for  the  carting  of  coal 
and  lime,  would  not  afford  sufficient  work  for  their  horses.  The 
coals  for  burning  the  lime  are  brought  principally  from  Teasses,  in 
the  parish  of  Ceres,  a  small  quantity  from  Burnturk,  in  Kettle, 
and  from  Kilmux,  in  Leven  parish. 

Coal  Mmes.— There  were  coalmines  wrought,  about  fifty  years 
ago,  on  the  southern  declivity  of  the  Cults  hill.  These,  however, 
have  ever  since  been  neglected,  it  being  doubtful  whether  they 
could  be  wrought  to  any  advantage.  There  are  several  beds 
of  coal  reposmg  on  the  lime  strata.  One  of  these  is  12  inches 
m  thickness,  and  the  coal  is  obtained  from  it  in  the  process  of  tir- 
nng  for  the  limestone.  I  have  just  learned,  while  engaged  with 
this  Statistical  Account,  that  a  bed  of  parrot  coal  has  been  dis 


572 


FIFESHIRE. 


covered,  from  1  to  2  feet  in  thickness,  cropping  out  between  the 
two  uppermost  of  the  four  strata  of  limestone.  Of  what  extent 
this  seam  of  coal  may  be,  has  not  yet  been  ascertained. 

Sandstone  Q;/arries. —  There  are  a  number  of  freestone  quarries 
in  different  parts  of  the  parish.  The  supply  of  stones  is  abund- 
ant, and  easily  obtained,  and  the  quality  of  them  is,  in  some  cases, 
much  esteemed. 

Jmount  of  Raw  Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw 
produce  raised  annually  in  this  parish  is  as  under : 

Grain  of  all  kinds,  3400  quarters,  with  the  straw,                           L.  5100  0  0 

Potatoes  and  turnips,  6000  tons,  5000  0  0 

Hay,  1200  tons,  3000  0  0 

600  acres,  laid  down  in  pasture  at  L.  1 ,  5s.  per  acre,  750  0  0 

Produce  of  gardens,  180  0  0 

Thinning  and  felling  of  plantations,  140  0  0 

25,000  bolls  of  lime  at  2s.  8d.  per  boll ,  3333  6  8 

Quarrying  of  freestone,  road  metal,  coal,  &c.  about  36  !  3  4 

Gross  annual  amount  of  raw  produce,  L.  17,540    0  0 

Linen  Weaving. — This  branch  of  manufactures  gives  employ- 
ment to  a  large  proportion  of  the  parishioners.  The  kind  of  cloth 
woven  is  Dowlas.  The  webs  are  usually  140  yards  long,  and  30 
inches  wide,  containing  at  an  average  35  spindles  of  yarn.  The 
materials  are  supplied  by  manufacturers  in  Newburgh,  Leslie,  and 
Kettle,  who  have  agents  in  the  parish.  The  number  of  weavers 
is  85  males  and  65  females,  in  all  150.  Of  these  nearly  one-half 
are  boys  or  young  women  under  twenty  years  of  age  ;  while  more 
than  a  fifth  of  the  whole  number  are  regularly  employed  at  the 
loom  only  during  the  winter,  the  remainder  being  exclusively 
weavers,  and  following,  except  in  harvest,  no  other  occupation. 
The  average  gross  wages  per  web  are  17s.,  or,  deducting  2s.  6d. 
for  winding,  dressing,  &c.  the  clear  wages  per  web  may  be  stated 
at  14s.  6d.  The  average  rent  of  a  loom  stance  is  9s.  per  annum. 
The  number  of  webs  usually  wrought  in  the  course  of  a  year  can- 
not be  precisely  ascertained ;  1700  may  be  taken  as  a  fair  estimate. 
Their  value  when  wrought,  at  an  average  of  L.  5  per  web,  is 
L.  8500,  the  gross  sum  paid  for  weaving  them  at  17s.  is  L.  1445, 
of  which  the  weavers  receive,  as  their  clear  wages  at  14s.  6d., 
L.  1232,  10s.  As  to  wages  per  week,  few  even  of  the  best  weavers, 
working  steadily  twelve  or  fourteen  hours  a  day,  will,  after  clearing 
all  expenses,  realize  a  greater  sum  weekly  than  7s.  The  clear  ave- 
rage wages  earned  per  week  may  be  stated  at  not  more  than  5s.  for 
a  man  or  woman,  and  3s.  for  a  boy  or  girl.  The  weaving  of  linens. 


CULTS. 


573 


therefore,  cannot  be  considered  as  at  present  affording  by  any  means 
an  adequate  remuneration  for  the  labour  employed  in  it. 

Some  of  the  webs  being  warped  in  the  parish,  there  are  twenty- 
four  old  women  regularly  employed  in  winding  the  larger  bobbins 
for  the  warp, — at  which  they  may  earn  at  an  average  2s.  Id.  per 
week.  While  in  winding  the  smaller  bobbins  for  the  woof,  the 
weavers  usually  employ  their  wives  or  children.  At  this  latter  em- 
ployment, if  done  for  hire,  fi-om  2s.  6d.  to  3s.  may  be  made  per 
week. 

Tow  Spinning. — At  Hospital  Mill,  there  were  formerly  a  corn 
and  a  flax-mill,  which,  in  1821,  were  converted  into  a  mill  for 
spinning  tow,  at  a  cost  of  about  L.  4000.  The  wheel  when  fully 
supplied  with  water,  Cas  it  always  is  except  for  a  few  weeks  in 
summer,)  works  with  fourteen  horse  power.  The  mill  has  six  card- 
ing engines,  with  the  other  necessary  preparing  machinery,  and 
ten  spinning  frames,  containing  368  spindles.  The  size  of  yarn 
spun  varies  from  four  to  fourteen  pounds  imperial  per  spindle.  The 
quantity  spun  annually  is  from  160  to  180  tons,  and  its  average 
value  is  L.  7000.  The  principal  market  to  which  it  is  sent  is 
Dundee. 

In  this  factory,  there  are  employed  50  persons,  viz.  7  men  at 
wages  from  15s.  to  L.  1  per  week;  31  women,  5s.  6d.  to  6s.;  12 
children,  3s.  6d.  to  3s.  9d. 

There  is  another  factory  (Russell  Mill)  in  the  parish  of  Cupar, 
a  few  hundred  yards  beyond  the  boundary,  which  also  gives  em- 
ployment to  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Cults.  These  two  esta- 
blishments are  under  the  same  management.  In  both  of  them,  a 
most  laudable  attention  is  paid  to  the  comfort,  morals,  and  educa- 
tion of  the  working  people,  who  are  distinguished  at  once  by  their 
intelligence  and  their  morality. 

Mz7/s.— Besides  the  spinning-mill,  there  are  in  the  parish  of 
Cults  3  mills  for  flour,  barley,  malt,  and  oatmeal ;  1  for  cleaning 
yarn  ;  1  saw-mill  driven  by  water  ;  1  saw-mill  to  be  driven  by  steam 
in  the  course  of  being  erected  ;  3  thrashing  machines  driven  by  wa- 
ter ;  and  6  thrashing  machines  wrought  by  horses. 

Tradesmen.— The  different  tradesmen  in  Cults  are  as  follows, 
(masters,  journeymen,  and  apprentices  being  all  included)  :  7 
Wrights,  14  masons,  9  shoemakers,  4  tailors,  2  turners,  7  black- 
smiths, 2  bakers,  2  brewers,  and  5  grocers. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market  and  Post-Town — The  nearest  market  and  post-town 


574 


FIFRSIIIRE. 


is  Cupar,  about  four  miles  to  the  eastward,  where  there  is  a  week- 
ly market  held  every  Thursday. 

Means  of  Communication. — The  high  road  from  Dundee  to 
Edinburgh  traverses  the  parish,  and  three  coaches,  one  of  them 
the  mail-coach,  pass  along  it  daily  in  each  direction.  There 
is  a  carrier  from  Pitlessie  to  Cupar,  every  Thursday,  and  the  Cu- 
par and  Edinburgh  carriers  pass  that  village  thrice  a  week  going 
to  Edinburgh,  and  thrice  a  week  returning.  Letters  are  brought 
from  the  post-office  at  Cupar,  by  a  messenger  who  goes  thither 
with  letters  and  parcels  usually  every  day. 

Roads. — There  are  two  miles  of  turnpike-road  in  the  parish, 
and  six  miles  1615  yards  of  statute  labour  roads. 

Villages. — The  only  village  that  can  be  properly  so  called  is 
Pitlessie,  containing  516  inhabitants.  There  are  also  four  small 
hamlets  or  groups  of  houses  ;  Crossgates,  Walton,  Cults  Mill,  and 
Hospital  Mill,  containing  from  22  to  70  inhabitants. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
parish,  but  is  nearly  a  mile  distant  from  the  village  of  Pitlessie,  where 
the  mass  of  the  population  are  congregated.  It  was  built  in  1793, 
and  is  in  good  repair.  It  was  seated  originally  for  360  persons, 
but  a  want  of  seat-room  having  been  recently  felt,  the  kirk-session, 
in  July  1835,  requested  the  heritors  to  supply  it,  by  affording  ad- 
ditional accommodation.  The  heritors,  with  commendable  libera- 
lity, acceded  to  our  request,  so  that  there  is  now  ample  seat-room 
for  430  persons  ;  and  the  church,  it  may  be  added,  is  as  well  fil- 
led, now  that  it  is  enlarged,  as  it  was  before  the  addition  was  made. 

The  manse,  which  adjoins  the  church,  was  built  in  1795,  and  is  in 
good  repair.  The  glebe  consists  of  four  acres  of  good  arable 
land,  and  is  at  present  let  at  a  rent  of  L.  9.  There  is  no  foggage 
or  grass  glebe, — the  late  Mr  Wilkie  having,  with  the  concurrence 
of  the  Presbytery  of  Cupar,  agreed  to  accept  of  L.  2  Sterling  in 
lieu  of  it. 

The  stipend,  exclusive  of  vicarage  and  communion  elements, 
averages  L.  150.  It  is  as  follows:  barley,  41  bolls,  3  firlots, 
3  pecks,  1\\  lippies;  meal,  16  bolls,  3  pecks,  2^  hppies ; 
oats,  40  bolls,  1  peck,  2{|  lippies;  money  stipend  (including 
L.  3,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements),  L.  12,  7s.  2d. ;  sum  al- 
lowed from  the  Exchequer  to  augment  the  stipend,  L.  60,  2s.  ; 
vicarage,  L.  2,  lis.  8d. 

Religious  Denominations. — The  number  of  famihes  and  indivi- 
duals of  all  ages  belonging  to  the  different  religious  denominations, 
will  appear  from  the  following  table  : 


CULTS. 


Established  CInircli,  150  families.  678  persons. 

United  Associate  Synod,  29  .  136 

Relief  Synod,  -13  .  57 

Original  Burgher  Synod,  2  .  8 

Independents,  .  8  .  8 

Besides  these,  there  are  two  or  three  families  that  are  not  at- 
tached to  any  religious  denomination. 

There  is  a  Dissenting  chapel  in  Pitlessie,  in  connection  with  the 
United  Associate  Synod.  Twenty-five  years  ago,  there  was  in  the 
same  village  an  Independent  chapel,  which  has  since  been  con- 
verted into  a  dweUing-house,  the  congregation  attaching  them- 
selves, for  the  most  part,  either  to  the  Established  Church,  or  to 
some  other  Dissenting  communion.  The  number  of  communicants 
of  the  Established  Church  is  348. 

Education. — The  parish  school  is  in  the  village  of  Pitlessie.  The 
teacher  has  a  comfortable  house,  a  spacious  school-room,  the 
legal  extent  of  garden  ground,  and  the  maximum  salary  of  L.  34, 
4s.  4id.  The  branches  of  education  taught  by  him  are,  Latin, 
French,  Enghsh  grammar,  writing,  bookkeeping,  arithmetic,  al- 
gebra, navigation,  and  land-surveying.  The  school-fees  for  the 
different  branches  are,  2s.  per  quarter  for  reading;  3s.  forreadino-, 
and  writing ;  3s.  6d.  when  arithmetic  is  added ;  and  5s.  for  Latin. 
Taking  the  average  of  the  last  seven  years,  the  number  of  scho- 
lars is  60,  the  amount  of  school-fees  L.  30  per  annum,  and  the 
emoluments  of  the  teacher  derived  from  other  sources,  as  the  ses- 
sion clerkship  and  registration,  are  L.  6.  There  is  a  private  school 
taught  in  Pitlessie  at  present,  and  attended  by  45  scholars.  The 
branches  taught  in  it  are,  reading,  writing  and  arithmetic ;  and  the 
school  fees  are,  for  reading,  2s.  ;  for  writing  and  arithmetic,  2s, 
6d.  There  is  also,  in  a  remote  district  of  the  parish,  a  third  school 
taught  by  a  female,  and  attended  by  20  young  children  at  an  ave- 
rage, who  pay  some  of  them  Id.  and  others  2d.  per  week.  A 
Sabbath  school  is  taught  in  the  church,  attended  by  from  30  to 
40  young  people,  according  to  the  season  of  the  year. 

Poor.— The  average  number  of  paupers  receiving  regular  aid  is 
12.  The  sums  allowed  to  them  vary  from  4s.  to  10s.  per  month, 
exclusive  of  house-rent,  and  coals  in  winter,  with  which  they  are 
also  supplied.  Besides  these,  there  are  some  other  persons  to 
whom  occasional  assistance  is  given.  The  whole  expenses  of  the 
kirk-session,  for  th'e  last  seven  years,  average  L.  50  per  annum.  The 
annual  amount  of  collections  at  the  church-door  (exclusive  of 
those  for  religious  purposes)  averages  only  L.  12 ;  and  the  defici- 
ency has  of  late  years  been  supplied  partly  by  the  voluntary  con- 


576 


FIFESHIIIK. 


tributions  of  the  heritors,  and  partly  by  a  gift  of  L.  100  made  to 
the  kirk-session  by  the  Honourable  Lord  Lindsay,  as  legatee  of 
the  late  Lady  Mary  Lindsay  Crawfurd,  of  which  there  are  still 
L.  40  remaining.  Little  delicacy  is  shewn  in  applying  for  paro- 
chial aid, — the  independent  spirit  of  the  Scottish  peasantry  hav- 
ing, in  a  great  measure,  died  away  in  this  quarter.  In  the  course 
of  one  or  two  years,  a  legal  assessment  for  the  support  of  the  poor 
will  be  inevitable. 

Alehouses. — There  are  8  licensed  ale  and  spirit-dealers,  se- 
ven in  Pitlessie,  and  one  in  Crossgates. 

Puel. — The  fuel  principally  used  is  coal,  brought  for  the  most 
part  from  Balbirnie,  in  the  parish  of  Markinch,  about  six  miles  on 
the  road  to  Kirkcaldy.  Its  cost  at  the  pit  is  Is.  3d.  per  load  of 
18  stone. 

Pairs. — There  were  formerly  two  annual  fairs  in  Pitlessie,  for 
the  sale  of  agricultural  stock,  chiefly  cattle,  the  one  held  on  the 
second  Tuesday  of  May,  old  style,  and  the  other  on  the  third 
Wednesday  of  October,  old  style.  The  latter  has  for  some  years 
been  discontinued ;  the  former  is  still  kept,  and  is  very  generally 
resorted  to.  It  is  one  of  the  best  attended  fairs  in  the  county  of  Fife. 
Miscellaneous  Observations. 

In  comparing  the  state  of  the  parish  now,  with  what  it  appears 
to  have  been  in  1791,  when  the  last  Statistical  Account  was  writ- 
ten, little  occurs  as  worthy  of  remark.  Great  improvements  have, 
as  might  have  been  expected,  taken  place  in  agriculture.  Instead 
of  900  Scots,  equal  to  1 134  imperial  acres,  the  whole  extent  of 
arable  land  in  1791,  there  are  now  1900  imperial  acres  under  re- 
gular cultivation.  The  extent  of  woodland  has  greatly  diminish- 
ed, there  being  now  only  115  imperial  acres  of  wood,  instead  of 
400  Scots,  equal  to  504  imperial  acres.  The  population  was  then 
534;  it  is  now  914.  The  wages  of  a  day-labourer  were  then  lOd. 
per  day ;  they  are  now  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  8d.  Houses  for  labour- 
ers were  then  let  at  from  4s.  to  L.  1  a  year ;  they  are  let  now  at 
from  L.  1  to  L.  3.  There  were  then  only  two  thrashing-machines, 
there  are  now  nine.  The  old  Statistical  Account  makes  no  men- 
tion of  manufactures,  from  which  it  may  be  concluded  that  they 
did  not  then  form,  by  any  means,  so  important  a  source  as  they 
now  do,  of  employment  and  subsistence  to  the  parishioners.  Since 
1791,  the  following  buildings  have  been  erected  :  a  spinning-mill, 
a  saw-mill,  a  yarn-mill,  a  stone  bridge  across  the  Eden  at  Clush- 
ford,  the  present  Church,  the  manse,  and  Crawfurd  priory. 

June  1838. 


BALMERINO. 


577 


ADDENDUM. 

While  these  pages  have  been  passing  through  the  press,  I  have 
been  informed  by  Dr  Anderson  of  Newburgh,  to  whom  I  am  in- 
debted for  the  geology  of  the  parish,  that  an  omission  occurs  in 
the  series  of  deposits,  as  described  by  him,  and  that,  immediately 
after  the  second  paragraph  in  which  the  yellow  sandstone  is  noti- 
ced, several  other  beds  should  be  stated  as  following  in  the  order 
of  superposition.    Immediately  above  the  yellow  sandstone,  a  se- 
ries of  alternating  beds  of  sandstone,  coal,  ironstone,  and  shale  oc- 
cur.   There  are  two  thin  seams  of  coal,  the  lowest  of  which  may 
be  observed  cropping  out  at  the  farm  steading  of  Cults-Dam,  and 
the  other  beds  have  been  quarried  about  a  mile  to  the  westward. 
The  thickness  of  the  whole  appears  to  be  about  200  feet. 
For  «orthocerates,"in  the  next  paragraph,  read  «  orthoceratites." 


PARISH  OF  BALMERINO. 

PRESBYTEEY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

REV.  JOHN  THOMSON,  MINISTER. 


Topography  and  Natural  History 
Name,  <§-c.— The  name  of  this  parish,  according  to  the  most  an- 
cient orthography,  is  Balmurynach,  Balmerinoch,  and  more  recent- 
ly Balmerino,~ievms  obviously  of  Gothic  origin,  and  compounded 
of  two  words  signifying  "  Sailor's  Town."  It  would  appear  that 
the  name  was  first  applied  to  a  small  village  of  remote  antiquity, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  estuary  of  the  Tay  and 
which,  so  early  as  the  thirteenth  century,  attracted  the  notice  of  the 
court  as  an  eligible  summer  residence,-Queen  Emergarde  having 
requently  visited  the  place  for  the  benefit  of  her  health  ;  and  clos^ 

r  it''"i?'''^"°"y°^        S^^^'*"^^'         f°"nded  an  abbey 

lke^vlse  a  term  of  Gothic  origin,  which  according  to  the  manu- 
-npt  register  of  the  priory  of  St  Andrews,  w.as  ancient^  w  "en 

Sot  n7     T  ^hort,  and  to  modern  ears  less 

tnZl:T:  1  ^he  best 

authorities,  had  sole  possession  of  the  whole  of  this  district  of  the 


5T8 


FIFESHIRE. 


county,  for  aperiod  of  at  least  athousand  years ;  and  no  wonder  that,  in 
the  course  of  that  time,  their  language  should  have  given  names  to 
every  locality  within  their  dominions,  many  traces  of  which  are  still 
to  be  found  in  this  immediate  neighbourhood. 

Boundaries  and  Extent— The  parish  stretches  along  the  south 
bank  of  the  estuary  of  Tay,  from  near  the  mansion-house  of 
Birkhill,  on  the  west,  to  the  Wormit  Bay  on  the  east.  From 
these  two  points,  it  ranges  in  a  semicircular  form  towards  the 
small  stream  of  Motray,  which  constitutes  its  boundary  on  the 
south.  Its  length  along  the  Tay  from  east  to  west,  is  about  3^ 
miles,  and  its  breadth  from  north  to  south  about  2^  miles.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Frith  of  Tay ;  on  the  west,  by 
the  parish  of  Flisk  ;  on  the  south  by  Kilmany ;  on  the  east  by 
Forgan  or  St  Fillans.  Within  this  area  there  are  contained  about  8 
square  miles. 

Topographical  Appearances.— Tv/o  hilly  ridges  traverse  the 
parish  from  east  to  west,  and  run  neariy  parallel  to  each  other. 
The  Scurr  Hill  and  Coultry  Hill  form  the  loftiest  points  of  their 
respective  ridges ;  the  former,  which  rises  in  the  northern  divi- 
sion of  the  parish,  attains  an  elevation  of  about  400  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Tay ;  and  the  latter,  which  occupies  the  southern 
division,  is  about  500.  The  manse  and  church  are  beautifully  si- 
tuated within  the  intervening  valley,  which  at  this  point  is  very 
narrow,  but  gradually  stretches  out  to  considerable  dimensions  m 
its  progress  eastward.    About  the  centre  of  the  southern  ridge, 
there  is  a  considerable  extent  of  high  table-land  in  which  the  vil- 
lage of  Galdry  is  placed ;  the  ground  slopes  gently  down  on  the 
south  towards  the  valley  of  Kilmany,  and  is  terminated  on  the  east 
by  the  ravine  of  Wormit-Den,  which  here  separates  the  parish 
from  Forgan  :  the  hamlets  of  Coultry  and  Corbie  Hill  he  towards 
the  western  extremity.    The  northern  ridge  declines  more  rapidly 
towards  the  Tay,  the  shores  of  which,  along  the  whole  boundary, 
are  extremely  bold  and  rocky,  rising  in  some  places  mto  precipi- 
tous mural  cliffs.    The  villages  of  Kirkton  and  Bal  merino  are 
both  situated  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Scurr  Hill ;  and  a  little 
to  the  south  lie  the  ruins  of  the  Abbey,  where  the  ground  gradu- 
ally declines  towards  the  banks  of  the  Tay.    The  house  of  Naugh- 
ton  is  built  on  the  southern  accUvity  of  a  small  isolated  ridge, 
which  rises  abruptly  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  church,  in  the  centre 
of  the  valley,  on  the  summit  of  which  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle 
still  to  be  seen.    A  beautiful  picturesque  dell  lies  immediate- 


are 


BALMERINO. 


579 


ly  beneath,  from  the  bottom  of  which  the  rock  springs  perpendi- 
cularly to  the  height  of  ninety  or  one  hundred  feet,  and  which  is 
overhung  by  the  walls  of  the  building;  presenting  no  mean  idea 
of  the  strength  of  a  place  that  must  have  frequently  been  put  to 
proof  by  the  rude  assailants  of  a  former  age.  The  parish  is  well 
wooded,  every  spot  almost,  which  is  less  adapted  for  tillage,  being 
covered  with  thriving  plantations,  and  without  which,  many  of  the 
grounds,  from  their  elevated  situation,  would  suffer  much  by  their 
exposure  to  the  easterly  gales. 

Climate.— Fevf  places  in  Fife  can  boast  of  a  healthier  climate. 
The  soil  is  generally  dry,  resting  immediately,  over  the  greater 
part,  on  whinstone  rock ;  and  there  is  neither  bog  nor  marsh  to 
interfere  with  its  general  salubrity.    Ancient  history,  as  well  as 
modern  experience,  attests  its  superiority  in  this  respect.  Martin 
takes  notice  of  the  fact  in  his  history  of  the  See  of  St  Andrews. 
"  Magdalene,  Queen  of  James  V.  being,"  he  says,  «  a  tender  Lady' 
the  physicians  choosed  this  place  (St  Andrews),  and  the  Abacie 
of  Balmerinoch,  as  having  the  best  aers  of  any  places  in  the  king- 
dome  for  her  residence  and  abode."    In  subsequent  generations, 
dames  of  meaner  degree  have  been  no  less  indebted  to  the  excel' 
lence  of  its  "  aers,"  as  the  following  well  authenticated  facts 
clearly  prove.    The  writer  of  the  former  Statistical  account  says, 
"  The  wholesomeness  of  the  climate  appears  also  from  the  fruit- 
fulness  of  the  females.    The  present  incumbent  has  often,  in  the 
course  of  ten  years,  had  an  opportunity  of  baptizing  twins;  and 
there  are  two  families  in  the  parish  at  present,  one  of  whom  has 
had  thrice  twins,  and  the  other  had  five  sons  at  two  births  "  I 
may  be  permitted  to  add,  that  that  individual,  during  his  incum 
bency,  baptized,  in  the  parish,  three  times  trines. 

Few  parishes  of  equal  extent  contain  a  greater  number  of  very 
old  people.  There  are  at  present  35  individuals  bordering 
on  or  upwards  of  eighty  years.  One  woman  is  in  her  ninetv-fifth 
year,  and  another  died  last  year  in  her  hundredth.  From  March 
1836  to  March  1837  six  individuals  died,  whose  united  ages  amount- 
ed to  five  hundredand  twelve,  giving  an  average  of  eighty  five-years 
first  year  '"^umbent  died  in  March  1836,  in  his  ninety- 

Hydrography.-The  Tay,  as  already  noticed,  washes  the  north- 
ern boundary  of  the  parish,  and,  possessing  a  considerable  pro- 
per ion  of  salme  matter,  affords,  everywhere  along  the  coast,  excel- 
lent opportunities  of  bathing  to  the  inhabitants.    The  estuary  is 


580 


FIFESHIIIE. 


here  about  four  miles  broad,  but,  as  high  sand-banks  stretch  out- 
ward for  nearly  a  mile,  vessels  of  limited  burden  only  can  approach 
the  harbour.     No  river  or  stream  of  any  consequence  passes 
through  the  parish,  but  there  are  various  springs  from  which  a  co- 
pious flow  of  water  continually  issues,  which,  along  with  that  col- 
lected from  the  drainage  of  the  land,  afibrds  power  enough  for 
three  thrashing  and  one  corn-ntiill.    The  springs  have  obviously 
served,  in  other  days,  a  more  dignified  and  important  end  than 
the  practical  and  economical  one  to  which  they  are  now  applied. 
This  appears  from  the  names  by  which  some  of  them  are  still  de  • 
signated,  viz.  the  Lady  Well,  Prior  Well,  St  John's  Well,  &c. 

Geoloffi/*— The  rocks  in  this  parish  belong  exclusively  to  the 
sandstone  and  trap  families.    Of  the  former  there  are  two  va- 
rieties, both  of  which  belong  to  the  old  red  sandstone  formations. 
One  of  these  is  the  gray  sandstone,  which  is  considered  by  Dr 
Anderson  (Edin.  Phil.  Journal,  July  1837,)  as  the  lowest  member 
of  the  series,  and  which,  from  the  organic  remains  imbedded  in 
it,  he  regards  as  the  same  with  the  beds  that  traverse  the  Sidlaws, 
Strathmore,  and  the  upper  part  of  Strathearn.    These  remains  are 
exclusively  vegetable,  being  the  culms,  leaves,  and  fruit  of  the  or- 
der Graminese,  and  which  -are  found  in  great  abundance  in  one 
of  the  softer  beds  of  the  deposit  that  emerges  a  little  to  the  west 
of  Wormit  Bay.    From  this  point,  where  it  ntiay  be  traced  across 
the  frith  to  Invergowrie  bay,  the  sandstone  ranges  westward  through 
the  parish,  cropping  out  at  Demmons,  and  various  other  places 
on  the  estate  of  Birkhill.    It  is  an  extremely  compact  and  dura- 
ble rock,  and  is  admirably  adapted  for  building  operations.  The 
bed  in  which  the  organic  remains  are  found,  is  friable  and  soft, 
and  seems  to  abound  more  in  aluminous  than  silicious  matter. 
The  mica  is  also  very  abundant  in  this  part  of  the  deposit. 

The  other  variety  of  sandstone  is  of  a  reddish  colour.  It  crops 
out  immediately  at  the  harbour,  and  ranges  westward  to  Birkhdl, 
where  it  may  be  observed  on  the  beach  beneath  the  mansion-house. 
It  contains  a  considerable  quantity  of  quartzy  nodules,  and  por- 
tions of  other  primitive  rocks,  A  scale— only  one— has  been 
found  in  it,  similar  to  those  which  occur  so  abundantly  in  the  Park- 
hill  and  Clashbennie  beds,  also  at  Dura  and  Drumdryan,  and 
from  this  circumstance,  it  may  fairly  be  regarded  as  acontmuation 
of  these  interesting  rocks.     The  bed  at.  the  harbour  is  coarse 

•  For  this  geological  description  I  hsvc  been  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Dr  Anderson  of 
Mewburgh. 


BALMERINO. 


581 


grained,  compact,  and  hard,  and  at  one  time  was  much  sought  after 
for  oven  floors. 

The  trap  or  whinstone  consists  of  several  varieties,  namely,  amygda- 
loid, trap  tuffa,  compact  felspar,  clinkstone,  and  claystone  porphyry. 
Interesting  sections  of  each  may  be  seen  along  the  shore,  from  the 
harbour  towards  Wormit  Bay.  The  amygdaloid  is  generally  coarse 
and  tufifaceous,  but  gradually  passes,  in  many  places,  into  a  finer  va- 
riety, which  may  be  considered  as  approaching  to  the  characters 
of  a  greenstone.    The  numerous  cavities  contained  in  the  coarse 
kind  are  lined  with  white  amethyst,  flesh-red  calcareous  spar, 
white  felspar,  calcedony,  agate,  green  earth,  and  common  quartz. 
In  these  nodular  masses,  the  calcedony  appears  to  have  been  first 
deposited  and  the  quartz  last.     The  Scurr  Hill  is  well  known  to 
the  lapidaries  and  other  collectors  of  these  beautiful  minerals, 
and  no  part  of  the  island,  perhaps,  affords  in  such  abundance,  as 
well  as  such  rare  and  choice  specimens  of  the  several  varieties  of 
agates.    The  compact  felspar  becomes  porphyritic,  is  of  a  deep 
flesh-red  colour,  and  susceptible  of  a  fine  pohsh.    The  whole  of 
these  rocks,  as  may  be  seen  at  Wormit  Bay  and  Birkhill,  are  in- 
timately associated  with  the  stratified  deposits,  and  afford  the  stu- 
dent in  geology  an  interesting  view  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
igneous  matter  has  been  injected  amongst  the  sedimentary  beds ; 
as  well  as  the  induration  and  disruptions  among  the  latter,  that 
have  resulted  from  the  intrusion  of  the  former.    The  sandstone 
is,  in  many  instances,  by  the  intrusion  of  the  trap,  spht  up  into  thin 
laminae,  varying  from  an  inch  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness; 
it  is  sometimes  tossed  into  a  vertical  position ;  and  in  other  cases, 
as  at  Birkhill  beach,  the  two  rocks  are  so  blended  and  mixed  up 
with  each  other,  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  distinguish  them,  or 
to^separate  the  amorphous  from  the  stratified  portions. 

Boulders  of  primitive  rocks  are  to  be  found  in  every  locality 
along  the  shore,  as  well  as  on  the  highest  ridges.  One  of  huge 
dimensions,  which  lay  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  manse,  excited  no 
small  degree  of  attention,  as  well  as  speculation,  among  the  peo- 
ple, as  to  the  means  by  which  it  had  been  placed,  bridge-like, 
across  a  stream  there.  It  measured  about  twelve  feet  in  length 
by  nine  in  breadth,  and  was  of  great  thickness.  By  the  last  in- 
cumbent, who  was  fonder  of  practical  agricultural  improvements 
than  of  plausible  and  ingenious  speculations,  it  was  unceremonious- 
ly committed  to  the  blasting  influences  of  gunpowder,  when,  after 
being  blown  into  an  hundred  fragments,  it  afforded  employment 


582 


PI  FES  II I  HE. 


of  many  days  hard  work  before  it  could  be  carted  away  to  the  en- 
closures on  the  grass  glebe.  It  was  a  primitive  hornblend,  or 
greenstone  rock,  and  must  have  been  transported  from  beyond 
"  the  far  distant  Grampians"  by  the  agency  of  floods,  of  which  we 
have  now  happily  no  experience. 

Soil — The  soil  is  in  general  thin,  of  a'black  loamy  quality  where 
it  rests  immediately  upon  the  whinstone ;  and  is  fit  for  carrying 
crops  of  every  description.  This  is  generally  the  character  of  the 
fields  which  range  along  the  southern  and  northern  divisions  of 
the  parish.  Much  of  the  intervening  valley  consists  of  either  a 
light  and  gravelly  soil,  or  of  a  strong  plastic  till,  but,  through  the 
operations  of  an  enterprising  tenantry,  it  has  been  rendered  com- 
pletely fertile. 

Botany. — The  plants  which  occur  in  this  parish  are  such  as  are 
common  to  the  general  flora  of  the  Ochils,  and,  as  it  can  boast  of 
neither  lake  nor  marsh,  few  aquatics  are  found  within  it.  Along 
the  shore,  the  following  are  to  be  met  with  :  Scirpus  maritimus, 
Agrostis  vulgaris,  Hordeum  maritimum,  Triticum  loliaceum,  Glaux 
maritima,  Rumex  maritima,  Statice  Armeria,  Alisma  plantago, 
Cochlearia  Anglica,  Artemisia  maritima.  Throughout  the  other 
districts  of  the  parish  the  following  occur  abundantly  :  Fedia 
olitoria,  Iris  pseudacorus,  Briza  media,  Parietaria  officinalis. 
Primula  vulgaris,  elatior  and  veris,  Agrimonia  eupatoria,  Geum 
rivale,  Bartsia  odontites,  Geranium  srjlvaticum,  Malva  sylvestris, 
Scrophularia  nodosa,  Euphorbia  paralia,  Silene  injlata.  Lychnis 
Flos-cuculi  and  dioica,  Tussilago  petasites,  Tulipa  sylvestris,  once 
abundant  at  the  Abbey,  but  now  very  rare. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Under  this  head,  few  particulars  can  be  gleaned,  from  any  au- 
thentic sources,  of  sufficient  importance  to  be  communicated  to 
the  public.  The  history  of  the  Monastery,  which  will  be  noticed 
in  its  proper  place,  is  connected  with  the  earliest  transactions  that 
are  to  be  found  in  the  records  of  the  parish  ;  and  as  there  are  no 
chartered  towns  in  it,  or  corporations  of  any  kind,  nothing  of  a 
civic  or  burghal  description  requires  to  be  stated. 

Eminent  Men.— Among  the  list  of  eminent  men,  however,  its 
annals  can  justly  boast  of  two,  if  public  notoriety  or  a  tragical 
end  entitle  any  to  that  distinction.  One  of  these  was  the  ce- 
lebrated Lord  Balmerino,  who  suffered  for  his  share  in  the  re- 
bellion of- 1745,  and  whose  history  is  too  well  known  to  need 
repetition  here.    The  family  estate  was  in  this  parish,  and  pas- 


BALMERINO. 


583 


sed,  after  its  forfeiture  to  the  Crown,  into  the  hands  of  the  York- 
Building  Company,  from  whom  it  was  purchased  by  the  family  of 
Moray,  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Francis  Stuart,  Esq.,  ne- 
phew of  the  present  Earl.  The  other  individual  alluded  to  is 
Andrew  GuUan,  who  was  also  a  native  of  this  parish,  and  was 
hanged  on  Magus  Muir  as  an  accessory  to  the  murder  of  Archbi- 
shop Sharpe,  being  convicted  of  the  crime  ".of  holding  Halker- 
stone  of  Rathillet's  mare,"  while  the  principal  conspirators  were 
engaged  in  that  bloody  deed. 

A  name  of  less  questionable  distinction  than  either  of  the  above 
remains  to  be  noticed, — Mr  Peter  Hay,  son  of  the  laird  of  Meg- 
ginsh,  and  who  becamie  proprietor  of  Naughton  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  seventeenth  century.  This  gentleman  was  author  of 
a  work  entitled  "  The  First  Blast  of  the  Trumpet,"  printed  in 
1627,  and  which  is  well  known  to  have  had  considerable  influence 
on  the  stirring  events  of  that  reforming  age.  It  excited  the  spe- 
cial displeasure  ef  Archbishop  Spottiswood,  as  appears  from  the 
records  of  the  synod  of  St  Andrews,  in  which  the  following  allu- 
sion to  it  occurs :  "  The  Synod  haldin  at  St  Androis,  2d  October 
1627,  my  Lord  Archbishop  desyred  that  the  purpose  concerning 
Mr  Peter  Hay  of  Naughton  his  bulk,  suld  not  be  mentioned  in 
the  Publict  Synod,  and  declaired  that  his  Lordship  would  not  be 
present  if  the  sam  war  spoken  of."  * 

Parliamentary  Constituency. — The  number  of  persons  who  are 
qualified  to  vote  for  a  Member  of  Parliament,  in  consequence  of 
the  Magna  Charta  of  1832,  amounts  to  22. 

Land-owners. —  The  principal  proprietors  in  the  parish  are,  Mrs 
Bethune  Morison  of  Naughton ;  Henry  Scrimgeour  Wedderburn, 
Esq.  of  Wedderburn  and  Birkhill ;  and  Francis  Stuart,  Esq.  of 
Balmerino.  There  are  five  additional  heritors,  whose  properties 
are  comparatively  small.  Two  of  the  principal,  and  three  of  the 
small,  heritors  reside  in  the  parish. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  earliest  records  of  the  session,  in- 
cluding births  and  marriages,  date  from  1652,  and  have  been  to- 
lerably well  kept. 

Antiquities. — The  ruins  of  the  Abbey  of  Balmerino  constitute 
the  chief  object  of  attraction  under  this  head.  The  site  of  the 
building  has  been  admirably  chosen,  as  -a  place  at  once  of  beauty, 
comfort,  and  convenience,  standing  on  an  eminence  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  Tay,  and  commanding  a  full  view  of  that 

•  The  Synod  of  Fife,  printed  for  the  Abbotsford  Club,  1837. 


584 


FIFESHIRE. 


noble  estuary,  as  far  up  as  its  junction  with  the  Earn.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  south  bank  of  the  Frith,  about  twelve  miles  from  its 
mouth,  -and  overlooks,  towards  the  north,  the  rich  and  fertile  Carse 
of  Gowrie,  where  the  eye  is  presented  with  a  wide  range  of  pleas- 
ing and  impressive  scenery,  with  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Grampians 
towering  majestically  above  the  whole ;  forming  such  a  richly  di- 
versified and  striking  panorama,  as  may  vie  with  those  of  greater 
celebrity. 

This  monastery  was  founded  by  Alexander  II.  in  the  year 
1229,  at  the  suggestion  of  his  mother,  Emergarde,  widow  of  King 
William  the  Lyon,  in  consequence  of  the  beauty  of  the  situation, 
and  the  benefit  she  had  derived  to  her  health  by  her  occasional 
visits  to  the  district.  It  belonged  to  the  order  of  the  Cistertians, 
whose  earliest  settlement  in  this  country  was  at  Melros,  and  was 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  St  Edward  the  Confessor.  The 
dress  of  the  Cistertians  was  a  white  cassock,  whence  they  were 
called  "  Monachi  alhi"  with  a  narrow  scapulary,  over  which  they 
wore  a  black  gown  when  they  went  abroad,  and  a  white  one  when 
they  went  to  the  church.  The  rules  of  the  order  were  those  of 
St  Benedict,  which,  in  regard  to  food  and  other  necessaries  for  the 
table,  enjoined  the  utmost  plainness  and  abstinence,  in  the  shape 
of  everything  that  approached  to  luxury.  Flesh  was  allowed  only 
to  the  sick.  They  might  use  the.  common  herbs  of  the  country, 
but  pepper  and  the  foreign  spices  were  forbidden.  It  was  direct- 
ed that  their  monasteries  should  be  situated  in  the  most  retired  and 
solitary  places :  and  that  the  monks  were  to  live  by  the  labour  of 
their  hands,  in  cultivating  the  earth,  and  keeping  cattle.  When 
any  of  them  went  abroad,  they  were  obliged  always  to  go  two  to- 
gether, to  guard  and  witness  each  others  conduct,  and  to  prompt 
each  other  to  good  thoughts.  They  all  slept  in  the  same  dormi- 
tory, which  was  a  long  room,  not  divided  into  separate  cells ;  and 
each  monk  had  a  bed  to  himself,  furnished  with  a  mat,  blanket, 
coverlet,  and  pillow,  which  was  prescribed  to  be  only  a  foot  and  a 
half  long.  The  superior  ecclesiastics  took  considerable  pains  to 
cultivate  and  promote  learning,  so  that  from  the  strictness  of  the 
rules,  and  the  works  that  resulted  from  their  labours,  the  Cister- 
tian  order  soon  acquired  celebrity,  and  speedily  came  to  have 
monasteries  in  every  country  in  Europe,  all  of  which  had  the  pri- 
vilege of  being  independent  of  the  bishop  within  whose  diocese  they 
were  situated  * 

•  Annales  Cistertiensis.  Monastic  Annals  of  Tivioidale,  by  tho  Rev.  J.  Mor- 
ton, B.  D. 


BALMEUINO. 


585 


The  Abbey  of  Balmerino  seems  to  have  been  richly  endowed, 
when  we  consider  the  abstemious  habits  and  severe  rules  enjoined 
upon  the  order.  Queen  Emergarde  bestowed  upon  it  the  lands 
of  Cultrach,  Balmurynach  and  Ardin,  which  she  bought  from  Sir 
Adam  de  Stawell  for  1000  merks  Sterling;*  and  she  left  200 
merks,  to  be  bestowed  by  her  executors  in  purchasing  from  Lau- 
rence de  Abernithy,  a  full  resignation  of  his  interest  in  the  lands 
of  Cultrach,  Balnedan,  Balnedart,  Corteby  and  Balmurynach. 
King  Alexander  granted  the  foundation  charter  on  3d  February 
1230,-f-  and  added  to  the  lands  bestowed  by  his  mother,  the  church 
and  lands  of  Lochmure  (?)  in  Angus,  and  Petgornoc  and  Drum- 
dol  in  Fife.  David  de  Lindesay  gives  it  an  annuity  out  of  his  mill 
of  Kirkhuet,  which  was  confirmed  by  King  Alexander  II.  in  1233. 
The  preceptory  of  Gadvan,  near  Denbog,  in  Fife,  with  the  house 
and  lands,  belonged  also  to  this  abbey  ;  and  two  or  three  monks 
of  their  order  constantly  resided  in  that  place.  1^ 

Balmerino,  in  the  course  of  the  thirteenth,  or  early  in  the 
fourteenth  century,  received  several  benefactions  fiV)m  persons  of 
the  family  of  Kynner,  of  lands  in  the  territories  of  Kynner  and 
Cotholoc ;  a  fishing  in  Tay  from  Sir  David  de  Berkeley  of  Brechin ; 
the  quarry  of  Nydin  from  Hugh  de  Nydin ;  and  numerous  small 
burgage  possessions  in  Perth,  Dundee,  Crail,  and  Anstruther. 
In  the  year  1561,  at  the  time  of  the  dissolution  of  the  monasteries, 
the  revenues  of  this  abbey  were,  in  money  L.  704,  2s.  lO^d.;  wheat, 
4  chalders;  oats,  1  chalder,  14  bolls,  1  firlot,  31  pecks;  meal,  15 
chalders,  12  bolls,  2  firlots;  bear  21  chalders,  12  bolls,  3  firlots, 
l^peck;  total  43  chalders,  6  bolls,  3  firlots,  1  peck;  and  763 
poultry. 

The  monks  of  Balmerino  did  not  always  adhere  rigidly  to  the 
rules  of  their  order.  With  the  progress  of  their  wealth,  and  the 
benefactions  which  were  from  time  to  time  bestowed  upon  them, 
they  became  gradually  more  and  more  relaxed  in  their  habits,  till 
they  came,  according  to  the  Franciscan  of  Buchanan,  to  share  in 
all  the  corruptions  of  the  times.  In  1 533,§  a  special  commission 
was  appointed  to  visit  and  reform  the  monasteries  thoughout  Scot- 
land. The  faults  which  particularly  called  forth  this  animadver- 
sion, were  infringements  of  the  rule  which  forbade  the  brethren  to 
possess  any  private  property,  but  to  have  all  things  in  common. 

*  Anno  1225,  Chartul.  of  Balmerinoch,  Advocates'  Library.        +  Ibid. 
^  Keith's  Scottish  Bishops,  edited  by  Dr  Russell,  1824. 
§  Harleian  MSS.  2363.    Monastic  Annals  of  Tiviotdale. 


586 


FIFESIIIRE. 


It  was  found  that  many  of  the  monks,  especially  in  the  abbeys  of 
Melros,  Newbattle,  and  Balmerino  had  not  only  portions  and  pen- 
sions allowed  them  for  their  food  and  clothing,  but  that  each  monk 
had  also  a  garden  appropriated  to  his  own  particular  use  and  pleasure. 
The  visitor,  therefore,  in  his  visitation  roll  specified  these  things  as 
illicit  indulgences,  which  he  enjoined  them  forthwith  to  relinquish. 
With  this  the  monks  did  not  comply,  and  after  a  convocation  of 
them  had  been  held  at  Edinburgh,  it  was  agreed  that  they  might 
retain  their  private  gardens,  provided  no  monk  had  a  larger  one 
han  another,  and  that  a  common  way  was  made  through  all  the 
gardens  by  opening  a  passage  from  one  to  another,  the  produc- 
tions of  the  whole  being  made  a  common  stock,  and  applied  to 
the  use  of  the  convent.  The  garden  ground  of  this  monastery 
seems  to  have  been  immediately  around  the  building,  as  is  still  in- 
dicated by  the  name,  viz.  the  orchard  and  over-yards,  by  the  rich- 
ness of  the  soil,  its  black  loamy  character,  and  the  abundance  of 
oyster  shells  contained  in  it,  and  must  have  comprised  an  extent 
of  many  acres. 

The  abbey  was  demolished  by  the  Lords  of  the  Congregation 
on  their  way  from  St  Andrews  in  1 568.*  The  last  abbot  was  Sir 
John  Hay,  probably  of  the  family  of  Naughton.  He  was  master 
of  requests  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary  f  in  1561.  After  the  Re- 
formation, the  abbey  was  erected  into  a  temporal  lordship,  in  fa- 
vour of  Sir  James  Elphinston  of  Barnton,  created  Lord  Balmeri- 
noch,  20th  February  ]  604,  whose  rise  to  power,  and  subsequent 
condemnation  and  disgrace,  are  matters  of  public  history. 

The  building  is  now  a  complete  ruin,  a  small  portion  of  the 
walls  and  a  few  pillars  being  all  that  remains  to  indicate  the  an- 
cient magnificence  of  the  monastery.  One  arched  room,  indeed, 
and  a  cell  or  dormitory,  is  still  pretty  entire ;  but  to  what  part  of  the 
erection  these  belonged ,  it  is  impossible  to  conjecture.  The  pil- 
lars are  clustered,  and  the  corbals  or  capitals  from  which  the  arches 
spring,  and  some  of  the  key-stones,  bear  marks  of  the  elegance 
with  which  they  have  been  originally  finished  ;  on  many  of  which 
the  Ukeness  of  fruit,  flowers,  and  religious  emblems,  as  well  as 
more  grotesque  figures,  may  still  be  traced.  A  drawing  of  the 
building  as  it  stands  may  be  seen  in  Swan's  Views  in  Fife,  now 
in  the  progress  of  publication. 

The  old  Castle  of  Naughton,  already  alluded  to,  is  equally  now 


•  Lesly,  &c. 


t  Sibbald's  Fife,  Ed.  1803. 


BALMEUINO. 


587 


"  the  shadow  of  a  shade," — all  that  remains  of  it  being  a  few 
fragments  of  the  lower  parts  of  the  side  walls.  This  place  is  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Robertas  de  Lundon,  a  natural  son  of  King 
William.  Soon  after,  Naughton  was  acquired  by  John  de  Haya, 
the  third  son  of  William  de  Haya,  the  first  of  the  family  of  Errol.* 
The  Hays  are  mentioned  as  Lairds  of  Naughton  about  King 
Alexander  HI.'s  reign,  f  In  1494,  Sir  Patrick  Crichton  got 
the  lands  in  marriage  with  Janet,  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir 
James  de  la  Hay.]:  From  the  Crichtons,  Mr  Peter  Hay,§  a  son  of 
the  Laird  of  Megginsh  purchased  the  lands  in  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century.  In  the  year  1737,  the  estate  was  brought  to 
ajudicial  sale  by  the  creditors  of  Robert  Hay  of  Naughton,  and  pur- 
chased by  William  Morison,  Esq.  the  great  grandfather  of  the 
present  proprietor,  Mrs  Bethune  Morison. 

Here,  according  to  Sibbald,  there  was  an  establishment  of 
Culdees  in  connection  with  that  of  St  Andrews.  Three  churches 
are  particularly  mentioned  in  "  Extracts  from  the  Large  Regis- 
ter :"  one  at  Forteviot,  one  at  Monechata,  or  Moonzie,  and  one  at 
Doldanha  or  Nauchton.  These  buildings,  it  appears,  were  all  of 
wood  ;  and,  of  course,  conjecture  as  to  the  site  of  the  erection  here 
would  be  vain.  Monechata  is  supposed  by  Dr  Jamieson,  in  his 
history  of  the  Culdees,  to  be  Monikie  in  Forfarshire ;  but  if  Dol- 
danha be  an  allowable  transition  into  Nauchton,  there  can  be  no 
reasonable  objection  upon  this  ground,  to  the  change  of  Monechata, 
into  Moonzie,  which,  along  with  Forteviot,  was  ever  afterwards  at- 
tached to  the  see  of  St  Andrews,  when  the  Culdee  establishments 
gave  way  to  the  monastic  institutions. 

There  is  a  field  in  the  parish  called  the  Battle-law,  where  the 
Scots,  itis  said,  attacked  the  Danes  after  their'retreat  from  Luncarty, 
again  defeated,  and  forced  them  to  flee  with  precipitation,  on 
board  their  ships,  then  lying  in  the  mouth  of  Tay.  Near  this 
field,  have  been  found  stone-coffins,  bones,  and  pieces  of  broken 
swords.  At  the  farm  of  Peashills,  about  a  mile  north-east  of  the 
above-named  field,  were  found  some  years  ago  two  pieces  of  gold, 
of  the  value  of  L.  14  Sterling.  One  piece  was  in  the  form  of 
a  ball,  and  appeared  to  have  been  the  knob  usually  attached  to  the 
hilt  of  a  sword ;  the  other,  which  is  in  the  possession  of  Mrs  Mori- 
son of  Naughton,  has  evidently  been  an  ornament  of  some  kind 

'  Wood's  Peerage. 

t  Sibbald's  Fife,  1803.  •  $  Writs  of  the  family  of  Naughton. 

3  The  author  of  "  The  first  Blast  of  the  Trumpet,"  already  referred  to. 


588 


FIFESHIRE. 


or  other ;  but  whether  it  adorned  the  helmet,  the  breast-plate,  or 
the  sword  handle,  antiquaries  have  not  yet  fully  agreed. 

Modern  Buildings. — There  is  little  to  be  noticed  in  this  re- 
spect. Birkhiil,  the  seat  of  Henry  S.  Wedderburn  of  Wed- 
derburn  and  Birkhiil,  is  a  very  elegant  and  commodious  mansion, 
beautifully  situated  amongst  extensive  plantations,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Tay.  Naughton  House  was  erected  in  the  end  of  the  last 
century,  and  has  since  received  many  alterations  and  improve- 
ments. The  church  and  manse  were  built, — the  first  in  1811  and 
the  other  in  1816;  the  former  is  rather  small  for  the  increasing 
wants  of  the  parish ;  the  latter,  with  an  excellent  set  of  offices,  is 
suitable  and  commodious.  They  are  all  built  of  stone  found  in 
the  parish. 

HI. — Population. 
The  population  of  the  parish  has  been  steadily  on  the  increase 
for  many  years  past,  owing  to  feuing,  and  to  its  vicinity  to  Dun- 
dee, where  employment  can  easily  be  procured  in  the  manufac- 
turing of  linen,  &c. 

The  population  in  1755  amounted  to  565 
1491  -  703 

1821  ,  965 

1831  -  1055 

1837  -  11)70 

The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  is  27,  of  mar- 
riages 6.  There  is  no  register  of  deaths  kept.  The  average  num- 
ber of  persons,  their  ages,  employments,  and  families  is  as  under  : 

In  1831  the  number  under  15  years  of  age  was,  -  -  430 

betwixt  15  and  30  -          -  -  236 

30  and  50  -  -  221 

50  and  70  -  -  138 

above  70  .  -  30 

Number  cf  families  at  present,  -          -  -  215 

bouses,             -  -       -  213 

Average  number  of  children,  -              .  -  3 

Number  of  communicants,  -           -  -  458 

male  heads  of  families,  -  -  148 

Dissenters,  about  -              -  -  ^0 

inhabitants  in  villages,  -           -  -  550 

The  number  of  endividuals  employed  in  weaving  is  about  150. 
The  rest  are  chiefly  engaged  in  agriculture.  There  are  in  the 
parish  5  grocers,  3  wrights,  4  shoemakers,  3  blacksmiths,  3  tailors, 
1  medical  practitioner,  and  5  publicans. 

Character  of  the  People. — The  inhabitants  are  justly  entitled  to 
be  regarded  as  honest,  industrious,  sober,  and  extremely  exem- 
plary in  their  attendance  upon  the  ordinances  of  religion.  They 
are  strongly  attached  to  the  Established  Church,  and  less  than  or- 
dinarily given  to  the  following  of  divisive  courses. 


BALMERINO. 


589 


During  the  last  three  years,  there  have  been  three  illegitimate 
births  in  the  parish  ;  and  a  long  time  has  elapsed  since  any  suffer- 
ed, either  for  theft  or  disturbance  of  the  public  peace. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture  and  Rural  Economy. 

In  cultivation  there  are  2694  imperial  acres. 
In  wood  467 
Unarable,  roads,  &c.  185 

Total,  3346 

Rent  of  Land. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  amounts  to 
L.  4085,  10s.  Scots.    The  real  rent  is  about  L.  4800  Sterling.  ' 
The  average  rent  of  arable  land  is  about  L.  1,  16s.  per  imperial  acre. 

Rate  of  wages. — A  ploughman's  wages  averages  from  L.  10  to 
L.  12,  with  Q\  bolls  of  oatmeal  per  annum  and  a  pint  Scots  of 
sweet  milk  per  day  ;  female  house-servants  have  from  L.  5  to 
L.  6  per  annum  ;  labourers  Is.  6d.  ;  and  female-field  labourers 
8d.  per  day  ;  masons  and  wrights  have  from  16s.  to  18s.  a 
week  ;  a  good  weaver  labouring  twelve  hours  per  day  will  average 
about  2s. 

Produce. — The  amount  of  produce  may  be  estimated  as  follows  : 

Value  of  all  kinds  of  grain,    L.  8500 
potatoes,  -  ]  200 

cattle,  .  1440 

L.  11,140 

The  produce  of  the  salmon-fishings,  which  used  to  be  immense,  has 
not  for  some  years  past  paid  rent  and  wages,  exclusive  of  material. 

Cattle  are  sold  off  fat,  rising  three  years  old,  and  bring  from  L.  10 
to  L.  15  a-head.  Turnips  and  hay  are  consumed  by  the  stock, 
except  in  very  rare  instances.  About  105  cattle  are  yearly  fiitten- 
ed  for  the  butcher,  and  as  many  calves  reared.  There  are  in  the 
parish'-14  thrashing-machines,  three  of  which  are  driven  by  water 
power,  47  ploughs,  and  98  horses  for  agricultural  purposes. 

Husbandry. — The  method  of  cropping  varies  according  to  the 
nature  of  the  soil.  On  the  strongest  soils,  a  rotation  of  six  years 
is  adopted,  viz.  fallow  a  potatoes,  wheat,  green-crop,  (turnip  or 
pease),  barley,  grass,  and  oats.  On  the  lighter  soils,  the  rotation 
is,  potatoes,  wheat,  barley,  grass  (to  lie  two  years)  and  oats  :  and 
on  the  lightest,  green  crop  (turnip  eaten  off  with  sheep),  barley, 
grass  (to  lie  two  or  three  years),  and  oats.  The  farmers  gene- 
rally take  grass  parks  for  their  young  stock,  to  supply  the  want  of 
pasture  at  home. 

Fishings. — The  salmon-fishery,  once  so  productive  here,  is 


590 


FIFESIllRE. 


now  very  inconsiderable,  being  confined  exclusively  to  tbe  toot-net 
method  of  capturing  the  fish.  The  net  employed  is  from  50  to 
80  yards  long,  and  differs  little  from  the  common  seine  or  sweep 
net.  Instead  of  being  constantly  kept  m  motion,  as  the  latter  is, 
it  is  attached  to  a  boat  at  anchor,  and  only  hauled  when  the  toots- 
man,  who  watches  in  the  boat,  observes  a  fish  strike  the  net.  It 
is  totally  unsuited  to  estuary  fishing. 

The  number  of  boats  connected  with  the  fisheries  in  this  pa- 
rish amount  to  7,  and  they  keep  employed  14  men  during  the  open 
season.  The  fisheries  belong  to  Mr  Wedderburn  of  Birkhill, 
Mrs  B.  Morison  of  Naughton,  and  Mr  Stuart  of  Balmerino,  and 
are  rented  at  about  L.  50  per  annum. 

The  spirhng  fishery  was  once  productive  here  also ;  but  for  se- 
veral years  back,  it  has  not  been  pursued,  as  the  spirlings  seem  to 
have  abandoned  this  part,  (probably  on  account  of  the  increase  of  the 
sand-banks)  and  are  only  to  be  found  at  some  of  the  rapids  farther  up. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  district  deeply  lament  the  suppression 
of  the  stake- net  mode  of  fishing,  which  was  abolished  by  a  deci- 
sion of  the  Court  of  Session  in  1812,  upon  a  complaint  of  the  up- 
per heritors,  and  affirmed  by  the  House  of  Lords  upon  appeal  in 
1816.  This  decision  was  founded  upon  certain  old  acts  of  the 
Scottish  Parliament,  which  were  directed  against  a  particular  kind 
of  river  fishing,  termed  weir,  yair,  or  cruive.  There  is  an  infinite 
variety  of  such  engines  in  use ;  but  there  is  one  peculiarity  com- 
mon to  them  all,  viz.  that  they  prevent  the  ascent  of  the  fish  ex- 
cept by  a  particular  channel,  in  which  a  trap  for  detaining  them 
is  inserted.  This  mode  of  fishing,  practised  at  a  very  early  pe- 
riod, is  noticed  by  the  most  ancient  writers,  and  is  the  subject  of 
legislation  in  our  earliest  statutes.  It  is  obvious  that  fixed  en- 
gines of  this  description,  when  employed  without  restraint,  would 
have  the  effect  of  shutting  up  the  river,  preventing  the  ascent  of 
the  fish,  and  destroying  the  fry.  In  consequence,  the  use  of  such 
engines  in  rivers  was  forbidden,  except  where  they  had  existed  for 
a  long  course  of  time.  Even  in  those  cases,  the  engines  were  pla- 
ced under  certain  restraints,  which  seem  to  have  been  considered 
sufficient  for  protecting  the  spawners,  and  young  fish.  This  mode 
of  fishing,  efficient  in  rivers,  cannot,  it  is  obvious  from  its  nature, 
be  applied  with  similar  success  in  estuaries  and  the  open  sea.  Ac- 
cordingly, there  has  been  little  fishing,  until  of  late  years,  except  in 
the  rivers, — so  little,  indeed,  that  the  salmon  has  been  vulgarly  re- 


4 


BALMBRINO. 


591 


garded  as  a  river-fish.  The  seals  and  giampuses  have  remained 
in  undisturbed  possession  of  the  salt  water  fishing. 

In  the  year  1797,  the  stake-net  was  introduced  in  the  Solway 
Frith  (where  it  is  at  present  legal !)  and  in  the  Frith  of  Tay.  This 
engine  was  constructed  by  driving  strong  stakes  in  a  row,  from 
the  shore  towards  low  water  mark,  and  nearly  at  right  angles  to 
the  tide.  On  these  stakes,  were  stretched  nets  with  open  meshes, 
three  inches  from  knot  to  knot,  or  twelve  inches  round.  Thus  a 
wall  of  open  netting  was  constructed,  sufficient  to  intercept  the 
large  fish,  but  through  v?hich  the  water,  and  all  small  fishes,  could 
pass  freely.  In  this  wall  of  netting,  were  placed  courts  or  labyrinths. 
The  salmon,  influenced  in  their  movements  by  the  tide,  met  this 
netted  wall,  and,  seeking  along  for  an  opening  through  which  to 
pass,  entered  these  courts,  where  they  were  detained  and  taken  out 
at  low  water.  By  means  of  these  nets,  great  quantities  of  salmon, 
of  the  first  quality,  were  caught,  and  exported  in  boxes  packed 
with  ice  to  the  London  market.  The  proprietors  of  the  river 
fisheries  now  got  alarmed  for  their  monopoly,  and,  taking  advantage 
of  the  antiquated  statutes  referred  to  above,  some  of  them  passed 
by  the  Scottish  legislature  more  than  four  hundred  years  ago,  and 
long  before  it  was  ever  dreamt  of  that  salmon-fishing  could  be 
successfully  carried  on  in  the  friths  or  seas,  applied  for  an  interdict, 
and  ultimately  succeeded  in  prohibiting  the  use  of  such  fixed  ma- 
chinery :  the  courts  having  held,  that,  as  these  statutes  had  never 
been  repealed,  any  infringement  of  their  provisions  must  be  held 
illegal.  The  effect  of  this  decision  has  been  greatly  to  deteriorate 
the  estuary  fishery  ;  while  the  proprietors  of  the  river  fishings  en- 
joy a  monopoly  price  in  the  market. 

In  framing  these  regulations,  the  object  of  the  Scottish  Legis- 
lature must  have  been  to  protect  the  public  interests  and  prevent 
injury  to  the  fishery  generally  ;  and  this  is  the  only  ground  upon 
which  they  can  yet  be  defended.  Experience,  however,  has  prov- 
ed that  this  defence  of  them  cannot  be  maintained.  At  the  early 
period  when  these  regulations  were  framed,  little  was  known  re- 
garding the  salmon  ;  but  from  what  is  now  known  of  its  habits  and 
history,  it  is  perfectly  well  ascertained,  that  while  in  the  friths  and 
in  the  sea,  (where  alone  stake-nets  can  be  used,)  none  but  fish  in 
the  best  condition  are  caught;  in  the  rivers,  salmon  of  inferior 
quahty,  and  often  in  a  foul  and  unwholesome  state,  are  taken 
that  it  is  in  the  rivers,  and  in  these  alone,  that  any  injury  can,  be 
done  to  the  spawn,  or  salmon  fry,  by  the  heavy  ground  ropes  which 


592 


FIFESHIRE. 


are  drawn  across  the  spawn-beds; — that  the  stake-nets  do  not 
interrupt  or  interfere  with  the  river  fishings,  as  it  has  been  proved 
that  the  quantity  caught  in  the  river,  since  the  stake-nets  were 
abolished,  does  not  exceed  the  quantity  caught  when  these  were 
in  use ; — that,  in  short,  the  effect  of  the  prohibition  has  been  to 
secure  a  monopoly  price  to  the  river-fishers,  while  the  myriads  of 
salmon  which  escape  from  the  rivers  and  find  their  way  to  the  sea, 
and  which  might  become  a  valuable  article  of  commerce,  and  be 
made  available  as  a  rich  and  nutritious  article  of  food  to  the  pub- 
lic, at  a  moderate  price,  are  totally  lost,'  or  only  abandoned  as  a 
prey  to  the  monsters  of  the  deep. 

The  extent  of'  the  loss  in  the  Tay  generally,  in  consequence 
of  the  suppression  of  these  nets,  has  been  estimated  at  from 
200  to  300  tons,  or  from  20,000  to  30,000  head  of  salmon 
annually.  The  whole  estuary  does  not  now  produce  above 
3000  fish.  (Evidence  before  a  Committee  of  the  House  of 
Commons,  1827.)  In  this  parish  alone  the  loss  may  be  estimated 
in  rent  at  L.  1000  to  L.  1200  annually  to  the  different  proprietors  ; 
and  about  L.  1000  in  the  shape  of  wages.  Other  evils  also  have 
resulted.  The  aged  females  and  others  have  been  deprived  of 
an  excellent  and  healthy  employment  in  the  working  of  nets,  while 
a  hardy  and  expert  race  of  seamen  were  regularly  trained  through 
means  of  their  connection  with  the  fishery.  Let  us  hope  that  an 
enlightened  and  paternal  legislature,  under  whose  revision  the 
fishery  laws  are  again  to  be  brought,  will  speedily  remove  the 
present  oppressive  restrictions  upon  this  lucrative  branch  of  in- 
dustry, by  which  not  individual  proprietors  alone,  but  the  com- 
munity at  large,  must  be  so  extensively  benefited,  and  in  the  de- 
cision of  which  question  they  have  so  deep  an  interest. 

Manufactures. — Since  the  destruction  of  the  stake-net  fishery, 
many  of  the  individuals  employed  in  that  amphibious  kind  of  oc- 
cupation have  betaken  themselves  entirely  to  the  trade  of  weavers. 
None  of  them,  however,  have  as  yet  risen  to  the  dignity  and  profes- 
sional importance  of  manufacturers,  but  derive  their  webs,  at  se- 
cond hand,  from  those  of  this  class  in  Dundee.  About  150  men 
and  women  are  engaged  at  the  loom  with  materials  supplied  from 
this  quarter.  The  linens  which  they  weave  are  called  Dowlas 
and  Osnaburg,  and,  as  has  been  elsewhere  stated,  an  expert  weav- 
er will  earn  about  2s.  per  day.  Some  of  the  young  men  thus  em- 
ployed in  the  winter  months,  are  engaged  in  the  Greenland  whale- 


BALMERINO. 


593 


fishery  during  the  season  of  that  now  hazardous  and  precarious 
employment. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Markets^  Means  of  Communication. — The  nearest  market-town 
is  Cupar,  distant  about  seven  miles.  The  nearest  post-office  is 
Newport,  and  is  distant  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  manse. 
There  are  no  turnpike  roads  in  the  parish  ;  but  the  statute  labour 
roads  are  in  good  condition,  and  the  means  of  communication  with 
other  places  are  various,  and  of  easy  access.  There  is  a  passage- 
boat  which  sails  from  Balmerino  pier  to  Dundee  once  a  week,  or 
oftener  if  required.  Considering  the  population  of  the  parish, 
this  department  of  our  statistics  is  rather  meagre  in  its  details. 
There  is  neither  baker,  brewer,  nor  butcher  within  its  bounds. 
The  navigation  or  shipping  interest  is  upon  an  equally  limited 
scale.  Only  the  passage-boat,  which  is  a  joint-stock  concern,  be- 
longs to  the  parish.  Many  vessels  with  coals,  however,  discharge 
their  cargoes  during  the  season.  About  fifty  years  ago,  accord- 
ing to  the  last  Statistical  Account,  this  harbour  was  the  chief 
place  on  the  south  side  of  Tay  for  shipping  grain  ;  now  not  a  single 
boll  is  shipped  here,  if  we  except  such  parcels  of  wheat  as  the  far- 
mers in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  send  by  the  passage-boat 
to  the  Dundee  bakers.  The  Messrs  Rintoul,  however,  carry  on 
a  considerable  trade  in  potatoes,  which  are  sent  up  to  the  London 
market.  In  some  seasons,  upwards  of  6500  bolls  have  been  ship- 
ped from  this  port  by  these  gentlemen,  besides  what  has  been  ex- 
ported by  them  from  other  places- 

Ecclesiastieal  State.— The  church  is  situated  about  the  centre 
of  the  parish,  and  is  seated  for  about  400.  It  was  finished  in 
1811.  It  is  a  plain  building  without  any  ornament,  but  conside- 
rably deficient  in  point  of  accommodation  for  the  parishioners. 
The  heritors,  however,  have  it  in  contemplation  to  enlarge  its  dimen- 
sions. The  manse  was  built  in  1816,  and  is  one  of  the  most  commo- 
dious in  the  presbytery.  The  glebe  consists  of  about  eight  acres,  and 
the  grass  glebe  as  much,  including  the  site  of  the  manse,  &c.  and 
both  are  of  inferior  quality.  The  stipend  is  16  chalders,  half 
meal,  half  barley,  and  7  bolls  of  wheat,  with  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  com- 
munion elements.  The  collections,  exclusive  of  extra,  average 
about  L.  18  per  annum. 

The  number  of  families  attending  the  Established  Church  is 
195  ;  of  Dissenting  or  Seceding  families,  20. 

List  of  Ministers  of  Balmerino  from  the  Reformation.— Mv  Ar- 


FIFE.  p  p 


594 


FIFESHIRE. 


chibakl  Keith,  admitted  1560;  Mr  Patrick  Auchinleck  was  mi-  ^ 
nister  in  1571  ;  Mr  Thomas  Douglas,  admitted  1580  ;  Mr  Wal-  ^ 
ter  Greig,  admitted  assistant  and  successor  to  Mr  Douglas,  died 
1672;  Mr  Andrew  Bruce,  admitted  1673;  Mr  James  Gairns 
or  Gairdner,  admitted  1676,  translated  to  Carnbee  1678;  Mr 
George  Hay,  admitted  1678;  Mr  John  Auchterlony,  admit- 
ted  ,  outed  1689;  Mr  Andrew  Bowie,  admitted  1690,  trans- 
lated to  Ceres  1692 ;  vacant  from  1692  to  1696 ;  Mr  James 
Hay,  admitted  1696 ;  Mr  Kerr,  admitted  assistant  and  suc- 
cessor to  Mr  Hay  1st  May  1722,  died  December  1741;  Mr 
Thomas  Stark,  admitted  27th  May  1742,  died  5th  March  1772 ; 
Mr  John  Stark,  admitted  22d  April  1773,  demitted  30th  October 
1781  ;  Mr  Andrew  Thomson,  ordained  September  5th  1782, 
died  6th  March  1836;  Mr  John  Thomson,  appointed  assistant 
and  successor  to  his  father  in  1824. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  poor  of  the  parish  are  sup- 
ported by  the  collections  made  at  the  church,  and  by  the  libera- 
lity of  the  heritors  and  inhabitants.  Those  upon  the  roll  get  from 
3s.  to  6s.  a  month;  others  get  occasional  relief  at  the  new  year 
and  sacrament,  in  money,  coals,  or  meal,  according  to  circumstan- 
ces ;  and  the  resident  proprietors  of  Naughton  and  Birkhill  distri- 
bute, during  winter,  coals  and  meal  to  the  most  necessitous.  The 
proprietor  of  Balmerino  has  given,  for  some  years  back,  L.  10  to 
the  poor  on  his  own  estate.  The  heritors  also  assess  themselves 
to  the  amount  of  L.  20  per  annum,  for  the  maintenance  of  two 
idiots.  The  number  of  persons receivingparochial  aid  is  12  or  there- 
by. The  average  annual  amount  of  church  collections  for  the 
poor  is  L.  18. 

Educatio7i.— There  are  two  schools  in  the  parish— the  paro-  ^ 
chial  school,  and  one  taught  by  a  female.    There  are  in  winter  ■ 
generally  from  120  to  130  scholars  attending  the  former,  and  about  ■ 
40  at  the  latter.   The  salary  of  the  parish  school  is  the  maximum,  ■ 
and  the  fees  amount  to  from  L.  25  to  L.  30  per  annum.  The  branches  ■ 
taught  in  it  are,  English  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  mathema-^ 
tics,  geography,  &c. :— Greek  and  Latin  are  not  much  required. 
The  teacher  is  eminently  qualified  for  his  situation,  being  pos- 
sessed not  only  of  all  the  requisite  information  in  no  ordinary  de- 
gree, but  pecuharly  fitted  for  communicating  it  to  his  pupils.  A 
decided  improvement  has  taken  place,  as  well  in  the  amount  as  in 
the  standard  of  education,  since  his  appointment  to  this  parish  : 


FLISK. 


595 


and  it  is  pleasant  to  find  that  his  labours  are  duly  appreciated  by 
the  inhabitants  at  large. 

Fuel. — This  article  of  domestic  economy  consists  entirely  of 
coal,  and  is  chiefly  imported  from  Newcastle  and  the  Frith  of 
Forth.  The  farmers  who  have  the  command  of  carriages  supply 
themselves  occasionally  and  their  servants  from  the  coal-pits  in 
the  southern  parts  of  the  country ;  from  the  nearest  of  which  the 
parish  is  distant  about  twelve  miles.  English  coal  is  obtained  at 
the  shore,  at  the  rate  of  from  4s.  6d.  to  5s.  9d.  per  boll  of  six  cwt. 
according  to  quality ;  and  the  Scotch  at  about  6s.  per  boll  of  8 
cwt.  The  price  of  the  best  coal  at  the  nearest  pit,  which  is  Drum- 
carro,  is  Is.  lOd.  per  load  of  4  cwt. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
The  improvements  in  husbandry  and  agriculture  are  abundantly 
manifest  in  the  district,  since'the  date  of  last  Account.  Many  wastes 
have  been  reclaimed,  marshes  have  been  drained,  and  thriving 
plantations  are  everywhere  rising  up  for  shelter  and  protection. 
The  systems  of  wedge  draining  and  subsoil  ploughing  are  being 
adopted.  Turnips  are  extensively  sown ;  and  the  practice  of 
eating  them  off  with  sheep,  in  suitable  situations,  is  general. 
The  roads  through  the  parish  have  also  been  much  improved,  and 
are,  in  general,  kept  in  excellent  repair.  Many  of  the  farm-stead- 
ings are  newly  erected,  and  some  of  them  may  vie  with  any  in  the 
country,  either  in  extent  of  accommodation,  or  in  neatness  and  ele- 
gance of  structure. 

22t£  February  1838. 


PARISH  OF  FLISK. 

PRESBYTERV  of  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  MARSHALL,  MINISTER  * 


Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name.—YusK  appears  to  have  been  the  ancient,  as  well  as  mo- 
dern name  of  the  parish.    It  is  possibly  connected  with  the  word 


596 


FIFESHIR15. 


Fleasg,  signifying  in  the  Irish  language  wet  or  7noist, — a  descrip- 
tion applicable  to  the  former  state  of  the  soil. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  parish,  situated  on  the  southern 
bank  of  the  Tay,  some  miles  below  Newburgh,  stretches  along 
the  margin  of  the  river,  which  is  here  nearly  a  straight  line, 
miles ;  but  its  average  length  is  not  more  than  4  miles.  Its  breadth 
varies  considerably.  For  fully  more  than  a  mile,  commencing  at  the 
eastern  extremity,  it  does  not  exceed  half  a  mile  in  breadth  ;  then 
suddenly  widening,  it  is  for  2  miles  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
broad  ;  and- at  the  eastern  extremity,  it  extends  to  If  mile  from  the 
river, — presenting  a  surface  of  3^  or  4  square  miles.   Its  general  fi- 
gure may  be  easily  conceived  from  the  preceding  account  of  its 
extent,  the  straight  margin  of  the  river  being  considered  as  the 
line  on  which  the  successive  oblongs  of  which  it  may  be  conceived 
to  consist,  are  laid  off.    It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Tay  ;  on 
the  east  by  Balmerino ;  on  the  south  by  Creich,  a  detached  part 
of  Abdie  and  Dunbog;  and  on  the  west  by  Dunbog. 

Topographical  Appearances. — Along  the  river,  the  ground  for 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth  is  nearly  level,  or  has  but  a 
gentle  ascent ;  then  it  rises  rapidly,  and  to  a  considerable  height, 
forming  part  of  that  hilly  range  which  runs  along  the  south  side  of 
the  Tay,  including  within  the  limits  of  the  parish,  Lyndemus  (about 
750  feet  in  height,  and  properly  constituting  the  first  rise  on  Nor- 
man's Law,)  Logie  Law,  and  Glenduckie  Hill.  To  the  south  of 
'Glenduckie  Hill,  it  sinks  again  into  a  valley;  and  it  is  there,  it 
stretches  to  the  distance  of  If  mile  from  the  river. 

At  each  extremity  of  the  parish,  the  bank  of  the  Tay  is  mark- 
ed by  a  rapid  slope  of  about  100  feet,  and  chiefly  covered  with  na- 
tural grass.  The  slope  of  the  central  portion  is  more  gradual, 
and  on  it  cultivation  is  carried  to  the  edge  of  the  river. 

Meteorology. — The  winds,  probably  guided  by  the  hills,  fre- 
quently take  the  direction  of  the  river,  and  sometimes  drive  along 
with  furious  violence.  Those  from  the  north  and  east  are  often 
piercing ;  but  the  air  is  pure  and  salubrious,  and  a  good  share  of 
health  seems  enjoyed  by  the  inhabitants.  Formerly,  when  the 
lower  grounds  were  marshy,  ague  prevailed  in  the  spring ;  but  now 
that  the  soil  is  comparatively  dry,  the  disease  has  disappeared. 

Hydrography. — The  Tay,  as  already  noticed,  flows  so  as  to  form 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  parish.  At  the  western  extremity 
of  the  parish,  and  nearly  three  miles  below  Newburgh,  this  noble 
river,  at  high-water,  according  to  R.  and  A.  Stevenson's  survey  in 


FLISK. 


597 


1833,  is  1^  mile  in  breadth.  At  Flisk-point,  three  miles  far- 
ther  down,  and  just  below  the  church,  it  is  2  miles  broad  ;  and  at 
the  eastern  extremity,  2^.  At  low-water,  extensive  sand-banks 
are  left  dry  on  the  Perthshire  side  ;  and  the  fresh-water  current, 
which  here  keeps  by  this  side  of  the  estuary,  then  confines  itself 
to  a  channel  of  about  one-third  of  a  mile.  The  beach  is  clayey, 
and  it  is  fenced  with  a  bed  of  shingle  left  by  the  tide.  Several 
dikes  have  been  projected  into  the  river,  that  the  intermediate 
spaces  might  silt  up ;  but  hitherto  without  effect. 

There  are  many  excellent  springs  in  the  parish.  In  several,  in 
different  localities,  Fahrenheit's  thermometer  stood  at  43°  on  the 
J  5th  of  May  ;  and  at  46°,  47°  on  the  30th  of  June  1837. 

Geologxj  and  Mineralogy.— -The  upper  series  of  rocks  consists 
chiefly  of  secondary  trap.  It  is  cut  by  a  vein  of  clinkstone  por- 
phyry. Old  red  sandstone  appears  by  the  river,  under  Flisk  Wood. 
The  greenstone  dike,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Flisk-dike,  passes 
through  Glenduckie  Hill,  in  its  course  from  Newburgh  to  Norman's 
Law.  Agates  and  also  pieces  of  bloodstone  are  found  in  consider- 
able numbers.  Diluvium  covers  the  rocky  substratum  between 
the  river  and  the  hilly  range. 

A  submarine  forest  of  ten  miles  in  length,  and  similar  to  those 
of  Skaill  in  Orkney,  of  Lincolnshire,  and  of  Mount's  Bay  in  Corn- 
wall, lies  along  the  margin  of  the  Tay,  stretching  from  Flisk-point 
under  the  manse,  about  three  miles  upwards  and  seven  down 
the  river.  It  is  covered  at  full  tide  with  four  or  five  feet  of  water. 
It  consists  of  a  bed  of  peat-moss,  and  has  no  alluvial  stratum  su- 
perinduced. Many  stumps  of  trees  with  their  roots  attached,  and 
manifestly  in  the  place  and  position  in  which  they  originally  grew, 
have  been  observed.  It  rests  on  a  bed  of  gray  coloured  clay,  whose 
surface,  with  slight  variations,  is  horizontal,  and  on  a  level  with 
lovp  water-mark. 

It  seems  pretty  certain  that  this  moss  must  be  at  least  ten  feet 
below  Its  original  level.  In  explanation  of  the  phenomenon  Dr 
Fleming,  in  his  paper  on  the  subject  in  the  Transactions  of  the 
Royal  Society  of  Edinburgh  for  1822,  supposes  the  former  exist- 
ence of  a  lake  in  this  locality— that  it  gradually  filled  up,  and  be- 
came covered  with  vegetable  matter,  till  it  sufficed  for  the  growth 
of  trees— that  the  seaward  barrier  was  then  removed— and  that, 
the  moisture  now  freely  escaping,  subsidence  in  consequence  took 
place,  and  reduced  it  to  its  present  level. 

5oz75.— The  soil  is,  in  general,  a  clayey  loam.    On  the  lower 


598 


FIFESHIBE. 


grounds  by  the  river,  and  especially  on  the  three  middle  farms, 
the  intermixture  of  clay  is  considerable,  forming  a  fertile,  though 
hard  soil,  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  depth.  In  some  places, 
the  loam  disappears,  and  gravel  and  clay  beds  present  themselves, 
chiefly  close  by  the  margin  of  the  river.  Towards  the  west,  the 
soil  is  sharp  and  more  friable.  The  subsoil  is  chiefly  clay  and 
till,  and  in  some  places  sand.  On  the  higher  grounds,  the  loam 
is  purer,  varies  from  one  to  three  feet  in  depth,  and  lies  on  rock, 
clay,  and  till,  and  here  and  there  on  patches  of  moor-band.  On 
the  south  of  Glenduckie  Hill,  it  is  good  black,  easy  loam,  reco- 
vered from  wet  and  marshy  ground ;  and  the  soil  removed  in  mak- 
ing drains  and  water-courses  has  been  conveyed  higher  up  the 
hill,  and  forms  about  twenty  acres  of  arable  land,  where  the  rock 
was  chiefly  visible  before. 

The  more  level  portions  of  the  parish,  whether  on  the  lower  or 
more  elevated  ground,  were  formerly  very  wet ;  and  the  hollows 
were  marshes  at  no  very  distant  date.  Innumerable  drains  and 
large  ditches  have  now,  however,  rendered  the  soil  comparatively 
dry. 

Boulders  were  once  thickly  spread,  but  are  now  removed.  Some 
idea  of  their  number,  and  of  the  labour  of  clearing  the  ground, 
may  be  formed  from  the  fact,  that  three  men  and  two  pair  of 
horses  were  employed  on  one  "  balk,"  on  Flisk-mill  farm,  for  a 
fortnight,  and  that  500  cart-loads  of  stones  were  drawn  from  two 
and  a-half  acres.  Many  of  the  boulders  contain  from  four  to  six, 
eight,  or  twelve  feet  of  solid  matter ;  and  others,  which  required 
to  be  broken  by  gunpowder  before  they  could  be  removed,  must 
have  been  much  larger.  One  lying  by  the  river  near  Flisk-point, 
and  said  by  marvel-loving  tradition  to  have  been  hurled  by  a  giant 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tay,  and  aimed  at  the  church, 
contains  about  150  feet;  and  another,  higher  up  the  river,  and 
now  partly  broken  and  partly  sunk  into  the  soil,  must  have  been, 
at  least,  of  equal  dimensions.  They  are  generally  of  the  primitive 
rocks,  granite,  gneiss,  mica-slate,  and  quartz,  though  some  are 
conglomerate,  and  others  compact  felspar. 

Zoology. — The  common  salmon  and  the  spirling,  or  Salmo  eper^ 
lanus,  frequent  the  river.  The  seal  is  an  unwelcome  visitor.  The 
porpoise  may  be  seen  playing  its  gambols,  when  the  tide  is  up ;  and 
the  grampus,  also,  sometimes  makes  its  appearance.  Flocks  of 
wild  geese  frequent  the  river  and  the  hill-sides,  for  some  months 
after  harvest. 


FLISK. 


599 


Botany.  —  The  common  culinary  vegetables  are,  colewort,  cab- 
bage, onions,  leeks,  carrots,  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  and  turnips- 
The  grains  grown  are  wheat,  barley,  and  oats.  Peas  and  beans 
are  also  sown  in  the  field. 

Plantations. — The  plantations  are  neither  numerous  nor  exten- 
sive. The  oldest  is  Fhsk  Wood,  which  is  mentioned  in  the  earliest 
accounts,  and  fills  up  the  north-eastern  corner  of  the  parish,  be- 
tween the  Tay  and  Corbie-burn,  extending  at  present  over  ninety- 
one  acres.  The  largest  is  that  on  and  around  the  summit  of  Glen- 
duckie-Hill,  covering  113  acres.  The  plantations  altogether 
amount  to  264  acres ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  eighty  acres  of 
oak  in  Flisk  Wood,  they  consist  chiefly  of  larch  and  Scotch  fir,  and 
are  from  twenty  to  forty  years  old. 

II. — Civil  History. 
This  parish  cannot  boast  of  any  historical  events  of  importance, 
or  of  any  occurrences  worthy  of  note. 

Eminent  Character. — The  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  the 
parish,  became  the  property  of  the  Noble  house  of  Rothes,  in  the 
reign  of  Robert  the  Bruce,  by  the  marriage  of  Sir  Andrew  de 
Lesley  with  Mary,  one  of  the  three  daughters  and  co-heiresses  of 
Sir  Alexander  Abernethy  of  Abernethy  ;  and  the  Castle  of  Ballin- 
breich  was,  for  several  centuries,  their  principal  residence. 

In  1320,  Sir  Andrew  signed  the  letter  to  the  Pope,  asserting 
the  independency  of  Scotland.  His  descendant,  Norman  Lesley, 
son  of  George  Earl  of  Rothes,  was  the  principal  actor  in  the  mur- 
der of  Cardinal  Beaton,  on  the  29th  May  1546,  The  following 
year,  he  surrendered  the  Castle  of  St  Andrews  to  the  French,  and 
went  into  the  service  of  their  king.  He  gained  great  reputation 
in  an  engagement  between  that  monarch  and  the  Emperor,  near 
Cambray,  in  1554.  He  enjoyed  his  honour  but  a  short  time,  for, 
being  wounded,  he  died  fifteen  days  afterwards. 

Andrew,  fourth  Earl  of  Rothes,  was  buried  within  the  old  church. 
The  grave  is  about  the  centre  of  the  present  burying-ground.  John, 
sixth  Earl  of  Rothes,  was  promoted  in  1667  to  the  office  of- High 
Chancellor ;  and  was  created  Duke  of  Rothes,  Marquis  of  Bal- 
lenbreich,  &c.  in  1680.  He  died  the  following  year;  and  his 
body  was  conveyed,  first  from  St  Giles's  Edinburgh  (whither  it 
had  been  privately  carried)  to  Holyrood  House,  and  afterwards 
to  Leslie  in  Fife,  (where  his  Grace  had  built  a  mansion,)  with 
the  greatest  conceivable  funereal  pomp. 

Sir  James  Balfour,  Rector  of  this  parish  in  1561,  was  appointed 


GOO 


FIFESHUIE, 


Lord  President  of  the  Court  of  Session,  the  Court  then  consist- 
ing of  churchmen  as  well  as  laymen  :  he  is  unhappily  stigmatized 
by  Robertson  as  the  most  corrupt  man  of  his  age. 

The  Rev.  John  Wemyss,  who  was  admitted  to  the  parish  in  1590, 
became  Principal  of  St  Leonard's  College,  St  Andrews,  in  1592. 

The  Rev.  John  Fleming,  D.  D.  author  of  the  "  Philosophy 
of  Zoology,"  and  of  the  "  History  of  British  Animals,"  and  now 
Professor  of  Natural  Philosophy  in  King's  College,  Aberdeen, 
held  this  incumbency  from  1811  to  1832. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners,  with  the  extent  of  their 
properties,  are  as  follows: — Lord  Dundas,  now  (1838)  created 
Earl  of  Orkney,  1808  acres;  Joseph  Murray,  Esq.  of  Ay  ton,  460 
acres;  John  Whyte  Melville,  Esq.  of  Mount  Melville,  218  acres. 
The  preceding  includes,  with  the  exception  of  20  or  30  acres,  the 
whole  property  of  the  parish. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  register  of  baptisms  and  marriages, 
combining  also  the  accounts  of  disbursements,  and  the  minutes  of 
session,  commence  6th  May  1697  ;  and  that  of  deaths  and  burials 
1st  March  1775.  They  seem  in  general  to  have  been  kept  with 
care  and  regularity  ;  the  only  marked  omi?sion  being  in  that  of  the 
session  minutes  from  1799  to  1822.  It  appears  from  these  re- 
cords, that  the  session,  till  at  least  nearly  the  middle  of  last  cen- 
tury, often  held  meetings  for  prayer :  and  administered  discipline 
by  private  or  public  rebukes  for  profaneness,  desecration  of  the 
Sabbath,  drunkenness,  quarrelling,  and  intemperate  or  opprobrious 
language,  as  well  as  for  violations  of  the  seventh  commandment. 

The  following  extracts  are  also  worthy  of  insertion,  as  shewing, 
inter  alia,  the  interest  taken  by  the  church,  both  in  the  welfare  of 
individuals  and  in  public  objects.  The  sums  are  given  in  old  Scotch 
money,  1701,  May  18.  This  day  read  from  the  pulpit,  the  Acts  of 
Assembly  and  Parliament  against  profaneness,  and  the  Act  of  As- 
sembly anent  family  worship  by  elders  and  deacons.  1702,  January  4, 
Given  for  Gullet  bridge,  there  having  been  a  general  collection 
appointed  for  that  effect,  L.  1. — 1702,  January  4,  (and  at  many 
other  dates,)  given  to  the  presbytery  bursar,  L.  4,  10s. — 1703, 
March  2,  given  for  repairing  St  Leonard's  College,  (St  Andrews,> 
L.  1,  16s. — 1704,  September  24,  given  for  the  redeeming  a  ma" 
from  slavery  in  Algeirs,  L.  2. — 1729,  July  4,  for  building  a  church 
and  to  be  a  fund  for  a  minister's  stipend  in  the  north  of  Scotland ; 
the  place  is  Enzie  (presbytery  of  Fordyce,)  L.  5.— 1729,  December 
GjforEnstar  ( Anstruther)  harbor,  L. 2.— 1730,  December  5,  Given 
to  David  Former's  daughter  to  buy  a  Bible,  L.  1,  4s. — 1750, 


FLISK. 


601 


November  18,  There  was  collected  this  day,  in  obedience  to  the 
Assembly's  order,  for  building  a  church  at  Breslaw,  in  the  province 
of  Silesia,  L.  10,  3s.  lOd. 

Ajitiqiiitivs. —  The  Castle  of  Ballinbreich  lies  in  ruins  near  the 
western  extremity  of  the  parish,  overhanging  the  river,  and  em- 
bosomed in  a  small  plantation  of  trees.  It  is  built  of  red  sand- 
stone, 150  feet  long,  and  70  broad,  and  without  date,  arms  or  in- 
scription. Formerly,  a  garden  lay  to  the  south  of  the  castle ;  an 
orchard  to  the  east  of  the  oak  avenue  ;  and  fish  ponds,  and  a  swan 
pond  in  the  plantations  to  the  west  of  it.  It  was  long  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Earls  of  Rothes.  But,  first  deserted,  then  sold  to  an- 
other lord,  it  has  been  suffered  to  go  into  decay.  Nothing  re- 
mains but  bare  or  fallen  walls,  the  ponds  have  been  dried  up, 
the  garden  destroyed,  and  many  of  the  trees  cut  down.  The 
plough  has  converted  the  duke  into  the  utile.  Besides  the  few 
acres  of  trees  surrounding  the  ruins,  two  chestnuts  which  formed 
part  of  the  straight  avenue  leading  to  the  castle,  are  still  allowed 
to  keep  their  station  near  the  farm-house  of  Ballinbreich. 

Close  by  the  castle  to  the  east,  and  within  the  remaining  plan- 
tation, is  Chapel-hill,  where  the  foundations  of  a  sacred  edifice  are 
still  to  be  traced. 

In  Flisk  Wood,  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  the  parish,  are  low 
ruins,  most  probably  those  of  a  place  of  worship,  and  consisting  of 
the  apparent  remains  of  the  edifice,  and  of  an  enclosing  wall.  In 
enumerating  the  parishes,  churches,  and  chapels  in  the  deanery  of 
Fife,  in  the  eleventh  year  of  King  William,  Sir  Robert  Sibbald 
mentions  «  Flisk  cum  capella."  Which  of  the  two  noticed  above 
formed  this  capella,  cannot  now  be  ascertained. 

Silver  coins  of  Edward  III.  were  turned  up  a  few  years  ago, 
on  the  farm  of  East  Flisk.  They  were  given  to  Dr  Fleming,  and 
consisted  of  sixpences,  shillings,  and  half-crown  pieces.  About 
the  same  time,  on  the  hill  side,  and  on  the  farms  of  East  Flisk  and 
Belhelvie,  several  rude  stone  coffins  were  discovered,  with  urns  in 
them  containing  burnt  bones.  The  urns  were  a  mixture  of  clay 
and  rotten  rock,  baked  in  the  sun ;  and  most  of  them  fell  to  pieces 
on  being  exposed  to  the  air.  Burnt  bones  were  also  discovered 
m  a  cairn  of  stones  on  the  top  of  Whirly  Kip,  (or  rather,  perhaps, 
Whit^law  cap,)  a  conical  rising  ground  on  Fliskmill  farm,  between 
Lyndemus  and  Pittachop. 

On  Fhskmill  Hill,  arc  a  few  stones  placed  as  the  arms  of  a  chair, 
and  called  St  Muggin's  Seat;  St  Muggin  being  probably  a  cor- 


602 


FIFESHIRE. 


ruption  of  St  Magridin.  Tradition  is  silent  regarding  the  occa- 
sions when  this  was  made  the  place  of  the  saint's  meditations ;  but 
it  was  well  chosen,  from  the  noble  and  extensive  view  it  commands 
of  streams,  and  hills,  and  vales,  for  eliciting  thought,  and  giving 
the  freshness  and  sublimity  of  nature  to  the  imaginings  of  the  soul 
within. 

Modern  Buildings. — Not  having  any  resident  proprietors,  we 
have  unfortunately  little  to  state  on  this  subject.  There  is  not  a 
single  mansion-house.  We  have  but  to  notice  the  parish  church. 
In  1790,  the  old  building  after  standing,  it  is  said,  for  500  years, 
was  pulled  down,  and  the  present  small  but  neat  edifice  erected 
near  the  site  of  the  former. 

'III. — Population. 

The  population  at  different  periods  has  been  as  follows : — 

In  1755,  according  to  Dr  Webster  318 
1792,  stated  in  last  Statistical  Account,  331 

1801,  according  to  the  census,  300 

1811,       do.  do.  318 

1821,       do.  do.  301 

1831,       do.  do.  286 

1836,  private  register,  -  245 

1837,  do.       do.  -  256 

From  this  table,  it  appears  that  the  'population  has  diminished. 
The  principal  cause  seems  to  have  been,  that  neither  proprietors 
nor  tenants,  some  time  ago,  were  sufficiently  careful  to  repair  or  re- 
build the  cottages.  Several  have,  in  consequence,  been  pulled 
down,  in  different  parts  of  the  parish.  The  evil  of  so  small  a  cot- 
tage population,  on  so  great  an  extent  of  cultivated  land,  is  now  se- 
verely felt.  And  the  wish  at  present  is,  on  the  part  of  the  farmers 
at  least,  to  have  the  number  of  cottages  increased. 

The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  is  -  -  10-| 

deaths,  -  -  -  -  ■  1?^ 

marriages,  -  -  -  -"t 

The  vast  disproportion  between  the  numbers  of  births  and  deaths 
must  be  owing  to  the  fact,  that  the  relative  number  of  farm-ser- 
vants (who,  of  course,  are  chosen  in  the  healthy  and  vigorous  period 
of  life)  is  great. 

The  average  number  of  persons  under  15  years  of  age,  -  -  100 

betwixt  15  and  30,  -  .  -  C5 

30  and  50,  ...  60 

50  and  70,  ...  30 

upwards  of  70,  -  -  .         -  3 

The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50  and  upwards,    .  3 
Number  of  unmarried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers,  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,  5 
women  upwards  of  45,  -  -  -  .11 

Number  of  families,     .     "  :  "  "  '^o 

Average  number  of  resident  children  ui  each  family,  .  -  -  /, 

Number  of  inhabited  houses,  .'JO 


FLISK. 


003 


Number  of  fatuous  2  ;  and  of  blind  1.  The  last  was  occasioned 
by  the  small-pox. 

The  language  spoken  is  the  English. 

The  migratory  habits  of  much  of  our  agricultural  population  are 
by  no  means  favourable  to  their  moral  and  religious  character,  and 
prevent  a  permanent  character  from  attaching  to  a  parish  like  this, 
where  so  many  belong  to  this  class.  With  this  qualification,  it 
may  be  said  that  the  people  are  respectable,  cleanly  in  their  ha- 
bits, and  enjoy  in  a  reasonable  degree  the  comforts  and  advantages 
of  society. 

The  ordinary  food  of  the  peasants  is  oatmeal  and  potatoes, 
broth  and  bacon,  the  cottars  keeping  one  or  two  pigs  in  the  year. 
Wheaten  bread  is  also  used. 

IV. — Industky. 
The  number  of  males  employed  in  agriculture  is  59,  including- 
7  farmers,  7  cottars,  and  45  farm-servants.  The  number  employed 
in  manufactures  is  12,  all  weavers,  except  2,  employed  in  making 
potato-flour.  There  are  2  smiths,  1  mason,  1  forester,  7  day- 
labourers,  and  1  or  2  who  often  employ  themselves  in  fishing. 
The  men  connected  with  the  salmon  stations,  during  the  fishing 
season,  do  not  in  general  belong  to  the  parish. 

Male  servants,  above  20  years  old,  .  26 

uuder  20,  -  .  ig 

Female  servants,  -  _  -18 

-     .    ,  Total,  63 

Agriculture. — 

The  number  of  acres  under  cultivation  is       .  2120 
in  natural  pasture,  .  .  I34 

under  wood,  -  _  264 

Total,  2518 
The  greater  part  of  the  unreclaimed  portion  is  on  the  face  of 
Lyndemus  and  Fliskmill  Hill.  Patches  of  it  might  be  cultivated, 
but  it  is  more  convenient  for  pasturage  as  it  is.  Eight  acres,  now  ap- 
propriated and  in  wood,  (on  the  farm  of  Logie,)  once  formed  part 
of  a  common  which  stretched  into  the  adjoining  part  of  Abdie. 

Rerd  of  Land.— The  average  rent  of  arable  land  is  L.  1,  8s  per 
imperial  acre.  It  is,  in  general,  partly  a  money  and  partly  a  grain 
rent,  paid  according  to  the  fiar  prices,  limited,  however,  in  some 
cases,  by  a  maximum,  or  by  both  a  maximum  and  minimum. 

Rate  0/ ^a^es.— Farm-servants,  in  bothies,  receive  L.  10;  8 
cwt.  (61  bolls  Scotch,)  oatmeal ;  4  pints  (1  pint  Scotch)  milk,  and 
potatoes  for  supper,  for  one-half  of  the  year.  Those  married  have 
i^.  8,  house,  garden  of  300  square  yards ;  milk  and  meal  as 


604 


FIFESHIRE. 


above  ;  and  three  cart  load  of  potatoes  or  three  lippies  bounds  i.  e. 
about  300  square  yards.  The  foreman  has  the  same,  except  L.  12 
instead  of  L.  8,  and  a  "  cow-keep,"  instead  of  an  allowance  of  milk. 
Day-labourers  have  Is,  6d.  without  victuals,  but  2d.  less  in  winter, 
and  2d.  more  in  summer.  Women  receive  8d.  without  victuals. 
Reapers  receive  L.  1,  10s.  with  victuals,  for  the  harvest;  binders 
have  1  Os.  more.  The  harvest-home  being  now  discontinued,  each 
receives  Is.  in  lieu  at  the  end  of  the  harvest.  Threaving,  which, 
however,  is  not  much  practised,  is  at  the  rate  of  3d.  for  twenty- 
four  sheaves  of  oats  or  barley ;  and  4d.  for  twenty-eight  of  wheat. 

The  price  of  an  iron  plough  is  L.  3,  12s. ;  of  a  harrow,  L.  1, 
6s. ;  of  a  double  horse  cart,  L.  12 ;  of  a  set  of  horse  shoes,  3s.  4d. 
A  mason  receives  2s.  6d.  a-day  ;  or  for  a  dry  dike,  8s. ;  a  cottage, 
L.  1,  lOs.  ;  and  a  two-story  house  L,2  the  rood;  and  for  hewing 
freestone  3id.  the  foot.  An  ordinary  weaver  makes  7s.  or  8s. 
a-week ;  and  a  woman  wins  7d.  a-day  by  winding  the  bobbins. 

Live-Stock. — The  common  breed  of  cattle  is  the  Fifeshire,  cros- 
sed with  the  Forfarshire  and  Teeswater,  but  chiefly  with  the  for- 
mer. Sheep  are  seldom  kept.  This  is  a  grain  rather  than  a 
grazing  or  green  crop  part  of  the  country, — the  hardness  of  the  soil 
not  being  so  favourable  to  the  expansion  of  the  bulbous  roots. 

Husbandry. — The  rotation  of  the  crops  is  generally  for  six  years, 
and  in  nearly  the  following  order  :  On  the  low  grounds,  which  are 
the  richest  and  strongest,  summer  fallow  or  green  crop,  (turnips  and 
potato,)  wheat,  peas,  barley,  grass,  and  oats.  If  peas  are  not  sown, 
the  grass  remains  for  two  years.  On  the  lighter  soils  of  the  hill  sides, 
in  which  wheat  is  rarely  sown,  green  crop,  barley,  and  grass  for 
two  years,  barley  and  oats.  A  rotation  of  five  years,  which  is  some- 
times adopted,  may  be  as  follows  :  Fallow  or  green  crop,  wheat, 
grass  for  two  years,  oats ;  or,  instead  of  two  years  in  grass,  barley 
and  grass. 

Much  of  the  soil  being  naturally  wet  and  marshy,  and  a  good 
deal  of  it  lying  on  till,  draining  has  been  greatly  required.  Much 
has  been  done  in  this  respect,  by  the  farmers  from  time  to  time ; 
and  although  more  is  still  needed,  most  of  the  soil  is  now  compa- 
ratively dry  and  in  good  condition.  Stone-draining  is  that  chief- 
ly used.  A  little  of  the  surface  tile-draining  was  introduced  last 
year,  and  seemingly  with  good  effect. 

Little  could  now  be  transferred  from  the  unreclaimed  land  to 
the  cultivated,  much  of  it  lying  on  steep  slopes.  And  certainly 
the  most  ornamental,  and  perhaps  also  the  most  profitable,  method 


PLISK. 


605 


of  laying  it  out,  would  be  in  wood.  A  considerable  part  of  the 
low  ground  was  reclaimed,  only  within  the  last  forty  years ;  and  of 
the  high  ground,  within  a  much  later  date. 

The  leases  are  for  nineteen  years,  and  seem  fairly  adjusted  be- 
tween the  landlord  and  tenant. 

The  farm-buildings  are  generally  good,  though  still  susceptible 
of  improvement.  There  is  a  considerable  deficiency  of  enclosures, 
especially  on  the  low  grounds.  They  consist  solely  of  stone  dikes. 
Some  have  of  late  been  added. 

The  introduction  of  bone-dust  for  turnip  has  been  of  great  ser- 
vice, in  the  cultivation  of  the  hill  lands,  rendering  it  so  much  more 
.  easy  to  apply  manure  to  them.  About  sixteen  bushels  of  bone-dust, 
(2s.  per  bushel,)  mixed  with  eight  of  theashes  of  burnt  coal  or  turf, 
will  serve  for  an  acre,  and  a  cart-load  of  this  will  cover  about  four 
acres.  Animalized  carbon  has  also  been  used  for  manure.  Instead 
of  eating  off  the  turnip  with  sheep,  it  is  found  equally  good  to  leave 
and  plough  down  the  shaws. 

Quarries.— There  is  a  quarry  of  red  sandstone  close  by  the  ri- 
ver under  Flisk  Wood,  and  two  of  good  clinkstone  in  other  parts  of 
the  parish ;  but  none  are  of  any  great  importance. 

Fisheries.— There  are  five  or  six  stations  for  salmon-fishing.  At 
some,  the  sweep-net  is  used,  at  others  (chiefly  the  lower)  the  tut- 
net,  with  three  or  four  men  to  a  boat.  Stake-nets  would  be  more 
favourable  for  fishing,  but  are  for  the  present  interdicted. 

The  salmon  are  not  caught  in  abundance,but  are  of  excellent  qua- 
hty.  The  best  seasons  are  in  Julyand  August,  when,  the  rains  being 
over,  and  the  snow  melted,  the  quantity  of  water  in  the  river  is  dimi- 
nished, and  the  boats  get  nearer  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  within 
the  run  of  the  fish.  If  there  is  much  water  in  the  river  in  the  spawn 
ingseason,thespawnisdeposited  too  high  on  the  banks;  andif  there 
lollows  a  dry  February,  much  of  it  is  destroyed.    The  salmon  fry 
smoults  as  they  are  called,  pass  this  from  the  beginning  of  March 
about  three  mches  long,  and  are  caught  on  their  return,  two  or 
three  months  afterwards,  as  grilse,  six  inches  or  upwards  in  length 
lour,  hve,  or  six  pounds  in  weight.*  * 

The  seals  are  sometimes  so  audacious  and  cunning  as  to  tumble 
over  the  net,  seize  a  salmon,  and  make  off  with  it. 

There  are  two  spirling  stations,  Flisk-point  and  Kincase,  with 

little  anLal  restored  to  the  -^"0^  X1?^        7^' -a  ^  '"'"''"^^  "^'^ 

caught  two  months  af  erwardsTn  it  J  n  n\    %  ""g'  ^g«>'n 

b  u  iiuia  riiierwaras  on  its  ascent,  and  weighed  no  less  than  8  lbs. 


606 


FIFESIIIUE. 


two  or  llft-ee  nets  at  each.  The  net  used  is  trumpet-shaped,  and 
eight  yards  long.  Its  mouth  is  fixed  to  poles  placed  in  the  cur- 
rent, and  across  the  stream ;  and  the  fish  are  caught  in  the  eb- 
bing tide.  They  are  sold  from  Is.  to  2s.  6d.  the  hundred,  and 
being  taken  to  Perth  are  despatched  by  the  coaches,  for  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  markets.  A  few  are  sent  to  Dundee.  They 
spawn  in  April  and  May,  when  the  fishing  is  discontinued,  but  they 
are  good  in  November  and  some  months  afterwards,  particularly 
in  January  and  February. 

Produce. — The  following  is  the  average  gross  amount  of  raw 
produce  raised  in  the  parish  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  and 
at  the  average  fiar  price  for  the  last  seven  years. 

Acres.     Produce.  Price.  Value. 


Wheat,  -       288         824  qr.  L.  2,  6s.  S^j-d.  the  qr.  L.  192-3 

Barley,  -        323  1230  L.  1,  7s.  2^d.  ditto,  1673 

Oats,  -         334  1.311  L.  1,  Os.  8yVJ-    do.  1359 

Peas,  -          133         283  L.  1,  7s.  6d.  389 

Potato,  -        103  7500  cwt.  §■  at  2s.  and  i  at  Is.  thee wt.  62o 

Turnip,  -         117  L.  3  per  acre,  585 

Hay  cultivated,  6300  truss.  Is.  6d.  the  truss,  489 

Pasture,  -       431  L.  3  an  ox  pasture,  700 

L. 7743 

Manvfactiires. —  A  potato-flour  manufactory  has  lately  been 
erected  on  the  farm  of  East  Flisk.  Two  men  and  three  women 
are  employed  in  it.  Their  time  of  labour  is  the  same  with  that 
of  other  servants  on  the  farm  ;  and  their  occupation  seems  by  no 
means  prejudicial  to  health.  The  potatoes  are  grated  down  by  a 
rough  revolving  cylinder  kept  in  motion  by  a  steam  engine  of 
two\orse  power.  The  machine  is  the  fruit  of  Mr  Morton's  own 
mechanical  ingenuity. 

Navigation.— A\i\\o\ig}\  the  Tay,  in  its  main  channel,  sweeps 
along  the  length  of  the  parish,  it  is  of  little  avail  for  shipping,  from 
want"  of  a  pier.  Coal,  tile,  stone,  and  slate  are  occasionally  land- 
ed, but  grain  cannot  be  shipped. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Mar]iet-Town.~The  nearest  market-towns  are  Newburgh,  Cu- 
par-Fife, and  Dundee,  distant  from  the  church,  six,  eight,  and 
(including  the  passage  across  the  Tay,)  ten  miles  respectively.  All 
these,  especially  Cupar,  are  frequented  by  the  farmer,  for  the  sale 
of  agricultural  produce. 

There  is  not  a  village  in  the  parish.  The  nearest  approxima- 
tion to  one,  is  the  farm-town  of  Glenduckie,  consisting  of  the  farm 

4 


PLISK.  607 

house  and  twelve  cottages,  seven  of  which  are  occupied  by  the 
farm-servants. 

Means  of  Communication. — The  parish  is  deficient  in  proper  and 
convenient  means  of  communication.  The  nearest  post-offices  are 
in  Newburgh  and  Cupar.  The  same  must  be  said  regarding  public 
conveyances.  There  is  no  turnpike,  but  the  statute  labour  road  be- 
tween Woodhaven  and  Newburgh,  runs  through  the  length  of  the 
parish,  distant  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  nearest 
piers  are  at  Balmerino  and  Newburgh.  The  steamers  between  Dun- 
dee and  Perth  pass  and  repass  daily  for  a  great  part  of  the  year,  but 
there  are  no  proper  and  regular  means  of  getting  on  board. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  church  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Tay,  one  mile  from  the  eastern,  three  from  the  western, 
and  between  four  and  five  from  the  south-western  extremity  of  the 
parish.  Glenduckie,  containing,  small  as  it  is,  about  one-fifth  of 
the  population,  lies  four  miles  from  the  church;  and  Dunbog 
church  being  close  at  hand,  the  inhabitants  generally  attend  di- 
vine service  there. 

The  church  was  built  in  1790,*  and  is  in  good  repair,  affording 
accommodation  for  153  sitters.  It  was  seated  by  the  heritors,  and 
portioned  off"  to  the  farmers ;  and  the  seats  are  given  by  them  to 
their  servants  and  cottars.  The  sittings  at  the  communion  table 
are  left  unallocated. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1811.  The  glebe,  exclusive  of  house, 
offices,  and  garden  ground,  is  about  5  acres  imperial,  and  might  rent 
for  L.  7.  The  stipend  is  10  chalders,  8  bolls  Scotch  of  grain,  and 
L.  10,  7s.  ^d.  in  money,  L.  I,  13s.  4d.  of  which  is  grass-money ;  the 
average  for  the  last  four  years  is  L.  149,  and  for  the  first  three  of 
these  only  L.  141.  There  is  no  separate  allowance  for  communion 
elements. 

The  number  of  families  connected  with  the  Established  Church 
is  51,  comprehending  247  individuals  ;  and  four  families,  compre- 
hending nme  mdividuals,  attend  Dissenting  and  Seceding  places  of 
worship.  The  average  number  of  communicants  in  the  Establish 
ed  Church  is  120. 

List  of  the  Ministers  of  the  Parish  from  1561._Those  from 
1561  to  1700,  are  given  from  a  recently  published  "  Catalogue  of 
the  Mmisters  in  the  Synod  of  Fife,  from  the  Reformation  in  1560 
to  the  year  1700 the  rest  are  from  the  Presbytery  Records. 

Mr  (Sir)  James  Balfour,  «  persoune  of  Flisk,"  1561.  Mr  Robert 

bee'n  dhconSul]*'"  """^  °'  ''"^  '''''  °"  sacramental  occasions  sccns  to  l.ave 


608  FIFESHIRE. 

Paterson,  1567.  He  had  also  the  charge  of  the  Kirks  of  Dunbog 
and  Creich,  where  readers  officiated.  Mr  Peter  Watson,  15S6.  Mr 
John  Wemyss,  admitted  September  1590,  became  Principal  of  St 
Leonard's  College  in  1562.  Mr  John  Makgill,  1613,  conformed  to 
Presbytery  1638;  died  22d  March  1659.  Mr  William  Myles,  ad- 
mitted May  3d  1660  ;  conformed  to  Episcopacy  1662,  died  1694. 
Vacant  from  1694  to  1697.  Mr  William  Thompson,  admitted 
May  6,  1697 ;  died  in  April  1752.  Mr  William  Gourlay,  March 
6,  1753,  died  16th  October  1780.  Mr  William  Gourlay,  ordained 
to  FHsk',  20th  September  1781,  died  2d  March  1810.  Mr  John 
Fleming,  D.  D.  removed  from  Bressay,  18th  April  1811,  translated 
to  Clackmannan  hi  October  1832.  Mr  George  Marshall,  trans- 
lated from  Bressay,  7  th  June  1833. 

There  are  no  Societies ;  but  there  have  been  occasional  collec- 
tions in  the  church  for  religious  and  charitable  objects.  These 
have  been  liberal :  but  no  average  can  with  fairness  yet  be  given, 
as  it  is  only  within  these  few  years,  they  have  been  at  all  regular. 

Education.— There  is  but  one  school,  the  parochial— situated  a 
mile  to  the  west  of  the  church,  and  more  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  population  than  is  the  latter.  The  branches  taught  are,  read- 
ino-,  writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  grammar,  and  Latin.  Read- 
ing 2s.  per  quarter  ;  reading  and  writing,  2s.  6d. ;  readmg,  writing, 
and  arithmetic,  3s. ;  Latin,  5s.  The  teacher  enjoys  the  legal  amount 
of  accommodation.  The  salary  is  the  maximum,  L.  34,  4s.  4d., 
and  the  average  amount  of  school  fees,  L.  12, 

All  can  read  and  write  who  are  of  age  to  do  so,— attention  by 
parents  to  the  education  of  their  children  being  general. 

There  is  no  parish  library  ;  but,  for  the  last  few  years,  L.  5,  from 
the  Donaldson  fund,*  has  been  annually  expended  on  prizes  for 
the  parochial  and  Sabbath  schools,  and  greatly  with  the  view 
of  forming  small  family  libraries  among  the  parishioners.  An  ar- 
rangement is  contemplated,  by  which  part  of  this  sum  may  yet  go 
to  the  formation  of  a  parish  library. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  number  of  paupers  nearly 
averages  4,  receiving  from  L.  1  to  L  2,  10s.  each  per  annum  ; 
or,  instead  of  money,  meal,  varying  from  2  to  4  pecks  a  month. 
Average  collections  for  the  last  ten  years  L.  6,  12s. ;  average  or 
proclamation  for  ditto,  4s. ;  interest  on  money  L.3,  8s.;  total,  L.  lU, 
4s  Within  this  period,  there  has  been  but  one  legacy  for  behoot 
of'the  poor,  L.  10.    The  deficit  in  the  funds  has  hitherto  been 

•  Mr  Donaldson  had  the  farm  of  Logie,  in  this  parish,  for  some  time. 

3 


FLISK. 


609 


met  by  drawing  upon  the  principal  in  the  bank,  and  by  donations 
from  the  heritors. 

Fairs,     —  There  are  no  fairs,  inns,  or  alehouses  in  the  parish. 

Fwe/.— Coal  is  the  fuel  used.  It  is  chiefly  brought  in  vessels 
to  the  beach  from  the  north  of  England,  at  13s.  6d.,  or  from  the 
banks  of  the  Forth,  at  1  Is.  6d.  the  ton.  Sometimes,  however,  it  is 
driven  from  the  Balbirnie  pit,  twelve  miles  off,  or  from  Newburgh 
and  Balmerino,  as  sloops  will  not  discharge  their  cargo  on  the  strand 
during  winter.  The  farmer  chiefly  consumes  English,  the  cottager 
Scotch  coal. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Since  the  former  Statistical  Account  was  drawn  up  in  1792,  the 
population  of  the  parish  has  decreased  from  331  to  256.  The 
number  of  farms  is  also  less,  the  parish  being  almost  entirely  par- 
titioned at  present  into  seven  large  farms,  from  190  to  490  impe- 
rial acres  each.  Bothies  have  been  partially  introduced.  The 
extent  of  cultivated  ground  is  greater  by  fully  more  than  one-half 
of  what  it  was  in  1792,  having  increased  from  1387  to  2120  im- 
perial acres.  Sheep  are  not  now  regularly  kept ;  at  a  former  pe- 
riod, they  were.  The  breed  was  small.  Fed  on  the  natural  pas- 
ture during  the  day,  they  were  enclosed  in  "  tathe-folds"  during 
the  night.  These  folds,  changed,  every  few  days,  for  the  sake  of 
manuring  the  ground,  were  built  by  the  shepherd.  The  fence  was 
a  turf  dike,  which  was  thrown  down  when  the  ploughing  season 
came. 

The  plough,  attended  by  a  driver,  as  well  as  managed  by  a  plough- 
man, was  drawn,  in  winter,  by  four  cattle  and  two  horses ;  and  in 
the  end  of  spring,  when  they  went  twice  to  the  field  in  the  day, 
by  two  cattle  and  two  horses.  The  oldest  cattle  were  sold  to  the 
grazier  after  the  barley-seed  was  sown,  and,  being  seven  or  eight 
years  old,  were  of  a  good  size.  The  plough  itself  was  a  rude  in- 
strument nine  or  ten  feet  long,  all  made  of  wood  except  the  cul- 
ler, sock,  and  "  reeshoe."  The  wood  was  supplied  by  the  farmer. 
The  iron  was  worth  about  6s.  The  carpenter  and  smith  were 
not  paid  for  each  job,  but  received  so  much  corn  in  the  year  for 
doing  the  work  on  the  farm.*  The  ploughman  was  generally  a 
married  man,  and  had  one  or  one  and  a  half  Scotch  acres,  about 
one  and  a  quarter  or  one  and  three  quarters  imperial  acres.  On 
the  produce  of  this,  he  kept  his  cow,  which  he  had  to  purchase  for 


FIFE. 


*  On  one  farm  the  carpenter  receivecl  six  firlols  of  oats. 

Q  q 


610 


FIFESHIRE. 


himself,  during  the  winter.  In  summer,  it  grazed  along  with  the 
farmer's  own  cattle.  The  goadmen,  who  were  young,  and  also 
the  horse  herd,  who  was  generally  older,  lived  in  their  master's 
house. 

About  seventy  years  ago,  the  crops  raised  were  not  so  varied  as 
now,  and  the  system  of  agriculture  was  different ;  oats,  barley,  and 
pease  were  what  were  generally  sown.  There  was  no  cultivated 
grass,  and  no  turnip  or  potato.  Turnip  was  first  introduced  by 
Mr  Barclay  on  Pittachop  farm,  about  fifty-eight  years  ago.  By 
1792  (as  appears  from  the  former  Account)  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  wheat  was  grown,  about  190  acres ;  but  now,  it  has  increased 
to  290  acres.  A  field  of  15  acres  contained  barley  and  oats,  for 
twenty-two  years  in  succession. 

At  the  middle  of  last  century,  or  even  later,  the  rental  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  from  one-tenth  to  one-sixth  of  what  it  is  now ; 
and  even  forty  years  ago,  probably,  not  much  above  one-fourth. 
This,  however,  is  to  some  extent  only  apparent,  as  the  nominal  va- 
lue of  many  other  things  has  undergone  a  corresponding  relative 
change.  Part  of  the  rent  was  paid  in  grain  and  meal.  A  house, 
now  the  farm-house  of  Fliskmill;  was  formerly  the  girnal  for  the 
Ballinbreich  estate.  The  meal  would  sometimes  accumulate  to 
600  cwt.  before  it  was  sold. 

The  first  two-story  farm  house  was  built  only  sixty-one  years 
ago  (in  1776.)  All  the  accommodation  the  farmer  had  before,  was 
his  "  but"  and  his  "  ben." 

The  chief  improvements  of  which  the  parish  seems  susceptible, 
are  increased  draining  and  enclosing ;  the  erection  of  a  greater 
number  of  cottages  ;  planting  the  uncultivated  lands  ;  and  the 
erection  of  a  ))ier  for  the  shipment  of  grain  and  the  easier  landing  of  j 
lime  and  coal,  &c.  and  for  rendering  the  Perth  and  Dundee 
steamers  available  for  the  convenience  of  the  inhabitants. 

Drawn  up  July  1837.    Revised  October  1838. 


PARISH  OF  ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OT  FIFE. 

PARISH  VACANT. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name,  Bo7indaries,  Sfc. — Anstuther  Wester,  a  small  parish 
in  the  presbytery  of  St  Andrews,  is  situated  on  the  Frith  of  Forth, 
about  six  miles  to  the  westward  of  Fifeness.    The  origin  of  the 
name  is  uncertain.    It  is  not  known  whether  the  family  of  An- 
struther,  who  are  the  superiors,  gave  their  name  to  it,  or  took 
theirs  from  it.    In  the  former  Statistical  Account,  it  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  the  Celtic  word  Struther,  signifying  "  a  low  marshy 
place ;"  and,  as  generally  happens,  something  in  the  situation  is 
found  or  fancied  to  correspond  with  the  etymology  ;  "  for  although 
the  site  of  the  town  and  church,  in  a  hollow  at  the  mouth  of  a 
small  rivulet,  is  now  tolerably  dry,  there  are  proofs  that  it  must  at 
one  time  have  merited  such  an  appellation."    We  have  our  doubts 
as  to  this  derivation ;  but  are  in  want  of  any  thing  better  to  offer. 
The  parish  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  sea  for  about  half 
a  mile  ;  on  the  east,  by  Anstruther  Easter  ;  on  the  north,  by  Carn- 
bee  and  Kilrenny ;  and  on  the  west,  by  Pittenweem.    From  the 
narrow  point  of  land  occupied  by  the  town,  church  and  church- 
yard, the  parish,  which  is  of  very  irregular  breadth  and  form,  ex- 
tends upwards  of  2  miles  to  the  north-west,  and  contains  about 
600  acres,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  arable.     There  may  be 
about  10  acres  of  grass -lands,  upon  eight  of  which  the  burgesses 
have  the  privilege  of  pasturage,  and  of  cutting  turf,  upon  payment 
of  a  very  small  sum  into  the  funds  of  the  burgh. 

Isle  of  May.— The  Isle  of  May,  which  lies  about  six  miles 
south,  is  generally  supposed  to  belong  to  Anstruther  Wester  ;  but 

*  Drawn  up  by  the  Rev.  George  Milligaii,  Elie,  from  notes  left  by  the  Rev. 
Dr  Carstairs,  late  Minister  of  the  parish,  and  from  valuable  information  communi- 
cated to  him  by  Matthew  F.  ConoUy,  Esq.  town-clerk  of  Anstruther  ;  Mr  Thomas 
Wilhamson,  tenant,  Grange-Muir ;  and  Mr  George  Taylor,  schoolmaster  of  Anstru- 
ther Wester,  in  their  respective  departments. 


612 


FIFESIIIRE. 


it  is  also  claimed  by  Crail.    It  is  about  a  mile  long,  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  broad.    On  it  there  is  a  well  of  fine  water  and 
a  small  lake.    It  affords  excellent  pasturage  for  sheep  :  and  the 
May  mutton  is  famous  in  all  quarters,  "  A  very  intelligent  farmer, 
who  has  dealt  in  sheep  above  thirty  years,  and  has  had  them  from 
all  the  different  corners  of  Scotland,  says,  that  he  knows  no  place 
so  well  adapted  for  meliorating  the  wool  as  the  Island  of  May. 
He  adds,  that  the  fleeces  of  the  coarsest  wooUed  sheep  that  ever 
came  from  the  worst  pasture  in  Scotland,  when  put  on  the  Island 
of  May,  in  the  course  of  one  season,  become  as  fine  as  satin." 
It  is  frequented  by  a  great  variety  of  sea  fowl,  such  as  kittiewakes, 
scarts,  dunters,  gulls,  sea-pyets,  marrots,  &c.    One  side  of  the 
rock  is  composed  of  stately  basaltic  columns.    There  is  a  light- 
house on  the  island,  which  was  originally  built  in  the  time  of 
Charles  I.  by  Alexander  Cunningham,  laird  of  Barns.   It  is  said, 
that,  as  the  unfortunate  architect  of  the  town  was  returning  from 
the  isle,  he  was  drowned  in  a  storm  supposed  to  have  been  raised 
by  some  still  more  unhappy  old  women,  who  were  in  consequence 
burnt  as  witches.    At  first  the  light  was  only  a  fire  of  coals;  but 
the  property  having,  in  the  course  of  time,  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Duchess  of  Portland,  as  heiress  of  the  late  Major- General 
John  Scott  of  Balcomie,  it  was  purchased  from  her  by  the  Com- 
missioners of  Northern  Lights,  who  in  1816  rebuilt  the  tower,  and 
fitted  it  up  with  reflectors  and  oil  lights.    On  the  island  are  the 
ruins  of  a  priory,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Pit- 
tenweem,  and  of  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Adrian.  Population 
of  the  island,  2  males  and  1 0  females. 

Climate. — The  climate,  on  the  whole,  cannot  be  considered  as 
unhealthy.  In  the  spring  the  east  winds  prevail,  and  occasionally 
what  is  called  an  easterly  haar  sets  in ;  during  the  continuance  of 
which,  the  atmosphere  is  by  no  means  very  comfortable.  Some 
of  the  heaviest  gales  that  visit  the  coast,  come  from  the  south-west 
in  winter.  There  is  no  epidemical  disease  which  can  be  said 
to  be  peculiar  to  the  parish ;  and  the  cases  of  longevity  are  ra- 
ther numerous  in  proportion  to  the  population.  Within  these  few 
years,  several  have  died  betwixt  eighty  and  ninety  years  of  age  ; 
two  at  the  age  of  ninety-four  ;  one  aged  ninety-five.  In  1832, 
while  cholera  was  very  prevalent  and  fatal  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood, there  was  not  a  single  case  that  occurred  within  its  bounds. 

Hydrography. — The  Frith  of  Forth  bounds  the  parish  for  about 
half  a  mile  on  the  south  ;  and  a  small  burn  called  the  Dreel,  or 


ANSTRUTIIER  WESTEl?. 


G13 


more  commonly  Anstruther  Burn,  divides  it  from  Anstrutlier 
Easter.  A  tradition  prevails  that  there  was  once  a  salmon-fishery 
in  this  rivulet ;  "  from  the  smallness  of  it,  this  does  not  appear 
very  probable."  Nothing  of  the  kind  exists  at  present ;  but 
yet,  in  former  times,  the  fact  may  have  been  as  stated ;  and 
both  the  seals  of  the  corporation,  the  old  and  the  new  one,  bear 
testimony  to  it, — the  former  exhibiting  a  drave-boat  well  manned, 
— the  latter  three  salmon  crossed.  The  form  of  a  fish  of  the  same 
kind  also  floats  upon  the  top  of  the  church  spire,  in  place  of  a 
weather-cock.* 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — The  lithology  of  the  parish  belongs 
to  the  carboniferous  formation,  and  consists  of,  \st,  the  inferior 
coal  measures  ;  2(1,  the  carboniferous  limestone  ;  3d,  the  upper  or 
true  coal  measure.  If  a  line  be  drawn  from  the  shore  at  the  point 
where  St  Monance  and  Pittenweem  parishes  meet,  to  the  north- 
east angle  of  this  parish,  it  will  mark  the  course  of  the  carbonife- 
rous limestone  which  divides  the  upper  from  the  lower  coal  mea- 
sures. 

1.  The  under  coal  measures  consist  of  alternations  of  red- 
dish silicious  sandstones,  sometimes  gritty,  shales,  fire-clay,  and 
thin  unworkable  seams  of  coal.  The  shales  contain  ironstone 
m  bands,  and  septaria  ;  and  not  unfrequently  present  a  slaty 
bituminous  character,  not  unlike  to  the  older  slate  clay.  The 
whole  measures  are  full  of  vegetable  remains,  which,  if  not  of  so 
frequent  occurrence,  are  at  least  in  far  better  preservation  than 
those  of  the  upper  coal  measures.  Thin  beds  of  shell-limestone 
and  shale,  with  shells,  are  found  subordinate  to  the  general  forma- 
tion. Excellent  sections  of  these  are  exposed  along  the  seaward 
boundary  of  the  parish. 

2.  The  carboniferous  limestone,  which  is  nowhere  brought  to 
the  surface  in  this  parish,  is  exposed  along  the  shore,  east  of  St 
Monance,  and  bears  in  the  direction  already  noticed.  This  has 
been  fully  proved  by  the  mining  operations  carried  on  west  of 
Pittenweem.    It  consists  of  four  beds,  varying  from  3  to  10  feet 

•  In  connexion  with  the  salmon  fishery,  the  following  story  is  told  A'gentleman 
net  tfhTcte£";t  't"h  "^^  "'"t"''''  '^'^  above-n^e^ntion^d  report,  plaSl  Xe- 
"n  canturinT  onP  ^         ,  ^^'^"""g  "  ^  haul,"  and  to  his  great  joy  succeeded 

warfn^he  flnT.^T    '    T",'  generally  supposed  that  a  well-known 

Sr  a  iZ  w!..  '/"■"'Jy  deposited  the  aforesaid  salmon  there,  to  furnish. mat- 
Seiureif  l^n  ^'"='=P'       ^°'"'''^y       mentioned,  ho  had  not  the 

weThouH  lil  l^r^  "'^t-     '^I'he  story  tells  well  enough  ;  but 

Hve  salmJn  not  onn'r^'^'^T  g"* '^^  very  opportunely  possession  of  the 

iive  saimon,  not  one  being  taken  on  the  whole  coast. 


614 


FIFESHIttE. 


in  thickness,  of  excellent  white  limestone,  alternating  with  shale 
and  slaty  sandstone.  It  contains  all  the  shells,  corallines,  and 
other  organisms  peculiar  to  this  formation.  Between  the  lowest  bed 
and  the  under  coal  measure,  many  beds  of  slate  and  shale  appear, 
in  which  thin  beds  of  blue  limestone,  with  encrinites,  occur.  These 
seem  tb  mark  the  dawn  of  this  truly  marine  deposit. 

3.  Superincumbent  on  the  limestone  are  the  true  coal  measures. 
These  consist  of  the  usual  alternates  of  sandstone,  shale,  iron- 
stone, fire-clay  and  coals,  with  subordinate  calcareous  strata.  The 
coal  not  being  worked  in  this  parish,  it  can  only  be  judged  of 
from  the  workings  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Pittenweem.  There 
it  consisted  of  seventeen  beds,  making  an  aggregate  thickness  of 
82  feet  6  inches.    Of  course,  only  a  few  of  the  lower  coals  can 
make  their  appearance  in  the  parish  of  Anstruther,  as  they  crop 
out  to  the  eastward.    Faults  and  dislocations  of  various  kinds  de- 
range them  so  frequently,  that  it  is  impossible  to  state  with  certain- 
ty what  may  be  found  to  the  north-west  of  this  parish.   This,  how- 
ever, we  know,  that  two  seams  are  wrought  at  Balcaskie ;  and  as 
the  dip  is  moderate,  and  these  not  apparently  the  lowest,  the  crop- 
ping of  still  lower  seams  must  lie  between  Balcaskie  and  Grange- 
muir.    In  the  northern  division  of  the  parish,  the  dip  is  about  10° 
to  west  north-west..  In  the  southern,  the  dip  is  more  irregular,  the 
strata  being  forced  up  into  bosses,  or  thrown  down  in  troughs.  The 
main  boss,  and  in  fact  the  only  one,  may  be  stated  as  having  its 
centre  in  the  harbour  of  East  Anstruther,  from  which  point  the 
dip  is  quaquaversal,  until,  for  a  mile  inland,  where  they  flatten  out 
and  assume  the  regular  inclination  to  west  north-west.    So  evident 
and  unbroken  is  this  rounding  of  the  strata,  that  the  high  ledge  of 
Billowness,  west  of  Anstruther,  rounds  and  again  makes  its  ap- 
pearance at  Cellardyke  harbour,  a  distance  of  nearly  two  miles. 
Two  faults  occur  west  of  the  Billowness,  which  derange  the  strata 
for  a  short  distance,  throwing  them  up  to  the  north-east,  about  four 
or  six  fathoms.    There  are  no  heterogeneous  veins  ;  but  heteroge- 
neous veins  occasioned  by  infiltration,  occur  in  the  Billowness  rock. 
This  rock  is  ferruginous  sandstone,  traversed  by  cross  fissures, 
which  are  found  filled  with  arenaceous  iron  oxide  from  the  stone. 
The  water  percolating  and  acting  on  the  inherent  iron  has  produced" 
this  uncommon  appearance. 

From  the  extent  of  the  rock  measures  laid  bare  by  the  sea,  a 
very  excellent  field  is  afforded  to  the  oryctologist.  Indeed,  to  few 
points  of  the  country,  could  the  student  repair  with  greater  advan- 


ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


615 


tage.    Here  be  might  observe  the  progressive  developement  and  , 
changes  which  took  place  in  the  animal  and  vegetable  economy, 
during  the  carboniferous  era.    The  following  is  a  list  of  a  few  of 
the  more  remarkable  fossil  organisms,  animal  and  vegetable. 

Animal. 

Fish  scales,  teeth,  and  coprolites. 

Fioles  of  the  Ganoida  and  Placoida  race  have  been  discovered. 

Shells  of  the  Unio,  Mytilus,  Anodonta,  &c. 

Encrinites  and  various  corallines. 

Shells  and  other  marine  exuviae,  not  yet  described. 

Vegetable. 

Stigmarise,  numerous,  very  fine  varieties. 
Sigillariae,  plentiful,       do.  do. 
CycadccE,  several,  do.  do. 

Cacteaa,  ~\ 

Epiphylla,  V  These,  or  species  resembling  these  more  than  the  Stigmarise. 

Euphorbia,  ) 

Lepidodendra,  numerous. 

Ulodendra,  frequent. 

Catamites,  numerous  gigantic  specimens. 

Equiseta,  exceedingly  plentiful. 

Sphenopoteres,     do.  do. 

Cyllopteres,  very  beautiful  and  rare  varieties. 

Meuropteres,      do.       do.  do. 

Sphenophylla,  plentiful. 

Lycopodites,  do. 

Carpothylites,  several  have  been  discovered. 
Cannophyllites,  exceedingly  abundant. 
Graminiae,  do.  do. 

Many  other  species  occur,  and  all  in  excellent  preservation, 
owing  to  the  ferruginous  indurated  nature  of  the  rocks.  They  are 
easily  freed  from  the  matrix,  and  are  every  way  worthy  of  the  at- 
tention of  the  fossil  collector. 

The  only  ore  worthy  of  notice  is  that  of  iron.  It  occurs  im- 
bedded in  the  shale  and  slate-clay  in  the  form  of  thin  bands  and 
septaria.  This  ore  is  an  argillaceous  carbonate  of  iron,  yielding 
from  30  to  60  per  cent,  of  iron.  The  septaria  are  in  general  the 
purest,  though  sometimes  containing  carbonate  of  lime,  iron  py- 
rites, coprolites,  and  other  impurities.  It  has  never  been  mined, 
but  is  frequently  gathered  by  the  shore,  as  washed  out  from  the  dis- 
integrated strata,  and  sells  at  from  9s.  to  12s.  for  24  cwt.  It  is  car- 
ried to  Newcastle  at  little  expense,  in  ballast  bottomed  vessels. 
Immediately  on  the  confines  of  the  parish,  at  Pittenweem,  iron 
ore  is  quarried  from  the  shale  to  a  considerable  extent  during  low 
water. 

The  rocks  which  compose  the  district  being  wholly  sedimentary, 
the  parish  presents  no  field  for  the  mineralogist.  The  simple  in- 
gredients of  sandstone,  shale,  fire-clay  and  coal  are  too  well  known 
to  require  individual  description.s. 


616 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  superficial  accumulations  are  Qonfined  exclusively  to  dilu- 
vial clay  with  boulders,  river  silt,  and  peat-moss.  The  first  of 
these  entirely  overlies  the  true  rock  measures,  from  one  end  of  the 
parish  to  the  other.  It  varies  from  six  to  fourteen  feet  in  thick- 
ness, is  of  a  yellowish  or  blue  tenacious  clay,  with  boulders  of  all 
sizes,  from  that  of  a  pebble  to  blocks  of  several  tons  weight.  These 
consist  chiefly  of  primitive  greenstone,  basalt,  granite,  syenite, 
porphyry,  gneiss,  and  other  primordial  rocks.  They  must  owe 
their  origin  to  some  very  general  and  potent  agency,  as  none  of 
these  rocks  occur  in  situ  within  a  distance  of  eighty  or  ninety  miles. 
The  transporting  power  seems  to  have  been  of  long  duration,  and 
to  have  flowed  from  the  west  north-west,  or  nearly  so. 

On  the  south  of  the  Dreel,  this  clay,  from  southern  exposure 
and  long  cultivation,  has  been  superficially  reduced  to  a  fine  loam, 
capable  of  bearing  a  system  of  cropping.  To  the  north,  it  is  still 
to  a  certain  degree  cold  and  retentive ;  but  from  the  system  of 
draining  pursued,  and  careful  rotation,  it  bids  fair  to  rival  the 
southern  division  in  fertility. 

Silt  occurs  along  the  valley  of  the  Dreel,  from  where  it  enters 
the  parish  to  its  junction  with  Carnbee  Burn.  Beyond  this,  the 
united  streams  have  cut  for  themselves  a  deep  glen  or  gill,  till 
their  waters  fall  into  the  Frith.  Before  the  erosion  of  this  glen, 
the  valley  must  have  formed  a  lake  or  swamp,  into  which  debris, 
&c.  was  washed,  which,  in  conjunction  with  the  growth  and  decay 
of  aquatic  plants,  would  form  the  present  silt.  So  soon  as  the 
drainage  glen  was  sufficiently  deep,  the  waters  disappearing  would 
leave  something  similar  to  what  we  now  find,  until  rendered 
thoroughly  and  permanently  useful  by  human  industry-  This  silt 
is,  in  some  places,  of  great  depth,  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  might 
-with  advantage  be  carted  to  the  barer  districts  as  a  compost. 

During  land-floods,  the  Dreel,  which  rises  in  the  high  lands  of 
Ciirnbee,  still  brings  down  a  very  considerable  quantity  of  mud, 
which,  if  any  recipient  hollow  lay  in  its  way,  would  still  form  ex- 
tensive beds  of  silt. 

In  the  north-west  parts  of  the  parish,  and  immediately  west  of 
Grangemuir  House,  a  peat-moss  existed,  which  is  now  planted  or 
converted  into  arable  land.  This  deposit  occupies  the  head  of 
the  valley  or  swamp,  the  very  place  most  favourable  to  the  produc- 
tion of  those  plants  whose  continual  increase  and  decay  went  to 
its  formation.  Fourteen  years  ago,  when  draining  and  digging  this 
moss  for  use,  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  frequently  discovered 


.ANSTRUTHEll  WESTER. 


C17 


trunks  of  trees,  horns,  and  other  organic  remains,  peculiar  to  such 
deposits. 

Mines. —  There  are  no  mines  of  any  description  in  the  parish, 
though  coals  have  been  worked  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  boun- 
daries, at  Waterriggs  and  Balcaskie.  During  summer  1838,  borings 
for  coal  were  made  by  Lord  William  K,  Douglas  ;  but  thin  seams 
only  were  passed  through.  These  trials  seem  to  have  been  made 
too  far  to  the  eastward,  as  the  workable  seams  of  the  St  Monance 
basin  must  crop  out  considerably  farther  west.  If  coals  shall  ever 
be  discovered  in  this  parish,  it  must  be  between  Grangemuir  and 
Balcaskie,  and  subjacent  to  the  two  Kellie  seams  now  in  process 
of  workinsf. 

There  are  no  quarries  in  the  parish  of  any  note.  Stones  for 
common  purposes  are  quarried  by  the  sea  shore ; — those  for  finer 
purposes  being  brought  from  a  distance. 

A  considerable  quantity  of  ironstone  is  to  be  found  along  the 
shores  of  the  burgh,  which  the  magistrates  let  for  Is.  per  ton  ;  and 
it  is  afterwards  quarried  and  collected  and  shipped  for  Newcastle. 
Copper  ore  is  also  found  on  the  shore  nearly  opposite  the  manse. 
There  are  appearances  of  coal  in  the  parish  at  diiferent  places ; 
and  the  name  given  to  some  acres  lying  north-east  from  the  glebe, 
viz.  the  Cowpits  or  coal-pits,  seem  to  indicate  that  that  mineral 
had  formerly  been  wrought  here.  Last  winter,  many  of  the  inha- 
bitants got  liberty  from  the  magistrates  to  dig  coal  at  the  sea 
shore,  below  flood-mark,  and  supplied  themselves  with  many  cart- 
loads. 

"  A  narrow  stripe  of  flat  land  above  the  shore  has  evidently  been, 
at  a  remote  period,  covered  by  the  sea,  as  it  is  composed  entirely 
of  sea  sand  and  shells,  with  a  very  thin  covering  of  vegetable 
mould ;  and  the  ocean  is  again  fast  approaching  to  its  ancient 
boundary,  every  succeeding  storm  making  new  encroachments 
upon  the  land,  in  defiance  of  all  that  has  been  done  by  man  to 
guard  it  against  the  restless  and  resistless  element.  A  circum- 
stance worthy  of  remark  is,  that  the  sea  is  advancing  upon  a  loioer 
level,  the  smooth  bed  of  shells  and  sand  over  which  its  waters  for- 
merly rolled,  being  now  elevated  some  feet  above  its  surface. 
This  may  be  observed  in  the  face  of  every  break  alongst  the  coast 
here  ;  and  the  writer  does  not  know  how  the  fact  can  be  reconciled 
with  the  modern  theory,  that  the  channel  of  the  German  Ocean 
is  gradually  filling  up,  and  its  waters  consequently  rising  and  over- 
spreading tracts  of  land  on  some  parts  of  its  shores." 


618 


FIFESHIRE. 


Boiany. — The  study  of  the  plants  peculiar  to  any  of  these  soils 
is  rendered  difficult  by  the  universality  of  cultivation.  The  banks 
and  waste  parts  of  the  Dreel  valley  seem  favourable  to  the  follow- 
ing:—  Veronica  chamcsdrijs,  Tanacetum  vulgare  (extremely  abun- 
dant,) Geranium,  several  species,  Lotus  corniculatus,  Alchemilla 
vulgaris,  Galium  verum.  Primula  vulgaris,  AchillcBa  millefolium, 
Myosotis  palustris,  (abundant,)  &c.  At  the  Billowness  are  found. 
Campanula  rotundifolia,  Helianthemum  vulgare.  Thymus  serpyllum, 
Silenc  infiata,  Tormentilla  erecta,  Anagallis  arvensis,  &c.  Rare 
plants  are  also  discovered  by  the  shore,  but  this  is  perhaps  more 
owing  to  marine  influence  than  peculiarity  of  soil. 

Zoology. — The  animals  which  delight  in  peculiar  soils  are  not 
numerous  or  well-marked,  except  in  the  case  of  the  silt  before- 
mentioned.  There,  perhaps,  more  than  in  any  place  of  Scotland, 
do  water-rats  of  great  size  abound.  They  seem  innumerable. 
In  going  along  the  banks  of  the  stream,  where  the  silt  occurs,  one's 
attention  is  arrested  at  almost  every  step  by  a  large  rat  plunging 
into  the  water  from  among  the  rank  grass,  and  swimming  along 
with  wonderful  rapidity,  until  it  disappears  in  one  of  the  holes  with 
which  the  banks  are  thickly  perforated.  A  strong  coincidence  to 
this  occurs  in  the  case  of  Mugdrum  Island  in  the  Tay,  which  is 
wholly  composed  of  silt.  It  was  so  infested  with  rats,  that  all 
plans  failed  of  keeping  them  down,  till  Dutch  cats  were  imported, 
which  was  found  efficient. 

"  Migratory  Birds. — The  woodcock,  fieldfare,  and  curlew,  visit 
the  coast  regularly  in  the  winter,  and  the  Bohemian  jay  is  some- 
times seen  in  the  neighbourhood ;  as  are  also  wild  geese,  when 
the  higher  grounds  are  covered  with  snow.  The  swallow,  cuckoo, 
water-wagtail,  and  plover,  make  their  appearance  in  summer.  The 
early  arrival  of  the  woodcock  and  Bohemian  jay,  indicates  the  se- 
verity of  the  winter  on  the  continent ;  while  the  cuckoo's  visit  is 
a  sure  mark  that  fine  weather  may  be  soon  expected."* 

II. —  Civil  History. 
T^and-owners. —  The  chief  land-owners  are.  Lord  William 
Douglas  of  Dunino  ;  Robert  Bruce,  Esq.  of  Grangemuir  ;  Sir 
Windham  C.  Anstruther  of  Anstruther  and  Carmichael.  Bart. ; 
Matthew  F.  Conolly,  Esq. ;  the  Sea-Box  Society ;  and  the  Burgh. 
All  are  resident  except  Robert  Bruce,  Esq.  and  Sir  W.  C.  An- 
struther. Lord  William  Douglas  has  a  handsome  modern  house 
at  Grangemuir,  built  originally  by  the  late  Mr  Bruce,  and  greatly 

*  Last  Statistical  Account. 


ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


619 


enlarged  since  it  came  into  his  Lordship's  possession.  The  grounds 
about  it  have  lately  been  laid  out  anew  with  much  taste.  The 
place  altogether  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  the  country,  and  might 
form  a  suitable  residence  to  any  gentleman  or  nobleman  in  the  king  - 
dom.  The  town-hall,  in  which  the  magistrates  and  council  hold 
their  meetings,  deserves  also  to  be  mentioned  as  a  large  and  hand- 
some room. 

Session  Records. — The  earliest  entry  in  the  session  records,  as 
possessed  by  the  present  schoolmaster,  is  in  1651.  One  or  two 
short  extracts  from  them  may  be  interesting.  It  would  appear 
from  some  items  mentioned  at  this  time  (1651,)  that  the  town  had 
had  a  rather  unceremonious  visit  from  the  "  Inglis."  Under  the 
date  of  16th  September  1651,  it  is  said,  "  paid  for  ane — to  hold 
ye  sand-glass  ye  ould  being  plundered  by  ye  '  Inglis.'  "  And 
again,  on  the  7th  October  following,  it  is  said,  "  paid  to  Matt 
Thomson  for  drying  ye  ould  bybell,  which  was  cast  in  ye  sea  be 
ye  '  Inglis,'  yn  ye  towne  was  plundered." 

"  5th  September  1689.— The  whilk  day  Mr  Thomas  Auchinleck, 
minister  of  Anstruther  Wester,  was  discharged  by  the  Lords  of 
yr  Majesty's  Privy- Council  from  exercising  the  office  of  the  mi- 
nistry in  this  congregation,  for  not  reading  the  proclamation,  and 
for  not  praying  for  King  Wilham  and  Queen  Mary;  and  the 
church  was  declared  vacant  by  ane  sent  from  the  presbytery  of 
Saint  Andrews  and  Cupar  to  that  effect. 

"  8th  September 1689. — Mr  John  Law,  a  Presbyterian  minister, 
preached  in  the  kirk,  and  intimated  the  proclamation. 

"  15th  April  1691.— Mr  Hardie  preached, — finding  no  objec. 
tions  against  seventeen  elders,  admitted  them. 

"  May  1, 1700. — "  The  session  appoints  aney  three  elders  to  clear 
accounts  with  the  schoolmaster,  and  pay  what  is  due  to  him  by 
the  session  against  Witsunday  next ;  and  likeways  informe  him, 
that  they  have  no  design  to  keep  any  schoolmaster  nor  precentor, 
both  upon  account  of  the  indisposition  of  the  minister  and  the 
poverty  of  the  place."  And  on  the  29th  of  the  same  month  it  is 
said,—"  This  day  Mr  David  Ballingall,  schoolmaster,  precentor, 
and  session-clerk,  did  dimit."  The  schoolmaster's  salary  at  this 
time  stated  at  L.  16,  13s.  Od.  Scots  money. 

"  February  1,  1701.— Mr  William  Hardie,  minister  of  Crail, 
preached.  Collected  for  Andrew  Simson,  skipper  in  Dysert,  and 
his  company,  who  are  slaves  in  Algiers,  L.  16,  00,  00. 

Antiquities—"  At  the  west  end  of  the  town  there  is  a  large 


G20 


FIFESHIRE, 


mound  called  the  Chester-Hill,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  fine 
well.  Two  or  three  years  ago,  in  digging  on  the  side  of  this 
mound  a  foundation  for  a  house,  two  skeletons  were  found  in  the 
most  perfect  preservation,  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other. 
They  were  inclosed  in  a  kind  of  coffin,  consisting  of  a  large  stone 
at  each  end  and  side."  *  In  the  church  therejs  the  half  of  a  stone 
coffin, — the  other  half  is  on  the  Island  of  May.  It  is  reported  to  be 
the  coffin  of  St  Adrian,  who  had  a  monastery  on  the  isle  just 
mentioned,  and  is  said  to  have  been  killed  during  an  incursion  of 
the  Danes.  There  is  no  certainty,  however,  that  the  tradition  is 
correct. 

III. — Population. 
The  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  parish  does  not  seem  to 
be  so  great  as  it  was  in  ancient  times.    Like  most  of  the  other 
towns  on  the  east  coast  of  Fife,  the  burgh,  since  the  Union,  has 
fallen  greatly  into  decay,  and  the  population  appears  also  to  have 
decreased,  in  consequence  of  the  losses  sustained  in  the  civil  wars 
during  the  reign  of  Charles  I.    The  people,  in  general,  were  zea- 
lous Covenanters ;  and  many  of  them  fell  in  the  battle  of  Kilsyth. 
Besides  the  disaster  in  the  temporary  failures  of  their  fishing,  An- 
struther  shared  the  fate  of  its  neighbours  about  the  year  1670,  by 
an  inundation  of  the  sea,  which  destroyed  or  choked  up  the  har- 
bour, washed  away  the  bulwarks,  and  rendered  many  of  the  houses 
unsafe  to  dwell  in.    An  inundation  of  a  similar  kind  happened 
about  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  when  nearly  a  third  of 
the  town  seems  to  have  been  swept  away.    A  long  street,  called 
the  Fore  Street,  was  totally  destroyed.    Scarce  a  vestige  of  it  re- 
mains.   The  rock  on  which  the  town-house  once  stood  is  covered 
by  the  sea  every  spring  tide,  when  it  also  washes  the  street  where 
the  principal  houses  of  the  burgh  were  situated.    By  these  means 
the  town  has  been  greatly  reduced,  and  the  baptisms,  which  about 
200  years  ago,  as  appears  from  the  session  records,  were  from 
twenty  to  thirty  a  year,  are  at  present  very  few  in  number.  Now, 
however,  the  scale  seems  to  have  turned;  and  not  from  any 
outward  circumstances,  but  from  the  natural  tendency  of  the 
population  to  increase,  a  slow  but  gradual  advance  in  numbers  is 
taking  place.  . 

The  population  in  time  of  first  Statistical  Account,       -  870 
^  ^  1811,  -  -  .         -  405 

1831,       ....  430 

'  Last  Statistical  Account. 
4 


ANSTRUTHEll  WESTER. 


621 


Males,             -          -          .          -          -  -  191 

Females,                           -          -          .  -  239 

Number  of  families,        -        -           ...  .  105 

Of  these  employed  in  agriculturu,                -  -  2] 

in  trade  and  manufactures,  -  28 

Other  families,          .....  56 

Males  above  twenty  years,          -          -          -  -  97 

Of  these  there  are  land  occupiers  having  servants,  3 

Do.  having  no  servants,            .          .          _  .  2 

Labourers,  20 

Tradesmen  (all  weavers,)          -          .          .  _  g 

Retail  and  handicraft,          -          .            -  -  34 

Clergy,  clerks,  professional  educated  men  and  capitalists,  5 

Labourers  not  agricultural,              -              _  .7 

All  other  males  of  twenty  years,              -  -  I8 

Female  servants,          -             .              .  _  18 

Average  of  births  about                  -                 .  5  or  6 

marriages,              -              .  _  ^ 

No  register  of  deaths  is  kept. 

Occupations  of  the  Traders  and  Handicraftsmen.—BXacksmiih 
1  ;  slater,  1 ;  masons,  6 ;  carpenters,  8 ;  sawyers,  4 ;  linen-dra- 
per, 1  ;  fish-dealer,  1  ;  millers,  2 ;  inn-keeper,  "l  ;  shoemakers,  6  ; 
shop-keepers,  3 ;  weavers,  8.    Inhabited  houses,  62  ;  building',  1  • 
houses  uninhabited,  3.  '  ' 

Lord  William  K.  Douglas,  brother  of  the  present  Marquis  of 
Queensberry,  is  the  only  person  of  noble  rank  residing  in  the  pa- 
rish;  but  almost  all  the  other  heritors  have  land  to""  the  yearly 
value  of  L.  50  and  upwards. 

The  number  of  families  being  105,  we  have,  making  allowance 
for  those  who  have  no  children  or  are  unmarried,  about  four  as  the 
average  number  of  children  in  each  family. 

Character,  Sfc.  of  the  People,— The  inhabitants  of  the  town  and 
parish  resemble  very  much  in  character  those  of  the  other  villages 
on  the  east  coast.  Judging  from  the  session  records  of  former  pe- 
riods, there  must  be  a  great  improvement  in  point  of  morals.  We 
may  not  witness  the  same  appearance  of  zeal  which  entitled  their 
forefathers  to  the  appellation  of  the  «  Whigs  of  Fife but  it 
would  be  wrong  not  to  admit  that  much  attention  is  paid  to  out- 
ward propriety  of  conduct,  and  that  a  regular  and  becoming  at- 
tendance  is  given  to  the  ordinances  of  religion.  Habits  of  clean- 
liness are  on  the  increase.  Altogether,  the  people  enjoy,  in  a  rea- 
sonable degree,  the  comforts  and  advantages  of  society  ;  and  are, 
or,  at  least,  before  new  notions  were  put  into  their  heads,  were,  con- 
tented with  their  situation  and  circumstances. 

.    .  IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture — The  parish  contains  only  about  600  acres.  Al- 
most the  whole  of  it  is  arable.    Near  the  sea,  the  soil  is  either  a 


622 


FIFESHIIIE. 


black  loam  or  a  light  sand  mixed  with  shells,  both  of  which,  though 
shallow,  are  very  fertile.  In  the  higher  grounds,  there  is  some 
light  soil,  but  the  greater  part  of  it  is  a  deep  clay,  which  yields 
considerable  crops  in  favourable  weather.  About  25  acres  are  co- 
vered with  wood. 

Rent  of  Land.— In  the  landward  part  of  the  parish,  the  rent 
varies  from  L.  2  to  L.  3  per  acre  ;  but  the  Burgh  acres,  or  those 
lying  near  the  town,  are  let  at  a  much  higher  rate.  Some  of  them 
have  been  held  on  lease  for  seven  years  at  L.  8  per  Scotch  acre, 
so  that  the  lessee  of  an  acre,  alongst  with  a  house  and  yard  at  L.  2, 
is  duly  qualified  to  be  a  registered  elector.  On  these  lands,  five 
imperial  quarters  of  barley  have  been  raised  from  half  an  acre  ; 
and  upon  one  acre,  there  have  been  produced  ten  tons  of  carrots, 
which  are  worth  about  L.  3,  lOs.  per  ton.  The  average  rent  may 
be  L.  3,  10s.  per  acre. 

Rent  of  grazing  a  cow  or  ox  per  annum,  L.  3. 

Wacfes.— Wages  of  farm-servants  for  the  year,  when  boarded  in 
the  house,  L.  11.  If  they  happen  to  be  married  men,  the  same 
wages  are  given,  together  with  a  house,  six  bolls  and  a  half  of  oat- 
meal, a  Scotch  pint  of  milk  per  day,  in  addition  to  which  they 
have  half  a  boll  of  potatoes  planted.  Day  labourers  receive  m 
summer  Is.  6d.  per  day,  in  harvest  more,  and  in  winter  Is.  2d.  or 
Is.  4d.    Female  servants  have  L.  6  a  year,  with  board. 

Leases,  c^c— The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years, 
—a  term  which  seems  to  be  considered  as  one  of  the  most  ad- 
vantageous both  for  landlord  and  tenant.  The  houses  of  the  far- 
mers and  the  steadings  are  all  that  could  be  wished.  The  com- 
mon breed  of  cattle  reared  in  the  neighbourhood  is  the  Fife. 

Fisheries.-The  fish  frequenting  this  part  of  the  coast  are  cod, 
ling,  turbot,  halibut,  haddocks,  skate,  flounders,  lobsters,  crabs, 
herrings,  and  occasionally  mackarel.  Many  thousands  of  dog-hsh 
are  at  times  driven  on  shore  by  storms,  and  carried  away  for  ma- 
nure. In  the  former  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish,  it  is  men- 
tioned, that  lobsters  were  the  only  fish  sent  from  this  neighbour- 
hood to  the  London  market.  Now,  however,  great  quantities 
of  salted  cod  are  sent  thither;  also  smoked,  or,  as  t^^ey  are 
called,  Finnan  haddocks,  together  with  abundance  of  fresh  fash, 
are  daily,  in  their  seasons,  transported  to  Edinburgh,  Glasgow, 
Cupar,  &c.  from  the  adjoining  towns  of  Cellardyke,  Easter  Anstru- 
ther,  and  Pittenweem,  as  will  be  more  particularly  mentioned  in 
the  accounts  of  these  parishes.    Last  year,  a  greater  quantity  ot 


ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


623 


herrings  were  taken  on  this  coast  than  at  any  other  fishing  station 
in  Scotland. 

Anstruther  Wester  has  no  direct  share  in  this  profitable  traffic; 
the  harbour  not  admitting  ships  of  any  burden,  and  being  incon- 
venient even  for  boats.  So  that  none  now  belong  to  it  except  two 
or  three  of  small  dimensions,  kept  for  the  summer  amusement  of 
then-  owners.  There  are  no  fishermen  in  this  parish,  and  although 
one  of  the  fish-curers,  who  carries  on  a  pretty  extensive  trade,  re- 
sides and  is  a  burgess  in  the  burgh,  yet  his  curing  and  drying  houses 
are  situated  in  Anstruther  Easter. 

While  on  this  subject,  a  fish-pond  here  may  be  mentioned  as  a 
curiosity.    It  is  of  considerable  length  and  breadth,  and  14  feet 
in  depth,  and  was  dug  out  of  the  solid  rock  a  few  years  ago,  at 
no  little  trouble  and  expense,  by  the  late  Captain  James  Black, 
R.  N.  in  the  garden  of  his  marine  villa.    The  pond  communicates 
with  the  sea  by  means  of  a  small  passage  bored  through  the  rock, 
so  that  its  water  rises  and  falls  with  the  tide.    It  is  stocked  with 
cod,  turbot,  and  flounders ;  a  few  lobsters  and  crabs  were  also  in- 
troduced, but  these  carried  on  such  a  cruel  and  incessant  warfare 
against  their  more  defenceless  neighbours  in  the  pond,  that  the 
captain  was  obliged  to  exterminate  them.    The  fish  are  very  tame, 
and  flock  toward  the  person  who  feeds  them,  like  poultry  in  a  barn- 
yard.   Of  course,  they  are  too  great  favourites  to  be  caught  for 
gracing  the  table ;  but  they  may  be  useful  in  giving  us  more  in- 
sight into  the  nature  and  habits  of  the  finny  tribe. 

Produce.— It  is  difficult  to  get  any  accurate  knowledge  of  the 
amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in  the  parish,  but  as  nearly  as  that 
can  be  ascertained,  it  may  be  as  follows : 

^Tn1l\°'abom  !'"'^''  ^""^  °'        ^  °f  domestic 

°for°foor'  ""''^'Ses,  carrots,  and  other  plants  cultivated  in  the  fields^"  ^^^^ 

Ofhay!"  1630 
Which,  with  some  other  miscellaneous  produce,  may 'amount  in  all"  to  about  mO 

^- — Parochial  Economy. 
^"7'^-An^truther  Wester  is  a  royal  burgh,  and,  before  the 
time  of  the  Reform  Bill,  used  to  join  with  Pittenweem,  Anstruther 
faster,  Kilrenny,  and  Crail,  in  sending  a  Member  to  Parliament. 
Uriginally  it  was  erected  into  a  burgh  of  barony  in  1554,  but  holds 

1  Jt^'T-''^  '"^"'P°''^*^°"'      ^  '•oyal  burgh,  from  James  VI.  in 
15«7.   It  is  governed  by  a  chief  magistrate,  two  bailies,  town-clerk, 
treasurer,  and  eleven  councillors,  and  has  a  revenue  of  about  L.  70 
\  per  annum,  which  arises  chiefly  from  land.    There  are  also  five  or 


G24 


FIFESHIKE. 


six  acres  of  town's  common,  which  is  occupied  in  summer  as  pas- 
turage for  horses  and  cows  belonging  to  the  inhabitants,  at  the 
rate'of  Is.  8d.  of  grass-mail  for  each  beast  per  night.  Owing  to 
the  smallness  of  the  population,  it  is  one  of  those  burghs  which 
have  not,  as  yet,  been  affected  by  the  late  Reform  Bill.  The 
municipal  authorities  still  continue  to  be  appointed  according  to 
the  old  system,  under  which,  notwithstanding  all  its  alleged  cor- 
ruption and  abuse,  the  corporation  lands  have  been  preserved 
entire ;  not  an  acre  having  been  alienated  since  the  issuing  of  the 
royal  grant  in  its  favour,  upwards  of  250  years  ago. 

The  population  of  the  burgh  is  almost  co-extensive  with  that  of 
the  parish.    There  cannot  be  above  thirty  or  forty  people  in  the 
country.    At  one  time,  a  considerable  trade  appears  to  have  flou- 
rished in  Anstruther  Wester.    But  from  the  causes  already  alluded 
to,  it  has  entirely  disappeared.    No  vessels  or  even  fishing-boats 
belong  to  the  place,— the  only  business  of  any  kind  earned  on 
being  that  which  is  necessary  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  hmited 
population.    No  regular  police  is  required ;  there  are,  however, 
twelve  constables  who  may  be  called  out  on  any  emergency.  For- 
tunately, their  services  are  seldom  needed.    In  the  former  Statis- 
tical Account,  it  is  stated,  that  since  the  battle  of  Kilsyth  the 
people  have  a  strong  aversion  to  a  military  life,— that,  in  the  course 
of  twenty-one  years,  only  one  instance  of  a  person  enlisting  had 
occurred— that  there  had  not  been  a  suspicion  of  murder  for  fifty 
years— that  one  instance  of  suicide  had  taken  place  about  the  year 
1744— and  that  no  person  had  been  tried  before  a  criminal  court 
since  1732.    The  writer  is  unable  to  say  whether  the  same  state 
of  things  continues;  but  he  has  reason  to  believe,  that,  notwith- 
standing the  altered  circumstances  of  the  country,  instances  similar 
to  the  foregoing  are  still  extremely  rare. 

Marhet-Toton.— burgh  itself  is  not  a  market-town,  but  a 
weekly  market  is  held  every  Saturday  in  Anstruther  Easter,  which 
is  united  to  it  by  a  handsome  bridge  over  the  Dreel  Burn. 

Means  of  Communication.— The  post-office  is  also  placed  in 
Anstruther  Easter.  Letters  arrive  and  depart  daily,  though,  from 
the  frequent  changes  which  have  lately  taken  place,  the  hours  are 
very  uncertain.  The  length  of  the  turnpike  roads  m  the  parish  is 
only  about  half  a  mile,  alongst  which  the  Balcarres  coach  to  Edin- 
burgh runs  thrice  a  week,  returning  on  the  alternate  days.  An 
omnibus  also  leaves  every  morning  for  Largo,  and  returns  on  the 
arrival  of  the  steam-boat  from  Newhaven.    Carriers  travel  regu- 


ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


615 


larly  to  Edinburgh,  and  to  all  the  neighbouring  towns  of  any  con- 
sequence in  Fife,  such  as  Cupar,  St  Andrews.  In  summer  there 
is  much  communication  carried  on  by  steam-boats.  Those  to  and 
from  Dundee,  Aberdeen,  and  Montrose,  pass  and  repass  daily  to 
Newhaven,  so  that  a  journey,  which,  less  than  thirty  years  ago,  oc- 
cupied a  whole  day,  or  sometimes  two  or  three,  and  could  only  be 
accomplished  at  a  great  expense,  is  now  performed  in  two  hours 
and*a  half,  and  for  a  very  trifling  sum. 

The  fences  are  commonly  dry  stone  dikes,  or,  as  they  are  called. 
Galloway  dikes.  In  some  places,  we  find  hedges ;  but  no  great 
attention  seems  to  be  paid  to  either. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  very  conveniently  situated 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  population,  being  built  in  the  burgh, 
where  the  bulk  of  the  people  reside.  It  may  be  nearly  two 
miles  from  the  north-west  corner  of  the  parish,  but  there  is  no  in- 
habited house  so  remote  as  that.  There  does  not  appear  to  be  any 
record  as  to  the  period  when  it  was  built ;  but,  from  the  style  of  its 
architecture,  it  must  have  existed  a  considerable  time  previous  to 
the  Reformation.  It  was  new  roofed  in  1761,  and  has  been  fre- 
quently repaired  at  considerable  expense  by  the  heritors.  At  pre- 
sent, it  is  in  tolerable  order.  From  its  situation  almost  on  the  sea 
shore,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Dreel,  it  is  liable  to  be  damp  and 
cold  in  winter  ;  a  stove,  however,  has  just  been  erected  in  it,  which 
will  add  much  to  its  comfort.  The  number  of  seats  is  fully  beyond 
that  required  by  law,  and  they  afford  accommodation  for  all  the 
parishioners  who  are  able  to  attend  public  worship.  Part  of  them 
belong  to  the  kirk-session.  These  are  let  at  sixpence  a  sitting, 
but  even  that  ^mall  rent  is  very  seldom  demanded.  The  last  time 
it  was  so,  was  during  the  prevalence  of  cholera,  and  the  proceeds 
were  handed  over  to  the  Board  of  Health.  Almost  all  of  the  he- 
ritors give  seats  to  their  tenants  and  others.  A  very  commodious 
manse,  and  what  offices  were  considered  necessary,  were  built  for 
the  late  incumbent  in  1835.  The  extent  of  the  glebe  is  four  acres, 
including  fences.  It  was  lately  let  at  L.  26  per  annum  ;  and,  con- 
sidering its  situation  and  the  rent  of  the  land  around  it,  may  still 
be  worth  that  sum.  There  is  no  grass  glebe,  nor  any  allowance 
in  lieu  of  it.  The  late  incumbent,  conceiving  that  he  had  a  right 
to  one,  was  at  a  very  considerable  expense  in  endeavouring  to  esta- 
blish his  claim ;  but  failed  before  the  Court  of  Session.  All  along, 
however,  he  had  the  impression  that  his  cause  was  just,  and  that,  if 


626 


FIFESHIRE. 


he  had  carried  it  by  appeal  to  the  House  of  Lords,  he  would  have 
been  successful. 

The  stipend  consists,  1st,  of  the  whole  teinds  of  the  parish,  viz. 
63  bolls,  3  firlots,  3^  lippies  of  bear  ;  20  bolls  of  oats  ;  26  bolls, 
3  firlots,  2  pecks,  H  lippie  of  oatmeal ;  3  firlots,  1  peck,  ^  lippie 
of  beans  ;  and  L.  18,  16s.  of  money,  which,  on  the  average  of  the 
last  five  years,  and  deducting  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements, 
amounts  to  L.  103,  13s.  lid,;  2d,  an  allowance  granted  by  Ex- 
chequer of  L.24,  is.  lOd. ;  Sd,  the  sum  of  L.  16,  13s.  4d.  paid 
out  of  the  Bishops'  rents.    This  last  sum,  however,  was  lately 
withdrawn  by  Her  Majesty's  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Fo- 
rests ;  but  in  place  of  it  the  late  incumbent  had  just  obtained,  un- 
der the  small  Stipend  Act,  an  addition  equal  in  amount  from  the 
Exchequer.    With  regard  also  to  the  sum  paid  out  of  the  Bishop's 
rents,  his  legal  advisers  were  of  opinion  that  it  ought  not,  at  any 
time,  to  have  been  taken  into  account  in  allocating  his  stipend, 
and  that  Her  Majesty's  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Forests  were 
exceeding  their  powers  in  depriving  him  of  it,  he  having  himself 
enjoyed  it  for  upwards  of  thirty  years,  and  his  predecessors,  at  all 
events,  since  the  date  of  the  Union.  "  But,"  he  adds  in  his  com- 
munication to  the  Commissioners  of  Religious  Instruction  pathe- 
tically, and  considering  what  has  since  occurred  almost  propheti- 
cally, "  it  may  be  prudent  for  a  man  at  my  time  of  hfe,  with  such 
a  stipend  and  a  family  to  provide  for,  to  suffer  patiently,  rather  than 
attempt  going  to  law  with  Her  Majesty's  Commissioners  of  Woods 
and  Forests."    It  is  possible  that  his  successor  may  feel  himself 
justified  in  trying  the  question. 

The  number  of  Dissenters  in  the  parish  is  just  15,  in  addition  to 
4  Episcopalians.  Almost  all  the  families,  and  almost  all  the  indivi- 
duals are  connected  with  the  Establishment ;  and,  in  proportion  to 
the  population,  divine  service  at  the  church  is  generally  well  attend- 
ed. The  number  of  communicants  borders  upon  200.  A  Bible  and 
Missionary  Society  exists  in  the  parish.  Average  amount  of  con- 
tributions for  religious  and  charitable  purposes  L.  6.  There  was 
lately  a  collection,  amounting  to  L.  2,  for  Church  Extension,  and 
L.  7,  Is.  6d.  for  the  Colonial  Churches.  These,  perhaps,  are  fully 
the  average  of  what  might  be  expected  in  any  one  year. 

Education. — The  parochial  school  is  the  only  one  in  the  parish. 
In  it  the  branches  taught  are,  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  geo- 
graphy, Latin,  French,  algebra,  pure  and  practical  mathematics. 
The  schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary  of  L.  34,  4s.  4d.  In 

3 


ANSTRUTHER  WESTER. 


627 


1833,  when  answers  were  returned  to  the  Lord  Advocate's  queries 
on  the  subject  of  education,  the  average  of  fees  for  the  four  pre- 
ceding years  was  L.  74,  16s.  9d.,  and  in  addition  the  teacher  en- 
joys L.  4,  being  the  interest  of  L.  100  left  for  the  behoof  of  the 
school.  It  may  be  doubted,  whether  the  average  of  the  fees  is 
quite  so  high  at  present.  The  schoolmaster,  who  was  only  lately 
elected,  has  not  furnished  me  with  the  means  of  ascertaining,  and 
perhaps  could  not  very  well  tell ;  but  I  should  think,  that  it  could 
not  be  greatly  reduced.  The  general  expense  of  education  should, 
I  think,  be  from  10s.  to  L.  1,  5s.  per  annum,  according  to  the  age 
or  attainments  of  the  children.  There  do  not  appear  to  be  any  of 
the  young  betwixt  six  and  fifteen  years  of  age  who  cannot  read  or 
write,  or  who  are  not  learning  to  do  so,  neither  are  there  any  of 
those  upwards  of  fifteen  who  cannot  read.  Two  do  so  very  imper- 
fectly. There  are  about  twenty-five  grown  up  people,  most  aged 
females,  who  have  not  been  taught  to  write.  The  people,  in  ge- 
neral, are  fully  alive  to  the  benefits  of  education ;  and  even  the 
very  poorest  will  make  considerable  exertions  to  procure  it  for  their 
children. 

A  bursary  connected  with  the  United  College  of  St  Andrews, 
was  endowed  by  the  late  Bailie  William  Thomson,  a  former  chief 
magistrate  of  the  burgh,  in  favour  of  some  young  man  belonging 
to  the  parish.  The  value  of  the  land  mortified  by  the  benevolent 
donor  was  about  L.  700 ;  but  it  was  reduced  to  L.  600  by  an  un- 
fortunate law-suit.  The  magistrates  and  minister  are  patrons. 
The  endowment  may  occasionally  be  of  use  to  young  men  of  me- 
rit; but  it  may  also  encourage  some  to  become  students  before  they 
are  qualified  to  profit  by  the  education  which  a  college  imparts. 

The  following  short  account  of  an  association  which  exists 
among  the  parochial  schoolmasters  in  the  East  of  Fife,  may  be  of 
sufficient  importance  to  be  noticed  in  the  Statistical  Account. — 
The  association  was  begun  in  1818,  under  the  designation  of 
"  The  East  of  Fife  Educational  Society."  At  present,  it  em- 
braces, as  members,  all  the  schoolmasters  along  the  coast  from 
Elie  to  Kingsbarns.  They  meet  once  a-month  at  each  others 
houses  in  rotation,  and  regular  minutes  are  kept  of  the  proceed- 
ings. The  object  of  the  association  is  for  the  mutual  improve- 
ment of  the  members,  in  matters  connected  with  education.  They 
are  in  possession  of  a  small  and  select  library,  consisting  of  works 
on  education,  science,  &c.  and  they  have  also  a  set  of  chemical 
and  other  apparatus,  both  of  which  are  receiving  additions  from 


628  FIFKSHIRE. 

lime  to  time.  At  each  meeting  of  the  society,  a  subject  is  appoint- 
ed for  discussion  at  next  meeting.  An  essay  is  occasionally  read, 
though  the  stated  production  of  one  is  not  imperative  on  the  mem- 
bers. They  are,  however,  expected  to  bring  before  the  meet- 
ing any  information  or  suggestion  connected  with  the  profession, 
which  they  may  have  acquired  by  reading  or  observation ;  and  to 
give  an  account  of  the  schools  which  they  may  have  visited,  plans 
of  teaching,  and  improvements  they  may  have  observed.  Such 
communications  lead  to  many  an  interesting  and  useful  conversa- 
tion,— keep  the  members  alive  to  the  improvements  that  are  going 
on  in  education, — stimulate  their  diligence,  and  prevent  them  from 
falling  behind  the  time,  in  the  art  of  communicating  instruction. 

At  these  meetings,  the  "  brethren"  really  meet  as  brothers,  and 
an  unbroken  course  of  good  feeling  is  kept  up  amongst  them. 

I  believe  the  East  of  Fife  Educational  Society  is  unique  in  its 
kind ;  but  it  might  not,  perhaps,  be  unworthy  the  consideration  of 
the  schoolmasters  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  whether  something 
of  the  same  kind  ought  not  to  be  originated  among  them. 

Charitable  Institutions.— Two  friendly  societies  are  in  existence, 
called  the  Mortcloth  and  Benefit  Society,  and  the  Sea  Box.  The 
former  has  existed  since  1670,  but  was  re-established  in  1819. 
Its  members  pay  Is.  6d.  quarterly,  or  6s.  a  year.  In  case  of  sickness, 
any  of  the  members  is  entitled  to  5s.  weekly  for  nine  weeks  during  the 
year,  and  no  longer.  When  a  member  dies,  each  of  the  survivors  is 
bound  to  pay  6d.  to  the  treasurer,  who  gives  the  amount  to  the 
widow  or  nearest  relation  of  the  deceased,  as  funeral  money ;  and 
each  widow  is  entitled  to  an  annual  pension  of  L.  2,  12s.,  paid 
quarterly  or  yearly,  as  she  may  require.  The  writer  is  uncertain 
whether  the  Sea  Box  is  a  separate  society,  or  whether  it  is  con- 
nected with  that  of  Anstruther  Easter.  Both  of  them,  however, 
are  useful  in  supplying  the  wants  of  their  members,  and  in  keeping 
up  a  spirit  of  independence,  by  preventing  them  from  sinking  down 
to  the  grade  of  paupers. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  number  of  the  poor  on  the 
roll  is  six;  but  there  are  others  who  receive  occasional  relief. 
None  get  more  than  10s.  per  month,  and  none  less  than  4s.  The 
average  may  thus  be  about  7s.  The  sum  collected  yearly  at  the 
church  door  amounts  to  about  L.  9.  This,  however,  is  exclusive 
of  what  is  collected  upon  sacramental  and  other  extraordinary  oc- 
casions, which  is  applied  to  the  occasional  relief  of  individuals  in 
indio-ent  circumstances,  Avho  either  do  not  require  or  do  not  choose 


ANSTUUTIIER  WESTER. 


G29 


to  be  put  on  the  list  of  regular  weekly  pensioners.  Besides  the 
collections,  however,  the  session  are  in  possession  of  considerable 
funds  derived  from  the  rent  of  land  bequeathed  for  the  behoof  of 
the  poor,  which  enables  them  easily  to  meet  all  the  demands  made 
upon  their  charity.  Several  tons  of  coal  are  also  yearly  distribut- 
ed among  the  indigent.  The  late  incumbent,  who  had  great 
sensibility,  was  particularly  attentive  to  the  poor;  and  I  have 
been  informed  that  intimation  has  sometimes  been  made  from 
the  pulpit,  that,  if  any  were  in  want,  they  had  nothing  to  do 
but  apply  to  the  session  for  relief.  It  seems  to  be  the  general 
opinion  in  this  quarter,  that  there  is  now  less  disposition  among  the 
poor  to  refrain  from  seeking  parochial  relief.  The  spirit  of  inde- 
pendence appears  to  be  wearing  out  apace,  and  many,  so  far  from 
considering  it  a  degradation  to  be  pensioners  on  the  poor  funds, 
think  that  they  have  a  right  to  them,  and  cannot  get  enough. 
There  are,  however,  some  honourable  exceptions  to  the  remark. 

Fuel. — The  fuel  commonly  used  is  coal — either  obtained 
in  the  neighbourhood,  or  brought  by  sea  from  Newcastle. 
Scotch  coal  may  cost  6s.  or  7s.  a  ton  at  the  pit  mouth — and 
English  from  15s.  6d.  to  17s.  when  delivered  from  the  ship.  To 
those  who  can  afford  the  inlay,  the  latter  will  be  found  the  cheap- 
est and  the  most  comfortable.  But  Scotch  coal  is  commonly 
preferred  for  the  kitchen. 

Fairs,  Inns,  5fc. — No  fair  is  held  in  the  burgh  ;  but  there  is  one> 
inn, — quite  enough  for  the  population,  and  the  effects  of  which  are 
said  to  be  very  pernicious. 

MlSCELLAlSTEOUS  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  burgh  of  Anstruther  Wester  has  undergone  considerable 
improvements  within  the  last  few  years.  Across  the  burn  which 
separates  it  from  Anstruther  Easter,  a  bridge  was  erected  at  the 
mutual  expense  of  the  two  burghs  in  1831.  Before  that  period,  the 
only  communication  betwixt  them  for  carriages  was  by  a  ford,  at  all 
times  inconvenient,  and  sometimes  impassable.  Besides  this,  there 
may  also  be  noticed,  the  widening  of  the  main  street  at  the  West 
Port,  from  13  to  30  feet— its  Macadamization,— and  the  formation 
of  a  neat  footway  or  pavement,  at  an  expense  of  L.  450,  contributed 
equally  by  the  burgh  and  county.  The  town  is  also  now  supplied 
with  water,  the  streets  lighted,  and  common  sewers  and  other  con- 
veniences constructed,  whereby  the  public  thoroughfares  and  lanes 
are  kept  in  a  clean  and  orderly  state.  A  new  manse  and  offices 
for  the  clergyman,  and  a  handsome  school  and  dwelling-house  for 


630 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  schoolmaster,  have  likewise  been  lately  erected.  The  landward 
part  of  the  parish  has  in  like  manner  partaken  of  the  general  im- 
provement. Notwithstanding  the  late  depression  in  all  kinds  of  pro- 
duce, agriculture  is  carried  on  with  spirit,  and  not  without  profit  to 
the  farmer.  At  the  date  of  the  last  account,  the  rent  of  land  vari- 
ed from  L.  1,  Is.  to  L.  1,  10s.  per  acre  :  now  it  is  from  L.  2  to  L.  3, 
10s.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  breeding  and  feeding  of  cattle  : 
and  this  is  sometimes  found  to  be  one  of  the  most  profitable  modes  in 
which  the  farmer  can  employ  his  capital.  Draining,  too,  is  carried  on 
to  a  considerable  extent ;  and  although  the  parish  is  small  and  not 
naturally  very  fertile,  the  produce  of  the  land  bears  a  full  proportion 
to  the  surrounding  district.  In  some  respects,  too,  the  morals 
have  undergone  a  change  for  the  better.  Hard  drinking,  which 
was  formerly  so  common,  is  never  heard  of  in  any  family,  having 
the  least  pretensions  to  gentility,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the 
example  of  their  superiors  will  not  be  without  effect  on  the  lower 
orders,  among  whom  it  is  still  too  generally  practised. 

The  writer  cannot  conclude  without  adverting  to  the  circum- 
stance which  has  imposed  on  him  the  task  of  drawing  up  the  fore- 
going account, — the  death  of  his  much  esteemed  and  lamented 
friend,  Dr  Carstairs,  late  minister  of  the  parish.  In  him,  his  family, 
the  church,  and  society  at  large,  have  lost  a  very  valuable  mem- 
ber. All  the  duties,  whether  of  his  public  or  his  private  sta- 
tion, he  discharged  with  exemplary  fidelity  and  zeal ;  and  it  has 
seldom  been  our  lot  to  see  any  one  more  deeply  or  sincerely  re- 
gretted. He  will  long  live  iri  the  memory  of  all  that  shared  in  his 
friendship,  or  with  whom  he  was  in  any  way  connected. 

November  1838. 


PARISH  OF  CREICH. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV,  ALEXANDER  LAWSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  the  parish  has  been  written  in  these  dif- 
ferent ways,  Creigh,  Creich,  Creche,  Crich,  and  Ci'iech  ;  but  in  the 
Session  records,  is  almost  invariably  written  Cr'eich.  The  parish 
very  probably  received  this  appellation  from  the  farm  of  Creich, 
in  the  centre  of  which  the  old  church  and  the  burying-ground  are 
situated,  and  where  the  manse  also  was  at  one  time  placed.  The 
word  is  generally  thought  to  be  derived  from  the  Gaelic  word 
Craigich,  signifying  rocky  or  craggy  ground, —  a  description  appli- 
cable to  the  appearance  of  the  parish,  especially  of  the  grounds  of 
the  farm  of  Creich. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  parish  is  of  an  irregular  figure. 
It  extends  in  length  from  north  to  south  about  3  miles,  and 
varies  from  1  mile  to  nearly  2  miles  in  breadth,  the  greatest 
breadth  being  in  the  middle,  and  the  least  in  the  north.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parish  of  Flisk  ;  on  the  south,  by  the 
parishes  of  Moonzie  and  Monimail ;  on  the  east,  by  those  of  Kilma- 
ny  and  Balmerino ;  and  on  the  west,  by  those  of  Abdie  and  Dunbog. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  parish  presents  great  inequali- 
ties of  surface.  It  consists  of  hills,  which  are  part  of  the  Ochil 
range,  of  various  sizes  and  forms,  the  highest  not  appearing  to  ex- 
ceed 550  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Of  these,  some  are  cul- 
tivated to  the  top,  others  are  partly  covered  with  thriving  planta- 
tions, which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  country  ; 
while  several  still  exhibit  a  rocky  and  rugged  aspect,  and  produce 
little  else  than  heath  and  furze.  Were  these  last  tastefully  and 
judiciously  planted  with  varieties  of  wood,  the  ground,  which  now 
generally  affords  but  a  scanty  supply  of  pasture,  would  be  more 
profitably  occupied,  the  climate  would  be  improved,  and  few  places 
would  display  more  varied  and  beautiful  scenery.  The  sides  of 
most  of  the  hilh  and  the  lower  grounds  are  fertile  and  well  cul- 


632 


FIFESHIRE. 


tivated.  The  soil  of  the  former  is  a  thin  sharp  gravelly  loam, 
that  of  the  latter  is  deeper,  and  is  in  some  places  moss,  in  others 
clay,  but  in  general  a  black  loam. 

Small  streams  run  through  the  intervening  valleys,  and,  uniting 
near  to  the  village  of  Luthrie,  form  the  Motray,  a  rivulet  which, 
continuing  its  course  through  the  parishes  of  Kilmany  and  Leu- 
chars,  falls  into  the  Eden  at  the  inner  bridge. 

From  the  summit  of  the  Black  Craig,  and  also  from  that  of  the 
Green  Craig,  both  of  which  hills  are  near  to  the  ruins  of  the  old 
church,  may  be  had  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  delighful  views 
in  Scotland,  comprehending  the  estuary  of  the  Tay,  the  Carse 
of  Gowrie,  so  famed  for  its  richness  and  beauty,  and  the  Sidlaw 
and  Grampian  mountains  on  the  north  ;  the  town  of  Dundee,  and 
the  fertile  country  onwards  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Arbroath  on 
the  north-east ;  and  on  the  west,  part  of  Strathearn,  the  finely  va- 
ried hills  about  Perth,  with  Benledi,  Benlawers,  &c.  in  the  distance. 

Climaie. — The  climate  is  dry  and  healthful.  In  the  lower  parts 
of  the  parish,  it  is  mild  and  pleasant,  but  on  the  higher  grounds,  it 
is  rather  cold  and  bracing.  As  aproof  of  its  salubrity,  there  are  many 
instances  of  longevity  among  the  inhabitants.  The  late  minister, 
Dr  Greenlaw,  who  had  almost  completed  the  sixtieth  year  of  his  in- 
cumbency when  he  died,  lived  to  the  age  of  ninety-fo.ir,  and  he  con- 
tinued so  vigorous  as  to  visit  his  parish  during  the  last  year  of  h^ 
life.    His  wife  attained  nearly  the  same  advanced  age. 

Geology. — I  am  indebted  to  my  friend,  Dr  Fleming  of  King's 
College,  Aberdeen,  for  the  following  account  of  the  geology  of 
the  parish.  The  rocks  of  this  parish  may  be  considered  as  con- 
stituting a  portion  of  the  trap  fonnation  of  the  Ochils,  a  hilly 
ridge  extending  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Stirling  to  Ferry- 
port-on- Craig,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tay.  The  parish  may  be 
viewed,  on  the  great  scale,  as  consisting  of  a  bed  of  amygdaloid, 
which  stretches  in  an  easterly  direction,  dipping  towards  the  south 
at  an  angle  seldom  exceeding  twenty  degrees.  The  basis  of  the 
amygdaloid  is  in  general  a  claystone,  sometimes  a  compact  felspar, 
and,  in  a  few  instances,  greenstone.  It  contains,  in  its  cells,  cal- 
careous spar,  quartz,  chlorite  and  agate  ;  the  last  mineral,  under 
the  name  of  pebble,  is  collected  for  sale  by  several  individuals  of 
the  parish,  and  specimens  of  great  size  and  beauty  have  frequent- 
ly been  obtained.  Subordinate  to  the  amygdaloid  occur  lengthen- 
ed masses  of  other  rocks,  some  of  which  may  be  regarded  as  ra- 
ther uncommon  ;  in  particular,  there  is  a  bed  of  clinkstone  tra- 


CREICH. 


G33 


versing  the  northern  extremity  of  the  parish,  of  great  value  for 
many  practical  purposes.  It  occurs  in  columnar  concretions,'  usu- 
ally termed  basaltic  pillars,  in  consequence  of  which  it  is  easily 
quarried.  It  is  readily  dressed  to  any  given  form,  splits  easily  in 
a  direction  across  the  columns,  emits  a  striking  ringing  sound, 
especially  when  in  thin  slabs,  and  is  of  a  uniformly  dark  colour. 
It  resists  the  action  of  the  weather,  constituting  an  extremely  dur- 
able building  material.  Where  it  has  suffered  by  atmospheric  in- 
fluence it  exhibits  a  laminar  or  stratified  structure,  a  circumstance 
from  which  it  is  natural  to  conclude  that  it  is  a  sedimentary  rock. 
When  used  as  road  metal  it  is  easily  broken,  being  somewhat  brit- 
tle, though  it  resists  the  bruising  effects  of  wheels,  and  is  thus  va- 
luable on  account  of  its  durability.  It  forms  the  hills  of  Craigen- 
crune,  Blackcraig,  Greencraig,  Craigsimmy,  Craiglug,  Lochy-hill, 
and  the  Blackcraig  of  Carphin, — the  same  bed  extending  west- 
ward through  the  parishes  of  Abdie  and  FUsk,  constituting  the 
heights  of  Norman's  Law  and  Glenduckie.  In  consequence  of 
this  rock  decomposing  slowly,  its  soil  is  scanty,  and  does  not  ap- 
pear so  favourable  to  vegetation  as  that  which  is  produced  by  the 
amj'gdaloid  in  which  it  is  imbedded. 

Occupying  a  similar  position  in  the  amygdaloid  masses  of  com- 
pact felspar,  may  be  observed  a  considerable  portion  of  one  of  these 
rocks,  as  exposed  to  view  at  the  north-west  side  of  Lochyhill,  con- 
stituting a  range  of  columns  apparently  underlying  the  clinksl  one  of 
which  the  hill  in  general  is  composed.  The  rock  is  more  or  less 
porphyritic,  and,  when  injured  by  atmospheric  influence,  it  splits  in 
various  directions,  forming  irregular  angular  blocks.  At  the  north 
side  of  the  Blackcraig  of  Carphin,  there  is  a  bed  of  gray  sandstone, 
which  may  be  traced  a  few  hundred  yards  at  the  base  of  the  hill, 
and  apparently  imbedded  in  the  amygdaloid,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  clinkstone.  A  quarry  was  opened  in  this  rock  a  few 
years  ago,  and  building  materials  of  considerable  value  were  ob- 
tained. The  sandstone  occurs  in  thick  beds,  with  interposed  layers 
of  slate  clay,  and  the  whole,  according  to  the  present  section,  co- 
vered with  slate  clay  or  camstone.  It  is  similar  in  its  relations  and 
character  to  a  sandstone  which  occurs  at  Birkhill,  about  two  miles 
to  the  eastward,  and  is  considered  as  the  equivalent  of  the  Kin- 
goody  stone,  so  extensively  quarried  to  the  westward  of  Dundee, 
and  on  the  north  side  of  the  estuary  of  the  Tay.  The  amygda- 
loid is  traversed  by  numerous  small  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  quartz, 
agate  and  jasper.    Veins,  however,  of  a  greater  size,  and  such  as 


0'^'*  FIFESHIUE. 

are  denominated  dikes,  may  be  observed,  though  not  in  abun- 
dance. One  vein  of  compact  felspar,  in  the  direction  of  the  dip, 
may  be  observed  at  the  Broomhill.  It  is  quarried  for  road  metal, 
being  greatly  superior  in  durability  to  the  amygdaloid  with  which 
it  is  surrounded.  Another  mass  of  felspar  traversing  the  amygda- 
loid in  a  south-easterly  direction,  on  the  Sheep  walk  hill  of  Carphin, 
mav  be  observed. 

The  greenstone  dike,  which  has  been  denominated  the  great 
Flisk  vein,  and  which  may  be  traced  from  the  neighbourhood  of 
Newburgh  on  the  west,  enters  this  parish  at  Carphin  wood.  After 
having  traversed  the  clinkstone  of  Norman's  Law,  it  passes  on  in 
an  easterly  direction  through  the  amygdaloid,  until  it  is  lost  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  new  church  of  Creich,  though  it  appears  to 
be  related  to  the  greenstone  of  Drumnod,  &c.  to  the  eastward. 

In  consequence  of  the  dip  of  the  strata  being  to  the  south,  the 
steep  sides  of  the  hills  in  the  parish  face  the  north.  From  the 
great  inequality  of  the  composition  of  the  amygdaloid,  it  has  resist- 
ed in  a  very  unequal  manner  the  decomposing  influence  of  the  at- 
mosphere, and  hence  the  surface  of  the  parish  is  exceedingly  un- 
even. The  harder  rocks  occupy  the  eminences,  and  exhibit  an 
irregular  outline,  while  the  prevailing  softer  amygdaloid  gives  to 
the  hills  composed  of  it  a  more  rounded  and  even  surface. 

The  rock  cover  or  tirring  is  in  general  derived  from  a  decom- 
position of  the  rocks,  though,  in  a  few  instances,  it  is  diluvium. 
Gravelly  diluvium  occurs,  though  in  no  great  quantity,  at  Luth- 
rie.  Clay  diluvium  forms  the  subsoil  to  the  west  of  Balyarrow 
mire.  By  the  partial  filling  of  a  valley,  and  interrupting  the  pro- 
gress of  the  natural  drainage,  this  diluvium  has  formed  by  its  de- 
position the  barrier  of  a  lake. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
Eminent  Individuals — Alexander  Henderson. — The  Rev.  Alex- 
ander Henderson,  who  acted  so  prominent  a  part  in  favour  of  Pres- 
byterianism,  during  the  reigns  of  James  the  Sixth  and  Charles  the 
First,  was  a  native  of  this'parish.  He  was  born  in  1582  or  1583,  as 
appears  from  his  monumental  inscription  in  the  Greyfriars  Church- 
yard, Edinburgh.  His  birth  is  not  inserted  in  any  of  the  registers 
of  the  parish,  in  possession  of  the  kirk-session,  as  none  of  them  ex- 
tends farther  ^back  than  1668.  In  a  minute  of  session,  however, 
of  date  5th  October  1702,  it  is  mentioned,  inter  alia,  that  "  There 
was  a  bond  of  2000  merks  secured  upon  the  lands  of  Creich,  which 
Mr  Alexander  Henderson,  late  minister  of  Luchars,  and  afterwards 


CllEICH. 


635 


of  Edinburgh,  had  mortifyd  for  the  encuragemeut  of  a  schoolmaster 
in  the  parish.  The  said  Mr  Alexander  being  born  in  the  toun  of 
Luthrie."  After  having  been  educated  at  the  University  of  St 
Andrews,  where  he  acquired  considerable  literary  reputation,  and 
where  he  became  a  Professor  and  also  Questor  of  the  Faculty  of 
Arts,  he  was  presented  by  Archbishop  Gladstanes,  about  the  year 
1612,  to  the  church  and  parish  of  Leuchars,  of  which  he  continued 
the  minister  for  many  years.  Though  at  the  period  of  his  induction 
he  was  attached  to  Episcopacy,  he  soon  embraced  and  steadily 
maintained  Presbyterian  principles. 

From  his  great  talents,  learning,  piety,  prudence,  and  integrity, 
he  obtained  a  leading  part  in  the  management  of  ecclesiastical  af- 
fairs, and  was  elected  Moderator  of  the  General  Assembly  on 
three  different  trying  occasions,  as  being  the  best  qualified  for  the 
office.  In  the  memorable  Assembly  at  Glasgow,  in  1638,  he  was 
Moderator  when  Episcopacy  was  abjured,  and  Presbyterianism  re- 
stored to  its  original  purity.  Presbyteries  were  then  directed  by 
that  Court  to  erect  a  school  in  every  landward  parish,  and  the 
plan  of  the  parish  school,  which  combines  education  with  religious 
instruction,  and  which  has  been  productive  of  the  most  important 
advantages  to  Scotland,  is  said  to  have  been  devised  by  Hender- 
son. He  was  ever  desirous  to  promote  education,  and,  as  a  proof 
of  the  encouragement  he  gave  to  it,  he  was  made  a  burgess  of 
Dundee,  in  1632,  for  his  good  services  to  the  schools  in  that  town; 
and  he  bequeathed  not  only  2000  merks  for  the  maintenance  of  a 
school  in  this  parish,  but  also  mortified  a  house,  garden,  croft,  two 
acres  of  land,  and  L.  4, 10s.  6d.  Sterhng  for  the  benefit  of  a  school- 
master in  the  parish  of  Leuchars.  At  the  Glasgow  Assembly  it 
was  agreed  to  translate  him  from  Leuchars  to  Edinburgh.  When 
one  of  the  ministers  of  that  city,  being  a  great  encourager  of  learn- 
ing, he  had  the  honour  of  being  chosen  the  first  Rector  of  the 
Edinburgh  University,  in  January  1640,  and  of  being  annually  re- 
elected Rector  till  the  time  of  his  death.  He  had,  moreover,  the 
merit  of  being  the  first  in  proposing,  and  of  having  a  considerable 
share  in  framing,  our  Confession  of  Faith,  our  Larger  and  Short- 
er Catechisms,  our  Directory  of  Church  Government  and  Wor- 
ship, and  also  of  improving  the-  metrical  version  of  the  Psalms 
which  is  still  used  in  our  Churches.  In  all  matters  of  public  im- 
portance he  was  consulted  by  the  most  influential  statesmen  ;  and 
even  King  Charles  L,  who  had  a  great  respect  for  his  character,. 


636 


FIPESHIHE. 


and  a  high  opinion  of  his  learning  and  abiHties,  knowing  his  desire 
to  have  Presbyterianism  estabhshed  throughout  the  British  domi- 
nions, entered  ^into  a  correspondence  with  him  regarding  the  com- 
parative merits  of  Episcopal  and  Presbyterian  modes  of  church 
government,  but  was  not  induced  to?igree  to  the  abolition  of  Epis. 
copacy  in  England. 

Henderson  was  a  man  of  amiable  dispositions,  naturally  averse 
to  violence,  and  desirous  to  unite  the  friends  of  true  religion  ;  and 
he  was  possessed  of  a  sound  discriminating  judgment,  which,  while 
it  led  him  to  endeavour  to  prevent  those  ruinous  excesses  to  which 
"  some  fiery  spirits"  of  his  own  party  would  have  carried  them, 
led  him  also,  where  necessary,  to  adopt  strong  measures  in  order 
to  remove  grievances,  and  to  accomplish  a  reformation. 

He  was  an  enlightened,  able,  and  temperate  defender  of  Pres- 
byterianism, and  so  continued  to  the  last  moment  of  his  life.*  His 
death,  which  took  place  in  1646,  was  deeply  regretted  as  a  great 
loss  to  the  Church  and  to  the  kingdom.  Principal  Baillie  pro- 
nounced a  high  eulogium  on  his  character  in  the  General  Assem- 
bly of  1647  :  and  the  Presbyterians,  in  general,  honoured  his  me- 
mory by  every  expression  of  their  esteem  and  regard.-f- 

Family  of  Bethune  of  Creich. —  The  first  proprietor  of  Creich 
of  the  name  of  Bethune  was  David,  second  son  of  John  Bethune, 
Laird  of  Balfour,  and  of  Marjory  Boswell,  daughter  of  the  Laird 
of  Balmuto.  He  was  highly  esteemed  by  King  James  IV.,  who 
created  him  Great  Treasurer  of  Scotland,  and  Keeper  of  the  Pa- 
lace of  Falkland.  "  He  conquest  and  acquired  the  lands  of  Creich 

from  the  Littles  or  Liddels,  in  1502."    He  was  married  to  

Duddingston,  daughter  to  the  Laird  of  Sandford  in  Fife.  Janet, 
their  elder  daughter,  from  whom  many  of  the  chief  nobility  and 
gentry  in  Scotland  are  descended,  was  married,  first,  to  Sir  Ro- 
bert Livingston  of  East  Wemyss,  and  after  his  death  to  James, 
the  first  Earl  of  Arran  of  the  Hamiltons,  and  nephew  to  King 
James  HI.  Of  the  issue  of  this  latter  marriage  was  James,  Earl 
of  Arran,  who  was  also  Duke  of  Chatelherault,  and  Regent  of 
the  kingdom.  Mary,  the  younger  daughter,  was  married  to  Lord 
Lyle. — Sir  John  Bethune,  the  second  proprietor  of  Creich,  suc- 
ceeded his  father,  and  was  married  to  Janet  Hay,  daughter  of 
John  Hay,  provost  of  Dundee,  and  niece  of  the  Laird  of  Naugh- 

*  See  Acts  of  General  Assembly,  7tli  August  ]  648. 

f  For  a  full  and  impartial  account  of  this  eminent  individual,  see  Or  Alton's 
"  Life  and  Times  of  Alexander  Henderson." 


CIIEICH. 


637 


ton,  by  whom  he  had  four  sons  and  seven  daughters.*  Janet, 
their  eldest  daughter,  who  was  married,  first,  to  the  Laird  of 
Cranstoun,  second,  to  the  Laird  of  Craigmillar,  and  third,  to  Sir 
Walter  Scott  of  Buccleuch,  Senior,  to  the  last  of  whom  she  had 
four  daughters — is  celebrated  in  the  Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel 
for  her  bold  and  adventurous  spirit,  her  great  influence,  and  for 
the  popular  belief  of  her  mysterious  endowments.  A  copy  of  a 
letter  of  her's  to  the  Queen  Regent  Mary  of  Guise  is  published  in 
the  Miscellany  of  the  Maitland  Club.  All  the  other  daughters 
of  Sir  John  Bethune  were  respectably  married.  His  eldest  son, 
David,  who  inherited  the  estate  of  Creich,  having  died  a  bachelor 
in  1539,  was  succeeded  by  his  brother,  Robert,  the  fourth  pro- 
prietor of  the  name  of  Bethune.  He  was  page  to  Queen  Mary, 
and  accompanied  her  to  France,  where  she  was  married  to  the 
Dauphin.  On  her  return  to  Scotland  in  1561,  he  was  made 
Master  of  the  Household,  Heritable  Steward  of  Fife,  and  Keeper 
of  the  Palace  of  Falkland.  He  married  a  French  lady,  Joanna 
Renwall  or  Gryssoner,  a  maid  of  honour  to  the  Queen,  by  whom 
he  had  two  sons  and  eight  daughters.  Mary,f  their  eldest  daugh- 
ter, is  well  known  as  having  been  one  of  the  Queen's  four  Maries, 
and  is  celebrated  by  Buchanan  in  his  Valentiniana  : 

Ad  Mariana  Betonam,  pridie  Regalium  Reginam  sorte  ductam. 

Regno  animus  tibi  dignus  erat,  tibi  regia  virtus  j 

Rt  poterant  formam  sceptra  decere  tuain. 

Fortuna  erubuit  sua  niunera  sola  deesse. 

Quae  tibi  nunc  plena  dat  cumulata  manu. 

Cumque  tibi  immunetn  dederit  livoris  honorem, 

Non  satis  est  tardam  visa  luisse  moram, 

Ni  Regina,  orbis  longe  dignissima  sceptre, 

Gauderet  regno  lasta  subesse  luo. 

Mr  Macdonald  of  the  Register- House  has  printed  a  copy  of  her 
contract  of  marriage  with  Alexander  Ogilvie  of  the  Boyne,  in  the 
Miscellany  of  the  Maitland  Club,  Vol.  1st.  It  is  remarkable  for 
its  being  subscribed  not  only  by  Queen  Mary  and  Henry  Darn- 
ley  as  parties,  but  by  the  Earls  of  Huntly,  Argyll,  Bothwell,  Mur- 
ray, Angus,  and  Atholl,  as  cautioners  for  the  bridegroom,  by  Ogilvie 
himself  as  Boyne,  and  by  Mary  Bethune,  many  personages  who  are 
represented  in  history  as  having  been  generally  hostile  to  one  ano- 
ther.— David  Bethune,  the  eldest  son  of  Robert,  succeeded  him 

•  "  It  is  observed  and  reported  as  a  truth,"  says  Martine,  "  that  the  race  and 
people  of  Balfour  wore  always  black,  and  not  beautiful  and  fair,  but  that  ever  after  the 
Laird  of  Creich  married  this  Janet  Hay,  the  Bethunes  of  Creich  have  ever  been  yel- 
low-haired  for  the  most  part,  and  of  beautiful  countenances."— Martin's  Genealogi- 
cal Coll.  MS.  Adv.  Lib.  ^ 

+  There  is  an  original  Portrait  of  this  Mary  Bethune  in  full-court  dress,  in  Bal- 
four  House,  m  Fife, 


638 


FIFESIIIRE. 


as  fifth  proprietor  of  Criech,  and  married  Euphan  P.  B.  Leslie, 
daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Rothes,  by  whom  he  had  an  only  child,  a 
female,  but,  being  desirous  that  the  estate  of  Creich  should  conti- 
nue to  be  possessed  only  by  those  of  the  name  of  Bethune,  he  dis- 
poned it  to  his  brother,  James,  parson  of  Roxburgh,  who  became 
in  consequence  the  sixth  proprietor.*  He  married,  first,  Helen 
Leslie,  heiress  of  Kinnaird,  and  after  her  death,  Margaret 
Wemyss,  eldest  daughter  of  David  Wemyss  of  that  ilk,  from 
whom  it  is  said  the  Earls  of  Wemyss  are  descended.  Their  eld- 
est son  and  grandson  succeeded  to  the  property  as  the  seventh  and 
eighth  proprietors.  The  latter  was  married  to  Lady  Margaret 
Cunninghame,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Glencairn  :  but  she  hav- 
ing no  family,  and  his  brother  William  having  no  male  children, 
he  disponed  the  whole  estate  of  Creich,t  being  about  80  chalders 
of  victual,  to  James  Bethune,  then  fiar  of  Balfour,  under  the  bur- 
den of  80,000  or  90,000  merks,  reserving  to  himself  the  liferent  of 
the  most  part,  and  to  his  Lady  the  liferent  of  32  chalders  of  vic- 
tual. Lament,  in  his  Diary  of  Fife,  mentions  that  this  Laird  of 
Creich,  soon  after  disponing  the  prc^perty,  died  at  his'  dwelling- 
house  at  Denbough,  on  4th  March  1660,  and  was  interred  at  Creich 
church. 

Family  ofSeton  of  Parbroath.—The  first  proprietor  of  Par- 
broath  of  the  name  of  Seton  was  John,  fourth  son  of  the  famous 
Alexander  Seton,  Governor  of  Berwick.  He  became  proprietor 
of  the  lands  of  Parbroath  by  marrying  Elizabeth  Ramsay,  heiress 
thereof.  Their  son,  Alexander,  was  father  of  Sir  Gilbert  Seton  of 
Parbroath,  from  whom  the  lineal  succession  continued  till  the  reign 
of  James  VL 

Fa7nily  of  Baillie.— The  Baillies  of  this  parish  were  descended 
from  the  frst  of  the  family  of  Baillie  of  Carphin,  in  the  upper 
ward  of  Lanarkshire.  He  was  second  son  of  Sir  William  Ba.liie 
of  Lamington,  and  of  the  eldest  daughter  and  heiress  of  the  cele- 
brated Sir  William  Wallace,  the  brave  defender  of  Scotland.^ 
The  descent  of  Baillie  of  Lamington  has  been  traced  as  far  back 
as  to  John  Baliol,  father  of  John  Baliol,  King  of  Scotland.  The 
name  was  changed  from  Baliol  to  Baillie. § 

•  «  At  this  time  the  fortune  of  Creich  tailzied  to  the  second  son  of  the  House  of 
Balfour  failine;  heirs  m.ale  of  Mr  James  Bethune."    See  Martin  s  Gm.  Col.  MbS 
i-  S  barony  of  Creich  con,prehended  the  lands  of  Dunbog,  Contrah.lls,  and 

^Tt  S^b^SS-^^'^^A^P-i^?  Nisbet,  in  his  Heraldry,  in^ms  us 
tha't  fhe  barony  of  Luthrie'  and  KinslWe  previously  belonged  to  Kinloch  of  K.nloch 
in  Collessie  parish. 

$  See  Parish  of  Gladsmuir. 


CREICH. 


639 


From  the  session  records,  it  appears  that  the  family  of  Bailhe 
were  in  possession  of  Balmeadowside  and  Parbroath  in  1668.  They 
subsequently  purchased  the  estate  of  Luthrie,  which  at  that  time 
comprehended  the  present  lands  of  Luthrie,  East  Luthrie,  and 
Carphin.  After  having  for  some  time  retained  possession  of  all  these 
different  estates,  they  sold  Parbroath  to  John,  the  second  Earl  of 
Hopetoun,  grandfather  of  George  William  Hope,  Esq.  M.  P.  the 
present  proprietor.  In  1780,  they  sold  Balmeadowside  to  D. 
Wallace,  Esq.,  and  East  Luthrie  to  Thomas  Tod,  Esq.  The  eldest 
son  of  the  former,  and  the  only  son  of  the  latter,  now  inherit  the 
respective  properties.  Carphin  was  sold  to  Miss  Halkerston  of 
Rathillet,  great  grand-aunt  to  C.  B.  Raitt,  Esq.  the  present  pro- 
prietor. 

The  late  Colonel  Alexander  Baillie  of  Luthrie,  who  was  pa- 
tron of  the  parish,  and  Barrack- Master- General  of  Scotland,  died 
without  issue  in  1814,  and  his  widow,  Mrs  Euphan  Hamilton  or 
Baillie,  who  was  daughter  and  heiress  of  Mrs  Bethia  Hamilton  of 
Wishaw,  continued  in  possession  of  the  present  estate  of  Luthrie 
till  the  17th  September  1823,  when  she  died.  A  handsome  mar- 
ble monument  is  erected  to  their  memory  in  the  new  church.  The 
estate  of  Luthrie  was,  soon  after  the  death  of  Mrs  Baillie,  sold  to 
Charles  Hill,  Esq.  whose  eldest  son  is  now  the  proprietor. 

Land-oioners,  and  the  names  of  their  properties  in  the  parish, 
with  their  valued  rents,  are  as  follows  : 

.  Land-owners.  Properties.  Valued  Rent  Scots. 

Andrew  Wallace,       .                     Balmeadowside,           .          L  475  5  5 

Charles  Hill,  Esq.             .              Luthrie,           -         .       -     '  447  9  4 

Charles  B  Raitt,  Esq.                   Carphin,  including  W.  Kinsleith,  432  4  11 
George  William  Hope  of  Ranked-  ? 

lour,  M.  P.       .            ,           i  Parbroath,           .          .          423  7  11 

David  Gillespie,  Esq.  of  Kirkton,      Creich,          ...           353  n  0 

George  Tod,  Esq.                           E.  Luthrie,          .        .            anfi  IQ  1 

John  Miller,  Esq.          .                E.  Kinsleith,            -         .         170  0  0 

James  Naime  of  Clermont,  Esq.  W.S.Skihnervie,          .          .          31  13  4 

Brunton  feus,          .          .         19  0  0 


Total  valued  rent  of  the  parish,  L.  2668    0  0 

Ministers  of  the  parish  from  the  Reformation  in  1560,  to  the 
present  time,  (see  Baxter's  Catalogue  of  Ministers  in  Synod  of  Fife.) 
Mr  Thomas  Drummond  1563.  James  Cavie,  reader,  1567. 
Mr  Robert  Paterson  1567.  Mr  Andrew  Bennet,  admitted 
February  1583-4.  Mr  John  Killoch,  vicar,  admitted  August  1585. 
Mr  ihomas  Baxter  admitted  1590.  Mr  Alexander  Strachan, 
1 604,  banished  by  King  James  1 606.  Mr  David  Kinnear,  1617. 
Mr  Andrew  Bennet,  admitted   1617,  conformed  to  presbytery 


(i40 


FIFESHIRE. 


1638,  died  1651,  Vacant  from  1651  to  1654.  Mr  John  Alex- 
ander, translated  from  Cults,  December  1654,  conformed  to  Epis- 
copacy 1662.  Mr  James  Seaton  admitted,  outed  1689  ;  vacant 
from  1689  to  1693.  Mr  John  Law  admitted  December  1693,  died, 
June  9th  1694.  Mr  David  Pitcairn,  admitted  August  27th  1695, 
transported  to  Forres  1700.  Mr  James  Henry,  admitted  1702, 
transported  to  Kinghorn  1717.  Mr  James  Bruce,  ordained  10th 
March  1719,  died  1746.  Mr  Francis  Adams,  ordained  December 
1747,  died  August  1754.  Dr  Greenlaw,  ordained  May  8th  1755, 
died  1815;  present  incumbent,  ordained  September  1815. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  date  of  the  earliest  entry  is  1668. 
Marriages  and  baptisms  appear,  with  a  few  exceptions,  to  have 
been  recorded  with  regularity  from  1668  to  the  present  time,  and 
births  have  frequently,  but  not  always,  been  inserted.  For  many 
years  past,  births  have  been  always  entered  along  with  the  bap- 
tisms. There  is  a  register  of  burials,  along  with  baptisms  and  mar- 
riages, from  1st  October  1783,  to  1st  October  1794,  after  which 
time  the  registering  of  burials  was  discontinued,  seemingly  in  con- 
sequence of  the  Government  tax  on  births,  marriages,  and  burials, 
ceasing  at  that  time  by  act  of  Parliament  to  be  uplifted.  A  regis- 
ter of  those  who  die  in  the  parish  has  been  regularly  kept  since 
1817.  The  registers  of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths,  have,  for  the 
last  twenty  years,  been  kept  according  to  a  plan  recommended  by 
the  presbytery  to  the  different  parishes  within  their  bounds.  They 
are  annually  inspected  by  the  committee  of  presbytery  appointed 
for  the  examination  of  the  schools,  and  have  uniformly  been  com- 
mended for  their  distinctness  and  accuracy. 

Antiquities. — Ancient  Circles  of  Stones. — In  the  spring  of  the 
year  1816,  while  some  workmen  were  employed  in  trenching 
a  piece  of  ground  a  little  to  the  south-west  of  the  manse,  they 
came  to  a  number  of  stones,  about  eight  or  ten  inches  below 
the  surface,  placed  in  a  regular  form.  The  part  of  the  coun- 
try in  which  these  regularly  arranged  stones  were  situated,  is 
very  uneven.  Three  ridges  of  hills,  extending  in  different  di- 
rections, terminate  on  the  west  in  Norman's  Law,  the  most  ele- 
vated ground  in  the  north  of  Fife.  On  the  south  side  of  the  most 
northern  of  these  ridges,  and  about  midway  between  the  top  of 
one  of  the  hills  and  a  small  rivulet  which  flows  along  the  strath, 
there  is  a  lateral  shelf,  upon  which  these  stones  were  discovered. 
This  northern  ridge  extends  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west. 

From  the  workmen  frequently  meeting  with  stones  of  all  sizes 

4 


CUKICH. 


G41 


in  the  course  of  trenching,  unfortunately  the  regular  arrangement 
of  those  above-mentioned  was  not  attended  to,  until  two  carved 
stones  were  cast  up,  with  the  figures  upon  each  very  entire.  This 
circumstance  naturally  led  to  an  examination  of  all  the  stones,  to 
a  consideration  of  the  manner  in  which  they  were  originally  placed, 
and  to  an  attention  to  those  which  yet  remained  untouched.  Upon 
examination,  no  other  figured  stone  appeared ;  but,  what  was  re- 
markable, many  of  those  taken  up  were  sandstone,  while  the  hill 
on  which  they  were  placed,  and  all  the  hills  in  the  neighbourhood, 
are  whinstone  rock.  Those  which  remained  untouched  were  set 
on  end,  and  so  arranged  as  to  form  two  arches  of  concentric  circles. 
So  far  as  could  be  judged  at  the  time  of  discovery,  the  whole  erect 
stones,  which  were,  in  general,  from  a  foot  and  a  half  to  two  feet 
and  a  half  high,  were  so  placed  as  to  make  up  two  figures  of  a 
circular,  or,  perhaps,  more  nearly  of  an  elliptical  form,  the  one 
contained  within  the  other.  In  the  centre  was  a  cylindrical  stone 
pillar  of  the  same  height  with  the  rest,  and  near  to  it  were  the  car- 
ved stones. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  most  of  the  stones  were  taken  up  be- 
fore their  number,  their  regular  arrangement,  and  individual  po- 
sition, were  ascertained.  This  good  effect,  however,  resulted  from 
the  discovery  of  this  structure,  that  it  induced  some  workmen,  who 
were  soon  after  ploughing  a  field  about  five  or  six  hundred  yards 
due  east  of  the  place  above  described,  to  conclude,  when  their 
ploughs  repeatedly  struck  against  some  stones,  that  they  had  come 
to  something  similar  to  what  had  been  so  recently  discovered  at 
so  short  a  distance,  and  to  pay  particular  attention  to  preserve 
every  stone  in  its  original  position.  They  accordingly  proceeded 
to  remove  all  the  earth  with  the  greatest  care,  and  their  expecta- 
tions of  finding  another  curiosity  were  soon  completely  realized. 
Upon  acquainting  the  present  incumbent  with  the  circumstance, 
he  went  and  carefully  examined  the  situation  of  this  structure :  at- 
tended to  its  form  and  arrangement ;  then  took  the  dimensions  of 
its  different  circles,  and  the  stones  of  which  they  were  composed. 
Its  situation,  hke  that  of  the  former,  was  a  lateral  flat  on  the  south 
side  of  the  same  ridge  of  hills,  and  also  at  an  equal  distance  from 
the  summit  and  the  stream  below. 

In  the  centre  was  placed,  in  an  upright  position,  a  cylindrical 
sandstone,  one  foot  two  inches  high,  and  having  the  diameter  of 
Its  base  one  foot.  Around  this  stone,  as  a  centre,  at  the  distance 
of  three  feet,  were  sixteen  other  stones,  placed  also  in  an  up- 


FIFE.  SS 


642 


riFKsiiittt:. 


right  position,  and  in  the  form  of  a  circle.    The  stones  of  which 
it  was  composed  were  of  various  sizes,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  inches 
in  height ;  from  eight  to  eighteen  in  breadth,  and  from  four  to 
nine  in  thickness.    Due  south  of  the  centre,  and  between  it  and 
the  inner  circle,  there  were  placed  in  a  horizontal  position,  two 
stones  containing  hieroglyphics  in  alto  relievo,  very  entire.  The 
remaining  space  between  the  centre  and  the  circle  was  laid  with 
pavement.     At  the  distance  of  seven  feet  and  a  half  from  the 
same  central  pillar,  there  was  another  circle  of  stones,  thirty-two  in 
number,  placed  in  an  upright  position,  and  very  much  resembling 
those  of  the  inner  circle.    The  stones  in  both  circles  were  placed 
close  together.    Between  the  circles  there  was  neither  pavement 
nor  stone  of  any  description.    Neither  were  perfect  circles,  the 
diameter  of  one,  from  north  to  south,  being  fifteen  feet  one  inch, 
while  its  diameter  from  east  to  west  was  only  fourteen  feet  nme 
inches ;  in  the  same  manner,  the  diameter  of  the  other,  from  east 
to  west,  was  five  feet  ten  inches,  while  from  north  to  south  it  was 
six  feet  one  inch. 

Tt  is  curious  to  observe,  that  many  of  the  stones  here  found,  like 
those  discovered  the  year  before,  were  sandstone,  while  none  of  the 
same  kind  can  be  got  nearer  than  a  quarry  at  Cupar  moor,  which 
is  seven  miles  distant. 

At  the  distance  of  a  few  yards  on  the  south,  there  were  also 
discovered  under  ground  two  curious  whinstones ;  one  resembles 
in  shape  the  frustum  of  a  cone,  with  a  small  projection  at  the 
greater  end,  through  which  is  a  round  hole.  From  this,  at  the 
distance  of  nine  inches,  and  also  near  the  base,  is  a  slit  two  and  a 
half  inches  in  length,  and  extending  inwards  about  an  inch  and  a 
half;  on  the  side  directly  opposite  to  this  slit,  part  of  the  stone  is 
broken  off.  The  perpendicular  height  of  the  frustum  is  seven 
inches,  the  diameter  of  the  small  end  is  seven  and  a  half  inches, 
and  the  diameter  of  the  greater  end  is  eleven.  At  the  top  or 
small  end  of  the  stone,  there  is  an  excavation,  around  which  is  a 
margin  of  rather  more  than  half  an  inch  in  breadth.  From  this 
cavity,  which  is  five  inches  in  depth,  and  capable  of  containing  a 
quart,  there  is  a  round  hole  reaching  to  the  bottom  of  the  stone. 

The  other  stone  is  much  broken.  Its  shape  appears  to  have 
originally  much  resembled  that  of  the  former.  Its  present  per- 
pendicular height  is  seven  inches,  the  diameter  of  the  greater  end 
is  eleven,  and  that  of  the  small  end  nine.  Like  the  former,  it  has 
a  hole  in  the  side  near  to  the  base,  and  reaching  about  three 


CREICH.  043 

inches  inwards.  It  has  also  a  cavity  at  the  top,  and  a  perforation 
extending  from  the  cavity  to  the  bottom.  The  perforation  in  this 
stone  is  four  inches  in  depth,  exactly  double  the  depth  of  the  per- 
foration on  the  other. 

The  above  described  monument  was  allowed  to  remain  for- ten 
days  in  its  original  form  for  public  inspection,  but  as  some  people, 
from  a  love  of  mischief,  or  from  an  expectation  of  finding  hidden 
treasure,  were  beginning  to  lift  and  injure  some  of  the  stones,  and 
as  no  method  of  preserving  them  in  safety  in  their  original  situation 
could  be  easily  adopted,  it  was  considered  necessary  to  remove 
them.    They  were  taken  up  in  presence  of  a  concourse  of  people 
who  had  assembled  to  gratify  their  curiosity,  when  underneath  one 
of  the  carved  stones,  were  found  burned  human  bones  and  charcoal. 
George  Tod,  Esq.  of  Luthrie,  on  whose  property  these  ancient 
circles  were  discovered,  with  much  civility  presented  them  to  the 
present  incumbent,  and  they  are  now  placed  precisely  in  their 
original  form  in  a  wood  behind  the  manse,  a  good  subject  for  the 
examination  of  the  antiquary.    Figures  of  them  are  given  in  the 
Edinburgh  Magazine,  December  1817. 

It  has  been  supposed  by  some,  that  these  ancient  circles  were 
small  Druidical  temples  or  rather  oratories  for  families,  that  the 
excavated  stones  were  meant  for  containing  holy  water,  which  the 
Druids,  as  well  as  the  Greeks,  the  Jews,  and  other  ancient  nations 
were  accustomed  to  use,  and  that  the  burned  bones  were  the  remains 
of  the  sacrifices  here  offered.  It  has  been  supposed  by  others,  with 
seemmgly  greater  probability,  among  whom  is  Huddleston,  the 
learned  Editor  of  Toland's  History  of  the  Druids,  that  these  are 
sepulchral  monuments,  and  that  the  hieroglyphics  on  the  stones  are 
sepulchral  inscriptions— that  one  of  these,  which  is  the  figure  of  a 
spade,  IS  an  emblem  of  mortality,  and  as  such  is  still  seen  on 
tombstones ;  that  the  figure  of  a  pair  of  shoes,  and  of  a  shield  turn- 
ed upside  down,  may  naturally  signify  that  the  owner  has  no  far- 
ther use  for  them,  and  may  remind  one  of  the  reversing  of  arms 
at  a  soldier's  funeral ;  that  the  circular  figures  may  represent  ring, 
which  have  often  been  found  in  sepulchral  monuments;  that  the 
circular  figure  with  perforated  knobs  may  represent  an  antique 
vase  v^Mh  giMcB  lachrymales ;  that  the  cross  inscribed  in  a  circle 
may  represent  the  wheel  of  .some  ancient  carriage,  while  the 
hgure  to  the  left  may  represent  the  body  of  the  machine  disjoined 
from  It,  as  if  no  more  required.    The  stones  found  near  to  the 
above  structure  may  have  been  entirely  unconnected  with  it.* 

•  See  Edinburgh  Magazine,  December  1817,  and  April  1818. 


644 


FIFESHIHE. 


Ancient  Fort. —  On  the  Greencraig,  a  little  to  the  eastward  of 
the  manse,  are  two  concentric  circles  of  rough  stones,  at  no  great 
distance  from  each  other,  which  extend  round  the  hill,  near  to  its 
summit,  except  on  the  north  side,  where  it  is  precipitous. 

Some  have  supposed  that  they  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
camp  of  the  Danes,  which  had  two  lines  of  circumvallation ;  that 
when  the  Danes  invaded  the  country  for  plunder,  they  here  depo- 
sited their  spoils,  until  they  found  it  necessary,  from  being  attack- 
ed by  the  natives,  to  remove  their  pillage  to  their  boats  in  the 
Tay.  Others  have  supposed  that  they  are  the  remains  of  a  fort 
erected  by  the  natives,  for  the  purpose  of  defending  themselves 
and  their  property  against  the  predatory  incursions  of  the  Danes 
or  other  enemies. 

An  ancient  quern  was  lately  found  here  by  some  workmen  when 
employed  in  trenching,  and  was  kindly  presented  to  the  present 
incumbent  by  Mr  Mitchell,  tenant  of  the  farm  on  which  it  was 
discovered. 

Urns,  ^c. — Besides  the  two  jars  mentioned  in  the  forrper  Sta- 
tistical Account,  as  having  been  found  in  a  rising  ground  near  to 
the  manse,  two  urns  were  discovered  many  years  ago  a  Uttle  to  the 
west  of  the  present  house  of  Parbroath,  and  two  stone  coffins  a  little 
to  the  east  of  it.  Urns  have  also  been  found  on  the  lands  of  Balmea- 
dowside.  All  these  were  deposited  on  knolls,  and  contained  human 
bones ;  but  nothing  worthy  of  notice  is  remembered  regarding  them.* 
Creich  Castle,  the  ancient  residence  of  the  Bethunes,is  now  a  ruin. 
It  is  47  feet  in  length,  by  39  in  breadth,  and  three  stories  high, 
with  a  court-yard  on  the  west.    Within  this  court-yard  the  present 
farm-house  is  situate.    The  castle  has  been  a  place  of  very  con- 

•  Since  the  above  was  written  there  was  discovered,  on  the  8th  of  February  1839, 
when  digging  a  grave  within  the  old  church  of  CreicD,  a  few  inches  under  the  pave- 
ment, a  grave-stone,  6  feet  7  inches  in  length,  2  feet  8  inches  in  breadth,  and  4 
inches  in  thickness.  On  the  top  of  the  stone  are  carved  two  figures,— one  of  a  nian 
in  a  complete  coat  of  mail,  and  another  of  a  lady  in  a  long  embroidered  robe.  Above 
the  figures  are  canopies  of  tabernacle  work,  finely  designed.  Upon  two  shields  arc 
emblazoned  the  arms  of  the  families  of  Barclay  and  Douglas.  This  stone-  was  found 
lying  partly  within  and  partly  in  front  of  a  niche,  on  the  top  of  which  are  the  Barclay 
arms.  On  the  outer  edge  of  the  stone,  which  is  bevelled,  is  the  followmg  uiscnption, 
in  old  English  characters.  Two  of  the  words,  which  are  a  little  defaced,  are  omitted: 

HIC  JACET  DAVID  BERCLAY  DE  DNS  DE  QDI  OBIIT  DIE  MESIS  

ANNO  DIY.  M^^-CCCC. 
HIC  JACET  HELENA  DE  DOUGLAS  UXOR  PREDICTY  ftUI  OBIIT  XXIX  DIE  MESIS 
.TANUARII  ANNO  DIY.  M°CCCCXXI.  _ 

Tlie  figures,  although  not  in  relief,  are  executed  with  great  freedom  and  artist-like 
skill  and  the  lettering  of  the  inscription  is  done  with  a  correctness  and  beauty  that 
could  scarcely  be  equalled  at  the  present  time.  From  there  being  hollows  cut  m 
the  stone  for  the  faces  and  hands,  it  appears  that  these  had  been  inserted  in  met"'- 

There  was  a  French  copper  coin,  much  defaced,  found  a  few  inches  under  the  oia 
grave-stone. 


CREICH. 


645 


siderable  strength.  It  was  defended  on  the  south-east  by  a  mo- 
rass, which  has  lately  been  drained,  and  on  the  other  sides  by 
strong  outworks,  part  of  which  has  been  taken  down.  It  bears  no 
date  to  mark  its  age.  The  proprietor,  a  few  years  ago,  very  ju- 
diciously upheld  its  ruined  walls  by  a  repair,  clothed  them  with  ivy, 
and  near  to  them  planted  some  trees  for  shelter  and  ornament.  It 
is  said  that,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  castle  and  a  little  to  the 
north  of  the  church,  formerly  stood  a  brewery,  to  which  was  at- 
tached a  ploughgate  of  land,  denominated  Pitfigies. 

The  old  Parish  Church,  where  divine  service  was  performed  so  late 
^  as  the  9th  December  1832,  is  surrounded  by  the  burying-ground 
and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  castle.  In  the  interiorof  oneof 
the  walls  are  two  niches,  on  the  top  of  one  of  which  is  a  coat  of  arms, 
which  appears  to  be  that  of  the  Barclays  of  Collairnie,  who  were, 
at  a  very  early  period,  proprietors  of  Kinsleith,  in  this  parish,  and 
who  sold  that  portion  called  Easter  Kinsleith,  in  1727,  to  James 
Miller,  Esq.  the  great  grandfather  of  the  present  proprietor. 

Ancient  House  ofPurhroath. —  Of  this  house  or  castle,  which  be- 
longed to  the  family  of  Seton,  nothing  now  remains  to  mark  the  site 
save  part  of  an  arch  surrounded  by  a  few  old  trees,  which  has  been 
carefully  preserved  by  desire  of  the  late  Earl  of  Hopetoun.  It  stands 
near  to  the  place  where  the  road  between  the  Forth  and  Tay  fer- 
ries crosses  the  road  from  Cupar  to  Newburgh.  The  house  is 
said  to  have  been  surrounded  by  a  moat,  over  which  there  was  a 
draw-bridge,  and  the  park  in  which  they  were  situated  is  still  called 
the  Castlefield.  There  is  a  tradition  that  one  of  the  late  farm-build- 
ings at  Parbroath,  which  was  long  used  as  a  barn,  had  at  one  time 
been  a  chapel,  and  that  at  it,  and  at  the  church  of  Creich,  divine 
service  was  performed  on  alternate  Sabbaths.  In  confirmation  of 
a  chapel  having  been  here,  it  may  be  stated,  that,  a  few  years  ago, 
when  the  foundation  of  a  wall  was  dug  up  close  by  the  site  of  the 
old  barn,  some  graves  were  discovered,  which  probably  formed  part 
of  the  burying-ground  connected  with  the  chapel. 

It  is  not  unlikely  that  this  chapel  may  have  been  the  capella 
belonging  to  the  parish  of  Creich,  mentioned  by  Sibbald  in  his 
History  of  Fife. 

III. — Population. 

The  population  in  1755  was  375 

1791        306,  of  these  were  134  males,  172  females. 
1811        304  • 
1821  403 

1831        419,  of  these  were  193  males,  226  females. 
18.38  425 


646 


FIFESHIIIE. 


It  is  stated  in  the  last  Statistical  Account,  that  the  diminution 
of  one-fifth  of  the  population  which  had  taken  place  in  the  ihirty- 
five  years  preceding  1 790,  was  probably  owing  to  one  village  be- 
ing allowed  to  go  to  decay,  to  the  union  of  farms,  and  the  use  of 
two  horse  ploughs.  Since  that  time,  several  additional  houses 
have  been  built  in  the  other  villages,  and  some  are  occupied  by 
numerous  families,  which  may  account  for  the  increase. 

There  is  often  a  very  considerable  diiference  between  the  po- 
pulation of  one  year  and  that  of  another,  arising  from  the  changes 
of  farm-servants  and  others,  some  of  whom  have  numerous  families. 

The  number  of  the  population  residing  in  villages  is  -             -  236 

the  country,  -           -r  187 

The  average  annual  of  births  for  the  last  ten  years  is  -            -  13j 

deaths,             -               -  6  J 

marriage  proclamations,  -  - 

This  last  is  the  average  of  all  who  are  proclaimed  in  the  pa- 
rish, whether  at  the  time  of  a  proclamation  both  parties  are  resi- 
dent or  only  one. 

The  total  number  of  illegitimate  births  for  the  last  ten  years  is  3. 

There  are  eight  proprietors  of  land  in  the  parish  of  the  yearly 
value  of  more  than  L.  50.  Of  these,  four  are  resident,  and  farm 
their  own  properties^ 

In  1838.    In  I83I. 


Number  of  families,  .  -  -  94  85 

Inhabited  houses,  .  .  •  79  74 

Uninhabited  houses,  ...  32 

Number  of  families  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture  4.5  38 

in  trade,  manufactures,  &c.'  43  43 
all  others,  .  ,.66 


There  is  no  insane  person  in  the  parish,  but  there  is  one  who 
may  be  considered  fatuous. 

Prevailing  Amusements. — The  favourite  amusement  in  this  pa- 
rish is  curling.  Many  of  the  landed  proprietors,  almost  the  whole 
tenantry  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  others  of  different  professions, 
resort  to  the  ice  on  Balyarrow,  and  enjoy  this  innocent,  healthful, 
and  invigorating  exercise.  The  Balyarrow  Curling  Club  is  said 
to  be  the  oldest  in  the  north  of  Fife. 

Character  and  Habits  of  the  People— They  are  industrious, 
peaceable,  and  orderly  in  their  habits.  They  enjoy  in  a  rea- 
sonable degree  the  advantages  of  society,  and  are  civil  and  ob- 
liging. They  live  comfortably  without  extravagance,  and  are 
contented  with  their  situation.    In  their  food  and  in  their  man- 

*  There  arc  in  the  parish,  including  masters,  journeymen,  and  apprentices,  7 
Wrights,  2  sawyers,  3  masons,  1  blacksmith,  1  saddler,  11  shoemakers,  5  tailors,  - 
bakers,  2  brewers,  2  grocers. 


CllEICH. 


G47 


ner  of  dress,  there  is  no  peculiarity.  On  the  Sabbath,  they  ap- 
pear in  church  in  their  best  attire,  which  is  neat,  respectable,  and 
becoming.  They  show  a  regard  for  religious  institutions  and  in- 
struction ;  and  may,  in  general,  be  considered  an  intelligent, 
moral,  and  religious  people. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — From  answers  to  my  inquiries  by  the  different 
proprietors  and  tenants,  I  am  enabled  to  state  that  the  number  of 
standard  imperial  acres  in  the  parish  is  2324  ;  that  of  these  1803 
are  cultivated ;  that  276  remain  constantly  waste  or  in  pasture ; 
that  scarcely  any  could  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital  be 
added  to  the  cultivated  land  ;  that  41  acres  are  occupied  by  roads, 
houses,  farm-steadings,  barn-yards,  church-yard,  and  burying- 
ground  ;  and  that- the  remaining  204  are  under  plantation. 

Woods. — The  trees  are  chiefly  Scotch,  larch,  and  spruce  firs, 
in  the  larger  plantations  intermixed  with  several  kinds  of  hard- 
wood. In  one  of  smaller  extent,  and  in  some  belts  and  clumps  of 
planting,  they  are  chiefly  hard-wood ;  and  in  the  grounds  about 
Luthrie  House  there  are  some  fine  old  elms,  planes,  and  horse- 
chestnuts,  &c.  A  few  years  ago  a  plantation  of  Scotch  fir  of  fifteeu 
imperial  acres,  on  the  north-east  extremity  of  the  farm  of  Creich, 
and  last  year  about  nine  acres  of  a  plantation  on  Luthrie,  were  cut 
down  and  sold, — the  trees  having  come  to  full  maturity  at  the  age 
of  seventy  years.  The  ground  on  which  they  grew  has  been 
trenched,  and  is  now  bearing  excellent  crops. 

Rent. — Many  of  the  proprietors  farm  their  own  properties  ;  but 
a  fair  average  rent  of  the  arable  land  in  the  parish  is  considered 
by  good  judges  to  be  L.  2,  2s.  per  Scots  acre,  or  L.  1,  13s.  3gd. 
per  imperial  acre,  and  of  the  uncultivated  ground  to  be  53.  per 
Scots  acre,  or  about  4s.  per  imperial  acre.  According  to  this  es- 
timate, the  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  3056,  14s.  2d.  The  average 
rent  of  grazing  is  at  the  rate  of  L.  3  for  an  ox;  L.  3,  10s.  for  a 
cow ;  12s.  for  a  ewe  or  full-grown  sheep  for  the  year ;  and  L.  5 
for  a  mare  and  foal. 

Rate  of  Wages. — Unmarried  ploughmen  receive  each  from  L.  10 
to  L.  12  in  money,  and  six  bolls  and  half  of  oatmeal,  Dutch 
weight,  annually,  and  a  Scotch  pint  of  milk  daily,  as  it  comes 
from  the  cow.  They  are  lodged  in  bothies.  Married  ploughmen 
receive  each  annually  about  L.  10,  JOs.,  the  same  quantity  of  meal 
and  milk,  a  free  house  and  garden,  the  driving  of  their  coals,  and 
about  27  falls  of  ground  for  planting  potatoes.    This  small  por- 


(348 


FIFESHIRH. 


tion  of  ground  generally  produces  as  many  potatoes  as  afford  a  suf- 
ficient supply  for  the  family,  and  enable  them  to  feed  a  pig. 
The  foreman  or  principal  servant  receives  in  addition  to  the  above 
from  L.  1  to  L,  3,  and  all  the  milk  of  a  cow,  instead  of  a  pint  of 
milk  per  day.  Men  employed  as  day-labourers  receive  each  gene- 
rally Is.  6d.  per  day  in  summer,  and  Is.  4d.  in  winter.  Women  when 
employed  in  the  fields  get  each  8d.  per  day  of  nine  hours  work,  but 
when  taking  up  potatoes  they  receive  Is.  per  day  and  their  dinner. 
Female  domestic  servants  receive  about  L.  6  per  annum.  Shear- 
ers are  paid  for  cutting  and  binding,  wheat  4^d.  a  threave,  and  for 
barley  and  oats  3gd.  a  threave.  When  the  crops  of  grain  are  cut 
by  the  acre,  the  sum  given  per  acre  is  12s.  Masons  receive  ge- 
nerally from  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  8d.  per  day  of  ten  hours  without  vic- 
tuals. The  rate  of  mason  work  is,  for  Gallowaiy  dikes  from  7s.  6d. 
to  8s.  6d.  per  rood  of  36  square  yards ;  for  close  dry  stone  dikes 
10s.  6d. ;  for  stone  and  lime  dikes,  from  16s.  to  L.  1 ;  for  ruble 
building,  from  L.  1,  8s.  to  L.  1,  12s.  Smiths  usually  contract  to  do 
the  work  of  the  farmer  by  the  pair  of  horses  at  L.  2  annually. 
This  includes  their  shoeing,  and  keeping  ploughs,  harrows, 
grapes,  and  forks  in  good  repair.  Carpenters  receive  from  Is. 
lOd.  to  2s.  per  day  of  ten  hours  and  their  victuals,  or  from  2s.  4d. 
to  2s.  6d.  without  victuals.  The  price  of  wood  is,  ash,  2s.  per 
cubic  foot,  Scotch  fir,  lOd.,  larch  fir.  Is.  2d.,  and  elm,  2s. 

Prices. — The  price  of  different  articles  manufactured  in  the  pa- 
rish for  the  purposes  of  rural  economy  is,  a  two-horse  cart  with  iron 
axle  completely  mounted,  L.  10  ;  a  single  horse  cart  do.  L.  9 ;  an 
iron  two-horse  plough,  L.  3,  15s;  do.  with  iron  swingle-trees, 
L.  4,  10s;  an  iron  grubber  for  drilled  crops,  L.  3,  3s;  an  iron 
drill  harrow,  L  1,  10s;  a  pair  of  iron  common  harrows  fully  mount- 
ed with  rider  and  swingle-trees  of  iron,  L.  2,  10s ;  a  pair  of  wood- 
en common  harrows,  fully  mounted  with  rider  and  swingle-trees 
of  wood,  L.  1,  14s.  The  wooden  harrows  in  the  parish  are  gradu- 
ally giving  place  to  those  of  iron,  and  iron  ploughs  are  universally 
in  use.  There  are  in  the  parish  eight  thrashing  machines  worked 
by  horses,  every  farm  having  one.  The  flail  is  entirely  laid  aside, 
except  by  those  who  have  less  than  twelve  acres  of  ground. 

Live-Stock. — The  cattle  are  generally  of  the  old  Fife  breed, 
which  is  greatly  preferred  by  all  the  rearers  of  stock  in  the  parish, 
except  by  one  individual,  who  thinks  more  highly  of  the  improved 
short  horns  or  Teeswater,  and  whose  lands,  from  being  rich  and  well 
sheltered,  are  well  adapted  for  them.    The  number  of  milk  cows 


CIIEICH. 


fi49 


in  the  parish  is  70,  and  the  number  of  cattle  of  all  ages,  including 
cows,  is  346.  The  cattle  are  generally  sold  when  fat,  about  three 
years  of  age.  No  particular  attention  is  paid  to  the  breed  of  horses. 
The  number  of  horses  of  all  ages  is  about  J  06.  There  are  at  pre- 
sent in  the  parish  13  scores  of  sheep.  No  decided  preference  is 
given  to  any  particular  breed.  They  are  generally  bought  when 
young  in  the  month  of  August,  and  sold  when  fat  in  the  month  of 
June  of  the  following  year. 

Husbandry. — The  most  improved  mode  of  husbandry  is  prac- 
tised. A  rotation  of  six  is  in  general  observed  in  cropping,  viz. 
1,  summer  fallow,  potatoes,  or  turnips  well  manured  ;  2.  wheat,  the 
land  half-manured ;  3.  barley,  sown  with  perennial  rye-grass ;  4. 
grass ;  5.  grass ;  6.  oats.  On  very  rich  land  there  is  frequently 
a  rotation  of  four  or  five  having  one  year's  grass.  On  inferior  land 
wheat  is  seldom  sown  ;  barley,  with  grass  seeds,  follows  the  turnips 
and  potatoes.  The  turnips  are  manured  with  bone  dust,  and  one- 
half  is  eaten  on  the  field  by  sheep.  Three  crops  of  grass  are  fre- 
quently taken.  In  mossy  ground,  oats  are  sown  with  grass  seeds 
in  preference  to  barley.  Where  the  green  crop  has  been  pota- 
toes in  one  rotation,  it  is  turnips  in  the  next,  so  that  the  land  may 
produce  the  same  kind  of  crop  as  seldom  as  possible.  When  the 
half  of  the  turnips  is  to  be  eaten  on  the  field  by  sheep,  all  the  two 
alternate  rows  are  previously  carted  home  for  feeding  cattle,  and 
the  remainder  left  for  the  sheep.  When  the  turnips  are  not  eaten 
on  the  field  by  sheep,  another  method  has  been  practised  within 
these  few  years  of  cutting  off  the  shaws  (leaves),  and  immediately 
ploughing  them  down  in  the  ground.  The  good  effects  of  adopt- 
ing this  method  have  been  fully  shewn  by  the  excellence  of  the  suc- 
ceeding crop.  The  turnips  which  are  usually  raised  in  the  parish 
are  globe,  to  be  used  first,  yellow  next,  and  Swedes,  which  are 
least  apt  to  be  injured  by  the  frost,  last.  The  potatoes  which  are 
most  generally  raised  are  the  Perth  red.  Many  of  them  are  ex- 
ported for  the  London  market,  where  this  kind  is  in  the  great- 
est demand.  The  price  given  here,  which  is  very  much  regulat- 
ed by  the  price  in  London,  varies  from  5s.  to  14s.  per  boll  of  five 
cwt. 

It  may  be  worthy  of  notice,  that  when,  in  the  autumn  of  1836,  a 
severe  frost,  which  set  in  early,  and  continued  long,  prevented  the 
potato  crop  from  being  taken  up  in  safety,  George  Tod,  Esq. 
of  Luthrie  m  this  parish,  allowed  most  of  his  potatoes  to  remain 
m  the  ground  all  winter,  and  took  them  up  in  the  spring  com- 


660 


FIFESIIIRE. 


paratively  little  injured.  They  were  in  consequence  eagerly  sought 
after  for  seed,  and  in  due  time  produced  an  abundant  crop.  The 
weight  of  the  different  kinds  of  grain  in  the  parish  is  as  follows  : 
Barley  from  52  to  56  imperial  pounds  per  bushel,  average  53 ; 
wheat  from  60  to  66,  average  63;  oats  from  40  to  45,  ave- 
rage 42. 

Raw  Produce. — 

Wheat,  221  Imperial  acres  at  Sjquarters,  at  46s.  per  quarter,  L.  1779  I  0 
Barley,       299  -  4^  -       27s.       -        -       1816    8  6 

Oats,  392  -  5^       -         21s.      -       -        2263  16  0 

Pease,  22  r  ^       -         23s.  6d.  -  64  12  6 

Potatoes,      149  at  27  bolls  of  5  ewts.  each  at  9s.  -  -       1810    7  0 

Turnips,      155  at  L.  5,  10s.  per  imperial  acre,  -         -  852  10  0 

Hay,  170  at  160  stones  per  iinperial  acre  at  8d.       -       .         906  1.3  4 

Pasture,      371  at  L.  2  per  imperial  acre,       .  .  -  742    0  0 

Permanent 

pasture,   276  a''  4s.  per  imperial  acre,  -        -       -       -        55    4  0 

Thinning 

ofwood,  204  -  -  -  -         -  20    0  0 

Fallow,  24 
Roads,  &c.  41 


Total  impe- 
rial acres,  2324   L.  10,310  12  4 

The  above  is  calculated  by  the  average  of  the  fiar  prices  for 
the  last  seven  years,  but  the  grain  in  this  parish,  being  better  than 
the  average  of  the  county,  may  be  considered  as  Is.  per  quarter  of 
more  value. 

The  greater  part  of  the  parish  is  inclosed  partly  with  hedges 
and  partly  with  stone  dikes.  More  inclosures  are  in  progress,  and, 
from  the  present  disposition  of  the  proprietors  and  tenants,  it  is  pro- 
bable that  all  the  grounds  in  the  parish  will  be  inclosed  at  no  dis- 
tant period. 

The  common  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years ;  a  period  which 
meets  with  general  approbation,  unless  where  great  improvements 
are  to  be  made  upon  a  farm,  when  it  should  be  longer,  to  afford 
time  to  the  farmer  to  reap  the  benefit  of  what  he  has  expended  on 
improvements. 

Farm-Buildings. — The  farm-houses  are  generally  good,  and  the 
steadings  are  suitable  and  commodious.  Since  the  former  Statistical 
Account  was  published,  at  least  200  imperial  acres  of  waste  land 
have  been  brought  by  draining,  trenching,  and  liming,  into  a  state 
of  hio-h  cultivation,  and  to  produce  excellent  crops.  There  has 
been  drainfhg  also  to  a  considerable  extent  in  lands  which  have 
long  been  under  the  plough,  and  the  results  have  been  very  bene- 
ficial. The  late  Mr  William  Reid,  tenant  of  Parbroath,  who  was 
highly  esteemed  as  a  skilful  agriculturist  and  an  intelligent  upright 


CREICH. 


G51 


man,  practised  on  his  farm,  upwards  of  twenty  years  ago,  the  pre- 
sent approved  mode  of  furrow-draining,  with  great  success.  More 
draining  is  necessary,  and  the  farmers,  who  are  well  aware  of  its  ad- 
vantages, are  carrying  it  on  in  the  most  approved  and  judicious 
manner.  Deep  ploughing  is  resorted  to,  in  order  to  renew  the  soil, 
and  to  get  it  cleared  of  stones. 

Quarries. — There  is  an  excellent  quarry  of  basaltic  clinkstone 
on  East  Luthrie,  the  property  of  George  Tod,  Esq.  with  stones 
from  which  many  of  the  houses  in  the  parish  and  neighbourhood 
have  been  built.  On  Carphin,  the  property  of  C.  B.  Raitt,  Esq. 
there  is  a  gray  sandstone  quarry.  Particulars  regarding  these  quar- 
ries are  stated  in  the  account  of  the  Geology  of  the  parish. 

Manufactures. — The  chief  branch  of  manufacture  is  hand-loom 
weaving.  Osnaburghs,  brown  and  plain  white  sheetings,  and  dow- 
las of  almost  all  qualities,  are  worked  here.  Two  resident  manu- 
facturers, and  some  resident  agents  of  manufacturers  in  Cupar 
and  Newburgh,  give  employment  to  all  the  weavers  in  the  parish, 
and  to  many  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  average  quantity  of  cloth 
■woven  by  them  annually,  as  I  am  informed  by  one  of  the  manu- 
facturers after  a  careful  examination,  is  177,200  yards,  the  value 
of  which  is  L.  5293,  6s.  8d.  Of  this  quantity,  84,000  yards  are 
woven  by  the  weavers .  employed  by  the  resident  manufacturers, 
the  value  of  which  is  L.  2916,  13s.  4d.,  and  the  sum  given  for 
weaving  which,  is  about  L.  612,  10s.  The  price  of  all  the  weav- 
ing at  l|d.  per  yard  is  L.  1292,  Is.  8d.  The  number  of  weavers 
of  all  ages  in  the  parish  is  89,  of  whom  27  are  males  and  12  are  fe- 
males, and  there  are  19  winders  all  females.  The  average  income 
of  each  of  the  weavers  is  about  7s.  per  week  throughout  the  year; 
good  hands  from  9s.  to  10s.  They  work  about  fourteen  hours  per  day. 
A  winder  receives  6d.  per  day  when  employed,  but  the  employ- 
ment is  not  constant.  Since  the  introduction  of  machinery  the 
spinning-wheel  has  been  almost  entirely  laid  aside,  as  no  adequate 
remuneration  for  labour  can  be  procured  by  it.  There  is  but  one 
in  operation  in  the  parish,  and  that  one  only  occasionally, 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Town. — There  is  no  market-town  in  the  parish.  The 
nearest  is  Cupar,  which  is  distant  from  the  centre  of  the  parish 
about  five  miles. 

Villages. — There  are  two  villages,  Luthrie  and  Brunton,  which 
are  pleasantly  situated,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  each 
other.    The  former  contains  a  population  of  145,  and  the  latter 


652 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  91.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  weavers  and  other  handicraft 
tradesmen.  In  the  village  of  Luthrie  are  a  brewery,  a  bakehouse, 
a  small  public-house,  a  meal-mill,  and  a  barley-mill. 

Means  of  Communication. — There  is  a  regular  communication 
with  Cupar,  which  is  the  nearest  post-town,  on  Thursdays  and  Sa- 
turdays, and  with  Dundee,  on  Fridays,  by  carriers  of  small  parcels. 
A  turnpike  road,  between  the  ferries  of  Pettycur  and  Newport, 
passes  through  the  parish  on  the  south,  and  along  by  its  southern 
boundary  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  the  turnpike  from  Cupar 
to  Perth  intersects  it  on  the  south-west.  A  statute  labour  road 
leads  on  from  the  ferry  turnpike  through  the  parish  eastward  to 
Balraerino,  and  another  leads  off  from  it  at  Luthrie  westwards, 
and  on  through  the  barony  of  Balenbreich  to  Newburgh.  The 
length  of  the  former  in  the  parish  is  2  miles  450  yards,  and  of 
the  latter  1  mile  160  yards. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church,  which  is  a  new  and 
handsome  edifice,  was  first  opened  for  public  worship  on  the 
16th  December  1832.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  eminence  above 
the  village  of  Luthrie,  near  to  the  greater  part  of  the  popu- 
lation, and  not  above  two  miles  from  the  most  distant.  It  was 
built  to  contain  252  sittings.  These  were  divided  among  the 
heritors  according  to  their  valued  rents,  and  the  division  was 
sanctioned  by  the  sheriff.  The  heritors,  after  having  accommodated 
themselves  with  seats,  gave  those  which  remained  free  to  their  ten- 
ants, servants,  and  others.  It  would  have  been  desirable,  how- 
ever, had  a  considerable  portion  of  the  sittings  been  set  apart  for 
the  public  ;  for  although  there  would  be  a  sufficiency  of  accom- 
modation were  every  seat  well  filled,  yet  some  individuals  are  un- 
able to  procure  sittings,  and  there  is  a  natural  dislike  to  intrude 
into  the  seats  which  have  previously  been  obtained  by  others. 

Legacy. — The  late  Mr  George  Davidson,  schoolmaster  of  the 
parish,  who  died  in  "1745,  bequeathed  tlie  sum  of  450  merks 
Scots  to  the  Session  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing  communion 
cups  ;  and  two  handsome  plain  silver  cups,  which  were  bought  with 
that  sum,  are  now  used  at  the  communion  service. 

A  stable  has  been  erected  near  the  church  for  the  horses  of 
those  who  choose  to  ride,  or  to  come  to  church  in  their  convey- 
ances, and  a  gig-house  has  been  built  for  the  accommodation  ot 
the  minister. 

The  manse  and  offices  were  built  in  1816,  and  are  suitable  and 
conuuodious.    They  are  pleasantly  situated,  but  at  an  extrcniify 


CREICH. 


653 


of  the  parish,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  church.  The 
glebe  consists  of  about  4|  acres  of  thin  sharp  soil,  and  its 
yearly  value  is  about  L.  8.  The  stipend  consists  of  1  boll,  3 
firlots,  and  3i  Hppies,  wheat ;  8  bolls,  3  firlots,  2  pecks  barley  ; 
3  bolls,  1  firiot,  3|  lippies  meal;  6  bolls,  1  firlot,  2  pecks,  If 
lippies  oats;  and  Ij.  209,  15s.  S^^gd.  in  money. 

There  is  no  Dissenting  chapel  in  the  parish.  The  number  of 
famiUes  belonffino-  to  the  Established  Church  is  84,  and  the  num- 
ber  of  individuals  of  all  ages  belonging  to  the  Established  Church 
is  380.  The  number  of  families  of  Dissenters  is  10.  The  num- 
ber of  individuals  of  all  ages  of  Dissenters  is  45.  Divine  service 
at  the  Established  Church  is  generally  well  attended.  The  num- 
ber of  communicants  at  the  Established  Church,  taking  the  ave- 
rage of  the  last  seven  years,  is  198. 

This  parish  has  contributed  liberally  for  religious  and  charita- 
ble purposes. 

Education. — The  parochial  school  is  the  only  one  in  the  parish. 
The  usual  branches  of  education  are  taught  in  it,  and  in  a  manner 
which  reflects  credit  upon  Mr  Miller,  the  present  schoolmaster,  as 
being  an  able,  diligent,  and  successful  teacher.  The  school  is 
generally  attended  in  the  winter  months  by  about  65,  and  in  the 
summer  by  about  50.  The  fees  per  quarter  for  English  reading 
are  2s.,  and  for  writing,  arithmetic,  English  grammar,  geography, 
and  mathematics,  6d.  each  additional,  and  for  Latin  5s.  The 
children  usually  enter  school  at  from  four  to  six  years  of  age,  and 
leave  it  at  from  ten  to  thirteen.  The  people  in  general  are  alive  to 
the  benefits  of  education,  and  parents,  in  particular,  are  very  desir- 
ous to  procure  a  good  education  for  their  families.  When,  from 
poverty,  any  are  unable  to  do  so,  the  session  is  always  ready  to 
assist  them,  and  there  is  none  in  the  parish  above  eight  years  of 
age  who  cannot  read.  The  schoolmaster  has  the  legal  accommo- 
dations of  a  dwelling-house,  school-room,  and  garden.  He  has 
the  maximum  salary,  school  fees  amounting  to  about  L.  18  per 
annum,  and  the  yearly  interest  of  L.  2000  merks  Scots. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
receiving  regular  parochial  aid  is  5.  They  receive  according  to 
their  circumstances,  each  usually  from  Is.  to  Is.  6d.  per  week, 
and  each  family  a  cart-load  of  coals  at  the  beginning  of  winter. 
Occasional  aid  is  always  afforded  to  a  few,  and  to  some  there  is 
given  merely  a  cart-load  of  coals  during  the  year.  The  tenants 
and  resident  proprietors  give  the  driving  of  all  the  coals  gratis. 


G64 


PIFESHIRE, 


The  parochial  funds  from  which  the  wants  of  the  poor  are  supphed 
consist  of  collections  at  church,  amounting  annually  on  an  ave- 
rage of  the  last  five  years,  to  L.  12,  Is.  Id.;  of  proclamation 
fees,  to  13s.  9^d. ;  of  mortcloth  fees,  L.  1,  2s.  3d. ;  and  of  rent  of 
land  and  houses,  and  interest  of  money,*  to  L.  20,  5s.  lOd. ;  in  all, 
L.  34,  2s.  1  l^d.  There  exists  among  the  poor  in  general  a  laudable 
spirit  of  independence,  which  renders  them  reluctant  to  apply  for 
parochial  aid,  and  the  acceptance  of  which  they  consider  as  de- 
grading. 

Alehouses. — There  is  only  one  in  the  parish,  which  is  evidently 
necessary  and  quite  sufficient  for  the  accommoda:tion  of  the  public. 

Fuel. —  The  common  fuel  is  coal,  which  is  partly  driven  from  the 
pits  at  Balbirnie  and  Orr  Bridge,  a  distance  of  from  eleven  to  thir- 
teen miles  from  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  partly  from  Bal- 
merino,  a  distance  of  five  miles,  -"vhither  it  is  imported  from  New- 
castle and  Alloa. 

The  price  at  Balmerino  of  English  coals  is  from  4s.  6d.  to  os. 
9d.  per  boll  of  42  stones,  or  six  cwt.  and  of  Scotch  coals  at  about 
6s.  per  boll  of  56  stones  or  8  cwt.  The  present  price  of  coals  at 
Balbirnie  is  Is.  6d.  per  load  of  18  stones,  and  at  Orr  Bridge  is 
Is.  3d.  per  load  of  28  stones.  Many  of  the  poorer  classes  use 
considerable  quantities  of  wood  for  fuel,  which  they  get  from  the 
neighbouring  plantations. 

*  Of  this  money,  L.  100  Sterling  were  bequeathed  for  behoof  of  the  poor  bj-  the 
late  Colonel  and  Mrs  Baillie  of  Luthrie,  and  L.  30  by  the  late  David  Gillespie,  Esq. 
of  Kirkton. 


November  1838. 


PARISH  OF  MARKIISCH. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  J.  SIEVERIGHT,  MINISTER. 


1. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Boundaries. — Markinch  is  bounded  on  the  north,  by  the  pa- 
rishes of  Falkland  and  Kettle ;  on  the  south,  by  Dysart  and 
Wemyss ;  and  on  the  east,  by  Kennoway  and  Leven.  The  ge- 
neral form  of  the  parish  is  quadrilateral,  the  lines  of  boundary 
being  pretty  regular,  except  on  the  eastern  side,  which  is  deeply 
indented  by  the  parish  of  Kennoway.* 

Name. — The  church  and  village  of  Markinch  are  situated  on 
the  summit  and  declivity  of  a  gentle  eminence,  which,  at  a  remote 
period,  has,  doubtless,  been  surrounded  by  water,  but  in  more  re- 
cent times,  by  a  deep  morass,  which,  though  now  drained,  and  in 
many  parts  covered  with  buildings,  may  still  be  distinctly  traced 
throughout  its  original  extent.  If  it  is  considered,  then,  that,  at 
the  commencement  of  the  present  era,  the  whole  country  was  co- 
vered with  a  dense  and  impenetrable  forest, — the  appropriateness 
of  the  name  will  be  sufficiently  apparent,  Mark  or  Mcerk,  in  the 
language  of  Scandinavia,  signifying  a.  forest,  and  Ynys  or  Insch,  in 
ancient  Celtic,  an  island. — hence  the  Celto-Pictish  name  Markinch 
or  "  Island  of  the  Forest."f 

Within  the  insular  limits  we  have  thus  described,  are  included 
the  knoll  or  eminence  on  which  the  church  stands,  towards  the 
south  ;  and  Markinch  hill,  towards  the  north  ; — the  two  being  con- 
nected by  a  sloping  ridge,  along  the  summit  and  sides  of  which,  the 
primitive  habitations  were  necessarily  constructed ;  but  since  the 

•  There  has  lately  been  published  a  well  executed  map  of  the  parish  by  Mr  James 
Frazer,  land-surveyor  in  Markinch. 

t  The  more  ancient  orthography  is  Merldnch.  In  West.  Goth.  Marke  signifies 
a  limil  or  louiidary— the  Anglo-Saxon,  Mearc,  the  same,— thus,  Mearc-hind,  confi. 
nium,  fines  terrae— but  both,  we  apprehend,  are  derived  from  Mark,  sylva,  as  the  ra- 
dical  word— forests  in  ancient  times  often  forming  the  principal  boundaries  between 
different  countries  and  states,  and  their  minor  territorial  subdivisions.  This  is  one  of  the 
few  words,  which,  with  little  variation  in  sound  or  orthography,  are  found  in  most 
languages,  ancient  and  modern.  West.  Goth.  Mark,  Marke,  sylva,  nota,  limes.  Fin. 
Merki;  Ang.  Sax.  Mearc;  Isl.  Mark,  Mbrk  ;  Ger.  Marck;  Engl,  Mark;  Beig 
Maerk;  Welsh,  Marc;  Armor.  Marc;  Fr,  Marque;  Sp.  and  Ital.  Marca ;  Pers. 
Marz. 


65G 


FIFESIIIRE. 


drainage  of  the  marshy  ground  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  village 
has  extended  itself  on  all  sides,  and  now  contains  a  population  of 
1300  inhabitants.  Being  neither  a  royal  burgh,  however,  nor 
burgh  of  barony,  its  annually  chosen  magistracy  is  but  a  nominal 
thing  ;  while  want  of  funds,  and  much  more  of  the  authority  neces- 
sary to  levy  an  assessment,  has  hitherto  prevented  the  adoption  of 
those  measures  of  internal  police  and  embellishment,  which  are 
really  indispensable  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  a  crowded  and 
increasing  population. 

Extent. — The  extent  of  the  parish  is  about  6  miles  in  length  by 
5  in  breadth.  Its  superficial  area  may  be  estimated  at  10,200  im- 
perial acres. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  general  aspect  of  the  country 
is  varied  and  picturesque.  From  the  Lomond  Hills,  as  a  back- 
ground on  the  north,  it  slopes  gently  toward  the  south  and  east. 
The  parish  is  intersected  by  four  fertile  valleys,  watered  by  as 
many  streams,  which  unite  towards  the  eastern  extremity.  The 
valleys  are  separated  by  corresponding  ridges  of  low  hills ;  each 
chain  rising  gradually  above  the  other  in  the  direction  of  the  sum- 
mit level.  Nor  are  thriving  and  extensive  plantations  wanting  to 
heighten  the  natural  beauties  of  the  landscape, — and  the  varied 
succession  of  hill  and  dale.  The  proportion  of  wood  is  conside- 
rable, and  being  principally  of  the  ornamental  kind,  and  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  gentlemen's  seats  and  villas,  it  is  so  disposed  as  to  pro- 
duce the  most  favourable  effect. 

Geology. — In  this  department  we  shall  confine  ourselves  to  a 
plain  statement  of  facts,  abstaining  as  much  as  possible  from  spe- 
culative conclusions,  and  avoiding  all  reference  to  conflicting  theo- 
ries. 

We  first  notice  the  remarkable  range  of  low  hills,  composed  of 
fine  sand  and  water-worn  stones,  skirting  the  northern  side  of  the 
valley  of  the  Leven.  These  hills  vary  in  height,  generally  ac- 
cording to  their  distance  from  the  course  of  the  stream,  or  lowest 
level.  Those  of  them  that  are  isolated  and  detached,  form  an 
acute  angle  with  the  axis  of  the  valley ;  that  is,  supposing  the 
valley  of  the  Leven  to  run  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  the  emi- 
nences in  question  extend  lengthways,  almost  due  east  and  west. 
The  southern  slope  will  be  found  to  be  in  almost  all  instances 
very  gradual,  while  the  declivity  towards  the  north  is  as  invariably 
bold  and  abrupt.   Hence,  if  our  observations  are  correct,  we  think 


MARK  INCH. 


the  conclusion  obvious,  that  these  elevations  have  been  generated 
by  the  action  of  a  tidal  wave,  ascending  in  the  direction  of  Loch 
Leven,  and  having  a  lateral  action  diverging  from  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  as  the  central  line  of  direction  of  the  great  tidal  stream. 
Hazarding  tlie  opinion,  that  these  hills  were  formed  by  the  action 
of  an  ebbing  and  flowing  current,  we  find  undeniable  proofs  of 
marine  agency  in  the  marl  beds  which  lie  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
surface,  at  the  distance  of  less  than  a  mile  from  the  parish  church. 
These  beds  vary  in  thickness  from  3  to  4  feet,  and  consist  en- 
tirely of  marine  shells,  among  which  the  Mytilus,  Buccinum,  and 
Cardium  aculeatum  predominate.    In  connection  with  this  fact, 
we  have  to  notice  the  incredible  numbers  of  water  worn-boulders, 
of  all  sizes  and  dimensions,  found  upon  and  near  the  surface,  or 
imbedded  in  the  diluvial  clay  of  which  the  subsoil  is  composed. 
These  rolled  masses  comprehend  most  varieties  of  the  primitive 
rocks,  among  which,  basalt,  greenstone,  and  porphyry  predomi- 
nate.  Granite,  gneiss,  and  micaceous  schist  are  next  in  the  order 
of  abundance.    None  of  these  rocks  are  found  in  situ  for  many 
miles,  and  then  only  in  a  westerly  direction.    The  clay  in  which 
these  boulders  are  imbedded,  is  nearly,  if  not  altogether,  devoid 
of  organic  remains,  while  their  appearance  clearly  betrays  long 
exposure  to  the  action  of  a  powerful  current.    Whence,  and  in 
what  manner,  these  boulders  were  brought  into  their  present  po- 
sition, and  in  such  incredible  numbers,  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture ; 
unless  we  may  suppose  that  they  have  been  transported  thither 
by  a  powerful  current  flowing  from  the  westward,  continuous  in 
duration,  rather  than  of  the  nature  of  a  sudden  and  transient  erup- 
tion.   This  conjecture  derives  countenance  from  the  fact,  that 
the  boulders  are  imbedded  in  the  clay  at  various  depths,  and  that 
those  of  them  that  belong  to  the  trap  family,  differ  very  materially 
in  their  character,  from  the  great  trap  vein  or  dike  by  which  the 
parish  is  intersected  from  east  to  west,  and  which  is  of  the  por- 
phyritic  kind,  spotted  with  nodules  of  sulphuret  of  iron,  and  with 
micaceous  laminae.    This  remarkable  dike  is  traceable  from  the 
Leven,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  intersecting  the  Balgo- 
nie  coal-field,  in  a  straight  line  to  Kingsdale,  near  Kennowly, 
where  it  is  protruded.    At  the  .point  where  it  crosses  the  Balbir- 
nie  coal  basin,  near  Plasterer's  Inn,  it  is  said  to  form  a  solid 
compact  mass,  30  feet  in  thickness.    In  approaching  the  trap, 
the  coal  is  thrown  up  in  a  remarkable  manner,  till  at  last  it  is  cut 
off  altogether.    A  bore  carried  down  to  the  depth  of  100  yards 

FIFE.  r,,  f. 


658 


FIl"  ESHIRE. 


on  the  south  side  of  the  dike,  traversed  successive  beds  of  clay, 
sand,  and  gravel,  but  no  indications  of  coal  or  of  rock  of  any  kind 
were  discovered.  The  trap  is  projected  through  the  great  bed  of 
sandstone,  on  which  the  whole  of  this  part  of  the  country  reposes. 

Sandstone. — The  consistency  of  this  rock  varies  from  a  minute 
breccia  to  the  utmost  degree  of  fineness  and  hardness ;  the  colour 
from  a  deep  yellow  to  the  purest  white.    The  colouring  matter  is 
derived  from  iron  in  a  state  of  chromate,  with  which  the  superin- 
cumbent soil  is  strongly  impregnated.    The  dip  of  the  sandstone 
beds  seems  to  depend  almost  entirely  on  accidental  circumstances. 
The  strata  are  found  in  all  positions  from  the  horizontal  to  the 
vertical.    In  many  instances,  it  is  found  in  what  the  quarrymen 
term  binearts,  that  is,  in  solid  cone-shaped  masses  of  immense  di- 
jnensions,  unstratified,  and  without  cleavage  in  any  direction.  In 
this  state,  on  being  broken  up,  the  surfaces  often  present  a  blis- 
tered or  sintry  appearance.    But  this  is  peculiar  to  the  fine-grain- 
ed and  harder  qualities  of  the  sandstone.    The  coarser  sort  is  re- 
gularly stratified  in  layers  of  uniform  thickness,  easily  separated  by 
means  of  the  wedge  and  lever.    It  is  in  this  kind  that  organic  re- 
mains are  almost  exclusively  found.    These  remains  consist  of 
cacti,  and  trunks  of  trees  protruded  perpendicularly  ;  the  roots  re- 
posing sometimes  on  the  coal  beds  below,  but  for  the  most  part 
without  trace  of  branches  or  leaves.    Impressions,  however,  of  the 
bark,  branches,  and  leaves  of  trees  are  not  unfrequent  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  strata. 

Organic  Remains. — With  regard  to  fossils,  we  may  state  that 
vegetable  remains  are  found  in  the  greatest  abundance  and  va- 
riety in  the  softer  bituminous  and  harder  shales,  and  in  the  slate 
clays.  They  comprehend  principally  impressions  of  the  leaves  and 
stems  of  plants,  and  are  common,  we  believe,  to  the  whole  coal- 
field on  the  eastern  shores  of  Fife. 

Mineralogy. — Besides  the  concrete  and  stratified  rocks  already 
briefly  enumerated,  the  department  of  mineralogy  supplies  speci- 
mens of  rock  crystal  containing  various  extraneous  substances. 
Crystals  of  quartz  of  great  beauty  are  occasionally  found  in  the 
sandstone  and  trap  rocks  ;  to  these  may  be  added,  though  more 
rarely,  nodules  of  agate,  carnelian,  chalcedony,  and  jasper.* 
Ironstone.— Ivomtone  is  found  in  the  parish  in  great  abundance. 

*  For  more  minute  details  on  the  Geology  and  Mineralogy  of  this  part  of  the 
country,  the  reader  is  referred  to  Mr  Landale's  excellent  Prize  Essay  on  the  Geolo- 
gy of  the  East  Coast  of  Fife.  Transactions  of  the  Higlilntxl  and  Agricultural  Society 
Cf  Scotland,  Vol.  xi.  1837. 


MAIIKINCH. 


659 


Soon  after  the  publication  of  the  last  Statistical  Report,  a  company 
from  Newcastle,  projected  an  iron-work  on  the  Balg^onie  estate. 
Much  expense  was  incurred,  and  the  scheme  had  a  sufficient  trial, 
but  ultimately  proved  unsuccessful,  and  the  enterprising  indivi- 
duals engaged  in  it  suffered  considerable  loss.  It  has  long  since 
been  abandoned.  The  stone,  however,  containing  in  some  por- 
tions as  much  as  80  per  cent,  ore,  has  frequently  been  exported 
to  the  Tyne  for  smelting.  At  present  the  working  of  it  inter- 
feres with  a  seam  of  coal,  and  is  entirely  suspended. 

Balbii'rde  Coal. — The  coal  so  denominated  lies  on  both  banks 
of  the  Leveu,  principally  on  the  estate  of  Balbirnie,  but  partly  in 
the  lands  of  Rothes  and  Coull,  in  one  continuous  seam.  A  por- 
tion of  the  field  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Rothes  has  at  different 
times  been  leased  to  the  proprietor  of  Balbirnie,  who  possesses  pecu- 
liar advantages  for  working  it,  as  the  greater  portion  of  the  coal  that 
is  level  free,  and  also  more  than  half  the  under  level,  are  in  the  Bal- 
birnie estate.  This  coal  was  wrought  at  a  very  remote  period,  but 
not  extensively,  previously  to  the  year  1730, — when  the  nature  of 
the  field  was  more  accurately  ascertained  by  means  of  bores, — 
proceeding  from  the  old  wastes  in  the  direction  of  the  river,  from 
whence  a  mine  carried  across  the  metals,  rendered  the  field  level 
free  to  a  very  considerable  extent.  In  fact,  no  other  means  of 
drainage  seems  to  have  been  resorted  to  for  a  period  of  forty  years, 
during  which  time  upwards  of  365,000  tons  of  coals  are  computed 
to  have  been  raised  and  sold.  The  Balbirnie  coal  is  now  drained 
by  means  of  water-engines  on  the  Leven ;  that  on  Coull  by  a 
steam-engine. 

The  field  is  somewhat  irregular  in  shape,  but  approaches  most 
nearly  the  figure  of  an  ellipse  or  horse-shoe.  It  is  what  is  called 
a  Trough  Coal.  The  dip  of  the  Balbirnie  seams  is  very  irregu- 
lar. On  the  east  side  it  is  sometimes  45°,  on  the  west  12°.  The 
seams  are  three  in  number,  and  in  thickness  as  follows  : — Is?,  Up- 
per coal,  a  soft  cherry,  1  foot  6  inches ;  2d,  Main  seam,  cherry 
and  splint,  4  feet  6  inches ;  3c:?,  Under  coal,  cherry,  2  feet. 

The  following  is  a  section  of  the  strata  passed  through  in  sink- 
ing a  bore  on  the  south  crop,  near  Newton  Bridge,  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  village  of  Markinch  : 

Fath.  Ft.  In.  Path.  Ft.  In. 

1.  Surface,         -  0  16       4.  Gravel  bed,        -        0  4  6 

2.  Sand,  mixed  with  gra-  5.  Dark  blue  bleas,  0  1  0 
„  J"''  -  -  '  0  4  6.  Whilisli  fire  clay,  -  0  2  6 
.3.  Brown  clay,  mixed  with                         7.  white  freestone  with 

whinstone,        -         7       .3     8  partings,  -  2       ;j  8 


660 


PIFESIIIRE. 


Fath.  Ft.  In.  Path.  Ft.  In. 

8.  While  soft  till,      -       0  2     7  15.  Bleas,  with  gray  free- 

9.  Bleas,  with  gray  free-                               stone  bands,         -        1  0  0 
stone  bands,        -        2  11  16.  Blue  coloured  bleas,      0  ,3  6i 

10.  Grayish  freestone,  with  M.Coal,              -             0  10 
partings,          -          1  4     8  18.  Brownish  freestone,       0  12 

11.  Dark-coloured  parting,  0  0      3  19.  Coal  splint,  -       0  1  11 

12.  Gray   freestone,   with  20.  Soft  blea  parting,    -     0  0  4 
narlins,          -           0  3    10  21.  Coat,         -        •         0  3  34 

13-  Coal,  .  0  1  10   

14.  Black  coloured  till,       0  0     5i  Fathoms,  21  1  14 

But  the  strata  vary  in  thickness,  as  well  as  the  coal  scams,  at 
different  points  in  the  field.  In  general  the  depths  from  the  sur- 
face to  the  different  seams  may  be  set  down  as  follows: — From 
surface  to  upper  seam,  17^  fathoms;  to  main  coal,  23  do.;  to 
under  coal,  30  do. 

At  Balbirnie  the  engine  is  erected  on  the  main  seam,  with  a 
draft  of  25  fathoms,  two  fathoms  being  cut  below  the  coal  for  what 
is  called  a  sump  or  well,  so  that  there  are  no  shafts  30  fathoms 
deep.  Cuts  are  carried  right  and  left  from  the  bottom  of  the  shaft 
to  the  upper  and  under  seams,  the  depth  being  25  fathoms,  or  50 
yards,  as  noted  above.  This  engine  stands  on  the  lowest  part  of 
the  seam,  the  coal  rising  on  either  side  of  it.  The  whole  field  is 
thus  rendered  accessible  to  the  miner,  if  we  except  about  twenty 
acres  of  the  lower  seam,  which  can  only  be  drained  by  an  addi- 
tion of  power  to  the  water-engine,  and  by  sinking  the  shaft  seven 
fathoms  deeper.  Various  bores  have  been  made  with  a  view  to  the 
discovery  of  new  seams  of  coal,  but  without  success.  One  in  par- 
ticular, from  the  pavement  of  the  main  coal,  near  the  centre  of 
the  coal-field,  was  carried  down  to  the  depth  of  67  feet  4  inches, 
till  interrupted  by  a  bed  of  stone,  so  hard,  that  in  a  whole  week 
only  six  inches  were  bored  through,  and  the  attempt  was,  there- 
fore, relinquished. 

The  average  price  of  Balbirnie  coal  may  be  stated  at  8s.  per 
ton ;  but  the  price  varies  according  to  the  quality. 

The  colliers,  in  addition  to  their  daily  earnings,  are  allowed  a 
free  house  and  garden.  Coals  for  their  own  use  are  charged  to 
them  at  the  hewing  rate.  The  following  table  will  give  a  compa- 
rative view  of  the  rate  of  wages  for  the  years  specified.  We  pre- 
mise that  a  single  collier  is  reckoned  to  hew  at  an  average  ten 
loads  per  diem. 

1770  to    1780  to    1790  to    1800  to   1810  to  1820  to  1830  to 
Years  1779.       1789.      1799.      1809.      1819.       1829.  18.39. 

Price  per  load,     .      2d.         2|d.        2ad.        SJd.        3|d.        3|d  3|d 
wlges  per  diem,      Is.  8d.     2s,  Id.    2s.  S^d.  2s.  lid.   3s.  IJd.  3s.  Ud.  Ss.lH 


MAUKINCH. 


061 


Dislocations  and  Obstructions.— The  trap  dike  by  which  the 
Balbirnie  coal-field  is  intersected,  has  already  been  noticed  under 
the  section  of  Geology,  as  well  as  its  effects  in  throwing  up  and  cut- 
ting off  the  coal  seams.  A  similar  vein  of  trap  cuts  off  the  coal  to 
the  north  of  Coull  engine.  Occasional  hitches  are  met  with  in  all 
parts  of  the  field,  raising  or  depressing  the  strata,  but  without  offer- 
ing any  very  serious  obstacles  to  the  operations  of  the  miner. 
The  upper  coal  being  only  18  inches  in  thickness,  and  the  diffi- 
culty of  sufficiently  enlarging  the  galleries,  from  the  nature  of  the 
strata  in  immediate  contact  with  it,  being  very  considerable,  the 
men  suffer  severely  from  a  confined  and  hampered  position,  and 
from  bad  air,  so  that  their  general  health  and  appearance  are  there- 
by, in  process  of  time,  sensibly  affected.  Asthma  and  consump- 
tion are  the  complaints  to  which  they  are  most  liable,  and  at  the 
age  of  thirty  many  of  them  look  old  men.  Formerly,  when  en- 
gaged on  the  main  seam,  many  reached  the  ages  of  sixty,  seventy, 
and  eighty.  Now,  what  with  the  thin  seams,  bad  air,  and  an  un- 
guarded use  of  ardent  spirits,  it  is  rare  to  find  an  old  man  among 
them. 

Balgonie  Coal,  the  property  of  James  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Whit- 
tingham,  has  been  worked  for  centuries.  In  the  old  valuation  of 
the  county  in  the  year  1517,  Coaltoun  is  mentioned  as  one  of  "  the 
pertinents"  of  Balgonie.  The  waste  may  be  traced  for  several 
miles  along  the  line  of  bearing,  and  the  coals  have  been  exhausted 
in  the  same  direction  to  a  depth  of  14  fathoms,  as  far  as  the  free 
level  admitted.  In  1731,  a  water  engine  was  erected,  which  drain- 
ed the  coal  to  the  depth  of  30  fathoms,  but  in  succeeding  years, 
this  engine  was  overpowered  by  the  increased  accumulation  of  water 
from  hitches,  and  the  tacksman  to  whom  the  field  had  been  leased 
substituted  a  windmill  farther  on  the  crop.  Operations  were  car- " 
ried  on  in  this  way  till  the  year  1743,  when  it  was  found  impos- 
sible any  longer  to  compete  in  the  market  with  the  Balbirnie 
coals,  and  the  working  was  consequently  relinquished.  This  sus- 
•  pension  continued  for  more  than  forty  years,  till  at  last,  in  1785, 
more  powerful  engines  were  erected,  and  the  coal  throughout  the 
whole  field  rendered  accessible  to  the  former  depth  of  30  fathoms, 
but  still  only  reaching  to  the  9  feet  or  upper  seam.  This  coal  is 
presently  worked  at  Thornton,  near  the  bridge  of  Orr,  by  steam 
power.  The  Balgonie  is  known  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  Dy- 
sart  coal.  The  strata  dip  towards  the  south-east,  and  consequent- 
ly crop  out  in  north-westerly  direction,  at  an  angle  of  from  25°  to 


662 


FIFESHIRE. 


21°,  or  a  rise  of  I  in  2|  or  3 ;  but  the  angle  varies  at  different 
points;  in  the  field  at  Thornton,  for  instance,  the  rise  is  only 
or  about  1  in  8. 

There  are  two  seams  of  coal  along  the  whole  line  of  bearing;  the 
depth  on  the  level  is  from  25  to  35  fathoms  to  the  first,  or  what  is 
comrrionly  called  the  9  feet  seam,  which  consists  of 

Ft.  In. 

1.  Splint  coal,        -  2  0 

2.  White  Daulk  stone,  0  6  Hard  at  first,  but  falls  when  exposed  to  weather. 
3  Spar  coal,           -  1  3 

4.  Same  as  second  -  0  4 

5.  Head  coal,         -  3  '4 

6.  Stone  as  second  -  0  8  >     ^  , 

7.  Bottom  coal,       -  4  4  }  i^ot  wrought. 


12  3 

Deduct  2,  4,  6  stone,       1  6 


Thickness  of  coal,  Feet  10  11 

But  a  material  alteration  takes  place  in  the  thickness  of  the 
Balgonie  upper  seam  after  crossing  the  hitch  at  Thornton.  On 
the  south  or  Dysart  side  of  that  point  the  total  thickness  increases 
to  13  feet  10  inches  as  follows : 


Ft. 

1.  Splint  coal, 

2 

2.  Daulk  stone. 

0 

3.  Spar  coal, 

1 

4.  Stone, 

0 

5.  Head  coal. 

3 

6.  Mid  stone, 

0 

7.  Bottom  coal. 

3 

8.  Ground  stone. 

0 

9.  Ground  coal, 

1 

III, 

0 
6 
8 
4 
10 
8 
2 
8 
7 


Roof. 


Pavement. 


Feet  16  0 

Deduct  stone,  Nos.  2,  4,  6,  8,      2  2 


Thickness  of  coal,  Feet  1 3  10 

The  second  seam,  commonly  called  the  seven  feet  coal,  lies  10 
fathoms  below  the  nine  feet  coarabove-mentioned,  or  to  a  depth  of 


35  to  45  fathoms  on  the  level. 

It  consists 

of 

Ft. 

In. 

1.  Head  coal, 

1 

2 

2  Head  stone, 

0 

6 

3.  Bottom  coal. 

I 

10 

4.  Stone, 

0 

10 

5.  Road  coal. 

-  I 

0 

6.  Stone, 

-  0 

6 

7.  Rough  coal, 

1 

2 

Feet  7 

0 

Deduct  stone,  Nos.  2,  4,  6, 

I 

10 

Thickness  of  coal. 

Feet  5 

2 

The  common  mode  of  working  the  coal  at  Thornton  is  what  i» 


MAKKliNClI. 


603 


technically  termed  «  stoop  and  throiigher."  The  working  rooms 
are  13  feet  wide,  and  the  pillars  15  feet;  the  width  of  the  rooms 
contracting  on  neariiig  the  crop,  or  where  the  roof  is  msecure. 

The  average  number  of  colliers  employed  may  be  stated  at  .30. 
They  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  2id.  per  load  of  20  stones  Dutch,  for 
large  coal,  which  sells  at  Is.  per  load.  The  small  coal  costs  l|d. 
per  load  for  hewing,  and  sells  at  6d.  The  sale  was  originally  con- 
fined to  the  country  demand,  but  latterly  the  manufactories  on  the 
Leven  and  Orr  waters,  and  in  Kirkaldy,  have  drawn  their  supplies 
from  hence.  With  more  po.werful  engines  for  drawing  off  the 
water,  the  coal  seams  on  Balgonie  may  be  regarded  as  inexhaust- 
ible, as  they  dip  to  the  east,  and  are  never  found  to  rise  to  the  sur- 
face in  a  direction  opposite  to  the  line  of  bearing. 

TI. — Civil  History. 
Antiquities.— Markinch  Hill — This  remarkable  hill,  on  the 
southern  slope  of  which  the  village  is  partly  built,  is  an  object 
alike  interesting  to  the  geologist  and  the  antiquary.  It  is  com- 
posed of  a  fine  sand,  intermixed  with  water-worn  stones,  and  rises 
to  the  height  of  about  100  feet  above  the  level  ground  in  the  vi- 
cinity, extending  in  a  continuous  ridge  from  east  to  west  about  300 
yards.  At  either  extremity  it  sinks  abruptly,  and  is  flanked  by  two 
smaller  eminences,  that  to  the  west  terminating  in  the  marshy 
ground  along  the  line  of  Balbirnie  Park  wall,  while  that  on  the 
east  is  separated  from  Dalginch  Law  by  a  deep  and  narrow  ravine, 
through  which  Balbirnie  burn  flows.  The  southern  slope  of  the 
hill  is  sufficiently  gradual,  but  on  the  northern  side  it  is  naturally 
precipitous,  and  has  been  rendered  more  so  by  the  labours  of  art. 
The  whole  of  this  side  of  the  hill  from  the  base  upwards  is  cut 
into  terraces,  which  seem  to  have  been  continued  round  its  extre- 
mities. On  that  towards  the  east,  indeed,  they  may  be  still  dis- 
tinctly traced,  but  towards  the  west  they  are  obliterated,  the  hill 
having  been  cut  down,  partly  to  allow  a  passage  for  the  road,  and 
partly  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  sand  and  gravel.  These  ter- 
races, six  in  number,  are  of  an  average  breadth  of  20  feet,  and  rise 
each  above  the  other  in  regular  gradation  from  10  to  12  feet. 
They  overlook  a  level  field  .of  about  twelve  acres,  which,  before 
being  drained,  must  have  formed  an  impassable  morass.  There  is 
no  very  definite  tradition  why  or  when  these  terraces  were  formed. 
The  most  probable  conclusion  is,  that  they  are  the  work  of  the 
Roman  invaders,  who,  under  Agricola,  overran  this  part  of  the 
country,  covering  it  with  entrenchments  and  fortifications,  as  a 


664 


FIFESHIUE. 


basis  for  more  distant  operations.    For  advancing  this  opinion  in 
preference  to  any  other,  our  reasons  are  briefly  these : — \st.  In  a 
military  point  of  view,  and  according  to  the  modes  of  warfare  then 
in  use,  the  position  is  one  of  the  strongest  which  the  whole  coun- 
try affords.    The  natural  advantages  of  its  situation,  indeed,  must 
have  rendered  it  nearly  impregnable  with  but  a  handful  of  defen- 
ders, while,  as  a  fortified  camp,  it  was  capable  of  receiving  several  le- 
gions.   Idly,  It  forms  one  of  a  chain  of  similar  fastnesses,  most 
advantageously  situated  for  commanding  the  surrounding  country, 
for  mutual  support,  and  for  keeping  up  a  direct  communication 
with  the  coast  and  with  the  interior.  Qcl,  The  extent  of  the  works 
above  described,  the  great  amount  of  labour  and  industry  required 
for  their  completion,  and,  above  all,  their  form  and  regularity,  so 
little  in  unison  with  the  rude  and  desultory  habits  of  the  aborigi- 
nal inhabitants,  and  so  unsuited  to  their  savage  modes  of  wai?&re; 
while  in  all  these  respects  they  very  exactly  characterize  the  en- 
terprise and  skill  of  their  invaders,  and  their  superior  advancement 
in  the  art  of  defensive  warfare. 

Maiden  Castle.-^ At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  parish,  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  village  of  Ken  noway,  are  to  be  seen 
the  vestiges  of  ancient  fortifications,  running  along  a  narrow  but 
somewhat  elevated  ridge  of  sand-hills,  commanding  the  surround- 
ing plain.  In  the  case  of  an  invasion  from  seaward  this  would  na- 
turally have  been  regarded  as  the  first  defensible  position,  being 
scarcely  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Leven,  and  forming  the 
key  to  the  interior  of  the  country  towards  the  north  and  west. 
Whether  the  Scots,  Romans,  or  Danes  were  its  first  occupants  it 
is  now  impossible  to  determine.  That  it  has  been  the  scene  of 
some  bloody  conflict  is  evident  from  the  number  of  stone-coffins 
containing  human  bones,  that  have  been  dug  up  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood.  Farther  westward,  in  the  direction  of  Markinch, 
weapons  of  war,  peculiar  to  the  Romans,  have  from  time  to  time 
been  found.  The  highest  point  of  the  ridge  in  question  rises  to 
the  height  of  perhaps  80  feet  above  the  small  stream  which  runs  at 
the  foot  of  it.  On  this  knoll,  the  Pretorium  or  citadel,  known  by 
the  name  of  the  Maiden  Castle,  has  stood.  Its  form  has  been 
that  of  a  square,  and  it  measures  about  30  paces  across.  Accord- 
ing to  Boethius,  this  was  a  castle  of  Macduff,  Thane  of  Fife.  His 
description  of  it  is  sufficiently  precise,  and  is  valuable  as  the  only 
plausible  record  concerning  a  spot,  that  has  once  evidently  been  of 
some  importance.    "  Supersunt  inter  Divi  Kenethi  templum  et 


MAUKINCIi. 


665 


Levenam  amnem,  eadem  in  regione,  arcis  septemvallis  olim  septae 
totidemque  fossis  uti  nunc  est  videre,  vestigia  ;  ubi  hujus  clarissi- 
mi  viri  post  eum  vita  functum  posteritas  longa  secula  habitavit."* 
Dalginch,  which  Hes  to  the  east  of  the  village  of  Markinch,  at 
the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  is  the  reputed  site  of  another 
of  Macduff's  castles.  Its  more  modern  name  is  Brunton,-|-  and  a 
subterraneous  opening  from  the  present  house,  but  which  has  long 
been  closed,  is  said,  in  popular  tradition,  to  communicate  with  the 
Maiden  Castle  above-mentioned,  which  is  distant  in  a  straight  line 
between  two  and  threa  miles.  The  supposition  is  too  absurd  to 
admit  of  being  reasoned  upon.  However,  that,  at  a  comparatively 
recent  period,  Dalginch  was  a  place  of  considerable  note,  will  ap- 
pear by  the  following  extract  from  the  Ancient  Digest  of  Scottish 
Laws,  known  by  the  name  of  Jtegiam  Majestatem,  ascribed,  we 
believe,  to  the  usurper  Macbeth. 

"  Ad  quae  loca  tenentur  Warranti  venire." 
c.xx. 

"  Hsec  sunt  loca  ad  quse  warranti  dsbent  venire  ut  res  calumnia- 
tas  legitime  warrantereat.  In  Gowrie,  apud  Sconam.  In  Star- 
month,  apud  Cluny,  &c.  In  Fife,  apud  Dalginche.  Ha;c  sunt 
loca  capitalia  Scotia  comitatatium  per  totum  regnum.":j: 

Family  Seats. — The  most  ancient  residence  of  note  in  the  pa- 
rish is  the  Castle  of  Balfour  or  Bal-orr,  so  designated  from  its  si- 
tuation near  the  confluence  of  the  Orr  and  the  Leven.  It  was 
originally  the  seat  of  the  family  of  Balfour,  who  thence  derive  their 
name, — one  of  the  most  ancient  and  respectable  in  Fife.  About 
the  year  1360,  John  de  Bethune,  described  as  "  familiaris  regis 
Roberti,"  married  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  Michael  de 
Balfour  of  that  Ilk,  and  with  her  obtained  the  estate  of  Balfour. 
The  Bethunes  are  undoubtedly  of  French  extraction,  and  are  re- 
puted to  derive  their  name  from  Bethune,  a  considerable  town  in 
French  Flanders.  They  came  into  England  with  William  the 
Conqueror.    One  of  them  was  the  companion  of  Richard  Coeur 

•  Boeth.  Hist.  Lib.  x.  fol.  206. 

t  Now  called  Barnslee,  the  seat  of  Mrs  Colonel  Paston. 

X  In  the  edition  of  the  Regiam  Mnjestalem,  anno  1606,  the  following  note  is  in- 
scribed in  the  margin  :— "  N.  B.  Terrs  de  Dalginche  pertinebant  olim  Jacobo  Cock- 
burn,  tempore  Jacobi  II.  Regis,  nunc  dicuntur  terra  de  Bruntoun,  et  per  Wardlaw 

dominum  de  Torrie  possidentur  et  sunt  contigufE  terris  de  Markinche."  How  long 

Dalginche  continued  a  principal  seat  of  justice  we  have  no  means  of  ascertaining  j 
probably  as  long  as  the  Thanes  of  Fife  maintained  an  independent  jurisdiction. 
Markinche  must  have  been  a  place  of  some  note  as  late  as  1296,  in  which  year  it  was 
visited  by  Edward  I.  in  his  progress  from  St  Andrews  to  Stirling,  as  we  Jearn  from 
the  Diary  of  his  expedition,  (Cott.  Coll.  in  old  French,  quoted  apud  Tytlcr,  Hist, 
of  Scotland,  Vol,  i.)  his  first  stage  being  Markinch,  and  his  next  Dunfermline. 


66G 


FIFESHIRK. 


tie  Lion  during  his  return  from  the  Holy  Land,  and  was  made 
prisoner  along  with  him  by  the  Duke  of  Austria,  Duchesne  in 
his  "  Histoire  de  la  Maison  de  Bethune,"  derives  the  Scotch 
branch  from  a  certain  Jacobin  de  Bethune,  who,  he  says,  came  to 
Scotland  about  1448;  but  there  are  authentic  documents  to  prove 
that  the  family  were  settled  in  this  country  as  far  back  as  1165. 
Those  of  them  whose  names  are  most  distinguished  in  history  are 
James  Beaton,  Archbishop,  first  of  Glasgow,  and  afterwards  of 
St  Andrews,  and  Chancellor  of  the  kingdom.  St  Mary's  or  New 
College,  founded  in  1537,  remains  a  monument  of  this  prelate's 
munificence  and  zeal  for  learning.  He  died  in  1538,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  nephew,  David  Beaton,  Cardinal,  Legatus  a  latere, 
and  Chancellor,  assassinated  by  Norman  Lesley  and  his  associates, 
May  3d  1546.  A  nephew  of  the  Cardinal,  James  Beaton,  was 
elevated  to  the  see  of  Glasgow.  Our  limits  do  not  permit  us  to 
enter  at  greater  length  into  the  annals  of  this  ancient  and  honour- 
able house.  It  may  not,  however,  be  deemed  superfluous  to  re- 
mavk,  that  the  estate  of  Balfour  has  been  transmitted,  in  the  di- 
rect line  of  hereditary  succession,  for  the  space  of  480  years,  and 
in  the  direct  male  line  for  upwards  of  four  centuries. 

Westward  from  Balfour,  and  on  a  steep  bank  overhanging  the 
Leven,  stands  the  ancient  baronial  Castle  of  Balgonie.  The  most 
ancient  part  of  this  venerable  structure  consists  of  a  donjo7i  or  keep, 
80  feet  in  height,  and  45  feet  by  36  over  walls.  The  basement 
story,  dimly  lighted  by  a  single  narrow  slit  in  the  massive  thickness 
of  the  walls,  seems  to  have  served  as  a  prison.  It  is  vaulted,  as 
well  as  the  storey  above.  The  summit  is  surrounded  by  slightly 
projecting  battlements,  with  circular  tourelles  at  the  angles.  The 
roof  is  flat,  and  paved  with  square  slabs  of  freestone.  On  the  ter- 
race thus  formed,  and  several  feet  within  the  external  battlements, 
on  three  of  the  sides  is  erected  a  lodge  of  an  oblong  form,  with 
chimnies  and  sloping  roof,  serving  probably  in  former  times  as  a 
corps  de  garde  for  the  garrison.  Along  the  bank,  looking  north- 
ward, the  first  Earl  of  Leven  erected  a  house  of  three  stories, 
communicating  with  the  tower,  and  a  wing  fronting  east  was  ad- 
ded by  one  of  his  successors,  but,  from  the  unusual  solidity  of  the 
substructions,  and  from  the  range  of  cellars  which  they  compre- 
hend, in  structure  evidently  far  from  modern,  it  is  to  be  conjectur- 
ed, that  buildings  equal  in  extent  originally  occupied  the  site  of 
the  present  edifice,  constituting,  as  now,  two  sides  of  a  qua- 
drangle ;  the  other  two  sides  being  formed  by  a  strong  wall  of  ma- 


MAUKINCH. 


667 


sonry.  The  space  thus  enclosed  forms  an  oblong  area  of  108 
feet  by  G5.  The  main  entrance  into  the  court  is  by  an  arched 
gateway,  flanked  on  each  side  by  towers,  which  bear  marks  of  hav- 
ing been  at  one  time  provided  with  battlements  and  machieoulis. 
Over  the  arch  are  the  remains  of  a  chamber,  communicating  with 
the  tower  by  a  narrow  passage  conducted  in  the  thickness  of  the 
wall.  The  castle  has  once  been  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a 
deep  fosse,  and  a  strong  rampart  of  earth.  On  the  side  of  the 
river  no  defence  was  needed  other  than  the  inaccessible  nature  of 
its  position.  With  all  these  stern  appliances  and  means  to  pro- 
voke assault  and  to  resist  aggression,  history  records  no  tale  of 
siege  sustained,  nor  doughty  feats  of  arms  performed  under  its 
walls,  or  within  the  fair  and  ample  domain  by  which  it  is  surround- 
ed,— nor  are  its  precincts  stained  by  any  of  those  deeds  of  blood 
or  torture  which  throw  an  interesting  gloom  over  so  many  similar 
monuments  of  feudal  times.  The  earliest  proprietors  of  Balgony, 
of  whom  there  is  any  record,  are  the  Sibbalds.  It  afterwards  pass- 
ed by  intermarriage  to  a  cadet  of  the  family  of  Lundin.  In  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.  the  lands  of  Balgonie  were  purchased  by  Ge- 
neral Alexander  Leslie,  who  was  created  .Earl  of  Leven  by  that 
hapless  monarch,  with  succession  to  heirs-general  of  his  body, 
lawfully  begotten.  Owing  to  the  failure  of  male  heirs  in  the  per- 
son of  Alexander,  third  Earl  of  Leven,  the  title  and  estates  de- 
volved to  his  sister,  Lady  Catherine  Leslie,  who  was  married  to 
the  second  son  of  the  then  Earl  of  Melville,  and  became  Countess  of 
Leven  in  her  own  right.  By  the  death  of  his  elder  brother,  the  Lord 
Raith,  her  husband  succeeded  to  his  paternal  title  and  inheritance, 
thus  uniting  the  two  earldoms  in  one  family.  In  1823,  the  beau- 
tiful  and  extensive  estate  of  Balgonie  was  purchased  for  the  sum  of 
L.  104,000,  by  James  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Whittingham,  brother  of 
the  late  General  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  who,  it  is  understood,  de- 
signs to  rebuild  the  castle,  at  present  fast  hastening  to  decay,  on  a 
scale  answerable  to  his  ample  fortune,  and  the  ancient  grandeur  of 
the  pile. 

The  principal  seat  of  the  Balfours  was  the  castle  of  that  name, 
as  already  mentioned.  They  reckon  their  descent  from  the  time 
of  King  Duncan,  and  their  names  appear  as  sheriffs  of  Fife,  and 
as  present  at  successive  Parliaments,  down  to  the  reign  of  Robert 
II.  The  ancestor  of  the  Balbirnie  branch  was  a  cadet  of  Balfour 
of  that  Ilk  ;  who,  having  married  a  daughter  of  Thomas  Sibbald 
of  Balgonie,  obtained  with  her  a  grant  of  the  lands  of  Dovan,  in 


668 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  reign  of  Robert  III.  One  of  his  descendants  having  obtained 
a  charter  of  the  lands  of  Lalethan  from  Lundin  of  that  Ilk  in  1576, 
was  designed  of  Lalethan,  and  afterwards  of  Balbirnie,  acquired 
by  purchase  from  a  family  of  the  same  name. 

Balbirnie  House,  now  the  property  of  John  Balfour,  Esq.,  is 
situated  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  parish  church.  The  house 
is  an  elegant  modern  structure,  erected  by  the  late  General  Bal- 
four. The  principal  entrance,  which  is  on  the  south  front,  is  by 
a  handsome  portico,  formed  by  columns  of  the  Ionic  order,  with 
corresponding  pilasters.  The  whole  materials  were  drawn  from 
freestone  quarries  on  the  estate.  The  house  is  pleasantly  situated 
in  a  romantic  hollow,  sheltered  from  every  wind  that  blows  by  those 
detached  and  gently  undulating  eminences,  which  form  so  remar- 
kable a  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  vale  of  Leven.  These  heights, 
clothed  with  some  of  the  finest  trees  in  the  country,  are  rendered 
accessible  on  all  sides  by  means  of  walks  and  alleys,  so  contrived, 
as  to  command  at  every  turn  varied  and  picturesque  views  of  the 
surrounding  country,  from  the  Lomonds  to  the  shores  of  the  Frith 
of  Forth,  and  the  coast  beyond.  The  shrubberies  around  the  house, 
and  along  a  small  brook  which  meanders  through  the  grounds  on 
the  east,  are  laid  out  with  exquisite  taste  and  effect,  and  contain, 
in  great  variety  and  profusion,  such  plants  and  shrubs,  native  and 
exotic,  as  are  hardy  enough  to  withstand  the  rigors  of  the  winter. 
The  park,  including  garden  and  shrubberies,  extends  over  a  sur- 
face of  200  acres.  As  a  complete  and  elegant  residence,  Balbirnie 
is  surpassed  by  few  north  of  the  Tweed. 

The  only  other  residence  in  the  parish  which  deserves  particu- 
lar mention  on  account  of  its  antiquity  is  Kirkforthar,  the  seat  of 
George  Johnstone  Lindsay,  Esq.  a  cadet  of  the  noble  and  ancient 
family  of  Crawfurd.  Kirkforthar  formed  part  of  the  Lord  Lind- 
say's ancient  estate  of  Struthers,  and  became  a  separate  branch  in 
the  following  manner  :  David,  Lord  Lindsay  of  Byres,  espoused 
the  cause  of  King  James  III.  in  opposition  to  the  views  of  his  son, 
James  IV..  who  was  stirred  up  by  the  confederated  nobles  to  be- 
come their  leader  in  a  foul  and  unnatural  rebellion.  Lord  Lind- 
say commanded  the  father's  adherents.  The  two  hostile  armies 
having  met  at  Sauchieburn,  a  battle  took  place,  which  issued  in 
the  defeat  and  death  of  the  unfortunate  James  III.  Immediately 
after,  Lord  Lindsay  was  arraigned  of  high  treason.  Although  he 
was  an  excellent  soldier,  and  had  great  experience  in  the  service 
of  foreign  states,  yet  he  was  but  little  gifted  with  court  phraseology, 

3 


MAR  KING  II. 


669 


or  versed  in  judicial  procedure,  and  in  his  defence  made  a  cutting 
and  sarcastic  speech,  which  drew  down  upon  him  the  displeasure 
of  the  king  and  of  his  judges.  But  Patrick  Lindsay,  his  brother- 
german,  who  was  bred  a  lawyer,  on  hearing  his  brother's  speech, 
and  witnessing  its  effects,  craved  permission  to  plead  his  cause, 
which  he  did  with  so  much  address,  that  Lord  Lindsay  was  acquit- 
ted. The  old  Baron,  touched  with  a  piece  of  service  so  seasonable 
and  important,  immediately  exclaimed,  "  Well  spoke,  Pat;  for  your 
pyot  tongue  tak'  ye  the  mains  of  Kirkforthar."  * 

Besides  the  above,  several  families  of  note  once  made  part  of 
the  parish  aristocracy,  but  are  now  extinct,  and  scarce  a  vestige  of 
their  dwellings  remains. 

III. — Population. 

The  population  of  the  parish  has  increased  at  a  rapid  rate  during 
the  last  century.  Wilhin  the  last  seventy  years  it  has  considerably 
more-than  doubled.  As  population  and  means  of  subsistence  are 
intimately  connected,  this  great  local  increase  may  be  attributed, 
in  a  great  measure,  to  the  introduction  of  new  branches  of  pro- 
ductive industry,  which,  by  supplying  regular  employment,  both 
retained  the  native  population,  and  attracted  influx  from  less  fa- 
voured districts — emigration  even  of  individuals  being  very  rare. 

Years.  .  1755,  1790,  1801,  1821,  1838, 
Population,        2188.       2790.       3130.       4661.  5396. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. —  The  number  of  acres  under  cultivation  amounts 
to  about  8500,  350  of  which  are  let  in  small  lots  varying  from  1 
to  10  acres,  and  on  leases  varying  from  one  to  seven  years..  The 
remainder  is  let  in  about  forty-three  farms  of  various  sizes.  There 
are  about  400  acres  in  feus  or  small  holdings  in  perpetuity,  for  an  an* 
nual  payment,  varying  from  a  merely  nominal  acknowledgment-to 
L.16  per  imperial  acre.  These  feus  are  chiefly  in  the  villages, 
and  extend  from  a  few  poles  to  several  acres  each.  There  are 
about  800  acres  under  plantations,  and  a  moss,  the  only  one  in  the 
parish  from  which  peats  are  dug  for  fuel,  may  contain  100  more. 
The  quantity  of  land  held  by  proprietors  of  bleachfields  and  of 

*  Lindsay  or  Lindessay  was  originally  an  Anglo-Saxon  earldom  in  the  county  of 
Lincoln  ;  and  one  of  the  great  divisions  of  that  county  bears  the  name  of  Lindsay  to 
this  day.  The  son  of  the  Earl  of  Lindsay,  after  the  fatal  field  of  Hastings,  accom- 
panied Edward  Atheling  into  Scotland  to  the  court  of  .Malcolm  Canmore.  The  two 
principal  branches  or  stems  of  this  once  potent  family  were  represented — the  one  by 
the  Earls  of  Crawford,  the  other  by  Lord  Lindsay  of  the  Byres,  until  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.  when  the  whole  honours  of  the  family  were  vested  in  the  person  of  John 
tenth  Lord  Lindsay  of  the  Byres,  fourteenth  Earl  of  Crawford,  and  first  Earl  of  Lind- 
say.  The  family  of  Kirkforthar,  bear  the  arms  of  Lord  Lindsay  of  the  Byres,  Earl 
of  Lindsay,  and  of  Mure,  Lord  of  Abercorn. 


6T0 


FIFESHIRE. 


other  public  works,  may  extend  to  100  acres  ;  the  remainder,  say 
300  acres,  may  be  regarded  as  taken  up  by  roads,  water-courses,  &c. 

In  order  to  insure  greater  accuracy  in  this  important  branch 
of  statistical  inquiry,  we  have  divided  the  parish  into  three  sec- 
tions, each  of  which  will  be  found  to  differ  from  the  other  in  va- 
rious respects : — 

1,9^.  That  part  which  lies  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Leven,  em- 
bracing the  highest  cultivated  land  in  the  parish.  In  this  quarter 
the  soil  consists  of  loam,  gravel,  or  clay,  resting  upon  a  porous 
subsoil  of  sand  and  gravel ;  here  drainage  is  for  the  most  part  easy, 
so  that  the  land  is  in  general  dry  and  fertile. 

2c?.  District  lying  between  the  Leven  and  the  Orr.  Soil,  wet 
loam,  sand  and  clay,  upon  a  retentive  subsoil,  consisting  of  blue  till, 
patches  of  sand,  silt  and  stones. 

3d.  District  between  the  Orr  and  the  boundary  of  the  parish  to 
the  south  and  east.  Soil,  a  thin  wet  loam,  clay  and  sand,  part 
moorish.    Subsoil  retentive  stiff  clay  or  till. 

In  some  parts  of  the  second  and  third  districts  the  subsoil  is  par- 
tially impregnated  with  iron  immediately  below  the  soil,  forming 
a  pan  or  crust  nearly  impervious  to  water.  Where  this  is  the  case, 
the  soil  must  be  considered  decidedly  bad ;  indeed,  where  it  exists 
in  any  considerable  degree,  heath  is  the  natural  production.  These 
soils  also  contain  boulders  in  extraordinary  quantities,  principally 
trap,  some  of  which  are  several  tons  in  weight.  In  many  fields  of 
the  same  districts,  and  within  fourteen  inches  of  the  surface,  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  these  boulders  can  be  obtained  for  filling  drains 
at  so  small  an  interval  as  nine  feet  asunder. 

Drainage. — The  prevailing  mode  of  draining  is  that  of  furrow- 
drains  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet  deep,  filled  with  stones 
turned  out  in  working  the  soil.  When  the  materials  are  found  in 
this  way  properly  broken,  built  and  packed  in  the  drain,  this  me- 
thod will  be  found  both  economical  and  efficient,  when  the  drains 
are  on  a  hard  bottom.  Tiles  are  preferable  where  the  bottom  is 
soft  or  where  stones  are  not  plentiful,  and  where  the  water  con- 
tains ochre  or  deposits  a  sediment. 

Products  of  the  Soil. — The  system  generally  adopted  is  that  of 
raising  grain  and  rearing  and  feeding  cattle  of  the  Fifeshire  breed. 
Rotation  of  crops  from  four  to  seven  years  : 

].                      2.                   3.              4.  5.  6. 

Fallow  or  potatoes.  Wheat  or  barley.        Grass.  Oats. 

Do                      Wheat.         Pease,  beans,  ^^^^^  Oats. 

tares,  turnips.  •' 

Y)o,                        Do.             Barley.  Grass.  Oats. 

Do,                    Oats.              Grass.  Do.  Do.  Oats. 


MARKINCH. 


671 


The  first  year's  g-rass  is  often  cut  for  hay.  It  is  then  sometimes 
pastured  for  one  or  more  years,  according  to  the  promise  of  grass 
or  the  wants  of  the  farmer.  Supposing  the  lands  in  the  parish 
divided  into  ten  equal  parts,  the  proportions  of  the  various  kinds 
of  crop  maybe  estimated  as  under: 

Fallow  or  green  crop,  2.      Wheat,!.     Barley,!.      Grass,  3.      Oats,  3. 

Pease,  beans,  or  flax  are  but  little  cultivated.  The  above  esti- 
mate is  exclusive  of  the  space  allotted  to  roads,  fences,  water- 
courses, and  pleasure  grounds. 

Manures. — Bone  manure  is  used  in  dry  land  ;  rape  cake  has 
been  tried  successfully  in  clay  and  wet  lands.  The  principal  ex- 
traneous stimulant  applied  is  lime,  from  Forthar,  Chapel,  Pitles- 
sie,  or  Inverteil  lime-wprks.  Besides  the  farm-yard  manure,  a 
considerable  quantity  is  obtained  from  the  neighbouring  villages. 

Amount  of  Produce. — Adhering  to  the  sectional  divisions  al- 
ready referred  to,  the  following  estimate  is  offered  of  the  average 
produce  per  Scotch  acre  :  First  district,  wheat,  Q\  quarters ;  bar- 
ley, 4^  do. ;  oats,  6^  do.  Second  district,  wheat,  4  quarters ; 
barley,  85  do. ;  oats,  5^  do.  Third  district.  In  the  western  part 
of  this  district,  little  wheat  is  sown  ;  the  same  is  the  case  with  re- 
gard to  barley.  Oats  may  be  estimated  at  5|  quarters  per  acre. 

Leases. — The  usual  endurance  of  leases  is  for  nineteen  years. 
Farms  are  let  by  private  offers, — a  mode  which,  while  it  obviates 
the  injurious  tendency  of  public  competition,  enables  the  landlord 
to  exercise  his  judgment  in  the  selection  of  the  tenant,  with  a  just 
regard  to  the  interests  of  both.  A  fixed  sum  of  money  is  now  al- 
most universally  substituted  for  the  antiquated,  though  perhaps 
more  equitable,  mode  of  rent  in  kind. 

Bent  and  Value  of  Land.— In  consequence  of  the  increased  de- 
mand for  all  sorts  of  agricultural  produce  on  the  breaking  out  of 
the  French  Revolution,  the  rentals  of  many  estates  were  doubled. 
At  the  close  of  the  war,  however,  the  value  of  farms  fell  from  15 
to  20  per  cent.  Since  the  practice  of  furrow-draining  was  intro- 
duced, wet-bottomed  lands,  such  as  we  have  described  above,  have 
risen  considerably  in  value. 

Wages. — Men-servants  are  hired  by  the  year  from  Martinmas 
to  Martinmas.  Married  men  receive  of  wages  L.  11  Sterlinar  in 
money;  6^  bolls  oatmeal;  coals,  carriage  free;  and  from  one 
Scotch  pint  of  milk  to  two  imperial  quarts  daily.  They  are  also 
allowed  a  free  house,  with  eight  falls  of  garden  ground,  besides 


G72 


FIPESHIRE. 


twenty-four  falls  for  planting  potatoes.  Unmarried  men  receive 
L.  12  Sterling  per  annum,  lodgings,  potatoes  for  six  or  seven 
months,  with  meal  and  milk  as  above.  Female  servants  get  from 
L.  5  to  L.  6,  10s.  with  board  and  washing. 

Manufactures. — Local  facilities  for  the  establishment  of  all 
those  branches  of  productive  industry  which  require  the  aid  of  ma- 
chinery, are  peculiar  and  numerous.  The  most  remote  part  of 
the  parish  is  but  an  inconsiderable  distance  from  the  coast.  It  is 
traversed  by  excellent  roads  in  all  directions,  rendering  communi- 
cation with  the  great  manufacturing  town  of  Dundee,  through  the 
shipping  ports  of  Newburgh  and  Newport,  on  the  one  hand,  and 
with  Edinburgh,  by  Kirkaldy  and  Pettycur  on  the  other,  neither 
difficult  nor  expensive.  The  water  power  supplied  by  two  consi- 
derable streams,  the  Leven  and  the  Orr,  is  unlimited  and  inexhaust- 
ible. Coals  are  abundant  and  cheap,  and  excellent  stone  for 
building  is  found  in  all  directions,  and  at  a  trifling  depth  below  the 
surface;  while  seven  populous  villages  furnish  an  abundance  of 
hands  for  all  those  operations  where  manual  labour  is  required.  At 
the  period  of  Dr  Thomson's  statistical  return,  there  existed  in  the 
parish  no  machinery  save  what  was  used  in  corn  and  flax  mills,  of 
which  there  are  at  present  in  use  of  the  former,  1,  and  of  the  lat- 
ter, 4.  Since  that  time  a  class  of  public  works  has  sprung  up, 
which  have  been  greatly  beneficial  to  the  industrious  classes.  The 
following  statement  is  made  up  from  the  proprietors'  returns,  which 
have  been  obligingly  furnished. 

Paper-Mills. — Rothes  Paper- Mill  was  erected  in  1806  by  Mr 
William  Keith,  and  worked  as  a  two-vat  mill.  Some  years  after, 
it  became  the  property  of  Mr  David  Lindsay,  who  enlarged  it  con- 
siderably, and  latterly  erected  a  paper  machine.  In  1836,  it  was 
purchased  by  Messrs  R.  Tullis  and  Co.  Brown  and  gray  wrap- 
ping-papers are  the  sorts  now  manufactured  here,  for  which  about 
25cwt.  of  flax  waste,  coarse  bagging,  or  ropes",  are  used  daily.  Em- 
ployment is  here  afforded  to  about  20  men  and  10  women. 

Auchmuty  Paper-Mill  was  erected  by  Robert  Tullis  and  Co. 
as  a  four  vat  mill,  and  began  working  in  May  1810.  The  vats 
are  now  all  thrown  aside,  the  paper  being  made  by  a  Fourdrinier 
machine,  such  as  is  generally  used.  Above  a  ton  of  fine  rags  is 
consumed  here  daily  in  making  cartridge,  coloured,  printing,  and 
writing  papers.  There  are  upwards  of  50  women  employed  in 
sorting  and  cutting  the  rags,  who  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  lOd.  per 


MARKINCH. 


673 


day  of  ten  hours.  About  the  same  number  of  men  are  required 
to  attend  the  machinery,  and  manage  the  diflPerent  processes,  or 
engaged  as  wrights,  carters,  labourers,  &c.  The  wages  of  these 
latter  vary  from  Is.  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  per  day.  The  hands  at  the 
Rothes  Mill  are  remunerated  ^at  the  same  rate.  The  annual 
amount  of  excise  duty  paid  by  the  two  mills  is  about  L.  6500 
Sterling,  and,  as  the  duty  is  l^d.  on  each  pound  of  paper,  this 
gives  a  total  of  1,040,000  lbs.,  or  465  tons  of  paper  manufactured 
annually. 

Balbirnie  Paper-Mill  was  erected  in  the  year  1816,  by  the  late 
Mr  Alexander  Grieve,  and  was  continued  with  two  vats  and  one 
engine,  until  1834,  when  J.  Grieve  and  Co.  introduced  a  machine 
and  four  engines.    The  papers  made  here  are  principally  for  the 
London  market,  and  consist  chiefly  of  two  kinds,  the  one  very 
strong,  such  as  is  principally  used  by  grocers ;  and  the  other  very 
thin  and  transparent,  for  the  use  of  drapers  and  si,lk -mercers. 
The  raw  materials  employed  are,  damaged  yarn,  flax  waste,  bag- 
ging and  ropes,  of  which,  when  making  light  papers,  24  cwt.,  and 
when  making  heavy  papers,  37  cwt.  are  consumed  daily.  The 
•  quantity  of  paper  manufactured  yearly  averages  44,000  reams, 
weighing  about  560,000  lbs.,  or  250  tons,  and  contributing  to  the 
pubhc  revenue  the  sum  of  L.  3500  per  annum.    The  number  of 
hands  employed  on  the  works  are  30,  of  whom  16  are  men,  and 
14  women ;  the  former  earn  from  Is.  6d.  to  2s.  8d.,  and  the  lat- 
ter from  lOd.  to  Is.  Id.  per  day 

Woollen  Manufactory— Balbirnie  Bridge  Factory,  established 
by  Mr  Drysdale,  1835.    The  stuffs  manufactured  here  are  plaid- 
ings,  blankets,  and  shawls.    The  wool  employed  is  chiefly  of  Bri- 
tish growth.    The  carding  and  spinning  processes  are  carried  on, 
on  the  premises,  by  means  of  two  roving -machines  and  two  double 
sets  of  jennies  of  144  and  168  spindles  respectively.    There  are 
10  power-looms  and  4  hand-looms  employed,  producing  3,  7,  8, 
9,  and  10  qrs.  widths.    The  average  daily  consumption  of  raw 
material  is  8  stones  of  24  lbs.  each.    The  hands  employed  are 
27,  of  whom  10  are  men,  11  boys,  and  the  remainder  women 
and  girls.    The  men  earn  from  10s.  to  16s.  per  week,  and  the 
others  from  3s.  6d.  to  6s.    The  power-loom  weavers,  6  boys  and 
4  girls,  earn  as  much  as  Is.  each  per  day  of  twelve  hours.  The 
articles  manufactured  are  principally  for  the  Glasgow  market. 
I  he  wholesale  prices  are,  of  blankets,  from  7s.  to  17s.  each,  and" 
of  plaidings,  from  lOd.  to  Is.  3d.  per  yard.  . 


V  u 


G74  FIFESUIHR. 

Linen  Manufactorij.-^YvQv'xous  to  the  year  1810,  the  brown 
linen  manufactory  of  this  parish  was  hmited  to  some  50  or  60 
operatives,  who  sold  their  Silesias  and  window-blind  Hollands  to 
the  merchants  at  Auchtermuchty  and  Kettle,  from  whom  the 
yarns  were  generally  purchased.    The  yarns  chiefly  used  were 
hand-spun,  the  produce  of  Scotland  and  Ireland,  with  some  Ger- 
man yarns  imported  from  Hamburgh;  but  in  a  few  years  this 
branch  of  the  linen  trade  very  much  declined,  and  was  at  last  al- 
most entirely  relinquished.    About  the  year  1804,  the  manufac- 
ture of  Dowlas,  sheetings,  and  various  kinds  of  towellings,  was  in- 
troduced from  bleached,  mill,  and  spun  flax,  and  tow  yarns,  and 
this  branch  of  the  trade  has  continued  to  increase,  till  it  now  em- 
ploys from  800  to  900  individuals,  including  winders,  warpers, 
weavers,  and  lappers.    The  hands  thus  employed  do  not  all  be- 
long to  Markinch.    The  work  is  given  out  to  be  performed  at 
their  own  homes,  and  many  of  them  reside  in  the  adjoining  pa- 
rishes.   During  the  summer  months,  nearly  a  third  part  of  the 
weavers  go  to  out-door  work,  and  return  to  the  loom  when  wmter 
sets  in.    Steady  workmen,  at  the  present  rates,  will  earn  at 
Dowlas  weaving  about  7s.;  at  sheetings,  8s.;  and  at  towellings, 
9s.  per  week.    The  winders  are  chiefly  old  and  infirm  persons, 
or  married  females  who  have  time  to  spare  from  their  domestic 
duties ;  they  earn  from  Is.  to  4s. ;  warpers  a-ud  lappers,  10s. 
per  week.     The  whole  of  this  branch  is  in  the  hands  of  Mr 
Robert  Inglis. 

Flax  Spinning-Mill— ^^\gome  mills,  the  property  of  Messrs 
Baxter  and  Stewart,  for  spinning  flax  and  tow.  The  works  com- 
mand the  entire  use  of  the  Leven,  and  the  machinery  is  dnwn 
by  two  water-wheels  of  fifty-five  horse-power.  1.  For  flax  spm- 
ning,  dry  or  long  staple,  there  are  twenty  frames,  containing  1000 
spindles,  with  a  full  system  of  screw-gill  preparation  to  corre- 
spond. The  size  of  the  yarn  spun  is  from  H  to  3  pounds  per 
spindle,  or,  in  other  words,  from  30  to  16  lea  yarn.  2.  For  flax 
spinning,  wet  or  broken  staple,  there  are  eighteen  frames,  contam- 
ing  1170  spindles,  with  full  system  of  circular-gill  preparation  for 
the  same.  The  size  of  the  yarn  spun  is  from  12  ounces  to  half  a 
pound  per  spindle,  or  from  30  to  60  lea  yarn.  3.  For  tow  spui- 
ning,  there  are  three  systems  of  spinning,  each  with  suitable 
preparation,  including  twelve  6  feet  carding  engines,  viz.  five  franies, 
296  spindles,  for  spinning  yarn  from  2  to  3  pounds  per  spindle, 


MA  UK  INCH. 


675 


or  24  to  16  lea ;  ten  frames,  400  spindles,  for  spinning  yarn  from 
3i  to  6  pounds  per  spindle,  14  to  8  lea ;  four  franaes,  160  spindles, 
for  spinning  yarn  from  10  pounds  to  24  pounds  per  spindle,  3  to 
2  lea.    The  principal  buildings  of  which  the  mills  are  composed 
form  three  sides  of  a  rectangle,  160  feet  by  140.    Two  of  the 
sides  are  occupied  by  machinery,  and  the  third  is  occupied  by 
three  spacious  warehouses,  with  heckling  rooms  above.    There  is 
a  large  store  warehouse  detached,  capable  of  holding  200  tons  of 
flax,  as  well  as  large  conveniences  in  the  way  of  stabling,  smithy, 
and  gas-work.    There  are  about  265  individuals  employed  at  the 
mills,  of  whom  about  95  are  full  grown  men,  120  women,  and  46 
of  both  sexes  under  seventeen  years  of  age.    The  wages  paid 
each  fortnight  are  about  L.200,  averaging  say  12s.  per  week  for 
each  man,  and  5s.  per  week  for  each  woman  and  for  the  younger 
hands.    The  quantity  of  flax  manufactured  in  the  year  1838  was 
475  tons,  of  which  340  tons  was  Baltic  flax,  65  tons  Archangel, 
and  the  remaining  70  tons  Dutch,  French,  and  Irish.  Besides 
the  tows  from  these  flaxes,  about  100  tons  of  imported  tow  were 
used.    The  total  cost  of  the  whole  material  was  above  L.25,000. 

The  yarns  spun  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  heavier  tow 
yarns,  either  sold  in  the  district  adjoining,  or  exported  to  France. 
The  heavier  tow  yarns  are  manufactured  by  the  proprietors  into  can- 
vas, sacking,  &c.  chiefly  for  the  Ijondon  market.  This  branch  of  the 
business  is  carried  on  in  Dundee,  and  at  present  employs  from  60 
to  100  looms;  but  arrangements  are  at  present  making  for  transfer- 
ring it  to  Balgonie ;  and  when  this  is  eff'ected,  it  will  cause  an  ad- 
dition to  the  number  of  persons  already  employed  of  about  100 
men,  and  50  women  and  children. 

The  village  of  Miltown,  adjoining  the  mills,  has,  since  the  en- 
largement and  extension  of  the  works  in  1836-37,  nearly  doubled 
its  population.  The  present  population  is  580.  The  houses  are, 
in  general,  ueat,  substantial,  and  fully  beyond  the  average  of  the 
country  as  to  comfort.  The  rent  of  a  house  of  two  rooms,  with  a 
few  falls  of  garden  ground  and  a  pig-stye,  is  from  L.2  to  L.2,  10s. 
per  annum. 

Haugh  Spirining-Mill  was  erected  in  the  year  1794,  for  the 
purpose  of  spinning  chiefly  canvas  yarns  from  flax  and  tow,  which 
was  carried  on  by  various  companies  up  to  1 832,  when  the  pre- 
sent proprietor  sold  all  the  old  machinery,  and  introduced  a  com- 
plete set  of  new,  for  spinning  fine  yarns  adapted  for  home  made  li- 
nens. Half  the  machinery  works  upon  the  long  staple,  and  half  upon 


676 


FIFESIIIRK. 


the  short  staple  principle.  An  addition  was  made  to  the  work  in  1835, 
and  the  mill  now  contains  upwards  of  2000  spindles,  capable  of 
turning  off  about  600  spindles  of  yarns  per  day.  The  machinery 
is  propelled  by  two  water-wheels  of  about  40  horse-power.  The 
mill  consumes  from  25  to  30  tons  of  flax  per  month,  consisting 
chiefly  of  the  finer  qualities  imported  from  Holland,  Belgium,  and 
France,  and  also  from  Archangel,  Riga,  and  St  Petersburg. 
The  yarns  are  for  the  most  part  wove  in  the  county  of  Fife,  into 
almost  all  descriptions  of  family  linens. 

Haugh  Bleachjield.— In  1836,  there  was  added  to  the  mills  a 
bleachfield,  capable  of  bleaching  about  two  tons  of  linen  yarn  daily. 
The  work-people  employed  at  the  mill  and  bleachfield  are  in  num- 
ber 183,  of  whom  two-thirds  are  females  from  fourteen  years  of  age 
and  upwards,  earning  from  4s.  6d.  to  7s.  6d.  per  week.  The  men 
earn  from  9s.  to  L.l  weekly.  Most  of  the  hands  are  accommo- 
dated with  dwelling-houses  on  the  premises.  Upwards  of  twenty 
families  are  thus  accommodated,  besides  a  good  many  board- 
ers; the  whole  may  be  estimated  at  an  average  of  280  to  320 
souls.  Their  moral  and  religious  character  is  generally  good, 
and  their  attendance  at  church  very  respectable,  both  in  point  of 
numbers  and  of  outward  deportment. 

Lochfy  Bleachjield,  on  the  water  of  Lochty,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  new  and  thriving  village  of  Thornton,  is  the  property  of  David 
Landale,  Esq.  Kirkaldy.  About  two  tons  and  a-half  of  linen  yarn 
are  bleached  at  this  field  per  day,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  ma- 
nufactured into  cloth  in  the  county  ;  but  part  is  exported  to 
France,  and  some  sent  to  Ireland.  At  this  field  the  residuum  of 
the  chlorine  stills  is  converted  by  the  usual  process  into  carbonate 
of  soda,  and  mixed  with  potash,  as  a  detergent  for  the  yarns. 
From  80  to  100  hands,  mostly  women,  are  employed  at  this 
bleachfield.    The  women  are  paid  5s.  6d.,  and  the  men  10s.  to 

12s.  per  week.  -r.      u  j 

Balgonie  Bleachjield,  the  property  of  Messrs  William  Russell  and 
Co.  was  established  in  1824,  for  bleaching  hnen  yarns.  About  480 
tons  of  flax  and  tow  yarns  are  bleached  here  annually.  The  num- 
ber of  hands  employed  is  70,  who  are  paid  at  the  same  rate  as  at 
the  other  bleachfields.  The  machinery  is  worked  by  water-power 
supplied  by  the  Leven,  on  the  banks  of  which  the  works  are  si- 

tuated.  ,  ^  ij 

Rothes  Bleachjield,  the  property  of  Mr  D.  Donaldson,  was 
erected  in  1800.    The  quantity  of  yarn  bleached  on  an  average 


MARKINCH. 


67T 


is  as  follows :  From  December  to  March,  inclusive,  292  tons ; 
from  April  to  November,  inclusive,  390  tons.  The  number  of 
hands  employed  is — of  men,  30;  women  and  girl§,  80.  The  men 
earn  from  10s.  to  lis.  per  week;  women  and  girls,  3s.  6d.,  4s.  6d., 
5s.  6d.,  according  to  age  and  capability. 

Besides  the  above  public  works,  there  is  a  very  extensive  grain 
distillery  at  Cameron  Bridge;  and  there  has  lately  been  establish- 
ed at  Thornton  a  vitriol  manufactory,  for  supplying  with  that  ar- 
ticle the  surrounding  districts,  which,  previous  to  this  erection, 
were  subjected  to  the  expense  of  carriage  from  Glasgow.  The 
works  at  Thornton  are  a  branch  of  a  Glasgow  firm  extensively  en- 
gaged in  the  vitriol  manufacture. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Ecclesiastical  State. — According  to  an  entry  in  the  "  Great  Re- 
gister Book"  of  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews,  the  church  of  Markinch 
was  given  to  the  Culdees  by  Malduinus,  the  son  of  Gillander,  se- 
venth Bishop  of  that  See,  who  flourished  in  the  early  part  of  the 
tenth  century.  "  Malduinus  Episcopus  St  Andrese  dedit  eis  eccle- 
siam  de  Markinch  cum  tota  terra."  It  seems  to  be  a  fact  suffi- 
ciently well  authenticated,  both  by  records  and  histories  of  the  pe- 
riod, that  the  first  Bishops  were  themselves  Cuidees,  and  elected 
from  among  the  general  body  of  pastors  by  a  majority  of  votes. 
But  as  the  influence  of  these  holy  men  became  gradually  under- 
mined by  the  emissaries  of  Rome,  and  the  insidious  abettors  of  Pa- 
pal domination,  they  were  stript,  one  by  one,  of  their  privileges  and 
possessions,  and  finally  ceased  to  exist  as  a  distinct  and  influential 
body  in  the  church.  At  what  time  they  ceased  to  hold  possession 
of  the  cure  and  lands  of  Markinch,  we  have  no  means  of  ascertain- 
ing very  precisely ;  but,  by  a  deed  of  Eugenius,  son  of  Hugo,  a 
second  son  of  Gillemichael  M'Duff",  fourth  Earl  of  Fife,  we  find 
it  was  mortified  to  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews,  towards  the  close  of 
the  twelfth  century.  This  deed  was  confirmed  by  a  charter  of 
King  William.  From  this  period  the  patronage  of  the  parish  con- 
tinued vested  in  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews,  till,  on  the  suppression 
of  religious  houses  at  the  Reformation,  it  was  resumed  by  the 
Crown.  The  names  of  the  earliest  incumbents  after  the  downfal 
of  Popery  are  not  preserved, — the  session  records  reaching  no  far- 
ther back  than  the  month  of  July  1626,  at  which  period  they  be- 
gan to  be  kept  with  an  exactness  and  detail  long  since  discontinued, 
exhibiting  an  inieresting  picture  of  the  manners  and  opinions  of  the 
time,  and  shewing  with  what  vigilance  and  vigour  the  discipline  of 


678 


Fll'ESHlllE. 


the  church  was  carried  into  effect,  and  its  government  maintained 
throughout  the  most  trying  and  stormy  periods  of  its  history. 
•    From  these  records  it  appears,  that  collections  for  the  poor  were 
regularly  made  on  Sundays,  and  on  occasions  of  baptisms  and  mar- 
riages.   The  sums  thus  collected  were  statedly  distributed  to  the 
regular  poor  on  the  roll,  while  incidental  cases  of  want  or  of  more 
urgent  distress  were  liberally  relieved  on  the  application  of  the  ne- 
cessitous.   The  names  of  the  principal  proprietors  in  the  parish 
appear  as  the  collectors  and  the  distributors  of  the  poor's  funds, 
as  patrolling  in  turn  the  streets  of  the  village  during  the  hours  of 
Divine  service,  delating  offences  against  social  order  and  good  mo- 
rals, and  enforcing  the  salutary  discipline  of  the  church*  against 
graver  delinquencies.    Among  other  respectable  members  of  the 
kirk-session  up  to  the  Reformation,  we  find  the  names  of  Sir  Da- 
vid Achmuttie  of  that  Ilk,  and  of  the  Lairds  of  Balbirnie,  Bandon, 
■Bruntoun,  Coul,  Carristoun,  and  Kirkforthar, — names  related  to  the 
first  families  in  the  kingdom,  and  who  disdained  not  to  exert  the  in- 
■fluence  which  their  rank  and  wealth  conferred  in  promoting  the  in- 
terests of  religion  and  morality.  In  addition  to  the  usual  immorali- 
ties cognizable  by  the  session,  and  which  were  then  punished  by 
fine  and  by  rebuke  in  the  face  of  the  congregation,  we  find  not  a 
few  delated  for  pursuing  their  ordinary  avocations  on  the  Sabbath, 
for  absenting  themselves  from  church  and  from  the  administration 
of  ordinances,  for  slandering  neighbours,  for  profane  swearing,  for 
drunkenness,  and  frequenting  houses  of  public  entertainment  dur- 
ing the  hours  of  Divine  service.    In  1643,  Mr  Frederick  Carmi- 
chael  is  admitted  minister  of  the  parish,  the  "  ministrie  of  the 
Presbyterie"  having  met  at  the  kirk  of  Markinch  for  that  effect. 
His  predecessor  would  seem  to  have  been  deposed  as  "aneenemie 
to  ye  Covenant,"  notwithstanding  the  testimony  borne  in  face 
of  the  kirk-session  by  the  Laird  of  Bruntoun  in  his  behalf,  that  "  he 
was  als  honest  a  minister,  als  faithful  a  minister,  and  als  conscien- 
tious a  minister  as  any  minister  in  Fyffe."    It  appears,  however, 
that  the  great  majority  of  the  elders  and  people  were  heartily  en- 
gaged on  the  side  of  the  common  cause.    Numbers  of  the  pa- 
rishioners flocked  to  the  national  standard,  with  arms  in  their  hands, 
while  contributions  in  money  were  not  wanting  to  attest  thegene- 

*  Besides  the  objects  for  which  the  liberah'ty  of  the  congregation  was  appealed  to,  as 
stated  in  the  text,  it  appears  from  the  records  that  collections  were  occasionally  made 
for  suffering  churches  abroad  ;  and  at  home,  for  building  bridges,  and  for  similar  pub- 
lie  improvements  locally  distant,  and  which  nothing  but  enlarged  views  of  national 
utility  could  have  prompted  at  a  time  when  money  was  so  sparingly  held,  and  the 
jtieans  of  acquiring  it  so  few  and  unproductive  in  (his  inland  parish. 


UlAnKINCII. 


679 


ral  zeal  for  the  cause  of  the  kirk  and  the  Covenant.  Several  in- 
stances occur  in  which  "  the  sessioun  thought  it  meit  yt  the  volun- 
tarie  contribution  should  be  carried  to  ye  armie  by  ye  minister,  and 
to  be  delyvered  ther."  That  the  incumbent  during  these  years 
was  a  zealous  promoter  of  the  popular  cause  is  manifest  from  the 
above  extract,  if,  indeed,  he  was  not  one  of  the  council  of  mini- 
sters appointed  to  attend  the  General  in  the  field  ;  for  not  only  do 
the  weekly  entries  show  that  his  pulpit  was  at  frequent  intervals 
supplied  by  one  of  his  brethren  of  the  Presbytery,  but  we  also  find 
such  intimations  as  the  following : — "  The  qlk  day  our  awin  mi- 
nister taught  (Ps.  xxxiv.  19,)  being  returned  for  ane  space  from 
the  armie,"  and  again,  "  13th  July  1645,  Our  awin  minister  re- 
turned from  England."  We  refer  to  one  other  entry  to  show  that 
the  victims  of  war  were  not  forgotten  by  such  of  their  brethren  as 
tarried  at  home  ;  for  under  the  date  of  August  24th,  1645,  we  find 
it  noted,  that  a  messenger  was  dispatched  by  the  session  "  to 
Montrose-,  his  ligure,  to  try  if  any  prisoneris  of  this  paroche  be 
thaire."  Nor  were  demonstrations  of  piety,  of  which  the  times  fur- 
nished such  signal  examples,  wanting  to  second  the  efforts  of  a  ge- 
nerous patriotism.  The  adverse  vicissitudes  of  those  troublous 
•times  are  duly  marked  by  days  of  public  humiliation  and  fasting, 
-for  which  the  reasons  are  recorded  at  length,  while  the  successes 
of  the  national  leaders  are  as  duly  celebrated  by  public  acts  of 
thanksgiving.  Days  of  thanksgiving  were  ordained  "  for  ye  vic- 
torie  obtained  be  our  armie  at  York  against  Prince  Rupert  his 
armie," — for  "  the  victorie  our  armie  obtained  at  Newcastle," 
. — for  "  the  happie  victorie  obtained  be  Leivtenant  Generall 
David  Lesslie,  against  James  Graham,  sometyme  Earle  of  Mon- 
tros,  and  his  rebellis,  at  Philip  Haugh,  neir  Jedburgh,  upon  ye 
13th  of  September  1645."  In  this  manner  the  principal  events  in 
this  most  eventful  period  of  Scottish  history  are  noticed  up  to  the 
Restoration.  Such  was  the  political  education  of  our  fathers.  Their 
guides  and  instructors  were  their  ministers  and  elders,  the  former, 
for  the  most  part,  men  of  large  minds,  as  well  as  of  an  ardent  piety; 
deeply  versed  in  the  principles  of  civil  not  less  than  of  ecclesiasti- 
cal polity;  while  the  latter,  were,  by  their  birth,  education,  and  mo- 
ral worth,  entitled  to  the  respect  and  esteem  of  those  over  whom 
they  were  called  to  rule,  of  whom  moreover,  they  were  the  local  and 
legitimate  protectors.  The  principles  and  the  proceedings  of  those 
days  have  been  sometimes  wittily  ridiculed,  and  sometimes  gravely 
denounced  as  hostile  to  monarchy,  and  subversive  of  liberty  of  con-. 


680 


FIFESHIRE. 


science ;  nor  have  they  wanted  able  vindicators.  But  discussion 
were  here  out  of  place.  Suffice  it  to  remark,  that  so  fixed  and  firm 
was  the  attachment  of  our  forefathers  to  the  revered  institution  of 
monarchy  in  the  State,  and  presbyterial  order  in  the  Church,  that 
neither  the  example,  nor  the  caresses,  nor  the  menaces  of  the 
"  English  sectaries"  availed  to  repress,  much  less  to  vanquish  them. 

A  system  grounded  on  principles  so  holy,  and  aiming  at  results 
so  salutary, — a  system  so  deeply  rooted  in  the  habits  and  affections 
of  a  whole  people, — none  but  the  most  licentious  monarch,  and  the 
most  unprincipled  administration  that  ever  swayed  the  destinies  of 
the  British  empire,  would  have  wished,  or  ventured  to  assail.  After 
the  re-establishment  of  Episcopacy  the  altered  state  of  matters  is 
lamentably  manifest.  The  meetings  of  session  are  no  longer  stated 
and  regular, — no  fasts  are  ordained  but  those  which  precede  the 
communion — no  days  of  thanksgiving  set  apart,  but  the  29th  of 
May  "  for  his  Majestie's  happie  returne."  Yet  the  Sabbath-day 
ministrations  never  seem  to  have  suffered  any  serious  interruption 
during  the  long  and  troubled  night  of  Episcopal  domination  ;  nor 
is  the  most  distant  allusion  made  in  the  Minutes  of  Session  to  any 
change  of  form,  under  the  new  order  of  things,  unless  the  follow- 
ing may  be  so  interpreted :  "  30th  November  1662,  reading  befor 
and  after  sermones  did  begin  again."  In  the  course  of  the  suc- 
ceeding year,  the  names  of  those  elders  who  were  landed  proprie- 
tors are  no  longer  found,  as  present  at,  or  concurring  in,  the  deli- 
berations of  the  session ;  they  devolved  on  meaner  men  those 
duties  which  the  arbitrary  temper  of  the  times  rendered  it  dange- 
rous for  them  any  longer  to  discharge.*  The  acts  of  their  succes- 
sors are  no  longer  bowed  to  with  deference  and  submission ;  threats 
are  held  out  of  making  "  applicatione  to  my  Lord  St  Andrews  for 
purchasing  of  a  warrand"  in  "  mitigatione"  of  the  required  "  satis- 
factione."  "  My  Lord  St  Andrews,  through  his  commissary,  en- 
joins the  "  mitigatione"  prayed.  But  our  limits  do  not  permit  to 
enter  more  minutely  into  details.  If  similar  instances  of  arbitrary 
interference  served  to  weaken  the  bonds  of  discipline,  and  to  lessen 
the  respect  due  to  the  immediate  pastors  and  rulers  of  the  church, 
they  served  to  prepare  the  minds  of  all  good  men  and  true  patriots 
for  welcoming  the  glorious  dawn  of  civil  and  religious  liberty  usher- 
ed in  by  the  Revolution  of  1 688. 

After  the  Revolution-settlement,  when  civil  and  religious  liberty 

•  The  fines  imposed  on  parishioners  of  Markinch  for  nonconformity  at  this  period 
amounted  to  L.  5000.    See  Wodrow's  History,  author's  preface. 


MARKINCH. 


G81 


were  placed  on  a  secure  basis,  the  church,  if  not  a  faultless,  at 
least  exhibited  a  fair  and  well-proportioned  institution,  as  efficient 
an  instrument  for  publishing  the  Gospel,  and  instructing  the  peo- 
ple, divested  of  religious  pageantry  and  superfluous  appendages 
as  latter  ages  have  witnessed.  From  that  happier  period,  the  pa- 
rish seems  to  have  enjoyed  a  succession  of  not  only  sound,  but 
able  ministers — all  of  them  faithful,  and  some  of  them  eminently 
successful  in  their  day.  The  patronage,  which  is  vested  in  the 
Crown,  was  exercised  judiciously,  chiefly  by  means  of  the  Earls  of 
Leven,  who  till  lately  held  the  rank  of  principal  heritor,  and  long 
diffused  a  salutary  influence  over  the  parish.  No  unpopular  settle- 
ment, I  believe,  ever  took  place,  and  those  who  advocate  the  advan- 
tage of  such  management,  will  no  doubt  be  anxious  to  ascertain 
the  result. 

Now,  though  every  minister  in  his  day  has  had  sufficient  rea- 
son to  deplore  the  limited  success  of  his  ministry,  it  is  due  to  truth 
to  make  the  statement  I  now  do,  that,  after  twenty  years  connec- 
tion with  the  parish,  I  have  found  among  its  ancient  families,  as 
compared  with  new-comers,  transplanted  from  fields  placed  under 
a  different  system  of  spiritual  husbandry,  an  order,  decency,  and 
moral  bearing,  obviously  superior,  even  where  much  might  be 
lacking  as  to  the  full  standard  of  wished-for  piety.  This  general 
statement  admits  many  exceptions  on  the  one  side  and  on  the 
other;  but  enough  remains  to  warrant  the  assertion,  that  a  sound 
Christian  agency  is  the  best  calculated  to  induce  moral  order,  and 
did,  in  fact,  in  this  place,  largely  prove  its  adequacy  to  that  effect. 

As  to  literary  distinction,  few  of  the  pastors  referred  to  had 
leisure,  or  inclination,  it  is  presumed,  to  enter  the  lists  with  com^ 
petitors  for  fame.  One  or  two  of  them  were  deemed  fit  to  be 
transferred  to  St  Andrews,  to  occupy  in  that  University  the  place 
of  principal.  Another,  who  furnished  the  former  Statistical  report, 
published  an  agricultural  survey  of  the  county,  about  the  time  of 
his  translation  to  a  city  charge ;  of  the  rest,  nothing  remains  be- 
yond a  few  sermons,  mostly  of  an  occasional  and  ephemeral  sort. 
Their  works,  however,  we  doubt  not,  will  bear  a  last-day  review 
without  shame,  as  they  are  without  pretension. 

Owing  to  the  rapid  increase  of  population,  the  parish  field  soon 
became  unmanageable  for  a  single  labourer,  especially  as  secular 
business  increases  on  the  hands  of  the  Established  clergy  in  pro- 
portion to  the  census.  Household  ministrations  necessarily  became 
rare,  and  the  effects  of  one  visit  had  vanished  before  another  could 


682 


FlFliFUlIRF. 


be  given  to  confirm  the  impression.  Church  accommodation,  too, 
was  unrighteously  straitened  ;  for  a  place  of  worship  built  for  a  popu- 
lation of  2000  or  3000,  left  many  among  6000  or  6000  unprovided 
for.  Neither  had  there  been  any  Dissenting  place  of  worship  erected 
here,  previous  to  1834,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the  popular  settlements 
that  had  so  long  prevailed.  In  that  year,  a  chapel  in  connection 
with  the  United  Secession  body,  and  seated  for  380,  was  opened, 
though  so  placed  as  to  aflbrd  little  aid  for  unaccommodated 
parishioners  in  the  remote  villages;  for  it  was  put  down  in 
close  neighbourhood  to  the  parish  church,  while  several  considera- 
ble villages,  at  from  two  to  four  miles  distance,  were  overlooked. 

It  was  then,  however,  the  Church  Extension  scheme  came  into 
action,  and  here  it  was  speedily  and  efficiently  applied,  first  at 
Tliornton,  a  village  four  miles  off,  with  more  than  500  inhabitants ; 
and  next  at  Milton  of  Balgonie,  having  nearly  600  indwellers,  be- 
sides a  populous  district  lying  beyond  it.  The  church  at  Thorn- 
ton is  seated  for  upwards  of  400,  and  that  at  Milton  for  650  ; 
while  a  new  erection  at  Methill,  on  the  border  of  Weymss  parish, 
has  supplied  accommodation  for  a  large  village  of  400  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  coast,  and  more  than  six  miles  distant  from  the 
church  at  Markinch.  In  the  latter  village,  Inverleven,  a  small 
Dissenting  chapel  had  long  existed,  and  nearly  one-half  the  inha- 
bitants, who  adhered  to  the  Established  Church,  were  obliged  to 
cross  the  Leven  to  attend  public  worship  at  the  church  of  Scoonie, 
the  minister  of  which,  indeed,  had  taken  the  virtual  charge  of  them 
for  many  years. 

The  church  at  Thornton  was  built  by  general  subscription,  that 
of  Milton  solely  by  the  heritors  and  people  of  the  district  to  be 
benefited  by  the  erection  ;*  and  it  is  due  to  the  respectable  heritors 
of  the  parish  to  record  their  liberality  on  that  occasion,  in  grateful 
terms.  Both  churches  have  now  ordained  pastors  ;  and  seats 
being  furnished  at  a  low  rate,  Sabbath  privileges  are  accessible  to 
all.  But  after  these  erections  have  so  greatly  relieved  the  pres- 
sure on  the  parish  minister,  a  body  of  about  3500  remain,  among 
which  to  exert  his  still  inadequate  pastoral  superintendence,  though 
he  has  done  what  he  could  to  remedy  the  deficiency,  by  calling  a 
qualified  assistant  to  aid  him  in  the  work.  It  were  much  to  be  de- 
sired that  his  unendowed  fellow-labourers  in  the  new  parishes 
were  on  an  equal  footing  as  to  stipendiary  compensation.f 

•  In  both  is  included  tlio  aid  given  in  such  cases  by  the  Church  Extension  Coui- 

uiiltcc  in  Edinburgh.  .  .  .  ,   

t  The  llcv.  Ml  Murray,  the  first  niinistcr  of  Mdton,  was  after  six  mouths,  ti.uis- 


MA  UK  INC  11. 


G83 


The  present  stipend,  augmented  in  1822,  is  18  clialders,  half 
barley,  half  meal,  paid  at  the  rates  of  the  county  fiars,  the  fluctua- 
tion of  which  is  very  considerable,  ranging  betwixt  the  highest  and 
the  lowest  in  the  proportion  of  one  to  five-eighths,  within  the  period 
of  the  writer's  incumbency.  The  glebe  contains  nearly  9  acres, 
which  may  be  valued  at  L.32  per  annum.  The  manse  is  of  very 
ancient  construction,  by  much  the  oldest  in  the  presbytery.  It 
has  undergone  repairs  and  alterations  so  numerous,  as  greatly  to 
affect  its. apparent  identity.  The  site  has  been  long  regarded  by 
incumbents  as  very  insalubrious^  and  more  has  been  expended  to 
obviate  dilapidation,  than  would  have  built  a  wholesome  and  com- 
modious dwelling.    The  church  is  in  excellent  repair. 

According  to  a  census  taken  in  1836,  the  whole  population  of 
Markinch  amounted  to  5328,  or  1189  families.  Of  these,  159 
families  are  Dissenters  from  the  Established  Church;  51  families 
are  of  a  mixed  composition;  30  of  them  having  one  Dissenting 
member;  and  14  having  two  in  each  ;  the  rest  three  or  more  ;  25 
of  the  first  class  (159)  reside  in  the  far  off  village  of  Inverleven. 
Making  these  deductions,  there  remain  within  the  bounds  of  the 
civil  parish  about  1079  families,  exclusive  of  those  of  a  mixed  pro- 
fession, in  connection  with  the  Established  Church,  or  owning  no 
other  connection.  Since  last  census,  the  population  has  increased, 
but  without  materially  affecting  the  above  proportions.  No  marvel 
that  the  class  of  non-attenders  at  any  place  of  worship  should  have 
increased,  when  church  accommodation,  till  recently,  was  so  dis- 
proportionate, and  more  especially,  that,  to  supply  the  public  works, 
strangers,  not  always  of  settled  principles,  or  church  going  habits, 
are  often  attracted  to  the  parish. 

Education. — This  has  always  been  a  prominent  object  in  our 
parochial  system.  No  other  country  has  ever  exhibited  so  close 
an  alliance  betwixt  religion  and  education,  or  shewn  a  parish 
church  and  parish  school  in  such  harmonious  and  undivided  neigh- 
bourhood. Of  this  conjunction,  the  beneficial  effects  have  been 
incalculably  great,  both  as  to  intellectual  improvement  and  intel- 
ligent piety.  The  earliest  records  of  the  kirk-session  evince  the 
attention  paid  to  means  of  education  ;  for,  besides  the  parochial 
school,  we  find  order  taken  to  have  the  remoter  localities  supplied. 
Thus,  in  1702,  the  following  entry  was  made  :  "  The  minister  hav- 
ing acquainted  the  session,  that  he  had  found,  on  his  going  throw 

lated  to  the  parish  of  Dtinbog,  and  was  succeeded  by  the  Ucv.  Mr  M'Ewaii,  the  pre- 
sent incurnbent.  Ihe  first  minister  of  'I  horiiton.  the  Rev.  Mr  Adainsoii,  is  still  there. 
In  both  cliurdies  the  seats  are  well  let  uiid  occupied. 


684 


FIFESHIRE. 


that  part  of  the  parish,  that  the  people  of  Coltoun  stand  in  great 
need  of  an  English  school  for  teaching  their  children, — the  ses- 
sion, taking  the  case  to  their  consideration,  not  only  what  is  repre- 
sented, but  further,  that  there  is  a  dangerous  water  betwixt  this 
and  Coltoun ;  and  that  many  poor  things  of  that  toun  must  be 
lost  entirely  as  to  instruction,  if  there  be  not  a  school  there,  and 
that  parents  who  have  substance  of  the  world,  and  are  obliged  to 
send  their  children  abroad  out  of  the  paroch,  will  be  hereby  en- 
couraged to  keep  them  at  home,  and  that  the  doing  of  this  is  ane 
necessary  and  Christian  duty,  and  for  the  special  benefit  of  that 
corner  of  the  paroch,  and  not  in  the  least  lyable  to  any  reasonable 
exception,  did  unanimously  agree  that  there  be  a  school  in  Col- 
toun, and  offered  to  the  minister  their  ready  concurrence  with  his 
project  to  that  effect."* 

Equal  interest,  however,  was  not  shown  by  the  people  at  all 
times  in  availing  themselves  of  school-training,  for  on  the  "  20 
Martii  1643,"  this  minute  occurs  :  "  The  said  day,  George  Ro- 
bertson did  give  over  his  office  of  ye  school  and  ye  kirk,  and  ye 
session,  and  yat  because  his  deutie  was  small  arid  ewil  paved,''  &c. 
Probably,  George  Robertson  might  have  set  down  the  people's  in- 
difference to  his  own  remissness  or  want  of  skill.  In  the  present 
day,  at  least,  the  desire  for  good  education  pervades  all  classes  in 
the  parish,  nor  are  the  means  for  accomplishing  it  sparingly  en- 
joyed,— nine  schools,  besides  the  parish  one,  being  in  active  opera- 
tion. Of  these  nine,  two  only,  on  the  Balgonie  estate,  have  any 
shadow  of  endowment ;  the  one  at  Balgonie  Square,  enjoving  an 
annual  allowance  of  L.  10,  with  dwelling-house  annexed,  the  other, 
at  Thornton,  having  L.  5  simply.  These  sums  had  been  allowed 
by  the  former  proprietor,  and  are  continued  by  the  present,  with 
a  becoming  liberality.  Another  school,  at  Balbirnie  coal-hill, 
merely  provides  the  teacher  with  a  house.  Of  the  rest,  none  have 
any  other  means  of  support  for  the  teacher,  save  school-fees, — a  very 
precarious  and  inadequate  source  of  remuneration  for  a  class  of  men 
whose  meritorious  labours  are  of  so  much  importance  to  the  com- 
munity. A  female  school  in  the  village  derives  pecuniary  aid  from 
the  private  subscription  of  a  few  ladies  connected  with  the  place, 
chiefly  of  the  Balgonie,  Balbirnie,  and  Barnslee  families. 

The  parish  school  may  be  held  up  as  a  model,  so  admirably  is 
it  conducted  by  Mr  Duncan  Stewart.  Previous  to  his  appoint- 
ment six  years  ago,  little  could  have  been  said  in  favour  of  its  ma- 
nagement; but  it  is  now  efficient  in  the  highest  degree,  and,  in  point 

■  This  school  hxs  continued  to  the  iiresent  time. 


MAUKINCH. 


68b 


of  system,  will  bear  a  comparison  with  seminaries  of  the  first  class. 
After  this,  it  need  not  be  said  that  it  is  well  attended.  Indeed, 
want  of  room  is  the  chief  impediment  it  labours  under,  and  though 
the  heritors  have  already  done  much  in  the  way  of  affording  ac- 
commodation, more  is  needed  for  the  due  working  of  the  im- 
portant institution.  When  Dr  Thomson  gave  his  Statistical  Re- 
port, the  salary  of  the  schoolmaster  was  L.  10,  the  dwelling-house 
also  being  old  and  incommodious.  Mr  Stewart's  salary  is  L.  34, 
4s.  4H.;  school-fees,  L.70 ;  other  emoluments,  L.  17,  10s. ;  total 
income  per  annum,  L.  121,  14s.  41  d.  The  dwelling-house  is  of 
late  erection,  and  affords  accommodation  considerably  beyond  the 
statutory  amount,  though  by  no  means  beyond  the  station  of  the 
occupants. 

Besides  week-day  means  of  instruction,  the  Sabbath  school  sys- 
tem is  diligently  worked  under  the  efficient  direction  of  the  assist- 
ant minister,  aided  by  a  number  of  gratuitous  teachers,  who  de- 
vote a  portion  of  the  Sabbath  to  this  excellent  purpose.  Oral  in- 
struction is  aided  by  the  gratuitous  use  of  a  small,  but  gradually 
increasing  collection  of  appropriate  books,  which  convey  to  many 
houses,  ill-provided  with  such  furniture,  means  of  information  and 
materials  for  thought,  on  subjects  of  momentous  importance.  The 
Dissenting  chapel  has  also  its  collection  of  books  in  useful  circu- 
lation. 

Benefit  Societies. — There  are  several  Associations  that  belong  to 
this  department,  the  strength  and  resources  of  which  are  shewn  in 
the  subjoined  table : 

Name.    No.  of  Members.  Strrte  of  Funds.         Entry.      Quart.  Payt. 

Friendly  Society,       224  -       1..  1000    00  L026  L.016 

Brotherly    do.  107  -  300    0  0 

Apron        do.  160  -  400    0  0 

Equitable    do.  180      never  exceeds  30    0    0  weekly  payment,  0  10 

The  last  is  of  recent  origin,  and  for  the  time,  the  most  popular, 
as  requiring  a  moderate  payment  of  Is.  weekly,  tillthe  collective  sum 
amounts  to  L.  30;  each  in  his  turn,  which  is  determined  by  lot,  is 
put  in  possession  of  that  sum,  continuing  the  weekly  contribution, 
nevertheless,  till  his  payments  shall  have  replaced  the  amount 
drawn,  with  interest.  Thus,  each  has  his  contributions  realized 
to  him,  and  a  mutual  accommodation  results  to  the  whole. 

The  object  of  the  other  three  Societies  is  to  make  provision  for 
widows  and  superannuated  members,  and  to  help  when  disabled 
by  sickness  or  incidental  casualty.  The  widow's  allowance  from  the 
Friendly  Society  is  L.  1,  4s.  per  annum ;  sick  members  receive  for  a 


68(J 


FrFHSHfRE. 


time  4?.,  and,  if  permanent  aid  is  required,  2s.  per  week.  Some  of  the 
others  allow  less. 

There  is,  however,  less  alacrity  now  than  in  time  past  among 
young  men  to  enrol  themselves  in  these  Societies,  and  as  their  suc- 
cess and  stability  depend  on  new  accessions  to  supply  the  vacancies 
made  by  death,  there  is  reason  to  apprehend  a  less  permanent  exist- 
ence to  some  of  them  than  their  benevolent  projectors  contemplated. 

There  has  not  been  shewn  any  strong  disposition  to  make  use 
of  savings  banks,  nor  has  any  branch  of  those  institutions  been 
here  established,  though,  doubtless,  an  investment  in  them  would 
possess  many  advantages  in  the  way  of  encouraging  economy  and 
counteracting  improvidence.  A  branch  of  the  Commercial  Bank, 
Edinburgh,  has  been  recently  introduced,  which  will  afford  new 
facilities  to  the  business  part  of  the  community. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. —  Though  this  class  must  have  increas- 
ed with  an  increasing  population,  yet  it  has  done  so  by  no  means  in 
the  same  ratio.  In  •]621,  the  ordinary  poor  were  21  in  1645,  23  ; 
the  intermediate  years  exhibiting  little  fluctuation.  At  present,  and 
for  the  last  twenty  years,  the  ordinary  poor  average  50  on  the  roll 
for  stated  supply.  In  few  cases,  is  full  maintenance  afforded,  the 
weekly  pension  being  chiefly  given  to  persons  disabled  by  sickness 
or-age  from  industrial  employments,  and  wanting  relations  in  a 
condition  to  relieve  them  fully,  though,  with  a  little  assistance, 
well  disposed  to  contribute  to  the  utmost  of  their  power.  The 
rate  of  allowance  varies  with  the  circumstances  of  the  individual's 
case,  there  being  as  many  under  Is.  6d.  per  week,  as  there  are 
above  that  moderate  sum.  A  heavy  charge,  however,  occasional- 
ly occurs  by  having  whole  families  devolved  on  parish  support, 
either  by  the  death  of  parents,  or  by  their  desertion.  Cases  in  the 
latter  predicament  have,  of  late,  become  n)ore  frequent,  and  will 
necessarily  multiply  in  proportion  as  moral  principle  is  undermined, 
by  the  insidious  fallacies  of  opinion,  which  of  late  have  been  in- 
dustriously propagated  on  the  questions  of  property  and  the  mar- 
riage contract. 

Besides  the  ordinary  poor,  occasional  relief  is  administered,  to  a 
considerable  extent,  to  persons  not  claiming  regular  supply,  though 
incidentally  requiring  assistance.  It  is  always  an  object  to  keep 
this  class  distinct  from  the  others,  as  far  as  the  principle  of  public 
charity  will  allow.  In  general,  there  is  no  indisposition  to  receive 
eleemosynary  aid,  though  far  less  among  recent  settlers,  than  the 
ancient  residents.  When  cases  of  lunacy  occur  among  the  work- 
ing classes,  the  parish,  for  the  most  part,  is  called  on  to  defray  the 


MA  UK  INCH. 


expense  of  their  admission  into  a  public  asylum.  At  present,  there 
is  one  individual  so  maintained  at  Perth.  In  general,  recovery 
is  by  no  means  hopeless,  when  the  case  is  not  too  long  neglected. 

To  meet  these  charges,  the  permanent  funds  of  the  parish  are 
very  inadequate.  These  funds  comprise  church  door-collections, 
dues  on  marriages  and  mortcloths,  and  interest  on  money  in  bank 
deposit.  The  first  named  class  of  revenue  is  variable,  and  it  is  to 
be  regretted  that  the  younger  portion  of  church-goers  are  less  ex- 
emplary in  the  Sabbath  offering  than  their  fathers.  Injurious 
opinions,  indeed,  are  by  some  inculcated,  to  the  effect  that  such 
contributions,  going  only  to  exonerate  the  proprietors  of  the  soil, 
who  are  legally  bound  to  support  the  poor,  form  an  act  of  gratuitous 
generosity  on  the  part  of  the  unlanded  community,  as  if  charity 
were  the  business  of  a  class,  and  not  the  general  concern  of  a 
virtuous  community. 

Other  causes  operating  unfavourably  on  church-door  collections 
might  be  mentioned,  did  the  nature  of  this  report  allow  more  than 
general  views.  It  must,  moreover,  be  taken  into  the  account  in 
stating' an  average,  that  the  quoad  sacra  parishes,  having  their  own 
collections,  must  cause  a  diminution  at  the  parish  church.  By  the 
terms  of  their  constitution,  they  are  allowed  to  apply  their  collec- 
tions for  their  own  objects,  provided  they  collect  twice  annually  for 
the  parish  funds.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that,  in  one  of  those  new 
erections,  that  at  Thornton,  not  a  single  pauper  has  claimed  to  be 
relieved.  Since  these  disjunctions  took  place,  the  average  col- 
lection at  the  parish  church  is  under  L.  1.  Thrice  annually, 
(at  two  sacramental  occasions,  and  first  Sabbath  of  the  year,) 
extraordinary  collections  are  made,  *  the  proceeds  of  which 
are  distributed  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  supplies,  and  chiefly  to 
persons  not  on  the  stated  roll.  Collections  for  objects  not  elee- 
mosynary are  also  occasionally  made,  averaging  from  L.  30  to 
L.  40  per  annum.  These  include  the  General  Assembly's 
Schemes,  books  for  Sabbath  school  library,  &c. 

The  return  for  mortcloths  has  of  late  years  greatly  declined, 
the  right  of  the  kirk-session  to  exact  a  fee  being  occasionally  disput- 
ed, and  not  by  Dissenters  alone,  though  it  was  first  challenged  on 
thatside.  The  payment  is  undoubtedly  legal,  but  can  rarely  be  en- 
forced without  violating  the  decencies  due  to  interment  of  the  dead. 

There  is  a  deposit  fund  of  L.  400  belonging  to  the  parish,  the  in- 
terest of  which  only  is  at  the  disposal  of  the  kirk-session.  A  Female 
Society  for  aged  women  in  destitute  circumstances  lays  out  about 
•  These  are  always  liberal. 


688 


FIFESHIllE. 


L.50  annually,  and  is  so  conducted  as  to  prove  an  excellent  auxili- 
ary to  the  kirk-session.  The  principal  ladies  connected  with  the 
parish  patronize  it. 

It  must  not  be  omitted,  that  a  great  deal  of  private  charity  is 
unobtrusively  distributed  by  the  families  of  the  principal  heritors, 
whether  resident  or  otherwise.  It  is  pleasant  also  to  state,  that 
among  the  humbler  classes,  many  instances  occur  of  an  habitual, 
though  little  noticed  readiness  to  communicate  of  their  little  to  a 
neighbour  having  less.  The  finest  charities  of  life  are  thus  produced. 

The  two  great  coal  proprietors,  Mr  Balfour  of  Whittingham 
and  Balgonie,  and  Mr  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  make  liberal  donations 
of  coals  each  winter.  The  former  not  being  resident,  places  his 
coal  bounty  at  the  disposal  of  the  kirk-session,  and  never  reduces 
the  list  of  expectants  made  up  by  the  elders.  The  Barnslee 
family  also  do  much  in  the  way  of  private  distribution  to  the 
deserving  poor.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish,  the  family  of 
Balfour  has  been  long  distinguished  in  this  respect. 

With  all  these  accessories,  the  parish  funds  present  a  large  de- 
ficit, which  the  heritors  have  hitherto  met  by  voluntary  assess- 
ment. This  is  gradually  becoming  more  onerous,  and  the  kirk- 
session  experience  augmenting  difirculties  in  their  management. 
Indeed,  in  so  far  as  relieving  the  poor  ceases  to  be  regarded  as  a 
branch  of  charity,  and  passes  into  the  predicament  of  an  abso- 
lute legal  claim,  it  becomes  the  more  difficult  for  a  kirk>session 
to  administer  beneficially.  Their  position  is  pressed  on  the  one 
side  by  applicants,  on  the  other  by  heritors,  who  have  to  provide 
for  deficiencies.  In  this  conflict,  their  moral  influence  is  exposed 
to  damage,  and  as  it  perishes,  their  usefulness  suffers  in  propor- 
tion. Yet  the  substitution  of  a  machinery  divested  of  all  church 
associations,  and  worked  by  legal  power  only,  destroys  one  of  the 
healthiest  agencies  ever  introduced  into  the  parochial  economy. 
Miscellaneous  Observations. 

On  minor  branches  of  parish  statistics,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
dilate.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  the  public  health  is  under  the 
care  of  three  active  and  well-qualified  medical  practitioners; 
whereas,  long  after  Dr  Thomson  wrote  his  Report,  not  one  was 
resident  ii>  the  parish.  These  three  reside  in  the  village  of  Mark- 
inch.  There  is  nothing  that  requires  special  notice  in  the  de- 
partment of  disease ;  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  island,  cases 
of  pulmonary  consumption  forming  the  largest  class.  The 
mortality  of  the  last  forty  years  shows  an  average  of  69,  the 


MARKINCH. 


689 


greatest  amount  (in  1834)  being  130;  llie  lowest  (in  1802)  53. 
Several  instances  of  a  longevity  exceeding  ninety  years  have  occur- 
red during  the  last  twenty  years;  and  one,  a  few  months  ago,  who 
had  gone  beyond  ninety-six.  The  ardour  of  politics  had  curried 
him,  two  years  before,  to  a  polling-place  six  miles  from  his  habi- 
tation. 

As  to  the  general  morals  of  the  community,  it  were  indelicate 
to  go  into  specialities  of  detail.    Crime,  as  the  term  is  usually  un- 
derstood, is  exceedingly  unfrequent.    Petty  breaches  of  the  peace 
occasionally  occur,  but  will  become  rare,  as  the  cause  of  temper- 
ance gains  ground,— and  happily  it  does  gain  on  the  opposite  vice, 
— solicited  as  that  vice  is  by  a  too  promiscuous  system  of  licensing 
public-houses,  the  number  of  which  is  still  excessive,  and  ouffhl  to 
be  reduced.    The  class  of  immorality  that  most  falls  under  the 
cognizance  of  the  kirk-session  has  sensibly  diminished  ;  and,  upon 
the  whole,  the  community  has  an  improved  moral  aspect.  This 
is  much  aided  by  the  excellent  regulations  maintained  at  the  lead- 
ing public  works,  whose  proprietors  insist  on  moral  conduct  as  ah 
indispensable  condition  of  being  retained  in  their  employment. 
Several  of  them,  too,  have  provided  libraries  for  the  use  of  (  heir 
work  people,  which  operates  in  many  ways  in  producing  a  benefi-. 
cial  result.     And,  in  proportion  as  the  popular  mind  is  well-in- 
formed, it  will  cease  to  lend  a  facile  ear  to  the  propagators  of  opi- 
nions subversive  of  virtuous  order  and  religious  obligation.  The 
parochial  system,  not  less  than  other  institutions  of  the  land,  has 
of  late  years  been  exposed  to  unsparing  aggression,  and  nothing 
less  than  its  ruin  will  satisfy  assailants.    We  wish  its  downfall 
averted,. in  the  persuasion  that  it  is  a  righteous  instrument  for  pro- 
moting an  host  of  objects,  each  of  which,  we  cannot  help  thinking,, 
is  worth  more  than  the  most  exaggerated  cost  of  the  lohole  ! 

ADDENDUM. 

List  of  Heritors — *  James  Balfour  of  Balgonie  ;  John  Balfour 
of  Balbirnie;  Drinkwater  Bethune  of  Balfour;  *  J.  E.  Wemyss 
of  Wemyss  Castle  ;  *  Earl  of  Rothes ;  Mrs  Col.  Fasten  of  Barns- 
lee  ;  *  United  College  of  St  Andrews;  G.  J.  Lindsay  of  Kirk- 
iorthar  ;  John  Landale  of  Man  ;  *J.  Johnston  of  Little  Lun  ;  John, 
Lawson  oi  Carieston  ;  George  Greig  of  Little  Balcurvie;  *  Ward- 
law  Ramsay  of  Balcurvie  ;  *  C.  M.  Christie  of  Durie  ;  J.  Simpson. 

•  Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  •  are  non-resident. 

XX 


690 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  Durie  Vale ;  *  D.  Millie  of  Cameron  Bridge  ;  A.  Mitcbel  of 
Colli ;  J.  Balfour  of  Ashgrove  ;  *  G.  Ballingall  of  Cariestoii 
Easter. 

June  1840. 


PARISH  OF  CARNOCK. 

PKESBYTERY  Oi'  DUNFEKMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  WILLIAM  GILSTON,  MINISTER. 


X,  TOPOGRAPHV  AND  NaTURAL  HiSTORY. 

.  ]sfame  In  the  former  Account  of  the  parish,  it  is  stated,  that 

the  words  cair  or  cairn,  and  knock,  (of  which  Carnock  is  supposed 
to  be  a  compound,)  signify  "  a  village,  or  collection  of  houses 
adjoining  to  a  small  hill."  Another  etymology  has  been  given, 
which  makes  the  name  signify  "a  cairn,  or  barrows  on  a  hill,"  and 
this,  probably,  is  the  true  derivation. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.— Th\s  parish  lies  very  compact,  being 
about  3  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  about  the  same  from  north 
to  south,  though  narrowing  considerably  in  the  latter  direction. 
Its  whole  extent  is  about  9  square  miles,  or  2260  square  acres. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  extreme  west  by  the  parish  of  Culross,  in  the 
county  of  Perth  ;  on  the  north-west,  by  the  parish  of  Sahne ;  on 
the  north-east  and  east,  by  that  of  Dunfermline;  and  on  the 
south  and  south-west,  by  that  of  Torryburn. 

Topographical  Appearances.— The  surface  is  pleasingly  undu- 
lating and  varied  ;  and  being  well  wooded,  present.s,  from  several 
points  of  view,  landscapes  of  considerable  beauty  and  richness. 
There  is  no  eminence  deserving  of  the  name  of  a  mountain  ; 
but  the  Camp's  Bank  and  Carneil  Hill,  which  form  a  continu- 
ous range  of  rising  ground,  are  of  considerable  elevation,  and 
command  extensive  views  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  and  the  adjacent 
country,  from  Stirling  on  the  west,  to  Edinburgh  on  the  east. 
I.uscar  Knolls,  or  Knoios,  also  the  Clune  of  Newbigging,  and  part 
of  the  Clune  farm,  which  lie  further  north,  and  are  somewhat 
more  elevated,  command  rich  and  varied  prospects;  and  from 
fnostof  them  are  seen  in  the  distance,  the  Ochils,  Benlomond, 


CARNOCK. 


G91 


and  other  western  mountains,  together  with  the  Pentland  hills, 
and  the  rising  grounds  to  the  east. 

Hjjdrography. — There  are  but  few  streams  in  the  parish,  and 
all  of  them  unimportant,  except  as  watering  the  localities  through 
which  they  flow.  They  run  from  east  to  west,  and  after  joining 
other  rivulets,  fall  into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  beyond  the  bounds  of 
the  parish.  From  external  appearances,  there  seem  to  be  a  few 
mineral  springs,  chiefly  of  the  chalybeate  kind ;  but  they  are  little 
attended  to.  Of  other  springs,  there  are  several,  which  are  all 
perennial,  and  which  furnish  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent  water 
for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants.  Under  this  head,  also,  should 
perhaps  be  mentioned  the  Ink  Craig,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
village  of  Carnock,  which  is  so  called  from  its  producing  a  liquid 
resembling  ink.  "  A  chemical  analysis,"  says  the  former  Account 
of  the  parish,  "  was  made  of  this  liquid  by  the  ingenious  Dr  Black, 
when  it  was  found  to  contain  a  mixture  of  coal,  flinty  earth,  and 
clay."  Its  appearance  to  the  eye  is  simply  that  of  water  oozing 
through  a  black  substance  resembling  coal,  with  which  it  has  be- 
come impregnated.  The  liquid  forms  a  very  tolerable  ink,  and 
might,  for  ordinary  purposes,  be  used  as  such. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — The  rocks  of  this  parish  are  chief- 
ly sandstone,  limestone,  and  different  varieties  of  trap.  The 
strata  dip  in  all  directions ;  but  in  the  north  side  of  the  parish, 
the  dip  is  generally  to  the  north-west,  north,  or  north-east;  while 
in  the  south,  the  dip  is  to  the  south  and  south-west.  Sandstone 
is  the  most  extensively  diffused  of  all  the  rocks,  being  met  with 
in  almost  every  part  of  the  parish  ;  and  in  one  part,  where  it  pre- 
sents a  continuous  bed  of  many  acres  extent,  and  of  great  thick- 
ness, lying  so  near  the  surface  as  to  be  entirely  exposed,  or  only 
partially  covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  moss  and  heath.  In  some 
places,  the  freestone  beds  seem  to  have  been  raised  by  an  under- 
movement  ;  and  hence  the  rock  is  frequently  found  in  a  shivered 
state,  and  sometimes  forming  knolls  above  the  more  compact  beds 
below. 

Trap  or  whinstone,  also,  is  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  many  of 
the  elevations  of  the  parish  are  formed  of  it.  Where  the  masses 
are  exposed,  they  are  usually  found  to  rest  upon  sandstone  or  lime- 
stone. Different  varieties  of  it  are  met  with ;  but  nowhere  does 
It  assume  the  columnar  form.  Greenstone  is  not  uncommon. 
Carniel  Hill  presents  us  with  loose  sand  and  freestone  raised  to  a 
considerable  elevation,  as  if  by  some  under-movement,  and  with 


692 


FIFESHIRR. 


masses  of  trap  overlying  these  like  a  cap.  On  the  top  of  the  hill, 
there  is  a  hollow  of  some  depth,  which  is  always  more  or  less 
filled  with  water,  and  which,  without  a  stretch  of  imagination, 
may  be  supposed  to  have  been  the  aperture  through  which  the 
igneous  matter  forced  itself.  Indeed,  the  appearance  of  the  trap, 
as  seen  distinctly  overcapping  the  sandstone,  and  forming  preci- 
pitous masses  on  one  side  of  the  hill,  strongly  countenances  the 
idea  of  its  having  partially  upheaved,  and  at  last  forced  its  way, 
when  in  a  liquid  state,  through  the  strata  on  which  it  now  rests. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village  of  Carnock,  there  is  a  bed 
of  white  indurated  clay,  apparently  of  considerable  depth  and  ex- 
tent, which  is  usually  denominated  caioni,  and  is  much  sought  after 
for  domestic  purposes.    It  dips  towards  the  south,  and  lies  im- 
mediately under  a  stratum  of  rich  soil  and  clay  of  considerable 
depth.     The  layers  are  very  regular  and  compact ;  but  the  jomts 
are  numerous,  and  extend  in  all  directions,  so  that  no  piece  of 
any  great  magnitude  is  ever  dug  out.    This  stone  receives  a  fine 
polish  :  and  being  so  soft  as  to  be  turned  on  an  ordinary  lathe, 
it  is  frequently  manufactured  into  small  articles.    The  bed  seems 
gradually  to  pass  into  the  strata  of  slaty  and  shaly  substances  that 
lie  to  the  east  of  it.    It  is  not  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  pa- 
rish, nor,  so  far  as  we  can  learn,  in  any  great  quantity  in  any  of 
the  neighbouring  parishes ;  and  hence,  as  it  is  in  some  request, 
it  is  carried  to  considerable  distances  for  sale. 

Ironstone  is  frequently  met  with  in  the  parish,  especially  on  the 
lands  of  Pitdinnies  and  Blair.  The  quality  is  considered  rich, 
particularly  of  that  which  is  found  on  the  Pitdinnies ;  but  on  nei- 
ther estate  has  the  ore  been  wrought. 

Coal  is  di[rused  generally  throughout  the  parish,  and  was  at  no 
distant  period  wrought  in  five  different  places.  The  only  mine 
at  present  in  operation,  is  on  the  estate  of  Blair,  in  the  west  of 
the  parish.  It  has  been  wrought  for  a  long  time  past,  but  with 
greater  spirit  of  late  years  than  formerly.  It  consists  of  four  dif- 
ferent seams  of  coal.  The  uppermost,  a  three  feet  seam,  is  a 
blind  coal,  used  by  brewers  and  maltsters.  The  others  are  house- 
coal  of  different  qualities,  and  are  6,  4,  and  2i  feet  in  thickness 
respectively.  Part  of  all  these  seaiTis  have  been  wrought,  and  are 
at  present  working.  The  produce,  which  is  about  2000  tons  an- 
nually, is  almost  wholly  used  in  home  consumption.  The  entire 
depth  of  the  pit,  which  is  at  present  wrought,  is  twenty-three  h- 
thoms.    A  dike  cuts  one  of  the  seams  near  to  the  pit,  causing  a 


GAIINOCK. 


693 


considerable  derangement  in  tlie  strata,  and  changing  altogether 
the  quality  of  the  coal.  The  coals  were,  till  of  late,  drawn  up  by 
a  horse  gin ;  but  a  small  engine,  upon  the  high  pressure  principle, 
which  was  set  up  for  keeping  the  pit  clear  of  water,  now  draws  up 
the  coals  also. 

The  coal  in  other  parts  of  the  parish,  though  not  wrought,  is 
not  exhausted.  On  the  north-east,  most  of  the  upper  seams, 
branching  off  from  Lord  Elgin's  coal-works,  in  the  parish  of  Dun- 
fermline, and  cropping  out  iii  Carnock,  have  been  wrought  out. 
The  lower  seams,  however,  have  not,  it  is  understood,  been  yet 
touched. 

Limestone  was  formerly  quarried  in  considerable  quantities  on 
the  lands  of  Luscar ;  but  though  it  still  exists  there  and  in  some 
other  spots,  none  is  at  present  wrought  in  any  part  of  the  parish. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  places  where  it  is  known  to  exist, 
there  sometimes  is  found  what  the  workmen  call  bastard,  limestone, 
or  a  mixture  of  whin  and  limestone.  * 

Freestone  is  quarried  in  several  places.  The  principal  quarry, 
however,  in  the  parish,  is  on  the  estate  of  Carnock,  where  the  rock 
is  of  great  extent  and  considerable  thickness,  and  may  be  wrought 
without  almost  any  tirring.  The  stone  of  this  quarry,  though 
somewhat  softer  than  the  freestone  in  the  south  part  of  the  parish, 
is  more  easily  quarried,  and  may  be  cut  out  of  almost  any  length. 
Owing  to  the  distance  from  water  carriage,  and  the  abundance  of 
excellent  freestone  in  the  neighbouring  districts,  the  demand  for 
stones  at  this  quarry  is  not  great,  except  in  the  immediate  locality. 
There  are  three  kinds  of  stone  in  the  bed  which  composes  this 
quarry :  the  first  being  white  and  soft  when  dug,  and  gradually 
hardening  when  exposed  to  the  weather;  the  second  being  of  a 
somewhat  darker  colour,  and  harder  quality  ;  and  the  third  being 
of  a  bluish-black  colour,  and  capable  of  receiving  a  fine  polish. 
This  last  lies  alongside  of  the  others  throughout  the  whole  extent 
of  the  bed,  and  seems  to  form  part  of  the  same  rock.  The  direc- 
tion and  dip  of  the  strata  appear,  so  far  as  they  can  be  traced,  to 
be  uniform  throughout  ;  and  the  fissures,  though  numerous, 
scarcely  occasion  any  derangement  in  the  component  parts  of  the 
rock.  Yet  the  stone  passes  from  the  one  colour,  to  the  other  frcr 
quently  in  the  smallest  discernible  space.  The  colouring  substance 
of  the  black  stone  is  evidently  of  a  bituminous  nature  ;  but  how  it 
should  have  impregnated  one  part  of  the  bed  and  not  the  other  is 
not  easily  accounted  for.    The  outer  portion  of  the  black  rock. 


694 


FIFESIIIRF. 


which  is  more  exposed  than  the  rest  of  the  quarry,  is,  in  some 
places,  broken  into  large  masses,  and  assumes  a  cliff-like  form. 
But  whether  the  mass  may  have  been,  at  any  former  period,  sub- 
merged under  any  fluid  which  could  have  given  it  its  dark  hue, 
can  only  be  matter  of  conjecture.    It  is  certain,  that  the  substan- 
ces, which  at  present  are  thinly  spread  over  its  surface,  could  not 
have  produced  this  effect ;  for  they  are  the  same  as  these  \vhich 
partially  cover  the  face  of  the  while  portion  of  the  rock.    In  the 
former  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish,  the  writer,  speaking  of 
the  black  rock,  says,  "  This  stone  will  stand  the  fire,  and  the 
longer  it  is  exposed  to  it,  it  becomes  the  more  durable,  and  con- 
tracts the  blacker  hue."    This,  however,  is  a  mistake ;  for  the  fact 
is,  that  this  stone,  when  subjected  to  the  heat  of  an  ordinary  fire, 
soon  becomes  red-hot,  loses  entirely  its  black  colour,  exhibits  to 
the  eye  a  coarser  texture  than  before,  and  is  more  friable. 

No  fossil  organic  remains  belonging  to  the  animal  kingdom  have 
been,  so  far  as  is  known,  found  at  any  time  in  the  rocks  of  this  pa- 
rish. A  few  belonging  to  the  vegetable  kingdom  have  been  met  with, 
which  were  chiefly  lepidodendrons.  And,  as  marking  the  action  of 
the  watery  element,  it  may  be  mentioned,  that  some  of  the  slabs 
\\hich  have  been  dug  out  of  the  freestone  quarry  on  the  Carnock 
estate  show  very  distinctly  the  ripple  of  the  wave  upon  them. 

The  chief  alluvial  deposits  are  sand,  gravel,  loam,  clay,  and 
moss.    In  the  last  mentioned  of  these,  trees  in  a  considerable  state 
of  preservation  are  found  imbedded.    The  soil  varies  much^  and 
often  within  a  small  space.    In  the  southern  division  of  the  parish 
it  is  more  fertile  ;  yet  in  some  of  the  northern  parts  it  is  scarcely 
inferior.    But  the  difference  of  exposure  gives  a  considerable  ad- 
vantage to  the  former  in  point  of  climate.    In  some  places,  the 
soils  have  much  depth  ;  but  generally  they  are  the  reverse, — rest- 
ing principally  on  sandstone,  whinstone,  and  a  hard  clayey  subsoil, 
rather  wet  than  otherwise,  and  consisting  chiefly  of  loam,  clay,  and 
gravel.    Boulders  are  frequently  met  with  near  the  surface ;  but 
none  of  them  have  been  found  of  any  great  size.    They  consist 
chiefly  of  whin.    Moles  are  frequent  in  the  loamy  soils.    But  the 
tarmers  seem  not  to  consider  therfi  hurtful,  as  no  mole-catchers  are 
employed  in  the  parish. 

Zoology. — The  birds  are  those  ordinarily  met  with  in  the  dis- 
trict. The  very  rare  visitant,  the  greater  butcher-bird,  was  seen  in 
the  parish  in  the  spring  of  1838.  The  whinchat,  a  bird  rather 
uncommon  in  the  district,  is  occasionally  found  here.  Snowflakes 


CARNOCK. 


appeal-  in  large  flights  during-  severe  winters.  Attempts  have  been 
made  to  introduce  the  pheasant ;  but  the  want  of  proper  covers 
and  the  depredations  of  the  poacher  have  prevented  their  success. 
An  individual  of  the  species,  however,  is  occasionally  seen. 

Botany. —  Of  the  rarer  plants,  the  following,  kindly  pointed  out 
to  me  by  Andrew  Dewar,  Esq.  surgeon,  Dunfermline,  may  be 
mentioned.    Their  localities  are  added  : — 

Eleochaiis  multicaulis,  Carnock  Moor  .Menlha  viridis,  Cariieil 

Melica  nutans,  Blair  Dean   variety  crispa,  Do. 

Galium  uliginosum,  Do.  Ijamium  maculatum,  of  Reichenbach,  Do. 

I'otamogeton  hetero|)hyllum,  Carnock  M.  Nasturtium  sylvtstre,  Bcnhard 

Primula  elatior,  Pitdinnies  Corydalis  claviculata,  Carnock  Moor 

Trientalis  Europsea,  Clune  Senecio  savacenicus,  Do. 

S:ixifraga  tridactylites,  Carneil  Ophioglossum  vulgatum,  Carneil. 
Chelidonium  majus,  Carnock  village 

The  rein-deer  moss  is  found  in  considerable  profusion  in  Car- 
nock Moor. 

Wood. — The  plantations  in  this  parish  cover  several  hundred  acres 
of  ground  ;  and,  being  laid  out  with  considerable  taste  and  skill, 
they  serve  both  to  beautify  and  shelter  the  lands.  They  consist 
chiefly  of  the  different  kinds  of  fir,  intermixed  with  oaks,  elms, 
planes,  &:c.  On  the  lands  of  Clune  there  is,  besides  several  belts  and 
hedge- rows  of  trees,  a  considerable  plantation  of  Scotch  firs,  of 
nearly  a  hundred  years  growth,  and  of  superior  quality.  And  on 
the  same  estate,  there  is  a  large  clump  of  aged  beeches,  which 
both  shelter  and  ornament  the  surrounding  grounds.  In  Luscar 
Dean,  which  is  all  planted,  and  where  a  few  trees  of  considerable 
age  and  height  are  found,  there  was  a  venerable  beech,  of  which 
mention  is  made  in.  the  former  Account  of  the  parish,  evidently  of 
great  antiquity,  but  the  age  of  which  was  unknown.  It  was  digni- 
fied by  the  name  of  the  "  Queen  of  the  Dean."  Growing  on  the 
slope  of  a  confined  glen,  and  closely  surrounded  with  other  trees, 
it  was  not  seen  to  advantage.  But  even  near  at  hand  it  appeared 
a  magnificent  tree.  Its  girth  at  the  ground  was  16  feet,  and  at 
seven  feet  above  that  point,  13  feet  8  inches.  Of  the  two  large 
limbs  into  which  it  separated,  the  one  was  9  feet  thick,  and  the 
other  nearly  the  same.  Its  height  was  upwards  of  100  feet.  This 
tree,  however,  was  blown  down  one  stormy  night  in  the  spring  of 
last  year. 

Of  late  years,  a  large  number  of  trees,  which  must  have  been 
planted  above  a  hundred  years  ago  by  Colonel  Erskine,  and  which 
had  attained  their  full  growth,  or  were  partially  going  into  decay, 
have  been  cut  down  on  the  estate  of  Carnock.  A  considerable 
number,  however,  evidently  planted  by  the  same  spirited  gentle- 


696 


FIFESHIUK. 


man,  and  disposed  chiefl)'  in  rows,  still  remain.  They  consist 
principally  of  oak,  plane,  ash,  and  beech.  One  of  the  beeches, 
which  grows  near  the  village,  is  worthy  of  notice,  both  for  its  size, 
being  11  feet  10  inches  in  circumference  at  the  ground,  and  11 
feet  3  inches  at  seven  feet  from  the  ground  ;  and  especially  for  its 
long,  pendulous,  and  limber  branches,  which,  when  the  tree  is  in 
full  flourish,  give  it  an  appearance  of  singular  beauty.  Upwards 
of  a  hundred  acres  of  this  estate  lying  together  were  planted  nearly 
forty  years  ago,  besides  patches  of  considerable  extent  at  different 
periods  since. 

On  the  lands  of  Blair,  the  plantations  cover  about  120  acres; 
some  of  them  upwards  of  seventy,  and  others  of  them  thirty,  and 
fifteen  years  old.  They  are  all  in  a  thriving  state,  and  profitable. 
Those  which  are  near  the  mansion-house  are  tastefully  disposed 
and  ornamental.  The  southern  part  of  the  parish,  comprehend- 
ing Whinny  hill,  and  the  Pitdinnies,  shews  also  several  belts  of 
planting  judiciously  placed,  and  these,  together  with  an  extensive 
plantation  on  the  immediately  neighbouring  grounds,  skirting  along 
the  whole  eastern  boundary  of  the  above  named  farms,  and  lying 
partly  within  the  parish,  give  this  district  also  the  appearance  of 
being  well  wooded. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
The  principal  notices  regarding  this  parish  are  to  be  found  in 
its  session  records,  and  in  the  records  of  the  Presbytery  of  Dun- 
fermline.    From  these,  it  appears  to  have  been  formerly  of  much 
smaller  extent  than  it  is  at  present :— comprehending  only  the 
barony  of  Carnock,  which  included  the  present  estate  of  Carnock, 
together  with  the  lands  of  Blair,  and  Easter  and  Wester  Camps. 
The  Pitdinnies,  the  lands  of  Luscar,  and  those  of  Clune,  origin- 
ally belonged  to  the  parish  of  Dunfermline,  and  were  disjoined 
from  it,  and  annexed  to  Carnock  in  the  commencement  of  the  year 
1650.    The  following  entry  is  found  in  the  Presbytery  record, 
August  19,  1619.    "The  Presbytery  having  considered  the  re- 
port of  Mr  John  Dunn  and  James  Sibbald,  appointed  to  peram- 
bulate and  consider  the  distance  of  Pittdinnies,  Easter  and  Wes- 
ter Luskar,  and  the  Clune,  from  the  kirk  of  Dunfermline  and  the 
kirk  of  Carnock,  they  find  it  necessary  that  the  said  landis  be  dis- 
joined from  the  kirk  of  Dunfermline,  and  annexed  to  the  kirk  of 
Carnock ;  and  recommend  the  same  to  the  commissione  for  the 
plantation  of  kirks,  to  be  ratified  by  their  authoritie."    And  from 
a  subsequent  entry,  it  appears  that  this  recommendation  was  car- 


CAllNOCK. 


697 


ried  into  effect  in  the  following  year.  Sibbald,  in  his  History  of 
Fife  savs,  that  « the  Lord  Lyndsay  of  Byres  got  this  parish  by 
marriage  of  a  brother  daughter  of  Dalhousie ;  and  they  kept  it 
till  King  Jame  VI.'s  time,  that  Sir  George  Bruce,  the  predeces- 
sor of  the  Earls  of  Kincardine,  got  it."  The  Acts  of  the  Parlia- 
ment of  Scotland  1609,  inform  us  that  the  lands  of  Pitdinnies 
were  conveyed  to  Edward  Bruce  of  Kinloss,  and  his  wife,  along 
with  the  patronage  of  the  kirk  and  parish  of  Torrie,  The  char- 
ter conveying  the  barony  of  Carnock,  with  the  patronage  of  the 
kirk  thereof,  to  Sir  George  Bruce,  is  dated,  as  appears  from  the' 
same  Acts  of  Parliament,  the  4th  May  1602.  From  the  same 
writing  we  learn,  that  the  church  of  Carnock  belonged  originally 
to  the  ministry  of  Scotland-well,  and  was  disjoined  from  it  when 
Sir  George  Bruce  received  infefcment  of  the  barony. 

Chalmers  in  his  Caledonia  says,  that  "in  the  year  eighty-three 
of  the  Christian  era,  Agricola  the  Roman  general,  in  endeavour- 
ing to  conquer  the  northern  parts  of  Scotland,  passed  the  Forth, 
and  encamped  his  army  in  the  now  parish  of  Carnock."  And  the 
circumstance  that  the  name  Camps  is  given  to  one  of  the  localities 
in  the  parish,  and  that  several  Roman  urns  were  dug  up  some 
years  ago  on  Carneil  hill,  renders  his  statement  probable.  He 
says  again,  "  Upon  Carneil  hill,  near  Carnock,  the  Horestii  ap- 
pear to  have  had  a  strength,  as  we  might  learn  from  the  prefix  of 
the  name  :  the  caer  of  the  British  signifying  a  fort."* 

Eminent  Men. — The  connection  of  the  Bruces  with  this  parish 
appears,  from  what  has  been  already  mentioned,  to  have  commen- 
ced in  the  year  1602.  Edward  Bruce,  the  first  Lord  Kinloss, 
"  was  a  man  of  superior  talents,  learning,  and  integrity,"  and  was 
eminently  instrumental  in  the  peaceable  accession  of  James  VI.  to 
the  throne  of  England.    His  second  son,  Thomas,  third  Lord 

'  The  people  of  Carnock  were  formerly  staunch  Covenanters.  The  following  no- 
tice regarding  the  first  swearing  of  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant  is  worthy  of  be- 
ing recorded.  It  is  extracted  from  the  earliest  of  the  session  records,  and  is  in  the 
handwriting  of  John  Row.  "  The  5  of  November  1643.  The  covenant  of  tliir  three- 
kingdoms,  Scotland,  England,  and  Irland,  wes  solemnlie  sworne  to,  and  subscribit 
be  the  parishioners  of  Carnock,  and  all  that  cude  wreat  subscribit  their  names  in  the- 
book  qrin  the  printed  covenant  was,  and  the  rest  of  the  parishioners  ytculd  not  sub- 
scribe themselves  subscribit  be  Jhone  Andersone,  Notar  pvblik  Dunferlyne,  he- 
tuiching  their  hands  as  the  use  is,  at  the  communion  table  in  the  kirk  of  Carnok,  as- 
the  book  qlk  is  in  ray  possession  will  testifie.  Qlk  action  was  done  verrie  solemnlie 
after  I  had  taught  the  historie  of  Joshua's  covenant,  Josh.  24  cap.  fra  the  14  verse- 
to  the  29."  Again,  during  the  ministry  of  Mr  Belfragc,  we  find  the  following  entry. 
"  Dec.  17,  1648,  The  quhilk  day  the  Solemne  League  and  Covenant  was  rcnewit 
and  sworne,  and  the  public  confession  of  sins  was  read  over  iigaine.  The  fast  was. 
lykewise  solemnlie  kept  this  day. 


G98 


FiFESIimE. 


Kinloss,  was  created  Earl  of  Elgin,  by  patent,  dated  21st  June 
1663.  Sir  George  Bruce  of  Carnock  appears  to  have  been  a 
person  of  ability  and  sagacity.  He  settled  at  Culross,  where  he 
established  extensive  and  flourishing  coal-works.  He  was  repre- 
sentative for  the  burgh  of  Culross  in  the  Scottish  Parliament,  and 
appears  to  have  been  frequently  on  the  commission  for  the  plan- 
tation of  kirks.  Edward,  his  grandson,  was  created  Earl  of  Kin- 
cardine, and  Lord  Bruce  of  Torrie,  in  1647;  and  dying  without 
issue,  was  succeeded  in  his  title  and  estates  by  his  brother  Alex- 
ander. The  character  of  Alexander,  as  drawn  by  Bishop  Burnet, 
shews  him  to  have  been  no  ordinary  man.  He  died  in  1680,  and 
was  succeeded  by  his  son  Alexander,  third  Earl  of  Kincardine, 
in  whose  time  the  estate  of  Carnock  was  brought  to  a  judicial 
sale,  and  came  into  the  possession  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  John 
Erskine. 

From  statements  made  in  the  session  records,  it  appears  that 
the  Earls  of  Kincardine  occasionally  held  baronial  courts  at  Car- 
nock, and  sometimes  assumed  the  power  of  expelling  the  refrac- 
tory from  the  parish. 

Among  other  individuals  who  have  resided  in  the  parish,  or 
who  have  been  connected  with  it  by  birth  or  office,  there  are  a 
few  whose  names  deserve  to  be  mentioned  as  having  honourably 
distinguished  themselves,  either  by  the  influence  which  their  coun- 
sel and  example  exercised,  or  by  the  active  part  which  they  took 
in  questions  of  public  interest.  Of  these,  not  the  least  distin- 
guished was  the  above-mentioned  Colonel  Erskine,  who  became 
proprietor  of  the  barony  of  Carnock  in  the  year  1700.  He  was 
son  of  David,  second  Lord  Cardross,  and  of  Mary,  sister  to  the 
first  Earl  of  Kincardine.  Being  a  zealous  Presbyterian,  he  was 
a  determined  opponent  of  whatever  measures  tended  to  injure  the 
Presbyterian  cause.  He  was  frequently  returned  as  elder  from 
the  Presbytery  of  Dunfermline  to  the  General  Assembly,  and  was 
one  of  the  three  commissioners  whom  the  Assembly  of  1735  sent 
to  London  for  the  purpose  of  endeavouring  to  effect  a  repeal  of 
the  Act  of  the  10th  of  Queen  Anne,  restoring  patronage.  He  is 
spoken  of  also  as  a  zealous  and  successful  agriculturist,  and  the 
estate  of  Carnock  still  bears  marks  of  the  attention  which  he  paid 
to  planting. 

The  colonel  was  succeeded  in  his  estate  of  Carnock  by  his  eldest 
son  John,  who  became  a  distinguished  member  of  the  Scotch  Bar, 
and  was,  for  a  long  period  of  his  life,  Professor  of  Scotch  Law  in 


CARNOCK. 


693 


the  University  of  Edinburgh.  The  well  known  Institutes  of  the 
Professor  were  composed,  it  is  said,  in  his  house  of  Newbigging, 
in  this  parish,  where  he  usually  resided  during  the  summer  months. 
He  resided  latterly  at  Cardross,  in  Monteith,  where  he  died  in  the 
year  1767. 

The  property  belonging  to  the  family  in  this  parish  descended 
to  his  eldest  son,  the  late  Dr  John  Erskine  of  Edinburgh.  The 
doctor,  who  was  an  eminent  minister  of  the  Church  of  Scotland, 
and  whose  "worth  and  talents  were  well  known  and  highly  appre- 
ciated both  at  home  and  abroad,  was  first  settled  at  Kirkintilloch, 
afterwards  at  Culross,  in  the  Presbytery  of  Dunfermline,  and  final- 
ly was  translated  to  the  Old  Greyfriars,  Edinburgh,  where  he 
had  for  his  colleague  the  celebrated  Principal  Robertson.  Dur- 
ing the  period  of  his  residence  in  Edinburgh,  he  took  an  active 
part  in  church  afiairs  ;  and  as  to  much  energy  of  character,  and 
great  industry,  he  joined  an  ardent  piety  and  an  enlightened  zeal, 
he  contributed  not  a  little  to  maintain  the  purity  and  the  efficiency  of 
the  Scottish  Kirk.  Like  several  of  his  ancestors,  he  was  a  warm 
friend  both  of  religious  and  civil  liberty.  His  thirst  after  know- 
ledge was  great,  and  continued  unabated  to  his  death,  which  hap- 
pened A.  D.  1803,  in  the  eighty-second  year  of  his  age,  and  the 
fifty-eighth  of  his  ministry. 

Another  individual  long  connected  with  this  parish  by  office, 
was  Mr  John  Row.  He  seems  to  have  been  the  third  minister  of 
it  after  the  Reformation.*  Livingston,  in  his  memoirs  as  quoted 
by  Gillies,  says,  that  "  he  was  a  godly,  zealous  man,  who  was  care- 
ful to  collect  the  most  observable  passages  of  Providence  in  his 
time.  He  helped  at  the  General  Assembly  at  Glasgow  1638,  to 
discover  sundry  corruptions  of  the  former  time."  His  father, 
who  was  one  of  the  Reformers,  and  who  was  a  distinguished  He- 
brew  scholar,  and  the  first  that  taught  that  language  in  Scotland, 
early  initiated  him  into  the  knowledge  of  the  Hebrew,  so  that  when 
eight  years  of  age  he  read  the  Hebrew  chapter  in  the  family. 
Being  firmly  attached  to  the  Presbyterian  Church  government, 
and  an  enemy  to  the  encroachments  of  Episcopacy,  he  suffered 
frequent  hardships  in  consequence,  during  the  ascendancy  of  the 
latter.  But,  being  much  respected  for  his  piety  and  integrity,  he, 
though  a  nonconformist,  was  permitted  to  live  at  his  charge ;  and 

•  D.ivid  Ferguson,  afterwards  minister  of  Dunfermlinp,  and  James  Stewart,  were 
his  predecessors.  Vide  Row's  Ilistorie,  p.  471 ,  just  published  by  the  Wodrow  Society. 


700 


FIFESIIIRE. 


after  mourning  for  a  long  period  over  the  defections  under  Pre- 
lacy, he  was  privileged  to  witness  its  overthrow,  and  to  assist  in 
effecting  the  second  Reformation,  His  father-in-law,  (he  cele- 
brated David  Ferguson,  first  Presbyterian  minister  of  Dunfermline, 
and  coadjutor  of  John  Knox,  began  to  write  a  history  of  the 
Church  of  Scotland,  which  Mr  Row  continued.  This  history, 
which  consists  chiefly  of  an  abridgement  of  the  Acts  of  the  Gene- 
ral Assembly,  and  which  bears  the  name  of  Row's  MS.,  has  been 
published  both  by  the  Wodrow  Society,  and  the  Maitland  Club. 

Mr  Row  was  settled  minister  of  Carnock  in  1592,  and  died 
June  26th  1646,  aged  seventy-eight  years.* 

The  eldest  son  of  Mr  Row  was  named  John,  and  attained  to 
such  eminence  both  for  his  literary  accomplishments,  and  for  his 
zeal  in  church  affairs,  that  he  deserves  to  be  mentioned  in  con- 
nection with  his  native  parish.  He  was  for  some  time  rector  of 
the  grammar-school  at  Kirkaldy,  and  was  afterwards  translated  to 
the  rectorship  of  that  of  Perth,  where  he  taught  during  twenty 
years  with  distinguished  ability  and  success.  Subsequently,  he 
turned  his  attention  more  particularly  to  the  church,  and  having 
gone  to  Aberdeen  he  was  ordained  one  of  the  ministers  of  that 
city.  In  1652,  he  was  appointed  Principal  of  King's  College, 
Old  Aberdeen,  in  room  of  Dr  Guild,  who  had  been  deposed  the 
preceding  year.  When  at  the  head  of  this  college,  he  gave  great 
encouragement  to  learning,  and  was  much  respected.  He  was  de- 
prived of  his  office  of  Principal  after  the  Restoration  in  1661. 

*  His  death  is  thus  noted  in  the  session  records  :  "  Junnie  28. — My  father,  Mr 
Johne  Row  of  worthie  memorie,  being  departed  this  life,  I,  his  youngest  sone,  Mr 
William  How,  minister  of  Seres,  did  preach,  and  after  sermone  did  hold  session." 
His  monument  in  the  church-yard  here,  which  seems  to  be  of  considerable  antiquity, 
though  the  date  of  its  erection  is  unknown,  has  llie  following  Latin  inscription  in 
raised  capitals  :  "  Hie  jacet  M.  Jo.  Row,  pastor  hujus  Ecclesiee  Fideliss.  visit  ac- 
cerriraus  veritatisct  foederis  Scoticani  assertor  :  Hierarchias  Pseudoepiscopalis  et  Ro- 
manorum  rituura  cordicitus  osor  :  in  frequenti  symmystarura  apostasia  eubi  instar 
constantissimus,  Duxit  Gricelidem  Fergusoniam,  cum  qua  annis  51  conjunctissime 
vixit.  Huic  F.cclesiae  annis.  54  prjel'uit.  Obiit  Junnii  26,  anno  Oom.  1646,  setatis  78. 
Obiit  et  ilia  Januarii  30,  1659. 

On  another  part  of  Row's  monument  is  the  following  inscription  :  "  Here  lyes 
Adam  Stobie  of  Wester  Luskar,  born  1620,  died  1711,  and  Margaret  Gibbon,  grand- 
child  to  Mr  John  Row,  born  1630,  died  1670."  This  Mr  Stobie,  who  belonged  to 
the  parish,  was  a  zealous  Covenanter,  and  met,  in  consequence,  with  much  hard  usage. 
Botli  tradition,  and  the  facts  mentioned  by  Wodrow,  fully  establish  the  truth  of  the 
following  statement  regarding  him  in  tlie  Religious  Monitor  for  October  1808. 
*'  He  was  a  gentleman  much  respected  in  the  country,  a  man  of  great  spirit  and  ex- 
emplary piety.  His  house  was  the  resort  of  many  of  the  ministers  and  others  who 
were  persecuted  for  conscience  sake,  in  the  profligate  reign  of  Charles  1 1.  He  him- 
self was  fined,  iuiprisoned,  sent  to  the  Bass,  and  condemned  to  be  transported  beyond 
seas ;  but  by  a  wonderful  interposition  of  Providence,  was  landed  in  England,  and 
got  safe  home  to  his  family." 


CARNOCK. 


701 


Orem,inhis  History  of  Aberdeen,  says,  that  he  demitted  his  charge. 
He  published  a  grammar  and  vocabulary  of  the  Hebrew  lan- 
guage, besides  several  tracts,  both  of  a  political  and  of  a  religious 
kind. 

Nor  should  we  omit  to  mention  Mr  Row's  immediate  successor, 
the  Rev.  George  Belfrage,  who  was  ordained  minister  of  this  pa- 
rish in  the  year  1647,  and  who  appears  to  have  been  distinguish- 
ed for  his  piety  and  zeal.  He  lived  in  troublous  times,  and  suffer- 
ed for  his  attachment  to  the  principles  of  the  second  Reformation. 
Being  amoiig  the  nonconformists  in  the  time  of  Archbishop  Sharpe, 
he  was  first  suspended,  and  then  deposed  from  the  ministry  by  ap- 
pointment of  that  prelate. 

Connected  with  this  parish  also,  as  minister  for  nearly  thirty- 
five  years,  was  the  Rev.  James  Hog,  an  able,  learned,  and  pious 
man.  After  his  return  from  Holland,  whither  he  had  gone  to 
complete  his  education,  he  received  license  as  a  preacher  in  the 
Scottish  Church,  and  was  first  settled  as  minister  of  Dalserf. 
While  here,  he  became  involved  in.  a  dispute  with  his  Presbytery 
in  consequence  of  his  opposition  to  the  oaths  of  allegiance  and  ab- 
juration. Though  of  undoubted  royalty,  yet  he  greatly  dreaded 
theerastian  principles  which  appeared  to  him  to  bespreading,  and 
felt  himself  constrained  to  testify  against  them.  Subsequently  he 
demitted  his  charge  at  Dalserf,  and  did  not  for  some  years  accept 
of  another.  In  1699,  however,  he  became  minister  of  Carnock, 
and  continued  to  labour  there  with  general  acceptance  and  much 
success  till  his  death.  The  same  piety  and  the  same  zeal  for  the 
liberties  and  the  efficiency  of  the  church  as  he  had  shown  before, 
distinguished  him  now.  He  took  an  active  share  in  the  Marrow 
controversy,  and  was  one  of  those  who,  in  the  year  1720,  were 
censured  by  the  General  Assembly  on  account  of  it.  The  first 
edition  of  the  Marrow  published  in  Scotland  was  prefaced  by  him, 
and,  besides  some  of  the  ablest  tracts  that  appeared  in  its  defence, 
he  wrote  several  other  piece.s  of  considerable  merit.  He  died  in 
the  year  1736,  leaving  behind  him  a  name  for  distinguished  worth 
and  usefulness. 

Another  minister  of  this  parish  was  the  celebrated  Thomas  Gil- 
lespie, afterwards  founder  of  the  Presbytery  of  Relief.  He  was 
licensed  to  preach  the  gospel  in  the  year  1740,  and  in  the  year  fol- 
lowing was  ordained  by  a  class  of  Dissenting  ministers  in  England, 
of  which  Dr  Doddridge  was  moderator.  The  same  year  he  re- 
ceived  a  call  to  this  parish,  and  was  settled  in  it  on  the  4th  Sep- 


702 


fifesiiire. 


tember.*  In  the  discharge  of  his  pastoral  duties  while  in  Car- 
nock,  Mr  Gillespie  showed  great  diligence  and  fidelity.  And 
though  there  are  few  now  alive  who  have  any  personal  recollec- 
tion of  him,  yet  his  memory  is  still  cherished  throughout  the  dis- 
trict. Having,  with  other  members  of  his  Presbytery,  refused  to 
attend,  or  to  acquiesce  in  the  settlement  of  Mr  Richardson  at  In- 
verkeithing,  he  was  summarily  deposed  by  the  General  Assembly 
of  1752.  This  sentence  of  deposition  he  received  with  the  Christ- 
ian meekness  which  uniformly  marked  his  demeanour.  And 
whatever  opinion  may  be  entertained  of  that  part  of  his  conduct 
which  constituted  the  sole  ground  of  the  sentence  pronounced 
against  him,  no  one  will  question  but  that  he  was  actuated  by  a 
sense  of  duty.  His  deposition,  however,  gave  rise  to  a  new  sect  of 
Dissenters.  But  he  himself  continued  "  partial  to  the  Establish- 
ment to  the  end  of  his  life ;  and  of  this  he  gave  a  striking  proof, 
when,  on  his  deathbed,  he  advised  his  congregation  to  apply  to 
the  church  after  his  decease,  to  be  restored  to  her  communion  : 
which  they  afterwards  successfully  did."  His  death  happened  in 
the  beginning  of  the  year  1774. 

Before  closing  these  notices,  it  is  right  to  mention  the  name  of 
Mr  Thomas  Marshall,  who  was  a  minister  of  Carnock  in  the  time 
of  Episcopacy,  and  who  seems  to  have  suffered  for  his  adherence 
to  it.  The  following  entry  regarding  him  is  found  in  the  session- 
record  of  the  period :  "  Sep.  4,  1689,  Mr  Tho.  Marschal,  minis- 
ter, was  silenced  by  the  counsell,  in  not  giving  obedience  to  qt 

*  An  idle  report  has  been  circulated,  and  gained  credit  in  certain  quarters,  that 
Mr  Gillespie,  before  his  induction,  subscribed  the  confession  and  formula  with  re- 
servations and  explanations  regarding  the  power  of  the  civil  magistrate.  Whatever 
opinions  he  may  have  entertained  on  this  subject,  it  is  certain  that  he  tendered  no  ex- 
planation regarding  it  to  the  presbytery,  wlien  he  adhibited  the  usual  subscription. 
And  we  believe  that  he  was  too  single-minded  and  honest  a  man  to  subscribe  with 
any  mental  reservation.  The  following  extracts,  however,  from  the  minutes  of  Pies- 
bytery,  and  from  the  book  which  contains  the  usual  autograph  signatuies  to  the  for- 
mula, should,  it  is  thought,  set  the  matter  at  rest.  After  narrating  certain  circum- 
stances connected  with  Mr  Gillespie's  residence  in  England,  &c.  the  minute  of  Pres- 
bytery proceeds  :  After  all  which,  the  Presbytery  being  satisfied  with  what  hjd 
been  offered,  Mr  Gillespie  was  called  in,  and  havii.g  declared  his  adherence  to  the 
doctrine,  worship,  and  government  of  this  church,  and  judicially  signed  the  Confes- 
sion of  Faith  and  formula,  the  moderator  put  the  call  from  Carnock  into  bis  hand, 
which  he  judicially  accepted  of,  upon  which  Mr  Wardlaw  took  instruments,  and  the 
Presbytery  appoint  the  settlement  to  take  place,  Friday,  4th  September. '  Then 
in  the  book  containing  the  formula  is  the  following  entry  in  Mr  Gille-pie's  own 
handwriting:  "  Dunferniling,  August  19th  1741,  I,  Mr  Thomas  Gillespie,  minis- 
ter of  the  gospel,  do  subscribe  the  above  written  Confession  of  Faith  as  the  confession 
of  my  faith,  according  to  the  above  written  formula.  Witness  my  hand  at  Dunferm- 
ling,  the  19th  day  of  August  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  forty-one.  Tlios. 
Gillespie." 


CAR  NOCK. 


703 


then  was  enjoyn'd."  The  same  record  shows  him  to  have  been 
diligent  and  exemplary  in  the  performance  of  his  pastoral  duties. 

Land-oioners. — The  principal  land-owners  of  the  parish,  ar- 
ranged according  to  the  extent  of  their  property  in  it,  are,  John 
Stuart,  Esq.  of  Carnock ;  Sir  Peter  Halket  of  Pitfirrane,  Bart.; 
Adam  Rolland,  Esq.  of  Gask  ;  Lady  Buchan  Hepburn  of  Smea- 
ton  Hepburn ;  and  Mrs  Mill  of  Blair. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parochial  registers,  which  consist  of 
minutes  of  session,  records  of  marriages,  birth,  and  burials,  and 
accounts  of  collections  and  disbursements,  commence  in  1642, 
and  come  down,  with  a  few  intervals,  to  the  present  time.  They 
are  comprised  in  eleven  volumes  of  various  sizes,  some  of  which 
are  much  injured,  and  one  of  them  the  duplicate  of  another  that 
is  now  scarcely  legible.  An  earlier  volume  than  any  of  the  pre- 
sent seems  once  to  have  existed ;  but  it  appears  not  to  have  con- 
tinued long  in  the  hands  of  the  session,  as  the  following  entry  in 
the  record  intimates:  "  Junii  20,  1647,  The  kirk  registers  were 
produced,  viz.  the  covenant  and  declaration,  the  acts  of  the  Gene- 
ral Assembly  holden  at  Glasgow  16.38,  &c.  The  old  session  book 
was  amissing."  The  loss  of  this  volume  is  much  to  be  regretted, 
because  it  evidently  comprehended  the  early  part  of  Mr  Row's  mi- 
nistry, and  would  probably  have  thrown  much  light  on  the  state  of 
the  parish  at  that  period.  The  covenant  also,  another  precious 
relic,  with  its  signatures,  disappeared  at  a  subsequent  time. 

The  first  of  the  existing  volumes  wants  thirteen  leaves  at  the 
beginning.  It  contains  the  minutes  of  session  from  January  30, 
1642,  to  February  16,  1662;  as  also  an  account  of  collections  and 
disbursements,  and  a  few  notices  of  baptisms.  The  first  part  of 
this  volume  appears  to  be  in  the  handwriting  of  Mr  Row,  and 
contains  several  interesting  particulars,  both  of  a  local  and  a  gene- 
ral character.  The  greater  part  of  the  remainder  of  the  volume, 
which  comprehends  the  incumbency  of  Mr  Belfrage,  seems  to 
have  been  written  by  the  schoolmaster  of  the  time.  This  latter 
fact  is  noticed  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  the  writing,  which 
shows  the  schoolmaster  of  that  period  to  have  been  a  superior 
penman  to  most  of  the  clerks  that  succeeded  him,  and  which  in- 
dicates a  higher  degree  of  literary  attainment  than  what  some  men 
are  willing  to  admit  as  belonging  to  the  time. 

The  principal  blanks  in  the  registers  are  from  February  1662, 
to  February  1665,  and  from  March  2,  1693,  to  October  23,  1699. 
The  more  early  of  these  records  throw  considerable  light  on  the 


704 


FIPESHIttE. 


times  to  which  thoy  refer,  and  bear  a  strong  testimony  to  the  ad- 
vantages which  the  country  at  hirge  derives  from  the  National 
Church,  and  show  with  what  intelligence  and  zeal  the  men  who 
then  administered  her  affairs  laboured  to  reform  a  rude  people, 
and  to  promote  their  intellectual  and  moral  advancement.  The 
discipline  exercised  was  strict  and  minute.  And,  though  the 
power  that  was  sometimes  assumed  may  now  appear  unwarrant- 
able, yet,  when  we  consider  the  state  of  the  times  referred  to,  and 
the  faithful  ministrations  with  which  it  was  accompanied,  we  shall 
be  constrained  to  admit  both  that  it  was  not  overstretched,  and 
that  it  was  used  simply  with  a  view  to  the  good  of  the  people 
themselves.  Indeed,  almost  all  beneficial  undertakings  seem  to 
have  then  originated  with  the  Established  Church,  or  to  have 
been  countenanced  and  furthered  by  her.  The  interests  of  edu- 
cation, the  maintenance  of  the  poor,  the  ransoming  of  such  as  had 
been  carried  into  slavery,  the  repairing  of  damage  occasioned  by 
fire,  the  building  or  improving  of  harbours,  bridges,  and  other 
public  works — these  objects,  in  addition  to  the  more  peculiar  du- 
ties of  their  office,  engaged  the  attention  of  ministers  and  elders, 
and  showed  them  to  have  been  men  of  sagacity  and  benevolence 
no  less  than  of  piety.* 

*  The  following  extracts  may  be  regarded  as  confirmatory  of  these  remarks,  as  well 
as  interesting  in  themselves  :— "  The  3  of  November  1643,  We,  ministeris  of  the  Pres. 
♦  byterie  of  Dunfer.  haifing  resolvit  to  intertene  a  bursar  at  the  new  colledge  in  St  An- 
drews, we  stentet  qt  every  kirk  within  the  said  Presbyterie  suld  pay,  yt  he  mycht 

be  interteneJ  and  Carnock  was  stentet  to  pay  3  libs,  and  thairfor  Mr  John  present 

bursar,  cam  to  my  house  the  day  foresaid,  and  receivit  the  said  3  libs."—"  Oct.  3. 
1647.  Having  mist  some  of  our  people  out  of  the  church  this  afternoon,  it  was  en- 
acted, that  some  of  our  elders,  day  about,  should  go  through  the  parish  one  the  Lord's 
day,  and  see  who  was  absent  remaining  in  their  houses  ;  and  if  some  just  and  lawll 
cause  detained  them  not,  that  they  should  be  censured."  This  regulation  was  long 
after  continued  in  Carnock — "  Oct.  29,  1647.  I  did  exhort  the  elders  tliat  they 
wold  be  carefuU  to  search  and  try  the  parish  if  ther  wer  any  neighbour  at  discord 
wt  another,  and  let  them  be  warned  in  before  the  sessioune,  that  their  friendship 
might  be  mad,  and  the  day  appointed  for  this  purpose  to  be  Thursday  next.  Nov. 
4.  The  qlk  day  Andrew  Creich  and  David  Anderson  came  in,  and  were  reconciled." 
"  Nov.  14.  Ther  was  delivered  to  Robt.  Creich,  our  ruling  elder,  for  the  repairing  of 
Cramment  brig,  4  lib.,  qlk  was  delivered."—"  November  21.  I  did  shew  unto  the 
«essione,  that  one  day  of  the  week  must  be  attendit  for  weekly  examinations,  and 
that  one  or  more  elders  should  be  always  present."—"  Decem.  12.  The  qlk  day  it  was 
ordained  by  the  sessione,  that  the  children  of  poor  ones  should  have  the  benefit  of 
■learning  to  read,  and  therefore  because  they  are  unable  to  pay  tlier  quarter  payments 

the  sessione  ordains,"  &c  Decern.  19.  Orders  given  to  procure  "  directiones  for 

family  worship,"  for  the  use  of  the  parishioners.—"  Apr.  30.  Ordained,  that  no  more 
than  24  persons  be  at  penny  bridalls,  under  a  penalty  of  a  dollar." — "  My  Lord  Kin- 
cardine came  to  Carnock  this  12  of  this  instant  of  Oct.  and,  having  held  a  court,  he 
settled  the  maintenance  of  the  school  to  be  the  somme  of  a  hundred  pounds,"  &c. — 
March  18.  1649.  Deacons  appointed — 15  Febr.  "A  general  collection  throw  the 

paroche  for  the  poor"  ordered  "  7  March  1652.  Publick  intimation  was  made  from 

the  pulpit  of  a  collection  for  the  supplie  of  some  prisoners  that  were  taken  captive  at 
Dunbar  and  are  now  very  hardlie  dealt  withal."— 6th  July  1656.    The  session,  at  a 

3 


CARNOCK. 


705 


Antiquities. —  In  the  charter  granted  to  Sir  George  Bruce  of 
the  barony  of  Carnock,  mention  is  made  of  the  tower  of  Carnock; 
and  tradition  assigns  a  Roman  camp  to  a  farm  in  the  parish  which 
bears  the  name  of  Camps.  No  vestiges  of  either,  however,  are 
now  to  be  found.  Remains  of  Roman  urns  were  dug  up  by  the 
plough  on  Carneil  hill  more  than  twenty  years  ago,  and  a  few 
coins  have  been  occasionally  met  with ;  but  no  certain  information 
about  them  has  been  obtained  by  the  writer. 

In  the  former  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish  notice  is  taken 
of  "  an  ancient  cross,"  situated  in  the  northern  division  of  the  vil- 
lage. "  This  cross,"  it  is  said,  "  is  of  a  circular  form,  containing 
six  rounds  of  stone  steps,  rising  one  above  another,  and  gradually 
diminishing  in  diameter  as  they  ascend.  In  the  middle  grows  a 
venerable  thorn  tree,  which  was,  even  within  these  few  years,  co- 
vered with  leaves  and  blossoms  in  summer;  but  is  now  much  de- 
cayed." This  venerable  thorn,  which  was  probably  more  than  two 
hundred  years  old,  being  reduced  at  last  to  a  decayed  trunk  and  a 
single  branch,  and  in  constant  danger  of  falling,  was  a  few  years 
agfo  cut  down.  The  cross  itself  has  also  been  removed.  The 
road-maker  being  abroad,  and  finding  the  venerable  "  rounds  of 
steps"  in  his  way,  first  got  them  remodelled,  and  then  pulled  down 
altogether.  And  thus,  though  our  carriage-way  has  been  greatly 
improved  in  consequence,  we  have  been  deprived  of  almost  the 
only  relic  of  the  olden  times  that  we  possessed.  Several  referen- 
ces are  made  to  the  "  thorne"  in  the  session  record.  The  fol- 
lowing entry  is  characteristic:  "  Feb.  6,  1653.  Forasmuch  as  it 
has  been  found  yt  many  breaches  of  the  Lord's  holy  Sabbath  has 
been  occasioned  by  people's  gathering  about  the  thorne  on  the 
Sunday  afternoone,  some  by  yr  buying  and  selling  of  servant's 
come  in  the  harvest,  and  some  by  other  frivolous  and  idle  dis- 

meeting  of  this  date,  granted  leave  to  certain  pejsons  to  erect  a  seat  for  themselves  in 
the  church,  and''  every  one  of'them  are  to  give  in  24s.  to  the  poor." — "  12  July  1657, 
The  elders  wer  appointed  once  in  the  moneth  to  give  ane  accompt  of  those  under  yr 
scverall  charges,  and  to  see  who  are  sick,  under  necessity,  scandalous  in  yr  carriage, 
or  defective  in  familie  deuties."' — «'  21  Feb.  1658,  A  collection  was  publickly  inti- 
mat  for  the  relief  of  a  poor  man  in  Sauling,  called  Rot.  Harrower,  who  had  his 
hou-.e  brunt." — "  22  May  1659,  Given  to  a  stranger  supplicant,  6s.  To  another 
stranger  supplicant,  4s.  To  a  poor  disabled  souldier,  2s."_"  18  Deer.  1659,  There 
was  a  contribution  intimat  to  be  for  the  support  and  supplie  of  the  people  in  Pittcn- 
weyme,  &c.  who  had  suffered  so  much  skaith  by  the  inundation  of  waters"—"  15 
April  1660,  The  elders  were  exhorted  to  visit  the  sick  more  frequently,  for  the  mi- 
nister declared,  that  the  sick  told  him  yt  few  or  none  of  the  elders  came  to  them,  and 
they  were  sharply  rebuked."—'-  29  July  1666-  There  was  a  contribution  intimat  for 
repairing  the  harhoree  of  Iiiverkeithing." 

FIFE.  Y  V 


706 


FIPESHIUE. 


courses  dishonour  God— therefore  it  was  appointed  yt  every  one 
sail  repaire  to  yr  owne  houses  immediatelie  after  sermones  are 
ended,  yt  the  rest  of  the  Lord's  day  remaining  may  be  employed 
by  masters  and  others  in  the  family  in  repeating  of  sermones,  ca- 
techising, and  other  religious  exercises ;  and  if  hereafter  any  sail 
be  found  standing  about  ye  thorne,  they  shall  be  conveined  before 
the  kirk-session,  and  censured  according  to  the  nature  of  yr  dis- 
obedience." 

The  designation  Law  Know,  given  to  a  small  eminence  m  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  village  of  Carnock,  may  be  also  mentioned, 
as  pointing  out  a  place  where,  it  is  probable,  in  feudal  times,  the 
vassals  and  dependents  were  assembled  by  their  superiors  for  de- 
ciding their  differences,  and  administering  justice. 

Modern  Buildings.— these  there  are  few  to  be  noticed. 
The  mansion-house  of  Newbigging,  in  which  the  Institutes  of  the. 
Law  of  Scotland  were  composed,  is  still  standing.    It  was  design- 
ed, it  is  said,  by  one  of  the  Adams,  and  affords  but  an  indifferent 
specimen  of  his  art  at  the  time.    It  is  at  present  used  as  a  farm- 
house, and  considered  a  very  indifferent  one.    There  is  a  plain  and 
substantial  house  on  the  estate  of  Blair,  which  was  budt  about 
thirty  years  ago.    And  at  Luscar  a  handsome  residence,  in  the 
old  English  ov  Elizabethan  style,  has  been  lately  built.    And  on 
the  estate  of  Carnock  Mr  Stuart  has  just  erected  a  small  but  com- 
modious dwelling.    A  new  church  has  also  been  lately  erected, 
which,  though  it  be  a  plain  structure,  is  yet,  independently  of  its 
utility,  a  great  ornament  to  the  place.    It  is  in  the  Saxon  style, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  with  a  handsome  spire,  and  groined 
ceiling.    There  is  a  single  corn-mill  in  the  parish.    It  goes  both 
by  water  and  steam. 

in. — Population. 
Nothing  very  certain  can  be  mentioned  regarding  the  ancient 
state  of  the  population  of  the  parish,  except  that  it  seems  to  have 
been  more  scattered  than  it  is  at  present.  Judging  from  the  re- 
gister of  births,  the  number  of  inhabitants,  nearly  200  years  ago, 
vvould  not  amount  to  much  above  350.  At  that  time,  the  village 
of  Carnock  was  the  only  one  in  the  parish,  and  of  small  extent. 
The  others  are  of  comparatively  recent  date.  And  as  manufac- 
tures had  then  made  little  progress,  the  population  was  chiefly 
engao-ed  in  agricultural  pursuits,  and  in  the  domestic  labours  which 
were^hen  requisite  for  procuring  the  necessary  supplies  of  lood 
and  clothing. 


CARNOCK. 


ror 


According  to  Dr  Webster's  survey  in  1755,  the  population  was  583 

From  a  survey  made  in  .  1781,  ...          ..  912 

no.  1791,  ...          .  .  970 

Bv  Government  census  in  .  1801,  ...          ...  860 

'            Do             .  .  1811,    884 

Do.            .  .  1821,    1136 

Do.            .  .  1831,    1204 

Do.             .  .  1841,  ...          ...  1269 

The  cause  of  the  decrease  shown  by  the  census  of  181 1  appears 
to  have  been  the  ceasing  of  some  coal-works  in  the  parish,  about 
the  commencement  of  the  century;  and  the  increase  which  the 
subsequent  surveys  give  is  sufficiently  accounted  for  by  the  im- 
provements in  trade,  manufactures,  and  agriculture. 

At  the  close  of  the  year  184)1  the  following  were  the  results  : — 

Number  of  persons  residing  in  villages,           .           .  .891 

the  country,          .  .  378 

The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years,  .  33 

deaths,              .              .  .  21? 

marriages,              .              .  .10^ 

The  number  of  persons  under  15  yeai-s  of  age,          .  .  501 

betwixt  15  and  30,             .  .  245 

30  and  50,          .  .  268 

50  and  70,          .  .  131 

upwards  of  70,             .  .  24 

bachelors  upwards  of  50  years  of  age,  .  4 

widowers,                 .                 .  .6 

widows,  ...  25 
unmarried  women  upwards  of  45  years  of  age,    .  13 

families,                 .                 .  .  267 

The  average  number  of  children  in  each  family,          .  .  3^ 

Number  of  inhabited  houses,              ,              .  .  251 

houses  uninhabited  or  now  building,           .  .  13 
Proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.50  and  upwards,      .  5 

Number  of  fatuous,                 ...  J 

IV. — Industry. 

The  number  of  males  employed  in  agriculture,  .  .  87 

The  number  employed  in  manufactures,  i  pi^^'^rs,       .  .  71 

}  journeymen,  &c.  ,  84 

handicraft,       \  P^^^'^rs,  .  27 

<  journeymen,  &c,  .  15 

Professional  and  other  educated  men,           ...  7 

Number  of  labourers  not  agricultural,           .  .  63 

Of  these  there  are  employed  in  mines,              .              .  26 

Number  of  retired  tradesmen,  superannuated  labourers,  &c.  .  7 

Agriculture.  —  The  number  of  imperial  acres  in  the  parish 
which  are  cultivated,  is  1665.  The  number  uncultivated,  besides 
what  are  occupied  with  roads,  fences,  &c.,  is  about  45 ;  and  of 
these  only  a  few  acres  could  be  profitably  added  to  the  cultivat- 
ed land.    450  acres  are  under  wood. 

There  is  no  natural  wood  in  the  parish,  The  plantations  con- 
sist of  larch,  spruce,  and  Scotch  firs,  oak,  beech,  elm,  chestnut, 
and  ash.  The  different  kinds  of  fir,  the  oak,  and  the  beech  seem 
to  be  best  adapted  to  the  soil.    The  wood  of  the  ash  and  the  elm 


70S 


FIFESHIRE. 


is  said  to  be  of  an  inferior  quality.    Sonne  of  the  plantations  have 
not  been  much  attended  to.    The  management  of  them,  however, 
has,  of  late  years,  been  much  improved,  and  their  value  in  conse- 
quence been  increased. 

Prices. — A  close  cart  and  wheels  with  iron  axle  costs  from  L.8  to 
L.IO,  according  to  the  quality  ;  open  carts  for  corn  and  hay  cost 
L.3 ;  with  wheels,  L.6  ;  an  iron  plough  costs  L.4 ;  and  a  wooden 
plough,  L.2  ;  a  pair  of  harrows  mounted  costs  L.2  ;  a  break  har- 
row for  two  or  three  horses  costs  from  L.l,  10s.  to  L.2;  fanners 
vary  in  price  from  L.6  to  L.8;  a  turnip  barrow  costs  L.l  ;  a  stone 
roller  from  L.3  to  L.4 ;  the  price  of  an  iron  drill  pbugh  is  L.2, 
10s.,  and  of  a  wooden  one,  L.l  ;  a  horse-hoe  costs  L.l  ;  a  grub- 
ber, L.8  ;  a  paring  plough  costs  L.2  ;  a  drill  sowing-machine  va- 
ries in  price  according  to  the  width  :  one  used  in  the  parish  cost 
L.11 ;  riddles  average  3s.  6d.  each ;  a  bushel  costs  12s. ;  a  potato 
firlot,  1  Os.  6d.    harness  of  a  pair  of  horses  for  cart  and  plough  is 
bought  for  L.10  ;  a  grape  costs  3s. ;  a  spade,  3s.  6d.;  a  shovel, 
4s. ;  a  mattock,  4s. ;  a  horse-shoe  made  and  driven  costs  9d.,  iron 
furnished  by  the  smith  ;  laying  plough-irons.  Is.  3d.,  iron  also  fur- 
nished by  the  smith  ;  sharpening  plough-irons,  2d. ;  shoeing  a 
pair  of  cart  wheels,  including  iron,  L.l,  7s.;  building  ruble  wall 
per  rood,  exclusive  of  material,  L.2,  5s. ;  plastering  per  yard,  do. 
3d. ;  a  horse  and  cart  per  day,  4s.  6d. ;  a  day's  ploughing,  8s. 

Livestock.— A  considerable  number  of  sheep  are  grazed  in  the 
parish.  The  cattle  commonly  reared  are  the  Fife  and  Teeswater ; 
but  small  attention  is  paid  to  the  improvement  of  the  breed.  The 
number  of  cattle  reared  in  the  parish  is  not  great,*— the  attention 
of  the  farmers  being  more  directed  to  the  raising  of  grain  than  to 
grazing.  The  horses  differ  not  from  those  generally  used  in  the 
district,  and  are,  for  the  most  part,  kept  in  good  condition. 

The  general  state  of  husbandry  in  the  parish  is  at  least  equal 
to  that  in  the  surrounding  district.  Ploughing  is  executed,  for  the 
most  part,  in  a  superior  style  ;  but  the  reaping  is  often  done  m  ra- 
ther a  careless  manner,  much  grain  being  left  on  the  field.  Dram- 
iug,  both  with  stones  and  tiles,  is  at  present  carried  on  with  much 
spirit,  on  almost  every  farm  in  the  parish,  and  with  the  most  bene- 
ficial results. 

The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years  ;  and  these  are 
chiefly,  it  is  believed,  drawn  up  in  such  a  way  as  to  be  mutually 
advantageous  to  the  proprietor  and  the  tenant. 

Farm-buildings  have  been  much  improved  of  late  years ;  and 

•  Of  late,  however,  a  good  many  have  been  fattened  for  slaughter. 


CARNOCK. 


709 


the  whole  of  them  are  now  in  a  respectable  and  comfortable  con- 
dition. Some  of  them  are  very  complete.  They  are  all  covered 
either  with  slate  or  tile.  Thrashing-mills  are  attached  to  them 
all,  except  one;  and  of  these,  six  are  driven  by  horses,  one  by 
water,  four  by  steam,  and  one  by  steam  and  water.  At  three  of 
the  farms  are  saw-mills.  The  enclosures  also  have  been  of  late 
much  attended  to,  and  considerably  improved.  They  consist  both 
of  stone  fences  and  hedges.  The  latter  are  increasing.  A  con- 
siderable extent  of  stone  wall,  in  the  south  part  of  the  parish,  has 
lately  been  removed,  and  been  replaced  by  hedges  ;  and  of  the 
many  new  enclosures  which  have  been  recently  formed,  not  one 
has  been  of  stone.  The  hedges  are  in  general  well  managed,  and 
in  good  condition. 

The  rents  are  generally  a  fixed  money  rent,  without  reference 
to  the  fiars.  The  tenantry,  for  the  most  part,  are  in  comfortable 
circumstances;  and  the  families  of  several  of  them  have  been  lonar 
on  the  farms  which  they  at  present  occupy.  They  are  a  sober 
and  industrious  body  of  men.  But,  perhaps,  a  greater  command 
of  capital  on  their  part,  and  greater  encouragement  on  the  part  of 
proprietors,  would  be  necessary  to  enable  them  to  turn  the  whole 
capabilities  of  the  land  to  account. 

Produce. — The  average  gross  amount  of  raw  produce  may  be 
stated  as  under ; — 

Wheat,  125  acres, 
Barley,  ^-1% 


Oats,  450 
Beans,  105 
Potatoes,  92 
Turnips,  56 
Hay,  161 
Flax, 

Pasture,  290 
Thinnings  of  wood, 
Gardens, 

Cattle,  supposing  200  annually  sold. 
Horses,  supposing  30  annually  sold. 
Coals  and  stones, 

Miscellaneous  produce,  including  pigs,  sheep,  butter,  &c. 


L.1250 
1300 
2362 
805 
992 
448 
805 
5 
237 
250 
100 
1200 
450 
650 
1600 


Total  yearly  value  of  raw  produce,  .  L.  11,454    0  0 

The  amount  of  capital  sunk  in  (he  different  articles  of  manu- 
facture required  for  the  various  purposes  of  husbandry,  as  carts 
ploughs,  &c.,  and  in  horses  employed  in  agriculture,  may  be  esti- 
mated at  L.4896. 

Manufactures. — There  are  no  spinning-mills  nor  public  manu- 
factures in  this  parish.    No  fewer,  however,  than  205  persons  ar  e 


710 


FlPESHfRE. 


employed  in  weaving,— 155  males,  and  50  females.    They  are 
all,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two,  who  do  country  work,  de- 
pendent upon  the  neighbouring  town  af  Dunfermline,  and  get  their 
webs  from  thence  ready  for  the  loom.  The  kinds  of  cloth  worked 
are  table-linens  and  table-covers.  These  last  consist  of  cotton  and 
worsted.    The  number  of  looms  in  the  parish  is  208.    Of  these, 
159  are  mounted  with  Jacquard  machines,  and  may  average  m 
value,  along  with  the  machine,  L.15.    The  remaining  looms, 
which  are  without  machines,  may  average  L.4  each.    The  value 
of  the  whole  looms,  in  the  parish  may  be  estimated  at  L.2500, 
reckoning  them  at  what  they  cost  when  new.    A  gross  of  pirns, 
value  2s.,  is  generally  allowed  to  each  loom.    Connected  with  this 
branch  of  manufacture,  also,  there  are  in  use  83  pairs  of  wheels 
and  swifts.    Each  pair,  consisting  of  a  wheel  and  a  swift,  costs 
from  lis.  to  14s.    These  are  used  in  winding  pirns,— a  depart- 
ment of  the  trade  which  is  generally  allotted  to  females  or  to  young 
persons.    Each  loom  may  consume  a  boll  of  potatoes  during  the 
year  in  the  shape  of  dressing,  or  a  quantity  of  flour  equal  in  value. 
Nifflers  and  rollers,  which  are  used  in  beaming  webs,  are  also  pro- 
vided by  the  weavers,  and  cost  L.3  the  set.    And  as  a  number  of 
persons  are  required  to  beam  a  web,  the  weavers  form  themselves 
into  societies,  commonly  called  quarters,  and  have  a  set  of  nifflers 
to  each. 

Weavers  receive  so  much  a  spindle  for  their  work ;  and  as  that 
varies  with  the  kind  of  cloth,  and  as  the  quantity  wrought  by  dif- 
ferent workmen  in  a  given  time  differs  considerably,  it  is  not  easy 
to  ascertain  with  accuracy  theiraverage  earnings,  either  by  the 
day  or  by  the  week.  It  may  be  stated,  however,  that  at  present 
those  employed  in  weaving  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have  a  fair  re- 
muneration and  support  from  their  labours.  * 

V._Parochial  Economy. 

Marhet-Toion.— There  is  no  market-town  in  the  parish.  The 
nearest  is  Dunfermline,  three  miles  distant  from  the  centre  of 
Carnock,  where  there  are  weekly  markets  and  frequent  fairs. 
The  villages  in  the  parish  are,  Carnock,  Gowkhall,  and  Cairney- 
hill.  A  fair  for  cattle,  &c.  is  held  annually  at  Carnock,  on  the 
2Gth  May ;  and  when  that  happens  to  be  Sunday,  the  fair  is  held 
on  the  Saturday  previous. 

.  This  account  of  the  manutactures  is  properly  descriptive  of  their  state  a  year  or 
two  So  for  at  present,  many  of  the  weavers  are  out  of  employment.  But  .t  ,s  to 
te  hoped  that  the  depression  of  trade  will  only  be  temporary. 


CARNOCK. 


711 


Means  of  Communication.— k  penny-post,  in  connection  with 
Dunfermline,  was  procured  for  the  village  of  Carnock  in  the  year 
1838,  and  has  proved  a  great  convenience  to  the  inhabitants.  It 
passes  daily.  The  Culross  and  Kincardine  posts  also  pass  through 
Cairneyhill  twice  a-day.  The  only  stage-coach  is  that  between 
Kirkcaldy  and  Glasgow,  which  passes  daily  through  Cairneyhill. 
But  from  Dunfermline  there  is  communication  with  Edinburgh 
twice  a-day  by  coaches  ;  and  the  steam-boats  between  Sliding 
and  Edinburgh  are  easily  accessible  to  our  population.  Carriers 
go  twice  a-week  from  Cairneyhill  to  Edinburgh,  and  once  a-week 
from  the  same  to  Auchterarder,  Crieff,  and  Comrie. 

The  length  of  turnpike  roads  in  the  parish  is  only  between  five 
and  six  miles.  They  are  kept  in  good  repair.  The  statute-la- 
bour roads,  however,  are  generally  very  indifferent.  The  one  es- 
pecially between  the  villages  of  Carnock  and  Cairneyhill,  and 
which  forms  the  principal  parish  road,  was,  until  lately,  in  a 
wretched  state.  The  line  is  bad,  and  there  is  little  prospect  of 
getting  it  altered ;  so  that  the  intercourse  between  these  villages 
is  very  much  impeded,  especially  in  winter. 

There  are  six  bridges  in  or  on  the  confines  of  the  parish. 
They  are  all  small,  but  in  good  condition.  The  two  oldest  have 
had  an  addition  made  to  their  width,  subsequent  to  their  first 
erection.  Above  the  arch  of  the  one  of  these,  which  is  in  the 
village  of  Carnock,  there  are  two  stones  with  an  inscription  on 
each.  The  one  contains  the  following  in  raised  letters ;  MR.  t. 
ROW  PASTOR  ANNO  D.  1638;  and  the  other  contains  the  words 
GEORGE  BRUCE  OF  CARNOK.  But  whether  this  date  marks  the 
age  of  the  oldest  part  of  the  bridge,  or  of  a  previous  erection,  is 
somewhat  uncertain. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  former  parish  church  stood  near  the 
.village  of  Carnock,  and  was  conveniently  situated  for  upwards  of 
one-half  of  the  population.  It  was  distant  from  the  furthest  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish  a  little  more  than  two  miles,  and  from  the 
nearest  somewhat  more  than  one  mile.  It  was  old,  inconveniently 
small,  and  most  uncomfortable.  The  time  of  its  being  built  is 
unknown.  The  date  1602,  with  the  letters  g.  b.,  appears  on  it  ; 
but  it  is  evident  that  part  of  the  building  at  least  was  much  older 
than  that.  From  Row's  Historie  just  published,  it  appears  that  it 
was  repaired  in  the  year  1602,  when  the  roof  of  heath  was  re- 
placed by  one  of  heavy  gray  slate.  It  was  again  repaired  in  the 
year  1641;  and  in  the  year  1815,  the  gray  slate  roof  was  replaced 


A- 


712- 


FIFESHIRE. 


by  one  of  Eisdale  slate.  A  few  years  ago,  some  further  repairs 
were  made  on  it,  which  rendered  it  more  comfortable.  But  in 
1838,  the  presbytery,  on  a  report  by  Gillespie  Graham,  Esq. 
Architect,  condemned  it,  and  issued  a  decreet  for  building  a  new 
church,  in  which  the  heritors  unanimously  acquiesced.  The 
greater  part  of  the  walls  still  remain,  and  form  an  interesting  re- 
lic of  the  olden  times.  The  old  church  bell  bore  the  date  1638; 
but  it  was  lately  recast.  On  the  pulpit,  which  was  of  oak,  was  the 
date  1674,  with  this  motto,  Sermonem  vitce  prcehenti,  Phil.  ii.  16. 
The  materials  of  this  pulpit  have  been  converted  into  a  chair  and 
table,  for  the  communion  elements,  in  the  new  church,  preserving 
as  much  of  their  original  appearance  as  was  consistent  with  what 
they  have  been  adopted  to. 

The  new  church,  which  was  planned  by  John  Henderson,  Esq. 
Architect,  Edinburgh,  contains  400  sittings  on  the  ground-floor ; 
provision  being  made  for  the  erection  of  galleries  afterwards  to 
contain  200  more,  if  required.  It  is  an  exceedingly  comfortable 
place  of  worship.  The  site  chosen  for  it  is  only  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  that  of  the  old  church  ;  no  other  place  being  more 
convenient,  considering  the  localities  of  the  parish.  It  was  opened 
for  worship  in  May  1840,  and  proves  a  great  accommodation  to 
the  parish. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1802.  It  underwent  some  repairs  in 
1829,  and  is  in  pretty  good  condition  ;  though,  from  the  defects 
of  its  construction  originally,  it  is  still  cold.  The  old  offices  were 
removed  in  1829,  and  the  present  ones  built.  They  are  small, 
but  comfortable.  A  barn  and  cart-shed,  however,  are  still  to  be 
erected.  The  glebe  contains  a  little  more  than  eight  acres,  ex- 
clusive of  the  space  occupied  by  the  manse,  offices,  and  garden. 
It  is  at  present  worth  L.24  a-year. 

The  stipend  is  one  of  those  which  receive  aid  from  Government. 
It  consists  of  6 1  bolls,  1  firlot,  1  peck,  1  lippy  of  meal ;  30 
bolls,  3  firlots,  1  peck,  3,|  lippies  of  bear;  19  bolls  of  oats;  and 
L.216,  Is.  4d.  Scots,  being  the  whole  teinds  of  the  parish.  The 
Government  allowance  is  L.36,  10s.  6d. 

The  number  of  persons  belonging  to  the  Established  Church 
is  652.  Tlie  number  of  families,  127.  The  average  attendance 
durino'  the  summer  months  mav  be  estimated  at  220.  The  num- 
ber  who  are  in  the  habit  of  attending  throughout  the  year,  but  not 
all  present  at  any  one  time,  amounts  to  upwards  of  350.  Several 
persons,  belonging  to  the  Establishment,  are  in  the  habit  of  at- 


CAIINOCK. 


713 


tending  worship  in  the  neighbouring  parish  churches.  The  num- 
ber of  communicants  on  the  roll  at  last  communion,  belonging  to 
the  congregation,  and  exclusive  of  those  who  worship  in  other 
parishes,  was  about  200.  Previous  to  1828,  the  number  on  the 
roll  was  93;  and  in  1833,  it  was  151. 

There  is  one  Dissenting  meeting-house  in  the  parish.  It  ori- 
ginated about  1748,  and  is  situated  in  the  village  of  Cairneyhill. 
The  congregation  belongs  to  the  United  Associate  Synod.  The 
number  of  sittings  in  the  meeting-house  is  400.  The  minister's 
stipend  is  L.96,  derived  from  seat  rents  and  collections,  besides  a 
house  and  garden,  and  a  glebe  of  two  acres.  The  whole  number 
of  Dissenters  of  all  denominations  in  the  parish  is  598.  Of  these, 
about  400  profess  to  belong  to  the  congregation  at  Cairneyhill ; 
two  are  Episcopalians,  and  one  a  Roman  Catholic,  who  occasionally 
worship  in  the  parish  church;  and  the  remainder,  adhering  to 
the  United  Secession,  the  Rehef,  and  the  Original  Burghers, 
attend  places  of  worship  belonging  to  their  respective  denomina- 
tions in  Dunfermhne.  Of  those  not  known  to  belong  to  any  re- 
lioious  denomination,  the  number  is  19. 

The  average  amount  of  church  collections,  &c.  yearly  for  re- 
ligious and  charitable  objects,  besides  the  ordinary  weekly  collec- 
tions for  the  poor,  may  be  estimated  at  upwards  of  L.IO. 

Education. — There  are  two  schools  in  the  parish ;  one,  the  pa- 
rochial school,  in  Carnock  village ;  and  the  other  at  Cairneyhill. 

The  branches  of  instruction  taught  in  the  two  schools  at  present 
existing,  are,  English  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  English  gram- 
mar, geography,  and  sometimes  Latin  and  Greek.  The  parochial 
schoolmaster  has  the  maximum  salary,  and  a  small  mortification 
of  the  value  of  5s,  6^d.  annually.  This  mortification  is  the  inte- 
rest of  100  merks  bequeathed  the  kirk-session  of  Carnock,  for 
behoof  of  the  schoolmaster,  by  Principal  Row,  "  calling  to  mynd," 
as  the  deed  of  mortification  in  the  principal's  hand-writing  states 
"  the  place  of  my  birth,  and  first  initiating  in  letters."  The 
schoolmaster  at  Cairneyhill  ha*s  a  free  school-house  ;  but  is  other- 
wise wholly  dependent  upon  the  school  fees. 

Besides  the  faciUties  afforded  for  the  education  of  the  young 
by  the  two  schools  already  mentioned,  the  inhabitants  of  the  east- 
ern portion  of  the  parish  have  the  privilege  of  sending  their  chil- 
dren to  a  well-conducted  school,  which  is  connected  with  a  public 
work  in  the  parish  of  Dunfermline. 

In  1834,  the  number  of  children  at  school  was  210.  Subse- 


714 


PIFESHIRE. 


quently,  the  number  decreased  considerably,  and  has  never  since 
reached  that  number.  This  diminution,  especially  of  late,  has 
been  owing  to  the  depression  of  trade. 

The  parochial  teacher  has  barely  the  legal  accommodation. 
The  school-room  is  small  and  ill  -furnished ;  and  the  dwelling- 
house,  which  is  above,  is  in  ill-repair  and  uncomfortable. 

A  seminary  for  young  ladies  has  for  a  number  of  years  past 
been  successfully  conducted  at  Cairneyhill,  by  Mrs  More.  Be- 
sides the  ordinary  branches  of  education,  there  are  taught  French, 
Italian,  English  composition,  music,  drawing,  and  other  branches, 
both  useful  and  ornamental,  that  are  usually  taught  in  the  most 
respectable  boarding-  schools.  The  terms  are  moderate,  and  the 
seminary  is  flourishing. 

Libraries. — There  are  two  libraries  in  the  parish  ;  one  in  the 
village  of  Cairneyhill,  which  has  existed  several  years ;  the  other 
in  the  village  of  Carnock,  which  was  established  by  means  of  col- 
lections and  subscriptions  by  the  minister  in  the  year  1840,  and 
which  now  consists  of  about  250  volumes.  The  desire  for  read- 
ing has  of  late  been  increasing  among  the  people. 

Friendly  Societies. — The  only  association  of  this  kind  in  the  pa- 
rish is  what  is  called  the  Dead  Fund,  the  object  of  which  is  to 
assist  in  defraying  the  expenses  of  funerals.  On  the  occasion  of 
a  death  in  the  family  of  a  member,  a  certain  sum  is  paid  out  of 
the  fund  to  the  survivors,  each  member  contributing  a  shilling  or 
a  sixpence,  as  the  sum  to  be  paid  may  be  greater  or  less.  This 
association  has  proved  very  beneficial. 

Savings'  Banks. — There  is  no  Savings'  Bank  in  the  parish. 
The  nearest  is  in  the  town  of  Dunfermline.  A  Savings'  Bank 
was  established  there  a  good  many  years  ago;  but  as  a  national 
•one  was  opened  in  1838,  the  deposits  of  the  old  bank  were  trans- 
ferred to  it.  Few  persons,  however,  in  this  parish  avail  themselves 
of  the  advantages  which  it  offers. 

.  Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  average  number  of  persons 
on  the  permanent  poor's  roll,  including  those  that  are  dependent 
upon  them,  is  12.  Of  these  some  receive  5s.  a  month,  and  some 
as  low  as  3s.  6d.  One  pauper  receives  2s.  a  week.  Besides  those 
on  the  permanent  roll,  there  are  several  that  receive  occasional 
relief.  The  funds  to  meet  these  expenses  consist  of  collections  at 
the  church  doors,  mortcloth-dues,  the  interest  of  L.200  of  money 
accumulated  in  former  years  by  the  session,  and  now  invested  in 
the  Dunfermline  gas  stock,  and  a  voluntary  assessment  by  the 


CAUNOCK. 


713 


heritors  when  required.  The  average  annual  amount  of  church 
collections  for  relief  of  the  poor  may  be  estimated  at  L.ll,  7s.  7d. 
The  mortcloth-dues  now  yield  a  very  small  sum,  as  m  these  days 
of  reform  many  think  it  better  to  support  a  small  concern  of  then- 
own/than  to  be  the  means  of  contributing  a  little  for  the  relief  ot 
the  poor  by  using  the  parish  mortcloth;  and  the  heritors  do  not 
choose  to  litigate  the  matter  with  them.  The  burden  on  account 
of  the  poor  of  this  parish,  however,  is  by  no  means  heavy.  The 
sum  annually  distributed  among  paupers  on  permanent  roll,  in  oc- 
casional relief  to  persons  not  on  roll,  and  in  the  education  of  poor 
children,  has  not,  on  an  average  of  several  years,  exceeded  L.36  ; 
a  fact  which  testifies  to  the  general  comfort  of  the  population,  and 
shows  that  there  is  a  creditable  disposition  among  the  poor  to  re- 
frain from  seeking  parochial  relief. 

Fairs.— On\y  one  fair  is  held  in  the  parish  in  the  year.  It  is 
chiefly  a  cattle  and  shoe  market,  and  is  held  on  the  26th  May, 
except  when  that  happens  to  be  Sunday,  in  which  case  the  fair  is 
held  on  the  27th.  Much  busiriess  used  formerly  to  be  transacted 
at  it ;  but  now  the  attendance  is  comparatively  small. 

jfins.  When  the  former  account  of  the  parish  was  written,  the 

number  of  inns  or  alehouses  appears  to  have  been  ten,  viz.  four  in 
Carnock,  five  in  Cairneyhill,  and  one  at  Blair.  A  considerable 
improvement  has  since  taken  place  in  this  respect,  for  the  number 
of  these  houses  now  amounts  only  to  five,  viz.  two  in  Carnock,  two 
in  Cairneyhill,  and  one  at  Gowkhall. 

Puel.—Co&\  is  the  only  fuel  used  in  the  parish.    It  is  procured 
either  at  the  Blair  colliery  in  the  parish,  or  at  some  of  the  pits  in 
the  neighbouring  parish  of  Dunfermhne.    The  price  of  the  for- 
mer varies  from  5s.  to  6s.  a  ton  of  20  cwt.,  and  that  of  the  latter 
from  5s.  to  6s.,  and  sometimes  more,  a  ton,  at  the  pit  mouth. 
Miscellaneous  Observations- 
Since  the  former  Statistical  Account  was  written,  the  general 
appearance  of  the  parish  has  evidently  been  much  improved. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  acres  of  moor,  and  of  what  is  occu- 
pied by  wood,  roads,  fences,  and  water,  the  whole  surface  is  under 
cultivation.    Agriculture  has  greatly  improved  ;  the  means  of 
communication  has  much  increased  ;  trade  and  manufactures  have 
received  a  new  impulse.    Farms  have  been  enlarged.    Oxen  are 
no  longer  employed  in  husbandry.  Thrashing-machines  are  in  ge- 
neral use.    Draining  is  now  much  attended  to.    Bone-dust  is 
used  extensively  in  turnip  husbandry.    The  rental  of  the  parish, 


716 


FIFESHIRE. 


which  in  1791  amounted  to  L.llOOa  year,  including  the  proceeds 
of  the  feus,  may  now  be  estimated  at  nearly  L.3000.  And  it 
is  not  to  be  doubted  that  the  population  generally  have  kept 
pace  with  their  neighbours,  in  the  ordinary  comforts  of  life,  and  in 
their  endeavours  to  increase  them. 

January  1843. 


PARISH  OF  ABERDOUR.* 

PaESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  HUGH  RALPH,  LL.D.,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  Extent,  8fc. — The  name  Aberdour,  in  Gaelic,  signifies 
"the  mouth  of  the  water,"  referring  in  this  instance  to  a  rivulet,  which 
empties  itself  into  the  Forth,  a  little  below  the  village.  It  is 
bounded  by  the  parish  of  Dalgety  on  the  west ;  by  those  of  Beath 
and  Auchtertoul,  on  the  north  ;  by  Kinghorn  and  Burntisland,  on 
the  east ;  and  by  the  Forth,  on  the  south  ;  being,  at  an  average, 
about  three  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  as  much  from  north  to 
south.  A  small  part  of  the  parish  is  detached  from  the  rest,  by 
the  intervening  parishes  of  Burntisland  and  Kinghorn,  and  lies  at 
the  distance  of  four  or  five  miles.  The  number  of  acres  may  be 
about  5000.  The  parish  is  divided  by  a  ridge  of  hills,  running 
nearly  from  east  to  west.  The  north  part  is  a  cold  and  bleak  track, 
considerably  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and,  excepting  what  has 
been  done  by  one  of  the  heritors  on  the  north-west  corner  of 
the  parish,  altogether  unsheltered,  either  by  hedges  or  plantations. 
The  soil  is  cold  and  sour.  On  the  south  of  this  ridge,  both  the 
soil  and  the  climate  are  much  more  kindly. 

Coast. — The  parish  stretches  along  the  shore  above  two  miles. 
From  the  east  boundary  the  coast  is  rugged  and  steep,  and  gene- 
rally covered  with  wood  to  the  water's  edge.  The  trees  have 
been  planted  with  a  proper  regard  to  effect,  and  the  jutting 
rocks  which  appear  in  different  places,  render  the  whole  ex- 
tremely picturesque  and  beautiful.    This  wood  is  intersected  with 

*  From  notes  furnished  by  a  parisliioner  of  Aberdour. 


AUERDOUR. 


717 


walks  cut  out  on  the  face  of  the  hill,  from  which  the  prospects  are 
rich  and  varied.  On  the  west,  there  is  a  beautiful  white  sandy  bay, 
surrounded  with  trees.  Here  the  grounds  rise  gently  to  the  west, 
bordered  by  thriving  plantations  ;  and  stretching  southward,  they 
terminate  in  a  perpendicular  rock  washed  by  the  sea. — By  this  rock 
on  the  east,  and  by  headlands  on  the  south-west,  the  small  har- 
bour of  Aberdour  is  well -sheltered  from  all  winds. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
Inchcolm.— The  parish  of  Aberdour  belonged  to  the  monastery 
of  Inchcolm.    This  monastery  was  founded  about  the  beginning 
of  the  twelfth  century  by  Alexander  I.  in  consequence  of  a  vow. 
Sibbald  says,  that  the  western  part  of  Aberdour  was  given  by  one 
of  the  Mortimers  to  this  monastery,  for  the  privilege  of  bury- 
ing in  the  church.  There  is  a  tradition,  that  the  corpse  of  one  of 
the  family  was  thrown  overboard  in  a  storm,  which  gives  the  name 
of  Mortimer's  Deep  to  the  channel  between  the  island  and  the 
shore.    This  western  part  of  Aberdour,  together  with  the  lands 
and  barony  of  Beath,  are  said  to  have  been  acquired  from  an 
Abbot  of  Inchcolm,  by  James,  afterwards  Sir  James  Stuart, 
second  son  of  Andrew  Lord  Evandale,  grandfather  by  his 
daughter  to  the  admirable  Crichton,  and  by  his  second  son,  Lord 
Doune,  to  Sir  James  Stuart,  who  married  the  daughter  of  the 
Regent  Murray.    Lord  Doune  was  Commendator  of  the  monas- 
tery of  Inchcolm  at  the  Reformation.    The  whole  of  the  above- 
mentioned  property,  together  with  the  island  itself,  is  still  in  the 
family  of  Moray,  with  the  title]  of  St  Colme.    The  Earl  of  Mo- 
ray attempted  to  cover  the  island  with  trees,  which  would  have 
increased  its  picturesque  appearance,  but  the  attempt  did  not  suc- 
ceed.—  (Old  Stat.  Account.) 

Antiquities. — Not  far  from  the  village  of  Aberdour,  on  a  flat  on 
the  top  of  a  hill,  there  is  one  of  those  cairns  or  tumuli  so  frequent- 
ly met  with  in  Scotland.    A  coffin  and  several  earthen  vessels, 
containing  human  bones,  were  found  in  it.    A  small  plain  tomb- 
stone erected  on  the  south  wall  of  the  old  church  to  the  memory 
of  the  Rev.  Robert  Blair,  minister  of  St  Andrews,  in  Fife,  and 
Chaplain  to  Charles  I.,  who  was  ejected  from  his  charge  by 
Archbishop  Sharp  in  1661,  and  died  at  Couston,  in  this  parish, 
1666.    The  inscription  is  in  Latin,  but  nearly  defaced. 

Parochial  Registers. — These  consist  of  minutes  of  kirk-session, 
commencing  in  1649;  baptisms  in  1663;  distributions  to  poor, 
1658;  collections  at  the  kirk,  1659;  marriages,  1609;  deaths, 


718 


PIFESHIUE. 


1658  to  1 609,  when  a  register  ceased  to  be  kept,  but  was  renew- 
ed by  the  present  session-clerk  in  1817. 

Lavd-owners. — The  principal  of  these,  with  their  valuations  are, 
the  Earl  of  Morton,  L.2900,  14s.  ;  Earl  of  Moray,  L.2190,  Is.  7d. ; 
William  Eraser,  L.836 ;  Major  Rose,  L.321,  15s.  lOd.  ;  William 
Inglis,  L.255,  6s.  8d.  ;  Robert  Wemyss,  L.223  ;  J.  Drysdale, 
L.205;  J.  Boswell,  L.83  Scotch  money. 

Mansion- Houses.  —  These  are,  Aberdour  House,  Hillside 
House,  Whitehill  Cottage,  Cuttlehill  House,  and  Templehall. 

HI. — Population. 

Amount  in  1811,  .  1302 

1821,  .  1489 

1831,  .  1751 

Aberdour  village,        .  908 

In  the  country,           .  983 


Total,  1891  in  1841. 


Number  of  illegitimate  births  in  the  parish  within  the  last  three 
years,  about  7  or  8. 

IV. — Industry. 

Number  of  acres,  standard  imperial  measure,  in  the  parish,  which  are  either 

cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  about  .  .    _  •  _  3240 

Number  of  acres  which  never  have  been  cultivated,  and  which  remain  con- 
stantly waste,  or  in  pasture,  about       .  .  .    _  •  1200 

Number  of  acres  that  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital,  bo  added 
to  the  cultivated  land  of  the  parish,  whether  that  land  were  afterwards  to  be 
kept  in  occasional  tillage  or  in  permanent  pasture,  probably  about  .  400 

Number  of  acres  under  wood,  planted,  .  .  •  1800 

Bent. — Average  rent  of  land,  L.2  Sterling  per  acre.  Real 
rental  of  the  parish,  L.4000  Sterling. 

Reclaiming  waste  land  and  drainage  of  cultivated  land  have  been 
the  chief  improvements  of  late. 

Manufactures. —  Not  more  than  eight  or  nine  hand-loom 
weavers  are  employed  in  the  weaving  of  ticking.  There  are  two 
saw-mills  for  cutting  wood  ;  also,  an  iron-mill  for  manufacturing 
spades,  &c.  driven  by  water. 

Fishings. — Oyster-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  very  limited  extent. 

Navigation. — Two  pinnaces  ply  betwixt  this  and  the  port  of 
Leith  for  passengers  and  goods. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— T\\Q  number  of  families  in  the  parish  be- 
longing to  the  Established  Church  is  about  357  ;  of  Dissenting 
or  Seceding  families,  about  70,  a  great  proportion  of  which  occa- 
sionally attend  the  parish  church  ;  of  Episcopalian  families,  1 ;  of 
Roman  Catholic  families,  1.  The  extent  of  the  glebe  is  4  acres, 
1  rood,  38  falls,  6  ells,  (Scotch  measure.)    It  is  let,  at  present,  at 


K  EM  BACK. 


719 


L.3.  lOs.  an  acre.    The  manse  was  built  in  1802,  and  is  in  very 

superior  condition.  .  ,         i    •  r 

Edncation.-Theve  are  4  schools  in  the  pansb,  exclusive  of 
Sabbath  schools,  viz.  the  parochial,  a  female,  Dombr^tle  colliery 
and  Templehall  schools.  The  yearly  amount  of  the  parochial 
schoolmaster's  salary  is  the  maximum.  The  probable  yearly 
amount  of  fees  actually  paid  to  the  parochial  schoolmaster  is,  on  an 
average,  L.30  SterHng  per  annum.  The  probable  amount  of  the 
other  emoluments  of  parochial  schoolmaster  is  about  L.IO  bter- 
ing,  arising  from  session -clerk's  salary  and  emoluments  of  office. 
An  Association  on  the  plan  of  a  saving  s  bank  was  recently 

formed  in  the  parish. 

Poor.— The  average  number  of  persons  receiving  parochial 
aid  is  26  weekly  and  12  monthly  pensioners,  also  a  lunatic 
female  pauper ;  total,  39.  Average  sum  allotted  to  each  of  such 
persons.  Is.  6d.  per  week  ;  L.9,  2s.  per  annum  to  the  lunatic  pau- 
per, besides  occasional  relief  to  others.  The  average  annual 
amount  of  contributions  for  relief  of  the  poor  is  about  L. 80  from 
voluntary  contributions  of  the  heritors;  about  L.30  from  church 
collections ;  L.18,  8s.  7d.  from  alms  or  legacies. 

February  1843. 


PARISH  OF  KEMBACK.*  ' 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  J.  MACDONALD,  D.  D.,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — The  name  of  this  parish  in  old  writings  is  variously 
spelled  Camback,  Kembek,  and  Kembok.  It  is  by  some  held  to 
be  the  modern  form  of  Kemp-achar,  "  the  field  of  battle ;" 
but  it  is  more  generally  supposed  that  the  first  syllable  is  de- 
rived from  the  name  of  the  Kem  or  Kame,  a  brook  which, 
taking  its  rise  in  the  hills  of  Scoonie  parish,  about  seven  miles 
west,  traverses  Kemback  parish  and  is  there  united  to  the 
Eden.    The  course  of  this  brook  through  a  broken  and  wood- 

•  Prawn  up  I)y  G.  Makgill,  Esq.  of  Kemback. 


72® 


FIFESHIRE. 


ed  glen  is  highly  picturesque,  and  although  on  a  smaller  scale 
bears  much  resemblance,  in  its  natural  features,  to  the  celebrat- 
ed pass  of  Glen  Farg  at  the  north-west  extremity  of  Fifeshire. 
And  while  Dura  Den,  as  this  ravine  is  called,  is  the  chief  attrac- 
tion to  the  lover  of  landscape,  the  rest  of  the  parish,  from  the  un- 
dulating character  of  the  ground,  and  the  abundance  of  timber, 
has  altogether  a  richer  appearance  than  most  parts  of  the  country, 
and  contrasts  favourably  with  the  bare  though  highly  cultivated 
districts  which  surround  it. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — Kemback  is  bounded  on  the  east,  by 
a  line  of  two  miles  in  length,  running  nearly  due  north  and  south, 
which  divides  it  from  the  parish  of  St  Andrews.  Its  northern 
boundary  is  the  river  Eden,  separating  it  from  Leucharsand  Dair- 
sie;  it  joins  Cupar  on  the  west,  and  Ceres  on  the  south.  Its 
greatest  length,  which  is  from  north-east  to  south-west,  is  about 
three  miles,  and  it  is  at  few  places  more  than  a  mile  and  a-half  in 
breadth.  It  is  formed  by  a  ridge  of  hills  called  Nydie  or  Kem- 
back hills,  running  through  it  from  east  to  west,  sloping  gently  to- 
wards the  south,  and  somewhat  abruptly  to  the  north.  The  highest 
point  of  elevation  is  Clatto  hill,  which  is  548  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Nearly  the  whole  of  this  range  of  eminences,  not 
long  ago  a  barren  heath,  is  now  covered  by  thriving  plantations. 

Climate. — From  the  sheltered  position,  and  the  increase  of 
wood,  the  climate  is  milder  than  most  of  the  surrounding  country  : 
and  many  of  the  inhabitants  have  attained  to  a  very  advancd  age. 
The  beneficial  effect  of  cultivation  and  drainage  on  climate  and 
health  is  shown  by  the  fact,  that  some  of  the  older  inhabitants  who 
have  resided  in  the  parish  all  their  lives,  recollect  that,  about  fifty 
or  sixty  years  ago,  ague  was  a  very  prevalent  disorder  every 
spring;  whereas  this  complaint  is  now  scarcely  known. 

So27.— The  parish  contains  almost  every  variety  of  soil,  as  bar- 
ren black  sand,  peat,  gravel,  black  and  brown  loam,  and  rich 
strong  clay  of  great  fertility.  Much  has  been  done  of  late  years 
in  draining  the  cold  wet  soil,  with  manifest  advantage  ;  but  on 
the  greater  part  of  the  north  side  of  the  parish,  this  is  unnecessary, 
the  immediate  subsoil  being  dry  loose  gravel. 

Pishing.— The  Eden  affords  tolerably  good  trout-fishing  in 
spring  and  autumn,  and  there  is  a  right  of  salmon  fishing  attached  to 
the  lands  of  Kemback,  which,  however,  is  now  quite  unproductive. 

Geology.  The  rocks  consist  of  sandstone,  ironstone,  shale,  and 

trap.    The  sandstone  is  of  two  kinds,  and  belongs  to  two  great  de- 

3 


KEMBACK. 


(21 


posits  ;  one  of  which  is  connected  with  the  coal  formation,  and  the 
other  with  that  of  the  old  red  sandstone.  The  geological  corre- 
sponds with  the  geographical  position  of  the  parish,  which  occupies 
an  intermediate  place  betwixt  the  coal-field  on  the  south,  and  the 
old  red  sandstone  on  the  north.  The  lower  beds  of  the  former 
rest  inconformably'  on  the  upper  beds  of  the  latter.  The  trap 
consists  of  veins  of  greenstone  and  a  few  isolated  patches  of  clink- 
stone.   A  vein  of  lead  ore  also  occurs  in  the  series. 

Dura  Den,  a  beautiful  and  interesting  valley,  traverses  the  pa- 
rish nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  plain  of  the  sedimentary  depo- 
sits, and  exhibits  a  well-defined  section  of  the  entire  series  of  these 
beds.  Without  leaving  the  road,  the  whole  are  laid  open  to  the 
eye  of  the  observer,  and  may  conveniently  be  examined  in  detail. 

The  geology  of  this  district  has  lately  acquired  very  considera- 
ble celebrity.  Dr  Anderson  was  the  first  who  drew  the  attention 
of  the  learned  to  its  interesting  relics,  in  his  essay  on  the  Geology 
of  Fifeshire,  published  in  the  Transactions  of  the  Highland  So- 
ciety. Since  that  time  it  has  been  visited  by  some  of  the  most 
eminent  in  the  science,  and  commented  upon  in  various  publica- 
tions. 

The  sandstone  beds,  which  belong  to  the  old  red,  are  here  of  a 
bright  yellow  colour,  and  attain  a  thickness  of  from  three  to  four 
hundred  feet.  Their  position  in  the  series  is  determined  by  their 
organic  remains,  which  are  identical  in  every  respect  with  those 
found  in  the  red  formation.  They  also  lie  conformably  on  that  de- 
posit, as  may  be  observed  at  the  out-crop  at  Dairsie  church,  both 
having  an  inclination  of  nearly  10°.  Towards  the  base  of  the  rock, 
the  sandstone  assumes  a  variegated  reddish  appearance,  where 
soft  beds  of  marl  or  clay  are  interposed,  and  which  vary  from  an 
inch  to  several  feet  in  thickness.  The  lineal  extent  of  the  depo- 
sit, of  which  a  section  is  here  laid  open,  is  nearly  a  mile,  and  rises 
in  precipitous  mural  cliffs  of  great  height,  indented  with  caves,  in 
which  the  persecuted  of  a  former  age  are  said  to  have  found  an  asy- 
lum. 

The  whole  deposit  is  extremely  rich  in  organic  remains.  Seve- 
ral entire  fishes,  with  fins,  tail,  scales,  and  thinnest  filmy  members, 
have  been  procured.  Along  with  three  or  four  belonging  to  com- 
pletely new  species,  if  not  genera,  and  of  which  no  account  has 
yet  been  published,  specimens  of  the  Holoptychius,  N.,  and  Pte- 
richthys  are  to  be  found  in  the  greatest  abundance.  Beautiful 
f)lates  of  five  distinct  animals  are  figured  in  Dr  Anderson's  Essay. 


722  FIFESHIUE. 

"  The  place  in  the  rock,"  says  this  accurate  observer,  "  which 
these  curious  relics  occupied  was  towards  the  base,  and  immedi- 
ately under  the  argillaceous  marly  beds  mentioned  above.  Ex- 
ternally they  have  undergone  but  little  change  in  their  form,  co- 
lour, or  scaly  covering ;  being  still  as  perfect  in  their  organic  de- 
velopement,  even  to  the  minute  silken  tin,  as  when  they  sported 
in  the  waters  of  a  distant  primeval  age.    The  substance  of  the 
body,  however,  and  every  trace  or  vestige  of  internal  organization, 
have  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  material  of  the  rock  has  been 
substituted  in  their  place,— the  enamel  of  the  scales  being  less 
soluble  than  the  more  calcareous  matter  of  which  the  bones  are 
composed." 

A  vein  of  greenstone  separates  the  sandstone  now  described 
from  the  beds  which  belong  to  the  coal  formation,  throwing  them 
up  to  an  angle  of  26°.    The  junction  is  extremely  well  defined  ; 
the  sandstones  are  contorted  in  every  possible  form,  as  well  as 
highly  indurated,  by  the  infusion  of  the  volcanic  rock.    Two  thm 
seams  of  coal  may  be  observed  at  this  locality.    The  ironstone 
and  shaly  matter  occur  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south, 
where  they  have  assumed  a  nearly  horizontal  position.    "  The  ga- 
lena," says  Dr  Anderson,  "  occurs  on  the  farm  of  Myretown  of 
Blebo,  and  was  noticed  so  early  as  the  year  172-2,  when  large  out- 
liers or  masses  of  ore  were  found  on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
The  papers  in  the  possession  of  the  present  proprietor.  General 
Bethune,  describe  these  as  weighing  from  ten  to  twenty-four  stones 
in  weight.    A  vein  was  opened  about  two  feet  thick,  but  would 
seem  to  have  been  speedily  abandoned  in  consequence  of  the 
hardness  of  the  rock,  which  required  to  be  blasted  with  gun-pow- 
der.   Subsequently,  and  a  little  to  the  north,  another  vein  was 
discovered,  (probably  a  continuation  only  of  the  first,)  which  is 
described  as  containing  a  "  rib"  of  metal  of  three  inches,  and 
gradually  increasing  to  seven  inches  in  thickness.    Various  at- 
tempts were  made  from  time  to  time  to  work  the  mines,  but  the 
disturbed  and  ruptured  state  of  the  strata,  and  frequent  intrusion 
of  the  trap,  prevented  the  operations  from  being  successfully  car- 
ried on.    The  vein  bears  in  a  north-east  by  south-west  direction." 

Civil  History. 
Remains  of  tumuli  may  be  traced  in  one  or  two  places,  and  re- 
lics have  at  dilferent  times  been  discovered,  both  of  Roman  ori- 
gin, and  of  feudal  times,  but  not  of  any  peculiar  interest.  There 
are  in  the  grounds  of  Kemback,  the  remains  of  an  old  burying- 


KEMBACK. 


723 


ground,  but  there  is  no  trace  of  its  history  or  of  any  building  con- 
nected with  it. 

Land-owners,  c^-c— The  number  of  heritors  is  five,  of  whom  the 
principal  is  General  Alexander  Bethune  of  Blebo,  &c.* 

Parochial  Registers.— The  earliest  registers  are  those  of  bap- 
tisms and  burials,  which  both  commence  in  the  year  1735.  That 
of  proclamations  begins  1st  October  1783.  The  records  appear 
at  one  period  to  have  been  made  irregularly  ;  and  there  is  no  ac- 
count of  the  burials  from  1738  to  1750.  The  only  session  book 
extant  commences  in  the  year  1732,  and  continues  with  some  m- 
terruption  to  April  1775. 

III. — Population. 

Years,  .       1755.  1811.  J82L  1831.  1841. 

Males,  ,  .  ■       ,  .  282 

Females,      .  .  .  .        369       .  •   

Total,         .        420      .        625      .        634       .        651       .  780 
The  following  is  a  table  of  the  baptisms,  proclamations,  and 
burials  for  the  five  years  preceding  1841,  extracted  from  the  re- 
gisters : — 

Year,    .       1836.  1837.  1838.  1839.  1840.  Aver. 

Baptisms,       22       .       15       .       18       .  20       .  22       .  19 

Proclamations,  1.6.9.  10       .  6.6 

Burials,     .17      .      26      .       22      .         13      .  13      .  18 

Numtier  of  inhabitants  residing  in  villages,  .  .  380 

in  country,         .  .  400 

«f  inhabited  houses,  about  .  .  •  160 

of  heritors,        .  .  .  .  .  5 

All  of  the  heritors  reside  in  the  parish,  and  are  possessed  of  in- 
comes above  L.50. 

In  addition  to  these,  there  are  fifty-one  persons  holding  feus  of 
various  values^  as  entered  in  the  new  valuation  roll  of  the  county. 

IV. — Industry. 

Rent  of  Land. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parish,  as  it  stands  in 
the  old  roll  of  1695,  is  L.2312,  6s.  8d.  Scots.  The  amount  on 
which  the  property- tax  was  assessed  in  1815,  was  L.3441  Ster- 
ling, and  in  the  new  valuation  roll,  drawn  up  by  order  of  the  Com- 
missioners of  Supply  in  1841,  the  gross  annual  value  of  the  land 
is  stated  at  L.3889,  2s.  8d.  Sterling. 

Agriculture  

Tlie  number  of  imperiail  acres  may  be  estimated  at        .  .  2200 

of  which  in  cultivation  or  pasture,  about  1700 
under  wood,  is  .  320 

•  See  Swan's  Fife  Illustrated,  Vol.  iii.  p  75,  for  the  account  of  this  estate,  and 
ihe  others  in  the  parish. 


724 


FIFESHIRE. 


About  500  acres  of  the  arable  land  is  occupied  by  the  proprietors 
themselves,  and  the  extent  let  to  tenants  is  1480.  The  leases 
under  which  it  is  held  are  generally  for  nineteen  years ;  though 
some  now  nearly  expired  are  for  ninety-nine  years.  A  proportion 
of  the  rents  are  payable  according  to  the  fiars'  prices  of  grain,  and 
the  average  rent,  under  recent  leases,  may  be  estimated  at  L.l, 
12s.  per  imperial  acre. 

Part  of  the  land  adjoining  the  river  Eden,  and  consisting  of 
rich  alluvial  clay,  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  has  been  known  to 
produce  64  bushels  of  wheat  on  a  Scotch  acre.  Of  late  years, 
however,  the  crops  of  this  grain  have  been  very  unproductive, 
partly  from  the  inclemency  of  the  seasons,  and  partly,  it  may  be 
supposed,  from  the  gradual  exhaustion  of  the  chemical  elements 
in  the  soil,  which  are  most  favourable  to  its  production.  One 
farm,  held  under  a  long  lease,  has  for  many  years  been  constantly 
in  pasture,  some  of  the  inclosures  of  which  were  let  during  the 
last  season  for  above  L.6  per  Scotch  acre. 

A  considerable  extent  of  the  lands  of  Blebo  were  feued  by  a 
former  proprietor  of  that  estate,  and  about  100  acres  are  now  held 
in  this  way,  in  lots  of  from  two  to  fifteen  acres,  at  moderate  feu- 
duties,  nearly  all  of  it  having  been  reclaimed  from  unproductive 
heath.  The  number  of  resident  families  in  possession  of  these 
feus  is  about  twenty,  and  most  of  them  are  partly  or  principally 
employed  in  other  handicrafts,  or  as  labourers  on  the  adjommg 
farms. 

Wages.— The  average  wages  of  farm-labourers  is,  for  men,  Is. 
ed. ;  and  for  women,  8d.  per  day. 

The  usual  number  of  horses  kept  for  agricultural  purposes  is 
about  fifty-four.  There  are  nine  thrashing-machines,  seven  of 
which  are  worked  by  horse-power,  one  by  steam,  and  one  by  water. 

Manufactures.— There  are  two  mills  for  spinning  yarns  m  the 
parish,  both  occupied  by  Mr  David  Yool,  and  both  situated  on 
the  Kame  or  Ceres  Burn  :  1.  Yoolfield  Mill,  built  in  1839, 
driven  by  a  water-wheel  of  39  feet  diameter,  and  10  feet  wide, 
assisted,  when  the  water  is  scarce,  by  a  steam-engine.  There  are 
now  employed  at  it  98  women  and  giris,  earning  on  an  average 
5s.  per  week ;  7  wrights,  at  12s.  6d. ;  10  men,  at  12s. ;  7  boys  at 
4s  •  6  labourers,  at  9s. ;  and  30  hecklers.  2.  Blebo  mills,  further 
up  'the  stream,  worked  by  a  water-wheel  and  steam-engine  of  ten- 
horse  power,  at  which  are  employed  4  men  at  an  average  at  13s. 
per  week;  3  boys,  at  4s. ;  and  37  females,  at  10s.  3(L 


KEMBACK. 


725 


At  Blebo  mills,  there  is  also  a  meal-mill,  a  barley-mill,  and  a 
flax  scutching-mill. 

At  Kemback  mill,  on  the  same  stream,  but  further  down,  and 
also  tenanted  by  Mr  Yool,  a  wheel  of  sixteen  horse  power  impels 
a  meal-mill,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  bone-mill,  by  which  from  500  to 
600  tons  of  bones  are  ground  annually,  and  about  150  tons  of 
rape-cake. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Stipend  and  GMe.— The  stipend  is,  wheat,  4  bolls,  1  firlot,  2 
pecks,  1  lippy;  meal,  3  bolls,  3  pecks;  bear,  21  bolls,  1  firlot, 
S  lippies;  oats,  29  bolls,  1  firlot,  3  lippies ;  and  money,  L.109, 
8s.  9d.    The  glebe  extends  to  about  5  Scotch  acres. 

In  the  year  1446,  Robertus  de  Ferny  and  Mariota  Olifert,  his- 
wife,  lady  of  Kemback,  granted  to  Gilbert  de  Galbrath,  rector  of 
the  church  of  Kemback,  and  to  his  successors,  four  acres  of  the 
lands  of  Kemback  with  three  cows'  grass,  and  one  horse's  grass  for 
ever,  to  be  held  on  condition  of  the  rector  being  always  bound  to 
say  two  masses  weekly  in  the  said  church,  for  them,  their  parents, 
and  benefactors,  "  purgatorii  poenas  demoUire,  et  fidelium  ani- 
mas  in  paradisi  gaudiis  coUocare."  The  deed  and  confirmation 
by  the  Bishop  of  St  Andrews  is  witnessed  by  James,  abbot  of  the 
monastery  of  Lundoris ;  John,  archdeacon  of  St  Andrews ;  Hugo 
Kennedy,  chaplain  of  St  Andrews ;  John  Beatoun,  rector  of  Dairy ; 
and  rector  of  the  University  of  St  Andrews  ;  John  de  Balfour,  vicar 
of  Lynlytholk ;  James  Treyle  de  Malgaske  ;  Thomas  de  Wemyss 
de  Myrtyn  ;  James  Butellere  de  Rumgally  ;  Alexander  de  Forsitb 
de  Nydy,  and  others. 

Patronage^  ^c. — The  teinds  and  right  of  patronage  belonged  to 
the  archbishopric  of  St  Andrews.  By  the  original  charter  of  1458, 
founding  the  old  college  of  St  Salvador's,  they  were  appropriated 
by  Bishop  Kennedy,  the  founder,  to  the  licentiatus  or  second 
master  of  that  college,  who  was  appointed  ex  officio  rector,  or  par- 
son of  the  parish,  with  a  pension  of  L.  10  Scots  for  a  vicar  to  b& 
presented  by  the  rector.  In  1579,  the  University  was  remodelled 
by  James  VI.,  when  the  office  of  licentiatus  was  suppressed;  but 
the  right  to  the  teinds  and  patronage  of  Kemback  was  reserved  to 
the  college;  and  as  the  second  master  had  the  right  of  presenting 
the  vicar,  the  college,  which  came  in  place  of  the  second  master, 
continued  to  present.  Since  the  union  of  the  Colleges  of  St  Sal- 
vador's and  St  Leonard's,  in  1747,  the  Principal  and  Professors  of 


726  FIFESHIKE. 

the  United  College  have  been  patrons  of  the  parish,  and  titirlars 
of  the  teinds. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  ministers  of  the  parish  since  the 
Reformation.  The  three  first  in  the  list  were  masters  of  St  Sal- 
vador's, and  ex  officio  ministers  of  Kemback : 

1.  Mr  William  Ramsay  was  minister  in  1666;  died  1570. 

2.  Mr  James  Martin  was  minister  in  1567. 

3.  Mr  David  Monypenny  in  1578;  resigned  in  1595. 

4.  Mr  George  Nairn,  admitted  1596,  translated  to  Kennoway 
1604. 

5.  Mr  David  Monypenny,  who  resumed  the  charge  1604,  at 
the  desire  of  the  congregation,  who  petitioned  the  Presbytery  to 
that  effect  on  Mr  Nairn's  translation.  He  was  deposed  for  forni- 
cation, October  7,  1617. 

6.  Dr  David  Monro,  admitted  1618;  translated  to  Kilcon- 

quhar,  1628. 

7.  Mr  John  Barrow,  admitted  1628;  conformed  to  Presbytery 

1638;  demitted  1648. 

8.  Mr  David  Patton,  admitted  July  Ulh  1648;  translated  to 

Kettins,  June  19th  1650. 
(Vacant  from  1650  to  1656.) 

9.  Mr  John  Wardlaw,  admitted  July  2d  1656;  deposed  1662. 

10.  Mr  Robert  Glassford,  admitted  7th  September  1644; 
translated  to  Kilmeny  1667. 

11.  Mr  John  Christison,  June  30th  1699. 

12.  Mr  George  Landells,  admitted  June  4,  1674;  translated 
to  Cupar  1682. 

13.  Mr  Alexander  Edward,  admitted  February  22,  1682  ; 

outed  1689. 

(Vacant  from  1689  to  1700.) 

14.  Mr  Alexander  Anderson,  admitted  1700. 

15.  Mr  William  Cunningham,  admitted  March  1703. 

16.  Mr  Alexander  Walker,  admitted  March  1736. 

1?!  Dr  James  Macdonald,  the  present  incumbent,  admitted 

1781.  .  ,     .      ,         ,  , 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  only  two  mductions  have  taken  place 

since  1703,  a  period  of  139  years,  and  only  one  since  1736 ;  Mr 
Walker  having  been  minister  of  the  parish  fifty-five,  and  the 
present  venerable  incumbent  the  long  period  of  sixty-one  years 

The  present  church  was  opened  for  public  worship  m  May 
1814   and  cost  about  L.  700.    The  manse  was  built  m  1801. 


TORUYBURN.  727 

The  average  yearly  amount  of  collections  in  the  church  far  the 

last  five  years  is  L.17,  3s.  5d.  ,    ,    ,  ,  -j 

Education  —There  is  one  unendowed  school  besides  the  paro- 
chial school  ;  the  number  of  scholars  at  both  together  averaging 
from  70  to  80.  There  is  also  a  girl's  school  at  Kemback  mill, 
partly  supported  by  ladies  in  the  parish. 

The  parochial  teacher  has  the  full  legal  salary  ;  but  the  present 
incumbent,  being  incapacitated  from  performing  his  duties,  the  he- 
ritors at  present  employ  another  teacher  in  his  place  at  a  salary  of 
L  14  per  annum.  He  states  his  annual  profit  from  fees  at  L.  16 ; 
and  he  has  also  about  L.  3  as  session-clerk.  The  common 
branches  of  elementary  education  only  are  taught,  there  being  but 
one  pupil  taking  lessons  in  Latin. 

Poor.— The  number  of  poor  regularly  supplied  is  from  15  to  20. 
The  amount  of  voluntary  assessment  is  about  L.  11,  10s.,  besides 
which  the  session  possess  a  fund  bequeathed  by  one  of  the  family 
of  Blebo,  amounting  to  L.  250. 

Collections,  L.17,  3s.  5d.  ;  assessment,  L.U,  10s.;  interest 
of  fund,  L.10— L.38,  13?.  5d. 

February  1843. 


PARISH  OF  TORRYBURN. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE  . 

THE  REV.  THOMAS  DOIG,  A.  M.,  MINISTER. 


L  Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  ^c. — The  parish  of  Torryburn  consists  of  the  united  pa- 
rishes of  Torrie  and  Crombie.  Crombie  appears  to  have  con- 
sisted of  the  district  of  the  present  parish  south  of  the  burn  of 
Torrie,  and  of  certain  detached  lands,  distant  about  seven  or 
eight  miles,  and  now  annexed  quoad  sacra  to  the  parish  of  Saline. 
In  lieu  of  these,  the  lands  of  Inzievar  and  Oakley,  belonging, 
quoad  civilia,  to  the  parish  of  Sahne,  but  cut  off  by  the  interven- 
ing parish  of  Carnock,  have  been  annexed,  quoad  sacra^  to  Tor- 
ryburn. Torry,  the  original  name  of  the  parish  to  which  these 
annexations  have  been  m'ade,  is  said  to  signify,  in  Gaelic,  the 


^-^^  FIFESHIRE. 

king's  height  ;  while  the  more  modern  name  of  Torryburn  may 
be  traced  to  the  circumstance  of  the  parish  church  being  situated 
by  the  side  of  the  biam  of  Torrie. 

Situation  and  Extent. — The  parish,  as  now  constituted,  forms 
the  extreme  south-west  corner  of  the  county  of  Fife.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  west,  by  the  parish  of  Culross,  in  the  county  of  Perth  ; 
on  the  north,  by  the  parish  of  Carnock ;  on  the  east,  by  the 
parishes  of  Carnock  and  Dunfermline  ;  and  on  the  south  and 
south-west,  by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  which  separates  it  from  the 
parishes  of  Carriden  and  Bo'ness,  in  the  county  of  Linlith- 
gow. It  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  from  one  to  two  in 
breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  five  or  six  square  miles.  The 
surface  is  beautifully  varied.  The  higher  grounds  command  se- 
veral fine  views  of  the  frith  and  its  opposite  shore;  and,  in  the 
distance,  the  castle  and  part  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh  are  seen. 

Hydrography. —  Besides  the  burn  of  Torrie,  there  are  two  small 
streams,  by  which  the  parish  is  partially  bounded,  at  its  eastern  and 
western  extremities.  A  small  loch,  which  at  one  time  existed  on  the 
lands  of  Oakley,  is  now  drained.  There  are  several  chalybeate 
springs  in  the  parish.  The  tide,  at  low  water,  recedes  to  a  consi- 
derable distance  from  the  shore.  By  care  and  industry  not  a  little 
land  might  have  been  gained  from  the  frith. 

Geology,  8fc. — Under  this  head  the  following  facts  have  been 
eommunicated  by  Mr  Cadell,  tacksman  of  the  Torrie  colliery : 
The  whole  of  the  parish  stands  upon  the  coal  measures,  forming 
part  of  the  basin  which  stretches  across  Scotland  from  south-west 
to  north-east.  Although  the  strata  are  very  irregular,  being  in 
many  places  thrown  up  by  the  trap  and  dislocated  by  slips ;  yet 
in  no  part  of  the  parish  are  any  of  the  inferior  beds  of  carbonife- 
rous limestone,  or  old  red  sandstone,  visible ;  nor  does  it  appear 
that  any  of  the  superior  beds  of  magnesian  limestone,  or  new  red 
sandstone  take  on.  In  the  south-west  part  of  the  parish,  at  the 
shore,  the  strata  crop  out  to  the  east  at  an  angle  of  about  45°, 
being  apparently  thrown  into  this  angular  position  by  the  trap-hill 
on  which  Torrie  House  is  built.  About  400  yards  east  of  the 
burn,  which  bounds  the  parish  on  the  west,  the  strata  dip  to  the 
south-east  at  about  one  in  five.  This  rise  increases  opposite  to 
the  village  of  Torryburn,  when  the  strata  again  dip  into  the  east. 

The  proprietor  of  Torrie  has  this  year  (1839)  been  at  consi- 
derable expense  in  proving  the  coal-field  along  the  shore  ;  and,, 
feom  several  borings,  the  basin  between  Torrie  and  Torryburru 


TORRYBURN.  729* 

has  been  found  to  show  the  following  section,  taken  generally, 
viz  : — 

Fathoms.  Feet. 

Shale,  with  two  five-inch  bands  of  ironstone,        .  .  12  0 

Coal,  ,  •         Q?  n^' 

Sandstone,  shale,  and  three  thin  seams  of  coal,  unworkable,  3j  0 

Coal  of  a  fine  quality,             •          •           •           •  '        i''  n** 

Shale,  sandstone,  and  three  thin  seams  of  coal,  unworkable,  15  0 

Coal,   0  2,9j 

Sandstone  and  shale,              .           •          •           •  .15  0 

At  the  north-west  corner  of  the  parish,  where  there  is  a  colliery 
now  at  work,  the  strata  are  found  dipping  to  the  north-west.  The 
general  section,  as  obtained  in  the  engine-pit;,  is  as  follows,  viz. 

Fathoms.  Feet. 

Shale,  with  thin  beds  of  sandstone,     ....  8  0 

Coal,  mostly  wrought  out,           ....  0  4^ 

Sandstone  and  shale,  with  several  small  unworkable  seams  of  coal,  22  0 

Coal  (parrot  seam),               .....  0  3 
Sandstone  and  shale,  with  several  thin  unworkable  seams  of  ooal, 

and  two  bands  of  ironstone  further  proved,                  .  19  0 

Above  the  strata  is  in  general  found  a  bed  of  blue  stiff  clay, 
full  of  rounded  nodules  of  coal,  whinstone,  sandstone,  &c.  Above 
this,  in  some  places,  is  a  bed  of  sand ;  and,  in  others,  of  fine 
brown  clay,  suitable  for  making  bricks  and  tiles. 

II. — Civil  History. 
There  is  no  record,  apparently,  of  the  time  when  either  Torrie 
or  Crombie  was  first  erected  into  a  parish.  The  earliest  notice 
of  the  former,  which  we  have  seen,  is  in  a  list  of  parishes  said  to- 
have  been  drawn  up  in  the  reign  of  King  William  the  Lion,  quoted 
in  a  recent  publication  from  Sibbald's  History  of  Fife.  Crombie 
appears  to  have  been  dependent  on  the  Abbey  of  Culross.  In 
the  "  Booke  of  the  Universall  Kirk  of  Scotland,"  Torrie  and 
Crombie  are  noticed  as  separate  parishes  in  the  years  1581  and 
1586,  and  it  is  thought  that  their  union  was  effected  towards  the 
close  of  the  same  century.  One  of  the  first  notices  in  the  session, 
records  is  an  intimation,  of  date_Juue  21st  1629,  that  "  the  ses- 
sion convened  at  the  kirk  of  Crombie,  appointed  ane  stent  for  re- 
pairing the  kirk  of  Crombie,  extending  to  30  lb.,  to  be  paid  by 
parishioners."  But  there  is  nothing  in  the  record  to  enable  us  to' 
ascertain  whether  that  church  was  then,  or  afterwards,  used  for 
public  worship. 

By  the  session  records,  it  appears  that  there  was  a  school  in- 
Torryburn  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  seventeenth  century;  for,. 
June  1 7th  1632,  Alexander  Rae  was  "  discharged  from  teaching 
bairns  ia  the  parish  of  Torrie  ;"  and,  April  28th  1633,  William. 


730 


FlFESUlll'R. 


Duddingstone  was  "  received  to  read  in  the  kirk  before  sermorf, 
and  to  teach  the  bairns  to  read  and  write."  In  1644,  "  the  school- 
master was  found  unfit  to  teach  such  a  number  of  bairns  as  comes 
to  school,"  and  an  assistant  teacher  was  in  consequence  appointed. 
The  elders  appear  to  have  gone  through  the  parish,  from  time  to 
time,  "  to  gather  money  to  pay  the  master's  house-mail  and  school- 
house  ;"  and,  July  7th,  1644,  mention  is  made  of  a  "  bond  be- 
twixt schoolmasters  and  session,  subscribed  by  so  many  as  could 
wreat,  in  name  of  the  rest,  except  by  Johne  Dalgliesh."  The 
fees  of  poor  children  were  paid  by  the  session,  that  there  might 
be  no  excuse  for  absence  from  school.  In  illustration  of  the  in- 
terest taken  by  the  church  at  that  period  in  the  cause  of  educa- 
tion, we  give  the  following  extract  from  the  record  :  "  March  18th 
1649,  the  schoolmaster  being  inquired  if  the  bairns  attend  the 
school,  he  complained  that  manie  faythers  did  withdraw  their 
children,  and  the  names  of  the  bairns'  faythers  that  were  absent 
were  given  in  to  the  session."  They  were  "  ordained  to  be  sum- 
moned again  the  nixt  day."  And  accordingly,  "  March  25th 
1649,  compeared  the  faythers  of  the  bairns  that  were  withdrawn 
from  the  school,  and  promised  to  send  them  to  the  school  owre 
the  nixt  week  without  faile."  Whenever  there  was  a  falling  off 
in  school  attendance,  the  elders  appear  to  have  visited  their  se- 
veral quarters,  to  deal"  with  the  parents  to  send  their  children 
to  school,  and  to  keep  them  there  as  long  as  possible,  instead  of 
sending  them  away  to  "  the  herding."  In  1655,  there  appear  to 
have  been  four  schools  in  the  parish,  one  of  which  was  in  Torry 
or  Newmill,  and  another  in  "  Crunibietoune."  And,  about  this 
time,  "  it  was  the  desire  of  some  that  their  bairns  might  be  taught 
the  Latin  tounge." 

While  the  record  proves  that  great  efforts  were  made  by  the 
kirk-session  to  promote  the  cause  of  education,  so  also  to  see  that 
f^miily  worship  was  observed,  that  the  Sabbath  was  sanctified, 
and  that  drunkenness,  swearing,  evil  speaking,  and  lewdness  were 
discouraged.  Offenders  were  fined,  and  publicly  rebuked  before 
the  congregation. 

In  1643,  "  the  Covenant  was  read  and  explained;"  and,  De- 
cember 10th  1648,  "the  Covenant  was  renewed,  and  solemnly 
sworn  to  by  all,  and  subscryved  to  by  as  manie  as  could  writt:  the 
rest  were  desyred  to  come  in  upon  Tuesday  following,  for  subscryv- 
ing  the  same  by  themselves,  or  by  some  at  their  desire."  About 
this  period,  too,  so  memorable  in  the  history  of  our  fathers,  there 


TORKYBURN. 


731 


appears  to  have  been  great  anxiety  to  wait  upon  rehgious  ordinan- 
ces. Thus,  June  6th  1647,  it  is  noticed,  "  that  the  kirk  was  too 
little  to  contain  the  people  of  the  parish and  that  «  hundreds 
were  constrained  to  ly  in  the  kirkyard  in  time  of  sermon,  about 
the  doors  and  windows."  An  application  was  in  consequence 
made  to  the  heritors,  who  enlarged  the  church  accommodation  by 
building  an  aisle.  After  the  occupation  of  Scotland  by  Cromwell, 
the  record  exhibits  complaints  of  "  disorder,"  occasioned  «  by  the 
troubles  of  the  time;"  of  disorder  "by  Englishmen,"  and  "  by 
English  souldiers."  Ahd,  October  16th  1653,  the  mimster  re- 
ports to  the  session,  that  there  were  in  the  parish  "  ignorant,  per- 
sons,  scandalous  livers,  persons  who  had  not  attended  diets  of  ex- 
amination, and  those  who  did  not  profess  to  keep  family  worship, 
in  all  near  to  200  persons." 

As  illustrative  of  the  spirit  of  our  fathers  about  this  period,  the 
following  public  collections  may  be  noticed,  which  were  made  in 
the  parish  between  the  years  1631  and  1658  : 

1631,  For  tbe  distressed  Germans,  .  •  L.30    0    0  Scots- 

1 632,  For  the  captives  of  Dysart  and  Kirkaldy,  .  or  iq  4 
1643,  For  tlie  captives  of  Inverlteithing,  &c.  .  •  iqq  c  q 
1647,  For  the  distressed  people  in  Argyle,  .  .  .  ld<J  0  o 
1647,  For  the  bridge  of  Cramond,  and  tbe  distressed  persons  re- 

commended  by  tbe  General  Assembly,     '  •  an    n  n 

1651,  For  prisoners  at  Newcastle,  .  •  fi    n  n 

1652,  For  Lieutenant  Jardine,  •  •  n  n 
1652,  For  "  the  desolate  toune  of  Glasgow,"                 .               in    0  n 

1652,  For  the  captives  among  the  Turks,  .  •         or  n 

1653,  For  soldiers,  prisoners,  and  others,  .  •  U 
1656,  For  the  town  of  Edinburgh,  .  <  4  0 
1656,  For  bursars,                 •          •              •                 •  *  " 

1656,  For  pious  uses,        .  •  ;  00    n  n 

1657,  For  "  the  Grecians,  and  the  toune  of  Anstrutber,         .  u  u 

1658,  For  the  town  of  St  Andrews,  .  •  ^4    U  U 

Under  the  Episcopal  usurpation,  during  the  reigns  of  Charles 
11.  and  James  VII.,  the  discipline  appears  to  have  been  maintain- 
ed with  considerable  strictness.    None  of  the  festivals  or  saints' 
days  seem  to  have  been  observed ;  and  the  communion  was  dis- 
pensed on  a  Sabbath,  and  sometimes  on  two  successive  Sabbaths, 
by  appointment  of  the  session.    The  first  Presbyterian  minister 
after  the  Revolution,  Mr  Allan  Logan,  was  ordained  July  24, 
1695.    His  session  consisted  of  thirteen  elders;  and  discipline 
continued  to  be  exercised  with  a  very  searching  strictness.  Dur- 
ing his  incumbency,  till  he  was  translated  to  Culross,  in  1717, 
many  curious  notices  are  to  be  found  in  the  record.    Under  this 
head  we  may  notice  an  oath  of  purgation,  administered,  in  1703, 
to  one  Curry,  who  had  been  accused  of  adultery;  the  appearance 


0 
0 
0 
6  0 


73=2 


FIFESHIIIE. 


before  the  session,  in  1705,  of  one  Dr  Sibbald,  a  physician,  who- 
appears  to  have  been  a  very  worthless  character ;  and  the  exami- 
nation, in  1704,  of  one  Lillias  Adie,  accused  of  witchcraft,  who 
afterwards  died  in  the  jail  of  Dunfermline,  and  was  buried  within 
the  flood-mark  between  the  villages  of  Torryburn  and  Torrie.  Mr 
Logan's  great  hobby  appears  to  have  been  the  prosecution  of 
witches;  and,  April  4,  1709,  Helen  Kay  was  rebuked  before  the 
congregation  for  having  said  that  the  minister  "  was  daft,"  when 
she  "  heard  him  speak  against  the  witches/' 

In  1697,  a  great  mortality  prevailed  in  the  parish,  the  burials 
that  year  amounting  to  114.  It  was  a  time  of  great  scarcity  all  over 
the  country ;  and  the  tradition  is,  that  the  people  died  in  conse- 
quence of  unwholesome  food,  and  of  an  immoderate  use  of  a  particu- 
lar kind  of  fish  which  they  caught  in  the  frith.  Nothing  is  remem- 
bered of  a  more  modern  date  that  is  worthy  of  notice.  Only  it 
may  be  noticed,  that  Torryburn  appears  to  have  been  in  its  most 
flourishing  state  about  sixty  or  seventy  years  ago.  As  a  place  of 
enterprise  it  never  has  recovered  from  the  ettects  of  the  failure  of 
the  then  proprietor  of  Crombie.  The  coal  and  salt  works,  which 
had  previously  been  in  full  operation,  were  abandoned ;  and,  in  so 
far  as  a  flourishing  trade  invests  a  locality  with  importance  and  in- 
terest, it  must  now  be  said  of  Torryburn,  that  it  has  seen  better 
days. 

Chief  Land-owners. —  Without  reckoning  the  lands  annexed 
quoad  sacra  to  Saline,  but  including  that  part  of  Saline  annexed 
quoad  sacra  to  Torryburn,  the  parish  is  divided  among  seven  pro- 
prietors, whose  valued  rent  is  L.5377^  Scots,  and  whose  real 
rental  may  probably  amount  to  nearly  the  same  sum  in  Sterling 
money.  The  present  proprietors,  with  their  valued  rent  in  Scots 
money,  are : — 

Andrew  CoWille  of  Ochiltree  and  Crombie,  .  L.1640§- 

Captain  James  Erskine  Wemyss  of  Wemyss  and  Torrie,    ,      .  1475 

Andrew  Wellwood  of  Garvoch  and  Pitliver,  .     ^  .  738 

Henry  Beveridge  of  Inzievar,  .  .  «  718 

The  Heirs  of  Sir  Robert  Preston,  Bart,  of  Valleyfield,  .  414^ 
The  Heirs  of  General  Farquharson  of  Oakley,          .  .  335^% 

Miss  Erskine  of  Dunimarle,  &c.  .  .  56 

Antiquities. — These  are  few  in  number,  comprising  the  ruins  of 
the  small  church  of  Crombie,  occupying  a  commanding  situation 
overlooking  the  frith;  and  a  large  stone  at  a  place  called  the 
Tolbzies,  supposed  to  have  been  erected  as  a  memorial  of  a  fight 
at  some  remote  period. 

Modern  Buildings. — The  only  edifice  of  this  description  worthy 


TORIIYBTJRN. 


733 


of  notice  is  the  House  of  Torrie,  which  is  finely  situated,  and  has 
a  handsome  appearance.  A  valuable  collection  of  paintings, 
which  once  gave  to  it  an  interest,  fell  by  bequest,  at  the  death  of 
the  late  Sir  John  Erskine,  Bart.,  to  the  University  of  Edinburgh. 

III. — Population. 
By  referring  to  the  average  annual  number  of  births  and  bap- 
tisms, the  population  may  be  estimated  at  1250  in  the  year  1640 ; 
at  1800  in  1670;  and  at  1550  in  1680.  During  what  may  be 
considered  to  have  been  the  most  flourishing  period  of  the  history 
of  the  parish,  between  1770  and  1780,  the  population,  by  a  simi- 
lar reference,  may  be  estimated  at  from  1800  to  1900  souls.  In 
1755,  the  return  of  the  population  made  to  Dr  Webster  was 
1635;  and,  in  1792,  it  is  stated  in  the  former  Statistical  Account 
at  1600. 

Table  of  the  population,  distinguishing  the  sexes : 

Years.  Males.  Females.  Souls. 

1801,  -  580  -  823  -  1403 

1811,  -  654  -  807  -  1461 

1821,  -  639  -  804  -  1443 

1831,  -  612  -  824  -  1436 

1836,  -  643  -  851  -  1494 

In  the  enumeration  of  1836,  seamen  belonging  to  registered 
vessels  are  included ;  a  class  excluded  from  the  Government  enu- 
merations of  the  four  preceding  periods.  These  are  18  in  num- 
ber. The  actual  increase  of  population  since  1831  has  been  oc- 
casioned by  the  re-opening  of  Torrie  colliery,  and  the  influx  in 
consequence  into  the  parish  of  13  families  of  colliers,  consisting  of 
65  souls. 

Of  the  population  in  1836,  residing  in  villages,  that  of  Torry- 
burn  was  655,  of  Torrie  or  Newmill,  394;  of  Crombie  Point,  81 ; 
and  of  Crombie,  47. 

Average  annual  number  of  births  and  baptisms  : 

^  Aver,  an-  v<.o,o  Ycurt  ^"^^^ 

Y^^-^^     nual  No.  nual  No.  nual  No. 

1635-40,  464  1771-80,  92i  1811-20,  40J^ 

1665-70,  67  1781-90,  64-1^^  1821-30,  39^ 

1671-80,  57f5  1791-1800,  51^=^  1831-35,  33| 

1763-70,  63|  1801-10,  42  f\ 

During  the  lastthirty  or  forty  years,  the  register  is  not  complete  ; 

parents  not  unfrequently  neglecting  to  have  the  names  of  their 

children  inserted  in  it  ;  while,  unhappily,  there  are  families  who 

are  altogether  indifferent  about  religious  ordinances,  and  whose 

children  in  consequence  are  unbaptized.     Including  those  which 

have  not  been  inserted  in  the  register,  the  average  annual  number 


734 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  births  during  the  last  seven  years  may  be  estimated  at  48  or 
50. 

Average  annual  number  of  marriage  contracts,  including  those 
where  the  man  or  where  both  parties  were  resident  in  the  parish, 
but  not  those  where  the  woman  only  was  resident. 


Years. 

1635-40, 
1652-57, 
1763-70, 
1771-80, 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 
91 
144 
94 
12 


Years, 


1781 
1791 

1801-10, 
1811-20, 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 

90,  10-fV 
1800,  64- 


Years. 

1821-30, 
1831-35, 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 

8| 


5t 
6f 


10* 


Average  annual  number  of  burials  : 


Years. 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 
1696-1700,  621 
1701-10, 
1711-20, 
1721-30, 
1731-40, 


42 
404 


Years. 

1741-50 
1751-60, 
1761-70, 
1771-80, 
1781-90, 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 

34t% 
464 

^  MO 

44-r3- 


Years. 


Aver,  an- 
nual No. 


1791-1800, 

1801-10, 

1811-20, 

1821-30, 

1831-35, 


36f 
2QI 
25* 
26f 
32 


N.  B. —  In  1697,  a  year  of  great  scarcity,  the  number  of  burials 
was  114. 

State  of  the  population  in  June  7,  1841  : 


Houses. 


Souls. 


Torryburn  village, 
Torry  village, 
Crombie  Point  village, 
Country,  north  part. 
Country,  south  part, 

Total, 


Age. 

Under  5, 

From  5  to  10, 
10  —  15, 
15  —  20, 
20  —  25, 
25  — ;30, 
30  —  35, 
35  —  40, 
40  —  45, 
45  —  50, 


Males. 
82 


82 
63 
58 
54 
37 
37 
28 
45 
29 


Uninhab.  Inliab. 

Families. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

8 

107 

152 

231 

371 

602 

6 

97 

107 

166 

245 

411 

1 

14 

16 

17 

37 

54 

1 

34 

39 

82 

82 

164 

5 

40 

46 

95 

109 

204 

21 

292 

360 

591 

844 

1435 

Ages 

of  the  population 

emales. 

Total. 

Age. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

106 

188 

50  _  55, 

20 

41 

61 

86 

168 

55  —  60, 

16 

21 

37 

94 

157 

60  —  65, 

20 

34 

54 

79 

137 

65  —  70, 

8 

20 

28 

68 

122 

70  —  75, 

7 

12 

19 

7] 

108 

75  —  80, 

1 

.  8 

9 

42 

79 

80  —  85, 

4 

11 

15 

52 

80 

85  —  90, 

0 

1 

1 

50 

95 

95, 

0 

1 

1 

47 

76 

Total, 

591 

844 

1435 

Of  the  entire  population,  1097  were  born  in  the  county  of  Fife, 
310  in  other  parts  of  Scotland,  25  in  England,  1  in  Ireland,  1  of 
English  parents  abroad,  and  1  of  foreign  parents  abroad. 

Of  the  360  families  in  the  parish,  52  consisted  of  1  person  in 
each,  58  of  2,  68,  of  3,  45  of  4,  46  of  5,  38  of  6,  25  of  7,  18  of 
8  6  of  9,  1  of  11,  1  of  13,  and  2  of  14  persons  in  each. 


TORHYBUllN. 


735 


IV. —  iNDtSTKY. 

Families  chiefly  employed  in 
Trade,  nianu- 

Years.       Agriculture.        factures,  and       All  others. 

handicraft. 

1811,      -      61         -         301  -  4 

1821        .       65         -         284         .  3 
!S1:      -       S         -         120         -  182 
In  1836,  the  total  number  of  persons  of  all  ages  belonging  to 
the  agricultural  class  was  359  ;  to  other  classes,  1135. 

In  1831,  in  the  return  made  to  Government,  of  the  male  popu- 
lation upwards  of  twenty  years  of  age,  there  were,  agricultural  oc- 
cupiers of  the  first  class,  15 ;  do.  of  the  second  class,  5  ;  agricul- 
tural labourers,  54;  manufacturers  or  weavers,  €3 ;  retail  trade 
and  handicraft,  81  ;  wholesale,  capitalists,  clergy,  and  professional, 
7;  labourers  not  agricultural,  44  ;  all  other  males  upwards  of  twenty 
years,  28 ;  male  servants  upwards  of  twenty  years,  3  ;  female  ser- 
vants of  all  ages,  35.  In  1831,  of  the  males  above  twenty  years  of 
age  employed  in  retail  trade  and  handicraft  occupations  there  were, 
carriers  and  carters  7,  slaters  7,  bakers  6,  carpenters  6,  sawyers  6, 
shoemakers  6,  cabinet-makers  5,  publicans  5,  tailors  5,  black- 
smiths 4,  masons  3,  wheelwrights  3,  grocers  3,  butchers  2,  millers 
2,  plasterers  2,  house-painter  1 ,  clock  and  watchmaker  1,  drysalt- 
er  1,  earthenware  1,  cattle-doctor  1,  maltster  1,  shopkeeper  I, 
flax-dresser  1,  wood-merchant  1.    The  number  of  persons  thus 
classified  in  the  return  to  Government  in  1831  is  much  the  same, 
now.    A  few  of  the  weavers  are  employed  in  the  damask  manu- 
facture, for  which  Dunfermline  has  long  been  celebrated  ;  but  most 
of  them  keep  by  the  cotton  manufacture  for  the  Glasgow  market. 
This  last  has  long  been  a  poor  trade ;  but  being  easily  learned, 
and  the  workman  being  his  own  master,  it  is  generally  preferred. 
The  tambouring  and  sewing  of  muslin  give  employment  to  a  con- 
siderable number  of  females.    But  there  is  not  that  briskness  in 
any  of  these  departments  which  would  indicate  a  flourishing  state 
of  trade.    The  extensive  salt  and  coal  works,  which  at  one  time 
contributed  to  the  industry  of  the  parish,  were  given  up  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  last  century.    One  colliery  only  now  remains, 
in  which  about  thirty  pickmen,  and  thirty  labourers  and  others, 
are  employed.    During  the  last  six  years,  the  working  has  been 
confined  to  a  seam  of  3  feet,  containing  in  some  places  1^  feet  of 
parrot  coal  of  very  fine  quality,  suitable  for  gas-works.    The  an- 
nual produce  may  be  stated  at  2500  tons  of  parrot  coal,  and 
6000  tons  of  rough  or  splint  coal,  in  all  8500  tons,  of  which  two- 


736  '  FIFESHIRE. 

thirds  are  shipped,  and  one-third  sold  in  the  adjacent  country. 
The  only  other  public  work  in  the  parish  is  that  of  a  wood-mer- 
chant, whose  establishment  is  extensive  and  flourishing. 

Rent.^The  rent  of  land  in  the  parish  varies  from  L.  1  to  L.  4 
per  acre.  The  average  rent  may  be  stated  at  L.2,  10s.  per  acre. 
The  number  of  farms  is  11.  Several  of  them  may  be  consider- 
ed large  ;  and  m  all  of  them,  we  believe,  the  most  approved  modes 
of  husbandry  are  followed. 

Like  many  other  small  towns  on  the  coast  of  Fife,  Torryburn 
■was  more  of  a  seafaring  place  formerly  than  now.  There  are  still, 
however,  seven  vessels  belonging  to  this  parish,  registering  about 
330  tons.  There  is  a  small  pier  both  at  Crombie  Point  and  at 
Torrie,  but  the  latter  stands  much  in  need  of  repair. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

The  nearest  market-town  is  Dunfermline,  distant  about  three 
miles  from  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  parish,  and  four  and  one- 
third  from  the  parish  church. 

The  villages  are,  Torryburn,  Torrie  or  Newmill,  Crombie  Point, 
and  Crombie,  with  a  population  respectively  of  656,  394,  81, 
and  47. 

By  means  of  a  private  post  from  Dunfermline,  letters  and  news- 
papers are  regularly  received.  There  are  upwards  of  four  miles 
of  excellent  turnpike  road  in  the  parish  ;  but  some  of  the  other 
Toads  are  in  bad  condition,  and  during  the  winter  months,  in  many 
places  almost  impassable.  This  is  a  great  inconvenience  to  se- 
veral families,  as  it  respects  their  attendance  at  church  ;  and  the 
evil  has  recently  been  aggravated,  since  the  shutting  up,  by  the 
proprietor  of  Torrie,  of  a  footpath,  which,  from  time  immemorial, 
had  been  understood  to  be  a  kirk  road.  A  similar  road  in  another 
;part  of  the  parish  was  shut  up  several  years  ago  by  the  then  pro- 
prietor of  Crombie.  Along  the  turnpike  road  a  stage-coach  from 
Kirkaldy,  by  Dunfermline  to  Falkirk,  communicating  with  Glas- 
gow by  the  Forth  and  Clyde  Canal,  passes  every  lawful  day ;  and, 
iby  means  of  a  boat  at  Crombie  Point,  travellers  have  access  to  the 
steam-vessels  that  ply  on  the  Forth  between  Edinburgh  and 
Stirling. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  parish  church,  rebuilt  in  1800,  is  in 
good  condition,  with  the  exception  of  one  of  the  gables,  which  is 
rent  from  top  to  bottom.  It  is  situated  at  the  east  end  of  the  vil- 
lage of  Torryburn,  and  is  not  inconveniently  placed  for  the  great- 
er portion  of  the  inhabitants;  1135  of  the  population  being  dis- 
tant  from  it  not  more  than  one  mile,  and  1289  not  more  than  two 


TORRYBURN. 


737 


miles.  The  number  of  sittings,  allowing  18  inches  to  each,  is 
502,  the  occupancy  of  which  was  found,  in  1836,  to  be  engrossed 
by  a  total  population  of  818.  Of  the  sittings,  214  were  formerly 
let,  besides  others  let  in  a  smuggled  way  by  some  of  the  farmers. 
But  it  is  believed  that  few,  if  any,  will  be  let  in  future ;  the  peo- 
ple being  convinced,  since  their  attention  was  recently  directed  to 
the  matter,  that  the  imposition  of  seat  rents  is  illegal.  An  end, 
it  is  hoped,  has  thus  been  put  to  what  the  minister  regards,  and 
has  publicly  denounced,  as  a  system  of  ungodly  merchandize.  The 
church  is  by  far  too  small  for  the  parish. 

The  stipend  awarded  by  the  Court  of  Teinds  in  1815,  was  216 
bolls,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  besides  6  bolls  meal,  in  lieu  of 
the  old  glebe  of  Crombie ;  L.  1,  13s,  4d.  for  foggage,  and  L.  8, 
6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements.  But,  when  allocated,  owing  to 
an  apparent  want  of  funds,  the  amount,  including  the  allowimce  . 
for  the  glebe  of  Crombie,  for  foggage  and  for  communion  elements, 
was  found  to  be  only  91  bolls,  3  firlots,  1  peck,  3  lippies  meal  ; 
85  bolls,  3  firlots,  1  peck,  3  lippies,  barley  ;  and  L,  20,  6s. 
in  money.  The  glebe  of  Torryburn  consists  of  three  acres,  and 
is  let  at  an  annual  rent  of  L.  9.  The  manse  was  built  in  1768, 
and'  repaired  about  thirty  years  ago.  Most  of  the  apartments  are 
small  and  inconvenient. 

There  is  no  Seceding  or  Dissenting  place  of  worship  in  the  pa- 
rish. The  great  body  of  the  people  profess  to  adhere  to  the  Es- 
tablished Church.  In  1836,  the  religious  profession  of  the  pa- 
rishioners, including  children  with  their  parents,  was  as  follows : 

Communicants.  Total  adherents. 
Established  Church,             .          445  1332 
Other  religious  denominations,            73  160 
Avowed  infidels,         .....  2 

Total,         518  1494 
Of  those  professing  to  be  connected  with  other  denominations 
than  the  Established  Church,  there  were  belonging  to 

Communicants.     Total  adherents. 

United  Secession,  .  57  126 

Relief,                 .  .  7  18 

Original  Burghers,  .  6  10 

Reformed  Presbyterians,  .  2  3 

Episcopalians,  .  I  2 

Galilean  or  French  Church,  ...  1 

73  IGO 

The  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  is  dispensed  twice  a-year; 
the  average  number  of  communicants  being  in  winter  340,  and  in 
summer  370.  There  are  two  Sabbath  schools,  attended  by  about 
60  children.    In  the  church  there  are  two  diets  of  public  wor- 

FIFE.  3  A 


738  FIFESHIRE. 

ship  all  the  year  round  ;  and  these,  for  the  most  part,  are  remark- 
ably well  attended.    We  trust  that  an  increasing  value  is  bemg  at- 
tached to  public  worship  as  a  Divine  ordinance.    But,  for  a  long 
period,  the  views,  in  regard  to  this,  of  a  considerable  part  of  the 
population  in  the  west  of  Fife,  appear  to  have  been  extremely 
low.    Many  seem  never  to  have  thought  of  attendmg  public  wor- 
ship, unless  as  hearers  or  spectators  on  a  communion  Sabbath. 
This  must  have  been  the  case  in  Torryburn  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  last  century,  when,  with  a  population  greater  than  at 
present,  there  were  no  Dissenters.    So,  also,  it  must  have  been 
in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Dunfermline,  where,  before  the  Seces- 
sion took  place,  the  only  place  of  worship  was  the  old  parish 
church,  capable  of  accommodating  a  congregation  of  from  1200 
to  1400,  while  the  population  of  that  parish  was  then  about  8000. 

There  are  no  regularly  constituted  societies  for  religious  pur- 
poses. A  few  individuals  contribute  to  defray  the  expenses  of  a 
monthly  distribution  of  tracts.  The  number  of  copies  distributed 
annually  is  about  3400.  Yearly  collections  are  made  in  aid  of  the 
General  Assembly's  schemes  for  promoting  the  cause  of  Christ. 
These  in  1839  were,  for  colonial  churches,  L.3;  for  church  ex- 
tension,  L.3,  2s.;  for  education,  L.3,  8s.;  for  the  India  mission, 
L.4,  16s.;  for  the  Jews,  L.  5,  4s.;  in  all,  L.  19,  12s.;  besides 
L.  14  contributed  by  individuals  to  particular  exertions  m  connec- 
tion with  the  Church  Extension  scheme. 

Education.-Bes\des  the  parochial  school  there  are  three  others. 
Two  of  these  are  partly  sewing-schools,  taught  by  females.     1  he 
instruction  in  the  parochial  school  consists  of  EngHsh  reading  and 
grammar,  writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  and  Latin  when  requir- 
ed.   The  schoolmaster  is  qualified,  in  addition,  to  give  lessons  in 
Greek  and  French.    His  salary  is  L.  34,  4s.  4^d     The  fees, 
with  other  emoluments,  may  amount  to  L.  46.    1  he  house  pro- 
vided for  him  is  far  from  commodious.    The  school-room,  which 
is  merely  rented  by  the  heritors,  is  unworthy  of  the  parish.  Ihe 
number  of  children  attending  the  several  schools  in  the  parish  may 
be  about  140,    The  number  of  children  between  five  and  fifteen 
vears  of  age,  who  have  been  taught  to  read,  is  351  ;  and  taught 
'to  write  194.    The  total  number  attending  school,  including  those 
who  frequent  schools  in  the adjoiningparishes,  is  about  210  There 
are  three  males  and  three  females,  grown  up,  who  admit  that  the) 
ave  never  been  taught  to  read.    On  the  whole,  the  benefi  .  f 
education  do  not  appear  to  be  so  generally  -Pl-'-'fj^  J/^^^^ 
be  wished;  and  by  many  the  school  fees  are  very  irregularly  paid- 


TORRYBURN. 


739 


There  is  a  small  parochial  library,  but  not  much  of  a  taste  for 
reading. 

Friendly  Societies.— k  most  useful  institution  of  this  description 
is  "  the  dead-box,"  out  of  which  the  contributors  receive  a[]sum  at 
the  death  of  any  member  of  their  families  to  defray  funeral  ex- 
penses ;  L.6  at  the  death  of  a  grown-up  person,  and  L.2  at  the 
death  of  a  child. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — During  the  years' 1835,  1836,  and 
1637,  the  average  annual  amount  of  collections  for  the  poor  at  the 
parish  church  was  L.36,  4s.  9d.  ;  of  voluntary  assessment  by  he- 
ritors, L.I50,  lis.  Id.;  and  of  the  sum  arising  from  mortcloths, 
L.1,  15s.  8d.  The  extravagance  of  the  fees  for  mortcloths  had 
the  effect,  about  ten  years  ago,  of  leading  to  the  formation  of  a 
private  mortcloth  society,  which  is  very  generally  countenanced. 
The  average  number  of  paupers  on  the  permanent  roll  is  33,  and 
the  average  amount  of  the  sums  distributed  amongst  them  annuaU 
ly,  L.141,  14s.  Id.  The  average  annual  expenditure  on  occa- 
sional paupers  is  L.3,  7s.,  and  on  the  education  of  poor  children, 
L.6.  The  highest  annual  rate  of  relief  to  paupers  on  the  perma- 
nent roll  is  L.7,  12s.,  and  the  lowest,  L.2,  12s.  Coals  and  soup 
are  distributed  annually,  in  addition,  to  the  amount  of  about  L.31 ; 
and  several  poor  children  are  educated  at  the  expense  of  the  Hon. 
Mrs  Colvile  of  Ochiltree,  the  lady  of  one  of  the  heritors,  to  whose 
bounty  in  articles  of  clothing  also  many  of  the  poorer  parishioners 
are  indebted.  Generally  speaking,  the  reverse  of  a  spirit  of  re- 
luctance to  receive  parochial  aid  is  manifested ;  and,  in  the  vil- 
lages of  Torryburn  and  Torrie,  one  family  in  six  receives  occa- 
sional charity  in  one  shape  or  another. 

Fairs. — There  is  one  held  annually  at  the  west  end  of  Torry- 
burn village,  on  the  second  Wednesday  of  July.  No  business  is 
now  transacted  beyond  the  sale  of  confections  and  crockery.  In 
the  evening,  there  is  usually  a  horse-race. 

Inns,  Alehouses,  ^-c— Of  these,  there  are  not  fewer  than  14, 
not  to  mention  another,  which,  although  not  within  the  parish,  is 
within  a  hundred  yards  of  its  western  extremity.  A  year  or  two 
ago,  the  number  within  the  parish  was  eighteen  ;  and  for  the  di- 
minution which  has  since  taken  place,  and  which,  it  is  hoped,  will 
go  on  progressively  as  the  holders  of  licenses  die  out  or  remove, 
we  are  mainly  indebted  to  the  enlightened  interference  of  Mr  Be- 
ve  ridge  of  Inzievar. 

Drawn  vp  in  1841.    Revised  January  1843. 


PARISH  OF  KIRKCALDY.  * 

PRESBYTERV  OF  KIRKCALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  ALEXANDER,  MINISTER. 


1. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
]<[ame. — There  seems  to  be  no  good  reason  for  doubting  tlie 
accuracy  of  the  derivation  commonly  given  of  the  name.  It  is 
said  to  be  compounded  of  Cil  or  Kil,  and  Celedei  or  Keledie,  the 
Culdees.  Prior  to  the  introduction  and  establishment  of  Popery 
in  Scotland,  the  Culdees,  who  had  erected  several  religious  esta- 
blishments in  Fife  and  Kinross,  had  one  of  their  houses,  called 
cells,  here ;  hence  the  place  was  called  Kil-celedei.  During  the 
Scoto- Saxon  period  the  name  was  changed  into  Kirkcaledie,  and 
subsequently  it  was  contracted  into  Kirkcaldie  and  Kirkcaldy. 

Extent  and  Boundaries— The  parish  was  originally  large,  but 
is  now  very  small,  in  consequence  of  the  erection  of  the  adjacent 
parish  of  Abbotshall,  the  greater  part  of  which  was  disjoined  from 
Kirkcaldy.    The  parish  consists  of  one  small  farm  ;  a  piece  of 
acre-land,  which  has  been  divided,  from  time  immemorial,  among 
a  number  of  small  proprietors ;  the  burgh  acres ;  and  the  com- 
monties,  with  the  moss  and  moor,  which  at  one  time  belonged  to 
the  town.    It  is  2^  miles  in  length,  and  scarcely  1  m  breadth : 
and  is  bounded  on  the  south-east,  by  the  Frith  of  Forth  ;  on  the 
north-east,  by  the  parish  of  Dysart ;  on  the  north-west,  by  the 
parishes  of  Dysart  and  Auchterderran  ;  and  on  the  south-west,  by 
the  parish  of  Abbotshall. 

Topographical  Appearances.— It  rises  towards  the  north,  for  the 
most  part  very  gradually,  to  an  elevation  of  300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  sea-beach  is  level  and  sandy.  The  parish  em- 
braces about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  of  the  sea-coast.    A  short 

.  ThP  former  Statistical  Account  of  Kirkcaldy  by  Dr  Thomas  Fleming  is  minute 
-  The  fo.mer  htat^s^c  y^^^;>    ^^^^  .^^  ^^^^  , 

Unt:Se\his  Lrrhe  will  not  make  more  special  reference  to  it  m  the  followmg 
pages. 


KIRKCALDY. 


<3istance  inward  from  the  sea'the  land  is  nearly  level,  and  then  it 
rises  rather  abruptly.  On  this  flat  ground,  along  a  section  of  a 
spacious  bay  on  the  north  side  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  the  town 
stands.    It  is  ten  miles  due  north  from  Edinburgh. 

It  may  be  proper  to  mention,  while  speaking  of  the  town  of 
Kirkcaldy,  that  it  comprehends  much  more  than  the  royal  burgh, 
though  this  be  all  of  it  that  lies  within  the  parish.  When  it  is 
viewed  as  a  considerable  sea-port,  and  an  important  manufacturing 
town,  it  must  be  regarded  as  comprehending  Linktown,  in  the  pa- 
rish of  Abbotshall,  West  Bridge,  in  the  parish  of  Kinghorn,  and 
all  this  is  included  within  the  Parliamentary  burgh.  To  this  also 
may  be  added  Pathhead  and  Gallaton,  in  the  parish  of  Dysart. 
These  places  are  all  adjoining,  and  form  one  town,  though  they 
are  looked  upon  as  distinct  by  the  inhabitants,  more  from  the  divi- 
sions of  parishes  than  from  any  thing  else.  The  town,  in  this 
extended  sense,  has  a  population  of  15,000 ;  and  little  more  than 
5000  reside  within  Kirkcaldy  proper. 

C/zmafe.— The  climate  is  dry  and  salubrious,  and  favourable  to 
longevity,  of  which  there  are  numerous  instances.  On  account  of 
the  great  and  sudden  variations  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmo- 
sphere during  the  end  of  spring  and  beginning  of  summer,  croup, 
bronchitis,  and  other  forms  of  thoracic  inflammatory  complaints 
are  prevalent. 

Hydrography. — This  parish  presents  scarcely  any  thing  worthy 
of  notice  under  this  head.  The  East  Burn,  a  small  stream,  after 
receiving  one  or  two  nameless  tributaries  in  its  course,  which  does 
not  exceed  three  miles,  falls  into  the  sea  at  the  point  where  the 
parishes  of  Dysart  and  Kirkcaldy  meet  on  the  coast.  This  rivu- 
let deserves  to  be  mentioned  chiefly  on  account  of  its  romantic 
and  richly  wooded  banks,  which  are  commonly  called  the  Den. 
These  woods  and  banks  are  intersected  with  walks,  to  which  the 
proprietor  allows  the  public  to  have  access  ;  and  thus  the  inhabit- 
ants have  the  privilege  and  advantage  of  a  beautiful  and  agree- 
able retreat  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town. 

Minerals: — The  limited  extent  of  this  parish,  the  absence  of 
rocks  on  its  sea  coast,  and  the  fact,  that,  in  very  few  places, 
the  strata  make  their  appearance  on  the  surface,  render  it  scanty 
in  geological  phenomena.  The  general  dip  of  the  strata,  where 
their  bearings  are  regular,  and  have  not  been  deranged  by  the 
convulsions  which  threw  up  the  trap  rocks,  that  intersect  this  coal- 
field, and  are  so  troublesome  in  the  working  of  the  coal,  is  south- 


742  FIFESHIIIE. 

south-east,  from  a  ridge  near  the  northern  extremity  of  the  parish. 
The  prevailing  strata  are  sandstone,  slate,  clay,  and  till,  contain- 
ing a  number  of  seams  of  coal,  varying  in  thickness  from  9  inches 
to  3i  feet.    Above  the  coal,  which  is  now  being  wrought,  there  is 
a  bed  of  whinstone  8  fathoms  thick.    There  is  only  one  coal-pit 
in  operation  at  present.   It  is  46  fathoms  deep.    The  bed  of  coal 
is  5^  feet  in  thickness  ;  but  the  expense  of  turning  out  this  coal 
is  much  increased,  in  consequence  of  its  being  composed  of  two 
seams,  separated  by  a  stratum  of  clay  15  inches  thick.  This, 
however,  only  lessens  the  value  of  the  coal-field  to  the  proprietor, 
and  does  not  raise  the  price  of  coal  to  the  consumer  ;— for  this  is 
prevented  by  the  competition  of  other  coal-works  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

Considerable  quantities  of  iron  ore  are  also  found  in  this  coal- 
field in  globular  masses.  About  thirty  years  ago,  when  the  iron 
trade  was  more  profitable  than  it  is  just  now,  this  ore  was  wrought 
along  with  the  coal,  and  was  sold  at  10s.  6d.  per  ton  to  the  Car- 
ron  Company.  The  working  of  it  has  been  discontinued  for  many 
years.  The  present  tacksman  of  the  Dunnikier  colliery  could 
find  buyers  of  the  iron  in  England  ;  but  the  prices  offered  are  not 
sufficiently  remunerating  to  encourage  him  to  embark  in  this 

branch  of  trade. 

Soil.— The  soil  of  the  plain  along  the  coast,  on  which  the  town 
is  built,  as  may  be  seen  in  all  the  gardens  on  the  south  side  of  the 
High  Street,  is  exceedingly  sandy.  To  the  north  of  the  High 
Street,  where  the  ground  begins  to  ascend,  and  all  along  the  back 
of  the  town  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  the  soil  is  dry  rich  loam,  and 
very  productive.  On  the  rising  ground  farther  north,  the  sub- 
soil' becomes  retentive,  and  the  land  is  cold,  wet,  and  clay_ey. 
The  part  of  the  parish  most  distant  from  the  sea  is  what  was  for- 
merly  the  town's  common  moor  ;  and,  though  much  has  been  done 
for  it  by  cultivation  and  improvements,  it  still  remains  comparatively 

unproductive.  . 

2ooZo</?/.— Between  twenty  and  thirty  years  ago,  a  little  insect, 
whose  effects  are  denominated  the  American  blight,  made  its  ap- 
pearance here.  Ever  since  that  time,  it  has  been  very  destructive 
to  apple  trees  in  this  parish.  Once  visited  by  it,  they  seldom  after- 
wards recover  health.  Various  expedients  have  been  tried  to  pre- 
vent its  attacks,  and  to  discover  a  remedy  for  the  disease  it  leaves 
behind  it :  but  all  such  attempts  have  hitherto  been  unsuccesstul. 

^..^..-Interesting  as  is  this  district  of  Fife  to  botanists,  the 
parish  of  Kirkcaldy  moy  be  said  to  be  destitute  of  botanical  riches. 


KIRKCALDY. 


743 


No  plants  are  found  in  it,  except  what  are  common  in  similar  lo- 
calities.   The  adjacency  of  the  spot  to  this  parish  may  justify  us 
in  noticing  here,  that  around  Ravenscraig  Castle,  in  the  parish  of 
Dysart,  these  two  rare  plants  are  found,  the  sea -fern  {Aspknium 
marimm,)  and  Alexanders  [Smyrnium  Olusatrum.) 

The  only  plantations  in  the  parish  are  about  Dunnikier  house, 
and  in  the  den  already  mentioned.  They  are  between  sixty  and 
seventy  years  old,  and  contain  various  kinds  of  fir,  beech,  elm, 
and  oak ;  but  they  present  nothing  remarkable. 

II. —  Civil  History. 

No  historical  account  of  this  town  has  ever  been  published. 
Nor  do  the  burgh  records  throw  any  light  on  its  earlier  history. 
It  seems,  however,  to  have  been  a"  place  of  considerable  import- 
ance at  a  very  remote  period.  The  obscurity  of  antiquity  conceals 
what  accident  or  causes  led  the  Culdees  to  plant  an  establishment 
here ;  and  the  date  of  these  Christians  coming  to  occupy  this  as 
one  of  their  stations  is  unknown.  Of  the  existence  of  one  of  their 
houses  here,  no  reasonable  doubt  can  be  entertained.  Its  sup- 
pression, or  at  least  it  being  brought  into  subjection  to  the  religi- 
ous estabhshment  at  Dunfermline,  under  which  it  subsequently 
continued  for  a  long  time,  very  probably  took  place  in  the  earlier 
part  of  the  twelfth  century.  David  I.,  before  the  middle  of  that 
century,  introduced  thirteen  English  monks  from  Canterbury,  be- 
lono-ine  to  the  order  of  St  Benedict,  into  the  Culdee  establish- 
ment  at  DunfermUne :  and  thus  brought  it  under  the  dominion  ot 
the  Pope.  Such  an  innovation  awakened  the  alarm  of  the  Cul- 
dees, by  threatening  their  independence  with  overthrow.  To  re- 
concile them  to  the  change,  and  to  divert  their  attention  from  the 
danger  of  their  contemplated  overthrow,  the  king  elevated  the 
priory  of  Dunfermline  to  the  rank  of  an  abbey  ;  and  to  flatter 
them  still  farther,  it  is  said  he,  at  the  same  time,  suppressed  the 
Culdees  of  Kirkcaldy,  or  made  them  subordinate  to,  and  depend- 
ent on,  the  newly  erected  abbey. 

The  first  authentic  notice  of  the  town,  except  what  is  vague 
and  general,  from  which  the  commencement  of  its  history  must 
be  dated,  is  its  erection  into  a  burgh  of  regality  in  the  year  1334. 
David  II.  at  this  date  mortified  Kirkcaldy  to  the  abbot  of  Dun- 
fermline, and  his  successors.  For  more  than  a  century,  it  was 
held  by  this  monastery,  and  used  in  all  probability  as  the  princi- 
pal sea-port  of  Dunfermline.  In  1450,  the  commendator  and  con- 
vent of  Dunfermline,  "gave,  granted,  and  disponed  to  the  bailies 
and  community  of  the  burgh  of  Kirkcaldy,  then  present,  and  their 


744 


FIFESHIUE. 


successors,  for  ever,  the  burgh,  the  harbour  of  the  same,  and  all 
burgage  forms  of  the  said  burgh,  with  the  small  customs,  lie  tolls, 
stallages,  with   courts  and  their  issues;  also  common  pasture 
■within  the  muir  of  Kirkcaldy,  and  pertinents  thereof,  as  freely  in 
all  and  by  every  respect  as  the  burgesses  of  the  burgh  of  Dun- 
fermline have  enjoyed  and  possessed."    Not  long  after  this  dis- 
position was  granted,  the  holding  of  the  burgh  was  changed. 
From  being  one  of  the  burghs  of  the  lordship  of  Dunfermline,  it 
was  erected  into  a  free  royal  burgh,  with  all  the  privileges  of  other 
royal  burghs.  The  original  charter  having  been  lost,  the  date  of  the 
royal  burgh's  erection  is  unknown.   Charles  I.  granted  a  charter  of 
confirmation  to  Kirkcaldy  in  1644,  ratifying  all  its  former  rights 
and  immunities ;  and  erecting  it  de  novo,  into  a  "  new  free  burgh 
royal,"  with  enlarged  powers  and  privileges.    Prior  to  the  grant- 
ing of  this  charter,  the  magistracy  consisted  of  two  bailies  and  a 
treasurer,  but  the  charter  of  Charles  gave  power  to  choose  "  a 
provost,  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  and  a  treasurer,  for  administra- 
tion of  justice,  and  government  of  the  burgh."    The  provost  has 
also  the  title  of  admiral. 

Historical  Notices.— Th\s  town  suffered  severely  during  the  civil 
war  that  followed  the  contest  between  the  English  Parliament  and 
Charles  I. ;  and  also  in  the  struggle  maintained  by  the  Covenan- 
ters in  Scotland.  It  appears  from  a  statement  in  the  burgh  re- 
cords, that  no  less  than  94  vessels  belonging  to  this  port,  of  the 
value  of  L.53,000  Sterling,  'were  lost  at  sea,  or  taken  by  the  enemy, 
between  the  beginning  of  the  war  and  the  restoration.  The  pub- 
lic authorities  and  inhabitants  of  Kirkcaldy  espoused  the  cause  of 
the  Parliament,  and  opposed  the  Royalists. 

The  cause  of  the  Covenanters  also  was  well  supported  here. 
The  presbytery  records  show,  that  the  cause  was  popular  in  th& 
district,  and  that  the  covenant  was  very  generally  subscribed. 
This  parish  added  a  large  force  to  the  Covenanters,  as  may  be 
inferred  from  the  circumstance,  that  the  battle  of  Kilsyth  alone, 
in  1645,  is  said  to  have  left  200  widows  in  the  town.    The  ge- 
neral feeling  may  be  gathered  from  the  session  records,  in  which 
we  find  "  runawayes  from  their  cullors  warnit,"  and  "  declaired 
contumacious."    Sums  were  allowed  from  the  poor's  funds  "  for^ 
horses  to  cary  woundit  men,"  and  to  be  given  to  "  woundit  men.'* 
On  the  margins  of  both  the  presbytery  and  session  records,  spe- 
cial notice  is  taken  of  the  «  batell  of  Kilsyth." 

Maps,  §-c.— No  map  or  survey  of  the  town  or  parish  is  known  to- 


KIKKCALDY. 


745 


have  existed  previous  to  1809.  A  plan  of  the  burgh  was  drawn  that 
year  by  Mr  Moore  of  Abbotshall,  preparatory  to  apphcation  be- 
ing made  to  Parliament  for  a  police  bill.  This  map  is  still  pre- 
served. Another  was  made  by  Mr  Wood  of  Edinburgh  in  1824, 
which  is  also  in  possession  of  the  Town-Council.  Mr  John  Sang, 
civil-engineer,  Kirkcaldy,  executed  a  plan  of  the  burgh,  including 
the  whole  of  the  royalty,  in  1840,  when  the  assessment  under  the 
new  Prison  Act  was  to  be  levied  on  the  county  :  one  copy  of 
which  was  deposited  with  the  commissioners  of  supply,  and  ano- 
ther with  the  town-council  of  Kirkcaldy.* 

Eminent  Characters. — Henry  Balnaves  of  Halhill,  who  acted  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  reigns  of  James  V.  and  his  daughter  Mary, 
was  the  son  of  poor  parents  in  the  town  of  Kirkcaldy.  After 
attending  school  at  St  Andrews,  he  went  to  Cologne,  and  prosecut- 
ed his  studies.    While  receiving  a  liberal  education  there,  he  was 
at  the  same  time  instructed  in  the  principles  of  the  Protestant 
faith.    After  his  return  to  Scotland  he  was  appointed  a  Lord  of 
Session  in  1538  ;  and  had  a  seat  in  several  Parliaments.    He  took 
an  active  part  in  forwarding  the  work  of  the  Reformation,  and 
oftener  than  once  sutfered  imprisonment  for  his  zeal.    He  lent 
valuable  assistance,  when  he  was  in  parliament,  to  the  passing  of 
an  act,  that  the  enemies  of  the  reformation  violently  opposed,  for 
allowing  "  baith  the  New  Testament  and  the  Auld,"  to  be  trans- 
lated into  the  vulgar  tongue  and  read.    The  sixth  General  Assem- 
bly of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  appointed  him,  along  with  others, 
in  1563,  "  to  advise  the  Booke  of  Discipline  (viz.  the  first  Book), 
diligentlie,  consider  the  contents  thereof,  noting  their  judgments  in 
writing,  and  to  report  to  the  nixt  General  Assemblie  of  the  kirk."^ 
Mr  George  Gillespie  and  his  brother  Patrick,  whose  names 
are  intimately  associated  with  the  history  of  the  Church  of  Scot- 
land, during  the  period  immediately  subsequent  to  the  second  Re- 
formation, were  sons  of  Mr  John  Gillespie,  second  minister  of 
the  collegiate  charge  of  Kirkcaldy.    George  was  born  in  1613,. 
and  Patrick  in  1617.    George  was  sent  to  college  as  the  presby- 
tery's bursar,  and  was  supported  by  contributions  from  the  kirk- 
sessions,  as  appears  from  the  following  extract  from  Kirkcaldy  ses- 
sion records  :   November  1629,  "  The  session  are  content  that 

These  two  copies  were  legalised  in  the  following  form  : 
Cupar,  27th  October  1840.  This  is  one  of  the  copies  of  the  plan  of  the  boundary 
of  the  royal  burgh  of  Kirkcaldy,  produced  to  the  general  meeting  of  the  commission- 
ers of  supply  for  the  county  of  Fife  held  here  this  day,  along  with  the  agreement  be- 
twixt the  magistrates  of  Kirkcaldy  and  a  committee  of  the  commissioners  of  supply^ 
fixing  the  boundaries  of  the  said  burgh,  and  which  is  referred  to  in  their  minute  of 
this  date. 

(Signed)  G.  Anderson,  Provost.       0.  Tyndall  Bruce,  Convener  of  the  CountyJ 


746 


FIFESHIRE. 


Mr  George  Gillespie  shall  have  as  much  money  of  our  session 
for  his  interteynment,  as  Dysart  gives,  viz.  20  merks,  being  our 
presbytery's  bursar."    He  was  ordained  to  be  minister  of  Wemyss, 
on  the  "  supplication"  of  the  kirk  and  parish,  and  in  opposition 
to  the  wish  and  order  of  the  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews.  Mr 
Robert  Douglas,  minister  of  Kirkcaldy,  who  will  be  noticed  after- 
wards, presided  at  the  ordination.    Mr  Gillespie  was  soon  afte»' 
translated  to  Edinburgh  ;  and  in  1643,  he  was  nominated  and  ap- 
pointed by  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  to 
be  one  of  the  Scotch  Commissioners  to  the  Westminster  Assembly 
of  Divines.    He  was  one  of  its  youngest  members,  and  his  abili- 
ties, acuteness,  knowledge,  and  skill  in  debate,  often  astonished 
the  assembly  and  confounded  his  adversaries.    He  is  described 
by  Principal  Baillie  as  "  the  verie  learned  and  acute  Mr  Gilles- 
pie, a  singular  ornament  of  our  church,  than  whom  no  one  in  the 
whole  assembly  (Westminster,)  speaks  to  better  purpose."  On  one 
occasion,  as  is  related,  after  Selden,  with  all  his  talents  and  eru- 
dition, had  maintained,  in  an  eleborate  speech,  the  supremacy  of 
the  civil  magistrate  in  the  government  of  the  church,  Baillie,  feel- 
ino-  strongly  the  necessity  of  the  arguments  advanced  being  an- 
sw°ered,  said  to  Gillespie,'"  Get  up,  George,  and  defend  the  kirk 
of  your  fathers."    He  replied  with  so  much  learning  and  abdity, 
that  Selden,  feeling  the  overpowering  force  of  Gillespie's  strong 
arguments  and  conclusive  reasoning,  is  reported  to  have  whispered 
to  a  friend  beside  him,  "  that  boy  has,  in  the  course  of  one  speech, 
overturned  the  labours  of  my  past  years."    George  Gillespie  wrote 
Miscellanies,  and  published  also  an  acute  and  able  work,  entitled 
««  Aaron's  Rod  Blossoming,"  for  which  he  is  most  justly  celebrat- 
ed.   He  was  chosen  moderator  of  the  General  Assembly  in  1648, 
and  died  at  Kirkcaldy  in  the  end  of  the  same  year.    A  monu- 
ment was  erected  to  his  memory,  which,  as  an  inscription  on  a 
plain  tablet,  that  still  stands,  informs  us,  was  thrown  down 
through  the  "  malign  influence  of  Archbishop  Sharp."    It  was 
re-erected  in  1745,  by  his  grandson,  the  Rev.  George  Gillespier 
minister  of  Strathmiglo.  The  tablet  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  south- 
east porch  of  the  present  church. 

Mr  Patrick  Gillespie,  besides  being  a  native  of  Kirkcaldy,  was 
for  some  time  minister  of  the  parish.  After  the  death  of  Charles  I. 
he  favoured  the  side  of  the  Commonwealth,  and  was  appointed 
Principal  of  the  University  of  Glasgow.  He  had  to  encounter 
much  opposition  and  many  difficulties,  before  he  could  be  installed 
into  the  office.    At  the  Restoration  he  was  ejected. 


KIKKCALDY. 


747 


Mr  Robert  Douglas,  another  of  the  five  commissioners  ap- 
pointed by  the  General  Assembly  to  repair  to  the  Westminster 
Assembly,  was  for  some  years  one  of  the  ministers  of  this  parish. 
It  does  not  appear  that  he  ever  attended  at  Westminster.  He 
became  one  of  the  ministers  of  Edinburgh,  was  moderator  of  the 
General  Assembly,  and  preached  at  the  coronation  of  Charles  II., 
which  took  place  at  Scone  in  1651. 

Three  individuals  were  born  in  this  town  in  the  earlier  part  of 
last  century,  who  attended  the  burgh  school  at  the  same  time, 
and  contracted  a  friendship  there  that  continued  through  life  ;  and 
each  of  them  attained  a  certain  degree  of  eminence  in  the  station 
he  occupied,  and  the  duties  he  undertook.  We  refer  to  James 
Oswald,  Esq.,  Dr  John  Drysdale,  and  Dr  Adam  Smith. 

Mr  Oswald  of  Dunnikier  represented  the  county  of  Fife  in  one 
Parliament,  and  the  Kirkcaldy  district  of  burghs  in  three,  between 
1741  and  1768.  During  his  parliamentary  career,  by  attention 
to  his  duties,  and  his  talent  for  business,  he  recommended  himself 
to  the  ministry  of  the  day,  and  gained  their  confidence.  He  thus 
secured  for  himself  some  of  the  honours  of  the  State,  and  for  his 
friends,  as  well  as  himself,  the  advantages  of  office.  He  was  a 
privy-counsellor,  and  at  different  times  he  held  the  offices  of  a 
Commissioner  of  Trade,  a  Lord  of  the  Treasury,  and  Vice-Trea- 
surer of  Ireland. 

Dr  Drysdale,  one  of  the  ministers  of  Edinburgh,  was  clerk  to 
the  General  Assembly,  and  was  twice  chosen  moderator.  He 
obtained  his  presentation  to  a  church  in  the  city  through  the  in- 
fluence of  his  friend  and  school  companion,  Mr  Oswald.  It  may 
here  be  noticed,  that,  previous  to  the  appointment  of  Dr  Drysdale, 
the  magistrates  and  town-council  had  entrusted  the  election  of  the 
city  ministers  to  the  general  kirk-session.  But  in  his  case  the 
council  commenced  to  take  the  choice  into  their  own  hands,  "  for 
good  reasons,"  according  to  the  statement  of  the  Doctor's  bio- 
grapher and  son-in-law. 

The  last,  but  by  far  the  greatest  and  most  celebrated  of  the 
three,  was  Dr  Adam  Smith,  the  author  of  the  Inquiry  into  the 
Nature  and  Causes  of  the  Wealth  of  Nations, — a  work  which  laid 
down  principles  and  unfolded  views  of  political  science,  that  startled 
men  by  their  novelty  when  they  were  first  propounded,  but  whose 
soundness  in  general,  whose  enlightened  and  philosophical  cha- 
racter, have  long  been  admitted  and  applauded  by  political  econo- 
mists.   He  was  also  the  author  of  a  work  entitled  the  Theory  of 


748 


FIFESHIRE. 


Moral  Sentiments ;  but  comparatively  little  of  his  well-merited 
and  widely  extended  fame  has  arisen  from  this  treatise.  He  was 
born  here  in  1723.  After  he  left  school,  he  was  absent  from  the 
town  for  many  years,  following  his  literary  pursuits,  and  dis- 
charging his  professional  duties  in  the  chair  of  Moral  Philosophy, 
which  he  for  a  time  occupied  in  the  University  of  Glasgow.  But 
he  returned  again  to  Kirkcaldy,  and  resided  here  while  he  was 
composing  his  celebrated  work.  He  died  in  1789.  It  seems 
strange  that  no  monument  to  his  memory  has  ever  been  erected  in 
Kirkcaldy.  This  want  appears  to  indicate  a  prevailing  insensibility 
to  the  high  honour  conferred  on  the  town,  by  its  being  the  birth- 
place and  long  the  residence  of  a  man  of  such  universal  celebrity. 

Land-owners.— James  Townsend  Oswald,  Esq.  of  Dunnikier, 
is  proprietor  of  seven-eighths  of  the  landward  part  of  the  parish. 
The  other  eighth  is  much  subdivided. 

Parochial  Registers.— Fbe  classes  of  registers  are  preserved, 
viz.  minutes  of  session,  registers  of  proclamations  and  marriages, 
of  births  and  baptisms,  of  deaths  and  burials,  and  accounts  of  the 
collections  and  disbursements  for  the  poor.  The  first  and  the 
last  of  these  are  nearly  entire,  and  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion ;  the  other  three  are  much  mutilated.  The  oldest  volume  of 
the  session  records  commences  with  January  1614,  and  the  same 
volume  contains,  besides  the  minutes  of  session,  a  register  of  bap- 
tisms and  marriages,  commencing  with  the  same  date.  The  mi- 
nutes of  session  from  1645  to  1663  are  wanting.  In  consequence 
of  leaves  being  torn  away  at  the  beginning  of  a  volume,  the  mi- 
Dutes  for  the  year  1632  are  lost.  With  these  exceptions,  the 
minutes  from  1614  are  complete  and  well  kept.  There  are  du- 
plicates for  considerable  periods,  the  scroll  copy  of  the  minutes 

having  been  preserved. 

Jntinuities.-Yavhus  relics,  such  as  sculptured  arms  and  in- 
scriptions, furnish  grounds  for  supposing  that  a  religious  house 
must  at  one  time  have  stood  on  the  north  side  of  the  High  Street. 
Senulchral  remains  also  have  been  found  in  this  locality.  Stone 
coffins,  and  large  quantities  of  human  bones  have  been  discovered 
in  different  places,  by  >vorkmen  digging  for  foundations.  This 
town,  like  many  others  in  ancient  times,  had  gates.  They  were 
can  d  the  east  and  v.est  ports.  The  places  where  they  stood 
sTi  retain  the  names.  These  ports  or  gates,  and  the  cross 
'hLh  stood  at  the  market-place,  were  taken  down  early  in  the 
Hs  century,  of  which  notice  is  taken  in  the  minutes  of  the  town- 
counc  1.    Nothing  like  a  ruin  is  found  in  the  parish. 


KIRKCALDY. 


749 


Modern  Buildings. — Besides  the  parish  church,  which  will  be 
noticed  more  particularly  elsewhere,  we  may  mention  here,  a  new 
and  elegant  church  which  stands  close  upon  the  sea,  on  the  High 
Street,  and  was  erected  last  year.  It  cost  nearly  L.2000,  and  is 
an  ornament  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  town. 

The  town-house  and  jail  form  one  building,  and  it  is  situated 
near  the  middle  of  the  town.  It  is  a  small,  but  very  neat  and  hand- 
some building,  in  the  Saxon  Gothic  style,  and  cost  L.5000.  The 
town-hall  or  council-room,  in  which  the  courts  and  meetings  of 
the  public  bodies  of  the  town  are  held,  is  spacious  and  well-finish- 
ed. It  has  lately  been  furnished  with  a  portrait  of  Walter  Fergus, 
Esq.  of  Strathore,  copied  by  Colvin  Smith,  Esq.  from  an  original 
painting  by  Raeburn.  A  number  of  gentlemen  in  the  town  pre- 
sented it  to  the  council,  to  be  hung  up  in  the  hall,  as  a  memorial  of 
Mr  Fergus's  connection  for  many  years  with  the  advancement  and 
prosperity  of  the  trade  and  public  affairs  of  the  burgh. 

The  town  is  chiefly  indebted  for  recent  and  extensive  architec- 
tural improvements  to  the  banks.  The  Bank  of  Scotland,  the 
Commercial  Bank,  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  the  Glas- 
gow and  Ship  Bank  have  all  branches  here.  They  have  all  built 
large  and  elegant  offices,  and  houses  for  the  agents,  on  the  High 
Street.  Besides  the  ornament  of  the  bank  buildings  themselves 
to  the  street,  it  may  be  remarked,  that  they  have  improved  the 
style  of  building  around,  and  thus  the  aspect  of  the  town  has  been 
greatly  changed  of  late  years. 

In  the  parish  there  is  Dunnikier  House,  the  seat  of  James 
Townsend  Oswald,  Esq.,  and  in  the  town,  or  its  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood, there  are  three  villas  meriting  notice,  viz.  that  of  John 
Fergus,  Esq.  of  Strathore;  Balsusney,  the  property  of  Colonel  Fer- 
guson of  Raith  ;  and  St  Brice-dale,  the  property  of  William  Stark 
Dougall,  Esq.  of  Scotscraig. 

III. — Population. 
No  traces  remain  of  any  census  of  this  parish  having  been 
taken  prior  to  1755;  but  the  parochial  registers  furnish  data  upon 
vvhich  we  may  approximate  at  least  to  the  amount  of  the  popula- 
tion at  a  much  earlier  date.  The  births,  annually  registered,  on 
an  average  during  the  ten  years  commencing  with  1614  were 
1 15.  This  number  is  much  larger  than  the  register  has  annually 
received  for  many  years  past.  The  practice  of  registration  was 
more  general  then,  we  apprehend,  than  it  is  at  present ;  for  the 
injury  done  to  the  interests  of  children  by  the  inattention  of  pa- 


750 


FIFESHIRE. 


rents  to  this  duty  is  matter  for  regret.    If  we  suppose  the  popu- 
lation to  have  been  as  35  to  1  of  the  births,  it  must  have  been  at 
this  period  4025.    Its  rapid  increase  after  this  date  may  be  infer- 
red from  the  facts,  that  the  church  required  to  be  enlarged  in 
1643,  and  in  1650  Abbotshall  was  disjoined  from  Kirkcaldy,  and  a 
new  church  was  erected.    From  1640  to  1650,  the  average  of 
births  was  174,  making  the  population  6090.  This,  it  will  be  ob- 
served, included  the  present  parish  of  Abbotshall,  the  population 
of  which,  together  with  that  of  Kirkcaldy,  is  at  present  about 
10,000.    This  gives  an  idea  of  the  comparative  size  and  import- 
ance of  this  parish,  at  dates  two  centuries  distant.    The  trade  of 
the  town  was  nearly  annihilated,  and  the  number  of  its  inhabitants 
was  greatly  reduced  during  the  forty  years  that  intervened  between 
the  death  of  Charles  I.  and  the  Revolution.   The  population  has 
been  gradually  increasing  for  a  century  past. 

Population  in  1735,  .  2296 

1795,  .  2673 

1801,  .  3248 

1811,  .  3747 

1821,  .  4452 

1831,  .  5034 

The  following  abstract  of  the  census  taken  on  the  7th  June  1841 , 
in  order  to  make  a  return  to  Parliament,  will  serve  to  exhibit  the 
state  of  the  population  at  present.  The  return  contained  the  num- 
ber of  persons  who  slept  in  the  parish  on  the  night  of  the  6th  June, 

Males.  Females.  Total. 
In  the  East  Port  parish  (quoad  sacra),  .  912  1065  1977 
In  the  rest  of  the  old  parish  within  the  royal       ^^^^         ^^^^  ^^^^ 

Within  the  royal  burgh.  2204  2341  4745 
In  part  of  the  parliamentary  burgh  outside  the 

royal  burgh,  and  within  the  parish,  .  149  ^10  ^oo 
Landward  part  of  the  parish  beyond  the  par- 

liamentary  boundary  of  the  burgh,         .  b4  oi  i-^ 

On  shipboard  in  the  harbour,          '          '  of  5  26 

In  the  jail,  .  •      

In  the  whole  parish,  2430        2825  5275 

sailors,  65 


f  >  sailors,  65 

I  From  royal  burgh,  >  other  males,  51 
I  )  females,  64 


Temporarily  absent,  and  not  in-     I  1  X  s''  3 

eluded  in  the  above  returns,     I  .      .       I  ,  % 

'  From  rest  of  pansh,  >  other  males,  2 

I  females,  3 


Total,          .  188 

,  .    ,  J  J  •     )  within  royal  burgh,  males,  34 

Temporarily  resident,  and  included  m  f                            females,  37 

the  above  return,                       ^  in  rest  of  the  parish,  males,  2 

Total,          .  73 


KIRKCALDY, 


751 


At  the  time  of  taking  the  census  there  was  no  apparent  cause 
for  any  unusual  influx  or  decrease  in  the  population  of  this  parish. 
Very  few  have  emigrated  of  late  years  from  this  place. 

Number  of  families  in  the  parish,  .  •  10^7 

Houses,  or  parts  of  houses  usually  occupied  by  one  family  that  are  empty,  87 
Houses  building,  .  •        _  ^ 

No  register  of  deaths  is  kept ;  but  the  average  number  of  burials  an- 
nually in  the  church-yard  during  the  last  ten  years,  .  82 

This  must  be  rather  under  than  above  the  number  of  deaths  in 
the  parish. 

No  noble  family  has  a  residence  within  the  parish,  and  very  few 
others,  except  annuitants,  that  live  upon  their  fortunes  indepen- 
dently of  business.  There  are  only  two  landed  proprietors  whose 
yearly  incomes  from  their  land  within  the  parish  exceed  L.lOO,  viz. 
James  Townsend  Oswald,  Esq.  of  Dunnikier,  and  John  Fergus, 
Esq.  of  Strathore.  The  property  of  Mr  Fergus,  however,  lies 
chiefly  in  adjoining  parishes. 

A  spirit  of  enterprise,  directed  and  regulated  by  that  prudent 
caution  which  naturally  accompanies  the  possession  and  employ- 
ment of  real  capital  in  business,  pervades  this  manufacturing  and 
commercial  community,  and  prevents  the  town  from  being  visited 
with  those  sudden  and  ruinous  convulsions,  which  the  rashness  of 
mere  speculators,  whom  injurious  facilities  of  obtaining  credit 
raise  up  and  sustain  for  a  time,  too  frequently  brings  upon  other 
trading  districts.  The  habits  and  conduct  of  the  merchants  and 
manufacturers,  who  are  commonly  capitalists  to  a  greater  extent 
than  is  general  throughout  the  country,  in  the  management  of  their 
business,  and  the  nature  of  the  trade  itself,  give  a  steadiness  to 
the  various  branches  of  industry,  and  exercise  a  very  salutary  in- 
fluence on  the  community  generally. 

The  demoralizing  practice  of  smugghng,  chiefly  from  Holland, 
prevailed  here  at  one  time  to  a  great  extent.  It  has  now  almost 
entirely  disappeared.  Of  late  years,  the  officers  have  never  de- 
tected smuggling,  except,  and  this  very  seldom,  in  the  case  of 
small  craft  from  France,  which  sometimes  bring  along  with  their 
cargoes  of  fruit,  larger  quantities  of  brandy  than  the  crew  may  be 
thought  to  require  as  sea-store. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — This  parish  contains  1050  imperial  acres,  of  which 
160  acres  are  planted.  With  this  exception,  all  of  it  is  under  cultiva- 
tion ;  but,  from  its  small  extent,  it  affords  little  scope  for  remarks 


752 


FIFESHIRE. 


under  this  head.  The  land  near  the  town,  from  its  superior  qua- 
lity, from  facilities  for  obtaining  manure,  and  from  the  ready  mar- 
ket found  for  produce,  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  season, 
brings  a  rent  varying  from  L.4,  10s.  to  L.6,  6s.  per  acre.  The  land 
becomes  less  valuable  in  the  remoter  part  of  the  parish,  not  only 
from  locality,  but  also  from  inferiority  of  soil,  and  its  rent  is  from 
L.2  to  L.3  per  acre.  The  average  rent  per  acre  of  the  whole  pa- 
rish may  be  stated  at  L.3,  10s. 

Mines.— One  coal-pit  is  at  present  in  operation.  Forty  [pick- 
men)  colliers  are  employed  in  it,  besides  labourers,  and  young  per- 
sons to  draw  the  coals  below  ground. 

Manufactures.— The  capital  of  the  burgesses  seems  at  one  time 
to  have  been  chiefly  employed  in  shipping.  This  interest  receiv- 
ed a  shock,  during  the  civil  war  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  which 
aff-ected  the  prosperity  of  the  town  for  a  century  and  a  half.  After  the 
shipping  interests  declined,  and  were  destroyed,  manufactures  were 
introduced.  With  the  increase  and  prosperity  of  manufactures, 
the  shipping  of  the  port  has  been  revived,  and  the  town,  from  the 
union  of  the  shipping  and  manufacturing  interests,  now  numbers 
amon.  its  inhabitants  not  a  few,  who  are  entitled  to  the  honourable 
appellation  of  British  merchants,  and  occupy  no  mean  place  among 
them,  whether  we  regard  the  capital  they  employ,  the  sp.nt  of  en- 
terprise  they  manifest,  or  the  extent  of  their  business. 

The  principal  trade  of  the  town  is  the  manufacture  of  various 
descriptions  of  linen,  with  the  collateral  branches  of  ^-^-H---^' 
h\eJ\n<r,  and  machine-making.    This  trade  was  probably  int  o- 
duced  from  Holland  and  Flanders  about  the  time  of  the  Revolu- 
tion, or  early  in  the  last  century.    It  was  long  very  limited,  it 
Tde  little  p'rogress  till  after  the  middle  of  tl-  l-t  century  as 
following  facts  demonstrate.  In  1733,  no  more  than  1  /  ^'740  ja  ds 
of  linen  were  manufactured  in  this  district,  including  Ahbotshal  , 
Dv  art  Leslie,  &c.    It  had  increased  in  1743  to  316,550  yards, 
Uie  value  of  which  was  L.11,000.    The  infancy  of  the  trade,  the 
want  of  facilities  for  extending  it,  and  the  advancement  it  made 
I"ng  these  ten  years,  may  be  seen  in  the  anxiety  and  ca  e 
Manifested  by  the  authorities  to  afford  it  all  possible  encourage- 
!n      n  1739,  «  the  town-council,  considering  the  great  bene6t 
T  :    n  mav  receive  by  an  annual  market  for  linen-cloth  and 
LrgToCth:  :ppoin?the  same  to  be  held  on  the  flrst  Wed 
A  \f  Tnlv  and  to  be  custom-free  for  three  years.      in  t  ie 
:l";a""  IU  councU,  considering  ,,ow  ™uch  ,t  wU  be  tor  the 


KIRKCALDY. 


753 


benefit  of  the  town  and  country  that  a  heckler  of  hnt  be  esta- 
blished, they,  therefore,  unanimously  resolve  to  make  application 
to  the  trustees  that  a  heckler  be  settled  here  with  such  a  salary, 
and  under  such  regulations,  as  the  trustees  judge  proper."  About 
the  same  time  advantages  were  held  out  to  bleachers,  and  encou- 
ragement was  given  them  to  settle  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
goods  manufactured  at  this  time  consisted  chiefly  of  linen  checks 
of  inferior  quality,  which  were  commonly  sold  to  Glasgow  mer- 
chants for  exportation  ;  and  linen  handkerchiefs,  checks,  and  a 
coarse  description  of  ticks  not  now  manufactured  ;  all  for  the  home 
trade.  The  goods  were  conveyed  by  the  manufacturers  on  horse- 
back to  the  various  towns  m  Scotland,  and  were  mostly  sold  at 
fairs. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  last  century,  a  great  stimulus  was  given 
to  the  linen  trade  of  Kirkcaldy  by  the  judgment  and  energy  of  Mr 
James  Fergus, — a  name  justly  associated  with  the  extension  and 
prosperity  of  the  trade  of  the  town.  He  set  himself  to  produce 
ticking  for  the  home-trade  in  England.  After  he  had  discovered 
the  tweel,  and  had  provided  materials  for  making  this  fabric  of  the 
first  quality,  he  was  unable  to  find  weavers  who  could  give  the 
cloth  the  requisite  stiffness  and  smoothness.  The  difficulty  was 
at  last  overcome  by  a  weaver  discovering  the  effect  of  what  is  still 
denominated  "  the  open  stroke."  The  effect  of  this  stroke  in  the 
weaving  upon  the  cloth  is,  in  the  language  of  a  workman,  to  make 
it  as  smooth  as  a  "  buik  leaf."  This  opened  up  a  new  trade,  and 
ticking  is  still  the  staple  article  in  the  manufactures  of  Kirkcaldy. 
Mixed  cotton  and  linen-checks  were  made  for  the  same  market  • 
they  were  produced  in  large  quantities,  and  continued  to  be  sold 
with  profit  till  they  were  superseded  by  the  cheaper  and  more 
showy  article  of  cotton.  Besides  ticks,  there  are  now  manufac- 
tured in  the  town,  drills,  dowlas,  sheetings,  ducks,  and  sail-cloth. 

It  was  difficult  at  one  time  for  manufacturers  to  extend  their 
business,  in  consequence  of  being  obliged  to  provide  houses  for 
their  weavers.  Their  trade  was  proportionate  to  the  number  of 
weavers  they  could  accommodate.  This  practice  is  not'  yet  alto- 
gether done  away,  but  weavers  now  generally  find  houses  for  them- 
selves,  and  seek  after  manufacturers  who  are  willing  to  employ 
them.  Females  began  to  weave  here  between  forty  and  fifty  years 
ago  :  and  they  now  form  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  number 
employed. 

The  trade  is  carried  on  chiefly  by  eight  manufacturing  houses 

FIFE.  3  jj 


754  FTFESHIRE. 

or  establishments.    Besides  these,  there  are  a  few  individuals  who 
occasionally  make  webs.    The  manufacturers  employ  1 100  weav- 
ers.*   Of  this  number  113  work  in  two  factories,  erected  for  the 
manufacture  of  canvas.    This  branch  of  trade  was  introduced  in 
1811;  and  the  manufacturers  of  sail-cloth  here  generally  obtain 
a  share  of  government  contracts  for  the  navy.    Only  119  weav- 
ers exclusive  of  the  factory  workmen,  are  accommodated  with 
looms  within  the  parish.    Accordingly,  many  weavers  in  the  ad- 
ioining  parishes  and  surrounding  villages,  are  employed  by  the 
manufacturers  of  Kirkcaldy.     The  average  earning  of  weavers  is 
6s  6d.  per  week  ;t  and  the  price  of  weaving  is  from  one-fifth  to 
tw'o-ninths+  of  the  value  of  the  goods  when  they  are  ready  for  the 
market     The  gross  value  of  the  linens  annually  manufactured 
widiin  the  burgh  may  be  estimated  at  L.80,000.    Of  the  whole 
manufactures  in  the  town,  in  the  extended  sense  already  explain- 
ed including  the  Links  and  Pathhead,  two-fifths  are  said  to  be 
produced  within  the  burgh  ;  so  that  the  value  of  the  various  de- 

.  The  writer  wishes  to  acknowledge  the  kindness  of  all  the  manu  fact  a  rers  in  an- 
•  „  iX  nnuTries  furnishing  him  with  information,  and  affording  him  data  and 

^u?of  UiSum  the  weaver  has  to  pay  the  winding  of  his  weft,  and  all  other  ex- 
penses. A  very  ^^^^^^^ ^X^]::^t6u^^^^  agreed  upon 
J:TeZVo,^^nZ:^^^^^^^^  i»  the^town.hali  Kirkcaldy,  Au- 

gust 8th  1838.  Linen  Ticks. 

Stout  men  at  the  finest  fabrics,  (42  and  45  porter,)    L.  0    8  3 
Do        Second  class,  (36  and  40    do.  X    1  n 

Older  men  and  boys,  (28  and  34  do.    )         0    5  9 

Making  an  average  of  0    7  <i 

Fine  Sheetings. 

Stout  men  at  finest  fabrics,  (40  porter  I  and  upwards)     0    6  0 

Older  men  and  women,     (36    do.  |         do.       )      "    ^  .J 

Making  an  average  of  U    o  1 1 

Dowlas. 

Men  and  young  women  10- and  13- I  •  0    6  6 

1  ads  and  women,  34  and  45,  porter,  30  inches,  .  0  ^  ^ 
Boys  andgirls,  apprentices.  26  and  32  porter  25  inches,  0    3  0 

Sail- Cloth. 

Heavv  work  (in  factories)  stout  men,       .  Vt   ^  \v«.„orc 

Heavy  wo     v  ^^^^  Assistant  Commissions  Hand- Loom  W  eavers. 

1.    J  *o  r^fthi.!  ronort  weavers' wages  have  been  reduced  10  per  cent. 
^' Thi  p'rop  vt^n  1^^^^^^^^^  4  taking  from  the  books  of  two  manu  ae- 

+  ^^.Xr  of  webs  eiven  out  to  different  weavers  in  succession,  and  may  there- 

turers  a  "":"^^[.°;rfefr ^average of  their  business.  The  gross  value  of  theone  num- 
fore  be  regarded  as  a  t.nr  aver.it^c  weaving,  L.43,  6s.  6d.  Ihe 

,er,  which  are  an  ticks  is  ^^^J^,'^^;::,  ^Zs,  isl.  123.  19s.  O^d. ;  the 
value  of  the  otjier  "~3s!  8™d  The  expense  of  weaving  fine  ticks  is  nearly  one- 
t,rice  of  weaving,  L  2J,J^^^^^^^^^  ^,,^.,.,,.,„  .  eoarser  fabrics,  one- 

SrlnS'L  bt^aiSotfi/one-eigh  Nothing  is  here  allowed  for  the  manu- 
facturer's  profit. 


KIRKCALDY. 


755 


scriptioiis  of  linen  goods  annually  manufactured  in  the  town  may 
be  reckoned  at  not  less  than  L.  200,000.  Besides  the  home  trade 
in  England  and  Scotland,  these  linens  find  markets  in  Canada, 
the  United  States,  South  America,  the  West  Indies,  and  Australia. 

The  manufactures  have  created  an  extensive  trade  in  bleaching 
and  dyeing.  Some  manufacturers  dye  their  own  yarns,  others  em  - 
ploy public  dyers.  There  are  only  two  bleachfields  in  the  parish, 
one  of  them  is  doing  very  little  business  ;  but  there  are  other  five 
in  different  parts  of  the  county,  belonging  to  merchants  and  ma- 
nufacturers in  the  burgh.  The  yearly  receipts  for  bleaching  yarns 
at  these  seven  bleachfields  amount  to  fully  L. 30,000. 

Previous  to  the  introduction  of  mill-spun  yarn,  manufacturers 
got  their  flax  dressed  in  the  town,  and  sent  it  to  agents  through- 
out the  country,  to  be  given  out  to  women  to  be  spun.  Inferior 
yarns  were  imported  in  large  quantities  from  Germany  and  Prus- 
sia. Hand- spun  yarns  were  also  brought  from  Ireland,  and  par- 
cels were  occasionally  procured  from  the  north  of  Scotland.  The 
difficulty  of  obtaining  supplies  of  yarn  was  so  great,  that  orders  for 
goods  had  often  to  be  refused.  Yarns  continued  to  be  imported 
till  witliin  the  last  ten  years. 

Cotton  spinning  was  carried  on  here  till  about  1805.  It  was  on 
a  very  limited  scale  however,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact,  that 
neither  steam  nor  water  power  was  ever  apjilied  to  it. 

Flax-spinning,  by  machinery,  was  introduced  into  this  neigh- 
bourhood from  Darlington  about  1793.  At  first  the  frames  were 
small,  and  were  driven  by  the  hand.  In  1807,  a  steam-engine  of 
six  horse-power  was  applied  to  flax-spinning.  The  price  of  mill- 
spinning  after  its  introduction  was  from  Is.  to  2s.  perspyndle;  at 
present  it  is  not  more  than  3d.  to  5d.,  and  the  price  of  a  spyndle 
of  yarn  used  in  the  common  manufacture  of  the  district,  is  from 
Is.  6d.  to  2s..  At  present  a  girl  will  attend  fifty  spindles,  and 
will  produce  25  spyndles  of  yarn  per  day.  About  forty  years  ago  a 
girl  attended  24  spindles,  and  produced  seven  spyndles  per  day. 
Mills  are  now  erected  in  Kirkcaldy  or  the  neigbourhood,  belong- 
ing to  merchants  and  manufacturers  within  the  burgh,  which  con- 
tain 13000  spindles,  the  cost  of  erecting  which  must  have  been 
L.90,000,  and  they  will  produce  6000  spyndles  of  yarn  per  day. 
Besides  supplying  the  manufacturers  in  the  district,  the  spinners 
now  export  large  quantities  of  linen  yarns  to  France.  Notwith- 
standing the  difficulties  interposed  by  the  additional  import  duties 
on  linen  yarns  lately  imposed  by  the  French  government,  the  trade 


756 


FIFESHIRE. 


with  France  is  still  carried  on.  The  yarns  annually  exported  for 
the  previous  two  years,  from  Kirkcaldy,  may  be  estimated  at  about 
700  tons,  the  value  of  which  will  be  upwards  of  L.60,000. 

The  progress  and  prosperity  of  flax-spinning  called  for  en- 
gineers and  machine-makers,  consequently  a  large  and  import- 
ant  branch  of  this  trade  has  recently  sprung  up.     There  are 
in  the  parish  three  works,  engaged  chiefly  in  making  steam-en- 
gines, and  flax-spinning  machines,  in  executing  mill-wright  work, 
and  in  founding  iron  and  brass.    In  these  three  works  200  men,  at 
an  average  wage  of  I5s.  per  week,  are  employed.  The  mills  in  the 
district  have  not  furnished  sufficient  employment  for  these  esta- 
blishments, especially  during  the  depression  of  late  years;  but  ex- 
tensive orders  have  been  executed  in  them  for  Ireland,  the  conti- 
nent of  Europe,  and  the  British  colonies.  The  capital  invested  in 
these  works  will  amount  to  L.21,000;  and  steam-engines,  equal 
to  twenty  horses  power,  are  constantly  employed  in  them. 

Navigation.— Vhe  port  of  Kirkcaldy,  including  the  sub-port  of 
Anstruther,  extends  from  Aberdour,  in  the  Frith  of  Forth,  to 
Guard  Bridge,  in  the  upper  part  of  St  Andrews  Bay,  bemg  about 
fifty-two  miles  of  coast.    The  registered  shipping  consists  of  160 
vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of  12,077.  There  belong  to  the  head  port 
91  vessels— 8911  of  tonnage.   Two  smacks  ply  regularly  between 
•  London  and  Kirkcaldy;  and  there  are  regular  traders  from  Kirk- 
caldy to  Leith  and  Glasgow.    Two  vessels  are  engaged  in  whale- 
fishing;  the  rest  in  trading  to  North  and  South  America,  the 
Mediterranean,  France,  the  Baltic,  and  occasionally  beyond  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.     The  foreign  ships  which  usually  trade 
to  this  port  are  Norwegian,   Danish,  Hanseatic,  Hanoverian, 
Prussian.     On  an  average  of  years  there  have  been  92  vessels 
from  foreicrn  parts.    The  principal  articles  of  import  are  flax  and 
timber ;  of  export,  coals  and  linen  yarns.    Nearly  thirty  years  ago 
ve'^sels  began  to  sail  from  Kirkcaldy  to  the  whale-fishmg  in  Davis 
Straits.    For  a  number  of  years  this  trade  increased,  and  was 
very  profitable.  In  1828,  nine  vessels  belonging  to  this  port,  with 
a  tonnage  of  3008,  were  engaged  in  this  fishing.    A  few  prospe.^ 
rous  years  succeeded,  and  large  profits  were  realized.    In  18cJd, 
the  Kirkcaldy  ships  brought  home  900  tons  of  oil,  and  60  t^ns 
of  bone,  the  value  of  which  was  not  less  than  L.30,000.     I  he 
fishing  trade  has  declined  since  1835;  and,  but  for  the  partial 
success  of  last  year,  the  fishing  would  very  probably  have  been 
this  year  entirely  abandoned.  . 

Agricultural  Society. -The  only  association  m  the  parish  pro- 


KIRKCALDY. 


757 


fessedly  for  encouraging  or  improving  any  branch  of  industry,  is 
an  Agricultural  Society.  It  meets  twice  a  year  for  competition 
among  its  members  in  seeds,  crops,  and  stock ;  and  it  might  be  very 
advantageous  to  farming  interests,  if  the  proprietors  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood  were  more  generally  to  give  its  meetings  the  support  and 
countenance,  by  premiums  and  attendance,  which  they  justly  deserve.. 

v.— Parochial  Economy. 
MarAeifs.— Kirkcaldy  is  the  market-town,  not  of  the  parish  only, 
but  of  an  extensive  district.    Retail  dealers  in  the  surrounding- 
towns  and  villages  are  supplied  with  goods  by  Kirkcaldy  merchants. 
This  creates  business  for  carriers,  who  frequent  the  town  chiefly 
on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  and  cause  considerable  bustle  on  the 
streets.    A  corn-market  is  held  on  Saturday.    It  was  at  one  time 
only  a  sample  market,  and  most  of  the  buyers  came  from  Leith. 
After  the  sales,  the  grain  was  shipped  at  the  ports  along  the  coast 
most  convenient  for  sellers.    The  town- council  erected  a  stock- 
market,  and  opened  it  for  business  in  1827.  Not  only  is  the  grain 
grown  in  the  neighbourhood  mostly  sold  in  this  market,  but  large 
quantities  are  brought  to  it  from  within  a  circuit  of  fourteen  or  sixteen 
miles.  The  attendance  of  merchants  belonging  to  the  burgh,  and 
buyers  from  other  places,  is  numerous;  and  prices  are  generally  a 
shade  higher  here  than  in  any  other  market  in  Fife.    The  market 
was  unpopular  at  first,  and  not  a  third  part  of  the  grain  raised 
in  the  district  was  brought  to  it  for  some  years  after  it  was  opened. 
When  the  fact  came  to  be  known  that  better  prices  were  obtained . 
when  grain  was  sold  in  stock  than  when  sold  by  sample,  the  pre- 
judices of  the  sellers  were  removed,  grain  was  brought  from  more 
distant  places,  and  the  quantity  offered  weekly  for  sale  increased, 
so  that  this  has  now  become  the  leading  corn  market  in  the  county. 
About  2.5,000  quarters  of  grain  are  annually  sold  in  the  Kirkcaldy 
stock  market;  and  10,000  quarters  more  are  annually  sold  in  the 
market  by  sample.    The  success  of  this  market  has  operated  fa- 
vourably on  other  branches  of  business,  by  augmenting  the  num- 
ber of  weekly  visitors,  and  adding  not  a  little  to  the  circulation  of 
money  in  the  town.    In  this  as  in  other  stock  markets,  all  sales  are 
for  ready  money,  and  the  effect  of  this  upon  the  retail  trade  in  the 
town  is  beneficial.    The  market-dues  are  l^d.  per  quarter,  and 
no  shore-dues  are  charged  on  market  grain,  if  it  be  shipped  within 
fourteen  days  after  it  is  sold. 

Few  places  in  Scotland  have  a  better  flesh  market.  Besides 
furnishing  the  town  and  neighbourhood  with  a  regular  supply  of 


758 


FIFESHIRE. 


superior  butcher- meal,  the  fleshers  have  been  in  the  practice  for 
some  years  of  sending  large  quantities  of  meat,  of  all  descriptions, 
to  the"  London  and  Glasgow  markets.  No  regular  fishers  are  re- 
sident here.  The  town  is  supplied  with  fish  from  Buckhaven  and 
other  villages  on  the  south  coast  of  Fife.  The  fish  is  commonly 
carried  by  land,  though  boats  occasionally  expose  fish  for  sale  on 
the  beach ;  but  the  vicinity  of  Edinburgh  has  a  tendency  to  keep 
up  the  price  of  this  article  of  food  in  Kirkcaldy. 

There  are  a  number  of  large  and  handsome  shops  in  the  town, 
in  some  of  which  there  is  carried  on  an  extensive  wholesale  and 
,  retail  trade.  In  this  respect  a  great  change  has  taken  place  within 
the  last  fifty  years.  It  was  not  uncommon  in  the  end  of  last  cen- 
tury for  grocers,  drapers,  and  other  merchants  from  Edinburgh 
and  Leith  to  make  regular  calls  on  families  here  for  orders,  and 
many  families  were  supplied  with  goods  in  this  way.  About  the 
same  time  oatmeal  was  regularly  imported  into  the  parish  for 
consumption  from  Mid- Lothian,  whereas  now  great  quantities  of 
grain  are  constantly  exported  for  the  Edinburgh  market. 

Burgh.— T\\Q  town-council  consists  of  21  members,  who  are 
elected  by  a  constituency  of  250,— the  number  of  parliamentary 
voters  within  the  ancient  royalty.  The  council  elect  from  their 
own  number  a  provost  and  admiral,  two  bailies,  a  dean  of  guild,  and 
a  treasurer,  on  whom  the  management  of  the  municipal  affairs  in  a 
great  measure  depend.  The  burghs  of  Kirkcaldy,  Dysart,  King- 
horn,  and  Burntisland  return  a  member  to  Parliament. 

The  town  has  no  police ;  but  the  magistrates,  the  convener  of 
the  incorporated  trades,  and  sixteen  inhabitants,  chosen  by  pro- 
prietors and  tenants,  being  possessors  of  heritable  subjects,  withm 
the  burgh,  of  the  yearly  rent  or  value  of  eight  pounds,  are  consti- 
tuted,  by  Act  of  Parliament,  a  board  of  trustees,  «  for  widenmg, 
pavincT,  liahting,  cleansing,  and  otherwise  improving  and  keepmg 
in  rep°air  the  streets,  lanes,  and  passages  of  the  said  royal  burgh,^' 
«  and  for  bringing  water  into  the  same:"  and  they  are  empowered 
to  levy  for  these  purposes  an  assessment,  not  exceeding  five  per 
cent,  on  the  rental.  This  assessment  realizes  at  present  upwards 
of  L  500,  and  enables  the  trustees  to  light  the  streets  with  gas,  to 
do  something  to  keep  them  clean,  and  to  supply  the  town  with 
water,  brought  from  a  distance,  and  carried  through  the  streets 

'"l^arLr— "  The  harbour  of  Kirkcaldy,  though  the  property 
of  the  town,  is  under  the  management  of  Parliamentary  Commis- 


KIRKCALDY. 


759 


sioners,  chosen  in  terms  of  a  statute  passed  in  1829.  The  commis- 
sioners are,  the  provost,  two  baihes,  dean  of  guild,  and  treasurer  of 
the  burgh,  and  the  convener  of  the  seven  incorporated  trades ;  three 
commissioners  chosen  by  the  Prime  Gilt  Society,  which  is  com- 
posed of  ship-owners  and  ship-masters  ;  three  chosen  by  the  mer- 
chant traffickers;  and  two  chosen  by  the  county  of  Fife."*  The 
revenue  of  the  harbour  belongs  to  the  town,  and  the  trustees  have 
no  funds,  except  such  sums  as  may  be  granted  to  them  by  the  town- 
council  for  the  use  of  the  harbour.  It  has  been  improved  and  ex- 
tended at  various  times ;  but,  being  accessible  by  heavily  laden  ves- 
sels only  at  spring-tides,  it  is  exceedingly  inconvenient  and  disad- 
vantageous for  merchants,  whose  profits  now  depend  so  much  on 
quickness  of  dispatch.  It  is  also  unsafe  and  incommodious  for 
vessels.  The  want  of  a  good  harbour  here  has  long  been  felt  and 
complained  of;  and  this  seems  to  have  an  adverse  influence  on 
the  increase  of  the  trade  of  the  town.  Attempts  are  now  making 
to  supply  this  want.  About  a  month  ago,  the  town-council  resolv- 
ed to  improve  the  harbour  by  extending  the  east  pier,  according 
to  a  plan  furnished  by  James  Leslie,  Esq.  civil-engineer,  Dundee. 
Contractors  have  been  advertised  for,  and  the  work  is  expected  to 
proceed  this  year.  It  will  cost  L.10,000.  This,  however,  is  only 
a  part  of  the  proposed  improvement  and  extension.  The  comple- 
tion of  the  plan  is  supposed  to  require  from  L.30,000  to  L.40,000  ; 
but  the  council  have  wisely  determined  to  proceed  according  to 
their  pecuniary  means,  and  not  all  at  once  to  overburden  the  town 
with  debt.  The  revenue  of  the  harbour  is  the  chief  income  of  the 
town ;  and  this  seems  to  impose  on  the  council  an  obligation  to 
provide  as  good  accommodation  as  possible  for  vessels  that  fre- 
quent the  harbour.  The  shore-dues  have  increased  very  rapidly 
of  late  years.  The  tacksman  of  the  shore-dues  complained  to  the 
council,  in  1744,  of  the  loss  he  was  sustaining  by  his  lease.  For 
the  ease  and  encouragement  of  the  tacksman,  "  the  council  doe 
agree  to  set  him  the  shoar-dues  for  this  current  year  at  four  pounds 
Sterling,  and  recommend  to  the  clerk  to  get  him  to  enact  there- 
fore with  a  sufficient  cautioner." 

In  1791  the  shore-dues  were  L.135 ;  in  1811,  a  little  above 
L.300  ;  in  1823,  let  at  L.625.  In  1825,  the  council  took  the 
collection  of  them  into  their  own  hands ;  and  in  1827  they  amounted 
to  L.1191  ;  and  in  1842,  including  the  commuted  anchorage  of 
steam-boats,  and  exclusive  of  the  charges  of  collecting,  they 
amounted  to  L.1716. 

Report  from  Commissioners  on  Municipal  Corporations  in  Scotland. 


76,0 


FIFES HI RE. 


Revenue.— The  funds  of  this  burgh  have  long  been  managed 
with  great  economy.   The  honour  of  correcting  abuses  in  this  de- 
partment of  the  town^ council's  administration  was  not  reserved  for 
the  operation  of  the  Municipal  Reform  Act.    The  debt  of  the 
town  is  now  nearly  liquidated,— a  state  of  affairs  found  in  few  Scot- 
tish burghs,  and  this  is  at  once  a  practical  testimony  of  the  judi- 
cious management  of  the  public  functionaries,  and  of  the  town's  pro- 
sperity. At  the  Revolution,  the  town  had  a  debt  of  60,000  merks, 
or  L.3333  Sterling.    It  seems  never  to  have  been  liquidated.  In 
1791,  it  was  L.2430;  in  1832,  L.7649.    At  the  balance  in  Oc- 
tober last,  it  was  only  L.775,  6s.  2d.   The  income  of  the  town,  in 
1788,  was  L.284,  lis.  lid.  *  The  revenue  last  year  was  L.2312, 
1  s.  6d.    The  town  has  no  landed  property.    The  commonties, 
consisting  of  487  acres,  at  one  time  belonged  to  the  town  ;  but 
these  lands  were  all  feued  out  in  J  723  and  1750.    Their  full 
value  at  the  time  seems  to  have  been  obtained  for  them  ;  and  the 
grassum  paid  for  them,  as  well  as  the  price  of  redeeming  the  feu- 
duty,  appears  to  have  been  laid  out  in  repairing  the  harbour,  for 
the  "  pier  met  with  a  disaster  be  and  through  the  late  violent 
storme,  that  it  is  dung  through  and  through."    This  was  one  of 
the  council's  reasons  for  disposing  of  their  lands,  and  the  invest- 
ment of  the  price  in  the  harbour  is  perhaps  better  for  the  town 
than  if  the  lands  had  still  been  retained.    The  revenue  of  the 
burffh  arises  from  shore-dues,  feu-duties,  petty  customs,  the  mar- 

ket-place,  warehouses,  &c. 

Means  of  Communication.-~The  town  has  a  post-office,  and  the 
letters  are  delivered  twice  a-day.  Daily  coaches  either  start,  from 
the  town,  or  pass  through  it,  to  Aberdeen,  Dundee,  Perth,  bt 
Andrews,  and  Glasgow.  A  steam-boat  constantly  plies  the  ferry 
between  Newhaven  and  Kirkcaldy.  During  the  summer,  it  makes 
eiaht  passages,  affording  four  opportunities  of  crossing  from  each 
side;  durino-  the  winter  months,  there  are  only  six  passages.  A 
railway  is,  at  present,  projected  from  Lochgelly  colliery  to  the 
town  and  l-.arbour  of  Kirkcaldy,  a  distance  of  eight  miles ;  and  no- 
tices have  been  served  of  application  being  to  be  made  to  the  farst 
session  of  Parliament  for  a  bill  giving  power  to  the  shareholders 
to  carrv  this  railway  through.  ,  ■     nx  ■ 

The  collector  of  excise  for  Fife  and  Kinross  has  his  office  in 
Kirkcaldy  The  revenue  realized  from  the  excise-duties  within 
the  bounds  of  this  collection  amounted  last  year  to  L.  167,420. 
In  1819,  it  was  L.95,700.    This  increase  is  chiefly  owing  to  the 

•  From  a  Return  to  the  House  of  Commons  in  1789. 


KIRKCALDY. 


761 


duty  on  spirits  sent  to  England  being  now  paid  in  Scotland, 
whereas,  prior  to  1826,  this  duty  was  paid  in  England.  The  in- 
crease would  have  been  L.  40,000  more,  had  not  the  duties  on 
beer,  candles,  tiles,  leather,  and  salt  been  repealed  since  1819. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  parish  church  stands  upon  the  rising 
ground  to  the  north  of  the  High  Street,  near  the  middle  of  the 
town, — a  convenient  situation  for  the  population.  It  was  erected 
in  1807.  It  is  large  and  handsome,  and  Gothic  in  its  style.  It 
is  oblong,  with  the  pulpit  at  the  end  of  it,  und  contains  1500  sit- 
tings. The  fitting  up  and  finish  of  its  interior  are  chaste,  without 
any  superfluity  of  ornament  ;  and  it  has  an  air  of  elegance  supe- 
rior to  what  is  commonly  met  with  in  churches  in  Scotland.  The 
building,  from  its  style  and  elevated  situation,  would  be  an  orna- 
ment to  the  town,  were  its  architectural  effect  not  destroyed  by 
part  of  an  old  tower  being  attached  to  the  west  end  of  it,  which  is 
not  only  in  itself  devoid  of  beauty,  but  is  destitute  of  historical  in- 
terest, and  even  of  the  common  attraction  of  a  ruin,  which,  in  the 
estimation  of  antiquarians,  might  have  justified  its  preservation,  to 
deface  an  elegant  building,  and  offend  the  eye  of  strangers.  It 
must  indicate  to  strangers  either  a  scarcity  of  money,  or  a  want  of 
taste  in  the  inhabitants.  Its  removal,  and  the  erection  of  a  tower 
or  spire,  which  would  form  a  prominent  and  commanding  object 
from  Leith  to  the  mouth  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  have  long  been 
projected  and  talked  of,  but  have  hitherto  been  prevented,  chiefly 
from  the  difficulty  of  raising  the  requisite  funds. 

The  age  of  the  old  church  was  unknown.  It  was  repaired  and 
enlarged  in  1643.  It  required  repairs  in  1806  that  would  have 
cost  L.700.  Instead  of  expending  such  a  sum  in  repairs,  the  he- 
ritors resolved  to  erect  a  new  church,  if  money  for  this  purpose 
could  he  raised.  The  novel  method  adopted  by  the  heritors  to 
free  themselves  from  the  expense  of  erecting  it,  has  done  much 
to  restrict  accommodation  for  the  parishioners  in  the  present 
church.  Instead  of  providing  funds  by  an  assessment,  as  law  di- 
rects, they  resolved  to  procure  plans,  and  to  ascertain,  before  pro- 
ceeding to  build,  what  sum  could  be  realized  by  the  sale  of  pews. 
After  the  plan  of  the  proposed  church  had  been  exhibited  for  the 
inspection  of  the  inhabitants,  a  committee  of  the  heritors,  appoint- 
ed for  the  purpose,  proceeded  to  sell  the  pews  by  public  roup.  In 
the  articles  and  conditions  of  sale,  the  following  clause  was  insert- 
ed :  "  in  case  a  sum  sufficient  for  finishing  the  church  shall  not 
be  received  from  the  sale  of  seats,  it  will  be  in  the  power  of  the 


762 


FIFESHIRE. 


heritors  to  adopt  such  other  method  in  building  the  church  as  they 
shall  be  advised,  and  in  that  case  the  sale  to  be  made  in  virtue  of 
these  articles  to  be  null  and  void."    The  sale  of  seats  realized 
L.3428,  and  the  estimate  for  executing  the  plan  was  L.2740.  It 
would  appear,  however,  that  by  extra  work,  changes  on  the  plan, 
law-expenses  in  settling  disputes  with  the  contractor,  and  addi- 
tional work  to  make  the  church  sufficient,  the  whole  of  the  money 
was  expended  ;  for  a  gallery  was  afterwards  sold  to  the  kirk-ses- 
sion for  L.'205,  Us.  and  a  small  assessment  additional  was  requir- 
ed to  settle  the  accounts.    No  detailed  account  of  these  money 
transactions  can  now  be  found  ;  and  it  is  commonly  said,  that  no 
such  account  was  ever  rendered  by  those  who  took  charge  of  the 
business. 

Hitherto  there  have  been  no  free  sittings  in  the  church.  The 
kirk-session  have  charge  of  the  communion  or  table- seats  con- 
taining 160  sittings,  and  a  gallery,  which  they  purchased  with 
poor's  money,  containing  200  sittings.     These  sittings  have 
hitherto  been  let,  and  the  rents  applied  in  maintaining  the 
poor.     As  this  exaction  in  parish  churches  has  been  found  to 
be  illegal,  it  will,  in  future,  be  discontinued,  and  these  sittings 
will  be  free.     All  the  rest  of  the  church  is  private  property, 
and  is  occupied  or  let  by  the  proprietors.    Great  inconvenience 
is  experienced  by  the  letting  of  sittings  being  in  the  hands  of  a 
great  numiber  of  proprietors.    It  is  difficult  for  those  who  want  ac- 
commodation to  find  out  where  sittings  may  be  got  ;  and  families 
coming  to  the  parish  often  find  it  exceedingly  difficult  to  get  them- 
selves accommodated,  not  so  much  because  there  is  no  room,  for 
the  church  is  not  filled,  (the  average  attendance  will  be  from  1200 
to  1300),  but  because  they  cannot  find  proprietors  willing  to  let 
their  seats.  Pews  of  eight  sittings  have  of  late  been  selling  for  from 
L.40  to  L.50.    This  is  a  virtual  exclusion  of  the  poor  from  the 
area  of  the  church,  in  which  these  pews  are  situated,  for  they  can- 
not acquire  such  pews ;  and  those,  whose  worldly  circumstances 
allow  them  to  advance  such  a  sum  for  church  accommodation  to 
"    their  families,  are  often  unwilling,  by  receiving  a  rent,  to  admit  to 
sit  beside  them  their  less  opulent  neighbours.  * 

•  An  accident,  attended  with  great  loss  of  life,  happened  in  this  church  in  1828. 
The  Rev  Edward  Irving  of  London  was  to  preach  on  the  evening  of  the  sacrament- 
al Sabbaih.  and  the  church  was  densely  crowded^bcfore  the  hour  when  worship  was 
to  commence.  Before  he  entered  the  pulpit,  the  gallery  upon  the  north  side  of  the 
church  o.ave  way.  in  a  moment  and  without  warning,  and  precipitated  not  ess  than 
250  indfviduals  upon  an  equal  number  in  the  area  below.  "  The  scene,"  says  an 
fe  witness,  -  thlt  immediately  ensued  baffles  all  descipt.on.  The  cloud  ol  dust 
thatlrose,  the  prayers  and  supplications  for  mercy,  the  howhngs,  the  groans  and  la- 


KlftKCAI.DY. 


763 


'  The  manse  was  built  in  1808,  and  is  in  good  repair;  but  the 
offices  are  in  a  ruinous  state.  About  six  acres  of  land  belong  to 
the  minister,  consisting  of  glebe-land,  and  land  enjoyed  from  a 
private  mortification,  in  very  nearly  equal  proportions.  Its  annual 
value  is  about  L.36. 

The  modified  stipend  is  19  chalders,  but  teinds  to  this  amount 
have  not  yet  been  found.  A  protracted  process  of  locahty  was 
carried  on,  which  was  terminated  in  1840;  and  there  is  a  defi- 
ciency of  L.48,  8s.  9d.  of  teind  to  make  up  the  stipend  modified. 
The  interest  of  the  money  spent  in  this  process  would  very  nearly 
have  paid  this  deficiency  to  the  minister  in  all  time  coming.  The 
expense  of  the  process  first  and  last  must  have  been  L.IOOO.  The 
present  stipend  is  paid  according  to  a  decreet  of  locality  obtained 
in  1737,  and  is  120  bolls,  2  firlots,  and  1^  hppies  barley;  79 
bolls,  3  firlots;  and  2^  lippies  oats  ;  and  L.13,  Is.  3/gd.  for  vicar- 
age and  communion  elements.  The  late  augmentation  is  1  firlot,  3 
peeks,  and  of  a  lippie  of  barley,  and  L.44,  Os.  9f  d.  in  money. 
The  decreet  of  1737,  which  is  still  the  rule  of  payment,  gives  the 
teind  of  fish  according  to  use  and  wont ;  but  nothing  is  realized 
from  this  item. 

The  ecclesiastical  state  of  this  parish  has  undergone  several 
important  changes.  From  an  early  date,  and  for  a  long  period, 
the  ministerial  charge  of  the  parish  was  collegiate.  The  Crown 
is  patron  of  the  first  charge,  and  the  town-council  were  patrons  of 
the  second.  Prior  to  1650,  one-half  of  the  second  minister's  sti- 
pend was  paid  by  the  town,  the  other  half  by  the  heritors.  This 
is  stated  in  the  beginning  of  the  oldest  volume  of  the  kirk-session 
records  :  "  Steipend  payed  to  the  second  minister  of  Kirkcaldie, 
viz.  800  raerks,  equalie  divyded  by  the  toune  and  parosch."  In 
1612,  the  town  agreed  to  be  assessed  for  their  proportion  of  the 
second  minister's  stipend.  The  same  day,  October  14,  1612, 
"  David  Huchone,  baillie,  declarit  to  the  haill  nybouris  of  the 
comunitie  thair  present,  that  Mr  Ihone  Gillespie,  minister,  was 

mentations  of  the  wounded,  the  frantic  and  terrific-like  appearance  of  those  emerg- 
ing from  the  broken  beams  and  rafters,  are  circumstances  not  easy  to  be  effaced  from 
the  minds  of  those  who  were  called  to  witness  them."  It  was  a  considerable  time, 
amid  the  panic  and  confusion  that  immediately  followed  the  dreadful  crash,  before 
the  amount  of  destruction  could  be  ascertained.  The  killed  and  wounded  were  as 
speedily  as  possible  extricated  from  the  ruins,  when  it  was  found  that  sixteen  females 
and  twelve  males  had  perished.  Few  were  killed  by  the  falling  of  the  gallery.  The 
greater  part  of  the  twenty-eight  were  either  sulTocated  by  the  pressure  of  the  crowd 
striving  to  get  out,  or  having  lost  their  balance,  fell  down,  and  were  trodden  to  death. 
A  lively  recollection  of  the  awful  scone  makes  many  nervous,  and  fills  them  witli 
alarm  when  there  is  an  appearance  of  the  church  being  crowded. 


764 


FIFESHIRE. 


proponit  to  the  towne  to  be  ane  secund  minister  to  thame ;  and 
thairfore  demandid  of  thame  giflF  they  wald  be  contentit  to  be  taxit 
of  thair  awn  gudwill  for  payment  of  the  said  Mr  Ihone  his  stipend 
for  the  townis  part,  or  uther  wayis  giff  they  wald  lose  the  benefit 
of  the  said  Mr  Ihone  his  doctreine  in  default  of  moyen  for  inter- 
tening  of  him  to  teach  and  instruct  thame  in  the  word  of  God. 
Qu'unto  they  maist  willinglie  agreit,  approving  and  allowing  the 
agrement  w^  the  said  Mr  Ihone  to  be  ane  gud  and  ane  godlie  wark, 
and  that  they  willinglie  agreit  to  be  stentit  to  that  effect."  After 
1650,  the  date  of  the  parish  of  Abbotshall  being  disjoined  from 
Kirkcaldy,  the  town  paid  the  whole  of  the  second  minister's  sti- 
pend.   No  hesitation  in  appointing,  and  no  doubts  of  the  town's 
liability  to  support  the  second  minister,  seem  to  have  arisen  till 
about  1740.    The  difficulty  of  continuing  to  maintain  this  living 
was  occasioned  by  a  considerable  portion  of  an  augmentation,  ob- 
tained by  the  first  minister  in  1737,  having  fallen  on  the  town  for 
the  lands  they  had  feued,  in  the  feuing  of  which  the  town  reserved 
for  itself  all  public  burdens,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  publishing  an- 
nually, that  the  town  had  once  been  possessed  of  considerable  pro- 
perty in  land.    The  town's  desire  to  reduce  the  ecclesiastical 
establishment  by  discontinuing  the  second  minister,  in  order  to 
relieve  the  funds  from  the  burden  of  his  stipend,  was  first  mani- 
fested in  1741.*    A  vacancy  was  prolonged  at  this  time  for  up- 
wards of  two  years.    On  various  grounds,  the  town  craved  delay 
from  the  presbytery,  always  professing  that  there  was  "  no  inten- 
tion to  sink  the  said  charge."    The  council  applied  to  the  Lord 
Advocate  of  the  day  for  an  opinion  as  to  their  liability  to  appoint 
and  maintain  a  second  minister.    After  reasoning  on  the  memo- 
rial, his  Lordship  concludes  thus  :  "  After  what  has  been  been 
said  I  must  be  of  opinion,  that  the  presbytery  has  a  power,  after 
the  lapse  of  the  patron's  time,  to  settle  a  minister,  and  that  he 
will  be  entitled  to  1000  merks  stipend,  that  has  uniformly  been 
paid  to  the  second  minister  for  so  long  a  time."    On  receiving 
this  opinion,  the  town-council  appointed  a  minister.  When  the  next 
vacancy  occurred  in  1759,  the  town  offered  to  pay  the  first  minister 
a  certain  portion  of  the  second  minister's  stipend  if  he  would  un- 
dertake to  discharge  the  whole  duties.    This  offer  was  accepted 
by  the  minister,  and  connived  at  by  the  presbytery,  and  thus  the 
council  accomplished,  by  an  unworthy  compromise,  what  they  had 
previously  found  they  could  not  accomplish  by  law.    This  agree- 

•  Town  and  Presbytery  records. 


4 


KIKKCALDY. 


765 


ment  was  not  disturbed  till  the  death  of  the  incumbent  in  1767. 
From  this  date,  the  town  has  retained  the  wbole  of  the  second 
minister's  stipend,  and  the  charge  has  remained  vacant.  Among 
the  evils  entailed  by  the  sale  of  the  town's  lands,  with  a  reservation 
of  all  the  public  burdens,  this  suppression  of  a  ministerial  charge, 
though  by  no  means  the  smallest,  is  seldom  heard  of.  The  pur- 
chasers have  gained  by  the  bargain,  the  town-council  have  gained, 
the  church  and  the  religious  interests  of  the  community  have 
chiefly  suffered. 

Application  was  made  to  the  presbytery  in  1649,  by  the  heri- 
tors of  this  parish,  requesting  inquiry  to  be  made  as  to  the  neces- 
sity for  erecting  another  church  in  the  parish  ;  the  heritors  expres- 
sing, at  the  same  time,  their  willingness  to  provide  a  church  and 
stipend  for  an  additional  minister,  should  the  Presbytery  think  this 
necessary.    Heritors  and  presbyteries  appear  to  have  understood 
in  these  days  the  principles  of  church  extension.    The  Presbytery 
recommended  to  the  Commissioners  of  the  Parliament  for  sur- 
renders and  tithes,  "  that,  besydes  the  church  wtin  the  burgh  of 
Kirkcaldie,  for  ye  present  usuallie  attendit  be  two  ministers,  a 
church  sould  be  erectit  in  ye  landward  for  a  distinct  congregation." 
The  proposed  disjunction  took  place  in  the  following  year,  and 
the  present  parish  of  Abbotshall,  which  contains  almost  the  whole 
of  the  landward  part  of  the  original  parish  of  Kirkcaldy,  was 
erected. 

The  Rev.  Robert  M'Indoe,  a  member  of  the  original  Burgher 
Associate  Synod,  who  had  a  congregation  in  this  parish,  lately  re- 
turned with  many  of  his  brethren  to  the  communion  of  the  Church 
of  Scotland.  A  new  church,  containing  840  sittings,  has  been 
erected  for  this  congregation,  which  cost  L.2000.  It  was  opened 
'  last  year.  It  is  situated  near  the  east  end  of  the  town,  is  called 
the  East  Port  Church,  and  has  the  eastern  part  of  the  burgh, 
containing  a  population  of  1977,  assigned  to  it  as  a  parish  quoad 
sacra.  The  stipend  is  derived  from  seat-rents  and  collections, 
and  varies  according  to  the  number  of  members.  The  minister 
has  no  bond  for  his  stipend. 

Besides  the  two  churches  in  connection  with  the  Establishment, 
there  are  four  places  of  worship  in  the  parish  belonging  to  different 
religious  denominations,  viz.  United  Secession,  Episcopalians,  In- 
dependents, and  Scottish  Baptists.  A  few  Bereans  and  old  In- 
dependents regularly  meet  for  worship,  but  neither  of  them  has  a 
church. 


766 


FIFESHIRE, 


Date  of  erection.      Cost.        Sittings.  Stipend. 
United  Secession  Church,  1822  L.  1700  750  L.  IGO 

Episcopalian,  .  1818  800  132        L.  37  to  L.  65 

Independent,       .  .       1803  650  480      L.  100  to  L.  112 

Scottish  Baptists,"       .  1822  700  350    services  of  pastors 

gratuitous. 

These  stipends  are  raised  from  collections  and  seat-rents. 
There  are  two  diets  for  public  worship  each  Sabbath  in  all  the 
churches ;  in  sonae  of  them  there  are  frequently  three.  These 
congregations  are  collected  from  a  number  of  parishes;  and,  on 
the  other  hand,  many  from  this  parish  attend  a  United  Secession 
congregation  in  Abbotshall,  and  a  congregation  of  Original  Se- 
ceders  in  Pathhead,  and  a  few  go  to  a  Relief  church  in  Dysart. 

Religious  ocieties.  —There  are  two  Bible  Societies  in  the  parish, 
a  Tract  Society,  a  Sabbath  Evening  School  Society,  and  a  Parochial 
Association  in  connection  with  the  General  Assembly's  Schemes. 
Some  of  the  congregations  have  missionary  associations  within 
themselves.  The  average  amount  annually  collected  for  purely 
religious  purposes  by  the  societies  within  the  parish  cannot  be  less 
than  L.150.  The  interest  of  L.400,  mortified  by  Robert  Philp, 
Esq.  for  the  circulation  of  the  scriptures,  is  annually  sent  to  the 
British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  agreeably  to  the  directions 
given  in  his  trust-deed. 

Education.— Theve  are  15  schools  in  the  parish,  attended  by 
773  scholars.  Eight  of  these,  with  206  scholars,  are  taught  by 
females ;  three  for  young  ladies,  who  are  instructed  in  French, 
music,  &c;  and  five  for  girls,  who  are  taught  needle-work,  as 
well  as  the  elementary  branches  of  English  reading,  writing,  and 
arithmetic ;  one  of  them  called  the  Ladies'  School,  because  it  is 
supported  and  superintended  by  a  committee  of  ladies,  is  partially 
maintained  by  subscriptions ;  and  another  is  supported  chiefly  by 
the  benevolence  of  one  family.  There  is  an  infant  school  includ- 
ed in  the  eight,  which  is  also  supported  by  subscriptions. 

The  heritors  have  never  been  burdened  with  the  maintenance 
of  a  parochial  school  in  this  parish.  The  town's  funds  bear  the  whole 
expense  of  the  burgh  school.  For  a  long  period  this  school  had 
two  teachers,  who  received  small  salaries,  and  were  quite  inde- 
pendent of  each  other ;  and  in  order  to  prevent  interference  or 
opposition,  they  were  restricted  by  the  council  to  teach  particular 
branches.  The  burgh  school  is  now  under  the  charge  of  Mr  John 
Lockhart,  as  rector,  with  one  assistant.    He  is  allowed  L.50  of 

•  Report  l,y  the  Commissioners  cf  Religious  Instruction  in  Scotland  in  1838. 

3 


KIRKCALDY. 


767 


salary,  without  a  house,  and  L.40  for  his  assistant.  There  are 
upwards  of  170  pupils  attending  the  school.  The  present  school- 
house  is  insufficient  for  the  accommodation  of  such  a  number ; 
but  measures  are  at  present  in  progress  for  erecting  new  and  more 
commodious  school-rooms  in  a  more  open  and  airy  situation  than 
that  of  the  present  school- house.  The  elementary  branches  are 
taught  in  all  the  schools,  and  in  three  of  them,  Greek,  Latin, 
French,  and  mathematics  are  taught.  In  the  burgh  school,  the 
fees  vary  from  3s.  to  10s.  per  quarter,  according  to  the  branches 
taught.  In  some  of  the  other  schools  the  fees  are  higher,  and  in 
some  a  shade  lower  than  the  rates  fixed  by  the  council  for  the 
burgh  teacher.  "  Scale  of  fees  in  the  burgh  school,  fixed  by  the 
magistrates :  English  alone,  3s.  per  quarter;  English  with  writing, 
4s.  6d. ;  English  grammar,  arithmetic,  and  writing,  5s.  6d.  ; 
arithmetic,  rudiments  of  Latin,  geography,  and  writing,  6s.  6d. ; 
writing  alone,  for  one  hour,  2s.  6d.  The  above  fees  include  pens, 
and  no  charge  is  to  be  made  for  coals  or  janitor." 

"  Any  branches  taught  besides  the  above,  to  be  by  special  agree- 
ment with  the  teacher ;  but  in  no  case  can  more  than  3s.  6d.  per 
quarter  be  charged,  in  addition  to  the  highest  rate  of  6s.  6d.  as 
above,  making  in  all  10s.  per  quarter." 

Robert  Philp,  Esq.  a  native  of  this  parish,  long  an  extensive 
manufacturer  in  the  town,  and  an  elder  in  the  Established  Church, 
who  died  in  1828,  left  the  munificent  bequest  of  L.74,000,  the 
interest  of  which  is  to  be  expended  in  educating  and  clothing  400 
children,  who  are  "  most  needy,"  in  this  district    Schools  have 
been  erected  and  teachers  appointed  under  this  trust  in  Kirkcaldy, 
Pathhead,  and  Abbotshall.   In  Pathhead,  150  children  are  taught 
and  clothed  ;  in  Kirkcaldy,  100  ;  in  Abbotshall,  100  ;  and  50  chil- 
dren are  sent  to  the  parish  school  of  Kinghorn  and  clothed  by  the 
trust.  Children  are  not  admissible  under  six  years  of  age,  and  they 
are  notallowed  to  remain  after  they  are  fifteen.  Well-behaved  scho- 
lars, on  leaving  school,  are  allowed  a  sum  "  to  enable  them  to 
begin  the  world."    At  present,  the  funds  allow  them  from  L.7  to 
L.IO,  according  to  their  merits.    The  management  of  the  fund  is 
committed  to  eighteen  trustees,  consisting  of  the  two  oldest  jus- 
tices of  the  peace  within  the  burgh,  the  minister  of  Kirkcaldy, 
three  ministers  of  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  to  be  elected,  four 
elders  from  the  kirk-session  of  Kirkcaldy,  also  to  be  elected,  and 
eight  of  the  burgh  trustees.   Some  of  the  details  of  managing  the 
schools  without  the  burgh  are  devolved  on  a  board  of  managers 


768 


FIFESHIRE. 


provided  for  in  the  trust-deed.  The  Kirkcaldy  school  is  entirely 
under  the  management  of  the  eighteen  trustees.  The  teacher's 
salary  in  Kirkcaldy  is  L.lOO,  and  a  schoolmistress  is  engaged  to 
teach  the  girls  to  sew,  at  a  yearly  salary  of  L.15.  The  branches 
taught  are,  English  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  music.  The 
testator  provides  for  a  Sabbath  school  being  taught  in  all  the  four 
districts,  and  allows  an  annual  sum  of  L,10  to  each  district  for 
this  purpose. 

The  sum  of  L.780  was  mortified  by  Mr  John  Thomson,  mer- 
chant in  Kirkcaldy,  who  died  in  1810,  the  half  of  the  interest  of 
which  is  to  be  expended  "  in  paying  school  wages,  and  providing 
school-books  for  poor  children  of  the  parish  of  Kirkcaldy." 
About  20  children  of  the  class  described  receive  education  from 
this  fund. 

Few  places  in  Scotland  enjoy  such  educational  advantages  as 
Kirkcaldy.  There  are  few,  if  any  in  the  parish,  above  twelve 
vears  of  age,  who  cannot  read ;  there  are  very  few  who  cannot 
write  a  little.  Nor  need  there  be  any.  With  such  faciUties  for 
obtaining  a  gratuitous  education,  the  neglect  of  it  in  the  poorest 
would  be  inexcusable.  It  may  be  inferred,  from  the  number  and 
urgency  of  applicants  for  the  benefit  of  the  trust-funds  of  Philp 
and  Thomson,  that  the  advantages  of  education  are  generally  ap- 
preciated. 

Literature.— There  are  five  public  libraries  in  the  parish,  viz. 
Kirkcaldy  Subscription  Library,  with  4000  volumes ;  Kirkcaldy 
Mechanics'  Library,  1500;  United  Secession  Congregational 
Library,  340  ;  two  circulating  libraries,  2600. 

Scientific  Association.— k  scientific  association  was  formed  here 
a  few  years  ago,  which  provides  u  course  of  popular  scientific  lec- 
tures for  the  community  during  ihe  winter  season.  These  lec- 
tures have  frequently  excited  considerable  interest.  They  have 
been  generally  well  attended,  and  have  diffused  much  valuable 

information.  n      1 1 

There  is  a  public  reading-room  in  the  town,  and  a  small  weekly 

newspaper  is  published  on  Saturday. 

Charitable  Institutions.— About  thirty  years  ago,  a  few  friendly 
societies  were  formed  in  the  parish,  but  being  based  on  erroneous 
principles,  they  soon  began  to  decline,  and  they  have  all  been  long 

extinct.  r^-u  n  '> 

A  charitable  institution,  denommated  the  "  Prime  Gilt  box, 
which  provides  for  old  and  disabled  mariners  belonging  to  the 


KIRKCALDY. 


769 


port,  and  for  their  widows  and  orphans,  and  for  the  relief  of  ship- 
wrecked seamen,  has  existed  in  this  parish  from  a  period  prior  to 
1591.  Officers  and  men,  in  vessels  belonging  to  the  port,  long 
paid  a  per  rentage  of  their  wages  into  this  society.  These  con- 
tributions are  no  longer  paid.  A  proposal  was  made  a  few  years 
ago  to  dissolve  the  society,  and  divide  the  funds  among  the  exist- 
ing members.  This  was  prevented  by  interdict,  and  the  Court  of 
Session  ultimately  found,  that  the  society  cannot  be  dissolved,  and 
that  the  whole  property  of  the  society  is  held  in  trust  for  the  so- 
ciety called  the  "  Prime  Gilt  Box  of  Kirkcaldy."  The  value  of 
the  property  belonging  to  this  society,  the  income  of  which  will  in 
future  be  applied  in  relieving  poor  seamen,  their  widows,  and  or- 
phans, is  from  L.2000  to  L.3000. 

The  half  of  the  interest  of  L.780,  mortified  by  Mr  John  Thom- 
son, (the  other  half  being  for  educational  purposes),  is  applied 
"  towards  the  support  of  respectable  inhabitants  of  Kirkcaldy  who 
have  seen  better  days," 

Savings'  Bank. —  A  branch  of  the  National  Security  Savings' 
Bank  was  established  here  three  years  ago. 

The  following  statement  will  show  its  present  condition  ; 

263  depositors  of  sums  under  L.5,          .           .  L.375    5  11 

102                            above  L.5  and  under  L.  10,  .     698    8  10 

114                                    10        ...        20,  .    1568    9  11 

97                                    20        ...        50,  .   2842  19  2 

25                                    50        ...       100,  .   J592  18  0 

2                                  100        ...       150,  .     244  14  8 


603  L.7322  17  6 

6  charitable  societies,  ,  ,  .  53  15  7 

5  friendly  do.  .  ,  ,  .    433    6  8 


L.7809  19  9 


Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — No  legal  assessment  has  yet  been 
imposed  in  this  parish.  The  poor  are  maintained  from  the  collec- 
tions at  the  church  door  and  subscriptions  among  the  inhabitants. 
The  amount  of  annual  church  collections  is  about  L.200  ;  L.33 
have  hitherto  been  got  from  seat-rents  ;  and  the  additional  sum 
required  has  been  furnished  by  subscription.  A  sum  upwards  of 
L.  400  is  annually  required  to  maintain  the  poor.  The  average 
number  of  paupers  on  the  roll  for  a  few  years  past  is  1 10. 

Besides  the  provision  made  for  paupers  by  the  kirk-session, 
much  is  done  in  the  town  for  the  relief  of  the  destitute,  by  a  La- 
dies' Benevolent  Society,  a  Clothing  Society,  and  a  fund  annual- 
ly raised  to  supply  the  poor  with  coals.    In  very  few  parishes  are 

FIFE.  ;}  c 


770 


PIFESHIRE. 


the  poor  more  liberally  provided  for,  and  are  the  wants  of  the 
destitute  more  promptly  attended  to  and  relieved  ? 

Prison. — The  Kirkcaldy  jail  is  the  best  in  the  county  of  Fife. 
Under  the  New  Prison  Act,  its  management  has  been  much  im- 
proved. The  prisoners  are  constantly  employed,  and  great  care 
is  taken  that  proper  attention  be  paid  to  their  health,  their  diet, 
their  education,  and  religious  instruction.  It  is  now  a  place  more 
for  the  reformation  than  the  punishment  of  prisoners. 

Inns  and  Ale-houses.— lu  the  parish  54  houses  are  licensed  to 
sell  ardent  spirits.  Vigorous  and  successful  efforts  have  been  made 
of  late  to  detect  the  irregularity  of  some  of  the  houses,  and  to 
bring  their  possessors  to  punishment ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that 
this  system  of  vigilant  superintendence  will  be  kept  up,  and  that 
it  will  succeed  in  checking  and  preventing  that  noise  and  rioting, 
especially  on  Saturday  nights  and  Sabbath  mornings,  of  which 
there  has  been  good  reason  to  complain. 

February  1843. 


PARISH  OF  DAIRSIE. 

PEESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ANGUS  MACGILLIVRAY,  MINISTER. 


I, — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Situation  and  Surface.— Tms  parish  is  of  an  irregular  form, 
extending  from  the  south-east  to  the  north-west,  two  Scots  miles, 
and  from  the  south-west  to  the  north-east,  nearly  as  much.  Its 
general  appearance  is  that  of  a  gently  rising  ground.  The  soil 
is  for  the  most  part  fertile,  and  in  many  places  rich  and  deep. 
The  air  is  generally  dry  and  healthy.  There  are  no  considerable 
rivers  in  this  district,  except  the  Eden,  which  forms  its  boundary 
to  the  south  and  south-east. 

Craigfoodie  Hill  is  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the  parish,  and 
may  be  about  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  pre- 
sents  a  fine  precipitous  mural  and  somewhat  columnar  front  to 
the  south-west.  Another  height  towards  the  west  is  Foodie  Hill, 
planted  on  which  a  whinstone  quarry  has  been  opened.  The  lower 
parts  of  the  parish,  near  the  river  Eden,  exhibit  freestone  in 
abundance. 


DAIRSIE, 


771- 


Rivers. — The  river  Eden  abounds  in  salmon  and  trout,  and  the 
"  Dairsie  streams"  are  well  known  to  the  lovers  of  ancrlincr. 

The  only  other  river  except  the  Eden  is  the  Middlefoodie  Burn, 
in  which  there  are  some  trout.  It  intersects  the  parish  towards 
the  north,  and  runs  eastward  till,  joining  the  Mottray,  both  of  these 
streams  run  into  the  Frith  of  Eden,  near  the  Inner  Bridge,  about 
two  miles  from  the  German  Ocean. 

II. —  Civil  History. 
Parochial  Registers. — These  are  of  baptisms,  commencing  Fe- 
bruary 27,  1705;  marriages,  October  1,  1783;  burials,  October 
1,  1783, 

Land-owners. — The  names  of  the  land-owners  and  their  proper- 
ties are  as  follows :  Chapelwell  and  Dairsie,  Judge  Erskine ;  New 
Mill,  Mrs  Bayne ;  Todhall  and  Middle  Foodie,  the  Trustees  of 
James  Cheape,  Esq. ;  Fingask,  Heirs  of  the  late  Mr  Somerville, 
now  sold  to  Thomas  Whitson,  Esq.;  Wester  Craigfoodie,  William 
Fortune,  Esq. ;  Pitormie,  John  Meldrum,  Esq.  ;  Craigfoodie, 
David  Meldrum,  Esq.;  Foodie,  John  Small,  Esq. 

Mansion-houses. — These  are,  Craigfoodie,  Mr  Meldrum  ;  Pitor- 
mie, Mr  Meldrum  ;  Newmill,  Mrs  Bayne. 

Castle  of  Dairsie.  *— The  old  Castle  of  Dairsie,  now  in  ruins, 
although  still  in  wonderful  preservation,  is  situated  on  that  part  of 
the  estate  of  Dairsie  parish  known  by  the  name  of  Dairsie,  the 
property,  at  this  time,  of  Judge  Erskine,  by  his  marriage  with  Miss 
Traill,  the  daughter  of  the  former  proprietor.  It  is  built  upon  a 
rising  ground  near  the  banks  of  the  river  Eden,  which  stream  forms 
the  southern  boundary  of  that  beautiful  estate  for  about  one  mile 
and  a  half.  This  must  have  been  a  place  of  some  consequence  in 
early  times,  for  we  learn,  that,  in  the  minority  of  David  II.,  1335, 
the  then  Regents  of  Scotland,  Stewart  and  Moray,  held  a  Parlia- 
ment in  the  Castle  of  Dairsie,  probably  selected  as  a  place  of 
strength  and  retirement  in  these  troublesome  times.f 

The  estate  of  Dairsie,  like  most  others  in  the  country,  has 
had  many  owners.  On  28th  December  1520,  it  was  conveyed 
by  feu-charter  by  Andrew  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews  and  his 
chapter,  to  David  Learmonth  of  Clatta  and  his  son  James.  Con- 
tmumg  m  the  possession  of  the  family  of  the  Learmonths  till 
1616,  It  became  the  property  of  the  Spottiswoods,  the  unfor- 

thl  Sh.""'''^'^''         gentleman  connecled  with  one  of  the  principal  estates  in 
t  See  Note  to  Si  bbald's  History  of  Fife,  p.  400. 


772  FIFESHIRE. 

tunate  family  who  suffered  so  much  by  opposingf  the  Covenant- 
ers.   Dr  John  Spottiswood  of  Dairsie  was  Archbishop  of  St 
Andrews  and  Chancellor  of  Scotland  about  1590.    His  son,  Sir 
Robert,  recovered  many  records  and  documents  about  the  Scot- 
tish Church  from  abroad,  which  had  been  carried  away  by  the 
monks  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation.    He  was  beheaded  at  St 
Andrews,   1646,  by  decree  of  Parliament   assembled  there. 
Captain  John  Spottiswood,  younger  of  Dairsie,  was  put  to  death 
in  Edinburgh,  1650,  at  the  same  time  as  was  the  gallant  and  re- 
nowned James  Graham,  Marquis  of  Montrose,  and  many  others. 
In  1646,  Sir  John  Spottiswood  conveyed  Dairsie  to  Sir  G.  Mor- 
rison, Knight,  and  it  was  adjudged  by  his  creditors,  and  purchased 
by  Thomas  Earl  of  Kincardine  for  L.73,630,  3s.  4d.  Scots.  In 
1772,  it  was  again  sold  by  the  Earl  then  of  Elgm  and  Kmcar- 
dine,  to   General  Scott  of  Balcomy,  and  falling  to  h,s  eldest 
dauo-hter  Henrietta,  who  was  married  to  the  Duke  of  Portland, 
it  was  purchased  by  Mr  Barnes  of  London,  and  afterwards  became, 
disjoined,  in  consequence  of  speculating  purchasers,  until  it  re  - 
mains with  the  heritors  already  enumerated. 

On  the  estate  of  Dairsie  is  a  pleasant  small  residence,  called 
Dairsie  Cottage,  of  modern  date,  and  surrounded  with  wood.  It 
stands  to  the  west  of  the  castle,  overlooking  the  Eden.  A  num- 
ber of  years  since,  it  was  occupied  for  some  time  by  that  unfortu- 
nate nobleman,  Lord  William  Russell,  who  was  so  inhumanly 
murdered  in  London  lately  by  his  French  valet  Courvois.er. 
During  his  residence  there,  his  Lordship  was  much  admired  for 
his  unpretending  mode  of  life  and  kind  behaviour,  although  he 
lived  strictly  private,  and  was  held  in  high  esteem  m  the  ne.gh- 

^°Near the  old  castle,  the  grounds  of  which  the  present  proprie- 
tor keeps  in  great  order,  is  the  parish  church  bu.lt  by  the  Arch- 
bishop  Spottiswood  about  1615.  In  the  life  of  Spottiswood  pre- 
fixed to  his  History  of  the  Church,  it  is  said,  "  He,  the  Arch- 
bishop, built  upon  his  own  charges  the  church  of  Dairsie  after  the 
decent  English  form,  which,  if  the  boisterous  hand  of  a  mad  re- 
formation  had  not  disordered,  is  at  this  tune  (1678)  one  of  the 
beautifuUest  little  pieces  of  church  work  that  is  now  left  to  that 

now  unhappy  country."* 

The  above  is  far  from  an  overstretched  account  of  this  ed.tice, 
which  originally  had  a  flat  roof  with  lead,  and  most  grotesque 

♦  I-ife  of  Spottiswood. 
4 


DAIKSIE.  773 


shaped  windows  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  a  belfry  tower  near  it. 
Now  it  is  modernized  by  a  roof  of  the  modern  shape,  and  the 
steeple  pointed  as  others. 

In  the  records  of  the  synod  of  Fife,  lately  published  for  the 
Abbotsford  Club,  we  find  that,  in  1641,  a  report  anent  the  church 
of  Dairsie  was  presented,  when  it  appeared  that  the  brethren  and 
ruling  elders  had  been  appointed  to  visit  the  church  of  Dairsie, 
"  anent  superstitious  monuments  and  kirk  burial,"  who  found 
that,  "  at  the  entrie  of  sindrie  desks  upon  the  platform,  and  above 
the  great  west  door,  there  are  crosiar  staffes,  being  a  sign  of  the  de- 
gree of  the  last  prebend  and  bishops,  as  not  hierarchical  according 
to  the  manner  and  form  used  among  the  Roman  hierarchs,  and 
further  found  superstitious  "  a  glorious  partition  wall,  with  a 
degree  ascending  thereto."  All  these  were  denounced  by  the 
provincial  assembly,  and  the  minister,  and  elders,  and  heritors 
were  ordained  "  to  take  order  of  the  same,"  and  this  order  was 
several  times  renewed  in  after  meetings.  In  1645,  in  an  assem- 
bly held  at  Dunfermline,  an  order  was  made  about  "  the  levelling 
of  the  queer  in  Dairsie  Church." 

Within  these  few  years,  a  vault  was  discovered  in  the  east  end 
of  the  church,  near  the  pulpit,  and  found  to  contain  coffins  and 
bones,  being  used  as  a  place  of  interment.  It  is  understood  that 
this  practice  of  burying  in  the  inside  of  churches  is  in  future  to 
be  done  away  with,  as  prejudicial  to  the  health  of  the  sitters. 

III. — Population 


Population  in  1735, 

469 

1790-8,  . 

540 

180], 

550 

18)1, 

553 

1821, 

589 

1831, 

605 

1841, 

669 

The  number  of  illegitimate  births 
three  years,  5. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 


in  the  parish  within  the  last 


Number  of  acres  standard  imperial  measure  in  the  parish,  which  are  either 
cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  .  ,  2247 

Number  of  acres  which  never  have  been  cultivated,  and  which  remain 
constantly  waste  or  in  pasture,  .  . 

Number  of  acres  that  might,  with  a  profitable  application  of  capital, 
be  added  to  the  cultivated  land,  .  0 

Number  of  acres  in  a  state  of  undivided  common,  '  0 

Number  of  acres  under  wood,  whether  natural  or  planted,  ;  44 

Valuation  of  Dairsie  Parish,  1695.-^ 

?/'T-'„-     T,        •  •  L.1200  0  0 

Mr  William  Bethune's,  Craigfoodie,  .       520    0  0 


774 


FIFESHIRE. 


Cullarnies,  Craigfoudie,  .  •  L.  181  13  4 

sr;-'     .  •  0 

FiZTsl'  .  ■  352  13  4 

Si?'  :  •  583   0  0 

Rent  of  Land.— The  average  rent  of  land  per  acre,  L.2,  10s. 

per  Scotch  acre. , 

RentaL — The  real  rental  of  the  parish  is  about  L.4400. 

Manufactures— These  are,  manufacture  of  dowlases,  by  Mr 
John  Inglis,  employing  35  hands;  flax-spinning,  by  Mr  John  An- 
nan, 5200  spindles  annually  ;  flax-spinning,  by  Mr  Michael  Smith, 

•31,200  spindles  annually. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Filiates.— The  villages  in  this  parish  are  those  of  Middlefoodie 
and  Osnaburgh,  or  Dairsie  Moor.  The  former  consists  of  a 
few  straggling  houses  and  some  small  feus.  The  houses  are 
principally  oflittle  value,  most  of  them  being  occupied  by  the  la- 
bourers on  Todhall,  to  the  proprietor  of  which  (Mr  Cheape's  Trus- 
tees) most  of  them  belong.  The  village  of  Osnaburgh  is  be- 
coming more  populous,  and  is  a  thriving  village  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  church  to  the  northward,  and  is  intersected  by 
the  great  posting  road  from  Edinburgh  by  Cupar  to  Newport. 
The  turnpike  road  is  well  kept,  and  several  coaches  pass  daily 
through  this  village. 

Ecclesiastical  State.— The  number  of  Dissentmg  or  Secedmg 
families  in  the  parish  is  about  12  or  15.  Amount  of  stipend, 
wheat,  12  bolls;  meal,  60  bolls,  Specks;  barley,  98  boll^  3 
pecks;  oats,  48  bolls  ;  and  L.  55,  7s.  Id.  Sterling  money.  The 
glebe  is  about  six  acres  in  extent,— value,  L.2  an  acre.  There  is 
a  good  manse,  which  was  built  in  1825. 
List  of  Ministers  vf  Dairsie. — 
Mr  Peter  Ramsay,  admitted  1567. 

Mr  John  Williamson,  vicar,  admitted  November  24th  1577. 
Mr  James  Yuille,  1590,  died  1610. 

Mr  John  Rutherford,  admitted  February  1611,  translated  to 

Monifieth  1626.  ,     ,      t      u  ,«Ar; 

Mr  Patrick  Scougal,  1636,  translated  to  Leuchars  1645. 

Mr  David  Rait,  translated  from  Newburgh  1645,  conformed 
to  Episcopacy  1662,  translated  to  Kinnaird  1664. 

Mr  George  Paterson,  admitted  1665,  outed  1689. 

Vacant  from  1689  to  1696. 

Mr  Andrew  Geddie,  March  3,  1696. 


STUATHMIG.LO.  77^ 


Vacant  October  1703. 

Robert  Macculloch,  D.  D. ;  Mr  John  Macarthur.    Mr  Angus 
Macgillivray,  present  incumbent.* 

Education. —  The  number  of  schools  in  the  parish,  exclusive  of 
Sabbath  schools,  three.  The  yearly  amount  of  parochial  school- 
master's salary,  L.  34,  4s.  4^(1.,  with  house  and  garden.  The 
probable  yearly  amount  of  fees  actually  paid  to  parochial  school' 
master,  L.25. 

Poor. — Average  number  of  persons  receiving  parochial  aid,  12. 
Average  sum  allotted  to  each  of  such  persons  per  week.  Is.  Ave- 
rage annual  amount  of  contributions  for  relief  of  the  poor  :  from 
church  collections,  L.18;  from  alms,  legacies,  &c.  L.17. 

February  1843. 


PARISH  OF  STRATHMIGLO. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  MIDDLETON,  MINISTER. 


I- — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Boundaries,  Name. — This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Abernethy  and  Arngask;  on  the  west,  by  Orwelland  Portmoak'; 
on  the  south,  by  Falkland  and  Portmoak  ;  and  on  the  east,  by 
Auchtermuchty.  The  name  is  obviously  derived  from  the  Miglo, 
a  small  stream  which  flows  eastward  through  the  strath,  and  is 
aftervyards  designated  the  Eden.  In  form,  the  parish  resembles  a 
very  irregular  oblong,  extending  in  length  seven  miles,  and  varying 
from  two  to  four  miles  in  breadth. 

Topographical  Appearances.— The  greater  part  of  the  surface 
consists  of  two  gentle  acclivities  rising  on  either  side  of  the 
stream  which  divides  the  parish.  On  the  south,  and  forming  a 
striking  natural  limit  to  the  parish,  rises  the  West  Lomond  hill, 
whose  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  has  been  computed  at 
1700  feet,  and  which,  diversified  by  bold  mural  cliffs,  thriving 
woods,  and  rich  sward,  constitutes  a  very  picturesque  object.  On 
the  north,  it  terminates  in  a  succession  of  inconsiderable  eminences, 
which  may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  the  Ochil  range. 

*  See  Appendix  to  Records  oi  Synod  of  Fife,  printed  for  Abbotsford  Club. 


776 


FIFESHIRE. 


Soil. — The  soil  on  the  south  is  light,  and  rests  on  red  sandstone  ; 
it  is  not  remarkable  for  fertility,  though  in  some  farms  good  bar- 
ley is  raised.  On  the  north  of  the  Miglo,  the  soil  rests  on  a  whin- 
stone  bed,  and  consists  of  a  rich  friable  loam,  which  yields  abun- 
dant crops.    There  is  thus  no  want  of  good  materials,  both  free- 
stone and  whin,  adapted  for  building  and  enclosures.    From  the 
side  of  the  Lomond  hill,  white  freestone  has  also  been  quarried, 
which  is  said  to  be  durable  and  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish.    It  is 
surprising  that  the  latter  has  been  so  little  used  instead  of  the 
dingy  brick-red,  which  offends  the  eye  in  most  of  the  mansions  in 
the  neighbourhood. 

II. — Civil,  History. 
At  a  remote  period,  the  lands  of  Strathmiglo  appear  to  have 
belonged  to  the  Crown,  whence  they  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
Scotts  of  Balwearie,  an  ancient  and  powerful  family.    In  the  be- 
ginning of  the  sixteenth  century,  a  royal  charter  was  granted,  con- 
stituting these  lands  into  a  barony,  with  power  to  form  the  feuars 
into  a  burgh  of  barony,  and  vesting  the  nomination  of  its  magis- 
trates in  the  superior.  The  superiority  afterwards  was  obtained  by 
the  family  of  Balfour  of  Burleigh,  noted  in  Scottish  history,  whose 
arms  are  carved  on  the  front  of  the  town-house.    After  the  Re- 
bellion in  1745  was  quelled,  hereditary  jurisdictions,  the  barbaric 
remnant  of  feudalism,  were  annulled  ;  and  Strathmiglo  was,  in  con- 
sequence, deprived  of  the  usual  baronial  privileges.    The  feuars, 
however,  still  retain  the  management  of  some  property  pertaining 
to  the  original  burgh,  and  use  it  in  a  very  creditable  and  beneficial 
manner. 

The  ecclesiastical  history  of  this  parish  is  not  destitute  of  inte- 
rest.   The  church  was  originally  collegiate,  and  connected  with 
the  bishopric  of  Dunkeld.  When  the  Papal  hierarchy  was  assail- 
ed and  overturned,  this,  in  common  with  many  other  districts  in 
Fife,  took  a  lively  interest  in  the  Reformed  religion,  and  steadily 
adhered  to  the  Presbyterian  worship  and  government  through  its 
checquered  and  eventful  history.  A  sequestered  spot,  called  Glen- 
vale,  is  still  pointed  out  as  a  place  of  resort  in  troubled  limes. 
In  point  of  romantic  scenery,  it  may  bear  comparison  with  the 
wild  recess  in  Cartland  Crags,  where  the  Covenanters  of  the 
west  met  for  the  same  purpose.     When  the  secession  took 
place  early  in  last  century,  we  find  a  notarial  protest  taken 
by  the  kirk-session  of  this  parish  against  the  Seceders  ordain- 
ina  elders  here,  charging  them  with  "  intrusion,"  and  threaten- 


STRATHMIGLO. 


777 


ing  prosecution.  This  singular  paper  may  be  found  (p.  194) 
in  Swan's  Views  arid  History  of  Fife.  The  following  is  a  list  of 
the  ministers  of  this  parish  from  an  early  period  : — 

1.  Mr  George  Leslie,  .1360  ;  admitted  vicar  of  Auchtermuchty, 
1575.  2.  Mr  William  Braidfut,  1360.  3.  Mr  John  Balfour, 
reader,  with  L.20  Scots  of  stipend.  4.  Mr  Alexander  Muir,  mi- 
nister, 1574,  with  L.106,  13s.  4d.  Scots  of  stipend.  5.  Robert 
Scott,  reader.  6.  Mr  James  Balcanquel,  1389.  7.  John  Mon- 
criefF,  1633.  8.  John  Murray,  conformed  to  Presbytery  in  1638. 
9.  John  Rigg,  admitted  1655,  and  afterwards  conformed  to  Epis- 
copacy. 10.  David  Barclay,  outed  in  1689.  11.  Alexander 
Auchmoutie,  1690.  12.  Thomas  Black,  1695.  13.  Mr  George 
Gillespie,  1699,  grandson  of  the  famous  George  Gillespie,  mem- 
ber of  the  Westminster  Assembly.  14.  George  Lyon,  1754, 
grandson  of  the  above  Mr  Gillespie.  15.  Mr  John  Martin.  16. 
George  Bennet.    17.  George  Middleton,  1836. 

Antiquities. — Within  a  recent  period,  the  west  portion  of  this 
parish  is  said  to  have  contained  numerous  cairns,  imagined  to  be 
relics  of  Druidical  superstition.  On  and  around  the  West  Lo- 
mond, may  be  found  abundance  of  rocky  fragments  of  fantas- 
tic shape  and  position ;  but  whether  so  moulded  and  piled  by 
nature  or  by  the  "  Druid  hoary,"  we  pretend  not  to  determine. 
"Within  the  memory  of  the  present  generation,  there  also  existed 
several  barrows  and  tumuli,  with  human  bones,  ashes,  and  warlike 
instruments.  The  consequence  has  been,  that  Strathmiglo  has  now 
lodged  its  claim  among  the  parishes  which  compete  for  the  honour 
of  containing  the  site  of  the  celebrated  battle  of  Mons  Grampius, 
described  by  Tacitus,  in  which  the  warlike  but  undisciplined  Cale- 
donians under  Galgacus  were  defeated  by  the  legions  of  Agricola. 

III. — Population. 
The  following  is  a  table  of  the  population,  as  taken  at  different 
intervals : 

In  1755,  it  amounted  to  1095 
1690,  :  .  980 

1801,     -  .  1629 

1811,  -  1697 
1821,  -  -  1842 
1831,  -  1940 
1841,     -         -  2187 

Analysis  of  census  1841. 

Total  population,                 -          .  2187 

Males,                   .          .          .  1009 

Females,         -          -          .          .  1178 

Families,  total  number  of,              .  517 

Number  of  persons  under  15  years,  776 

betwixt  15  and  30  years,  604 


778 


FIFESHUiE. 


Number  of  persons  betwixt  30  and  50,       -  463 

30  and  70,       -  263 
upwards  of  70,        -  61 

The  lands  of  this  parish  are  divided  among  twenty-three  pro- 
prietors, of  whom  eighteen  possess  property  of  the  yearly  value  of 
L.  50  and  upwards.  Eight  of  the  heritors  are  non-resident.  Six 
individuals  in  the  parish  are  fatuous;  one  is  blind  from  the  effects 
of  an  accident ;  and  one  is  deaf  and  dumb.  There  is  no  peculia- 
rity in  the  general  customs  or  character  of  the  people  deserving 
of  special  notice. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — This  parish  gives  employment  to  186  males  as  far- 
mers and  farm-servants.  Its  surface  may  amount  to  about  oOOO  acres; 
of  which  nearly  600  are  entirely  adapted  for  pasturage,  and  350  are 
planted.  The  remainder  is  under  regular  cultivation.  Upon  minute 
inquiry,  the  gross  rental  of  the  parish  at  present  is  fully  L.9000. 
According  to  the  diversity  of  soil  and  situation,  the  annual  rent 
per  acre  varies  from  15s.  to  L.4.  The  most  extensive  land-owner 
is  P.  G.  Skene,  Esq.  of  Hallyards  and  Pitlour.  The  leases  ex- 
tend, with  some  trifling  exceptions,  to  nineteen  years,  the  rent 
being  generally  payable,  partly  in  money  and  partly  in  grain,  ac- 
cordfng  to  the  fiars  prices.  The  tenantry  may  justly  be  charac- 
terized as  an  intelligent  and  enterprizing  body  of  men,  under  whom 
husbandry  has  reached  a  very  advanced  stage  of  improvement. 
In  the  more  fertile  farms,  a  rotation  of  four  years  is  adopted,  its 
tendency  to  exhaust  the  soil  being  counteracted  by  the  liberal  ap- 
plication of  manure,  partly  produced  on  the  farm  and  partly  pro- 
cured,  at  a  considerable  expense,  from  the  adjacent  villages.  In 
the  less  fertile  soils,  the  fields  are  usually  allowed  to  remain  three 
years  in  grass,  making  a  rotation  of  six  years.  Nearly  the  whole 
parish  is  divided  by  substantial  enclosures.  In  several  of  the 
thrashing-machines,  water-power  is  employed;  and  the  farm- 
steadings  are  in  general  commodious  and  in  good  repair.  There 
is  one  flour-mill,  recently  improved  and  enlarged,  and  four  for 
other  descriptions  of  grain. 

Manufactures.— T\ie  staple  employment  of  the  great  body  of 
the  parishioners  of  both  sexes  in  the  village  is  the  manufacture  of 
linens.  These  are  wrought  up  in  great  variety,  such  as  diapers, 
damask,  dowlas,  linen  checks,  and  table-linens.  In  this  depart- 
ment of  industry,  from  500  to  600  persons  are  engaged.  For- 
merly, the  hand-loom  weavers  were  employed  by  the  extensive 
manufacturers  of  Dunfermline,  Dundee,  and  Kirkcaldy,  by  means 


« 


STKATHMIGLO.  779 

of  intermediate  agents ;  but  of  late,  almost  the  whole  trade  has 
been  carried  on  by  resident  manufacturers,  transacting  business  on 
their  own  account.  There  are  also  in  the  parish  a  bleachfield  and 
a  spinning-mill,  both  of  which  are  upon  a  small  scale.  Those 
employed  in  weaving  are  of  course  paid  by  the  piece,  and  work 
from  ten  to  fourteen  hours  per  day.  From  the  fluctuations  in 
trade,  the  rate  of  remuneration  is  necessarily  very  variable.  A 
few  vears  ago,  it  was  double  and  even  treble  its  present  amount. 
But  although  this,  in  common  with  other  manufacturing  districts, 
has  severely  felt  the  late  depression  of  trade,  very  few  have  here 
been  destitute  of  employment  for  any  great  length  of  time ;  and, 
small  as  the  wages  have  been,  and  still  are,  it  has  not  been  found 
necessary,  as  in  many  other  localities  under  similar  circumstances, 
to  have  recourse  to  extraordinary  measures,  to  meet  the  pressing 
wants  of  the  population. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Town. —  There  is  no  market  in  this  parish;  but  in  the 
adjacent  towns  of  Auchtermuchty,  Milnathort,  Newburgh,  and 
Cupar,  at  distances  varying  from  two  to  eleven  miles,  regular 
weekly  markets  are  held.  Auchtermuchty  is  the  nearest.  In 
Newburgh,  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles,  a  ready  market  is  af- 
forded for  potatoes,  cattle,  swine,  &c.,  which  are  shipped  thence 
for  the  London  market.  The  population  in  the  village  of  Strath- 
miglo  and  its  outskirts  amounts  to  nearly  1400.  The  only  other 
village  is  Edenshead  or  Gateside. 

Means  of  Communication. — These  are  in  general  good.  The 
parish  may  contain  eight  miles  of  turnpike,  and  five  of  statute  la- 
bour roads,  all  kept  in  excellent  order.  Here,  as  throughout  the 
country  at  large,  improvement  is  in  nothing  so  evident  as  in  the 
highways.  The  post-office  here  is  an  appendage  to  that  of  Kin- 
ross.   No  public  carriages  pass  at  present  through  Strathmiglo. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  situated  near  the 
east  extremity  of  the  parish  ;  but,  being  in  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage, containing  the  mass  of  the  population,  no  fault  can  be  found 
with  its  site.  It  was  built  about  fifty-eight  years  ago,  and  is  in 
tolerable  repair  ;  but  it  is  a  paltry  structure,  and  ill  seated  within. 
It  is  also  rather  small,  containing  accommodation  for  750  persons. 
There  are  no  free  sittings,  the  whole  area  being  divided  among 
the  heritors.  The  price  charged  for  a  sitting,  however,  is  small, 
being  from  Is.  to  2s.  6d.  annually.  The  manse  is  sixty  years 
old,  and  from  its  situation  was  rather  damp  and  confined.  About 


780 


FIFESHIRE. 


five  years  ago,  it  underwent  a  thorough  repair,  and  was  much 
enlarged,  and  made  altogether  commodious  and  comfortable. 
The  glebe  extends  to  four  acres.    Its  annual  value  may  be  L.l  2. 
By  a  recent  decision  of  the  Court  of  Teinds,  the  stipend  was 
fixed  at  17  chalders,  half  meal  and  half  barley,  with  L.IO  for 
communion  elements.     There  is  another  place  of  worship  in 
Strathmiglo,  connected  with  the  Reformed  Presbyterian  Church, 
stated  to  have  a  congregation  of  about  200  from  this  and  other 
parishes.    The  number  of  communicants  may  be  140,  of  whom 
90  belone  to  Strathmiglo.    At  Edenshead,  there  is  another  place 
of  worship,  belonging  to  the  United  Associate  Synod,  the  con- 
gregation of  which  has  been  computed  at  300,  of  whom  200  may 
be  communicants.    Divine  service  is  well  attended  at  all  these 
places  of  worship.    Of  the  entire  parishioners,  upwards  of  1400 
may  be  in  connection  with  the  Established  Church,  and  the  ave- 
rage number  of  communicants  is  430.    A  Tract  Society  is  in 
operation,  which  distributes  monthly  a  religious  tract  gratuitously 
to  every  family  in  the  parish.    It  is  supported  by  occasional  col- 
lections and  contributions. 

Education,— There  are  five  seminaries,  viz.  the  parochial  school, 
a  female  school,  built  by  Mr  Skene  of  Pitlour,  who  allows  a  small 
salary  to  the  teacher,  and  three  subscription  schools.  These  are 
all  conveniently  situated.  The  parochial  school  was  greatly  en- 
larged by  the  heritors  a  few  years  ago,  and  may  comfortably  con- 
tain  150  pupils.  A  convenient  play-ground  was  recently  pur- 
chased by  subscription.  The  teacher's  dwelhng  is  also  commo- 
dious.   He  has  the  maximum  salary. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.— The  number  of  poor  on  the  re- 
gular roll  is  18  at  present,  who  receive  altogether  L.l,  12s.  per 
week,  the  lowest  allowance  being  Is.  and  the  highest  4s.  There 
are  also  two  lunatics  maintained  in  Perth  Asylum,  and  one  bhnd 
person  partly  supported  in  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind.    The  ex- 
pense of  the  three  amounts  to  about  L.50  per  annum.    For  the 
relief  of  the  poor,  upwards  of  L.20  is  annually  obtained  from  the 
stated  weekly  offerings  at  the  church  doors.    There  is  land  of 
the  yearly  value  of  L.l 9  devoted  to  the  same  object,  and  a  sum 
of  money  yielding  L.IO  of  interest.    The  parochial  minister  has 
also  the  management  of  a  small  property  worth  L.9  annually,  for 
behoof  of  indigent  persons  in  the  parish.    The  balance  is  made 
up  by  occasional  voluntary  assessments  among  the  heritors.  It 
may  be  proper  to  state  that  a  Friendly  Society  exists  here.    It  was 


AUCHTERMUCHTY. 


781 


formed  In  1806,  and  at  present  numbers  213  members.  The 
annual  payment  is  5s.  During  illness,  a  member  of  it  becomes 
entitled  to  3s.  6d.  per  week  for  the  first  nine  months,  after  which 
the  allowance  is  reduced  to  2s.  When  any  member  is  superan- 
nuated, he  has  a  permanent  weekly  allowance  of  1  s.  It  is  proper  to 
state,  that,  while  in  this  as  in  every  district  containing  a  considerable 
population,  there  are  some  individuals  hackneyed  in  mendicity,  there 
is  in  this  parish  a  prevailing  disposition  among  the  poor  to  refrain 
from  seeking  parochial  relief.  An  honourable,  though  laborious 
independence,  is  in  general  preferred  to  the  resources  of  charity. 

February  1843. 


PARISH  OF  AUCHTERMUCHTY.* 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ROBERT  JOHN  JOHNSTONE,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Boundaries,  Sfc. — This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  pa- 
rish of  Collessie  ;  on  the  south  by  Falkland  ;  on  the  west  by 
Strathmiglo ;  and  on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of  Abernethy, 
Newburgh,  and  Abdie.  It  extends  in  length  from  north-west  to 
south-west,  4  miles,  and  in  breadth  from  east  to  west,  nearly  2 
miles ;  but  at  the  north  and  south  extremities,  it  does  not  exceed 
1  mile  in  breadth.  The  burgh  and  town  of  Auchtermuchty,  which 
contains  a  population  of  2550  persons,  is  situated  about  a  mile  from 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  parish,  which  is  washed  by  the  river 
Eden,  and  is  distant  from  Kirkcaldy  fifteen  miles,  Cupar  nine  miles, 
Kinross  ten  miles,  Newburgh  five  miles,  and  from  Perth  fifteen 
miles.  The  line  of  road  from  Stirling  to  St  Andrews,  perhaps 
one  of  the  straightest  and  most  direct  in  Scotland,  passes  through 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  town ;  from  the  former  of  which 
places  it  is  thirty-three,  and  from  the  latter  twenty  miles.  The 
eastern  line  of  communication  between  Perth  and  Edinburgh,  via 
Newburgh  and  Kirkcaldy,  passes  also  through  the  town,  and  a  coach 
has  now  been  established  on  the  road  for  several  years. 

From  notes  furnished  by  Mr  Archibald  Dickson,  parochial  schoolmaster  of  Auch- 
termuchty. 


782  FIFESHIRE. 

The  county  of  Perth  extends  to  within  less  than  a  mile  of  the- 
town  of  Auchtermuchtyon  thenorth;and  theline  which separatesthe 
parish,  on  the  north-west,  from  that  of  Abernethy,  forms  also  the 
boundary  for  nearly  two  miles,  between  the  counties  of  Perth  and 
Fifeshire.  Almost  the  whole  rising  ground  in  the  parish  has  a 
southern  exposure,  with  an  inclination  towards  the  east,  while  the 
south-east  part  forms  a  section  of  an  extensive  plain  of  deep,  rich, 
alluvial  soil,  which  was  mostly  flooded  with  stagnant  water  during 
the  winter  season,  within  the  remembrance  of  many  of  the  mha. 
bitants,  but  is  now  thoroughly  dried,  and  comprehends  some  of 
the  most  valuable  land  in  Scotland,  renting  from  L.  4,  lOs.  to 
L.  5  the  imperial  acre. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Parochial  Registers.-  Tiie  oldest  record  of  this  parish  is  a  re- 
gister containing  the  minutes  of  kirk-session,  commencing  in  the 
year  1650,  and  also  a  separate  register  of  births  and  marriages 
from  the  same  period.    How  far  the  latter  contains  a  complete 
record  of  all  the  births  and  marriages  which  took  place  within  the 
parish  at  this  period,  it  is  impossible  to  say ;  but  it  is  probable 
that  these  were  much  more  accurately  recorded  at  this  early  pe- 
riod, than  they  are  now,  when  the  parish  was  less  a  prey  to  reli- 
gious divisions  and  animosities.    No  particular  register  appears 
to  have  been  kept  of  the  deaths  at  the  time,  and  the  number  is 
only  to  be  ascertained  from  the  notices  given  of  the  funds  arising 
from  the  use  of  the  mortcloth.    There  is,  however,  a  blank  in  the 
records  of  this  parish  not  easily  accounted  for,  from  1658  and 
1667,  till  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  when  they  ap- 
pear again  to  have  been  kept  with  considerable  regularity.  At 
present  the  records  of  this  parish,  and,  perhaps,  of  most  parishes 
in  Scotland,  are  far  from  being  complete.    The  register  of  mar- 
riages, amount  of  collections  at  the  church  doors,  and  minutes  of 
the  kirk-session,  are  kept  with  great  accuracy  ;  but  the  record  ot 
births  and  deaths  is  most  deficient.    Of  the  former  25,  and  of  tlie 
latter  only  8  were  recorded  for  the  year  1840,  while  50  aeaths, 
and  from  70  to  80  births  are  known  to  have  taken  place  in  the  pa- 
rish within  that  period.    This  strange  anomaly  may  be  accounted 
for  thus  •  Over  the  registration  of  the  former,  the  kirk-session  have 
a  complete  control,  over  the  latter,  as  the  law  now  stands,  they  have 
little  or  none;  and,  consequently,  by  far  the  most  important 
records  are  incomplete.      Few  or  none  of  the  Dissenters  m 
the  parish  register   their  children's  names,  and  in  a  pansU 


AUCHTERMUCHTY. 


7S3 


where,  at  least,  between  thirty  and  forty  children  must  be  born 
of  Dissenting  parents  yearly,  there  are  not  as  many  of  them  re- 
corded in  the  parochial  registers  for  the  last  twenty  years.  With 
regard  to  the  register  of  deaths,  it  may  be  observed  that,  for  many 
years,  a  very  faithful  record  was  kept,  while  the  kirk-session's 
mortcloth  was  used,  but  since  it  has  become  fashionable  to  use 
those  of  private  societies,  or,  what  is  now  much  more  common,  none 
at  all,  no  authentic  record  of  the  mortaUty  which  takes  place  with- 
in the  parish  is  kept. 

iMnd-owners. — The  principal  heritors  in  the  parish,  of  which 
there  are  65,  are,  Mr  Bruce  of  Falkland;  P.  G.  Skene  of  Hall- 
yards  ;  and  Andrew  Murray,  Esq.  sheriff-depute  of  Aberdeenshire. 
The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  5783,  9s.  lOd.  Scots  ;  the  real 
rent  is  L.5900  Sterling.  The  following  are  the  qualified  heritors 
of  the  parish,  with  their  respective  valuations  : 

O.  T.  Bruce,  Esq.  .      L.  2429  18  7 

P.  G.  Skene,  Esq.  .          J 1 12    0  0 

Andrew  Murray,  Esq.  .            504  16  9 

William  Johnstone,  Esq.  249  14  8 

Union  Bank  of  Dundee,  .       216  13  10 

Charles  Moyes,  Esq.  .           189    0  7 

John  Bonthron,  Esq.  .          194  13  10 

Mansion  Houses. — Myres  Castle  is  the  only  mansion  of  any  con- 
sideration in  the  parish.  It  was  long  the  residence  of  the  Mon- 
crieffs  of  Reedie,  the  ancestors  of  P.  G.  Skene,  Esq.  who  sold 
the  estate  of  Myres,  together  with  the  patronage  of  Auchter- 
muchty,  to  the  late  Mr  Bruce,  the  King's  printer  for  Scotland, 
about  twenty  years  ago.  Although  a  large  addition  was  made  to 
the  castle  about  fifteen  years  ago,  and  the  house  is  capable  of  ac- 
commodating a  large  family,  the  present  proprietor  has  never  taken 
up  his  residence  here.  The  pleasure-grounds  are  not  very  exten- 
sive, including  only  a  park  of  about  thirty  acres,  while  the  lands  on 
every  side  are  perhaps  too  valuable  for  agricultural  purposes  ever 
to  extend  it  beyond  the  present  boundary.  Bellevue,  the  property 
of  Mr  Marshall  Gardiner,  and  Southfield,  the  property  of  Messrs 
Moncrieff,  are  very  pleasing  places  of  residence. 

HI. — Population. 

Amount  of  population  in  1811,  .  2403 
1821,  2734 
1831,  .  3225 
1841,      .  3352 

In  1841,  the  town  and  burgh  of  Auchtermuchty  contained  a  popu- 
lation of  2550  ;  the  village  of  Dunshelt,  which  lies  about  a  mile  to 


784 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  south-east  on  the  road  to  Falkland  and  the  New  Inn,  601  ; 
and  the  landward  part  of  the  parish,  293. 

IV. — Industry. 

The  parish  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  the  number  of 
imperial  acres  cultivated  or  in  tillage  is  2600  nearly.  The  total 
extent  of  the  parish  is  2900  imperial  acres,  and  not  3000  Scots 
acres,  as  stated  in  the  Old  Account. 

It  does  not  appear  that  any  waste  lands  could  be  added  to  those 
under  tillage.  There  is  an  undivided  common  in  the  parish  of 
about  90  acres.  The  number  of  acres  under  wood  is  about  220, 
and  most  of  them  have  been  planted  within  the  last  fifty  years. 

Eent.— The  average  rent  of  land  in  this  parish  is  very  high,  and 
the  competition  for  it,  when  out  of  lease,  is  extremely  great ;  but 
the  following  statement,  mflde  from  minute  investigation  and  au- 
thentic sources,  will  best  exhibit  a  comparative  view  of  its  value  : 

There  are  WO  acres,  averaging  L.  4  per  acre,  I>.  1200 

600               .              3             .  1800 

1200              •             2            .  2400 

390              .             I            •  500 

2600  L.  5900 

The  real  rental  of  the  parish  is  L.  5900.    In  this  the  value  of 
plantations  and  undivided  common  is  not  included. 

Manufactures.— In  the  year  1817  a  blight  came  over  the  ma- 
nufacturing interest  in  this  parish,  which  it  has  never  recovered. 
Since  that  time,  trade,  instead  of  being  carried  on  by  resident 
manufacturers,  has  been  transacted  chiefly  through  the  medium 
of  agents  who  give  out  yarns  to  the  weavers  to  work  from  manufac- 
turers at  Glasgow,  Dundee,  Aberdeen,  &c.  The  manufactures 
consist  of  cotton  and  linen  goods,  or  checks,  and  drills,  as  they 
are  called,  and  green  linens.  It  is  generally  supposed  that  there 
are  about  700  weavers  in  the  parish,  of  which  one-third  are  females, 
whose  earnings  average  about  5s.  6d.  per  week. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Ecclesiastical  State.— The  number  of  families  in  the  parish  is 
nearly  750,  of  which  Dissenters  form,  as  near  as  can  be  ascertain- 
ed, the  one-half.  .         ,  n     r  i 
The  stipend  of  the  Established  clergyman  is  136  bolls  of  meal 
of  140  lb.  per  boll,  and  99  quarters  of  barley,  ^or  17  chalders  in 
^ofo,)  and  L.10  in  money.          .  t  npr 
The  glebe  measures  8^  acres  imperial,  and  is  worth  L.SO  per 
annum     The  manse  was  built  in  1793,  and  is  a  substantial  fabric. 
An  addition  was  made  to  it  about  seven  years  ago,  and  it  is  now 


AUCHTERMUCHTV.  785 


one  of  the  best  and  most  comfortable  manses  in  the  presbytery. 
The  church  was  built  in  1780,  but  in  18S8  the  patron  made  an  ad- 
dition at  his  own  individual  expense  (upwards  of  L.500)  by  which 
nearly  400  additional  sittings  were  added.  The  church  now  accom- 
modates 900  sitters.  It  is  well  attended  ;  the  number  of  commu- 
nicants is  nearly  600.  There  are  three  meeting-houses  in  the  pa- 
rish besides,  viz.  two  in  connection  with  the  United  Secession 
Church,  and  one  belonging  to  the  Relief.  They  may  accommo- 
date 1200  sitters,  and  are  all  well  attended. 

Education.--Theve  are  six  schools  in  the  parish,  of  which  five  are 
m  thetownof  Auchtermuchty  and  one  at  Dunshelt,  Threeof  them, 
besides  the  parochial  school,  are  partially  endowed  bv  public  subl 
scription  or  private  munificence.  The  parochial  schoolmaster's  sa- 
lary is  the  maximum;  the  school  fees  on  an  average  do  not  ex- 
ceed L.20  per  annum,  and  his  other  emoluments  as  session-clerk 
and  kirk  treasurer  are  about  L.12. 

Savings  Bank.— There  is  a  savings  bank  in  the  parish.  It  was 
estabhshed  upwards  of  twenty  years  ago,  and  has  been  eminently 
successful.  There  are  490  depositors,  and  the  sum  lying  at  in- 
terest  on  the  31st  of  December  1840,  was  L.  3028,  9s.  The 
benefit  of  the  bank  is  not  confined  to  persons  residing  in  the  pa- 
rish, but  IS  extended  to  the  surrounding  district ;  and,  accordingly 
a  majority  of  the  depositors  are  from  the  parishes  of  Strathmiglo, 
Falkland,  Collessie,  and  the  surrounding  country.  During  the 
year  1840  nearly  L.300  was  added  to  the  stock. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds.~The  number  of  persons  at  present 
upon  the  poor's  roll  is  62,  exclusive  of  occasional  poor,  as  also 
those  on  the  list  of  the  female  society.    The  expenditure  for  the 
year  ending  at  the  1st  of  April  1841  was  L.  293,  15s.  6d  The 
average  aid  given  to  each  is  about  6s.  per  month,  but  in  some 
cases  much  more-and  few  or  none  have  below  4s.  per  month  In 
most  cases,  a  house  rent  of  L.  1,  5s.  is  also  allowed,  and  in  few 
parishes  are  the  wants  of  the  poor  better  attended  to  than  here 
The  contributions  for  the  support  of  the  poor  in  this  parish  have 
hitherto  been  made  up  of  a  voluntary  assessment  upon  the  land- 
ward  heritors,  and  the  collections  at  the  church  doors,  which 
amount  to  about  L.  30  yearly ,  but  since  the  burden  of  support- 
ing  he  poor  has  become  so  heavy  of  late  years  upon  the  lalided 
heritors,  several  o   whom  have  refused  to  pay  their  share  of  the 
assessment  a  legal  assessment  was  imposed  in  September  last  upon 
all  heritable  property  in  the  parish. 
January  1843. 

FIFE. 

3  D 


PARISH  OF  MOONZIE. 

PRESBYTERY  OE  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ALEXANDER  KIDD,  D.  D.,  MINISTER. 


].__T0P0GRAPHY  AND  NATURAL  HlSTORY. 

Name.--^■v  a  very  early  period,  previous  to  the  year  1238,  he 
parish  was  called  Urhmmonesyn.     It  afterwards  assumed  the 
name  of  Auchtermonsey.    Moonz>e,  .ts  present  -^"'r^^uff  Z 
rally  supposed  to  be  a  Gaelic  word,  which  signifies  the  mi  of  the 

^7.tent,  cS-c-Moonzie  is  one  of  the  smallest  parishes  in  Scot- 
hnd  beL  not  quite  two  English  miles  in  length,  and  one  and  a- 
h  "if  mi    fn  breadth.    It  approaches  in  figure  to  a  paral  elogram 
and  iTbounded  on  the  east  by  the  parish  of  Cupar,  on  the  sou  h 
'Monimail,  on  the  west  by  Criech,  and  on       -th  ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
T  ikP  the  greater  part  of  the  north  side  of  tite,  it  presents 
meny     Like  the  grea  e  P  ^^^^^.^  ^^.^  ^^.^^al 

^  t.nt     Its  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  may  be  about  300 
The  0  ly  stream  worth  mentioning,  Moonzie  Burn  takes 
f  nr.  I  ordscairnie  Myre,  and  after  winding  its  way  through 
r:i  p:i^h'e:t:hTe:stw/rd,'fa.ls  mto  the  Eden,  near  the  Inner 

^t^th'e  farm  of  Lovdscairnie,  there  was  formerly  a  loch,  or  myre 

By  paring  ana  uuiiiii'o  r„(      fprtilitv  is  now 

o/oats  and  turnips  were  at  first  F--?^'  f  A  t  empt.as 
much  diminished,  and  its  produce  greatly  lessened.  An  a  v 

T  =pvpral  vears  ac^o  to  dry  the  moss  more  completely,  by  deep 
made  several  yeaibd  u        j  ^i-.^  mpk  at  the  point  where 

ening  the  formev  drams  and  ?  f  ?  °fy^^  ™„,S  rene»  the 

the  wate,-  flows  out,  and  ,t  was  -'PPO^*^^  '„r°,„wever,  been 
soil  and  render  it  more  productive.    It  has  only. 


MOONZIE. 


787 


partially  successful.  The  crops  are  still  scanty  and  uncertain,  and 
sonaetimes  hardly  defray  the  expense  of  cultivation.  When  em- 
ployed in  draining  the  loch,  the  labourers  found  many  large  oak. 
trees  deeply  imbedded  in  the  soil,  and  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion, and  some  are  still  discovered  when  they  are  ploughing  the 
ground,  and  digging  for  marl.  Many  deers'  heads,  with  splen- 
did branching  horns,  in  a  petrified  state,  were  also  dug  out  of  the 
moss,  and  were  eagerly  sought  after  by  the  lovers  of  natural  his- 
tory, to  adorn  their  museums.  Under  the  moss,  about  two  or  three 
feet  from  the  surface,  there  lies  a  bed  of  excellent  shell-marl.  It 
varies  in  thickness  in  different  places  from  one  to  three  feet.  It 
has  been  employed  with  great  success  in  fertilizing  the  soil  of  the 
adjacent  country.  Great  quantities  have  been  raised  at  diffei'ent 
periods,  and  employed  with  advantage,  as  an  ingredient  in  com- 
post dunghills,  and  as  a  top-dressing  for  pasture  ground,  and  in 
some  cases  it  has  been  applied  to  a  naked  fallow  like  lime. 

Geology* — The  parish  of  Moonzie  comprehends  the  summits 
and  slope  of  three  connected  elevations,  shutting  up  the  west  end 
of  a  valley  extending  east  about  two  miles,  by  about  a  mile  and  a- 
half  broad.  On  the  west  these  elevations  are  connected  by  a  neck 
of  high  land  with  the  declivity  of  Norman  Law,  and  consequenllv 
form  an  offset  from  the  line  of  high  lands  formed  by  the  Ocliil  and 
Campsie  hills.  Observations  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cupar,  near 
the  line  and  level  of  the  Eden's  bed,  as  well  as  those  made  near  the 
Tay  in  the  opposite  direction,  give  every  reason  to  believe  that 
the  trap  rocks,  of  which  alone  the  surface  of  the  parish  is  formed, 
rest  upon  that  series  tt)  which  the  name  of  red  sandstone  or  old 
red  sandstone  is  given,  forming  the  floor  of  all  the  Fife,  and  I  be- 
lieve, of  all  Scottish  coal  fields. 

"Whether  these  rocks  are  to  be  considered  as  contemporaneous 
with  the  red  sandstone  and  subordinate  to  it,  as  some  theorists  con- 
tend, or  as  having  been  forced  up  and  overflowing  these  rocks  at 
a  subsequent  period  by  the  action  of  internal  fire,  it  is  impossible, 
from  any  appearances  discovering  themselves  here,  to  conjecture. 
The  hills  are  generally  rounded,  and  covered  with  soil  to  the  sum- 
mits, and  the  trap  of  the  vicinity  only  shows  a  tendency  to  the  co- 
lumnarformin  the  rock  of  Craigfoodie  hill,  which  affords  a  pictu- 
resque termination  to  the  distant  view  down  the  valley  to  the  east- 
ward.   Beds  of  trap  tufa  and  boulders,  crumbling  down  in  layers 

•  For  the  few  remarks  on  the  geology  of  the  parish,  I  am  indebted  to  George  Go- 
van,  Esq. 


788  FIFESlIlKe. 


from  the  surfece,  contribute  much  to  enrich  the  soil,  which,  in 
many  places,  might  at  first  seem  sterile  from  its  proximity  to  the 

rock.  •  ,  •  •     .  11  f 

At  some  places,  amygdaloid  is  to  be  found  contammg  balls  ol 

agate  or  Scotch  pebble  in  concentric  layers. 

The  only  exception  to  the  rocky  material  constituting  the  sur- 
face of  the  parish  is  from  the  presence  of  those  masses,  often  many 
tons  in  weight,  rounded  and  water-worn,  of  which  I  noticed  one 
lately  on  the  side  of  the  road  near  CoUuthie.  The  parent  rock 
of  all  these,  which  is  numerous  on  many  other  moors  in  Fifeshire, 
I  need  hardly  observe,  is  far  to  the  north-west. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Sibbald,  in  his  History  of  Fife,  seems  to  be  of  opinion  that 
Moonzie  was  early  visited  with  the  light  of  the  Gospel.    He  re- 
lates that  St  Regulus,  in  the  fourth  century,  havmg  landed  at  St 
Andrews,  and  formed  a  Christian  establishment  there,  travelled 
through  the  country,  and  built  several  wooden  churches  in  differ- 
ent places,-one  of  them  at  Monechata  or  Monichi,  which  he 
thinks  was  the  parish  called  Moonzie.    Jameson,  in  his  History  ot 
the  Culdees,  asserts  that  Sibbald  is  mistaken  in  this  opinion,  and, 
from  the  similarity  of  the  names,  concludes  that  Monechata  or 
Monichi  must  be  understood  to  be  Monikie  in  Angus     But  when 
we  reflect  on  the  great  changes  which  the  names  of  places  under- 
go  in  the  course  of  time,  we  see  no  reason  in  this  case  to  consider 
Sibbald's  interpretation  either  incorrect  or  J^P^^^.^^^.J"  ^ 
•    given  by  Sibbald  of  the  churches  and  chapels  in  Fife  in  the 
reian  of  William  the  Lion,  "  Moonzey"  is  included. 

lancl.o^.ners.-T\.e  greater  part  of  the  P/-^.'/-^'^^^;;;^  ^ 
farms  of  Moonzie,  Lordscairnie,  Torr,  and  Br.dgend  belongs  to 
he  Earl  of  Glasgow,  who  succeeded  to  this  property  ately  on  the 
Lfo  Lady  M.  L  Craufurd.    The  estate  of  CoUuth.e  is  the 
Snfp   pe  ty  of  Messrs  John  and  Henry  Inglis.    The  estate  of 
CL  or  Lordscairnie  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Craufurd 
Sv  at  a  very  early  period.    Sir  David  Lindsay,  the  seventh  of 
r  amny  afte  theif  settlement  in  Scotland,  and  who  was  one  of 
Se  M  g  ates  Scoti.  who  signed  the  celebrated  etter  to  Pope 
Tohn  alerting  the  independence  of  Scotland  m  the  time  of  Ro- 
t  Bru^  is  the  firs!  of  the  family  who  possessed  the  property, 
bert  Bruce  wa  eo-heiresses  of  Sir  Alexander  de 

'/rTv  a^Hece  ved  along  with  her  the  estates  of  Ca.rn.e, 
Abei-nethy,  and  rece  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

•  Reg.  Mag.  Sig.  36. 


MOONZIE.- 


789 


acquired  this  estate  in  the  reign  of  James  IV.  in  consequence  of 
Alexander  Lindsay,  sixth  Earl  of  Craufurd,  marrying  Dumbar, 
heiress  of  Moonzie.    But  for  this  statement  he  produces  no  autho- 
rity, and  it  is  disproved  by  existing  records.   "  Sir  David  Lindsay 
gave,  on  the  19th  of  November  1355,  a  donation  of  six  pounds  of 
wax  yearly  out  of  his  lands  of  Cairnie,  to  the  abbot  and  convent 
of  Lindores,  for  finding  a  burning  taper  every  day  that  mass  is  ce- 
lebrated in  the  choir  of  their  church,  at  his  sepulchre,  which  was 
confirmed  by  charter  granted  by  David  IL  on  3d  August  1364."* 
Eminent  Men — In  the  Craufurd  family  there  were  many  indi- 
viduals who  were  distinguished  for  their  talents,  their  bravery,  and 
for  the  high  situations  which  they  occupied  in  the  government  of 
the  country.    Alexander  the  third  Earl  of  Craufurd,  who  lived  in 
the  reign  of  James  II.  was  a  man  of  singular  character  and  habits. 
From  the  fierceness  and  cruelty  of  his  temper  and  his  undaunted 
courage,  he  was  surnamed  the  "  Tiger,"  and,  from  his  long  black 
bushy  beard,  he  received  the  appellation  of  Earl  Beardie.  Though 
a  great  part  of  his  property  and  his  principal  residence  were  in 
Angus,  it  is  generally  understood  that  he  resided  occasionally  in 
Fife.    He  is  said  to  have  built  the  castle  of  Lordscairnie,  in  the 
parish  of  Moonzie,  and  this  account  is  confirmed  by  its  being  call- 
ed Earl  Beardie's  castle  to  this  day.    It  is  a  large  and  lofty  build- 
ing, being  54  feet  in  length,  and  40  in  breadth  over  walls,  and 
four  stories  high.    The  walls  are  nearly  6  feet  thick,  are  com- 
posed of  every  kind  of  stones,  and  bound  together  by  the  strong- 
est cement.    The  ground  floor,  it  is  likely,  was  occupied  with 
kitchen  and  cellars,  and  the  second  with  the  great  baronial  hall. 
It  is  now  in  a  very  dilapidated  state.    The  outward  walls  or  shell 
of  the  castle  still  remains,  but  the  roof  and  floors  are  entirely  gone, 
and  even  the  ribats  of  the  windows  and  the  corner-stones' of  the 
building  have  disappeared.     The  tenants  of  the  estate,  who  were 
formerly  in  the  habit  of  making  a  quarry  of  the  castle  to  obtain 
stones  for  buildmg  houses  or  dikes,  are  now  very  properly  pro- 
hibited by  their  leases  from  making  any  farther  encroachment 
upon  It.    There  was  formerly  a  wall  of  considerable  height  and 
thickness  round  the  castle,  called  the  -  rampart  wall,"  includinn- 
several  acres  of  ground,  and  having  towers  on  it  at  some  distanc^ 
from  each  other.    A  part  of  this  wall  on  the  north  existed  till 
vvithin  these  few  years,  and  one  of  the  towers  still  remains.  From 
the  construction  of  this  tower,  it  had  evidently  been  a  place  of  de- 

•  Wood's  Peerage. 


790 


FIFESHIUE. 


fence,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  near  the  gate  which  formed 
the  principal  entrance  to  the  castle.  Within  the  memory  of  some 
individuals  in  the  parish,  there  was  another  tower  to  the  north  of 
the  castle,  which  contained  an  oven,  and  had  heen  devoted  to  cu- 
linary purposes. 

The  castle  is  situated  ou  a  gently  rising  ground,  and  in  ancient 
times,  before  Lordscairnie  Myre  was  drained,  in  the  midst  of 
which  it  is  placed,  must  have  been  surrounded  with  water,  and 
nearly  inaccessible. 

This  celebrated  member  of  the  Craufurd  family  was  strongly 
imbued  with  the  factious  and  turbulent  spirit  of  the  age  in  which 
he  lived.    He  was  engaged. in  frequent  bloody  disputes  with  the 
nobility  and  gentry  of  his  neighbourhood,  and  on  all  occasions  he 
displayed  great  ferocity  and  courage.    Near  Arbroath,  he  de- 
feated the  Ogilvies,  a  powerful  family  in  Angus,  in  a  pitched 
battle  ;   and  after  having  slaughtered  them  in  great  numbers, 
plundered  their  houses,  wasted  their  lands,  and  made  captives 
their  wives  and  children.    Like  many  of  the  feudal  barons  of 
those  days,  he  not  only  quarrelled  with  his  neighbours  and  equals, 
but  rebelled  against  the  authority  of  his  sovereign.  '  He  entered 
into  a  league  with  the  Earl  of  Douglas  and  the  Lord  of  the  Isles, 
two  of  the  most  powerful  nobles  of  the  kingdom,  to  dethrone 
James  H.  and  subvert  his  government.   Lord  Huntly,  a  nobleman 
of  great  talent  and  bravery,  was  employed  by  his  sovereign  to 
pulldown  this  unjust  and  unnatural  rebellion.    Having  collected 
a  respectable  army,  he  attacked  Craufurd,  who  was  posted  with 
his  forces  in  a  moor  near  Brechin,  and,  after  an  obstinate  struggle, 
totally  defeated  him.    Not  long  after  this  humiliating  defeat, 
Craufurd,  through  the  influence  of  Huntly,  made  his  peace  with 
the  King.   While  James  was  travelling  through  Angus,  receivmg 
the  homage  of  his  subjects,  Craufurd  suddenly  presented  himself 
before  the  King,  clothed  in  mean  apparel,  with  his  head  and  feet 
bare,  and  attended  by  a  few  miserable-looking  ragged  servants, 
and  throwing  himself  on  his  knees,  he  humbly  confessed  his  guilt 
and  implored  forgiveness.    The  King,  moved  by  his  penitence 
and  professions  of  attachment,  and  persuaded  by  the  entreaties  of 
his  barons,  mercifully  pardoned  his  treasons,  and  generously  re- 
stored him  the  lands  and  titles  which  he  had  justly  forfeited  by 
his  rebellious  conduct.    Craufurd  appears  to  have  been  deeply 
affected  by  the  kindness  and  lenity  of  his  sovereigrt.   He  accom- 
panied James  in  his  tour  through  the  country,  entertained  hun 


MOONZIE. 


791 


most  splendidly  in  his  castle  at  Finbaven,  and  was  ever  afterwards 
a  faithful  and  obedient  subject.  He  did  not  long  survive  his 
reconciliation  with  the  King.  In  about  six  months  after,  he 
was  seized  with  a  fever,  which  carried  him  off  in  a  few  days. 
He  died  in  1454,  and  was  buried  in  the  Gray  friars'  Church  of 
Dundee. 

Another  distinguished  individual  belonging  to  the  parish  was 
Sir  William  Ramsay  of  CoUuthie.  He  lived  in  the  reign  of  David 
H.,  King  of  Scotland,  and  was  renowned  both  for  his  wisdom  and 
bravery.  He  was  present  at  the  fatal  battle  of  Durham  in  1346, 
in  which  the  Scottish  army  was  totally  routed,  and,  along  with  many 
of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  was  unfortunately  taken  prisoner. 
After  his  liberation  from  captivity,  he,  with  a  great  number  of  his 
countrymen,  entered  into  the  service  of  the  King  of  France,  and 
fought  against  the  English,  who  were  then  threatening  the  subju- 
gation of  that  country.  At  the  celebrated  battle  of  Poictiers  in 
1356,  where  the  Scottish  auxiliaries  behaved  with  the  utmost  bra- 
very, and  suffered  most  severely,  he  had  again  the  misfortune  to  be 
taken  prisoner.  On  the  evening  after  the  battle,  he  displayed  great 
address  and  sagacity  in  accomplishing  the  deliverance  of  Archibald 
Douglas,  a  man  of  high  rank,  and  an  eminent  Scottish  warrior,  who 
had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  English.  When  the  prisoners  were 
assembled,  Douglas  was  found  arrayed  in  armour  of  the  most  splen- 
did description,  and  it  was  concluded  by  his  conquerors  that  he 
was  a  man  of  noble  birth,  and  a  most  valuable  prize.  Ramsay,  wlio 
was  present,  declared  in  the  most  positive  terms  that  Douglas,  in- 
stead of  being  a  nobleman,  was  a  mean  fellow ;  some  servant  who 
had  either  stolen  the  armour  of  his  master,  or  taken  it  from  his 
body.  He  abused  him  in  the  grossest  terms ;  commanded  him  to 
pull  off  his  boots,  and  beat  him  with  one  of  them  most  unmerci- 
fully. To  all  this  injurious  treatment,  Douglas,  who  saw  his  de- 
sign, submitted  without  murmur  or  reply.  Ramsay  having  thus 
lulled  the  suspicions  of  the  English  asleep,  paid  forty  shillings  for 
his  ransom,  and  thus  enabled  him  to  escape  from  captivity,  and 
perhaps  from  death.  Sir  William  Ramsay  was  connected  with 
some  of  the  first  families  in  Scotland.  In  consequence  of  marry- 
ing Isabel  Countess  of  Fife,  daughter  of  Duncan,  last  Earl  of 
Fife,  he  was  invested  with  the  Earldom  by  King  David  II.  It  has 
been  asserted,  that  he  had  a  right  to  this  title  by  blood ;  but  this 
account  is  not  established  by  satisfactory  evidence.    He  received 


792 


FIFESHIRB. 


the  title  as  a  mark  of  favour  from  his  sovereign,  and,  dying  with- 
out issue,  it  returned  to  the  Crown.  The  old  house  of  Colluthie 
is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Sir  William.  But  this  is  bestowing 
an  antiquity  on  it  to  which  it  has  no  just  claim,  and  which  is  only 
supported  by  the  most  vague  tradition.  The  house  is  a  small  plain 
building,  remarkable  only  for  the  thickness  of  its  walls  and  some 
arched  doors  and  windows.  It  was  long  much  neglected,  and 
nearly  uninhabitable,  but  it  has  been  lately  repaired  by  its  present 
proprietor,  Mr  J.  Inglis,  at  considerable  expense,  and  may  now 
accommodate  a  respectable  family. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parochial  registers  are  not  of  ancient 
date.  The  first  entry  in  the  minute-book  is  on  November  6th 
1693.  Baptisms  were  first  recorded  in  1713,  and  marriages  in 
1769.  Since  1821,  births  and  baptisms,  as  well  as  marriages  and 
deaths,  have  been  regularly  recorded. 

Antiquities. — When  the  church  was  repaired  in  1821,  there  was 
found  in  the  east  end  of  it  a  coffin  containing  some  human  bones 
in  a  mouldering  state,  and  a  thigh-bone  in  good  preservation.  The 
side  stones  of  the  coffin  consisted  of  two  long  sandstones,  and  the 
bottom  of  Dutch  square  bricks.  The  upper  stone,  or  cover,  on 
which  there  is  often  an  inscription,  had,  it  is  likely,  been  removed 
at  some  early  period,  but  on  one  of  the  side-stones  there  was  cut 
out  the  figure  of  a  sword,  indicating  that  the  person  who  had  been 
entombed  there  had  been  a  soldier  or  warrior.  It  is  probable  that 
he  belonged  to  the  Craufurd  family,  who  had  large  property  in 
the  parish,  and  were  generally  military  men. 

Several  years  ago,  when  some  labourers  were  casting  a  ditch  on 
the  west  side  of  the  f>irm  of  Moonzie,  they  discovered  several  stone 
coffins  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  From  the  rude  materials 
of  which  they  were  composed,  and  the  exposed  situation  in  which 
they  were  placed,  they  do  not  appear  to  have  contained  the  ashes 
of  the  illustrious  dead,  but  to  have  been  the  repositories  of  some 
ignoble  individuals.  Some  coins  have  been  found  in  different 
places  of  the  parish,  but  none  of  any  importance  either  from  their 
antiquity  or  intrinsic  value. 

III. — Population. 

The  return  to  Dr  Webster  in  1735,  was  271 

1793,       .  171 

1831,       .  188 

1841,       .  174 


MOONZIE. 


793. 


The  population  of  the  parish  was  formerly  tnuch  greater  than 
•it  is  at  present* 

Different  causes  appear  to  have  operated  in  producing  this  de- 
crease. About  fifty  or  sixty  years  ago,  the  farms  in  this  country 
were  generally  of  small  extent,  and  much  more  numerous  than  at 
present.  Ample  employment  and  maintenance  were  thus  afforded 
to  many  families,  and  the  population  of  the  country  parishes  con- 
sequently great.  But  the  farms  are  now  generally  of  large  ex- 
tent and  few  in  number,  and  though  laboured  much  more  skilfully 
and  perfectly  than  formerly,  the  number  of  cultivators  is  much  di- 
minished. It  was  also  the  practice  of  the  farmers  in  these  times 
to  lease  out  to  each  of  their  cottars,  and  to  those  who  had  houses 
on  the  farm,  two  or  three  acres  of  land  at  a  moderate  rent,  and  to 
give  it  the  requisite  cultivation.  They  also  allowed  them  to  keep 
cows,  and  provided  them  with  grass  in  the  summer  and  straw  in 
the  winter,  for  their  maintenance.  These  privileges  were  highly 
valued  by  the  people,  and  contributed  much  to  their  comfort  and 
advantage.  From  the  produce  of  their  land  and  dairy,  they  had 
abundance  of  plain  food  for  the  maintenance  of  themselves  and 
families ;  and  in  seasons  of  sickness,  when  unable  for  their  daily 
labour,  they  could  subsist  for  a  time  on  their  own  means  without 
being  forced  to  apply  for  public  aid.  But  this  practice  has  been 
discontinued,  and  none  even  of  the  farm-servants  enjoy  the  advan- 
tage of  a  cow  except  the  Foreman.  In  consequence  of  this  change, 
the  people  of  the  country  who  were  tradesmen,  seeing  that  they 
enjoyed  none  of  the  comforts  of  the  country,  left  the  habitations  of 
their  fathers,  and  established  themselves  in  the  towns  from  which 
their  employment  was  principally  derived.  This  desertion  has 
produced  in  many  parishes  a  paucity  of  labourers  for  field  work, 
particularly  for  the  green  crop  husbandry,  which  has  been  rapidly 
increasing  for  some  time  past,  and  is  now  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent. 


The  yearly  average  of  births  for  the  last  seven  years  is,  .  5 

deaths,      .          .           .  •           .  3 

marriages,     .           .  .           .  .2 

Average  number  of  persons  under  15  years  of  age,  .       *  79 

between  IS  and  30,  .  391 

30  and  50,  .             .  39 

50  and  70,  .             .  16 

upwards  of  70,  .             .  9 


There  are  only  three  proprietors  of  land  in  the  parish,  and  none 
of  them  reside  in  it.    The  income  of  each  is  upwards  of  L.  50, 


794  FIFHSHIRE.  m 

Number  of  mimavried  men,  bachelors,  and  widowers  upwards  of  50,  4 
■women  upwards  of  45,  •  •  q 

Average  number  of  children  in  each  family,  •  •  3 

IV. — Industry. 
The  great  majority  of  the  people  of  this  parish  are  engaged  in 
agriculture,  either  as  farmers  and  ploughmen,  or  as  day-labourers. 
The  number  of  tradesmen  is  small,  four  masons,  three  carpenters, 
and  seven  weavers.    There  are  about  1000  Scots  or  1261  impe- 
rial acres  in  the  parish.    The  whole  is  arable  and  in  a  high  state 
of  cultivation,  except  a  few  acres  on  the  top  of  Colluthie  hill, 
which  is  steep  and  rocky,  and  incapable  of  being  ploughed,  and 
which  has  been  planted  with  wood,  principally  Scots  firs.  The 
soil  in  general  is  excellent,  being  chiefly  a  black  loam,  restmg  up- 
on trap  or  rotten-rock.    In  some  places  it  is  a  strong  coarse  clay 
with  a  wet  bottom  ;  and  there  are  about  thirty-six  acres  of  moss- 
land  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Lordscairnie.    Withm  the  recol- 
lection of  the  present  incumbent,  improvements  of  the  most  valu- 
able and  substantial  nature  have  been  accomplished.  Upwards 
of  sixty  acres  of  land,  which  were  formerly  covered  with  whms 
and  broom,  have  been  trenched,  and  manured  and  converted  into 
productive  soil.     The  land  has  been  subdivided  and  inclosed, 
drained  in  the  most  effectual  manner,  and  cropped  so  judiciously 
as  both  to  keep  it  as  clean  as  a  garden,  and  also  to  make  it  most 

productive.  ,    t  o  c 

The  averacre  rent  of  a  Scots  acre  of  land  may  be  L.2,  5s. 
The  grazing  of  an  ox  of  twenty-five  stones  weight  or  upwards 
may  cost  during  the  summer  from  L.l,  15s.  to  L.2     The  keep 
of  one  during  the  winter  for  six  months,  on  turnips  and  straw,  from 
L  2,  10s.  to  L.3.    The  grazing  of  a  wedder  or  ewe  L.  1  per  an- 


num. 


Z.z«e-SfccA.-Great  attention  has  been  paid  in  the  parish  to 
the  breeding  of  domestic  animals.  Several  of  the  farmers  rear  a 
number  of  young  horses  every  year,  and  occasionally  purchase  some 
brood  mares  from  adjoining  counties  to  improve  their  own  stock. 
Smill  active  horses  are  in  general  preferred  to  large  and  heavy 
one  as  they  are  better  fitted  than  the  others  for  labouring  the  hd- 
W  t  ound  of  the  north  side  of  Fife.  The  Fife  breed  of  oxen 
whi^l  is  generally  of  a  black  colour  and  horned,  is  the  favour  te 
b  tht  quarter.  Not  long  ago,  it  had  rather  fallen  into  disrepute  ; 
bnt  the  tide  is  now  turned,  and  from  the  attention  directed  to  its 
i:piove:ent,  it  bids  fair  to  rival  the  best  breeds  .n  the  kingdom. 


MOONZIE. 


795 


The  Teeswater  or  short-horned  breed  from  England  was  intro- 
duced here  some  years  ago,  and  is  still  highly  esteemed  by  some 
agriculturists.  The  principal  advantage  of  this  breed  consists  in 
their  capability  of  being  made  fat  when  only  two  years  of  age.  But, 
notwithstanding  this  recommendation,  it  is  now  beginning  to  be  less 
esteemed,  and  to  give  way  either  to  the  Fife  or  dodded  cattle  of 
Angus. 

There  is  only  one  tenant  in  the  parish  who  keeps  a  breeding 
stock  of  sheep  on  his  farm.  They  are  a  mixture  of  the  Leicester 
and  Cheviot.  He  has  lately  got  some  ewes  of  the  Dorsetshire 
breed,  which  are  of  large  size  and  horned,  and  produce  lambs 
twice  a-year.  A  six  years'  rotation  is  the  mode  of  cropping  gene- 
rally adopted.  1.  Fallow  or  green  crop;  2.  wheat;  3.  pease  or 
beans ;  4.  barley  with  grass  seeds ;  5.  grass  cut  or  pastured ;  6. 
oats. 

The  tenants  in  this  parish  enjoy  particular  advantages  in  regard 
to  their  leases.  These  extend  in  general  to  twenty-five  years,  and 
include  no  restrictions  of  an  oppressive  nature. 

The  farm  steadings  of  the  principal  tenants  are  of  a  superior 
kind,  built  upon  the  most  approved  plans,  and  affording  every  ne- 
cessary accommodation.  As  a  proof  of  the  spirit  of  enterprize  and 
improvement  which  exists  amongst  us,  it  may  be  mentioned  that, 
though  there  are  only  four  thrashing-mills  in  the  parish,  two  of 
these  are  driven  by  steam. 

The  soil  is  every  year  changing  its  appearance  and  becoming 
more  productive.  A  laudable  spirit  of  rivalry  prevails  amongst  the 
farmers,  and  leads  them  to  adopt  every  improvement  which  may 
benefit  the  land  as  well  as  promote  their  own  interest. 

Produce. — Amount  of  raw  produce  raised  in  the  parish  : 

Produce  in  grain  4000  bolls,  .          ,  L.4000 

Stock  sold  annually,          .  .           .  700 

Dairy,              .           .  .          .       '   .  100 

Potatoes,    .          .          .  .           .  ]QQ 


L.  4900 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Mar/te^-rowH.— Cupar,  which  is  about  three  miles  distant,  is 
the  nearest  market-town.  Every  article  of  country  produce  finds 
there  a  ready  sale  and  a  good  price.  There  are  several  small  col- 
lections  of  houses  in  the  parish  which  hardly  deserve  the  names  of 
villages.  They  are  the  residences  of  the  "agricultural  labourers 
belongmg  to  the  different  farms,  and  of  a  few  tradesmen.  There 
has  been  no  mn  in  the  parish  for  many  years. 


796 


riFESHIRE. 


.  Means  of  Communication.-— The  nearest  post-office  is  Cupar, 
The  turnpike  road  leading  from  Cupar  to  Newburgh,  and  extend- 
ing to  one  mile  and  1400  yards,  lies  along  the  south  boundary  of 
the  parish.  A  statute  labour  road  of  one  mile  and  500  yards 
connects  the  Newburgh  road  on  the  south  with  the  great  Dun- 
dee road  on  the  north.  There  is,  beside,  a  private  farm  road  which 
goes  through  the  middle  of  the  parish. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  of  Moonzie  is  situated  on  a 
rising  ground  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  parish,  and  is  easily 
accessible  to  all  the  population.  It  is  a  small  plain  building,  with- 
out spire  or  other  ornament.  From  its  elevated  position,  it  forms 
a  conspicuous  object  from  the  Newburgh  road,  and  enjoys  the 
name  of  the  Visible  Kirk,  from  being  a  landmark  to  mariners  en- 
tering the  Tay.  It  has  all  the  marks  of  an  old  building,  but  the 
time  of  its  erection  is  unknown.  It  was  lately  repaired  and  new 
seated ;  and  though  not  possessed  of  any  external  beauty,  is  now 
a  comfortable  place  of  worship.  It  has  accommodation  for  171 
sitters.    All  the  sittings  are  free. 

The  church  and  teinds  of  the  parish  of  Moonzie  belonged  at 
one  time  to  a  religious  fraternity  at  Scotland  Well,  in  Kinross- 
shire,  called  the  Ministers  of  the  Fratres  Sanctaj  Trinitatis  de 
Redemptione  Captivorum.  William  Malvoisin,  Bishop  of  St  An- 
drews, who  died  in  1238,  was  the  founder  of  this  institution,  and 
set  apart  the  teinds  of  the  parish  of  Moonzie  for  its  support.  Its 
design  was  to  show  hospitality  to  religious  pilgrims,  and  collect 
money  for  the  redemption  of  Christians  who  had  been  taken  cap- 
tives by  the  Turks.  The  brethren  of  the  ministry  performed  the 
spiritual  duties  of  the  parish,  and  continued  to  act  in  that  capacity 
till  the  Reformation.  In  1564,  the  parish  of  Moonzie  was  united 
to  that  of  Cupar;  but,  in  1625,  it  was  disjoined  and  again  made 
a  separate  parish,  and  Mr  James  Wedderburn  admitted  minister. 

List  of  Ministers  since  the  Reformation. — William  Grey,  reader, 
admitted  1576;  Mr  James  Wedderburn,  admitted  1625,  died 
1661  ;  Mr  J.  Wedderburn,  Yo.,  admitted  2d  September  1659, 
deposed  1662;  Mr  James  Forsyth,  1664;  Mr  David  Bayne, 
1675;  Mr  James  Ross,  outed  1689;  Mr  Andrew  Young,  ad- 
mitted November  21,  1693,  died  1699  ;  Mr  William  Myles,  ad- 
mitted September  12,  1700;  Mr  Archibald  Myles,  admitted 
September  4,  1739  ;  Mr  David  Burn,  admitted  July  24,  1755; 
Mr  Robert  Swan,  admitted  August  9,  1770;  Mr  Andrew  Ireland, 


MOONZIE. 


797 


admitted  March  16,  1777  ;  the  present  incumbent,  admitted  Sep- 
tember 3,  1807. 

The  manse  was  built  about  thirty-six  years  ago,  and,  though  in 
tolerable  repair,  is  small  and  inconvenient,  and  far  inferior  in 
point  of  accommodation  to  the  manses  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  glebe  consists  of  fifteen  acres,  and  may  be  worth  L.30  per 
annum.  The  stipend  is  L.177,  18s.  8|d.  in  money,  and  7  bolls, 
3  firlots,  1  peck,  3|  lippiesmeal,  and  3  bolls,  3  firlots.  Specks,  3| 
lippies  barley. 

Forty-one  families  attend  the  Established  Church  ;  two  families 
are  Dissenters.  140  persons  at  an  average  attend  public  worship 
in  the  parish  church  each  Lord's  day."  There  are  eight  Dissenters 
who  go  to  different  churches  in  Cupar.  The  average  number  of 
communicants  for  the  last  seven  years,  is  110.  The  average  amount 
of  church  collections  yearly  for  religious  and  charitable  objects  is 
L.3,  10s. 

Education. — There  is  only  one  school,  the  parochial.  It  is 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  parish,  and  is  attended  by  about  60 
scholars.  The  present  teacher  has  officiated  in  that  capacity  for 
upwards  of  forty  years  with  great  credit  to  himself,  and  much  to 
the  advantage  of  the  youth  in  the  neighbourhood.  His  legal  sa- 
lary is  only  L.30  per  annum ;  but  the  heritors  lately,  sensible  of 
his  merit,  raised  it  to  the  maximum  during  his  life.  No  perqui- 
sites of  any  kind  are  allowed.  The  fees  in  all  do  not  exceed 
L.  14  per  annum.  The  school-room  is  of  sufficient  size,  but  the 
ceiling  is  low,  which  makes  it  uncomfortable  for  the  young  people 
during  the  heat  of  summer.  The  teacher's  house  is  small,  and 
would  require  both  repair  and  enlargement. 

Poo7'  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
receiving  parochial  aid  is  4.  Some  receive  2s.,  others  Is.  6d.  or 
Is.  per  week,  according  to  their  circumstances.  The  annual 
amount  of  collections  at  the  church  doors  for  relief  of  the  poor  is 
L.  2,  14s.  ;  rent  of  land,  L,  35  ;  seat  rent  in  Cupar  church, 
16s.;  total,  L.  38,  10s.  7^d.  It  will  be  seen  from  this  state- 
ment, that  the  principal  fund  for  the  support  of  the  poor  is 
derived  from  land.  Six  acres  of  land  were  purchased  by  the 
session  of  Moonzie  in  the  parish  of  Cupar,  about  the  middle 
of  last  century,  at  a  low  price.  They  were  enabled  to  do  this, 
in  consequence  of  a  legacy  left  them  by  the  last  Episcopal 
curate  of  the  parish,  and  from  the  savings  of  their  collections. 
From  the  rent  stated,  there  falls  to  be  deducted  various  bur- 


798 


FIFESHUIE. 


dens,  which  considerably  lessen  its  amount,  such  as  minister's 
stipend  in  Cupar,  repairs  of  church  and  manse,  bridge,  and  rogue 
money,  bishop's  rents,  as  well  as  beadle,  precentor's,  and  session- 
clerk's  salary.  The  funds,  however,  have  proved  sufficieqt  for  the 
maintenance  of  the  poor,  and  no  application  has  been  made  to  the 
heritors  for  any  assistance.  The  poor  evince  a  laudable  spirit  of 
independence,  and  the  funds  have  generally  been  employed  for 
the  support  of  the  aged  andinfirm. 

Fuel— The  fuel  commonly  used  is  coal,  either  English  coal 
brought  from  Newburgh  or  Balmerino,  or  Scots  coal  from  Balbir- 
nie  or  Dysart.  The  price  varies  according  to  the  demand,  and 
has  been  higher  for  these  two  last  years  than  formerly.  A  single 
horse  cart-load  at  Dysart,  where  they  are  cheapest,  and  which 
contains  12  cwt.,  costs  3s.  3d.  To  this  there  is  to  be  added,  tolls 
and  carriage,  which  will  amount  at  least  to  as  much  more.  Eng- 
lish coal  are  sold  at  Newburgh  at  from  4s.  6d.  to  5s.  the  boll  of 
6  cwt. 

[  January  1843. 


PARISH  OF  SALINE.* 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 


T  —TOPOGRVPHY  AND  NaTURAL  HiSTORY. 

Name  -The  name  is  supposed  to  be  Gaelic,  sign.fy.ng  a  Ml 
ormountain,-refen\us  to  a  hill  in  the  parish  called  Sahne  HUl 

V.fpnt  Sec -The  parish  is  seven  miles  long  from  east  to  west, 
«nd  ^brotd  at  the  centre  from  south  to  north.  The  eastern 
part,  embracing  nearly  one-half  of  the  surface,  is  hilly  and  marshy, 

fVie  western  part  level. 

Soil  L--The  soil  is,  in  general,  thin  and  of  a  tdly  bottom. 
There  are  large  tracks  of  moss  which  yield  excellent  peat.  The 
parish  abounds  with  coal,  lime,  and  ironstone. 
^  n. — Civil  History. 

Parochial  Registers.-The  records  of  the  kirk-session  commence 

.  From  notes  furnished  by  Mr  A.  D.  Robertson,  parochial  schoolmaster  of  Sa- 


line. 


SALINE. 


799 


in  1704,  and  have  been  regularly  kept  ever  since.  The  register  of 
births  and  baptisms  begins  in  1696,  and  seems  to  have  been  pretty 
regularly  kept  up  to  this  time.  There  are  no  registrations  of 
marriages  till  1765,  since  which  time  they  have  been  regularly  kept. 

Land-owners. — The  principal  land-owners,  with  their  respective 
valuations,  are  as  follows  : 

The  Trustees  of  Sir  Robert  Preston,       .       L.  669  2  8 

Mr  Beveridge  of  Inzievar,  606  0  0 

Mr  Aytoun  of  Killerney.       .  .              566  0  0 

Mr  Erskine  of  Under  Kineddar,  .       402  0  0 

Mr  Oliphant  of  Upper  Kineddar,  .              394  8  0 

Mr  Telfer  of  Balgonar,  .              ,       203  0  0 

Mr  Hogg  of  Bandrum,         .  .             146  0  0 

Mansion- Houses,  ^c. — These  are,  Kineddars,  Inzievar,  Hill- 
side, Bandrum,  Balgonar,  Kirklands,  Rhynds,  and  Oakley. 

Antiquities. —  There»are  still  the  remains  visible  in  this  parish 
of  two  old  towers,  some  cairns,  and  two  Roman  camps. 

Ill, — Population. 


Amount  of  population  in  1801,  .  945 

1811,  .  1072 

1821,  .  1123 

1831,  .  1139 

1841,  .  1057 


Number  of  inhabitants  in  the  village,  .  400 

in  the  country,        .  657 
illegitimate  children,  last  three  years,  5 

IV. — Industry. 

Rent. — Average  rent  of  land  per  acre,  L.l,  10s.  Real  rent  of 
the  parish  about  L.6000. 

The  more  recent  agricultural  improvements  have  been  in  drain- 
ing, which  for  some  years  has  been  carried  on  to  a  great  extent. 

Valued  rent,  L.4078,  19s.  4d.  Scots. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

The  village  of  Saline  is  beautifully  situated.  It  consists  of  small 
feus  held  of  the  family  of  Torrie. 

Ecclesiastical  State. —  All  the  families  in  the  parish  except  four 
belong  to  the  Established  Church.  The  present  minister,  who  en- 
joys a  green  old  age,  and  his  predecessor,  have  one  after  the  other 
filled  the  cure  upwards  of  1 13  years. 

The  amount  of  stipend  is  L.l  50,  of  which  L.63  is  paid  from  the 
funds  of  the  Exchequer.  The  glebe  is  six  acres  in  extent ;  value, 
L.2  per  acre.  The  manse  was  built  about  forty-nine  years  ago, 
and  both  it  and  the  offices  are  in  a  miserable  state. 

Education. — The  number  of  schools  in  the  parish,  exclusive  of 
Sabbath  schools,  is  two.  Yearly  amount  of  parochial  school-mas- 


800 


FIKESHIRE. 


ter's  salary,  L.34,  4s.  3cl. ;  school-fees,  L.40,  10s.;  other  emolu- 
ments, L.7,  10s. 

Poor. — Average  number  of  poor,  16.  Average  sum  given  an- 
nually to  each,  L.3, 18s.,  and  a  cart-load  of  coals  in  winter.  Ave- 
rage annual  amount  of  contributions  for  do.  L.68,  of  which  L.36 
is  from  collections  at  the  church-door,  and  the  remainder  from  do- 
nations, &c.  There  has  never  been  any  legal  assessment  for  the 
poor. 

1842. 


PARISH  OF  KINGHORN. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  KIRKALDY,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  FERGUS  JARDINE,  A.  M.,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

ISfame. — The  name  Kinghorn  is  evidently  formed  of  two  old 
British  or  Celtic  words,  cz/n  (kin J.  and  quern  or  gem,  which 
signify  the  "  head  of  the  spouty  land,  or  land  of  springs," — 
this  being  descriptive  of  the  position  and  locality  of  the  town, 
which  is  built  upon  the  bend  and  acclivity  of  the  ground  form- 
ed by  the  Bay  of  Kinghorn.  Behind  the  rising  ground  upon 
which  the  town  stands,  there  is  a  loch  of  considerable  extent, 
which  sends  forth  a  stream  that  intersects  the  town;  and  there  are 
various  myres  or  marshes,  two  of  which  are  called  the  Easter  and 
Wester  Myres,  which  contribute  their  respective  rivulets  to  mark 
the  boundary  of  the  old  burgh. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. —  The  parish  extends  over  a  little  more 
than  8  square  miles.  Its  greatest  length  is  4|  miles,  and  its 
greatest  breadth  is  about  3^  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  and 
north  by  Abbotshall ;  on  the  north  and  west,  by  Auchtertool  and 
Aberdour ;  on  the  west,  by  Burntisland ;  and  on  the  south  and 
.tiouth-east,  it  is  washed  by  the  Frith  of  Forth.  It  has  somewhat 
the  shape  of  an  awkwardly  formed  eight  figure,  from  portions  of 
Abbotshall  and  Burntisland  running  into  it  on  the  east  and  west. 
It  is  beautifully  diversified  both  in  its  marine  and  interior  outline. 
The  ground  rises  in  some  places  abruptly,  and  in  others  gradually 
from  the  shore,  and  the  alternations  of  hill  and  valley,  of  finely 


KINGHORN. 


801 


cultivated  fields und  narrow  straths,  watered  by  some  small  rivulets, 
continue  to  ascend  till  the  whole  is  surmounted  by  the  Hill  of  Glass- 
mount,  about  two-and-a-half  miles  from  the  shore.  This  hill  is  the 
highest  ground  in  the  parish,  being  601  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Northwards  from  it,  there  is  a  greater  equality  of  surface, 
although  in  some  places  the  rich  arable  fields  are  varied  by  beau- 
tiful knolls  and  gentle  swellings  of  the  ground,  with  occasional 
patches  of  table-land.  This  stretch  of  the  parish  is  bounded  and 
embellished  by  the  finely  wooded  hill  on  which  the  mansion-house 
of  Raith  is  built,  the  property  of  Colonel  Fergusson. 

Nor  is  the  coast  less  diversified.    From  its  junction  with  Burnt- 
island parish  on  the  west,  to  its  termination  on  the  east  with  Abbots- 
hall,  where  the  Tiel  Burn  empties  itself  into  the  sea,  the  extent 
along  the  shore  cannot  be  less  than  four  miles.  Along  this,  there  is 
much  to  attract  the  geologist,  and  gratify  the  lover  of  the  pictu- 
resque. Near  the  Burntisland  boundary,  there  is  a  lofty  overhang- 
ing cliff,  marked  at  one  spot  with  the  melancholy  name  of  the 
"  King's  wud  end,"  in  reference  to  the  event  to  be  afterwards 
noticed.    Onwards  to  the  harbour  of  Pettycur,  the  shore  is  of 
a  fine  level  sand.    The  coast  then  becomes  bold  and  rugged. 
The  trap  rock  has  here  assumed  a  columnar  form,  and  its  immense 
fragments,  as  they  have  become  separated  from  the  columnar 
masses,  lie  in  endless  confusion  on  the  shore.    They  form  the 
headland  called  Kinghorn  Ness,  where,  towards  the  east,  the  bay 
of  Kinghorn  opens.  From  this  point,  the  bay  is  formed  by  a  curve 
of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  extent,  till,  on  the  east,  it  termi- 
nates in  the  Kirk-craig,— a  bold  projection  of  rock  which  runs 
from  the  churchyard  a  considerable  distance  into  the  sea,  and 
forms  a  natural  break-water  or  shelter  to  the  old  harbour  of  King- 
horn, which  was  built  on  that  side  of  the  bay.    Beyond  this,  the 
shore  is  beautifully  diversified,  and  the  action  of  the  tide  has,  in 
many  places,  laid  bare  the  stratified  rocks  which  are  found  per^ 
vading  this  part  of  Fife.    About  a  mile  to  the  east  of  Kinghorn, 
a  cave  of  considerable  size  presents  itself,  with  its  dark  mouth 
looking  out  upon  the  sea,  and  guarded  on  each  side  by  two  bold 
projecting  rocks.   This  is  the  only  natural  cavern  along  this  shore. 
There  is,  at  a  small  distance  from  it,  a  curious  excavation  of  earth, 
formed  by  an  attempt  to  work  the  limestone  which  is  found  here. 

Meteorologij.^The  following  table,  as  taken  from  the  meteoro. 
logical  journal,  kept  at  Inchkeith  by  the  present  intell  igent  keeper 


802 


FIFBSIIIUE. 


of  the  light-house  there,  shows  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  dur- 
ing the  year  1841  : — 


9  A.M, 

January,  34.7 
February,  37.17 


Monthly  average 

Thermometer  taken  at 


during  the  year  1841.* 

Barometer  taken  at 


March, 
April, 
May, 
June, 
July, 
August, 


44.4 
44.19 
31.8 
52.3 
34.6 
56.11 


September  61-23 
October,  46.1 
November  41.1 
December,40.10 


9  P.M. 

34.25 

38.26 

43.10 

43.26 

50.17 

31.9 

53.20 

55.4 

61.22 

46.13 

41.9 

40.23 


9  A.M. 

29.18 
29.10 
29.28 
29.20 
29.22 
29.24 
29.20 
29.21 
29.19 
29.13 
29.13 
29.12 


9  r.M. 

29.13 

29.8 

29.17 

29.19 

29.24 

29.23 

29.19 

29.23 

29.18 

29.12 

29.11 

29.11 


Rain  in  inches. 


Rain-guage 
at  9  A.M. 

.38 
1.47 

.96 
1.02 
1.16 
1.76 
3.12 
4.63 
2.24 
4.87 
2.04 
2.41 

26.28 


Climote.— The  town  and  parish  of  Kinghorn  are  remarkably 
healthv.  The  town  is  situated  on  a  dry  bed  on  the  side  of  the  brae, 
with  an  abundance  of  rivulets  rushing  down  the  declivities  to  carry 
away  at  once,  into  the  sea,  everything  that  might  otherwise  lie  to 
oppress  the  atmosphere  with  unhealthy  vapours.  Old  age  fands 
here  a  healthy  resting-place.  Several  persons  in  it  at  present  are 
upwards  of  ninety  years  of  age.  . 

Hydrography.— There  are  various  springs  of  excellent  quahty  in 
and  around  Kinghorn.   One  of  these,  about  half  a  mile  to  the  west- 
ward on  the  shore,  has  long  been  known  for  its  medicinal  quahties. 
The  celebrated  Dr  Anderson,  of  pill  notoriety,  and  physician  to 
Charles  I.,  wrote  a  treatise  on  this  water  in  1618,  and  recommended 
its  use  for  allaying  inflammations,  external  and  internal,  and  tor  re- 
moving difficulty  in  breathing  and  other  maladies.  It  is  impregnat- 
ed, he°says,  with  crystal,  gypsum,  and  nitre,  and  acts  as  a  powerful 
diuretic,  while  it  produces  the  most  invigorating  effects  upon  debili- 
tated constitutions.    This  he  was  enabled  to  state  from  observa- 
tion, as  he  attended  patients  while  using  it,  and  gave  directions  in 
what  manner  the  most  salutary  effects  might  be  obtained  from  it. 
It  is  to  be  lamented,  that  the  efficacy  of  this  formerly  noted  spa 
has  not  been  sufficiently  appreciated  of  late  years. 

Kincrhorn  Loch  lies  a  little  to  the  north-west  of  the  town. 
It  covers  a  surface  of  twenty  acres,  is  thirty  feet  deep,  and  is  em- 
bosomed amid  finely  undulating  hills.  The  inhabitants  have  an 
abundant  supply  of  water  from  it,  by  pipes  laid  through  the  streets. 

•  The  raiu.-'uage  at  Inchkeith  is  not  the  most  accurate,  on  account  of  the  position 
of  the  guage.  Ind  the  winds  which  prevail  on  the  island. 


KINGHORN. 


803 


Three  spinning-mills  have  been  built  on  the  margin  of  the  stream 
which  flows  from  it  to  the  sea. 

Geology. — The  parish  is  situated  among  the  coal  measures. 
Where  the  rocks  are  stratified,  they  consist  of  alternations  of  lime- 
stone, sandstone,  shale,  and  coal.    The  beds  of  limestone  have 
been  wrought  in  several  places,  and  have  been  found  of  excellent 
quality.    They  are  of  salt-water  formation,  and  the  petrifactions, 
which  they  contain  in  abundance,  are  those  common  to  the  coal- 
fields, being  chiefly  encrinites,  terebratulites,  and  madrepores. 
The  substance  of  the  limestone  of  one  of  the  strata,  as  Invertiel 
quarry,  is  almost  wholly  fragments  of  encrinites,  and,  when  cut 
and  polished,  serves  as  a  beautiful  material  for  mantel-pieces  and 
other  interior  works.  It  is  probable,  that  some  small  patches  of  fresh- 
water limestone  may  also  be  found  in  the  parish,  as  a  rock  of  this 
kind  appears  near  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  neighbouring  pa- 
rish of  Burntisland,    Some  of  the  sandstone  beds  produce  build- 
ing materials  of  good  quality  ;  but  there  seems  to  be  none  of  great 
thickness,  or  of  the  sort  called  liver-rock.     There  is  nothing  re- 
markable in  the  shales,  further  than  that  there  is  said  to  be  a  good 
fire-clay  situated  near  the  coal-bed.    The  single  bed  of  coal  is 
about  five  feet  thick ;  but  if  oral  report  may  be  credited,  it  was 
wrought  out,  in  former  times,  to  a  depth  of  100  feet,  but  there 
are  no  authentic  accounts  extant  regarding  it.    The  wastes  are  full 
of  water.    The  bearing  of  the  stratified  rocks,  where  they  are  least 
disarranged,  is  northerly,  and  the  coal-bed  seems  to  be  the  lower- 
most one  of  the  extensive  coal-fields  stretching  from  this  parish 
eastward  to  Largo. 

These  stratified  rocks  occupy  only  a  small  extent  in  the  north, 
eastern  part  of  the  parish  ;  the  remaining  part  is  composed  mostly 
of  a  large  outburst  of  trap  rock,  which  extends  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance through  the  neighbouring  parishes  to  the  west,  but  which  con- 
tainshere  and  there patchesofstratified  rocks.  The  unstratified  rock 
IS  chiefly  greenstone,  or,  as  it  is  more  commonly  termed  here,  whin- 
stone.  Its  basaltic  appearance  at  Kinghorn  ness,  and  along  the 
shore  to  Petty  cur  harbour,  has  already  been  alluded  to.  It  has 
there  a  rudely  crystallized  form.  The  greenstone  rock  is  of  vari- 
ous qualities,  some  of  it  being  quite  friable,  while  at  other  places 
It  IS  very  hard  and  tough,  and  forms  excellent  road  materials.  The 
boundary  of  the  trap  rock  is  exceedingly  irregular,  and  has  never 
yet  been  exactly  traced  out.  It  is  probable  that  large  parts  of  it 
are  overlaymg  the  stratified  rocks. 


804 


FIFESHIRE. 


Where  the  rocks  are  laid  bare  by  the  action  of  the  tide  on  the 
beach,  many  features  interesting  to  the  geologist  may  be  seen. 
There  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  trap  dike  separating  the  strata,  and 
lifting  one  side  three  or  four  feet,  which  may  be  seen  at  low  wa- 
ter near  an  old  limekiln,  about  half  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  King- 
horn,  and  there  is  a  sandstone  rock  situated  opposite  Abden  House, 
a  little  to  the  east  of  the  churchyard,  which,  within  a  space  of 
150  or  200  feet,  changes  gradually  from  sandstone  to  quartz  rock. 
There  are  also  specimens,  in  different  parts  of  the  parish,  of  por- 
tions of  coal,  and  shaley  strata,  being  included  among  the  unstra- 
tified  rocks,  and  in  their  burnt  or  changed  appearance  present- 
ing plain  marks  of  the  action  of  heat. 

^The  soil  along  the  shore,  and  to  a  considerable  extent  north- 
wards, is  formed  from  the  trap  rock,  of  a  dark  deep  loam,  and  is 
.  equal  to  the  richest  strath  land  in  any  part  of  Scotland. 

Botamj.—T\\e  following  is  a  list  of  the  rarer  indigenous  plants  m 
the  parish  of  Kinghorn  : — 

HippuHs  vulgaris  Ligusticum  Meum  Thlaspi  arvense 

Utricularia  minor  Vaccinium  Oxycoccos         Cardamuie  amara 

Schoenus  rufus  Saxifraga  tridactylites         Fumana  capreolata 

Primula  elatior  PotentiUa  verna  Orchis  vindis 

Campanula  rapunculoides    Euphorbia  exigua  Listera  ovata 

Polemonium  csruleum        Potentilla  reptans   cordata 

ramnanula  elomerata         Ranunculus  arvensis  Sparganium  natans 

?  Slome  ata  v"r.  alba       Trollius  Europ«us  Ophioglossum  vulgatum 

Viot  odorata  Stachys  arvensis  Lycopodium  Selagino.des 

Chironia  centaurium  var.     Antirrhinum  cymbalaria     Polypodium  Dryopteris 
alL, ,  Orobanche  rubra* 

II. — Civil  History. 
The  town  of  Kinghorn  was  of  such  importance  as  early  as  Da- 
vid I.,  that  that  monarch  conferred  upon  it  the  privileges  of  a 
royal  burgh.  This  grant  was  confirmed  by  Alexander  III.  It 
was  long  distinguished  by  a  royal  residence;  Glammis  Castle  or 
Tower,  which  stood  upon  the  rising  ground  that  overlooks  the 
town.  While  royalty  had  its  residence  here,  it  is  natural  to  sup- 
pose that  it  attracted  many  distinguished  individuals  to  live^  at 
Kinghorn  ;  and  hence  we  find,  in  the  charters  granted  by  Wil- 
liam'^the  Lion  (1171),  the  names  of  William  de  Mortimer,  Gal- 
fred  de  MalleviUef  and  others  «  ap.  Kingorn  ;"  as  witnesses  to 
the  deeds,  along  with  the  Bishop  of  Dunkeld  and  the  Chancellor 

.  Tt,;c  r,lnnt  has  hitherto  only  been  found  in  one  spot  in  Ireland,  on  rocks  in  the 
T  1  ?nf  Hov  and  at  Sea  field  in  this  parish.  It  has  no  leaves,  and  hardly  any  root. 
If  ?^tbout  sL';r  4ht  inches  high,  a„!l  the  whole  plant  is  of  a  rich  red-brown,  some- 

^Tlfnt  Sifoalfred  df  lu^vmr  thetcestor  of  the  Melvilles  of  Raith  and 
Kiltrn,  a^d  wSsl  representative  is  the  present  Earl  of  Leven  and  Melv.lle? 


KINGHORN. 


805 


of  Scotland.*  This  ancient  residence  passed  from  the  Kings  of 
Scotland,  in  the  reign  of  Robert  11.,  into  the  hands  of  Sir  John 
Lyon,  as  a  dowery  to  his  wife,  Janet  Stuart,  daughter  of  Queen 
Ada  Mure  and  of  that  monarch,  who  disponed  the  property  to 
that  knight  "  cum  domino  de  Kinghorn  in  liberum  maritagium." 
The  successors  of  that  knight  enjoyed  first  from  James  VI.  the 
title  of  Earl  of  Kinghorn,  10th  July  1606;  but,  it  is  said,  that, 
from  an  awkward  abbreviation  of  Kinghorn,  f  which  the  people 
were  too  ready  to  discover  and  apply,— the  better  sounding  title  of 
Strathmore,  where  much  of  his  property  lay,  was  bestowed  on  the 
family  by  Charles  II. 

The  historical  events  connected  with  this  parish  are  brief, 
but  important.    In  the  reign  of  Duncan  I.,  whose  fate  is  well 
known  to  every  reader  of  the  immortal  Shakspeare,  Canutus, 
King  of  Norway,  sent  a  large  fleet  commanded  by  his  bro- 
ther, with  9000  men,  who  landed  at  Kinghorn,  and  plundered 
the  adjacent  country,  till  they  were  attacked  and  defeated  with 
great  slaughter  by  Macbeth,  Thane  of  Fife.    But  the  event 
of  greatest  importance  to  Scotland,  connected  with  this  parish, 
was  the  death  of  Alexander  III.  The  greatness  of  that  monarch's 
character— the  importance  of  his  life  to  Scotland  at  that  period— 
the  suddenness  of  his  death— and  the  long  and  cruel  wars  in  which 
Scotland  was  engaged  with  England,  as  well  as  the  internal  dis- 
tractions of  the  kingdom,  which  his  .death  occasioned,  must  ever 
render  the  spot  where  he  met  his  death  an  object  of  deepest  in- 
terest, and  excite  in  the  mind  a  host  of  bitter  reflections.  About 
a  mile  to  the  west  of  Kinghorn,  the  road  from  Inverkeithing  at 
that  time  wound  along  a  high  clifl"  which  rises  abruptly,  and  al- 
most perpendicularly  from  the  level  sand  below  to  the  height  of 
about  150  feet.    About  forty  feet  up  the  side  of  this  precipitous 
bank,  there  abuts  a  rock  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  now  almost 
wholly  covered  with  ivy,  which  marks  the  spot  ^here  the  King 
was  found.    It  received  him  in  his  sheer  descent  over  the  cliff 
above,  where  he  was  thrown  from  his  horse,  and  prevented  him 
from  falling  to  the  level  shore  below.    This  is  the  King's  u;ud 
^d,  not  wood  end,  as  it  has  been  sometimes  erroneously  called. 
Tradition  is  not  the  only  testimony  for  the  identity  of  this  melan- 
choly spot.    A  cross  was  soon  after  the  event  erected  upon  it  to 
point  out  the  place  where  the  King  was  found.    «  Out  upon 

I  Carta  Willelmi  Regis  de  hospitali,  &c. 

t  See  Chambers  8  Gazetteer,  Burgh  of  Kinghorn. 


806  FIFESHIUE. 

time,"  for  it  has  long  since  defaced  this  interesting  object ;  but  it 
is  to  be  hoped  that  it  will  be  replaced  by  a  monument  becoming 
the  event,  and  worthy  of  the  taste  and  wealth  of  the  present  ex- 
cellent proprietor  of  the  property.  * 

Letters,  &^c.  There  is  a  curious  letter  in  the  possession  of  John 

Boswell,  ksq.,  the  proprietor  of  Balmuto,  from  James  VI.  to  the 
laird  of  Balmuto,  which  throws  some  light  on  the  occasional  wants 
and  character  of  that  singular  monarch,  f 

David  Boswell,  who  lent  the  King  the  sum  referred  to  m  the 
document,  was  a  talented  and  pious  man.  There  is  a  6ne  por- 
trait of  him  in  Balmuto,  in  the  attitude  of  study mg  the  J  2th 
Psalm,  with  his  favourite  adage,  "  it  is  ane  guid  sport  to  do  weel." 
His  son.  Sir  George  Boswell,  "  chirurgeon  to  the  King's  grace" 
and  to  Anne  of  Denmark,  of  whom  it  is  stated  in  the  receipt  of 
the  comptroller,  that  he  was  the  bearer  of  the  1000  merks  from 
his  father  to  the  King,  was  as  much  distinguished  for  his  humility 
of  mind  and  urbanity  of  manners,  as  for  his  professional  skill. 
There  is  a  good  picture  of  him  in  Balmuto,  in  the  quaint  attitude 
of  pointing  to  a  skeleton,  and  on  the  back  of  the  portrait  verses 
are  inscribed. 

•  Mrs  0  T.  Bruce  of  Falkland.    Her  uncle,  Professor  Bruce,  the  f^'-'^fr  P"?: 

•  /  u  c^iH  to  have  lone  purposed  to  erect  a  monument  on  the  Kings  wud  end  , 
Sn°o';ornt  coulS  be  mo  '  Liu.^  a  colossal  statue  than  the  rock  from  which  the 
King  fell. 

securitie  wadset  or  othr  wayes     rhe  o^^ 

silver  in  thir  quarters.  A"''' „     -.u     i^u^t  vrself  very  far  than  see 
of  your  guid  f-""un  we  kna^  n^r^,':  ountT;  w    ^he^p^^^^^^^^     of  b  Jth  set  downe 
'''tlt:Jj^Z-i:^rt   WeC;  rXt  'ourselfs  apal^t  frome  or  counsell,  far  by 
befor  the  face  ot  strangers  „  j^y,„rlie  with  you  upone  quhome  we  have  layed 

or  accustom.t  manei^  to  travell  p^^^^^^  ^^J^  ^^^^^  ^^^^ 

or  servitr,   owards  you  to  acsu^  ^^^^  ^^^.^^^  quhairanent  we  have  di- 

r  eUi^par  icula r  ie  q  Assuring  you  the  ma.r  we  are 

vJ'L  t^is  pirrnre  e^t)  nece  sitie,  qu'^  having  ane  competent  tyme  we  could  have 
'''^  H  .  .n^sSr    yoTfurther,  the  mair  deeplie  we  will  imprint  the  ben.fit  kynd- 
remed.t,  ^"/l^'^^'^^^;^", ^yrae  above  all  those  that  ever  we  have  receva.t,  or  w,l 
„ess  ye  -'l^^^'^^^^f^^Jfter^    And  thus  comtts  (eommitts)  you  to  the  Eternall,  at 
recaive  at  any  time       i-.i  CSi^ned)       James  R — 

V  i.ilkland,  ye  second  day  of  September  15Hy.  (.s>onea; 
IMUiKuinu,  y    J  X.  a  letter  and  addressed  on  the  back, 

Made  up  and  folded  as  a  IJ^te, ,^a._^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^.^^  Balmontou." 

The  comptroller's  receipt  for  the  loan  has  also  been  preserved. 


KINGHORN. 


807 


Eminent  Characters. — Besides  those  already  mentioned,  the  fa- 
mily of  Kirkcaldy  of  Grange — (a  property  now  in  the  possession  of 
Colonel  Fergusson  of  Raith,  about  a  mile  to  the  north-east  of 
Kino-horn,)  demands  honourable  mention.  It  was  not  the  extent 
of  their  property,  but  the  great  force  of  their  character  and  splen- 
dour  of  their  talents,  which  gave  them  such  a  prominent  place  in 
the  history  of  James  V.  and  during  the  regency  of  the  ill-fated 
Mary.  Sir  James  Kirkcaldy,  who  was  Lord  High  Treasurer  of 
Scotland  during  a  part  of  the  reign  of  James  V.,  was  considered 
one  of  the  wisest  and  worthiest  of  the  nation ;  and  few  achieve- 
ments in  war  are  more  brilliant  than  those  performed  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Kirkcaldy,  both  at  Stirling  and  Edinburgh,  when,  after  the 
battle  of  Langside,  he  espoused  the  side  of  the  incarcerated  Queen. 
For  his  holding  the  castle  of  Edinburgh  (of  whi'.th  he  was  gover- 
nor) so  long  against  the  regent  and  the  force  sent  by  Elizabeth 
to  reduce  it,  he,  on  surrendering,  suffered  death  with  his  brother 
at  the  market-cross  of  Edinburgh,  August  3,  1570. 

Mr  John  Scrymgeour,  a  man  remarkable  for  his  piety  and  learn- 
ing, was  minister  of  Kinghorn,  and  was  selected  as  chaplain  to  the 
King  in  1590,  when  his  Majesty  sent  to  Denmark  to  bring  home 
his  Queen.  He  is  enrolled  among  the  Scottish  Worthies  on  account 
of  his  refusal  to  subscribe  the  articles  of  Perth,  and  join  the  modi- 
fied Episcopacy,  which  at  that  time  was  attempted  to  be  introdu- 
ced into  the  Scottish  nation,  and  for  which  he  was  deprived  of  his 
living  at  Kinghorn,  and  obliged  to  retire  to  a  small  house  he  had 
in  Auchterderran,  where  it  is  supposed  he  spent  the  remainder  of 
his  days. 

In  one  of  the  old  records  of  this  parish,  the  signing  of  the  na- 
tional Covenant  in  1590  is  inserted,  and  the  first  name  to  the  deed 
is  that  of  Thomas  Biggar,  minister  of  the  parish,  and  is  followed  in 
beautiful  penmanship  by  Johne  Boswall  of  Balmouto,  and  Johne 
Kirkcaldy  of  Grange.  On  an  old  stone,  still  entire  in  the  churchyard, 
which  had  been  erected  by  the  Sailors'  Community  to  the  memo- 
ry of  Mr  Thomas  Biggar,  we  find  that  he  died  in  1601,  about  ele- 
ven years  after  the  signing  of  the  covenant.  This  is  mentioned 
also  in  the  session  records  of  that  period.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Mr  John  Moncriefe,  a  man  also  of  considerable  eminence  during 
those  stormy  periods  of  our  ecclesiastical  history.  The  accom- 
plished scholar  and  gentleman,  the  late  Professor  Bruce,  who  held 
long  the  patent  with  Sir  James  Hunter  Blair  for  printing  the  Bible 


808 


FIFESHIRE. 


in  Scotland,  and  was  His  Majesty's  Secretary  for  Latin  Records, 
had  his  patrimonial  estate  in  this  parish.* 

Land-owners. —  The  principal  heritors  of  this  parish  are,  the 
Earl  of  Rosslyn  for  the  lands  of  Invertiel,  Tyrie,  South  Piteadie, 
and  South  Glassmount ;  Colonel  Fergusson  of  Raith  for  Easter 
and  Wester  Bal barton,  Easter  and  Wester  Boglilly,  Cauldhame, 
Seafield,  Vicars- Grange,  Grange,  Baidland,  and  other  lands; 
John  Boswell,  Esq.  of  Balmuto  for  the  estate  of  Balmuto ;  Mrs 
O.  T.  Bruce  for  Grangehill  and  other  lands  ;  John  Drysdale,  Esq. 
for  Kilrie  and  North  Piteadie  ;  the  Trustees  of  the  late  Robert 
Philp,  Esq.  of  Edenshead  for  Banchory,  Drinkbetween,  Justine 
lands,  and  other  acres  ;  the  Trustees  of  the  late  Burridge  Purvis, 
Esq.  for  North  Glassmount ;  Robert  Stocks,  Esq.  for  Abden  ; 
the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  for  Inchkeith  ;  Mr  George  Greig  for 
Easter  Balbeardie  ;  the  Trustees  of  the  late  Mr  Greenhill  for  com- 
mon of  Kinghorn  ;  Mr  Shanks  of  Castlerigg  for  acres  near  King- 
horn,  Glammis  Tower,  &c. ;  the  burgh  of  Kinghorn  for  the  Ross 
lands ;  and  a  few  others  whose  property  is  very  limited. 

Parochial  Registers.— The  earliest  register  is  of  baptisms,  com- 
mencing in  1577.  The  session  records  commence  with  some  re- 
gularity in  September  1607,  yet  there  are  earlier  notices  of  the 
proceedings  of  the  session.  We  find  in  one  of  the  volumes,  not 
only  the  parish  signatures  to  the  national  covenant  already  noticed^ 
but  also  a  number  of  special  reasons  recorded  for  a  general  fast  to 
be  held  as  early  as  October  1593.  The  records  of  baptisms  and 
marriages,  and  the  proceedings  of  the  kirk-session,  are  kept  with 
much  regularity  and  fulness  from  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury to  the  present  time. 

Antiquities.—The  rage  for  modern  improvements  here  has  al- 
most swept  away  every  vestige  of  those  ancient  buildings  m  the 
>t.own  of  Kinghorn  which  formerly  distinguished  it  in  its  ecclesias- 
tical and  civil  importance.    St  Leonard's  Tower  was  the  last  re- 
maining edifice  of  this  nature,  which,  subsequent  to  the  Reforma- 
tion, was  converted  into  a  town-house  and  jail.   It  was  a  few  years 
aao  entirely  removed  for  the  erection  of  a  handsome  modern  build- 
ing as  a  town-house  apd  prison.     History,  and  not  stone  w^alls, 
must  tell  us  what  Kinghorn  formerly  was.— The  very  seals,  {Scot- 
tice,  seiches,)  along  the  shore,  now  enjoy  an  absolute  respite  from 
the  conditions  of  the  charter  granted  by  David  L  to  the  Abbacy  of 

.  Patic  Birnie.  tbc  far-famod  fuldlcr,  ought  not  to  be  forgotten  among  the  eu.i- 
^ent  characters  belongin;^  lo  Kinghorn. 


KINGHORN. 


809 


Dunfermline,  that  every  seventh  one  caught  at  Kinghorn  should  be 
sent  to  the  ecclesiastics  of  that  place.* — Except  a  few  human  bones 
dug  up  in  forming  ihe  foundation  for  the  extension  of  St  Leonard's 
spinning  mill,  nothing  has  of  late  years  given  any  indication  that  that 
place  was  formerly  consecrated  ground. — Instead  of  the  deep-ton- 
ed vespers  sounding  for  prayers  from  St  Leonard's  Tower,  there 
is  now  heard  the  sharp  and  enlivening  bell  summoning  the  healthy 
light-hearted  young  people  to  the  spinning  manufactory. — The 
ploughshare  passes  uninterruptedly  over  the  spot  where  stood  the 
grim  stately  walls  of  Glammis  Tower. 

After  Robert  II.  had  given  away  this  royal  residence  to  Sir  John 
Lyon  and  his  successors,  the  Kings  of  Scotland  still  possessed  a 
domicile  in  Kinghorn,  to  which  they  had  recourse  in  crossing  to 
Fife  from  Edinburgh.  In  the  old  orchard  of  Abden,  there  were 
not  long  ago  removed  the  remains  of  a  building,  which  tradition 
declared  belonged  to  the  King,  and  the  road  to  which,  from  the 
shore  or  landing-place,  was  called  the  King's  gate.  This  is  coun- 
tenanced by  the  fact,  that  the  property  of  Abden  belonged  to  the 
Crown ;  and  in  the  ancient  charter  of  this  property,  granted  by 
Cardinal  Beaton  to  Sir  John  Melville,  there  is  a  distinct  reserva- 
tion that  the  King,  in  crossing  to  Kinghorn,  should  enjoy  free  lodg- 
ings, and  the  hospitahty  of  Abden  at  any  time  he  should  require 
it.  And  the  crown  charter  confirming  the  same  to  the  son,  (the 
fother  having  been  executed  for  high  treason  and  his  lands  confis- 
cated,) shows  that  it  continued  Crown  property,  so  that  the  Scot- 
tish monarchs  had  always  a  residence  of  one  kind  or  other  in 
Kinghorn.  The  present  proprietor,  Mr  Stocks,  possesses  both 
charters,— the  one  by  Cardinal  Beaton  has  attached  to  it  the  seal 
of  that  ecclesiastical  dignitary,  as  well  as  that  of  St  Andrews ;  and 
he  holds  it  under  the  same  reservation  which  the  Cardinal  him- 
self, and  his  immediate  successors  did.  It  is  thus  evident  that 
royalty  has  still  a  right  to  this  ancient  privilege,  a  fact  probably  al- 
together unknown  to  the  present  interesting  and  beloved  posses- 
sor of  the  throne  of  these  realms.f    There  are  several  objects  yet 

•  The  present  incumbents  of  Dunfermline  would  fare  but  ill  if  they  depended  on 
any^portion  of  this  grant.     Not  a  phoca  is  now  sought  after,  for  any  purpose  wliat- 

t  The  words  of  the  charter  referring  to  the  above  reservation  are,  "  reservatis  no- 
Dis  nostrisque  regns  successoribus  in  hi.jusmodi  mansione  hospitalite  et  rcsidentia  to- 
tics  quoties  contigent  nobis  ibidem  supervenire  et  declinare  quamdiu  nobis  placluerit 
seu  visum  fenent  nostns  propriis  sumptibus  ac  etiam  pro  solutione  et  prjestatione  no-' 
rltlVih  1"^  continentur  in  antiquis  iifeofamentis  et 

renta  .bus  d.ctarum  terrarum  ac  duplicans,  dictam  feudiHrmam  primO  anno  introitus 

^pi^f^t'uJdlm  Setir  "'""^'""'^  ^''^^''^^  '"'^'^  ^—'^ 


810  fll-ESHIllE. 

remaining  in  the  parish  of  considerable  interest  to  the  antiquarian. 
Seafield  tower  presents  a  striking  feature  on  the  margin  of  the 
shore,  resting  on  one  side  on  a  solid  mass  of  red  sandstone,  and 
guarded  on  the  other  by  the  visible  remains  of  a  fosse  and  draw- 
bridge.   This  was  the  seat  of  an  ancient  family  of  the  name  of 
Moutrie.    In  the  middle  of  a  field  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Tyrie, 
there  stands  an  old  ruin,  the  gable  of  a  building  of  no  great  ex- 
tent, but  which,  from  its  name  and  human  bones  found  around  it, 
was  most  likely  a  chapel  or  place  of  public  worship.    The  people 
call  it  Egsmalee,  an  evident  corruption  of  Eglise  Marie.  Farther 
northwards,  on  the  side  of  the  hill  of  Piteadie,  the  old  castle  of 
that  name  is  very  entire  in  its  ruins.    This  place  was  inhabited 
not  more  than  an  hundred  years  ago.    It  belongs  to  the  Earl  of 
Rosslyn,  and  has  been  in  the  family  of  the  St  Clairs  for  a  long 
period.   There  are  two  obelisks  of  rough  stones  standing  in  a  field 
to  the  west  of  North  Glassmouni  House  ;  (this  place  is  called  by 
Sibbald  Boisvill-Glasmond,)  supposed  to  have  been  erected  im- 
mediately after  the  last  battle  which  was  fought  between  the  Scots 
and  Danes,  to  mark  the  spot  where  some  of  the  Scottish  com- 
manders had  fallen.    A  chapel  had  formerly  been  in  existence  in 
connection  with  this  land.    A  field  to  the  east  of  the  house  still 
bears  the  name  of  the  Chapel-field,  and  it  is  not  long  since  some 
of  the  ruins  of  the  building  were  to  be  seen. 

Modern  Buildings.— Ye^  places  have  undergone  such  a  trans- 
formation during  the  last  thirty  years  as  Kinghorn.    Its  streets 
were  then  almost  impassable,  they  are  now  levelled  and  vvell  pav- 
ed.   Its  public  buildings  were  mean,-they  are  now  good.  lUe 
former  town-house  was  an  ancient  ecclesiastical  building,  the  pre- 
sent town  house  and  jail  is  of  Gothic  architecture,  which  cost  the 
■  burah  L.  2500.    Notwithstanding,  however,  its  beauty,  strengtli, 
and^ost,  its  jail  can  only  now  be  used  as  a  lock-up  house,  and  it 
does  not  prevent  the  inhabitants  of  the  burgh  from  being  assessed  for 
the  erecUon  of  prisons  in  other  parts  of  the  county.    Tl.e  schoo  - 
house  was  formerly  a  plain  unpretending  building ;  the  school- 
h  use  now,  and  the  grounds  adjoining  would  do  honour  to  the  ac- 
ropolis.   The  spinning-mill  adjoining  the  town  1-"-^-  ^^^^^^^ 
.one  of  late  great  improvements,  and  has  been  much  enlarged. 
This  improvement  has'taken  place  since  it  came  mto  the  posses- 
sTon  of  the  present  public  spirited  proprietors,  the  Messrs  Swano 
Ki  kcaldy     Its  extensive  front,  and  well  kept  shrubbery  make  t 
f  grea  o  narnent  to  the  place     The  church  is  the  only  public 


m 


KINGHORN. 


811 


building,  which  remains  in  much  the  same  state  as  it  has  done  since 
1774,  when  it  was  rebuilt. 

Mansion-Houses. — Besides  the  house  of  Abden,  a  plain  old  grey 
building,  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Kinghorn,  and  commanding 
a  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  Forth,  the  mansion-house  of 
Balmuto  is  almost  the  only  other  building  in  the  parish  worthy  of 
the  name.  Its  square  tower  is  of  great  antiquity,  but  the  chief 
accommodation  is  of  modern  architecture.  It  is  well  sheltered  by 
the  finely  wooded  grounds  immediately  surrounding,  and  by  the 
hills  to  the  north  and  south.  The  flower  garden  and  conserva- 
tory mark  the  taste  of  the  proprietor. 

III.  — Population.* 

The  population  in  1755  was      .  2389 

1793,       .  ]768 

1801,       .  2308 

1811,       .  2204 

1821,      .  2443 

1831,      .  2.079 

1841,       .  2934 
At  the  last  census  there  were  1302  males — 1632  females. 
Inhabited  houses,  .  409 

Uninhabited  do.,  ,  J4 
Building,         .  .  2 

Number  of  families,  .  .         675_about  4^  to  each  family. 

In  the  town  of  Kmghorn,  .  155.5  ' 

Landward  and  agricultural,  .  811 

Village  of  West  Bridge  or  Invertiel,  568 

There  are  no  resident  heritors  in  this  parish.  Out  of  675  fa- 
milies in  the  parish,  about  610  belong  to  the  labouring  classes, 
leaving  only  65,  consisting  of  farmers,  shopkeepers,  and  proprietors 
of  houses,  who  cannot  be  classed  among  those  who  depend  solely 
on  their  manual  labour  for  subsistence. 

The  chief  cause  for  the  increase  of  the  population  since  182], 
is  the  extension  of  the  flax  spinning  mills,  which  has  brought  a 
considerable  number  of  strangers  to  the  place  for  employment. 
Females  are  chiefly  employed  in  spinning,  which  accounts  for  the 
greater  proportion  of  females  above  males  in  this  place. 

There  are  three  or  four  fatuous  persons  in  this  parish,  but  none 
insane.    There  is  one  deaf  and  dumb. 

IV.  —  Industry. 
Agriculture.-The  rental  of  the  landward  parish  is  about 

i..l3,000.t     There  are  about  4000  Scots  acres,  or  5030  im- 
perial.   Of  these  there  are, 

.  "  The  population  of  this  parish  must  have  been  as  great  at  the  close  of  tho  iRyh 
tTer^Oand  900  Vam'es^'^  '"'^  '""^  Co've^nL'hltSitfdt i  £ 

lies  and°SrTbtblX7rm  rmm'^'nt^^r^"^''""  °^  ^'"^  '''''  ''^'^ 

t  By  the  last  valuation,  the  grossrental  of  the  heritable  property  in  the  parish  and 


812  FIFESHIRE. 


Cultivated,  .  .        3660  Scots  acres. 

Uucultivated,  .  •  70 

Planted,       .  .  .170 

Thirty-five  acres  may  be  advantageously  cultivated,  that  are  in- 
cluded in  the  170  uncultivated. 

Produce. — The  produce  ot  the  parish  may  be  stated  as  follows  ; 

Scots  acres. 

800,  oats,  from  10  to  11  bolls  per  acre. 
400,  barley,  from  7  to  9  do. 
400,  wheat,  from  7  to  9  do. 

400,  turnips,  L.6  to  L.8  per  acre,  consumed  on  the  farm. 
823,  potatoes,  L.12  to  L.14  per  acre. 
430,  hay,  L.6  per  acre. 
863,  pasture,    L.3,  lOs.  per  acre. 
40  occasionally  cultivated. 

3660 

Jlent. — The  rent  of  land  in  this  parish  varies  from  L.J,  10s.  to 
L.6  per  acre.    The  average  is  about  L  3,  10s.  per  acre. 

Stock. — There  are  few  cattle  reared  in  this  parish.  Those  that 
are  reared  are  of  the  Fife  and  short-horned  breed,  with  crosses 
between  them.  Although  there  are  few  reared,  yet  a  great  num- 
ber, brought  from  other  counties,  are  fattened  in  this  parish,  and 
from  the  attention  paid  to  their  condition  and  appearance,  fre- 
quently bring  high  prices,  L.25  and  L.30  being  no  uncommon 
price  for  them  per  head. 

Much  attention  has  of  late  been  given  to  sheep  feeding.  A 
considerable  number  are  now  kept,  chiefly  half-bred  Cheviot,  and 
black-faced.  These,  like  the  cattle,  are  generally  imported  from 
other  places. 

Few  parishes  have  undergone  more  improvements  than  this  in 
draining  and  trenching,  or  can  exhibit  such  an  activity  and  atten- 
tion in  the  application  of  all  recent  discoveries  to  bring  the  land  to 
the  highest  state  of  cultivation  and  productiveness.  The  farm- 
buildings  and  inclosures  are  in  general  very  good,  and  show  both 
the  good  taste  of  the  tenant,  and  the  encouragement  of  the  land- 
lord.   The  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years. 

Manufactures.— only  manufacture  carried  on  in  Kinghorn 
is  the  spinning  of  flax.  The  raw  material  is  imported,  and  it  un- 
dergoes here  all  the  processes  from  the  dressing  of  the  flax,  up  to 
the  final  preparation  of  the  yarn  and  thread,  for  the  loom  and 

other  purposes.  ,  .  ^ 

There  is  an  extensive  bleaching  field  at  Nether  Tyne,  about 

beyond  the  boundary  line  of  the  burgh,  including  feu-duties,  is  L.  10,684,  3s.  94d. 
The  rental  within  the  burgh  boundary  is  about  L.2000. 


KINGHORN. 


813 


one  and  a-half  mile  to  the  eastward,  belonging  to  the  proprietors 
of  St  Leonard's  mill,  which  enables  them  to  prepare  the  thread 
and  yarn  in  a  purely  white  state  for  the  market.  These  gentle- 
men employ  daily  at  their  mill  200  females,  64  males,  flax-dres- 
sers, 21  mechanics,  or  machine-makers,  and  12  males  who 
superintend  and  have  other  duties  in  the  mill.  About  70  are  em- 
ployed in  the  bleaching  of  yarn.  There  are  two  other  mills  in 
Kinghorn,  at  both  of  which  are  employed  about  130  females,  and 
50  males,  including  36  flax-dressers.  There  are  thus  connected 
with  the  spinning  mills,  330  females  ;  1 37  males  ;  70  of  both  sexes 
in  the  bleaching  department;  total,  537. 

Girls  above  fourteen  years  of  age,  ^vho  are  spinners,  earn  from 
4s.  to  6s.  per  week.    Mechanics  have  from  12s.  to  L.  I  per  week. 

Flax-dressers  are  paid  by  the  hundred-weight  of  dressed  flax  ; 
they  get  a  fair  price  for  their  work,  and  can  make  a  good  livelihood 
fully  employed. 

Navigation. — Except  the  steamers  which  ply  on  the  ferry,  be- 
tween Pettycur  and  Newhaven,  and  a  few  half-tide  boats  of  forty 
tons  burden,  which  carry  goods  and  cattle  to  and  from  Leith,  there 
is  only  one — a  coaster  of  about  seventy  tons  burden,  which  now 
belongs  to  Kinghorn.  Occasionally  vessels  of  considerable  bur- 
den land  their  flax  cargoes  from  the  Baltic,  and  other  places  at 
Pettycur  harbour,  and  a  few  cargoes  of  potatoes  are  shipped  an- 
nually there  for  the  London  market.  There  are  a  few  small  boats 
belonging  to  individuals  in  the  town,  which,  during  the  summer 
months,  are  employed  in  fishing. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
There  is  no  town  in  the  parish  except  the  burgh  of  Kinghorn. 
The  population,  as  has  been  already  stated,  is  1555.  Its  trade  has 
been  diversified  and  fluctuating.  While  basking  under  the  smiles 
of  royalty,  it  had  an  ample  business  in  supplying  the  necessary  ar- 
ticles for  the  Court,  and  gentry,  with  their  retainers.  But  when 
Glammis  Castle  began  to  decay,  and  the  old  nobility  and  gentry 
died  out,  or  ceased  to  live  upon  their  properties  in  the  parish,  a 
great  change  came  over  the  aff"airs  of  Kinghorn.  Still  it  pos- 
sessed a  constant  and  advantageous  traffic  from  the  proximity  of 
Pettycur,  which  was  the  principal  ferry  between  Fife  and  Mid- Lo- 
thian. In  the  absence  of  steamers  and  stage-coaches,  the  town 
was  usually  crowded  with  passengers,  waiting  for  fair  weather  to 
allow  the  boats  to  set  sail.    The  whole  town  on  these  occasions 


814 


FIFEKSHIRE. 


was  wont  to  be  an  inn ;  every  house  that  could  well  accommodate, 
strangers  was  in  requisition  ;  and  the  demand  for  saddle-horses  was 
so  great,  that,  in  the  recollection  of  some  old  men,  not  less  than 
sixty  belonged  to  Kinghorn.  All  this  passed  naturally  away  by 
the  introduction  of  steamers  on  the  ferry,  and  the  establishment 
of  stage-coaches,  with  all  their  expedition  of  conveyance  and  accu- 
racy of  hours.  This  deficiency  of  bustle  and  traffic  in  the  town 
has  been  more  than  compensated  by  the  erection'of  the  spinning- 
mills,  upon  which  the  inhabitants  now  principally  depend  for  em- 
ploymenfand  subsistence. 

From  the  period  when  the  privileges  of  a  royal  burgh  were  con- 
ferred upon  Kinghorn  by  David  I.,  it  had  been  managed  by  a 
town-council  and  magistrates,  up  to  Michaelmas  1841,  when,  upon 
the  day  on  which,  by  the  set  of  the  burgh,  or  terms  of  its  charter, 
the  magistrates  ought  to  have  been  chosen,  a  quorum  could  not 
be  mustered,  and  in  consequence  of  this  it  was.  disfranchised. 
Certain  parties  applied  to  the  Court  of  Session  for  managers,  and 
the  court  appointed  three  respectable  gentlemen,  resident  in  King- 
horn, to  preside  over  its  affairs,  without  being  invested,  however, 
with  judicial  authority.    The  absence  of  this  authority  has  been 
felt  to  be  no  great  evil.    The  residence  of  one  of  the  county  po- 
lice has  been  found  quite  sufficient  to  check  any  disorderly  con- 
duct, and  to  maintain  a  surveillance  over  the  public-houses  and 
spirit-shops  within  the  burgh.    And  the  change  in  the  manage- 
ment has  had  this  material  advantage,  that  the  feelings  of  partisan- 
ship and  partiality  which  naturally  gathered  around  a  system  of 
some  hundred  years'  growth,  and  which  became  every  day  less 
agreeable  to  the  wants  and  wishes  of  the  community,  have  now, 
and  we  trust  for  ever,  passed  away* 

Means  of  Communication.— The  long  establishment  of  a  post- 
office  in  the  burgh,  the  constant  and  regular  communication  to 
Edinburgh  by  means  of  the  Ferry,  and  the  daily  coaches  which 
pass  through  the  town  on  their  route  to  and  from  the  metropolis, 
present  the  greatest  facilities  for  intercourse  with  all  parts  of  the 
kingdom. 

In  whatever  article  of  supply  Kinghorn  may  be  deficient  tor 
its  inhabitants,  there  is  an  abundance  to  be  found  in  Kirkcaldy, 

•  The  bur<rh  of  Kins^hom,  with  a  few  others  in  Scotland,  was  excluded  from  the 
onerat ion  of  the  Municipal  Reform  Bill,  which  gave  a  new  and  more  popular  law 
for  the  choTce  of  magistrates  and  councillors.  Up  to  the  t.me  of  Us.disfranch.se- 
ment,  it  remained  in  the  old  close  burgh  system. 


KINGHOUN. 


815 


only  three  miles  distant,  which  opens  a  most  extensive  market 
for  both  home  and  foreign  productions. 

Harbours. — The  old  harbour  of  Kinghorn  is  of  little  use,  save 
for  the  accommodation  of  fishing-boats.  The  harbour  at  Petty- 
cur  is  in  good  condition,  and  affords  a  convenient  landing  place  for 
passengers,  goods,  and  cattle,  when  the  vessels,  by  the  state  of  the 
tide,  are  able  to  get  along-side  of  the  quay.  The  harbour  and 
shore  dues,  with  anchorages,  have  hitherto  yielded  not  less  than 
L.140  annually  to  the  burgh  funds. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  and  burial-ground  are  close 
upon  the  sea  shore,  near  to  the  old  harbour.  The  situation  is  very 
inconvenient,  even  for  the  town's-people ;  the  street  that  leads 
down  to  it  from  the  main  or  high  street  is  long,  narrow,  and 
steep.  It  is,  besides,  very  frequently  wet  and  dirty.  For  the  in- 
habitants of  the  landward  parish  the  site  is  as  bad  as  could  be 
chosen.  It  is  nearly  seventy  years  since  the  church  was  rebuilt. 
The  walls  are  still  tolerably  good,  but  the  seats  are  old  and  rickety, 
and  from  the  church-yard  standing  above  the  level  of  the  floor, 
(in  some  places  nearly  five  feet,)  the  pavement  and  walls  are 
damp,  and  the  atmosphere  is  often  close  and  heavy.  This  latter 
evil  has  been  greatly  removed  by  the  erection  of  two  stoves.  It 
can  accommodate  about  700.  One-half  of  the  sittings  are  ap- 
propriated to  the  landward  parishioners,  and  the  other  half  to  the 
town's  people.  There  have  been  very  few  seat  rents  drawn  by  the 
burgh,  and  none  by  the  landward  heritors.  A  number  of  old  seats, 
under  the  sailors'  gallery  (this  aisle  is  of  a  more  ancient  date  than 
the  rest  of  the  church)  were  for  a  long  period  set  apart  for  the 
school  children,  and  have  been  latterly  occupied  by  the  scholars 
enjoying  the  benefit  of  Mr  Philp's  charity. 

The  manse  is  hard  by  the  church,  and  is  in  good  repair,  having 
been  built  in  1817.  The  glebe  is  below  the  legal  measurement, 
but  it  was  an  excambion  for  the  old  glebe  near  Vicarsgrange,  and 
was  considered  at  the  time  an  advantageous  exchange  for  the  in- 
cumbent. Its  value  is  about  L.  18  yearly.  The  stipend  is  17 
chalders,  half  meal,  half  barley,  paid  according  to  the  Fife  fiars. 
There  is  a  poor  grass  glebe  along  the  shore,  which  is  rented  at 
L.l,  10s.  annually. 

There  is  a  quoad  sacra  church  built  on  the  eastern  boundary 
of  this  parish,  in  the  village  of  Invertiel,  or  Westbridge.  It  is 
seated  for  800.  A  portion  of  this  parish,  containing  a  population 
of  760,  and  a  part  of  the  adjoining  parish  of  Abbotshall,  were  al- 


816 


FIFESHIRE. 


located  by  the  Presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy  to  this  new  church.  The 
minister  is  paid  from  the  seat  rents,  and  the  collections  made 
at  the  church  doors. 

A  Burgher  Dissenting  chapel  has  existed  in  the  town  for  up- 
wards of  sixty  years.  The  minister  is  paid  on  the  voluntary  prin- 
ciple, and  of  course  his  stipend  varies. 

There  are  also  a  few  Anabaptists,  who  meet  together  for  wor- 
ship. 

There  are  about  700  communicants  in  the  parish  belonging  to 
the  Established  Church  of  Scotland.  About  500  of  these  belong 
tp  the  parish  church,  and  the  remaining  200  attend  at  Inver- 
tiel  new  church,  and  at  Auchtertool  and  Abbotshall  churches, — 
these  being  more  contiguous  to  some  portions  of  the  landward  pa- 
rish than  the  church  at  Kinghorn. 

There  are  165  communicants  in  the  parish  belonging  to  the 
Burgher  meeting-house,  and  nearly  100  more  in  communion  with 
other  Dissenting  congregations  in  Kirkcaldy  and  Burntisland. 

The  attendance  on  the  ordinances  of  religion  at  the  parish 
church  is  full  and  regular. 

A  Female  Bible  and  Missionary  Society  collects  annually  at  an 
average,  L.6,  10s.  And  the  collections  at  the  parish  church, 
with  parochial  contributions  for  religious  and  charitable  purposes, 
average  L.20  per  annum.  Since  December,  (four  months  ago), 
there  have  been  L.16  collected  for  coals  to  the  poor;  for  the  four 
schemes  of  the  church,  L.IO,  16s.,  besides  L.6  from  an  indivi- 
dual for  church  extension,  to  aid  the  supplementary  fund.  This 
was  in  addition  to  L.14  formerly  given  for  the  same  object. 

Education.— The  burgh  and  parochial  school  of  Kinghorn  is 
an  object  which  attracts  attention,  on  account  of  its  equipments 
and  accommodation  as  a  seminary  for  youth.  It  is  a  handsome 
building  at  the  west  end  of  Kinghorn,  standing  within  an  enclosure 
tastefully  laid  out  with  shrubs  and  plants.  There  is  also  a  bowl- 
ing-green, besides  the  play  ground,  with  gymnastic  poles  for  the 
children. 

In  addition  to  the  large  room  allotted  to  the  parochial  teacher, 
there  are  two  smaller  ones,  well  fitted  up,— one  for  an  infant 
school,  and  the  other  for  drawing  classes.  This  apartment  is  fre- 
quently used  by  the  parochial  teacher  for  monitors'  classes.  In 
the  centre  of  the  building,  there  is  a  museum  well  furnished  with 
good  specimens  of  mineralogy,  geology,  zoology,  conchology,  and 
anatomy.   There  are  also  a  few  good  casts  from  the  busts  of  emi- 


KINGHORN. 


817 


hent  men,  such  as  Sir  Isaac  Newon,  FrankUn,   Watt,  Sir  W. 
Scott,  and  others ;  and  several  stucco  casts  from  the  frieze  of  the 
Parthenon,  taken  from  the  Elgin  marbles  in  the  British  Museum. 
The  school  is  taught  on  the  most  approved  principles.    The  at- 
tendance of  pupils  averages  about  120.    A  wide  range  of  instruc- 
tion is  afforded  them.    Besides  the  usual  branches  of  English  and 
grammar,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  book-keeping,  mathematics, 
pure  and  practical,  French,  Latin,  and  Greek,  the  children  are 
taught  the  uses  of  the  various  specimens  which  the  museum  pre- 
sents to  their  youthful  inquiry,  and  thus  they  receive  an  initiatory 
knowledge  of  geology,  mineralogy,  &c. 

The  salary  is  L.25.  The  school  fees  for  each  scholar  average 
18s.  per  annum,  and  amount  to  L.100  annually.  The  teacher 
has  neither  house  nor  garden,  the  arrangement  made  for  the  re- 
tirement of  the  former  teacher  having  considerably  crippled  the 
means  of  the  burgh  for  providing  suitable  accommodation  for  his 
successor.  , 

There  is  another  school  in  the  town,  attended  on  an  average 
by  50  children,  who  are  taught  the  elementary  branches  of  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  It  is  not  endowed,  and  the  teacher  has 
no  remuneration  except  the  school  fees. 

There  is  also  a  female  and  infant  school ;  the  average  number 
attending  both  is  about  80.  A  sewing-school  for  the  girls  is  now 
in  full  operation. 

There  is  an  efficient  school  in  the  village  of  Invertiel,  where 
the  usual  elementary  branches  are  taught,  and  also  practical  ma-  ' 
thematics.  It  is  attended  by  70.  A  school-house  is  provided 
for  the  teacher,  but  no  salary  beyond  his  school  fees.  The  chil- 
dren in  the  northern  parts  of  the  parish  are  obliged,  on  account 
of  the  distance  from  Kinghorn,  to  attend  the  schools  in  Auchter- 
tool. 

Sabbath  school  teaching  has  long  been  vigorously  carried  on 
here  for  mstructing  the  youth  in  the  principles  of  religion,  and 
traming  them  to  its  practice.  The  parochial  teacher  has  one 
under  his  charge,  attended  by  125  ;*  and  the  minister  has  had 
mi  adult  class  for  several  years,  which  he  has  lately  taught  on  the 
Ihursday  evenmgs,  attended  on  an  average  by  60.    This  class 

wbl.?hiroU,ef  ch^n'r'''  r^'r"'^  '^^^  ^^''^       '°  the  districts  iu 

SaSh  eve  in.  s  S  w H  '        ^'^'^''^'^'^d,  L.IO  to  each  for  the  instruction  of  a 
oar)uatn  evening  school,  bssidcs  a  similar  sum  for  house-rcnt, 

FIFE.  3^, 


818 


FITESHIRE. 


is  exclusively  for  females,  and  those  especially  who  are  employed 
in  the  mills. 

The  Dissenting  minister,  the  Rev.  James  Hardie,  has  also  been 
most  industrious  in  this  department.  He  has  long  had  a  Sabbath 
evening  class,  which  has  been  well  attended. 

Library. — There  is  a  library  kept  in  the  museum  by  the  paro- 
chial teacher,  and  another  subscription  one  in  the  town.  The 
minister  obtained,  a  few  years  ago,  a  good  selection  of  books  from 
the  Tract  Society  in  London,  which  have  been  well  read  by  the 
young  people  attending  his  class,  and  others  who  chose  to  enjoy 
the  privilege. 

Charitable  Institutions. — The  late  Robert  Philp,  Esq.  of  Edens- 
head,  left  his  property  for  the  endowment  of  schools  ;  one-eighth 
part  of  which  was  appropriated  for  the  instruction  and  clothing  of 
50  children  in  Kinghorn,  and  the  residue  of  the  fund  to  be  given 
to  the  children  in  such  proportions  as  the  managers  of  the  charity 
shall  direct,  "  the  better  to  enable  the  children  on  leaving  the 
school  to  begin  the  world."  The  children  enjoying  the  charity 
attend  the  parochial  school,  and  are  taught  all  the  branches  which 
the  other  children  receive  in  the  course  of  instruction. 

Henry  Bursary. — The  late  Rev.  James  Henry,  minister  of  this 
parish,  left  L.yOO  to  found  a  bursary,  to  support  a  young  man 
during  four  years  of  his  philosophical  studies  at  the  United  Col- 
lege of  St  Salvador  and  St  Leonard,  in  the  University  of  St  An- 
drews, the  interest  of  which,  at  five  per  cent.,  yields  to  the  bursar 
L.15  a-year.  The  right  of  electing  the  bursar  is  vested  in  the 
kirk-session  of  Kinghorn,  the  presbytery  of  Kirkcaldy,  and  the 
town-council  (now  the  managers)  of  this  burgh.  These  bodies 
are  appointed  by  the  trust-deed  to  send  their  respective  delegates 
to  meet  together,  by  previous  appointment  of  the  minister  of 
Kinghorn,  in  the  session-house  there,  and  then  to  make  choice, 
by  plurality  of  voices,  of  a  young  man  to  enjoy  the  bursary  for  the 
time  being. 

Savinys'  Bank. — There  is  no  saving  bank  in  the  parish,  but 
there  is  one  in  Kirkcaldy,  which  is  of  great  advantage  to  the  dis- 
trict, and  in  it  deposits  to  a  considerable  amount  are  lodged  by 
the  sober  and  working  classes. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  poor,  who 
receive  regular  aliment  from  the  parochial  funds,  for  the  last  se- 
ven years,  is  39,  and  the  weekly  sum  granted  to  each  varies  from 
8d.  to  2s.  6d.    There  are  occasional  poor  besides  these,  who  ro 


KINGHORN. 


819 


ceive  half-yearly  distributions  at  the  winter  and  summer  sacra- 
ments. The  average  amount  for  their  relief  is  L.12I,  19s.  The 
church  door  collections  have  averaged,  for  the  last  ten  years,  L.30. 
Voluntary  contributions,  supplied  by  the  heritors,  have  averaged 
L.70  per  annum,  and  the  interest  on  L.550  at  four  per  cent.,  left 
to  the  kirk-session  for  the  poor  by  the  late  Rev.  James  Henry, 
including  L.lOO  left  by  the  Rev.  Mr  Shanks  of  Castlerigg  for  the 
same  object,  after  deducting  stamp-receipt,  amounts  to  L.21,  19s. 
making  in  all  the  above  sum  of  L.121,  19s.  annually. 

There  is  no  disposition  on  the  part  of  the  poor  to  abstain  from 
seeking  parochial  relief.  There  is  an  opinion  gaining  ground, 
that  the  heritors  of  the  parish  are  obliged  to  supply  the  wants  of 
the  poor,  which  is  affecting  considerably  both  the  church  door 
collections,  and  the  independent  feeling  which  at  one  time  had 
such  a  strong  hold  of  our  Scottish  peasantry. 

Prisons. — There  is  a  strong  and  secure  prison  in  the  town- 
house,  but  there  is  not  a  prisoner  in  it,  and  it  will  not  be  of  much 
use  now,  except  for  a  lock-up-house,  as  the  prison  for  punishment 
for  this  district  is  in  Kirkcaldy. 

Fairs.— There  is  a  fair  marked  in  the  Almanack  for  Kinghorn, 
but  there  has  not  of  late  been  a  sweety  stall  erected  on  the  street, 
on  the  day  on  which  it  is  said  to  be  held. 

Ale-houses. — There  is  one  good  inn  at  Pettycur,  and  there  are 
in  the  burgh  nine  spirit-shops  and  ale-houses. 

Fuel. — The  fuel  chiefly  consumed  here  is  coal,  which  costs 
about  9s.  a  ton,  and  is  driven  in  carts  from  Lochgelly,  Cluny,  and 
other  collieries,  at  an  average  distance  of  eight  miles. 

Inchkeith — This  striking  island,  lying  in  mid-channel  between 
Kinghorn  and  Leith,  was,  soon  after  the  Reformation  in  Scotland, 
annexed  ecclesiastically  to  the  parish  of  Kinghorn.  *  It  is  up- 
wards of  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  it  varies  in  breadth,  being  nar- 
row towards  the  south,  but  widening  and  increasing  also  in  height 
as  It  approaches  towards  the  north.  At  its  highest  elevation,°on 
which  the  light-house  is  built,  it  is  180  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea. 

It  has  several  springs  of  the  purest  water,  and  is  rich  both  in 
Its  botanical  and  geological  productions.  The  soil  is  excellent, 
where,  from  the  nature  of  the  surface,  it  can  be  cultivated,  and 
the  pasture  has  long  been  esteemed  peculiarly  nutritious  for  cattle. 

Records  of  Presbytery,  Kirkcaldy. 


820 


FlFESHIRIi. 


There  are  many  rabbits  on  the  island,  and  its  shores  are  well 
known  to  the  Bshermen  as  abounding  with  fish  and  oysters,  and 
other  kinds  of  shell-fish. 

The  island  was  conferred  by  Malcolm  II.,  in  1010,  upon  the 
first  of  the  Noble  family  of  Keith,  as  a  reward  for  his  valour  at 
the  battle  of  Barry.  From  this  family  it  received  its  name.  It 
subsequently  fell  to  the  Crown,  as  it  was  included  in  the  grant  of 
Glammis  Tower  and  the  lands  of  Kinghorn  to  Lord  Glammis, 
The  Strathmore  family  retained  it  till  1649,  when  it  was  sold  to 
Sir  John  Scott  of  Scotstarvit,  for  the  purpose,  it  would  appear,  of 
establishing  a  fishery  upon  it.  After  passing  into  the  hands  of 
various  proprietors,  it  ultimately  became  the  property  of  the  Buc- 
eleuch  family.  His  Grace,  the  present  representative  of  that 
distinguished  family,  is,  in  virtue  of  this  property,  an  heritor  of 
the  parish  of  Kinghorn. 

The  purposes  to  which  this  beautiful  island  has  been  appro- 
priated are  varied  and  important.    It  became  a  military  station  of 
great  consequence  to  the  contending  parties  during  the  stoi^y 
periods  of  Mary  of  Guise  and  her  unfortunate  daughter,  and  ot 
Charles  I.    A  part  of  the  wall,  showing  the  strength  and  nature 
of  its  fortifications,  is  still  to  be  seen.    James  IV.  is  said  to  have 
made  it  the  scene  of  an  experiment  to  discover  the  original  lan- 
o-uacre  of  mankind,  by  sending  thither  two  infants  under  the  care 
of  a  deaf  and  dumb  nurse  ;  but  the  result  of  the  trial  has  never 
been  recorded.    At  an  earlier  period  (1497),  the  island  was,  by 
order  of  the  King,  made  an  asylum  for  the  reception  of  persons  m 
Edinburgh  who  were  seized  with  a  contagious  disorder  "  calht  the 

grandgore."  , ,  •  ,  • 

Very  difi-erent  is  now  the  purpose  to  which  Inchkeith  is  appro- 
nriated.  In  1803,  it  was  selected  for  the  establishment  of  a  light- 
house, on  account  of  its  great  importance  to  the  navigation  of  the 
Forth  ;  and  the  first  beacon-light  appeared  from  it  on  the  evening 
of  the  1st  September  1804.    Since  that  time  it  has  undergone 
various  improvements.    In  1815,  it  was  changed  from  being  a 
stationary  light  to  a  revolving  one,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  fixed 
light  erected  on  the  Isle  of  May.    But  the  greatest  improvement 
upon  the  apparatus  was  made  in  1834,  when,  instead  of  seven  re- 
flectors revolving,  each  with  its  own  lamp  in  the  cavity  or  centre 
of  the  reflector,  there  is  now  one  fixed  burner,  around  which  there 
vevolves  a  heptagon,  having  on  each  side  a  perpendicular  lens  ol 
lar.re  size  and  great  power,  which  concentrates  the  light  at  the 


DUNFERMLINE. 


821 


focus  of  each  to  a  dazzling  brilliancy.  This  heptagon  performs, 
by  a  beautifully  constructed  machine,  an  entire  revolution  around 
the  burner,  or  fixed  light,  in  the  course  of  seven  minutes,  which 
causes  the  lapse  of  one  minute  between  the  concentrated  light 
passing  through  the  centre  of  one  lens  till  it  again  passes  through 
the  centre  of  another.  Hence  the  alternations  of  brilliancy  and 
dimness  in  the  light,  appearing  to  every  eye  around  the  whole 
horizon. 

There  are  two  families  who  constantly  reside  on  the  island, — 
the  principal  keeper  of  the  light-house  and  his  assistant,  who  are 
very  comfortably  lodged  within  the  building  which  has  been  erected 
for  the  light.  Everything  connected  with  this  establishment  is  in 
the  most  complete  order,  being  under  the  skilful  superintendence 
of  Mr  Robert  Stevenson,  Civil-Engineer. 

January  1843. 


PARISH  OF  DUNFERMLINE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIEE. 

THE  REV.  PETER  CHALMERS,  A.  M.,  MINISTER  OP 
FIRST  CHARGE. 

Second  charge  at  present  vacant. 


!• — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Situation  and  Height.— Tn^  town  of  Dunfermline  is  situated  in 
latitude  56°  5'  4"  north  ;  longitude  3°  27'  18"  west  from  Green.- 
wich  (station.  Abbey  Church) ;  sixteen  miles  north-west  of  Edin- 
burgh ;  43  north-east  of  Glasgow ;  21  east-south-east  of  Stirling; 
29  south  of  Perth ;  1 1  south-west  of  Kinross  ;  30  south-west  of 
Cupar,  the  county  town;  and  12  west  south-west  of  Kirkcaldy. 
It  is  2  miles  7  furlongs  north  of  the  Frith,  at  Limekilns,  in  the 
parish ;  3  miles  3  furlongs  ditto  at  Rosyth  Castle ;  and  5^  miles 
north-west  of  North  Queensferry. 

A^ame— The  word  Dunfermline,  locally  pronounced  Dumfer- 
line,  or  vulgarly  Dumfarline,  is  of  Celtic  origin.  Dun  signifies  a 
heap,  hill,  tower,  castle ;/(«>e  denotes  a  watch  or  guard;  and  linne, 
a  pool,a  pond,  and  also  a  waterfall  or  cataract;  or  loin,  a  little  stream 


822 


I'IFESHIRE. 


or  rivulet.    Hence  Dun-fair  linne  or  loin  will  mean,  The  Fort,  or 
Castle,  which  commands  the  pool  or  stream, — or  shortly.  The 
Watch-tower  of  or  upon  the  stream.    This  is  thought  the  most 
simple  derivation,  and  most  agreeable  to  the  Gaelic  idiom,  and 
therefore  is  preferable  to  another,  the  more  common,  and  also 
quite  correct  one,  which  makes  Dun  and  linne  or  loin  as  above, 
and^ar,  crooked  or  winding,  so  that  Dun-Jiar-linne  or  /oiw,  will 
signify.  The  Castle  upon  the  crooked  or  curved  pool  or  winding 
stream.    Both  these  etymologies  are  suitable  to  the  locality  from 
which  it  is  most  probable  the  name  was  taken,  the  tower  or  resi- 
dence of  King  Malcolm  III.  being  situated  upon  a  mount  in  Pit- 
tencrieff  Glen,  on  the  west  side  of  the  church,  around  which  a  little 
stream  winds. 

The  word,  Dunfermline,  was  anciently  written  Dunfermelyn, 
Dunfermelyne,  Dunfermling,  Dunfermlyng,  Dwnfermling,  Dom- 
fermeling,  Dounfranelin,  and  Dunfermlis ;  and  in  Latin,  Dunum 
Fermilinum,  Dunum  Fermelini,  Fermelinodunum,  Fermalinodu- 
num,  Fermilodunensis,  and  Fermilodunum.    This  last  mode  of 
writing  the  name,  appears  on  the  present  common  seal  of  the 
burgh,  the  armorial  bearing  of  which  is  a  tower  or  fort,  supported 
by  two  lions.    Around  the  device  is  a  circle,  on  which  are  inscrib- 
ed the  words  sigillvm  civitatis  t?ermilodvni.    In  the  ancient 
seal  of  the  burgh,  which  has  been  long  lost,  but  some  impressions 
of  which  remain,  there  were  around  the  same  arms  two  circles,  m 
the  exterior  of  which  were  engraved  the  words  just  quoted,  with 
the  name  of  the  town,  spelled  fermeloduni,  and  the  interior, 
the  words  esto  rupes  inaccessa.    On  the  reverse  side  was  the 
figure  of  a  lady,  holding  a  sceptre,  and  on  each  side  an  inverted 
sword,  handle  downwards,  surrounded  by  the  words  margareta 
regina  scotorum.    All  these  legends  are  in  Roman  capitals. 

The  arms  of  the  burgh  evidently  refer  to  the  origin  of  the 
town,  and  show  what  has  been  the  prevailing  opinion  as  to  the 
derivation  of  its  name.  For  there  is  a  peninsulated  eminence  in 
Pittencrieff  Glen,  as  already  noticed,  close  by  the  town,  of  about 
seventy  feet  in  height,  and  very  steep,  rugged,  and  rocky  on  the 
north  side,  on  which  stood  a  tower  commonly  called  Kinff  Mal- 
colm Canmore's  Tower,  or  his  residence  at  Dunfermline,  and  pro- 
bably built  by  him.  The  name  of  his  Queen  was  Margaret, 
afterwards  canonized,  and  named  St  Margaret.  A  small  coarse 
fratrment  of  two  walls  of  this  tower,  strongly  cemented  with 
lime  mixed  evidently  with  sea  sand,  from  the  quantity  of  shell 


DUNFERMLINE. 


823 


imbedded  in  it,  still  remains,  very  properly  preserved  by  the  pre- 
sent proprietor,  James  Hunt,  Esq.,  and  which  must  be  now  nearly 
800  years  old.  Around  the  base  of  this  little  hill,  there  winds  a 
rivulet,  named  the  Back-burn  or  Tour  (Tower)  bwn  ;  and  from 
the  sides  and  summit  of  the  hill,  as  well  as  through  the  adjacent 
deep  and  narrow  glen,  there  rises  some  very  stately  and  aged  trees. 
The  hill  or  mount  is  named  from  the  building  erected  on  it,  T/ie 
Tower-hill,  and  about  a  hundred  yards  south-east  of  it  in  the  glen, 
are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Palace  of  Dunfermline,  of  which  no- 
tice will  afterwards  be  taken.  The  whole  scenery  is  exceedingly 
picturesque  and  romantic,  the  admiration  of  all  strangers. 

Extent  and  Boundaries. — The  territorial  extent  of  the  parish  is 
very  great,  and  its  figure  irregular.  Its  utmost  length  from  north 
to  south  is  about  nine  miles,  and  its  utmost  breadth  from  east  to 
west,  about  six  miles.  It  contains  about  19,296  acres  imperial, 
or  15,300  Scots,  exclusive  of  the  space  occupied  by  the  town, 
villages  and  great  roads.  Calculating  the  average  length  at  eight, 
and  the  average  breadth  at  four  and  a-half  miles,  the  number  of 
square  miles  in  the  parish  will  be  36,  and  of  square  imperial  acres, 
23,040. 

Dunfermline  is  bounded  by  the  parishes  of  Cleish  and  Saline 
on  the  north,  of  Carnock  and  Torryburn  on  the  west,  and  of 
Beath,  Aberdour,  Dalgety,  and  Inverkeithing,  on  the  east.  It 
has  Inverkeithing,  also,  on  the  south-east ;  and  the  Frith  of  Forth 
on  the  south-west. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  surface  presents  a  great  va- 
riety of  appearances. 

The  southern  division  is  fertile  and  well  clothed,  and  in  many 
places  very  beautiful,  from  the  undulating  nature  of  the  ground, 
and  the  intermixture  of  clumps  and  belts  of  good  plantations  ; 
while  the  northern  is,  with  some  exceptions,  naked  and  bleak  in 
aspect.  The  land  has  a  general  ascent  from  south  to  north, 
which  is  easy,  and  not  much  interrupted  by  declivities  between 
the  Frith  of  Forth,  at  the  village  of  Limekilns  and  the  town  ;  but 
is  more  rapid  and  irregular  afterwards.  The  undulations  of  the 
rising  ground,  on  the  approach  to  the  town,  from  the  North 
Queensferry,  are  very  considerable,  causing  alternately  great 
heights  and  hollows  in  the  road  leading  to  it. 

The  northern  section  of  the  parish  is  considerably  diversified 
by  high  and  low-lying  grounds,  the  swelling  ridges  becoming 
more  numerous  and  elevated,  as  they  spread  towards  the  Cleish 


824 


FIFESHIRE. 


hills,  with  occasional  valleys  intervening,  and  generally  extending 
from  east  to  west.    The  Roscobie  ridge  is  very  pronninent. 

The  principal  hills  are,  the  hill  of  Beath,  on  the  north-east, 
which  is  partly  in  this,  and  partly  in  Beath  parish  ;  and  Craig- 
luscar  hill,  on  the  north-west.  The  former  has  the  greater  ele- 
vation of  the  two,  is  clothed  with  verdure  to  the  summit,  and  com- 
mands a  beautiful  prospect. 

The  coast  along  the  Frith  of  Forth  stretches  about  a  mile 
and  a  half,  and  is  partly  high,  and  partly  flat.  It  is  chiefly  rocky 
in  its  nature,  and  the  portion  of  it  immediately  in  front  of  Broom- 
hall  house,  which  is  steep,  is  covered  with  fine  wood.  At  the 
western  extremity  are  the  harbour,  village,  and  lime-works  of 
Charleston  ;  in  the  centre,  the  bay,  harbour,  and  village  of  Lime- 
kilns ;  and  close  by,  on  the  east,  in  the  parish  of  Inverkeithing, 
the  harbour  of  Brucehaven,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  onward 
the  ruins  of  the  old  church,  and  the  churchyard  of  Rosyth,  where 
the  ground  projects  a  little  into  the  Frith. 

Meteorology, — The  atmosphere  is  generally  dry,  clear,  bracing, 
and  salubrious;  but  there  is  a  considerable  diversity  in  the  parish 
as  to  climate.  In  the  southern  division,  where  the  land  has  a 
gentle  slope  towards  the  Frith,  and  is  comparatively  well  shelter- 
ed, the  temperature  is  much  milder  and  more  genial  than  in  the 
northern,  where  the  gromid  has  a  gradual  ascent,  and  is  more 
hilly  and  less  protected.  From  this  circumstance,  as  well  as  the 
greater  wetness  and  inferiority  of  the  soil  in  the  northern  district, 
the  harvest  there  is  commonly  two  or  three  weeks  later  than  in  the 
southern.  Even  in  the  upper  and  lower  ends  of  the  town,  there 
is  a  perceptible  difference  in  the  temperature,  as  indeed  may  be 
supposed  from  the  fact,  that  there  are  200  feet  of  difference  be- 
tween their  respective  elevations  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

A  meteorological  table,  showing  the  state  of  the  barometer  and 
thermometer  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  for  ten  years,  1825- 
1834,  both  inclusive,  was  kept  by  the  late  Rev.  Henry  Fergus, 
minister  of  the  Relief  Church,  Dunfermline,  well  known  in  this 
quarter  for  the  ardour  and  ability  with  which  he  prosecuted  scien- 
tific studies,  as  well  as  the  amiableness  and  modesty  of  his  cha- 
racter. From  this  table,  with  which  I  have  been  fivvoured,  the 
following  facts  and  calculations  have  been  deduced  as  to  atmo- 
spheric pressure  and  temperature  :— 

1 .  Atmospheric  Pressure. — The  subjoined  table  points  out  the 
mean  height  of  the  barometer  for  each  of  the  months  of  the  ten 


DUNFERMLINE. 


825 


years  specified,  viz.  from  the  beginning  of  1825  to  the  end  of 
1834,  derived  from  observations  made  daily  at  nine  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  There  is  also  a  column  to  indicate  the  deviations  in 
excess  or  defect  of  the  means  for  each  month  from  the  mean 
height  of  the  barometer,  during  the  whole  period  of  observation. 


Months. 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 


Aberrations 

xleigut  at 

or  ivioniujy 

9.  A.M. 

Means. 

Inches. 

Inches. 

29.49 

+.05 

29.40 

—.04 

29.43 

—.01 

29.41 

—.03 

29.55 

+  .11 

29.48 

+.04 

29.51 

+  .07 

29.46 

+  .02 

29.45 

+  .91 

29.44 

=.00 

29.35 

—.09 

29.31 

—.13 

29.44 

Average  Mean 

Thus  it  appears  that  the  average  mean  pressure,  taken  from 
the  means  of  the  months,  is  29.44  ;  that  the  means  in  excess  are 
one  more  than  in  defect ;  that  the  former  obtain  in  five  conse- 
cutive months,  from  May  to  September,  both  inclusive ;  and  that 
in  the  month  of  October  there  was  an  equality. 

The  mean  height  of  the  barometer  during  the  twelve  months, 
and  the  highest  and  lowest  state  of  it  in  the  course  of  each  year 
of  the  above  specified  period,  as  also  its  annual  range  or  difference 
between  these  two  conditions,  was  as  follows  : — 


Years. 

1825 
1826 
1827 
1828 
1829 
1890 
1831 
1832 
1833 
1834 

Means 


Mean  Height 
of  Barometer 
during  Twelve 
Months. 
29.655 
29.287 
29.437 
29.293 
29.350 
29.478 
29.491 
29.565 
29.471 
29.614 


Highest.  Lowest. 


29.403 


29.68 
29.56 
29.57 
29.64 
29.73 
29.80 
29.69 
29.74 
29.87 
29.87 

29.59 


28.75 
29.11 
28.90 
29.01 
29.18 
29.25 
29.29 
29.42 
29.02 
29.19 

29.26 


Annual 
Range. 

.93 
.45 
.67 
.63 
.55 
.55 
.40 
.32 
.85 
.68 

.50 


2.  The  Temperature.— The  following  table  shows  the  mean 
heightof  the  thermometer  during  the  tw  elve  months  of  each  of 
the  years  in  the  fore-mentioned  period  ;  as  also  its  highest  and 
lowest  state  in  each  year  of  it :  


FIFESHIRE. 


Mean  Height  of 

Yha  us. 

Thermometer 
during  Twelve 
Months. 

HiffliGst 

1823 

46.810 

60.01 

37.22 

1826 

47.655 

62.07 

34.17 

1827 

46.380 

58i26 

33.18 

1828 

47.662 

57.26 

39.13 

1829 

44.950 

57.05 

33.17 

1830 

45.909 

58.14 

35.09 

1831 

.  47.629 

60.17 

34.27 

1832 

47.134 

58.10 

38.27 

1833 

46.757 

59.0 

34.10 

1834 

48.023 

60.0 

39.12 

The  mean  temperature  of  each  month,  and  the  average  means 
of  the  whole  for  these  ten  years,  is  thus  shown  : — 


Months. 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July  . 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 


Mean  Height  of 
Thermometer 
from  1825  to  1834. 
36.17 
38.14 
40.13 
44.12 
50.14 
S7.10 
59.10 
56.10 
52.16 
48.15 
40.12 
40.14 


Average  Mean  46.  8 

The  average  of  the  thermometer  was  accordingly  46.8,  while 
that  of  the  barometer,  as  formerly  ascertained,  was  29.4.4'.  It  ap- 
pears, too,  that  January  was  the  coldest  and  July  the  hottest 
months  during  the  ten  years  in  question. 

Main  and  Wind, — The  prevailing  and  strongest  winds  in  the 
parish  are  from  the  west  and  south-west,  as  indicated  by  the  in- 
clination in  an  opposite  direction  of  single  and  exposed  trees  ;  and 
it  is  these  winds  which  most  frequently  bring  rain,  while  the  cold- 
est are  from  the  north  and  east.  A  north-westerly  wind  is  gene- 
rally dry. 

In  1828,  the  following  observations  were  made  as  to  rain  and 
wind.  From  1st  January  to  .3 1st  December  of  that  year,  there 
were  157  rainy  days,  in  51  of  which  the  rain  was  incessant.  The 
number  of  days  during  which  the  wind  blew  from  the  west  and 
south-west  was  211,  from  the  south  39,  from  and  about  the  east 
56,  and  from  the  north  59. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  the  quantity  of  rain  which  fell  in  the 


DUNFERMLINE. 


827 


town  of  Dunfermline  each  month  for  the  last  ten  years,  obtained 
from  a  common  rain-gauge. 


Months, 

1832. 

1833. 

1834. 

1835. 

1836. 

1837. 

1838. 

1839. 

1840. 

1841. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

In. 

January, 

.75 

.37 

4.4 

1.7 

3.9 

1.2 

1.9 

2.8 

3. 

1.3 

February, 

1.8 

3, 

2.6 

2.8 

2.4 

3.5 

2.9 

2.5 

1.4 

l.l 

March, 

1.5 

1.5 

2.4 

2.6 

3.9 

.5 

3.5 

3.1 

3. 

1.2 

April, 

1.24 

1.4 

.9 

I. 

2.2 

1.9 

1.8 

.4 

3. 

.8 

May, 

1.4 

2.4 

1.5 

1.4 

.5 

1.5 

2.8 

.8 

3.1 

.7 

June, 

1.7 

2.6 

2.5 

.9 

2.6 

1.5 

6,4 

2.4 

1.8 

1.9 

July, 

1.6 

2.6 

1.9 

2.2 

6.9 

2.5 

3. 

2.8 

3.5 

4.5 

August, 

■3.9 

1.1 

1.7 

1.6 

2.9 

34 

3.9 

1.6 

2.1 

6.8 

September, 

1.3 

1.4 

4.5 

4.9 

3.2 

1.6 

3.4 

4.8 

2.3 

3.3 

October, 

5.6 

1. 

1.6 

2.7 

2.7 

3.5 

2.2 

2.9 

2.1 

8.2 

November, 

1.3 

2.4 

2.3 

2.9 

2.6 

3.9 

2.2 

2.9 

2.5 

2.1 

December, 

1.0 

6.1 

1.3 

1.9 

4. 

2,7 

l.l 

2.9 

5. 

3.2 

Total  of  ) 
each  year,  \ 

23.63 

27.87 

27.6 

26.6 

38.8 

27-8 

35.1 

29.9 

32.8 

85.1 

Hydrography. — The  Frith  of  Forth,  as  already  mentioned, 
bounds  the  lower  part  of  the  parish,  on  the  south-west,  and  the 
quoad  civilia  part  of  it,  at  North  Queensferry,  on  the  south-east. 
It  presents  here  nothing  remarkable  as  to  tides,  except  a  slight 
peculiarity  occasionally  at  Charleston,  the  south-western  extre- 
mity of  the  parish.  Indeed,  there  is  no  great  peculiarity  in  this 
respect  on  the  whole  Frith  till  near  Alloa,  where  there  is  a  very 
striking  one,  called  Lakies,  of  which  a  short  account  is  given  in 
Sibbald's  History  of  Fife  (pp.  87-8),  and  a  very  full  one  in  the 
new  Statistical  Account  of  that  parish. 

A  bank  runs  from  Long  Craig  Island  at  North  Queensferry,  all 
along  the  north  shore,  as  far  up  as  Long  Annat  Point,  above  Blair 
house,  west  of  the  burgh  of  Culro.ss,  which  is  nearly  dry  in  all 
places,  in  low  spring  tides. 

Some  of  the  soundings,  at  a  little  distance  from  this  bank,  at 
low  water  of  spring  tides,  are  as  follows  :-7- 


Near  Charleston,  .... 
Between  Charleston  and  Limekilns, 
Near  Limekilns, 
...    Du-Craig  Island,  west  of  Rosyth  Castle,* 
...    Long  Craig  Island,  west  of  North  Queensferry, 
The  depth  of  water  at  Charleston  harbour,  at  the  height  of  the 
tides,  is  .  _ 

Ditto  at  Limekilns  harbour. 
Ditto  at  Brucehaven  do. 

Ditto  at  all  these  harbours,  at  neap-tides,  is  about 


stream 


16  feet. 
12 
9 
21 
18 

m 

134 
144 


"i^-?'''*i*'Qniyi-'"^'''"9''''S'' ^''^li"'  black-rocks,"_Sibbald's  History  of  Fife,  Cu- 
par  Fife,  1803,  Svo,  p.  94. 


FIFliSHIRE. 

Heavy  gales  of  wind  from  the  west  often  raise  the  tides  1^  feet 
above  the  usual  calculation. 

The  average  depth  of  water  in  the  centre  of  the  Frith,  between 
a  point  opposite  Rosyth  castle,  and  a  point  opposite  Borrowstoun- 
ness,  is  about  55  feet.  The  greatest  depth  in  this  range  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  small  Bimar  Island,  where  it  is  192  feet.  Be- 
tween that  island  and  Long  Craig  Island,  it  is  16'2  feet.  The 
depth  between  North  Battery  Pier  and  the  north-west  of  Inch- 
garvie  Island,  is  210  feet,  nearer  to  that  point  it  is  222  feet, — the 
greatest  depth  of  water  in  the  whole  Frith,  and  even  in  many  parts 
of  the  North  Sea. 

A  stone-beacon  was  lately  erected  by  the  commissioners  for  the 
northern  light-houses  on  Bimar  Island,  27  feet  in  height,  and  13 
in  diameter,  as  a  protection  to  vessels  at  high  water,  when  the 
island  is  covered 

Long  Craig  Island,  Du- Craig,  and  Bimar,  are  all  rocky  and  of 
small  extent.    Their  sizes  are  in  the  order  now  named. 

South  of  the  east  end  of  Long  Craigs,  and  midway  between  it 
and  a  parallel  line  from  Bimar,  is  Fair-way  sunk  rock,  flattish, 
stretching  south-west  and  north-east,  about  the  size  of  the  deck 
of  a  vessel  of  200  tons.  It  is  covered  at  lowest  stream  ebb  by  5^ 
or  6  feet  water.  A  sloop  drawing  8^  feet  water  grounded  on  it 
on  the  2d  November  1826,  and  remained  till  the  tide  had  flowed 
an  hour.  Since  that  period,  vessels  with  any  draught  of  water 
always  take  the  south  side  of  Bimar  rock. 

The  smallest  breadth  of  the  Frith,  viz.  from  the  extremity  of 
the  Signal- House  Pier  to  that  of  the  South  Queensferry  Pier,  at 
lowest  water  of  spring  tides,  is  H  miles,  and  to  Newhalls  Pier, 
about  50  yards  more.  The  greatest  breadth,  viz.  from  Limekilns 
to  the  opposite  shore,  west  of  Blackness  Castle,  is  from  two  to 
three  miles. 

Springs. — There  is  a. small  mineral  spring  near  the  iron  mill, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Charleston. 

The  springs  from  which  the  town  of  Dunfermline  is  supplied 
with  water  are  situated  at  Cairncubie,  in  the  town-moor,  about  a 
mile  and  half  north-east  of  the  town.  The  water  was  first  brought 
from  them  into  the  town  about  1797,  and  is  conveyed  in  pipes 
partly  wooden  and  partly  cast-  iron,  and  also,  during  a  portion  of 
its  progress,  in  conduits  built  of  stone  and  lime. 

Lakes  or  Lochs. — There  are  several  of  these  in  the  northern 

6 


DUNFERMLINE. 


829 


part  of  the  parish ;— the  Town  Loch,  Lochend,  Lochfitty,  Loch 
Gloe,  and  Black  Loch. 

Rivulets. — The  chief  brook  deserving  notice  is  the  Lyne,  or  as 
it  is  often  called  the  Spital  (Hospital)  burn,  from  passing  in  its 
course  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  hospital  of  St  Leonards,  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  town.  There  are  also  the  Tower  or  Tour-burn, 
which  winds  round  the  Tower-hill  in  PittencriefF  Glen,  whence  it 
derives  its  name,  and  the  Baldridge  burn. 

Mineralogy,  Geology,  Soil.* — The  fields  of  coal  in  this  district 
are  very  extensive,  and  appear  to  have  been  among  the  most  an- 
cient in  Scotland.  I  am  aware  of  only  two  notices  of  coal,  one 
in  England,  the  other  in  Scotland,  prior  to  that  in  Dunfermline, 
the  former  being  variously  dated,  1234,  1239,  and  1245  ;  the  lat- 
ter 1284-5.t 

In  1*291,  William  de  Oberwill,  proprietor  of  PittencriefF  estate, 
adjoining  to  the  town,  granted  a  charter  to  the  abbot  and  convent 
of  Dunfermline,  bestowing  on  them  the  privilege  of  working  one 
coal-pit,  wherever  they  chose,  on  any  part  of  his  property,  except 
the  land  which  was  arable  ;  and  when  one  was  exhausted,  of  open- 
ing another  at  their  pleasure,  as  often  as  they  considered  it  expe- 
dient, but  for  their  own  exclusive  use,  and  with  an  express  prohi- 
bition to  sell  coals  to  others.  He  also,  in  the  same  charter,  gave 
them  a  right  to  quarry  and  hew  as  many  stones  as  they  pleased, 
on  the  same  conditions,  with  the  liberty  of  making  "  free  use  of 
all  the  roads  and  footpaths  through  his  lands  of  PetyncrefF  and  of 
Galurigs,  which  they  at  any  time  had  employed,  or  been  in  the 
practice  of  employing."  To  this  charter  were  affixed  not  only 
his  own  seal,  but,  at  his  instance,  those  of  the  Lord  Bishop  of  St 
Andrews,  and  of  Robert  de  Malevilla  (Melville),  and  it  is  dated 
at  Dunfermline  on  the  Tuesday  immediately  before  the  feast  of 
St  Ambrose,  bishop  and  confessor,  1291.| 

But  at  the  early  period  of  1291,  there  was  little  coal  wrought 
in  the  parish.  It  was  then  a  luxury  enjoyed  chiefly  by  the  inmates 
of  the  Abbey,  and  persons  of  distinction  in  the  country. 

In  progress  of  time  coal  came  to  be  generally  used  as  fuel  in 

*  Vide  the  author's  Prize  Essay  on  the  Dunfermline  coal-field,  which  appeared  first 
in  the  Quarterly  Journal  of  the  Highland  and  Agricultural  Society  of  Scotland,  for  June 
1840,  and  with  the  necessary  alterations  brought  down  to  October  1842,  and  some  ad- 
ditions, in  his  Historical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Dunfermline,  pp.  600,  illustrated 
with  17  engravings,  published  by  Blackwood  and  Sons,  May  1844. 

+  Arnot's  Hist,  of  Edinburgh,  4to,  Book  i.  ch.  2,  p.  84.  History  of  Fossil  Fuel, 
&c.,  8vo,  (1835),  p.  310-31 1.     Chalmers'  Caledonia,  Vol.  i.  p.  7!)3,  note. 

t  Carta  de  PeihyncrefF  de  done  Willielmi  dc  Oberwill,  12!)1  Chartulary  of  the 

Abbey,  Advocates'  Lib.    Printed  Chart,  p.  218. 


830 


FIFESIIIRR. 


Dunfermline,  as  in  other  places;  and  when  trade  was  prosperous, 
even  to  be  exported  to  foreign  parts.  Although  it  continued  to 
be  wrought  by  crop-levels  long  after  1291,  there  was  little  expor- 
tation till  the  middle  of  last  century.  Even  so  late  as  1763,  the 
writer  of  the  last  Statistical  Account  of  the  parish,  states  that  the 
annual  value  of  exported  coal  was  only  L.200,  and  in  1771,  that 
it  did  not  exceed  L.500  Sterling.  The  coal-mines  became  after 
1771,  and  have  continued  to  be,  very  lucrative  to  many  of  the  pro- 
prietors. "  From  a  remote  period,"  the  same  writer  records, 
*'  the  family  of  Pitferrane  obtained  from  Government  the  privilege 
of  exporting  these  coals  to  foreign  parts,  free  of  all  duty  whatever. 
The  original  privilege  was  renewed  by  Queen  Anne,  on  Decem- 
ber 21,  1706,  and  ratified  in  Parliament  on  March  21,  1707.  The 
family  continued  to  enjoy  the  privilege  till  1788,  when  it  was  pur- 
chased by  Government  for  L.40,000  Sterling,  when  the  property 
that  could  injure  the  revenue  was  nearly  exhausted." 

Although  the  coal  in  the  parish  has  thus  been  dug  for  upwards 
of  five  centuries,  it  is  still  most  abundant.  Nearly  3000  acres  are 
calculated  as  still  to  work,  a  portion  of  that  quantity  having  been 
ascertained  by  general  boring,  and  the  rest  conjectured  on  good 
grounds  to  be  of  the  coal-formation,  with  such  interruptions,  more 
or  less  slight,  as  commonly  occur  in  coal-fields. 

The  coal-strata  extend  from  Culalo  Hills  on  the  east  to  the 
Saline  Hills  on  the  west,  and  pervade  in  that  line  of  bearing  the 
whole  of  the  parish  of  Dunfermline.  In  some  parts  there  have 
been  discovered  10  or  12  seams  to  the  dip,  the  aggregate  thick- 
ness of  which  amounts  to  upwards  of  40  feet,  contained  in  beds 
varying  from  a  few  inches  to  seven  or  eight  feet  in  thickness. 
These  are  different  in  quality  as  well  as  in  thickness,  but  in  gene- 
ral improve  towards  the  west.  By  being  divested  of  part  of  their 
bitumen,  they  partake  of  more  heat  and  durability,  and,  from  a 
hard  splint,  they  become  a  rich  caking  cubical  coal,  until  they 
approach  the  trap  hills,  when  they  lose  their  bituminous  quality 
altogether,  and  are  changed  into  a  blind  anthracite,  or  glance-coal.* 

Elgin  Colliery.— The  largest  proprietor  is  the  Earl  of  Elgin, 
who  possesses  a  coal-field,  the  whole  area  of  which,  wrought  and 
unwrought,  may  be  stated  at  from  2600  to  2700  acres. 

The  coal-seams  are  of  various  quality,  and  some  of  them,  es- 
pecially the  deepest,  are  extremely  valuable.    Almost  all  the  coal 

•  This  coal  is  termed  by  the  workmen  in  Fife,  RoUen  vatchell,  or  Foul  rahill,  and 
U  used  in  furnaces  of  steam-engines  and  breweries. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


8D1 


partakes  more  or  less  of  the  caking  quality  and  soft  texture  of  the 
Newcastle  coal.  It  is  easily  ignited,  possesses  great  heat  and  du- 
rability, and  produces  very  few  ashes  of  a  brown  colour,  which 
renders  it  cleanly  and  economical  for  all  purposes. 

A  new  pit  was  completed  at  the  end  of  the  year  1839,  105  fa- 
thoms deep,  named  the  "  Wallsend  Pit,"*  which  has  entirely  su- 
perseded the  use  of  the  Baldridge  pit  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  the 
deepest  coal  shaft  in  Scotland,  and  probably  one  of  the  most  va- 
luable. It  is  very  productive,  yielding  at  present  as  much  coal  as 
all  the  other  pits  together  previously  did  at  any  one  time. 

Subjoined  is  a  section  of  the  different  strata  in  this  pit,  showing 
the  order  of  their  superposition  and  succession,  as  well  as  the 
thickness  of  each.  As  the  shaft  is  sunk  in  the  bottom  of  an  el- 
liptical basin,  the  general  dip  of  the  strata  is  towards  the  shaft,  as 
to  a  common  centre  from  all  directions,  except  the  north,  where 
the  segment  of  the  basin  is  cut  off  by  a. dike.  The  general  angle 
of  the  dip  will  be  from  16°  to  20°.f 

•  The  common  name  Wallsend  means  the  end  of  the  wall  of  Severus,  on  the  north- 
ern bank  of  the  Tyne,  a  few  miles  below  Newcastle,  where  the  best  coal  is  got. 

f  Section  of  the  strata  in  the  Wallsend  Pit  in  West  Baldridge,  the  property  of  the 

Earl  of  Elgin. 

Coal.      Various  Strata. 


1 .  Soil  and  clay  mixed  with  sand, 

2.  Soft  brown  sandstone, 

3.  Coal  soft  and  foul, 

4.  Soft  brown  sandstone, 

6.  Hard  white  sandstone, 

B.  Slate  clay  or  blaes  mixed  with  sand 

7.  Coal, 

8.  Bituminous  stone  or  slate, 

9.  Coal, 

10.  Slate-clay  or  blaes 

11.  Soft  white  sandstone, 

12.  Slate-clay  or  blaes,  . 

13.  Sandstone  plies  mixed  with  blaes, 

14.  Slate-clay  or  blaes, 

15.  Coal, 

16.  Bituminous  stone, 

17.  Coal, 

18.  Slate-clay  or  blaes, 

19.  Sandstone, 

20.  Sandstone  plies  and  blaes  alternately, 

21.  Sandstone, 

22.  Slate-clay  or  blaes, 

23.  Coal, 

24.  Slate-clay,  .      '       _  ' 

25.  Sandstone, 

20.  Slate-clay,  .      '       ,  * 


Fath.  Ft.  In. 


0    3  0 


0 
0 
0 


3 
0 
2 


9 


0   0  7 


Fath, 
2 
4 
0 
1 
1 
0 


0 
0 
0 
0 

1 

0 


Ft. 

4 

3 

3 

2 

3 

1 


6 
1 
2 
3 
3 
4 
0 
1 
3 
3 


In. 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

6 


0 
3 
0 
9 
9 
4 


8 
10 
I 
0 
0 
4 
7 
2 
7 
3 


Carry  over, 


832 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  whole  quantity  of  coals  raised  at  the  Elgin  Collieries,  on  an 
average  of  the  last  five  years  and  upwards,  has  been  fully  60,000 


27.  Slate-clay  mixed  with  sandstone, 

28.  Slate-clay, 

29.  Sandstone 

30.  Slate-clay, 

31.  Sandstone 

32.  Slate-clay, 

33.  Coal, 

34.  Slate-clay, 

35.  Coal, 

36.  Bituminous  stone, 

37.  Coal, 

38.  Sandstone  plies  and  blaes  alternately, 

39.  Slate-clay, 

40.  Coal, 

41.  Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 

42.  Coal, 

43.  Sandstone  with  a  ply  of  slate-clay, 

44.  Slate-clay, 

45.  Coal, 

46.  Slate-clay, 

47.  Sandstone. 

48.  Slate-clay, 

49.  Coal, 

Depth  of  Pitferrane  level, 

50.  Slate-clay, 
61.  Coal, 

52.  Slate-clay  with  balls  of  ironstone, 

53.  Fire-clay, 

54.  Slate-clay  with  balls  of  ironstone, 

65.  Coal, 

66.  Bituminous  stone, 

67.  Coal,  .  •  • 

68.  Slate-clay, 

59.  Ditto  mixed  with  siindstone 

60.  Sandstone, 

61.  Coal, 

62.  Sandstone, 

63.  Ditto  mixed  with  blaes, 

64.  Slate-clay, 

C5.  Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 

66.  Sandstone, 

67.  Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 

68.  Sandstone, 

69.  Slate-clay, 

70.  Sandstone,  hard, 

71.  Slate-clay, 

72.  Coal, 

73.  Slate-clay, 

74.  Sandstone, 

75.  Coal, 

76.  Slate-clny,  • 
77  Ditto  mixed  with  sandstone, 


Coal.  Various  Strata. 
Fath.  Ft.  In.   Path.  Ft.  In, 


0  0  5 

0  2  6 

0  0  3 

0  3 


0 


0 


0  2  9 
0  1  10 
2  7 


0    2  5 


0    2  3 


0  1  11 
0  0  4 
0    1  4 


0    3  9 


0  0  7 
0    1  6 


0 
0 
0 


0 
0 
0 
2 
0 
2 
0 
I 


0  I 


0  0 
0  3 


1 

2 
2 
5 
4 

0  0  8 
0    3  10 

0    2  5 


2 
8 
J 
2 
0 


41  0 
0  2 
0  2 
0  3 
0  0 
0  2 


3  7 

4  6 
4  2 
0  3 
3  9 
0  11 
3  0 
3  9 

0    2  10 

0    2  8 
3 
4 
4 


0 
1 
4 
4 


0 
1 

2 

0  I 

0  2  5 

0  0  7 

1  4  3 
0  0 
0  I 
0  2 
0  2 


Carry  over, 


DUNFERMLINE. 


833 


tons,  40,000  of  which  have  been  exported,  chiefly  to  the  ports  on 
the  Baltic  and  Mediterranean  Seas,  the  remainder  being  disposed 
of  by  land  sale,  and  consumed  at  the  Charleston  Limeworks.  The 
whole  of  this  quantity  is  now  produced  at  the  Wallsend  pit  alone. 

Welhoood  Colliery. — Immediately  to  the  east  of  the  Elgin  is  the 
Wellwood  Colliery,  belonging  to  Andrew  Wellwood  of  Garvock, 
Esq.  It  is  situated  about  a  mile  north  of  Dunfermline,  and  is 
leased  by  James  Spowart  of  Venturefair  and  Bellfield,  Esq.,  a  very 
enterprising  and  successful  coalmaster.    The  colliery  was  a  few 


Coal.      Various  Strata. 


78. 
79. 
80. 
81. 
82. 
83. 
84. 
85. 
8«. 
87. 
88. 
89. 
90. 
91. 
92. 
93. 
94. 
95. 
96. 
97. 
98. 
99. 
100. 


Slate-clay, 
Coal, 

Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 
Coal, 

Slate-clay, 

Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 

Sandstone, 

Slate-clay, 

Ditto  mixed  with  sandstone, 
Sandstone, 

Ditto  mixed  with  blaes, 
Slate-clay  or  blaes. 
Coal, 

Sandstone  with  petrifacllons, 

Slate-clay, 

Coal, 

Slate-clay  (light  grey). 

Ditto  mixed  with  sandstone, 

Sandstone, 

Slate-clay, 

Coal, 

Bituminous  stone,  . 
Coal, 


Fath.  Ft.  In. 

Fath.  Ft.  In 

0 

3  1 

0    0  7 

0 

0  7 

3 

2  5 

0    I  2 

0 

1  2 

0 

1  8 

0 

4  6 

2 

1  8 

0 

2  0 

2 

5  0 

1 

3  0 

0 

1  8 

0 

4  0 

0    1  7 

0 

1  7 

2 

3  7 

1 

5  5 

0    0  2 

0 

0  2 

0 

5  0 

0 

5  3 

9 

0  C 

0 

3  5 

101.  Slate-clay, 

102.  Ditto  marked  with  sandstone, 

103.  Slate-clay, 

104.  Sandstone  mixed  with  blaes, 

105.  Sandstone, 

106.  Slate-clay, 

107.  Coal, 

108.  Sandstone  plies  mixed  with  blaes, 

109.  Slate-clay  or  blaes, 

110.  Coal, 

111.  Sandstone, 


0  2  8 
0  0  a 
0    0  10 


0    2  0 


0  3 


0 

3 

9 

0 

3 

0 

0 

1 

6 

0 

1 

6 

1 

2 

7 

3 

3 

0 

0 

1 

7 

0 

2 

0 

3 

1 

0 

1 

0 

0 

0 

3 

8 

1 

4 

0 

105 

1 

0 

xu  w  c  pruoeuing  section,"  tiie  manager  remarks,  "  there  are  27  b^ 

an"    be  w?our  to"'l"^  T  ^  '^'-^  aL  so^thin^^that^'th^v 

nTZ\  I     ,  i       "<i''«ntage.    But  there  are  1 9  of  them  containing  49  feet  8  inches 
of  coal  when  taken  m  secUons,  as  stated  in  the  left  hand  column,  v"l  "ch  can  be  wrS 
m  l.i  d.vsions  or  separate  workings.    Each  of  these  divisionTk  JcneralMenoZS 
one^seam,  without  any  regard  to  the  midstone  which  lies  between  the  cliLrent  bero^ 

tur'p  oT'lh^M  fams  partake  less  or  more  of  the  caking  quality  and  soft  tex- 

1st  kbd."  I"''''^"'^^'       th'-ee  undermost  are  of  the  ve?y  rich- 


FIFE. 


3g 


834 


FIFESHIRE. 


years  since  greatly  increased  in  value,  both  to  the  proprietor  and 
lessee,  by  the  erection  of  a  powerful  steam-engine  for  drawing  the 
water,  whereby  an  excellent  seam  of  splint-coal  was  reached,  much 
admired  for  its  clearness  and  purity.  The  coal  from  this  work  is 
extensively  used  in  the  town  of  Dunfermline  and  neighbourhood, 
and  a  large  quantity  of  it  is  also  exported  to  the  ports  on  the  Bal- 
tic and  Mediterranean  Seas,  France,  &c.  chiefly  for  navigation 
purposes,  for  which  it  is  well  adapted.  The  steam-toats  plying 
between  Paris  and  Rouen  are  almost  entirely  supplied  with  it» 
There  have  been  at  times  2000  tons  sent  down  by  the  Elgin  rail- 
way in  one  fortnight. 

The  coal-field,  including  East  Baldridge  and  Venturefair,  not 
at  present  wrought,  may  embrace  '200  acres,  of  which  30  or  40 
are  still  to  work. 

The  average  quantity  of  coals  raised  in  1836-1841  was  39,535 
tons  per  annum. 

Townhill  and  Appin  Collieries. — To  the  east  of  this  colliery, 
and  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the  town,  are  the  Townhill 
and  Appin  Collieries,  the  former  belonging  to  the  burgh  of  Dun- 
fermline, and  the  latter  to  Mr  Downie  of  Appin.  Previous  to 
Candlemas  1838,  the  burgh  had  its  coal  in  its  own  hands,  and 
worked  only  that  which  was  at  a  moderate  depth,  and  of  inferior 
quality,  which  was  all  sold  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood  at  a 
lower  rate  than  other  coal.  At  the  period  mentioned,  however, 
an  enterprising  and  wealthy  company  took  a  lease  of  it  for  nine- 
teen years,  commencing  at  that  date,  and  by  sinking  new  pits,  so 
as  to  reach  the  splint  coal,  a  greater  amount  and  superior  quality 
of  coal  are  raised,  so  that  hopes  are  entertained  that  not  only  the 
lessees,  but  the  creditors  of  the  burgh,  will  be  much  benefited, 
even  that  the  debt  of  the  burgh  will,  at  no  distant  period,  be  en- 
tirely paid  off".  The  consumption  formerly  was  chiefly  in  the  town 
and  vicinity,  but  now  there  is  a  considerable  exportation  to  France, 
Denmark,  and  the  Baltic.  The  coal  for  exportation  is  now  ship- 
ped at  Inverkeithing,  whither  it  is  conveyed  by  a  branch  railway 
recently  formed  through  the  lands  of  Messrs  Downie,  Wellwood, 
and  Main,  and  joining  the  Halbeath  one  at  Guttergates,  near 
where  it  crosses  the  Crossgates  road. 

The  whole  coal-field  leased  by  the  company  is  understood  to 
cover  above  900  acres,  of  which  about  700  still  remain  unworked. 
All  the  lower  seams  to  the  north  of  the  great  dike  are  untouched. 

The  gross  output  of  coal  for  several  years  previous  to  1838  by 


DUNFERMLINE. 


835 


the  burgh  used  to  be  between  6000  and  7000  tons  per  annum. 
That  of  the  company  averages  at  present  15,000  tons. 

Halbeath  Colliery. — The  next  large  and  very  old  colliery,  still 
farther  to  the  east,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  town  of 
Dunfermline,  is  that  of  Halbeath,  belonging  to  John  Clarkson, 
Esq.  The  coal-field  here  is  very  extensive,  comprehending,  with 
all  the  portions  leased  from  the  neighbouring  proprietors,  seve- 
ral hundred  acres,  of  which  there  is  a  large  portion  still  to  work, 
but  the  precise  extent  of  this  cannot  well  be  ascertained,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  want  of  the  old  plans  of  the  workings.  It  may  be 
estimated,  however,  at  above  200  acres.  A  valuable  bed  of  can- 
nel  or  parrot  coal  has  been  wrought  in  it,  with  much  advantage  of 
late,  in  supplying  the  Dunfermline  and  other  gas-works. 

There  are  other  two  small  collieries,  the  Cuttlehill  and  South 
Lethan,  but  at  present  there  is  little  coal  wrought  at  them. 

Fossil  Organic  Remains.— These  are  found  in  great  abundance 
in  almost  all  these  coal-fields,  and  they  chiefly  belong  to  the  ve- 
getable kingdom.  They  occur  in  the  sandstone,  coals,  and  fire- 
clay, but  principally  in  the  shales.  Some  excellent  specimens 
were  found  in  the  New  Wallsend  pit,  at  the  Elgin  Colliery,  in 
the  stratum  No.  91  of  the  section  previously  given,  which  is  15 
feet  7  inches  of  sandstone,  at  the  depth  of  from  76  to  78  fathoms 
from  the  surface.  The  largest  of  these  have  been  transferred  to 
the  lawn  south-east  of  Broomhall  House. 

Elgin  Colliery.~\.  A  Stigmariaficoides.  There  are  specimens 
of  the  body  of  this  tree  in  fire-clay,  with  the  leaves  proceedina 
Irora  the  punctures,  six  or  seven  inches  long.  2.  There  are  stalkt 
0  the  Szgillaria  pachyderma.  3.  There  are  the  Lepidodendron 
obovatum,  and  the  Lepidodendron  Sternbergii,  with  other  species. 

tf  T  f ^"""^  ^  Pl^"''  ^^'ch  is  probably  a 
Megaphyton.  It  is  a  pretty  long  stalk,  exhibiting  projecting  points 
like  steps  from  which  the  branches  probably  went  off.    Some  por- 

h  "     t      u'''  '''''       'l"^^^  ^'"^-t^^'        others  still 
whi  h  tTl         I  ^^^'^       ^""^^  ^-dy  structure, 

be  n  fi  le  '   "ll"  t'"^'        ^'-PP-^d,  and  the'space  ha 

wloo/c  7  1  "rf""*^'  ^^'•'"'"g  sandstone, 
found  t  ^t^'-^-A^  ^he  Wellwood  Colliery  there  have  been 
of T!/'  ' n^f''"^'"'  Lepidodendron  Sternbergii,  and 

f  fo?t  Zr   1  '  ^'^"^  ^he-'  than 

a  foot  long,  and  exh.b.tmg  two  divisions  of  growth  ;  and  there  is 

another  more  compressed,  probably  from  hafing  lain  either  hor 


836 


FIFESHIRK. 


b  ^ 
a,  o 

Vi  w 
C 

C3  M 

■*-»  M 


c 

a 

o 

«  TV 

<u  bC 
tfl  , 

2  B 

CO 


•a  ^.2 

3  <U  *^ 

o  1^ «  5 

.    2    (O  M 

J5  M 


00 


■* 

CO 

.S 


3-0 
"S  o 

CO 
I.  _ 

0)  o 

^  g- 


O 

B 


?  13 

a  a 
o  <u 
*■>  u 

'S-.S 
a  0) 

a  J3  >. 

(U   u  C3 

O.S  S 


c 
o 

wi 

01 
CO 

Lh  . 

S  M 

a 

3 


O 
in 


c  o 


S  ^«  - 
i;  c  _  3  to  ^ 

.  .    1  s 


GJ   o  ••-»  GJ 


o 

C  -3 


C  3 


-  3 

o 
s 


°  a! 
1-  0* 
O  B 

Ph  td 

-SB 

"  s 


&  £ 
3.-2 

(O  (O 
C3  "2 

cj  3: 

t  3 

O  O 


te  3  " 

0  W  O 

1  t-  (M 
10  3  ^ 

o 


J3 

5  g 


o  o  to 

«  — ■ 

o 


Be-* 

wag 

O  o 
3   S  — 

a  <!  w 

—  CN  — c 


3 
3 


3  3 
*  O 

I.  I- 

^  T3 

a 

3 


s 

o 
o 


03 
O 

u 

O  .3 

CO  "5 

•Is 


«  CO 
CO 

3 


3  'O  -3  13  CO 
O  (M  iffl  CO 

f  • 


-O  -3 

^to 

00  . 


4J  O 

B  ~a 

13  ^ 
.3  J3 


&  ; 

o  ( 

3 

§ 

U  C3 
_  O 

a  . 

B'ti  B 

M_>0  CO 


(U 

► 


-3  o 
05  W 

to  a 

CO  ^3 

P  I. 

0) 


3-^ 
3 

"3 

b" 

to 

O 


^  05 

pa 


■3 

00 

J£  -a' 
.!= 

to  ._r 

O  O 

3  • 

a  '3  <u 
W  tJ 
e    •  3 
3 

3  a> 


CO  IX) 

bD 

CN 

3  *J 

0.  of  worki 
e  Fortnigli 

Z  J= 

Q) 

4^ 

bC.S 

ki  CO 

and 
rosSj 

a> 

!>•  ca 
<'3 

D 

3 


3.  ^ 


t«  bo 

O  3 

cu  u 

.3  O 

S  ^ 
3 


u  .5 
°  S 


O  o 

o 

3  2 


C5 


C 

_^  

O  <D 

H"S 

3  .E 

ci>  3 
M  „  3 

2  1  I 
g;  2  g 


.a  s 

O  ai 
.  CB 

o 
5^ 


CO 


eo 

a 

o 


o 
o 
o 
o 


3 
O 

< 


o 

8 
« 

3 
O 

.a 

<3 


o 


-3 
3 
<u 

3. 
(U 
T3 

d. 
o 
Ck 

o 


o 


13 
3 

ca  bO 
«.S 

a)  Tif 

O  01 

.  j= 
1° 


-I  a 


—  CO   I  t-- 

g8S 


„  0) 


O 


DIJNFERMLINE. 


837 


zontally,  or  at  least  at  a  less  angle  than  45°.  The  reedy  appear- 
ance on  both  is  quite  distinct.    The  Stigmaria  also  has  been  found. 

Toion  Hill  Colliery. — At  the  Town  Hill  Colliery  there  have 
been  found  some  very  fine  specimens  of  the  Lepidodendron  in  clay- 
ironstone  and  in  shale,  and  of  the  Calamites. 

Halbeath  Colliery. — The  tooth  of  a  sauroid  fish,  named  by  M. 
Agassiz,  McgalycMis,  was  found  a  few  years  since  in  a  bed  of  can- 
nel  coal  at  Halbeath,  of  which  Leonard  Horner,  Esq.  gave  an 
account  in  the  Edinburgh  New  Philosophical  Journal  for  April 
1836,  contending,  in  opposition  to  the  opinion  of  Dr  Hibbert,  that 
it,  as  well  as  the  same  fish  found  in  the  limestone  of  Burdiehouse, 
belongs  to  a  marine,  not  a  fresh  water  formation. 

This  district  abounds  not  only  in  coal,  but  in  limestone,  whin- 
stone,  sandstone,  and  a  portion  of  ironstone. 

Limestone. — Limestone  is  found  in  the  lands  of  Broomhall,  Ros- 
cobie,  Lathalmond,  DundufF,  Dunnygask,  Craigluscar,  Cowdens, 
Brucefield,  Southfod,  and  Sunnybank  ;  but  is  wrought  for  sale  at 
present  only  on  the  first  four  mentioned  properties. 

There  are  altogether  about  400,000  bushels  of  shells,  and 
15,000  tons  of  raw  stone  sold  annually  at  Charleston.  The  burnt 
lime  is  sold  by  the  imperial  standard  measure,  and  the  present 
prices  are, — 

For  lime  shells,  per  bushel,  .  .  L.O   0  4 

Slacked  lime,  per  chalder  of  36  bushels,  .  0    4  0 

Limestone,  per  ton,  .  .  0    4  0 

(  Put  free  on  board  at  Charleston  harbour. ) 
Lime-shell,  by  land-carriage,  per  bushel,  .  0    0  6 

There  are  nearly  60,000  bushels  of  shells  sold  annually  at 
Roscobie  at  5^d.  per  bushel. 

The  limestone  in  the  parish  belongs  to  the  mountain  limestone 
formation,  and  is  of  marine  orierin. 

The  Charleston  limestone  has  several  varieties,  the  principal  of 
which  are  of  a  grey  colour,  with  foliated  structure,  greyish  brown 
with  splintery  fracture,  and  compact  ash-grey.  These  have  been 
found  by  careful  analysis  to  contain  carbonic  acid  from  40.25  to 
42.3;  hme  from  47.05  to  51.6;  magnesia  from  0.92  to  2.59; 
alumina  from  0.95  to  1.8  ;  silica  from  2.76  to  7.9  ;  iron  from  0.28 
to  0.56  ;  with  a  very  small  proportion  of  manganese,  carbon,  sul- 
phur, and  naphtha.  The  limestone  which  contains  the  greatest 
portion  of  naphtha,  carbon,  and  sulphur,  is  also  that  which  is  low- 
est in  the  stratification.* 

son's  Fdtnl„rXN'^  ' P,         ^  l^te  of  Inverkciihin^,  in  Jume- 

son  s  hdinburgli  New  Philosophical  Journal,  vol.  vi.  p.  364. 


838 


fifesiiihe. 


Fos$il  Remains.— There  is  a  great  abundance  of  fossil  remains 
in  the  Charleston  limestone.  One  large  block  of  the  stone,  con- 
taining a  very  rich  specimen  of  these,  has  been  transferred  to  the 
lawn  on  the  south-east  corner  of  Broomhall  House. 

Here  there  are,  \st.  The  Turbinolia  fwigites,  vulgarly  named 
Sheephorn,  from  its  resemblance  to  that  object,  or  turbinated  ma- 
drepore. 

Id,  The  Tubipora,  in  great  abundance. 

Sd,  The  Encrinite.  Whole  masses  of  the  rock  at  Charleston 
are  covered  with  this  fossil,  on  account  of  the  profusion  of  which, 
the  limestone  might  be  called,  as  it  sometimes  is,  "  Encrinal." 

4!th,  The  Producta  is  very  plentiful  in  this  quarry,  and  there  are 
some  specimens  of  that  species  of  it  which  have  been  denominated 
the  Producta  Martini.  There  are  also  the  Producta  fimbriato, 
pustulosa^  and  many  others.  There  are  observable  on  some  of  the 
Producta  long  minute  lines,  like  silver  wires,  proceeding  from  both 
valves,  commonly  named  needles,  but  now  ascertained  to  be  the 
spines  of  the  Producta.  Some  portions  of  limestone  also  contain 
these  spines  without  the  Producta, 

There  are  here,  too,  several  species  of  Spirifers  and  Terebra- 
tulce,  and  a  few  rare  instances  of  the  Orthoceratite. 

On  the  shore,  west  of  the  harbour,  was  found  a  specimen  of  ap- 
parently a  coralline. 

Between  Broomhall  House  and  the  quarry,  there  is  on  the  ris- 
ing ground  a  huge  piece  of  lime-rock,  preserved  as  a  memorial  of 
the  height  which  the  rock  once  possessed,  and  full  of  the  organic 
remains  now  noticed,  some  of  which  are  in  thick  regular  layers. 
This  piece  of  rock  is  seen  from  a  great  distance,  and  has  upon  it 
a  flag-staff. 

Roscobie  Limestone. — This  is  about  three  and  a  half  miles  north 
from  the  town  of  Dunfermline,  and  is  also  of  the  mountain  de- 
posit. It  has  several  varieties,  the  two  principal  of  which  are, — 
compact,  grey,  fracture  earthy,  with  many  particles  of  calcareous 
spar ;  and  compact,  grey,  fracture  earthy,  with  very  few  of  these 
shining  particles.  Two  specimens  of  these  were  carefully  analys- 
ed for  the  writer  in  January  and  February  1839,  by  Rev.  A.  Ro- 
bertson, Junior,  well  known  for  his  chemical  attainments,  and  were 
found  to  contain  as  follows.    The  tirst, — 


Carbonic  acid, 

Lime, 

Magnesia, 

Alumina  and  oxide  of  iron, 


4'23 
52.8 
0.54 
0.5 


DUNFERMLINE. 


839 


Siliceous  matter,  insoluble  in  acid,  in  powder 
and  small  masses,  .  .  .  3.7 

A  trace  of  sulphur  and  naphtha,  and  a  little 
carbon. 


99.84 

The  second, — 

Carbonic  acid,  >  ,  41.4 

Lime,       ...  .  52.2 

Magnesia,       .  .  .  0.83 

Alumina  and  oxide  of  iron,         '  •  .  0.4 

Siliceous  matter,  insoluble  in  acid,  in  gritty 

powder,       .  .  .  .  4.7 

A  trace  of  carbon. 


99.03 

This  limestone  abounds  in  the  same  kinds  of  fossils  as  have  been 
mentioned  to  occur  in  that  of  Charleston.  The  encrinite  is  ex- 
ceedingly abundant,  and  very  large  at  Roscobie.  One  piece  has 
been  found,  containing  not  only  a  great  mass,  in  apparent  confu- 
sion, as  if  arising  from  some  violent  disturbance  of  the  stems  and 
tentacula,  but  also  what  are  very  rare,  at  least  in  Scotland,  two 
heads  of  this  fossil.  The  rarity  of  these  is  supposed  to  be  owing 
to  their  having  been  more  tender  parts  of  the  animal,  and  of  course 
more  easily  destroyed  than  the  others. 

There  are  met  with  here  also  pieces  of  calcareous  shale,  in 
which  there  are  parts  of  the  encrinite  covered  with  iron-pyrites, 
and  beautiful  crystals  of  the  same.  Some  pieces  of  shale,  too, 
have  the  spines  of  the  Producta  distinctly  marked  on  them  ;  and 
one  has  spines  of  perhaps  a  large  Producta,  with  portions  of  en- 
crinites  and  Retepora.    Also  Turbinolia  is  found. 

At  the  neighbouring  lime-quarry  of  Lathalmond  there  are  some 
large  specimens  of  the  Producta. 

Sunnybank  Limestone. — The  limestone  at  the  small  quarry  of 
Sunnybank,  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  is  not  the  main 
bed  of  the  mountain  deposit,  but  one  of  the  interpolated  beds  of 
the  same  formation.  There  is  a  thin  bed  of  coal  immediately  be- 
low the  limestone,  and  beneath  the  coal  is  a  deep  bed  of  fire-clay, 
of  which  are  manufactured  the  very  excellent  fire-brick  and  gas 
retorts  made  at  Inverkeithing. 

Orthoceratites  and  various  shells  abound  in  a  bed  of  slate-clay 
immediately  above  the  limestone;  as  also  at  Duloch,  in  the  im- 
mediate  neighbourhood,  in  Inverkeithing  parish. 

Craigluscar  Lime.Qimrrtj.—Thh  quarry,  which  is  in  the  north- 
western part  of  the  parish,  and  near  the  summit  of  a  hill  of  the 
same  name,  presents  one  of  the  exceptions  to  the  general  nature 


840 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  the  limestone  rock,  inasmuch  as  it  contains  a  bed  of  trap,  inter- 
stratified  with  two  beds  of  limestone.  The  trap,  however,  is  not 
pure,  but  has  a  mixture  of  lime  in  it,  in  consequence  of  which  it 
is  commonly  named  Bastard  Whin.  It  is  soft  and  of  no  durability, 
and  hence  is  of  little  value.  It  is  used  in  kiln  buildings,  and  as 
metal  on  country  roads,  but  soon  needs  to  be  replaced.  It  was 
probably  thrown  up  over  the  lower  bed  of  limestone,  and  at  some 
subsequent  period  the  upper  bed  was  deposited  upon  it. 

No  metallic  deposites,  which  are  so  abundant  in  the  correspond- 
ing limestones  of  England,  have  been  discovered  in  the  limestones 
of  this  parish. 

Trap  Rocks. — There  are  several  quarries  of  these  in  the  parish. 
The  principal  one  is  at  Woodhill,  on  Knockhouse  farm,  belonging 
to  Captain  Sir  John  Halket,  Bart.,  Pitferrane.  This  rock  appears 
to  have  been  produced  after  the  deposition  of  the  coal  formation. 
It  is  rather  an  exception  to  the  general  appearance  of  such  rocks. 
It  cannot  be  said  to  be  exactly  stratified,  but  there  are  regular 
overflows,  or  beds  of  trap,  as  in  volcanic  mountains ;  and  different 
from  one  another  in  compactness  or  degrees  of  hardness.  The  co- 
lumnar structure  is  not  very  distinct,  but  seems  to  be  separated  oc- 
casionally by  fissures  containing  quartz  and  carbonate  of  lime. 
There  is  one  of  these  of  considerable  length  and  width.  They 
may  not  have  been  original  cracks,  but  occasioned  by  subsequent 
convulsions,  and  filled  by  siliceous  and  calcareous  materials.  The 
rock  presents  in  different  places,  when  newly  broken,  beautiful 
veins  of  quartz,  and  of  jasper,  approaching  to  cornelian.  There 
are  strewed  around  the  quarry  various  balls  or  masses  of  decom- 
posed greenstone,  of  a  roundish  form,  with  concentrate  coatings  or 
layers,  which,  it  is  well  known,  form  an  excellent  soil.  The  rock 
is  within  a  few  inches  of  the  surface,  in  which  respect  it  differs 
greatly  from  the  sandstone  quarries  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood, which  have  an  alluvial  covering  of  from  10  to  20  feet  thick. 

There  is  another  of  these  trap-rock  quarries  at  Redcraigs  toll, 
three  miles  north  from  the  town  of  Dunfermline,  and  another  a 
mile  and  a  half  still  farther  north,  near  the  Outh  farm-house,  both 
on  the  Crieff  road,  and  seen  from  it.  This  last  quarry  has  a  very 
curious  and  interesting  appearance,  resembling  the  general  aspect 
of  the  basaltic  pillars  at  the  Giant's  Causeway  in  the  north  of  Ire- 
land. It  is  not  large,  is  of  a  semicircular  form,  and  has  rather  a 
narrow  entrance.  At  the  north-west  corner  the  stones  are  colum- 
nar, and  of  a  pentagonal  figure.    They  lie  in  a  horizontal  posi- 


DUNFERMLINE. 


€41 


tion,  the  one  heaped  above  the  other,  and  closely  and  regularly 
compacted,  with  the  outer  ends  pointing  southward.  On  the  north 
side  the  pillars  are  vertical,  on  the  east  arched  downwards,  on  the 
south  inclining  or  dipping  in  a  bending  form  to  the  north,  and  on 
the  south-west  corner  dipping  to  the  north-east.  Some  parts  of 
the  greenstone  are  amygdaloidal,  having  the  cavities  filled  with 
carbonate  of  lime,  and  some  of  the  fissures  are  coated  with  calca- 
reous spar. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  trap-rock,  also,  on  the  range  of  hills 
lying  between  the  Redcraigs  toll  and  the  Roscobie  lime-works. 

Freestone  or  Sandstone  Quarries. — There  are  several  of  these 
in  the  parish.  The  chief  ones  are  at  Berrylaw  and  North  Ur- 
quhart,  a  mile  north-west ;  at  Millhills,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south- 
east;  and  at  Sunnybank,  three  miles  south-east  from  the  town  ; 
and  at  Pittencrieff  within  it,  between  Pittencrieff  and  Golf-Drum 
Streets.  The  stone  at  all  these,  except  the  last,  is  of  good  qua- 
lity, and  much  used  in  building. 

Fossil  Remains  in  the  Sandstone  Qiiarries. — There  have  been 
found  at  the  Berrylaw  and  North  Urquhart  quarries  many  large 
fossils  of  the  three  kinds  already  named  as  occurring  in  the  coal- 
formation,  the  Lepidodendron,  the  Stigmaria  Ficoides,  and  the 
Sigillaria.  The  writer  lately  obtained  a  very  excellent  specimen 
of  the  first  of  these,  about  3  feet  in  length,  and  one  in  diameter; 
and  two  of  the  third,  one  having  three  branches,  the  stem  and  one 
branch  of  which  are  2^  feet,  and  the  other,  having  two  branches, 
the  stem  and  one  branch  of  which  are  foot  long,  and  both 
about  8  inches  in  diameter.  The  bark,  which  is  turned  into  coal, 
still  retains  in  all  of  these  in  some  places  the  black  coally  struc- 
ture and  substance.  On  the  east  side  of  the  Berrylaw  rock,  and 
completely  imbedded  in  it,  is  a  large  root  of  the  Sigillaria,  about 
4  feet  high,  nearly  upright,  apparently  standing  where  it  grew, 
b\it  probably,  according  to  the  more  prevalent  opinion  of  geolo- 
gists, transported  from  its  native  site  by  the  inundation  of  some 
river,  and  meeting  with  an  obstacle,  deposited  in  its  present  posi- 
tion, the  sedimentary  matter  of  the  agitated  waters  accumulating 
around  it,  as  well  as  replacing  its  own  inner  substance,  which,  it  is 
well  known,  in  all  fossil  trees  decayed  first,  and  now  forming  the 
sandstone. 

In  the  adjoining  North  Urquhart  rock  there  was  lately  seen 
closely  imbedded  in  it  the  stem  or  branch  of  a  fossil  tree,  6  or  8 


842 


PIFESHIllE. 


feet  long-,  and  7  or  8  inches  in  diameter,  lying  horizontally,  and 
about  40  feet  from  the  surface. 

Quarrymen  are  not  fond  of  meeting  with  these  fossil  remains, 
smce,  wherever  they  occur,  there  are  generally  cracks,  technically 
called  dries,  which  prevent  long  blocks  being  taken  out. 

It  is  the  remark  of  an  old  observant  quarryman  that  he  has  al- 
ways found  the  Lepidodendron  lowest  in  the  rock,  then  the  Stig- 
maria,  and  the  Sigillaria  highest,  and  that  near  the  last,  the  rock 
IS  m  an  unsolid  loose  state ;  and  farther,  that  he  has  never  seen  a 
root  penetrating  a  layer  of  earthy  matter  lying  between  two  beds 
of  stone,  while  he  has  noticed  it  passing  through  two  contiguous 
beds  not  so  separated. 

Petrifactions  have  been  found  also  in  the  Pittencrieff  quarry, 
and  particularly  a  species  of  Stigmaria,  which  is  thought  to  be 
undescribed. 

At  Millhills  quarry,  too,  there  have  been  got  impressions  of 
Spirifers  and  Pecten  papyraceus,  Producta  on  bituminous  shale, 
Corbula  sulcata  in  clay-ironstone,  and  Spirifera  bisulcata. 

The  principal  specimens  of  these  fossil  remains  which  have 
been  noticed  are  to  be  seen  in  the  New  Museum  of  the  Highland 
and  Agricultural  Society  of  Scotland,  Edinburgh. 

Composition  of  Hills  and  Plains.— The  hills  are  generally  com- 
posed of  greenstone,  as  is  the  case  in  those  of  Craigluscar  and 
Roscobie.  The  Hill  of  Beath,  adjoining  to  the  Halbeath  Col- 
liery, some  of  the  minerals  under  which  belong  to  the  Marquis  of 
Tweeddale,  and  are  leased  by  the  Halbeath  Company,  is  com- 
posed of  greenstone,  and  must  have  been  projected  after  the  coal- 
strata.  For,  when  the  workings  were  carried  under  the  hill,  the 
strata  were  observed  to  rise  towards  the  centre,  or  rent,  through 
which  the  greenstone  must  have  been  projected. 

In  the  high  grounds  and  plains,  at  least  so  far  as  the  coal-for- 
mation extends,  there  are  alternate  beds  of  sandstone  and  blaes  (or 
slate-clay),  with  balls  of  ironstone  in  it.  Bituminous  shale  and 
indurated  or  fire-clay  frequently  intervene,  but  the  first  two  com- 
pose the  greatest  part  of  the  strata  above  the  coal,  and  are  found 
in  beds,  varying  from  1  foot  to  20  feet  in  thickness,  and  to  the 
depth  of  from  20  to  100  fathoms  before  reaching  the  lowest  seam 
of  coal,  under  which  sandstone  of  different  colours  and  textures 
more  generally  prevails,  to  the  depth  of  50  or  60  fathoms,  until 
it  reach  the  limestone. 

Ores  and  Simple  Minerals. —  Ironstone,  to  a  greater  or  less  ex- 


DUNFEKMLiNE. 


843 


tent,  pervades  the  whole  coal-field  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  in  thin 
bands  and  balls,  and  was  once  wrought  to  the  extent  of  4000  to 
5000  tone  per  annum.  But  the  working  of  it  was  discontinued 
about  eight  or  nine  years  ago,  as  a  remunerating  price  could  not 
be  obtained  for  it,  on  account  of  the  low  price  of  pig-iron,  and 
has  not  since  been  resumed.  Copper-pyrites,  in  small  quantities, 
is  found  imbedded  in  the  clay-ironstone  with  carbonate  of  lime 
at  the  Elgin  Colliery,  -  There  is  a  thin  seam  of  argillaceous  iron- 
stone in  the  Wellwood,  Town  Hill,  and  Halbeath  Coal-fields, 
but  in  all  of  these  it  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  not  sufficiently 
abundant  to  render  it  workable  to  a  profit.  It  occurs  both  in  veins 
and  nodules  at  the  Townhill  Colliery.  It  is  also  found  in  blaes 
while  tirring  for  lime  at  the  Charleston  and  Northern  Limestone 
Quarries. 

Iron-pyrites  is  likewise  sometimes  met  with  in  the  roof  of  the 
parrot- coal  at  Halbeath  Colliery.  Neither  the  extracting  nor 
purifying  of  ores  is  practised  in  the  parish.  Some  beds  of  sand- 
stone at  the  Elgin  Collieries  contain  strong  impregnations  of  alum. 
Quartz  and  calcareous  spar  are  found  imbedded,  and  in  veins,  in 
the  trap-rock  at  the  Town  Hill  Colliery.  Garnets  occur  in  the 
boulders  of  mica-slate  scattered  in  that  neighbourhood. 

Alluvial  Deposites. — At  the  Elgin  Colliery  the'  alluvial  cover 
above  the  sandstone  is  composed  of  clay,  mixed  with  sand  and 
small  rounded  stones,  and  frequently  of  fragments  of  the  different 
strata  under  it.  In  the  working  coal-field  it  varies  in  thickness 
from  6  to  18  feet.  It  is  impervious  to  water,  and  never  produces 
water  of  itself.  Peat  in  some  instances  forms  part  of  the  alluvial 
cover. 

At  the  Wellwood  Colliery  the  alluvial  cover  is  from  6  to  90 
feet  in  thickness,  consisting  of  clay,  sand,  and  large  blocks  of 
quartz,  greenstone,  and  other  materials.  As  none  of  these  rocks 
are  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  the  blocks  must  have  been 
transported  from  some  of  the  hills  by  water. 

At  the  Townhill  Colliery  the  alluvial  cover,  in  the  higher  parts 
of  the  ground,  consists  of  a  stiff  tenacious  clay,  intermixed  with 
rounded  water-worn  stones ;  and  in  the  lower  and  hollow  parts,  of 
a  rich  vegetable  mould,  approaching  in  some  places  to  the  nature 
of  peat,  under  which  the  clay  is  again  found,  resting  upon  the  rock, 
but  much  thinner.  The  covering  varies  from  3  to  9  feet  in  thick- 
ness. 

At  Halbeath  Colliery  the  alluvial  cover  is  from  4  to  40  feet 


844 


PIPESHIRE. 


in  thickness  :  and  at  the  Netherbeath  Colliery  it  is  about  18  feet 
where  it  is  chiefly  of  a  clayey  nature,  ' 
No  remains  of  plants  or  animals  are  known  to  have  been  met 
with  in  any  of  these  alluvial  deposites. 

Soil  and  BouIders.~The  land  towards  the  north  of  the  town 
where  the  collieries  are  situated,  is  generally  of  inferior  quality', 
but  some  portions  of  it  are  good,  and  others,  from  being  much  im- 
proved by  draining,  yield  a  fair  produce.  The  soil  in  that  quarter 
vanes  from  a  few  inches  to  2  or  3  feet  in  thickness,  and  chiefly 
rests  on  till,  but  some  of  it,  especially  near  Lathalmond,  where 
the  lime-quarry  is,  reposes  on  trap,  sandstone,  or  limestone. 

The  land  towards  the  south  of  the  town,  in  which  are  some  of 
the  sandstone  quarries  that  have  been  mentioned,  and  the  Charles- 
ton lime-work,  is  of  excellent  quality,  in  high  cultivation,  and 
capable  of  bearing  all  sorts  of  crops.  The  soil  there  consists 
chiefly  of  a  brown  loam,  resting  on  rotten  trap ;  but  a  portion  of  it 
is  of  a  light  nature,  on  strong  clay,  not  far  from  the  surface. 
Zoology. — Rare  Birds  found  occasionally  in  the  Parish.  


Falco  Halia'e'tus 
peregrin  us 
cyaneus 
^salon 
Lanius  Excubitor 
Corvus  Graculus 
Sturnus  vulgaris 
Turdus  torquatus 
Motacilla  PhoDnicurus 
rubetra 
rubecola 


Parus  ater 

caudatus 

palustris 
Capriraulgus  europaus 
Hasmatopus  ostralegus 
Rallus  aquaticus 
Alcedo  ispida 
Scolopax  glottis 
Tringa  macularia 
morinella 


A  lea  Torda 
arctica 
Alle 

Larus  ridibundus 
crepidatus 

Anas  Tadorna 
Penelope 
Ferina 
clangula 
fuligula 


Botany. — Rare  Plants  found  in  the  Parish. — 


Hippuris  vulgaris 
Veronica  Buxbaumii 

polita 
Fedia  mixta 
Eleocharis  multicautis 
Agrostis  Spica-venti 
Melica  nutans 
Festuca  bromoides 
Bromus  erectus 
Galium  MoUugo 
Potaraogeton  heterophyllus 

rufescens 
Lysimachia  vulgaris 
Primula  elatior 
veris 

Verbascum  nigrum 
Viola  hirta 
Chenopodium  olidum 
rubrum 

Peplis  portula 
Tulipa  sylvestris 
Alisma  ranunculoides 
Trientalis  europfea 
Epilobium  roseum 


Polygonum  viviparum 
Paris  quadrifolia 
Pyrola  secunda 
Silene  anglica 

noctiflora 
l.ythrum  salicaria 
Rubus  saxatilis 
Glaucium  luteura 
Nymphasa  alba 
Nuphar  lutea 
Ranunculus  hirsutus 
Mentha  viridis 

crispa  (variety) 

piperita 
Galeopsis  Ladanum 
Stachys  ambigua 
Nasturtium  sylvestre 
terrestre 
Brassica  campestris 
Sinapis  muralis 
Miilva  moschata 
Vicia  sylvalica 
Tragopogon  pratensis 
major 


Thrincia  hirta 
Hieracium  Lawsoni 
Cichorium  lutybus 
Senecio  saracenicus 
Matricaria  Chamomilla 
Anthemis  arvensis 
Cotula 
Habenaria  albida 
Epipactis  ensifolia 
Malaxis  paludosa 
Euphorbia  Lathyrus 
Sparganium  natans 
Carex  divulsa 

strigosa 

fiilva 

stricta 
Arum  maculatum 
Atriplex  laciniata 

angustifolia 
Asplenium  alternifolium 

marinum 
Pteris  crispa 
Botrychium  Lunaiia 
Ophioglossum  vulgatum 


DUNFERMLINE. 


845 


There  are  no  forests.  The  plantations  cover  about  900  Scotch 
acres,  and  are  chiefly  on  the  Pitferrane  and  town  properties ;  the 
former  to  the  west,  and  the  latter  to  the  north-east,  of  the  burgh. 
The  soil  appears  to  be  congenial  to  almost  all  sorts  of  timber,  but 
not  all  equally  so.  The  wood  grown  consists  chiefly  of  larch  and 
Scotch,  fir,  with  a  proportion  of  oak,  beech,  elm,  plane,  ash,  and 
willow. 

II. — Civil  History. 
Ancient  and  Modern  Accounts,  Maps,  Plans,  and  Swveys,  Sfc, 
of  the  Parish, — The  most  ancient  and  valuable  document  con- 
nected with  the  parish,  in  reference  particularly  to  the  Monastery 
which  once  flourished  in  it,  is  "  The  Auld  Register,"  or  the  "  Li- 
ber MonasteriidetDunfermlin,"  commonly  called  the  Phartu- 
lary  of  Dunfermline.  It  is  a  large  folio  MS.volume,  consisting  of  169 
leaves  of  vellum,  and  has  long  been  preserved  in  the  Advocates* 
Library  at  Edinburgh.  It  is  known  to  have  been  there  at  the  end 
of  the  seventeenth  century ;  but  when  the  first  Earl  of  Hadding- 
ton (a  celebrated  antiquary),  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  used 
it,  making  a  table  of  its  contents,  and  taking  numerous  extracts 
from  it,  illustrative  of  the  ancient  tenures  and  forms  of  convey- 
ancing of  Scotland,  he  does  not  state  where  the_ Register  was  then 
deposited. 

At  the  close  of  the  last  year  (1842),  this  Chartulary  was 
printed  by  the  Bannatyne  Club,  as  the  joint  contribution  of  seven 
of  its  members,*  under  the  editorial  care  of  Cosmo  Innes,  Esq., 
advocate,  extending,  with  appendices  and  tables  of  contents,  to 
561  pages  quarto. 

A  table  of  the  contents  of  two  MS.  registers  is  printed  along 
with  the  Chartulary  of  Dunfermline,  by  the  Bannatyne  Club, 
from  inventories  in  Lord  Haddington's  Collections,  preserved  in 
the  Advocates'  Library,  and  collated  with  the  original  volumes. 

A  History  of  the  Town  and  Parish  of  Dunfermline  was  pub- 
lished by  the  late  Rev.  John  Fernie,  one  of  the  parochial  minis- 
ters m  1815,  in  8vo,  which  contains  some  useful  statistical  infor- 
mation, collected  with  much  care  and  accuracy,  applicable  to  that 
period.    It  is  now  out  of  print. 

Another  History  of  Dunfermline  from  the  earliest  records  down 
to  1828,  the  date  of  its  publication,  12mo,  was  written  by  the  late 

•  Duke  of  Buckingham,  Eurl  Spencer,  late  Earl  of  Rosslyn,  the  Right  Honour- 
able  Thomas  Grenville,  late  R.  Fergusson  of  Raith,  Esq.,  James  Loch.  Esq.,  and 
John  Richardson,  Esq.  London.  '      i '  i  ,  u  .vi 


FIFHSHIRE. 


Mr  A.  Mercer,  author  of  «  Dunfermline  Abbey,"  a  poem,  witli 
historical  illustrations,  published  in  1819,  of  a  collection  of  verses 
In  1838,  and  of  some  fugitive  pieces  which  appeared  in  the  «  North 
British  Magazine"  in  1804,  of  which  he  was  for  the  short  period 
of  fourteen  months  editor,  and  in  other  periodicals,  and  who  died 
m  Dunfermhne  only  last  July  1842;  a  man  whose  abilities,  edu- 
cation,  and  literary  taste,  had  they  been  steadily  directed  to  one 
definite  object  of  pursuit  in  life,  might,  with  his  inoffensiveness  of 
disposition,  have  secured  for  him  a  higher  estimation,  and  better 
fortune  than  unhappily  distinguished  his  latter  days. 

There  was  published  also  in  his  name,  a  large,  «  Historical  and 
Chronological  Table  of  the  ancient  town  of  Dunfermline,  from 
1064  to  1834,"  on  a  large  sheet,  which  is  an  abridgement  of  an 
elaborate,  valuable,  and  beautifully  written  MS.  quarto  volume, 
pp.  422,  entitled,  «  Annals  of  Dunfermline  from  the  earliest  Re- 
cords to  1833,"  and  which  was  kindly  prepared  for  his  benefit  by 
the  author,  E.  Henderson,  LL.D.,  F.  R.  A.  S. 

In  the  Advocates'  Library  are  preserved  twelve  vols.  4to, 
bound,  of  the  MS.  collections  of  the  late  Lieutenant^ General 
Henry  Hutton  of  the  Royal  Artillery,  who  for  many  years  was  en- 
gaged in  obtaining  materials  for  a  Monasticon  Scotice,  an  account 
of  all  the  monastic  institutions  in  this  country,  but  who  died  (June 
1827)  before  executing  his  purpose. 

The  earliest  map  of  the  parish,  of  which  I  am  aware,  is  con- 
tained in  a  map  of  the  sheriffdome  of  FyfTe,  by  Mr  James  Gordon, 
parson  of  Rothiemay,  published  in  1645.  This  was  prepared  from' 
the  papers  of  the  famous  geographer,  Mr  Timothy  Pont,  who 
took  the  bearings  of  the  county,  and  executed  draughts  not  only 
of  it,  but  of  most  of  the  parts  of  North  Britain  and  its  isles.  The 
papers,  after  his  death,  came  into  the  possession  of  Mr  Gordon's 
father,  the  learned  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Sfcraloch,  through  Sir 
John  Scot  of  Scotstarvet,  who  not  only  recovered  them,  when 
nearly  lost  or  destroyed  through  carelessness,  but  supplied  their 
defects.    The  map  is  part  of  «  Bleau's  Atlas  of  Scotland." 

A  Plan  of  the  town  of  Dunfermline  was  published  in  1823, 
from  an  actual  survey  by  J.  Wood,  Edinburgh ;  and  a  map  of  the 
parish  included,  in  a  very  large  and  excellent  one  of  the  counties 
of  Fife  and  Kinross,  was  published  in  1828,  by  Messrs  Sharp, 
Greenwood,  and  Fouler,  London,  which  was  republished  with 
improvements  in  1841  by  Mr  Fraz?r,  Cupar  Fife. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


847 


Two  good  engraved  views,  large  folio,  of  the  town  of  Dunferm- 
line, are  to  be  seen  in  Slezer's  *'  Theatrum  Scotiae,"  exhibiting 
some  public  buildings  now  gone,  as  the  Queen's,  Constabulary, 
and  Baillie  Houses,  accompanied  by  letter-press  descriptions  and 
illustrations,  in  Dr  Jameson's  new  edition,  Edinburgh,  1814, 
These  views  were  probably  taken  about  the  year  1690. 

Landowners  in  1843. — These,  with  their  respective  valuations, 
as  standing  in  the  cess-books  of  the  county,  are  as  follows  : 

The  Rigbt  Hon.  the  Earl  of  Elgin, 
Mrs  Madox  Blackwood  of  Pitreavie, 
James  Hunt  of  Pittencrieflf, 
Sir  John  Halket  of  Pitferrane,  Bart. 
Andrew  Moffat  Wellwood  of  Garvock, 
George  Robertson  Barclay  of  Keavil, 
Charles  Durie  of  Craigluscar. 
Robert  Downie  of  Appin,  for  Touch,  &c. 
Col.  Martin  Lindsay  of  Halbeath, 
Adam  Holland  of  Gask, 
Lady  Buchan  Hepburne  of  Blackburn, 
James  Kerr  of  Middlebank, 
Mrs  Winstanley,  i  of  Pitliver,  &c. 
Messrs  Aitken  of  Southfod, 
The  Guildry  of  Dunfermline, 
The  Marquis  of  Tweeddale  for  Kiersbeath, 
William  Miller  of  Sunnybank, 
Robert  Wemyss,  Cuttlehill,  for  Netherbeath, 
James  Alexander  of  Balmule, 
John  Kirk  of  Transy, 
James  Stenhouse  of  Northfod, 
James  Aitken  of  St  Margaret's  Stone, 
James  Spowart  of  Venturefair, 
Capt.  Matthew  Moncrieff  of  Broomhead, 
Mrs  Gairdner  of  Woodraill, 
Alex.  Struthers  of  Brucefield, 
Town  of  Dunfermline, 
Dr  Abercrombie  of  Netherbeath, 
Sir  Robert  Preston's  Trustees,  for  Lochend, 
Robert  Douglas  of  Abbey  Parks, 
Henry  Flockhart  of  Easter  Craigdukie,  . 
Andrew  Main,  part  of  Northfod, 
William  Walker  of  Meldrum's  Mill, 
Mrs  Campbell  of  Headwell, 
Dr  John  Liddel  of  Brieryhill, 
Trustees  of  Henry  Brown  of  Northfod,  *. 
Robert  Curror  of  Wester  Craigdukie, 
Sir  John  Malcolm's  Tutors,  for  Netherbeath, 
Alexander  Colvill  of  Dunduff, 
Miss  Aitken  of  Locbhead,  ',  \ 

James  Aitken  of  Grassmuirland, 
Society  of  Gardeners,  Dunfermline,  '. 
Hugh  Coventry  of  Bennington, 
William  Blackwood,  for  North  Baldridge  ' 
Robert  Clark,  Limekilns,  ,  . 

pniish  ■Swfoi'l  7Z  f"--  poor-rates,  but  for  other  burdens  in  ,1 

pansh,  being  toi  Logic  m  Invcrkeithing  parish,  quoad  civilia. 


1  Cl 

1  y 

c 
O 

1 OU  i 

i  O 

t 
O 

*  1  nc\c^ 

*  J  /Uo 

Jo 

D 

1  Kf^'^ 

Q 

o 

4 

n 
U 

U 

i  UUo 

1 1 

4 

o 

A 

4 

oyy 

1  O 

7 

OD  / 

fl 
0 

*11  7 

Ol  / 

4 

1  1 

A 

n 
4 

Q 
O 

Q 

A 
U 

U 

Zoo 

u 

lU 

10 

1  1 
1 1 

u 

y) 

n 
u 

A 

4 

990 

1  ^ 

Q 

91  ^ 

n 
u 

U 

LDO 

1  1 

Q 

I/O 

10 

Q 

y 

1 
1 

0 

OD 

n 
I 

1 
1 

1  ^  A 
114 

Jo 

8 

14 

10 

139 

14 

4 

137 

5 

10 

136 

0 

0 

133 

0 

0 

126 

0 

0 

117 

12 

0 

111 

5 

10 

110 

5 

2 

108 

4 

0 

107 

11 

6 

106 

2 

6 

100 

0 

0 

95 

6 

8 

81 

0 

0 

78 

2 

6 

58 

3 

4 

49 

8 

6 

34 

0 

0 

•25 

0 

0 

19 

0 

0 

849 


FIFESIIIHE. 


Mrs  Capt.  Wardlaw,  for  part  of  Garvock, 
James  Douglas, 
James  Cusine,  Clayacres, 
Alex.  M'Kinlay's  feu, 
J.  Duncanson's  do. 
John  Anderson's  do. 
George  Cooper's  do. 
P.  Livingston's  do. 
W.  and  J.  Rutherford's  do. 

Total  valued  rental,  as  corrected  in  1843,     .      L.  18,636    5  4 

Parochial  Registers.— These  consist  of  19  folio  volumes,  the 
first  6  of  which  contain  registers  of  baptisms  and  marriages  jointly, 
and  of  the  remaining  13,  there  are  9  of  baptisms  and  4  of  mar- 
riages, separately.  With  the  exception  of  a  blank  in  the  mar- 
riages from  1745  to  1730,  they  are  continuous  from  16th  July 
1561,  the  date  of  the  first  entry,  to  the  present  period.  Where 
the  baptisms  and  marriages  are  recorded  together,  the  latter  are 
on  the  margin.  Some  of  the  old  volumes  are  beautifully  written, 
and  the  ink  is  black  and  still  retains  its  shining  quality. 

There  is  a  register  of  deaths  from  1617  to  1657,  small  quarto, 
very  distinctly  and  beautifully  written.  It  was  recovered  by  me 
very  lately  from  a  person  into  whose  hands  it  had  shortly  before 
accidentally  come.  It  had  evidently  been  at  one  time  in  the  pos- 
session of  one  of  my  predecessors,  but  it  had  afterwards  passed 
from  him  to  others  not  officially  connected  with  the  parish,  and 
seems  to  have  been  altogether  lost  sight  of. 

A  very  accurate  register  of  burials  has  been  kept  in  a  folio  vo- 
lume since  1833.  The  superintendent  of  the  churchyard  takes 
charge  of  it. 

The  kirk-session  records  consist  of  11  folio  volumes.  The  first 
regular  entry  on  them  is  dated  the  last  day  of  June  1640.  The 
minutes  for  the  first  45  years  are  very  neatly  and  distinctly  writ- 
ten, apparently,  too,  in  the  same  hand,  but  abound  in  contractions. 
With  the  exception  of  a  blank  between  1689  and  1701,  the  vo- 
lumes are  continuous  to  the  present  period. 

All  these  registers  and  records  are  well  bound,  lettered,  and 
dated  on  the  back,  and  in  good  preservation. 

Antiquities* — King  Malcolm  Canmore's  Tower. —  All  that  now 
remains  of  this  ancient  edifice  is  a  connected  angle,  or  fragment 
of  the  south  and  west  walls  :  the  length  of  the  former  of  which  is 
31,  and  of  the  latter,  44  feet.    The  south  wall,  in  1790,  was  49^ 

•  A  full  account  of  the  antiquities  is  given  in  the  writer's  History  of  Dunferm- 
line.   Only  a  few  can  be  here  shortly  noticed. 


13  0  0 
9  8  6 
2  15  0 

2  3  11 

1  1  2 

3  13  8 

2  5  11 


DUNFERMLINE. 


849 


feet.  Their  present  height  is  about  8  feet.  They  have  been  of 
great  thickness,  but  all  the  hewn  stones  are  removed  from  them. 
Apparently  the  lower  part  of  the  ancient  tower,  when  entire,  was 
about  50  feet  broad,  from  north  to  south,  and  60  from  east  to  west, 
so  that  the  building  must  have  been  nearly  square.  It  is  about  70 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  rivulet  below. 

The  date  of  this  building  is  uncertain,  but  it  is  supposed  to  be  as 
ancient  as  the  middle  of  the  eleventh  century,  probably  between 
1056  and  1070. 

From  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  tower  or  castellated  palace 
of  Malcolm  III.  could  not  have  been  a  very  spacious  edifice,  and 
if  an  idea  of  its  structure  can  be  formed  from  the  coarse  fragment 
which  remains,  it  must  have  been  of  a  very  simple  kind.  Still, 
here  were  married,  and  lived  in  conjugal  affection,  this  famous 
monarch  and  his  excellent  queen,  Margaret. 

Palace. — A  little  to  the  south-east  of  King  Malcolm  Canmore's 
Tower,  and  east  side  of  the  rivulet  close  to  the  verge  of  the  glen, 
in  a  very  romantic  situation,  are  the  ruins  of  a  palace,  once  the  re- 
sidence of  the  sovereigns  of  Scotland.  Only  the  south-west  wall, 
and  a  small  portion  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  edifice  remain.  The 
wall  which  overlooks  the  glen  is  205  feet  in  length,  and  60  in 
height  outside,  supported  by  8  buttresses.  The  depth  from  the 
sole  of  the  window  in  the  recess  on  the  first  floor  is  31  feet.  At 
the  western  end  tradition  still  points  out  a  high  window,  now  com- 
pletely covered  with  ivy,  and  the  chimney,  nearly  entire,  of  the 
room  in  which  that  ill-advised  and  unfortunate  monarch,  Charles 
the  First,  was  born,  which  event  occurred  on  the  19th  November 
1600.  This,  too,  was  the  birth-place  of  his  sister  Elizabeth,  on 
the  19th  August  1596,  afterwards  Queen  of  Bohemia,  from  whom 
her  present  Majesty  is  descended. 

Near  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  this  massive  wall,  there  is 
m  the  ceiling  of  a  high  and  projecting  oriel  window,  the  third  from 
the  end,  a  large  antique  piece  of  sculpture,  quite  visible  from  be- 
low, which  was  discovered  in  1812,  when  some  repairs  were  made 
on  the  palace ;  and  of  which  an  excellent  cast  was  taken  about 
three  years  ago,  now  in  my  possession.  It  contains  in  bas-relief  a 
well  executed  carving  (in  stone)  of  the  passage  in  the  first  chap- 
ter  of  St  Luke's  gospel,  usually  termed  the  Annunciation.  There 
is  a  representation  of  the  angel  (Gabriel)  with  outspread  wings, 
and  of  the  Virgin  Mary  in  a  devotional  attitude,  facing  each  other. 

The  angel  holds  in  his  right  hand,  which  is  very  unusual,  a  scourge 
FIFE.  3^.^ 


850 


FIFESIIIIIE. 


or  lash,  the  emblem  probably  of  discipline,  and  in  his  left  a  scroll 
proceeding  towards  the  Virgin,  on  which  is  inscribed  part  of  the 
salutation  to  her  in  large  old  Roman  capitals,  "  Ave  gratia  plena 
Dns.  Tec."  {Dominus  Tecum,)  "  Hail  full  with  favour,  the  Lord 
be  with  you."    Before  the  Virgin  is  a  table  with  an  open  book  on 
it,  containing  her  answer,  also  in  Latin,  and  with  some  abbrevia- 
tions.   The  words  are  not  very  legible  on  the  cast,  but  having 
seen  them  as  taken  in  1812  by  a  zealous  antiquary  of  that  day,  I 
can  partly  trace  them,  and  am  satisfied  that  they  are  all  there,  al- 
though the  space  is  but  small.    They  are  in  small  Roman  capi- 
tals, as  exhibited  in  the  engraving,  and  are  as  follows  :  Ecce  ancilla 
di  ( domini.J    Fiat  michi  ( mihij  S.  V.  T.  ( secundum  verbum  tu- 
um,)  "  Behold  the  handmaid  of  the  Lord.     Be  it  unto  me  ac- 
cording to  thy  word."    At  the  top  is  a  human  head  and  face  with 
a  crown  of  glory,  the  emblem  of  God  the  Father,  and  tq  the  left, 
a  dove,  the  symbol  of  the  Spirit,  descending  amid  rays  of  light, 
proceeding  from  him  upon  the  head  of  the  Virgin.    In  front  of 
the  table  before  the  Virgin  is  a  pot  with  a  lily  in  it,  the  emblem 
of  purity,  and  the  usual  accompaniment  of  the  Virgin,  and  in  front 
of  it  again,  at  the  lower  centre  of  the  stone,  is  a  coat  armorial, 
consisting  of  a  shield  bearing  a  cheveron  between  three  crescents. 
The  arms  are  those  of  the  Dury  family,  ancient  possessors  of  the 
lands  of  Dury  in  F'ife,  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  II.,  and  of  whom 
George  Dury,  a  descendant,  was  the  last  abbot  and  perpetual  com- 
mendator  of  the  abbey  of  Dunfermline,  and  arch-dean  of  St  An- 
drews at  the  Reformation,  and  for  about  twenty  years  previous. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  whole  device  is  the  date  1100,  in  Arabic 
numerals,  the  cyphers  being  of  the  form  of  diamonds,  and  before 
it  is  some  contracted  word  not  easily  legible  on  the  cast,  which  has 
hitherto  been  given  as  CHI.  the  abbreviation  for  Christi  ;  but  the 
probability  is  that  it  is  XPI.  the  Greek  letters,  which  are  the 
usual  contraction  for  the  name  of  our  Lord. 

The  date  1100  has  given  great  trouble  to  antiquaries.  The 
question  is,  whether  this  date  was  engraven  at  the  time  specified, 
and  whether  it  be  meant  to  indicate  the  period  when  the  palace  was 
built.  From  various  considerations,  my  own  opinion  is,  thatthestone 
in  its  present  state  could  not  have  been  sculptured  at  that  period. 
As  to  the  time  of  its  execution,  my  conjecture  is,  that  it  was  at 
the  close  of  the  reign  of  James  V.  and  the  commencement  of  the 
abbotship  of  George  Dury,  probably  between  1539  and  1541,  and 
perhaps  contemporaneous  with  the  execution  of  the  coat  of  arms, 


DUNFERMLINE.  851 

just  noticed,  of  that  monarch  and  his  second  queen  soon  after  their 
marriage.  The  date  1100,  too,  may  have  been  put  upon  it,  as 
the  then  reputed  age  of  the  older  part  of  the  palace,  which  in  that 
case  would  be  built  by  King  Edgar,  son  of  Malcolm  III.,  whose 
reign  was  rather  peaceful. 

This  opinion  of  the  antiquity  of  this  part  of  the  edifice,  as  well 
as  of  the  addition  made  to  it  by  James  IV.,  was  expressed  also  by 
the  heritors  of  the  parish,  and  magistrates  and  council  of  the 
town,  in  a  memorial  presented  in  1836  to  the  Commissioners  of 
Woods  and  Forests. 

But  as  no  ancient  and  authoritative  historical  or  other  document 
is  known  to  exist,  fixing  the  age  of  the  palace,  it  must  still,  it  is 
to  be  feared,  remain  iu  some  obscurity. 

Subterraneous  Passoffe.—Neav  the  north-west  corner  in  the 
north  wall  there  is  an  aperture,  which  was  originally  about  4  feet 
high  by  2i  wide,  but  from  the  accumulation  of  the  earth  on  the 
floor  of  the  cellar,  the  height  is  now  only  2^  feet.  This  is  the 
entrance  to  a  long  dark  subterraneous  passage,  with  various  off- 
shoots, and  having  a  total  length  of  about  100  feet.  Not  satisfied 
with  some  of  the  accounts  and  conjectures  current  concerning  it, 
I  resolved  to  make  a  personal  exploration,  which,  with  the  aid  of 
competent  persons,  was  done  early  in  January  1843. 

U^een's  IIouse.-Tbk  building  was  adjacent  to  the  palace,  on 
the  north-east,  and  communicated  with  it  by  a  gallery.  It  stood 
in  the  centre  of  the  street  to  the  north  of  the  present  arched  or 
pended  gateway,  and  reached  near  to  the  great  west  door  of  the 
churcn.  It  was  so  named  as  having  been  erected,  or  at  least  re- 
stored  by  Queen  Anne  of  Denmark,  and  having  been  her  perso- 
nal property  during  life,  and  not  a  mere  jointure  house  to  which 
she  had  a  title  on  the  demise  of  her  husband. 

Immediately  to  the  north  of  the  Queen's  House  stood  the  Con- 
stabulary House,  or  residence  of  the  Constable  of  the  Royal  Edi- 

BTiUe^R™  -  Wuty 

Fr«^.r-7.„Z/      l„,^ediately  to  the  south  of  the  old  Abbey 
Church  are  the  ruins  of  the  Frater-hall  or  Refectory,-the  din- 
ng-roorn  o  the  brethren  or  ecclesiastics.    There  rem'jn  of  it  only 
he  south-front  wa  1  and  the  west  gable,  in  the  former  of  which 
there  are  nme  tall  handsome  windows. 

In  the  west  gable  there  is  a  large  Gothic  window,  much  ad- 


852 


FIFESIIIRE. 


mired,  quite  entire,  20  feet  high  by  16  broad,  with  six  mulhons, 
and  a  great  deal  of  tracery  above. 

Pended  Tower  is  a  massive  oblong  building,  connecting  the 
Monastery  with  the  Palace,  and  elegantly  arched  or  pended  be- 
neath, forming  a  gateway  across  the  street,  from  which  circum- 
stance it  is  commonly  called  the  Pends  (from  pendeo,  to  hang,) 
What  remains  of  it  is  47  feet  in  height,  35  in  length  from  north 
to  south,  16  in  breadth  at  the  northern,  and  I85  at  the  southern 
arch.  There  had  been  a  gate  at  the  former  one.  The  archway 
is  groined  with  central  ornamented  keystones,  and  strong  ribbed 
arches,  and  the  windows  present  a  fine  specimen  of  the  pointed 
and  rounded  style  of  architecture. 

Abbey  Old  Church. — This  is  all  that  remains  of  the  ancient  and 
large  ecclesiastical  edifice  of  this  place,  spared  from  the  ravages 
committed  first  by  the  English  in  the  fourteenth  century,  and 
afterwards  by  the  Reformers  in  their  zeal  against  Popery. 

This  part  of  the  building  formed  the  nave  of  the  Abbey  Church 
when  completed,  or  the  vestibule  or  passage  to  the  principal  por- 
tion of  it,  where  the  choir  was,  as  it  now  does  to  the  new  place  of 
worship. 

Ancient  Eastern  Church. — The  length  of  the  choir  or  ancient 
eastern  church  within  walls  to  supposed  Lady  Aisle,  was  100  feet, 
and  to  supposed  great  altar  90  feet ;  its  breadth,  clear  of  the  co- 
lumns, 20  feet,  and  with  these  and  side  aisles,  55  feet.  The  length 
of  the  transepts  was  115,  and  their  breadth  73  feet.  The  ex- 
treme length  of  the  whole  ancient  ecclesiastical  edifice  outside 
was  275  feet,  and  its  extreme  breadth  130. 

Till  1818,  there  were  standing  four  very  tall  and  beautiful  Go- 
thic windows,  which  formed  part  of  the  north  wall  of  the  north 
transept  of  the  Abbey,  but  which  were  removed  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  building  of  the  New  Church  in  that  year. 

Royal  Tombs. —  It  is  well  known  that  the  celebrated  lona  or 
Icolmkill,  in  the  Western  Isles,  was  originally,  and,  for  many  cen- 
turies, the  place  of  royal  sepulture.  But  if  the  testimony  of  Boece 
can  be  credited  on  this  point,  as  it  has  generally  been,  Malcolm 
III.  changed  it  to  Dunfermline,  appointing  the  church  which  he 
had  built  there  to  be  thenceforth  the  common  cemetery  of  the 
kinos  of  Scotland.  It  is  certain,  too,  from  other  and  older  au- 
tliorities,  as  the  Chronicon  de  Mailros,  Chronicon  de  Lanercost, 
Fordun,  and  Winton,  that  Dunfermline  church  was  so  used  from 
the  time  of  Malcolm  III.,  during  many  succeeding  reigns.  At 


DUNFERMLINE.  853 

present,  all  that  remains,  perceptible  by  the  eye,  of  this  ancient 
and  once  splendid  royal  burying-place,  is  the  tombstone  of  Queen 
or  St  Margaret,  already  noticed,  which  is  a  large  horizontal  slab 
of  coarse  blue  marble  or  limestone,  in  two  tiers,  about  three  feet 
above  the  surface,  at  the  east  end  of  the  new  church,  outside,  co- 
vering the  spot  in  which,  it  is  understood,  were  once  deposited  not 
only  her  remains,  but  those  of  her  husband,  Malcolm  III.  There 
are  to  be  seen  on  it  six  indentures,  which,  tradition  says,  are  the 
prints  of  candlesticks,  in  which  candles  were  kept  burning;  and, 
it  is  added,  that  a  proprietor  in  Fife,  at  Pitilloch,  in  Falkland  pa- 
rish, once  paid  an  impost  for  lighting  them. 

Besides  Malcolm  III.,  his  Queen  Margaret,  and  their  eldest 
son,  Prince  Edward,  named  by  Winton  Edward  I.,  there  were, 
according  to  different  authors,  interred  at  Dunfermline,  the  fol- 
lowing royal  and  distinguished  personages  : — Edward,  eldest  son 
of  Malcolm  III.;  King  Edgar;  Alexander  I. ;  David  I.;  Mal- 
colm IV.;  Malcolm,  Earl  of  Athole  and  his  Countess,  in  the 
reign  of  William  the  Lion  ;  Alexander  III.,  and  Margaret,  his 
first  Queen  ;  David  and  Alexander,  his  sons  ;  Robert  I.,  and  Eli- 
zabeth his  Queen  ;  Mathildis,  their  daughter  ;  Annabella  Drum- 
mond,  Queen  of  Robert  III.,  and  mother  of  James  1. ;  Constan- 
tine  and  William  Ramsay,  Earls  of  Fife;  Thomas  Randolph, 
Earl  of  Murray,  nephew  of  Robert  I.,  Regent  of  Scotland  during 
the  minority  of  David  II. ;  Robert,  Duke  of  Albany,  and  Earl  of 
Fife  and  Menteith,  Governor  of  Scotland. 

It  may  be  proper  to  answer  a  very  natural  inquiry  which  is  often 
put.  What  evidence  is  there  for  believing  that  King  Robert  Bruce 
was  interred  here  ?  It  is  gratifying  to  think,  that  the  evidence  for 
this  fact  is  clear,  varied,  and  strong. 

In  the  first  place,  the  King  himself  selected  Dunfermline  as  the- 
place  of  his  sepulture.  For  it  appears  from  the  Chartulary  of 
Dunfermline  that  he  gave  the  church  of  Kinross  and  chapel  of 
Urwell  to  the  monastery  of  Dunfermline,  not  only  in  honour  of 
his  predecessors  buried  in  it,  but  on  account  of  his  own  sepulture, 
which,  it  is  said,  "  I  have  specially  chosen  among  them  ;"*  and 
again,  "  he  chose  his  own  interment  to  be  among  the  kings  of 
Scotland,  in  the  honourable  monastery  of  Dunfermline."t  Then 
Barbour  and  Fordun,  two  of  our  earliest  chroniclers,  record  that 
he  had  been  buried  here,  and  in  what  may  be  presumed,  the  very 

*  Printed  Chart,  p.  '229-30  (1315.)  f  Printed  Char.,  p.  112. 


854 


FIFESHIRE. 


spot  now  discovered,  Barbour  gives  the  following  account  of  the 
funeral : — 

(  "  I  hop  that  nane  that  is  on  lyvc* 

The  lamentacioun  suld  discryve-f- 
That  that  folk  for  thair  lard  maid.J 
And  quheti  thai  lang  thus  sorrowit  had. 
Thai  haifFhad  him  to  Dimferlyne 
And  him  solemply  erdyt§  syne 
In  a  fayr  tumb,  intill  the  quer. 
Byschappys  and  prelatis,  that  thar  wer, 
Assoilyeit||  him,  quhen  the  serwice 
Was  done  as  thai  couth  best  dewiss  :^ 
And  syne,  on  the  tothyr  day, 
Sary  and  wa  ar  went  thair  way, 
And  he  debowaillyt  was  clcnly, 
And  bawmyt  syne  richly."" 

Fordnn,  too,  who  wrote  after  Barbour,  and  who  acknowledges 
the  excellence  of  his  work,  says,  that  "  the  King  was  interred  at 
the  monastery  of  Dunfermline,  in  the  middle  of  the  choir,  with 
due  honour.''tt  And  farther,  as  quoted  by  Morton,  in  his  Monas- 
tic Annals  of  Teviotdale,  p.  232,  "  magnificently  interred  under 
the  grand  altar  of  the  church  of  Dunfermline  Abbey."J|  Both 
these  early  writers  mention  the  choir,  and  the  latter,  the  middle 
of  it,  as  the  situation  of  his  grave,  and  the  spot  found  precisely 
corresponds  with  this,  as  far  as  the  form  of  the  ancient  building  can 
be  ascertained,  for  it  is  in  a  line  with  the  exact  centre  of  the  Ab- 
bey Church. 

Farther,  it  is  well  known  that  Bruce,  in  the  view  of  his  approach- 
ing dissolution,  which  took  place  at  Cardross,  near  Dumbarton, 
on  the  7th  June  1329,  from  a  severe  disease,  then  termed  leprosy, 
at  the  age  of  fifty-five,  in  the  twenty-fourth  year  of  his  arduous 
and  glorious  reign,  reckoning  from  his  coronation  at  Scone,  took 
a  pledge  from  his  faithful  friend  Sir  James  Douglas  to  carry  his 
heart,  on  his  decease,  to  Jerusalem,  and  humbly  to  deposit  it  in 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  there,  as  the  only  mode  which 
he  then  had  of  fulfilling  a  vow,  which  he  had  made  as  soon  as  he 
restored  the  peace  and  freedom  of  his  kingdom,  to  undertake  an 
expedition  to  the  Holy  Land  against  the  enemies  of  the  Christian 
faith.    This  pledge,  the  gallant  knight,  on  the  demise  of  his  be- 

♦  Alive.  t  Describe.  J  Lord.  §  Interred. 

II  Assoilzeit.  As  King  Robert  was  excommunicated  by  the  Pope,  for  the  murder 
of  Cuming  in  DumJries,  on  account  of  treachery,  so  far  back  as  1305,  his  body  could 
not  receive  the  accustomed  rites  and  ceremonies  of  what  was  then  deemed  "  Christian 
burial"  in  consecrated  ground,  till  this  sentence  was  removed  by  ecclesiastical  authority. 
This  may  explain  what  if  here  referred  to  by  the  poet.  Some  authors,  however,  stale 
that  he  was  pardoned  in  1:^09 — Giitlirie's  Hist,  of  Scot.,  ii.  p.  205. 

^  Devise.  **  The  Bruce,  Edin.  iOJO,  4to,  B.  xiv.,  1.  871-834. 

tt  Scotichron.  xiii  13.  tt  Scoiichron.  xiii.  20,  14. 


DUNFKRMLINE. 


855 


loved  master,  immediately  went  to  redeem,  along  with  a  numerous 
retinue,  bearing  the  heart  of  the  monarch  enclosed  in  a  silver 
casket,  suspended  from  his  neck  by  a  silver  chain.  But,  in  pass- 
ing through  Spain,  in  his  progress  to  Jerusalem,  he  assisted  Al- 
phonso,  the  young  King  of  Leon  and  Castile,  against  the  Sara- 
cens, and  after  exhibiting  feats  of  valour,  he  fell  in  battle,  when 
bis  body,  with  the  casket  and  its  precious  contents,  were  conveyed 
to  Scotland,  under  the  charge  of  Sir  William  Keith,  one  of  his 
surviving  companions.  His  remains  were  interred  in  the  Church 
of  Douglas,  the  sepulchre  of  his  forefathers,  and  the  heart  of  Bruce 
was  entombed  in  Melrose  Abbey,  by  the  Earl  of  Moray,  then 
Regent  of  Scotland, 

Now,  in  order  to  carry  into  execution  this  object,  it  behoved 
the  body  of  Bruce  to  be  embalmed,  and  accordingly  it  exhibited 
full  evidence  of  having  been  so,  as  the  metrical  account  also  of  the 
funeral  by  Barbour,  just  quoted,  states  that  it  was. 

The  sternum  or  breast-bone  was  found  sawed  asunder  longitu- 
dinally from  top  to  bottom,  according  to  the  awkward  mode  adopt- 
ed by  the  anatomists  of  those  days,  for  reaching  the  heart,  with 
the  view  of  complying  with  the  sovereign's  dying  command,  and  a 
.small  box  was  discovered  in  the  vicinity,  supposed  by  some  to  con- 
tain the  entrails. 

The  whole  appearances,  too,  of  the  tomb  and  body,  as  described,  in- 
dicate them  to  have  been  those  of  a  person  of  high  consideration,  while, 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  were  found  numerous  fragments 
of  fine  white  and  black  marble  well  polished,  carved  and  gilt,  in 
all  probability  the  remains  of  a  monument  which  had  been  erected 
over  the  grave  inside  the  church,  and  which  had  been  demolished 
at  the  destruction  of  the  Abbey.  Some  of  these  exhibit  small 
ornamental  columns,  and  one  of  them  an  animal  in  a  reclining 
posture.  Along  with  a  few  of  these  in  the  Antiquarian  Museum, 
Edinburgh,  found  long  prior  to  the  discovery  of  Bruce's  tomb, 
and  erroneously  labelled  as  having  belonged  to  the  tomb  of  Mal- 
com  Canmore,  there  is  a  small  head,  cut  in  soft  bluish  stone, 
seemingly  calm  stone,  the  same  as  what  many  of  the  other  orna- 
ments are  made  of,  with  a  crown  on  it.  The  face  is  unfortunately 
destroyed,  but  there  are  large  curls  at  each  ear,  of  the  form  and 
style  seen  in  the  coins  of  Robert  the  Bruce,  so  that  there  is  every 
probability  that  this  was  meant  to  represent  his  head.  From  the 
Chamberlain  Rolls,  too,  it  appears  that  the  king  himself  had  or- 
dered, during  his  long  and  tedious  illness,  such  a  monument  to  be 


856 


FIFESHIRE. 


erected  ;  tliat  it  was  of  a  very  splendid  nature,  and  that,  proba- 
bly from  its  being  beyond  the  skill  of  the  artists  of  this  country  at 
that  period,  it  had  been  been  executed  in  Paris,  and  conveyed 
hitherto  by  the  way  of  Bruges. 

What  would  have  completed  this  body  of  evidence  to  us  would 
have  been  a  plate  with  an  actual  inscription,  signifying  that  this 
was  the  tomb  of  Bruce  ;  but  the  probability  is,  that  such  a  plate 
made  of  brass,  as  was  then  common,  with  an  inscription  round  the 
edge,  had  been  upon  the  monument,  and  carried  oflF  at  the  plun- 
der of  the  abbey,  or  destroyed.* 

Fordun  has  preserved  Bruce's  epitaph,  which  it  is  likely  was 
inscribed  upon  the  tomb,  and  which  I  have  not  seen  before  quoted. 

It  is  this — 

"  hic  jacet  invictus  robertus,  rex  benedictus, 
Qui  sua  gesta  legit,  repetit  quot  bella  peregit. 
Ad  libertatem  perduxit,  per  probitatem, 

ReGNUM  ScOTORUM  ;  nunc  VIVAT  in  ARCE  POLORUM."t 

King  Robert  Bruce's  Sword  and  Helmet. — These  interesting 
relics  are  at  Broomhall  House,  about  three  miles  south  from  the 
town.  In  the  Scots  Magazine  for  1781,  there  is  an  engraving  of 
them,  along  with  the  following  description  : — "  They  are  of  steel, 
and  they  have  acquired  a  clear  blackish  colour  from  age.  The 
sword  is  a  two-handed  one,  and  the  handle  is  covered  with  black 
leather.  Both  the  sword  and  the  helmet  were  presented  by  King 
Robert's  son,  King  David  Bruce,  to  his  cousin  Sir  Robert  Bruce 
of  Clackmannan,  and  they  have  been  preserved  in  Clackmannan 
Castle  by  the  descendants  of  this  Sir  Robert,  with  the  greatest 
veneration,  till  the  present  time.  Though  there  be  no  written 
documents  to  instruct  the  sword  and  helmet  having  been  presented 
to  Sir  Robert  Bruce,  yet  the  above  account  has  the  sanction  of 
the  universal  tradition  of  the  family  and  of  the  country  around." 

They  are  now  in  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin  and  Kin- 
cardine, having  (along  with  the  genealogical  family  tree,  dated 
1686,  which  contains  a  lengthened  history  of  the  descent  of  the 

*  A  well-executed  and  appropriate  plate,  bearing  the  appearances  of  antiquity,  was 
found  at  the  grave,  after  the  re-interment  of  Bruce,  but  it  was  satisfactorily  ascertained 
not  to  be  ancient.  It  was  the  doing  of  a  few  individuals,  as  a  jca  d'csprii,  which  would 
have  been  harmless  enough,  had  it  been  acknowledged  shortly  after  producing  its  in- 
tended effect. 

f  "  Here  lies  the  invincible  Robert,  blessed  King, 

Let  him  who  reads  his  exploits,  repeat  how  many  wars  he  carried  on  ; 
He  led  the  kingdom  of  the  Scots  to  freedom,  by  his  uprightness, 
Now  let  liini  live  in  the  citadel  of  the  Heavens." — Scotic/iioii.  viii.  IS. 

6 


DUNFERMLINE. 


85-7 


family,  but  from  its  worm-eaten  condition  now  scarcely  legible) 
been  bequeathed  to  the  late  Earl  at  the  end  of  the  last  century, 
by  Katharine  Bruce,  widow  of  Henry  Bruce,  Esq.,  last  proprietor 
of  Clackmannan,  and  direct  representative  of  that  very  ancient 
and  distinguished  house.  There  is  also  the  nuptial  bed  of  Queen 
Anne  of  Denmark,  at  Broomhall  House,  and  her  amry  at  Logie 
House. 

Mr  PatorCs  Collection  of  Antiquities. — This  collection  is  most 
interesting  and  valuable,  and,  perhaps  of  the  kind,  unequalled  by 
any  in  Scotland,  in  the  hands  of  a  private  collector.  It  consists 
of  several  curious  and  ancient  pieces  of  furniture,  believed  to  have 
belonged  fo  Dunfermline  Palace,  along  with  others  from  Holy- 
rood,  Linlithgow,  Stirling,  and  Falkland  Palaces,  Lochleven  Cas- 
tle, &c.,  collected  by  Mr  Joseph  N,  Paton,  and  contained  in  his 
cottage  in  Wooer's  Alley,  situated  at  the  head  of  a  deep  ravine 
towards  the  north-west  of  the  town.  Some  articles  from  this  pa- 
lace, which  once  belonged  to  the  collection,  were  procured  from 
him  some  years  ago,  for  his  late  Majesty  George  IV. 

Monastery, — The  monastery  of  Dunfermline  is  generally  be- 
lieved to  have  been  founded  by  King  Malcolm  III.,  towards  the 
end  of  the  eleventh  century.  The  authority  for  this  rests  on  King 
David's  confirmations  of  his  father's  grants,  recorded  in  the  Char- 
tulary,  as  well  as  on  the  fact,  of  which  evidence  has  been  produced 
of  Malcolm  having  built  a  church  here,  which  itself  is  sometimes 
styled  the  Monastery. 

The  monastery  was  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity  ;  and  Queen 
Margaret,  who  died  in  1093,  was  afterwards  raised  to  the  rank  of 
tutelar  saint. 

LIST  OF  ABBOTS. 

Duration  of  „  Causes  of 

Abbotship.  Removal. 
A.  D. 

1128-1154  Galfrid  I.  (Galfridus,  Gosfrid,  or  Geoffry),  .Died 

1154-1178  Galfrid  II   Died.' 

III.  1178-1198  .Archibald  (Erkenbaldus,  Archombaldus),...  Died 

IV.  1198-1202  Robert  I.  de  Berewick,    Denosed 

V.  1202-1223  Patrick  I  !  ....  S 

VI.  1223   William  I   Died 

Tii.        1223-1238  William  II   Died 

VIII.       1238-1240  Gaufrid  III   Died 

^-    SS:::::::;;^?  Keideiecbv:::::;;:::::::;;:::::::R.^^^^^ 

XI.  1256-1270  Matthew, 

XII.  1270-1275  Simon,  Deposed 

xm.       1275-1296)        „  ,  ,        ,  iJeposed. 

(at  least)  \       •  "alph  (Radulphus  de  Grenlaw). 


II. 


8j8 


FIFESHIRE. 


LIST  OF  ABBOTS. — Continued. 

Duration  of 

Abbotship.  Names.  Causes  of 

A.  D.  *  Removal. 

1309-1313)        „  , 
(at  least)  \  ""g^' 
XV.        1316-1327)         „  ^      TTT  J   ^  .. 

(at  least)  \         Robert  III.  de  Crail. 

TVi,  1331-1353   Alexander  I.  de  Ber,    Died. 

xvn.   John  II.  Blak. 

xviii,   John  III.  of  Stramiglaw. 

XIX.  1363.   John  IV. 

XX.  1363  John  V.  of  Balyeirnach. 

XXI.  1380-1395 )         T  TTr 

(at  least)  | 

XXII.  1399-1409)         ,  , 

(at  least)  \n.  de  Torry. 

xxiii.    14I3-I4I9  „,.,,.      ,„   ,  „ 

(at  least)  1         William  III.  de  Sancto  Andrea, 

XXIV.  1437-1442  .  , 

(at  least)  (         ^''^"'^  ^■ 

XXV.  1445-1472  Richard  de  Bothuel. 

XXVI.  1472-1482  Henry  Creichtoun. 

XXVII.  1483-1490  Adam. 

XXVIII.  1494-1499  George  I. 

XXIX.  1500  I  Tj   u    »  n,  1 

(at  least)  [         Robert  IV.  Blacader. 

XXX.  1502-1504  James  I.  Stuart   Died 

XXXI.  1504-1510  »        T        TT  T.  r.  ^ 

or  J511  f  James  II.  Beton  or  Bethune,  Resigned. 

xxxti.    151 1-1513  Alexander  II.  Stuart   \  ^'*T 

'■■  (  battle. 

xxxiii.  1515-1516  James  III.  Hepburn,   Resigned. 

XXXIV.  1516-1522  Andrew  II.  Forman,  Died. 

XXXV.  1522-1539  James  II.  Beton  or  Bethune  (nffain),   Died. 

XXXVI.  1539-1561  ?         r-         tt  r.  ^.  , 

or  later  {        George  II.  Dury,  D.ed. 

xxxvii.  1584  Robert  V.  Pitcairn,    \  Bapi^hed 

/  and  died. 

xxxvni.  lo85-1587  Patrick  II.  Gray,  Master  of  Gray,  the  7th  • 

Lord  Gray,  Banished. 

XXXIX.    1587   George  III.  Gordon,  the  6th  Earl  of  Huntly,... Resigned. 

In  1593  the  Abbacy  was  perpetually  annexed  to  the  Crown. 

The  Abbey  long  enjoyed  a  high  celebrity,  partly  on  account  of 
its  preserving  the  relics  of  St  Margaret,  the  tutelar  saint,  and  of 
its  being  the  place  of  royal  sepulture,  and  partly  from  the  magni- 
tude and  splendour  of  its  buildings,  and  its  great  wealth.  It 
seems  to  have  attained  its  highest  repute  about  the  middle  and 
close  of  the  13th  century,  during  the  long  and  prosperous  reign 
of  Alexander  III.,  when  it  had  become  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent and  opulent  monastic  establishments  in  Scotland.  In- 
deed, Matthew  of  Westminster,  an  English  historian  of  that 
period,  says,  in  regard  to  its  extent,  that  its  limits  were  so  ample 
as  to  contain  within  its  precincts  three  carucates  of  land,  (or  as 
much  arable  ground  as  could  be  tilled  with  three  ploughs  in  a 
year),  and  so  many  princely  edifices,  that  three  distinguished 


DUNFERMLINE. 


859 


sovereigns,  with  their  retinue,  miofht  be  accommodated  with 
lodgings  at  the  same  time,  without  inconvenience  to  one  an- 
other. 

Of  its  wealth  we  may  form  an  idea,  when  it  is  mentioned,  that 
almost  the  whole  of  the  lands  in  the  western,  and  part  of  those 
in .  the  southern  and  eastern  districts  of  Fife,  various  lands  in 
other  counties,  and  at  one  time  the  barony  of  Musselburgh  (then 
denominated  Musselburghshire),  in  Mid- Lothian,  belonged  to  it. 
This  last  place,  however,  was  afterwards  separated  from  it,  and 
converted  into  a  distinct  lordship,  in  favour  of  the  Lord  Chan- 
cellor Thirlestane.  The  following  are  some  of  the  remote  places 
from  which  its  ample  revenues  were  derived,  conferred  either  by 
Scottish  sovereigns  or  opulent  subjects,  clerical  or  lay,  at  various 
periods,  from  motives  of  gratitude  or  piety  : — Kildun,  near  Ding- 
wall, Buckhaven,  Carnbee,  Crail,  Newburn,  Kinglassie,  Kirkcaldy, 
Abbotshall,  Kinghorn,  Burntisland,  named  also  Wester- Kinghorn, 
Kinross,  Orwell,  Perth,  Scone,  Bendothy,  Kirkmichael,  Dun- 
keld,  Dollar,  Tillicoultry,  Clackmannan,  Stirling,  Logie,  near 
Stirling,  Linlithgow,  Cramond,  Liberton,  Maistertoun,  in  New- 
bottle,  Newton,  Inveresk,  Musselburgh,  Tranent,  Haddington, 
Berwick,  Coldingham,  Roxburgh,  Renfrew;  besides  the  imme- 
diately contiguous  parishes,  Inverkeithing,  Beath,  Saline,  Cleish, 
Carnock,  Torryburn,  and,  of  course,  Dunfermline  itself. 

Churches  and  Chapels  of  the  Monastery. — The  following  is  an 
Alphabetical  List  of  all  the  Churches  and  Chapels,  the  patronage 
of  which  belonged  to  the  Monastery  of  Dunfermline,  along, 
generally,  with  a  right  to  the  teinds  and  lands  pertaining  to  them. 
The  names  of  the  donors,  too,  and  the  dates  of  the  donation,  are 
given,  so  far  as  these  can  be  ascertained.  Exact  accuracy,  how- 
ever, as  to  these  is  unattainable,  as  the  fact  of  the  donation  is 
often  mentioned,  only  in  a  charter  of  confirmation,  and  there  left 
quite  general : — 

No.    Names  of  Churches  and  Chapels.  Donors,  Dates. 

I.  Abercrombie        (Crombie))  ,    ,     tit  , ,  ^« 

Chapel,  Torryburn,  Fife,  (  ^'"S  Malcolm  IV.,   1153-1 163. 

II.  Abercrombie  Church   Malcolm,  7th  Earl  of  Fife,  1203-1214. 

in.       Bendachin  (Bendothy, 

Perthshire  

IV.  Calder   (Kaledour),    Edin- 1  Duncan,  5th  F.arl  of  Fife, ) 

burghshire,  \     and  Ela,  his  Countess,  M'^*' 

V.  Carnbee,  Fife   1561. 

VI.  Cleish    Church   or  Chapel, 
Fife, 


Before  1 21 9. 


Cousland  Chapel  (parish  of 
Cranston,  East  Lothian), 


Malcolm,  7th  Earl  of  Fife,  1203-1229. 
  Before  1 1.59. 


860 
No, 

VIII. 

IX. 
X. 

zi. 

XII. 

XIII. 
XIV. 
XT. 
XVI. 

XVII. 

xvm. 

XIX. 
XX. 

XXI. 

XX  n. 

XXIII. 

XXIV. 
XXV. 

XXTI. 


Dates. 


FIFESHIRE, 

Names  of  Churches  and  Chapels.  Donors. 
Dunipaco  Chapel  (parish  of) 

Larbert,  Stirlingshire),  ...  f    Before  1163 

s'lctfEdrnt^^: King  .Malcolm  IV.,   „53_n65.' 

Glinen,  perhaps  in  Terth- )  before  1560. 

shire,  \  King  Malcolm  IV.,   1I53-1I65. 


Hailes    (Cohnton),    Kdin- )  Ethelred,  son  of  Malcolm) 

burghshire,                            Canmore   1093-1124. 

Invercsk,  Edinburghshire,...    King  David  I.,....;;;;  '  1 194_l ,  ,n 

Keith  (Humbie),  Hadding.)     .  ' 1J53-1165, 

tonshire,                           |  King  Alexander  I.,   II07  1124 

Kellin,  (Kelly),  Fife,  sup 
pressed,   

Kinross, 


King  Malcolm  IV.,   1153-1165. 

jr-    ■       /.  .  ,  .   „ King  Robert  I.,   laiK 

Kingborn  (Little),  Fife,   ' 

Kinghorn  Wester,  or  B„rnt-  1  """^"^^  1188. 


Wester,  or  Burnt- 
island, Fife,. 


1184. 


Kirkcaldy,  Fife,   King  David  I.,   1124-1152 

Kmgiassie,  I'ife,    Ji-^^iJO^. 

Melville  (now  Lasswade  and  )  '  '^8- 

Dalkeith),   |  Galfridus  de  Maleville   ijgg 

Nr^lini'^rJlfiji^f^-""''-    f:''°]r'r''        °f  ^thole,  About  UTO.' 

Jonn  de  Orahame,  

Elwinus  Renner,  and  Ada, 


Newlands,  Perthshire   ^  John  de  Grahame,  .'    In  1317. 

Newton,  Edinburghshire, ... 
Newburn,  Fife«  


XXVII. 

xxviu.  North  Qiieensferry  Chapei, 

xxi.x.     Orwell,  Kinross-shire,  

XXX,     Perth  (St  John  Baptist), 

xxxL    .......  St.  Leonard's,  

xxxn  Chapel  of  the  Castle, .. 

xxxm. )  o  •  1- 

XXXIV.  (  ^""'"g)  two  churches,  ... 
xx.w. 


his  wife,  !  'I  Before  1164. 

King  David  I.,   1124-1152 

King  Robert  L,   1306-1328 

King  Robert  I.,   In  1315. 

King  David  I.,    1124-1152. 

  Before  1163. 

  1164. 

King  David  I.,   1124-1152. 

Stirling,     Chapel    of    the)  „. 

Castle,   (  •^'"g  Alexander  I,   1107-1124. 

xx.xvi.  Strathardolf    (Kirkmichael,    tt-  ■„ 

Perthshire)  t  King  William  the  Lion,   1165-1189. 

XXXVII.  Wymet  (annexed  to  Newton, )  „. 

Edinburghshire),   \  King  David  I.,   1124-1152. 

The  cells  or  priories  of  Urquhart  and  Pluscardine,  in  Moray- 
shire, and  of  Coldingham  in  Berwickshire,  anciently  belonged  to 
the  monastery  of  Dunfermline. 

_  Privilege  of  Regalihj.—T\\e  abbey  possessed  the  very  important 
right  or  privilege  of  a  free  regality,  that  is,  had  an  exclusive  civil 
and  criminal  jurisdiction  over  the  occupiers  of  lands  belonging  to 
it. 

The  civil  jurisdiction  of  the  regality  was  equivalent  to  that  of 
a  sheriff,  but  its  criminal  was  royal,  having  power  of  life  and  death. 
The  abbot,  as  the  Lord  of  regality,  did  not  usually  preside  in  the 
court  himself,  but  he  appointed  a  bailie  to  officiate  for  him,  who 
could  try  capital  offences.  And  such  was  the  power  of  tiie  ab- 
bot's court,  that  if  any  accused  per'son,  residing  within  the  terri- 
tory of  the  regality,  were  taken  to  another  court,  the  abbot  could,  by 


DUNFERMLINE. 


861 


himself  or  procurator,  appear  before  that  other  court,  however  high, 
even  of  the  King's  justiciar,  and  repledge,  as  it  was  called,  or  ju- 
dicially demand  back  the  delinquent  to  be  tried  before  the  tribunal 
of  his  own  district.  As  early  as  the  reign  of  Da.vid  L,  offenders, 
within  the  territories  of  the  abbey  are  declared  to  be  amenable 
only  to  the  court  of  the  Holy  Trinity  and  the  abbot  of  Dunferm- 
line. James  II.,  at  the  instance  of  abbot  Richard  Bothwell, 
exempted  the  abbey  from  the  obligation  of  appearing  before 
his  courts  in  Fife  and  Clackmannan,  by  reason  of  the  lands  of 
Luscreviot  and  Dollar,  which  belonged  to  it,  and  he  granted  a 
letter,  empowering  the  abbey  to  repledge  any  inhabitants  of  these 
lands,  detained  by  his  courts  to  the  court,  of  regality,  in  1449. 
This  baneful  privilege,  it  would  appear,  had  been  extended  to  a 
particular  family  of  the  name  of  Makaroun  or  Kynmacaroun ; 
but,  in  consequence  of  the  murmurs  of  the  country,  and  for  brid- 
ling the  multitude  of  transgressors  pretending  to  be  of  the  same 
race,  the  King  found  it  expedient  to  abolish  this  power  possessed 
by  the  monastery  in  their  case.  However  he  removed  the  restric- 
tion in  1459. 

At  the  Reformation,  in  1560,  the  peculiar  power  of  Regality, 
possessed  by  the  monastery,  did  not  cease.  It  only  passed  into 
other  hands,  those  of  influential  noblemen,  who  also  received  much 
of  the  temporal  property  of  the  extruded  monks. 

The  jurisdiction  in  question,  along  with  the  lands  of  the  mona- 
stery, first  devolved  on  Robert  Pitcairn,  archdean  of  St  Andrews, 
who  held  them  in  commendam,  or  trust,  and  who  afterwards  be- 
came Secretary  of  State  to  James  VI. 

In  1580,  four  years  before  the  decease  of  this  person,  when  he 
had  reached  an  advanced  age,  he  and  the  convent  of  Dunfermline 
created  the  office  of  Heritable  Bailie  of  the  Regality,  and  by  char- 
ter, dated  15th  November  of  that  year,  conferred  it  on  David 
Durie  of  Durie,  (the  nephew,  it  is  supposed,  of  George,  the  for- 
mer abbot,  and  who  had  previously  exercised  the  office  of  regality 
bailie  under  the  abbot,  but  without  any  written  title  to  it),  and  his 
heirs-male  in  fee,  and  in  inheritance  for  ever. 

In  1596,  David  Durie,  the  original  bailie,  with  consent  of  his 
eldest  son  and  heir-apparent,  resigned  his  office  and  its  emolu- 
ments into  the  hands  of  Queen  Anne,  as  lady  of  Dunfermline,  in 
favour  of,  and  for  new  infeftment  of  the  same,  to  be  made  and- 
granted  to  Alexander  Seton,  President  of  the  Court  of  Session, 
by  the  title  of  Lord  Urquhart,  afterwards  Earl  of  Dunfermline. 


862 

FIFESHIRE. 


of  T^'""!'!®"/  "'f  '■^"''"'"f  "«=  "„w„.|ease  in  favour 
T„  '^^'""'^  '""""S  -^""^  '0  an  end,  the  Maroul  „ 

Tweedd,  e  agam  applied  for  it,  but  without  success,i„  con  ruence 

the^  dX  ''tTr ''"™° "'^^ '"^  " 

ess  of  RotL  a-<-^di"glj  granted  to  the  Coun- 

se  ves  and  the  r  =f  f'l'^'S"',  and  others,  as  trustees  for  them, 
selves  and  the  rest  of  their  vassals,  to  endure  for  nineteen  years 
co„g  „,t   crop  .780,  at  the  yearly  rent  of  L..or  '  ' 
lisheV-  ^  ;  """"  j^^^dictions  of  Scotland  were  all  abo- 

hshed,  but  compensations  were  given  to  the  respective  parties 
concerned,  according  to  the  opinion  of  the  Court  of  Session  as  to 
the  amount  of  loss  during  life  sustained  by  them.    The  w I " 

h  , 't."^"?"'"'      ""^  P"P°^^-       about  Sot 
out  of  which  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale  received  L.  2672,  7s  a 
the  value  of  the  bailiary  of  the  regality  of  Dunferndine,  ^nd  M 
W  I  ham  Black  L.500,  as  that  of  his  office,  as  clerk  t^  the  re- 
gaiity. 

of  f "  ''^^^'"'y^  -I-  that 

o  Consiabie,  or  Keeper  of  the  Palace,  and  other  royal  edifices,  and 

of   hjl'r'"%r  -^--ds,  for  the  n^aintenance 

of  which  office  the  te.nds  of  Masterton  and  Pitliver  were  paid. 

There  was  also  the  heritable  office  of  Mayor,  or  SerjLt,  af- 
erwards  nan^ed  Pro.ost,  or  Head  officer  of  the  regality' institut- 
ed n  lo79,  a  year  before  that  of  heritable  bailie.  He  was  irame- 
diately  below  the  depute-bailie,  and,  on  some  occasions  which  are 
spec.faed,  he  was  empowered  to  exercise  a  certain  measure  of 
civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction. 

There  was  lastly  the  office  of  Heritable  Admiral  of  the  whole 
lordship  of  Dunfermline,  except  Musselburgh,  once  held  by  Lu- 
dovick,  Duke  of  Lennox,  Great  Admiral  of  Scotland,  but  resign- 
/  Z"""  ^^'^  December  1612,  to  Queen  Anne  of  Den- 
mark.  1  he  duties  of  this  office  would  have  reference  to  the 
shipping,  fishing,  &c.  on  the  water  adjoining  to  the  lands  of  the 
regality,  and  there  were  certain  perquisites  attached  to  it. 

All  these  offices  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Dun- 
fermhne,  and  subsequently  of  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale  Al 
though  none  of  the  offices  any  longer  exist,  the  Tweeddale  family 
still  enjoy  the  fees  or  salaries,  which  originally  belonged  to  them' 
and  collect  them  under  their  respective  names  of  bailie,  consta*- 


DUNFERMLINE. 


863 


ble,  Serjeant  or  mayor  fees.    None,  I  believe,  are  now  paid  as  ad- 
miralty fees,  these  not  being  derivable  from  land. 

Memorable  Historical  Events.— Only  a  few  of  these  can  be 
briefly  noticed. 

The  Chartulary  records  one  important  fact  respecting  the  ho- 
mage formerly  claimed  by  England  from  the  Scottish  Kmgs.  It 
is  a  deed  "  concerning  the  homage  which  Alexander  III.,  Kmg 
of  Scots,  paid  to  Edward  I.,  King  of  England,  for  his  lands  which 
he  held  in  the  kingdom  of  England."    This  was  in  1278. 

Edward  1.  visited  Dunfermline  in  1291, 1296,  1303,  and  1304. 
In  1303,  he  took  up  his  winter  quarters  here,  where  he  was 
joined  by  his  Queen  and  a  part  of  his  nobility,  and  employed 
himself  in  receiving  the  submission  of  those  Scottish  barons 
and  great  men  who  had  not  made  their  peace  during  his  pro- 
gress througli-the  kingdom  in  1296.  It  was  at  this  period,  also, 
previous  to  his  departure,  which,  according  to  some,  took  place  in 
February,  and  others  in  March  following,  that  his  soldiers,  doubt- 
less by  his  orders  or  with  his  approbation,  shewed  their  gratitude 
for  the  ample  and  magnificent  accommodation  which  they  had  so 
long  enjoyed  here,  by  setting  fire  to  the  Abbey,  whereby  it  was 
reduced  to  a  shadow  of  what  it  formerly  was. 

On  the  4th  March  1323,  Robert  Bruce  had  a  son  born  to  him 
in  Dunfermline,  when  the  palace  must  have  been  in  some  degree 
repaired,  who,  after  a  long  minority,  ascended  the  throne  under 
the  title  of  David  II. 

In  1385,  a  large  body  of  Frenchmen  were  lodged  in  Dunferm- 
line, as  there  were  in  some  other  inland  towns,  as  Queensferry, 
Kelso,  Dunbar,  and  Dalkeith,  Edinburgh  not  being  able  to  accom- 
modate them  all,  on  the  occasion  of  John  de  Vienne,  the  famous 
admiral  of  France,  having  come  over  to  this  country  in  the  reign 
of  Robert  II.,  in  consequence  of  an  application  from  the  Scots  to 
the  regency  of  the  French  King,  Charles  VI.,  with  a  great  number 
of  knights  and  others,  the  flower  of  the  French  army,  and  of  private 
soldiers,  to  assist  the  Scots  in  the  invasion  of  England. 

On  this  occasion,  too,  Froissart  mentions  that  Richard  II.  of 
England  having  burned  Edinburgh,  "  he  and  his  Lords  went  to 
Dunfermline,  a  tolerably  handsome  town,  where  is  a  large  and 
fair  abbey  of  black  monks,  in  which  the  Kings  of  Scotland  have 
been  accustomed  to  be  buried.  The  King  was  lodged  in  the  ab- 
bey, but  after  his  departure,  the  army  seized  it  and  burnt  both 
that  and  the  town."    Hume  says,  generally,  that  the  King  *'  treat- 


864 


FIFESHIRE. 


ed  in  the  same  manner  Perth,  Dundee,  and  other  places  in  the 
low  countries." 

On  the  28th  January  1581,  the  Second  Coi  fession  of  Faith, 
sometimes  called  Craig's  Confession  of  Faith,  because  drawn  up 
by  John  Craig,  or  the  King's  Confession,  because  signed  by  him, 
or  the  First  National  Covenant  of  Scotland,  and  which  is  em- 
bodied in  all  the  subsequent  National  Covenants  entered  into  by 
the  Scottish  Church  and  people,  was  subscribed  by  James  VI. 
and  all  his  household,  at  Dunfermline. 

Between  1.582  and  1585,  three  Danish  ambassadors  of  noble 
birth,  and  splendidly  attended,  arrived  in  Scotland,  and  were  in- 
troduced to  King  James  VI.,  at  Dunfermline,  where  they  con- 
gratulated his  Majesty,  in  the  King  their  master's  name,  with  a 
long  discourse  of  the  old  amity  bond,  and  mutual  friendship,  be- 
tween the  two  kings,  and  their  kingdoms.  They  also  presented 
their  claim,  respecting  the  restoration  of  Orkney  and  Shetland  to 
the  Danish  crown. 

In  1596,  a  Convention  of  the  "  Estates"  was  held  here,  for  the 
purpose  of  recalling  the  Popish  Lords,  who  had  been  banished  for 
a  conspiracy  ;  and  the  Princess  Elizabeth  was  born  at  the  palace, 
on  the  1 9th  August,  first  daughter  of  his  Majesty,  afterwards 
Queen  of  Bohemia,  whose  baptism  the  Convention  appointed  to 
take  place  at  Holyroodhouse,  on  the  28th  of  November  follow- 
ing. 

On  19th  November  1600,  King  Charles  I.  was  born  here. 

In  1624,  a  great  fire  took  place,  which  nearly  consumed  the 
town ;  the  houses,  at  that  period,  being  almost  entirely  composed 
of  wood,  at  least  from  the  second  story.  Its  ravages  were  chiefly 
on  the  north  side  of  the  ancient  pillory,  at  the  prison,  to  the  east 
port.  The  town  was  reduced  to  such  poverty  by  this  calamity, 
that  it  was  obliged  to  supplicate  assistance  from  the  community 
of  Scotland  at  large. 

In  1638,  during  the  months  of  March  and  April,  m  the  reign 
of  Charles  I.,  the  Covenant,  as  drawn  up  by  Alexander  Hender- 
son and  Johnston  of  Warriston,  was  subscribed  at  Dunfermline, 
by  the  nobility,  gentlemen,  burgesses,  and  commons  in  the  parish. 
The  document  containing  it  is  still  extant  here,  and  is  written  on 
a  very  lar^e  sheet  of  vellum  parchment.  Among  the  signatures 
are  Dunfermlyne  (Charles  Seton,  Earl  of  Dunfermline)  ;  Sir 
Robt.  Halkett,  Pitferrane ;  James  Durie,  Cra.gluscar ;  Robert 
Ged;  R.  Ged  younger;  Henry  Wardlaw  of  Pitreavie ;  Wilham 


DUMFEUMLINE. 


865 


Wardlaw  of  Balmule;  Johne  Stanehouse,  and  Mr  Samuel  Row, 
then  assistant  minister  at  Dunfermline. 

In  1643,  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant,  a  mutual  bond  of 
union  which  had  that  year  been  entered  into  between  England  and 
Scotland,  for  the  better  protection  of  the  Protestant  religion,  pre- 
vention of  the  spread  and  ascendency  of  Popery  and  Prelacy,  and 
the  preservation  of  the  liberties  of  the  kingdom  in  peace  and  unity, — 
a  document  which  has  been  characterized  by  our  latest  church  his- 
torian as  "  the  noblest,  in  its  essential  nature  and  principles,  of  all 
that  are  recorded  among  the  national  transactions  of  the  world," — 
was  sworn  and  subscribed  at  Dunfermline,  on  the  5th,  6th,  7th,  8th, 
and  12th  days  of  November  of  that  year.  This  Covenant  contains 
most  of  the  signatures  already  mentioned  as  attached  to  the  for- 
mer Covenant,  with  several  new  ones,  among  which  are  those  of 
Mr  Robert  Kay,  then  minister  at  Dumbarton,  and  two  years  after- 
wards at  Dunfermline,  Robert  Anderson,  reader  of  God's  word, 
and  a  great  many  more,  many  of  them  written  in  the  same  hand, 
probably  for  those  who  were  unable  to  write.  It  is  printed,  and 
contained  in  a  quarto  bound  book,  having  on  one  of  the  boards, 
"  For  the  Kirk  of  Dunfermling." 

In  1645,  the  plague  raged  in  the  parish,  and  carried  off  num- 
bers, of  which  there  are  several  notices  in  the  kirk-session  records. 

In  1650,  Charles  II.,  soon  after  his  accession  to  the  throne,  on 
the  decapitation  of  his  father  in  January  1649,  subscribed  at  Dun- 
fermline, with  apparent,  but  only  feigned,  sincerity,  a  most  re- 
markable declaration,  confirmatory  of  his  form6r  oath  to  adhere 
to  both  covenants.  This  has  been  styled  "  The  Dunfermline 
Declaration,"  and  is  dated  16th  August  1650. 

In  February  1651,  there  was  a  great  dearth  in  Dunfermhne. 

In  July  1651,  a  battle  was  fought  near  Pitreavie  House  in  this 
parish,  between  the  army  of  Cromwell  and  that  of  Charles  II., 
when  the  former  crossed  the  Frith  at  Queensferry,  on  their  march 
northward  to  Perth,  in  order  to  cut  off  the  royal  resources  from 
the  King,  then  at  Torwood,  in  the  vicinity  of  Stirling,  an  engage- 
ment which  in  its  consequences  proved  very  disastrous  to  the  Scots. 
It  has  been  called  "  the  Battle  of  Fife,"  and  sometimes  also, 
"  the  Battle  of  Inverkeithing,"  and  "  Battle  of  Pitreavie ;"— the 
first  action  having  been  fought  near  Inverkeithing,  and  then  con- 
tinued up  to  Pitreavie,  where  the  chief  slaughter  took  place. 

The  English  soldiers,  after  their  victory,  indulged  in  many  acts 
of  annoying  petty  plunder. 

FIFE.  3 1 


866 


FIFESIIIRE. 


1670.  In  the  middle  of  June  of  this  year,  a  conventicle  or 
field-meeting  was  held  at  Beath-hill,  partly  in  this  parish,  which 
produced  a  great  sensation.  It  was  kept  by  Mr  John  Blackadder, 
the  ejected  minister  of  Troqueer,  and  Mr  John  Dickson,  the 
ejected  minister  of  Rutherglen. 

On  the  24th  October  1715,  about  a  month  before  the  battle 
of  Sheriffmuir,  fought  in  the  attempt  of  the  old  Pretender,  James 
VIIL,  to  ascend  the  throne,  there  was  a  surprisal  of  a  Jacobite 
detachment  at  Dunfermline. 

Eminent  Persons. — Alexander  Seton,  first  Earl  of  Dunfermline,  a 
branch  of  the  noble  family  of  Seton,  Earls  of  Winton.  He  was  the 
fourth  son  of  George,  sixth  Lord  Seton,  and  was  born  about  the 
year  1555.  Queen  Mary,  who  was  his  god-mother,  presented  to 
him,  "  ane  god-bairne  gift,  the  lands  of  Pluscarty  in  Moray." 

From  the  royal  favour  which  he  enjoyed  on  his  own  and  his  fa- 
ther's account,  he  was  appointed  on  27th  January  1585,  an  Extra- 
ordinary Lord,  by  the  style  of  Prior  of  Pluscardine,  and  on  16th 
February  1587,  being  then  Baron  of  Urquhart,  he  was  promoted 
to  the  place  of  an  ordinary  senator  of  the  College  of  Justice,  un- 
der the  style  of  Lord  Urquhart.    He  was  created  Earl  of  Dun- 
fermline in  1605,  and  admitted  a  member  of  the  English  Privy 
Council  in  1609.    He  represented  the  Royal  Person  in  the  Par- 
liament held  on  24th  October  1612,  wherein  the  obnoxious  pre- 
latic  acts  of  the  General  Assembly,  held  at  Glasgow  in  June  1610, 
were  ratified,  and  the  act  of  Parliament  1592,  establishing  pres- 
byteries, is  asserted  to  have  been  rescinded.    In  1613  he  built 
Pinkie  House,  near  Musselburgh,  or  rather  converted  the  old  one, 
which  was  a  country  mansion  belonging  to  the  abbots  of  Dunferm- 
line, who  were  at  an  early  period  superiors  of  Musselburgh,  into 
its  present  shape,  on  the  front  of  which  is  the  following  inscription, 
now  hid  by  a  portico,  as  translated  into  English,  and  which  seems 
to  savour  a  little  of  vanity  :— "  Lord  Alexander  Seton  built  this 
house,  not  after  the  fashion  of  his  mind,  but  after  that  of  his  for- 
tunes and  estates,  1613."    Here  he  died  on  the  16th  June  1622, 
in  the  sixty-seventh  year  of  his  age,  and  was  interred  on  the  19th 
July  following,  with  all  funeral  solemnity,  in  his  burial-place  in  a 
vault  of  the  old  parish  church  of  Dalgety,  now  in  ruins,  on  one  of 
the  small  galleries  of  which  were  emblazoned  the  family  arms. 

The  Right  Honourable  James  Abercromby,  born  1776,  Speaker 
of  the  House  of  Commons  1835-39,  and  third  son  of  the  gallant 
Sir  Ralph  Abercromby,  who  was  killed  at  Aboukir  in  1801,  was 


DUNFERMI-INE. 


867 


created  in  1839  a  British  Baron,  by  the  title  of  "  Lord  Dunferm- 
line." 

Broomhall  Family. — This  family  trace  their  origin  to  Robert 
de  Brus,  a  kinght  of  Normandy,  who  came  over  to  England  with 
William  the  Conqueror,  and  claim  to  be  the  representatives  of  the 
male  line  of  the  illustrious  house  of  Bruce,  although  the  exact 
connection  with  the  monarchy  has  been  lost.   The  lands  of  Broom- 
hall,  formerly  Wester  Gellet,  about  three  miles  south  from  the 
town  of  Dunfermline,  appear  to  have  been  possessed,  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  seventeenth  century,  by  Sir  George  Bruce  of  Car- 
nock,  who  gave  them  to  his  son  Robert.    Sir  George,  from  whom 
the  Elgin  family  is  descended,  in  a  direct  male  line,  was  the 
youngest  of  three  sons  of  Edward  Bruce  of  Blairhall,  Esq.,  who 
lived  in  the  reigns  of  James  V.  and  Queen  Mary.    The  eldest 
succeeded  to  Blairhall,  which  line  ended  in  an  heiress,  Mary,  who 
married  one  of  the  family  of  Stuarts  of  Bute,  and  died  in  1759. 
Edward,  the  second  son,  was  an  eminent  lawyer,  and  built  the 
house  now  called  the  Abbey  of  Culross,  so  named  from  its  being  si- 
tuated near  the  old  abbey  or  monastery.    He  was  an  ambassador  to 
Queen  Elizabeth  in  1594,  and  was  of  much  service  to  James  VI.,  on 
his  accession  to  the  English  throne.    Having  followed  his  royal 
master  to  England,  he  was  made  by  him  Master  of  the  Rolls,  and 
created  Baron  Bruce  of  Kinloss  in  1603.    His  eldest  son  was 
killed  in  the  duel  with  Sir  Edward  Sackville,  and  the  son's  heart 
is  buried  at  Culross. 

The  late  Earl,  Thomas  Bruce,  succeeded  his  brother  Willia'm 
Robert,  who  enjoyed  the  title  only  two  months,  and  died  in  the 
eighth  year  of  his  age,  on  the  15th  July  1771.    Earl  Thomas 
was  long  one  of  the  representative  Peers  of  Scotland  ;  a  lieutenant- 
general  in  the  army  ;  a  general  of  the  Royal  Archers  of  Scotland  ; 
a  family  trustee  of  the  British  Museum";  and  a  member  of  the 
Privy  Council.    He  was  ambassador  at  Constantinople  in  1799- 
1801,  when,  in  his  zeal  for  the  6ne  arts,  he  rescued  the  marbles 
of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens  from  the  destruction  which  awaited 
them,  and  secured  them  as  an  invaluable  possession  for  Great 
Bntam     Having  been  purchased  from  him  by  Government  for 
about  L.30,000-a  sum,  however,  which  it  is  understood  was 
only  about  half  of  what  they  cost  him-they  have  been  perma- 
nently deposited  in  the  British  Museum,  and  bear  the  name  of 
"  The  Elgm  Marbles."    His  Lordship  was  a  liberal  patron,  not 
only  of  the  fine  arts,  but  of  science,  literature,  and  antiquarian 


868 


FIPESHIUE. 


researches.  He  established  excellent  schools  at  his  lime  and 
coal  works,  and  was  first  president  of  the  Mechanics'  Institution 
in  Dunfermline,  as  well  as  personally  assisted  at  its  formation. 
He  was  public  spirited  and  enterprising,  carrying,  his  local  im- 
provements on  his  estate  and  works  to  an  extent  which  embar- 
rassed his  private  fortune.  He  was  liberal  and  free  from  selfishness 
in  his  charities  ;  and,  in  his  private  manners,  happily  blended  the 
suavity  of  the  private  gentleman  with  the  dignity  of  the  nobleman. 
He  died  at  Paris,  on  the  I4th  November  1841,  in  his  76th  year, 
much  regretted  by  his  tenantry  and  work-people,  by  whom  he 
was  greatly  esteemed.  He  is  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son,  by  the 
second  marriage,  James,  8th  Earl  of  Elgin,  and  12th  Earl  of 
Kincardine,  born  1811,  a  nobleman  of  very  promising  talents  and 
character,  at  present  Governor  of  Jamaica. 

Pitjirrane  Famihj. — This  is  the  most  ancient  ftimily  resident 
in  the  parish,  and  has  had  many  members  eminent  for  their  pub- 
lic services  and  private  worth.    The  first  mentioned  of  the  family 
was  David  de  Halket,  proprietor  of  the  lands  of  Lumphennans 
and  Ballingall  in  Fife,  who  lived  in  the  time  of  King  David 
Bruce,  whose  son  Philip,  designed  "  Dominus  de  Ballingall  et 
Lunfinnans,"  flourished  in  the  reign  of  Robert  H.  and  HI.,  and 
acquired  the  third  part  of  the  lands  of  Pitfirrane  from  his  cousin, 
William  de  Scott  de  Balweary,  in  1399.    To  the  deed  of  con- 
veyance John  de  Torry,  abbot  of  Dunfermline,  and  son  of  Philip, 
was  a  witness.    The  first  of  the  family  found  to  be  designed  by 
the  title  of  Pitfirrane  was  David  de  Halket,  grandson  of  Philip, 
and  son  of  Robert,  who  was  sheriff  of  Kinross  in  1372.    He  is 
mentioned  as  early  as  3d  June  1404. 

The  first  members  of  the  family  that  were  knighted  were  two 
sons  of  George  Halket,  who  lived  in  the  reigns  of  Queen  IVTary 
and  King  James  VI.  His  eldest  son,  Robert,  received  the  honour 
from  King  James  VI.,  and  was  served  heir  to  his  father,  in  the 
lands  of  Pitfirrane,  in  1595.  A  younger  son,  John,  was  knighted 
by  the  same  prince ;  and  attaching  himself  to  a  military  life,  he 
entered  the  service  of  the  States  of  Holland,  rose  to  the  rank  of 
a  colonel,  and  had  the  command  of  a  Scots  regiment  in  the 
Dutch  service.  He  was  likewise  President  of  the  Grand  Court 
Marishall,  in  Holland. 

Anne,  daughter  of  Mr  Thomas  Murray,  Provost  of  Eton,  and 
preceptor  to  Charles  I.,  and  second  wife  of  Sir  James  Halket, 
kni<rhted  at  Dalkeith,  I4th  June  1633,  was  a  lady  of  great 


DUNFERM  LINE. 


869 


natural  gifts,  which  she  had  diligently  cultivated,  and  of  decided 
religious  and  moral  character.     She  was  born  in  1622,  and, 
through  her  father's  connection  with  royalty,  was  soon  known  at 
Court,  where  she  was  held  in  high  esteem  for  her  talents,  pru- 
dence, amiableness,  and  benevolence,  as  well  as  strongr  attachment 
to  the  royal  family,  to  whom  she  made  herself  very  serviceable. 
She  was  appointed,  by  King  Charles  I.  and  his  Queen,  first  sub- 
governess,  and  afterwards,  on  the  death  of  the  Countess  of  Rox- 
burgh, governess  to  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  and  the  Princess 
Elizabeth.    Immediately  after  the  death  of  Charles  I.,  she  found 
it  prudent  to  retire  for  a  while  from  court  to  Scotland,  and  resided 
for  some  time  in  this  town  with  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Dun- 
fermline, who  always  paid  her  great  attention.    Her  scriptural 
knowledge  and  piety,  as  well  as  uncommon  activity  of  mind,  were 
her  prominent  excellencies,  of  which  she  has  left  substantial 
evidence  in  some  writings  still  extant,  particularly,  «  Meditations 
on  the  25th  Psalm  ;  Meditations  and  Prayers  upon  the  First 
Week,  with  Observations  on  each  day  of  the  Creation,  and  In- 
structions for  Youth."    (Edinburgh,  Bvo,  1778)  ;  with  a  Memoir, 
containing  many  interesting  and  pleasing  incidents  of  her  life. 
She  wrote  5  books  in  folio,  15  in  quarto,  and  one  in  octavo,  all 
of  a  religious  and  spiritual  nature.    Some  of  her  MSS.  are  still 
at  Pitfirrane. 

Elizabeth,  second  daughter  of  Sir  Charles  Halket,  who  was 
born  in  1639,  was  married  to  Sir  Plenry  Wardlaw  of  Pitreavie, 
Baronet,  in  1696,  and  died  in  1726  or  1727.  She  was  a  lady  of 
great  accomplishments,  and  has  acquired  celebrity,  as  being  con- 
sidered by  many  the  authoress  of  an  admired  poem  or  ballad, 
entitled  "  Hardyknute."  ' 

The  present  proprietor.  Sir  John  Halket,  is  the  seventh  Baronet 
of  Pitfirrane— a  commander  in  the  Royal  Navy.  His  lady, 
Amelia  Hood,  daughter  of  Colonel  Conway,  descends  from  a 
branch  of  the  Conways  of  Ragley,  who  were  elevated  to  the 
peerage,  as  Barons,  Viscounts,  and  Earls  of  Conway. 

Wardlaw  Famihj.—The  Wardlaws  claim  a  very  high  onVin, 
havmg  first  come  from  Saxony  to  England  about  the  year  500; 
and  they  derive  their  name  from  an  office  which  they  held  in  the 
law  department  under  the  Anglo-Saxon  monarchs.  '  There  were 
three  leading  branches  of  this  family— the  Torrie,  the  Luscar, 
and  the  Balmule  and  Pitreavie,  in  this  vicinity,  besides  those  of 


870 


FIFESHIHE. 


Riccarton  and  Warrieston  elsewhere.    It  is  the  third  named  with 
which  Dunfermline  parish  is  more  immediately  connected. 

Sir  Henry  Wardlaw,  the  eldest  son  of  Sir  Cuthbert  of  Balmule, 
was  the  first  designated  of  Pitreavie  (2^  miles  south-east  from 
Dunfermline),  and  was  also  of  Balmule.  He  was  in  high  favour  at 
court,  and  in  1603  was  appointed  chamberlain  to  Anne  of  Den- 
mark, Queen  of  James  VI. 

The  present  representative  of  the  family  is  Sir  William  Ward- 
law  of  Pitreavie,  the  thirteenth  Baronet,  born  1794,  residing  in 
Edinburgh. 

Admiral  Sir  Andrew  Mitchell,  K.B.,  was  the  son  of  Charles 
Mitchell  of  Pitteadie,  afterwards  of  Baldridge,  near  Dunfermline, 
and  descended  from  the  ancient  family  of  Bandeth,  Westshore, 
commonly  called  Mitchell  of  that  ilk,  and  whose  ancestors  were 
barons  of  Scotland.  He  was  born  in  this  parish  in  1757,  and 
distinguished  himself  in  the  naval  service  during  the  last  war. 
He  died  at  Bermuda  in  February  1806. 

Arnald  Blair,  a  monk  of  Dunfermline,  was  Chaplain  to  Sir 
William  Wallace,  and  author  of  two  Latin  works,  entitled  "  Re- 
lationes  quaedam  Arnaldi  Blair,  monachi  de  Dunfermling,  et  ca- 
pellani  D.  Willielmi  Wallas,  Militis,  A.  D.  1327,"  which  begins 
with  Sir  William  Wallace  being  chosen  governor  of  Scotland  in 
1 298,  and  ends  with  his  being  betrayed  and  put  to  death,  in 
1305  ;  and  "  Diarium  Arnaldi  de  Blair,  capellani  Willielmi 
Vallcij,  Militis,  (Gubernatoris  Regni  Scotiae),  monachi  de  Dum- 
fermling,  1327,"  beginning  at  1297,  and  ending  7th  September 
1305,  and  occupying  four  and  a  half  folio  pages. 

Mr  John  Durie,  a  monk  of  Dunfermline  in  1 563,  embraced 
the  Protestant  faith,  and  became  an  eminent  preacher  of  it. 
He  was  successively  minister  of  Leith,  Edinburgh,  and  Mon- 
trose. 

Mr  David  Ferguson  was  the  first  Protestant  minister  of  this 
parish,  a  man  of  great  celebrity  in  his  day,  and  held  in  much 
confidence  and  esteem  by  his  brethren.  He  died  on  23d  August 
1598,  aged  65,  and  is  thus  briefly  but  pithily  characterized  by 
Spottiswood.  "  A  good  preacher,  wise,  and  of  a  jocund  and 
pleasant  disposition,  which  made  him  well  regarded  both  in  court 
and  country."  Besides  his  famous  sermon  preached  at  Leith,  he 
was  the  author  of  a  compilation  of  the  Scottish  Proverbs,  set  in 
alphabetical  order,  the  same  year  in  which  he  died,  and  prmted 


DUNFERMLINE. 


871 


at  Edinburgh  in  1644,  4to,  and  other  works,  noticed  by  M'Crie 
in  his  Lives  of  Knox  and  Melville. 

Mr  John  Davidson,  another  eminent  reformer,  was  a  native  of 
this  parish.  He  was  first  minister  at  Liberton,  and  afterwards  at 
Prestonpans,  in  the  reign  of  James  VI. 

Mr  Robert  Henry  son  was  an  eminent  person  in  this  parish,  as 
a  teacher  and  poet,  at  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century.  The 
exact  period  and  place  of  his  birth,  as  well  as  the  time  of  his 
death,  are  involved  in  equal  obscurity.  He  must  have  been 
born,  however,  in  the  reign  of  James  H.  or  HI.,  and  it  is  certain 
that  he  died  in  this  burgh.  The  main  fact  regarding  his  personal 
history,  well  ascertained,  is,  that  he  was  "  Scolmaister  of  Dun- 
fermling,"  or,  as  he  has  been  styled,  "  Chief  Schoolmaster  of 
Dunfermline  ;''  and  it  has  been  conjectured,  that  he  officiated  as 
preceptor  of  youth  in  the  Abbey. 

Mr  Adam  Blackwood  was  born  in  Dunfermline  in  1539. 
Being  a  Roman  Catholic,  he  settled  in  France,  and  became  a 
Senator  in  the  Parliament  of  Poitiers.  He  died  in  162.3,  aged 
74.  He  published  various  works,  a  corrected  edition  of  which, 
Latin  and  French,  appeared  twenty-one  years  after  his  death,  at 
Paris,  1644,  4to.  He  had  two  brothers,  also  natives  of  Dun- 
fermline ;  Henry,  who  became  eminent  as  a  doctor  of  medicine 
at  Paris,  and  George,  who  became  a  professor  of  philosophy 
there,  and  afterwards  a  clergyman  of  celebrity. 

Mr  James  Bayne,  schoolmaster  of  Dunfermline,  published,  in 
1714,  a  short  introduction  to  the  Latin  Grammar. 

Mr  James  Moir  was  a  teacher  and  author  in  Dunfermline  in 
1756,  and  afterwards  in  Edinburgh,  where  he  died  in  1806,  aged 
93. 

Mr  Andrew  Donaldson,  brother-in-law  to  Mr  John  Mackie, 
a  respectable  gentleman  in  the  carpet  manufactory  trade  in  Dun- 
fermline, who  died  in  1793,  was  a  teacher  in  this  town,  a  man  of 
good  education  and  character,  but  of  singular  habits. 

Provost  Low  was  long  and  deservedly  eminent  for  his  success 
in  the  reduction  of  dislocations,  and  for  the  disinterested  manner 
in  which  he  acted  in  the  exercise  of  his  peculiar  talent.  He  died 
in  September  1817. 

Rev.  Henry  Fergus,  late  minister  in  the  Relief  Church,  was  an 
ardent  student  of  physical  science,  on  some  branches  of  which  he 
lectured  in  the  Mechanics'  Institution  in  1825-6,  and  was  the 
author  of  several  publications. 


872 


FIFESHIRE. 


Ehenezer  Henderson,  D.D.,  Theological  Tutor,  Highbury  Col- 
lege, formerly  agent  of  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society, 
and  author  of  several  works,  was  a  native  of  this  parish. 

Modern  and  other  Buildings. — The  most  recent  school  build- 
ings are  the  Burgh,  Commercial,  and  Maclean  Schools. 

Churches.  — The  following  may  be  noticed  -.—Queen  Anne 
Street  Dissenting  Church,  a  huge  building,  "  rearing  its  enormous 
rectilinear  ridge  over  all  the  other  buildings  in  Dunfermline,  the 
Abbey  Church  itself  not  excepted." 

Within  the  last  sixteen  years  have  been  erected  St  Margaret's 
Church,  of  the  United  Associate  connexion,  1827  ;  behind  it, 
the  Baptist  Church,  1 834 ;  St  Andrew's  Church,  North  Chapel 
Street,  1833;  North  Church,  Golfdrum,  1840,  which  last  two 
are  both  quoad  sacra  churches,  built  in  connexion  with  the  Esta- 
blishment; i\\e  Independent  or  Congregational  Church,  Canmore 
Street,  1841,  and  the  Episcopal  Trinity  Chapel,  Queen  Anne 
Place,  1842,  all  additions  to  the  ornamental  structures  of  the 
town,  and  affording  comfortable  accommodation  to  the  congrega- 
tions worshipping  in  them.  A  Free  Church  also,  built  of  stone 
and  slated,  has  been  erected  in  Canmore  Street,  in  the  end  of 

1843.  .  . 

But  the  largest,  most  splendid,  and  interesting  ecclesiastical 
edifice  of  modern  date,  is  the  Abbey  Church.  It  was  begun  m 
March  1818,  and  completed  in  September  1821.  It  mime- 
diately  adjoins  the  Old  Church  on  the  east,  the  latter  bemg  now 
a  porch  or  vestibule  to  it.  It  is  of  light  ornate  Gothic  architec- 
ture, with  tall  handsome  windows,  and  having  a  fine  square  tower, 
near  the  east  end,  100  feet  high.  On  the  summit  of  this  tower, 
instead  of  a  balustrade  of  the  same  architecture  as  the  rest  of  the 
building,  there  are  the  four  words,  King  Robert  The  Bruce, 
on  the  four  sides  respectively,  in  capital  letters  of  open  hewn 
work,  four  feet  in  height,  which  can  be  easily  read  at  a  consider- 
able distance.  These  are  surmounted  by  royal  crowns,  and  each 
corner  is  ornamented  with  a  lofty  pinnacle.  This  decoration  is 
intended  to  designate  the  place  of  sepulture  of  our  great  patriot 
King,  whose  ashes  repose  immediately  beneath  ;  but  the  taste 
and  architectural  effect  of  it  are  questioned  by  many.  The  in- 
terior of  the  church  is  much  and  universally  admired,  for  the 
simplicity,  chasteness,  and  elegance  of  its  form  and  ornaments 

A  Poor's  House  and  Prison  have  been  recently  erected  m  the 
Town  Green,  east  from  the  Burgh. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


873 


III. — Population. 
The  population  of  the  town  and  parish  at  various  periods,  as 
far  as  can  be  ascertained,  is  as  follows  : — 


Year. 


1400 

1600 
1624 
1690 
1698 

1713 

1735 

1791 
1801 
1811 
1821 
1831 
1841 


In  Town  and 
Suburbs. 


500 

1,000 
1,400 
1,800 
2,000 


4,400  MS.  Annals. 

5,192 

5,484 

6,492 

8,003 
10,625 
13,323 


In  Parish, 


5,000 

8,532 

9,550 
9,980 
11,649 
13,681 
17,068 
19,778J 


I  MS.  Annals  of  Dunfermline,  by  Dr 
I     E.  Henderson. 
Ditto. 

Inventory  of  Records  of  Aberdeen.* 

MS.  Annals. 

Ditto. 

Presbytery  Records,  taken  for  proposal 

to  have  a  third  Minister. 
Ditto,  Return  to  Dr  Webster,  for 

Widows'  Scheme.f 
Old  Statistical  Account. 
First  Government  Census. 
Second  Ibid. 
Third  Ibid. 
Fourth  Ibid. 
Fifth  Ibid. 


The  results  of  the  census,  taken  in  1841,  are  as  follows  : — 


Houses. 

Persons. 

Inhabited. 

Uninhabited. 

Building. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

1374 
1 

97 
0 

2 
0 

3,033 
17 

3,079 
7 

6,112 
24§ 

1375 
372 

97 
23 

2 
2 

3,030 
908 

3,086 
825 

6,13611 
1,733^ 

1747 
1177 

120 
70 

4 
I 

3,958 
2,783 

3,911 
2,671 

7,869'* 
5,434tt 

2924 
1489 

190 
82 

5 
14 

6,741 
3,283 

6,582 
3,633 

13,323++ 
6,916§§ 

4413 

272 

19 

10,024 

10,215 

20,2391111 

Excess  of  191  Females  in  whole  parish. 


*  As  it  appears,  from  an  extract  from  these  Records,  that  there  were  287  fami- 
lies in  Dunfermline  in  1 624,  by  allowing  nearly  five  to  a  family,  the  population  is  about 
1400. 

f  Dr  Webster's  undertaking  was  begun  in  1743,  but  not  completed  tiU  1755, 
which  accounts  for  this  last  year  being  given  as  that  of  the  Report. 

X  I  have  here  excluded  North  Queensferry,  which  is  in  the  parish  quoad  civilia, 
(and  was  estimated  in  1841  for  the  first  time),  in  order  to  shew  the  proportional  in- 
crease of  the  population  with  previous  years.  Inclutling  North  Queensferry,  it  is 
20,239. 

§  Gaol.  II  In  ancient  burgh.        ^  In  burgh,  as  extended  by  Police  Bill. 

**  In  municipal  burgh  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  magistrates, 
tt  In  Parliamentary  bounds.  tt  In  town  and  suburbs. 

§§  In  landward  part  of  the  parish,  including  North  Queensferry. 
III!  In  parish,  including  as  above. 


874 


FIFESHIUE. 


Comparison  of  totals  in  1841  and  1831. 


Houses. 

Persons. 

Inhabited. 

Uninhabited. 

Building. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

4413 
92 

272 
13 

19 
1 

10,024 
203 

10,215 
2o8 

20,239  in  1841. 
461" 

4321 
2347 

259 
113 

18 
1 

9,821 
8,440 

9,957 
8,628 

19,778  in  1841. 
17,068  in  1831. 

1974 

T 

146 
le  total  incre? 

3  less, 
ise  betwee 

1,381 
n  1821  anc 

1,329 
i 1831  wa 

2,710  Increase. 
5  3,387 

677  DifiF.  1 

The  number  of  distinct  families,  as  reported  in  1841,  is  the 
same  as  that  of  inhabited  houses  ;  but,  in  1831,  the  former  was 
stated  to  be  3552,  while  the  latter  was  2347 ;  the  houses,  in  this 
last  case,  having  been  taken  as  separate  buildings. 

The  villages,  with  their  respective  populations,  in  1841,  were — 

Crossgates,     ....  548 


Halbeath, 
Townhill, 
Wellwood, 
Roscobie, 
Milesmark, 

Parknook  and  Blackburn, 

Crossford, 

Charleston, 

Limekilns, 

Patiemuir, 

Masterton, 

Brucefield  Feus, 


455 
285 
347 
70 
193 
264 
443 
724 
950 
130 
144 
104 

4657 


Births— It  is  impossible  to  state  accurately  the  yearly  average 
of  births,  for  the  last  seven  years,  since  very  few  of  the  Dissenters, 
during  that  period,  have  recorded  the  births  of  their  children  in 
the  Parish  Register,  and  some  of  the  parents  belonging  to  the 
Establishment  have  also  neglected  to  do  so.  The  following  is 
the  average  number  of  the  registrations  of  births  and  baptisms 
for  ten  years,  at  four  different  periods,  compared  with  the  popu- 
lation, shewing  a  rapid  decrease  in  the  descent,  which  is  to  be 
ascribed  to  the  cause  just  mentioned— a  cause  which  began  to 
operate  during  the  third  period,  and  became  still  stronger  after- 
wards. 

Medium  Population. 
9,250 
10,800 
14,000 
17,000 


Between. 
1783-1792 
1803-1812 
1817-1826 
1827-1836 


Yearly  Registration  of  Births. 
280  or  3.027  per  cent. 
?09  or  2.861 
254  or  1.815  ... 
181  or  1.059     .  . 


Deduct  for  North  Ferry. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


875 


The  averatje  for  1817-1826  is  55  less  than  that  of  the  imme- 
diately  preceding  period,  while  the  population  was  upwards  of 
3000  more,  shewing  that  the  neglect  of  registrations  was  then 
rapidly  on  the  increase,  and  this  disproportion  is  still  more  ap- 
parent in  the  two  succeeding  periods.  Of  the  births  which  oc- 
curred in  1841,  when  the  population  was  19,778,  only  105  wer6 
recorded  in  the  Parish  Register;  in  1842,  only  89  ;  and  in  1843, 
up  to  15th  December,  only  43.  These  results  point  out  the  im- 
perative necessity  of  some  new  legislative  enactment,  for  enforcing 
registrations  of  births  for  genei'al  purposes,  as  well  as  for  the 
benefit  of  individuals.  The  period  between  1803-1812  affords 
the  safest  data  for  the  calculations  of  a  political  economist,  espe- 
cially when  I  state  that  the  registrations  for  each  year  of  that 
period  were  pretty  uniform. 

Mortality. — A  very  correct  register  of  burials  in  the  Abbey 
churchyard  having  been  kept  since  1833,  the  following  is  an 
abstract  of  them  for  ten  years.  A  few  of  the  funerals  came  from 
neighbouring  parishes,  but  probably  as  many  went  out  of  Dun- 
fermline to  these  parishes ;  so  that  the  number  of  interments 
may  be  taken  as  very  nearly  that  of  deaths  in  the  parish. 
Abstract  of  Burials  in  Abbey  Churchyard,  Dunfermline,  for  ten 

years,  from  1st  January  1833  to  1st  January  1842  inclusive. 


Years. 

Under 

5  to 

10  to 

20  to 

30  to 

40  to 

50  to 

60  to 

70  to 

30  to 

5  yrs. 

10. 

20. 

30. 

40. 

50. 

60. 

70. 

80. 

90. 

1833 

130 

24 

26 

21 

12 

12 

24 

28 

29 

22 

1834 

135 

33 

23 

18 

20 

17 

14 

20 

35 

17 

1835 

169 

22 

19 

23 

15 

11 

23 

21 

33 

14 

1836 

140 

14 

14 

14 

17 

16 

18 

34 

26 

17 

1837 

209 

20 

22 

31 

18 

35 

32 

44 

55 

25 

1838 

138 

11 

10 

29 

20 

19 

20 

89 

31 

14 

1839 

147 

15 

20 

18 

22 

24 

23 

25 

29 

22 

1840 

180 

23 

21 

6 

29 

26 

18 

22 

17 

13 

1841 

266 

44 

26 

29 

13 

31 

29 

22 

34 

16 

1842 

166 

17 

22 

17 

18 

29 

20 

25 

29 

10 

Totals, 

1680 

223 

203 

206 

184 

220 

221 

280 

318 

170 

Averages, 

168 

22 

20 

20 

18 

22 

22 

28 

32 

17 

90  &  up- 
wards. 


3 
1 

4 
1 
2 
2 
1 

"3 
1 


18 


Total. 


331 
333 
354 
311 
493 
333 
346 
355 
513 
354 


3723 


372 


Taking  the  average  number  of  interments  in  the  churchyard 
of  Rosyth,  which  borders  on  the  parish  at  Limekilns,  to  be  35  for 
the  same  period,  the  total  average  will  be  407 ;  and  estimating 
the  average  population  between  1833  and  1842  at  18,500,  the 
average  of  deaths  will  be  about  1  in  45  (45.45),  or  2J  per  cent. 

In  1841,  the  population  was  19,778,  and  the  number  of  burials 
m  Abbey  churchyard,  513  =  to  about  1  in  38  (38.55),  or  2f  per 


876 


FIFESHIIIE. 


cent.,  and  including  Rosyth  (say  40),  553  =  to  about  1  in  35 
(35.94),  or  2|  per  cent. 

There  was  an  unusual  mortality  in  1837,  owing  to  the  great 
prevalence  of  typhus  fever,  measles,  and  what  are  usually  named 
hives.  Influenza,  also,  was  very  prevalent  and  fatal  at  the  com- 
mencement of  that  year,  chiefly  among  the  aged  and  infirm  ;  and 
it  was  remarked,  that  although  many  persons  died  of  other  dis- 
eases at  that  period,  almost  all  these  diseases  assumed  more  or 
less  the  type  of  this  epidemic,  as  an  accompaniment.  The  num- 
ber of  deaths  was  nearly  as  great  as  that  arising  from  cholera  and 
other  diseases  in  1832  ;  the  former  being  493,  and  the  latter  500, 
of  which  last  number  there  were  180  deaths  by  cholera  alone. 
This  alarming  disease  prevailed  in  the  parish  from  3d  September 
to  1st  November  1832,  and  partially  in  the  March  preceding. 
There  were  nearly  500  cases,  although  only  180  deaths. 

Marriages. — As  the  accuracy  of  the  Register  of  Proclamation 
of  Marriages  can  be  depended  on,  it  may  be  interesting  and  use- 
ful to  know  the  average  number  of  them  at  four  diff'erent  periods, 
compared  with  the  population  and  other  circumstances.  Accord- 
ingly— 

Yearly  Average 
of  Marriages. 

82,  or  1  in  144,  or  69  per  cent. 

85,  or  1  in  149,  or  67  ... 

119,  or  1  in  129,  or  77  ... 

149,  or  1  in  123,  or  81  ... 
1841  is  1  in  134,  or  74 

In  1801,  the  year  of  the  great  dearth,  the  number  of  marriages 
was  62,  which  was  the  same  as  in  the  year  immediately  preceding, 
while  it  rose  in  1802  to  81,  and  in  1803  to  101.  In  the  three 
following  years  it  fell,  being  77,  87,  and  93  respectively.  In  1827, 
after  a  great  depression  in  trade,  the  number  of  marriages  was  only 
106  while  in  the  year  immediately  preceding  and  following,  it  was 
I25I  and  in  1830  'it  rose  to  171.  The  Malthusians  will  consider 
these  facts,  as  corroborative  of  their  theory  of  population. 

The  number  of  persons  in  the  whole  parish,  including  North 
Queensferry,  as  nearly  as  can  be  gathered  from  the  census  of  1841, 
is  for  the  following  ages,— 


Medium 

From 

Population. 

1801  ) 

to  > 

11,830 

1810) 

1810) 

to  \ 

12,665 

1821  ) 

1821  ) 

to  [ 

15,374 

1831  ) 

1831  ) 

to  y 

18,400 

1841  ) 

DUNFERMLINE. 


877 


Under  13  years  of  age,           .  .  9421 

Betwixt  15  and  30  inclusive,  .  5279 

Betwixt  30  and  50     ...         .  .  3782 

Betwixt  50  and  70     ...  .  1507 

Betwixt  70  and  90,  and  upwards,  .  250 


Total,  20,239 

There  is  one  earl  (Elgin  and  Kincardine)  and  one  baronet 
(Capt.  Sir  John  Halket),  who  generally  reside  in  the  parish. 
The  Marquis  of  Tweeddale  has  land,  and  feu-duties  or  fees  aris- 
ing from  his  heritable  offices  of  Bailie  of  the  Regality  and  Con- 
stabulary of  the  Lordship  of  Dunfermline,  but  no  mansion-house 
in  it.  There  are  many  individuals  and  families  of  independent 
fortune  residing  both  in  the  town  and  country. 

There  are  38  proprietors  of  land,  exclusive  of  the  burgh  and 
guildry  corporations,  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.50  and  upwards. 

The  average  number  in  each  family  is  rather  more  than  four 
and  a  half  (4.5771),  or  about  4i,^. 

The  average  number  of  insane  and  fatuous  poor,  either  in  an 
asylum  or  in  the  parish,  for  seven  years  from  1835-41,  both  in- 
clusive, is. 

In  Asylum.  Not  in  Asylum.  Total. 

6  10  16 

In  1843, 5  11  16 

Some  of  these  eleven  are  in  the  Poor's  House.  There  are 
three  or  four  blind,  and  five  deaf  and  dumb  persons,  belonging  to 
the  parish.  One  of  the  latter  is  at  present  receiving  education  at 
the  Glasgow  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution  ;  and  another  was  also 
taught  there,  both  at  the  expense  of  the  Rev.  A.  M'Lean's  trus- 
tees. A  third  was  educated  at  the  Edinburgh  Institution,  by  vo- 
luntary contributions  from  the  parish. 

The  people  are  not  remarkable  for  any  corporeal  or  other  per- 
sonal quahties.  The  language  of  the  working  classes  is  distin- 
guished by  some  peculiar  pronunciations  and  phrases,  such  as  toll 
for  tell ;  buddies  for  bodies  (children)  ;  lean  yehv  sit  you  downov 
rest  yourselves  ;  a  false  for  a  falsehood  ;  belonging  me  for  to  me  ; 
fell  used  in  a  good  as  well  as  a  bad  sense,  as  a/e//  or  large  meet- 
ing, a/eZZ  or  fine  boy,  &  fell  or  clever  person,  or  very  angry; 
a.frem  person,  one  not  related  by  blood. 

Habits  of  the  People,  ^c, — The  habits  of  the  people  as  a  class 
are  industrious  and  active,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  lowest 
and  most  dissipated  among  them,  are  cleanly  and  orderly.  Very 
many  of  the  working  population  have  a  fair  proportion  of  the  com- 
forts of  life,  and  advantages  of  society.    They  have  good  and  well 


878 


FIFESHIRE. 


furnished  houses,  dress  respectably,  educate  their  children,  and 
can  afford  to  have  the  same  wholesome  and  nourishing  diet,  as  is 
usual  in  a  similar  class  in  other  parts  of  Scotland. 

Many  of  the  weavers  and  operatives  of  all  descriptions,  are  very 
intelligent  and  skilful  at  their  employments,  and  have  information 
far  superior  to  their  rank  in  life. 

The  inhabitants  generally  are  a  church-going  people,  as  indi- 
cated by  the  attendance  on  the  places  of  worship,  and  the  crowds 
of  persons  who  are  seen  going  to  and  from  these  on  the  Sabbath. 
Many  of  the  respectable  middling  classes  are  well  informed  on  re- 
ligious subjects;  and  although  there  is  a  great  diversity  of  sects, 
and  an  occasional  keenness  in  the  discussion  of  controversial  to- 
pics, there  are  considerable  freedom  and  harmony  of  private  in- 
tercourse. 

It  is  to  be  acknowledged  and  lamented,  however,  that,  as  in  all 
populous  and  manufacturing  places,  there  are  many  exceptions  to 
this  favourable  statement,  both  in  respect  of  prosperity  and  cha- 
racter. A  young  weaver,  from  being  soon  able  to  earn  a  journey- 
man's wages,  often  contracts  too  early  a  marriage,  which,  espe- 
cially if  followed  by  irregular  employment,  and  reduction  of  wages 
in  consequence  of  depression  of  trade,  as  has  of  late  years  too 
frequently  occurred,  and  much  more  by  his  own  improvidence  or 
dissipation,  necessarily  entails  poverty  and  wretchedness.  Accord- 
ingly, there  are  not  a  few  journeymen  weavers  and  their  families, 
from  one  or  more  of  these  causes,  living  in  great  straits  and  dis- 
comfort, which  they  have  little  prospect  of  overcoming.  As  a  na- 
tural result  of  this,  there  is  discontent  among  a  certain  portion  of 
the  weaving  class,  as  also  other  mechanics,  accompanied  by  a  keen 
interference  in  civil  and  ecclesiastical  politics,  and  an  anxious  at- 
tempt to  find  remedies  for  their  wants  in  the  removal  of  real  or 
imagined  public  evils,  rather  than  in  the  amendment  of  their  own 
habits  as  individuals  and  members  of  society.  The  cases  of  ex- 
treme indigence  and  misery  arising  mainly  from  intemperance, 
with  its  concomitant  evils,  idleness,  profligacy,  carelessness  of  per- 
sons and  dwellings,  neglect  of  education  of  children  and  of  divine 
ordinances,  are  often  very  ap])alling  and  heart-rending. 

As  to  the  collier  population,  it  is  well  known  that  anciently  the 
coal-hewers  were  serfs  to  their  employers,  or  "  adscriptae  glebae," 
the  law  repealing  which  practice  having  been  passed  only  in  1771), 
and  made  effectual  by  another  only  in  1 799. 

In  consequence  of  disputes  at  some  of  the  collieries  in  this  quar- 

G 


DUNFERMLINE.  879 

ter,  arising  out  of  the  union-laws,  the  collier  population  has  of  late 
been  very  fluctuating  and  unsettled.  But  in  regard  to  the  old  re- 
sident part  of  the  workmen,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town 
of  Dunfermline,  who  did  not  take  any  prominent  part  in  these  dis- 
putes, I  would  say,  that,  generally  speaking,  their  intellectual,  re- 
ligious, and  moral  character,  is  decidedly  superior  to  that  of  the 
same  class  of  persons  in  many  other  places. 

The  old  practice  of  confining  their  marriages  to  their  own  class 
is  beginning  to  break  down,  from  which  an  improvement  may  be 
expected  in  many  respects.  But  the  chief  feature  of  improvement 
of  late  years  has  been  in  education.  This  was  generally  at  one 
time  very  much  neglected,  and  hence  the  adult  population  was  of- 
ten ignorant  and  uncultivated.  The  cause  of  this  deficiency  was 
certainly  in  no  small  degree,  the  facility  of  finding  easy  employ- 
ment with  a  little  pecuniary  gain  for  young  boys  and  girls  under 
ground,  in  keeping  doors  for  ventilation,  &c.  a  benefit  which  care- 
less or  dissipated  parents  took  advantage  of,  to  the  prejudice  of 
the  education  of  their  offspring.  But,  recently,  at  all  the  collieries, 
the  payments  for  education  are  made  universal  and  compulsory,  an 
arrangement  which  has  caused  a  much  more  regular  attendance. 

I  am  not  aware  of  any  distinguishing  peculiarities  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  agricultural  population  of  this  parish.  The  Bothy  sys- 
tem exists  here  as  in  other  places,  with  its  share  of  attendant  evils. 
From  many  of  the  farm-servants  shifting  their  situations  frequent- 
ly, they  are  not  so  well  known  to  their  ministers,  as  other  classes 
of  the  working  population.  Still,  numbers  of  them  are  regular  in 
their  attendance  on  divine  ordinances,  and  conduct  themselves 
with  Christian  propriety. 

Poaching  is  considerably  on  the  decrease,  chiefly,  it  is  supposed, 
on  account  of  the  vigilance  of  the  rural  police.  In  1841,  the 
number  of  persons  prosecuted  for  offences  against  the  game  laws, 
in  the  western  district  of  Fife,  in  the  Justice  of  Peace  Court,  was 
17;  in  1842,  9;  and  in  1843,  6.  There  were,  however,  other 
cases,  in  which  the  evidence  was  deficient,  and  which  were  not 
brought  to  trial. 

Pawn  broking  has  been  on  the  increase  of  late.  There  are  at 
present  (December  1843)  eleven  shops,  besides  many  private 
places,  where  the  trade  is  understood  to  be  carried  on.  None  of 
the  dealers  in  it  are  licensed,  as  they  profess  to  purchase  the  arti- 
cles deposited  with  them.  They  are  styled  "  General  Merchants 
or  Brokers." 


880 


FIFESHIKE. 


IV. — Industuy. 
Agriculture.— The  following  tabular  view  of  the  agriculture  of 
the  parish  was  drawn  up  chiefly  in  consequence  of  hearing  certain 
remarks  made  by  Earl  Fitzwilliam  on  the  Statistical  Reports  of 
Agriculture,  including  those  of  the  new  work  of  the  Church  of 
Scotland,  at  the  meeting  of  the  British  Association  held  in  Edin- 
burgh in  1834.    These  are  now  recorded  in  the  printed  transac- 
tions for  that  year,  p.  693,  and  are,  in  substance,  as  follows  :— 
"  The  expediency  of  furnishing  more  minute  details  with  respect 
to  the  agricultural  part  of  statistical  reports,  was  suggested  in  these 
remarks.    The  statements  ought  to  show  not  only  the  total  amount 
of  land  in  cultivation,  but  also  the  quantities  allotted  at  the  time 
of  the  inquiry  to  the  various  kinds  of  produce,  the  number  and 
value  of  agricultural  implements,  the  number  of  draught  and  other 
cattle,  and  similar  details.    Lord  Fitzwilliam  stated,  that  he  had 
succeeded  in  obtaining  such  returns  for  some  parishes  in  his  own 
neighbourhood,  and  observed,  that  accurate  and  minutely  detailed 
information  for  only  a  small  number  of  places  would  furnish  more 
safe  grounds  for  correct  inferences  than  could  be  obtamed  from  a 
more  widely  extended,  but  less  precise  inquiry." 

The  information  contained  in  the  first  four  tables  may  be  de- 
pended on,  as  possessing  all  attainable  accuracy,  having  been  pro- 
cured from  written  returns,  made  by  the  several  proprietors  or  te- 
nants of  land,  in  answer  to  queries  submitted  to  them  in  schedules, 
containing  a  variety  of  columns  for  the  purpose.    The  informaUon 
in  the  other  tables  was  also  obtained  from  the  best  sources.  Ex- 
cept when  otherwise  noted,  they  all  refer  to  the  year  1838,  soon 
after  which,  the  author  expected  his  History  of  Dunfermhne  to  be 
completed,  but  in  this,  from  other  duties,  he  was  disappointed. 
This  he  regrets,  as  some  slight  changes  may  have  taken  place  since 
that  period,  especially  as  to  the  number  of  farming  implements. 

AGRICULTURAL  STATISTICAL  TABLV,  FOR  1838. 

1.  Number  of  Acres  Arable  and  not  Arable,  &c. 

Scots  Imperial. 

Acres.  Acres.  Roods.    Poles.  l•alI^. 

Number  of  acres  arable.   10,618  13,391  ^          36  6 

  not  arable,                          2,966  J,74U  jq  28 

ropTerbeTS;or":[;il:rthc"cLair„.an,in  name  of  the  meeting,  was  pleased  toe.- 
press  his  approbation. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


881 


Number  of  acres  in  fences  and  farm-roads,  ) 

supposed  to  be,   f 

  .in  country  mansion- 
houses  and  farm-stead- 
ings, supposed  to  be  ... 

Total  number  of  landward  acres,  exclusive 

of  villages  and  great  roads,   

II 


Number  of  acres  under  the  various  kinds  of 
crops,  pasture  and  sum- 
mer-fallow, including  a 
few  acres  in  tares,   

  in  wheat,   

  in  barley,  

  in  oats,  

  in  pease  and  beans,  

  in  turnips,   

  in  potatoes,   

  in  rye-grass  hay,   

  in  meadow-hay,   

  in  pasture-grass,   

  in  gardens  and  orchards 

(.landward),   


Scots. 

Imperial. 

Acres. 

Acres. 

Roods.  Poles. 

Falls. 

600 

756 

2 

33 

18 

f 

36 

45 

1 

24 

llf 

15,300 

19,296 

0 

17 

0 

Imperial. 

AcrGS, 

t\  C  Tea, 

Roods.  Poles. 

►  549 

692 

1 

22 

493 

621 

3 

2 

32 

840 

1,059 

1 

23 

2,794 

3,523 

2 

39 

m 

420 

529 

2 

31 

15J 

308 

888 

1 

31 

3| 

4 

552 

696 

0 

27 

21f 

828 

1,044 

1 

1 

18| 

222 

279 

3 

37 

3,561 

4,490 

3 

22 

144 

51 

64 

1 

11 

7| 

10,618 

13,391 

0 

9 

274 

III,  Number  of  Draught  and  other  Cattle  and  Live  Stock. 


Number  of  draught  horses  (landward), 
  saddle  or  carriage  (do.), 


young  horses 
milk-cows 
black  cattle 
sheep 
swine 


(do.), 
(do.), 
(do.), 
(do.), 
(do.). 


413 
40 

156 

456 
1526 
1339 

167 


IV.  Number  and  Kinds  of  Implements  of  Husbandry 

Number  of  common  ploughs,     


FIFE. 


drill  do. 

furrow  do  

drain  do  

subsoil  do  

paring  do  

common  carts,   

hay  do  

common  harrows  (pairs),  

brakes  or  grubbers,   

drill-harrows,  

circular  drill-harrows,   

grain-seed  machines,   

corn-drills,   

drill  bean  barrows,   

Turnip-seed  machines,  one  of  which 
also  sows  bone-dust,   

Thrashing-machines,  


Rollers,   

Hay-Scythes, . 


Iron. 

Wooden. 

Total 

118 

79 

197 

39 

42 

81 

3 

29 

32 

11 

8 

5 

13 

9 

248 

J04 

223 

15 

ii 

26 

38 

30 

68 

I 

6 

1 

11 

39 

Horse. 

Water.  Steam. 

57* 

2  2 

61 

Stone. 

Wood. 

56 

51 

]07 

173 

In  1814,  there  were  only  23. 


3  K 


*  FIFESIIIRE. 

Several  of  tlie  farmers  are  provided  with  steel-yards  for  weigh- 
ing corn,  reaping-scythes,  scythe-hooks,  and  large  horse-rakes. 

V.  Average  produce  of  the  Land  in  the  Southern  Section  of 

the  Parish. 

On  best  soils.  On  ordinary  soils. 

Bolls.    Quarters.  Bolls.  Quarters. 

) .  Wheat,                          9  or  4i  per  acre.  7   or  3^  per  acre. 

2.  Barley,                            7  or  5^       ...  5^  or  4J  ... 

3.  Beans  and  pease,               8  or  4        ...  6   or  3 

4.  Oats,                            10  or  7^      ...  8  or  6 

5.  Potatoes,                        60or4cwt.  ...  45  or  4  cwt.... 

6.  Hay,                            200  stones      ...  120    stones  ... 

7.  Turnips,                         30  tons  .      ...  24  tons 

Northern  Section. 

On  best  soils.  On  ordinary  soils. 

Bolls.    Quarters.  Bolls.  Quarters. 

1.  Barley,                          7  or  5|  per  acre.  3  or  3|  per  acre. 

2.  Beans  and  pease, ...       4  or  2^     ...  4  or  2^ 

3.  Oats,                           8  or  6       ...  5  or  3|  ... 

4.  Potatoes,                     35  or  4  cwt...  25  or  6  cwt... 

5.  Hay,                        150  stone     ...  100  stones  ... 

The  produce  of  a  boll  of  Hopeton  oats,  in  the  southern  dis- 
trict, may  be  computed  at  from  16  to  16^  pecks  of  meal,  and  that 
of  the  best  potato  or  early  oats,  at  from  17  to  18  pecks.  In- 
stances of  a  greater  produce  are  rare.  Besides  the  Hopeton  and 
early  oats,  there  are  also  sown  the  Dunn,  Angus,  and  Strathmiglo. 

VI.  Price  of  Provisions,  and  the  Rate  of  Wages  of  Agricultural 
Male  and  Female  Servants,  at  three  different  periods,  1786, 
1814,  and  1838. 

Provisions.  1 786. 

s.  d.     s.  d. 

Oatmeal,  ^  peck,  Dutch  weight,  from         0  8   to  1  0 

Beef,   ^  ft   0  24  to  0  4 

Butter,  ...^  ft.  Tron,  ...  0  6   to  0  8 

Eggs,  ...  1^  dozen,    0  3  to  0  4 

A  hen,   0  6   to  0  9 

Wages. 

Ploughman,  ^  year,  with  lodging  and  victuals,  £5 
Maid-servants  do.  do.       do,  £2 

Men  reapers  ^  day,  with  breakfast  and  dinner,  0    8  to  1  0 

Labourers  <^  day  without  victuals,   0  10  to  1  0 

VII.  Gross  Amount  of  Raw  Produce,  the  Quantities  of  Grain 
and  other  Articles  being  taken  as  in  1838,  and  the  Prices  of 
the  Grain  on  an  average  of  the  Fiars  for  seven  years,  and  of 
other  Articles  as  nearly  as  could  be  ascertained  for  the  same 
period. 


1814. 

1838. 

s. 

d.    s.  d. 

s.  d.    s.  d. 

1 

2  to  1  3 

1  2tol  3i 

7d. 

0  6  to  0  6^ 

1 

6  to  I  8 

Is.  2id. 

Is.  3d. 

0  7  to  1  0 

2  0  to  2  6 

1  6  to  2  0 

£16 

£12  to  £16 

£3 

£4  to  £7 

1 

8  to  1  6 

1  8  to  1  10 

With  dinner. 

1 

8  to  2  3 

1  6  to  1  8 

DUNFERMLINE. 


883- 


Average 

Average 

Average 

Total 

Total 

v.alun 

Acres. 

produce 

price 

per 

total  price 

produce 

nf  pnrh 

per  acre. 

boll. 

per  acre. 

in  bolls. 

RnlU 

£ 

s* 

A 

11. 

s* 

d. 

£ 

S. 

d. 

n 

1 

o 

6 

10 

2 

6 

4437 

4991 

1 2 

6 

O  4U 

1 
1 

A 
V 

I ' 

ft 

1  n 

gi 

8460 

8495 

5 

0 

o 
o 

0 

15 

0| 

6 

5 

4' 

22,352 

1 7,509 

I 

4 

I?ease  and  beans, 

7 

1 

I 

7 

7 

1 1 

1 

2940 

3i72 

15 

0 

552 

41 

0 

7 

0 

14 

7 

0 

22,632 

7921 

4 

n 

Tnim 

308 

27 

5 

0 

0 

1540 

0 

0 

Stonss. 

Rye-grass  hay,.. 

828 

160 

0 

0 

8 

6 

6 

8 

132  480 

4416 

0 

0 

Meadow-hay,  

222 

90 

0 

0 

6 

2 

5 

0 

19,980 

499 

10 

0 

Arab,  land  in  pas. 

3561 

3 

0 

0 

10,683 

0 

0 

Not  arable  do  

2966 

0 

5 

0 

741 

10 

0 

Gardens  &  orch. 

50 

5 

0 

0 

250 

0 

0 

(landward,)  .. 

An.  thinning  of 

705 

0 

0 

plantations,... 

38, 1 89 

3818 

9 

0 

Coal,  120,000  tons  of  all  kinds,  at  6s.  Cd.  per  ton,  at  pit-mouth,  ... 

39  000 

0 

0 

Lime  shells,  460,000  bushels  at  5d.  per  bushel,  . 

9583 

6 

8 

Lime  raw  stones, 

15,000  tons  at  4s.  per  ton,  . 

3000 

0 

0 

441 

0 

0 

Total  yearly  value  of  raw  prod 

uce 

raised 

116.767 

13 

6 

There  is  no  ground  in  a  state  of  undivided  common.  The  ge- 
neral kind  of  trees  planted,  or  indigenous,  has  been  noticed  under 
the  article  Botany,  p.  845.  The  management  of  them,  with  re- 
gard to  yearly  thinning  and  pruning,  is  understood  to  be  good. 

Rental,  Sj-c. — 


Valued  rental  of  the  parish  (1843),  -  -  -  L.18,344  16  2 


Real  rent  of  ditto  in  land,              -                -                -  L.24,161  1  1 

in  minerals,  -  -  .  4194  18  11 
in  houses  and  gardens,  within  the  Parliamentary 

boundaries,                -                -  18,077  0  0 

in  villages,             -                   -                 -  3  '41  0  (> 

in  railroads  and  harbours,                      -  600  0  0 

The  rent  of  arable  land  in  the  southern  district  of  the  pari.sh, 
including  all  to  the  south  of  the  Crossgates  and  Torryburn  roads 
and  town  of  Dunfermline,  is  from  about  L.l,  5s.  to  L.3,  3s.  But 
the  general  rent  is  about  L.2,  5s.  per  Scots  acre,  or  L.l,  15s.  8d. 
imperial.  In  the  northern  district,  the  rent  of  arable  land  is  from 
about  16s.  to  L.2;  and  the  general  rent  about  L.1,  3s.  Scots,  or 
18s.  '2d.  imperial. 

Pasture-land  will  rent,  to  the  south  of  the  town,  at  the  same 
rate  as  arable;  and  to  the  north  of  it,  from  5s.  to  L.l,  10s.  impe- 
rial acre. 

The  rents  upon  new  leases  are  frequently  paid  partly  in  money 


884 


FIFESHIRE. 


and  partly  in  grain,  convertible  at  the  fiars'  prices  either  Mid- Lo- 
thian or  Fife,  but  now  chiefly  the  latter. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  town, 
the  rent  of  grazing  for  a  milk-cow  is  about  L.5,  and  sometimes  as 
high  as  L.5,  10s. ;  and  of  an  ox,  about  L.3,  lOs.  To  the  north  of 
the  town,  the  rent  for  a  milk-cow  is  about  L.3;  and  for  an  ox 
about  L,2;  for  a  ewe  and  lamb,  from  12s.  to  L.l ;  and  for  a  full- 
grown  sheep,  from  10s.  to  15s. 

Rate  of  Warjes. — The  wages  of  ploughmen,  when  young  lads, 
are  from  L.9  to  L.  12;  when  grown  or  married  men,  fit  for  all 
kinds  of  farm-work,  from  L.3  to  L.  16  ;  and  when  they  have 
charge  of  the  farm,  are  sometimes  even  L.20  per  annum,  with  an 
allowance  for  provisions.  The  young  lads  generally  receive  6|- 
bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  either  milk  or  Is.  per  week  instead  of  it,  with 
occasionally  1  boll  of  potatoes.  Grown  or  married  men,  and  per- 
sons in  charge,  have  the  same  quantity  of  meal  and  6  bolls  of  po- 
tatoes. Sometimes,  too,  they  receive  a  certain  quantity  of  sweet- 
milk  per  day  from  the  dairy,  or  have  the  use  of  a  cow,  and,  in  the 
upland  districts,  even  of  two  or  three  cows,  in  which  case,  if  they 
have  at  the  same  time  meal  and  potatoes,  their  wages  are  propor- 
tionally less.  Married  men  have  a  free  house  and  garden,  with 
coals  driven  for  them ;  and  unmarried  men  generally  live  in  bo- 
thies, with  fire  and  bedding  provided  by  their  masters. 

Female  house-servants  in  the  country  have  from  L.  4  to  L.  7, 
generally  L.6  per  annum. 

Male  labourers  have  Is.  6d.  per  day  in  winter,  and  Is.  8d.  in 
summer. 

Female  labourei-s  have  at  the  rate  of  a  penny  per  hour,  both 
summer  and  winter,  or,  on  an  average,  8d.  per  day. 

Country  masons  and  wrights  have  2s.  per  day  in  winter,  and 
2s.  6d.  in  summer. 

The  wages  of  harvest  labourers,  who  are  for  the  most  part  fe- 
males, are,  of  course,  variable,  generally  from  Is.  3d.  to  Is.  6d.  per 
day,  with  dinner.  They  work,  according  to  the  practice  of  this 
part  of  the  country,  from  nine  in  the  morning  till  six  in  the  even- 
ing, with  an  interval  for  dinner.  The  men  who  are  employed  as 
bandsters  receive  from  Is.  8d.  to  Is.  lOd.,  with  dinner. 

Manure. — House  and  ash  dung  sells  at  2s.  6d.,  and  stable  or 
bvve  dung  at  from  4s.  to  5s.  per  double-cart ;  slacked  lime  at 
5^d.  or  6d.  per  bushel ;  bone-dust  at  2s.  lOd.  per  bushel  ;  and 
rape-dust  at  L.5,  5s,  per  ton.    Lime  is  now  by  some  not  so  much 


.  DUNFERMLINE.  885 

approved  of  as  it  once  was,  except  for  top-dressing  on  pasture. 
Bone-dust  is  occasionally  used  for  turnips,  and  is  reckoned  suita- 
ble for  free  soils,  and  rape-dust  for  fallow  ground  and  retentive 
soils.  One  former  has  employed  rape-dust  with  great  effect,  hav- 
ing had  fow  full  successive  crops  after  its  application.  Guano  is 
also  coming  into  use. 

Live-Stuck. — Few  or  no  sheep  are  bred  in  the  parish.  Tees- 
water  and  Fife  breed  of  cattle  are  most  approved  of  at  present; 
but  a  difference  of  opinion  exists  as  to  which  is  best  for  the  ge- 
neral breed  of  the  parish  or  county.  Teeswater  cattle,  or  short- 
horns, as  they  are  called,  are  said  to  come  sooner  to  maturity,  with 
more  weight,  but  require  better  keeping  than  the  native  breed, 
and  are  not  so  well  adapted  as  the  other  for  the  high  lands. 

Husbandry. — A  general  spirit  of  improvement  at  present  pre- 
vails over  the  parish  in  the  reclaiming  of  waste  lands,  and  espe- 
cially in  draining,  both  by  stones  and  tiles,  which  is  the  founda- 
tion of  all  good  husbandry,  and  when  properly  executed,  is  a  per- 
manent advantage.  Perhaps  more  has  been  done  in  this  way  for 
the  success  of  agriculture  during  the  last  ten  years,  than  during 
the  preceding  generation. 

There  are  two  high-pressure  steam  engines  in  the  southern  sec- 
tion of  the  parish,  for  driving  thrashing-machines,  both  of  recent 
introduction. 

Rotation  of  Crops. — This  varies  very  much  in  the  southern  dis- 
trict. That  which  is  roost  practised  and  approved  of  in  strong 
clays,  is,  \st,  summer-fallow ;  2(1,  wheat ;  3c/,  beans ;  4,th,  bar- 
ley;  bth,  hay;  6^^,  oats.  On  loams,  \st,  potatoes;  Q,d,  wheat; 
Qd,  barley;  Ath,  hay;  bth,  oats;  or,  \st,  turnip;  Id,  barley  sown 
with  grass-seeds ;  Qd,  grass,  and  pastured  two  or  three  years, 
where  the  land  is  fenced  ;  and  then  oats.  The  proportion  of  land 
employed  in  raising  turnips  is  much  increased  of  late  years.  While 
at  the  period  of  the  last  Statistical  Account  it  was  200  acres,  and 
in  1814  is  reported  to  have  been  very  inconsiderable,  it  was,  in 
1833,  as  appears  from  the  table,  308  acres. 

Sowing  and  Planting. — The  period  of  this  is  generally,  for 

\st.  Wheat,  from  Jst  October  till  the  middle  of  December; 

'2d,  Barley,  from  1st  April  till  26lh  May  ; 

3(2,  Oats,  from  20th  March  till  20th  April ; 

Ath,  Beans,  from  1st  March  till  the  middle  of  April ; 

5th,  Turnips,  Swedish,  from  1st  May  till  1st  June; 

Globe,  from  26th  May  till  10th  July  ; 

Yellow,  from  26lh  May  till  15th  J  une. 

Potatoes  are  planted  from  the  first  till  the  middle  of  May ;  but 
not  generally  with  success  after  the  15th. 


88G 


FIFESIIIU12. 


Harvest. — Hay-cutting  commences  in  ordinary  seasons  about 
the  20th  June,  and  continues  throughout  July.  The  other  crops 
are  usually  reaped  in  the  lower  section  of  the  parish  between  the 
middle  or  end  of  August,  and  the  beginning  of  October  ;  in  the 
upper  section  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later. 

Leases. — The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years,  which 
is  reckoned  favourable,  but  no  boon,  to  the  occupier.  As  rents 
are  now  generally  covenanted  for  partly  in  money  and  partly  in 
grain,  in  as  nearly  equal  proportions  as  possible,  regulated  by  the 
fiars  of  the  county,  on  an  average  of  three  years,  it  is  of  less  im- 
portance to  a  landlord  how  long  a  lease  may  last. 

Farm-Buildings  and  Enclosures. — Farm-buildings  are  much 
improved,  and,  for  the  most  part,  executed  in  a  substantial  man- 
ner. The  lands  are  almost  all  enclosed,  partly  with  free,  or  some- 
times whinstone  dikes,  and  these  often  dry,  and  partly  with  ditches 
and  hedges. 

Manufactures. — The  staple  trade  of  Dunfermline  is  the  manufac- 
ture of  Table-linens.  In  no  other  part  of  Scotland  does  the  traffic 
in  this  article  exist,  although  in  one  or  two  places  a  few  looms  are 
to  be  found.  The  trade  of  the  town  began  more  than  a  century  ago, 
with  the  making  of  ticks  and  checks,  which  continued  to  be  made 
in  winter  after  the  table-linen  was  introduced,  which  was  then  wo- 
ven in  summer.  Like  most  other  arts,  it  has  attained  its  present 
high  excellence  by  slow  and  successive  improvements.* 

The  following  three  tables  were  prepared  by  a  committee  of 
manufacturers  in  July  1836,  for  Joseph  Hume,  Esq.,  M.  P.,  and 
may  therefore  be  depended  on  as  having  all  the  accuracy  which 
is  attainable  in  such  cases. 

Is^,  The  amount  of  capital  employed  in  the  trade — 

3317  looms,  producing  annually  finished  goods  to  the  amount  of  L.351,700  0  0 
(Calculating  each  loom  at  I>.  100). 

Value  of  loom-shoi^s  and  workhouses,          .  .              156,000  0  0 

...      3000  damask  looms  at  L.  10  each,             .  30,000  0  0 

517  diaper  looms  at  L.3  each,      .  .                 1,351  0  0 

Mounting,  or  patterns,  and  cards  for  the  ahove  3517  looms,  4,500  0  0 

The  houses  and  warehouses  of  the  manufacturers,  20,000  0  0 

Warping  mills  and  bobbins,             .                    .  500  0  0 

Vloiiting  capital,  calculated  at  L.60  for  each  loom,  .              21 1,000  0  0 

Macliinery  and  houses  for  boiling  yarn,                   .  3,100  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                do.             .  .                    250  0  0 

Machinery,  ground,  and  houses  for  bleaching  yarns,  6,000  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                do.                       .  3,300  0  0 

•  The  writer  refers  for  a  full  account  of  the  table-linen  manufacture,  illustrated  by 
plates,  to  his  recently  published  History  of  Dunfermline. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


887 


Houses,  ground,  and  machinery  for  bleaching  cloth,  .              L.20,000  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                 do.                        .  8,000  0  0 

Houses  for  calendering,  lapping,  and  finishing  goods,  6,000  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                 do.             .  .                   1,000  0  0 

Houses  and  machinery  for  cutting  patterns,  1,250  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                 do.             .  .                     340  0  0 

Houses  and  machinery  for  dyeing  worsted  and  cotton,  620  0  0 

Floating  capital  for                do.                    .  950  0  0 

Total,  L.826,261    0  0 

2rf,  The  description  and  number  of  persons  employed,  and  their 
average  weekly  wages. 

Description.  Number.  ^^^'^^^^^^^^^^ 

Weavers  (men  and  boys),          .  .            3517  lOs, 

Warpers,  warehousemen,  and  lappers  (men),  150  15s. 

Winders  and  pirn  fillers,  women  and  girls,  ]  100  4s, 

Yarn  boilers  (chiefly  women),                .  29  7s. 

Bleachers  of  yarn,                    .  .35  7s. 

Bleachers  of  cloth  (men  and  women),  150  8s.  6d. 

Lappers  in  the  public  lapping  houses  (chiefly  men),  29  9s.  6d. 

Designers  or  pattern  drawers  (men),         .  5 

Do.  with  a  few  assistants,  say     .  .  7 

Pattern  cutters  (men  and  women),            .  12  10s. 

Dyers  (men),          .                   .  .10  18s. 

Total  number  of  persons,         .  5044 

3d,  Number  and  different  kinds  of  looms. 

Single  diaper,  770  which  do  not  require  Jacquard  machines. 

Single  damask,  1880  which  may  have  them. 

Double    do.  369  do. 

Table  covers,  445    All  have  them. 

Worsted  warps,  13  do. 

Linen,  full  harness,     15  do. 

Bed  quilts,  17  da 

.S517 

These  worsted  warps,  and  especially  linen  full  harness  looms, 
are  now  (1843)  greatly  increased.  Of  the  351 7  looms,  570  were 
out  of  the  parish  ;  for  the  trade  supports  looms  in  the  adjoining 
parishes  of  Torryburn,  Carnock,  Culross,  and  Inverkeilhing,  and 
even  as  far  as  at  Kinross,  Auchtermuchty,  Leslie,  and  Strathmi- 
glo. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  the  number  of  looms,  in  and  out  of 
the  parish  of  Dunfermline,  and  of  the  value  of  goods  manufactur- 
ed, at  various  periods,  as  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  which  I 
have  compiled  from  different  sources,  showing  at  one  view  the 
gradual  progress  of  the  trade. 

4th,  Table. 

Date.         I^ooms  within  the       Looms  out  of  the 

Parish.  Parish  xotai..  Value. 

1749  About  400  ;..    '  400 

'^^^  •••  ...  000 


ooo 

FIFESHIHE. 

1792 

About  820 

1  of  in 

J813 

. . .  930 

70 

J  UUU 

1818 

...  1300 

...  150 

1650 

1822 

1800 

1831 

...  "2670 

...  450 

3120 

1836  (July) 

...  2794 

...  723 

3517 

1837  (Aug.) 

...  2983 

...  717 

•  3700 

1-95,000 
120,000 

35i','700 
370,000 

The  following  tables  are  extracted  from  a  written  paper  deli- 
vered by  the  weavers  to  the  Hand- Loom  Commissioners  in  July 
1838. 

5th,  Table.  Persons  to  whom  the  looms  within  the  parish  be- 
long, or  who  work  at  them. 

Looms  belonging  to  single  men,  -  .  475 

married  men,    -  _  2098 

warehousemen,  -  .  156 

manufacturers,   -  -  2 18 

Total,  2947 

Owners  of  looms  who  work,  and  who  are  unmarried,  -  279 
married,           -                   .  695 

journeymen  unmarried,  -  762 
married,               -  231 

apprentices  bound,        -  -  44 
unbound,               .  554 

married  weavers,  -  .  926 

Amount  of  families  married,  -  -  4422 

Of  these  work  at  the  loom,  -  .  1394 

wind  pirns,  -  -  1155 

not  of  age,  -  -  -1 873 

Those  who  have  gone  to  other  trades  are  not  here  included  in 
the  amount  of  family. 

Of  the  44  apprentices  bound,  20  were  at  a  factory  in  town. 
The  reason  of  so  few  being  bound,  is  said  to  be  the  high  stamp- 
duty  of  the  indenture,  viz,  one  guinea,  and  the  expense  of  writing 
it. 

6th,  Table.  Number  of  looms  and  hands  employed  at  diffe- 
rent times. 

July  1830.        24  looms  unemployed  for  want  of  hands. 
Dec.  1837.       900   Do.  and  500  weavers  unemployed. 
9th  Feb.  1838.       550  Do.       139  Do. 
31st  July  1838.       617   Do.       175  Do. 

Tables  of  wages  have  been  made  at  different  periods,  first  in 
1807  and  next  in  1816,  during  which  time  the  rate  of  payment 
continued  the  same.  In  1816,  and  again  in  1822,  the  prices 
were  reduced,  at  which  last  period  there  was  a  strike  for  about 
nine  months.  The  manufacturers,  however,  prevailed,  and  from 
that  time  till  1828,  when  the  Jacquard  machines  came  into  use, 
the  prices  varied  slightly.  In  that  year,  and  again  in  1834,  1837, 
and  in  22d  May  1844,  tables  were  also  made. 


DUNFERMLINE. 


889 


Itky  Table.    Showing  how  and  when  the  wages  were  reduced. 

50  Threes  45  Threes 

per  Spindle  per  Spindle 

of  Warp.  of  Warp. 

s.  d.  s.  d. 

1807,       -       7    81  C  3,V 

1816,       -       6    3i  5  l^V 

1822,       -       5    0§-  3  lliSj. 

1825,  -       5    51  4  2ii 

1826,  .       5    0|  3  11t\ 
1828,       -       4    6-L  3  7 
1830,       -       4    1  3  3| 
1836,       -       3    2  2  9^ 
18.^7  (August)  2  lOi  2  6| 
1841  (October)  2    9f  2  6 
1844  (May)      2    5  2  2 

Wages  were  wont  to  be  paid  per  yard  till  within  these  12  or  15 
years,  when  they  came  to  be  paid  per  spindle  of  work,  which  is 
thought  an  improvement,  as  being  more  simple.  The  gross  ave- 
rage amount  of  weekly  wages,  as  stated  by  the  operatives,  is  about 
■  10s.  6d.,  but  with  deductions  for  light,  tear  and  wear,  loom-rent, 
and  dressing,  the  average  of  net  weekly  wages  is  about  8s.  6d.  per 
week,  for  each  loom.  Journeymen  receive  nearly  three-fourths  of 
the  income,  or  7s.  6d.  per  week,  with  the  deduction  of  a  small 
proportion  for  light  and  twisting,  amounting  to  about  12s.  per  an- 
num, the  remainder  being  the  master's  remuneration  for  the  cost 
of  the  loom-rent,  &c.,  and  the  trouble  of  providing  and  superin- 
tending the  work.  Taking  the  fine  and  the  broad  coarse  goods 
separately,  which  the  journeymen  chiefly  weave,  the  average  of 
their  wages  will  be  somewhat  higher  than  7s.  6d.  In  some  of  the 
warehouses,  where  the  finest  work  is  wrought,  the  earnings  are 
much  higher  than  now  stated. 

Although  the  weaver  has  certainly  lower  wages  now  than  he 
had  twenty  years  ago,  for  working  fine  damask,  he  has  much  less 
idle  time  in  ordinary  circumstances,  in  consequence  of  the  use  of 
the  Jacquard  machines,  and  the  yarn  being  better,  not  hand-spun 
as  before,  but  mill-spun,  which  is  to  a  certain  extent  a  compensa- 
tion. Loss  of  time,  on  a  change  of  pattern,  may  be  reckoned  as 
occurring,  upon  an  average,  only  once  in  eighteen  months,  but 
sometimes  only  once  in  two  or  three,  or  even  many  years,  accord- 
mg  to  the  pleasure  of  the  manufacturer. 

Pirn  fillers  can  earn,  if  they  have  nothing  else  to  do,  lOd.  per 
day  being  paid  at  the  rate  of  2id.  per  spindle  of  weft.  Bobbiners 
could  earn  the  same  amount,  but  do  not  receive  usually  from  one 
warehouse  more  than  from  4d.  to  6d.  per  day,  being  at  the  rate 
of  Id.  to  lad.  per  spindle  of  warp,  according  to  the  weight. 


890 


FIFESHIRE. 


The  weavers  have  twelve  hours  of  actual  labour,  upon  an  ave^ 
rage. 

Spinning- Mills,  Src — The  first  spinning-mill  in  the  parish  was 
erected  at  Brucefield,  about  half  a  mile  south-west  from  the  town, 
in  1792,  which  got  the  second  patent  for  spinning  yarn  by  ma- 
chinery. It  span  yarn  from  flax,  hemp,  tow,  and  wool,  but  has 
not  been  in  operation  for  several  years  past. 

In  July  1836  there  were  seven  spinning-mills  in  operation  in 
the  parish :  at  present  there  are  only  five. 

The  following  is  a  table  of  particulars  regarding  these  mills, 
prepared  along  with  the  one  respecting  the  table-linen  manufac- 
ture, in  July  1836,  for  Joseph  Hume,  Esq.,  M.P. 


Number  of  spinning-mills,  7  power,             -  102 

Number  of  spindles,                      .  -  7704 

Size  of  spinning-flax,  3  lb.  to  90  lee — tow,  2^  lb.  to  24  lb. 

Estimated  value  of  machinery  and  houses,  L.32,400 
Number  employed — Men,  IG'O;  girls,  160. 
Average  wages  of  men,  I5s. ;  ditto  of  girls,  5s. 

Number  of  tons  of  flax  purchased  in  1  iVi'd,  -  902 

Ditto  in  18:<4,                   -                    .  1008 

Ditto  in  1835,         -                  -  .  1059 

Value  of  flax  purchased  in  1835,    -  -  L.58,350 


These  mills  spin  chiefly  linen  yarn,  but  one  of  them  manufac- 
tures also  a  great  quantity  of  linen  thread,  in  a  state  prepared 
for  the  market,  and  for  the  quality  of  which  it  has  long  been  in 
great  repute.  The  others  likewise  twist  for  thread,  and  some  of 
them  make  a  good  deal  of  shoe  thread. 

There  are  three  Iron  Founderies  in  the  parish, — two  on  the 
north  side  of  the  town,  and  one  at  the  iron  mill,  near  Charleston, 
— in  all  of  which  considerable  work  is  done,  and  some  brass  is 
cast. 

There  are  five  Breweries  of  beer,  ale,  and  porter, — three  in  the 
town,  one  at  Crossford,  and  another  at  Brucehaven. 

There  is  one  Soap-work^  in  which  candles  also  are  made,  and 
a  Candle-work  separately. 

There  are  two  Manufactories  of  Tobacco,  being  one  less  than 
in  1841,  and  two  less  than  in  1837.  There  are  no  snufF-mills  ; 
as  there  were  anciently,  near  the  ruins  of  the  monastery. 

There  are,  on  the  north  side  of  the  town,  two  Tanning  and 
Currying-tvorhs.  There  are,  in  or  near  the  town,  three  Rope- 
works  ;  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Charleston  and  Townhill,  two  Tile 
and  Brick-works. 

There  are,  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  parish,  four  Coi'n  or  Meal 

1 


DUiVFERMLINE. 


891 


Mills  ;  and  connected  with  the  one  at  the  iron-mill,  near  Charles- 
ton, is  a  Saw-mill,  both  of  which  are  driven  by  the  same  wheel. 
There  are  in  the  town  four  Dye-works. 

There  is  only  one  Flour  Mill,  which  is  in  Monastery  Street, 
named  the  Heugh  Mill.  It  was  erected  in  1784  or  1787,  and 
was  driven  by  water  till  1819,  when  the  present  proprietor  appli- 
ed to  it  a  steam-engine,  that  it  might  continue  regularly  in  opera- 
tion, during  summer  as  well  as  winter.  Since  that  period,  the 
mill  has  manufactured,  on  an  average,  7194  bolls  of  wheat  an- 
nually. 

Navigation. — The  shipping  at  Limekilns  and  Charleston  in 
December  J  843  was  as  follows  : — 

Tons.  Men. 
Limekilns,         6  Brigs,  -  -     980  -  60 

—  7  Schooners,         •  641    -  45 

—  16  Sloops,        -         -     738         -  57 

—  1  Pinnace,  -  16    -  2 
Charleston,        2  Schooners,    -          -     137  -  10 

—  4  Sloops,    -  -  121    -  11 

Average  wages  per  month  : — 

For  Brigs,  Masters  from  L.6        to  L.7  and  L.8. 

Schooners,  —        I,.4,  10s.  to  L.5  and  L.6. 

Sloops,  _       L.4         to  L.4,  10s. 

Mates  from  L.2, 10s.  to  L.3, 10s.  and  L.4 ;  seamen  from  L.2  to  L.2, 10s.,  and  boys 
from  10s.  to  L.l,  5s. 

Several  of  these  vessels  are  employed  during  the  summer  in 
carrying  lime  from  the  harbour  of  Charleston ;  and  many  vessels 
from  the  east  coast  of  Fife,  and  from  the  continent  of  Europe, 
come  thither  for  lime  and  coal. 

Banks. — There  are  four  branches  of  banking  houses  in  Dun- 
fermline ;  one  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  established  in  September 
1781 ;  a  second,  of  the  British  Linen  Company,  which  was  first 
established  in  August  1804,  and  after  having  been  given  up  for 
many  years,  was  re-opened  in  July  1831-;  a  third,  of  the  Com- 
mercial Bank,  begun  in  1812,  but  afterwards  withdrawn,  and  again 
permanently  established  in  June  1823;  and  a  fourth,  of  the  Edin- 
burgh and  Leith  Bank,  begun  on  22d  May  1840.  The  National 
Bank  has  had  a  bill-collector  here  since  April  1825. 

National  Security  Savings  Bank.— A  savings  bank  was  established 
inDunfermhne  m  1815,  and  connected  with  the  National  Security 
Savings  Bank  in  1838.  Its  business  is  greatly  increased  in  conse- 
quence of  this  connection,  the  amount  of  the  sums  deposited  for 
ten  years  previous  to  1838,  reckoned  on  the  30th  of  April  of  that 
year,  varying  from  L.52467  to  L.4439 ;  while  from  the  20th  No- 


892 


FIFESHIllE. 


vember  1838  to  the  1st  June  1841,  it  varied  from  L.5370  to 
L.  15,251. 

The  following  were  the  sums  invested  yearly,  and  the  number 
of  depositors,  during  the  ten  years  above  mentioned,  viz.  from 
30th  April  1828  to  30th  April  1837,  both  inclusive : — 

Sums  deposited.  No.  of  depositors, 

1828,  -  -  L.2467    3    4         -         -  440 

1829,  -  -  2616  5  1  -  -  438 
J830,         -          -     3964  17    2         -         -  418 

1831,  -  -  2990  12   4     -  -  406 

1832,  -  -     3075  16    5  -  -  406 

1833,  -  -  3242    6    8     -  -  423 

1834,  -  -     3489    9    0         -  -  430 

1835,  -  -  3664  10    6     -  -  42] 

1836,  -  -     4109  13    9         -         -  460 

1837,  -  -  4439  10    9     -  -  488 

Tabular  view  of  the  progressive  advance  of  the  Institution,  from 
its  commencement  on  the  18th  September  1838  to  20th  No- 
vember 1842. 

At  No.  of  ac-  Amount  de-  Principal  sums  Transactions 

20th  Nov.    counts  opened.  posited.  and  interest  repaid. 

1838  430  L.5370  12    9  L.  107  13    1  605 

1839  435  8203    7    2  3276  13    2  2508 

1840  310  6739  13    3  4024  17    9  2916 

1841  338  7718    3    4  5639    6  11  3205 

1842  212  6611  12  10  7585  12    0  2956 


1725        L.34,643    9    4        L.20,634   2  11  12190 

The  number  of  depositors,  at  20th  November  1842,  was  990. 
Of  these,  there  were  accounts  containing  sums 

Under  L.5,          .  •  336 

From  L.5  to  L.IO,  .          •  185 

10  to     20,  .  209 

...      20  to     50,  .          .  191 

...      50  to    100,  .  47 

...    100  to    200,  .          .  11 

Charitable  Societies,  •  10 

Friendly       Do.  .          •  1 

990 

Classification  of  Depositors,  by  their  designations,  who  have 
opened  Accounts  from  18th  September  1838  to  20th  November 
1842. 

FEMALES. 

209 

Domestic  servants,  •  •  •  •  * 

Farm  domestic  servants,  •  •  /     •      i,  '  u 

Single  women,  without  designation,  generally  persons  keeping  house  by 

themselves,  or  for  a  father,  or  other  relative,       •  _           •      .  • 
Married  women,  without  designation,  generally  the  wives  of  operatives,    ^  .  59 
Widows,  designated  simply  as  such,               •             '      .       "      .  45 
Minors,                  •  .           •             '             *             '  63 
Miscellaneous  designations,  .  .  •  •   

Total  number  of  accounts  opened  by  females,       .  775 


DUNFERMLINE. 


893 


MALES. 

Weavers,             .             .             .             .             .'  .252 

Mechanics  and  operatives  of  all  kinds,           .             .             .  ]55 

Coal-hewers,  miners,  quarryraen,  and  labourers,  .  .  .108 
Farmers,  and  farm-servants,  and  others  engaged  in  agricultural  employment,  107 

Minors,                  .              .              ,              .              ,  .76 

Miscellaneous  designations,             ....  168 

No  designation,       .             .             .             .             ,  .62 

Total  number  of  accounts  opened  by  males,       .  .  928 

Ditto  ditto  females,  .  775 

Ditto  ditto  societies,     .  .  22 

Total  accounts  opened,  .  .  1 725 

Sum  total  constituting  the  funds  of  the  Bank,  as  at  20th  No- 
vember 1842,  L.15,778,  9s.  6d.;  of  which  sum  L.5834,  15s.  2d. 
were  held  by  730  depositors,  of  not  more  than  L,20  each,  out  of 
990 ;  clearly  evincing  that  the  Bank  is  what  it  professes  to  be,— 
the  working-man's  bank,  and  that  the  operative  classes  generally 
continue  to  repose  in  it  their  wonted  confidence. 

A  marked  improvement  has  taken  place  since  November  1842 
'—so  much  so,  that  the  number  of  depositors  on  2d  November 
1843  was  1021,  while  the  total  funds  of  the  Bank,  on  20th  No- 
vember, were  L.18,232,  15s.  4d.;  and  on  12th  December  of  the 
same  year,  L.18,915,  17s.  lid. 

Guildry.~-T\\e  fraternity  is  of  very  great  antiquity  in  this  town, 
having  been  incorporated,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  by  a  charter 
from  the  monastery,  as  early  as  the  close  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury. Its  funds  are  applied  to  the  relief  of  its  decayed  members, 
and  widows  of  members  deceased,  and  to  educational  purposes! 
It  distributes  about  L.50  annually  in  charity. 

Incorporated  Trades.—These  are  eight  in  number,  and  stand 
m  order  of  precedency,  to  which  they  attach  some  importance, 
thus :— Smiths  or  hammermen,  weavers,  wrights,  tailors,  shoe- 
makers, baxters  (bakers),  masons,  and  fleshers.  They  have  each 
a  separate  charter,  named  a  gift,  or  seal  of  cause,  granted  bv  the 
mag^trates  and  town-council,  by  authority,  it  is  understood,  of 
the  Crown. 

There  are  several  Horticultural  Societies,  and  one  Ornitho- 
logical, in  the  parish. 

Western  District  of  Fife  Agricultural  Society. -The  meetings 
o  th.s  Society  are  held  in  Dunfermline  annually,  in  the  monfh 
of  July.  Its  yearly  subscriptions  average  from  L.40  to  L.50, 
and  are  expended  at  each  show  of  cattle  and  horses.  In  addition 
to  the  ordmary  annual  premiums,  occasional  extraordinary  pre- 


894 


FIFES  HI  RE. 


miums  are  awarded  at  the  exhibitions,  offered  by  the  Society, 
through  the  liberality  of  some  of  the  landed  gentlemen  of  the 
district.  Since  1824,  there  has  been  given  away  in  premiums 
considerably  upwards  of  L.IOOO. 

Gas  Com-pany. — This  was  instituted  11th  November  1828,  and 
its  extensive  work,  situated  towards  the  lower  end  of  the  town, 
commenced  lighting  on  the  28th  October  1829.  The  cost  of 
the  works,  up  to  May  1843,  was  L.1 1,277,  13s.  6d.,  being 
L.9200,  the  capital  stock  at  the  same  period  on  860  shares,  and 
L.2077,  13s.  6d.,  the  old  sinking  fund,  and  premiums  on  shares 
expended  on  works.  The  original  price  of  the  shares  was  L.IO, 
and  the  present  selling  price  is  L.21.  The  new  sinking  fund,  at 
May  last,  was  L.99'2,  7s.  Id.  A  dividend  upon  the  origipal 
stock  of  L.IO  per  cent,  has  been  paid  almost  every  year,  and  for 
the  last  four  years  of  L.12,  10s.,  notwithstanding  the  price  of  the 
gas  being  understood  to  be  as  modei'ate  as  that  of  any  other  com- 
pany, if  not  more  so.  It  is  furnished  at  present,  by  meter,  at  7s. 
6d.  per  1000  cubic  feet,  and  has  always  been  considered  of 
superior  quality. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Dunfermline  is  a  market  town  and  royal  burgh.  A  corn  mar- 
ket is  held  at  it  every  Tuesday  for  the  sale  of  grain  by  sample, 
and  is  well  attended  by  the  agriculturists  of  the  district.  There 
is  a  weekly  market  also  every  Friday  for  butter,  cheese,  eggs,  &c. 

The  burgh  is  governed  by  a  provost,  two  bailies,  a  treasurer,  a 
guild  magistrate,  a  chamberlain,  and  sixteen  councillors,  with  the 
assistance  of  a  town-clerk,  who  acts  also  as  legal  assessor.  Their 
election  is  regulated  by  the  general  amended  municipal  act  of 
Parliament,  dated  24th  August  1833.  The  provost  and.  magis- 
trates have  the  usual  jurisdiction,  civil  and  criminal,  belonging  to 
magistrates  of  royal  burghs.  They  hold  regular  courts,  with  the 
town  clerk  as  their  assessor,  once  every  week,  on  Wednesday,  for 
the  disposal  of  police  cases,  and  on  the  same  day,  besides  the 
ordinary  court,  what  is  denominated  "  The  Nine  Merk  Court," 
for  the  recovery  of  small  debts  not  exceeding  ten  shillings.  Upon 
the  decreet  of  this  last  court,  summary  diligence  can  be  executed. 
They  also  hold  a  court  twice  a-year  for  granting  certificates  to 
publicans.  The  provost  is  ex  officio  a  justice  of  the  peace,  and 
sits  in  the  courts  held  by  the  justices. 

The  annual  revenue  of  the  burgh  is  about  L.IOOO,  derived 
from  the  rents  of  five  small  farms  still  belonging  to  it,  &c.  The 


DUNFERMLINE. 


895 


burgh  pays  to  Government  yearly  the  sum  of  L.78  of  land-tax, 
or  town-cess,  besides  a  sum  of  L.8  or  L.IO,  in  support  of  the 
convention  of  royal  burghs,  all  levied  from  the  property  of  the  in- 
habitants within  burgh. 

Guild  Court. — Formerly  the  Dean  of  the  fraternity  of  Guildry 
was  a  member  of  Council,  and  presided  in  this  court.  Now,  the 
Guild  Magistrate  is  chosen  by  the  Council  themselves,  and  he 
and  four  councillors  form  the  court.  Their  duty  is  to  decide 
upon  questions  relative  to  ruinous  tenements,  and  disputed 
marches  within  burgh,  and  to  attend  to  the  correctness  of  weights 
and  measures. 

Police.— Id  1811,  a  police  bill  was  obtained  from  Parliament, 
not  only  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  police  of  the  town,  but 
of  granting  powers  for  paving,  lighting,  and  cleansing  the  streets 
—for  removing  nuisances  and  obstructions  therefrom,  and  for 
opening  new  and  widening  the  present  streets ;  and  likewise  for 
increasing  the  supply  of  water  for  the  use  of  the  burgh. 

This  act  has  done  much  good,  in  promoting  the  accommoda- 
tion, health,  security,  and  comfort  of  the  community ;  and,  by 
continued  vigorous  management,  it  may  be  expected  to  preserve 
and  increase  these  important  civil  advantages. 

A  county  police  having  been  lately  established,  Dunfermline 
has  been  made  the  head  quarters  for  the  western  district  of  the 
county,  where  an  inspector  and  two  constables  are  stationed. 

There  are  a  sherifif,  a  small  debt,  and  a  justice  of  peace  court. 

Dunfermline  unites  with  the  burghs  of  Stirling,  Inverkeithing, 
Culross,  and  South  Queensferry,  in  sending  a  Member  to  the 
British  House  of  Commons.  Stirling  is  the  returning  burgh,  and 
Lord  Dalmeny  the  present  member. 

Internal  Communication,  ^-c— Dunfermline  is  a  post-town. 

The  length  of  the  turnpike  roads  in  the  parish  is  about  thirty- 
one  miles. 

Two  coaches  daily  leave  Dunfermline  for  Edinburgh,  and  two 
return.  A  coach  goes  every  morning  to  Falkirk,  for  the  Ediu- 
burgh  and  Glasgow  Railway,  and  returns  in  the  evenino- 

The  bridges  and  fences  in  the  parish  are  in  good^coi^dition. 
i  here  bemg  no  rivers,  the  bridges  are  small. 

There  are  several  railroads,  chiefly  for  the  conveyance  of  coal  • 
one  from  the  Elgin  and  Wellwood  collieries  to  Charleston  har- 
hour,  and  another  from  the  Halbeath  and  Townhill  collieries  to 
the  port  at  Lnverkeithing, 


89G  FIFESHIRE. 

There  are  three  harbours  in,  or  close  to  the  parish,  belong- 
ing to  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  viz.  Charleston,  Limekilns,  and  Bruce- 
haven. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  Abbey  Parish  Church  is  situated  in 
the  town  of  Dunfermline,  about  two  miles  from  the  nearest,  and 
six  from  the  furthest  boundary  of  the  parish.  Of  course  it  is  not 
convenient  for  the  distant  part  of  the  population,  for  there  are 
1000  inhabited  dwelling-houses  more  than  two  miles,  one-half  of 
which  are  nearly  four,  about  15  are  further  than  four,  and  two  or 
three  are  about  six  miles  distant  from  the  church.  There  is  a 
dissenting  church  in  two  of  the  extreme  positions — Crossgates 
and  Limekilns. 

The  New  Abbey  Church  was  built  in  1821,  and  opened  for 
divine  service  on  the  30th  September  of  that  year.  It  needed 
repair  so  early  as  1834-5  from  dry-rot,  but  is  at  present  in  ex- 
cellent condition.  It  affords  nominal  accommodation  for  2051 
persons,  but  there  are  552  sittings  in  a  measure  useless,  from  in- 
convenient position,  402  of  these  being  behind  either  pillars  or 
the  pulpit,  so  that  the  minister  cannot  be  seen  from  them ;  and 
in  the  rest  he  can  scarcely  be  heard,  on  account  of  the  echo  or 
distance  from  the  speaker.  Indeed,  the  accommodation  which 
can  be  considered  available  is  only  about  1400,  and  much  of  this 
requires  and  could  receive  improvement.  Suggestions  for  this 
purpose  have  often  been  made,  and  some  of  them  tried,  with 
more  or  less  success,  but  none  of  them  have  yet  been  adopted. 
There  are  110  free  siuings  allocated  to  the  poor,  but  from  being 
considerably  behind  the  pulpit,  are  quite  useless,  and  never  occu- 
pied. A  few  temporary  forms  have  been  placed  for  their  use  near 
the  pulpit,  which  are  generally  well  filled.  This  want  of  due  ac- 
commodation for  the  poor  has  always  been  considered  a  great 
evil.  A  few  of  the  heritors  and  tenants  take  rents  for  then-  sit- 
tings, which  they  do  not  themselves  occupy.  The  burgh  having 
paid  a  fifth  of  the  expense  of  erecting  the  church,  obtained  a  fifth 
of  the  area  in  return,  and  have  accordingly  sold  several  of  their 
pews  to  private  individuals. 

From  time  immemorial,  there  had  been  neither  manse  nor  pas- 
ture-ground belonging  to  the  ministers  of  Dunfermline  ;  but  there 
were  paid  to  the  senior  minister,  in  lieu  of  the  former,  L.3,  6s.  8d., 
and  of  the  latter  L.l,  13s.  4d.  One  of  the  ministers,  during  last 
century,  sued  for  a  manse,  without  success  ;  but  the  late  Rev. 
Allan  M'Lean,  minister  of  the  first  charge,  having  discovered  that 


DUNFERMLINE. 


897 


anciently  there  had  been  a  manse,  renewed  the  action  in  1803, 
both  for  the  manse  and  pasture-ground,  and  succeeded,  first  in 
the  Court  of  Session,  and  afterwards  in  the  House  of  Peers,  on 
an  appeal  by  the  heritors,  after  a  litigation  of  ten  years.    He  ob- 
tained possession  of  the  present  manse  in  September  1816,  and 
remuneration  for  the  want  of  it  from  Martinmas  1804;  and  for 
that  of  the  grass  glebe  from  Martinmas  1803.    The  deficiency  in 
the  arable  glebe,  caused  by  the  manse  being  built  on  part  of  it, 
was  ordered  to  be  made  up,  along  with  the  ground  to  be  allocated 
for  the  grass  glebe.    An  allocation  took  place  by  the  Sheriff  of  the 
county  on  11th  July  1814,  but,  from  various  reasons,  the  desig- 
nation of  it  was  never  completed,  and  the  minister  has  not  yet 
obtained  possession.    The  heritors,  however,  paid  L.24  per  an- 
num, in  lieu  of  the  pasture  and  deficiency  of  the  arable  glebe,  till 
1840,  when,  by  mutual  agreement  between  them  and  the  present 
minister,  it  was  reduced  to  L.20,  and  to  continue  at  that  rate  till 
a  glebe  be  provided.    The  arable  glebe  is  at  present  nearly  3^ 
acres,  and  yields  a  rental  of  L.15  per  annum.    The  manse  under- 
went a  considerable  enlargement  and  repair,  partly  at  the  expense 
of  the  heritors,  and  partly  of  the  present  minister,  when  he  en- 
tered it  in  1836,  on  his  translation  from  the  second  to  the  first 
charge.   There  is  neither  manse  nor  glebe  attached  to  the  second 
charge.^    The  stipends  of  the  two  collegiate  ministers  are  the 
same,  viz.  19  chalders  of  victual,  one  half  meal  and  the  other  bar- 
ley, at  the  rate  of  the  Fife  fiars,  with  L.IO  for  communion  ele- 
ments each.    The  number  of  persons  that  communicated  at  the 
last  dispensation  of  the  sacrament,  in  December  1843,  was  nearly 
500,  only  about  200  less  than  the  average  for  these  some  years 
past,  in  winter,  notwithstanding  that  the  Episcopal,  North  Exten- 
sion, and  Free  Churches  have  been  opened  since  1840.  The 
number  of  communicants  on  the  roll  is,  of  course,  considerably 
greater.    The  present  minister  of  the  first  charge  is  the  Rev. 
Peter  Chalmers,  A.M.    The  second  charge  is  vacant. 

Qjioad  Sacra  Churches.— Theve  are  two  quoad  sacra  churches 
m  Dunfermline. 

1.  St  Andrew's,  which  was  once  a  Chapel  of  Ease.  The  sit- 
tings of  the  church  are  797.  There  are  also  a  house  and  garden. 
Present  mm.ster.  Rev.  Andrew  Sutherland,  A.M.,  admitted  28th 
March  1839.    He  has  joined  ihe  Free  Church. 

^•  ^orth  Church.— extension  church,  at  the  east  end  of 
Goifdrum,  was  opened  for  worship  in  November  1840,— sittings 

FIFE.  & 


898 


FIFESHIRE, 


800.  It  cost  L.1673,  of  which  were  raised  by  subscription  L.1002, 
and  received  from  the  General  Assembly's  Extension  Fund  L.41 1 ; 
drawback  on  materials,  interest  of  money,  and  revenue  from  church 
after  being  opened,  L.259 ;  so  that  it  is  free  from  debt.  No 
manse  or  garden.  Present  minister,  Rev.  Charles  Marshall,  ad- 
mitted June  1841, — who  has  subsequently  joined  the  Frfee  Church. 

From  1839  till  the  summer  of  1843  there  was  another  quoad 
sacra  church,  named  the  Canmore  Street  Church,  in  connection 
with  the  Establishment,  and  formerly  in  connection  with  the  Ori- 
ginal Burgher  Synod,  established  in  1799.  Its  last  minister. 
Rev.  William  Dalziel,  admitted  to  it  in  1815,  was  inducted,  in 
September  last,  minister  of  the  church  and  parish  of  Thurso,  and 
the  consrewation  have  connected  themselves  with  other  churches. 

Free  Churches. — There  are  at  present  (January  J  844)  three 
Free  Church  congregations  :  1.  St  Andrew's  ;  2.  North  Church; 
3.  The  Ahheij,  (or  as  at  first  called,  Abbey  and  Canmore  Street 
congregations,  from  most  of  the  elders  and  many  of  the  people  of 
the  latter  having  joined  the  former.) 

Dissenting  Churches.—  It  is  well  known  that  Dunfermline  has 
always  been  a  principal  seat  of  dissent,  ever  since  the  Secession 
from  the  Establishment  of  the  Rev.  Ralph  Erskine,  who  was  one 
of  the  parochial  ministers  here,  and  his  deposition  by  the  Gene- 
ral Assembly  in  1740,  when  he  became  one  of  the  chief  support- 
ers of  the  Associate  Synod,  and  had  a  large  congregation  in  thi* 
place ;  as  also,  since  the  deposition  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Gilles- 
pie, minister  of  Carnock  in  1752,  which  gave  rise  to  the  forma- 
tion of  the  first  Relief  congregation  in  Scotland,  in  this  town. 
The  following  are  the  churches  in  connection  with  one  or  other 
of  the  different  branches  of  dissent. 

There  are  six  churches  belonging  to  the  United  Associate  Synod. 

1.  Qiieeu  Anne  Street  congregation,  founded  in  1743,  under 
Rev.  Ralph  Erskine.  Sittings,  1642.  Stipend  L.200,  with  L.IO 
for  communion  elements,  and  house  and  garden.  Present  minis- 
ter, Rev.  James  Young,  admitted  June  1831. 

2.  St  Margaret's,  East  Port,  founded  1825,  in  consequence  of 
a  separation  from  Queen  Anne  Street  Congregation,  caused  by  a 
dispute  about  the  appointment  of  a  minister.  Sittings,  979.  Sti- 
pend L.175,  with  L.10  for  sacramental  expenses,  and  L.15  in  aid 
of  house  rent.  The  minister's  life  is  insured  by  the  congregation, 
for  the  benefit  of  his  family,  for  L.500.  Rev.  John  Law,  admit- 
ted 1828.  ^        ,  '    r        A  .• 

3.  Chalmers'  Street,  founded  in  1788,  formerly  of  the  Anti- 


DUNFERMLINE. 


899 


burgher  Synod.  Sittings,  430.  Stipend,  L.  120,  with  L.  8  for 
sacramental  expenses.    No  house  or  garden,  or  other  provision. 

4.  Maygate,  founded  in  September  1832,*  by  a  separation  from 
the  Chalmers'  Street  Congregation,  along  with  their  minister,  Mr 
Barks.  Sittings,  410.  Stipend,  L.lOO  to  L.120.  No  house  or 
garden.    Rev.  James  Gibson,  admitted  1841. 

5.  Limekilns,  founded  in  1784.  Sittings  of  New  Church  (built 
in  1825),  1056.  Stipend,  L.150,  with  L.IO  for  sacramental  ex- 
penses, and  a  house,  rebuilt  1841.  Rev.  William  Johnston,  ad- 
mitted 1823. 

6.  Crossgates,  founded  in  May  1803.  Sittings,  530.  Stipend, 
L.lOO,  with  L.8  for  sacramental  expenses,  and  house  and  garden. 
Rev.  Thomas  Wilson,  admitted  26th  November  1811. 

There  is  one  Belief  Congregation,  the  first  in  Scotland,  as 
stated  in  the  preceding  page,  founded  in  1752.  Sittings  of  the 
church.  North  Chapel  Street,  520.  Stipend  L.150,  with  a  house 
and  garden.  Rev.  Niel  M'Michael,  admitted  1835,  and  appointed 
Professor  of  Systematic  Theology  and  Chui'ch  History  1841. 

Scottish  Baptist  Church,  founded  about  1805.  Sittings  of 
church,  James'  Street,  310.  Pastors,  Mr  David  Dewar,  since 
1815,  and  Messrs  A.  Kirk  and  J.  Inglis.    Services  gratuitous. 

From  this  church  there  were,  in  1841,  two  separations.  The 
one  was  under  Mr  Blair,  as  their  pastor,  formerly  home  mission- 
ary, and  still  acting  as  such.  The  principles  of  this  body  are 
those  of  the  English  Baptists.  They  meet  in  the  Music  Hall, 
North  Inglis  Street.  The  other  was  of  persons  who  take  the  de- 
signation of  "  Christians"  from  Acts  xi.  26,  who  have  no  creed, 
oral  or  written,  but  the  Bible.  They  are  usually  styled  Camp- 
bellites,  after  a  Mr  Campbell  in  America,  to  whose  opinions  re- 
garding the  influence  of  the  Spirit,  and  instrumentality  of  the 
Word,  in  conversion,  they  are  understood  to  be  favourable.  They 
have  as  yet  no  pastor,  and  meet  in  the  Old  Mason  Lodge,  Maygate. 

Congregational  or  Independent  Church,  founded  in  1841.  Place  of 
worship  opened  in  Canmore  Street,  2d  Jan.  1 8^2.  Sittings  about 
700.  Stipend,  L.1 00.  Present  minister,  Rev.  "George  Thomson. 

Holy  Catholic  Apostolic  Congregation,  commonly  called  Bowite 
orlrvingite,  from  the  general  conformity  of  their  opinions  and  go- 
vernment to  those  of  the  religious  community  so  named,  founded 
m  183a.  Their  pastor  is  the  Rev.  William  Cannan,  who  at  pre- 
sent  resides  in  Dundee,  and  occasionally  visits  them.    In  his  ab- 

•  The  building  was  erected  in  I8I5_1G  for  a  Methodist  congregation. 


900 


FIFKSHIRE. 


sence  two  elders  conduct,  public  worship,  and  dispense  the  sacra- 
ments. They  meet  at  present  in  a  room  in  Horsemarket  Street. 
The  pastor  has  no  fixed  salary,  but  provision  is  made  for  him, 
partly  from  funds  contributed  by  the  united  body,  in  aid  of  weak 
congregations. 

Boman  Catholic  Congregation,  founded  in  1823.  Having  no  re- 
sident priest,  they  meet  in  the  dwelling-houses  of  two  of  their 
members,  who  conduct  the  usual  services,  but  of  course  do  not 
perform  mass. 

Scottish  Episcopal  {Trinity)  Chapel. — Founded  in  1840.  Sit- 
tings, 342  in  the  low  area,  and,  if  fitted  up  with  galleries,  about 
500.  Present  stipend,  L.IOO.  Rev.  T.  B.  Field,  admitted  De- 
cember 1 841. 

There  are  also  a  few  Swedenborgians,  Unitarians,  Methodists, 
and  Friends ;  but  the  last  three  have  no  separate  meetings  for 
worship. 

The  stipends  of  the  Dissenting  ministers  are  dependent  upon 
the  promise,  affection,  or  liberality  of  their  people,  although  gene- 
rally paid  according  to  the  amount  which  has  been  specified. 

The  population  of  the  parish,  as  taken  in  March  1836,  and  re- 
ported' to  the  Religious  Instruction  Commissioners,  without  chal- 
lenge, in  1838,  was  as  follows  : — 

1.  Belonging  to  the  Established  Church,        .    _      •  •  7006 

2.  Known  to  belong  to  other  religious  denominations,      .  .  y7/D 

3.  Mot  known  to  belong  to  any  religious  denomination,        .  niii 

Total,  .  17,286 

Since  that  period,  great  changes  have  taken  place;  but,  from 
an  ecclesiastical  census  taken  by  me  in  1841,  according  to  the 
Government  census  of  that  year,  and  from  information  recently 
obtained,  I  think  the  following  may  be  regarded  as  at  least  an 
approximation  to  the  present  number  of  persons,  of  all  ages,  be- 
longing to  the  different  religious  denominations  :— 

t    , r  1       .  .  4000* 

Establishment,    .  •  •  2300 

Free  Church,  .  •  *  gOOO 

United  Secession,  •  • 

Relief,    .  •  .  .  7U0 

Baptists — fames'  Street  and  Inglis'  Street )      _  300 

 Maygate,  ■  ) 

Episcopalians,              .                    •  • 
Congregationalists,                  .  • 
Rowitcs,                     •                    •  "100 
Roman  Catholics,                    .                    •  ^ 
Swedenborgians,  .  •  ' 

•  dalculaled  from  the  number  of  those  who  declared  themselves  in  1841  oo""^^'^;' 
Wl,  The  Si  hment,  after  deducting  about  1600,  as  mere  adherents,  put 

huu  tllu  vllru;         k'nown,-  &c.,  and  2500,  stated  to  belong  to  the  Free  Church, 


DTJN1<'KRMLINK.  901 

Unitarians,         .                    .                     •  35 

Methodists  and  Friends,                      .                    .  20 
Not  known  to  belong  to  any  denomination^  including  some 

Chartists  and  Socialists,  about      .                   .  3433 


Total,  .  19,778 


Divine  service,  it  is  believed,  has  been  generally  well  attended 
in  the  different  churches,  according  to  the  number  acknowledged 
to  belong  to  them,  till  within  these  last  two  years,  when,  chiefly 
from  the  poverty  caused  by  the  long  depression  of  trade,  it  has 
in  most  of  them  considerably  fallen  off. 

A  missionary  (Mr  Joseph  Hay)  has  been  employed  during 
these  last  two  or  three  years  in  visiting  the  town  of  Dunfermline. 
His  services  meet  with  much  acceptance.  He  receives  from  L.40 
to  L.50  of  salary,  paid  by  the  inhabitants  generally,  without  regard 
to  religious  denomination.    He  belongs  to  the  United  Secession. 

Religious  Societies. — There  are  a  Bible  and  a  Sabbath  School 
Society  in  the  parish.  Sums  are  likewise  raised  privately  and  by 
collections  for  the  support  of  native  missionaries  and  of  Female 
Education  in  India. 

The  Dissenting  congregations  collect  annually  for  missionary 
purposes. 

The  Abbey  parish  church  collects  regularly  for  each  of  the  five 
Schemes  of  the  General  Assembly,  as  well  as  occasionally  for 
other  religious  and  charitable  purposes  ;  the  average  annual 
amount  of  which  for  seven  years,  viz.  1836-42  inclusive,  has  been 
nearly  L.50.  It  besides  collected,  previous  to  the  commence- 
ment of  the  legal  assessment  in  1839,  about  L.120  annuallyj  for 
the  ordinary  parochial  and  extraordinary  poor ;  but  since  that  pe- 
riod, such  collections  have  been  reduced  to  about  a  third  of  that  sum. 

The  St  Andrew's  and  North  Churches  have  also  made  collec- 
tions for  several  of  the  Assembly's  Schemes,  and  other  religious 
and  useful  purposes. 

Education. — The  total  number  of  schools,  in  1814,  in  the  ori- 
ginal or  quoad  civilia  parish,  exclusive  of  North  Queensferry,  was 
82.  There  is  no  parochial,  but  there  is  one  burgh  school.  Of 
the  others,  there  are  15  partly  endowed,  and  6  unendowed.  One 
school  in  town  is  supported,  in  part,  by  a  society  of  ladies.  The 
endowment  in  general  consists  either  of  a  salary  or  a  free  school- 
room, or  one  or  both  of  these,  and  a  free  dwelling-house.  The 
unendowed  schools  are  entirely  on  the  teachers'  own  adventure. 
The  total  number  of  teachers  at  all  these  schools  was  37,  and  of 
scholars,  exclusive  of  those  attending  evening  schools,  2622,  or 


902 


FlFESHIllE. 


about  1  in  7i  of  the  population,  a  considerable  improvement  since 
March  1842,  when  it  was  only  about  1  in  8^. 

There  are  two  infant  and  five  female  schools  in  the  parish. 
There  is  connected  with  the  large  female  school  in  High  Street^ 
Dunfermline,  a  deposit  fund,  for  aiding  Ihe  poor,  in  procuring 
clothes,  one-third  more  being  added  to  the  amount  of  their  own 
contributions,  and  repaid  in  clothing. 

At  the  RoUand,  or  Priori/  Lane  School,  there  are  between  180 
or  190  children  taught,  almost  all  of  the  working  and  poorer  clas- 
ses, the  fee  for  English  reading  being  only  2s.  per  quarter.  It  is 
under  the  direction  of  the  magistrates  and  council,  who,  by  a  late 
arrangement  with  the  burgh  creditors,  hold  it  as  trustees  for  the  in- 
stitution, unaffectable  now  for  burgh  debts. 

At  the  MacLean  School,  Golfdrum,  opened  in  1842,  the  fees  are 
on  a  low  and  graduated  scale,  to  suit  the  working  and  poorer  classes. 

There  are  from  30  to  40  children  taught  gratuitously  at  this 
school,  on  a  legacy  of  the  late  Rev.  Allan  M'Lean,  minister  of 
the  parish,  out  of  whose  funds,  with  some  aid  from  Government, 
this  educational  establishment  was  erected.  The  legacy  consists 
of  a  dwelling-house  and  some  ground,  both  adjacent  to  the  school; 
the  rent  and  feus  of  which  go  to  the  purpose  specified.  It  is  un- 
der the  management  of  the  kirk-session  of  the  Abbey  Church. 

The  children  taught  gratis  receive  the  same  branches  of  edu- 
cation with  those  who  pay.  '  The  total  number  attending  the 
schools  is  about  200. 

At  all  the  collieries  there  are  excellent  schools,  and  as  the  pay- 
ments are  now  made  universal  and  compulsory,  there  is  a  much 
more  regular  attendance  than  formerly. 

A  few  years  ago,  four  or  five  deaf  and  dumb  children,  belonging 
to  the  parish,  were  taught  in  Rolland  School  for  two  years  and  a 
half,  by  a  deaf  and  dumb  young  woman,  also  a  native  of  it,  who 
bad  previously  received  a  good  education  in  the  Edinburgh  In- 
stitution. The  experiment,  which  was  undertaken  by  the  writer, 
from  inability  to  procure  funds  for  sending  so  many  of  these  help- 
less children  to  a  public  institution,  and  persevered  in  by  him  amid 
many  discouragements,  succeeded  far  beyond  his  expectations,  and 
evinced  the  entire  practicability  of  the  deaf  and  dumb  teaching 
others,  in  the  same  unhappy  condition.  The  want  of  a  sufficient 
supply  of  suitable  books  and  other  materials  prevented  the  expe- 
riment being  carried  to  its  full  extent ;  but  funds  coming  to  be  at 
his  disposal,  from  a  bequest  of  his  late  colleague,  some  of  (he  chil- 


DUNFERMLINE. 


903 


dren  were  sent  to  the  deaf  and  dumb  institution  in  Glasgow,  who 
made  very  rapid  progress  in  their  farther  education,  and  in  reh- 
gious  knowledge  and  character. 

Literature. — The  Dunfermline  Library  was  instituted  on  the 
26th  of  February  1789,  and  contains  nearly  3000  volumes,  the 
property  of  the  shareholders,  and  embracing  standard  works  ni 
till  the  departments  of  general  knowledge. 

There  is  also  a  Tradesmen's  and  Mechanics'  Library,  being  a 
union  of  two  libraries,  one  of  the  Tradesmen's,  instituted  in  1808, 
and  the  other  belonging  to  the  Mechanics'  Institution,  which  was 
joined  to  it  in  1832.  The  united  library  contains  about  2000 
volumes,  well  selected  in  all  the  departments  of  science  and  art, 
moral  and  political  philosophy,  history,  theology,  &c. 

There  is  also  a  Circulating  Library  kept  at  Bridge  Street,  by 
Mr  Miller,  bookseller. 

The  Abbey,  St  Andrew's,  and  some  other  congregations  in 
town,  have  good  libraries  of  religious  books  connected  with  them. 

A  Scientific  Association  was  formed  in  1834,  which  has  always 
been  popular,  and  the  admission  ticket  being  low,  the  attendance 
has  been  numerous.  Useful,  and  at  times  interesting  and  attrac- 
tive, courses  of  lectures  have  been  delivered  each  winter,  in  one 
of  the  Dissenting  churches,  since  its  commencements 

Dunfermline  has  one  public  reading-room  in  the  Town-Hall, 
three  printing-offices,  and  four  booksellers.  There  are  two 
monthly  advertising  papers,  containing  also  some  general  informa- 
tion, published  alternately,  once  a-fortnight,  the  one  named  the 
"  Dunfermline  Advertiser,"  and  the  other  the  "  Dunfermline 
Journal,"  each  having  a  circulation  of  about  3000. 

Charitable  and  other  Institutions. — A  Poor's  House  has  been 
erected  by  the  Poor's  Board  in  the  upper  part  of  the  Town  Green, 
east  from  the  burgh.    It  is  supported  by  the  ordinary  legal  as- 
sessment, and  the  revenue  arising  from  Reid's  Mortification,  a 
property  bequeathed  by  John  Reid,  shopkeeper  in  Dunfermline, 
in  a  deed  dated  17th  April  1776,  for  the  relief  of  poor  house- 
holders and  other  persons,  who  had  once  been  in  good  worldly 
circumstances,  but  which  was,  by  an  express  provision  in  said 
deed,  to  be  applied  to  a  poor's-house  or  orphan-house,  when  built 
in  the  parish.    The  rental  of  this  property  exceeds  L.100  an- 
nually.   The  poor's-house  accommodates  about  130  inmates  of 
various  classes. 

Grume's  Mortification, — In  the  year  1710,  six  hundred  merks 


904 


FIFESUIUE. 


Scots  (L.33,  6s.  8d.  sterling),  the  money  found  in  the  poor's  box 
at  the  death  of  Mr  Grame,  the  last  Episcopal  clergyman  of  Dun- 
fermline, was,  by  the  Justices  of  the  Peace,  Heritors,  and  Town- 
Council,  mortified  in  the  hands  of  the  Town-Council,  for  the  use 
of  the  poor.  The  town,  at  the  same  time,  came  under  an  obli- 
gation to  pay  the  interest  yearly — one  half  to  the  poor  of  the 
burgh,  and  the  other  half  to  the  poor  in  the  landward  part  of  the 
parish.  On  19th  April  1757,  the  town  paid  L,50  Scots,  as  in- 
terest for  five  years,  to  a  meeting  of  heritors  and  session,  which 
was  forthwith  ordered  to  be  paid  to  the  poor  in  the  landward  part 
of  the  parish.  Whether,  or  how  it  has  been  subsequently  applied, 
I  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain. 

Jermin's  Mortification. — The  donor  and  original  amount  of 
this  bequest  seem  at  present  equally  unknown,  but  it  is  also  in 
the  hands  of^the  Town  Council,  and  small  payments  have  at  dif- 
ferent periods  been  made  from  it  to  the  poor,  as  in  1829  of  L.5, 
in  1830  and  1832  of  L.l,  l4s.,  and  in  1832  of  17s.  (id.  No 
payments  have  been  made  since  the  trust  commenced  in  1835. 

St  Leonardos  Hospital. — This  is  the  most  ancient  charitable 
institution  now  in  the  parish,  but  the  exact  date  of  it  has  not  been 
ascertained.  The  object  of  it  was  the  maintenance  of  eight 
widows,  each  of  whom  was  entitled  to  four  bolls  of  meal,  four  bolls 
of  malt,  eight  loads  of  coal  (now  converted  into  4d.  per  load), 
eight  lippies  of  fine  wheat,  eight  lippies  of  groats  (dressed  oats), 
and,  according  to  one  account,  also  fourteen  loads  of  turf  yearly, 
with  a  chamber  in  the  Hospital,  and  a,  small  garden.  Some  of 
them  had  also  at  one  time  2s.  silver  yearly  to  buy  pins.  The  pro- 
vision for  them  is  payable  from  the  produce  of  sixty-four  acres  of 
land,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  place  where  the  Hospital 
once  stood.  The  average  annual  amount  received  by  each  of  them, 
for  the  last  five  years,  has  been  L.8,  9s.  3d.,  with  a  small  deduc- 
tion for  collecting  and  public  assessments,  and  Id.  for  pin  money. 

Pitreavie's  Hospital. — In  the  year  1675,  Sir  Henry  Wardlaw 
of  Pitreavie,  Baronet,  "  for  implement  and  fulfilling  of  several 
vows,  promises,  and  engagements,  made  by  him  before  God,  after 
great  mercies  received,  and  for  certain  other  good  causes,  motives, 
and  considerations,"  instituted  an  hospital  at  the  village  of  Mas- 
terton,  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  the  parish,  a  house  of  four 
rooms,  still  remaining,  in  favour  of  four  widows,  "  women  of 
honest  fame,  relicts  of  honest  husbands,  who  live  on  the  ground 
of  Pitreavie,  or  other  ground  belonging  to  him  and  iiis  succes- 


DUNFEUMLINE. 


905 


sors,"  and  failing  widows  of  this  description^  such  other  honest 
women  as  the  patron  shall  please  to  prefer.  Each  of  the  widows 
was  to  have  a  chamber  in  the  hospital,  and  six  bolls  of  meal 
yearly,  or  one  half  oats,  the  other  bear,  at  the  option  of  the 
patron.  The  eighth  (auchtand)  part  of  the  lands  of  Masterton 
was  burdened  with  the  provision  of  these  twenty-four  bolls  victual. 

Friendly  Societies. — In  1815  there  were  twelve  Friendly  So- 
cieties in  the  parish,  and  the  number  increased  afterwards ;  but  a 
few  years  ago  most  of  them  were  found  to  have  been  formed  upon 
a  very  insecure  basis,  and  they  are  now  almost  all  extinct. 

Those  which  remain  are  the  following: —  \ 

\st,  "  The  ancient  Society  of  Gardeners,  in  and  about  Dun- 
fermline." This  is  understood  to  be  the  most  ancient  Gardeners' 
Society  existing.  The  exact  date  of  its  institution  is  unknown, 
but  it  existed,  as  appears  from  its  records,  as  early  at  least  as  the 
16th  October  1716. 

'2d,  Dunfermline  Philanthropic  Society. — This  Society  was 
constituted  17th  March  1815,  and  its  articles  were  confirmed  at 
Cupar  on  the  4th  March  1817,  and  revised  1st  November  1835. 
With  the  exception  of  the  Society  of  Gardeners,  this  is  the  only 
one  in  town  which  has  survived  the  fall  of  the  numerous  similar 
societies  which  previously  existed,  in  regard  at  least  to  the  sick- 
ness scheme. 

3.  Dunfermline  Equitable  Friendly  Institution.— -l^Kis  was  be- 
gun 9th  February  1827,  and  confirmed  at  Cupar  on  the  28th 
March  1831. 

^th.  There  are  many  other  strictly  funeral  societies,  one  of 
which,  entitled  "  The  Woodhead  Street  Benevolent  Funeral  So- 
ciety," was  instituted  26th  January  1821,  and  confirmed  21st  May 
1833. 

bth,  There  are  also  "  Yearly  Societies  "  in  the  town  of  Dun- 
fermhne,  both  for  sick  and  funeral  purposes,  the  constitution  of 
which  is  peculiar.  Each  member  pays  not  less  than  Is.  weekly, 
the  whole  of  which  he  is  entitled  to  receive  back  at  the  end  of 
the  year,  if  not  previously  paid.  These  societies  are  safe,  and 
have  been  found  very  beneficial  to  the  working  classes. 

6th,  There  are  also  societies  called  "  Menages,"  on  the  same 
principle  as  the  yearly  societies,  but  without  the  provision  for  sick 
and  funeral  expenses. 

llh,  Malcolm  Canmore  Lodge  of  the  Independent  Order  of  Odd 
Fellotvs  was  instituted  here  on  the  19th  April  1842,  .in  connec- 


906 


FIFESHIRE. 


tion  with  the  Manchester  Unity.  It  has  assumed  "  Malcolm 
Canmore  "  into  its  title,  in  memory  of  the  Scottish  monarch,  who 
was  so  closely  connected  with  this  place. 

8th,  Rechabites. — A  Tent  of  the  independent  new  order  of  this 
race  of  persons,  named  the  "  Robert  the  Bruce "  Tent,  was 
formed  in  Dunfermline  1841.  The  principal  feature  of  their 
character  is,  that  they  will  drink  neither  wine  nor  strong  drink ; 
and,  in  a  spirit  of  brotherly  kindness,  they  are  associated  for  the 
purpose  of  granting  assistance  during  sickness  and  at  bereavements 
by  death. 

9th,  Charleston  Friendly  Relief  Society,  instituted  1784. 
IQth,  Charleston  Sick  Fund,  instituted  about  1841. 
Wth,  Limekilns  Merchant  Seamen^ s  Fund,  Sl  national  one,  in- 
stituted by  act  of  Parliament,  in  August  1834. 

\^th,  Limekilns  United  Seamen's  Society,  instituted  about 
three  years  ago. 

\Qth,  At  Charleston  and  Limekilns,  there  are  also  Funeral 
Societies — the  one  at  the  former  village  consisting  of  about  200, 
and  at  the  latter  of  300  members. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — Till  1815,  there  was  a  voluntary 
assessment  laid  annually  upon  the  heritors  resident  and  non-resi- 
dent, in  proportion  to  their  respective  valued  rents,  and  made 
over  to  the  kirk-session,  to  be  distributed  to  the  poor  on  their 
list,  among  whom  were  a  few  Dissenters.    The  average  amount 
of  this  assessment  for  ten  years,  extending  from  January  1807  to 
January  1817,  was  nearly  L.300,  and  the  average  annual  amount 
of  collections  in  the  parish  church  and  chapel  of  ease,  during  the 
same  period,  was  L.71,  from  which,  and  the  money  obtained  from 
burying  ground,  along  with  the  rents  of  a  little  property  in  the 
hands  of  the  kirk-session,  about  100  paupers  were  supported. 
The  Dissenters  at  that  time  generally  maintained  their  own  poor. 
In  1815,  a  Voluntary  Association  for  support  of  the  poor  was 
formed,  managed  by  a  committee  of  heritors,  ministers,  and  in- 
habitants of  all  religious  denominations  ;  the  funds  of  which  were 
raised  by  subscriptions  from  the  heritors  and  householders,  from 
annual  collections  in  the  chapel  of  ease  and  dissenting  churches, 
and  from  one  general  annual  collection,  at  a  sermon  preached  for 
the  purpose,  in  one  of  the  largest  churches.    The  kirk-session 
did  not  enter  into  this  Association,  but  retained  their  own  collec- 
tions and  property,  the  proceeds  of  which  they  distributed  among 
as  many  poor  of  the  Establishment  as  these  funds  would  allow  of. 


DUNKERMLINE. 


907 


908 


FIFESHIRE. 


Tabular  View  of  the  Working  of  the  Legal  Assessment,  for  the 
first  four  complete  years  of  its  existence. 


1.  Total  number  of  ordinary 
poor,  including  the  fatuous,  on 
the  roll  for  twelve  months,  end- 
ing on  31st  January, 

On  16th  of  May,' 

2.  Total  number  of  occasional 
poor  relieved  during  the  same  pe- 
riod, 

3.  Total  number  of  insane  poor 
in  asylums, 


I.  POOR. 


1839^0  403 

"i  1840-41  395 

1841-  42  422 

1842-  43  431 

For  1840   ..168 

1841   

1842  about 
1843  1 

For  1840  6 

1841  6 

1842  8 

1843  8t 


Average. 
412 


678 


4.  Miscellaneous, 


Irew's  ) 
For 


9 
18 
13 
L.2 
I 
1 
0 


H.  FUNDS, 

,  ^  „    .      .    u    All     D     CFo''  1840,  L.21 

1.  Collections  in  the  Abbey  Pa-  \        jg^|  jg 

fish  Church  (one  half)  for  period  <  1842* 
above  specified,f  .  I843i 

For  1840, 

2.  Total  ditto  in  St  Andrew's  )  1841, 
unendowed  Church  for  ditto,        j        1 842, 

1843, 

For  1840,  L.2260 

„    .  o  1841,  2244 

a  Assessment,§  J84.2^  2275 

1843,  2659 

For  1840,  L.l 

1841, 

1842, 

1843, 

Total  receipts  for  these  four  years, 
Average  of  ditto. 


8 
8 
2 
0 
12 
12 
8 
17 
0 
17 
17 
0 
0 

none, 
none. 
11  10 


0 

9 

1 

6 

0 

9^ 
IJ 
11 

0 

0 

5 

2 

0 


( 
1 


L.I7  19  10 


I  12  lOf 


2339  18  73 


3   2  7 


L.9530  15  104 
2382  13  114 


in.  APPLICATION  OF  FUNDS. 


1 .  Amount  given  to  paupers  on 
the   Permanent    roll,  including  I 
clothing,  coals,  medicines,  and . 
funeral  charges,  for" the  year  end- 
ing as  above, 


For  1840,  L.1344  19  11 

1841,  1414  12  lOl 

1842,  1598  15  8| 

1843,  1614  16  10 


L.l  493    6  S3 


•  3i  months,  viz.  from  2d  February  to  15th  May  1841,  are  omitted  in  the  calcu- 
lation, the  Board  having  found  it  expedient  to  change,  at  that  period,  the  time  of 
reckoning  the  commencement  of  the  year,  making  it  from  Whitsunday  instead  of 
Candlemas. 

f  Of  these  eight,  three  are  at  Dundee  and  two  at  Edinburgh  Asylums,  while  three 
are  in  the  poor's  house,  having  been  brought  to  it  from  Dundee  this  last  summer. 
Another  was  added  to  the  poor's  house  in  December  1843;  in  all  at  present,  9. 

Previous  to  the  legal  assessracnt  in  1839,  the  whole  ordinary  collections  for  the 


noor  averaged  L.  90,  and  along  with  the  extraordinary  for  ditto,  L.120. 

S  This  assessment  included  a  sum  of  L.500  per  annum,  applicable  towards  the 
erection  of  a  Poor's  house.    This  was  continued  till  May  1843.     A  revenue,  some- 


what exceeding  L.  100  annually,  derived  from  Reid's  mortification,  now  becomes 
available  for  the  Poor's  house,  since  its  erection  in  184.3. 

1 


DUNFERMLINE. 


909 


2.  Amount  given  to  paupers  ( 
on  Occasional  roll,  during  the< 
same  period,  .  ^_ 

3.  Ditto  to  paupers  residing  J 
out  of  the  parish, 


For 


4.  Ditto  to  insane  paupers  j 
at  Asylums,* 


For 


1 


5.  Expense  of  levying  the  C 
assessment  and  general  ma-K 
nagement,f         .         •  I 

6.  Expense  caused  by  pro-  ^  For 
secuting  the  fathers  of  illegiti- 
mate children,  and  husbands 
absconding. 

For 


1840,  L.  142  0 

1841,  159  15 

1842,  173  15 

1843,  286  6 

1840,  none. 

1841,  L.  49  4 

1842,  67  14 

1843,  110  14 

1840,  L.126  0 

1841,  144  18 

1842,  168  8 

1843,  145  5 

1840,  L.  170  0 

1841,  84  3 

1842,  lOo  5 

1843,  103  10 


7.  Miscellaneous, 


Total  expenditure  for  four  years, 
Average  yearly  expenditure. 


ro-  r 
iti- J 
idsi 

{For 


1840, 
1841, 
1842, 
1843, 

1840, 
1841, 
1842, 
1843, 


none. 
L.9  16 
8  12 
5  8 

L.83  17 
73  II 
45  17 
56  15 


10   I  Average. 
10   rL.190    9  5J 

4  J 

1} 
} 

} 


5a  18  4f 


-L.146    2  Hi 


-L.115  14  8 


6  ^L.5  19  34 
0 


11 

0 


g  ^  L.65  0  6| 
10 

L.8294    6  6 

L.2073  11  74 


IV.  MANAGEMENT. 


1.  Number  of  persons  giving  their  services  gratui- 
tously, in  looking  after  the  poor,  and  having  a  district 
set  apart  to  each  for  his  superintendence.  These, 
along  with  some  members,  not  attached  to  any  par- 
ticular district,  constitute  the  Poor's  Board,  and  are 
elected  by  the  rate-payers  annually,  voting /jer  capita, 


For  1840, 
1841, 
1842, 
1843, 


60 
60 
60 
72 


2.  Number  of  persons  vi'ho  receive  salaries,  viz. 
manager,  clerk,  surgeon,  and  officer,f 


3.  Number  of  persons  employed  in  levying  the  as- 
sessment, ..... 


;} 


4 


For  1840, 
1841, 
1842, 
1843, 

For  1840,  3 

1841,  2 

1842,  1 
I        1843,  1 

Total  number  of  persons  employed  in  1842^43  gratuitously  or  with  ) 
salaries,  m  the  management  of  the  poor,  exclusive  of  a  few  additional  > 
members  of  the  Board.  .  i 

The  assessment  for  1841-42  was,  on  a  rental  of  L.5 1,074,  at  Is.,  and  for 
1842-43,  L.50,644,  lOs.,  at  Is,  2d.  per  pound,  with  an  exemption  for  all 
rents  under  L.3. 

•  The  expense  of  each  lunatic  at  the  Asylum  is,  about  L,21  yearly. 
.  \  oTn^-^^'^'  difference  between  these  sums  arose  from  the  extra  assistance  required 
in  1«40,  in  surveying  the  property  in  burgh  anil  landward,  for  obtaining  a  correct 
valuation,  &c.,  and  from  an  addition  being  made  in  1842  to  the  surgeon's  sal.-iry 

I  Manager's  salary,  L.70  per  annum  ;  surgeon's,  L,21  ;  clerk's,  L.IO  ;  officer's, 


76 


910 


FIFESHIUE. 


Classification  of  Rates  of  Aliment  paid  to  the  Ordinary  Poor 
 the  Roll,  at  Whitsunday  1841-43. 


on 


1841 
1842 
1843 


Rates  per  Month. 


CO 


TO 


9987 


CO 


CO 

g 

"a 

o 
H 


417 
422 
431 


Average  number  of  cases  in  1841-43,  423. 


Average  monthly  allowance  for 


8 
5 
8k 


1840,  L.O 

1841,  0 
1 1842,  0 
,  1843,      0    5  11 

the  average  of  the  whole  of  which  is  5s.  8d.,  being  only  5d.  more 
than  was  paid  during  the  last  year  of  the  Voluntary  Association, 
namely,  5s.  3d. 

Average  annual  allowance  to  each  case  on  the  permanent  roll  for  12  months,  end- 
ing 31st  January  1840,  -  .  .  .  L380 

  1841,  -  .  .  -350 

Whitsunday  1842,  -  -  .  .  3    8  6 


Average  for  18'40-43,       -       L.3    8  1 

Prison. — The  present  prison  has  lately  been  enlarged,  and 
much  improved  in  its  arrangements  and  security,  but  is  still  defi- 
cient in  accommodation. 

The  following  tables  may  be  interesting  and  useful : — 
Table  I. — Age  of  Criminal  Prisoners  received  from  1st  July 
1842  to  1st  July  1843,  as  recorded  on  admission. 


1  2 

3 

4 

5 

17  years  & 

21  years  & 

50  years  & 

Under  17.     under  21. 

under  50. 

above. 

Totals. 

Males,       -       40  38 

Ill 

4 

193 

Females,       -     4  13 

32 

11 

60 

Totals,       44  51 

143 

15 

253 

Table  II. — Previous  Imprisonment  in  the 

said  Prison 

of  Crimi- 

nal  Prisoners  received,  during  the  said  period. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

Once 
before. 

1  Twice. 

Three 
times. 

Four 
times. 

Five 
times. 

Six  times 
and  under 
Ten. 

Ten  times 
i  and  under 
Twenty. 

Totals, 

Males, 
Females, 

19 

5 

20 
3 

7 
4 

4 

2 

4 

2 

7 
1 

2 
2 

63 
19 

Totals, 

24 

23 

11 

6 

0 

8 

4 

82 

DUNFERMLINE. 


911 


Table  III. — Total  number  convicted,  and  sentenced  to  Im- 
prisonment, during  the  said  period. 

Males,  .       .       .  162 

Females,       ....  54 

Total,       .  216 

Table  IV. — State  as  to  Instruction  of  Criminal  Persons  in  Con- 
finement, during  the  said  period. 
On  admission  during  ike  said  period. 
1234        5        6        7B9  10 


2  ^1  1   e2    §^  21  scS  I  ^ 


Males.  44  93  77  214  87  34  79  12  212 
Females,    14      35    16      65      50      6        6      3  65 


Total,     58     128   93     279     137     40      85     15     277  ^ 

Improvement  during  the  said  period. 

11  12 

Have  improved  in 
Have  improved  in  reading  or  arithmetic,  or  other 

writing,  or  both,  in  prison.  branch  of  instruction. 

Males,  .  .  106  29 

Females,  .  ,  2 

Total,         .  108  29 

Table  V. — Number  and  Amount  of  Debts  of  Civil  Prisoners. 

1  2  3  4  5  6 

Above 

No.  owing  L.8,6s.8d.    L.20,  &    L.50,  &  L.100,& 
L.8,6s.8d.    &  under      under      under        under  Total 
&  under.       L.20.        L.50.      L.IOO.  L.500. 

Males,  1  6  1  2  1  ]| 

Females,  None. 

A  new  and  more  commodious  prison,  the  want  of  which  has 
been  long  felt,  is  nearly  finished,  at  the  north-west  corner  of  the 
town-green.  It  consists  of  three  floors,  each  having  six  cells  for 
criminal  prisoners,  well  ventilated,  and  heated  by  flues.  One  on 
each  flat  has  a  fire-place.  There  are  two  commodious  cells,  with 
fire-places,  for  civil  prisoners,  and  three  apartments  for  the  gaoler 
and  matron,  besides  kitchen,  bath-room,  &c.,  for  the  prison. 
There  are  three  corridors,  or  long  passages,  for  exercise.  The 
means  for  a  complete  classification  and  separation  of  prisoners  are 
afforded,  and  the  system,  it  is  intended,  will  be  put  in  force. 
The  site  contains  two  imperial  acres,  all  of  which  will  be  enclos- 
ed, and  part  of  it  will  be  appropriated  to  an  airing  court.  The 
new  prison  has  been  erected,  and,  like  the  old  since  1840,  will  be 


912 


FIFESHIRE. 


governed  under  the  regulations  of  the  n6w  Jail  Act.    It  has  cost 
about  L.2070,  assessed  upon  the  county  generally. 
Police  Cases. — List  of  Individuals  brought  before  the  Police 
Court,  from  1st  November  1841  till  1st  November  1842  and 
1843,  with  their* Offences,  and  amount  of  Fines  realized. 


Disorderly,  but 
not  drunk. 

Theft. 

Reset.  1 

breach  of 
Trust  and 
Embezzlement. 

Fraud  and 
Imposition. 

Drunk  and 
Di.sorderlv. 

Contraventions 
of  Police  Act. 

Assault.  1 

Malicious 
Mischief 

H 

o 
H 

L. 

s. 

D. 

1841-42, 

90 

60 

1 

51 

14 

73 

16 

84 

14 

357 

54 

18 

5 

1842-43, 

61 

45 

2 

13 

13 

155 

31 

80 

9 

409 

53 

17 

9 

From  this  list  it  appears  that  simple  disorderliness  and  theft 
have  been  on  the  decrease,  and  that  drunkenness  with  disorder- 
liness has  been  considerably  on  the  increase,  during  this  last  year. 

Fairs. — There  are  eight  public  fairs  held  throughout  the  year 
in  the  town  of  Dunfermline,  viz.  on  the  third  Tuesdays  of  Janu- 
ary, March,  April,  June,  July,  September,  October,  and  Novem- 
ber, for  the  sale  of  horses,  cattle,  &c. 

There  is  a  weekly  market  held  at  the  Tron  on  Friday,  for  the 
sale  of  butter,  cheese,  eggs,  &c. ;  and  a  weekly  corn-market  at 
the  Cross  on  Tuesday,  at  which  the  grain  is  disposed  of  by  sam- 
ple. 

Innsy  Alehouses,  S^c. — The  number  of  licensed  houses  for  sell- 
ing spirits,  ales,  &c.,  including  shops  in  which  groceries  are  also 
Bold,  were,  for  the  last  five  years,  as  follows  : 

1838-  39,  '.          .          .  141 

1839-  40,            .          .  .122 

1840-  41.  ...  142 

1841-  42,            .          .  .140 

1842-  43,  ...  140 

Puel — The  fuel  used  is  almost  entirely  coal,  and  is  procured 
in  abundance  and  of  good  quality  in  the  parish,  at  various  prices, 
of  which  a  full  account  has  been  given,  when  treating  of  the  col- 
lieries. There  is  little  or  no  peat  in  this  parish  or  vicinity,  and 
there  are  perhaps  few  trees  remaining  of  the  ancient  Forest  of 
Dunfermline,  in  which  Sir  William  Wallace  found  a  safe  retreat 
when  pursued  by  his  enemies. 


August  1844, 


PARISH  OF  CARNBEE. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  ANSTRUTHER  TAYLOR,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  Etymology,  ^-c— The  parish  of  Carnbee  seems  to  have 
borne  the  same  name  in  Roman  Catholic  times  as  at  present,  for 
mention  is  made  of  it  at  a  very  early  date  in  the  chartulary  of  the 
Abbey  of  Dunfermline,  and  it  remained  attached  to  that  reli- 
gious house  till  the  abolition  of  Popery.    A  portion  of  the  teinds 
is  still  paid  to  the  lordship  of  Dunfermline,  to  which,  on  its 
erection,  all  the  revenues  of  the  abbey  were  conveyed  by  a  grant 
from  the  Crown.    It  also  appears,  from  «  the  Bulk  of  the  Uni- 
versal Kirk,"  that  a  Mr  David  Wemyss  sat  as  member  of  As- 
sembly for  the  kirk  of  Carnbee  in  the  first  General  Assembly  after 
the  Reformation,  held  in  1563.    The  etymology  of  the  name  is 
given  in  the  former  Statistical  Account  as  being  derived  from  two 
Gaelic  words,  earn  and  bee,  the  first  signifying  birch,  and  the  se- 
cond hill ;  and  the  appearance  of  the  locality,  as  well  as  certain 
names  yet  existing,  accord  with  this  etymology. 

Extent  and  Boundaries.— The  parish  of  Carnbee  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Cameron,  Denino,  and  part  of  Crail;  on  the  west,  by 
Kilconquhar ;  on  the  south,  by  Abercrombie  and  St  Monans,  Pit- 
tenweem,  West  Anstruther,  and  Kilrenny;  andon  the  east,  by  Kil- 
renny  and  Crail.  Its  form  is  nearly  a  parallelogram,  measuring 
about  five  miles  in  length,  by  four  in  breadth.  The  southern  part 
of  the  parish  is  intersected  from  west  to  east  by  the  turnpike-road 
leading  from  Colinsburgh  by  Kellie  toll,  towards  Crail,  which  enters 
the  parish  at  Pitcorthie,  and  passes  out  of  it  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Anstruther  and  St  Andrews  turnpike-road,  at  Pitkeerie  wood,  be- 
ing a  distance  of  nearly  five  miles;  while  the  northern  part  of  it  is 
intersected  m  the  same  direction  by  the  turnpike-road  leading  from 
Cupar  to  Crail,  which  enters  the  parish  at  Lathockar  bridge,  and, 
passing  by  Lingo  and  Lochty,  leaves  it  about  half  a  mile  west- 


914 


FIFESHIUE. 


ward  of  the  point  where  this  road  crosses  the  Anstruther  and  St 
Andrews  turnpike,  at  Drumrack.  There  is  also  a  road  which 
stretches  from  Balcarres  Den,  (the  western  boundary  of  the  pa- 
rish,) eastward  through  the  middle  of  it,  to  the  before- named 
turnpike  at  Burnside.  These,  with  the  cross  roads  which  run 
from  south  to  north  intersecting  them,  extend  to  about  21  miles; 
making  about  9  miles  of  turnpike,  6  miles  of  statute  labour,  and 
6  miles  of  roads  not  upon  the  turnpike  or  statute  labour  lists. 

Topographical  Appearances. — There  is  a  very  marked  difference 
between  the  south  and  north  sides  of  the  parish,  which  is  inter- 
sected for  almost  its  whole  length,  from  east  to  west,  by  a  ridge 
of  high  land,  dividing  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  This  ridge 
at  several  places,  such  as  Carnbee  Law,  Kellie  Law,  Baldutho 
Craig,  and  Gunner  Law,  rises  into  hills,  varying  from  500  to  800 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  commands  a  most  extensive 
and  beautiful  view  of  the  whole  Firth  of  Forth,  the  Lothians,  and 
greater  part  of  the  coast  of  Fife.  Kellie  Law  is  the  highest  point 
of  this  ridge,  being  about  810  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
three  miles  distant  from  it.  From  its  summit  the  view  extends 
northward,  comprehending  St  Andrews  Bay,  the  Firth  of  Tay, 
vind  the  greater  part  of  the  county  of  Angus,  with  the  Grampians 
in  the  distance.  It  was  one  of  the  stations  chosen  by  Captain 
Colby,  when  making  the  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  Scotland  ;  and 
he  and  his  party  of  Engineers  were  encamped  upon  it  for  the  six 
or  eight  weeks  spent  in  taking  their  observations. 

Soil  and  Climate. — The  southern  division  of  the  parish,  stretch- 
ing from  east  to  west,  through  its  whole  length,  consists  chiefly  of 
a  stiff  clay  soil  upon  a  closely  retentive  subsoil,  with  an  excellent 
exposure,  and  in  a  very  high  state  of  cultivation.  The  northern 
division  is  inferior  as  to  soil,  and  still  more  so  as  to  chmate, — the 
elevation  of  a  considerable  part  of  it  being  nearly  the  same  with 
the  ridge  already  spoken  of.  At  certain  places,  indeed,  such  as 
parts  of  Cassingray,  Lingo,  and  Craigloon,  the  soil  is  excellent ; 
but  the  elevation  being  considerable,  the  whole  range  is  better 
adapted  for  pasturage  than  corn,  and  is  in  general  so  laid  out. 

Hydrography. — The  parish  is  well  supplied  with  springs  of  ex- 
cellent water,  and  it  is  intersected  by  several  small  streams;  those 
on  the  south  side  of  the  ridge  finding  their  way  by  different  courses 
into  the  Dreil,  which  runs  into  the  sea  at  West  Anstruther,  while 
those  on  the  north  side  join  the  Kenly,  which  runs  eastward  by 
Denino,  and  falls  into  St  Andrews  Bay. 


CARNBEE.  915 


Geology  and  Mineralogy. — The  geological  construction  of  the 
parish  and  the  character  of  the  minerals  correspond  with  the  di- 
vision above  referred  to, — sandstone  prevailing  in  the  south,  and 
whinstone  in  the  north.    Coal  is  found  at  several  places,  and  at 
present  there  are  two  collieries, — one  at  Kellie,  and  another  at 
Cassingray.    The  Kellie  consists  of  two  main  seams  of  cherry 
coal,  distinguished  among  the  workmen  as  the  back  and  the  fore, 
—the  one  being  7  feet  thick,  and  the  other  5  feet.    The  metals 
cut  through  in  the  engine  pit  are,  3  feet  of  clay,  9  feet  of  faiks, 
12  feet  of  till  mixed  with  faiks,  12  feet  of  gray  faiks,  6  feet  of 
white  blaise  or  till,  12  feet  of  freestone  pavement,  2^  feet  of  hard 
white  sandstone,  6  feet  of  till  with  gray  faiks,  6  feet  of  freestone, 
5  feet  of  soft  till  or  blaise,  1^  feet  of  hard  stone  mixed  with  lime, 
5  feet  of  gray  faiks,  6i  feet  of  pelt,  2^  feet  of  hard  sandstone 
mixed  with  whinstone,  18^  feet  of  freestone  pavement,  6^  feet  of 
gray  faiks,  3  feet  of  soft  blue  till,  2^  feet  of  limestone  roof  above 
the  coal,  5  feet  of  cherry  coal.    The  price  of  this  coal  at  the  pit 
is  Is.  per  load  of  four  cwt.    It  is  found  at  21  fathoms,  with  a  dip 
of  5  to  1  west  by  north.    From  15  to  20  men  are  employed  at  the 
works. 

The  Cassingray  coal  consists  of  6  regular  seams,  and  1  seam 
found  occasionally  2  to  3  feet  thick  when  it  holds,  and  of  excel- 
lent quality.    The  first  regular  seam  is  the  marl  coal,  dipping  to 
the  south,  3  feet  thick,  and  very  near  the  surface.    The  second 
is  a  splint  coal,  about  14  inches  thick,  and  found  at  from  7  to  8 
fathoms.    The  third  is  also  a  splint  coal,  3  feet  10  inches  thick, 
of  excellent  quality,  and  found  at  38  fathoms.    The  fourth  is  si- 
milar in  quality,  and  3^  feet  thick.    The  fifth  is  what  is  called 
the  scarrot  loft,  and  almost  close  to  the  black  coal.    The  sixth, 
agam,  is  a  spHnt  coal,  4  fathoms  below  the  scarrot  loft,  18  inches 
thick,  and  of  the  best  quality.    The  dip  of  all  these  seams  is  as 
1  in  6,  but  m  different  directions,— the  coal  on  the  north  side  of 
Cassingray  dipping  to  the  north-west,  and  that  on  the  south  dip- 
pmg  due  south,  while  it  is  to  be  observed  that  the  crops  of  both 
approach  very  near  to  each  other,  not  far  from  the  place  where 
the  pigeon  house  now  stands.    The  metals  cut  throuo-h  in  the 
engine  pit  are  2  fathoms  of  clay,  15  fathoms  of  sandstone,  5  fa- 
thoms 2  feet  of  till  or  shale,  22  inches  of  limestone,  11  fathoms 
of  sandstone,  4  feet  of  till,  15  inches  of  a  black  stone  called  pelt, 
and  7  inches  of  coarse  parrot  above  the  coal.    The  price  of  this 
coal  at  the  pit  is  Is.  2d.  per  load  of  four  cwt.    There  are 38  col- 


916 


FIFESHIRE. 


Hers,  3  labourers,  and  2  engine-men  employed  at  the  work,  which 
has  recently  been  let  to  an  enterprising  tenant. 

Limestone  of  good  quality  is  found  in  various  places,  and  has 
been  successfully  wrought  at  Over  Kellie,  Baldutho,  and  Gibliston. 

There  are  several  excellent  freestone  quarries,  one  of  them  yield- 
ing good  pavement.  All  these  freestone  quarries  lie  in  the  southern 
section  of  the  parish, — :the  ridge  formerly  spoken  of  as  running 
through  the  heart  of  the  parish,  consisting  almost  entirely  of  whin- 
stone,  and,  with  some  few  exceptions,  such  as  at  Cassingray,  the 
whole  northern  section  may  be  referred  to  the  same  formation. 

II. —  Civil  History. 

Carnbee  originally  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Dunfermline,  and, 
when  it  was  formed  into  a  temporal  lordship,  the  patronage  went 
along  with  the  teinds  and  other  church  property.  The  name  of 
Melville,  Laird  of  Carnbee,  appears  in  public  documents  as  early 
as  1466, — the  property  having  been  acquired  by  that  family  in  the 
reign  of  Robert  the  Bruce,  and  remaining  in  it  till  it  was  sold  by 
Sir  James  Melville  in  1 598.  One  of  them  was  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Flodden  field,  and  honourable  mention  is  made  of  them 
both  before  and  after  the  Reformation.  Subsequently  Sir  James 
Galloway,  created  Lord  Dunkeld  by  Charles  II.,  held  the  lands 
and  the  patronage.  Carnbee  Place  (as  the  old  mansion-house 
was  called,  and  which  was  only  taken  down  in  1813),  was  long  the 
residence  of  the  family  of  Lord  Dunkeld,  whose  names  are  often 
mentioned  in  the  parish  records.  The  third  and  last  Lord  Dun- 
keld joined  Viscount  Dundee  at  the  battle  of  Killiecrankie,  after 
which  he  was  attainted,  and  ^ied  in  the  French  service.  The  pa- 
tronage has  since  passed  into  the  family  of  Kellie,  and  is  now, 
along  with  the  lands,  vested  in  that  of  Balcaskie. 

Eminent  Men. — The  following  is  a  list  of  distinguished  persons 
connected  with  the  parish  :  Sir  Thomas  Erskine,  first  Earl  of 
Kellie,  who  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in  suppressing  the  Gowrie 
conspiracy  ;  Dr  George  Sibbald  of  Gibliston,  uncle  of  Sir  Robert 
Sibbald,  the  historian  of  Fife,  and  a  very  celebrated  physician  ; 
Sir  William  Bruce,  the  celebrated  architect ;  Thomas  the  sixth, 
or  more  generally  known  as  the  musical  Earl  of  Kellie ;  the  eccen- 
tric Hugo  Arnot  of  Balcormo,  the  author  of  "  State  Trials,"  an 
«'  Essay  upon  Nothing,"  and  other  works ;  Archibald  Constable, 
the  celebrated  bookseller ;  and  if  talent  and  success  in  mercantile 
affairs,  joined  to  personal  worth  and  a  long  series  of  benefits  con- 
ferred upon  the  parish,  should  place  any  one  in  the  list  of  distin- 
guished persons  who  have  been  connected  with  it,  may  be  men- 


CARNBEK. 


917 


tioned  Joseph  Pitcaini,  Esq.,  son  of  the  Rev.  Joseph .  Pitcairn, 
minister  of  Carnbee,  who,  for  twenty-five  years,  sent  an  annual  do- 
nation of  L.15,  and,  at  his  death  in  June  last,  bequeathed  the  sum 
of  1000  dollars  to  the  kirk-session  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  of 
his  native  parish. 

Land-oicners^  S^c, — The  rent  for  which  the  parish  was  assessed 
in  1815  was  L.  11,502.  And  the  following  is  a  list  of  the  present 
landed  proprietors,  with  the  valued  rent  of  their  estates. 

James  Maitland  Hog,  Esq.  of  Kellie,          .  .  L.  2042  16  6 

Sir  Ralph  A.  Anstruther  of  Balcaskie,  Carnbee,  &c.  1783  15  I 

George  Simson,  Esq.  of  Pitcortliie,  &c.  .  1327  0  0 

Sir  Henry  Bethune  of  Belliston  and  Cassingray,  960  7  2 

Lord  WUliara  R.  K.  Douglas  of  BalhouiBe,  Falsirle,  &c.  806  0  0 

Robert  G.  Smyth,  Esq.  of  Gibliston,            .  .  702  8  10 

Lieutenant- Colonel  John  Briggs  of  Over  Carnbee,  .  427  1  3 

Lieutenant- General  Graham  Stirling  of  Balmouth,  .  377  6  3 

Hugo  Arnot,  Esq.  of  Balcormo,        .           .  .  369  0  0 

Robert  Briggs,  Esq.  of  Gordonshall,             .  .  325  0  0 

John  Dalyell,  Esq.  of  Lingo,            .           .  .  295  6  8 

The  Right  Hon.  Lord  Mar  of  Kellie  Castle,  .  262  6  8 

Joseph  Tosh,  Esq.  of  Mortonshall  and  Kellieside,  .  173  3  4 

Mrs  Mouatof  Craigloon,       .          .           .  .  164  0  0 

New  College  of  St  Andrews  for  Langside,  .  86  0  0 

Schoolmaster  of  Carnbee,               .          .  .  36  0  0 


L.  10,202    8  5 

III.^ — Population. 

The  population  of  Carnbee  has  decreased  considerably.  In 
1752  it  was  1290.  At  the  date  of  the  last  Statistical  Account  it 
was  1041  ;  in  1811,  1098;  in  1821,  1048;  in  1831,  1079;  and 
in  1841,  1043.  The  decrease  since  1752  is  to  be  ascribed  to  the 
change  in  the  system  of  farming. 

The  average  number  of  communicants  is  375  ;  of  baptisms,  28  ; 
of  marriages,  5  ;  and  of  deaths,  13. 

IV. — Industry. 
The  parish  is  strictly  agricultural.  It  is  at  present  divided  into 
32  farms,  the  largest  of  which  is  390  Scots  acres,  and  the  smallest 
about  40,  the  average  being  about  150.  The  system  of  manage- 
ment is  that  generally  pursued  on  the  stiff  clay  lands  of  this  part 
of  Fife,  as  already  described  in  the  reports  of  parishes  similarly 
situated,  and  it  is  therefore  unnecessary  to  give  a  detailed  account 
of  it.  The  same  remark  will  apply  to  the  produce,  rates  of  wages, 
and  the  general  e.xpense  of  farm  operations.  The  rent  ranges 
from  L.  1,  8s.  to  L.  3,  2s.  per  Scotch  acre.  Furrow-draining  is 
going  on  vigorously,  and  cannot  fail  to  effect  a  most  decided  im- 
provement on  a  soil  such  as  that  of  which  the  parish  chiefly  con- 
sists.   Almost  the  whole  of  it  has  been  limed. 


918 


FIFESHIRE. 


V. — Parochial  Economv. 

The  east  end  of  the  parish  is  within  two  miles  of  Anstruther,  a 
sea-port,  corn-market,  and  post-town.  Pittenweem,  also  a  sea- 
port and  post-town,  is  within  two  and  a-half  miles  of  the  church  ; 
and  Colinsburgh,  a  corn-market  and  post-town,  is  within  a  mile  of 
the  west  side  of  the  parish.  The  church  and  manse  are  about 
eight  miles  distant  from  St  Andrews.  The  produce  is  shipped 
chiefly  at  Anstruther,  but  also  at  Pittenweem  and  Elie.  There 
are  two  corn  mills  and  one  lint  mill  in  the  parish. 

The  church  is  not  centrical,  being  near  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  parish.  It  was  built  in  1793,  and  is  large  and  commodious, 
containing  accommodation  for  about  500.  The  chapel  at  Largo 
Ward  affords  accommodation  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  north-west 
part  of  the  parish. 

The  manse  and  offices  were  built  in  1820,  and  are  in  all  re- 
spects substantial  and  commodious.  The  glebe  is  about  15  Scots 
acres.  It  is  valued  at  L.  30  per  annum.  The  stipend  is  16  chal- 
ders,  with  L.  8,  6s.  8d.  for  communion  elements.  The  teinds  of 
the  parish  amount  to  37  chalders. 

There  has  not  hitherto  been  any  dissenting  meeting-house  in 
the  parish,  the  few  Dissenters  who  reside  within  the  bounds  at- 
tending the  Relief  chapel  at  Pittenweem,  or  the  Burgher  chapel 
at  Largo  Ward.  A  Free  Church  meeting-house  is  at  present 
erecting  at  Arncroach,  but  it  would  be  premature  to  pass  any  opi- 
nion as  to  the  support  which  it  will  receive  from  the  parishioners. 

It  has  already  been  stated,  that  Mr  David  Wemyss  represented 
the  kirk  of  Carnbee  in  the  first  General  Assembly.  In  the  same 
Assembly  he  is  also  mentioned  among  such  as  were  thought  best 
qualified  for  the  preaching  of  the  word,  and  ministering  of  the 
sacraments  at  St  Andrews,  and  he  was  afterwards  settled  there. 
List  of  Ministers  of  Carnbee  since  the  Reformation  : 


Mr  David  Spens, 
Mr  Thomas  Wood, 
Mr  William  Laing, 
Mr  Andrew  Hunter, 
Mr  David  Mernes, 
Mr  John  Mernes, 
Mr  Henry  Rymore, 
Mr  Andrew  Bruce, 
Mr  James  Garden, 


from  1367  to  1575 
...  1576  to  1578 
...  1579  to  1583 
1582  to  158- 
1589  to  1638 
1639  to  1642 
1644  to  166- 
1664  to  1677 
1678  to  1681 


Mr  John  Falconer,  from  1683  to  1689 


Mr  Alexander  Lundie,,..   1681  to  1683 


Mr  Henry  Rymore, 
Mr  R.  Fairweather,  ... 
Mr  Hugh  Kemp, 
Mr  Wm.  Dalgliesh,  ... 
Mr  Joseph  Pitcairn,  ... 
.  Mr  Alexander  Brodie,.. 
Mr  Joseph  Taylor,  ... 
Mr  Anstruther  Taylor, 


1690  to  1694 
1693  to  1701 
1704  to  1718 
1719  to  1759 
1742  to  1780 
1781  to  1804 
1805  to  1815 
1816" 


•  The  above  list  I  received  from  the  Rev.  H.  Scott  of  West  Anstruther,  who  with 
great  labour  has  made  up  similar  lists  for  most  of  the  parishes  in  Scotland.  His  col- 
lection, if  completed  and  printed,  would  form  a  curious  document,  and  is  worthy  of  the 
attention  of  some  of  our  book  societies. 


CARNBEE. 


919 


Education. — There  is  one  parochial,  one  private,  and  one  fe- 
male school.  The  salary  of  the  parochial  teacher  is  the  maxi- 
mum, with  house  and  garden,  and,  in  addition  to  this,  he  has  a 
portion  of  land  at  Over  Kellie,  yielding  a  rent  of  L.20.  The 
number  of  scholars  may  be  stated  at  70.  The  teacher  of  the  fe- 
male school  has  a  salary  of  L.IO,  and  a  free  house  and  school 
room,  together  with  the  school  fees.  The  number  of  scholars, 
35.  The  teacher  of  the  private  school  depends  altogether  upon 
the  school  fees,  which  are  inadequate  for  his  support.  There  is 
also  a  Sabbath  school. 

Registers. — The  earhest  of  the  registers  extant  is  of  date  1650. 
They  have  been  well  kept.  - 

Poor's  Funds. — The  only  property  vested  in  the  kirk-session 
for  the  relief  of  the  poor  is  L.320,  L.lOO  of  which  was  bequeathed 
to  them  by  the  Rev.  Mr  Thomson.  A  legacy  of  1000  dollars 
has,  within  the  last  few  months,  been  left  to  them  by  the  late 
Joseph  Pitcairn,  Esq.  of  New  York,  for  the  same  purpose.  The 
interest  of  the  above  sum,  the  collections  at  the  church  doors, 
parish  dues,  and  a  voluntary  contribution  from  the  heritors,  has 
hitherto  been  sufficient  to  relieve  the  wants  of  the  ordinary  and 
occasional  poor,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  statement  : 

Statement  of  Receipts  and  Expenditure  on  an  average  of  seven 

years. 

By  collections  at  the  church  doors,    .  .  .       L.17  17  2 

...  voluntary  contribution  by  the  heritors,     .  .  35    0  0 

...  interest  of  money,  .  .  .  12  16  0 

...  mortcloth  dues,  ,  .  .  1  19  8 


L.67  12  10 

In  addition  to  this  must  be  stated  a  donation  yearly  received  from  Mr  >  ,  -  „ 

Pitcairn,                  .                     .                     .                     _         ^  15  0  0 

And  proceeds  of  a  clothing  club,  of  which  the  poor  receive  the  full  benefit,  13  0  0 

L.95  12  10 

To  amount  of  allowances  to  14  ordinary  poor,  .       L.48    8  11 

extra  allowances  to  do.  and  to  13  occasional  )     qn    7  ft 
poor,  in  money,  meal,  clothes,  and  coals,  .  |     oU    7  6 

To  amount  of  session  clerk  and  other  salaries,  .  13    6  2 

  92    2  7 


L.3  10  3 


The  highest  allowance  is  Is.  2d.  per  month,  and  the  lowest  4d. 
—the  allowance  being  paid  on  the  first  Monday  of  the  month. 

In  conclusion,  it  may  be  observed  that  the  progress  of  agricul- 
tural improvement  has  been  very  great  since  the  date  of  the  last 
Statistical  Account.    Judging  from  the  details  there  given,  the 


920 


FIFESHIUE. 


produce  of  all  kinds  of  corn  must  be  at  least  four  times  greater, 
while  the  number  of  cattle  reared  and  fattened  is  so  much  greater 
as  scarcely  to  admit  of  a  comparison.  A  great  change  has  also 
taken  place  in  the  houses  of  all  classes  within  the  bounds  of  the 
parish,  and  perhaps  a  still  greater  in  the  farrn-steadings.  These 
are  all  of  the  best  description,  two  of  them  having  thrashing-mills 
driven  by  steam,  six  by  water,  and  twenty-three  by  horses. 

December  I844» 


PARISH  OF  FALKLAND. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  CUPAR,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  A.  WILSON,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  present  parish  of  Falkland  embraces  what  was 
formerly  Kilgour  and  Falkland.  The  former  name,  like  many 
in  the  neighbourhood,  is  of  Celtic  origin  :  Ceil-gor,  "  the  Plea- 
sant Church  ;"  the  Lomond,*  or  Lois-monadh,  "  the  Hill  Fort- 
ress." The  name  Falkland,  however,  or  Faukland,  as  it  often 
occurs  in  old  charters,  is  considered  of  Gothic  or  Teutonic  ori- 
gin, from  Falk,  "  a  species  of  hawk,"  referring  to  the  once  fa- 
vourite amusement  of  hawking.  As  a  royal  residence,  indeed, 
Falkland  sefems  to  have  been  chiefly  chosen  with  a  view  to  the 
pleasures  of  the  chase.  Even  after  the  union  of  the  Crown  of 
Scotland  with  that  of  England,  both  King  James  I.  and  Charles  I. 
enjoyed  that  pastime  in  the  wood  or  park  of  Falkland.  This  name, 
at  first  successively  given  to  the  manor,  castle,  and  palace  is  now 
extended  to  the  town  and  parish. 

Boundaries  and  Extent. — The  parish  of  Falkland  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Auchtermuchty ;  on  the  east,  by  Kettle  and 
Markinch ;  on  the  south,  by  Leslie ;  and  on  the  west,  by  Port- 

*  The  Lomond,  according  to  Jamieson,  is  derived  from  the  Welsh  dialect  of  the 
Celtic,  from  Llo,  "  what  is  raised  or  ejected,"  and  mient,  "  a  mound  or  mount." 
Falkland,  as  it  stands  in  the  charter  of  Malcolm  IV.,  is  Falcclden^  which  might  also 
be  referred  to  the  Celtic,  as  if  Fal-aighc-lcana,  "  the  Chieftain  or  King's  Hind- 
m.eadow." 


I 


FALKLAND.  921 

moak  and  Stratbmiglo.  The  greatest  length  of  the  parish  is 
about  6  miles,  and  the  greatest  breadth  4. 

Geologij. — This  forms  an  extremely  interesting  portion  of  the 
statistics  of  the  parish.  The  structure  of  the  Lomonds  exhibits, 
in  a  condensed  outline,  the  geognosy  of  the  entire  district ;  while 
their  isolated  and  elevated  position  renders  the  various  strata  a 
subject  of  comparatively  easy  investigation.  The  builder,  and 
agriculturist,  and  miner  have  been  long  acquainted  with  their  rich 
mineral  stores  ;  nor  did  the  cupidity  of  the  miner,  in  a  former  age, 
want  materials  on  which  to  exert  itself.  A  very  brief  sketch  can 
only  here  be  given. 

The  old  red  sandstone  skirts  the  northern  boundary  of  the  pa- 
rish, and  constitutes  the  lowest  of  the  sedimentary  deposits.  The 
best  sections  of  this  rock  are  seen  near  to  Strathmiglo,  where  it  is 
of  great  thickness,  and  is  much  prized  for  building  material. 
Some  of  the  beds  are  extremely  fine  and  close-grained ;  others 
assume  a  brecciated  or  conglomerated  character.  It  abounds  in 
organic  remains,  chiefly  belonging  to  the  genus  Holoptychius. 
There  are  also  innumerable  spherical  spots,  of  a  whitish  colour, 
diffused  throughout  the  mass.  This  rock  dips  generally  to  the 
south-east,  at  an  angle  of  10°, — the  outcrop  of  the  beds  rising  to- 
wards the  Ochils. 

Resting  upon  the  old  red,  beds  of  yelloiu  sandstone  next  occur, 
which  are  likewise  of  great  thickness,  and  contain  organic  remains 
similar  to  the  former.  The  two  deposits  are  conformable  in  their 
dip  and  inclination.  On  the  farm  of  Lappa,  their  junction  is  ex- 
posed in  a  rivulet  which  issues  from  Glenvale, — a  deep  ravine  in- 
tersecting the  Lomond  ridge  towards  the  western  extremity  of  the 
parish.  The  lower  beds  are  of  various  colours, —  red,  brown,  blue, 
white,  and  yellow  alternating  with  each  other ;  and  the  whole  in- 
termixed with  thin  bands  of  clay,  containing  nodules  of  limestone. 
The  yellow  sandstone,  as  well  as  the  old  red  on  which  it  rests, 
traverses  the  valley  of  Stratheden,  passes  through  the  shires  of 
Kinross  and  Clackmannan,  and  has  lately  become  the  subject  of 
much  geological  interest  and  speculation.  Next  to  Dura  Den, 
towards  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  county,  the  parish  of  Falk- 
land contains  some  of  its  finest  sections. 

The  two  rocks  now  described  constitute  the  base  of  the  Lomond 
ridge.  The  superincumbent  materials  all  belong  to  the  under 
coal  formation,  and  consist  of  the  usual  beds  of  sandstone,  shale, 
ironstone,  coal,  and  limestone.    The  lower  beds  of  sandstone  are 


922 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  a  whitish  colour,  of  a  fine  hard  texture,  and  are  from  500  to 
600  feet  thick.    There  are  three  thin  beds  of  coal,  which  are 
little  sought  after,  of  inferior  quality,  and  do  not  pay  the  expense 
of  working.    They  vary  from  a  few  inches  to  about  a  foot  and  a 
half  in  thickness.    The  limestone  consists  of"two  main  beds  about 
ten  feet  thick,  is  highly  crystalline  in  its  structure,  and  of  various 
shades  of  grayish-white.    The  blue,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  work- 
men, is  very  hard,  is  blasted  with  gunpowder,  and  abounds,  as  well 
as  the  lime,  in  corals,  madrepores,  encrinites,  and  shells.  The 
limestone  has  a  slight  inclination  to  the  south-east,  and  dips  under 
the  western  peak,  which  rises  above  it  to  the  height  of  500  feet. 
The  peak  consists  of  amygdaloidal  greenstone,  passing  towards 
the  summit  into  a  grayish-black  basalt ;  and  underneath  the  lime- 
stone there  is  a  dark  crystalline  greenstone,  probably  100  feet 
thick,  which  splits  up  into  tabular  masses,  and  presents  a  bold 
mural  clilf  towards  the  northern  face  of  the  hill.    The  table-land 
which  stretches  to  the  East  Lomond  exhibits,  in  various  places,  the 
protrusion  of  the  ignigenous  rock  through  the  sedimentary  strata, 
which  are,  in  consequence,  a  good  deal  altered  and  disturbed. 
The  limestone  passes  round  the  cone  of  the  hill  at  an  elevation 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  of  nearly  1200  feet.    This  is  the  high- 
est point  where  fossil  organic  remains  appear  in  Fifeshire;  there 
is  no  soil  or  covering  upon  the  limestone  in  many  places ;  and  yet 
on  the  upper  surface  of  a  bed  of  blae,  of  a  few  inches  thick,  shells 
are  found  of  forms  the  most  perfect  and  beautiful,  uninjured,  and 
almost  uninfluenced  by  their  long  exposure  to  atmospheric  agen- 
cies.   The  limestone  trains  round  the  south-eastern  acclivity,  and, 
after  several  shifts,  crops  out  near  Leslie  ;  whence  we  lose  all 
trace  of  it,  until  it  again  emerges  near  the  bottom  of  the  valley  at 
Fothar. 

Boulders  of  greenstone,  granite,  and  gneiss,  (and  other  primi- 
tive rocks,)  are  strewed  over  the  high  mainland,  as  well  as  sloping 
sides  of  the  Lomond  ridge.  Some  of  them  are  of  great  dimen- 
sions, and  upwards  of  twenty  tons  weight.  The  greenstone  boul- 
ders are  not  much  rounded,  and  have  obviously  not  been  trans- 
ported far  from  their  parent  mass. 

A  vein  of  galena  occurs  on  the  south  side  of  the  Easter  Lomond. 
It  was  discovered  and  wrought  about  the  year  1783,  and  is  de- 
scribed in  the  notices  of  the  period  as  rich  in  silver  ore.  But  it 
has  little  claim,  we  believe,  to  be  regarded  as  argentifcrovs.  Its 
line  of  bearing  is  nearly  north-east  by  south-west.    It  intersects 

3 


FALKLAND.  923 

the  limestone  noticed  above,  and  penetrates  the  hill  at  the  farm- 
house of  Hanging  Myre.  The  mine  seems  to  have  been  carried 
'  to  a  considerable  extent ;  but  no  records  appear  to  have  been  kept 
or  can  now  be  found  of  the  results  of  the  operations.  Two  similar 
veins  occur  in  the  county,  in  the  parishes  of  Kembach  and  Inver- 
keithing,  situated  among  the  same  series  of  rocks,  and  having  the 
same  general  line  of  bearing.  The  ore  in  all  of  them  is  partly 
massive,  and  partly  in  very  regular  hexahedral  crystals. 

Zoology  and  Botany. — The  wood  of  Falkland,  which  was  once 
the  resort  of  the  fallow  deer  [Cervus  dama)^  and  the  hunting-place 
of  kings,  has  long  ago  had  no  other  existence  than  in  the  archives 
of  the  past.  This  wood,  vphich  chiefly  consisted  of  oak,  was,  even 
during  the  regency  of  the  Queen- Mother  of  the  unfortunate  Mary, 
in  a  state  of  decay  ;*  and,  about  a  century  after,  Cromwell  cut 
down  of  it  what  suited  his  purpose  for  erecting  a  citadel  at  Perth. 
The  fallow  deer,  as  well  as  the  ancient  wood  and  forest,  have  dis- 
appeared; and  the  Lomondsare  now  only  ranged  by  that  elegant 
native  species,  the  roebuck  {Cervus  capriolus.)  Five  of  this  species 
were  killed  this  season  on  the  Lomond  hills. 

Towards  the  summit  of  the  East  Lomond,  which  rises  1466 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  Vaccinmm  Vitis  Idcea  (red 
whortleberry)  grows  plentifully,  and  bears  ripe  scarlet  fruit  abun- 
dantly. On  the  ruins  of  the  palace,  situated  at  the  northern  base 
of  this  hill,  the  Cheiranthus  ckeh-i  (wall-flower)  grows  as  in  a  na- 
tive climate ;  and  the  abundance  with  which  it  covers  the  rocky 
shores  near  Burntisland,  may  give  it  the  undisputed  claim  of  being 
here  completely  naturalized,  if  not  native. 

IL — Civil  History. 
Falkland  has  obtained  great  celebrity,  from  having  been  in 
former  times  one  of  the  favourite  residences  of  the  Scottish  mo- 
narchs.    The  first  mention  made  of  it  in  history,  is  in  the  book 
of  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews.    Sibbald,  quoting  from  this  book> 
states,  that  in  the  fifth  year  of  the  reign  of  David  I.,  Con^tantine, 
Earl  of  Fife,  and  Macbeth,  Thane  of  Falkland,  gathered  toge- 
ther an  army  to  prevent  Robert  de  Burgoner  from  forcing  the 
Culdees  of  St  Andrews  and  Lochleven  to  give  him  the  half  of  the 
lands  of  Kirkness,  in  which  they  succeeded. 

*  In  an  act  of  Scott.  Pari.  a.  d.  1553,  the  following  finding  occurs  :  "  It  was  fundia 

bo  ane  assysc,  that  the  said  uiod  of  Falkland,  for  the  maist  jmlri  t/inirof,  mas  anld, 
failzeil,  and  dccnijit,  and  meil  to  he  cultit  da-vne  for  the  comoun  Weill  of  the  realmc,, 
and  to  be  parkit,  hanit,  and  keepit  of  new  for  policie  thairof." 


924 


FIFESHIRE. 


Falkland  afterwards  became  the  property  of  the  Crown  ;  but, 
in  the  time  of  Malcolm  IV.,  it  fell  into  the  possession  of  Duncan, 
the  sixth  Earl  of  Fife.    Duncan  married  Ada,  Malcolm's  niece, 
and  Falkland  formed  a  part  of  her  marriage  dowry.    It  remained 
in  the  possession  of  this  powerful  family  until  the  year  J 371,  when 
it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Robert  Stewart,  Earl  of  Monteith,  af- 
terwards Duke  of  Albany  and  Regent  of  Scotland.    The  Castle 
or  Tower  of  Falkland  is  mentioned  in  an  indenture  between  Iso- 
bel,  Countess  of  Fife,  and  this  celebrated  statesman,  whom  she 
acknowledg:es  as  her  heir.    The  said  Earl,  it  is  said,  ««  shall  have 
in  his  keeping  the  Castle  of  Falkland,  with  the  forest  of  it,  and  a 
constable  shall  be  placed  there  by  him  as  he  pleaseth,  and  the 
said  Countess  may  stay  within  the  tower  when  she  pleaseth,  and 
the  whole  village  of  Falkland,  over  against  the  said  tower,  shall 
be  set  in  tack." 

"  Falkland,"  says  Dr  Jamieson,  "  had  formerly  a  designation 
which,  as  far  as  I  have  observed,  occurs  in  no  other  instance. 
Speaking  of  the  forfeiture  of  the  Earl  of  Fife,  Sibbald  says,  '  It 
was  before  that  called  the  Castle  or  Mar  of  Falkland,  and  was 
one  of  the  seats  of  the  Macduffs.'  1  have  met  with  no  word  that 
seems  to  have  any  probable  affinity,  unless  we  should  view  it  as 
softened  in  pronunciation  from  "^'^elsh,  magwyr,  '  what  is  raised 
up,  a  structure,  a  wall,  a  building,  a  house.' "  * 

Falkland  first  became  the  residence  of  the  Court  during  the 
regency  of  Albany.  Robert  III.,  a  feeble  monarch,  entrusted 
him  with  the  entire  administration  of  the  kingdom,  and  hence 
manerium  nostrum  de  Fatvklancl,  as  he  termed  it,  became  virtually 
the  seat  of  Government.f  But  when  the  estates  of  Murdoch, 
the  second  Duke,  were  forfeited  in  1424,  Falkland  reverted  fo 
the  Crown. 

While  the  old  Castle  or  Mar  of  Falkland  belonged  to  Albany, 
it  became  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  painful  tragedies  J  in  the 
history  of  Scotland.  David,  Duke  of  Rothesay,  eldest  son  of 
Robert  III.,  and  heir  apparent  to  the  Throne,  was  thrown  into 
one  of  its  dungeons  by  his  uncle,  the  Duke  of  Albany,  where  he 
was  starved  to  death  in  1402.  The  circumstances  connected 
with  this  event,  so  characteristic  of  the  cruel  and  barbarous  man- 

*  Brown's  Views  of  the  Royal  Palaces  of  Scotland,  page  30. 

f  Ten  different  charters  yet  remain,  which  are  dated  Manerium  tiostri  dc  Faiilk- 
laiidy  or  simply  Falkland,  by  Albany  while  Gubcnidlor  or  Regent. 

t  In  the  Fair  Maid  of  Terth,  Sir  Walter  Scott  has  lent  to  this  historical  event  aU 
the  embellishments  of  poetry  and  romance. 


I'ALICLAND. 


925 


ners  of  the  times,  are  differently  related  by  the  Scottish  historians, 
and  have  led  to  much  discussion ;  but  the  result  of  recent  inves- 
tigations has  confirmed  the  popular  account.*    The  Regent  was 
jealous  of  the  talents  of  the  young  Prince.    He  beheld  in  him  a 
dangerous  rival,  whose  capacity  for  affairs  and  energetic  character 
might  prove  fatal  to  his  own  power.    These  fears  appear  to  have 
been  well  founded,  for  Rothesay,  while  yet  a  very  young  man, 
supfilanted  his  uncle  in  the  regency.    The  ambitious  mind  of 
Albany  could  not  submit  patiently  to  this  humiliation,  and  the 
dissolute  conduct  of  the  unfortunate  Prince  soon  allowed  him  an 
opportunity  of  gratifying  his  revenge.    Rothesay  was  of  a  volup- 
tuous disposition  ;  he  seems  also  to  have  been  inconstant  in  his 
attachments,  so  that  he  gave  just  cause  of  offence  to  several  fa- 
milies of  rank,  and  created  formidable  enemies  to  himself  among 
the  nobility.    These  individuals  supported  Albany  in  his  machi- 
nations against  the  Prince.    The  weak  monarch,  Robert  III., 
was  made  to  believe  that  the  vicious  excesses  of  his  son  were  ex- 
citing popular  discontent,  and  that  it  was  expedient  that  he  should 
be  placed  under  temporary  restraint.    Rothesay  was  indignant  at 
this  insulting  proposal,  and  attempted  to  make  himself  master  of 
the  Castle  of  St  Andrews,  and  in  that  citadel  defy  his  enemies. 
But  in  passing  through  Fife  he  was  arrested  by  Lindsay  of  Rossy 
and  a  traitor  of  the  name  of  Ramorgny,  friends  of  Albany,  by 
whom  he  was  carried  first  to  St  Andrews  and  afterwards  to  Falk- 
land.   Here  he  was  exposed  to  the  most  barbarous  treatment. 
He  was  thrown  into  a  miserable  dungeon,  under  the  charge  of 
two  ruffians,  by  whom  he  was  starved  to  death.    His  life,  how- 
ever, was  preserved  for  a  few  days  by  means  so  affecting  and  ro- 
mantic, as  to  remind  us  of  some  of  the  incidents  of  Roman  story. 
According  to  Boece,  Buchanan,  and  others,  his  life  was  for  some 
days  feebly  sustained  by  means  of  thin  cakes  pushed  through  a 
small  crevice  in  the  wall  of  his  dungeon  by  a  young  woman,  the 
daughter  of  the  governor,  whose  heart  was  moved  by  the  situation 
of  the  unhappy  Prince.    But  being  at  last  found  out,  she  was  put 
to  death  by  her  father,  who  regarded  her  noble  conduct  as  an  act 
of  treason  towards  himself.    Her  cruel  fate  did  not  prevent  an- 
other woman,  employed  in  the  family  as  a  wet  nurse,  from  supply- 
ing him  with  milk  conveyed  through  a  long  reed  from  her  own 

*  Lord.Hailes  has  published  an  original  paper,  throwing  some  light  on  the  mys- 
terious death  of  this  Prince,  which  was  communicated  to  him  hy  Mr  Astle,  a  gen- 
tleman to  whom  Scotland  is  indebted  for  many  valuable  illusirutions  of  her  history. 
Remarks  on  Hist,  of  Scot.  p.  278. 


926 


FIFESHIRE. 


breasts.  She  also  fell  a  victim  to  her  generous  compassion,  and 
the  Prmce  perished  miserably.  Albany  gave  out  that  he  died  of 
a  dysentery,  but  the  people  were  convinced  that  he  had  been 
foully  murdered.  A  public  inquiry  was  made  into  the  matter, 
but  a  jury,  composed  of  the  creatures  of  Albany,  were  sure  to  re- 
turn a  verdict  of  acquittal.  Their  report  is  a  partial  and  con- 
strained testimony  to  Albany's  innocence,  and  after  it  was  re- 
turned, any  further  rumours  unfavourable  to  him  or  to  his  friends 
were  forbidden  by  a  public  proclamation,— a  circumstance  which 
fully  accounts  for  the  silence  of  Winton*  and  others  upon  the 
subject.  The  Prince  was  buried  at  the  Abbey  of  Lindores, 
where  the  curious  may  still  see  the  stone  coffin  in  which,  it  is  said, 
his  remains  were  enclosed. 

It  is  difficult  to  ascertain  exactly  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  Falk- 
land. We  are  disposed  to  believe  that  it  stood  on  the  mound  a  little 
to  the  north  of  the  present  edifice.  The  palace  was  begun  pro- 
bably  by  James  II.,  and  completed  by  James  V.f  "  The  part  now 
remaining  consists  of  two  distinct  portions  of  building  in  different 
styles  of  architecture.  The  eastmost  portion  is  two  stories  in 
height,  and  in  the  monastic  style.  On  each  floor  there  are  six 
windows,  square  topped,  and  divided  by  mullions  into  two  lights. 
Between  the  windows  the  front  is  supported  by  buttresses  enriched 
with  niches,  in  which  statues  (representing  the  Stewart  family) 
were  placed,  the  mutilated  remains  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen, 
and  terminating  in  ornamental  pinnacles,  which  rise  considerably 
above  the  top  of  the  wall.  The  western  part  of  this  front  of  the 
palace  is  in  the  castellated  style,  and  of  greater  height  than  the 
other.  It  is  ornamented  with  two  round  towers,  between  which  is 
a  lofty  archway,  which  forms  the  entrance  to  the  court-yard  be- 

*  Wynton  says,  0.  C.  vol.  ii.  p.  397,  ed.  Lond.  J795, 

Scliir  Davy,  Duke  of  Rothesay, 

Of  March  the  sevyn  and  twenty'd  day, 

Yauld  his  saule  till  his  Creatoure, 

His  cors  til  halowit  sepulture. 

In  Lundoris  his  body  lyis. 

His  spiritc  in-till  Paradys. 
Wynton  does  not  mention  the  circumstances  under  which  the  Prince  died,  pro- 
bably for  the  reason  mentioned  in  the  text. 

t  It  is  universally  admitted  that  James  V.  made  splendid  additions  to  the  palace, 
for  his  initials  and  the  date  1 537  appear  upon  the  walls  ;  but  we  cannot  ascertain 
which  of  his  predecessors  began  the  structure.  It  appears,  from  a  statement  made 
by  Beatoun  of  Creich,  who  had  "the  keeping  of  the  palice  of  Falkland,"  to  the  Scot- 
tish Parliament  in  1325,  that  it  had  then  fallen  into  disrepair, — being  "  riven,  and 
the  thak  yrof  brokin."  This  circumstance  shows  that  the  palace,  even  at  that  period, 
was  an  old  building.  We  suspect  it  was  begun  by  James  II.,  by  whom  a  charter  was 
granted  at  Falkland  in  the  year  1446.  Pinkerton  says,  (Vol.  ii.  p.  424,)  James  IV. 
improved  or  enlarged  the  Castle  of  Falkland,  but  he  mentions  no  authority. 


FALKLAND. 


927 


hind,  and  which  in  former  times  was  secured  by  strong  doors,  and 
could  be  defended  by  the  towers  which  flank  it.  James  V.  made  great 
additions  to  the  palace,  and  appears  to  have  erected  two  ranges  of 
buildings  equal  in  size  to  that  described  on  the  east  and  north  sides 
of  the  court-yard.  As  completed,  therefore,  by  him,  the  palace  oc- 
cupied three  sides  of  a  square  court,  the  fourth  or  western  side  being 
enclosed  by  a  lofty  wall.  The  range  of  building  on  the  north  side 
of  the  court  has  now  entirely  disappeared,  and  of  that  on  the  east 
the  bare  walls  alone  remain,  these  two  portions  of  the  palace  hav- 
ing been  accidentally  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II." 
On  the  east  wing  the  "  facade  between  the  windows  is  ornament- 
ed with  finely  proportioned  Corinthian  pillars,  having  rich  capitals, 
and  above  the  windows  are  medallions  presenting  a  series  of  heads 
carved  in  high  relief,  some  of  which  are  beautifully  executed,  and 
■would  lead  us  to  believe  that  more  than  native  talent  had  been 
employed  upon  the  work.  On  the  top  of  the  basement  which 
supports  the  pillars,  the  initials  of  the  King  and  of  his  Queen, 
Mary  of  Guise,  are  carved  alternately."* 

Little  is  said  of  Falkland  as  a  royal  residence  before  the  time 
of  James  V.  That  gay  but  unfortunate  prince  was  kept  in  re- 
straint at  Falkland  when  a  minor,  by  the  Earl  of  Angus  and  the 
Douglasses.  Angus  left  him  there  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the 
chase,  and  proceeded  himself  to  the  Lothians ;  while  Sir  Archibald 
Douglas  went  to  Dundee,  and  Sir  George  to  St  Andrews,  en- 
trusting the  young  monarch  to  the  charge  of  Douglas  of  Park- 
head.  James  embraced  the  opportunity  to  escape  out  of  their 
hands  and  assert  his  independence.  That  his  purpose  might  not 
be  suspected,  he  ordered  preparations  for  a  splendid  hunt  on  the 
following  day.  The  chase  was  to  commence  at  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing, which  James  made  the  excuse  for  retiring  early  to  bed,  and 
Douglas,  after  setting  the  watch,  followed  his  example.  As  soon 
as  all  was  quiet  in  the  palace,  the  prince,  disguised  as  a  groom, 
contrived  to  elude  the  vigilance  of  his  guards  ;  went  to  the  stables 
and  saddled  a  fleet  horse,  and  then,  accompanied  by  two  trusty 
followers,  galloped  at  full  speed  to  Stirling  Castle,  which  he  reach- 
ed by  dawn  of  day.  James,  who  was  fond  of  hunting  and  hawk- 
ing, often  returned  to  Falkland  afterwards,  that  he  might  enjoy 
his  favourite  amusements.  In  the  following  passage,  taken  from 
an  old  humorous  ballad  which  the  learned  ascribe  to  the  pen  of 


*  Swan's  History  of  Fife,  Vol.  ii.  p.  230. 


928 


FIFESHIRE. 


this  joyous  prince,  he  celebrates  the  mirthful  recreations  of  this 
royal  retreat. 

Was  never  in  Scotland  hard  nor  sene 

Sic  dansin  nor  deray, 
Nowthir  at  Falkland  on  the  grene," 

Nor  Pebillis  at  the  Play, 
As  was  of  wowaris,  as  I  wene, 

At  Chryst-kirk  on  ane  day.-f- 

James  V.  died  at  Falkland,  in  December  1542,  shortly  after  the 
disastrous  affair  of  Solway  Moss.  It  is  alleged  that  he  died  of  a 
broken  heart.  After  this  battle,  says  Drummond  of  Hawthorn- 
den,  he  passed  in  a  retired  manner  to  Fife,  and  from  Hallyards  to 
Falkland,  "  where  he  gave  himself  over  to  sorrow.  No  man  had 
access  unto  him,  no,  not  his  own  domestics.  Now  are  his 
thoughts  busy  with  revenge,  now  with  rage  against  his  scornful 
nobility  ;  long  watchings,  continual  cares  and  passions,  abstinence 
from  food  and  recreation,  had  so  extenuated  his  body,  that, 
pierced  with  grief,  anguish,  impatience,  and  despair,  he  remained 
fixed  to  his  bed,  where  he  breathed  his  last,  in  the  33d  year  of  his 
age  and  32d  of  his  reign." 

Mary  of  Guise,  the  widow  of  James,  resided  occasionally  at 
Falkland  during  her  regency,  surrounded  by  her  French  soldiers. 
It  was  here,  in  the  year  1 559,  that  she  cited  the  Earl  of  Argyle, 
and  James,  prior  of  St  Andrews,  (afterwards  the  celebrated  Re- 
gent,) to  appear  before  her.  Her  daughter,  the  unhappy  Mary, 
seems  also  to  have  been  attached  to  this  residence.  She  retir- 
ed to  it,  on  several  occasions,  to  escape  from  the  anxiety  and  tur- 
moil of  her  distracted  court,  and  enjoy,  like  her  royal  father,  the 
pleasures  of  hunting  and  hawking.  She  was  at  Falkland  in  the 
month  of  September  1561,  when  Both  well  and  the  Hamiltons 
laid  a  plot  to  take  away  the  life  of  her  natural  brother,  the  Earl 
of  Murray,  that  the  Queen  might  be  completely  in  their  power. 
Bothwell  urged  that  the  thing  could  easily  be  accomplished  and  the 
Queen  surprised,  because  she  was  in  the  habit  of  resorting  daily 
to  a  wood  in  the  vicinity  of  Falkland,  where  stags  were  kept,  and 
where  she  could  be  seized  without  any  difficulty.^ 

Falkland  was  also  honoured  frequently  with  a  visit  from  that 
sage  monarch  James  VI.,  who  took  great  pleasure  in  buck  hunt- 
ing— a  taste  which  could  be  amply  indulged  in  the  noble  park 

*  Pinkerton  thinks  Falkland  on  the  Greene  the  title  of  an  ancient  ballad,  written 
in  the  style  of  Chryst-kiik. 

■f  Chrystis  kirk  on  the  Grene. 
X  Buchanan,  Hist.  lib.  xvii.  c.  29. 


FALKLAND. 


929 


that  lay  around  the  palace.  While  he  was  enjoying  this  pastime, 
in  the  month  of  June  1592,  a  desperate  attempt  was  made  by  the 
unprincipled  Francis  Earl  of  Bothwell  and  his  associates  to  obtain 
possession  of  his  person.  "  Bothwell  understanding  the  King  to  be 
at  quyetness  in  Falkland,  be  the  secret  advertisement  of  certayne 
courtiers,  rade  from  the  water  of  Esk  to  Falkland,  accompanied  by 
the  Master  of  Gray  and  a  goodly  number  of  horsemen.  But  when 
they  came  to  the  palice,  they  found  not  sik  reddeness  as  was  sup- 
posit,  bot  be  the  contrare  certayne  people  provydit  to  resist,  sa 
that  Bothwell  was  repulsit,  and  he,  to  his  perpetual  ignominie, 
fled  away  with  shaymeful  dreader ;  and  before  thay  departit,  thay 
spulyeit  the  King's  stable,  and  reft  many  horses  bayth  out  of  the 
town  of  Falkland  as  also  furth  of  the  park."* 

A  few  years  later  (1600),  James  was  exposed  to  another  assault 
in  the  same  place,  for  at  Falkland  the  first  scene  was  laid  of  that 
dark  tragedy,  known  in  Scottish  history  as  the  Gowrie  conspi- 
racy. An  account  of  this  painful  aflair  was  published  at  the  time 
by  royal  authority.  "  His  Majesty,  having  his  residence  at  Falk- 
land, and  being  daily  at  the  buck  hunting,  (as  his  use  is  in  that 
season),  upon  the  5th  day  of  August  1600,  raide  out  to  the  parke, 
between  six  and  seven  of  the  clocke  in  the  morning,  the  weather 
being  wonderfuU  pleasant  and  seasonable.  But  before  his  Majes- 
tie  could  leape  on  horseback,  Maister  Alexander  Ruthven,  second 
brother  to  the  late  Earle  of  Gowrie,  being  then  lighted  in  the 
town  of  Falkland,  hasted  him  faste  down  to  overtake  his  Majestie 
before  his  onleaping,  as  he  did,"  &c.  He  enticed  James  to  Perth, 
and  the  result  is  well  known. 

After  James  succeeded  to  the  crown  of  England,  Falkland 
ceased  to  be  a  royal  residence.  Charles  I.  slept  in  the  palace 
once  or  twice,  and  Charles  11.  also  visited  it;  but  after  the  de- 
parture of  James,  it  ceased  to  become  the  scene  of  important 
events,  and  hastened  to  decay.  Fairney  of  .  Fairney  acquired 
the  heritable  offices  of  Forester  of  the  Woods  and  Muirs  of 
Falkland,  the  lands  of  Nuthill,  &c.  In  1604  Fairney  sold  these 
offices  to  Sir  David  Murray  of  Gospetrie,  Lord  Scone,  for  4000 
merks,  and  about  the  same  time  James  VI.  gave  a  grant  to  his 
Lordship  of  the  offices  of  Constable  of  the  Castle,  Forester  of 
the  Forest,  and  Ranger  of  the  Lomonds  of  Falkland,  on  account 
of  his  services  at  Perth,  5th  August  1 600.    The  estate  then  passed 

p  23o''^         °^  ^'"^  "^^""^^       Sext._Bannatyne  Club  Book.    Edinburgh,  1025, 
FIFE.  3 


930  FIFESHIRE, 

into  the  family  of  Murray  of  Lochmaben,  afterwards  Earl  of  An- 
iiandale,  and  was  sold  in  1658  by  James  Lord  Annandale  to  John 
Earl  of  Athole.  His  successor,  the  Duke  of  Athole,  sold  it 
to  Skene  of  Hallyards,  from  whose  family  it  passed  to  the  late 
Mr  Bruce.  Mr  Bruce,  immediately  after  he  acquired  the  pro- 
perty, began  to  repair  the  palace.  He  converted  part  of  it  into  an 
elegant  and  commodious  dwelling-house  for  the  factor,  and  laid 
out  the  adjoining  grounds  as  an  ornamental  garden,  greatly  to  the 
embellishment  of  the  ancient  edifice.  The  same  taste  and  libe- 
rality are  exhibited  in  the  preservation  of  this  interesting  ruin  by 
the  present  proprietors,  O.  Tyudall  Bruce,  Esq.  and  his  lady. 

The  only  other  building  in  the  parish  that  deserves  particular 
mention  is  the  new  House  of  Falkland.  It  is  built  after  a  desio^n 
by  Mr  Burn  of  Edinburgh  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architec- 
ture. It  was  begun  in  1839  and  completed  in  1844,  and  is  justly 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  princely  edifices  in 
Scotland. 

Antiquities. — Several  coins  have  been  found  among  the  ruins  of 
the  palace.  They  are  not  very  ancient,  being  principally  coins  of 
Charles  1.  and  II. 

There  are  several  traces  of  ancient  fortifications  on  the  Lomond 
hills,  which  the  late  Colonel  Miller,  in  a  paper  on  the  battleof  Mons 
Grampius,  has  endeavoured  to  connect  with  the  movements  of  the 
Roman  and  Caledonian  armies.  "  The  fortifications  on  the  East 
Lomond  hill,"  he  says,  "  have  been  perfected  with  great  labour 
and  very  considerable  skill,  although  the  works  are  irregular.  On 
the  summit  there  are  two  works  150  yards  in  circumference. 
There  have  been  four  defences  on  the  north  side,  the  lower  ditch 
of  which  is  carried  through  the  rock  in  one  place.  On  the  west 
side  there  is  a  ravelin  which  would  not  disgrace  a  modern  en- 
gineer;  and  on  the  south  side  there  is  a  ditch  about  100  yards 
below  the  summit,  and  nearly  200  yards  long,  which  has  either 
been  filled  in  at  the  east  end  or  never  finished.  The  remainder 
of  it  is  about  6  feet  deep,  and  the  earth  is  thrown  up  in  the  in- 
side to  form  a  rampart,  which  is  still  in  excellent  preservation. 
Between  the  East  and  West  Lomonds,  and  about  half-way  below 
their  summits,  the  ground  presents  the  appearance  of  a  plain 
sloping  gently  towards  the  east,  although  very  much  broken. 
This  I  conceive  to  have  been  the  position  of  the  Caledonians  pre- 
vious to  the  battle."    Whether  this  opinion  be  well  founded  or 


FALKLAND. 


931 


not,  there  can  be  no  question  that  traces  of  ancient  military  works 
still  remain  upon  these  heights. 

"  Some  think,"  says  Sibbald,*  *'  that  the  station  or  camp  of 
the  ninth  legion  was  where  the  tower  of  Falkland  stands  now." 
We  are  disposed  to  believe  that  this  opinion  is  correct.  On  the 
estate  of  Nuthill,  to  the  west  of  the  town  of  Falkland,  the  remains 
of  Roman  entrenchments  may  still  be  traced. 

While  treating  of  the  antiquities  of  the  parish  we  may  mention, 
that  in  Slezer's  Theatrum  Scotice  (in  folio),  two  large  engravings 
of  the  palace  are  given,  which  represent  it  as  it  appeared  about  the 
year  1690.  One  of  the  views  is  taken  from  the  north,  and  pre- 
sents the  interior  court.  In  the  east  wing  all  the  statues  are 
entire,  and  there  are  two  on  each  buttress, — one  in  the  niche, 
and  the  other  above  the  capital  of  the  pillar. 

The  other  view  is  an  external  one,  taken  from  the  east  side  of 
the  town,  where  the  Pleasance  is  now  built.  It  represents  the 
east  wing  of  the  palace  as  much  more  entire  than  it  appears  at 
present.  The  east  port  of  the  town  or  arched  gateway  is  de- 
scribed as  it  then  existed.  It  stood  at  the  south-east  ansle  of  the 
palace,  having  a  porter's  lodge  upon  the  north  side,  where  the  gar- 
den wall  now  runs.  In  this  engraving  we  are  also  favoured  with  a 
view  of  the  old  homely  town  house,  with  its  diminutive  spire. 

Eminent  Men. — Among  the  eminent  men  connected  with  Falk- 
land must  be  classed  David,  first  Viscount  of  Stormont,  the  an- 
cestor of  the  Earls  of  Mansfield.  He  built  the  present  church, 
and  his  armorial  bearings,  as  well  as  those  of  his  lady,  Elizabeth, 
daughter  of  David  Beatoun  of  Creich,  are  beautifully  carved  in 
oak  on  the  front  of  the  gallery  in  the  north  aisle.  The  Beatouns 
of  Creich  were  the  original  keepers  of  the  palace,  and  therefore  it 
is  highly  probable  that  Viscount  Stormont's  connection  with  that  fa- 
mily might  partly  be  the  cause  of  his  obtaining  the  office.  His  ori- 
ginal designation  was  David  Murray  of  Gospetrie.  He  was  knight- 
ed and  appointed  comptroller  of  the  household  in  1599.  In  the 
events  connected  with  the  Gowrie  conspiracy  the  year  following, 
he  rendered  the  king  important  service,  and  James  seems  to  have 
been  grateful ;  for  Sir  David  received  charters  of  the  barony  of 
Segy  in  Kinross,  and  of  the  castle  stead  of  Falkland,  with  the 
office  of  Ranger  of  the  Lomonds  and  Forester  of  the  Woods  in 
160J,  and  of  Glendovich,  Balinblae,  and  Nuthill  in  1G02.  Three 
years  afterwards  he  was  created  Lord  Scone,    Murray  was  a  great 


*  His  Life,  p.  71. 


932 


FIFESHIIIE. 


favourite  with  his  royal  master.    He  was  a  man  of  a  bold  and  re- 
solute character,  and  therefore  an  admirable  hand,  in  that  fierce 
and  stormy  age,  for  executing  the  purpose,  which  James  so  ardently 
cherished,  of  introducing  Episcopacy.    It  was  chiefly  through  his 
influence  that  the  famous  Articles  of  Perth  were  carried  through 
the  Parliament  of  Scotland.    He  hastened  to  Court  with  the 
pleasing  intelligence,  and  James  testified  his  gratitude  for  this  ser-. 
vice  by  creating  him  (16th  August  1621)  Viscount  Stormont. 
He  died  in  1631,  and  was  buried  at  Scone,  where  a  magnificent 
monument  was  erected  to  his  memory. 

With  the  ancient  history  of  this  interesting  parish  the  name  of 
Sir  David  Lindsay  of  the  Mount  is  associated.  This  distinguish- 
ed poet  and  courtier,  whose  works  about  a  century  ago  were  as 
much  read  by  the  people  of  Scotland  as  the  Waverley  novels  are  in 
our  own  age,  seems  to  have  spent  some  happy  days  in  Falkland. 
In  «  the  second  epistle  of  the  Papingo,  directed  to  her  brethren 
of  Court,"  he  apostrophizes  Stirling,  Linlithgow,  and  Falkland, 
in  the  following  strain  : — 

"  Adieu  fair  Snuivdown,  with  thy  towers  hie. 

The  chapel  royal,  park,  and  table  round  ; 

May,  June,  and  July,  would  I  dwell  in  thee, 

Were  1  a  man  might  hear  the  birds  sound. 

Which  doth  against  the  Royal  rock  resound. 

Adieu  LUhgow,  who,  palace  of  pleasance, 
Might  be  a  pattern  in  Portugal  or  France. 
Farewell  Falkland,  the  fortress  sure  of  Fife, 
Thy  polite  park  under  the  Lowmond  Law. 
Some  time  in  thee  I  led  a  lusty  life. 
Thy  fallow-deer  to  see  them  raik  on  raw, 
Court- men  to  come  to  thee  they  stand  great  awe, 
Saying,  thy  burgh  been  of  all  boroughs  bail, 
Because  in  thee  they  never  got  good  ale.'" 

Falkland  is  the  birth-place  of  Richard  Cameron,  the  founder 
of  the  sect  of  the  Cameronians,  who  distinguished  himself  by  his 
resistance  to  the  criminal  attempt  of  Charles  H.  to  introduce 
Episcopacy  by  violence  into  Scotland.  In  his  youth,  he  was  him- 
self an  Episcopalian,  and  acted  as  parish  schoolmaster  and  pre- 
centor to  the  curate.  A  radical  change  took  place  in  his  views, 
however,  and  he  connected  himself  with  the  indulged  Presbyte- 
rians. He  subsequently  joined  the  party  who  refused  the  mdul- 
gence  He  was  undoubtedly  a- man  of  extreme  views,  but  this  cir- 
cumstance should  not  induce  us  to  forget  the  important  services 
which  he  and  his  party  have  rendered  to  the  cause  of  civil  and  re- 
ligious liberty.  He  was  killed  at  Airs  Moss  in  1680,  in  a  skirmish 
mih  the  King's  troops.    His  head  was  carried  in  savage  triumph 

•  Written  probably  about  the  year  1590. 


FALKLAND. 


933 


to  Edinburgh  on  a  pike,  and  his  body  interred  in  the  place  where 
he  fell. 

Falkland  affords  a  title  to  the  English  family  of  Carey.  Sir 
Henry  Carey  of  Berkhamstead,  Hertfordshire,  was  created  a  peer 
of  Scotland  by  the  style  and  title  of  Viscount  Falkland,  10th  No- 
vember 1620.  He  was  the  individual  who  brought  to  James  the 
earliest  tidings  of  Elizabeth's  death. 

The  residence  of  James  VI.  in  Falkland  did  not  induce  the 
people  of  the  town  to  embrace  his  views  on  church  government; 
for  in  1673  Mr  Robert  Gillespie,  a  preacher  among  the  Cove- 
nanters, was  brought  before  the  Council  for  having  kept  a  con- 
venticle in  the  town  of  Falkland.  Gillespie  refused  to  mention 
the  names  of  his  audience,  and  for  this  offence  he  was  carried 
to  the  Bass  Rock  (then  the  chief  state  prison  in  Scotland,) 
and  subjected  to  a  long  confinement.  About  the  same  period 
Mr  Donald  Cargill,  who  "suffered"  at  Edinburgh  in  1681, 
preached  one  Sunday  on  the  Lomond  Hills,  and  baptized  a 
great  many  children.  Both  he  and  Gillespie,  although  their  in- 
itials are  only  given,  are  mentioned  in  the  "  Memoirs  of  Emilia 
Geddie,"  a  native  of  Falkland.  The  subject  of  this  curious  and 
scarce  old  tract  was  born  about  the  year  1665.  She  was  interred 
in  the  present  burial  ground,  in  the  east  wall  of  which  a  monu- 
ment was  erected  to  her  memory. 

Among  the  individuals  connected  in  more  recent  times  with  the 
parish,  who  have  risen  to  some  degree  of  eminence,  mention  should 
be  made  of  Dr  Doig,  so  long  the  rector  of  the  Grammar  School 
of  Stirling.  He  was  at  one  time  parish  schoolmaster  of  Falkland. 
He  was  much  esteemed  by  his  contemporaries  for  his  learning. 
He  published  several  Latin  and  English  poems,  and  left  behind 
him  in  manuscript  an  immense  variety  of  literary,  historical,  and 
philological  treatises. 

The  late  Sergeant  Spankie,  a  distinguished  member  of  the 
English  Bar,  was  a  native  of  Falkland.  His  father  was  the  minis- 
ter of  the  parish.* 

Proprietors — There  are  sixteen  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly 
value  of  L.50  and  upwards.  The  chief  proprietors  are,  O.  Tyn- 
dall  Bruce,  Esq.  of  Falkland ;  William  Johnston,  Esq.  of  Lath- 

*  Perhaps  it  will  interest  the  poetical  antiquary  to  know,  that  "  Jenny  Nettles" 
hanged  herself  upon  a  tree  in  the  wood  of  Falkland.  She  was  buried  on  the  Nuthill 
estate  under  ''  a  cairn''  of  stones,  where  her  bones  were  recently  discovered. 


934 


FlFESHIftE. 


risk  ;  John  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Balbirnie ;  Mrs  Janiieson  of  Drums 
Captain  Aytoun  of  Purin  ;  Geo.  Wm.  Hope,  Esq.  of  Rankeillour 

III. — Population. 


Amount  of  population  in  1801, 
1811, 
1821, 
1831, 
1841, 


2211 
2317 
2459 
2658 
2885 


The  number  of  persons  that  live  in  towns  or  villages  is  perhaps 
2250, — the  remainder  of  course  live  in  the  country. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — 

Number  of  acres  in  the  parish  either  cultivated  or  occasionally  in  tillage,  800O 

occasionally  waste,  .  •  •  zUUu 

that  might  be  cultivated  with  a  profitable  outlay 

of  capital,  about  •       •  • 

in  undivided  common,  •  •  ' 

under  wood,  ...  • 

In  no  parish  in  Fife  has  agriculture  made  greater  advances 
within  the  last  twenty-five  years,  than  in  Falkland.  The  face  of 
the  country  has  entirely  changed,  and  places  comparatively  waste 
have  been  converted  into  large  and  beautiful  farms.  The  present 
valuable  and  extensive  farm  of  Falklandwood  was  then  a  marsh. 
The  proprietors  of  Falkland  have  been  the  chief  authors  of  these 
improvements.  Twenty-five  years  ago,  the  large  estates  in  the  pa- 
rish, of  which  Mr  Tyndall  Bruce  is  now  the  proprietor,  had  been 
long  in  the  market,  and  therefore  no  attempt  had  been  made  to  de- 
velope  their  resources  by  a  great  outlay  of  capital.  When  the  late 
Mr  Bruce,  however,  came  into  the  possession  of  the  estates,  he 
granted  improving  leases  of  twenty-one  years'  duration  ;  built  farm- 
steadings  upon  an  extensive  and  liberal  scale;  constructed  roads; 
and  assisted  the  tenantry  in  liming,  draining,  and  making  enclo- 
sures. While  these  important  changes  were  proceeding  on  the 
low  lands,  the  Lomond  Hills,  a  large  commonty  of  2000  acres, 
were  divided  amongst  the  towns-people  and  heritors.  While  undi- 
vided, no  improvement  could  be  made  upon  them,  so  that  they 
remained  from  one  generation  to  another  without  plantation  or 
enclosures.  But  immediately  upon  the  division  taking  place,  the 
larae  heritors,  Mr  Bruce  of  Falkland,  Mr  Johnstone  of  Lathnsk, 
•md  Mr  Balfour  of  Balbirnie,  proceeded  to  subdivide  their  re- 
spective portions,  which  had  the  effect  of  greatly  improving  the 
appearance  of  the  country  and  raising  the  value  of  the  land.  1  o 
give  some  idea  of  the  improvements  made  by  Mr  Bruce  upon  se- 


FALKLAND. 


935 


veral  hundred  acres,  it  is  only  necessary  to  mention,  that,  after 
tearing  up  the  natural  soil,  taking  one  crop  of  oats  off  it,  liming 
and  draining  it,  the  following  year,  taking  another  crop  of  oats  off 
it,  and  then  laying  it  down  in  gross,  the  annual  value  of  the  land 
rose  from  something  merely  nominal  to  a  grass  rental,  in  some  in- 
stances, of  L.2  per  Scotch  acre.  The  money  expended  upon 
these  improvements  has  been  highly  beneficial  to  the  labouring 
population.  It  may  further  be  remarked,  that  the  division  of  the 
commonty  has  been  also  advantageous  so  far  as  the  moral  charac- 
ter of  the  people  is  concerned.  Formerly,  many  individuals,  nick- 
named "  scrapies,"  kept  horses  and  cattle  in  the  town,  and,  if 
fame  may  be  believed,  supported  them  by  pilfering  freely  from 
their  neighbours,  but  when  questioned  how  they  supported  theircat- 
tle,  the  ready  answer  was,  "  O  !  by  sending  them  to  thehill."  With 
the  division  of  the  commonty,  however,  that  dishonest  generation 
passed  away,  and  no  reproach  of  this  nature  can  fairly  be  brought 
against  the  present  quiet  and  industrious  community. 

It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  extensive  plantations  have 
been  formed  in  this  parish  during  the  last  twenty-five  years.  Every 
kind  of  soft  and  hard  wood  has  been  planted,  and  the  trees  in  ge- 
neral are  in  a  very  thriving  condition.  But  the  larches  have 
suffered  severely  from  that  unaccountable  disease  which  has  at- 
tacked  them  in  all  parts  of  the  coimtry. 

Husbandry. — Husbandry  in  all  its  branches  is  conducted  upon 
the  most  scientific  principles.  The  cultivation  of  turnips  is  pur- 
sued to  a  very  great  extent,  in  which  guano  and  the  other  artifi- 
cial manures  are  largely  employed.  The  turnips  are  consumed 
partly  by  cattle  and  partly  by  sheep, — which  the  farmers  buy  ex- 
tensively at  Melrose  and  other  south  country  fairs.  The  breed- 
ing of  cattle  is  also  much  attended  to, — a  considerable  number 
being  reared  on  each  farm.  Until  very  lately,  the  fanners  en- 
deavoured to  keep  by  the  Fife  breed ;  but  pure  specimens  of  this 
breed  being  now  comparatively  rare,  a  crossing  with  the  short- 
horned  breed  has  of  late  years  become  very  general. 

Wages. — The  rate  of  wages  is  for  an  able-bodied  labourer  9s. 
a  week  in  summer,  and  8s.  in  winter.  For  women,  4s.  a  week. 
For  Wrights,  smiths,  and  masons,  from  12s.  to  15s.,  and  for 
weavers  from  7s.  to  8s. 

Rent. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.5824  Scots.  The 
annual  value  of  real  property,  for  which  it  was  assessed  in  1815, 
was  L.8144  Sterling.    From  the  agricultural  improvements  that 


936 


FIFESHIRE. 


have  been  made,  during  the  last  twenty-five  years,  the  value  of  real 
property  must  have  considerably  increased.  The  average  rent  of 
arable  land  per  acre  is  L.l,  12s.  6d.,  of  pasture  land,  7s.  6d. 

Manufactures. — A  great  part  of  the  population  of  the  parish 
are  engaged  in  hand-loom  weaving.  There  are  no  manufacturers 
carrying  on  business,  on  their  own  account,  in  the  town  of  Falk- 
land 'f  but  one  individual  manufactures  dowlas  and  sheeting  in 
Newton  of  Falkland,  and  six  manufacture  window-blinds  in  the 
village  of  Freuchie.  The  weavers  are  principally  employed  by 
manufacturers  in  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Newburgh,  Kettle^ 
and  Kirkcaldy. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Seven  markets  for  horses  and  cattle  are  held  in  Falkland  dur- 
ing the  year,  four  of  which  are  mentioned  in  the  charter  of  the 
burgh.    The  Lammas  market  was  formerly  one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive in  Scotland,  but  it  has  greatly  declined.    The  other  mar- 
kets have  also  fallen  away,  except  the  one  held  in  November,  im- 
mediately before  Hallow  Fair,  which  is  steadily  improving.  These 
markets  were  held  at  one  time  upon  the  Lomond  Hills,  but  of  late 
years  they  have  been  held  alternately  in  the  streets  of  Falkland, 
and  in  a  small  commonty  adjoining  the  town.    We  cannot  but 
consider  these  markets  as  injurious  to  the  morals  of  the  people. 
They  lead  to  much  intemperance.    There  is  no  market  for  grain 
in  the  town ;  it  is  sold  either  to  the  dealers  in  the  surrounding 
villages,  or  at  the  market  in  Kirkcaldy,  twelve  miles  distant. 

Villages, — Besides  the  ancient  royal  burgh  of  Falkland,  there 
are  two  villages  in  the  parish,  Newton  of  Falkland  and  Freuchie. 
None  of  these  villages  are  built  upon  any  regular  plan.  Nar- 
row dirty  streets  cross  each  other  in  every  direction,  and  the 
primitive,  but  most  odious  custom  of  making  dunghills  in  front  of 
the  houses,  is  still  maintained.  Freuchie  and  Newton  of  Falkland 
are  inhabited  principally  by  feuars  engaged  in  hand-loom  weaving. 

Falkland  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh  by  James  H.  in  1458. 
The  preamble  to  the  charter  of  creation  states,  as  reasons  for 
granting  it,  the  frequent  residence  of  the  royal  family  at  the  manor 
of  Falkland,  and  the  damage  and  inconvenience  sustained  by  the 
many  prelates,  peers,  barons,  nobles,  and  others  of  their  sub- 
jects who  came  to  their  country-seat,  for  want  of  victuallers  and 
innkeepers.  This  charter  was  renewed  by  James  VI.  in  1595. 
The  corporation  consists  of  three  bailies,  fifteen  councillors,  and 


FALKLAND. 


937 


a  clerk* — a  number  greatly  disproportioned  to  the  present  size 
and  importance  of  the  bur^h.  The  corporation  possessed  at 
one  time  a  very  considerable  extent  of  property,  but  by  mismanage- 
ment and  law-suits,  it  has  dwindled  down  to  very  narrow  dimen- 
sions. The  revenue  in  1844  amounted  to  L.56,  2s.  5^d.,  the  ex- 
penditure to  L.79,  15s.  3d.,  the  debt  to  L.323,  5s.  7d. 

Falkland  still  bears  some  faint  traces  of  its  former  greatness, 
— among  other  things,  in  the  names  of  its  streets,  one  of  which 
is  called  "  Parliament  Square,"  another  "  College  Close,"  and  a 
third,  the  "  West  Port."  Some  of  the  houses  which  belonged 
to  officers  of  the  household  in  the  time  of  James  VI.  still  remain. 

The  town  is  exceedingly  healthy.  Its  site  at  the  foot  of  the 
East  Lomonds  is  airy,  and  the  people  enjoy  an  inexhaustible  sup- 
ply of  the  purest  spring  water,  brought  into  the  town  in  pipes  from 
the  neighbouring  hill.  This  was  effected  by  the  town-council  in 
176G,  at  an  expense  of  L.400.  The  town,  however,  does  not  ap- 
pear to  have  been  healthy  in  former  times,  for  it  is  mentioned  in 
an  old  record,  that  the  followers  of  the  Court,  when  residing  in 
Falkland,  sent  their  children  to  be  educated  in  Cupar,  on  account 
of  the  greater  salubrity  of  the  place.  The  fertile  plain  to  the  east 
of  Falkland  was  then  marshy,  so  much  so,  that  when  James  VI., 
in  1611,  issued  a  mandate,  enjoining  the  presbytery  to  hold  their 
meetings  at  Falkland  instead  of  Cupar,  they  refused  to  com- 
ply, on  the  ground  that  Falkland  could  not  be  approached  in 
winter,  nor  after  heavy  rains  in  summer.  But  the  marshes 
have  been  drained  long  ago,  and  the  air,  ever  fresh  from  the  Lo- 
mond Hills,  is  so  healthy,  that  the  inhabitants  are  somewhat  re- 
markable for  longevity. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  stood  originally  at  Kilgour, 
in  the  western  confines  of  the  parish,  and  before  the  Reformation 
belonged  to  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews.  The  Earl  of  Fife  made 
a  grant  of  it  to  the  priory  in  1318.  The  deed  of  mortification,  as 
well  as  another  curious  old  charter,  bearing  date  1224,  which 
throws  light  upon  the  ecclesiastical  state  of  the  parish  at  that  early 
period,  may  be  seen  in  the  book  of  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews, 
lately  published  at  the  expense  of  Mr  Bruce. 

It  is  difficult  to  ascertain  when  the  church  was  removed  to  Falk- 

•  It  would  appear  that  Falkland  could  formerly  boast  of  a  provost,  for,  says  Pits- 
cotie,  (Hist.  1814,  p.  535,)  "  Patrick  Learmonth,  provost  of  Falkland,  carne  with 
ane  gu.dlic  companie  of  fyve  liundereth  horsemen  to  the  congregation  to  meet  the 
qucBn  at  Palklantl." 


938 


J'IFESHIKE. 


land.  There  is  a  stone  in  the  present  structure,  bearing  the  date 
1620,*  but  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  there  was  a  more  an- 
cient edifice  upon  the  same  site.  The  present  church  can  boast  of 
no  architectural  beauty.  It  was  repaired  about,  the  year  1772,  but 
internally  it  is  again  in  a  state  of  great  dilapidation.  It  has  a  damp 
earthen  floor,  and  many  of  the  seats  are  decayed  :  altogether  it  re- 
flects little  credit  upon  the  parish.  It  is  seated  for  about  700 
or  800  people.  The  front  of  the  gallery  in  the  north  aisle,  be- 
longing to  Mr  Bruce,  is  beautifully  carved  in  oak.  It  bears  the 
arms  of  Viscount  Stormont,  (captain  of  the  guards  in  the  time 
of  James  VI.)  by  whom  the  church  was  erected. 

Manse. — There  never  was  a  manse  at  Falkland  until  1807  ;  for 
when  the  original  manse  at  Kilgour  fell  into  decay,  the  minister, 
by  a  private  bargain  between  him  and  the  titular  of  the  teinds,  ob- 
tained in  lieu  of  a  manse  and  glebe,  one  chalder  of  bear,  amount- 
ing in  value  to  L.80  Scotch,  L.6,  13s.  4d.  Sterling,  and  more  re- 
cently he  was  accommodated  with  a  few  apartments  in  the  ruins 
of  the  palace.  This  state  of  matters  continued  till  1806,  when 
the  above  compact  was  declared  illegal  by  the  Court  of  Session. 
The  heritors  then  bought  half  an  acre  of  ground  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  town,  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  East 
Lomond  Hill,  for  the  site  of  a  manse  and  a  garden.  The  manse 
was  erected  here  in  1807,  in  a  neat  substantial  manner,  though  its 
interior  plan  might  have  been  more  conveniently  arranged.  The 
ground  on  which  the  manse  is  erected  was  anciently  part  of  the 
property  of  the  Order  of  the  Knights  Templars ;  and  a  copious 
spring  of  excellent  water  at  the  manse  is  still  named  St  John's 
Well,  and  the  adjoining  property  to  the  west  is  styled  St  Mary's 
Chapel  Yard ;  and  beside  it  is  another  strong  spring  of  excel- 
lent water,  called  the  '  Lady  Well,'  (in  honour  of  the  Virgin 
Mary,)  which  was  conveyed  in  pipes  to  the  town  of  Falkland,  in  the 
year  1766. 

Glebe. — The  glebe  is  still  where  it  originally  was,  near  the  site 
of  the  ancient  parish  kirk  of  Kilgour,  about  two  miles  west  of  the 

*  That  eminent  antiquary,  the  Rev.  Mr  Rownnd,  has  mentioned  two  very  weighty 
reasons  for  concluding  that  there  was  a  church  iu  the  town  of  Falkland,  before  thu 
erection  of  the  present  edifice  by  Viscount  Stormont  in  1620.  In  the  first  place, 
two  buttresses,  which  have  evidently  belonged  to  a  more  ancient  ecclesiastical  building, 
are  left  standing  to  support  the  front  wall  of  the  present  church.  In  the  second  place, 
it  is  mentioned  in  the  life  of  Mr  Patrick  Simson,  (the  Scots  Worthies,  edit.  1817.  p. 
83)  "  that  in  1608,  when  the  bishops  and  some  commissioners  of  the  General  As- 
seinbly  convened  in  the  palace  of  Falkland,  the  ministers  assembled  in  the  kirk  of  the 
town,  and  chose  him  for  their  moderator." 


FALKLAND. 


939 


town.  As  there  has  been  no  excambion  yet  made  it  is  very  in- 
conveniently situated ;  but  an  excambion  will,  in  all  likeliliood, 
take  place  in  a  few  months,  so  that  the  glebe  will  lie  immediately 
behind  the  manse.  The  present  glebe  consists  of  four  acres  of 
good  land,  for  which  the  incumbent  receives  L.  14  of  yearly  rent. 
Formerly  the  minister  of  Falkland  enjoyed  a  right  of  pasturage 
upon  the  Lomond  hills  for  threescore  of  sheep,  but  when  the 
commonty  was  divided,  this  right  was  lost,  we  know  not  upon  what 
ground. 

Cemetery. — The  ancient  burial  ground  was  at  Kilgour.  The 
church,  which  seems  to  have  been  a  small  building,  40  feet  by  16, 
stood  in  the  centre,  having  a  quire  at  its  east  end.  Not  a  single 
vestige  of  it  is  now  visible,  the  foundations  having  been  dug  up 
about  twenty  years  ago,  and  removed  to  fill  up  drains  on  the 
neighbouring  farm.  The  farmer  transported  one  of  the  ancient 
stone  coffins  into  his  stable-yard  to  form  a  water  trough  for  his 
cattle,  where  it  still  remains,  and  then  crowned  this  sacrilegious  act 
by  ploughing  the  churchyard  !  The  present  burial  ground  was 
probably  first  used  for  the  purpose  of  interment  about  the  year 
1670,  as  the  earliest  date  upon  the  tombstones  is  1674.  But 
the  old  cemetery  of  Kilgour  was  also  used,  up  to  the  beginning  of 
the  present  century,  if  not  later. 

There  are  three  dissenting  places  of  worship  in  the  parish  ;  two 
in  Falkland  and  one  in  Freuchie.  The  number  of  Dissenters, 
however,  is  not  large,  the  two  congregations  in  Falkland  being 
very  small.  The  great  body  of  the  people  adhere  to  the  Esta- 
blished Church.  The  stipend  consists  of  8  chalders  of  barley,  8 
of  oats,  and  1  of  bear,  valued  by  the  Fife  fiars.  The  sum  of 
L.  8,  6s.  8d.  is  allowed  for  communion  elements. 

Education. —  The  number  of  schools  in  the  parish  is  five ;  of 
scholars  attending  them  350.  The  parochial  teacher's  salary  is 
the  maximum,  and  his  fees  may  be  about  L.  50  per  annum.  He 
has  an  allowance  of  L.  10  a  year  for  house  and  garden.  There 
is  an  excellent  subscription  school  in  Freuchie,  which  confers  an 
immense  benefit  upon  the  village.  The  means  of  education  are 
put  within  the  reach  of  every  inhabitant  of  the  parish,  but  still  it 
is  doubtful  if  the  people  are  in  general  better  educated  than  they 
were  forty  years  ago.  The  children  of  both  sexes  are  taken  away 
from  school  at  such  an  early  age,  to  engage  in  hand-loom  weav- 
ing, that  sufficient  time  is  not  allowed  to  complete  their  educa- 
tion.  They  forget  much  of  what  they  have  learned  in  early  youth, 


940 


FIFESHIRE, 


before  they  arrive  at  years  of  maturity.  Unfortunately  there  is 
no  public  library  in  the  parish,  but  steps  are  now  taking  to  supply 
this  grievous  defect,  and  place  a  sound  literature  in  the  hands  of  the 
people.  A  Sunday  school  library,  which  is  extensively  used  both 
by  old  and  young,  has  been  established  during  the  last  year,  and 
it  already  contains  many  standard  works  upon  practical  divinity. 

Poor. — The  average  number  of  people  receiving  parochial  aid 
is  34.  Besides  the  regular  paupers,  30  or  40  persons  in  straiten- 
ed circumstances  sometimes  receive  a  little  aid  from  the  kirk-ses- 
sion. The  whole  expenditure  for  the  poor  of  the  parish,  which 
contains  nearly  3000  people,  is,  for  the  last  year,  L.  143.  The 
weekly  allowances  run  from  6d.  to  2s.  9d.:  Is.  is  about  the  ave- 
rage. The  bulk  of  the  paupers  are  above  sixty  years  of  age. 
There  cannot  be  a  doubt  that  a  reluctance  to  apply  for  parochial 
aid  is  disappearing,  but,  at  the  same  time,  it  is  feared  that  an  ex- 
cessive desire  to  foster  a  spirit  of  self-dependence  among  the  poor, 
has,  in  this  as  in  other  parishes,  led  to  a  stinted  allowance  in 
many  cases  of  real  distress.  The  first  voluntary  assessment  for 
the  aid  of  the  poor  was  made  in  1800,  and  the  system  has  been 
continued  up  to  the  present  time  ;  but  as  some  of  the  heritors 
have  refused  to  pay  their  proportion  for  the  last  year,  the  system 
of  legal  assessment  will,  in  all  probability,  be  immediately  intro- 
duced. A  yearly  sum  of  L.  40  or  L.  50  is  derived  from  mortifi- 
cations, sessional  dues,  mortcloth,  &c.,  while  the  collections  at 
the  church  doors  may  upon  an  average  amount  to  L.  20  a  year. 
It  is  proper  to  mention  that  liberal  donations  are  made  to  the 
poor  by  Mr  and  Mrs  Bruce  of  Falkland. 

Inns.  In  the  parish  there  are  fourteen  licensed  houses  for  the 

sale  of  ardent  spirits.  We  are  afraid  that  stringent  police  regu- 
lations are  necessary  to  keep  some  of  them  in  proper  order.  The 
practice  of  granting  such  licenses  to  so  many  houses  in  a  parish 
of  this  size  is  highly  censurable. 

Fuel.  There  is  a  great  abundance  of  coal  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. It  is  brought  in  carts  from  the  adjoining  parish  of  Mark- 
inch,  and  also  in  considerable  quantities  from  Lochgelly.  The 
Balbirnie  and  Lochgelly  coals  are  of  excellent  quality,  and  if  we 
include  the  carriage,  cost  9s.  or  10s.  a  ton. 

February  1845. 


PARISH  OF  ORAIL. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

WILLIAM  MERSON,  A.  M.,  MINISTER. 

I.  —  Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — In  the  former  Statistical  Account,  the  name  of  this 
parish  is  supposed  to  point  out,  in  the  Gaelic  language,  its  situa- 
tion upon  a  small  winding  or  bending  of  the  shore.  But,  as  in 
old  times  it  was  written  Carrail  or  Carayle,  afterwards  contracted 
into  Craill  or  Cryle,  and  in  Latin  it  is  called  Oppidum  or  Burgum 
CaralcB  or  Caralice,  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  is  compounded  of  - 
caer,  a  town,  and  aj/^e  or  ala,  a  wing  or  corner,  which  is  quite  de- 
scriptive of  the  place,  the  town  being  situated  in  the  eastern  cor- 
ner of  the  county  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  the  East 
Nook  o'  Fife. 

Extent,  Boundaries,  (^c. — The  parish  is  of  a  very  irregular 
shape,  and  of  a  very  unequal  breadth,  while  its  boundaries  are  so 
ill  defined  that  the  precise  number  of  acres  which  it  contains 
has  never  been  ascertained,  on  account  of  its  intermixture  with 
other  parishes.  However,  it  acknowledgedly  extends  from  Fife 
Ness  at  the  east,  to  King's  Cairn  at  the  west,  a  distance  of  about 
7  miles,  and  from  the  Frith  of  Forth  on  the  south,  to  the  Ger- 
man Ocean  on  the  north,  about  S  miles  ;  but  within  this  area  are 
included  three  farms  in  Kingsbarns,  which  were  taken  ofiF  when 
that  parish  was  disjoined  in  1631.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south 
and  east  by  the  Frith  of  Forth  and  German  Ocean,  extending 
along  the  former  about  3,  and  the  latter  about  2  miles  ;  on  the 
north,  it  is  bounded  by  the  parishes  of  Kingsbarns,  St  Leonards, 
and  Denino ;  and,  on  the  west,  by  Carnbee  and  Kilrenny. 

Topographical  Appearances. —  When  viewed  from  the  sea,  the 
general  appearance  of  the  country  is  flat,  and,  owing  to  the  want 
of  wood,  it  looks  naked.  The  coast  is  bold  and  rocky,  with  only 
a  few  creeks,  where  vessels  of  any  size  can  be  landed  with  safety 


942 


FIPESHIRE. 


From  the  sea  the  ground  rises  abruptly  to  a  considerable  height, 
so  that,  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  yards  from  high  water  nnark, 
there  is  scarcely  a  point  where  it  does  not  reach  the  height  of  60 
feet.  Thence  it  gradually  swells  in  a  westerly  direction,  without 
hill  or  steep,  towards  Airdrie,  {Ard-rhi,  the  King's  Height,)  and 
Drumrack.  In  this  direction,  when  the  sun  goes  westerly,  and 
the  atmosphere  is  favourable,  the  view  at  some  points  is  beautiful 
and  extensive.  From  Airdrie  or  Drumrack,  and  especially  from 
the  ancient  tower  of  the  former,  one  may,  with  a  very  slight  turn 
of  his  eye,  survey  the  whole  Lothian  coast  from  Leith  to  St  Abb's 
Head,  along  with  the  islands  of  the  Forth, — Inchkeith,  the  Bass, 
the  May,  &c.,  together  with  the  multitude  of  vessels  that  float 
upon  the  Forth,  and  the  number  of  towns  and  villages  situated 
upon  its  banks  on  either  sid«,  till  at  last  his  attention  is  arrest- 
ed by  the  Bell  Rock  Lighthouse,  erected  to  warn  the  mariner 
of  danger,  and  at  night  to  guide  him  onward  in  his  pathless 
track.  In  ascending  from  the  shore  to  the  highest  part  of  the 
parish,  the  agriculturist  never  fails  to  be  struck  with  the  variety 
of  soil  he  has  to  pass  over,  proceeding  from  the  richest  black 
loam  to  thin  wet  clay ;  the  former,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
town,  drawing  a  yearly  rent  of  L.6  and  L.7  the  Scotch  acre, — 
the  latter  let  on  improving  leases  for  a  mere  trifle. 

Island  and  Rocks.— The  Isle  of  May,  which,  in  1743,  was 
claimed  by  the  magistrates  and  minister  of  West  Anstruther,  as  a 
portion  of  their  parish,  has  de  facto,  if  not  dejure,  been  connected 
with  Crail  since  the  Keformation  at  least.  It  lies  about  six  miles 
south-east  from  the  harbour  of  Crail,  and  is  about  a  mile  in  length 
by  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  Its  shores  are  ge- 
nerally cliffy,  and  at  the  west  end  rise  perpendicularly  to  the  height 
of  150  feet  or  upwards.  Yet  there  are  two  or  three  places  at 
which  vessels  can  touch  according  to  wind  and  tide.  Although 
situated  in  the  mouth  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  at  its  junction  with 
the  German  Ocean,  and  consequently  exposed  to  heavy  eastern 
storms,  the  island  is  very  productive  of  its  native  plants,  and  seve- 
ral parks  are  cultivated  and  enclosed.  It  supports  a  few  cows  and 
a  flock  of  sheep,  which  are  said  to  improve  in  flesh  and  fleece.  A 
peculiar  kind  of  long-wooled  rabbit  is  also  found  upon  it ;  and  about 
June  and  July  immense  numbers  of  birds  breed  their  young  upon 
the  ledges  of  its  western  precipices.  It  has  also  abundance  of 
fresh  water  and  a  small  lake.  This  island,  once  famous  for  the 
cure  of  barren  women,  belonged  at  one  time  to  the  monks  of  Read- 


CRAIL. 


943 


ing,  for  whom  David  I.  founded  a  monastery,  which  was  after- 
wards dedicated  to  St  Adrian,  whose  body  was  buried  there,  and 
whose  coffin,  cut  out  of  stone,  is  still  exhibited  in  the  ruins  of  the 
chapel.  From  the  monks  it  was  purchased  by  a  bishop  of  St  An- 
drews, and  attached  first  to  his  own  cathedral  and  afterwards  to 
the  priory  of  Pittenweem.  In  aftertimes  it  became  the  property 
of  Cuningham  of  Barns,  and  all  parochial  burdens  exigible  from 
it  are  understood  to  be  paid  out  of  his  barony  in  the  parish  of 
Crail.  This  proprietor  in  1635  received  power  from  Parliament 
tf)  erect  a  lighthouse  upon  the  island,  (though  one  had  existed 
there  before),  and  to  collect  certain  duties  from  the  shipping  for 
its  maintenance. 

The  lighthouse  then  erected  consisted  of  a  square  tower,  on  the 
top  of  which  a  quantity  of  coals  was  kept  burning  every  night. 
Rude  as  this  mode  of  giving  light  to  the  navigators  of  the  Forth 
may  seem,  it  continued  with  little  improvement  till  1816,  when 
the  Commissioners  of  the  Northern  Lights  (having  previously 
purchased  the  island  with  all  the  rights  of  the  light-keeping), 
erected  a  beacon  with  a  stationary  oil  light,  240  feet  above  the 
medium  level  of  the  sea,  and  capable  of  being  seen  at  seven 
leagues  distance. 

About  the  same  time  the  attention  of  the  Commissioners  was 
directed  to  the  Carr — a  reef  of  rocks  extending  between  one  and 
two  miles  from  Fifeness,  on  which,  according  to  calculation,  there 
had  been  at  least  two  shipwrecks  every  year.  And  after  years  of 
labour  and  many  disappointments,  they  at  length  succeeded  in 
erecting  a  building  at  the  extreme  point,  where  there  is  water  deep 
enough  for  vessels  entering  the  Forth.  This  building  consists  of 
a  base  of  solid  masonry,  from  the  top  of  which  spring  iron  pillars 
terminating  in  a  point,  with  a  hollow  ball  raised  25  feet  above 
the  medium  level  of  the  sea.  This  erection  was  reckoned  a 
mighty  boon  to  the  shipping  interest;  but  still  the  Commission- 
ers were  not  satisfied.  Guided,  therefore,  by  Mr  Stevenson,  civil 
engineer,  they,  in  1843-44,  built  a  second  lighthouse  upon  the 
May,  with  a  light  so  directed  as  to  point  out  the  position  of  the 
Carr,  and  show  mariners  how  to  enter  the  Frith  in  safety.  This 
light  was  first  exhibited  in  autumn  1844;  yet,  strange  to  say,  on 
the  1st  of  October  of  the  same  year,  the  Windsor  Castle  steamer, 
on  her  return  from  Dundee  with  about  200  passengers,  who  had 
gone  thither  to  witness  the  Queen's  departure,  struck  upon  the 
Carr  rock  beacon  with  such  violence  as  to  compel  the  commander 


914 


FIFESHIRB. 


to  run  her  ashore  among  Kilminning  rocks,  where  she  went  to 
pieces.    Providentially  no  lives  were  lost. 

Beside  the  lighthouses,  there  are  comfortable  lodgings  for  the 
keepers  and  their  families,  and  excellent  accommodation  for  the 
Commissioners  when  they  may  visit  the  island.  The  only  inha- 
bitants are  the  persons  connected  with  the  lighthouses  ;  but  there- 
are  generally  also  a  number  of  pilots  from  various  quarters  look- 
ing out  for  ships,  and  the  old  light  tower  is  fitted  up  for  their  ac- 
commodation. 

Hydrography. — There  are  no  lakes  or  rivers  in  this  parish,  yet 
there  is  a  plentiful  supply  of  excellent  water  from  the  springs 
which  are  everywhere  to  be  found,  and  from  a  few  burns  which 
meander  here  and  there.  At  one  time  there  was  a  loch  of  Sypsies, 
covering  six  or  eight  acres  of  ground  ;  but,  since  the  beginning  of 
the  present  century,  it  has  been  drained,  and  the  soil  is  now  under 
cultivation. 

Climate.— The  nature  of  the  soil,  and  the  position  of  the  country 
at  the  junction  of  the  Forth  with  the  ocean,  combine  to  render 
the  climate  particularly  pure  and  healthful    The  public  roads, 
and  the  streets  and  walks  of  the  town,  are  almost  always  dry,  for 
no  sooner  does  the  rain  fall,  than  it  is  absorbed  and  lost  in  the 
soil,  or  flows  away  into  the  sea.    The  spring  is,  no  doubt,  often 
rendered  chill  and  unpleasant  by  a  /war  which  sets  in  from  the 
east  during  the  months  of  April  and  May.    The  wind  continuing 
in  that  quarter  sometimes  for  weeks  together,  brings  with  it  a 
dens'e  vapour,  which  spreads  over  the  country  for  several  miles, 
thus  rendering  the  east  coast  not  so  agreeable  as  the  west  at  that 
period  of  the  year ;  yet,  though  such  weather  be  unpleasant  to 
the  feelings,  and  sometimes  leads  delicate  persons  to  remove  to  a 
more  inland  situation,  it  does  not  seem  to  retard  vegetation,  or  to 
be  very  prejudicial  to  animal  health.    Every  species  of  crop  ad- 
vances to  maturity  as  speedily  as  in  almost  any  district  of  the 
country.   The  arbutus  and  similar  trees  often  ripen  their  berries  ; 
the  jessamine  flowers  on  houses  along  the  streets ;  and  fuschias 
not  only  withstand  the  winter  in  open  ground,  but,  on  returning 
spring,  may  be  found  budding  at  a  height  of  four  and  five  feet 
from  the  ground.    Indeed,  unless  upon  extraordinary  occasions, 
the  labour  of  the  husbandman  has  been,  for  a  number  of  years, 
but  little  interrupted  either  by  frost  or  snow.    Bestial  of  all  kinds 
thrive  well  and  fatten  rapidly.    Among  cattle,  murrain  prevailed 
pretty  extensively  last  year,  but  with  very  few  deaths  ;  and  this 


CRAIL. 


945 


year  there  have  been  a  few  instances  of  a  sort  of  influenza  among 
horses,  but  they  have  in  general  recovered.  Judging  from  history 
and  experience,  the  chmate  of  this  parish  may^be  considered  as 
highly  conducive  to  health  ;  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that,  from 
its  proximity  to  the  sea,  it  is  less  exposed  to  the  extremes  of  heat 
and  cold  than  more  elevated  situations. 

Epidemics,  or  contagious  diseases,  (unless  what  are  common 
to  children,)  are  scarcely  known  here.  Within  these  few  years, 
several  people  have  died  beyond  ninety  years  of  age,  and  there 
are  still  a  number  in  wonderful  health  and  activity,  who  are  upon 
the  borders  of  it. 

Geology  and  Botany. — The  geological  structure  of  this -parish, 
as  seen  along  the  shore,  consists  entirely  of  the  coal  formation, 
including  sandstone,  shale,  clay,  ironstone,  and  coal.  The  usual 
dip  of  the  strata  is  towards  the  east ;  but  on  the  western  part  of 
the  parish,  where  lime  and  coal  are  still  wrought,  the  dip  is  to 
the  west.  On  the  west  of  the  harbour,  different  seams  of  coal 
appear,  and  clay-ironstone  in  thin  bands  alternate  with  the  shale. 
The  action  of  the  advancing  tide  is  very  remarkable  on  the  east 
of  the  harbour,  where  the  priory  stood.  The  ruins,  which  were 
there  about  half  a  century  ago,  are  now  entirely  swept  away,  and 
only  the  gateway  from  the  land,  with  a  small  part  of  the  founda- 
tion of  a  wall  in  the  alluvial  soil,  remains  to  point  out  its  site. 

At  the  very  extremity  of  Fifeness,  a  pure  white  sandstone  oc- 
curs particularly  adapted  for  various  economical  purposes.  As 
plants  used  in  medicine,  the  Pareitaria  officinalis  and  Conium  ma- 
culatum  may  be  mentioned.  On  the  rocks  under  the  castle  the 
Chdranthus  Clieiri  occms  ;  and  on  the  sea -cliffs  to  the  west  of  the 
harbour,  the  Brassicn  olej-acea  maintains  its  place  in  a  congenial  lo- 
cality. In  a  small  garden  on  the  sea  margin  at  Fifeness  is  the 
Lavatera  arborea,  which  once  had  a  habitat  on  the  islands  of  the 
Frith.  The  Asphnium  marinwn  is  met  with  among  the  rocks  on 
the  south  shore. 

Of  the  less  common  algae  may  be  mentioned  the  Alaria  escu- 
hnta  and  the  Himantlialia  lorea,  which  grow  abundantly  about 
Fifeness. 

Woods.—The  plantations  in  this  parish  are  of  very  limited  ex- 
tent, not  exceeding  seventy  or  eighty  acres,  chiefly  fir;  of  which 
about  fifty  are  on  the  lands  of  Airdrie  and  Redwells,  ten  or  twelve 
on  Kingsmuir,  about  eight  on  Sipsies,  and  four  on  Wormistone. 
A  good  number  of  the  trees  about  Airdrie  and  Wormistone,  chieflv 

FIFE.  " 


3o 


946 


FIFESHIHE. 


ash  and  elm,  are  of  stately  size.  There  are  also  a-  few  in  and 
around  the  churchyard,  of  ash,  sycamore,  and  elm,  on  which 
crows  find  a  place  to  build.  But  in  general  the  soil  is  considered 
too  valuable  for  agricultural  purposes,  to  tempt  any  one  to  plant 
trees,  unless  around  his  domicile. 

Quarries  and  Mines.— Freestone  for  ordinary  purposes  may  be 
found  in  almost  any  quarter  of  the  parish,  so  that  few  farmers  re- 
quire to  go  for  stones  beyond  their  own  lands.  At  Craighead, 
Newhall,  and  Kingsmuir,  stones  may  be  found  suited  to  the  finest 
operations  of  masonry.  Ironstone  is  also  abundant,  and  frequently 
'  exported  from  the  harbour  of  Crail.  Lime  has  been  wrought  to  a 
great  extent  upon  the  borough  muir,  as  the  remains  of  the  work 
still  testify.  The  only  work  of  that  description  now  in  operation 
is  at  Troustrie,  and  occasionally  at  Newhall. 

There  are  many  indications  of  coals  having  been  dug  here  at 
an  early  period ;  and  only  a  few  years  ago  Robert  Inglis,  Esq. 
had  an  extensive  work  upon  his  estate  of  Kirkmay,  with  a  steam- 
engine  for  pumping  out  the  water— but  he  gave  it  up.  And  at 
present,  unless  at  times  on  Kingsmuir,  coals  are  raised  only  for 
burning  lime,  though  there  is  not  the  least  doubt  that  many  seams 

remain  untouched. 

Fire  and  common  clays  are  dug  in  great  abundance  on  the  es- 
tate of  Kirkmay,  where  a  brick  and  tile  work  has  been  earned  on 
for  a  long  time.  Fire-clay  bricks  and  chimney  cans  are  manufac- 
tured here  and  exported  to  Arbroath,  Dundee,  and  other  towns 
to  a  considerable  extent. 

n.  Civil  History. 
Seats  and  Brsidcnces.-A\most  all  the  baronial  abodes  have 
been  suffered  to  fall  into  decay  or  ruin,  and  some  of  them  are  now 
onlv  known  by  name.  At  the  southern  extremity  of  this  parish 
an  'old  house  with  vaulted  cellars,  and  rooms  above,  occupied  by 
farm-servants,  is  the  chief  remain  of  the  extensive  mansion  of  the 
Cunninghams  of  Barns.  Here,  about  1620,  the  poet  and  h.slonan, 
Drummond  of  Hawthornden,  is  understood  to  have  written  his  ce- 
lebrated Polemo-Middrnia,  or  Battle  of  the  Dunghill-a  humorous 
poem  in  doggerel  Latin,  giving  a  satirical  description  of  a  rea  or 
'^n  imaoinan  qi.arrel  bewteen  the  Lady  of  Barns  and  one  of  her 
n  ilhSo  rs.-  Here  he  tuned  that  lyre,  (which  he  afterwards  a  - 
d  e^sed  in  melancholy  strains,)  to  tlie  full  enjoyment  of  a  live  y 
i..ngination  and  buoyant  spirits.  Here  he  may  av 
enjoved  the  happiest  period  of  his  life.    And  here  his  feelings 


CRAIL. 


947 


ceived  a  shock  which  no  human  contrivance  was  able  to  remove. 
For  it  was  at  this  spot,  near  Crellia  Crofta,  and  in  this  very  house, 
of  which  a  remnant  now  is  seen,  that  he  captivated  the  affections 
of  Miss  Cunningham,  the  daughter  of  the  principal  heroine  of  the 
Polemo,  and  engaged  her  for  his  wife.    The  marriage  day  was 
fixed — the  friends  were  invited — the  feast  was  in  preparation,  and 
the  parson  engaged  to  do  the  solemn  duty,  when  the  beautiful  and 
youthful  bride  was  seized  with  fever  and  expired.  Drummond's 
grief  on  this  occasion  he  has  expressed  in  poems  which  have 
gained  him  the  name  of  the  Scottish  Petrarch.    In  the  hope  of 
relieving  his  burdened  spirit,  he  forsook  his  patrimonial  estate  and 
country  for  foreign  climes.    Eight  years  he  spent  abroad.  At 
length  returning,  he  was  united  to  Miss  Logan,  grand-daughter 
of  Sir  Robert  Logan  of  Restalrig. 

In  process  of  time  the  estate  of  Barns  passed  into  another 
family,  and  is  now  the  property  of  Robert  Anstruther,  Esq.  of 
Caipley. 

A  small  summer-house  on  the  rock  projecting  into  the  sea  at 
Castlehaven  points  out  the  spot  where  Sir  Neil  Cunningham— an 
elder  branch  of  the  house  of  Barns— entertained  his  followers,  and 
whence  he  defied  the  assaults  of  his  deadly  foes.  The  ruins  of 
the  castle  were  pulled  down  in  1839. 

Newhall  tower  is  now  completely  gone,  so  that  only  some  old 
persons  can  point  to  the  spot  where  once  it  stood. 

Balcomie  Castle,  once  reckoned  amongst  the  finest  buildings  in 
Fife,  and  in  which  a  late  owner  is  reported  to  have  said  he  could 
accommodate  a  troop  of  dragoons,  and  give  every  man  a  bed  and 
every  horse  a  stall,  is  now  reduced  to  one  wing,  which,  however, 
affords  genteel  and  ample  accommodation  for  the  tenant.  The 
ancient  lofty  tower  still  remains,  though  much  mutilated,  and, 
while  it  forms  an  excellent  land-mark  to  mariners,  shows  what  the 
buildmg  must  have  been.  Some  of  the  houses  which  enclose  the 
court -yard  are  evidently  of  far  more  recent  date  than  the  castle  • 
for,  over  the  arched  gateway  into  the  court,  there  are  two  stones, 
on  one  of  which  are  the  arms  of  Learmonth,  as  depicted  on  the 
seatmg  in  the  parish  church,  with  the  initials  J.  L.  at  the  bottom, 
and  on  the  other  the  arms  of  Myrton,  with  the  initials  E.  M. 
Between  these  stones  there  i^a  vacant  space,  as  if  a  third  had 
dropped  out ;  and  fortunately,  Mr  Todd,  the  tenant,  discovered 
It  lately  as  one  of  the  paving  stones  of  his  barn-floor.  On  this 
there  are,  at  the  top,  hands  joined  as  if  by  the  ties  of  wedlock,  and 


948 


FIFESHIRE. 


underneath,  the  arms  of  Learmonth  and  Myrton  quartered,  with 
the  letters  J.  M.  and  date  1602  at  the  base.    We  must  therefore 
conclude  that  the  initials  J.  L.  and  E.  M.  mean  Sir  John  Lear- 
month and  Elizabeth  Myrton,  the  proprietors  of  the  estate  at  the 
time,  and  husband  and  wife  when  that  portion  of  the  building  was 
erected.    Now,  Sibbald  states  that  from  Malcolm  IV.  to  James 
11.  the  castle  belonged  to  the  Hays  ;  that  since,  the  Leslies  have 
had  it ;  and  that  afterwards  it  came  to  the  Learmonths ;  which 
would  lead  down  to  nearly  the  above  date.    Sir  James  Learmonth, 
eldest  son  of  Sir  John,  became  a  Lord  of  Session  in  1627,  as  Lord 
Balcomie.    He  was  a  member  of  several  Parliamentary  Commis- 
sions, and  died  in  Edinburgh  while  presiding  as  Lord  President  of 
the  Court,  Lament  says,  in  June  1657.    Lord  Balcomie  had  a 
son,  John,  who  became  a  regent  in  the  Old  College  of  St  An- 
drews, but  he  must  have  died  young,  as  his  Lordship  was  succeeded 
in  the  castle  and  estate  by  a  daughter  as  heiress.    This  daughter 
married  Sir  William  Gordon  of  Lismore,  and  the  property  con- 
tinued in  the  Gordon  family  till  1705,  when  it  was  purchased  by 
Sir  William  Hope,  son  of  Sir  James  Hope  of  Hopetown.  Sir 
William  was  a  soldier  who  had  seen  much  foreign  service,  and 
gained  the  renown  of  being  the  most  expert  swordsman  and  the 
finest  rider  of  his  day.    He  published  a  work  called  "  The  Com- 
plete Fencing  Master,"  in  which  he  described  the  whole  art,  and 
gave  directions  how  to  act  in  single  combat  or  on  horseback.  Ac- 
cording to  a  tradition  in  the  country,  the  fame  of  Sir  William  and 
his  book  induced  a  foreign  cavalier  to  take  a  far  journey  to  try  his 
skill.    Having  arrived  at  Crail  with  this  intent,  he  challenged  Sir 
William  to  meet  him  on  horseback  in  the  open  field.    The  parties 
met  within  a  mile  of  the  Castle  of  Balcomie,  at  the  spot  where  the 
standing  stone  of  Sauchope  still  remains,  and  which  the  road  from 
Crail  to  Balcomie  then  passed.    The  onset  was  dreadful— but  at 
length  Sir  William's  sword,  with  deadly  force  penetrated  the  body 
of  his  antagonist.    The  wounded  cavalier  fell,  and  with  his  dying 
breath  declared  his  name  and  title,  and  requested  his  victorious 
antagonist  to  become  the  protector  of  his  widowed  lady. 

Sir  William  died  in  1724,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Sir 
George,  who  enjoyed  the  property  for  a  very  few  years.  Sir  Wil- 
liam, son  of  Sir  George,  was  an  officer  in  the  East  India  Com- 
pany's service^  and  was  killed  in  India.  Thereafter  the  property 
was  sold  to  Mr  Scott  of  Scotstarvit,  and  left  by  him  to  his  se- 
cond son,  General  Scott,  who  rebuilt  the  part  now  occupied  by 


CRAIL. 


949 


the  tenant,  and  added  a  large  house  at  the  north  end  of  it  for  a 
billiard  room.  The  General  seems  to  have  had  one  son,  who  died 
young,  and  was  interred  in  the  choir  of  the  church  of  Crail.  His 
three  daughters  became  respectively  Duchess  of  Portland,  Count- 
ess of  Moray,  and  Lady  Canning.  By  these  noble  persons  the 
castle  was  sold  to  Thomas,  Earl  of  Kellie,  who  pulled  down  the 
old  building,  and  reduced  it  to  what  it  now  is.  Sir  Thomas 
Erskine,  great-grandson  of  said  Earl,  is  now  the  proprietor. 

In  the  Castle  of  Balcomie  Mary  of  Guise  was  hospitably  enter- 
tained by  the  then  proprietor,  in  June  1538,  having  landed,  after 
a  stormy  passage,  at  the  adjoining  creek  of  Fifeness,  to  be  mar- 
ried to  King  James  V. 

Airdrie  House,  which  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  commanding  positions  in  the  parish,  is  embosomed  in  wood 
in  every  direction,  except  the  south,  whence  the  finest  view  is  to 
be  had ;  but,  like  the  other  ancient  dwellings,  it  is  no  longer  the 
habitation  of  a  belted  knight  or  noble  peer.  Yet  the  ancient 
tower  and  most  of  the  walls  of  the  original  house  remain  entire, 
though  the  interior  arrangements  are  made  to  correspond  to  mo- 
dern taste.  Of  this  place,  Sibbald  says,  "  in  King  David  H.'s 
reign  1  find  that  it  belonged  to  Dundemore  of  that  ilk.  After- 
wards it  came  to  the  Lumsdens,  who  had  it  in  1466."  The  fa- 
mily of  Lumsden  possessed  it  till  at  least  the  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  as  is  proved  by  a  fine  monument  erected  in  the  church- 
yard, of  date  1598.  From  the  Lumsdens,  says  the  same  writer, 
it  was  purchased  by  Sir  John  Preston  of  Pennycuik,  President  of 
the  Session  in  King  James  VL's  time,  though  it  would  appear  he 
inherited  it  through  his  lady. 

This  baronet  seems,  along  with  many  of  the  gentlemen  in  his 
neighbourhood,  to  have  keenly  espoused  the  cause  of  Charles  L, 
and  to  have  been  subjected  to  pains  and  penalties  in  consequence. 
For,  within  a  month  after  the  death  of  that  ill-fated  monarch,  we 
find  in  the  record  of  the  kirk-session,  16th  February  1649,  that 
Lord  Balcomie,  Sir  John  Preston  of  Airdrie,  Lawrence  Cunning- 
ham of  Barns,  John  Lindesay  of  Wormistone,  and  a  number  of 
others,  whose  names  are  mentioned,  had  to  appear  before  the  con- 
gregation to  acknowledge  publicly  their  sinful  engagement,  and 
sign  the  covenant.  During  the  seventeenth  century  Airdrie  be- 
came the  property  of  General  Anstruther,  who  greatly  enlarged 
the  house  by  the  addition  of  two  wings,  of  which  the  one  was  a 
large  and  lofty  hall,  with  figures  in  niches,  pictures  on  the  walls^ 


950 


FIFESHIUE. 


massy  chandeliers  for  lights,  and  a  splendid  chimney-piece  of 
white  marble,  which  he  brought  workmen  from  Italy  to  execute. 
After  the  General's  death  the  estate  was  purchased  by  Methven 
Erskine,  Esq.  afterwards  Earl  of  Kellie,  who"  died  there  in  1830. 
Upon  the  Earl's  death  Sir  David  Erskine,  Bart,  succeeded  as  heir 
of  entail.  He  took  down  the  wings  built  by  General  Anstruther, 
and  removed  the  fine  chimney-piece  to  his  own  house  at  Cambo, 
where  it  now  ornaments  the  drawing-room. 

Upon  the  same  estate,  but  a  little  to  the  west  of  Airdrie,  at 
Redwells,  or  Redwalls,  stood  an  ancient  and  extensive  building, 
the  history  of  which  we  have  not  been  able  to  find.  It  was  a 
quadrangular  building,  having  the  ground  apartments  on  every 
side  arched  over  with  hewn  stone,  and  small  apertures  or  loop- 
holes at  regular  distances  from  each  other.  Over  these  there  was 
a  second  story  of  solid  masonry,  containing  accommodation  for  a 
numerous  family,  and  at  one  end  a  well-paved  barn,  with  two  in- 
clined planes  up  to  the  door,  as  if  for  cattle  carrying  up  their  bur- 
dens and  again  descending.  The  barn,  the  last  remain  of  this 
singular  erection,  was  taken  down  a  few  years  ago,  when  the  walls 
were  found  to  be  of  amazing  thickness,  and  of  uncommon  strength. 
A  general  impression  is,  that  it  had  been  a  religious  house  ;  but,  as 
some  of  the  old  charters  convey  the  property  cum  fortaliciis,  others 
think  it  must  have  been  a  kind  of  fortress ;  while  from  the  name, 
Ard-rhi,  or  King's  height.,  a  third  conjecture  is,  that  it  was  a  hunt- 
ing seat  of  royalty. 

Kingsmuir  House,  the  residence  of  George  Francis  Hannay, 
Esq.  is  a  respectable  country  mansion,  which  has  been  greatly 
enlarged,  and  now  forms  a  genteel  and  comfortable  dwelling. 

In  former  times,  the  extensive  property  on  which  this  mansion 
stands,  was  an  o]pen  muir  adjoining  to  the  commonty  of  Crail,  with 
limits  so  ill  defined  as  to  lead  many  to  believe  that  the  neighbour- 
ing proprietors  helped  themselves  to  portions  of  it,  without  leave 
asked  or  given.  However,  after  it  came  into  possession  of  the 
present  family,  buildings  began  to  be  erected,  and  progress  towards 
improvement  made,  so  that  in  1724  the  presbyteryof  St  Andrews 
took  into  consideration,  "  under  whose  ministerial  inspection  the 
dwellers  thereon  should  be,"  and  adjudged  the  inhabitants  nd  inte- 
rim to  be  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  minister  of  Denino.  A 
similar  appointment  took  place  in  1743,  when  a  new  minister  came 
to  that  parish.  Thus  it  continued  till  it  was  found  necessary  to 
rebuild  the  church  and  manse  of  Denino,  when  Mr  Hannay  bemg 


CUAIL. 


951 


called  upon  to  pay  his  proportion  of  the  expenses  either  as  quoad 
sacra  or  quoad  omnia  in  the  parish,  he  refused  all,  and  was  ex- 
empted from  payment,  upon  pleading  that  his  property  formed  a 
portion  of  the  King's  muir  of  Crail.  And  in  18'28,  when  the  seat- 
ing of  the  church  of  Crail  was  enlarged,  Mr  Hannay  attended  the 
meetings  of  heritors,  and  claimed  his  position  as  a  proprietor  in 
the  parish,  together  with  the  right  of  himself  and  his  tenants  to 
be  admitted  to  all  the  privileges  of  parishioners.  His  claim  was 
admitted,  seats  in  the  church  were  allocated  to  him,  and  instruc- 
tions given  to  the  kirk-session  accordingly.  Since  that  date,  there- 
fore, Kingsmuir  has  been  considered  as  an  integral  part  of  the 
parish  of  Crail,  and  its  poor  have  been  supported  out  of  the  com- 
mon funds.  It  may  be  here  observed,  that  in  no  place  in  this 
quarter  has  the  judicious  management  of  a  resident  landlord  been 
more  remarkable  than  in  the  case  of  Kingsmuir.  Within  the  last 
twenty  five  or  thirty  years,  Mr  Hannay  and  liis  tenants  have,  by 
their  skill  and  industry,  brought  hundreds  of  acres,  which  before 
were  considered  a  barren  waste,  into  very  productive  corn  land ; 
and  where,  before  that  date,  neither  man  nor  beast  could  pass 
without  the  risk  of  sticking  in  the  mire,  luxuriant  crops  of  wheat 
now  grow.  This  alteration  Mr  Hannay  has  effected  by  paring, 
burning  and  liming  where  any  heather  grew,  and  by  draining  and 
enriching  the  boggy  land.  The  estate  is  now  nearly  all  under 
cultivation,  and  we  hope  and  trust  that  the  spirited  proprietor  will 
be  spared  to  reap  the  reward  of  all  his  personal  exertion,  and  his 
liberality  towards  his  tenantry. 

Wormistone,  the  residence  of  David  Aytone  Lindesay,  Esq.,  is 
a  fine  old  house  surrounded  by  hard-wood  trees  of  considerable 
size,  and  the  only  place  in  the  parish  in  which,  for  hundreds  of 
years,  the  same  family  have  had  their  abode.  This  property, 
Sibbald  says,  belonged  of  old  to  a  family  of  the  name  of  Spens, 
descended  from  Macduff,  Earl  of  Fife ;  but  in  the  beginning  of 
the  17th  century  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Patrick  Lindesay, 
a  descendant  of  Lord  Lindesay  of  the  Byres.  John  Lindesay, 
son  of  the  first  proprietor  of  this  name,  (as  shown  in  the  account 
of  Airdrie,)  was,  like  Lord  Balcomie  and  the  landholders  in  this 
quarter  in  general,  a  strenuous  supporter  of  Charles  the  First  and 
Second ;  as  his  descendants  afterwards  were  of  King  James  and 
Prince  Charles ;  and  much  the  family  suffered  in  consequence 
of  their  attachment  to  that  infatuated  race.  This  gentleman 
had  to  submit  to  the  degradation  of  appearing  before  the  con- 


952 


FIFESHIRE, 


gregation  within  the  church  of  Crail,  and  there  making  a  public 
disavowal  of  his  adherence  to  the  cause  of  Charles  I.;  and  at  the 
battle  of  Worcester,  in  1651,  one  of  his  sons  was  slain  and  another 
taken  prisoner  while  contending  in  the  royal -army.  Patrick  (the 
son  taken  prisoner)  either  experienced  the  leniency  or  escaped 
the  cruelty  of  Cromwell,  and,  after  the  Restoration,  was  appointed 
commissary  of  St  Andrews,  an  office  which  was  held  by  several  of 
his  descendants  in  succession.  In  the  troubles  of  1715,  this  fa- 
mily appears  to  have  taken  an  active  part  in  favour  of  King  James, 
and  to  have  suffered  in  sub&tance,  if  not  personally;*  and  in  1746, 
Patrick  Lindesay,  son  of  the  then  proprietor,  was  executed  at 
Carlisle  for  having  joined  Prince  Charles,  and  fought  at  the  battle 
of  Culloden.  The  last  proprietor,  Patrick  Lindesay,  Esq.,  com- 
manded a  ship  for  a  number  of  years  in  the  East  Indies,  and  af- 
terwards purchased  the  patrimonial  property  from  his  elder  bro- 
ther, who  had  succeeded  to  the  estate  of  Kilconquhar. 

Kirkmay  House  is  a  handsome  and  spacious  building,  at  a  httle 
distance  from  the  principal  street  of  the  burgh,  with  pleasure 
ground  in  front,  and  a  fine  garden  and  offices  behind.  It  was 
built  in  1817  by  Robert  Inglis,  Esq.  of  Kirkmay,  a  descendant  of 
the  baronets  of  Cramond,  and  is  the  finest  modern  structure  in 
the  parish. 

•  A  letter,  which  the  writer  of  this  found  in  Wormistone  bouse,  together  with  the 
annexed  extracts  from  the  record  of  the  kirk  session,  will  help  to  show  the  state  of 
the  parish  at  the  time.  This  letter  is  addressed  "  To  the  Laird  of  Wormistoun  and 
Heritors  of  the  parish  of  Crail,"  and  is  as  follows:  "  Sir, — T  am  directed  and  order- 
ed hy  the  Earl  of  Marr.  commander  in  chief  of  his  Majesty's  forces  in  this  kingdom, 
to  transmitt  to  one  of  the  principal  heritors  of  each  parish  the  inclosed  order,  and  it 
is  required  that  the  order  so  transmitted  should  be  intimated  to  the  several!  heritors 
and  their  tennents  within  your  parish,  to  the  intent  that  punctuall  obedience  to  my 
Lord  Marr's  orders."  (may  be  given,  we  presume,  has  been  omitted.)  "You 
have  the  inclosed  warrand  sent  you  to  be  published  and  intimatted  accordingly.  If 
payment  of  the  money  imposed  is  refused  or  delayed  after  three  days,  a  party  of 
Highlandnien  are  to  be  employed  to  poind  for  payment:  What  loss  that  will  occa- 
sion to  your  parish  you  may  easily  conceave,  and  that  it  may  be  prevented  is  heartily 
wished  by — Sir,  your  most  humble  servant,  (Signed)  Ja.  Smyth.  Dated  Cupar, 
13th  October  1713. 

Session  Record,  18th  October  1715.  "  There  was  no  sermon  Sabbath  last,  the 
Highland  army  being  here."  Nov.  13.  "  There  was  no  sermon  Sabbath  or  week 
day,  the  town  being  then  bombarded,  and  the  minister  sought  for  to  read  the  Earl 
of  iMarr  his  edict."  Nov.  20.  "  No  sermon  on  Sabbath,  the  Highlanders  being  in 
town."  Nov.  27.  "  The  Minister  forbidden  to  preach  in  the  church,  unless  he  read 
the  liarl  of  Marr  his  edict,  and  pray  for  K.  James.  A  young  man,  Mr  Nivens,  by 
order  of  baillie  Crafurd,  preached  in  the  church  after  the  old  Episcopall  fashion.  Our 
minister  preached  in  his  own  house."  Dec.  6.  "  Sermon  in  the  minister's  house." 
Dec.  11.  "  No  sermon,  being  stopped  by  a  party  of  Highlanders."  Dec.  18.  "  Ser- 
mon in  the  Minister's  house  forenoon,  but  interrupted  afternoon."  Dec.  25.  "  No 
sermon  being  stopped  by  letters,  one  from  baillie  Crawfurd  to  baillie  Robertson, 
another  threatening  letter  to  the  minister."  Jan.  31  1716.  "Nosermon  on  Sun- 
day by  our  minister,  the  Highlandmen  being  here.  One  Mr  Nivens,  ane  Episcopall 
preacher,  possessed  the  kirk  that  day,  and  had  the  English  service." 


CRAIL, 


953 


Heritors. — In  mentioning  the  land-owners  of  the  parish,  it  may 
be  proper  to  mention,  that  for  the  purposes  of  building  or  repair- 
ing church,  manse,  or  school,  one-third  of  the  expense  is  defray- 
ed by  the  corporation  as  superiors  of  the  town  and  burgh  muir. 
The  other  two-thirds  are  paid  by  the  landward  heritors,  according 
to  their  valued  rents,  as  under. 


Heritors. 
Sir  Thomas  Erskine,  Bart. 
J.  Inglis,  Esq.  of  Kirkmay,  . 
General  Graham  Stirling, 
J.  Lindesay,  Esq.  of  Wormistone, 
R.  Anstruther,  Esq.  of  Third  part,  . 
Captain  Corstorphine  of  Pittowie, 
Wm.  Douglas,  Esq.  of  Pinkerton, 
Mrs  Murray,  Crai), 
Geo.  F.  Hannay,  Esq.  of  Kingsmuir, 
Andrew  Brown,  Esq., 
Mrs  Wemyss  of  Denbrae, 
Trustees  of  W.  Glass,  Esq., 
Kilrenny  Fisherman's  Box, 
Kirk-session  of  Crail, 
Mrs  Dr  Chalmers, 
Right  Hon.  Lord  William  Douglas, 
Crail  Sea  Box, 

Mr  R.  Meldrum  of  Peatfield,  . 
Thomas  Landale,  Esq.  S.  S.  C, 
Lord  Blantyre  for  Troustrie  feu, 
Rev.  Bishop  Low,  Pittenweem, 
Town  of  Crail, 
Mr  D.  Henderson, 


Valued  rent  in  Scots  money. 


L.  520S 

14 

3 

.  2545 

15 

0 

1480 

11 

6 

1273 

0 

0 

687 

14 

2 

619 

J2 

7 

583 

8 

1 

305 

5 

1 

200 

0 

0 

193 

6 

4 

131 

12 

1 

125 

9 

8 

114 

0 

0 

64 

13 

4 

58 

0 

0 

57 

0 

0 

55 

10 

7 

55 

6 

8 

47 

0 

8 

28 

13 

4 

18 

0 

0 

10 

13 

4 

6 

13 

4 

Valued  rent  of  the  parish,  .       L.  13,670    0  0 

This  valuation  is,  with  the  exception  of  Kingsmuir,  the  same 
as  the  parish  was  rated  at  in  the  new  valuation  of  Fifeshire  1695; 
and,  though  it  be  very  high  in  comparison  of  many  other  places, 
it  shows  that  the  land  in  this  quarter  must  have  been  early  in  a 
high  state  of  cultivation.  In  1815  the  landward  part  of  the  pa- 
rish was  valued  at  L.  7234  Sterling,  for  property-tax,  and  the 
burgh  L.  1391  Sterling,  making  in  all  L.  8625;  and  it  is  consi- 
dered that  the  real  rental  of  the  parish,  exclusive  of  the  burgh 
and  its  pendicles,  is  now  only  about  L.  10,000. 

Parochial  Registers. —  These  commence,  on  the  15th  April 
1648,  with  a  minute  in  the  beautiful  handwriting  of  Mr  James 
Sharp,  who  was  then  minister  of  the  parish  and  afterwards  Arch- 
bishop of  St  Andrews,  and  are  carried  on,  with  little  interruption, 
to  the  present  day.  The  greatest  blanks  are  from  the  4th  Febru- 
ary 1729  to  the  4th  January  1782,  which  seems  to  have  been  oc- 
casioned by  the  clerk  neglecting  to  copy  from  his  scroll-book,  as 
the  leaves  are  paged  but  not  filled  up  ;  and  from  1779  to  1790. 
They  now  occupy  fourteen  folio  volumes,  and  are  valuable  records 


934 


FIFESHIRE. 


of  the  days  of  other  years ;  for  they  not  only  contain  the  minutes 
of  session  with  an  account  of  its  discipHne;  a  register  of  births, 
baptisms,  and  marriages,  along  with  the  receipts  and  disburse- 
ments for  the  poor,  and  a  list  of  deaths  and  burials ;  but,  by  their 
direct  or  indirect  reference  to  passing  events,  they  tend  to  throw 
light  upon  the  state  of  society  and  the  history  of  the  times.  No 
doubt,  in  perusing  them  we  are  sometimes  astonished  at  the 
powers  which  the  office-bearers  of  a  Protestant  church  seem  to 
have  exercised  over  the  persons  and  properties  of  the  people ; 
but,  if  we  carry  our  minds  back  to  the  rude  state  of  society  which 
then  existed,  and  reflect  on  the  difficulty  which  the  learned  had  to 
instil  moral  and  religious  feelings  into  the  ignorant  population,  we 
must  admit  that  the  men  acted  in  the  manner  that  was  perhaps 
best  suited  to  the  times.    With  these  views  we  might  perhaps  be 
able  to  vindicate  the  conduct  of  the  afterwards  Archbishop  from 
all  reproach  on  account  of  his  severest  acts  of  discipline  while  mi- 
nister of  Crail.    Yet,  even  in  those  days,  his  proceedings  did  not 
escape  the  animadversion  of  his  brethren  ;  for,  at  the  termination 
of  little  more  than  the  tirst  two  years  of  the  record,  we  find  the 
visitors  appending  the  following  not  very  ambiguous  hint:  "  St 
Andrews,  21st  August  1650 — The  Presbyterie,  after  revising 
and  considering  this  book,  do  commend  and  approve  the  proceed- 
ings of  the  session.     Only  they  are  appointed  to  refer  to  the  civil 
magistrate  the  enjoining  of  corporal  punishment  and  pecunial 
mulcts."    One  grand  point  against  which  Mr  Sharp  seems  to 
have  firmly  and  properly  turned  his  face  was  the  desecration  of 
the  Lord's  day ;  and  there  is  no  wonder  that  this  was  necessary, 
considering  that  the  parents  of  the  then  generation  were  accus- 
tomed to  regard  it  as  the  day  of  greatest  relaxation  and  business  ; 
for,  be  it  remembered,  it  was  only  about  sixty  years  before  his  time 
that  an  act  of  the  Scottish  Parliament  was  passed,  abolishing  the 
Sunday  market  in  Crail. 

Though,  then,  the  power  assumed  by  Mr  Sharp  and  his  suc- 
cessors seems  to  us  to  have  been  occasionally  unwarrantable,  when 
we  look  back  to  the  times,  we  will  be  brought  to  admit  that  the 
stretch  of  power  was  for  the  benefit  of  the  people,  and  perhaps 
the  only  way  in  which  the  lower  classes  could  be  brought  to  sub- 
mit to  Divine  or  human  authority. 

Besides  the  registers  above  noticed,  there  are  four  volumes  of 
records  of  burials,  which  commenced  in  1754-  and  are  still  carrying 
on.    These  have  been  kept  by  the  beadles,  and  point  out  the  spot 


CRAIL. 


955 


where  every  body  has  been  laid,  by  stating  in  yards  and  feet  the 
distance  and  direction  of  the  grave  from  certain  fixed  points  about 
the  church  and  churchyard.  For  some  time,  these  records  were 
considered  as  almost  a  sufficient  register  of  deaths.  But,  as  in 
1826,  the  inhabitants  erected  a  vault  in  the  churchyard,  in  which 
corpses  were  to  be  deposited  in  winter  for  three  months  and  in 
summer  about  six  weeks,  and  then  buried ;  the  interval  between 
death  and  burial  was,  in  many  cases,  found  too  long  for  identifying 
a  deceased  individual ;  and  therefore  the  plan  of  keeping  a  se- 
parate register  of  deaths  was  renewed. 

Antiquities. —  Some  of  these  will  be  afterwards  mentioned,  such 
as  the  castle,  the  priory,  and  the  college  ;  to  which  it  may  be  add- 
ed that  a  nunnery  is  said  to  have  existed  near  the  Nethergate  Port, 
of  which  only  an  entrance  now  remains;  but,  at  this  entrance,  human 
bones  were  found,  when  the  street  was  levelled  a  few  years  ago.  In 
the  church,  there  is  an  oblong  Runic  stone,  a  good  deal  mutilated, 
having  cut  upon  it  a  Maltese  cross,  with  figures  like  serpents  over 
it.  "  Below  the  transept,"  as  Leighton  describes  it,  "  on  each 
side  of  the  lower  limb  of  the  cross  a  variety  of  figures  are  sculp- 
tured, now  much  defaced  and  indistinct.  On  the  right  side  is  a 
portion  of  a  horse,' a  wild  boar,  the  legs  of  a  man,  another  horse, 
and  a  ram  ;  on  the  left,  a  figure  seated  in  a  chair  something 
like  a  man,  with  the  head  of  a  bird,  as  seen  on  Egyptian  antiqui- 
ties ;  and,  lower  down,  part  of  a  horse  and  part  of  a  dog." 
Other  relics  of  similar  antiquity  are  believed  to  have  been  in  the 
church,  before  last  repair ;  but  the  workmen,  not  knowing  the 
value  put  upon  them  by  antiquaries,  hewed  them  down  into  pav- 
ing stones.  The  stone  mentioned  in  the  former  Statistical  Ac- 
count as  having  a  cross  rudely  sculptured  on  it,  is  no  doubt  of 
the  same  description.  It  is  the  one  at  which  Sir  William  Hope 
is  reported  to  have  killed  his  challenger.  Many  urns  containing 
calcined  bones  have  been  dug  up  in  different  parts  of  the  parish. 
In  1843,  at  a  place  called  Swinkie  Hill,  probably  Suends  Knoll^ 
no  fewer  than  seven  urns  were  discovered,;  and,  in  April  1845, 
another  was  found  at  Toldrie.  They  seem  to  be  all  of  the  same 
kind  of  material,  though  differing  a  little  in  size.  The  general 
shape  is  tapering  towards  both  ends,  with  various  beltings,  and 
some  with  zig-zag  ornaments.  All  were  found  with  their  mouths 
downwards,  imbedded  in  an  artificial  mound  which  seemed  to  have 
been  erected  over  them.  Some  of  these  urns  may  now  be  seen 
in  the  Museum  at  St  Andrews.    When  levelling  the  ground  ad- 


956 


FIFESHIIIE. 


joining  to  Castle  Haven  several  stone-coffins  were  found  with 
bones  nearly  consumed  ;  but,  about  twenty  years  ago,  about  thirty 
were  discovered  lying  in  regular  rows,  with  bones  so  entire  that  the 
farmer  dug  a  hole  and  buried  them.  The  Iftst  were  upon  the 
estate  of  Wormistone,  near  the  cave  in  which  the  Danes  are  said 
to  have  murdered  King  Constantino  II.  in  the  year  874,  and  may 
have  contained  the  remains  of  persons  killed iit  that  time. 

The  only  other  antiquity  in  the  parish  which  seems  deserving 
of  notice  is  the  Dane^s  Dijke^  a  building  of  dry  stones  of  about 
half  a  mile  in  length,  said  to  have  been  raised  by  the  Danes 
when  they  fled  before  Constantine  II.  after  defeat  at  the  water  of 
Leven  in  874.  This  dike,  at  one  time,  enclosed  a  considerable 
piece  of  ground  of  a  triangular  shape,  having  to  the  east  the  little 
harbour  of  Fifeness,  whence,  it  is  said,  the  Danes  expected  to  es- 
cape in  their  boats,  which  were  then  hovering  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Frith.  A  considerable  portion  of  it  is  now  removed,  the  farm- 
house of  Craighead  being  built  upon  its  site.  From  what  remains 
now  faced  up  on  one  side  as  a  park  fence,  some  have  disputed  the 
accuracy  of  the  tradition,  and  maintained  that  it  was  a  natural, 
not  an  artificial  mound.  This  supposition,  however,  is  disproved 
by  the  fact,  that,  in  removing  a  portion  of  it,  human  bones  were 
found,  and  none  but  broken  and  carried  stones  discovered.  At 
the  one  end,  which  must  have  been  within  the  dike,  is  a  natural 
cave  in  the  rocks,  which  the  appearance  of  lime  at  its  mouth  in- 
dicates to  have  been  extended  by  artificial  means.  This  is  the 
spot  of  the  reputed  murder  of  Constantine.  At  the  other  end, 
but  without  the  dike,  a  place  is  pointed  out  called  the  Long  man's 
grave)  where  the  ashes  of  a  Danish  hero  may  have  been  depo  - 
sited. 

Ill, — Population. 
Partly  owing  to  the  enlargement  of  farms  and  doing  away  with 
cottars,  and  partly  owing  to  fewer  hands  being  employed  in  fish- 
ery, the  population  of  the  town  and  parish  has  been  diminishing 
for  a  great  number  of  years. 

In  1753  the  population  amounted  to  2173 


1710 
1652 
1600 
1S34 


1791, 
1801, 
1811, 
1821, 

1831,  including  Kingsmuir,  1906 
but  excluding  Kingsrauir,  1836 

1841,  including  do.  .  '906 

but  excluding  do.  .  1765 

Decrease  since  1753,  .  408 


CRAIL. 


957 


Statistics  of  the  burgh  in  1841.— Houses  inhabited,  '261;  houses 
tiot  inhabited,  23.    Males,  520;  females,  707;  total,  1227. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  in  the  landward  342  males  and 
337  females,  of  whom  66  males  and  75  females  were  upon  Kings- 
nauir. 

Marriages  in  1844,  13;  births,  52;  deaths,  42;  increase,  10. 

The  food  of  the  lower  classes  is  chiefly  farinaceous  and  vege- 
table. Yet  butcher-meat  is  used  to  some  extent  in  every  family ; 
for- there  are  few  householders  who  do  not  every  year  feed  a  pig 
or  two  for  domestic  use. 

The  people  on  the  whole  enjoy  in  a  tolerable  degree  the  com- 
forts and  advantages  of  society,  and  are  industrious  and  content- 
ed. They  are  justly  entitled  to  be  denominated  an  enlightened, 
intelligent,  and  well- principled  community.  In  their  daily  inter- 
course, they  are  kind  and  friendly,  and  in  their  general  conduct 
obliging  and  civil. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture  and  Rural  Economy. — In  agriculture  almost  every 
species  of  modern  improvement  has  been  tried,  with  the  greatest 
activity  and  attention,  so  as  to  bring  the  land  to  the  highest  state 
of  cultivation  and  productiveness,  and  in  very  few  places  have  the 
effects  of  draining  and  trenching  been  more  conspicuous  than  here. 
The  places  which  old  people  recollect  of,  fifty  or  sixty  years  ago, 
as  dangerous  for  man  or  beast  to  tread  on  from  their  boggy  na- 
ture, are  now  bearing  luxuriant  crops  of  corn — the  rough  and  stony 
bowks  which  intersected  almost  every  field  and  yielded  a  scanty 
support  to  the  cows,  can  no  longer  be  distinguished  from  the  sur- 
rounding soil.  Nor  are  the  improvements  on  the  land  more  re- 
markable than  the  change  in  the  implements  of  husbandry.  At 
the  period  referred  to,  no  farmer  was  reckoned  respectable  who  had 
not  two  or  four  oxen  with  a  couple  of  horses  and  two  men  to  con- 
duct the  slow  motion  of  each  cumbrous  plough.  Now  1 15  ploughs 
are  at  work  in  the  parish,  each  drawn  by  a  couple  of  horses  guided 
by  a  single  man  ; — then  wains,  or  large  carts  with  a  pole  to  which 
two  oxen  were  yoked  with  two  horses  as  leaders,  formed  the  only 
mode  of  carrying  manure  to  the  field  or  produce  to  the  market; 
now  not  a  wain  is  to  be  seen  nor  an  ox  in  harness ; — then  the  cattle 
fed  upon  the  grass  that  grew  from  the  roots  of  the  quicken  or 
couch  grass  upon  the  fauch  or  fallow  land  ; — now  labourers  may 
be  seen  picking  up  and  carrying  away  in  their  baskets  every  por- 
tion of  the  roots  that  had  escaped  the  harrow ; — then,  too,  the 


958 


FII''ESHIRE. 


ploughman  had  to  start  at  cock-crowing  to  prepare  the  daily  straw 
for  his  cattle  ;  now  the  sound  of  the  flail  is  seldom  heard,  as  every 
farmer  has  his  thrashing-mill.  The  first  two-horse  plough  in  the 
parish  was  used  upon  Pittowie  in  1783-4,  and  conducted  by  one 
who  still  lives  and  enjoys  a  good  old  age.  The  first  thrashing- 
mill  was  erected  in  1801. 

The  greater  number  of  farms  have  been  furrow  drained  ;  and 
with  the  exception  of  the  quantity  already  mentioned  as  being 
under  wood,  and  about  sixty  acres,  chiefly  sea  braes  and  links  used 
as  pasture,  the  whole  land  in  the  parish  is  under  tillage. 

Near  the  coast,  sea- weed  is  much  used  as  a  manure  which  an- 
swers well,  so  that  some  pieces  of  ground  which  seldom  get  a 
change,  produce  as  good  crops  as  any  lands  adjoining.  Lime  and 
stable  dung  are  of  course  universal ;  bone-dust,  guano,  soda,  &c. 
are  also  more  or  less  employed. 

The  rotation  of  crops  dilfer  according  to  the  soil  and  situation, 
but  the  generality  follow  the  four  or  six  rotation.  In  the  former 
case,  the  crops  are,  1st,  potatoes  or  turnips  ;  Sd,  wheat  or  barley; 
3d,  beans  or  grass  ;  4th,  wheat  or  oats.  In  the  latter,  1st,  fallow  ; 
2d,  wheat;  3d,  beans;  4th,  barley;  5th,  grass;  6th,  oats;  and 
then  recommence  with  fallow,  potatoes,  or  turnips.  In  conse- 
quence, it  will  be  seen  that  very  little  land  lies  fallow,  not  above 
one  acre  out  of  twenty  ;  while  potatoes  and  grass  may  be  reckoned 
each  one  in  six;  turnips  and  beans  each  one  in  twelve;  the  re- 
mainder in  wheat,  barley  and  oats.  Bere  or  bigg  is  very  seldom 
grown. 

In  a  parish  containing  such  a  variety  of  soil,  and  one  acre  in 
one  locality  producing  more  than  two  in  another,  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  ascertain  the  actual  amount  of  produce;  but  the  fol- 
lowing may  be  regarded  as  an  average  per  Scotch  acre.  Potatoes, 
35  bolls;  turnips,  20  tons;  beans,  4  quarters;  wheat,  4^  quarters; 
barley,  6  quarters;  oats,  6^  quarters;  grass,  175  stones. 

Stock. — There  are  not  many  cattle  bred  in  this  parish,  but  such 
as  are,  consist  chiefly  of  the  Fife  and  short-horned  breed.  A 
good  many  calves  are  purchased  and  brought  from  other  places ; 
and  a  number  of  two  and  three  year  old  beasts  are  bought  at  the 
public  markets,  partly  for  the  purpose  of  eating  the  straw  and  tur- 
nips to  make  manure,  and  partly  to  fatten  for  the  butcher;  and 
from  the  great  attention  paid,  they  generally  bring  very  high  prices. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  quality  and  keeping  of  horses,  as 
well  as  to  their  harness,  &c.    Only  one  or  two  farmers  keep  any 


CUAIL. 


959 


flocks  of  sheep,  and  these  they  generally  bring  from  the  High- 
lands to  fatten  for  the  market. 

IVat/es. —  Young  unmarried  men  living  about  the  farm  get  from 
L.9  to  L.1'2  a-year,  according  to  their  age  and  qualifications. 
Married  farm-servants  have  from  L.IO  to  L.  12,  with  a  house  and 
garden  ;  10  pecks  of  potatoes  planted,  6^  bolls  of  meal,  half  a  boll 
of  pease  or  wheat,  a  pint  of  sweet  or  U  of  skimmed  milk  a-day, 
coals  driven,  and  liberty  to  feed  a  pig  with  their  own  potatoes,— 
all  of  which  are  estimated  at  about  L.25  a-year.  Female  servants 
living  in  their  masters'  houses  get  from  L.5  to  L.6  a-year.  Other 
field  labourers  are,  males,  9s.  a- week  ;  females,  4s.  a-week  or  8d. 
a-day ;  but  in  harvest  the  daily  wages  are  higher. 

In  very  few  places,  are  the  farm-steadings  so  good  and  the  ac- 
commodation for  man  and  beast  so  ample,  as  they  are  in  general 
in  this  parish,  which  proves  the  good  taste  of  the  tenants  and  the 
liberality  of  the  landlords.  Leases  are  in  general  for  nineteen 
years. 

v. — Pakochial  Economy. 

Means  of  Communication. — Only  one  mail  arrives  here  every 
day,  bringing  letters  from  every  direction,  which  often  occasions 
serious  inconvenience,  as  letters  from  St  Andrews  and  other  towns 
only  a  few  miles  off  are  received  here  the  day  after  they  were 
written,  and  the  answer  fares  the  same.  This  might  be  remedied 
by  the  post-office  re-establishing  the  runner  between  Crail  and 
St  Andrews,  as  it  was  to  J829.  By  this  means  letters  written  in 
that  city  could  be  received  here  within  two  hours  of  the  time  when 
they  were  posted.  There  are  turnpike  roads  crossing  the  parish 
in  every  direction,  and  the  commutation  roads  are  in  good  keeping. 

A  light  van  or  waggon  has,  for  many  years,  run  from  this  to  St . 
Andrews  every  lawful  day,  carrying  passengers  and  parcels.  A 
parcel  carrier  goes  to  and  returns  from  Anstruther  in  the  same 
manner.  A  carrier  goes  twice  a-week  to  Edinburgh.  There  are 
also  conveyances  to  Dundee  and  Cupar  for  goods.  By  sea  the 
conveyance  of  passengers  and  goods  is  still  more  complete,  as  the 
Aberdeen,  Montrose,  and  Dundee  steamers  call  off  the  harbour, 
thus  giving  always  one,  and  often  three  opportunities  a-day,  of 
getting  to  Edinburgh,  and,  on  their  return,  a  conveyance  to  the 
respective  ports  to  which  they  belong. 

Royal  Burgh  of  CraiL — As  a  town,  Crail  is  of  great  antiquity, 
"and  mentioned  by  the  Scottish  historians  as  a  place  of  some  con- 
sequence so  early  as  the  beginning  or  middle  of  the  ninth  century. 


960 


FIFESHIRE. 


As  in  days  of  other  years,  it  consists  chiefly  of  two  parallel  streets  ex- 
tending along  the  shore  from  east  to  west,  intersected  by  others  of 
inferior  note.  Many  of  the  houses  are  large  and  of  ancient  appear- 
ance, giving  evidence  of  the  grandeur  of  forme^  days,  when  some  of 
the  neighbouring  proprietors  of  land  had  either  their  house  in  town, 
or  one  to  which  the  dowager  might  retire  when  the  old  laird  died  and 
the  son  came  into  possession  of  the  estate.  At  one  period  the  tho- 
roughfares seem  to  have  been  considerably  interrupted  by  houses 
projecting  upon  them  at  right  angles  here  and  there ;  but  these 
have  been  mostly  bought  up  by  the  corporation  and  removed ;  so 
that  there  are  very  few  towns  of  its  size  in  which  more  spacious 
streets  are  to  be  found.  These  are  now  lighted  with  gas,  and  in  ge- 
neral kept  very  clean.  There  was  a  royal  residence  within  the  town, 
upon  an  elevation  overlooking  the  present  harbour,  of  which  some 
vestiges  still  remain  ;  but  at  what  time  it  was  erected,  cannot  now 
be  ascertained,  nor  by  how  many  crowned  heads  it  was  occupied. 
However,  the  historians  of  the  day  agree  in  admitting  that  David 
the  First  lived  in  it  about  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century. 
Sibbald  says  he  died  here,  but  others  maintain  that  he  died  at 
Carlisle,  where  he  had  a  residence  as  Duke  of  Cumberland,  and 
that  the  mistake  arose  in  consequence  of  the  similarity  of  names, 
Carayl  and  Carlisle. 

It  is  not  unlikely  that  this  monarch  or  some  of  his  successors 
might  have  conferred  some  important  privileges  upon  the  town  in 
which  he  occasionally  dwelt,  but  of  that  we  have  only  this  pre- 
sumptive evidence,  that  when  Robert  the  Bruce  granted  a  charter 
to  the  burgh,  which  is  dated  at  Stirling  12th  June  1310,  he  con- 
firmed to  the  burgesses  and  community  privileges  which  they  had 
^njoyed  under  former  kings,  and  exempted  them  from  all  jurisdic- 
tion vicecomitis  de  Fife.  This  charter,  with  several  new  grants, 
was  afterwards  ratified  by  Robert  II.,  Queen  Mary,  James  VI. 
and  Charles  I.  By  these  charters  the  privileges  of  the  burgh, 
extended  not  only  over  the  town  and  common  muir,  but  also  from 
the  middle  of  the  water  of  Leven  to  the  water  of  Puttekin,  (now 
called  Pitmilly  burn),  with  a  right  to  the  fishings,  tolls,  anchorages, 
&c.  in  all  the  harbours  and  creeks  within  these  bounds,  being  an 
extent  of  coast  of  about  twenty-five  miles.  Yet,  though  all  these 
rights  were  confirmed  by  Charles  I.  in  his  deed  executed  at 
Whitehall  on  the  20th  April  1635,  there  seem  to  have  been  some 
heartburnings  excited,  and  a  desire  expressed  by  many  to  get  free 
from  the  jurisdiction  of  Crail  long  before  that  date.    For  in  1387, 


CRAIL.  961 

when  Anstruther  was  erected  into  a  royal  burgh,  we  find  in  the 
proceedings  of  Parliament  that  James  Geddy,  burgess  of  Carrail, 
appeared  before  the  liing  and  three  estates,  and  in  name  and  be- 
half of  the  same  burgh  solemnly  protested  "  that  the  erection, 
creation,  and  confirmation  of  the  burgh  of  Anstruther  in  ane  free 
burgh  royal  suld  on  nawys  be  hurtfull  or  prejudicial!  to  the  said 
burgh  of  Carrail  anent  the  richtis,  liberties,  and  privileges  of  the 
same."  About  the  same  year,  the  bailies  and  council  of  Crail  are 
understood  to  have  let  in  feu-farm  the  customs,  anchorages,  &c. 
of  Elie  to  Thomas  Dischinton  of  Ardross,  through  whom  they 
have  been  transmitted  to  the  family  of  Anstruther;  but  the  feu- 
duty  has  not  been  paid  for  many  years.  The  towns  of  Pittenween 
and  Anstruther  appear  also  to  have  complained  of  the  jurisdiction 
of  Crail  as  a  grievance,  and  threatened  to  resist  payment ;  but  the 
dispute  was  settled  by  arbitration,  and  both  towns  continue  to  pay  a 
trifling  sum  yearly  in  name  of  reddendo,  in  consequence  of  which  a 
free  trade  is  established.  A  similar  contract  seems  to  have  been 
made  with  the  late  Thomas  Earl  of  Kellie,  about  1810,  for  the 
customs,  anchorages,  &c.  of  Fifeness,  Old  Haiks  and  Kingsbarns, 
and  thus  the  ancient  jurisdiction  of  the  burgh  has  been  much 
curtailed.  Still  the  town  has  a  revenue  of  nearly  three  hundred 
pounds  a-year,  which  answers  all  the  purposes  of  the  corporation. 
The  ends  of  the  streets  leading  out  of  the  town  still  retain  the  name 
of  ports,  which  would  lead  one  to  infer  that  at  some  period  they 
had  been  actually  shut  up  with  gates ;  and  that  they  were  so,  is 
evident  not  only  from  the  fact,  that  an  act  of  Parliament  was  passed 
in  1503,  wherein  it  is  statute  and  ordained,  that  all  towns  and 
ports  on  the  sea  side,  sik  as  Leith,  Inverkeithing,  Kinghorn,  Dysart, 
Crale,  and  others,  ware  their  common  gudes  on  the  walls  of  the 
town  to  the  sea  side,  with  ports  of  lime  and  stane but  many 
people  are  alive  who  recollect  of  the  ports  being  taken  down.  The  * 
burgh  had  also  the  liberty  of  holding  a  free  market  upon  Sunday, 
which,  by  an  act  passed  in  Parliament  in  1587,  was  changed  from 
Sunday  to  Saturday,  and  all  markets  between  the  waters  of  Leven 
and  Puttekin  forbidden  on"  any  other  day.  In  proof  of  this  we 
may  mention  that  the  following  entry  is  in  the  session  record  of  St 
Andrews  :— "April  18,  1582.  A  great  number  of  drapers,  fleshers, 
and  merchants,  accused  of  keeping  the  market  of  Crail  on  the  Sab- 
bath; prohibited  from  repeating  the  offence  under  pain  of  exclu- 
sion, and  debarring  of  themselves,  their  wives,  bairns  and  servants 

FIFE.  3  p 


9(J2 


FIFESIilRE. 


from  all  benefit  of  the  kirk  in  time  coming,  viz.  baptism,  the 
Lord's  supper,  and  marriage." 

Before  and  up  to  the  beginning  of  last  century,  Crail  was  a 
great  station  for  the  herring  fishery.  To  this" many  resorted  from 
different  parts  of  the  country,  particularly  from  Angus  and  Aber- 
deen shires,  who  were  supplied  with  nets  and  other  conveniences 
by  the  inhabitants  for  a  stipulated  premium.  Over  the  multitude 
of  boats  that  then  assembled  in  the  Frith,  a  person  (generally  a 
lawyer  from  Edinburgh)  was  appointed  by  the  Lord  High  Admi- 
ral to  preside,  under  the  title  of  Admiral-depute  for  the  east  of 
Fife.  This  officer  had  power  of  trying  all  offences  committed  by 
persons  engaged  in  the  fishing,  and  of  fining  or  otherwise  punish- 
ing those  found  guilty.  He  had  also  a  vessel  called  the  admiral's 
boat,  which  was  employed  in  regulating  the  fishery,  and  fired  a 
gun  for  announcing  the  hours  of  beginning  or  ending  the  fishing, 
particularly  on  the  Mondays  and  Saturday  nights  ;  for  which  each 
boat  had  to  pay  a  certain  sum  as  admiral's  dues. 

Since  then,  however,  the  fishing  has  gradually  declined,  and  was 
nearly  lost  sight  of  upon  the  Fife  coast ;  and  the  office,  as  well  as 
officer,  is  entirely  unknown.  But  within  the  last  few  years,  the 
fish  have  returned  to  their  wonted  haunts,  and  many  who  from 
their  early  years  had  been  in  the  habit  of  joining  the  herring  fish- 
ery at  Wick  or  other  places  in  the  north,  have  staid  at  home  and 
reaped  the  reward  of  their  labour.  Yet  Crail  has  not  resumed 
its  place  as  a  fishing  station — for  last  year  there  were  only  twelve 
boats  belonging  to  the  harbour  engaged  in  the  trade.  In  former 
times  Crail,  Kilrenny,  the  two  Anstruthers,  and  Pittenweem  had 
the  privilege  of  returning  a  member  to  Parliament;  but,  since  the 
Reform  Act  was  passed,  St  Andrews  (the  returning  burgh)  and 
Cupar  have  been  associated  with  them ;  and  these,  being  larger 
towns,  swallow  up  in  a  great  measure  all  the  consequence  of  the 
minor  burghs  at  a  disputed  election.  The  government  of  the 
town  is  vested  in  three  bailies  and  a  treasurer,  with  seventeen  other 
members  of  town-council.  There  are  seven  incorporated  trades. 
In  the  centre  of  the  town,  there  is  a  very  neat  town-hall  and  a  lock- 
up-house, with  two  cells  under  charge  of  the  police.  The  harbour 
is  small,  not  very  safe,  and  difficult  of  access  to  the  small  vessels 
that  frequent  it ;  but  Room  or  the  old  harbour,  which  is  only  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  present,  might  be  easily 
converted  into  a  haven  capable  of  containing  a  large  fleet,  and 
would,  it  is  said,  have  nearly  thirty  feet  of  water  at  spring  tides. 


CRAIL. 


963 


It  is  sheltered  from  all  winds  but  the  south,  and  may  be  entered 
by  vessels  of  small  draught  of  water,  from  any  point,  at  an  hour 
and  a  quarter's  flood.  The  corporation  have  voted  a  sum  of  money 
to  defray  the  expense  of  having  it  surveyed  with  the  view  of  bring- 
ing it  under  the  notice  of  Government,  as  a  harbour  of  refuge ;  and 
should  it  be  so  constructed,  it  would  prove  a  benefit  not  only  to 
the  traders  on  the  Forth,  but  also  to  the  whole  east  coast  of  Scot- 
land. 

Unless  in  importing  coals,  and  exporting  the  produce  of  the 
land,  the  port  is  not  much  frequented  by  shipping.  However, 
twelve  vessels  belong  to  it,  with  a  register  of  530  tons.  In  po- 
tatoes alone,  several  vessels  have  been  employed  for  a  portion  of 
the  year,  carrying  them  to  Newcastle,  London,  and  elsewhere  ; 
above  3000  tons  having  been  exported  in  one  season.  This  crop 
has  fallen  off  considerably  for  some  time,  and,  in  consequence, 
last  year's  export  was  only  1800  tons.  Fishing  is  not  carried  on 
to  the  same  extent  as  in  some  of  the  neighbouring  places,  such  as 
Cellardyke.  Yet  a  number  of  respectable  men  contrive  to  make 
a  living  by  it.  The  kinds  of  fish  which  they  most  commonly 
bring  ashore  are,  cod,  ling,  halibut,  haddock,  rock  or  red  cod, 
cole-fish,  dog-fish,  cat-fish,  flounder,  turbot,  skate,  and  occasion- 
ally mackerel.  Sand-eels  and  shrimps  are  gathered  among  the 
sarid  as  the  tide  recedes.  The  principal  employment  of  the  fish- 
ermen here  is  in  catching  shell-fish,  such  as  lobsters  and  crabs, 
but  in  these  the  quantity  seems  to  be  rapidly  diminishing;  for, 
when  Mr  Bell  wrote  the  former  Statistical  Account,  he  states  the 
number  of  lobsters  sent  annually  to  the  London  market  to  be 
about  20,000  or  25,000,  and  that  ten  years  before  there  was 
double  the  number ;  whereas,  though  the  same  trade  be  still  con- 
tinued, the  number  sent  to  London  last  year  was  only  about  4000. 
During  the  same  year,  (1844,)  after  supplying  the  home  con- 
sumption, between  3000  and  4000  dozens  of  crabs  were  sent  to 
the  markets  of  Dundee  and  Edinburgh.  Within  the  last  few 
years,  a  new  trade  in  shell-fish  has  been  opened  with  London, 
viz.  in  periwinkles  or  wilks,  of  which  no  fewer  than  50  tons  were 
sent  from  Craii  in  1844.  The  town-council  has  also  let  the  sal- 
mon-fishing to  the  south  of  the  town,  and,  a  few  days  ago,  the 
tacksman  set  his  nets  and  was  successful.  He  therefore  antici- 
pates that  the  salmon-fishing  will  be  advantageous  to  himself,  and 
a  new  source  of  revenue  to  the  town. 

in  the  burgh,  no  manufactures  are  carried  on,  nor  any  trade  of 


964 


FIFESHIRE. 


importance,  except  what  is  required  for  the  neighbourhood  ;  but 
there  are  a  post-office,  with  a  daily  arrival  of  the  mail,  a  number 
of  shops  at  which  any  of  the  necessaries  of  life  can  be  purchased, 
a  good  butcher-market,  and  a  brewery.  Fourteen  persons  are 
licensed  to  sell  spirits,  and  two  gentlemen  act  as  medical  practi- 
tioners.   The  Parliamentary  and  municipal  constituency  is  51. 

The  town  is  ten  miles  south-east  by  east  from  St  Andrews, 
and  thirty  north  north-east  from  Edinburgh. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — It  is  generally  believed  that  Crail  was  at 
one  time  the  seat  of  a  priory  dedicated  to  St  Rufus,  and,  when 
the  last  Statistical  Account  was  written,  a  ruinous  gable  with 
Gothic  windows  was  standing,  and  bore  the  name  of  the  Prior 
Walls.  That  gable  was  thrown  down  by  the  sea  about  the  year 
1801,  and  there  now  only  remain  some  of  the  foundations  of  the 
outworks,  to  point  out  where  it  once  stood.  The  adjoining  ground, 
however,  retains  the  name  of  the  Prior's  Croft,  and  a  well  near 
the  old  building  is  still  called  the  Briery  or  Priory  WelU  As 
this  is  not  mentioned  among  the  religious  houses  suppressed  at 
the  Reformation,  some  have  doubted  the  common  tradition  ;  but 
Leighton,  in  his  Fife  Illustrated,  states  that,  according  to  General 
Hutton,  there  is  an  old  manuscript  inventory  among  the  Harleian 
manuscripts  in  the  British  Museum,  in  which  the  following  char- 
ter is  mentioned  : — "  To  the  prior  of  Crail,  of  the  second  teinds 
of  the  lands  between  the  waters  of  Neithe  and  Nith."  There 
was  also  a  chapel  within  the  Castle  of  Crail,  dedicated  to  St  Rufe, 
which  had  teinds  belonging  to  it,  both  parsonage  and  vicarage, 
but  its  name  is  now  only  to  be  found  in  ancient  charters. 

The  present  church  is  so  old  that  many  believe  it  to  be  the 
one  in  which  David  I.  worshipped  when  he  lived  in  Crail ;  and, 
although  its  beauty  has  been  much  destroyed  by  the  alterations  it 
has  undergone,  it  is  still  a  fine  specimen  of  pointed  architecture. 
It  consists  of  a  central  nave,  with  aisles  divided  by  a  row  of  pillars 
on  each  side,  and,  at  the  east  end,  a  portion  of  what  originally 
formed  the  choir,  in  which  daily  service  was  performed.  The 
choir  was  for  a  number  of  years  shut  up;  but,  in  1828,  it  was 
re-opened,  and  seated  for  the  sake  of  additional  accommodation 
to  the  parishioners.  In  all,  the  church  will  now  accommodate 
nearly  1 000  persons,  being  about  the  legal  allowance  for  the  po- 
pulation. This  church,  which,  with  the  teinds,  both  parsonage 
and  vicarage,  anciently  belonged  to  the  priory  of  Haddington, 
was,  in  the  year  1517,  (upon  the  petition  and  endowment  of  Sir 


CRAIL. 


965 


William  Myreton,  vicar  of  Lathrisk,  and  Janet,  prioress  of  Had- 
dington,) erected  into  a  collegiate  church,  with  a  provost,  sacrist, 
ten  prebendaries,  and  a  chorister.  The  provost  had  a  right  to 
the  vicarage  tithes,  and  six  of  the  prebendaries  had  annuities, 
payable  out  of  certain  lands  and  tenements  of  houses  lying  in  the 
town  and  neighbourhood,  mortified  for  that  purpose  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Myreton,  who  is  called  the  founder  of  the  College  Kirk  of 
Crail.  At  that  time,  besides  the  high  altar,  which  was  richly  en- 
dowed, there  were  eight  other  altarages  within  the  church  dedi- 
cated to  the  Virgin  Mary,  to  St  Catharine,  to  St  Michael,  to  St 
James,  to  St  John  the  Baptist,  to  St  Stephen,  to  St  John  the 
Evangelist,  and  to  St  Nicholas.* 

For  many  years  after  the  college  was  established,  the  church 
retained  its  connection  with  the  priory  of  Haddington  ;  for  though 
King  James  VI.,  in  15S6-7,  made  over  to  the  town  of  Crail  the 
place  called  the  college,  with  the  college  kirk,  and  all  emoluments 
belonging  to  the  provost  and  prebends  thereof,  with  the  advoca- 
tion, donation,  and  right  of  patronage,  it  was  not  till  1594  that  an 
act  of  Parliament  was  passed  disjoining  the  church  and  parish 
from  the  priory,  and  establishing  Crail  as  an  independent  rectory. 

By  this  act,  one-third  part  of  the  fruits  was  assigned  to  the  mi- 
nister serving  the  cure,  another  to  the  new  college  of  St  Andrews 
for  the  sustentation  of  students  of  theology,  and  the  remaining 
third  to  the  college  of  Edinburgh,  for  students  of  philosophy, — 
Lord  Lindsay  being  declared  patron  of  the  parsonage  and  bursa- 
ries. 

"  About  the  time  of  the  Reformation,"  says  Mr  Bell,  in  the 
former  Statistical  Account,  "  Lord  Lindsay  seems  to  have  obtain- 
ed from  the  prioress  and  convent  of  Haddington  a  tack  of  the 
teinds  both  parsonage  and  vicarage,  for  the  yearly  rent  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty-five  merks.  The  patronage  was  vested  in  Sir 
William  Murray  of  Balvaird,  who  presented  Mr  Murray  to  the 
benefice.  He  then  resigned  the  patronage  into  the  king's  hands 
in  favour  of  John  Lord  Lindsay,  who,  in  1609,  obtained  from  Mr 
Murray  a  confirmation  of  the  former  tack  of  the  teinds  for  three 
lives  and  three  nineteen  years." 

"  The  town  of  Crail,"  says  the  same  writer,  "  having  by  several 
charters  obtained  a  grant  of  the  collegiate  church  and  its  revenues, 
with  the  right  of  patronage,  &c.  disputes  began  to  arise  between 

*  A  list  of  the  ' '  ornaments  and  sylver  work  in  the  College  Kyrk  of  Carale,"  is 
contained  in  the  chartulary  now  in  the  Advocates'  Library. 


966 


FIFESHIRE. 


it  and  Lord  Lindsay  concerning  their  respective  rights.  To  pre- 
vent law-suits,  a  compromise  was  entered  into  in  1630,  by  which 
the  town's  right  to  the  collegiate  church  and  place  called  the  col- 
lege, with  the  right  of  patronage,  was  confirmed ;  but  its  claim  to 
emolument  was  expressly  restricted  to  the  tithe  fish,  and  the  rents, 
fees,  and  duties  which  had  been  the  especial  property  of  the  pro- 
vost and  prebendaries.  The  parsonage  and  vicarage  tithes,  ex- 
cepting the  tithe  fish,  were  declared  to  remain  with  his  Lordship 
and  his  successors.  In  1774-6,  the  question  concerning  the 
right  of  patronage  to  the  parish  church  was  tried.  By  an  interlo- 
cutor of  the  Lord  Ordinary,  it  was  given  against  the  town,  and  the 
Earl  of  Crawford,  as  successor  to  Lord  Lindesay,  considered  as 
undoubted  patron.  The  Earl  of  Glasgow  is  now  patron,  as  repre- 
senting the  Earl  of  Crawford. 

It  is  proper  to  mention  that  in  this  church  John  Knox  preached 
and  excited  the  people  to  begin  the  work  of  abolishing  the  monu- 
ments of  idolatry  in  Fife.  In  reference  to  this,  Grierson,  the  his- 
torian of  St  Andrews,  says,  "  John  Knox,  on  Sunday  the  29th  of 
May  1559,  preached  a  sermon  at  the  town  of  Crail,  in  which  he 
represented  the  favourers  of  Popery  as  guilty  of  the  heinous  sin  of 
idolatry,  and  their  churches  as  containing  the  monuments  of  it, 
namely,  pictures  and  images.  The  effect  of  his  eloquence  was 
such,  that  the  populace  immediately  rose,  and  in  a  very  short 
time  demolished  all  the  churches  in  Crail,  Anstruther,  and  the 
other  adjacent  towns  along  the  sea  coast.  They  then  proceeded 
to  St  Andrews,  where  the  preacher  delivered  another  sermon  of 
the  same  sort  on  Sunday  the  5th  of  June;  and  the  effect  of  it  was 
similar  to  that  which  had  before  taken  place  at  Crail,  for  the  m- 
furiated  mob  set  instantly  about  demolishing  the  superb  cathedral 
church,  plundered  both  the  monasteries  of  the  Black  and  Grey  friars, 
and  razed  these  edifices  to  the  ground." 

Spottiswood  says,  "  John  Knox  preached  a  serman  at  Crail,  and 
persuaded  the  expulsion  of  the  French.  The  people  were  so 
moved  by  his  exercitation,  that  they  immediately  set  about  pulling 
down  altars,  images,  and  every  thing  which  had  been  abused  to 
idolatry  ;  and  did  the  same  next  day  at  Anstruther,  and  from 
thence  came  to  St  Andrews." 

Besides  the  religious  houses  already  mentioned,  there  was,  no 
doubt,  a  cell  or  chapel  dedicated  to  St  Minin  or  Monan  at 
Kilminning  farm  ;  the  corn- yard  of  which  is  still  full  of  graves, 
like  a  regular  burying-ground. 


CRAIL. 


967 


Within  the  town  there  is  a  congregation  of  the  Associate  Sy- 
nod, who  have  a  church  and  a  oiinister's  house  enclosed  in  a  gar- 
den. The  members  of  the  Free  Protesting  Church  are  aho  build- 
ing a  place  of  worship. 

Attendance  at  church  is  remarkably  good,  and  the  ordinary 
number  of  communicants  about  800. 

The  manse,  which  is  within  the  burgh  at  the  entry  to  the 
church,  with  a  small  garden  attached  to  it,  was  purchased  by  the 
kirk-session  in  1637  for  3300  merks,  and  mortified  to  the  theti 
minister  and  his  successors  in  office.  The  house,  thus  bought, 
remained  entire  till  1789,  when  the  greater  part  of  it  was  taken 
down  and  the  present  manse  erected  in  its  stead,  having  still  a 
portion  of  the  old  building  for  bed-rooms  and  other  convenien- 
ces ;  but  in  1829  the  last  remains  of  the  old  house  were  swept 
away,  cellars,  &c.  erected  on  its  site,  and  a  third  storey  added  to 
what  was  then  called  the  new  manse.  As  it  now  stands,  it  is  a 
good  commodious  dwelling,  and  has  every  convenience  that  a  fa- 
mily may  desire.  The  offices  are  very  poor,  consisting  only  of  an 
old  stable  and  a  gig-house ;  but  the  minister  is  allowed  a  sum  of 
money  to  pay  the  rent  of  additional  accommodation,  till  a  proper 
situation  can  be  found  for  building  a  suitable  steading. 

The  glebe  was  designed  in  1658,  out  of  lands  which  once  be- 
longed to  the  priory  of  Haddington.  It  measures  a  little  more 
than  four  Scotch  acres.  A  small  park,  not  quite  an  acre  in  ex- 
tent, called  the  vicar's  garden,  and  believed  to  have  belonged  to 
that  official,  is  also  attached  to  the  living;  and  in  1799  a  field 
of  nearly  three  acres  was  obtained  as  a  grass  glebe  in  exchange 
for  seven  and  a  half  acres  of  the  links  of  Sauchope,  which  were 
designed  by  the  presbytery.  For  property-tax  the  manse  and 
glebe  are  valued  at  L.  64  per  annum. 

The  stipend,  as  settled  in  1834,  is  152  bolls  of  meal,  110  quar- 
ters, 5  bushels,  1  peck,  1  gallon,  1^  quart  of  barley,  and  L.8,  6s.  8d. 
for  communion  elements. 

Ministers  of  the  Parish. — Upon  the  elevation  of  Mr  Sharp  to 
the  archbishopric  of  St  Andrews,  Dr  Alexander  Edwards,  mi- 
nister of  Denino,  was  transported  to  the  charge  in  1662,  and  con- 
tinued to  discharge  the  duties  of  it  till  his  death,  10th  May  1684. 
Dr  Edwards  was  succeeded  by  Mr  Alexander  Lesly,  minister  of 
Ceres,*  who  was  deposed  in  1689  for  non-conformity.    He  was 

'•  The  following  extract  from  the  record  of  tlic  kirk-scssion  shows  the  mode  of 
procedure  in  those  days  :— "  September  14th  1684.  Dr  John  Wood,  minister  of  ICil. 
rennie,  did  preach,  and  Mr  Alexander  Lesly,  minister  of  Ceres,  being  presented  to 


968 


FIFESHIRE. 


the  last  Episcopal  rector  of  the  parish.    After  his  ejection  he 
got  a  chapel  erected  at  the  west  end  of  the  town,  part  of  which 
still  remains  as  a  wright's  shop,  behind  the  gas  work,  in  which  he 
continued  to  officiate  till  his  death  in  1707,    Mr  William  Har- 
die  was  then  ordained  minister  of  Crail  by  the  presbyteries  of  St 
Andrews  and  Cupar — the  session  record  says,  "by  preaching, 
prayer,  and  imposition  of  the  hands  of  the  presbyteries — by  deli- 
vering to  him  the  Bible,  the  bell  tow,  and  the  key  of  the  kirk." 
Mr  Hardie  removed  to  St  Andrews  in  1701.    Mr  Robert  Fair- 
weather,  minister  of  Carnbee,  was  then  elected  by  the  people 
14th  August  1701,  was  inducted  by  the  presbytery,  and  continued 
till  his  death  in  1738.    But  Mr  Fairweather  having  become  old 
and  infirm,  Mr  Patrick  Glas  was  ordained  as  his  assistant  and 
successor,  24th  December  1734,  and  continued  to  be  minister  of 
the  parish  till  1787.    After  his  death  Mr  Robert  Glendinning 
succeeded,  but  lived  only  a  short  time.    Mr  Andrew  Bell  was  or- 
dained 6th  May  1790,  and  dying  in  1828,  was  succeeded  by  the 
present  incumbent. 

Education. — In  1542,  a  grammar  school  was  established  here 
by  Mr  David  Bowman,  one  of  the  prebendaries  of  the  college, 
who  mortified  a  house  and  lands  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
teacher,  and  left  the  patronage,  after  his  death,  to  the  town-coun- 
cil of  the  burgh,  unless  a  qualified  person  of  his  own  name  should 
apply,  who  was  to  be  preferred.*  How  this  provision  came  to 
be  alienated  from  its  purpose,  we  have  been  unable  to  discover  j 
but,  from  time  immemorial,  the  sum  of  L,12  a-year  has  been  paid 
to  the  teacher  out  of  the  town's  common  good.  In  1821,  the 
heritors  and  council  agreed  to  erect  it  into  a  parochial  school, 
the  former  paying  the  maximum  salary  to  the  rector,  the  latter 
continuing  their  L.12  payment,  under  certain  conditions,  to  an 

the  cure  and  benefice  of  this  parish  by  Thomas  Moncrieff  of  that  ilk,  as  undoubted 
patron  of  this  kirk,  and  having  a  right  thereto  from  the  Earl  of  Crawford,  there  was 
ane  edict  granted  by  John  Bishop  of  Edinburgh,  vicar-general  of  the  see  of  St  An- 
drews,  (being  in  the  vacancie  of  the  see  of  St  Andrew's,)  in  his  favour,  which  was 
served  and  read  this  day  in  face  of  the  congregation  by  the  said  Dr  John  Wood,  and 
is  to  be  called  at  the  Trinitie  church  of  St  Andrews  upon  Wednesday  come  eight 
days  next,  at  ten  o'clock,"  . 

*  Sfe  deed  of  endowment  and  mortification  in  the  town's  charter-chest.  As  con- 
nected with. the  church,  schools,  and  records,  it  may  be  mentioned  here,  that  Mt 
John  Preston  of  Drumrack,  a  branch  of  the  Airdrie  family  of  that  name,  presented 
to  the  church  the  handsome  silver  basin  and  ewer  used  at  baptism  ;  that  the  Earl  of 
Crawford,  out  of  the  vacant  stipend  of  1789,  gave  the  session  L.20  for  education, 
which  is  niorlififd  in  the  town's  hand  at  five  per  cent.  ;  and  that  a  lady,  who  wished 
her  name  to  be  concealed,  gave,  through  the  late  Mr  Bell,  L.50  for  the  same  i)ur- 
pose,  which  is  now  lying  at  bank  interest. 


CRAIL. 


969' 


usher.  The  rector,  therefore,  has  the  maximum  salary,  and  the 
fees  average  about  L.40  a-year.  He  is  also  kirk-trieasurer  and 
session-clerk.  At  this  school,  all  the  ordinary  branches  of  educa- 
tion are  taught,  and  frequently  the  higher  branches  of  mathe- 
matics, with  Greek  and  Latin,  French  and  Italian.  The  number 
attending  is  93. 

There  are  other  three  schools  in  the  parish,  two  of  them  being 
within  the  burgh,  and  one  upon  Kingsmuir,  at  all  of  which  the 
ordinary  branches  are  taught.  One  of  the  burgh  teachers  has  a 
free  school,  and  a  small  salary  allowed  him  by  the  town ;  the 
other  is  upon  his  own  adventure.  At  the  two,  there  are  about 
190  scholars.  The  Kingsmuir  school  was  erected  by  subscription 
in  1843,  and  is  attended  by  about  50  children. 

In  both  the  endowed  schools  the  teachers  are  bound  to  edu- 
cate a  certain  number  gratuitously,  and  thus  there  are  none  above 
six  years  of  age  who  do  not  at  least  know  the  letters. 

Poor. — The  kirk  session  funds  arise  from  the  rent  of  about 
six  acres  of  land,  rents  of  seats  in  the  church  given  by  some  of  the 
heritors,  dues  upon  marriages  when  the  bride  is  in  the  parish,  col- 
lections at  the  church  doors,  and  some  small  feu-duties.  Last  year 
the  number  of  poor  upon  the  roll  was  thirty-one,  who  each  received 
from  a  shilling  to  two  shillings  and  sixpence  a-week  according  to 
their  circumstances — some  received  assistance  in  paying  their 
rents — every  applicant  received  clothing,  and  in  many  cases  per- 
sons not  upon  the  roll  received  assistance  in  money.  Two  persons 
were  also  maintained  in  a  lunatic  asylum,  and  the  deficiency  in 
the  session's  funds  was  made  up  by  a  voluntary  assessment  among 
the  heritors.  Besides  what  was  bestowed  by  the  session,  the  in- 
terest arising  from  a  share  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland's  stock,  be- 
queathed by  the  late  Mrs  Coldstream,  was  divided  among  sixteen, 
in  terms  of  her  deed,  and  ninety  persons  received  a  cart  load  of 
coals  each  by  voluntary  subscription. 

The  poor  here  are  better  provided  for,  on  the  whole,  than  they 
are  in  most  places. 


May  1845. 


PARISH  OF  KILRENNY. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  DICKSON,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Extenty  Boundaries,  8fc. — The  name  of  this  parish,  as  found  in 
old  manuscripts,  is  variously  spelt,  as  Cibnnnie,  Kylrimiye,  Kilriny, 
&c.  In  the  former  Statistical  Account  it  is  spelt  Kilrenney, 
while  the  general  spelling  at  present  is  Kilrenny.  It  has  been 
stated  in  Swan's  Views  of  Fife  that  "  the  name  is  derived  from  St 
Ninian,  and  that  as  Ninian  is  still  popularized  into  Ringan,  so 
Kilringan  could  easily  be  corrupted  into  Kilrenny."  The  more 
probable  derivation,  however,  is  that  given  in  the  former  Statisti- 
cal Account.  "  The  name  of  this  parish  seems  to  be  derived  from  the 
saint  to  whom  the  church  was  dedicated,  viz.  St  Irenaeus,  Bishop 
of  Lyons,  whose  fame  for  piety  was  at  that  time  great  throughout 
Christendom.  What  serves  to  confirm  this  origin  of  the  name  is, 
that  the  fishermen,  who  have  marked  out  the  steeple  of  this 
church  for  a  meath  or  mark  to  direct  them  at  sea,  call  it  St  Irnie 
to  this  day  ;  and  the  estate  which  lies  close  by  the  church  is  call- 
ed Irniehill;  but,  by  the  transposition  of  the  letter  i,  Rinnie-Hill. 
What  adds  to  the  probability  of  this  interpretation,  is  a  tradition 
still  existing  here,  that  the  devotees  at  Anstruther,  who  could  not 
see  the  church  of  Kilrenny  till  they  travelled  up  the  rising  ground 
to  what  they  called  the  Hill,  then  pulled  off  their  bonnets,  fell  on 
their  knees,  crossed  themselves,  and  prayed  to  St  Irnie." 

The  figure  of  the  parish  may  be  described  rather  as  rectangu- 
lar than  circular,  and  the  extent  of  it  is  computed  at  about  3^ 
miles  in  length,  and  nearly  2^  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  Crail ;  on  the  south  by  the  Frith  of  Forth ;  on  the  west  by 
East  and  West  Anstruther  and  Carnbee  ;  and  on  the  north,  by 
Carnbee  and  Crail.  Being  bounded  by  the  sea  on  the  south, 
the  o-round  rises  to  the  north,  by  a  gentle  acclivity,  unbroken  by 
any  eminence  deserving  of  notice  ;  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  fer- 
tile and  highly  cultivated  slope.  It  is  divided  by  hedges  and 
dikes  into  a  variety  of  enclosures,  all  of  which  are  under  the 

3 


KILRENNY. 


971 


plough,  with  the  exception  of  about  10  or  12  acres  of  common, 
belonging  to  the  towns  of  Kilrenny  and  Cellardyke,  and  lying  in 
a  state  of  nature,  being  partly  covered  with  furze,  and  partly  soured 
with  water.  There  are  also  a  few  acres  along  the  shore  con- 
stantly kept  in  pasture,  as  they  cannot  be  brought  under  the  ope- 
ration of  the  plough.  There  are  likewise  some  acres  under  plan- 
tation, but  not  to  any  great  extent. 

All  along  the  coast  the  shore  is  covered  with  large  masses  of 
sandstone  blocks.  The  stratum  of  sandstone  projects  over  an- 
other of  shale  or  indurated  clay  ;  so  that  by  the  action  of  the  wa- 
ter upon  the  clay,  it  has  been  gradually  removed,  and  these  masses 
of  the  superincumbent  rock  have  thus  been  broken  down. 

There  are  some  remarkable  caves  or  coves,  as  they  are  some- 
times called,  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  parish  and  close 
by  the  shore.  They  are  considerably  above  high  water-mark,  but 
the  rocks,  in  their  outward  form,  have  every  appearance  of  having 
been  at  one  time  under  the  action  of  water ;  while  within  the  caves 
there  are  still  further  indications  of  such  having  been  the  case, 
by  the  rocks  being  drilled  in  many  places  by  the  Pholas.  They 
stand  at  present  several  feet  above  high  water-mark,  and  rise 
to  the  height  of  30  or  40  feet.  There  are  likewise  to  be  seen 
in  the  interior  of  the  caves,  artificial  cuttings  and  chiselled 
crosses,  which  indicate  that  at  some  period  they  have  been  used 
as  the  abode  of  men. 

Some  human  bones  were  lately  found,  when  removing  a  portion 
of  earth  from  the  interior  of  the  caves  ;  and  a  friend  on  hearing 
of  this  circumstance,  has  suggested  the  idea  that  they  may  have 
been  the  resort  of  the  leper,  or  the  hermit,  or  the  persecuted  in 
evil  times. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  they  would  be  resorted  to  by  smugglers, 
at  the  period  when  smuggling  was  carried  on  to  a  very  great  ex- 
tent in  the  East  Neuk  of  Fife.  They  were  at  a  later  period  used 
as  the  outhouses  of  a  small  farm  ;  and  they  are  still  used  as  a  place 
of  shelter  for  cattle.  There  is  no  tradition  regarding  them,  ex- 
cept that  there  is  a  communication  below  ground  between  them 
and  the  house  of  Barnsmuir,  situated  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  where  it  is  said  that  a  piper  was  heard  playing  beneath  the 
hearth  stone  of  the  kitchen  ;  but  these  days  of  delusion  have  passed 
away. 

The  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  along  the  coast  is  rather 
mild  than  otherwise,  so  that  the  snow  in  winter  seldom  remains- 


972 


FIFESHIRE. 


long  undissolved,  and  from  the  extent  to  which  draining  has  of  late 
been  carried,  the  climate  may  be  represented  as  dry  and  healthy. 

The  diseases  are  such  as  are  common  to  the  district,  and  in 
the  town  of  Cellardyke,  where  there  is  a  great  population  closely 
crowded  together,  fever  is  often  prevalent. 

Geology. — The  strata  laid  open  along  the  shore  exhibit  the 
common  coal  formation  of  sandstone,  limestone,  clay  ironstone, 
shale,  and  coal,  and  contain  many  interesting  fossil  remains. 
The  direction  and  dip  of  the  strata  vary  much.  The  usual  dip 
is  from  20°  to  25°.  About  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  the  direc- 
tion in  which  the  strata  are  found  is  towards  the  south,  while,  as 
you  proceed  eastward,  it  inclines  towards  the  south-east.  Along 
the  shore  are  found  clay  ironstone  balls  with  coprolites,  and  many 
specimens  of  the  Variolaria  Ficoides  of  Sternberg ;  and  toward  the 
east  end  of  the  parish,  considerably  within  high  water  mark,  are 
found  in  the  sandstone  strata,  a  number  of  fossil  trees,  projecting 
upwards  at  an  angle  of  70°  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  and 
placed  at  distances  from  each  other,  as  if  growing  in  a  forest. 

In  the  limestone  quarry  at  Cornceres,  about  half  a  mile  inland, 
the  dip  of  the  stratum  was  found  in  the  working  to  be  almost  per- 
pendicular, while  at  other  times  it  inclined  to  the  north-east.  This 
limestone  resembles  that  of  Burdiehouse,  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Edinburgh,  with  similar  fossil  remains,  such  as  fresh-water  fish, 
plants,  &c.    In  reference  to  this  quarry,  the  Rev.  Dr  Anderson  of 
Newburgh,  who  has  long  paid  great  attention  to  the  subject  of  geo- 
logy, thus  writes  in  his  Geological  Account  of  Fife,  published  along 
with  Swan's  Views  of  Fife  :  "  While  these  pages  have  been  passing 
through  the  press,  I  have  been  successful  in  finding  the  fresh  wa- 
ter, or  bituminous  limestone,  in  the  south-eastern  extremity  of 
the  county.    I  first  met  with  it  in  the  parish  of  Kilrenny  on  the 
shore,  and  likewise  to  the  eastward  about  a  mile,  in  the  parish  of 
Crail.    It  is  wrought  inland  in  both  parishes,  at  Cornceres  and 
at  Sypsies.    Here  it  lies  in  small  trough-shaped  basins,  and  is 
much  disturbed  by  underlying  dikes,  which  traverse  in  every  di- 
rection the  whole  of  this  district.    Along  the  shore  the  deposit  is 
about  six  feet  thick,  and  dips  to  the  south-east  at  an  angle  of  20°. 
It  rests  upon  a  thin  bed  of  coal  of  about  one  foot  and  a  half  in 
thickness." 

"  Scales,  coprolites,  and  vegetable  impressions  are  in  the 
greatest  profusion,  and  no  doubt  can  be  entertained,  from  its  mi- 
neralogical  characters,  as  well  as  its  organic  contents,  of  its  being 


KILKENNY. 


973 


a  portion  of  the  interesting  deposit  which  ranges  westward  from 
Pettycur." 

The  soil  in  the  parish  varies  considerably.  Along  the  coast,  al- 
though containing  a  strong  mixture  of  clay,  it  is  rich  and  produc- 
tive, while  in  the  higher  parts,  as  it  rests  on  strong  clayey  subsoil, 
it  is  more  retentive  of  moisture,  and,  in  wet  seasons,  less  produc- 
tive. 

It  is  astonishing,  however,  to  observe  the  vast  change  and  con- 
sequent improvement  which  have  taken  place  within  the  last  few 
years,  from  the  skill  and  enterprise  which  the  tenants  have  dis- 
played in  draining  their  farms. 

Zoology. — There  are  not  many  of  the  rarer  animals  to  be  found 
in  this  locality.  In  winter  a  great  many  birds  flock  to  the  shore 
which  are  not  to  be  found  in  summer.  Among  the  feathered  tribe 
frequenting  this  locality  may  be  mentioned  pheasants,  the  golden 
plover,  starling,  and  the  golden-crested  wren,  though  but  rarely 
seen  ;  while  there  is  no  lack  of  common  birds. 

In  the  woods  of  Innergelly,  some  of  the  deer  species,  ( Cervus 
capreolus),  have  been  observed,  but  they  are  not  numerous.  The 
most  interesting  class  of  animals,  both  as  to  number  and  import- 
ance, in  an  economical  point  of  view,  is  the  6sh  found  in  the 
Frith  of  Forth.    The  following  are  found  in  abundance  :  Cod, 
ling,  haddock,  skate,  flounders,  and  halibut :  turbot  very  rarely. 
Besides  these,  which  are  of  great  importance,  as  affording  a 
cheap  and  wholesome  diet,  there  is  the  dog-fish,  which  is  very 
abundant  at  times,  and  very  destructive  to  the  haddocks  when 
caught  upon  the  line,  but  which  is  usefid  as  aftbrding  a  certain 
portion  of  oil,  and  still  more  so  to  the  farmer,  as  a  rich  manure 
when  formed  into  a  compost  with  earth.    There  is  also  the  cat- 
fish, which  certainly  has  not  a  very  seemly  appearance,  but  is 
highly  relished  by  some  when  dressed  as  fish  and  sauce.  The 
shell-fish  which  are  caught  along  the  shore  are  the  lobster,  the 
parten,  or  common  crab,  the  wilk,  and  the  limpet.    Of  late  great 
quantities  of  wilks  have  been  gathered  from  the  rocks  and  sent 
to  the  London  market.    There  are  no  oysters  or  mussels  to  be 
found  along  the  shore. 

Botany. — As  the  parish  does  not  rise  to  any  great  altitude  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  the  plants  along  the  sea-side,  and  the  JlgcBf 
or  plants  growing  among  the  rocks  from  low  to  high  water  level, 
are  those  which  chiefly  deserve  notice.    Of  these  the  following 


974 


FIFESHIRE. 


species  may  be  mentioned,  some  of  which  are  useful  in  medicine, 
and  others  in  agriculture  and  domestic  economy. 


Sedum  anslicuin 


Arenaria  marina 

 peploides 

Glaux  isaritima 
Statice  armeria 
Aster  tripolium 
Ligusticum  scoticum 
Chenopodium  maritimum 

 ■  ■  Bonus  Hen- 

ricus 

Triglochin  maritimum 
Cochlearia  officinalis 


Fucus  esculentus 

  saccharinus 

  digitatus 

  loreus 

  filum 

  vesiculosus 

  nodosus 

  serratus 


Nasturtium  officinale 
Artemisia  absinthium 
Plantago  maritima 

  coronopus 

Astragalus  hypoglottis 
Medicago  lupulina 
Papaver  Rhoeas 
CEnanthe  crocata 
Conium  maculatum 
Orchis  mascula 

 maculata 

Iris  pseudacorus 
Geranium  pratense 

Fucus  canaliculatus 

  siliquosus 

  crispus 

  mammilosus 

  palmatus 

  sanguineus 

  alatus 

  plumosus 


Primula  veris 
IVJalva  sylvcstris 
Poa  maritima 

  iluitans 

Briza  media 
Triticum  junceum 
Alopecurus  geniculatus 
Phleum  pratense 
Cynosurus  cristatus 
Holcus  lanatus 
Jiincus  compressus 


Fucus  coccineus 

  dentatus 

  pinnatitidus 

  opuntia 

Ulva  lactuca 
 compressa 


There  is  but  a  small  proportion  of  the  land  in  the  parish  com- 
paratively speaking,  occupied  with  plantation,  and  that  small  por- 
tion is  gradually  diminishing.  This  may  be  partly  accounted  for 
by  the  proximity  of  the  parish  to  the  sea,  and  still  more  satisfac- 
torily by  the  ground  being  so  very  valuable  for  the  raising  of  grain 
crops.  The  only  estates  on  which  there  is  some  extent  of  plan- 
tation, are  Innergelly  and  Thirdpart,  the  latter  of  which  consists 
chiefly  of  belts. 

II. — Civil  History. 
From  the  local  Reports  of  Commissioners  of  Municipal  Corpo- 
rations in  Scotland  in  1833,  the  following  report  is  taken  : — "  Kil- 
renny,  which  consists  of  Upper  and  Nether  Kilrennies,  is  not, 
strictly  speaking,  a  royal  burgh  ;  it  has  no  crown  charter.  In 
1672  the  magistrates  of  Kilrenny  presented  a  supplication  to  Par- 
liament, setting  forth  that  it  never  was  a  royal  burgh,  and  praying 
that  it  might  no  more  be  esteemed  such,  but  continue  a  burgh  of 
regality."  This  supplication  was  remitted  to  the  Privy  Council, 
and  it  appears  from  the  minutes  of  Parliament  that  it  was  "  or- 


•  The  synonyms  of  the  Algce,  according  to  later  botanists,  corresponding  to  the 
Linnaean  names  given,  may  also  here  be  adjoined.  Alaria  esailciita,  Laminaria  sacrha. 
rim.,  L.  digitata,  Himanthalia  lorea,  Chorda  Jilnm,  Fucus  vesiculosus,  F.  nodosvs,  F. 
aerralus,  F.  canaliculatus,  Halidrys  siliquosa,  Chondrus  crUpus,  Ch.  mammilosus,  Ji/io- 
domenia  palmata,  Delesseria  sangniuea,  D.  alata,  Plilota  pluviosa,  Plocamiiim  coeei- 
neum,  Laurencia  pinnatifida,  Catenella  opuntia^  Ulva  lactuca,  Enteromor pha  compressa. 


KILKENNY. 


975 


dered  that  the  burgh  of  Kilrenny  be  expunged  out  of  the  rolls, 
the  same  being  now  no  royal  burgh  by  Act  of  Parliament."" 

"  Kilrenny  holds  feu  of  a  subject,  Mr  Bethune,  one  of  whose 
predecessors  represented  the  town  in  the  meeting  of  Estates  in 
1689.  It  continued  afterwards  to  send  a  representative  to  Par- 
liament without  being  objected  to,  and  was  inadvertently  classed 
by  the  Articles  of  the  Union  in  a  set  of  five  burghs  sending  a 
representative  to  Parliament." 

The  same  report  states  "  that  Nether  Kilrenny  has  a  harbour  for 
fishing  boats — for  the  improvement  of  which  L.  1200  were  ad- 
vanced by  the  Board  of  Trustees  for  the  improvement  of  fisheries, 
and  L.500  were  raised  by  the  town — which  have  been  expended 
in  building  new  quays;  but  they  have  not  been  judiciously  placed, 
and  the  harbour  is  said  to  have  been  rather  injured  than  improved 
by  their  erection." 

"  Kilrenny  is  in  schedule  F.  of  the  Burgh  Reform  Act.  By  the 
old  sett  of  the  burgh  the  old  council  elected  the  new  council.  A 
change  was,  in  1819,  made  in  the  sett  of  the  burgh.  It  was  the 
practice  formerly  to  elect  the  bailies  from  three  leets,  called  first, 
second,  and  third  magistrate's  leets — one  being  chosen  out  of  each 
leet ;  but  in  that  year  the  classification  was  abolished,  and  the 
three  bailies  were  chosen  out  of  a  general  leet  of  nine  persons, 
which  change  occasioned  the  disfranchisement  of  the  burgh  in 
1828;  and  the  town  has  ever  since  been  under  the  management 
of  managers  appointed  by  the  Court  of  Session,  as  is  usual  in  such 
cases,  till  the  constitution  of  the  burgh  is  restored,  or  a  new  one 
granted. 

The  harbour  of  Cellardyke  is  in  all  the  charters  designated 
Skin-fast  haven. 

Eminent  Men. — James  Melville,  nephew  of  the  famous  An- 
drew Melville,  was  appointed  minister  of  the  parish  in  1586.  Sir 
James  Lumsdaine  of  Innergelly  was  a  major-general  under  Gusta- 
vus  Adolphus,  King  of  Sweden.  He  afterwards  served  in  the 
Scottish  army,  and  was  taken  prisoner  by  Cromwell  at  the  battle 
of  Dunbar. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners  are  Sir  Windham  Car- 
niichael  Anstruther,  of  Anstruther  and  Carmichael,  Bart. ;  Ro- 
bert Anstruther,  Esq.  of  Thirdpart ;  the  Rev.  Edwin  Sandys 
Lumsdaine  of  Innergelly  ;  Andrew  Johnston,  Esq.  of  Rennyhill ; 
Lord  William  R.  K.  Douglas  of  Denino  ;  Mrs  Drinkwater  Be- 
thune of  Balfour,  and  Sir  Thomas  Erskine  of  Cambo,  Bart.  To 


976 


riFESHIRE. 


the  great  loss  of  the  parish  none  of  the  land-owners  are  resident. 
The  houses  of  Innergelly  and  Rennyhill  are  the  only  residences 
in  the  parish,  but  have  not  been  occupied  by  their  proprietors 
for  two  or  three  years.  They  are  modern  buildings,  and  afford 
good  accommodation. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  oldest  parochial  register  is  dated 
1586,  and  commences  about  the  time  when  James  Melville  en- 
tered on  the  work  of  the  ministry  at  Kilrenny.  The  registers 
appear  to  have  been  pretty  correctly  kept ;  but  some  of  them 
are  so  tarnished  and  chafed  as  to  render  dates  often  uncertain 
and  the  reading  imperfect.  About  1580,  and  several  years  af- 
terwards, one  minister,  William  Clarke,  and  after  him  James 
Melville,  had  the  superintendence  of  West  Anstruther,  Pitten- 
weem,  Abercrombie,  and  Kilrenny,  officiating  at  each  in  rotation, 
the  parishes  having  their  respective  kirk-sessions ;  and  when,  on 
any  particular  occasion,  they  met  in  a  body,  it  was  called  the 
Assembly  ;  but  their  transactions  were  marked  in  the  same  book. 
Latterly,  and  for  a  considerable  period,  they  have  been  kept  with 
great  accuracy. 

Antiquities. — On  a  slightly  elevated  portion  of  ground  to  the 
west  of  the  village  of  Kilrenny,  there  is  an  upright  stone  with 
some  rude  engraving  somewhat  resembling  the  mariner's  com- 
pass, called  Skeith,  or  Skeigh,  or  Scathe  stone;  but  there  is 
no  satisfactory  tradition  concerning  it.  It  may  possibly  have  been 
erected  to  commemorate  some  conflict  which  took  place  during 
the  invasion  of  the  East  Neuk  by  the  Danes.  There  is  another 
upright  stone  on  the  farm  of  East  Pitcorthie,  about  five  or  six 
feet  above  ground,  but  when  or  on  what  occasion  erected  is  not 
known.  It  bears  no  date  and  no  characters,  and  there  is  no  tra- 
dition concerning  it. 

There  is  another  eminence  to  the  eastward  of  the  village,  which 
is  called  Capelochy  Castle,  near  to  the  shore.  And  it  has  been 
conjectured  from  the  appearance  of  the  low  land  on  the  north 
side,  bearing  marks  of  having  been  under  water,  that  the  emi- 
nence, at  one  time,  had  been  surrounded  by  water,  and  hence  its 
name,  Capelochy  Castle. 

There  is  a  farm  adjoining,  which  bears  the  name  of  Caiplie, 
which  is  probably  a  corruption  of  Capelochy.  The  ground  which 
the  castle  occupied  is  now  under  the  plough,  and  very  lately  an 
immense  quantity  of  stones  were  dug  up,  and  among  them  was 


KILKENNY. 


977 


found,  not  exactly  a  stone  coffin,  but  stones  set  upon  edge,  within 
which  some  human  bones  were  discovered. 

The  old  house  of  Thirdpart,  now  demolished,  was  long  the  fa- 
mily residence  of  the  Scots  of  Scotstarvet ;  and  Newbarns  or 
Westbarns,  in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Crail,  was  the  seat  of  the 
Cunninghams ;  in  this  locality  is  laid  the  scene  of  Drummond  of 
Hawthornden's  humorous  poem,  entitled  Polemo-Middinia. 

III. — Population. 

Amount  of  population  in  1790,  .  .  1086 

1801,  .  .  .  1043 

1811,  .  .  1233 

1821,  .  .  .  1494 

1831,  .  .  1705 

1841,  .  .  .  2039 

In  1836  there  were  58  births,  15  marriages,  23  deaths  in  the  parish. 

1837  57  9  54 

1838  55  11  37 

1839  51  26  28 

1840  53  26  42 

1841  66  20  39 

1842  53  27  SO 

Total  in  seven  years      393  134  273 

Yearly  average  for 
seven  years 

In  1790  the  population  of  the  parish,  as  taken  by  the  Rev.  Mr 
Beat,  was  261  families,  1086  inhabitants. 

In  1841,  according  to  the  census  taken  by  Mr  Bonthron, 
schoolmaster, 


56 


19 


There  were  in  Kilrenny, 
Cellardyke, 
Landward, 

In  the  whole  parish. 


Inhabited 
Houses. 
47 
197 
67 


Families.   Males.  Females. 


311 


58 

101 

132 

318 

690 

796 

69 

161 

159 

445 

952 

1087 

Total  number 
of  persons. 
233 
1486 
320 


2039 


There  were  4  houses  building  in  the  parish 

14  uninhabited  houses 
156  persons  employed  in  agriculture 

97  persons  employed  in  handicraft 
282  fishermen  and  sailors 

64  female  servants 

38  independent  individuals 


There  were  under      7  years  of  age 
between  7  and  15 
15  and  30 
30  and  50 
50  and  70 
above  70 


In  Kilrenny.  Cellardyke.  Landward. 


Total 


51 
40 
46 
48 
38 
10 

233 


FIFE. 


322 
291 
363 
322 
145 
43 

1486 
3  ft 


66 
62 
90 
75 
25 
2 


320 


Total. 
439 
393 
499 
445 
208 
55 

2039 


978 


FIl'ESHlKK. 


IV. — Industhy. 
Agriculture.— The  number  of  acres  in  the  parish  may  be  esti- 
mated at  about  2400,  the  greater  proportion,  of  which  is  under 
the  plough,  and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  There  may  be 
from  twenty  to  thirty  acres  which  do  not  seem  at  any  time  to  have 
been  cultivated,  but  remain  partly  in  pasture  and  partly  in  a  state 
of  nature.  For  a  very  Considerable  number  of  years,  a  regular 
system  of  rotation  in  farming  has  been  followed,  and  varies  upon 
different  farms.  A  five,  or  six,  or  seven  years'  shift  is  the  rota- 
tion generally  adopted  ;  and  the  principal  crops  are,  wheat,  beans, 
barley,  oats,  hay  or  pasture,  potatoes,  and  turnip.  Along  the 
coast  the  land  is  richer  and  more  productive  ;  but,  taking  the 
whole  parish,  the  average  produce  of  an  acre  may  be  estimated 
at  8  bolls  for  wheat  and  beans,  and  for  oats  and  barley,  from  6 
to  7  bolls.  There  is  comparatively  little  of  the  land  in  pasture, 
as  the  farmers  think  it  more  advantageous  to  take  parks  in  the 
higher  parts  of  the  neighbouring  parishes  for  rearing  their  young 
stock.  A  vast  improvement  has  of  late  taken  place,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  great  extent  to  which  draining  has  been  carried. 
This  is  effected  sometimes  with  stones  and  sometimes  with  tiles  ; 
but,  in  both  cases,  the  beneficial  effects  are  speedily  made  mani- 
fest.   The  average  rent  per  acre  may  be  about  L.2,  10s. 

Live-stock. — There  are  few  sheep  kept  in  the  parish,  and  the 
prevailing  breed  of  cattle  is  what  is  called  the  Fife  breed. 

Leases. — Leases  are  generally  granted  for  nineteen  years,  and 
the  farmers  being  possessed  both  of  capital  and  intelligence,  are 
ever  ready  to  adopt  the  most  improved  implements  of  husbandry, 
and  any  new  suggestion  with  regard  to  the  mode  of  culture. 
The  great  proportion  of  the  steadings  are  ample  and  commodious, 
with  excellent  dwelling-houses  for  the  tenants. 

Wages.— The  wages  of  masons,  carpenters,  &c.  range  about 
2s.  6d.  per  day,  while  the  day-labourer  earns  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  6d.  ; 
and  the  women,  who  are  generally  employed  during  the  summer 
in  hoeing,  &c.,  receive  8d.  per  day,  and  during  harvest,  they  are 
allowed  from  L.l,  10s.  to  L.l,  15s.,  with  dinner,  which  consists 
of  beer  and  bread,  with  a  lippy  of  meal  for  their  supper. 

Limestone,  with  thin  seams  of  coal,  has  for  a  long  period 
been  wrought  upon  the  estates  of  Innergelly  and  Thirdpart;  and 
ironstone  has  also  been  found  along  the  shore  within  high  water 
mark.    The  best  freestone  quarry  for  building  purposes  is  to  be 
\  4 


KILKENNY. 


979 


found  on  the  farm  of  Blacklaws,  belonging  to  Mrs  Driiikvvater 
Bethune. 

Fisheries. — The  fishery  in  Cellardyke  is  carried  on  to  a  very 
great  extent.    The  fishermen  are  active,  hardy,  and  enterprising, 
and  prosecute  their  lawful  employment  oftentimes  under  circum- 
stances of  great  danger.    There  are  about  100  large  boats,  vary- 
ing in  tonnage  from  13  to  18  tons,  employed  during  the  summer 
season  in  the  herring  fishery,  each  of  these  being  manned  with  three 
or  four  regular  fishermen  and  one  or  two  halfdealsmen,  as  they 
are  called,  who  have  no  nets,  but  merely  assist  in  rowing,  and  haul- 
ing the  nets;  or  if  they  have  not  the  full  complement  of  men,  two 
or  three  strong  boys  are  sometimes  taken.    It  was  the  usual  prac- 
tice for  the  whole  of  the  fishermen  to  go  to  Peterhead  and  Wick 
to  prosecute  the  fishing,  without  a  single  boat  being  left  to  try  if 
herring  could  be  got  in  the  Frith  of  Forth ;  but  in  1837  or  1838 
some  of  the  fishermen  remained  at  home,  and  were  very  success- 
ful ;  and  since  that  period  a  great  number  of  boats  have  been  era- 
ployed  at  home  with  various  success,  and  during  some  seasons, 
have  been  more  successful  than  those  which  went  to  the  north. 
At  times  the  boats  were  brought  into  the  harbour  with  from  forty 
to  eighty  crans ;  but  when  the  lierrings  are  so  abundant,  the  fish- 
ery continues  only  for  a  few  days.    When  the  fishermen  get  200 
crans,  they  account  such  a  fair  fishing,  but  many  do  not  attain  to 
that  number.    During  a  successful  fishing  season  lately,  one  or 
two  boats  got  about  400  crans  or  barrels,  and  it  is  believed  that 
one  caught  the  extraordinary  number  of  500  crans.    Their  agree- 
ment with  thecurers  is  generally  from  9s.  to  lis.  per  cran,  with  a 
certain  allowance  of  whisky.  It  is  not,  however,  all  gain  that  is  made 
by  the  fishing,  as  it  is  attended  with  a  very  considerable  expense. 
The  boats,  when  thoroughly  fitted  for  going  to  sea  at  first,  cost 
about  L.  100,  and  require  a  considerable  sum  to  keep  them  in  re- 
pair ;  while  the  nets,  when  ready  for  use,  cost  about  L.5  each,  and 
the  number  taken  by  each  boat  varies  from  fourteen  to  twenty. 
The  herring  fishing  is  prosecuted  for  a  short  lime  in  winter  during  the 
months  of  January  and  February,  and  in  autumn  during  the  months 
of  August  and  September.    The  other  months  are  occupied  by  the 
fishermen  in  prosecuting  the  white  fishing,  when  28  or  30  boats 
go  regularly  to  sea  every  morning  if  the  weather  permits,  and  pro- 
ceed oftentimes  to  the  distance  of  40  or  50  miles  in  search  of  fish. 
The  boats  in  these  cases  are  manned  with  eight  men  each,  and  while 
each  manfur'nishes  a  certain  portion  of  line,  with  the  necessary  hooks 


980 


FII-'ESHIRK. 


attached,  the  produce  is  equally  divided  among  the  fishermen,  the 
owner  of  the  boat  being  entitled  to  a  double  share.    In  this  mode  of 
fishing  a  considerable  expense  is  also  incurred,  bpth  in  the  purchase 
of  mussels  for  bait,  which  are  generally  brought  from  the  Eden, 
beyond  St  Andrews,  and  also  by  the  frequent  loss  of  their  fishing 
tackle.    In  summer,  the  fish  are  generally  taken  to  Fisherrow  and 
Newhaven,  or  to  Dundee  and  Perth  ;  and  in  winter  they  are  gene- 
rally brought  into  the  harbour  and  sold  to  the  fish-curers,  or  to 
the  cadgers,  who  cart  them  to  a  great  distance,  and  dispose  of 
them  in  the  different  towns  through  which  they  pass.    The  fish- 
curers  smoke  the  haddocks  and  pickle  the  cod  which  they  pur- 
chase, and  send  them  to  the  Glasgow,  Liverpool,  and  London 
markets.    Besides  the  fishermen  who  are  engaged  in  the  fishing, 
the  means  of  subsistence  are  afforded  to  a  number  of  other  individu- 
als, such  as  coopers,  carters,  and  women  who  are  employed  in 
cleaning  and  curing  the  fish.    It  would  be  difficult  to  ascertairt 
the  amount  of  money  which  is  brought  in  from  the  deep  in  the 
course  of  the  year;  but  estimating  each  fishing  boat  at  120  crans 
on  an  average  in  ordinary  years,  the  sum  realized,  at  10s.  per 
cran,  would  amount  to  L.6G00,  besides  the  profits  arising  from  the 
take  of  cod  and  haddocks,  &c.  during  the  summer  season,  which 
is  very  considerable ;  but  when  the  expense  of  keeping  up  their 
lines  and  the  payment  of  their  bait  are  taken  into  consideration, 
these  apparent  gains  are  much  diminished.    A  cart  load  of  mus- 
sels brought  from  the  Eden  costs  from  20s.  to  22s.,  and  the  lines 
which  are  employed  in  fishing  by  each  fisherman  extend  to  ItfOO 
feet  in  winter,  and  double  that  length  in  summer,  so  that  when 
the  whole  or  even  a  portion  of  the  line  is  last,  a  considerable  sum 
is  necessary  to  repair  the  deficiency. 

Many  of  the  fishermen  are  in  respectable  circumstances,  and 
careful  in  the  management  of  their  substance,  but  it  is  matter  of 
deep  regret  that  the  same  cannot  be  said  of  all  of  them. 

Mrs  D.  Bethune,  as  the  superior,  is  entitled  to  every  fourteenth 
fish  of  the  different  kinds,  with  the  exception  of  herring,  of  which 
she  has  a  right  to  every  eighteenth  ;  but  instead  of  exacting  the  rent 
in  fish,  an  agreement  has  been  entered  into  with  the  fishermen, 
by  which  they  consent,  in  lieu  of  the  fish,  to  pay  L.40  annually. 

As  the  harbour  is  intended  merely  for  fishing  boats,  no  ships  or 
foreign  vessels  are  allowed  to  enter  it. 

V. — Pauochial  Economy. 
Cellardyke  is  the  only  town  in  the  parish,  and  Kilrenny  the 


KILRENNY. 


981 


ouly  village,  but  there  is  no  market  held  in  either  of  them. 
East  Anstruther  adjoining  Cellardyke,  and  about  a  mile  west 
from  Kilrenny,  is  the  place  where  the  nearest  market  is  held, 
and  where  the  post-office  is  situated.  The  road  along  the  coast 
from  Anstruther  to  Crail  passes  through  the  parish,  extending  up- 
wards of  three  miles ;  and  the  road  from  Anstruther  to  St  An- 
drews intersects  the  parish  in  a  different  direction,  to  the  extent  of 
two  and  a-half  miles.  Besides  these  turnpike  roads  there  may  be 
two  or  three  miles  of  statute  labour  roads. 

Ecclesiastical  State  and  Education. —  The  old  church  was  of 
much  larger  dimensions  than  the  present,  being  100  feet  by  50 
over  the  walls,  and  having  the  roof  supported  by  two  rows  of 
Gothic  arches  and  round  pillars.  The  time  of  its  erection  is  not 
known.  It  has  been  stated  by  some  of  the  older  inhabitants  of 
the  parish,  that  on  one  of  its  arches  was  cut  a  Lochaber  axe, 
and  on  a  stone  on  the  west  gable  outside,  was  the  figure  of  a  sheep, 
as  forming  part  of  a  coat  of  arms.  Having,  upon  inspection  in 
1806,  been  found  in  a  dangerous  state,  it  was  taken  down,  and 
a  plain  commodious  building  erected  on  the  same  site,  capable  of 
accommodating  about  800  sitters,  but,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid 
increase  of  the  population,  it  should  have  been  enlarged.  Adjoin- 
ing the  church  is  an  excellent  school- room,  to  which  a  considerable 
addition  has  lately  been  made,  and  a  comfortable  dwelling-house 
at  the  same  time  built  for  the  accommodation  of  the  schoolmaster. 
Both  kirk  and  school  are  so  placed,  as  to  be  convenient  for  the 
country  part  of  the  population  ;  but,  as  the  great  bulk  of  the  in- 
habitants is  in  Cellardyke,  it  would  have  been  desirable  to  have 
had  them  put  down  nearer  to  that  locality. 

It  appears  that  William  Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  with  consent 
of  his  countess,  confirmed  the  grant  of  the  church  of  Kilrenny  in- 
Fife  to  the  monks  of  Dryburgh,  which  had  been  made  by  the 
Countess  Ada,  the  mother  of  Malcolm  the  Fourth  and  William 
the  Lion.  The  parish  church  is  situated  in  the  village  of  Kil- 
renny, its  distance  from  the  extremities  of  the  parish  being  about 
two  miles.  It  was  built,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  in  1806, 
and  is  at  present  in  a  good  state  of  repair.  The  patronage  is  in 
the  possession  of  Sir  Windham  C.  Anstruther,  Bart.  The 
manse  was  built  in  1819,  and  is  also  in  a  good  state  of  repair. 
The  extent  of  the  glebe  is  about  eleven  acres,  and  is  valued  about 
L.'27.  The  stipend  is  136  bolls  of  uieal  and  the  same  of  barley, 
with  L.IO  of  communion  element  money. 


982 


FIFESIIIRE. 


The  great  bulk  of  the  population  attend  the  Established  Church 
with  the  exception  of  some  Dissenters,  not  amounting  to  a  hun- 
dred. The  average  number  of  communicants  for  several  years 
past  has  been  upwards  of  620. 

Education. — There  is  one  parochial  school.  There  are  also  a 
female  and  an  infant  school,  mostly  supported  by  the  school  fees 
and  partly  by  subscription.  There  are  other  two  schools  upon  the 
teachers'  own  adventure.  The  female  teacher  assembles  a  class 
every  Sunday  morning  for  religious  instruction,  and  a  Sabbath 
school  is  taught  in  the  evening,  which  is  numerously  attended 
by  both  boys  and  girls.  The  branches  of  instruction  generally 
taught  in  the  parish  school,  are,  English,  English  grammar,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic,  geography,  French,  Latin,  mathematics,  and  na- 
vigation. The  salary  of  the  schoolmaster  is  the  maximum,  and 
the  school  fees  are  2s.  6d.  for  English,  3s.  6d.  lor  arithmetic,  and 
5s.  for  Latin,  &c.  per  quarter. 

The  house  occupied  by  the  teacher  has  more  than  the  legal 
accommodation,  but  the  garden  ground  being  deficient,  an  allow- 
ance is  granted  by  the  heritors.  The  people  in  general  being 
alive  to  the  benefits  of  education,  it  is  believed  that  there  are 
comparatively  few  who  cannot  read  or  write. 

The  only  circulating  library  in  the  parish  is  one  connected  with 
the  Sabbath  school,  which  consists  of  religious  publications. 

Several  Societies  atone  time  existed  in  the  parish,  but  they  are 
mostly  broken  up,  with  the  exception  of  one  which  the  fishermen 
maintain  for  the  support  of  the  aged,  and  widows  and  children ; 
and  another  which  a  few  benevolent  individuals  some  years  ago 
organised,  for  administering  a  little  relief  to  aged  females. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  funds  for  the  support  of  the 
poor  are  procured  from  church  collections,  seat  rents,  interest  of 
money,  &c.  and  voluntary  assessment  on  the  heritors.  The  ave- 
rage number  of  poor  on  the  roll  for  the  years  1840,  1841,  and 
1842,  is  15  ;  average  expense  of  their  maintenance  per  year,  L.97, 
Os.  3d. ;  average  sum  expended  yearly  on  the  occasional  poor, 
L.19,  7s.  Gd. ;  total  yearly  expense  of  maintaining  the  poor, 
L  116,  8s.,  including  two  lunatics. 

The  average  amount  of  church  collections  for  1840,  1841,  and 
1842,  is  L.29,  18s.  6d. ;  Do.  seat  rents  for  each  of  these  years, 
L.31,  1  Is.  8d. ;  Do.  interest  of  money,  &c.  yearly,  L.5,  5s. ;  Do. 
voluntary  assessment  yearly,  L.49,  12s.  lOd. ;  amount  of  contri- 
butions for  relief  of  the  poor  yearly,  L.116,  8s. 


PITTENWEEM. 


983 


Inns,  Sfc. —  The  number  of  houses  licensed  for  retailing  spirits 
are,  in  Cellardyke,  fourteen,  and  in  Kilrenny,  one.  There  are, 
besides,  several  other  houses  licensed  only  to  retail  porter,  ale, 
and  beer. 

Fuel. — Coal  is  the  only  fuel  which  is  used  in  the  parish.  It  is 
procured  fvom  coal-works  in  the  parishes  of  Carnbee  and  Elie,  a 
distance  of  from  five  to  seven  miles.  The  coal  which  is  found  in 
the  parish  is  of  inferior  qujjlity,  and  used  only  for  burning  lime- 
stone. A  considerable  portion  is  also  brought  by  sea  from  the 
coal-works  along  the  Frith,  and  also  from  Newcastle,  but  at  a 
greater  expense. 

Mai/  1843. 


PARISH  OF  PITTENWEEM.* 

PRESBYTERY  OF  ST  ANDREWS,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JOHN  'COOPER,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name,  Boundaries. — The  name  of  the  parish  was  most  pro- 
bably derived  from  a  large  cave  anciently  called  weeni,  which  is 
situated  near  where  the  town  is  now  built,  as  also  from  coal-pita 
having  been  early  wrought  in  the  same  locality. 

Whether  Pittenweem  originally  was  a  parish  or  not  is  uncertain. 
The  parish  extends  from  east  to  west  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  and 
is  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  by  the  parish  of  An- 
struther  Wester  on  the  east,  by  the  same  and  Carnbee  on  the  north, 
and  by  St  Monance  on  the  west.  The  Frith  of  Forth  bounds  it 
on  the  south.  The  grounds  in  the  parish  are  flat.  The  soil  is 
in  general  a  black  loam,  and  very  fertile ;  producing  heavy  crops 
of  wheat  and  barley. 

Geoloffi/.— This  parish  forms  part  of  the  coal-field  of  Fife. 
The  mountain  limestone,  constituting  the  lowest  bed  of  the  for- 
mation, is  here  seen  to  crop  out  on  the  surface  to  the  west  of  the 
town,  and  above  this  are  workable  seams  of  coal.  The  intrusion 
of  trap  rocks  has  formed  an  anticlinal  axis,  so  that  the  seams  of 


*  Furnished  by  W.  R. 


984 


FIFESHIRE. 


coal  dip  in  two  directions.  The  precise  period  when  coal  began 
to  be  worked  in  the  pits  here  cannot  be  ascertained.  The  tradi- 
tion is,  that  a  pit  was  opened  by  order  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  who 
took  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Kelly's  estate,  of  which  it  then 
formed  a  part,  and  this  old  working  still  goes  under  the  name  of 
Cromwell's  Pit.  After  the  working  had  been  long  discontinued, 
it  was  recommenced  by  the  proprietor,  Sir  John  Anstruther,  about 
the  year  1770  on  a  large  scale,  and  still  continues.  An  exten- 
sive salt  manufactory  was  also  established  by  the  same  active 
proprietor  ;  but  this  has  been  long  ago  given  up. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Burgh. — The  burgh  of  Pittenweem  consists  of  a  street  extend- 
ing from  east  to  west,  with  the  parish  church  at  the  east  end, — a 
street  which  fronts  the  harbour,  and  another  of  more  recent  erec- 
tion running  parallel  to  those  on  the  line  of  the  county  road.  Se- 
veral lanes  connect  these  streets  from  north  to  south.  The 
houses,  both  of  the  old  and  new  parts  of  the  town,  are  substantial 
and  neatly  built.  There  are  several  excellent  shops  well  filled 
with  merchandise,  and  the  whole  place  exhibits  an  air  of  cleanli- 
ness, comfort,  and  respectability. 

The  burgh  was  at  first  a  burgh  of  barony,  holding  of  the  priors 
of  the  Priory  of  Pittenweem,  but.  in  1542,  by  a  charter  of  James  V. 
granted  in  favour  of  John,  then  prior,  it  was  erected  into  a 
royal  burgh,  and,  in  1547,  the  prior  and  convent  granted  to  the 
"  provost,  bailies,  council,  community,  burgesses,  and  inhabi- 
tants, the  burgh  as  the  same  was  builded,  or  to  have  been  builded, 
and  the  harbour  thereof,  and  all  moors,  mosses,  and  waste  ground, 
common  ways,  and  other  commonties,  liberties,  customs,  anchor- 
ages, &c.  belonging  thereto."  In  1593,  a  charter  was  also  granted 
by  James  VI.  to  the  town  "  of  that  great  house  or  lodging  of  the 
Monastery  of  Pittenweem."  These  charters  were  all  ratified  and 
confirmed  by  act  of  Parliament  in  June  1633. 

In  1651,  King  James  VI.  passed  through  the  burgh,  and  slept 
a  night  at  Anstruther  House'.  On  this  occasion  his  Majesty  was 
received  by  the  bailies,  and  council,  and  minister  *'  in  their  best 
apparel,"  and  with  them  twenty-four  of  the  ablest  men  in  their 
"  best  apparel,  with  partizans,  and  other  twenty-four  with  musquets." 
A  table  was  spread  at  "  Robert  Smith's  yeet,"  and  the  King  and 
his  followers  regaled  with  "  sundrie  great  bunns  of  fine  flour  and 
other  wheat  bread  of  the  best  order,  baken  with  sugar,  cannell, 
and  other  spices  fitting,  as  also  ten  gallons  of  ale,  with  Canary, 


PITTENWEEM. 


985 


sack,  Rhenish  wine,  Tent,  white,  and  claret  wines.  A  discharge 
of  "  thirty-six  cannon,  all  shot  at  once,"  announced  the  departure 
of  the  royal  guest. 

One  of  the  vessels  belonging  to  the  Spanish  Armada  was 
driven  to  this  coast  in  great  distress,  and  put  into  the  harbour  of 
Anstruther  Easter,  where  the  people  were  hospitably  treated. 

In  1779,  the  inhabitants  of  the  burgh  were  alarmed  by  the  pa- 
pearance  of  the  celebrated  Paul  Jones,  whose  small  squadron  lay 
off  the  harbour,  for  several  hours,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore. 
A  pilot  who  went  off,  on  the  supposition  that  the  ships  were  Bri- 
tish, was  detained,  and  treated  very  uncivilly,  nor  was  he  set  at 
liberty  till  after  the  engagement  which  Paul  Jones  had  with  the 
British  fleet. 

The  Priory  of  Pittenweem  was  founded  for  canons-regular,  who 
were  first  introduced  into  Scotland  about  the  year  1114.    It  be- 
longed to  the  Priory  of  St  Andrews,  and  had  considerable  landed 
property,  the  Isle  of  May  belonging  to  it,  besides  the  churches 
of    Anstruther    Wester,   Rhynd,   and  others.     John  Rowle, 
prior  of  Pittenweem,  was  one  of  the  Lords  of  Session.  His 
name  first   appears  in   the    Sederunt  Book,  5th  November 
1544.     In  March   1542,  he  had  bee^  one  of  the  Lords  for 
discussing  of  domes,  and  in  March  1544  he  appears  as  one  of 
the  Lords  of  the  Articles.    In  1550  he  accompanied  the  Regent 
Murray  to  France  and  died  in  1553.    In  1583,  William  Stewart, 
a  captain  in  the  King's  Guard,  descended  from  Alan  Stewart 
of  Darnley,  obtained  a  charter  of  the  priory  and  lands  of  Pitten- 
weem, and  was  afterwards  styled  Commendator  of  the  same. 
In  1806,  the  lands  and  baronies  belonging  to  the  priorv  were 
erected  into  a  temporal  lordship  in  favour  of  Frederick  Stewart, 
his  son,  who  had  farther  charters  in  1609  and  1618.  He  died,  as 
is  supposed,  without  issue,  and  the  title  has  never  since  been  claim- 
ed.   Previous  to  his  death  he  disponed  the  lordship  to  Thomas 
Earl  of  Kellie,  who,  with  consent  of  his  son,  Alexander  Lord 
Fenton,  surrendered  the  superiority  of  the  same  into  the  hands  of 
the  King.     A  considerable  portion  of  the  buildings  of  the  priory 
is  still  standing  and  inhabited.    The  prior's  house  is  now  the  pro- 
perty and  the  residence  of  the  Right  Rev.  David  Low,  LL.  D., 
Bishop  of  the  Scottish  Episcopal  United  Diocese  of  Ross  and 
Argyle.     The  walls  of  the  precinct  are  still  entire,  and  with  the 
other  buildings  serve  to  indicate  the  original  extent  of  the  priory 
and  its  domains. 

FIFE.  3  ^ 


986 


FIFESHIRE. 


A  little  below  the  priory,  in  the  direction  of  the  sea  beach,  is  a 
large  cave  with  two  apartments,  in  the  inner  of  which  is  a  well  of 
excellent  water.  Where  the  two  apartments  join,  there  is  a  stone 
stair,  which  led  up  to  a  subterranean  passage  that  communicated 
with  the  priory  by  another  stair.  The  two  stairs  still  are  to  be 
seen,  but  the  passage,  which  must  have  been  about  fifty  yards  in 
length,  has  been  obliterated  by  the  falling  down  of  the  superin- 
cumbent earth. 

The  burgh  is  now  governed  by  a  chief  magistrate,  three  bailiesy 
nineteen  councillors,  a  treasurer,  and  clerk ;  the  latter  acting 
as  assessor  to  the  magistrates.  They  have  the  usual  legal  juris- 
diction of  other  burghs,  but  few  cases  come  before  them.  There 
is  no  guildry  or  incorporated  trades.  The  property  of  the  burgh 
consists  of  lands,  mills,  slaughter-houses,  and  byres ;  ship-build- 
ing yard,  cellar,  and  shed ;  shares  in  a  granary,  washing-house, 
and  bleaching-green ;  seats  in  parish  church  ;  harbour,  petty  cus- 
toms, shore,  boom,  and  crane  dues ;  ironstone  on  the  sea  shore, 
sea- ware;  stances  for  curing  herrings,  feu  duties,  and  ground  an- 
nuals. The  income  is  variable  :  for  the  year  ending  October 
1839,  it  was  L.466,  4s.  2d.  Sterling,  besides  considerable  arrears 
owing  to  the  town  and  money  in  bank.  The  debt  owing  by  the 
town  was  at  the  same  period  L.1200  Sterling,  but  the  expenditure 
is  considerably  within  the  income.  The  harbour  is  much  expos- 
ed to  south-east  winds,  but  much  attention  is  paid  to  its  improve- 
ment by  the  magistrates. 

Dp  Douglas,  Bishop  of  Salisbury,  was  born  and  received  the 
rudiments  of  his  education  in  this  burgh,  where  his  father  was  a 
resident  merchant. 

III. — Population. 

The  population  in  1755  was  939 

1801,       -  1072 

1831,      -  1317 

1841,       -  1349 

IV. — Industry. 

In  former  times  a  considerable  trade  was  carried  on  here.  In 
1639  the  ships  belonging  to  the  port  consisted  of  thirteen  sail  of 
large  vessels,  besides  fishing  boats.  Many  of  these  were,  however, 
lost  or  taken  by  the  enemy,  and  the  trade  afterwards  declined. 
Kelp  was  at  one  time  manufactured  on  the  shores,  but  that  busi- 
ness has  been  also  given  up. 

At  present  a  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  in  Iverrmg  fishmg 
and  curing,  and  white  fishing.    A  few  sloops  and  schooners  be- 


PITTENWEEM. 


987 


long  to  the  town,  and  a  considerable  number  of  fishing  boats;  but 
as  Anstruther  Easter  has  a  better  harbour,  the  shipping  is  chiefly 
connected  with  that  port. 

There  are  grain  mills  belonging  to  the  town,  but  which  are  let 
out  to  a  tenant.  At  one  period  there  were  no  less  than  thirty 
breweries  in  the  burgh,  but  at  present  there  is  only  one. 

Rental. — The  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.2452  Scots.  The 
annual  value  of  real  property  in  1815  was  L.1712  Sterling,  of 
which  L,1127  was  assessed  on  the  burgh,  and  L.585  Sterling  on 
the  landward  part  of  the  parish. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  patron  is  Sir  W.  C.  Anstruther,  Bart 
The  stipend  is  L.166,  Is.  lOd.  The  yearly  value  of  the  glebe 
is  L.12,  12s.  The  church  is  apparently  of  a  very  old  date,  and  is 
supposed  to  have  formed  part  of  a  priory  which  formerly  existed 
here. 

Education, — The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  a  school-house, 
dwelling-house,  and  garden  ;  the  salary  is  the  maximum.  The 
average  number  of  scholars  is  ninety. 

There  is,  besides,  an  unendowed  school,  at  which  there  may  be 
about  the  same  number  of  pupils;  and  a  female  school,  sup- 
ported merely  by  subscription,  with  an  attendance  of  from  sixty 
to  eighty  pupils. 


July  1845. 


COUNTY  OF  FIFE. 


This  county  is  bounded  by  the  Frith  of  Tay  on  the  north ;  by 
the  German  Ocean  on  the  east;  by  the  Firth  of  Forth  on  the 
south ;  and  by  parts  of  Kinross,  Perth,  and  Clackmannan  on  the 
west.  '  Its  greatest  length  is  about  50  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth 
about  20  miles  ;  medium  length  36  miles.  Its  area  contains 
about  604  square  miles,  or  322,500  English  acres.  The  an- 
nual value  of  real  property,  as  assessed  in  April  1815,  amount- 
ed to  L.405,770  Sterling.  The  population  in  1831  was  128,839, 
and  in  1841  140,310. 


o 


OS 

CO 
CO 


©  ■<*< 
:  c 

O  CT> 
lO  O 


O©       ©©©O  O 


:C©05C£>   .o©   :©©c©  :«OTt<o 


irj  o  —  cx) 

00  OT  w  C" 


1  (» 

)  CO 


©  (M  O  "O 
l>  CO  I> 


00  05  o 
^  —  00 


q  bflS 

C    O)  k> 

O  J  o 

IV, 


o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

:  CO   :    ;   :  : 

:  :   :  :  :  o 

:  o  : 

:  O 

00 

C35 

o 

CO 

l> 

_,  w  «J 

fa  3  o 
O 


o 

O  O  CO  o 

o 

o 

o 

o  to  o 

o 

c  : 

:  o  o  05  o  ■ 

•  o  : 

:     l>  o  ; 

CO 

O  lO  o 
03  "O  O)  CO 

o 

05 

(M  (N  O 
—  CO  CO 

"  c  .-2 

S  3  S 


o 

C 


is 


oo 
o  o 

CO  00 
CO 


73  O 


O 
O 


O 
O 


O 

,o 
"  o 


e5 


o  o  o  o 
:  o  o  o  o 


o  o  ■>* 

iO  t-  >0  CO 


o  o  o 
:  o  c  o 


O  (M  CO 

t-  lO  Tjl 


o  o  o  o  o  o  o 
.      c  ^  ^  ^  ^  I  o  ^ 


CO 


00  05  Tj< 

CO      lO  o 


CD 

o 


o 


o 

o  o  o 

ooo 

o 

o  o  o  o 

o  o 

o 

o  : 

:o  o  o 

:  o  o  o  : 

:  o 

:  o  o  o  o 

:oo  : 

o 

4J  CO 

S  ^  -5 

00  CO 

i-i  — 

lO  o  o 
CO  —  (M  l> 

o  o 
i> 

o 

t^ooooooooo 

•*T(HTfTj.OO-*OQ0 

•^■^■^.^OrJfTf-^Cl 
COCOCOCOOOCOCOCOOJ 

J 


O  O  O  O  O  O  O  O  O  O  ©  00  O 

00  o  •*  CO 

■*-*Ttl-»j'T)''<*-rJ<Tj<05CD-*"0  Tt< 

CO  CO  00  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  £N  TO  W  TO 


•siooqag 


o  a  " 

ill 


•OQ 

sfEnpiAipaj 


•  Sia}u3ssi(j 


sjEnpiAipuj 


•I88I  "! 


:  TO  — .  l>  TO  (M  r-.  CO  ;2;coTO— ifN— I— .Tt-t^TOiOTO-H  


J;  O  6  O  o       ">  2  „• 


•  S  2  S  "  S  ^"  .t>.  0  '° 

"t>uooOCJ"SS    ...  ...O 


8  O 

s  « 

J3 


at  0) 
T3  -a ' 


J3  J2 
c;  c^ 


18  ca  , 


^  «  Z--_^  «CN<N  HW-IO'TO  - 

Q0;ocoio;2g2;2jijS^2j^  —  22IS2i^ij'^Sj''^g5fc4 


B 

3 

Jo 


c«  a; 
2  S 


(N  00 

;  CO  :  o 
. «  .  o 


CO     gj  g 


•  05    •  O 

:o  :  t>. 


TO  t>. 

00 


:  TO       :  § 


TO 

:  CD 


CO 

:  «5 


©J 


CO 

:  "O   :  >o 

•  O  -CD 


:  ^  cS  S  ■  S 
:  o  (jj  -<   :  TO 


.58  S 

TO  •  O 
'-I  Of 


in 


:  en 


CO 
.  rt< 
t>  TO 
CO  — 


"-^t^'O'o  —  oTOcoTO 


S  03 


CO 


'3 


01 


3  "o 


■■s  § 


5P 


111 'fill  illiiif  nil 


■  ■a 

3 

c 


p 


B 

a 
O 


O 

H 


o  o  o  o  o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o  >o  «  o  o  : 

:     :  o 

o 

O  : 

o 

:o 

CO  o  o  o 

T(<  Ol  — 1  O  (N 

CO 

00 

« 

o 

CO 

n 

o  o 
to  S 


o 
o 

TO 


O  O 

:  o  'O 


o  o 


to  3 


a 
o 


J3  — 


o 

o  o 

© 

© 

00 

o 

© 

©  © 

CO 

:  o  :  © 

© 

© 

»o 

:  © 

© 

©  <M 

L.66 

TO  CO 

00 

CO 
TO 

00 
<M 

© 

CD 

00  CO 

o 

©  o  © 

© 

© 

o 

:TO 

:  ©  o  © 

© 

©  : 

©  : 

L.52 

—  o  o 

TO  CO  >0 

© 

o 

o 

c  2  ^  o 


o 


o  o  o  o 
:  ■<j<  o  ■* 


o  o  o 


o  o  o  o  o 

^  ^  ^  ^ 


O  <35  ■* 
CO  CO  !>■  ^         iO  »0 


o  o 

00  O  ■*•<!)<  CO  (N 
>0  OS        CO    CO      o  o 


© 

'©  © 

© 

©  © 

:  © 

:  ©  © 

© 

©  © 

© 

©  «5 

© 

©  l> 

CO 

to 


©©  ©  ©©©©  o 

;©©    ©    ©©©©  © 


Tj<"0    ©    ©OlM©  00 
CO    (N    TO  TO I>  —> 


u 

"3 

CO 


TO  TO 


0©g©©©000  ©O 

3  . 

'S 

<n<n^<nnm  to  toto  « 

j-^  _a  

COC<l    -TO  t-- !>'-<■*'-•  OJ  ItMiOTO-HC* 

 I  to   

•s     2  2  w)  « 

•73  3      -a  TJ       „•    -rt^  cj -g  d  3  CO  3  .o 

2  ^t2£^oo 

CD  Q     ::  oi     "I;;  :: 

c<3    :    .   :   :   :   S5     .   .  CO             .     ;     .  . 

O         O  CO  t~  p 

:::::!>•  :      :::  I'^c^ 

:  :  :   ■  :oi     ■  ot   

_  _ 

o   :   •   :   o>      :   ■   :     :     :  . 

s   Si 

Q  ©  TO 

:::::«     :  "j-c  : 

 TO      •    TO  ... 

if5  I>  —  Tf  TO  O    05    ^  CP  f--      Tj<  OS  OT 

O  »0      •<S<  Q  —    —    >0  TO  — •      >0  —  "5 

CO  —  Tj<  O  ^  95               •>#  Q      »0(M05  CO 

tM  —      <M  'O  !N          (M  to          "  (N 


©  ©  ©  O  O 


^!t*         ^*  ^ 


^  ^4*  ^ 
TO  TO  TO  TO 


1*1 
TO 


•siooqog 


°    B  " 
3   "   01  G 

1(2  s 


_  _  & 

B 


•S13}U3SSIQ 


•OQ 

sii3npi\ipu[ 


8 


O 

lO  o> 


•1881  "! 


O)  TO  O  C>  O 
go  05  r>.  to 
00  05  05  ^ 


:§ 

Oh 


o*  P 

is 


S 

O  m  m 
B  O 

B  B  g 

o  s  5 


i-j  XI  3  Q)  3 


c  c 
tier: 
u  — 
"5  ^ 


B 

<! 


§  i  - 

rtj    (C  w 

iJ  EPS 

^  o  « 
3?  to  o 


c 

B 

B 


B  " 
,3 

^  IS  m 
3  B  13  B 

ucato  < 


CO 
-«-* 
o 
H 


< 

S 
o 


o  . 

s  _  ° 

2  e-G 

a  S 
O 


S  CO 

a  S  c  .-2  .-S 

o  S  3  a  5 

£  "  °  o  51 


o 
H 


C9 


© 

:  o 


CO 
CO 


o 

o 

CO 

o 

rH 

CO 

00 

© 

w 

00 

© 

to  t>  o  © 

■  If)    ©    ©  o> 


© 

© 

:  © 

:  00 

CD 

© 

00 

o 

o 

I> 

© 

o 

©  © 

» 

o 

lO 

:  o 

o 

© 

© 

I>  © 

00 

o 

1— < 

t> 

OJ 

CO 
CO 

(M  © 

'0 

05 

© 

© 

© 

O 

© 

o  © 

CO 

© 

© 

©  : 

:  © 

© 

© 

r— I 

l> 

CO 

CO 

© 

o 

00 

o 

(M 

© 

CO 

on 

t>  o 

o  o 

:  o  o 


o  ^ 

00  — 


c 
o 


if5 
CO 


o    o  o 

—    '  Q 

<N  CO 

J 


o 


o 

00 


o 


CI 


o  o 
o  o 


00 


© 
o 


o  o 


o  © 

:  o  o 


O  CO 
CO 


o 

o 

CO 


O      S  o  o  o     .      ©  o 

X 

o     :oooooj  :©o 


o  O  O     M        ©  © 


©  ©  ©  © 


-1<  Tj*  -* 


-*  ■*  Tj< 

CO  CO  CO 


CO 


CO 


©  ©  ©  ©  ©  © 


CO   CO  CO   CO   n  OA 


©  o  ©  ©  © 


T  >^  ^*  ^< 
^  Tt*  Tt*  TJ^ 

CO  CO  W  CO  CO 


•S[ooq3g 


03  (N 


CO 


lO    CO    O  CO  O  CO 


(M  -CO  lO  CO 
CO 


Id 


Ed 

>^ 

PC 


s 

c  J  "2  'o 

3  a  S  o 

0  g  S  0) 

1  «-3  ^ 


s]BnpiAipu| 


•sjajusssiQ 


s  a 

u  a 

2§ 


bJO 


■-  S3  J 


2^ 


; -3  OS  o"  us  c2    ^  ^  2a£22-"Bp- 


CO  ■ 


00 

:  o> 


05  O 

"0  :  i> 


»0        >0  (M 

:  CO 


•OQ 

siBnpiAtpuy 


•q3  -qsisa 


•lesi  "! 


CO 
CO 


Ci  I>  t-' 

r — 

O  ' 


c-  2j  «j 


'O 

;  CO 


iO  O  CO  CD 
CO  t-  — ' 
d  CI  O  I> 
iO  ^  --H 


CO 


>0  CI  l>  CO 

t~  CO  00  >o 

<N  CO  —  CO 

'O  (M  CO 


lO  CO 
—    O  05 


CO  CD  r-.  2  g; 
rr  OC  CO  CO  CO 


o  ^  3 

C  u  o 

o  -c 

m    1^  " 

So 


3 

>% 

o 
H 


■s  ^ 
i  3 

r/3  <! 


E 


B 

c 


INDEX. 


Abbey,  Balmerino,  ruins  and  history  of, 
578,  583 

Abbey  of  Dunfermline,  ruins,  &c.  of,  857 
Abbey  church  of  Dunfei-mline,  ruins  of, 
852 

Abbots  of  Dunfermline,  list  of,  857 

Abbotshall,  Lord,  152 

Abbotshall,  parish  of,  146 

Abden  house,  804,  811— King's  house 

and  gate  at,  809— tenui-e  under  which 

held,  ib. 

Abdie,  parish  of,  47— chm-ch,  ruins  of, 
51 

Abercrombie  or  St  Monans,  parish  of, 
337— village  of,  348— church,  ruins  of, 
343 

Abercromby,  James,  Lord  Dunfermline, 
866 

Aberdour,  parish  of,  716— harbour,  717 

—village,        house,  718 
Academy,  Cupar,  15 

Adam,  William,  the  architect,  153 
Adamson,  Rev.  John,  540 

Adie,  Lilias,  a  mtch,  732 

Agabatha,  fort  of,  28 

Agates  found  at  Crcich,  632 

Agricola,  notices  of,  411,  565,  697,  777 

Agricultural  association,  CoUessie,  34 — 
East  of  Fife,  331— Kinglassie,  201— 
Kirkcaldy,  765—  West  of  Fife,  893 

Agriculture  and  Rural  Economy,  31,  42 
52,  73,  84,  94,  106,119,125,136,155, 
167,  177,  189,  199,  214,  224,242,254, 
269,  288,  308,  330,  345,  367,  381,  395^ 
416,  430,  440,  447,  473,  502,  509,  526, 
546,  669,  589,  603,  621 .  647,  669,  707, 
723,735,  751,773,778,  784,  794  799 
811,880,  917,934,957,978,  986 

Ague,  former  prevalence  of,  in  EKe  978 

Airdit  castle,  ruins  of,  223— hill,  218 

Airdrie  hill,  942— house,  949 

Aithemie,  stone  coffins  found  at,  268 

Albany,  the  Regent,  murder  of  the  Duke 
of  Rothesay  by,  459,  924 

Alexander  I.,  notices  of,  717—11.,  584— 
III.,  863 — scene  of  the  death  of,  80S 

Alum  well,  the,  Dysart,  128 

American  bug,  ravages  of  the,  742 

Anderson,  Dr,  geology  of  Kemback,  &c 
by,  721,  802 

Annabella,  Queen,  residence  of,  240 

Annat  point,  827 

Anne  of  Denmark,  relics  of,  857 
FIFE. 


Anstruther,  Sir  Ralph  A.,  339— of  Elie, 
family  of,  285— Sir  William,  iJ.— Sir 
John,  ib. 

Anstruther  bum,  613,  616— house,  984 
Anstruther  Easter,  parish  of,  295— town, 
296 

Anstruther  Wester,  parish  of,  61 1— town, 
620,  623,  629 

Antiquities,  4,  27,  61,  64,  83,  92,  106, 
1 15,  126,  133, 160,  197,  220,  239,  267, 
287,  343,  365,  393,  413,  428,  438,  446, 
464,  508,  524,  544,  565,  583,  601,  619, 
640,  663,  705,  717,  722,  732,  748,  771, 
777,  792,  799,  808,  848,  930,  946,  955, 
—Mr  Raton's  collection  of,  at  Dun- 
fermKne,  857 

Appin  colliery,  834 

Archbishop  of  St  Andi-ews,  the  first,  459 
Armstrong,  Willie,  anecdote  of,  266 
Arncroach,  chapel  at,  918 
Amot,  Hugo,  916 
Arran,  the  Regent,  636 
Auchinleck,  Rev.  Thomas,  619 
Auchmuty  paper  mills,  672 
Auchterderran,  parish  of,  165— past  and 

present  state  of,  173 
Auchtermaiinie  house,  379 
Auchtemmchty,  parish  of,  781— town,  «6. 

783 

Auchtertool,  parish  of,  249— village,  267 
Auchter-uther-strather,  ruins  of,  524 
Augustine  monastery  of  St  Andrews,  ruins 
of,  466 

Ayton,  James,  spinning  mills  of,  160 
Back  burn,  the,  823 
Backmuir  of  Gilston,  village  of,  442 
Baillie  of  Lamington,  family  of,  638— co- 
lonel, 639,  654— principal,  746 
Balas  house,  8 

Balbec,  ruins  of  tower  at,  414 

Balbirnie  colleries,  659— house,  668— pa- 

■   per  mills  and  factory,  673 

Balcaithly,  urn  found  at,  366 

Balcarres,  family  of,  327 

Balcarres  coal  field,  321,  322— craig,  319, 

321— den,  321,  324— house,  326 
Balchrystie,  ruins  of  church  at,  1 25 
Balcomie  castle,  ruins  of,  947 
Balcruvie  castle,  ruins  of,  438 
Baldridge  burn,  829 — colliery,  831 
Baldutho  craig,  914 — limestone  at,  916 
Balfour,  family  of,  665— of  Balbirnie,  667 

—of  Burleigh,  776— James,  50— James. 

3s 


994 


FIFESIIIIIE. 


of  Whittinghame,  667 — Sir  James,  50, 

599— Sir  Robert, 'death  of,  71 
Balfour  or  Bal-orr  castle,  665 
Balgarvie  house,  4 1 
Balgonar  house,  799 

Balgonie  bleachfield,  676 — castle,  ruins 
and  history  of,  666 — spinning  mills, 
674 

Balhousie,  urns  found  at,  439 
Ballantine,  WiUiam,  death  of,  317 
Ballinbreich  castle,  ruins  of,  599,  601 
BaUingry,  parish  of,  446 
BaUomill  burn,  559 
Balmalcom,  village  of,  106,  109 
Balmerino,  the  last  Lord,  582 — the  first, 
586 

Balmerino,  parish  of,  577 — abbey,  ruins 
and  history  of,  578,  583— village,  578 

Balmullo,  village  of,  224,  227 

Balmuto  house,  811 

Balnaves,  Henry,  27,  745 

Balrymonth  hills,  460 

Balsillie,  Roman  remains  at,  116 

Balsusney  house,  749 

Baltullo,  coal  at,  522 

Balwearie  tower,  ruins  of,  150 

Balyarrow  curling  club,  646 

Bandi-um  house,  799 

Baneton,  village  of,  380 

Banks,  &c.  Colinsburgh,  333— Dunferm- 
line, 891— Markinch,  686— St  Andrews, 
497 

Bankton  park,  village  of,  106,  109 

Barclay  of  Collaimey,  family  of,  208 

Barns  house,  ruins  of,  946 

Bamslee  house,  665 

Bamsmuir  house,  971 

Barnyards,  village  of,  328 

Baron,  Professor,  462 

BaiTows,  see  Tumuli 

Basaltic  columns  in  Ceres,  518 — on  Dun- 
earn  hill,  408— in  Kinghorn,  801,  803 
— on  Largo  law,  434 — on  Orrock  hill, 
407 — in  Outh  quarry,  840 

Battle  law  of  Balmerino,  587 

Baudon  hill,  camp  on,  106— quarry  at, 
105 

Baxter  and  Stewart,  spinning  mills  of, 
674 

Bayne,  James,  871 

Beacon  on  Bimar  rock,  the,  828 

Beath,  palish  of.  174— hiU,i6.  824,  842 

— conventicle  held  at,  860 
Beaton,  Cardinal,  notices  of,  40,  364, 459, 

666 

Beatson,  Robert,  Esq.  133 
Beatton,  Rev.  William,  179 
Belfrage,  Rev.  George,  701 
Bell,  Dr  Andrew,  15,  462,  482 
Bellevue  house,  783 
Bellfiekl  house,  8 

Benedictines,  introduction  of  the,  into 

Fife,  743 
Bennarty  hill,  1 95 


Berry,  Francis,  bequest  by,  180 
Berry  land,  sandstone  quarry  of,  84 1 
Bethune  of  Creich,  family  of,  636 — David, 
Mary,  637— of  Balfour,  666— Sir 
H.  Lindesay,  328 
Biggar,  Rev.  Thomas,  807 
Billowness  head,  296,  614 
Bimar  rock  and  beacon,  231,  828 
Bin  hill,  404,  407 
Birkhill  house,  578,  588 
Births,  tables  of,  Dunfermline,  874 

Black  loch,  the,  829 

Blackadder,  Rev.  John,  866 

Blackburn,  village  of,  874 

Black  Cairn  hill,  57 

Black  craig  hill,  632,  633 

Blackfriars  monastery,  St  Andrews,  468 

Blacklaws,  quarry  at,  979 

Blackwood,  Adam,  Henry,  and  George 
871 

Blair,  Arnold,  chaplain  to  Wallace,  870 
— Dr  Hugh,  27— Rev.  Robert,  462, 
717,  899 

Blair  house,  706 — plantations,  696 
Blalo^vne  house,  8 

Bleachfields,  Ceres,  527— Kinghorn,  812 
—Kirkaldy,  755— Leslie,  119— Mark- 
inch,  676— Strathmiglo,  779 

Blebo  spinning  mills,  724 

Boar,  former  abundance  of,  in  St  An- 
drews, 456 

Boar's  chace,  district  called  the,  360 

Boarhills,  village  of,  449,  481 

Bogie  house,  154 

Bogle  hill,  quarries  at,  559 

Boiling  well,  the,  265 

Bonytown,  mineral  spring  at,  454 

Boreland,  -sallage  of,  136,  139 

Boswell,  Dawd,  of  Balmuto,  806— Sir 
John,  ib. 

Botany,  23,  39,  48,  61,  113,  160,  208, 
234,  252,  305,  323,  409,  427,  467, 
562,  582,  599,  618,  695, 742, 804,  844, 
946,  973 

Bothie  system,  evils  of  the,  214,  225, 
425,  430 

Bothwell,  Earl  of,  928,  929 

Boulders,  remarkable,  in  Balmerino,  581 
— in  Flisk,  698 — in  Moonzie,  788 

Bower,  Rev.  John,  161 

Bowman,  David,  bequest  by,  968 

Breweries,  Auchtertool,  257— Dunferm- 
line, 890— St  Monans,  347 

Bricedale  house,  749 

Brickworks,  Dunfermline,  890 

Bridges,  see  Roads 

Briery  Avell,  the,  964 

Broomhall,  family  of,  867 

Broomhall  house,  824— reUcs  of  Bruce 
in,  856— and  of  Anne  of  Denmark,  857 

Brown,  Rev.  Mr,  539 

Bruce,  burial  place  of,  at  Dunferniline, 
853— reUcs  of,  856— of  Earlshall,  fa- 
mily of,  220— of  Kinloss,  697— Edward, 


INDEX. 


995 


697 — Thomas,  ib. — Mr,  king's  printer, 
783— of  Falklimd,  930— Professor,  806, 
807— Sir  George,  of  Carnock,  698,  867 
-Sir  William,  916 
,  Brucefield,  village  of,  874— spinning  mills 
at,  890 

Brucehaven,  village  of,  230  — harbour, 

824,  896 
Brunton  castle,  665 — village,  651 
Buchanan,  George,    459,    462  —  Rev. 

Thomas,  525 
Buckhaven,  village  of,  394,  396,  398,  400 

— fisheries,  396— harbom-,  403 
Bucklyvie,  village  of,  281 
Buddo  rock,  the,  451 
Bunzeon  house,  568 
Burnside,  village  of,  106,  109 
Burntisland,  parish  of,  404— town,  ib.— 
its  history,  &c.  411,  418— harbour,  419 
— pier,  dock,  &c.  420 
Bumturk,  quarries  at,  105 
Bursary,  Henry's,  818— Thomas',  627 
Caiplie,  remains  found  at,  976 
Cairnenbie,  springs  at,  828 
CaimeyhiU,  village  of,  710,  714 
Caimie  hills,  636 — house,  8,  326 
Caima,  Aberdoui,  717— Burntisland,  414 
— Collessie,  28  — Flisk,  601— LesHe, 
116  — Saline,  799  —  Scoonie,  268— 
Strathmiglo,  777 
Gamble  water,  112 
Cameron,  Richard,  birthplace  of,  932 
Cameron,  parish  of,  304 
Cameron  bridge,  distillery  of,  677 
Camilla  loch,  house,  and  water,  148,  250 
Campbell,  Dr,  monument  to,  7 
Campsbankhill,  690— remains  on,  697,705 
Capelochy  castle,  ruins  of,  976 
Carberry,  Roman  station  at,  134 
Cardan's  well,  40 
Cardon,  den  of,  167 
Cargill,  Rev.  Donald,  933 
Carmichael,  Rev.  Frederick,  678 
Cambee,  parish  of,  913— law,  914— place, 

ruins  of,  916 
Cameil  hiU,  690,  691— British  camp  at, 

697  ^ 
Carnock,  parish  of,  690— house,  706— 
quarries,  693— tower  and  cross,  705— 
village,  692,  706,  710 
Carphin  quarry,  651 
Carr  rock,  the,  943 
Carron  Company,  the,  420 
Carslogie  house,  7 
Carstairs,  Rev.  Dr,  630 
Cascades  in  Auchtertool,  250 
Cassingray  collieries,  915 
Castlehill  of  Cupar,  3 
Castlehaven,  ruins  of  tower  at,  947 
Cathedral  of  St  Andrews,  the,  465 
Cattle,  see  Live-stock 
Caves  in  Burntisland,  405 — Kemback, 
721— Kilrenny,  971— Kinghom,  801 
— Pittenweem,  986 — St  Andrews,  451 


Cellardykes,  to\m,  harbour,  and  fisheries 
of,  295,  299,  975,  977,  979,  980 

Ceres,  parish  of,  517— town,  523,  528— 
burn,  518 

Chalmers,  Dr,  birthplace,  &c.,  of,  297, 
412,540 

Chamber  of  Commerce,  Kirkcaldy,  158 
Chance  Inn,  village  of,  517 
Chapel,  quarry  at,  149 
Chapel  of  St  Rule,  ruins  of,  464 
Chapel  farm,  site  of  camp  at,  446 
Chapel  garden  of  Wemyss,  the,  393 
Chapels  in  Fhsk,  ruins  of,  464 
Charles  I.,  birthplace  of,  849,  864 
Charles  II.,  signing  of  the  Covenant  by, 
864 

Charleston  lime-quan-ies  and  works,  824, 
837 — fossil  remains  in  them,  838 — vil- 
lage and  harbour,  874,  896 
Charleton  house,  326 
Charter  of  St  Andrews,  the,  477 
Chartulary  of  Dunfermline,  the,  845 
Chatelherault,  Duke  of,  636 
Cheape,  Captain,  improvements  by,  33 
Chesterhill,  antiquity  called,  520 
Cholera  in  Dunfermline,  876 
Christ ]s  Kirk  on  the  Green,  scene  of,  115 
Christianity, introduction  of, into  Fife,449 
Chronicle  of  Fife,  author  of  the,  378 
Churches,  see  Ecclesiastical  Statistics- 
belonging  to  Dunfermline  Abbey,  859 
Cistertian  monks,  order  of  the,  584 
Clatchard  crag,  49 
Clatto  hill,  450,  720 
Cleish  hills,  823 

Climate  and  meteorology,  1,  22,  37,  48 
57,  90,  103,  112,  127,  147,174,181 
195,  207,  231,  249,  264,  282,  295,316. 
339,  357,  375,  391,  426,  436,  451,  506, 
517,  534,  559,  579,  596,  612,  632,  716, 
720,  741,  770,  801,  824,  914,  944 

Clune  hills,  690— plantations,  695 

Cluny  collieries,  170 

Cluthie  burn,  534 

Coal  and  collieries,  Abbotshall,  149— 
Anstruther  Wester,  613,  617— Auch- 
terderran,  169— Balcarres,  322— Bal- 
lingry,  448— Beath,  175— Cameron, 
305— Carnbee,  915— Carnock,  693— 
Ceres,  519— Crail,  946— Dunfermhne, 
829,  836 — Dunino,  357— Dysart,  129 
— Earisferry,  319— Elie,  283— Fordel, 
182— Grange,  321— Inverkeitliing,  232 
— Kennoway,377, 384— Kinghom,  803 
— Kinglassie,  195— Kingsbarns,  91— 
Kirkcaldy,  742,  752— Largo,  435— 
Markinch,  659— St  Andrews,  475— St 
Monans,  340— Scoonie,  265— Torry- 
bum,  728,  735— Wemyss,  395 

Coalton,  village  of,  106,  109 

Coaltown,  East  and  West,  villages  of. 
393,  400 

Coaltown  of  Ceres,  village  of,  517 

Cockairncy  liouse,  181 


996 


FIFESHIRE. 


Coins  found  in  Abilie,  .51 — in  Collessie, 
29— in  Dunino,  36G— in  Flisk,  601— 
in  Kilniany,  5-14 — in  Leuchars,  223 — 
in  Moonzie,  792 

Coldstream,  Mrs,  bequest  by,  969 

Colinsbiu-gh,  village  of,  328 

Colinswell  house,  415 

Collairney  castle,  ruins  of,  209 

College  close,  Falkland,  937 

Colleges  of  St  Andrews,  482 

Collessie,  parish  of,  21 — village,  30 

Colliers,  character  of  the,  879 

Colluthie  burn,  534 — house,  792 

Constable,  Archibald,  Esq.  916 

Constantine  III.,  notice  of,  460 

Cook,  Archibald,  bequest  by,  401 — Rev. 
John,  540 

Corbiehill,  village  of,  578 

Cormie  hill,  remains  on,  150 

Corn  markets,  Kirkcaldy,  757 

Cornceres,  limestone  at,  972 

Coull,  collieries  of,  659 

Coultry  hill  and  village,  578 

Covenant,  signing,  &c.  of  the,  678,  730, 

744,  864 
Craigencrune  hill,  633 

Craigfoodie  hill,  218,  770,  787  — house, 
771 

Craighall,  basaltic  columns  at,  518  — 
castle,  519  —  house,  ruins  of  524  — 
quarry  at,  521 
Craighead  point,  506 
Craighead,  Crail,  quarry  at,  946— remains 

found  at,  956 
Craigholm  house,  412 
Craigie  hiU,  coins  found  at,  223 
Craigloon,  soil  at,  914 
Craiglug  hill,  633 
Craigluscar  hill,  824— quarry,  839 
Craigrothie  quarry,S18 — village,  517, 523 
■  Craigsimmy  hill,  633 
Craigsparrow  hill,  57 
Crail,  parish  of,  941— to\vn,  959  * 
Craw,  Paul,  martyrdom  of,  66,  459 
Cra^vford  family,  burial  place  of  the,  668 

— Lady  Mary  Lindsay,  ib.  576 — third 

Earl  of,  789,  790 
Crawford  castle  and  priory,  568 
Creich,  parish  of,  631— castle,  ruins  of, 

644— church,  ruins  of,  645— Druidical 

circles  of,  640 
Crime,  tables  of,  Anstruther,  624— Biu-nt- 

island,  424  —Dunfermline,  9 10— Mark- 
inch,  589 
Cromarty,  Earl  of,  bequest  by,  400_ 
Crombie,  suppressed  parish   of,  727— 

church,  ruins  of,  732— villages,  733 
Cromwell,  notices  of,  134,  240,  412,  413, 

865 

Cromwell's  pit,  984 

Cross  of  Carnock,  705— af  Cupar,  7— of 

Kirkcaldy,  749 
Crossford,  village  of,  874 
Crossgates,  village  of,  188,  674,  874 
Culalo  hills,  249,  830 


Culdees,  notices  of  the,  125,  366,  408 

581,  677,  743 
Cults, parish  of,  588— hills./i. — quarry,570 
Cultsmill,  villag.e  of,  674 
Cunner  law,  914 

Cunningham,  Alexander,  of  Barns,  612 

Cunoquhie  house,  41 

Curling  in  Creich,  646 

Currie,  Rev.  John,  196 

Cupar,  parish  and  town  of,  1 — castle,  4 

— cross,  7— buildings,  ib. 
Cuttlehill  colliery,  835— house,  718 
Dairsie,  parish  of,  7  7 0 — bum,  7 7 1 — castle, 

ruins  of,  ib. — cottage,  772— propeity, 
,  771 
Dairsiemoor,  village  of,  774 
Dalgety,  parish  of,  181 
Dalginch  castle,  remains  of,  665 
Dalgleish,  William,  bequest  by,  87 
Dalzell  house,  8 

Danes,  defeats  of  the,  197,  587,  805 

Danish  remains,  Crail,  956 — Creich,  644 
—Largo,  438 — Inverkeithing,  239 

Dara,  den  of,  518 

David  1.,  notices  of,  745,  960 

David  II.,  birthplace,  &c.  of,  743,  863 

David  Duke  of  Rothesay,  murder  of,  924 

David  Viscount  Stormont,  931 

Davidson,  George,  bequest  by,  652 — Rev. 
John,  871 

Deaths,  tables  of,  Dunfermline,  876 

Den  of  Balcarres,  321,  324 

Den  of  Garden,  1 67 

Den  of  Dara,  518 

Den  of  Dura,  720,  721,921 

Den  of  Goales,  533 

Den  of  Kirkcaldy,  741 

Den  of  Luscar,  695 

Den  of  Wormit,  578 

Denhead,  coal  at,  475— village,  307 

Dickson,  Rev.  John,  866 

Dissenters  and  dissenting  chapels,  1 4,  45, 
54,  78,  86,  99,  110,  120,  126,  142,  161, 
170, 179,  190,  202,  216,  228,  246,  258, 
275,  291,  302,  312,  334,  352,  373,  387, 
399,  421,  432,  443,  448,  481,  501,  515, 
529,  554,  575,  593,  607,  626,  653,  682, 
683,  713,  718,  737,  765,  780,  786,  797, 
816,  898,919,  939,  982 

Distilleries,  Grange,  416— Inverkeithing, 
244 — Leuchars,  226 — Markinch,  677 

Dock,  Burntisland,  420 

DogtoAvn,  monumental  stone  at,  197 

Doig,  Dr,  933 

Dominican  monastery,  St  Andrews,  468 

Donaldson,  Mr,  bleachfield  of,  676— An- 
drew, 871 

Donibristle  house,  1 88 

Douglas  of  Knockda\-ie,  family  of,  414 — 
of  Strathendrv,  116— Lord  Wjlliam, 
617,  618— bishop,  986— Rev.  Robert, 
747 

'  Doune,  Lord,  717 

j  Do^vnfield  hill,  camp  on,  105 

1  Draffan  castle,  ruins  of,  365 


INDEX. 


997 


Draining,  43,  91,  97,  108,  137,  168,  189, 
199,  224,  243,  256,  310,  346,  370,  383, 
440,  447,  526,  548,  604,  660,  670,  708, 
799,  885,  917 

Dreel  burn,  339,  612,  616,  914 

Druidical  remains,  Creich,  640 — Dunino, 
366 — Kilconquhar,  315 — Largo,  438 
— Letham  hill,  239— Strathmiglo,  777 

Drumcarrow  hill,  304,  520 

Drummochy,  village  of,  442 

Drummond  of  Hawthornden,  notices  of, 
946 

Druranod,  farm  of,  551— urns  found  at, 
544 

Drumrack  hill,  942 

Drysdale,  Mr,  factory  of,  673— Rev.  Dr, 
747 

Dubbyside,  village  of,  274 
Du-Craig  island,  827,  828 
Dunbog,  parish  of,  205— property  and 

house,  208 
Dundas,  Lord,  208,  209— Mrs,  bequest 

by,  163 
Dundonald  colliery,  170 
Dunearn  hill,  405 — loch  on,  407 — basaltic 

columns,  408— camp,  411 
Dunfermline,  Earl  of,  861,  866 
DunfennUne,  parish  and  to^vn  of,  821  

abbey,  ruins  and  history  of,  743,  827 

— abbey  church,  ruins  of,  852— palace, 

ruins  of,  848 
Dunino,  parish  of,  356— property,  370— 

ruins  of  nunnery  at,  356,  365 
Dunmore  hill,  205 

Dunnikier  collieries,  742,  752— house  and 
plantations,  743,  749_la\v,  316,  319— 
village,  139 

Dunshilt,  village  of,  783 

Dura  den,  720,  721 ,  921— bleachfield,  527 

Durham,  Sir  Alexander,  436 — Admiral 
Sir  Philip,  182,  438— General,  438— 
Rev.  James,  436 

Durie,  David,  861— Rev.  John,  870— 
Lord,  266 

Durie  collieries,  265— house,  268 

Dury  of  Rossend,  family  of,  413 

Dye  works,  Dunfermline,  891 

Dysart,  first  Earl  of,  132 

Dysart,  parish  and  town  of,  127— church, 
ruins  of,  134 

Earlsferry  coalfield,  319— point,  320— 
town,  325 

Earlahall  castle,  ruins  of,  223 

Earthquakes,  effects  of,  on  the  Leven,  112 

East  Baldridgc  colliery,  834 

East  Balrymonth  liill,  450 

East  Cardon,  improvements  of,  169 

East  Coaltown,  village  of,  398,  400 

East  Lomond  hiU,  geology  of,  922 — 
camps  on,  930 

East  Luthrie  quarry,  651 

East  Neuk  of  Fife,  the,  90 

East  Pitcouthie,  stone  at,  976 

East  Port  of  Kirkcaldy,  quoad  sacra  pa- 
rish of,  765 


I  East  Wemyss,  village  of,  398,  400 
East  of  Fife  agricultural  association,  331 

— educational  society,  627 
Easter  Anstruther,  parish  and  town  of, 

295 

Easter  Gallaton,  village  of,  1 39 
Eastern  church  of  DunfermKne,  ruins  of, 
852 

Ebtie,  see  Abdie 

Ecclesiastical  statistics,  12,  34,  44,  5t, 
78,  86,  99,  109,  120,  126,  141,  160, 
170,  179,  190,  201,  216,  227,  245, 
258,  274,  290,  300,  311,  333,  349, 
372,  386,  399,  420,  432,  442,  448, 
502,  515,  528,  553,  574,  593,  607, 
625,  652,  677,  711,  718,  725,  736, 
761,  774,  779,  784,  796,  799,  815, 
872,  896,  919,  937,  964,  981,  987 

Eden  water,  1,  2,  22,  102,  104,  218,  450, 
454,  474,  517,  559,  720,  771 

Edenshead,  village  of,  779 

Edens  muir,  31 

Edenston,  village  of,  30 

Edenwood  house,  526 

Education,  statistics  of,  14,  36,  45,  64, 76, 
87,  99,  110,  121,  126,  143,  163,  171, 
179,  191,  202,  217,  228,  247,  258, 
275,  291,  312,  335,  353,  373,  388, 
400,  422,  432,  443,  448,  482,  506, 
615,  529,  555,  575,  594,  608,  626, 
653,  683,  713,  719,  727,  738,  766, 
775,  780,  785,  797,  799,  816,  901, 
919,  939,  968,  982,  987 

Educational  society.  East  of  Fife,  627 

Edward  I.,  notices  of,  458,  863 

Edward  III.,  458 

Edward,  Rev.  Alexander,  363 

Egsmalee,  ruins  of  church  at,  810 

Elie,  parish  of,  278— house,  287— village 
and  harbour,  280,  289— ruby,  284 

Elgin,  family  of,  867 

Elgin  collieries,  830,  835— marbles,  867 

Elizabeth,  Queen  of  Bohemia,  birthplace 
of,  849,  864 

Elliot,  Sir  Gilbert,  167 

Elphinston,  Sir  James,  586 

Embanlcingin  Collessie,  32— of  the  Eden, 
474 

Emergarde,  Queen,  577,  584 
Epidemics,  freedom  of  St  Andrews  from, 
463 

Erskine,  Rev.  Ebenezer,  115— Sir  Wil- 
ham,  of  Torry,  improvements  by,  370 
—Colonel,  698  —  John,  Professor  of 
Law,  *.— Dr  John,  699— Sir  John  D. 
733— Judge,  771— Sir  Thomas,  916 

Factories,  see  Spinning  mills 

Falfield  collieries,  322— house,  326 

Fciirney  of  Faimey,  929 

Fairs,  see  Markets. 

Fairway  rock,  the,  828 

Falkland,  parish  of,  920— c;vstle,  926  

house,  930 — palace,  ruins  and  liistory 
of,  923— town,  937— wood,  923 

Farm  buildings,  state  of,  85,97, 125,  137, 


998 


FIFESHIRE. 


156,  16ff,  178,  19.0,  225,  243,  256, 

272,  238,  310,  332,  346,  355,  369, 

384,  431,  441,  475,  510,  549,  569, 

605,  622,  650,  708.  778,  795,  812, 

886,  959,  978 
Farming  implements,  prices  of,  270,  604, 

648,  708,  881 
Farnie,  Mr,  his  apparatus  for  preparing 

oil,  418 — clock  belonging  to,  420 
Fergus,  Rev.  Henry,  871— James,  753— 

Walter,  of  Strathern,  749 
Fergusson,  Sir  Robert  C,  153— Mr,  of 

Raith,  163,  169— Dr  Adam,  462— 

Rev.  David,  699,  700,  870 
Femie  castle,  40,  41— village,  44 
Fernie,  Rev.  John,  history  of  Dunfeim- 

line  by,  843 
Ferry  at  Newport,  the,  512 
Ferry  hills,  the,  230 

Ferry  Port-on-Craig,  parish  of,  81 — vil- 
lage, 84 
Ferrybank  house,  8 
Fife  ness,  941 

Fifeshire,  observations  on,  988 
Firth  of  Forth,  the,  231,  612,  827,  828 
Fij  th  of  Tay,  ferry  on  the,  512 
Fisheries,  herring,  299,  346,  396,  417, 
476,  962,  979,  986— salmon,  74,  85, 
125,  244,  441,  475,  510,  589,  605, 
720— sea,  98,  289,  299,  346,  396,  476, 
622,  718 

Fish  pond,  curious,  in  Anstruther,  623 

Fittie  loch,  128,  174,  829 

Fleming,  Professor,  600 

Flisk,  parish  of,  595  —  wood,  ruins  of 
chapel  at,  601 

Fliskmjirhill,  remains  on,  601 

Font,  old,  found  in  Inverkeithing,  240 

Foodie  hill,  770 

Fordel  collieries,  182 

Fordel  Square,  village  of,  1 88 

Fordun  the  Historian,  364,  461 

Forest,  submarine,  597 

Forgan,  parish  of,  505 

Forth,  frith  of,  231,  612,  827,  828 

Forthar  lime  quarries,  105 

Forts,  ancient,  Collessie,  28 

Fossil  fishes  of  Burntisland,  the,  407 

Founderies,  Dunfermline,  890  —  Inver- 
keithing, 244  —  Kirkcaldy,  756  — 
Scoonie,  272 

Foxton  house,  8 

Franciscan  monastery  at  St  Andrews,  468 

Fraser,  Rev.  Donald,  387 

Frater  hall  at  Dunfermline,  ruins  of,  851 

Free  chiirclies,  Dunfermline,  898 

Freuchie,  villiige  of,  936 

Friendly  Societies,  17,  45,  144,  276,  292, 
302,  313,  335,  353,  401,  423,  444,  493, 
530,  628,  685,  714,  739,  768,  780,  905 

Fuel,  prices,  &c.  of,  19,  46,  80,  101,  110, 
122,  127,  145,  180,  217,  229,  248,  260, 
277,  294,  313,  355,  390,  425,  445,  495, 
516,  531,  557,  576,  595,  60.0,  629, 


654,  715,  770,  798,  819,  912,  940, 

983 

Gad  van,  preceptory  of,  210 

Gair  bridge,  the,  478 

Galdry,  village- of,  578 

Gallaton,  nlhige  of,  135,  139 

Gallow's  knowe  of  Burntisland,  413 

Gas  Works,  AbbotshaU,  157— Dunfenn- 
Ime,  894 

Gask  hill,  the,  28 

Gateside,  village  of,  770 

Gellie,  loch,  128,  148,  166— water,  148 

General  Assembly,  meeting  of  the.  at 
Biu-ntisland,  411 

Geologj'  and  Mineralogy,  2,  23,  38.  47, 
59,  91,105,  113,  129-;  149,  17.5,  195 
207,  219, 232,  250, 265, 283,  296,  305 
319,  339,  357,  376,  406,  427,  455,  507, 
518,  636,  559,  597,  613,  632,  656,  691, 
720,  728,  741,  787,  803,  829,  915,  921, 
945,  972,983  ' 

Gibb,  Rev.  William,  539 

Gibliston,  limestone  at,  916 

Gibson,  Sir  Alexander,  266 

Gifferton,  village  of,  30 

Gillespie,  Mr,  of  Mountquhanie,  im- 
provements by,  538— Rev.  xMr,  238— 
Rev.  George,  birthplace  of,  392— D.  of 
Kirkton,  bequest  by,  556,  654— Pro- 
fessor, 567— Rev.  Thomas,  founder  of 
the  Relief,  701— George,  745— Pa- 
trick, 746— Rev.  Robert,  933 

Glaidney  Cotton,  village  of,  9 

Glammiss  castle,  site  of,  804 

Glassmount  hill,  801 — house,  810 

Glenduckie  hill,  596,  598 

Glentarkie  house,  159 

Glenvale,  scenery  of,  776— bm-n,  921 

Gloe  loch,  829 

Goales,  den  of,  533 

Goat  milk  hill,  Danish  remains  on,  197 
Golf  balls,  manufactory  of,  476 
Golf  Club,   BiuTitisland,  416— St  An- 
drews, 472 
Gordon,  Sir  William,  of  Lismore,  948 
Gourlay  of  Kincraig,  family  of,  328 
Gowkhall,  village  of,  710 
Grame,  Rev.  Mr,  bequest  by,  903 
Grange  coalfield,  31 9,  321— distillery,  41 6 
— house,  415 — sandstone  quarry,  408 
Grangemuir  house,  616,  618 
Gray,  Dr,  bequest  by,  16 
Greencraig  hill,  632,  633— ancient  fort 

on,  644 
Greenlaw,  Rev.  Dr,  632 
Greens  of  Kihnany,  the,  549 
Gregory,  James,  inventor  of  the  Grego- 
rian telescope,  462 
Greig,  Admiral,  birthplace  of,  238 
Greyfriars  monastery,  St  Andrews,  468 
Grierson,  Mr,  history  of  St  Andrews  bv, 
458 

Grieve,  J.  &  Co.  paper  mills  of,  673 
Guard  bridge,  478 


INDEX. 


999 


Guild  court  of  Dunfermline,  895 

■GuUane,  Andrew,  death  of,  583 

Hackston,  David,  of  Rathillet,  539 

Hadow,  Principal,  462 

Halbeath  colliery,  835,  837— village,  874 

Haliburton,  Rev.  Thomas,  525 

Halkeraton,  Miss,  bequest  by,  531 — Da- 
vid, of  Rathillet,  539— Helenus,  ib. 

Halket  of  Pitferrane,  family  of,  868 — 
Lady  Anne,  ib.—Sii  John,  869 

HaUyards  house,  250 

Halyburton,  Professor,  46.2 

Hamilton,  Archbishop,  467  —  Patrick, 
maityrdom  of,  459 

Hanging  Myre,  the,  923 

Harbours,  Aberdour,  717  —  Anstnither 
Easter,  295— Buckhaven,  403— Burnt- 
island, 419— Dunfermline,  896— Dy- 
sart,  140— Elie,  280  — Forgan,  506, 
514 — Inverkeithing,  245 — Kinghorn, 
8 1 3— Kirkcaldy,  756, 758— Leven,  273 
— Methil,  398  —  Pettycur,  815  — St 
Andrews,  478— St  Monans,  348  — 
Starly-bum,  420— West  Wemyss,  398 

Hardie,  Rev.  James,  818 

Haugh  spinning  mills,  675— bleachfi'eld, 
676 

Haughs  of  Kilmany,  549 
Hawkley  muir,  village  of,  135,  139 
Hay,  Lawrence,  monument  to,  6 — Peter, 

583— Sir  John,  586— of  Naughton, 

587 

Hazzleden,  quarry  at,  305 
Helmet  of  the  Bruce,  the,  856 
Henderson,  Rev.  Alexander,  220,  634 — 

bequest  by,  228,  634,  635— Rev.  Eben- 

ezer,  872 

Henry,  Rev.  James,  bursary  founded  by, 

818— bequest  by,  819 
Henrj'son,  Rev.  Robert,  871 
Hepburn,  John,  Prior  of  St  Andrews,  467, 

487 

Herring  fisheries,  see  Fisheries 
Hill,  Principal,  462 
Hillend,  village  of,  188,  242,  244 
Hillside  house,  718,  799 
Hilton  house,  8 

History,  civil,  4,  26,  39,  SO,  63,  83,  92, 
106,  114,  124,  130,  150,  166,  176,  188, 
196,  208,  220,  236, 252,  266,  285,  296, 
306,  325,  341,  361,  377,  392,  411 ,  428, 
436,  446,  458,  500,  507,  522,  539,  564, 
582,  599,  618,  634, 663,  697,  717,  722, 
729,  743,  771,  776,  782,  788,  798,804, 
844,916,  923,  946,  974,  984 
Hog,  Rev.  Wilham,  1 32— Rev.  JameB,701 
Holekettle  Burnside,  village  of,  106,  109 
Hope,  Sir  John,  40— of  Craighall,  family 
of,  523— Sir  Thomas,  524— Sir  Wi  lham , 
948  . 

Hopeton,  Earl  of,  40 — monument  to,  41 
Horsburgh,  Major,  improvements  by,  562 
Horses,  see  Live  Stock 


Horticultural  Society,  Dunfermline,  893 

Hospital  of  St  Leonards,  498 

Hospital  Mill,  quarries  at,  559 — spinning 

mills  of,  573 — village,  574 
Huntly,  Lord,  defeat  of  the  Crawfords  by, 

790 

Husbandry,  systems  of,  10,  32,  43,  74,  95, 
96,  107,  137,  156,  168,  178,  200,  216, 
224,  243,  255, 271,  309,  330,  345,  368, 
382,  416,  430,  440, 447,  474,  509,  547, 
648,  669,  589,  604,  649,  670;  708,  778, 
795,  885,  917,  936,  958,  978 
Hutton,  Rev.  Andrew,  540 — General,  846 
Hydrography,  2,  22,  38,  49,  67, 104,  112, 
128, 148,  166, 174, 181,  195,  218,  231, 
249,  264,  280,  305,  317,  339,  357,  376, 
391,  406,  454,  606,  517, 533,  569,  579, 
596,  612,  632,  691, 728,  741,  771,  827, 
914,  944 

Improvements,  Auchtertool,  261 — Fhsk, 

609— Wemyss,  402  . 
Inchcolm,  island  and  monastery  of,  717 
Inchgarvie  isle,  231,  240 
Iiichkeith,  island  and  lighthouse  of,  819 

— meteorological  obseiTationa  taken  at, 

801 

Inchlaw  hill,  426 

Inchrye  house,  52  « 

Ink  Craig  spring,  691 

Innergelly  woods,  973,  974 

Inns  and  alehouses,  19,  46,  79,  101,  110, 
122,  126,  145,  164,  171,  180,229,248, 
260,  277,  293,  299,  31 3,  354,  372,  390, 
424,  432,  445,  448,  496,  516,  631,  557, 
676,  609,  629,  664,  715,  739,  770,  795, 
819,  912,  940,  983 

Inverkeithing,  to^vn  of,  236,  241,  242, 
244— battle  of,  865 

Inverkeithing  and  Rosyth,  imited  par 
rishes  of,  230 

Inverleven,  village  of,  682 

Invertiel,  village  of,  811— quoad  sacra 
parish,  815 

Inweary  bum,  339 

Inzievar  house,  799 

Irnie  hiU,  970 

Iron  founderies,  Charleston,  890,  891 — 
Dunfermline,  890— Inverkeithing,  244 
— Kirkcaldy,  766— Scoonie,  272 

Ironstone  found  in  Anstruther,  615,  617 
— in  Carnock,  692 — in  Dunfermline, 
842-Dy8art,  129_Kirkcaldy,  742— 
Markinch,  658— St  Andrews,  455— 
St  Monans,  340— AVemyss,  395 

Irving,  Edward,  762 

James  III.,  birthplace  of,  467 

James  V.,  escape  of,  from  the  Douglases, 
927 

James  VI.,  notices  of,  29,  411,  459,  806, 
864,  928 

Jameson,  Professor,  on  the  Geology  of 

Burntisland,  406 
Jcrmin's  Mortification,  904 


1000 


FIPESHIRE. 


John  of  Fordun,  the  historian,  364 
Johnston,  Mr,  embanking  of  the  Eden  by, 
104 

Johnstone,  Mr,  improvements  by,  32 

Kame  water,  719 

Keilour  burn,  22 

Keils  glen,  432 

Keith  water,  230 

Kellie,  Earl  of,  916 

Kellie  law,  316,  914— collieries,  915 

Kelty,  village  of,  176 

Kem  water,  719 

Kemback,  parish  of,  719 — hills,  720 — 

mills,  725 
Kenly  burn,  358,  450,  454,  914 
Kennedy,  Bishop  of  Si  Andrews,  468, 

487 

Kenneth  II.,  450 

Kennoway,  parish  of,  375 — burn,  376  — 
viUage,  fi75,  376,  379,  380 

Kettle,  Mr,  bequest  by,  442 

Kettle,  parish  of,  102— village,  106,  109 

Kiel  burn,  438 

Kilbrachmont  hill,  316,  319 

Kilconquhar,  parish  of,  315 — house,  326 
—loch,  280,  317— village,  328 

Kilgour,  suppressed  parish  of,  920 — bu- 
.  rial  ground  at,  939 

Kilmauy,  parish  of,  532 — hill,  533 — pro- 
perty, 550— village,  533,  552 

Kilmaron  house,  8 

Kilminning,  remains  at,  966 

Kilmure  house,  268 

Kilremonth  and  Kilrule,  ancient  names 

of  St  Andrews,  450 
Kilrenny,  parish  of,  970— to^vn,  975,  977, 

980 

Kinaldie,  trees  at,  306 

Kincaple,  village  of,  481 

Kincardine,  the  Earls  of,  69S. 

Kincraig  hills,  316,  319— headland,  317 

Kineddars  house,  799 

Kinghom,  first  Earl  of,  805 

Kinghorn,  parish  of,  800 — bay,  ib. — har- 
bour, 8  0 1  —loch,  802— ness,  8  0 1  —town, 
802 

Kinglassie,  parish  of,  194 — village,  195, 

201 — agricultural  association,  201 
Kingsbarns,  parish  of,  89 — castle,  ib. — 

village,  90,  93,  98 
King's  cairn,  the,  941 
Kingsdale  house,  379 
King's  gate,  the,  809 
Kingskettle,  parish  of,  102 
Kingsmuir,  history  of  the  property  of,  362 

— house,  950 — plantations  at,  945 — 

quarry,  946 
King's  wild  end,  death|_of  Alexander  III. 

at,  805 
Kinkell  c.ive,  451 
Kinloch,  village  of,  30 
Kinloss,  Lord,  697 
Kinncar,  Charles,  Esq.'"26 
Kinnear,  barons^of,  549 — quarry  at,  536 


K  inn  in  month  quarry,  518 
Kirkcaldy,  parish  and  town  of,  740  agri- 
cultural association,  756— chamber  of 
commerce,  158 
Kirkaldy,  Sir  James,  of  Grange,  807— Sir 

WiUiam,  ib. 
Kirk  craig  of  Kinghom,  801 
Kirkforthar  house,  668 
Kirk  heuch  of  St  Andrews,  460 
Kirkland  spinning  mills,  394,  397— vil- 
lage, 398,  400 
Kirklands  hous?,799— mineral  8pring,S18 
Kirkmay,  coal  at,  946— house,  952 
Kirkton  of  Balmerino,  578— of  Burntis- 
land, 404,  414, 415— of  Laigo,  441 
Knockdavie  castle,  ruins  of,  414 
Knox,  David,  bequest  by,  17 — John,  no- 
tices of,  465 
Lackerstone,  barrow  called,  106 
Ladedda  hill,  520 — lime  quarry,  521 
Lady  bimi,  1,  2 

Lady  well,  Bahnerino,  580— Falkland, 
938 

Lamberlaws,  camp  on,  413 

Lamont,  John,  378 

Landale,  David,  bleachfield  of,  676 

Land  ovmera,  9,  30,  50,  64,  92,  106,  115, 
124,  133,  166,  175,  188,  196,220,238, 
252,  267,  286,  307,  327,  342,  364,  378, 
392,  412,  428,  437,  446,  462, 500,  507, 
523,  540,  567,  583,  600,  618,  639,  689, 
703,  718,  723,  732,  748,  771, 783, 788, 
799,  808,  847,  917,  953,  978 

Lappa,  rocks  at,  921 

Largo,  parish  of,  434— bay,  317,  434— 
house,  435,  437— law,  316,  434— ul- 
lage, 436,  442 

Largoward,  chapel  at,  333  —  collieries, 
322 

LathaEan  collieries,  322— house,  326 
Lathalmond,  limestone  quarry  of,  839 
Lathockar  bridge,  913— trees  at,  306 
Lathones,  ^'illage  of,  307 
Lawence,  Abbot  of  Lindores,  66 
Laurie  of  Hill  Cairnie,  family  of,  544 
Law,  Rev.  Mimgo,  132 
Law  courts  of  Dunfermline,  895 
Law  know  of  Carnock,  706 
Leases,  43,  85,  125,  137,  156,  168,  178, 
199,  215,  243,  256,  271,  288,  310, 331, 
346,  384,  431,  440,  447,  475,  510,527, 
549,  570,  605,  622,  650,  671,708,724, 
778,  795,  812,  886,  959,  978 
Leslej',  Sir  Andrew  de,  599 — Norman,  ib. 
Leslie,  Sir  John,  124, 418,  437— General, 
341,  657 

Leslie,  parish  of.  111 — gfreen,  tradition 
regarding,  115 — house,  112,  113,  116 
— viUage,  112,  113,  116 

Lesly,  John,  of  Parkhill,  SO — Abbot  of 
Lindores,  67 

Lethani  colliery,  835 — hiU,  Druidical  re- 
mains on,  239 — village  of,  44 

Leuchars,  parish  of,  217 — church,  resto- 


INDEX. 


ration  and  description  of,  2'20— castle, 
ruins  of,  223— village  of  224,  227 

Leven,  first  Earl  of,  666,  667 

Leven  water.  111,  112,  195 — village  of, 
269,  273 

Libraries,  16,  45,  88,  100,  121,  144,  164, 
203,  229,  247,  259,  275,  292,  388,  401, 
423,  433,  444,  493,  526,  608,  714,  739, 
768,  818,  903,  940,  982 

Lighthouse,  Inchkeith,  820— May,  612, 
943 

Limekilns,  village,  bay,  and  harbour  of, 
823,  824,  874,  896 

Lindores  Abbey,  history  and  description 
of,  61,  62,  64— battle  of,  52— house,  t6. 
loch,  28,  49 

Lindsay,  Sir  David,  of  the  Mount,  39, 
788,  932— of  Balcarres,  family  of,  327 
— of  Pitscottie,  birthplace  of,  525 — 
Lord,  of  Byres,  668— of  Kirkforthar, 
origin  of  the  family  of,  669 — David 
Aytone,  Esq.  951 

Linen  trade  of  Kirkcaldy,  history,  &c.  of, 
752 

Lingo,  soil  at,  914 

Links  of  Burntisland,  408— of  Elie,  279 
— of  St  Andrews,  451 

Lmktown  of  Abbotshall,  1 59 

Live  stock,  breeds  of,  10,  32,  43,  48,  53, 
75,  83,  97,  107,  156,  168,  199,  215, 
226,  251,  255,270,  309,  331,  368,  382, 
416,  431,  440, 474,  510,  526,  547,  570, 
589,  604,  622,  648,  670,  7t)8,  724,  794, 
812,  881,  885,  958,  978 

Loch,  remarkable,  Duneam  hiU,  407 

Lochend  loch,  829 

Lochgelly  collieries,  170— hill,  166 — vil- 
lage, 166,  170 

Lochmalonie  house,  538 — property,  551 

Lochore,  plantations  on,  446  —  loch, 
drainage  of,  447 

Lochty  bleachfield,  676— water,  128,  195 

Lochy  hiU,  633 

Logan,  Rev.  Allan,  731 

Logie,  parish  of,  426 — house,  antiquities 
in,  857— law,  596 

Lomond  hills,  112,  656,  775,  922 

Long  Annat  point,  827 

Long  Craig  island,  827,  828 

Longevity,  instances  of,  in  Abbotshall, 
147 — Anstruther,  298,  612— Balme- 
rino,  579— Ceres,  517 — CoUessie,  22 
— Crail,  945— Creich,  632— Cupar,  2 
— Dysart,  1  36 — Forgan,  506 — Kilcon- 
quhar,  329 — Kilmany,  343 — Kinghorn, 
802— Kirkcaldy,  741  — St  Andrews, 
452 

Longman's  grave,  the,  956 
Lordscaimie  castle,  789 — loch,  drainage 
of,  786 

Lower  Largo,  village  of,  436,  442 
Low,  Provost,  871 
Lowrie's  Know,  barrow  called,  106 
Luckland  hill,  218,  219 


Lumsdaine,  Sir  James,  975 
Lunardi,  balloon,  ascent  of,  524* 
Lundin,  family  of,  438 
Lundin  house,  435,  438— standing  stones 
of,  267 

Lundin  mill,  village  of,  442 

Luscar  dean,  695— hill,  690 — house,  706 

Luthrie,  village  of,  632,  651 

Lyndemus  hiU,  596 

Lyne  bum,  829 

Lyon,  Sir  John,  805 

M'Cormack,  Principal,  539 

Macbeth,  defeat  of  the  Danes  by,  805 

MacduiF,  Thane  of  Fife,  50 

Macduff's  castle,  393,  665— cave,  319— 

cross,  52,  70 
M'Indoe,  Rev.  Robert,  765 
M'Lean,  Rev.  AUan,  bequest  by,  902 
Madras  College,  St  Andrews,  482 
Magus  muir,  460 

Maiden  Castle,  ruins  of  the,  29,  664— 
rock,  451 

Maitland,  Admiral,  51— Mr,  improve- 
ments by,  33 
Major,  John,  461 

Malcolm   Canmore,  charter  of,  477  

burial  place  of,  852,  853— ruins  of 
tower  of,  822,  848 

Manufactures,  11,  31,44,  75,  85,  98, 108. 
119,  135,  137, 157,  226,  244,  257,  272, 
298,  332,  347,  385,  397,  416,441,  475 
511,  527,  546,  572,  692,  606,  651,672 
709,  718,  724,  752,  774,  778,  784,  812 
886,  936 

Mar,  the  Earl  of,  412 

Margaret,  Queen,  822,  853 

Markets  and  fairs,  12, 19,  76,  86,  98, 101. 
109,  120,  122,  126,  145,  159,  201,227, 
229,  247,  277,  289,  299,  333,  372,  390 
425,  478,  495,  512,  528,  552,  576,  593, 
606,  609,  624,  629,  710,  739,757,  779, 
819,  912,  936,  961,  981 

Markinch,  parish  of,  655— \iUage,  ib.~ 
hill,  ib. — remains  on,  663 — comparative 
states  of,  688 

Marshall,  Rev.  Thomas,  702 

Martine,  history  of  St  Andrews  by,  458 

Mary  of  Guise,  residence  of,  at  Falkland. 
928  ' 

Mary,  Queen,  residence  of,  at  Falkland, 
928. 

Masterton,  village  of,  874 

May  isle  and  lighthouse,  611,  612,  942 

Mechanics'  institute,  Dunfermline,  868 — 
library,  St  Andrews,  493 

Medicine  well,  Dysart,  128  . 

Melville,  Sir  James,  27— of  Raith,  39— 
George,  1  st  Earl  of,  ij.— James,  ib.,  300, 
975— Andrew,  39, 462— George,  152— 
Sir  John,  of  Abden,  809 — Laird  of 
Carnbee,  916 

Melville  house,  4 1 —meteorological  ob- 
servations tiiken  at,  37 

Mercer,  Mr,  history  of  Dunfermline  by,  845 


1002 


FIFESHIRE. 


Meteorology,  see  Climate 

Methill,  tillage  and  harbour  of,  398,  400 
— chapel  at,  403 

Methill  mill,  ruins  of  chapel  at,  393 

Middlefield  house,  8 

Middlefoodie  burn,  771— village,  774 

Miglo  water,  775 

Milesmark,  village  of,  874 

Miller  of  Ballonrill,  tradition  regarding 
the,  29 

Millhills  quarry,  841 

Milton  of  Balgonie,  village  of,  682 

Miltown,  village  of,  675 

Mineralogy,  see  Geology 

Mineral  springs,  Ceres,  518 — Dysart,  128 
Kinghorn,  802— St  Andrews,  454 

Ministers  of  Abbotshall,  161  — Anstruther 
Easter,  297 — Balmerino,  593 — Carn- 
bee,  918— Crail,  967— Creich,  639— 
Dairsie,  774— Flisk,  707— Kemback, 
726— Kiknany,  539— Moonzie,  796— 
Strathmiglo,  777— Wemyss,  399 

Minto,  Lord,  improvements  by,  168 

Mitchell,  Admiral  Sir  Andrew,  870 

Mitchelsone,  Rev.  John,  412 

Moir,  James,  871 

Monastery  of  Dimfermline,  857 — Inch- 
colm,  717— St  Andrews,  466,  468 

Moncriefe,  Rev.  John,  807 

MoncriefF  of  Reedie,  family  of,  783 

Monimail,  parish  of,  37 — village  of,  44 

Monks  moss,  30,  31 

Monkston,  village  of,  30 

Mons  Grampius,  battle  of,  777 

Monthrive  house,  268 

Monumental  stones.  Cults,  568— King- 
horn,  810— Largo,  438 

Monzie  burn,  219,  786 

Moonzie,  parish  of,  786 

Moothill  of  Cupar,  the,  3 

Mortimer's  deep,  origin  of  the  name,  717 

Motray  water,  533,  534,  578,  632,  771 

Moultry  burn,  219 

Mount  hill,  37 

Mount  Melville  house,  307 

Mount  Pleasant  hill,  404 

Mountquhanie  house,  533,  544 — proper- 
ty, 551 — quarry,  536 

Mowbray,  Sir  Robert,  of  Cockairney,  1 82, 
188 

Moyes,  Charles,  SO — Dr  Henry,  ib. 
Mucros,  ancient  name  of  St  Andrews,  449 
Mugdrum  island,  58 — cross,  68 — house, 

72 — wood,  62 
Muir  Craig,  farm  of,  550 
Murdoch,  farm  of,  551 
Myres  castle,  783 
Myres  of  Kinghorn,  the,  800 
Nails,  manufacture  of,  Dysart,  137 
Naime  of  St  Fort,  family  of,  507 — Lord, 

508— Rev.  Thomas,  161 
Naughton  house  and  castle,  577, 578, 586, 

588 

Neilson  and  Co.,  mills  of,  394,  397 


Nethergate  of  Crail,  nunnery  at,  955 

Nether  Kilrenny  harbour,  975 

Nether  Tyne  bleachfield,  812 

Nettles,  Jenny,  933 

Newark  house,  ruins  o^  343 

Newbams  house,  977 

Newbigging,  basaltic  columns  at,  518— 

house,  415,  706 — lime  quarries,  408  

village,  257 
Newburgh,  parish  and  town  of,  56 
Newburn,  parish  of,  124 
Newhall,  quarries  at,  946 — ^tower,  ruins 

of,  947 

Newington,  property  of,  551 
Ne\vmill  house,  771 — village,  733 
Newport  ferry,  512— harbour,  506,  514 

—village,  508 
Newspapers,  Cupar,  16— Kirkcaldy,  768 
Ne^vton  hill,  S06 

Ne^vton  of  Falkland,  village  of,  936 
Newtown  of  Abbotshall,  village  of,  159 
Nine  wells,  the,  58 
Norman's  law,  49,  205,  534,  596 
Norrie's  law,  remains  found  on,  439 
North  Church,  Dunfermline,  quoad  sacra 

parish  of,  897 
North  Glassmount  house,  remains  at,  810 
North  Queensferrj^,  village  of,  237,  242, 

244,  876 

Nimnery,  remains  of,  in  Crail,  955 — in 

Dunino,  356,  365 
Nuthill,  Roman  camp  at,  931 
Nydie  hills,  720— quarries,  475 
Oakfield,  village  of,  176 
Oakley  house,  799— loch,  728 
Oar  water,  128,  148,  166,  168,  195 
Oberwill,  William  de,  829 
Ochil  hiUs,  426,  532,  631,  775 
Ochre  pits,  Scoonie,  266 — Wem.yss,  395 
Ogilvie,  Rev.  John,  27 — Alexander,  of 

the  Boyne,  637 
Ogilvies,  defeat  of  the,  by  the  Crawfords, 

790 

Oil,  preparation  of,  418 
Oliver's  KnoU,  413 

Organic  remains,  Anstruther  Wester,  614 
—Burntisland,  407  —  Ceres,   522  — 
Cults,  56— J)iinfermline,  835,  838,  841 
—Dysart,  129— Kemback,  721— Kil- 
many,  538— Kinghorn,  803— Leuchars, 
219— Markinch,  658— Moonzie,  787 
—Wemyss,  391 
Ornithological  Society,  Dunfermline,  893 
Orrock  hill,  405 — basaltic  columns  at,  407 
Osnaburgh,  village  of,  774 
Oswald,  James,  of  Dunnikier,  747 
Otterston  house  and  loch,  181,  182 
Outh  quarry,  840 
Over  Kellie,  limestone  at,  916 
Paintings,  the  Torrie,  733—  Wilkie's 
early,  556 

Palace  of  Dunfermline,  ruins  of  the,  849 
Paper  mills,  Markinch,  672 
Parbroath  castle,  ruins  of,  645 
4 


INDEX.  1003 


Parknoolc  and  Blnekbuni,  village  of,  074 
Parliament,  meeting  of,  at  St  Andrews, 
459 

Parliament  Square,  Falkland,  937 

Parish  registers  of  Anstruther,  extracts 
from,  297,  619 — of  Auchtermxichty, 
782 — of  Beath,  175 — of  Burntisland, 
413— of  Carnock,  696,  703— of  Ceres, 
523— of  Dimbog,  210— of  Dunfermline,' 
848— of  Dunino,  363— of  Flisk,  600  — 
of  Inverkeithing,  238 — of  Kilmany, 
541,  542— of  Markinch,  678,  683— of 
St  Andi-ews,  463— of  Torryburn,729— 
of  Wemyss,  393 

Pathhead,  vOlage  of,  127,  136,  139 

Patiemuir,  village  of,  874 

Paton's  collection  of  antiquities,  857 

PaujDerism,  see  Poor 

PeashiUs,  remains  found  at,  587 

Pended  tower,  ruins  of  the,  852 

Pettycur  harbour,  801,  815 

Phelp,  Robert,  Esq.  bequest  by,  163,  765, 
767,  817,  818 

Pier  of  Burntisland,  the,  420 

Pitblado  house,  8 

Pitcairly  wood,  62 

Pitcaim,  Dr,  birthplace  of,  115 — Rev. 

Alexander,  539 — Robert,  861 — Joseph, 

Esq.  917,  9W 
Pitcarthie,  monumental  stone  at,  976 
Pitcullo  castle,  ruins  of,  223 
Pitdinnis  plantations,  696 
Piteadie  castle,  ruins  of,  810 
Pitferrane,  family  of,  868 
Pitkeerie  wood,  .913 

Pitlessie  fair,  Wilkie's  painting  of,  26, 567 
Pitlessie  hill,  558 — quarries,  570 — village, 

568,  574 
Pitormie  house,  771 
Pitreavie,  battle  of,  865 
Pitreavie's  hospital,  904 
Pitscottie,  spinning  miUs  at,  527— quarry, 

618 

Pittairthy  castle,  ruins  of,  365 
Pittencrieff  glen,  822 — quarry,  841 
Pittendriech,  origin  of  the  name  of,  366 
Pittenweem,  parish  of,  983 — town,  984 — 

priory,  985 
PituUoch,  Andrew,  monument  to,  6 
Plague  in  Dunfermline,  the,  865 
Plantations  and  planting,  22,  31,  62, 107, 
113,  180,  136,  150,  167,  199,220,236, 
805,  324,  .33,9,  366,  371,  381,391,410, 
427,  435,  440,  446,  457,  473,509,538, 
547,  579,  599,  647,  695,  707,  720,  743, 
751,  844,  945 
Playfair,  Dr  James,  462 
Poaching  in  Auchterderran,  167 — in  Lea- 
lie,  118 

Poor,  management  of  the,  1 7,  35j  46,  56, 
79,  87,  100,  110,  121,  126,  144,  162, 
171,  180,  191,  203,217,  229,247,259, 
276,  292,  303,  31.3,  335,  354,373,  3B9, 
402,  423,  433,  444,  448,  494,  605,  5 1 6, 
531,  556,  675,  594,  608,  628,  663,  686, 


714,  719,  727,  739,  769,775,780,785, 
797,  800,  818,  906,  919,  940,  969, 
982 

Population,  returns,  character,  &c.  of 
the,  8,  30,  41,  62,  72,  84,  93,  106,  116, 
126,  135,  154,  166,  176, 180, 198,212, 
223,  253,  269,  287,  298,  307,  328,  344, 
366,  379,  394,  400,  428,  439,  447,  471, 
501,  608,  525,  544,  668,  588,  602,  620, 
646,  669,  706,  718,  723,  733, 749, 773, 
777,  783,  792,  799,  811,  873,  917, 966, 
977,  986 
Pottery,  Abbotshall,  157 
Prestonhall  house,  8 
Priest's  burn,  49 
Printing,  St  Andrews,  497 
Prior  walls  and  croft,  Crail,  964 
Prior  well,  Balmerino,  580 
Prior  Letham  Sycamore,  the,  306 
Priory  of  Crail,  the,  964— May  island, 
612 — Pittenweem,  985 — St  Andrews, 
466 

Prisons,  Burntisland,  424— Cupar,  18— 
Dunfermline,  872,  910— Dysart,  145— 
Earlsferry,  336— Inverkeitlung,  247— 
Kinghorn,  818— Kirkcaldy,  770— St 
Andrews,  495— St  Monans,  54 

Produce,  average  annual,  11,  34,  44,  53, 
75,  85,  96,  108,-119,  125,  169,  177, 
190,  200,  216,  226,  257,  269,  311,  331, 
345,  368,  386,  396,  41 6, 476,  502,  611, 
649,  572,  606,  623,  650,  671,  709,  795, 
812,  882 

Provisions,  prices  of,  at  various  periods. 
42  ^ 

Pundler's  Know,  baiTow  called,  106 

Quarantine  frigate,  the,  242 

Quarries,  freestone,  11,  23, 105, 196,  243, 
257,  305,  346,  358,408,  435,475,502, 
559,572,  605,  651,  693,  776,  841,  946, 
978  — limestone,  91,  105,  149,  169 
260,  257,  305,  323,  340,  406,  408,  435,  ' 
448,  520,  660,  570,  837,  916,  946- 
whmstone,  23,  47,  219,  243,  257,  476, 
510,  518,  536,  606,  651,  693,  840 

Queen  of  the  Dean,  tree  called,  695 

Queen's  house,  Dunfermline,  ruins  of  the, 
861 

Queensferry,  North,  town  of,  237,  242. 

244,  876  '       '  . 

Quern  found  in  Collessie,  28— in  Creich 

644 

Radernie  lime  quarries,  306— village,  307 

Railroads,  Dunfennline,  895 

Rain,  fall  of,  Dunfermline,  826— St  An- 
drews, 454 

Raith  house,  15,3,  801— lake,  148— pro- 
perty, 153— tower,  150,  153 

Ramsay,  Sir  Andrew,  162— Sir  William 
791 

Randerstone,  headland,  90 
Rankcilour  house,  41 

Rathillet  hill  and  house,  638  property 

of^  551 

Ravenscraig  castle,  ruins  of,  1 33 


1004 


FIFESHIRE. 


Rector  of  St  Andrew's  University,  the,490 
Red  rocks  at  Dysart,  the,  1 33 
Redcraigs  quarry,  the,  840 
Reddie,  .1.,  of  Redhouse,  improvements 
by,  169 

lledvvalls  house,  ruins  of,  950 — planta- 
tions at,  945 
Red  wells  hill,  195 

Reed  Society  of  Kennoway,  the,  386 
Refectory  of  Dunfermline,  ruins  of  the, 
851 

Regulus,  a  monk,  traditions  regarding, 
449,  497 

Reid,  William,  improvements  by,  650  

John,  bequest  by,  903 

Relief  church,  origin  of  the,  238,  701 

Rent,  rates  of,  10,  32,  43,  52,  73,  85,  96, 
107,  125,  137,  156, 167, 178,  190,  199, 
214,  225,  243,  254,  269,  288,  309,  331, 
345,  366,  382,  395,  416,  430,  440,  447, 
473,  502, 509, 526,  547, 569,  589,  603, 
622,  647,671,  709,718,  723,736,  752, 
774,  778,  784,  794,  799,  811,  812,  883, 
917,  935,  978,  987 

Reres  hill,  316,  319 

Resby,  Jacob,  death  of,  66,  469 

Reston,  Lord,  1 1 5 

Rhynds  house,  799 

Richard  II.,  destruction  of  Dunfermline 
by,  863 

Richardson,  Rev.  Mr,  settlement  of,  702 

Roads  and  bridges,  12,  34,  44,  53,  77, 
86,  98,  103,  120,  140,  160,  170,  178, 
201,  227, 257, 274,  289, 299,  311,  333, 
348,  371,  386,  398,  419,  432,  442,  479, 
512,  528,  653,  573, 593,  607,  624,  652, 
711,  715,  736,  760,  774,  779,  781,  796, 
814,  895,  936,  959,  981 

Roadstead,  Burntisland,  420 

Robinson  Crusoe,  birthplace  of  the  origi- 
nal, 436 

Rock  and  spindle,  rock  caUed  the,  456 

Roman  camps,  remains,  &c.  Ballingry, 
446— Carnock,  697, 705— Cults,  565— 
Dunearn,  411 — Dunino,  366 — Kem- 
back,  722 -^Kinglassie,  197 — Largo, 
439— Leshe,  1 1 6  — Leuchars,  223— 
Markinch,  663— Sahne,  799 

Rope  works,  Dunfermline,  890 

Roscobie  hills,  824 — limestone  quarries, 
837,  838,  839— village,  874 

Rossend  castle,  history  of,  413 

Rossie  loch,  drainage  of,  22,  33 

Rosslyn,  Earl  of,  135 

Rosyth  castle,  ruins  of,  239 — church, 
ruins  of,  246,  824 

Rothes,  family  of,  114,  115,  599 

Rothes bleachfield,  676 — paper  mills, 672 

Rothesay,  Duke  of,  notices  of,  458,  924 

Row,  Rev.  John,  death  and  monument 
of,  699,  700— Principal,  700 

Rowe,  Rev.  William,  523 

Rowle,  John,  985 

Royal  George,  relic  of  the,  438 

Rule,  tradition  regarding,  449 


Russell  and  Co.  bleaclifield  of,  573-^ 

Lord  William,  772 
Russell  mill  factory,  673 
I  Rutherford,  Samuel,  462 
St  Adrian,  alleged  coffin  of,  620 
St  Adrian's  chapel,  ruins  of,  612 
St  Andrews,  town  and  parish  of,  449 — 
its  origin,  ib.  450 — links,  451 — its  his- 
tory, 458 — first  archbishop,  469— an- 
tiquities, 464 — cathedral,  466 — priory, 
4G6 — castle,  458,  467 — shipping,  &c. 
477 — Madras  college,  482 — university, 
486 

St  Andrew's  Church,  Dunfermline,  897 

St  Ann's  bleaching  company,  527 

St  Rennet's  chapel,  ruins  of,  223 

St  Bricedale  house,  749 

St  Colme  house,  188 

St  David's,  harbour  and  village  of,  183, 

184,  188 
St  Dennis'  chapel,  ruins  of,  1 34 
St  Fort  hill,  506— house,  508— property, 

507 — woods,  509 
St  Glass's  well,  194 

St  John's  well,  Babnerino,  680 — Falk- 
land, 938 
St  Leonard,  497 

St  Leonard's,  parish  of,  497 — coUege,  St 
Andrew's,  487 — hospital,  Dunfermline, 
904 — spinning-mills,  810,  813 — tower, 
ruins  of,  808 

St  Margaret's  Hope,  231 — origin  of  the 
name,  237 

St  Mary's  bum,  1,  2 

St  Mary's  chapel  yard,  938 

St  Mary's  college,  St  Andrews,  488 

St  Michael's  church,  site  of,  5 

St  Minim's  chapel,  966 

St  Monans  or  Abercrombie,  parish  of, 
337— cell,  350,  966— history  and  de- 
scription of  the  church,  350 — village, 
338,  344,  347 

St  Muggin's  seat,  601 

St  Phillans  or  Forgan,  parish  of,  505 

St  Regulus  or  Rule,  449,  498 

St  Regulus'  tower,  ruins  of,  464 

St  Rufus'  priory  and  chapel,  ruins  of,  964 

St  Salvator's  chapel,  502,  503 — college, 
487— tower,  492 

Saline,  parish  of,  798— hills,  830— vil- 
lage, 799 

Salmon  fishing,  state  of  the  law  of,  590 
Salt,  manufacture  of,  Dysai-t,  130— St 

David's,  186— Wemyss,  397 
Sandilands,  Sir  James,  337 
Sauchie  burn,  195 

Sauchope,  standing  stones  at,  948,  955 
Sauchur  point,  283 

Savings  banks,  17,  46,  88,  100,  144,  171, 
259,276,  335,  354,  388,401,  423,444, 
494,  714,  769,  785,  818,  891 

Scarlet  fever,  ravages  of,  in  Elie,  283 

Scathe  stone,  the,  976 

School  hill  of  Cupar,  3,  5— of  Burnt- 
island, 404 
3 


INDEX. 


1005 


Schools,  see  Education  j 

Scientific  association,  Dunfermline,  903 

Scone,  Lord,  929 

Scoonie,  parish  of,  264 

Scott,  Rev.  William,  6 — Michael,  resi- 
dence and  history  of,  150, 151 — of  Bal- 
wearie,  family  of,  16\ — Thomas,  Lord 
Abbotshall,  152— Sir  William  of  Ar- 
dross,  273 

Scrymgeom-,  Rev.  John,  807 

Sculptured  stones,  Creich,  640 — Dun- 
fermline, 849 

Scurr  hill,  578,  531 

Sea,  supposed  encroachments  of  the,  427 

— various  inundations  of,  620 
Seafield  tower,  ruins  of,  810 
Seaton,  chancellor,  burial  place  of,  191 
Seatons  of  Clatto,  tradition  regarding,  106 
Seggie  distillery,  226 
Selden,  Archbishop,  746 
Selkirk,  Alexander,  birthplace  of,  486 
Senatus  Academicus  of  St  Andrews,  490 
Seton  of  Parbroath,  family  of,  638 — Alex- 
ander, first  Earl  of  Dunfermline,  861, 
866 

Shank,  Rev.  Mr,  bequest  by,  819 
Sharpe,  Archbishop,  83,  460,  518,  954 
Sheep,  see  Live  Stock 
Ship-building,  Burntisland,  418 
Shipping  belonging  to  Aberdour,  718 — 
Anstnither  Easter,  299 — and  Wester, 
623,624— to  Burntisland,  419— Crail, 
963— Dunfermline,  891— Dysart,  139 
— Inverkeithing,  244 — Kingliorn,  813 
— Kirkcaldy,  756 — Largo,  441 — Le- 
ven,273 — Newburgh,  76 — St  Andrews, 
477— St  Monans,  347 
Shipwreck,  losses  of  life  by,  St  Monans, 
341 

Sibbald  of  Balgonie,  667— Dr  George, 
916 

Sinclair,  John,  of  Balgregie,  167 

Sinclair  town,  village  oi,  135,  139 

Skeith  stone,  976 

Smibert,  Rev.  Mr,  539 

Smith,  Adam,  birthplace,  &c.  of,  115, 
747 — Michael,  spinning  mills  of,  774 

Smuggling  in  Auchterderran,  167 — Dy- 
sart, 136— Kirkcaldy,  751— Leuchars, 
224 

Snuff-miU,  Cupar,  11 

Soap  work,  Dunfermline,  890 

Societies,  religious  and  charitable,  14, 16, 
36,  142,  162,  247,  302,  335,  362,  388, 
423,  443,  482,  493, 626,  687, 738,  766, 
769,  816,  901 

Sommerville,  Mrs,  412 

fiouthesk,  Earls  of,  220 

Southfield  house,  783 

South  Letham  colliery,  835 

Spankie,  Sergeant,  933 

Spinning  mills,  Ceres,  527 — Cults,  573 
— Cupar,  11 — Dairsie,774 — Dunferm- 
line, 890— Kemback,  724— Kinghorn, 
810,  818  — Kirkcaldy,  765  — Largo, 


441— Markinch,  773— Scoonie,  272— 
Strathmiglo,  779 
Spital  bum,  829 

Spottiswoode,  Sir  Robert,  execution  of, 

459— Archbishop,  461,  583,  772— Dr 

John,  of  Dairsie,  772 
Spowart,  James,  of  Venturefair,  838 
Springfield  house,  8 — village,  ib. 
Stake-nets,  decision  of  the  law  courts 

against,  591 
Star,  village  of,  380 
Starly  bm'n,  405 — harbour  at,  420 
Starr,  farm  of,  551 — stone  coflins  found 

at,  544* 

Stenhouse,  ruins  of  tower  on,  4 1 4 

Stewart,  Duncan,  684 

Stocks,  Mr,  of  Arden,  tenure  of  his  pro- 
perty, 809 

Stone,  Jerome,  birthplace  of,  267 

Stone  coffins  found  in  Abbotshall,  1 50 — 
Abdie,  51 — Aberdour,  717 — Anstru- 
ther,  620 — Balmerino,  587 — Burntis- 
land, 414— CoUessie,  29— Creich,  644 
— Fliflk,  601— Kilmany,  544— Kings- 
bams,  92— Kirkaldy,  748— Largo,  439 
Leslie,  116 — Leuchars,  223 — Moni- 
mail,  41 — Moonzie,  792 — Scoonie,  268 

Stones  of  Lundin,  the,  267 

Stormont,  first  Viscount,  931 

Stratheden,  921 

Strathendry,  improvements  at,  123  — 

house,  116 
Strathkiness  quarries,  474 — village  and 

chapel,  479,  481 
Strathmiglo,  parish  of,  775 — village,  779 

— rocks  at,  921 
Strathore  house,  749 
Strange,  James,  Esq.  424 
Stravithy  castle,  ruins  of,  365 
Struthers  house,  ruins  624 
Submarine  forest,  Flisk,  597 
Sunnybank,  limestone  quarry  of,  839 — ■ 

sandstone,  841 
Swan,  Messrs,  spinning  mills  of,  810,  813 
Swnkie  hill,  urns  found  at,  955 
Sword  of  the  Brace,  the,  856 
Sypsies,  limestone  at,  972 — loch,  944 
Tanneries,  Anstnither,  298 — Dimferm- 

line,  890— Kilconquhar,  332 
Tarvit  house,  8 — spinning  mills,  527— 

tower,  ruins  of,  524 
Tay  river,  56,57,  82,  506,  578,  579,  592, 

596 

Tayfield  house,  508 

'Teasses  house,  525 — limestone  quarries 

of,  620 
Temple,  village  of,  442 
Templehall  house,  7 1 8 
Tennant,  professor,  birth-place  of,  297 
Tents  moor,  the,  21 9 
Tenure,  curious,  809 
Tequh'ats,  quarry  of,  520 
Teuchats,  Ume  quarry  of,  520 
Thirdpart  woods,  974 — house,  977 
Thomas,  Earl  of  Kellie,  916 


I 

I 


KINROSS 


CONTENTS. 


CLEISH, 
KINROSS, 
ORWELL, 
PORTMOAK, 


PAGE  32 
1 

52 

30 


I 

1 


PARISH  OF  KINROSS. 

nilESBYTERY  OF  DUNFEllMLI NE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  GEORGE  BUCHANAN,  D.  D.  MINISTER. 


I- — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name. — The  name  was  formerly  written  Kynross  or  Kynrosse. 
The  word  is  of  Gaelic  origin,  signifying  the  head  of  the  promontory, 
and  referring  to  the  position  of  the  parish  at  the  extremity  of  a  point 
of  land  running  into  the  lake.  This  seems  to  be  a  better  explanation 
of  the  name  of  the  town  and  parish  than  that  assigned  in  the  former 
Statistical  Account,  viz.  that  it  stands  at  the  head  of  that  tract  lying 
betwixt  the  Friths  ^)f  Forth  and  Tay,  which  had  the  appellation 
of  Ross  or  the  Peninsula.  The  etymology  now  given  has  the 
sanction  of  Christopher  Irvine,  whose  work,  entitled  Historice 
Scotica  Nomenclatura,  contains  these  words  :  "  Kinrossium.  The 
town  of  Kinross,  lying  at  the  beginning  or  head  of  a  point  of  land 
that  runneth  into  the  west  side  of  Lochleven,  and  this  is  the  rea- 
son of  its  name  in  the  old  language."  (See  his  work,  p.  117,  Edin- 
burgh, 1683.) 

Extent,  §-c. — The  parish  of  Kinross  hardly  extends  4  miles  in 
length  from  east  to  west,  and  from  south  to  north,  and  con- 
tains about  14  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
lake,  (which  leaves  only  a  small  portion  of  land  betwixt  it  and 
the  town,)  and  part  of  the  parish  of  Orwell ;  on  the  south,  by  an 
angle  of  the  parish  of  Portmoak  and  by  the  parish  of  Cleish ;  on 
the  west,  by  the  united  parish  of  Tullibole  and  Fossaway  ;  and  on 
the  north,  by  that  of  Orwell.    It  forms  a  sort  of  trapezium. 

There  are  no  eminences  within  the  parish  to  which  the  appel- 
lation of  mountains,  or  even  of  hills,  can  in  strict  propriety  be  ap- 
plied, and  hence  its  area  is  often  called  the  laigh  or  level  of  Kin- 
ross, presenting,  m  this  respect,  a  striking  contrast'to  the  heights 
of  the  four  adjoming  parishes.  The  surface  of  Lochleven  is  360 
feet  and  odds  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  but  the  most  elevated 
portion  of  the  parish  is  not  100  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake. 

Meteorology.— The  altitude  of  the  parish,  the  range  of  the 
Cleish  and  Ochil  hills  skirting  it  both  on  the  south  and  north,  and 

KINROSS.  A 


2 


KINUOSS-SHIRE.- 


the  evaporation  of  the.waters  of  the  lake,  all  concur  in  rendering  the 
climate  of  Kinross  parish,  moist,  cold,  and  variable.  So  far  as 
this  climate  depends  on  evaporation,  a  great  improvement  has  been 
accomplished,  and  will  go  on,  by  means  of  the  recent  operations 
upon  Lochleven,  and  the  increasing  exertions  of  cultivators  of  the 
soil  to  convert  wet  land  into  dry  ;  of  which,  more  particular  men- 
tion will  be  made  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  account. 

About  sixty  years  ago,  agues  were  very  prevalent,  in  consequence 
of  the  marshes  and  stagnant  water  which  then  abounded.  Now, 
a  case  of  ague  is  seldom  to  be  met  with.  Rheumatism,  often  pro- 
ceeding from  the  same  causes  as  ague,  or  at  least  very  much  ag- 
gravated by  them,  is  both  of  rare  occurrence  and  less  severe  than 
before. 

It  is  also  not  unworthy  of  remark,  that  our  harvest  frosts,  which 
some  years  ago  left  the  potato  stems  in  the  lower  grounds  alto- 
gether black,  while  in  the  upper  they  remained  fresh  and  green, — 
are  now  far  less  frequently  attended  with  these  effects.  And  to  what 
is  this  so  much  to  be  attributed  as  to  a  less  copious  exhalation  ? 

Hydrography. — Throughout  this  parish,  there  lie  scattered 
many  perennial  springs,  "  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  as  cold  as  ice," 
arising  from  a  sandy  or  gravelly  bottom.  They  yield  water  of  ex- 
cellent quality.  But  there  is  none  to  which  recourse  is  had  for 
any  medicinal  or  chemical  purposes. 

Among  the  different  objects  connected  with  the  parish  of  Kin- 
ross, there  is  none  which  imparts  to  it  so  much  celebrity,  interest, 
attraction,  and  value,  as  the  magnificent  sheet  of  water  which  forms 
its  eastern  boundary.  The  pen  and  the  pencil  have  been  so  often 
employed  in  the  description  of  this  lake,  and  have  been  employed  so 
well,  that  nothing  of  the  kind  is  required  or  will  be  looked  for  in 
this  Account. 

Yet  it  may  not  be  unnecessary  to  observe,  that  while  the  ope- 
rations which  the  lake  has  given  rise  to  within  these  few  years, 
have  certainly  taken  from  its  general  impressiveness,  as  well  as 
from  its  extent,  it  still  presents  an  appearance  on  which  the  ad- 
mirer of  nature  delights  to  dwell.  The  appearance  referred  to, 
in  calm  weather,  and  under  an  unclouded  sky,  is  that  of  mild 
beauty,  rather  than  of  picturesque  grandeur.  Under  moonlight, 
and  when  "  all  the  air  a  solemn  stillness  holds,"  the  views  from 
the  road  leading  to  the  old  church-yard  are  in  no  ordinary  degree 
sweet  and  soothing. 

Now  that  Lochleven  has  been  subjected  to  a  considerable  drain- 

4 


KINROSS. 


age,  its  extent  or  circuit  is  12  miles,  being  3  less  than  in  its  ori- 
ginal state,  its  depth  14  feet  at  its  medium  height,  being  41  feet 
less  than  formerly. 

"  The  surface  of  the  loch,"  says  Dr  Fleming  of  Aberdeen,  in 
his  Interim  Report  on  its  Fishings,  "  previous  to  the  late  partial 
dramage,  extended  to  4638  imperial  acres.    It  is  now  diminished 
from  the  high-water  flood  to  the  top  of  the  spill-water  1095  acres, 
thus  leaving  its  maximum  state  at  3543  acres,  according  to  the 
testimony  of  the  Commissioners.    By  this  mode  of  estimating  the 
change,  the  loch  would  appear  to  have  been  diminished  about  one- 
fourth  of  its  extent.    But  the  water  is  seldom  if  ever  allowed  to 
rise  to  the  height  of  the  spill-water.    Hence  it  appears  expedient 
to  increase  by  one-third,  365  acres,  the  recognized  diminution  of 
1095  acres,  thus  making  in  all  the  diminution  of  the  area  of  the 
loch,  and  its  consequent  value,  as  it  may  be  viewed  as  a  fish-pond, 
of  1460  acres,  as  equal  to  one-third  of  its  former  dimensions." 

Within  the  circuit  of  Loehleven  there  are  several  islands,  but  all 
inconsiderable  and  insignificant,  with  the  exception  of  two,  one  of 
vyhich  is  the  island  of  St  Serf  or  Servanus,  or  the  Inch,  which  the  pa- 
rish of  Portmoak  claims  as  its  own,  and  which,  as  such,  has  been  de- 
scribed in  the  old  Statistical  Account  of  that  parish.  The  other,  al- 
though considerably  smaller,  being  only  five  acres  in  extent,  is  com- 
monly called  the  Castle  Island  or  Castle,  in  consequenceofanancient 
fort  and  buildings  being  connected  with  it,  which  cover  a  great  part  of 
its  surface.  The  oldest  and  largest  building,  (and  for  the  particulars 
of  which  the  last  Statistical  Account  may  be  consulted,)  is  ascribed  to 
a  king  of  the  Picts.    In  the  absence  of  any  thing  like  historical 
certainty  on  this  point,  it  seems  more  reasonable  to  believe  that 
many  additions  and  alterations  have  taken  place  in  the  course  of 
centuries,  than  to  suppose,  as  Dr  Walker  (in  his  Essays  on  Natu- 
ral History  and  Rural  Economy,  under  the  head  Loehleven,)  has 
done,  that,  from  its  form,  it  appears  to  have  been  built  in  the  time 
ot  James  II.  of  Scotland,  who  began  to  reign  in  1436.   Indeed,  the 
facts  to  be  afterwards  mentioned  render  such  an  opinion  altogether 


When,  in  the  progress  of  arts,  and  manufacturing  industry,  a  very 
considerable  number  of  mills  and  bleachfields,  requiring  a  large  and 
permanent  supply  of  water,  had  been  erected  on  the  Leven,  which 
runs  out  of  the  lake,  and  when  in  a  dry  season  that  supply  was  often 
quite  inadequate  for  the  purpose,— it  became  an  object  of  no  small 
moment  to  the  owners  of  these  works,  to  render  the  basin  of  Loehleven 


4 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


a  reservoir  on  which  they  could  depend  throughout  the  year.  But 
the  means  to  be  employed  for  this  object,  were  the  very  same  which 
made  it  for  the  interest  of  the  landed  proprietors  around  the  lake, 
and  of  none  so  much  as  the  proprietor  of  Kinross  estate,  to  unite  with 
the  owners  of  the  mills  and  bleachfields  in  taking  steps  to  diminish 
the  extent  of  the  lake, — a  work  which,  by  lessening  its  evapora- 
tion, gave  a  more  equable  and  steady  supply  to  its  outlet,  while  it 
added  to  the  arable  acres  of  the  district.  Accordingly,  George 
Graham,  Esq.  of  Kinross,  first  moved  in  the  scheme,  and  after  him 
Thomas  Graham,  Esq.  with  still  more  activity.  It  was  not,  however, 
until  after  the  decease  of  this  gentleman,  and  during  the  minority  of 
his  grandson,  Graham  Montgomery,  Esq.  son  of  Sir  James  Mont- 
gomery, Bart,  that  all  opposition  and  difficulty  were  surmounted. 

Geology. — The  rocks  are  sandstone,  hmestone,  and  trap  or  whin- 
stone.  The  sandstone  consists  of  two  varieties,  one  of  which  belongs 
to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation,  and  the  other  to  the  under  car- 
boniferous group.  No  good  section  of  either  occurs  within  the 
parish,  and  our  knowledge  of  the  existence  of  the  former  is  chief- 
ly obtained  from  an  examination  of  the  geognosy  and  structure  of 
the  surrounding  district.  The  old  red  prevails  throughout  the  en- 
tire extent  of  Stratheden,  flanking  the  southern  slope  of  the 
Ochils  from  Strathmiglo  westwards,  and  cropping  out  at  various 
places  in  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Orwell,  whence  it  ranges  in  a 
south-westerly  direction  through  the  basin  of  which  Kinross  occu- 
pies the  centre.  It  consists  of  two  beds,  the  lower  of  which  is  an 
extremely  coarse  conglomerate,  containing  fragments  of  quartz, 
granite,  slate,  hornblende,  felspar,  and  several  members  of  the 
trap  family,  varying  from  the  size  of  a  garden  pea  to  three  or  four 
inches  in  diameter  :  the  upper  bed  is  fine-grained,  hard  and  com- 
pact, and  forms  an  excellent  building  stone.  The  dip  varies  from 
an  angle  of  8^  to  12°.  No  organic  remains  have  been  detected 
in  this  deposit  in  any  of  the  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Binnarty 
hill  rests  upon  a  yellow  sandstone,  which  differs  in  its  mineralogi- 
cal  character  from  the  sandstone  of  the  coal-field,  and  which  is 
supposed  to  be  more  nearly  allied  to  the  old  red.  But  the  inter- 
vention of  the  loch  and  other  obstructions  prevent  any  satisfactory 
researches  being  made  into  the  nature  of  this  interesting  deposit, 
so  far  as  its  range  is  connected  with  the  parish  of  Kinross. 

The  carboniferous  sandstone  occurs  in  the  western  division  of 
the  parish  on  the  farm  of  the  property  of  Mr  Spovvart.  It  is  said ' 
to  contain  beds  of  coal,  l)ut  to  what  extent  this  valuable  combusti- 


KINROSS. 


5 


ble  exists  in  the  locality  is  still  matter  of  conjecture  only.  The 
position  of  this  rock  is  sufficiently  indicated  by  its  relation  to  a 
similar  deposit  in  the  adjacent  parish  of  Cleish,  where  it  underlies 
the  mountain  limestone :  and  to  the  westward  a  few  miles,  near 
the  Crook  of  Devon,  the  old  red  again  emerges.    If  such  be  its 
true  position,  as  we  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  it  is,  any  beds 
of  coal  that  may  be  found  in  it  will  be  such  as  are  characteristic 
of  the  group  with  which  it  is  connected,  amounting,  as  in  other 
•places,  to  two  or  three  in  number,  and  of  inconsiderable  thickness. 
Limestone  accompanies  this  sandstone,  but  of  what  quality  and 
extent,  whether  it  belongs  to  the  carboniferous  limestone,  or  to  the 
cornstone  of  the  old  red  sandstone  series,  we  have  not  the  means 
of  determining.    No  section  of  these  rocks  is  exposed  to  view  ;  a 
thick  covering  of  aluminous  earth  overlies  the  surface ;  but  the 
intelligent  proprietor,  from  his  excavations  and  drainings,  as  well 
as  great  practical  knowledge  of  the  minerals  of  the  district,  has 
been  enabled  to  ascertain  the  existence  of  a  calcareous  deposit  be- 
neath. 

Whinstone,  or  rather  porphyry,  is  no  less  sparingly  distributed  in 
this  parish.  Two  varieties  only  occur,  namely,  compact  felspar,  and 
claystone  porphyry.  The  former  is  quarried  towards  the  south  side 
of  the  parish  at  Calcarnie,  and  occupies  the  ridge  to  the  westwards. 
This  rock  is  extremely  close  and  compact  in  texture,  and  is  much 
used  as  a  road  metal.  It  has  a  reddish  ash-grey  colour,  and  contains 
minute  crystals  of  hornblende  and  carbonate  of  lime.    The  clay- 
stone  porphyry,  which  is  of  a  mixed  iron-red  and  ochreous  colour, 
may  be  observed  behind  the  farm-steading  of  Calcarnie,  and  seems 
to  run  in  the  form  of  a  vein  in  a  north-easterly  and  south-westerly 
direction.    It  is  traversed  by  veins  of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  also 
contains  large  masses  of  the  same,  along  with  crvstals  of  glassy 
fel  spar  and  augite.  It  is  stained  in  various  places  with  dark-green 
spots,  which  would  seem  to  indicate  the  presence  in  small  quanti- 
ties, of  copper,  and  which  arise  in  all  probability  from  the  oxida- 
tion of  that  metal.  Boulders  of  the  primitive  rocks  are  abundant- 
ly distributed,  consisting  of  granite,  quartz,  mica  slate,  horn- 
blende and  greenstone.    None  of  these  are  of  very  large  dimen- 
sions, but  all  are  much  water-worn,  and  bear  sufficient  marks  of 
attrition  to  which  they  have  been  subjected  in  the  course  of  their 
transportation.    Masses  of  diluvium,  of  considerable  depth,  may 
be  observed  in  several  localities,  and  which  consists  chiefly  of  the 
debris  of  the  old  red  sandstone. 


6 


KINHOSS-SHIRE. 


If  Mr  Spowart,  who  is  well  acquainted,  and  is  still  connected, 
with  working  of  coal  at  Dunfermline,  on  an  extensive  scale,  shall  fail 
in  discovering,  as  he  once  hoped  to  do,  that  mineral  in  his  lands  in 
this  parish,  none  need  make  a  subsequent  attempt. 

Zoo%y.— Passing  from  a  subject  of  inquiry,  in  which,  so  far  as 
this  parish  is  concerned,  little  is  to  be  added  to  the  general  stock  of 
mineralogical  information,  the  next  branch  of  natural  history,  viz. 
zoology,  is  one  in  which  there  is  much  more  variety,  and  the  mate- 
rials are  much  more  interesting. 

It  is  much  to  be  feared  that  one  of  the  effects  of  the  late  partial 
drainage  of  the  lake,  has  been  the  destruction  of  some  of  the  spe- 
cies of  the  fish,  together  with  the  diminution  of  the  number  and  de- 
terioration of  the  quality  of  others.  Certain  of  the  sorts  of  which  Dr 
Walker  has  written,  seem  now  to  be  extinct,  and  the  char,  Sabno  al- 
pinus,  one  of  the  finest  fishes  of  the  loch,  has  almost  disappeared;  in 
so  much  that  Dr  Fleming,  so  well  known  as  a  zoologist,  and  who  has 
been  appointed  a  valuator  of  the  damage  done  to  the  fishing  of 
Lochleven  by  the  above-mentioned  partial  drainage,  estimates  it 
at  L.  73,  6s.  8d.  per  annum.  The  three  circumstances  to  which  the 
learned  Doctor  ascribes  this  permanent  injury  are,  Jirst,  the  cur- 
tailment of  the  area  of  the  loch,  secondly,  the  continued  abstrac- 
tion of  the  fish  by  the  currents  at  the  new  sluices,  and  lastly,  the 
barrenness  of  the  new  margin  of  the  lake.  The  weight  of  some 
of  the  trout  has  been  6^  lbs.  of  22  oz.  to  the  pound;  nay,  one  was 
caught  nearly  18  lb.  Pike  has  been  caught  in  1822,  wanting  only 
half-a-pound  of  two  stones,  or  42  lb.  Dutch  weight. 

The  trouts  of  Lochleven  feed  on  insects  of  every  description, 
and  very  much  on  red  earthworms,  and  insects  from  the  side  of 
the  loch.  According  to  Mr  James  M'Gill,  who  has  spent  the 
greater  part  of  his  life  at  Kinross,  and  who  is  uncommonly  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  natural  history  of  the  district,  many  of  the  fishes 
in  Lochleven  devour  others.  There  are  some  that  prey  on  min- 
nows, and  some  on  shell  -fish  of  every  description  ;  but  these  last  are 
trouts  of  inferior  quality.  That  which  seems  to  give  the  high 
colour  to  the  fish  of  the  lake,  is  the  animalculse  they  feed  on,  im- 
perceptible to  the  naked  eye.  These  minute  insects  are  very 
abundant,  and  trouts  in  full  season  are  always  gorged  with  them. 
They  resemble  jelly  after  they  have  remained  a  little  while  in  the 
stomach  of  the  fish.  When  the  contents  of  their  stomach  are  not 
dried,  the  colour  is  of  a  light  pink;  when  dried,  red. 

The  fishing  of  Lochleven,  which  begins  on  the  first  of  January 


KINROSS. 


and  ends  on  the  first  of  September,  is  at  present  let  for  seven 
years,  at  L,  204  per  annum.  The  price  of  trout,  which  thirty  years 
ago  was  4d.  is  now  Is.  a-pound  at  Kinross,  although  often  lower  at 
Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  and  even  at  Manchester,  where  there  has 
been  of  late  a  regular  market  for  it.  Pikes  are  sold  at  2d.  a-pound, 
and  perches,  which  are  most  plentiful  during  the  heat  of  summer, 
at  2d.  a-dozen.  There  is  now  no  stated  fishing  of  eels,  as  for- 
merly, from  August  till  December.  Two  boats  and  four  boatmen 
are  employed  during  one  part  of  the  fishing  season.  The  two  men 
employed  throughout  the  whole  of  it  have  lis.  a-week  ;  the  other 
two,  whose  labours  are  confined  to  the  summer  months  only,  10s. 
With  regard  to  the  fishes,  it  is  further  to  be  noticed,  that  they 
ascend  the  tributary  streams  of  the  lake,  ready  to  spawn  by  the 
middle  of  August,  and  continue  to  do  so  nearly  the  whole  month 
of  February. 

We  here  add  an  extract  from  an  article  in  the  Transactions  of 
the  Royal  Society  of  Edinburgh  for  1839,  entitled  "  Account  of  a 
new  species  of  British  Bream,  and  of  an  undescribed  species  of 
Skate :  to  which  is  added  a  List  of  the  Fishes  of  the  Frith  of 
Forth,  and  its  tributary  streams,  with  observations,  by  Richard 
Parnell,  M.D.,  F.  R.  S.,  E.,  &c. 

"  Salmo  coecifer,  Parnell,  (bearing  coeca, — the  coeca  being  more 
numerous  than  in  any  of  its  congeners;)  Salmo  Levenensis,  Wal- 
ker, Lochleven  trout,  common  in  Lochleven.  This  species  of  trout, 
which  is  well  known  to  many'persons  as  a  delicious  article  of  food, 
is  considered  by  most  naturalists  as  a  variety  of  the  Salmo  fario  or 
common  fresh  water  trout,  the  redness  of  its  flesh  depending  on 
the  nature  of  its  food.  I  consider  it,  however,  not  only  as  distinct 
from  the  Salmo  fario,  but  as  one  of  the  best  defined  and  most  con- 
stant in  its  characters  of  all  the  species  hitherto  described.  It  is 
at  once  distinguished  from  the  common  fresh  water  trout  by  the 
number  of  its  coecal  appendages,  which  vary  from  seventy  to  eighty, 
whereas  in  the  Salmo  fario  they  are  never  more  than  forty-five  or 
forty-six  in  number.  Its  tail  is  crescent-shaped  at  all  ages,  and  its 
body  has  never  a  vestige  of  a  red  spot.  The  tail  of  the  common  trout 
is  sinuous,  and  at  length  even  at  the  end,  and  its  body  is  almost 
always  marked  with  red  spots,  besides  its  flesh  being  always  of  a 
white  appearance. 

"  I  have  no  doubt  that  more  than  two  species  of  trout  are  to  be 
met  with  in  our  fresh  water  streams,  which  at  present  receive  the 
name     Salmo  fario^' — P.  1.54. 


8 


KINllOSS-SIilUE. 


Referring  to  the  birds  that  repair  to  Lochleven,  it  is  deserving 
of  notice,  that  a  new  one  made  its  appearance  about  thirty  years 
ago.  It  became  very  lame,  and  was  called  the  Swedish  crossbill. 
It  comes  in  autumn,  and  its  coming  was  thought  to  prognosticate 
bad  weather.  It  feeds  on  buds  and  cones  of  fir.  It  frequents  the 
plantings  at  the  churchyard.  Its  colour  is  red,  resembling  that  of 
a  parrot.    The  bill  crosses,  and  hence  the  name  of  cross-bill. 

Botany. — There  are  three  plants  found  in  the  parish  of  Kinross, 
which  that  eminent  botanist,  Dr  Arnott  of  Arlary,  has  not  yet 
observed  elsewhere  in  the  county.  The  one  is  Clieiranthus  cheiriy 
\a.r.  Jruticulosus,  (or  wallflower),  growing  on  Lochleven  Castle;  the 
other  is  Cerastium  arvense,  found  at  Lathro,  nearly  opposite  to  the 
gate  at  Lethangie,  east  approach  ;  the  third  is  Bromus  sterilis,  on 
the  roadside  to  the  church-yard. 

There  were  some  trees  of  a  stunted  appearance  betwixt  the 
lands  of  Lethangie  and  Kinross,  or  Lochleven,  by  report  and  ap- 
pearance, several  centuries  old,  which  were  lately  cut  down.  There 
are  trees  in  the  avenue  that  attract,  by  their  size  and  form,  the  at- 
tention of  the  stranger.  There  is  a  beautiful  walnut  in  front  of 
the  mansion  house ;  and  a  remarkable  ash  in  the  Castle  island, 
which  was  split  by  lightning,  and  part  of  which  rests  on  the  western 
wall  of  the  castle. 

II. — Civil  History. 

Of  this  parish,  as  such,  there  are  no  accounts,  so  far  as  the  wi'i- 
terof  these  pages  has  either  seen  or  heard,  nor  any  maps,  plans,  or 
surveys.  Of  the  county  of  Kinross,  there  has  been  a  very  correct 
map  by  Rennie.  Of  the  counties  of  Kinross  and  Fife,  a  very  hand- 
some as  well  as  accurate  one  was  published  by  an  English  com- 
pany a  few  years  ago. 

In  Gough's  British  Topography,  Vol.  ii.  1780,  it  is  stated  that 
Andrew  Rutherford  drew  a  view  of  the  beautiful  thorn  tree,  near 
Kinross,  and  of  Lochleven  Castle.  In  Font's  Maps  of  Scotland 
in  the  Advocates'  Library,  folio  xvii.,  there  is  one  of  Kinross-shire, 
described  28th  October  1642,  by  James  Gordon  of  "  Keanross," 
■with  the  loch  and  adjacent  countries,  sixteen  inches  and  a  half  by 
thirteen  and  a  half.  This  is  the  oldest  map  of  the  county,  and  a 
great  curiosity. 

Eminent  Characters. — One  of  the  first  of  these  is  Sir  William 
Bruce,  who  built  the  mansion-house  of  Kinross.  He  was  archi- 
tect to  Charles  II.  The  Falace  of  Holyrood  was  his  design,  as 
were  also  Hopetoun  and  Moncreiff  Houses.    Kinross  House  was 


KINROSS. 


9 


originally  intended  for  the  residence  of  James,  Duke  of  York, 
afterwards  James  VII.  of  Scotland,  in  the  event  of  his  being  pre- 
vented by  the  Exclusion  Bill  from  succeeding  to  his  brother. 

It  must  be  added,  that  Dr  John  Thomson,  the  present  distin- 
guished Professor  of  General  Pathology  in  the  University  of  Edin- 
burgh, is  a  native  of  this  parish. 

Ministers  of /he  Parish. —  Clergymen  within  and  without  the  Es- 
tablishment, who  were  born  or  carried  on  their  ministerial  labours  in 
this  parish,  were  respected  and  esteemed  in  their  day,  and  have  left 
behind  them  memorials,  shewing  that,  for  their  contemporaries  and 
posterity,  they  did  notlive  in  vain.  The  Rev.  Robert  Stark,  although 
his  settlement  in  1732,  was  nearly  coeval  with  the  rise  of  the  Seces- 
sion Church,  and  was  the  occasion  of  much  division  and  strife,  was  a 
superior  preacher,  and,  in  particular,  the  author  of  an  essay  on  the 
Ethiopian  of  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  which  has  been  much  admired 
both  by  Churchmen  and  Dissenters.  The  Rev.  John  Swanston,  or- 
dained minister  of  the  Associate  congregation  of  Kinross,  23d 
January  1748,  was  appointed  to  the  office  of  Professor  of  Divinity  in 
May  1764.  This  office,  along  with  that  of  Minister  of  the  Gospel,  he 
held  at  Kinross,  until  his  death  at  Perth  on  the  12th  of  June  1767. 
His  biographer,  Mr  Eraser,  minister  at  Kennoway,  speaks  of  him 
as  equally  distinguished  by  the  eminence  of  his  piety  and  the  depth 
of  his  theological  attainments.  A  volume  of  his  discourses,  rich  in 
the  grace  and  truth  of  the  gospel,  has  been  long  in  the  hands  of 
the  Christian  public.  The  incumbent  of  Kinross  parish  imme- 
diately preceding  the  present,  preached  before  the  Synod  of  Glas- 
gow and  Ayr  a  sermon,  afterwards  published,  on  the  subject  and 
manner  of  apostolical  preaching. 

The  ministers  of  Kinross  parish  since  the  Reformation,  as  far  as 
the  writer  can  ascertain,  are  as  follows  : — James  Dolby,  or  Dobie, 
or  Dowie,  first-mentioned,  a.  d,  1567 ; — had  under  his  superintend- 
ence the  kirks  of  Orwell  and  Ballingry,  while  Mr  Walter  Balfour 
and  Mr  Alexander  Wardlaw  were  readers  and  exhorters  ;  Robert 
Rait,  1590  ;  John  Colden,  1607, — conformed  to  presbytery  in 
1638,  and  died  in  1640 ;  Mr  George  Colden,  probably  a  son  of 
the  former,  admitted  1641,  and  died  in  1665.  "  Of  George  Gol- 
den it  is  reported  that  he  died  at  St  Andrews,  whither  he  had  gone 
to  have  an  interview  with  Archbishop  Sharp  on  some  of  the  rights 
and  interests  of  his  benefice,  but  where  he  met  with  no  redress  or 
satisfaction.  Such  was  the  attachment  borne  to  this  minister,  that 
a  number  of  his  people  went  to  St  Andrews,  and  bore  his  mortal 
remains  to  Kinross  as  his  place  of  interment.    Mr  James  Forsyth 


10 


KINROSS-SIIIIIE. 


was  translated  from  Moonzie  to  Kinross,  23d  November  1665;  Mr 
Henry  Christie  was  settled  in  1682,  and  ejected  for  not  praying 
for  William  and  Mary  in  1689 ;  he  was,  afterwards,  in  1709,  con- 
secrated as  a  nonjuring  bishop,  and  died  in  Kinross,  in  1718,  with 
the  respect  and  affection  of  all  who  knew  him.  In  Kinross  church- 
yard, there  is  still  to  be  seen  the  tombstone  of  Mr  Christie,  hav- 
ing a  brass  plate  and  a  Latin  epitaph  in  verse.  Mr  William  Spence, 
next  in  order,  was  admitted  1689  ;  Mr  Robert  Macgill,  1699;  Mr 
Robert  Stark,  1732;  Mr  Archibald  Smith,  1784;  the  present 
incumbent,  1804. 

Speaking  of  religious  persons  connected  with  Lochleven,  it  may 
not  be  improper  to  mention  that,  at  the  dissolution  of  the  monas- 
teries, Robert  Pitcairn,  commendator  of  the  Abbey  of  Dunferm- 
line, and  Secretary  of  State  to  James  VI.  in  the  regency  of  Len- 
nox, died  in  the  castle  of  Lochleven,  1584,  aged  sixty-four.  He 
was  one  of  those  engaged  in  the  Raid  of  Ruthven,  and  as  such, 
was  carried  prisoner  to  Lochleven.  He  was  Royal  Legate  as  well 
as  Secretary  to  James  VI.  His  tomb  is  in  Dunfermline  church- 
yard ;  and  on  the  lintel  of  a  house  occupied  by  him  in  the  May- 
gate  there  is  this  couplet ; 

Sin  word  is  thral  and  tliocht  is  fre 
Keep  weil  thy  tongue  1  counsel  the. 

Chief  Land-owners. — The  chief  land  owners  are,  Graham  Mont- 
gomery, Esq.,  eldest  son  of  Sir  James  Montgomery,  of  Stanhope, 
Bart,  by  the  younger  daughter  of  the  late  Thomas  Graham  of 
Kinross  and  Burleigh,  Esq  ;  and  the  Earl  of  Kinnoul,  who  lately 
purchased  the  lands  of  Colden,  &c.  once  the  property  of  Charles 
Stein,  Esq.  of  Hattonburn. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  Session  records  extantcontain  theacts 
of  that  court  from  8th  October  1665  until  13th  May  1683.  There  is 
alsoatthe  end  of  these  records,  a  register  of  baptisms,  from  April  1676 
to  March  1684.  There  is  a  second  series  from  the  20th  of  May  1683 
to  the  29th  September  1689,  with  a  register  of  baptisms  from  the  24th 
July  1684  to  the  23d  of  August  1689,  when  the  minister,  Mr  Chris- 
tie, was  removed.  The  third  begins  the  29th  May  1699,  and  ends 
9th  November  1718.  The  fourth  begins  29th  January  1719,  and 
ends  24th  July  1741.  The  fifth  is  from  28th  September  1741, 
to  26th  March  1753.  The  sixth,  from  17th  April  1753  to  24th 
July  1754.  There  is  a  register  of  baptisms  in  a  quarto  volume  from 
30th  April  1699,  and  ending  2d  April  1727,  together  with  a  re- 
gister of  proclamations  from  the  23d  of  May  1699,  to  the  6th  of 
January  1727.  Another  similar,  from  9th  April  1727  till  16th  April 


KINROSS. 


11 


1770.  A  register  of  burying-grounds ;  and  a  register  of  deaths 
from  1733  to  1735.  Loose  minutes  beginning  the  4th  of  July  1754, 
and  ending  6th  March  1771.  From  1772  the  session  records  are 
complete ;  and  now  every  minute  is  subscribed  by  the  moderator. 

From  the  Session  records,  it  appears  to  have  been  the  practice 
more  than  a  century  ago,  of  a  part  of  the  kirk-session  visiting  the 
town  during  the  time  of  pubUc  worship,  and  making  a  report  to 
their  brethren. 

Antiquities,  §-c.— In  the  month  of  June  1820,  a  number  of  sil- 
ver coins  were  discovered  on  the  lands  of  Coldon,  to  the  south 
of  Kinross,  having  been  turned  up  by  workmen  in  one  of  the 
fields.    When  found,  they  were  quite  covered  with  a  black  coat- 
ing darker  than  the  earth  from  which  they  were  dug.    The  num- 
ber might  amount  from  300  to  400,  and  were  found  to  consist 
chiefly  of  the  coinage  of  Edward  the  First  and  Edward  the  Second 
of  England.    They  were  of  the  denomination  commonly  called 
silver  pennies,  and  seem  to  have  come  from  various  mints,  e.  g. 
London,  Canterbury,  York,  Durham,  Lincoln,  and  Dublin.  Some 
of  them,  instead  of  having  the  place  of  coinage,  had  on  the  reverse 
the  name  Robert  de  Hadeleir  surrounding  the  X  .   Along  with  these 
English  coins,  a  few  Scotch  were  found  of  Alexander  III.  and  John 
Baliol.    They  very  much  resembled  the  English  in  size  and  ap- 
pearance.   If  they  differed  in  any  thing,  it  was  that  they  were 
rather  more  handsome  : — the  King's  head  was  a  profile  with  a 
crown  and  sceptre  surrounded  by  Alexander  Dei  Gra.  and  Joannes 
Dei  Gra.    The  reverse  had  a  X  with  four  stars,  surrounded 
by  Rex  Scotorum.    When  and  how  these  coins  came  to  be  depo- 
sited in  the  place  where  they  were  discovered,  is  a  matter  of  con- 
jecture.   Most  probably,  they  had  been  lost  by  some  person  at- 
tached to  one  of  the  English  armies,  who,  in  the  period  of  the  so- 
vereigns referred  to,  and  thereafter,  so  frequently  occupied  the 
country  in  the  vicinity  of  Kinross,  for  the  purpose  of  getting  pos- 
session of  the  Castle  of  Lochleven,  or  of  overawing  that  fortress, 
then  a  place  of  considerable  strength  and  importance. 

In  the  month  of  April  1829,  some  labourers  employed  by  John 
W.  Williamson,  Esq.  Banker,  Kinross,  in  examining  his  grounds  at 
West  Green,  found,  about  two  feet  below  the  surface,  imbedded  in 
what  appeared  to  be  travelled  earth,  an  ancient  seal  of  pure  gold,  of 
a  circular  shape,  eight-tenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  two-tenths 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  It  has  two  small  wings  also  of  gold  joined  in 
the  centre  by  a  neat  hinge,  which  folds  flat  on  the  upper  side  of  the 
seal,  and  when  raised  serves  for  a  handle.   This  very  curious  piece  of 


12 


KINIIOSS-SI-IIRE. 


workmanship,  weighing  four  sovereigns,  appears  from  its  flat  shape 
to  have  been  intended  for  the  pocket ;  and  as  it  has  engraved  on  it 
the  royal  arms  of  Scotland  impaled  on  the  dexter  side,  with  those 
of  England  on  the  sinister,  it  was  at  once  considered,  according 
to  the  laws  of  heraldry,  as  the  private  seal  or  signet  of  a  Scottish 
King,  who  had  married  an  English  princess.  The  seal  was  shewn 
to  several  Edinburgh  antiquaries ;  and  among  others,  to  the  late 
Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  late  Sir  Patrick  Walker,  Mr  Auriol  Hay, 
and  Mr  William  Clerk,  all  of  whom  were  decidedly  of  opinion, 
that  it  was  the  personal  seal  of  the  unfortunate  James  IV.,  who 
fell  on  the  fatal  field  of  Flodden.  James,  it  is  well  known,  mar- 
ried Margaret,  daughter  of  Henry  VH.  of  England. 

The  seal  is  in  perfect  preservation,  and  affords  a  favourable 
view  of  the  art  of  engraving  in  Scotland  more  than  three  centu- 
ries ago.  How  this  relic  of  the  olden  time  found  its  way  to  Kin- 
ross, must  be  mere  conjecture ;  yet  is  it  no  great  stretch  of  ima- 
gination, that  the  ill-fated  Mary  had  possession  of  this  memorial 
of  her  grandfather,  and  may  have  dropt  it  in  making  her  escape 
from  the  Castle  of  Lochleven  ?  A  more  probable  opinion  may  be 
hazarded,  which  is,  that  James  himself  may  have  lost  this  seal 
while  hunting  or  travelling  from  his  palace  of  Falkland  to  Stirling, 
Kinross  being  in  the  direct  line  betwixt  these  two  royal  residences. 
This  view  is  strengthened  by  the  fact,  that  there  was  found  at  the 
same  time  with  the  seal,  and  within  a  few  yards  of  it,  the  corrod- 
ed fragment  of  a  horse's  shoe, — a  circumstance  which  would  lead 
us  to  suppose,  that  the  royal  charger,  in  losing  a  shoe,  had  stum- 
bled, and  thrown  his  rider,  when  the  seal  dropt  from  his  person. 

In  1822,  the  proprietor  of  Lathro,  on  trenching  some  of  his 
grounds  which  had  been  planted  sixty  or  seventy  years  before, 
came  upon  thirteen  graves,  which  did  not  appear  to  contain  any 
coffins ;  but  in  one  of  them  were  two  bodies,  and  a  skull  filled  with 
undecayed  teeth.  This  burying-ground  "was  on  an  eminence  be- 
side the  ground  trenched,  and  called  the  Gallows  Know,  and  hence 
it  is  naturally  supposed  to  have  been  the  place  of  publid  execu- 
tion. This  burying-ground  must  have  been  used  before  the  abo- 
lition of  heritable  jurisdictions,  and  when  the  proprietors  of  the 
estate  of  Kinross  had  the  power  of  pit  and  gallows.  With  regard 
to  the  bodies  discovered,  they  were  again  committed  to  the  earth, 
and  the  spot  where  they  were  found  has  been  planted  anew. 

The  Castle  of  Lochleven,  so  far  back  as  1257,  was  a  royal  re- 
sidence.   We  read  that,  in  that  year,  Alexander  HI.  and  his  youth- 


KINROSS. 


13 


ful  queen  were  forcibly  laid  hold  upon  in  this  place,  and  carried  off 
to  Stirling.  In  Balfour's  Annals,  we  have  mention  made  of  Sir  John 
Corny n  in  1301  raising  the  siege  of  Lochleven,  then  besieged  by  the 
English.  In  1 3.35,  as  has  been  related  by  Buchanan,  Abercromby, 
Sir  David  Dalrymple,  (and  for  a  particular  account  of  which 
transaction  see  Fordiini  Scotichromcon,  Vol.  ii.  p.  313,  Edinburgh, 
1759,  folio,)  Sir  John  Strevelyn  invested  Lochleven,  at  that  time 
held  by  Alan  Vypont,  in  the  interest  of  David  II.  and  was  compel- 
led to  raise  the  siege  with  great  loss.  '  In  1429,  Archibald  Earl 
of  Douglas,  on  account  of  some  inconsiderate  speeches  against 
his  sovereign  James  I.,  was  committed  a  prisoner  to  the  same 
castle ;  and  in  1477,  Patrick  Graham,  an  eminent  dignitary  of  the 
Scottish  Church,  and  Archbishop  of  St  Andrews,  was,  by  a  sen- 
tence of  deprivation  and  imprisonment  pronounced  by  Pope  Sextus 
VI.  (1484),  and  a  college  of  cardinals,  committed  first  to  a  cell  in 
Inchcolm,  removed  thence  to  the  monastery  of  Dunfermline,  and 
lastly,  for  greater  security,  to  Lochleven,  where  he  died,  and  whence 
his  mortal  remains  were  carried  to  the  island  of  St  Serf.  The 
Earl  of  Northumberland,  who  had  taken  refuge  in  Scotland  to 
avoid  the  effects  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  displeasure,  was  also  con- 
signed to  Lochleven  Castle  in  1 569.   The  then  ruling  party  placed 
and  kept  him  there  for  three  years,  when  he  was  removed  to  Eng- 
land, and  there  put  to  death  by  his  sovereign. 

But  all  these  are  unimportant  events  in  comparison  of  those  that 
befel  a  Queen  of  Scotland,  the  most  illustrious  and  most  interest- 
ing, perhaps,  that  ever  swayed  a  sceptre,  by  her  beauty  and  per- 
sonal qualities,  as  well  as  the  lengthened  train  of  calamities  to 
which  she  was  subjected,  and  the  termination  of  a  captivity  of 
twenty  years,  on  a  scaffold,  by  the  hands  of  the  pubhc  executioner. 
It  appears  from  a  deed  printed  in  Laing's  "  Dissertation  on  the 
Murder  of  Darnley,"  and  entitled  "  Act  for  sequestrating  the 
Quenis  Majesties  person,  and  detening  the  same  in  the  hous  and 
place  of  Lochlevin,  16  June  1567;"'  that  the  unfortunate  Mary 
was  in  Lochleven  on  the  16th  June  1567.    None  acquainted 
with  her  eventful  and  tragical  story  can  be  ignorant  of  the  man- 
ner of  her  escape,  on  Sunday  the  2d  of  May  1568.    We  are 
informed,  in  the  history  of  Mary's  escape  from  Lochleven,  that 
when  her  deliverer  had  opened  the  gates  of  the  castle  and  shut 
them  again,  he  threw  the  keys  into  the  lake.      Now,  it  is 
not  undeserving  of  record,  that,  at  the  close  of  the  very  dry 
autumn  of  1805,  when  the  lake  was  uncommonly  low,  a  boy,  who 


14 


KINROSS-SHIRK. 


had  been  sauntering  along  its  brink,  picked  up  a  bunch  of  keys, 
which  he  carried  immediately  to  the  parish  schoolmaster,  the  late 
Mr  John  Taylor, — in  whose  possession  the  writer  of  this  account 
has  frequently  had  occasion  to  see  them.  They  were  very  rusty, 
and  fastened  by  an  iron  ring,  which  mouldered  away  on  being  rub- 
bed by  the  hand.  Mr  Taylor  sent  them  to  the^  late  Earl  of  Mor- 
ton, heritable  keeper  of  Lochleven,  from  whom  he  received  a  suit- 
able gratuity  to  the  finder,  L.  5  to  the  poor,  and  a  handsome  silver 
inkholder  to  himself. 

Modern  Buildings. — The  latest  of  these,  and  the  most  conspi- 
cuous from  whatever  quarter  it  is  viewed,  is  the  parish  church,  first 
employed  for  public  worship  on  the  1 1th  of  March  1832.  Before 
1 742  the  parish  church  stood  within  the  old  burying-ground,  im- 
mediately beside  the  lake.  It  was  then  removed  from  this  situa- 
tion to  another  at  the  west  of  the  town,  which,  gradually  extend- 
ing its  dimensions,  came  at  length  to  place  the  church  in  its  centre, 
as  well  as  in  the  very  front  of  the  most  frequented  inn. 

The  situation  of  this  second  church  being  very  inconvenient,  at 
the  same  time  that  it  was  also  inadequate  in  size  for  the  growing 
population,  a  handsome  edifice  of  the  Gothic  kind  has  been  erect- 
ed on  a  rising  ground  adjoining  the  manse,  and  altogether  removed 
from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  town  thoroughfare.  It  cost 
L.  1537,  lis.  6d. 

The  County  Hall,  which  is  also  the  public  gaol,  is  a  still  finer 
building.  It  was  finished  in  1826,  and  costL.2000,  ofwhich  L.  750 
formed  a  grant  from  Government,  and  the  remainder  was  raised  by 
a  voluntary  assessment  from  the  heritors  of  the  county,  according 
to  the  old  valued  rent.  It  consists  of  a  course  of  apartments,  ofwhich 
there  are  2  for  the  sheriff-clerk,  1  record  room  and  safe,  1  court 
room,  1  witnesses  room,  3 debtors  rooms,  2  cells,  and  a  guard-room. 

There  are  three  mills  within  the  parish,  the  first  and  most  im- 
portant of  which  goes  by  the  name  of  Kinross  mill,  and  is  for 
all  manner  of  grain  ;  the  second,  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  town,  is  Balleave,  once  for  grain,  but  now  employed  in  the  new 
tartan  manufactory ;  the  third,  at  West  Tillyochie,  about  three 
miles  from  Kinross,  once  also  occupied  in  grinding  corn,  but 
within  these  few  months,  taken  in  lease  by  one  of  the  three  tartan 
manufacturing  companies  here  for  the  purposes  of  carding  and  spin- 
ning of  wool  on  an  extended  scale ;  the  first  attempt  of  the  kind 
in  this  quarter,  but  only,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  the  commencement  of  a 
new  era  of  our  manufacturing  industry. 


KINROSS.  15 

III. — Population. 
The  population  of  the  parish  has  been  on  the  increase  ever 
since  it  was  examined  into. 

In  1735,  it  was  1310 

1792,  .  1839 

1801,         .  21'24 

1811,         .  2214 

and  in  1831,  .  2927 

Among  the  more  usual  causes  of  the  increase  of  population 
may  be  noticed  a  mortification,  as  it  is  termed,  of  land  to  the  value 
of  from  L.  80  to  L.  100  of  yearly  rent,  which,  on  the  death  of  a 
female  of  eighty  years  of  age,  who  receives  an  annuity  of  L.  50, 
will  come  to  be  divided  among  the  domiciled  poor.  Such  bequest, 
it  is  greatly  to  be  feared,  may  prove  a  premium  to  idleness,  and  a 
strong  inducement  to  vagrants  to  terminate  their  wanderings  here. 
The  neighbourhood  of  coal,  and  the  cheapness  of  living,  may  al- 
so contribute  to  the  growing  population  of  the  parish. 

The  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kinross,  is  about  2200,  and 
of  the  rest  of  the  parish  727. 

The  number  of  proprietors  of  land  of  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50 
and  upwards,  (including  two  properties,  one  of  which  belongs  to 
the  British  Linen  Company,  and  the  other  is  disponed  in  trust 
to  the  heritors  of  this  parish,)  is  25. 

From  a  census  made  for  this  work,  the  number  of  inhabited 
houses  in  Kinross  appears  to  be  566 ;  of  these  unlet,  26 ;  in  ruins,  5. 

There  are  3  persons  in  the  parish  more  or  less  insane  or  fatu- 
ous, but  not  requiring  confinement ;  4  blind,  4  deaf  and  dumb, 
and  1  in  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution,  Edinburgh. 

Character  of  the  People. — The  general  character  of  the  people 
as  to  intellect,  morals,  and  religion,  is  not  inferior  to  that  of  the 
people  of  many  parishes  in  like  circumstances.  There  is  not  in 
their  number  one  professed  infidel ;  and  there  exists  among  them 
a  general  external  reverence  for  the  Sabbath  and  its  public  ordi- 
nances ;  not  a  few  of  them  being  of  exemplary  Christian  character, 
and  of  eminent  Christian  qualifications.  Affability,  hospitality,  and 
a  readiness  to  serve  and  oblige  to  the  utmost  of  their  power, — nay, 
sometimes  beyond  what  a  regard  to  their  own  private  and  family 
interests  would  dictate, — are  peculiarities  in  the  habits  of  many  of 
this  place  and  vicinity,  which,  to  strangers  who  have  come  to  fix 
their  residence  here,  have  been  the  subject  of  pleasing  observation 
and  of  grateful  experience. 

Poaching,  it  must  be  confessed,  is  still  too  much  practised 
both  in  the  fields  and  in  the  tributary  streams  of  Loch  Leven.  In 


IG 


KINIIOSS-SHIRE. 


the  first  case,  it  receives  no  check  from  any  public  association, 
and  next  to  none  from  any  individual  whatsoever.  In  the  last  case, 
it  is  not  unfrequent,  at  certain  seasons,  even  on  Sabbath,  nay,  par- 
ticularly on  that  day,  especially  among  the  young.  It  is  gratify- 
ing to  think  that  smuggling  has  almost  disappeared. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — In  consequence  of  a  very  large  proportion  of  the 
lands  of  this  parish  being  in  the  occupation  of  proprietors,  it  is  not 
easy  to  arrive  at  a  correct  state  of  the  number  and  value  of  its  acres. 
But,  from  repeated  surveys  and  examinations  of  the  parish  minis- 
ter, followed  up  by  those  of  five  of  his  parishioners  peculiarly 
well  qualified  to  obtain  and  to  communicate  the  wished-for  infor- 
mation, the  following  results,  although  not  mathematically  exact, 
may  be  considered  as  no  distant  approximation  to  the  truth  : — 

The  whole  of  the  arable  acres  may  be              -             -  5240 

Those  still  in  their  natural  state,  but  susceptible  of  improvement,  121 

Those  under  planting,                -              -                 -  213 

Those  under  buildings,  fences,  &c.                 -                -  24 

5600 

The  kinds  of  trees  generally  planted  are,  larch,  Scotch  fir,  and 
spruce.  Those  of  the  oldest  standing  are  round  the  mansion-house, 
while  those  recently  planted  on  the  trust-estate  of  Kinross,  and  on 
the  lands  of  Lethangie,  Lathro,  Easter  Balado,  &c.  are  both  hard 
wood  and  fir.    The  whole  seem  well  attended  to  and  thriving. 

Rent. — The  old  valued  rent  of  the  parish  is  L.  4006,  6s.  8d. 
Scotch.  The  real  rent  is  L.  9175  Sterling:  the  minimum  rent 
per  acre  is  17s.  the  maximum  L.  5,  the  average  rent  L.  I,  12s. 
lOfd.  The  average  rent  of  grazing  an  ox  or  cow  is  from  L.  3, 
lOs.  to  L.  4,  and  one-third  of  that  for  a  ewe  or  full-grown  sheep. 

The  gross  rental  of  land  in  the  parish  is,  •  -  L.  9175    0  0 

House  property  in  town  of  Kinross,  -  -  3478    9  6 

Garden  ground,  do.  .  _  .  .  195    8  1^ 

L.  12,848  17  7i 

Average  of  Annual  Produce. — 

704  acres  wheat,  average  produce  4  quarters  per  acre,  282  qrs.  0  bush. 

483  do.  barley,         do.  5  do.  2415  0 

1191  do.  oats,  do.  5  do.  3  bush.  do.  6401  5 

200  do.  potatoes,       do.  8f  tons  per  acre,  1750  tons. 

200  do.  turnip,         do.  23ido.  6580  do. 

280  do.  summer  fallow. 

722  do.  sown  grass  hay  produce   1  \  ton  per  acre,  1083  do. 

Average  value  of  Raw  Produce. — 

282  quarters  wheat,  at  L.  2,  6s.  per  quarter,  -  .  L.  648  12  0 

2415     do.     barley,  at  L.  1, 8s.       do.        -  .  3381    0  0 

6401     do.  5  bush,  oats,  at  L.  1         do.  -  .  -  6401  12  6 


KINROSS. 


17 


J730  tons  potatoes,  at  L.  1,  7s.  per  ton,           -             -  L.  2362  10  0 

6580  do.  turnip,  at  4s.  per  do.              ...  1316    0  0 

1083  do.  sown  grass  hay,  at  L.  3  do.              -             -  -      3249    0  0 

2004  acres  pasture,  at  I..  1, 12s.  per  acre,              -             -  3206    8  0 

Loch  fishing,                 -             -             -             -  -        204    0  0 

Market  customs,            -             .             -             -  -         66  00 


L.  20,835   2  6 

The  whole  is  calculated  by  the  Scotch  acre.  — —  

Feu-duty  paid  to  Kinross  estate  from  this  parish,  -  L.  313  17  O 

do.  to  Aldie     do.  -  -  -  -  13    8  6 


L.  327    5  6 

Number  of  families  of  proprietors,  farmers,  &c.  in  the  country,  150 
male  servants,  -  -  -  94 

female  servants,        ...  47 

cottars,  ....  339 

horses  in  the  parish,  ...  274 
colts,  ....  52 
bulls,              ....  9 

cows,        ....  332 

calves,  ....  329 

•other  cattle,  ...  646 

«heep,  ....  367 

swine,       ....  146 

carts,  -  -  -  -  138 

ploughs,  ...  76 

harrows,  ....  77  pairs, 

quarries,  -  -  g 

There  are  22  thrashing-machines  in  the  parish,  one  of  which  is 


impelled  by  steam,  one  by  water,  and  the  others  by  horses. 
Soils. — Extent  of  surface  about  6600  acres : 

Whereof  2000  acres  are  a  deep  black  alluvial  soil  incumbent  on  sand  or  gravel,  the 
substrata  of  part  of  which  is  whin.rock ; 
1000  acres  light  sandy  soil  (thin)  incumbent  on  sand  or  dry  till; 
1400  acres  black  thin  loam,  on  a  cold  retentive  clay  or  till ; 
200  acres  cold  thin  clay,  subsoil,  barren  clay  mixed  with  weeping  sand  ; 
100  acres  moss,  on  a  cold  weeping  sand  and  clay  mixed  ; 
700  acres  light  black  moorish  soil,  on  a  moorband  sterile -subsoil ; 
200  acres  uncultivated  and  under  wood,  the  soil  and  subsoil  of  such  a  tex- 
ture as  that  of  the  preceding  700  acres. 

The  various  cattle-shows  which  are  frequently  held  here  and 
in  the  adjoining  districts,  have  contributed  not  a  little  to  the  im- 
provement of  farm  stock.  It  is  humbly  suggested,  that  the  great- 
est advantages  would  follow  if  prizes,  whether  as  medals  or  sums  of 
money,  were  distributed,  not  only  to  such  as  rear  the  best  horses, 
bulls,  and  cows,  &c.  but  to  such  as,  in  the  judgment  of  competent 
arbiters,  had  most  distinguished  themselves  by  draining,  irrigating, 
embanking,  destroying  weeds  and  vermin,— by  the  condition  of  their 
enclosures, — by  the  nature  of  their  management  and  crops, — by  the 
neatness  and  cleanliness  with  which  they  surrounded  their  dwel- 
lings, and  the  prder  as  well  as  comfort  which  prevailed  within 
them. 

KINROSS.  '  B 


18 


KINROSS-SIIIRE. 


The  general  duration  of  leases  is  nineteen  years.  The  state 
of  farm-buildings,  enclosures,  &c.  has  of  late  undergone  a  very 
striking  change  to  the  better:  and  the  same  improvement  is  observ- 
able in  the  roads,  fences,  husbandry,  &c.  throughout  the  parish. 
Rents  of  several  properties  have,  within  the  last  thirty  years,  been 
more  than  doubled.  An  estate  in  the  parish  which  was  sold  forty 
years  ago  for  L.  10,000,  was  purchased  last  year  for  L.  35,500. 

Fisheries. — There  is  but  one  fishery,  that  of  Loch  Leven,  which 
commences,  if  frost  permit,  on  the  first  of  January,  and  closes  on 
the  first  of  September.  It  was  lately  let  at  the  yearly  rent  of  L.  204. 
The  former  rent  was  L.  230,  and  this  diminution  has  arisen 
from  the  partial  drainage  of  Loch  Leven  being  regarded  as  un- 
favourable to  the  lake,  viewed  as  a  fishing-pond. 

Manufactures. —  Kinross  was,  of  old,  famous  for  its  cutlery  ;  but 
now,  there  is  not  one  individual  in  the  parish  employed  in  that  oc- 
cupation. The  manufacture,  also,  of  Silesia  linens,  of  which  we 
read  in  the  last  Statistical  Account,  has  ceased.  Instead  of  these, 
there  are  ginghams,  pullicates,  checks,  &c.  the  materials  of  which 
are  sent  from  Glasgow.  But,  of  late,  tartan  shawls,  plaids,  and 
other  articles  of  dress  have  begun  to  be  wrought  by  three  com- 
panies residing  in  Kinross,  on  theii-  own  account,  with  every  pros- 
pect of  a  good  return,  besides  a  rise  of  the  wages  of  the  operative, 
and  an  increase  of  employment  to  our  female  population. 

There  is,  in  addition  to  the  two  kinds  of  work  mentioned,  a  ma- 
nufacture of  damasks  from  Dunfermline. 

The  number  of  weavers  of  the  first  description,  334 

second  do.  -  48 

third  do.  -  14 

Making  the  weaving  population  in  all,       -  -  396 

The  average  wages  of  an  industrious  cotton  weaver  are,  per  week, 
5s.  6d. ;  of  a  tartan  ditto,  14s.  The  condition  of  the  former  is  very 
fluctuating.  Sometimes  their  wages  are  very  low  ;  nor  is  it  at  all  an 
uncommon  occurrence  for  a  greater  or  less  number  of  them,  for  days 
and  weeks  together,  to  have  no  webs  from  Glasgow  at  all.  For  the 
removal,  or  at  least  the  alleviation,  of  this  distressing  situation, 
heritors  and  others,  whose  circumstances  permitted,  have  occa- 
sionally come  forward  to  purchase  materials  of  industry,  or  to  pro- 
vide out-of-door  occupation. 

It  is  the  practice  with  our  weavers,  and  others  of  the  labouring 
classes,  to  apply  to  proprietors  and  farmers  for  as  much  land  as 
will  be  sufficient  for  planting  a  certain  quantity  of  potatoes,  which 


KINROSS. 


19 


they  obtain  on  condition  merely  of  their  giving  manure,  and  hoe- 
ing the  drills  of  the  young  plants,  when  necessary.  This  practice 
deserves  to  be  encouraged,  for-  to  those  accustomed  to  sit  for  hours 
at  the  loom,  it  affords  health  and  relaxation  in  the  open  air,  be  - 
sides supplying,  at  an  expense  which  none  of  them  feels,  an  article 
of  food  most  nutritious  and  valuable. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Town. — The  town  of  Kinross,  though  not  a  Royal  burgh,  has  long 
enjoyed  a  species  o{  municipal  institution,  which  has  been  particu- 
larly useful  for  certain  public  purposes ;  the  principal  of  which 
are,  lighting  of  the  streets,  supporting  a  bell  and  clock,  a  fire 
engine,  steelyard,  &c.  Having  no  public  funds,  the  inhabi- 
tants have  long  had  recourse  to  an  annual  voluntary  contribution, 
which  is  placed  under  the  management  and  control  of  a  preses, 
treasurer,  and  clerk,  who,  with  eight  or  sometimes  ten  members  of 
committee,  constitute  a  sort  of  town-council,  so  far  as  the  above 
matters  go  :  they  are  annually  chosen  at  a  public  meeting,  having, 
in  the  first  instance,  the  trouble  of  collecting  the  contributions,  of 
which,  for  the  ensuing  year,  they  have  the  sole  charge ;  but  for 
the  management  of  which  they  are  at  all  times  subject  to  be  called 
to  account  at  a  public  meeting  of  the  inhabitants. 

This  useful  institution,  designed  "  The  Steeple  Committee," 
commenced  in  1742,  when  at  a  pubhc  meeting  of  the  inhabitants, 
the  Rev.  Robert  Stark,  minister  of  the  parish,  chairman,  it  was 
agreed,  "  That,  considering  it  was  in  contemplation  to  build  anew 
church,  a  steeple  might  with  great  propriety  be  added  thereto." 
This  after  much  care  and  assiduity  was  completed  in  1751,  when 
Sir  John  Bruce  presented  the  town  with  a  clock.  At  a  meeting 
during  the  same  year,  the  following  appears  on  the  record  :  "  that 
the  bell  shall  be  rung  at  five  in  the  morning ;  eight  and  ten  at 
night ;  and  on  Sundays,  at  eight,  nine,  and  ten  in  the  forenoon, 
and  that  the  last  bell  for  divine  service  shall  continue  ringing  a 
quarter  of  an  hour." — 17th  July  1758.  "  The  principal  Lord  of 
the  CAa/Jwera" compeared,  and  gave  half  a  crown  for  carrying  on 
the  finishing  of  the  steeple,"  which  seems  to  have  been  the  addi- 
tion of  a  vane  or  weathercock.  In  1793  the  streets  were  first 
lighted  by  lamps.  At  present  (1839)  the  number  of  lamps  is 
about  42  ;  all  lighted  with  gas. 

The  annual  collections  vary  from  L.  20  to  L.  25,  which,  with 
an  annual  donation  of  L.  5  from  the  road  trustees,  constitute  the 
only  funds  for  the  purposes  above  referred  to. 


20 


KINHOSS-SHIllK. 


In  connection  with  the  town,  it  may  be  noticed  that  tlie  Curhng 
Club  of  Kini'oss  is  of  very  ancient  date.  In  1818,  a  committee  of 
this  club  reported,  that  they  had  ascertained  beyond  a  doubt  that 
"  curling"  had  been  practised,  and  the  adjuncts,  of  a  "  court," 
regular  mysteries  and  ceremonies,  preserved  entire,  for  at  least  150 
years  previous  to  that  period. 

Kinross,  which  is  the  only  town  in  the  parish,  had  once  a  weekly 
market  on  Tuesday ;  but  now  it  seems  to  be  transferred  to  Milna- 
thort, in  the  parish  of  Orwell,  which  is  not  two  miles  distant,  and 
holds  every  Wednesday.  It  is  a  post-town,  where  letters  from  the 
south  arrive  every  evening  about  9,  and  every  morning  at  the  same 
hour :  and  from  the  north  at  2  a.  m.  and  4  p.  m. 

For  the  gratuitous  delivery  of  letters,  for  a  branch  of  the  British 
Linen  Bank,  and  for  other  conveniences  and  advantages,  Kinross 
stands  indebted  to  the  active  and  kind  interference  of  Sir  James 
Montgomery. 

Turnpike  Roads.- — These,  and  particularly  the  great  north  road, 
are  in  excellent  order.    They  extend  to  sixteen  miles. 

Public  carriages  running  in  the  parish  are  three  in  number;  one 
of  them  is  the  Royal  Mail  from  Edinburgh  to  Aberdeen  ;  another 
is  the  Defiance  stage-coach,  which  has  been  employed  for  some 
months  past  as  a  conveyer  of  letters  from  Edinburgh  to  the  north ; 
the  third  coach  is  the  Saxe  Cobourg  from  Edinburgh  for  Perth. 
Ere  a  second  mail  or  a  substitute  for  one  was  started,  which  was 
only  some  months  ago,  the  old  one  passing  in  the  Sabbath  morn- 
ing betwixt  two  and  three,  and  in  the  evening  betwixt  seven  and 
eight,  gave  little  annoyance  to  the  serious  part  of  our  community. 
But  the  neAv  mail,  in  its  journeyings  north  and  south,  is  viewed  and 
felt  in  a  very  different  light.    The  Presbytery  of  Dunfermline,  to 
which  Kinross  parish  belongs,  has  attempted,  along  with  that  of 
Edinburgh  and  others,  but  hitherto  without  success,  to  remove  this 
Sabbath  desecration.    The  consequence  of  no  stop  being  put  to 
the  running  on  the  Lord's  day  has  been  melancholy.    At  first,  the 
new  mail  coach  was,  on  Sabbath,  generally  empty.    Now,  there 
is  little,  if  any,  difference  in  the  number  of  its  passengers  on  Sab- 
bath, and  the  number  on  any  other  day. 

The  bridges  which  connect  Kinross  parish  with  the  parishes  of 
Orwell,  Cleish,  and  Fossaway,  together  with  those  within  itself, 
of  any  considerable  size,  are  13  in  number,  all  of  stone,  chiefly 
white  freestone,  and  in  good  condition.  The  fences  are  chiefly 
of  dry  stone,  something  like  the  old  Galloway  dikes.    There  are 


KINROSS. 


21 


also,  throughout  the  parish,  quickset  thorn  hedges,  sometimes  in- 
terspersed with  beeches.  These,  when  ^Dlanted  in  a  good  soil,  and 
duly  attended  to,  become  a  complete  protection  to  the  fields  they 
enclose,  and  an  ornament  to  the  country.  But,  from  the  poverty 
and  shallowness  of  the  land  in  which  young  plants  are  often  set, 
and  still  more  from  leaving  them  almost  entirely  to  themselves* 
and  driving  stakes  through  the  heart  of  them,  and  neither  preserv- 
ing them  from  the  inroads  of  cattle,  nor  being  at  any  pains  to  fill 
up  gaps, — they  become  worse  than  useless,  and  an  eye-sore. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — Of  the  parish  church,*  as  one  of  the  new- 
buildings  of  Kinross,  some  mention  has  already  been  made.  It 
may  be  added,  that  it  is  not  four  miles  distant  from  the  extremity 
of  the  parish.  It  is  in  the  Gothic  style.  Its  architect,  Mr  George 
Angus,  built  subsequently,  and  much  after  the  same  design,  the 
churches  of  TuUiallan  and  Kettle. 

Connected  with  this  new  church,  the  only  benefaction  was  from 
an  individual,  who  mentions  it  entirely  from  the  wish  and  hope 
that  it  may  contribute  to  a  great  public  good,  and  lead  others,  as 
it  has  already  done  in  one  instance,  to  follow  his  example.  The 
example  which  is  now  referred  to,  is  a  donation  of  L.  100  to  make 
sure  that  this  new  church  should  be  built.  There  was  also  sub- 
scribed by  the  same  person,  as  much  more  for  pews  to  himself,  and 
to  others  who  might  require  them,  and  from  whom  he  has  never 
once  applied  for  seat  rents  or  any  thing  in  the  shape  of  such  ;  al- 
though, it  must  be  added,  that  some  who  are  most  accustomed 
to  earn  their  daily  bread  with  the  sweat  of  their  brow,  are  the  most 
unwilling  to  permit  themselves  to  lie  under  what  they  regard  a  pe- 
cuniary obligation. 

On  the  11th  of  March  1832,  the  new  church  was  opened  for 
public  worship;  and  it  is  worthy  of  notice,  that,  within  a  year  there- 
after, nearly  200  names  were  added  to  the  minister's  visitation 
roll ;  and  that  since  the  above  day,  there  has  not  been  a  single  Sab- 

*  The  bell  was  got  from  London  after  the  building  of  the  new  church,  and  vvas 
substituted  for  the  bell  which  belonged  to  the  old  church,  and  which  was  permitted  to 
remain  in  the  old  steeple  once  connected  with  the  old  church,  but  now  standing  by  it- 
self in  the  centre  of  the  town.  A  still  older  bell  of  the  same  church,  and  which  was 
rendered  useless  on  some  days  of  public  rejoicing  had  this  legend  : 
"  VocoaA  verbum,  verbum  ad  Chrislum. 

How  much  in  sense  and  in  sound  does  the  legend  of  our  tower  bell  suffer  in  com- 
parison, 

Invito  ad  verbum,  verbum  ad  Christum  !" 
And  to  whom,  acquainted  with  the  writings  of  Po])e,  does  it  not  suggest  the  well- 
known  lines  : 

"  To  ease  thccusliion  and  soft  Dean  invite, 
Who  never  mentions  Hell  to  cars  polite  !" 


22 


KINllOSS-SHIKE. 


bath  without  public  worship  in  the  new  building.    It  is  still  in 
good  repair. 

The  old  manse,  inhabited  by  the  Rev.  Robert  Stark,  who  was 
ordained  minister  here  more  than  one  hundred  years  ago,  still  exists 
near  the  inlet  of  the  loch,  at  the  south  of  the  town,  into  which  it 
is  said  the  boat  was  rowed  which  carried  Mary,  from  the  island. 
The  new  manse  was  built  in  1784,  after  the  admission  to  the 
charge  of  this  parish,  of  the  last  incumbent,  the  Rev.  Archibald 
Smith.  In  1812,  and  subsequently,  additions  and  improvements 
have  been  rnade  to  it,  both  by  heritors  and  the  present  minister. 
L.  600  have  not  sufficed  for  the  outlay  of  the  latter  on  the  house, 
the  offices,  and  the  grounds  around  them. 

The  glebe,  at  the  admission  of  the  present  incumbent,  consisted 
of  about  six  acres,  including  the  stance  of  manse  and  garden. 
After  a  process  at  law  commenced  by  him  in  1811,  and  not  6nal- 
ly  concluded  until  1825,  he  ultimately  succeeded  in  establishing 
his  claim  to  grass  for  a  horse  and  two  cows.  About  five  acres,  in 
the  near  vicinity  of  the  manse,  have  been  added  to  his  former 
glebe,  all  of  good  quality,  and  worth  more  than  L.  40  per  annum. 

Stipend. — The  stipend  of  the  parish  consists  of  the  following 
items,  viz. :  barley,  31  bolls,  6  pecks  ;  oatmeal,  94  bolls,  |  peck ; 
money,  L.  94,  6s.  7j'^gd. ;  amounting,  communibus  annis,  accord- 
ing to  the  Third  Report  of  the  Commissioners  for  Religious  Instruc- 
tion, to  L.  184,  16s.  4d. 

The  first  and  last  augmentation  obtained  during  the  present  in- 
cumbency, was  on  the  8th  of  December  1806;  and  the  present 
incumbent  has  not  made  another  effort  to  add  to  the  comparatively 
inferior  stipend  he  possesses,  although,  according  to  the  above- 
mentioned  Report  of  the  Commissioners  for  Religous  Instruction, 
there  are  in  this  parish  unappropriated  teinds  to  the  amount  of 
L.  116,  16s.  9d. 

Dissenting  and  Seceding  Chapels. — There  are  two  places  of  wor- 
ship in  this  parish  pertaining  to  the  United  Secession  Churchy  for- 
merly the  Bu7'gher  and  Aniiburgker  communions.  Their  minis- 
ters are  paid  by  seat  rents.  The  amount  of  the  stipend  of  the  one 
minister  is  L.  120,  and  of  the  other  L.  80,  besides  a  house  and  gar- 
den. 

The  number  of  persons  of  all  ages  belonging  to  the  Establish- 
ed Church  is  1240.  Seceding  and  Dissenting  ministers  having 
no  parochial  territory,  the  range  of  their  spiritual  labours  is  uncir- 
cumscribed,  and  accordingly  their  Sabbath  and  week  day-ministra- 


KINROSS. 


23 


tions  extend  to  individuals  within  every  parish  of  this  county  and 
even  beyond  it. 

The  average  amount  of  the  ordinary  collections  in  the  parish 
church  is  about  L.36  a-year. 

During  183S,  collections  were  made  for  the  four  schemes  of  the 
General  Assembly  of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  in  addition  to  one 
for  the  Auchterarder  case,  when  more  than  L,  18  was  collected 
or  subscribed.  There  are  also  different  other  collections  for  local 
purposes,  on  which  occasions  there  is,  on  the  part  of  the  congre- 
gation in  general,  no  want  of  liberahty.  The  amount  of  the  sums 
thus  received,  and  which  are  independent  of  the  weekly  collections 
for  the  poor,  was  L.  61,  16s.  8d.  for  1838. 

Societies  for  Religious  Purposes. — In  1812,  a  Religious  Society 
was  instituted  under  the  designation  of  the  Fife  and  Kinross-shire 
Bible  Society.  Soon  after  its  institution,  the  union  of  counties  was 
found  to  be  attended  with  inconveniences.  Accordingly,  a  Kinross- 
shire  Bible  Society  was  formed,  which  had  its  yearly  and  penny 
a-week  subscribers,  its  quarterly  committee  and  its  annual  general 
meetings,  the  last  alternately  at  Kinross  and  Milnathort.  The  Apo- 
cryphal controversy  led  to  the  sending  of  that  part  of  its  funds  which 
remained,  after  certain  distributions  agreed  upon  by  its  members,  to 
the  Edinburgh  Bible  Society.  Peace  and  charity,  and  active  co-ope- 
ration were  the  distinguishing  features  of  this  association.  But  of  late, 
different  communions  of  Christians,  with  those  who  take  the  deep- 
est interest  in  their  public  proceedings,  have  such  different,  and 
alas  !  often  such  conflicting  views  and  measures  which  they  consi- 
der of  paramount  importance,  that  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  there 
should  be  a  striking  diminution*  of  the  members  and  funds  of  the 
Society. 

There  are  in  Kinross  parish  three  Religious  Tract  Societies  con- 
nected with  the  three  congregations,  and  in  which  pious  and  be- 
nevolent ladies  take  a  most  efficient  part,  employing  their  stated 
visitings  for  the  distribution  of  these  tracts,  as  occasions  for  ac- 
quainting themselves  with  the  bodily  as  well  as  the  spiritual  wants 
and  distresses  of  the  individuals  whom  they  call  on. 

Ladies'  Society. — There  is  a  Society  of  considerable  standing 
here,  and  which  is  not  undeserving  of  being  classed  in  the  number 
of  Religious  Societies.  This  is  the  Ladies'  or  Female  Society. 
The  members  of  it  meet  together  monthly,  when  they  distribute 
a  certain  quantity  of  oatmeal  to  each  of  those  destitute  women, 
whom  they  shall  determine  upon  as  the  most  suitable  objects  of  re- 


24 


KINHOSS-SHIRE. 


lief.  Their  funds  arise  from  a  small  subscription  from  each  member 
of  5s.  on  her  entrance  ;  and  of  a  penny  a-week  or  4s.  4d.  a  year ; 
from  occasional  public  collections  ;  from  the  donations  of  indivi- 
duals, &c.  No  small  addition  was  made,  two  years  ago,  by  the 
proceeds  of  a  musical  festival  in  Kinross  mansion-house. 

The  two  congregations  of  the  United  Secession  Church  con- 
tribute to  the  sending  out  a  missionary  to  Jamaica,  and  maintain- 
ing him  while  there. 

There  are  three  prayer-meetings  here,  one  connected  with  the 
parish  church  congregation,  and  the  other  two  with  those  of  the 
United  Secession. 

Temperance  and  Abstinence  Societies. —  One  Society,  the  laws  of 
which  bound  its  members  to  refrain  from  all  ardent  spirits,  ex- 
cepting when  medicinally  required,  was  formed  some  years  ago, 
and  for  a  little  while  was  highly  popular;  but  dissension  springing 
up,  a  split  took  place,  and  it  became  extinct.  Within  the  present 
year,  1839,  another  Society  has  been  constituted,  called  a  Tee- 
total, the  object  of  which  is  to  put  an  end  to  the  use  as  well  as 
abuse,  not  only  of  ardent  spirits,  but  of  malt  liquor,  and  whatever 
contains  in  it  any  portion  of  alcohol.  It  is,  at  present,  in  high  re- 
pute, already  numbering  among  the  subscribers  to  its  obligations, 
of  men,  women,  boys,  and  girls,  more  than  430  names. 

Education. — Of  public  schools,  exclusive  of  the  labours  of  in- 
structors in  one  or  two  families  belonging  to  the  country  part  of 
the  parish,  there  are,  parochial  and  endowed,  1 ;  not  parochial, 
and  unendowed,  7  ;  taught  by  females,  4.  The  branches  of  in- 
struction in  these  schools  are  such  as  we  expect  and  are  accus- 
tomed to  meet  with  in  similar  situations.  Latin,  the  first  elements 
of  Greek,  geography,  the  use  of  the  terrestrial  globe,  are  con- 
fined to  the  parish  school.  The  salary  of  the  master  of  this  school 
is  L.  34,  4s.  4^d.  The  amount  of  his  fees  annually  is  about  L.  55. 
The  payment  of  the  greater  proportion  of  pupils  is  weekly. 

There  are  not  above  12  from  six  to  fifteen  years  of  age  who  can 
neither  write  nor  read.  To  the  benefits  of  education  the  people 
at  large  are  not  insensible.  If  there  be  any  exception,  it  is  with 
the  very  ignorant,  and  still  more  with  the  dissipated  and  depraved. 
No  part  of  the  parish  is  so  distant  as  to  prevent  school  attendance 
at  Kinross,  on  the  part  of  such,  at  least,  as  are  above  seven  or  eight 
years  of  age.  At  the  examination  of  schools  this  spring,  by  the 
presbytery,  more  than  one-seventh  of  the  whole  population  were 
found  to  be  in  attendance. 


KINROSS. 


25 


The  facilities  of  education  are  such,  that  there  is  not  a  single 
individual  in  the  parish  whom  destitute  circumstances  prevent  from 
obtaining  access  to  the  parish  school,  and  all  the  common  branches 
of  instruction.  The  late  Mr  James  Beveridge  of  Middle  Balado 
left  a  small  legacy  for  this  purpose.  The  kirk-session  and  heri- 
tors are  very  attentive  to  the  case  of  poor  children  who  require  to 
be  sent  to  school ;  and  the  schoolmaster  himself  is  very  liberal  of 
his  gratuitous  services. 

Libraries. — There  are  two  public  subscription  libraries  here. 
The  first  is  more  general,  and  under  the  management  of  a  com- 
mittee, of  which  the  three  clergymen  are  members,  along  with 
others.  The  second  is  the  Tradesmen's  Library,  chiefly  for  artisans 
and  operatives. 

There  are,  besides,  three  juvenile  libraries,  or  rather  small  se- 
lections of  books,  chiefly  of  such  as  are  suited  to  the  years  and 
capacities  of  the  scholars  of  the  Sabbath  classes,  and  almost  all 
of  a  strictly  religious  character.  These  are  purchased  by  public 
collections  at  the  church  doors,  or  by  individual  bounty. 

A  public  reading-room  is  in  contemplation.  It  is  proposed  to 
place  it  in  a  vacant  space  in  the  centrie  of  the  town,  and  to  set 
about  building  it  immediately. 

Friendly  Societies. — These,  four  in  number,  are,  according  to 
the  dates  of  their  institution,  as  follows  : — 1.  The  Weavers',  insti- 
tuted 25th  November  1756;  2.  The  Hammermen,  15th  June 
J  783;  3.  The  Friendly,  2d  September  1799;  4.  The  Brotherly, 
4th  January  1819. 

Savings  Bank. — In  May  1815,  such  a  provident  institution  was 
established  at  Kinross,  under  the  designation  of  Kinross-shire  Bank 
for  Savings,  and  although  at  its  commencement  it  had  to  encounter 
suspicion  and  misapprehension  on  the  part  of  many,  for  whose  bene- 
fit it  was  intended,  all  such  prejudices  were  so  completely  surmount- 
ed, that  nearly  L.  3000  of  deposits,  not  exceeding  L.  4  each,  were 
realized.  To  its  extensive  and  increasing  usefulness,  the  writer  of 
this  article  can  bear  his  clear  and  decided  testimony,  having  been 
actuary  from  its  beginning  till  its  dissolution  on  the  1st  of  January 
1833,  a  period  of  nearly  eighteen  years.  Into  the  particulars  that 
led  to  an  event  equally  unfortunate  and  unexpected,  it  would  be 
altogether  improper  to  enter.  Sufiice  it  to  say,  that  its  directors 
and  other  office-bearers,  who  gave  their  time  and  trouble  gratui- 
tously, and  the  members  who  along  with  them  contributed  to  an 
auxiliary  fund  of  upwards  of  L.  100,  were  the  only  individuals 


20 


KINROSS-SHIUE. 


connected  with  it,  subjected  to  any  pecuniary  loss.  Tlie  deposi- 
tors received  every  farthing  they  had  lodged  in  the  bank,  and  that, 
too,  with  bank  interest. 

Notwithstanding  the  fate  of  the  Savings  Bank,  and  the  trouble 
which  it  occasioned  to  its  managers,  a  new  one  has  of  late  been  set 
afoot,  and  promises  to  do  well.  A  new  provident  institution  has 
been  in  operation  since  May  1837.  It  transacts  with  the  branch 
of  the  British  Linen  at  Kinross,  receiving  three  instead  of  two  per 
cent-,  the  common  bank  interest,  and  handing  over  deposits  to  the 
British  Linen,  or  to  their  owners,  as  soon  as  they  amount  to  L.  5. 
There  is  in  this,  as  in  the  former  savings  establishment,  an  auxiliary 
fund. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  average  number  of  persons 
who  at  present  receive  parochial  aid  under  the  joint  management  of 
the  heritors  and  kirk-session  is  36 ;  add  for  occasional  paupers  4 ; 
total  40.  The  average  sum  allotted  to  each  per  week  is  from  Is. 
to  Is.  6d.  The  church  collections  in  the  support  of  the  poor  are 
from  L.  30  to  L.  36. 

These  collections,  together  with  mortcloth  dues,  (which  dues  of 
late  have  been  much  diminished,)  are  not  sufficient  to  prevent  an 
assessment,  which  it  is  no  wonder  that  heritors  should  dislike,  see- 
ing it  falls  entirely  on  them.  But  such  a  mode  of  provision  ought 
to  be  an  object  of  aversion  to  every  friend  of  the  best  interests  of 
the  poor  and  the  parish  at  large.  It  is  most  earnestly  to  be  wish- 
ed, that  what  is  tern)ed  the  Voluntary  principle,  and  which  many, 
besides  Churchmen,  think  has  nolhing  to  recommend  it  in  religion, 
should  have  the  fullest  scope,  and  be  more  than  ever  acted  on,  in 
the  maintenance  and  management  of  the  poor. 

A  very  common  and  commendable  mode  of  occasional  relief,  in 
cases  of  want  and  distress,  unforeseen  and  urgent,  is  for  two  or  more 
respectable  individuals  to  go  about  with  a  subscription  paper,  in 
which  they  insert  the  names  of  subscribers,  and  the  sums  which  ■ 
have  been  subscribed  and  paid. 

There  are  here  neither  alms  nor  poor-houses,  and  long  may  it 
be  so  ;  but  there  is  a  sum  of  L.  100  Scots  (L.  8,  6s.  8d.  Sterling,) 
distributed  annually  by  the  kirk-session  among  17  females  selected 
by  them,  and  whose  chief  recommendations  are  age,  destitution, 
and  bodily  infirmity.  Each  receives  10s.  with  the  exception  of 
the  last  chosen,  who  gets  only  6s.  8d.  These  females  are  said 
to  be  on  the  hospital  list,  because  the  distribution  made  to  them 
is  in  lieu  of  an- hospital,  which  Sir  William  Bruce  intended  to 


KINliOSS. 


27 


build  on  the  side  of  the  road  to  the  old  church-yard.  Of  this  in- 
tended building,  which  was  never  executed,  a  particular  account 
will  be  found  in  the  Acts  of  the  Scottish  Parliament  in  the  reign 
of  James  VII.  under  the  title  Sir  William  Bruce. 

It  may  be  noticed  farther,  that  a  sum  of  L.  100  was  mortified 
to  the  poor  of  the  parish  by  the  deceased  George  Graham,  Esq. 
of  Kinross.  This  sum  has  been  lent  to  the  heritors  of  the  parish, 
and  the  interest  of  it,  L.  5,  is  distributed  by  the  minister  of  the 
parish,  at  the  sight  of  the  proprietor  of  the  estate  of  Kinross. 

Prison. — There  is  one  jail  in  Kinross  parish,  in  which,  during 
the  last  year,  there  were  3  civil  and  36  criminal  prisoners.  This 
jail,  although  newly  built,  is  not  so  secure  as  to  prevent,  from 
time  to  time,  the  escape  of  the  worst  of  its  inmates.  Those  con- 
fined are  allowed  two  hours  of  open  air  abroad  every  day.  No  pro- 
vision is  made  for  ministerial  visitation  or  religious  instruction  to 
prisoners  ;  but  free  access  is  always  to  be  had  for  both  purposes. 

Police. — There  is  also  a  police  at  Kinross.  The  officer,  whose 
salary  is  14s.  per  week,  is  maintained  by  a  voluntary  assessment  on 
the  part  of  the  landed  proprietors.  His  duty  is  to  check  and  pre- 
vent all  disturbances  of  the  public  peace,  and  all  attacks  on  the  per- 
sons or  properties  of  the  lieges ;  also  to  seize  upon  and  to  send  off 
from  the  parish  the  host  of  vagrants  and  sturdy  beggars  from  all 
quarters,  who  were  once  a  far  greater  nuisance  than  now. 

Fairs. — There  are  four  yearly  fairs  or  markets  ;  the  first  on  the 
third  Wednesday  of  March,  old  style  ;  the  second  on  the  first  day 
of  June,  old  style  ;  the  third  on  the  third  Wednesday  of  July,  old 
style  ;  and  the  fourth  on-St  Luke's  day,  or  the  18th  of  October,  old 
style.  These  fairs  are  chiefly  for  cattle  ;  but  they  serve  likewise  for 
various  other  purposes  of  human  intercourse  and  transacting  toge- 
ther. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  these  public  occasions  are,  in  a  pe- 
cuniary view,  very  advantageous  to  Kinross. 

Inns,  Alehouses,  ^c. — There  are  two  principal  inns  here,  which, 
in  respect  of  the  accommodation  and  comfort  afforded  by  them  to 
the  traveller,  will  yield  to  none  from  Edinburgh  to  Inverness.  The 
inn  to  the  south  (Kirkland's)  keeps  o  post-chaises,  1  landau,  1 
hearse,  34  post-horses,  4  post-boys,  6  strappers,  1  hostler,  1  head 
waiter,  1  under  waiter,  4  female  servants,  one  of  whom  is  a  cook. 
That  to  the  north  (Kinross  Green  Inn,  or  Macgregor's,)  has  3 
post  chaises,  a  drosky  and  gig,  5  horses,  and  a  donkey ;  7  sta- 
bles; 4  post-boys,  7  strappers,  I  hostler,  1  head  waiter,  1  under 


28 


■KINU0SS-SII11U5. 


ditto,  3  female  servants.  An  inferior,  but  respectable  inn,  called 
the  Salutation,  near  the  middle  of  the  town,  has  3  horses  and  2 
gigs.  There  are  12  other  public-houses,  without  any  carriage  or 
horse,  and  of  which  2  only  have  stables.  Besides  the  beer  and  spi- 
rits sold  in  these  places  of  public  entertainment,  a  great  deal  is  sold 
and  drunk  in  back  rooms  of  spirit  shops  and  elsewhere. 

Fuel. — This  article,  of  prime  necessity,  is  here  cheap  and  good. 
Coal  is  brought  from  Kelty,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles  from  Kin- 
ross, and  from  Lumphinnan,  Lochgelly,  where  it  is  thought  supe- 
rior, at  the  distance  of  eight  miles.  The  coal  called  great  is,  at 
Kelty,  at  the  rate  of  S^d.  the  cwt..  Is.  2d.  4  cwt.,  4s.  8d.  16  cwt. 
or  4  loads,  which  is  the  usual  draught  of  a  single  cart,  although  at 
some  coal  hills  (Lumphinnan)  not  less  than  18  cwt.  are  given  for  4 
loads.  The  toll  exigible  for  a  single  cart  is  9d. ;  the  carriage  from 
Kelty  paid  to  a  carter  is  2s.  6d. ;  ditto  from  Lochgelly,  3s.  Small 
coal  or  chews,  as  they  are  called,  are  Is.  2d.  per  cart-load  cheaper 
than  great  coal.  Peat  is  got  in  the  parishes  of  Portmoak  and 
Cleish,  but  is  not  used  except  for  some  special  purposes. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 

The  division  which,  at  one  time,  so  much  prevailed  of  land  into 
what  was  termed  infield  and  outfield,  the  former  only  being  in  a 
state  of  regular  cultivation,  and  called  mucked  or  dunged  land,  the 
latter  being  in  a  state  of  nature  or  just  breaking  up,  under  no  rota- 
tion, has  disappeared  ;  and  where  there  is  no  insuperable  obstacle, 
every  spot  is  brought  under  the  plough,  or  will  be  so  immediately.* 

The  value  of  manure  is  now  completely  appreciated.  With  the 
exception  of  ashes,  it  finds  a  ready  market  at  5s.  a  ton. 

At  the  period  of  the  former  Statistical  Account,  there  was  no 
banking  establishment  in  Kinross;  now,  it  has  aU  this  accommodation 
from  a  branch  of  the  British  Linen,  where  business  is  conducted 
with  an  attention,  correctness,  courtesy,  and  liberality,  worthy  of 
that  highly  respectable  house. 

Gas  Establishment. —  On  the  23d  of  March  1835,  a  company 
was  formed  here,  called  the  Gas  Light  Company  of  Kinross  and 
Milnathort.  The  number  of  its  shares  is  500,  and  they  are  held  by 
134  individuals.  Each  share  is  L.  5,  and  the  capital  of  the  Com- 
pany amounts  to  L.  2500.    The  gas  works  have  been  set  down 

*  "  Little  or  no  wheat,"  says  the  writer  of  the  former  Statistical  Account,  in  its 
very  last  sentence,  "  was  raised  till  of  late,  but  it  is  now  sown  in  different  parts  of  the 
parish."  It  may  now  (April  1839)  l)e  as  correctly  said,  that  wheat  is  not  sown  here 
to  the  same  extent  as  it  was  twenty  years  ago.  The  farmer  finds  it  more  advantageous 
to  sow  barley  ;  the  thinness  of  the  soil  in  general  and  our  severe  springs  render  wheat 
both  a  very  precarious,  and  an  exhausting  crop. 


KINROSS. 


29 


about  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  centre  of  Kinross,  at  an  equal  dis- 
tance from  it  and  Mihiathort,  serving  as  a  reservoir  to  each,  both 
for  houses  and  shops.  The  streets  of  Kinross  and  its  immediate 
vicinity  are  hghted  with  gas  by  pubhc  voluntary  subscription. 

The  profits  of  the  Gas  Company  must  very  much  depend  on  the 
price  of  coals,  and  still  more  on  the  prosperous  state  of  trade  at 
Kinross  and  Milnathort.  The  dividend  to  shareholders  has  not  yet 
exceeded  2^  per  cent.,  but  is  expected  soon  to  be  much  higher.  The 
charge  for  1000  cubic  feet  of  gas  is  about  lis.  The  coal  for  the 
work  is  got  at  Capeldrae,  about  seven  miles  south-east  from  Kinross, 
and  is  of  the  kind  called  parrot  or  cannel,  and  is  sold  at  about  14s.  per 
•ton  at  the  pit,  and  costs  about  L.l  when  laid  down  at  the  gas-works. 

The  parish  of  Kinross,  as  stated  in  the  title  of  this  Account,  is  with- 
in the  bounds  of  the  presbytery  of  Dunfermline ;  and  from  the  town 
of  Dunfermline,  by  the  best  carriage  road,  it  is  nearly  fifteen  miles 
distant.  Much  convenience  and  many  advantages,  both  of  a  tempo- 
ral and  spiritual  kind,  would  arise  to  the  minister  and  parish  of  Kin- 
ross, as  well  as  to  several  ministers  and  parishes  around,  were  Kin- 
ross made  the  seat  of  a  new  presbytery,  comprehending  within  its  ju- 
risdiction the  parishes  of  Arngask,  Orwell,  Muckhart,  Fossaway, 
and  Tullibole,  Cleish,  Beath,  Ballingry,  Portmoak,  and  Strathmi- 
glo.    Such  a  new  arrangement  has  not  only  been  seriously  thought 
of,  but  has  been  submitted  to  the  consideration  of  all  the  ministers 
of  the  parishes  above-mentioned,  and  to  two  of  their  respective  pres- 
byteries.   Objections  not  anticipated,  and  some  of  them  of  a  pri- 
vate and  personal,  and  therefore  not  of  a  permanent  nature,  have 
hitherto  opposed  themselves  to  an  object  for  many  reasons  most  de- 
sirable.   The  presbytery  of  Dunferrpline,  in  order  to  lessen  the  in- 
conveniences and  other  evils  of  their  Kinross-shire  members  being 
so  far  removed  from  their  presbytery  seat,  came  to  a  resolution, 
inserted  in  their  minutes,  of  having  two  meetings  at  Kinross  every 
year.    This  is  so  far  well,  but  it  is  not  a  sufficient  remedy  for  what 
the  northern  brethren  complain  of.    This  remedy  the  present  in- 
cumbent of  the  parish  of  Kinross  may  never  experience,  but  another 
will,  when  the  views  and  feelings  of  individuals  shall  no  longer  be 
unfriendly,  or  allowed  by  the  General  Assembly  to  be  so,  to  a  hew 
arrangement  of  public  and  general  advantage. 

April  1839. 


PARISH  OF  PORTMOAK. 


PRESBYTERY  OF  KIEKALDY,   SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  HUGH  LAIRD,  D.  D.  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 

Name. — The  name  of  this  parish  has  been  usually  derived  from 
a  St  Moak,  to  whom  a  priory  erected  at  the  side  of  Lochleven  is 
said  to  have  been  dedicated, — the  prefix  Port  referring  to  the 
landing-place  from  the  priory  on  the  island  of  Servanus,  part  of  the 
ruins  of  which  still  remain.  This  derivation,  however,  is  liable  to 
objection.  When  the  Presbytery  met  in  1659  to  condemn  the  old 
church  which  stood  on  the  site  of  the  priory  at  the  side  of  the  lake, 
the  name  of  the  parish  in  the  record  of  that  court  is  Servanus.  If 
that  was  its  usual  name,  then  it  is  not  easv  to  see  how  recourse 
would  be  had  for  another  to  the  Roman  calendar,  so  long  after 
Popery  was  abolished.  In  the  oldest  manuscripts  which  the  writer 
has  seen,  it  is  called  Portmag,  Portmog,  or  Portmoag,  and  old 
people  and  many  strangers  spell  it  so  to  this  day. 

Extent,  ^c. — From  the  south-west  to  the  north-east,  and  from  the 
north-west  to  the  south-east,  are  about  9  miles,  and  from  south  to 
north  and  from  east  to  west,  about  5^.  The  figure  of  the  parish  is 
very  irregular.  One  corner  runs  about  a  mile  to  the  south-east  into 
the  parish  of  Auchterderran,  and  one  farm  of  about  140  acres  is  se- 
parated from  the  rest  of  the  parish,  and  embosomed  in  that  of  King- 
lassie, — which  arose  from  the  annexation  of  the  intermediate  lands 
to  the  parish  of  Kinglassie,  by  presbyterial  commissioners  in  1650. 
It  runs  more  than  half  round  the  lake,  and  rises  gradually  from 
it  on  one  side  to  the  Bishop's  hill,  distant  rather  more  than  a  mile, 
and  on  the  other  to  Benartie,  at  scarcely  half  the  distance.  The 
highest  top  of  the  former  is  about  1030  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  the  latter  seems  nearly  as  high.  Both  rise  gradual- 
ly from  the  east  very  like  a  wave  in  a  narrow  channel,  till  they 
reach  almost  to  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  where  they  terminate  pre- 
cipitously. About  the'  middle  of  the  parish,  both  hills  begin  to 
flatten  to  the  eastward,  and  the  arable  land  to  extend  in  width. 


PORTMOAK.  31 

The  west  division  is  a  sharp  sandy  soil ;  the  eastern,  rather  strong 
clay  or  heavy  loam. 

Hydrography.— 0\>^o%\ie  to  where  the  Bishop's  hill  winds  to- 
wards the  north,  there  are  several  exuberant  springs.  Within  about 
400  yards,  are  three,  of  excellent  water,  which  by  the  aid  of  a  mo- 
derate fall  would  drive  a  mill.  The  eastmost  one  surprises  strang- 
ers. It  is  said  that  Oliver  Cromwell  called  them  fontes  Scotiai,  and 
the  adjoining  village  is  called  Scotland-well.  Lochleven  is  about 
thirteen  miles  in  circumference.  The  part  of  it  which  is  in  this 
parish  is  said  to  cover  1730  acres  of  land,  and  contains  the  island 
of  St  Servanus,  which  extends,  since  the  draining  of  the  lake,  to 
about  70  acres.  Till  within  these  twenty-five  years,  there  were 
no  plantations  in  the  vicinity  of  the  loch,  except  on  the  south  and 
west.    Since  that  time,  above  300  acres  have  been  planted. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy.— In  the  low  grounds,  there  is  not 
much  rock  of  any  kind.  The  north  side  of  Benartie  is  whin-rock  ; 
and  as  the  land  rises  to  the  Bishop's  hill  on  the  opposite  side,  free- 
stone is  found,  very  soft,  and,  in  general,  unfit  for  use.  But,  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  there  is  a  great  variety  of  stone,  some  very  hard 
and  some  fit  for  hewing  and  building.  The  difficulty  of  bringing 
stones  down  renders  them  expensive.  The  fissures  in  all  these 
rocks  are  from  south  to  north,  and  west  to  east,  at  a  great  variety 
of  distances.  There  is  also  some  workable  whin-rock,  and  an  in- 
exhaustible lime  rock.  The  seam  at  present  worked  is  from 
eight  to  twenty  feet  thick,  and  backed  at  the  distance  of  from  four 
to  ten  feet.  Its  dip  is  to  the  north-east.  Above  it,  is  one  foot  of 
moss,  and  in  some  places  fourteen  feet  of  culm  and  red  earth  ;  and 
below,  a  bed  of  whin  so  hard  that  irons  have  not  been  found  suffi- 
cient to  bore  it.  In  the  fissures,  which  vary  in  size,  are  found  a 
great  variety  of  petrifactions,  and  a  substance  resembling  ice,  which 
the  quarriers  were  accustomed  to  throw  away,  but  latterly  have 
burnt,  finding  it  to  be  the  purest  lime.  When  wet,  it  assumes  the 
consistence  of  butter,  and  whitens  nearly  as  well  as  English  whit- 
ing. About  4000  tons  of  limestone  are  annually  sold  at  Is.  8d.  per 
ton.  And  were  it  not  for  the  high  price,  the  demand  would  be 
much  greater.  But  the  expense  of  preparing  it  is  so  great,  that 
there  is  little  hope  of  the  price  being  reduced. 

A  kiln  that  sells  at  L.  12  costs  at  the  quarry,  L.  2  10  4 

Driving  at  the  top  of  the  hill,          .           .  0  10  4 

^             Rolling,          .           .          .           .  .056 

Breaking  stones,          .           ■           .  .056 

Dragging  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,        •  .     0  10  4 


32 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


Carting  at  do.  •           •                  L.  0  10  4 

Coals,           .  .                      .  .520 

Setting  kiln,  .          .          .         •  .090 

Attendance,  .         .         •          •  .050 

L.  10    8  4 

This  is  not  taking  into  account  either  risk  of  bad  payments,  or 
loss  of  time  for  men  and  horses  in  winter.  The  only  way  of  being 
able  to  sell  at  a  lower  rate  would  be  to  use  machinery  for  bringing 
down  the  stones  from  the  top  to  the  kiln  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  ; 
but  this  would  require  both  capital  and  enterprise.  The  thing  is 
possible,  but  is  a  speculation  that  cannot  be  expected  to  be  under- 
taken soon.  Every  thing  is  conducted  with  the  greatest  economy. 
The  tirring  is  let  by  the  yard,  and  the  quarrying  by  the  ton.  The 
lime  is  burnt  by  persons  who  live  by  it,  or  by  small  farmers  who 
take  a  little  land  to  enable  them  to  keep  horses  more  easily  than 
otherwise  they  could  do.  There  is  hardly  an  instance  of  a  person 
who  lives  by  farming  burning  lime  for  sale  ;  and  yet  it  seldom  bap- 
pens  that  in  this  trade  much  money  is  earned.  It  seems  to  be 
only  strong  working  people  who  gain  by  it,  through  an  application 
of  more  time  and  strength  than  can  be  long  continued. 

The  soils  are  various  in  different  parts  of  the  parish.  To  the 
westward,  it  is  in  general  sharp  sand,  and  to  the  east  strong  clay  or 
heavy  loam.  About  the  middle  of  the  parish,  and  near  the  north 
bank  of  the  lake,  is  a  moss  of  about  80  acres,  of  great  depth,  and 
covered  with  heath.  Besides  this,  there  is  about  150  acres,  out 
of  which  peats  have  been  taken  ;  but  which  are  not  cultivated.* 

Zoology. —  There  are  no  very  rare  species  of  animal  at  present 
in  this  parish.    A  few  years  ago,  the  horns  of  a  stag  were  found 
imbedded  in  water-run  sand,  of  a  very  extraordinary  size.  The 
author  saw  lately  the  fragments  of  them.     They  had  fallen  to 
pieces  from  exposure  to  the  air,  so  that  the  length  could  not  be 
ascertained ;  but  at  the  root,  they  are  thicker  than  those  of  the 
largest  Aberdeenshire  ox.    The  cattle  reared  are  chiefly  of  the 
Fife  breed,  or  that  crossed  by  the  Ayrshire,  and  short-horned  spe- 
cies.   The  sheep  breed  are  chiefly  Leicester;  but  some  of  the  far- 
mers purchase  black-faced  ones  or  Cheviots  from  the  Highlands  or 
the  south  to  feed  on  turnips.    A  great  variety  of  hogs  are  reared 
and  kept.    There  are  not  many  families  among  the  labouring  po- 
pulation that  have  not  one.    Farm  horses  are  generally  good  at  all 
prices  from  L.  20  to  L.  35.    Small  feuars  and  carters  have  some- 

*  A  great  part  of  this  is  now  cultivated  ;  but  part  of  it  not  worth  the  expense. 
-(1839.) 


PORTMOAK. 


33 


times  animals  of  less  value.  There  are  no  forests  in  the  parish, 
and  till  lately  there  were  very  few  plantations.  Within  the  last 
twenty  years,  about  300  acres  have  been  planted,  chiefly  Scotch 
and  larch  fir.  In  some  cases,  there  is  a  mixture  of  hard-wood.  The 
soil  would  bear  any  trees  except  those  which  are  partial  to  cold  clay. 

II.  — Civil  History. 

Land-owners. — The  chief  land-owners  are,  the  Marquis  of 
Northampton,  and  Thomas  Bruce,  Esq.  late  of  the  Customs.  The 
rest  are  chiefly  feuars  of  from  a-half  acre  to  land  worth  L.  400  per 
annum. 

Parochial  Registers. — The  parochial  register  commences  in 
1703.  The  records  previous  to  that  time  are  said  to  have  been 
accidentally  burnt.  In  so  far  as  the  aff'airs  of  the  poor,  and  the 
record  of  proclamations  are  concerned,  they  have  been  regularly 
kept ;  but  the  register  of  baptisms  is  very  incorrect,  as  Dissenters 
have  in  general  been  very  remiss  in  getting  the  names  of  their 
children  entered,  and  till  very  lately  there  was  no  register  of 
funerals. 

Antiquities,  Sj'C. — There  are  no  antiquities  in  the  parish  known 
to  the  writer,  except  the  ruins  of  a  priory  on  the  island  of  Servanus, 
and  of  a  chapel  at  Scotland-well.  A  short  time  ago,  the  metal 
heads  of  some  spears  and  a  shield  were  found  in  the  cut  for  drain- 
ing the  lake.    They  were  sent  as  curiosities  to  London. 

III.  — Population. 

The  number  of  people  in  the  parish,  according  to  Dr  Webster's  return,  was  996 
In  1783,  it  was  1040 
1791,     -  1105 
At  present  (1839)  it  is  1608 

Of  these  are  under  15  years  of  age,        -  619 

betwixt  15  and  30,       -       -  354 

30  and  50,       -       -  347 

50  and  70,       -       -  211 

above  70,          ...  71 

During  the  last  three  years  there  were  6  illegitimate  births  in 
the  parish. 

No  person  of  independent  fortune  resides  in  the  parish.  There 
are  '29  land-owners  whose  properties  exceed  the  value  of  L.  50  per 
annum.  There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  strength,  size,  or 
complexion  of  the  people  ;  3  persons  are  deranged ;  2  fatuous  ;  2 
blind ;  and  2  dumb.  , 

The  people  have  improved  greatly  in  cleanliness  within  the  last 
thirty  years.  In  some  cases,  there  is  still  room  for  improvement, 
but  there  is  none  of  that  filth  so  often  to  be  met  with  in  large 

KINROSS.  c 


34 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


towns.  When  they  appear  at  church  or  market,  they  are  gene- 
rally well  dressed.  Their  ordinary  food  is  the  produce  of  the 
country,  with  the  addition  of  tea  and  coffee,  which  are  in  general 
use.  There  are  very  few,  if  any,  who  have  not  butcher-meat  occa- 
sionally, and  there  are  few  places  where  the  labouring  classes  live 
so  comfortably.  Any  person  may  have,  for  a  trifle,  as  much  land 
for  potatoes  as  he  can  manure,  and  every  thing  done  to  it,  except 
hoeing  and  digging  the  crop.  In  this  way,  an  industrious  family 
may,  for  JOs.  or  I2s.,  have  as  many  potatoes  as  they  can  use,  and 
perhaps  feed  a  pig.  If  their  turbulent  neighbours  would  not  in- 
terfere with  them,  and  lead  them  to  believe  that  this  and  the  other 
change  will  improve  their  condition,  they  would  give  very  little 
trouble.  Among  them  arc  a  considerable  number  of  very  intelli- 
gent men,  to  whom  it  would  not  be  easy  to  find  equals  in  their 
station.  They  are  a  reading  population,  and,  with  a  few  excep- 
tions, temperate,  and,  circumspect.  There  is  perhaps  no  smug- 
gling;  but  owing  to  the  want  of  resident  gentlemen  to  protect 
game,  poaching  is  carried  to  a  shameful  and  demoralizing  height. 
And  if  means  be  not  adopted  soon  to  put  a  stop  to  it,  very  injurious 
effects  will  follow,  both  to  the  rising  generation  and  to  property. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. —  The  parish  contains  about  6566  acres  of  land 
that  have  been  cultivated,  and  3313  that  have  never  been  culti- 
vated, including  1700  covered  by  that  part  of  the  lake  which  is 
in  this  parish.  Of  this  very  little  could  be  ploughed  with  any  ad- 
vantage, except  what  may  be  made  dry  by  the  partial  draining  of 
the  lake.  There  is  no  general  common,  and  even  most  of 
that  which  belongs  exclusively  to  separate  townships  is  in  the 
progress  of  being  divided.  About  350  acres  are  under  wood,  all 
planted. 

Rent— The  rent  of  arable  land  is  extremely  various,  being,  ac- 
cording to  the  quality  of  the  soil,  from  15s.  to  L.3  per  acre.  The 
probable  average  may  be  about  L.  1,  10s.  The  rate  of  grazing, 
equally  diversified,  from  L.  1  to  L.4for  a  milk  cow.  The  average 
may  be  about  L.2,  10s. 

The  common  breed  of  sheep  is  Leicester  and  Cheviot,  and 
much  attention  is  paid  to  their  improvement 

The  land,  in  general,  is  well  cultivated  and  drained.  A  great 
part  of  the  parish  is  in  the  possession  of  the  proprietors.  That 
which  is  let  is  generally  under  Jeases  of  from  seven  to  nineteen 
years.    The  farm-buildings  are  generally  good,  and  the  greater 


PORTMOAK. 


part  of  the  lands  inclosed  chiefly  with  dry  stone-dikes,  which  are 
preferred  to  hedges,  as  the  latter  are  long  in  coming  to  maturity, 
and  decay  before  they  are  very  old. 

Husbandry. — The  principal  improvement  in  farming,  of  late 
years,  has  been  in  pasturing  to  a  greater  extent,  and  bringing  into 
cultivation  above  500  acres  of  meadow  and  moss  that  were  formerly 
of  little  value.  The  chief  obstacle  in  the  way  of  farming  has  been 
the  practice  of  small  proprietors  working  along  with  their  servants. 
As  they  do  not  feel  themselves  called  upon  to  work  hard,  their  ser- 
vants imitate  their  example.  Of  course,  farming  is  carried  on  at 
much  greater  expense  than  is  requisite.  This,  however,  is  gradu- 
ally wearing  out.  There  are  89  ploughs  in  the  parish,  and  all  on 
the  model  brought  from  East  Lothian.  The  author  never  saw 
the  long  Scotch  plough  in  this  parish  nor  one  drawn  by  oxen,  ex- 
cept in  one  solitary  instance,  when  it  was  employed  to  tear  up 
some  very  coarse  land.  There  are  189  farm-horses,  which,  with 
very  few  exceptions,  will  bear  comparison  with  those  of  the  Lo- 
thians;  13  riding-horses,  6  poneys,  12  chiefly  for  carting,  95  young 
horses,  230  milch  cows  kept  by  farmers,  40  by  servants  and  trades- 
people, 347  calves  reared,  1 160  young  cattle,  and  many  thousands 
of  sheep. 

Quarries. — Though  there  be  very  good  freestone  in  the  parish^ 
there  is  at  present  no  regular  quarry.  Lime  is  the  only  quarry  that 
is  regularly  worked,  and  there  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  way  in 
which  it  is  conducted. 


Amount  of  Produce. — 

3283  acres  in  white  croj),  at  L.  7  per  acre,  -           -          L.  22,981 

396    do.     green  crop,  at  L.  6    do.  ....  2376 

422    do.     hay,  at  L  3,  10s.      do.     -  -          .          .  1477 
Live-stock,  including  1728  cattle,  304  horses,  and  250  sheep,  pasture 

may  be  worth  2749 

Flax,  chiefly  for  domestic  use,       -         -  -          .        .  40 

Thinning  woods,  50 

Lime  quarry,       -         -            .          -  .            -  303 

Fishery  in  this  parish,  perhaps,        -  -           -          .       _  150 


Total  yearly  value,       -  -  .  .  .  L.  30,126 


Manufactures. — There  are  no  manufactures  in  the  parish  ex- 
cept one  of  parchment,  which  has  for  a  very  long  period  maintained 
its  ground.  There  was  a  tannery  of  considerable  extent,  and  also  a 
thread  manufactory;  but  they  have  been  discontinued  for  some 
years. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Fairs,  S^c. — Each  of  the  two  largest  villages  has  nominally  a  fair, 
but  one  of  them  hardly  deserves  the  name,  as  scarcely  any  cattle 


3G 


KINROSS-SHlllB. 


or  purchasers  attend  it.  The  nearest  post-town  is  Kinross,  which 
has  no  regular  market.  One  of  the  villages  contains  501  inhabi- 
tants, and  the  other,  now  315.  Besides  these,  there  are  three 
smaller  villages. 

Means  of  Communication. — Turnpike-roads  intersect  the  parish 
in  two  different  directions,  and  the  public  roads  arte  in  general  good; 
but  no  public  carriages  travel  on  them.  Bridges  and  fences  are, 
for  the  most  part,  in  good  order.  Two  excellent  bridges  have  been 
lately  thrown  over  the  Leven. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  parish  church  is  as  near  the  centre 
of  the  parish  as  the  locality  will  permit.    It  is  distant  about  seven 
miles  from  one  corner,  which  is  very  thinly  inhabited,  and  about  half 
that  distance  from  the  other  extremities.  The  old  church  was  built 
in  1661,  and  has  been  rebuilt  several  years  ago.    It  had  become 
too  small  for  th«  population,  and  was  supposed  dangerous.  The 
heritors,  with  a  liberality  that  does  them  credit,  have  now  built  a 
plain  substantial  church,  to  accommodate  about  a  third  more  than 
the  former.   It  is  seated  for  730.    The  only  benefaction  on  record 
is  one  of  L.  100  to  the  poor  born  in  the  parish.    The  manse  is  a 
handsome  and  commodious  dwelling,  and  by  much  the  best  house 
in  the  parish.  The  glebe  contains  above  18  imperial  acres,  but  only 
about  three  of  good  land.   The  rest  is  either  moss  or  unproductive 
land.    The  stipend  is  16  chalders,  half  oatmeal  and  half  barley. 
Till  lately,  there  were  two  Dissenting  meetings  in  the  parish ;  the 
one  of  Dissenters  from  the  Cameronians,  the  other  of  the  Secession 
church  ;  but  the  Cameronian  minister  having  died,  the  congrega- 
tion was  too  small  to  call  another,  and  most  of  the  people  have 
come  to  the  Established  Church.    The  stipend  of  the  Seceding 
minister  is  L.  100,  which  is  raised  from  the  seat  rents  and  the  col- 
lections at  the  door.    To  this  is  added  a  dwelling-house.  The 
number  of  families  in  the  parish  attending  the  Established  Church 
is  219  :  of  Tamilies  Dissenting  or  Seceding,  127.   The  collections 
in  the  parish  church  amount  from  L.  10  to  L.  15  per  annum. 

Education. — There  are  four  schools  in  the  parish,  but  none  of 
them  endowed  except  the  one  established  by  law.  In  these  are 
taught,  English,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  sometimes  Latin,  not, 
however,  on  the  most  desirable  principles.  The  salary  of  the  pa- 
rochial schoolmaster  is  the  maximum.  His  fees  amounted  last 
year  to  L.  6.  None  above  six  years  are  known  to  be  unable  to  read, 
and,  in  so  far  as  the  branches  mentioned  above  are  concerned, 


PORTMOAK. 


37 


there  is  an  universal  desire  to  have  the  young  educated.  The 
great  desideratum  is  the  want  of  a  judicious  and  active  teacher. 

There  are  two  libraries  in  the  parish,  one  of  which  is  connected 
with  the  Secession  Church. 

Poor. — No  person  is  enrolled  as  a  regular  pensioner,  so  long  as 
there  is  any  hope  of  his  ever  being  able  to  provide  for  himself.  In- 
cidental distress  is  provided  for  by  small  loans  with  or  without  in- 
terest, on  the  understanding  that  they  are  to  be  repaid  again,  if  it 
can  be  done ;  and  frequently  they  are  paid  years  after,  principal  and 
interest.  Nor  is  there  any  stated  pension.  The  object  in  every 
case  is  to  meet  the  real  exigency,  and  leave  no  apology  for  begging. 
The  kirk-session  have  given  sums  from  6d.  to  5s.  6d.  per  week, 
according  to  the  necessity  of  the  cases.  Besides  this,  they  pay 
house  rents,  provide  coals  and  articles  of  clothing,  and  shoes  when 
required.  The  number  of  pensioners  varies  from  about  8  to  20. 
To  meet  this  expense,  there  is  a  fund  of  L.  540  in  the  management 
of  the  kirk-session,  and  L.  100  in  that  of  the  minister  and  two  prin- 
cipal heritors.  There  have  been  no  assessments  for  the  poor,  but 
the  heritors  and  wealthier  inhabitants  have  sometimes  subscribed 
to  meet  extraordinary  cases.  Nor  does  there  appear  any  growing 
indelicacy  in  the  poor.  The  writer  had  occasion  to  examine  very 
narrowly  into  the  state  of  the  poor,  on  account  of  the  approach  of 
cholera,  and  did  not  meet  with  a  single  instance  of  complaint,  the 
justness  of  which  he  had  reason  to  suspect.  In  a  population  of  157 1, 
the  whole  claims  did  not  exceed  L.  8. 

Fuel. — The  fuel  chiefly  used  is  coal,  and  a  colliery  has  been 
lately  commenced  in  the  parish,  but  its  practical  effect  is  not  yet 
known.  There  is  an  inexhaustible  peat  moss,  which  in  a  dry  year, 
and  with  a  cheaper  mode  of  digging,  might  afford  cheap  fuel, 
though  greatly  remedied  by  th^  draining  of  the  lake. 

Revised  April  1 839. 


PARISH  OF  CLEISH  * 

PRKSBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  W.  W.  DUNCAN,  MINISTER. 


I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Extent,  &^c. —  This  parish  is  about  6^  miles  in  length  from  east 
to  west,  and  about  1  mile  in  breadth,  except  at  the  east  end,  where 
it  is  \\  mile  from  north  to  south  ;  it  contains  about  7^  square  miles. 
It  is  bounded  by  Dunfermline  parish  on  the  south ;  Beath  on  the 
south-east;  Saline  on  the  south-west;  Portmoak  and  Ballingry  on 
the  east ;  on  the  north  by  Kinross  and  Fossaway.  The  north-east 
end  of  the  parish  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  south  side  of  Loch- 
Leven. 

Topographical  Appearances. — The  Cleish  hills  form  the  highest 
part  of  that  elevated  tract  of  ground  which  lies  between  Kinross- 
shire  and  Dunfermline.  Dumglow,  the  highest  of  them,  is  1215  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  it  is  flat  on  the  top,  and  conspicuous  from 
all  the  country  round.  The  next  highest  are  three  hills  called  In- 
gans,  1030,  1060,  and  1048  feet  in  height.  The  arable  land  is  from 
380  to  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  No  account  has  been 
kept  of  the  temperature  or  pressure  of  the  atmosphere.  In  general, 
it  is  considered  a  good  summer  day  when  the  thermometer  is  from 
55°  to  58°,  between  eight  and  nine  in  the  morning ;  from  65°  to 
68°  between  one  and  two,  and  about  60°  between  nine  and  ten  at 
night.  It  is  not  often  above  70°.  The  reporter  only  saw  it  twice 
as  high  as  80°,  except  in  the  year  1826.  That  year  it  was  often 
higher;  once  at  88°.  A  moderate  frost  is  from  2°  to  8°  (of  Fah- 
renheit) below  freezing  ;  it  is  seldom  below  20°,  very  seldom  be- 
low 10°.  The  prevailing  winds  are  between  south  and  west ;  after 
these,  the  most  frequent  are  from  north-east ;  these  last  feel  colder 
than  the  others,  even  where  the  thermometer  continues  at  the  same 
height.  The  west  winds  are  strongest,  often  consisting  of  violent 
blasts,  with  intermissions  ;  the  east  winds  are  more  uniform  and 

*  Drawn  up  partly  l)y  ilio  late  Mr  Daling,  niinistor  of  the  parish,  and  partly  by 
tlic  present  incumbent,  i\Ir  DuTican. 


CLEISII. 


39 


steady.  Rheumatisms  and  coughs  are  common  here,  as  in  other 
parts  of  Scotland,  owing  probably  more  to  the  dampness  than  the 
cold.  A  good  deal  more  rain  falls  here  than  on  the  shores  of 
the  Forth,  which  are  about  twelve  miles  distant. 

Hydrography. — This  parish  is  well  supplied  with  excellent 
springs,  almost  every  house  having  a  rivulet  running  near  it.  The 
water  is  of  good  quality.  The  heat  of  most  of  the  springs  is  45°, 
of  some  42° ;  they  proceed  from  the  whinstone  and  freestone  rocks. 
There  are  four  lochs  in  this  parish  ;  they  are  situated  on  the 
highest  parts  of  the  parish ;  the  largest.  Loch  Glow,  is  about  a 
iriile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  the  others  much  smaller.  The 
fish  in  them  are  perches,  pikes,  and  eels,  with  a  few  trouts. 
The  river  Gairney  divides  Cleish  from  Kinross  for  about  two  miles 
and  a  quarter;  the  water  from  the  lochs  falls  into  it.  The  fish 
in  Gairney  are  produced  by  the  Loch-Leven  trouts,  which  come  up 
the  river  during  the  floods  in  harvest,  and  return  in  the  beginning 
of  winter.  About  this  time,  some  eels  are  caught  going  down  from 
the  lochs. 

Mirm^alogy. — The  hills  are  principally  composed  of  sandstone, 
greywacke,  and  whinstone.    The  highest  hills  consist  of  the  lat- 
ter ;  lower  down  on  the  north,  there  is  excellent  freestone,  extend- 
ing from  east  to  west  about  four  miles.    There  is  also  some  of  the 
same  kind  on  the  south  side  of  the  hills,  and  in  that  part  of  Benar- 
ty  hill  which  is  in  Cleish  parish.    The  best  houses  and  bridges  in 
the  county  and  neighbourhood  are  built  of  it.    It  is  porous,  bears 
a  fine  polish,  and  does  not  yield  to  the  weather.    The  whinstones 
in  the  hills  are  in  columns.    On  the  side  of  the  high  road  from 
Kinross  to  Dunfermline,  at  Craigencat,  (in  Dunfermline  parish, 
but  annexed,  quoad  sacra,  to  Cleish,)  there  are  very  regular  ba- 
salts in  perpendicular  pillars,  with  many  horizontal  divisions.  They 
are  easily  quarried,  and  make  excellent  dikes  and  road  metal.  Of 
two  stones  of  this  kind  fallen  from  the  hill  called  the  South  Ingan, 
a  pair  of  mill-stones  has  been  made  for  Cleish  mill.    They  have 
a  great  resemblance,  internally,  to  the  rocks  of  the  Abbey  Craig 
of  Stirling,  from  which  many  flour-mill-stones  have  been  made. 
There  is  coal  on  the  estate  of  Blair-Adam,  which  was  formerly 
wrought  to  a  considerable  extent ;  it  is  a  branch  of  the  Kelty  coal. 
As  it  is  near  the  proprietor's  house,  it  has  not  been  wrought  for 
many  years.  There  is  also  coal  in  the  hill,  but  the  seams  are  thin, 
and  nearly  perpendicular,  so  as  not  to  be  worlh  working.  There 
is  very  good  lime  at  Scarhill,  on  the  estate  of  Cleish. 


40 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


The  animals  and  vegetables  here  are  the  same  with  those  in 
other  parts  of  the  low  country  of  Scotland.  A  few  roes  and  foxes 
are  now  found  in  the  young  plantations. 

Botany. — Through  the  kindness  of  the  Rev.  Mr  Robertson  ju- 
nior, of  Inverkeithing,  the  reporter  has  been  furnished  with  the 
following  hst  of  some  of  the  rarer  plants  found  in  this  parish  : 


Veronica  montana 

Scrophularia  vernalis 

Valeriana  pyrenaica 

Cardamine  amara 

Melica  caerulea 

Arabis  turrita 

Lobelia  Dortmanna 

Geranium  sylvaticum 

Lysimachia  nemorum 

 lucidum 

Campanula  latifolia 

Genista  Anglica 

Viola  palustris 

Hypericum  bumifusum 

Parnassia  palustris 

Leontodon  palustre 

Meum  atbamanticum 

Hieracium  amplexicaule 

Peucedanum  ostruthium 

Doronicum  plantagineum 

Sambucus  Ebxilus 

GJymnadenia  conopsea 

Trientalis  Europea 

Habenaria  albida 

Juncus  squarrosus 

Listera  nidus-avis 

Vaccinium  oxycoccos 

Epipactis  latifolia 

Paris  quadrifolia 

Malaxis  paludosa 

Chrysosplenium  alternifolium 

Litorella  lacustris 

Saponaria  officinalis 

Empetrum  nigrum 

Stellaria  nemorum 

Arum  maculatum 

Arenaria  trinervis 

Polypodium  phegopteris 

Sedum  villosum 

 dryopteris 

Lytbrum  salicaria 

Aspidium  lobatum 

Prunus  padus 

 Oreopteris 

Nupbar  lutea 

Blecbnum  boreale 

Meconopsis  Cambrica 

Botrycbium  lunaria 

Helleborus  hyemalis 

Opbioglossum  vulgatum 

Actea  spicata 

Lycopodium  clavatum 

Ranunculus  auricomus 

 alpinum 

Trollius  Europaeus 

 selago 

Scutellaria  galericulata 

Equisetum  hyemale 

Linaria  cymbalaria 

II. — Civil  History. 
Land'Oimers. — The  chief  land-owners  are,  Rear  Admiral  Sir 
Charles  Adam  of  Blair- Adam  and  Barns  ;*  and  John  Young, 
Esq.  of  Cleish.  There  are  at  present  1 1  heritors  in  Cleish,  all  of 
whom  except  one  have  land  above  the  yearly  value  of  L.  50.  The 
number  in  1744  was  24;  many  of  their  properties  were  small,  and 
were  bought  up  from  time  to  time  by  the  contiguous  heritors.  One 
of  the  principal  heritors  resides  always  in  the  parish,  the  other  oc- 
casionally. 

*  Mr  Henry  Burt  bequeathed  the  estate  of  Barns  to  Admiral  Adam,  who  has 
continued  enclosing,  cultivating,  and  planting,  has  rendered  the  mansion-house 
a  most  convenient  dwelling,  and  has  executed  the  large  and  important  drainage  by 
the  straightening  and  lowering  the  Gairncy  in  the  manner  mentioned  : — and  to 
which  may  be  added,  that,  besides  making  some  private  roads  for  the  benefit  of  the  es- 
tate, ho  has  contributed  most  liberally  and  usefully  to  an  important  public  road 
which  goes  through  his  property  from  a  place  called  Red- Moss,  upon  the  great  north 
roiid,  to  Cleish,  to  Tullybole,  and  the  Crook  of  Devon. 


CLEISII. 


41 


Antiquiiies.  Traces  of  an  ancient  fort  or  camp  are  to  be  found 

on  the  top  of  Dumglow,  the  highest  hill  in  the  parish.  Some 
urns  have  been  found  under  large  stones  and  cairns,  containing 
bones,  ashes,  and  bits  of  charcoal. 

The  oldest  buildings  in  the  parish  are  those  of  Cleish  and  Dow- 
hill.    The  house,  usually  called  the  Place  of  Cleish,  is  about  85 
feet  high,  the  walls  still  almost  entire.    There  are  several  old  trees 
round  it.    The  finest  of  these  are  two  silver  firs  in  the  middle  of  a 
walk  of  yews,  one  of  them  being  scarcely  equalled  in  Scotland  by 
any  tree  of  that  kind.    It  is  15  feet  in  circumference  at  one  yard 
from  the  ground,  which  girth  it  maintains  in  a  perfectly  upright 
trunk  of  22  feet  in  height,  when  it  shoots  out  several  enormous 
boughs,  each  of  which  might  form  a  large  tree.    One  of  these  is 
about  10  feet  in  circumference  ;  it  continues  in  a  horizontal  position 
for  12  feet,  when  it  changes  its  direction,  and  runs  directly  parallel 
with  the  main  trunk  to  nearly  the  same  height,  that  being  about 
120  feet.    Exactly  opposite  to  this  branch  three  others  strike  off, 
one  above  another,  in  the  same  manner,  and  on  one  of  the  other 
sides,  a  single  bough,  of  gigantic  dimensions,  throws  itself  in  a 
downward  direction  for  18  feet,  when  it,  like  the  others,  assumes 
the  upright  position.    The  effect  of  the  whole  is  most  imposing. 
The  House  o/  Dowhill  has  been  used  as  a  quarry,  and  a  good  part 
of  it  carried  away.  These  buildings  had  very  thick  walls ;  the  lower 
stories  were  vaulted,  and  each  of  them  had  a  small  apartment  with- 
in the  wall,  called  by  the  people  the  pit,  and  used,  according  to 
tradition,  not  as  a  prison  but  as  a  place  of  concealment. 

It  was  in  this  parish  that  Michael  Bruce,  the  poet,  taught  a 
school.  The  school-house  stood  in  the  centre  of  what  is  now  the 
farm-steading  of  Gairney  Bridge,  and  it  was  in  a  public-house 
which  occupied  the  site  of  the  stables,  that  the  fathers  of  the  Se- 
cession held  their  first  meeting.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  east 
from  the  church,  in  a  stone  dike  opposite  Nivingstone  House, 
stands  a  large  rock,  which  deserves  notice.  It  is  called  The  Lec- 
ture Stane,  and  was  used,  it  seems,  before  the  Reformation  at  fu- 
nerals, as  a  support  br  the  coffin  at  the  time  that  the  burial  ser- 
vice was  read.  There  is  a  large  hole  in  it,  which  was  made  many 
years  ago  with  the  view  of  bursting  it  with  powder.  Thrice  this 
was  tried,  and  as  many  times  it  failed, — which  led  to  the  belief 
that  it  was  charmed,  and  no  similar  attempt  has  since  been  made. 
At  the  east  end  of  the  parish,  the  late  Lord  Chief- Commissioner 
has  inserted  in  a  bridge  a  stone,  with  an  inscription,  to  mark  the 


42 


KINROSS-SHIUE. 


road  by  which  Queen  Mary  fled  from  Lochleven  Castle.  In  the 
grounds  of  Blair- Adam  are  to  be  seen  "  the  Keiry  Crags,"  (a  most 
romantic  spot,)  mentioned  in  "  The  Abbot"  as  the  houffoi  John 
Auchtermuchty,  the  carrier. 

III. — Population. 

In  1831  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  681,  of  whom  221  re- 
sided in  villages,  and  460  in  the  country.  In  agricultural  parishes 
the  numbers  do  not  vary  much.  An  act  of  Parliament  is  neces- 
sary to  regulate  the  parish  registers,  particularly  with  regard  to  the 
births-  Since  the  ground  was  enclosed  there  are  fewer  cottars, 
and  their  houses,  instead  of  being  placed  irregularly  in  the  fields, 
are  built  by  the  sides  of  the  principal  roads.  There  are  five  per- 
sons in  the  parish  who  have  been  insane ;  one  of  them,  a  farm- 
servant,  was  eleven  years  in  that  situation,  and  was  supported  by 
the  parish  funds ;  he  recovered  without  the  use  of  any  remedies, 
and  for  more  than  thirteen  years  has  maintained  himself. 

Character  of  the  People. — In  general  the  people  are  of  good 
morals,  quiet,  decent,  intelligent,  and  seem  contented  with  their  si- 
tuation. Illegal  distillation  was  attempted  some  years  ago,  but 
was  soon  put  down. 

Within  the  last  two  years,  only  3  illegitimate  children  have 
been  born  in  the  parish, — the  parents  of  one  of  which  married  be- 
fore its  birth. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — In  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  the  arable  land 
consists  of  clay  ;  farther  east,  very  good  soil  upon  whin  rock  not 
basaltic ;  then  a  considerable  tract  of  gravel  and  sand,  and  some 
ground  full  of  large  whinstones,  very  productive  when  improved. 
The  south-east  quarter  of  the  parish  consists  mostly  of  stiff  ground, 
which  requires  draining.  Going  south  toward  the  hill,  the  soil  is 
inferior,  mixed  with  clay;  above  that,  lies  the  freestone,  generally 
covered  with  poor  soil,  damp,  and  producing  heather ;  on  the 
highest  hills,  the  grass  is  of  fine  quality,  and  forms  excellent  sheep 
pasture.  There  is  some  moss  in  the  north  and  east  part  of  the 
parish ;  it  is  of  good  quality,  and  forms  excellent  soil  when  culti- 
vated. 

The  system  of  farming  appears  to  be  as  good  as  the  soil  and 
climate  admit  of.  The  common  rotation  of  crops  in  the  arable  land 
is  that  of  four  :  1.  oats;  2.  drilled  crops,  potatoes,  and  turnips; 
3.  barley,  or  sometimes  oats,  or  wheat  after  potatoes  ;  4.  rye- 
grass, with  the  different  kinds  of  clover.     The  first  year's  crop  is 


I 


CLEISH.  43 

generally  cut  for  hay,  and  the  land  kept  in  pasture  for  a  few  years. 
Summer  fallow  is  little  practised  except  in  clay,  or  when  land  is 
first  cultivated ;  when  turnips  and  potatoes  form  part  of  the  rota- 
tion, it  is  unnecessary.    A  considerable  quantity  of  lime  is  used. 
Draining,  which  is  the  greatest  improvement  that  this  country  ad- 
mits of,  was  never  carried  on  with  so  much  spirit  as  at  present. 
The  drains  are  now  much  better  planned  and  executed  than  for- 
merly, and,  in  most  places,  plenty  of  stones  can  be  got  to  fill  them. 
A  great  number  of  acres  has  been  added  to  the  arable  land  by  the 
main  drain,  which  of  late  years  has  been  carried  along  the  north 
side  of  the  parish.  This  will  be  afterwards  more  particularly  de- 
scribed.   There  were  originally  three  commons  in  the  parish  ; 
the  greatest  part  of  them  has  been  improved  long  ago,  and  the 
cultivation  of  the  remaining  part  is  still  going  on.    The  thirlage 
of  the  two  mills  has  been  settled  by  arbitration.     Some  land  has 
been  trenched,  or,  in  place  of  the  ordinary  trenching,  the  surface 
only  has  been  turned  over  with  the  spade  or  plough,  nine  or  ten 
inches  deep,  and  the  under  soil  opened  with  the  pick  to  the  depth  of 
nine  or  ten  inches  more,  and  the  stones  taken  out.    The  produce  of 
some  fields  that  have  been  drainedand  treated  in  this  way,  is  now  dou- 
ble of  what  it  formerly  was.    Some  gentlemen  have  used  ploughs 
of  a  particular  construction  for  opening  the  under  soil.     As  these 
ploughs  are  made  to  follow  the  common  ploughs  in  the  same  fur- 
row, no  fewer  than  six  horses  are  requisite  ;  therefore,  in  many 
cases,  it  would  be  more  convenient  to  lay  the  drills  and  either  pick 
the  furrows  or  open  them  with  the  under  Soil  plough  ;  thus  one- 
half  of  the  ground  would  be  improved,  and  the  other  half  when 
the  drills  were  reversed.    Wedge  draining  has  been  tried  here, 
and  has  succeeded  completely  in  clay  and  moss,  when  properly  per- 
formed. Iron  ploughs  are  generally  used,  and  the  carts  and  other 
implements  of  husbandry  are  much  improved.    There  are  five  or 
six  thrashing-mills  in  the  parish.  Two  saw-mills  were  erected  a  few 
years  ago,  and  are  found  to  be  of  great  advantage.    The  saws  are 
circular  ;  one  in  each  of  the  mills  being  two  feet  and  a  half  in  dia- 
meter ;  they  are  calculated  for  sawing  wood  for  roofing  and  floor- 
ing, as  well  as  for  lath,  rails,  and  stakes.    Scotch  fir,  which,  when 
young,  was  considered  of  little  value,  answers  well  for  lath.  The 
two  meal-mills  in  the  parish  have  been  rebuilt,  and  the  machinery 
much  improved.  The  kilns  also  have  been  rebuilt,  and  fitted  up 
so  as  to  dry  the  corn  sooner  and  better,  as  well  as  with  less  fuel. 


44 


KINROSS-SHIIIE. 


The  price  of  oatmeal  from  1782  to  1791  was  at  an  average, 
14s.  7id. ;  from  1823  to  1832,  18s,  4(1.  per  boll  (140  pounds.) 

Wages. —  The  wages  of  labourers  are  about  Is.  lOd.  in  summer, 
and  Is.  8d.  in  winter;  of  wrights,  2s.  ;  masons,  2s.  6d.  to  3s.  ; 
slaters,  3s.  6d  ;  women  working  in  the  fields  from  the  planting  to 
the  taking  up  of  the  potatoes,  8d.  and  9d. ;  in  harv^est,  from  Is.  3d. 
to  Is.  6d.,  except  when  they  work  by  the  thrieve,  which  they  find 
most  profitable. 

The  labour  of  the  women  is  employed  to  greatest  advantage  in  the 
management  of  cows.  There  are  about  150  cows  kept  in  the  parish, 
inclusivie  of  those  belonging  to  the  heritors  and  farmers.  A  cow's 
grass  in  summer  costs  L.  4  or  L.  4,  4s.  This  is  generally  paid  by 
the  sale  of  the  butter  and  the  calf.  At  night  the  cow  gets  what 
can  be  spared  from  the  garden,  with  grass  from  the  sides  offences 
and  plantations.  For  winter,  they  generally  provide  some  hay, 
and  buy  before  harvest  oats  or  barley,  the  meal  of  which  goes  to 
the  support  of  the  family,  and  the  cow  gets  the  straw,  together 
with  potatoes  and  turnips,  which  the  farmers  give  them  ground  to 
plant  in  proportion  to  their  dung.  Where  a  cow  is  kept,  there  is 
also  a  pig,  and  some  keep  a  pig  who  have  not  a  cow.  Every  house- 
holder has  a  garden,  a  part  of  which  is  planted  with  potatoes. 

Live-Stock. — The  cattle  are  generally  of  the  Fife  breed.  A  great 
deal  of  pains  has  been  taken  to  improve  them,  especially  since  the 
establishment  of  the  Kinross  Farming  Society.  The  sheep  kept  on 
the  hill  are  black-faced,  those  on  the  low  grounds  of  some  of  the 
English  breeds.  A  considerable  part  of  the  arable  ground  of  the 
parish  is  in  pasture,  and  let  for  one  year :  it  is  partly  stocked  with 
young  beasts,  but  principally  with  full-grown  cattle,  which  are  col- 
lected in  the  country  by  the  graziers,  and  sold  at  the  Falkirk 
September  and  October  markets,  or  the  Edinburgh  Hallow  fair. 

The  leases  are  for  fifteen  or  nineteen  years.  The  farm  build- 
ings and  enclosures  are  good,  and  much  improved  of  late  years. 
The  principal  improvement  which  the  agriculture  of  this  parish  ad- 
mits of,  is  to  complete  the  system  of  draining,  which  is  already  far 
advanced,  and  to  cultivate  those  parts  of  the  waste  land  which  still 
admit  of  it. 

The  freestone  has  been  quarried  occasionally  in  many  places  ;  at 
present,  only  two  quarries  are  regularly  wrought,  one  at  Niving- 
stone,  the  other  at  Bin  or  Benarty  hill.  In  the  year  1834,  there  were 
taken  from  the  Nivingstone  quarry  14000  feet  of  stone  for  hewing, 
the  price  of  which  at  3d.  per  foot  is  L.  175 :  and  3300  cart  loads 


CLRISn. 


45 


of  ruble  or  ordinary  building  stone,  costing  at  4d.  per  cart  L.  65. 
and  weighing  about  18  cwt.  per  cart. 

Jmjjrovements.—The  greatest  improvement  that  has  been  made  m 
the  agriculture  of  this  parish  is  the  main  drain  that  has  been  carried 
alongnhe  north  side  of  ihe  parish,  dividing  it  from  Kinross  and  Fos- 
saway.   The  channel  of  the  water  of  Gairney  forms  the  east  part  of 
it,  that  of  the  Pow  of  Aldie  the  west  part.    The  valley,  along  the 
south  side  of  which  the  parish  of  Cleish  hes,  extends  from  Loch- 
Leven  on  the  east,  to  the  Pow  mill  bridge  on  the  west.    Here  two 
roads  unite  ;  one  from  Kinross  to  Alloa  by  Blairngone  ;  the  other 
from  Dunfermline  to  Crieff  by  the  Rumbling  Bridge.    The  Pow 
here  takes  the  name  of  Gairney,  runs  in  a  deep  ravine,  and  falls 
into  Devon  below  the  Caldron  Linn.    The  ground  on  the  sides 
of  the  valley  is  good  ;  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  it  is  also  good, 
but  was  ofteninjured  by  the  floods.  The  channels  of  the  two  streams 
had  been  formerly  straightened  and  deepened  to  about  three  feet, 
but  this  was  found  insufficient  to  prevent  the  low  ground  from  be- 
ing overflowed,  or  to  render  it  capable  of  being  drained.    It  was 
evident  that  a  much  deeper  cut  was  necessary,  and  this  has  at 
length  been  accomplished.    John  Young,  Esq.  of  Cleish  has  the 
merit  of  beginning  this  work,  and  of  carrying  it  through,  as  far  as 
his  estate  extends.    Ip  the  year  181 1,  he  with  other  two  smaller 
heritors  on  the  Cleish  side,  and  Lord  Keith,  acting  for  his  daughter 
Miss  Mercer  of  Aldie,  on  the  Fossaway  side,  agreed  to  widen  and 
deepen  the  Pow  of  Aldie.    This  part  of  the  cut  is  2875  yards 
in  length,  it  was  made  22  feet  wide  at  top,  6  feet  at  bot- 
tom, and  6  feet  deep,  and  cost  14s.  per  6  yards.    It  has  since 
been  frequently  cleared  and  considerably  deepened,  and  now  forms 
a  complete  main  drain  for  the  ground  on  both  sides.    The  soil 
here  consists  partly  of  clay  :  a  great  part  of  it  is  moss,  but  of  good 
quality,  and  has  yielded  well  when  cultivated. 

In  1820,  Mr  Young  and  Mr  Colville  of  Maw  deepened  the 
water  of  Gairney  which  divides  their  estates.  The  soil  here  is  very 
good,  lying  upon  gravel,  the  upper  part  of  which  is  brown  and  con- 
tains iron.  At  the  depth  of  five  feet,  it  is  very  clean  and  open  ;  when 
this  was  cut  into,  a  great  quantity  of  water  came  from  it,  the  pools 
in  the  old  links  of  the  river,  and  the  springs  in  the  low  ground 
dried  up.  Several  of  the  wells  in  the  neighbourhood  also  dried  ; 
on  digging  deeper,  plenty  of  water  was  got,  but  without  the  iron 
flavour.  At  one  part  of  this  cut,  a  vein  of  black  gravel  was  found, 
the  water  from  which  produced  inflammation,  and  swelling  in  the 


4G 


KFNROSS-SHIRE. 


hands  and  feet  of  tlie  labourers,  so  that  some  of  them  were  obho-- 
ed  to  give  up  work  for  two  or  three  days-  The  gravel  was  after- 
wards examined,  and  was  found  to  contain  iron,  but  nothing  that 
could  explain  the  eflfect  which  it  produced  upon  the  workmen. 
This  part  of  the  cut  is  1841  yards  in  length,  18  feet  broad  at  the 
top,  6  feet  at  the  bottom,  and  6  feet  deep  ;  rt  cost  12s.  per  6 
yards. 

The  ground  between  Gairney  and  the  Pow  of  Aldie  still  remained 
to  be  drained.  This  tract  is  the  highest  part  of  the  valley.  The  water 
here  runs  partly  to  the  east  and  partly  to  the  west.  The  ground  was 
very  wet,  a  ditch  that  was  formerly  the  march  between  the  estates 
of  Cleish  and  Aldie  having  been  allowed  to  grow  up,  though  some 
parts  of  it  still  remained  deep  enough  to  drown  several  cattle. 
When  the  ground  was  enclosed,  a  new  march  was  made,  consist- 
ing of  a  stone  dike,  carried  in  a  straight  line  without  regard  to  the 
bend  of  the  valley,  so  that  the  land  upon  the  one  side  of  the  march 
could  not  be  drained  except  through  the  land  on  the  other  side. 
Mr  Young  and  Mr  James  Loch,  who  acted  for  Miss  Mercer,  (now 
Lady  Keith,)  agreed  to  make  the  drain  in  the  old  line  of  march, 
which  was  in  the  lowest  part  of  the  ground :  and  also  to  make  a 
belt  of  planting,  21  yards  in  breadth,  on  each  side  of  the  cut. 
This,  when  the 'trees  grow  up,  will  make  a  great  addition  to  the 
shelter  and  beauty  of  this  part  of  the  valley.  The  length  of  this  part 
of  the  main  drain  is  1387  yards;  the  breadth  at  top,  18  feet;  at 
bottom,  3  feet ;  the  depth,  6  feet ;  the  expense,  10s.  per  6  yards. 
It  was  executed  in  1821.  The  effect  produced  here  was  fully 
equal  to  what  was  expected;  the  ground,  which  was  before  very 
soft,  being  soon  able  to  bear  loaded  carts.  This  completed  the 
drain  from  the  west  end  of  Cleish  parish  as  far  castas  the  church. 

Soon  after,  the  proprietors  of  the  ground  on  the  sides  of  the  wa- 
ter -of  Gairney  to  the  east  agreed  to  deepen  that  part  of  the  river 
which  had  formerly  been  straightened  and  frequently  cleaned  ;  but 
was  not  deep  enough  to  lay  the  whole  of  the  contiguous  ground 
dry,  although  some  of  it  had  been  cultivated.  The  length  of  this 
part  of  the  drain  is  4022  yards ;  the  breadth,  24  feet  to  the  west 
of  the  Barns  estate,  26  feet  to  the  east ;  and  6  feet  deep.  The 
east  part  is  rather  too  narrow,  as  a  good  deal  of  water  from  the  hills 
falls  into  Gairney  here. 

That  part  of  the  Pow  of  Aldie  which  extends  from  the  west 
end  of  the  parish  of  Cleish  to  near  the  Powmill  Bridge,  about 
3157  yards  in  length,  was  straightened  and  deepened  in  1829  and 


CLEISH. 


47 


1830,  which  completes  this  important  drain.  It  is  in  length  7 
miles,  4  furlongs,  153  yards,' and  has  drained  or  rendered  capable 
of  being  drained,  in  Cleish,  453  acres.;  in  Fossaway,  484 ;  in 
Kinross,  122;  in  Dunfermline,  48;  in  Saline,  13;  in  all,  1120 
statute  acres  of  excellent  land,  almost  all  of  which  has  been  already 
cultivated.  Mr  Robert  Drysdale,  land-surveyor  in  Dunfermline, 
who  is  well  acquainted  with  the  ground,  considers  the  value  of  each 
acre  drained  to  be  L.  1,  10s.  yearly  more  than  before,  which  would 
add  to  the  annual  value  of  that  part  of  Cleish  L.  679.  Some  oats 
raised  upon  this  ground  have  been  sold  before  harvest  at  L.  14,  8s. 
and  L.  15,  Is.  9d.  per  statute  acre,  the  buyers  being  at  the  ex- 
pense of  cutting  down  and  carrying  off  the  crop. 

The  evaporation  along  this  valley  must  have  been  formerly  very 
great,  and  as  evaporation  produces  cold,  the  air  and  soil  in  the  low 
ground  must  now  be  warmer,  as  well  as  drier  than  before.  It  is 
probably  owing  to  the  diminution  of  the  evaporation  that  we  have 
not  for  some  time  seen  those  frost  mists,  which  during  the  night  in 
harvest  frequently  covered  the  low  grounds  and  injured  the  crops. 
Though  all  the  land  on  the  sides  of  this  drain  is  good,  some  of  it 
had  rather  an  unpromising  appearance ;  in  particular,  the  peat-bog 
on  the  south  side  of  Aldie.  The  improvement  of  this  bog,  which  was 
begun  by  Count  Flahault,  has  now  been  completed,  and  the  moss 
has  yielded  excellent  crops  of  oats,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  grass. 
The  valley  of  Gairney  and  the  Pow  is  now  completely  changed,  and, 
when  viewed  from  the  higher  grounds,  forms  a  beautiful  prospect, 
especially  to  those  who  were  acquainted  with  it  in  its  former  state, 
The  east  part  of  the  water  of  Gairney,  from  the  parish  of  Cleish  to 
Lochleven,  in  length  1  mile  310  yards,  has  not  yet  been  straight- 
ened ;  but  this  will  probably  be  done  soon.  There  is  now  plenty 
of  level,  the  surface  of  the  loch  having  been  lowered  from  four  to 
five  feet.  The  improvement  of  this  valley  has  been  carried  through 
by  the  proprietors  themselves,  without  any  dispute,  and  with  little 
difference  of  opinion.  When  any  one  of  them  obtained  more  ad- 
vantage than  his  neighbour  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  he 
paid  a  greater  proportion  of  the  expense  of  the  cost.  This  was 
settled  privately  by  the  parties  themselves. 

The  estate  of  Blair- Adam  presents  a  most  instructive  exam- 
ple of  what  may  be  effected  by  skilful  and  judicious  manage- 
ment, in  at  once  improving  the  appearance  of  the  country,  and  in- 
creasing the  productiveness  of  the  soil  in  high  and  exposed  situations. 
It  originally  consisted  of  no  more  than  640  Scotch  acres;  but,  in  con- 


48 


IClNUOSS-SIllItK. 


sequence  of  successive  purcliases,  it  now  extends  from  east  to  west 
upwards  of  three  miles,  from  north  to  south  upwards  of  two  miles 
and  six  furlongs,  and  contains  3110  Scotch,  or  3922  statute  acres- 
The  improvements  were  commenced  in  the  year  1733,  by  the 
great-grandfather  of  the  present  proprietor.  At  that  time  the 
estate  was  little  better  than  a  wild  unsheltered  moor,  the  bleakness 
of  which  was  increased  rather  than  relieved  by  one  sohtary  tree, 
which,  to  use  the  language  of  the  celebrated  Robert  Hall,  looked 
"  like  nature  hanging  out  a  signal  of  distress."  This  fact  the  spec- 
tator at  the  present  day  finds  it  almost  impossible  to  realize.  A 
greater  change  than  that  which  has  taken  place  can  hardly  be  con- 
ceived. The  whole  property  is  now  adorned  with  noble  woods, 
which  are  tastefully  disposed  so  as  to  crown  the  hills,  shade  the 
slopes,  and  hang  over  the  natural  ravines  which  vary  the  landscape, 
producing  altogether  a  striking  and  beautiful  effect. 

But  appearances  have  not  been  the  only  object  of  the  proprietors. 
Great  pains  have  been  tak6n  to  drain  the  soil,  which,  when  relieved 
from  water,  is  in  its  nature  rather  fertile.  Hedge-rows  have  been 
planted,  sunk  fences  constructed,  and  every  means  resorted  to  for 
bringing  the  improvements  to  the  greatest  possible  perfection. 

"  The  small  property  of  East  Mill,  of  which  Mr  Hutcheson  is 
the  tenant,  is  in  the  eastern  district  of  the  parish  of  Cleish,  ad_ 
joining  the  west  march  of  Barns.  By  the  judicious  management 
of  Mr  Hutcheson,  this  property  has  been  greatly  improved  with- 
in the  last  five  or  six  years ;  and  he  now  raises  good  wheat,  where 
no  corn  formerly  grew.  The  estate  of  Fruix,  bounded  by  Barns 
on  the  west,  and  the  lands  of  Gairney  on  the  east,  is  proceeding  in 
improvement  under  the  management  of  the  proprietor,  and  is 
greatly  benefited  by  the  lowering  of  the  Gairney.  The  lands  of 
Gairney,  bounded  by  Brackly  (in  the  parish  of  Portmoak)  on  the 
east,  by  the  water  of  Gairney  on  the  north  ;  and  by  the  lands  of 
Blair- Adam  on  the  south,  has  been  possessed  for  several  years  by 
Mr  W.  Stedman  under  a  lease  from  Mr  Bogie,  the  proprietor, 
who  has  built  for  his  tenant  most  excellent  and  extensive  offices. 
Mr  Stedman,  the  tenant,  has  cultivated  the  land  in  a  most  judi- 
cious manner,  and  has  converted  what  was  unproductive  and  sterile 
dry  land,  into  productiveness.  He  has  likewise  taken  in  a  great 
part  of  the  red  moss,  and  by  his  judicious  management  in  draining 
and  liming,  has  converted  what  was  a  peat-bog,  where  peats  had 
been  dug  for  ages,  into  a  state  of  fertility,  and  this  being  the  work 
of  a  tenant  proves  that  the  culture  must  have  been  beneficial.  This 

3 


CLEISH. 


49 


peat-moss,  which  had  been  for  ages  used  for  fuel,  was  a  few  years 
ago,  brought  into  cuUure  by  the  servitude  of  digging  peats  having 
been  given  up.  The  three  proprietors,  the  Lord  Chief  Commis- 
sioner, Mr  Bogie,  and  Mr  Stedman  of  Fruix,  all  encouraged  the 
culture  of  this  moss,  through  M'hich  the  great  north  road  passes. 
It  was  in  extent  between  forty  and  fifty  acres,  of  which  there  is 
now  hardly  any  thing  to  be  seen,  being  all  either  converted  into 
corn  land,  or  covered  with  trees,  which  are  in  a  very  promising  state 
with  respect  to  growth, 

"  The  last-mentioned  properties,  viz.  East  Mill,  Fruix,  and  Gair- 
ney,  may  extend  to  between  three  and  four  hundred  acres,  and 
with  the  estates  of  Blair  Adam  and  Barns,  constitute  what  is  con- 
sidered as  the  eastern  district  of  the  parish  of  Cleish. 

"  The  estate  of  Barns,  which  adjoins  that  of  Blair  Adam  on  the 
north,  was  the  propeity  of  a  respectable  family  of  Kinross-shire. 
Mr  Robert  Burt,  who  succeeded  to  it  in  1750,  upon  the  death  of 
his  father,  became  factor  on  the  estate  of  Blair  Adam  at  that 
period,  and  continued  to  discharge  that  duty  until  1768,  when 
Mr  Henry  Burt,  his  eldest  son,  was  appointed  to  the  situation. 

"  Mr  John  Adam,  the  father  of  the  late  Lord  Chief  Commis- 
sioner, carried  on  his  improvements  on  a  very  extensive  scale, 
while  he  and  Mr  Burt  were  factors  on  his  estate, — and  they  had 
his  leave  and  indeed  his  injunctions  to  take  from  his  large  nurseries 
whatever  trees  they  wished  to  plant  on  the  estate  of  Barns  ;  so  that 
the  last  mentioned  property  was  cultivated  and  planted  with  trees 
in  a  manner  similar  to  that  of  Blair  Adam,  so  much  so,  that  they 
almost  appear  to  be  the  work  of  the  same  persons."* 
V. — Parochial  Economy. 

Market-Town,  Sfc. — The  nearest  market-town  is  Kinross,  about 
three  miles  north  from  the  centre  of  the  parish,  A  great  part  of 
the  grain,  butter,  and  cheese  produced  is  sold  at  Dunfermline, 
which  is  eight  or  nine  miles  distant.  The  turnpike  roads  from 
Queensferry  and  from  Dunfermline  to  Kinross  cross  the  parish 
from  south  to  north.  The  roads  here  are  good  and  still  improving  : 
the  bridges  were  built  not  many  years  ago,  and  are  in  good  order. 
There  is  a  post-office  at  Blair- Adam,  in  the  east  end  of  the  parish  : 
the  principal  office  for  the  district  is  that  of  Kinross. 

Ecclesiastical  State. — The  church  is  situated  about  four  miles 

*  The  above  remarks  arc  from  the  pen  of  the  late  Lord  Chief  Commissioner  of  the 
Jury  Court,  whose  warm  interest  alike  in  the  comfort  of  his  people  and  the  improve- 
ment of  his  property,  has  caused  his  death  to  bs  felt  in  this  parish  as  an  irreparablo 
loss. 

KINROSS,  n 


50 


KINR0SS-&I1IUE. 


from  the  west  end  of  the  parish,  and  three  miles  from  the  east 
end.  Formerly  the  greatest  part  of  the  people  lived  in  the  west 
part  of  the  parish':  but  as  the  most  of  the  land  there  is  in  pas- 
ture, and  many  houses  have  been  built  on  the  great  north  road, 
the  east  quarter  is  now  the  most  populous.  The  former  church, 
which  was  built  in  1775,  was  unfortunately  burnt  on  11th  of  March 
1832,  owing  to  the  pipe  of  the  stove  being  too  near  the  top  of  the 
wall,  and  setting  fire  to  the  wall-plates.  It  was  rebuilt  immediately, 
and  is  now  one  of  the  handsomest,  though  unfortunately  not  one 
of  the  most  substantial,  churches  in  the  country.  The  expense 
was  about  L.  850.  It  can  accommodate  upwards  of  400  persons. 
All  of  the  seats  are  free. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1744,  and  thoroughly  repaired,  and 
the  offices  rebuilt  in  1793.  *  The  glebe  consists  of  5  acres  of 
arable,  and  nearly  2  of  foggage  or  pasture-ground.  I'he  latter 
was  formed  into  a  watered  meadow,  and  yields  5  tons  of  hay 
annually.  The  foggage  being  under  the  legal  quantity,  16s. 
8d,  was  added  to  the  stipend  to  make  up  the  deficiency.  The 
value  of  the  glebe  is  about  L.  14  per  annum.  The  stipend, 
including  L.  4,  3s.  4d.  for  element-money,  and  16s.  8d.  for  the 
above-mentioned  deficiency  of  foggage,  consists  of  L.  49,  8s. 
lOAd.  in  money ;  24  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  8  bolls  of  bear,  amount- 
ing, at  an  average  of  seven  years,  to  L.  32,  3s.  lid.:  the  Go- 
vernment allowance  being  L.  82,  6s.  lj§d. ;  the  glebe  being  va- 
lued at  L.  14 ;  and  the  manse  (before  the  additions  mentioned  in 
the  foot-note  were  made)  at  L.  8  :  altogether  L.  185,  18s.  ll/^d. 

The  number  of  persons,  with  their  families,  who  belong  to  the 
Established  Church  is  about  620;  of  Seceders,  60.  Divine  ser- 
vice is  generally  well  attended  at  the  Established  Church.  The 
number  of  communicants  is  about  200.  The  patron  of  the  parish 
is  John  Young,  Esq.  of  Cleish. 

Education. — There  are  three  schools  in  the  parish  :  the  paro- 
chial school,  situated  near  the  church;  aprivateschoolat  Maryburgh, 
in  the  most  populous  part  of  the  parish  ;  and  occasionally  another 
private  school  at  Gairney  Bridge,  which  is  convenient  for  the 
children  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  also  for  some  in  the  adjacent 
parishes.  The  parochial  schoolmaster  has  the  legal  accommoda- 
tion ;  his  salary  is  the  maximum.    The  school  fees,  in  1834, 

•  Since  thh  was  written,  a  large  and  handsome  addition  has  been  made  to  the 
manse,  and  an  entirely  new  set  of  oflBces,  besides  a  garden  wall,  have  been  built. 
The  whole  cost  nearly  L.  1000. 


CLEISH. 


51 


amounted  to  L.  30.  English  reading  and  grammar,  writing,  arith- 
metic, Latin,  Greek,  French,  mathematics,  algebra,  navigation, 
and  geography  are  taught  here.  The  school  at  Maryburgh  is 
supported  by  Sir  Charles  Adam,  who  gives  the  teacher  a  house, 
school,  and  garden,  and  L.  1 5  a-year.  Reading,  writing,  arith- 
metic, and  book-keeping  are  taught  here  :  the  fees  are  the  same 
as  in  the  other  school,  and  amounted  in  1834  to  L.  26.  The 
schoolmaster's  wife  has  hitherto  received  L.  5  from  Miss  Adam 
for, teaching  sewing.  She  has  at  an  average  eight  scholars,  at  3s. 
per  quarter.  The  school  at  Gairney  Bridge  depends  entirely  on 
the  school  fees. 

At  the  examination  of  these  schools  in  April  1839,  the  number 
of  scholars  in  the  parish  school  was  65 ;  in  Maryburgh,  81 ;  and 
in  1838,  in  Gairney  Bridge,  about  30.  The  people  are  very  sen- 
sible of  the  advantage  of  education ;  and  no  part  of  the  parish  is  so 
distant  from  the  schools  as  to  prevent  children  from  attending.  * 

There  are  no  friendly  societies  here ;  but  some  of  the  people 
join  with  those  in  the  neighbouring  parishes.  Several  of  them 
also  take  advantage  of  the  Savings  Bank  which  has  been  recently 
established  at  Kinross. 

Poor  and  Parochial  Funds. — The  number  of  persons  at  present 
receiving  parochial  aid  is  6,  at  Is.  per  week,  one  at  2s.,  and  two  or- 
phan children  at  Is.  each  per  week.  There  is  also  a  woman  re- 
ceiving 2s.  6d.  as  a  temporary  assistance,  in  consequence  of  her 
not  being  able  to  prove  the  father  of  her  illegitimate  child.  The 
funds  for  their  support  are,  the  church  collections,  L.  21,  6s.  lOd. ; 
interest  of  L.  265,  L.  10,  12s.;  and  mortcloth  dues,  which,  since 
the  parish  procured  a  hearse  by  subscription,  are  merely  nominal : 
these,  at  an  average  of  seven  years,  amount  to  L.  .31,  18s.  lOd. 
Out  of  the  fund  are  paid  L.  2  to  the  session  clerk,  L.  3  to  the  pre- 
centor, L.  1  to  the  church-officer,  10s.  to  .  the  presbytery  clerk, 
5s.  to  the  synod  clerk,  and  2s.  to  the  presbytery  officer,  in  all, 
L.  6,  17s.,  reducing  the  above  L.  31,  18s.  lOd.  to  L.  25,  Is. 
lOd.  The  average  of  disbursements  for  seven  years  is  L.  43,  Is. 
5d.  Till  the  year  1812,  our  funds  were  sufficient  for  the  support 
of  the  poor,  and  there  was  even  a  small  surplus.  Since  that  time 
the  heritors  of  the  parish  have,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  income, 
subscribed  what  was  necessary,  in  proportion  to  their  valued  rents, 

*  There  are  three  Sahbath  schools,  (besides  a  class  of  young  men  and  another  of 
young  women,)  one  at  Cleish,  anotlier  at  Maryburgh,  and  the  third  at  Gairney 
Bridge,  consisting  in  all  of  about  130  children.    There  is  also  a  parish  library. 


62 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


thinking  that  method  preferable  to  an  assessment.  There  was 
one  subscription  of  L.  10  in  1814,  and  seven  since  that  time  of 
L.  20  each,  amounting  to  L.  150.  The  sum  received  was  L.  153, 
15s.  8d.  Another  subscription  of  L.  20  was  agreed  to  in  January 
1834,  but  has  not  yet  been  required.  In  1799  and  1800,  when 
provisions  were  scarce  and  dear,  the  heritors  -subscribed  for  the 
rehef  of  the  poorest  people  :  the  sum  collected  was  L.  31, 13s.  6d. 

April  1839. 


PARISH  OF  ORWELL. 

PRESBYTERY  OF  DUNFERMLINE,  SYNOD  OF  FIFE. 

THE  REV.  JAMES  WEMYSS,  MINISTER. 

I. — Topography  and  Natural  History. 
Name,  Boundaries,  Sfc. — This  parish  was  originally  called  Ur- 
well,  and  takes  its  appellation  from  a  property  of  the  same  name  on 
the  banks  of  Loch  Leven,  and  at  the  south-east  extremity  of  the  pa- 
rish. Whence  the  word  itself  is  derived  is  not  very  apparent ;  as, 
however,  almost  all  the  names  of  the  farms  in  the  parish  are  obvi- 
ously Gaelic,  so  it  may  not  be  too  much  to  suppose  that  this  also 
may  be  of  similar  origin.  In  this  point  of  view  we  must  have  re- 
course to  the  Gaelic  word  tir,  meaning  new  or  green,  and  baile,  a 
residence  or  retreat ;  the  whole  probably  designates  a  green  or  fer- 
tile retired  situation, — an  interpretation  peculiarly  applicable  to  the 
property  of  Orwell,  and  the  old  situation  of  the  church,  especially 
previous  to  the  introduction  of  drainage,  and  a  superior  mode  of 
farming,  which  of  late  years  has  converted  many  wild  into  fertile 
districts. 

The  parish  is  of  a  narrow  oblong  figure,  the  greatest  length  be  - 
ing from  east  to  west.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Pow-burn  to  the 
summit  of  Coal-craigie,  or  from  Burnside  to  Warroch,  is  about  7^ 
miles,  while  its  greatest  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  does  not  ex- 
ceed 3^;  and  its  surface  may  be  stated  in  round  numbers  at  21 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parishes  of 
Arngask,  Forteviot,  Forgandenny,  and  Dunning ;  by  Fossaway  on 
the  west ;  by  Kinross  parish  and  Loch  Leven  on  the  south  ;  and  by 


ORWELL. 


53 


Portinoak  and  Strathmiglo  on  the  east.  A  small  part  of  the  pa- 
rish is  annexed  quoad  sacra  to  that  of  Arngask. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  parish  is  generally  level,  diversified 
with  gently  sweUing  heights.  North  of  Milnathort,  it  rises  gra- 
dually to  the  top  of  the  high  grounds  called  the  Braes  of  Orwell, 
and  thence  more  suddenly  to  different  eminences  on  the  Ochil 
hills.  The  highest  of  these  hills,  at  nearly  the  north-western  ex- 
tremity of  the  parish,  scarcely  exceeds  1000  or  1100  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  ;  and  the  lowest  part  of  the  parish  on  the  margin  of 
Lochleven  is  about  335  feet  above  the  same  level.  The  average 
height  of  the  cultivated  portion  may  be  about  450  feet. 

Climate,  8fc. — The  climate,  on  the  whole,  is  healthy.  Former- 
ly ague  was  very  prevalent  on  some  farms,  but  now,  owing  to  drain- 
age, is  scarcely  known.  The  most  fcommon  diseases  are  fevers  and 
consumptions.  During  the  early  part  of  winter  and  spring,  the 
low  Dfrounds  suffer  considerablv  from  hoar-frost.  The  height  of 
the  barometer  is  at  the  same  station  very  variable,  but  may  be 
stated  on  an  average  at  29.5.  The  thermometer  has  never  been 
observed  lower  than  7°,  and  seldom  attains  70°  in  the  shade, — the 
mean  temperature  being  about  46.6°.  From  the  proximity  of  the 
Ochil  Hills  on  the  north,  of  the  Lomond  and  Bishop  Hills  on 
the  east,  and  Benarty  on  the  south,  the  quantity  of  rain  that  falls 
in  the  parish,  and  throughout  the  county,  is  above  the  average 
for  Scotland.  Even  when  not  actually  raining,  the  atmosphere 
generally  may  be  called  moist,  as  Leslie's  hygrometer  rarely  ex- 
ceeds 25°  in  the  finest  weather,  and  on  an  average  is  not  more 
than  15°.  These  observations  were  made  at  an  altitude  of  400 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  only  apply  to  it. 

Polar  lights  are  frequent  during  the  end  of  autumn  and  begin- 
ning of  winter.  The  east  wind  prevails  for  three  or  four  months 
during  spring  and  beginning  of  summer ;  and  its  influence  is  con- 
siderably felt,  notwithstanding  the  high  barrier  interposed  by  the 
Lomond  and  Bishop  hills.  In  the  evenings  the  mist,  or,  as  it  is 
called  in  the  district,  the  eastern  haar,  is  observed  slowly  crown- 
ing their  summits,  or  descending  their  sides  in  vast  masses,  and 
extending  itself  far  to  the  west,  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the 
county.  But  the  prevailing  wind  is  the  south-west,  which  blows 
the  greater  part  of  the  year  with  considerable  violence.  This  cir- 
cumstance may  be  attributed  to  the  funnel-shaped  nature  of  the 
district ;  the  western  portion  of  which  being  the  low  strath  which 
stretches  by  Dollar  to  Alloa ;  the  eastern,  that  by  Strathmiglo 
into  Fife. 


54 


KINROSS-SIIIRr;. 


Hydrography, — The  North  Queich  is  the  only  stream  of  any 
size  that  flows  through  the  parish.  There  are  several  others, 
which,  however,  are  of  a  trifling  nature,  except  during  speats  oc- 
casioned by  heavy  rains.  Almost  all  of  these  streams  terminate 
in  Loch  Leven.  The  Queich,  from  its  source  to  its  mouth,  is  from 
five  to  six  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth  about  twenty  feet. 
It  forms  no  cascades  of  any  consequence ;  although,  among  the 
hills  in  the  earlier  part  of  its  course,  there  are  several  very  pretty 
waterfalls. 

The  Queich  is  a  clear  stream,  and  only  remarkable  as  being 
one  of  the  principal  sources  from  which  Loch  Leven  is  replenish- 
ed with  trout, — this  being  the  chief  breeding  stream,  although 
much  less  so  now  than  formerly,  few  trouts  comparatively  ascending 
from  the  lake  as  they  did  forty  years  ago.  This  may  be  accounted 
for,  either  from  the  straightening  and  sloping  of  the  banks,  which 
modern  improvements  have  suggested, — thus  destroying  the  shel- 
ter of  the  fish,  and  giving  them  a  dislike  to  their  former  haunts, 
— or  from  the  over-fishing  of  the  lake,  which  lessens  the  number 
of  emigrants ;  moreover,  poaching  is  still  carried  on  during  close- 
time  ;  and  in  a  late  examination  into  the  cause  of  the  deteriora- 
tion of  the  fishings,  consequent  upon  the  drainage  of  the  lake,  it 
appeared,  from  the  evidence  of  some  noted  poachers,  that,  after 
a  September  or  October  flood,  many  hundreds  were  killed  during 
the  night  by  spearing  parties.  These  parties  consist  of  three  or 
four  individuals ;  and  their  operations  are  carried  on  much  in  the 
same  manner  as  those  by  salmon-poachers.  One  or  two  with 
spears  take  the  middle  of  the  stream ;  one  on  the  bank  carries  a 
dark  lanthorn,  and  the  third  and  fourth  the  fish  :  the  light  is  thrown 
upon  the^orf^  or  shalloiv,  and  the  fish,  being  in  the  act  of  spawning, 
are  easily  killed.  Many  fish  are  also  caught  at  the  dam-dikes  be- 
longing to  the  small  mills  high  up  the  stream  ;  indeed,  whole  sacks- 
full  are  taken  out  at  some  of  these  places  in  a  single  night. 

There  are  abundance  of  springs  in  the  parish,  and  water  may 
be  obtained  by  sinking  wells  at  very  small  depths. 

Geology  and  Mineralogy. — This  parish  is  situated  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  Ochil-hills,  and  near  the  middle  of  the  chain.  The 
stratified  rock  is  the  same  as  the  old  red  sandstone  on  the  north 
border  of  the  Fife  coal-field,  having  its  general  dip  south-east 
upon  Loch  Leven  ;  though  of  course  contorted  in  various  places 
by  the  intrusion  of  igneous  rocks,  of  which  there  is  abundance. 
Near  the  lake,  deposits  of  lacustrine  silt  are  said  to  have  been  ob- 


ORWELL. 


55 


served,  including  the  usual  organic  remains;  and,  in  the  lower 
grounds,  beds  of  gravel  may  be  seen  in  many  places,  all  seeming 
to  indicate  that  Loch  Leven  was  once  a  much  more  extensive  sheet 
of  water  than  now.    The  central  part  of  the  parish  contains  two 
large  masses  of  trap  rock,  one  of  greenstone  on  the  east,  varymg 
in  its  character,  and  becoming  tufaceous  on  the  higher  grounds  in 
some  places;  and  on  the  west,  a  much  larger  one  of  claystone  por- 
phyry, of  a  purple  colour,  extending  for  several  miles,  very  hard 
and  compact,  where  the  country  is  level,  but  where  it  rises,  becom- 
ing softer,  amygdaloidal,  and  in  some  parts  even  tufaceous.  Be- 
tween these  large  masses  of  trap,  there  occur,  here  and  there,  com- 
pact felspar,  clinkstone,  and  such  like  modifications  of  it.  There 
is  no  limestone,  nor  any  rock  of  the  coal  formation  towards  the  west 
of  the  parish  ;  but  near  the  boundaries  on  the  east,  the  limestone 
and  grey  sandstone  are  upraised  on  the  western  Lomond  and  Bi- 
shop-hill. No  transition  rocks  appear  towards  the  rise  of  the  stra- 
tification on  the  north-west.  Large  veins  of  calc-spar  and  of  sul- 
phate of  baryta  occur  in  the  greenstone.    Heulandite,  in  small 
nodules,  is  found  in  the  porphyry,  and  pretty  large  specimens  of 
mesotype,"  where  it  becomes  amygdaloidal.    Laumonite  and  anal- 
cine  abound  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  therefore  probably  exist 
in  the  parish,  although  hitherto  not  observed.    Scales  of  fish  have 
been  detected  in  the  red  sandstone.    Iserine  is  occasionally  found 
along  the  margin  of  the  lake. 

Soil.  The  soil  in  the  southern  or  more  level  part  of  the  parish 

is  a  sandy  clay,  occasionally  mixed  with  till  or  gravel,  and  a  few 
fields  may  be  termed  loamy  or  alluviaL    Upon  the  more  elevated 
grounds,  called  the  Braes  of  Orwell,  the  soil  generally  consists  of 
a  sharp  gravel  of  good  quality,  excellently  adapted  to  the  culture 
of  potatoes  and  turnips.    Of  the  former,  from  100  to  120  Linlith- 
gow bolls  have  been  raised  upon  a  Scottish  acre.    Wheat,  ex- 
cept upon  a  few  fields  of  the  first  quality,  has  not  generally  been 
raised  with  success  ;  and  the  more  intelligent  farmers  prefer  a  crop 
of  oats  or  barley,  as  affording  a  safer,  and,  upon  the  whole,  a  more 
profitable  return.    The  average  produce  of  oats,  per  Scotch  acre, 
may  be  stated  at  from  6  to  10  Linlithgow  bolls,  that  of  barley 
from  5  to  8;  although  at  times  much  higher  returns  are  made. 
The  better  varieties  of  oats  are  generally  in  use,  and  the  average 
weight  in  ordinary  years  may  be  stated  at  from  13  to  14  stones 
per  Linlithgow  boll.    The  quality  of  the  barley  has  of  late  years 
much  improved.   Formerly  it  succeeded  the  oat  crop,  but  it  now 


56 


KlNROSS-SI-llRE. 


generally  succeeds  potatoes  or  turnips,  and  the  average  weight 
may  be  about  18  stones  per  Linlithgow  boll,  although  often  above 
19  stones.  In  a  competition  in  the  year  1833,  between  a  gentle- 
roan  possessing  extensive  properties  in  the  county  of  Clackmannan, 
and  an  heritor  in  this  parish,  as  to  which  of  the  counties,  Clack- 
mannan or  Kinross,  that  year  would  produce  the  best  barley,  it  being 
agreed  that  each  should  stand  by  the  produce  of  his  own  farm, 
the  bet  was  decided  in  favour  of  Kinross -shire,  the  weight  being 
58^  lbs.  per  imperial  bushel.  In  the  same  year,  some  barley  was 
raised  in  Portmoak,  close  to  this  parish,  and  when  sold  at  Kirk- 
aldy  market  was  found  to  weigh  60  lbs.  But  this  last  was  ex- 
tremely well  cleaned. 

There  are  five  or  six  quarries  of  red  sandstone,  one  of  which 
only,  close  to  Milnathort,  is  wrought  for  sale.  There  are  also  se- 
veral of  green  or  whinstone :  but  these  are  principally  used  for 
furnishing  stones  for  dikes,  and  metal  for  the  roads. 

Zoology. — Game  was  at  one  time  abundant,  but  is  now  almost 
extirpated,  owing  to  the  remissness  of  the  tax-office  in  not  prose- 
cuting and  punishing  the  lower  class  of  poachers.  A  few  roe-deer 
are  occasionally  seen,  but  do  not  seem  to  breed  in  the  parish. 
The  other  kinds  of  game  are  the  grouse,  blackcock,  partridge, 
woodcock,  snipe,  wild-duck,  hare,  and  rabbit.  The  only  birds  of 
considerable  rarity  which  have  been  observed  are  the  kingfisher 
{Alcedo  Ispida)  and  the  cross-bill  {Loxia  curvirostra.) 

The  principal  kinds  of  fish  are  the  common  burn  trout,  Loch 
Leven  trout,  (a  variety  of  the  former,)  eels,  pike,  and  perch.  But 
almost  all  these  belong  more  properly  to  Loch  Leven,  which  falls 
to  be  noticed  under  the  account  of  the  parish  of  Kinross. 

Botany.* — Orwell  contains  few  or  none  of  the  truly  rare  plants. 
The  following  may  be  mentioned,  either  because  they  are  rare  in 
the  district,  or  common  in  the  parish,  although  not  generally  dif- 
fused throughout  Scotland. 

Hippuris  vulgaris  Myosotis  palustris  Meum  athamanticum 

Veronica  anagallis   repens  PepHs  portula 

Eleocliaris  acicularis    sylvatica  Luzula  congesta 

Briza  media    arvensis  Alisma  plantago 

Dipsacus  sylvestris    collina   ranunculoides 

Scabiosa  succisa,  var.  aibi-   versicolor              Trientalis  Europea  (sum- 
flora                               Echium  violaceum                 mit  of  Holeton  hill) 
Galium  Witheringii           Campanula  latifolia            Erica  tetralix,  var.  alba 
Potamogetonf                    Gentiana  campestris            Vaccinium  vitis  Idxa 
Radiola  millegrana             Hclosciadium  inundatum   —  Oxycoccos 

*  For  the  botanical  department,  as  also  for  much  other  valuable  information  con- 
tained in  this  account,  the  compiler  is  indebted  to  Dr  Walker  Arnott  of  Arlary. 
•)•  Nearly  all  the  Scotch  species  arc  found  in  Loch  Leven. 


ORWELL. 


57 


Epilobiutn  hirsutum 
Polygonum  minus 
Spergula  subulala 
Rubus  idcBUS 
 saxatilis,  (and  no 

others) 
Heliantbemum  vulgare 
Ranunculus  reptans 
Mentha  piperita 

  hirsuta 

.   arvensis  (and  no 

others) 
Origanum  vulgare 
Galeopsis  versicolor 
Acinos  vulgaris 
Lepidium  carapestre 
 Sroithii 


Subularia  aquatics 
Nasturtium  terrestre 
Fumaria  capreolata 

,   media 

Genista  Anglica 
Ornithopus  perpusillus 
Hypericum  humifusum 

 quadrangulum 

 perforatum 

pulchrum 


Senecio  viscosus 
Chrysanthemum  segetum 
Gymnadenia  conopsea 
■Platanthera  bifolia 

 chlorantha 

Carex  curta 

  dioica 

 flava 

 CEderi 

 ampullaeea 

Littorella  lacustris 
Myriophyllum  spicatum 
Pilularia  globulifera. 


(and  no  others) 
Apargia  hispida 
Bidens  (both  species) 
Gnaphalium  (all  but  mar- 
garitaceum  and  luteo-al- 
bum) 
Filago  germanica 

The  ferns  are  very  few,  and,  with  the  exception  of  Polypodium 
pkp.gopteris,  are  of  the  most  common  kind.  Of  the  rarer  mosses 
may  be  mentioned,  Orthotrichum  Lyellii  and  pulchellum  ;  Hypnum 
dendroides,  as  well  as  Bartramia  recurvata,  occasionally  are  found 
in  fructification.  " Jungermannia  exsecta  occurs  abundantly  in  the 
neighbouring  parish  of  Portmoak,  a  few  yards  from  the  boundary. 
There  are  no  rare  Algae  or  Lichens  :  Cetraria  islandica  is  abun- 
dant in  some  moors,  but  never  with  apothecia.  Of  the  larger 
fungi,  Amanita  musearia  may  be  mentioned  as  abundant,  while  the 
common  mushroom  {Agaricus  campestris)  is  rare  ;  and  of  the  smal- 
ler, Puccinia  buxi  has  been  detected  in  profusion,  but  only  in  one 
locality. 

To  complete  this  account,  it  is  necessary  to  indicate  some  of 
those  genera  common  in  many  places,  but  not  found  in  this  parish  : 
thus  there  are  ho  species  of  Erythrcea  ;  Hyoscyamus  ;  Solanum;  Sa- 
molus;  Jusione;  Cuscuta ;  Pyrola  ;  Saxifraga,  {except  S.  gr arm- 
la  ta)  ;  Thalictrum ;  Scutellaria;  Stachys,  {except  S.pallustris)  ; 
Orobanche;  Coronopus ;  Draba,  (except  Z).  verna)  ;  Corydalis  ; 
Lathynis,  (except  L.  pratensis)  ;  Vicia,  (except  V.  cracca  and  se- 
pium);  Astragalus  ;  Oxytropis  ;  Lactuca  ;  Crepis  ;  Carduus  (and 
only  the  most  common  species  of  Cnicus)  ;  Erigeron  ;  Cineraria  ; 
Inula  ;  Pulicaria  ;  Anthemis  ;  Listera  ;  Epipactis  ;  Malaxis  ;  Pe- 
ristylus ;  Euphorbia,  (except  E.  helioscopia  and  Peplus)  ?  Salix, 
(except  S.fusca,  aurita,  and  aquatica)  ;  Myrica,  or  Jtriplex,  (ex- 
cept A.  patula)  :  Chrysanthemum  Leucanthemum,  although  now  in 
the  greatest  profusion  throughout  the  parish,  was  unknown  in  the 
district  until  it  was  introduced  along  with  the  seed-corn,  from  a 
distance,  forty  or  fifty  years  ago. 

Within  tliese  last  thirty  years,  there  have  been  a  great  many 
plantations  formed  both  on  the  low  grounds,  and  on  the  southern 


64 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


exposure  of  the  Ochils.  These  consist  principally  of  larch,  Scots 
fir,  spruce,  oak,  and  ash. 

II. — Civil  History. 

The  only  account  of  the  parish  is  that  contained  in  Sir  John 
Sinclair's  Statistical  Account.  There  is  no  map  of  the  parish  by 
itself,  but  there  are  two  very  excellent  ones  of  the  county.  One 
of  these  is  by  John  Bell,  in  1796  ;  the  other,  by  Sharp,  Green- 
wood, and  Fowler,  in  1828.  The  latter,  in  particular,  is  remark- 
able for  its  minute  accuracy. 

Burleigh  Castle  has  been  the  subject  of  several  paintings,  espe- 
cially by  Mr  Robert  Stein.  ' 

Eminent  Characters. — Dr  Coventry,  the  late  Professor  of  Agri- 
culture in  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  possessed  the  property  of 
Shanwell  in  this  parish  ;  and  Dr  Young  of  Rosetta,  in  whose  arms 
Sir  Ralph  Abercromby  breathed  his  last  in  Egypt,  was  a  native 
of  it.  Balfour,  Lord  Burleigh,  was  also  from  this  parish ; — see 
Douglas's  Peerage. 

Land-owners. — There  are  about  27  heritors  possessed  of  the 
valuation  of  L.  100  Scots  or  upwards,  besides  35  others  having  a 
smaller  valuation, — the  smallest  being  L.  2, 1  Os.  There  are  nine  pro- 
prietors at  present  whose  valued  rent  each  is  L.  200  or  upwards, 
viz.  Dr  Walker  Arnott  of  Arlary,  L.  619  Scots;  John  Horn,  Esq. 
of  Thomanean,  L.  552;  Rev.  G.  Coventry  of  Shanwell,  L.  403; 
Robert  Neilson,  Esq.  of  Hilton,  L.  272 ;  Misses  Macturk  of 
Craigow,  L.  241 ;  Heirs  of  the  late  Rev.  Dr  Belfrage  of  Colliston, 
L.  233  ;  Rev.  Mr  Brown  of  Finderly,  L.  233  ;  Charles  Stein,  Esq. 
of  Hattonburn,  L.  212  ;  and  Mr  Purves  of  Warroch,  L.  200.  The 
total  valued  rental  is  L.  6786,  16s.  8d.  Scots.  By  far  the  greater 
proportion  of  the  proprietors  farm  their  own  lands,  at  least  in  part. 

Parochial  Registers. —  The  date  of  the  earliest  entry  in  the  pa- 
rish register  is  30th  September  1688.  It  is  not  voluminous,  owing 
to  a  great  disinclination  on  the  part  of  the  people  to  come  forward 
and  register  either  births  or  deaths.  This,  however,  is  a  little 
more  attended  to  now  than  formerly. 

Antiquities. — On  the  farm  of  Orwell  there  are  two  flat  standing 
stones,  firmly  imbedded  in  the  ground.  They  are  situated  east 
and  west  of  each  other,  at  fifteen  yards  distance ;  the  one  is  6|, 
the  other  8  feet  high,  and  each  3^  feet  broad.  Considerable 
mechanical  jjower  must  have  been  required  to  bring  them  to  their 
present  position,  no  similar  rock  being  nearer  than  the  West  Lo- 
mond, which  is  distant  two  miles,  and  the  ground  intervening  is 

4 


OUWELL. 


59 


rugged  and  uneven.  No  tradition  exists  in  the  district  regarding 
thefr  origin,  though  various  conjectures  have  been  formed  ;— some 
supposing  that  they  indicate  a  Danish  battle  ;  others,  that  they  form 
the  remains  of  a  Druidical  circle.  It  may,  however,  be  observed, 
that,  in  the  same  field,  stone  coffins  have  been  occasionally  turned  up 
by  the  plough  ;  and  a  few  years  ago,  the  ground  was  in  many  places 
dug  up  by  a  neighbouring  proprietor,  when  quantities  of  bones,  much 
decomposed  and  mixed  with  charcoal,  were  discovered.  The  bones 
were  about  fifteen  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  gene- 
rally a  layer  of  small  stones  above  them.  A  request  was  once 
made  to  the  Antiquarian  Society  of  Edinburgh  to  send  a  deputa- 
tion to  examine  the  ground  carefully ;  but  this  was  never  accom- 
plished. 

The  old  church  of  Orwell,  situated  on  the  shore  of  Loch  Leven, 
and  near  the  south-east  boundary  of  the  parish,  was  only  a  chapel 
of  ease  in  the  reign  of  Robert  1. ;  who,  says  Sibbald,  in  his  History 
of  Fife  and  Kinross,  gave  to  the  monastery  of  Dunfermline  hi 
puram  et  perpetuam  eleeniosynam,  Ecdesiam  de  Kinross  cum  Ca' 
pella  de  UrivelL  At  what  period  it  became  the  parish  church  is 
unknown. 

Burleigh  Castle,  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south- 
east of  the  village  of  Milnathort,  seems  to  be  of  considerable  an- 
tiquity.   It  was  at  one  period  a  place  of  great  strength,  consistmg 
of  a  square,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  ten  feet  in  height,  a  deep 
ditch  filled  with  water,  and  a  redoubt.   The  castle  itself  is  entirely 
in  ruins,  though  part  of  the  square  still  remains.    About  twenty 
years  ago,  two  towers  were  standing;  one  was  of  considerable 
height,  and  must  have  been  very  capacious.    The  south  or  small 
tower  appears  to  have  been  the  most  modern  structure  of  the 
whole.    The  date,  1582,  with  arms  and  the  initials  I.  B.,  and  be- 
low these  M.  B.,  doubtless  of  some  of  the  possessors,  were  on  the 
north  corner  of  the  west  gable.    The  great  tower  must  have  been 
built  at  a  much  more  remote  period ;  but  no  date  or  trace  can  be 
discovered  from  which  a  conjecture  as  to  the  time  of  its  erection 
can  be  formed.    The  buildings  on  the  north  were  probably  erect- 
ed about  the  same  period  as  the  southern  tower.  The  plantations 
about  Burleigh  were  at  one  time  very  extensive  and  regular ;  but 
almost  all  the  trees  have  either  been  cut  down,  overturned  by  the 
wind,  or  have  died  of  old  age.    About  thirty-five  years  ago,  there 
was  a  considerable  number  quite  hollowed  out ;  and  one  in  par- 
ticular, an  ash,  was  known  to  have  been  so  for  upwards  of  a  cea- 


60 


KINUOSS-SHIRE. 


tury.  This  tree  was  noted  for  sheltering  the  Master  of  Burleigh 
when  concealing  himself  from  justice.  In  1707,  Robert,  only  son 
of  the  fourth  Lord  Burleigh,  learning  that  Mr  Henry  Stenhouse, 
the  schoolmaster  of  Inverkeithing,  had  married  a  girl,  (for  whom 
he,  young  Burleigh,  had  an  attachment,  and  on  account  of  which 
he  had  been  sent  abroad  to  travel,)  and  taken  her  from  her  father's 
house  in  his  absence,  on  his  return,  went  directly  to  the  school- 
master's house,  and  shot  him  through  the  left  shoulder  at  his  own 
door,  in  consequence  of  which  Stenhouse  died  twelve  days  after. 
Mr  Balfour  was  apprehended  some  time  afterward,  tried  4th  Au- 
gust 1709,  and  sentenced  29th  November  to  be  beheaded.  He, 
however,  escaped  from  prison  the  1st  or  2d  of  January  1710,  by 
exchanging  clothes  with  his  sister,  and  concealing  himself  suc- 
cessfully for  some  years.  The  hollow  of  the  old  ash  was  often 
the  place  of  his  retreat,  and  hence  received  the  appellation  of 
Burleiyli's  Hole.  He  afterwards  engaged  in  the  Rebellion  of  1715, 
and  was  attainted.*  This  tree  was  dismantled  of  its  top  bv  the 
high  winds,  during  the  winter  1808-9  ;  and  was  completely  blown 
down  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  root  on  Old  Handsel- Monday  1822. 
It  stood  about  twenty  feet  distant  from  the  west  wall  of  the  great 
tower. 

Upon  the  top  of  the  branch  of  the  Ochils  which  bounds  the 
parish  on  the  north,  stands  Cairn-a-vain,  once  an  immense  col- 
lection of  stones,  though  now  much  reduced  in  size, — the  pro- 
prietor, thirty  years  since,  having  carried  away  many  hundred 
cart-loads  for  the  purpose  of  building  dikes.  An  old  rhyme,  still 
remembered,  alluded  to  a  treasure  supposed  to  be  contained  in  it, — 

In  the  Dryburn  well,  beneath  a  stane, 

You'll  find  the  key  oF  C;tirn-a-vaiii, 

That  will  mak'  a  Scotland  rich  ane  by  ane. 

However,  no  treasure  was  found,  although  eagerly  expected  by 
the  workmen.  There  was  a  rude  stone  coffin  in  the  centre  of  the 
cairn,  containing  an  urn  full  of  bones  and  charcoal,  and  amongst 
these  was  found  a  small  ornament  of  bone  about  four  inches  long, 
very  much  resembling  the  figure  of  a  cricket-bat,  and  notched  in 
the  edges ;  this  was  in  much  better  preservation  than  the  other 
bones.  Clay  urns  full  of  burnt  bones  have  also  been  found  on 
the  farm  of  Holeton,  and  in  other  places  along  the  skirts  of  the 
Ochil  hills. 

III. — Population. 
In  1755,  the  population  amounted  to  1891  persons;  and  in 

*  Maclaurin's  Criminal  Trials;  and  Douglas'  Peerage  of  Scotland. 

3 


ORWELL. 


61 


1793,  the  numbers  were,  males,  811;  females,  933;  total,  1744. 

The  population  at  each  census  was  as  follows  : — 
In  1801,  males,  '920  females,  1116  total,  2036 
1811,    do.    1005     do.     1167    do.  2172 
1821,   do.   1170     do.    1359     do.  2529 
1831,    do.    1512     do.    1493     do.  3008 

The  population  returns,  in  1831,  included  about  190  males, 
then  employed  in  making  a  new  line  of  road  from  Milnathort  to 
Damhead,  nearly  all  of  whom  did  not  previously  reside  in  the  pa- 
rish, and  left  it  when  the  work  was  completed.  The  causes  of 
increase  otherwise  are  supposed  to  be  the  improved  state  of  agri- 
culture giving  more  employment  to  labourers,  and  the  greater  salu- 
brity of  the  atmosphere  consequent  on  draining,  the  introduction  of 
vaccination,  &c. 

The  population  of  Milnathort  (the  rest  of  the  parish  being 
landward)  was, 

In  1801,  males,  409  females,  550  total,  959 

1811,    do.    543  do.     656  do.  1199 

1821,    do.    656  do.      821  do.  1477 

1831,    do.    867  do.     905  do.  1772 

The  number  of  births,  deaths,  and  proclamations  of  marriages 
for  the  last  seven  years  is,  according  to  the  register,  as  follows : — 

Births.  Funerals.  Proclamation  of  marriages. 

1832,  40  .  .  66  .  •  23 

1833,  33  .  .  56  .  .  23 

1834,  30  .  .  54  .  .  21 

1835,  35  .  -  52  .  .  21 

1836,  40  .  .  46  .  .  23 

1837,  31  .  .  62  .  .  21 

1838,  33  .  .  35  .  .  20 

Many  of  the  inhabitants  never  make  any  registration  either  of 
births  or  deaths  ;  and  several  die  in  the  parish  who  are  buried  and 
registered  elsewhere. 

No  census  since  1821  has  been  taken  sufficient  to  enable  us  to 
state  the  average  number  of  persons  of  different  ages.  In  that 
year  there  were, — 


Under  5  years. 

males, 

142 

females, 

178 

From  5  to    10  do. 

do. 

170 

do. 

148 

10  to    15  do. 

do. 

127 

do. 

150 

15  to  20  do. 

do. 

114 

do. 

123 

20  to  30  do. 

do. 

173 

do. 

240 

30  to  40  do. 

do. 

1.37 

do. 

162 

40  to  50  do. 

do. 

108 

do. 

136 

50  to  60  do. 

do. 

100 

do. 

99 

60  to  70  do. 

do. 

58 

do. 

79 

70  to  80  do. 

do. 

34 

do. 

30 

80  to  90  do. 

do. 

6 

do. 

11 

90  to  100  do. 

do. 

1 

do. 

1 

100  and  upwards, 

none. 

There  are  about  50  proprietors  of  land,  of  the  yearly  value  of 


G2 


KINIIOSS-SHIRE. 


L.  50,  and  upwards.  At  last  census  (1831)  there  were  662  fami- 
lies.   The  number  of  each  family  is  about  4^. 

In  1831,  there  were  455  inhabited  houses;  since  then,  at  least, 
15  or  20  additional  ones  have  been  built.  In  1831,  there  were 
7  uninhabited  or  building. 

By  the  census  of  1831,  there  were  207  males  employed  in  agri- 
culture ;  357  males,  retailers ;  27  wholesale  merchants,  &c. ;  236 
labourers;  52  males  not  included  in  the  above  description;  91 
female-servants,  but  there  were  no  house  male-servants. 

There  is  1  fatuous  person,  1  deaf  and  dumb,  and  1  blind. 

Character  of  the  People,  ^c. —  The  people,  generally  speaking, 
are  intellectual,  moral,  and  religious.  Poaching  has  prevailed 
of  late  years  to  such  an  extent  that  scarcely  any  gentleman  takes 
out  a  game  certificate.    Smuggling  is  now  unknown  in  the  parish. 

IV. — Industry. 

The  number  of  imperial  acres  may,  in  round  numbers,  be  stated 
at  13,500 ;  *  of  these  about  8000  are  either  cultivated  or  occa- 
sionally in  tillage ;  and  from  600  to  700  in  plantations,  gardens, 
&c.  The  remaining  500  acres  are  almost  in  a  state  of  nature, 
and,  from  lying  principally  along  the  heights  and  declivities  of  the 
Ochils,  cannot  be  cultivated,  at  least  with  profit. 

Larch,  Scotch  fir,  spruce,  ash,  and  oak,  are  the  principal  trees. 
Little  attention  is  paid  to  the  regular  yearly  thinning,  felling,  prun- 
ing, &c. 

The  arable  land  may  average  about  L.  1,  10s.  or  L.  1,  12s. 
per  imperial  acre.  The  average  rate  of  grazing  is  from  L.  3,  10s. 
to  L.  4  per  annum  for  a  cow,  and  L.  2,  10s.  to  L.  3  for  an  ox. 

Wages. — Farm-servants  in  bothy  receive  about  L.  12  in  money, 
6^  bolls  of  oatmeal,  and  6  firlots  of  potatoes  per  annum,  with  a 
pint  of  milk  daily.  The  married  servants  generally  have  cows,  but 
their  wages  are  lessened  in  proportion.  The  rate  of  labour  is  very 
various ;  in  summer  a  stout  and  good  workman  will  earn  2s.  per  day 
(providing  his  own  victuals) ;  or,  during  the  hay  harvest,  2s.  6d. 
In  winter  Is.  6d.  is  a  common  rate.  Women  obtain  from  9d. 
to  Is.  3d. 

Live-Stock. — The  Fife  breed  of  black  cattle  is  generally  pre- 
ferred, though  in  its  pure  state  can  hardly  be  obtained. 

•  The  number  of  Scots  acres,  as  given  by  the  writer  of  the  former  Statistical  Ac- 
count, was  incorrect;  for,  if  we  take  his  own  statement  as  to  the  number  of  miles, 
viz.  5  or  G  long,  and  5  broad,  this  would  give  at  the  utmost  30  square  miles,  or 
15,200^  Scots  acres.  By  careful  measurement  on  a  map,  the  number  of  imperial 
acres  given  above  will  be  found  tolerably  accurate. 


OJaWELL. 


C3 


Leases. — The  larger  farms,  especially  those  requiring  improve- 
nf:ent,  are  let  for  fifteen  or  nineteen  years  :  smaller  farms  for  seven 
years.  Occasionally,  single  fields  are  let  for  three  years,  and  ac- 
cording to  a  specified  rotation  of  cropping.  The  farm-steadings 
formerly  were  in  very  bad  order,  but  of  late  years  much  improve- 
ment has  been  effected  in  this  particular,  and  nearly  all  are  now 
in  excellent  condition.  Thrashing-mills  driven  by  horses  are  ge- 
nerally used;  two  or  three  are  driven  by  water,  but  none  by  steam. 
Most  farms  are  now  enclosed  either  by  dry  stone  dikes,  or  beech 
or  thorn  hedges. 

The  principal  manufacture  was  formerly  cotton  goods  by  the 
handloom  ;  but,  owing  to  the  low  prices  got,  a  new  manufacture, 
that  of  tartan  shawls  and  plaiding,  has  been  introduced  within  the 
last  twelvemonths,  which  lias  created  a  great  stimulus.  One  or  other 
of  these  gives  employment  to  a  great  many  of  the  inhabitants.  As 
the  new  manufacture  requires  larger,  looms,  and  the  dwelling- 
houses  being  generally  unfit  for  such,  one  or  two  individuals  have, 
as  a  speculation,  erected  large  airy  buildings  in  the  village  of  Milna- 
thort, in  which  any  of  the  work  people  can  have  a  stance.  This 
is  much  more  healthy  than  the  old  system.  The  hours  for  work 
depend  on  their  own  pleasure. 

V. — Parochial  Economy. 
Market-town. — Milnathort  is  the  only  market-town,  and  indeed 
there  is  no  other  village  but  itself  in  the  parish.  There  has  been 
a  weekly  corn-market  (by  sample)  held  here  for  nearly  half  a  cen- 
tury, to  which  distillers  at  considerable  distances  send  agents  to 
purchase  grain.  It  is  likewise  the  only  one  in  the  county.  About 
ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  there  was  an  attempt  made  to  have  a  but- 
ter, cheese,  and  poultry-market;  but  it  did  not  succeed.  Milna- 
thort has  no  regular  system  of  police  ;  but  within  these  two  years, 
a  small  constabulary  paid  force  has  been  appointed  for  the  county, 
and  one  of  the  officers  has  his  residence  in  Milnathort,  and  in  the 
day  time  perambulates  the  district  assigned  to  him.  Owing  to 
the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  and  villages  in  the  county  not  having 
hitherto  contributed  one  farthing  towards  this  establishment,  but 
leaving  all  to  be  paid  by  the  land-owners,  it  is  not  expected  to  be 
kept  up  much  longer,  unless  they  come  forward  and  pay  a  reason- 
able proportion. 

The  mail-coaches  pass  through  Milnathort  twice  a-day,  but  it 
is  only  a  penny-post  to  Kinross.  There  are  about  fourteen  miles 
of  turnpike  roads  ;  a  similar  number  are  kept  up  by  statute  labour 


C4 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


They  are  all  in  excellent  condition.  The  bridge  over  the  Queich, 
at  the  south  end  of  Milnathort,  is  old,  ill  constructed,  and  by  no 
means  in  good  repair.  The  great  north  road  trustees  have  not 
displayed  their  usual  zealous  attention  by  endeavouring  to  obviate 
this  deformity,  while  other  improvements  of  minor  importance  on 
this  line  of  road  have  been  carried  into  execution.  The  fences  in 
the  parish  are  in  pretty  good  order. 

The  Aberdeen  and  Inverness  mail-coaches,  Saxe-Cobourg  to 
Perth,  and  Defiance  to  Aberdeen,  travel  along  the  great  north  road 
from  Edinburgh  every  day,  but  the  Cobourg  and  Defiance  do  not 
run  on  Sundays.  Occasionally,  there  are  other  stage-coaches  on 
the  road  ;  and  some  time  ago,  one  passed  through  Milnathort  from 
Cupar  to  Stirling,  but  for  some  years  it  has  ceased  to  run. 

Ecclesiastical  State  —  The  church,  which  was  built  in  1729,  is 
situated  half  a  mile  from  the  nearest,  and  five  miles  from  the  far- 
thest boundary  of  the  parish  ;  yet,  as  considered  with  reference  to 
the  dwellings  of  the  parishioners,  (the  village  of  Milnathort  con- 
taining half  of  the  whole  population,)  it  could  not  be  more  conve- 
niently situated.  There  is  a  mortification  by  Captain  Crawfurd  of 
Pow-mylne  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor,  which  amounted,  in  1722, 
to  L.  100.  * 

The  church  affords  convenient  accommodation  for  only  646  per- 
sons, although  there  are  about  1600  connected  with  it;  of  these  599 
are  communicants.  There  are  no  seats  unlet,  and  nearly  the  whole 
belong  to  the  heritors,  and  are  filled  by  themselves,  their  tenants,  or 
servants.  The  Dissenting  heritors  let  their  seats,  when  not  required 
by  their  tenants  or  servants,  for  2s.  or  2s.  6d.  each.  One  gallery  in 
the  aisle  belongs  to  the  patron,  who  has  permitted  it  to  be  let,  and 

"  The  following  extract  is  from  the  parish  records: — "  1722.  The  said  3d  of 
May  the  Session  met  again,  and  after  prayer,  Major  Henry  Balfour  of  Dunbog  de- 
positate  in  the  minister  his  hands,  in  name  and  behalf  of  Captain  William  Crawfurd 
of  Pow-mylne,  for  the  use  of  the  poor  in  the  parish  of  Orwell,  born  and  living  in  the 
parish,  virtuously  and  honestly,  the  sum  of  L.  100  Sterling  money;  the"  which 
sum  to  be  lent  out  upon  good  security,  and  the  a.-rent  to  be  bestowed  as  it 
cometh  into  the  managers  of  the  said  mortification.  The  managers  appointed  by 
the  said  Captain  Crawfurd,  being  Sir  Thomas  Bruce  of  Kinross  and  his  heiis,  the 
minister  of  the  parish  of  Orwell  and  his  successors,  ministers,  and  Captain  Cra\rfurd 
and  his  heirs,  Robert  Coventry,  fewar  in  Arlary,  Robert  Balfour  in  Orwell,  William 
Shaw,  fewar  in  Seggie,  and  George  Arnott  of  Holeton,  and  failing  any  of  these 
four  by  death,  the  survivois  to  choose  others  in  their  room,  (a  power  being  reserved 
by  the  Captain  for  himself,  or  his  heirs  and  successors,  to  add  to  the  number  of  ma- 
nagers, as  he  or  they  shall  find  meet.)  The  managers  being  likewise  convened,  and 
considering  this  pious,  generous,  and  honourable  deed  of  Captain  Crawfurd,  recom- 
mended it  to  the  minister  to  write  a  letter  of  thanks,  in  name  of  the  managers,  to  the 
Captain  for  his  singular  liberality,  and  to  assure  him  that  all  due  care  shall  be  taken 
that  the  samen  be  managed  and  disposed  so  as  it  may  annwer  his  good  and  laudable 
design." 


ORWELL. 


65 


tlie  proceeds  given  to  the  poor.  It  contains  about  90  sittings  ; 
the  front  seats  are  let  at  Ss.,  the  others  at  6d.  each.  The  poor 
have  seats  in  this  loft  gratis.  The  church  is  by  far  too  small  for 
the  contyreaation,  and  the  demand  for  more  accommodation  is  ra- 
pidly  encreasing  :  150  additional  sittings  at  least  are  required,  and 
nearly  all  of  these  for  the  working  classes.  The  want  of  accom- 
modation in  the  parish  church  deprives  many  of  the  parishioners 
of  the  means  of  public  worship,  or  compels  them  to  attend  Dis- 
senting churches.  The  attendance  at  church  is  nearly  the  same 
throughout  the  year;  none  of  the  parishioners  belonging  to  the 
Establishment  attend  worship  out  of  the  parish. 

The  manse  was  built  in  1788,  and,  though  repaired  in  1825,  is 
still  very  incommodious.  The  sum  of  L.  200,  judiciously  laid  out, 
would  render  it  very  comfortable.  The  amount  of  stipend  is  L.  68, 
7s.  lOj^'gd.  in  money;  69  bolls,  2  firlots,  1  peck,  2§  lippies  meal; 
46  bolls,  2  firlots,  3  pecks,  and  2fo  lippes  barley;  and  7  bolls,  2 
firlots  oats.    There  is  also  a  glebe  worth  about  L.  30  per  annum. 

There  are  two  Dissenting  places  of  worship  ;  the  one  belong- 
ing to  the  Original  Burgher  Associate  Synod :  the  other  to  the 
United  Associate  Synod.  Both  these  places  of  worship  are  in 
the  village  of  Milnathort ;  and  the  number  of  individuals  attend- 
ing them,  as  given  up  to  the  Church  Commission  in  December 
1837,  was  as  follows,  viz. — at  the  former,  average  attendance, 
300;  persons  in  the  habit  of  attending,  450;  communicants,  little 
more  than  300 :  the  average  attendance  at  the  United  Secession 
was  about  400;  those  in  the  habit  of  attending,  580;  communi- 
cants, 485.  The  actual  numbers  belonging  to  these  establish- 
ments are  supposed  to  be,  to  the  one,  472 ;  to  the  other,  714 ; 
but  some  of  these  may  reside  in  other  parishes.* 

Education. — There  are  6  schools  in  the  parish,  1  parochial  or 
endowed  school,  and  5  not  endowed.  Of  these  two  are  female 
schools :  some  of  them  are  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  parish  ; 
and,  vvithin  a  few  yards  of  the  eastern  boundary,  there  is  one  si- 
tuated in  the  parish  of  Strathmiglo,  so  that  there  are  ample  means 
of  education. 

The  parochial  school  is  in  Milnathort,  and  the  branches  here 

•  "  The  primary  cause  of  there  being  Seceders  in  this  parish,  was  a  Mr  Mair,  a  mi- 
nister of  the  Establishment,  who,  changing  his  opinions,  preached  up  the  erroneous 
doctrine  of  universal  redemption,  and  was,  in  consequence  of  this,  dismissed  from  his 
charge  ;  notwithstanding  of  this,  he  still  continued  in  the  village,  preaching  this  doc- 
trine till  the  day  of  his  death,  to  his  adherents,  who  were  very  numerous,  and  who 
built  that  large  cliapel  presently  occupied  by  the  Burghers." — Sir  John  Sinclair's 
Statistical  Account,  Vol.  xx.  p.  134. 

KINROSS.  IS 


66 


KINROSS-SHIRK. 


generally  taught  are,  English,  writing,  arithmetic,  practical  ma- 
thematics, geography  and  Latin,  and  sometimes  Greek  and  French. 
In  the  unendowed  schools  attention  is  chiefly  paid  to  the  four  first 
branches.  The  salary  of  the  parochial  schoolmaster  is  L.  34,  4s. 
4^d.,  and  the  school  fees  average  about  L.  50.  «  The  lowest  rate 
is,  for  English,  2s.  6d.  per  quarter ;  writing  and  English,  3s.  6d. ; 
arithmetic  with  the  two  former,  4s.  6d.  ;  Latin  with  any  of  the 
preceding,  6s. ;  mathematics,  book-keeping,  with  the  addition  of 
any  or  all  of  those  enumerated,  7s.  6d.  The  schoolmaster's  house 
was  built  within  the  last  thirty  years.  It  consists  of  two  stories, 
and  is  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  keep  boarders.  He  has  besides 
all  the  legal  accommodations. 

Thepeople  ingeneral  arealive  to  thebenefits  of  education.  There 
are  almost  none  between  six  and  fifteen  years  of  age  who  cannot 
read  or  write  ;  and  none  above  fifteen  in  that  situation,  so  far  as  is 
known.  There  is  no  part  of  the  parish  so  distant  as  to  prevent 
the  children  attending  either  the  parish  school  or  one  of  the  un- 
endowed seminaries. 

The  morals  of  the  lowest  classes  have  not  improved  of  late  years, 
but  this  is  not  to  be  attributed  to  the  greater  facilities  for  educa- 
tion. In  consequence  of  the  low  price  of  spirits  within  these  last 
six  or  eight  years,  there  have  been  more  petty  crime  and  drunken- 
ness than  WAS  formerly  known. 

There  is  a  library  in  the  village,  instituted  in  1797,  called  the 
Milnathort  Library.  This  belongs  at  present  to  about  forty  diffe- 
rent individuals,  in,  or  connected  with  the  parish,  who  contribute 
6s.  6d.  annually  towards  it.  Any  one,  however,  may  read  the 
books  by  paying  Is.  a-month,  or  8s.  a-year.  The  annual  funds 
for  the  purchase  of  books,  after  defraying  the  ordinary  expenses, 
amount,  for  the  average  of  the  last  ten  years,  to  L.  13.  It  is 
managed  by  a  small  committee  of  seven  persons  appointed  annual- 
ly, and  at  present  consists  of  1270  volumes.  Being  the  oldest  li- 
brary in  the  county,  it  received,  about  four  years  ago,  a  donation 
from  the  Record  Commission  Court  of  London,  of  all  the  pub- 
lished acts,  retours,  and  other  records  of  England  and  Scotland, 
composing  52  folio  volumes.  Besides  this,  there  is  also  a  session 
library,  instituted  1st  January  1832,  attached  to  the  Established 
Church,  and  consisting  of  between  300  and  500  volumes.  It  is 
kept  up  by  a  collection  at  the  church  door  on  the  first  Sabbath  of 
each  year;  and  every  individual  belonging  to  the  congregation  is 
allowed  to  make  use  of  it,  on  contributing  Is.  annually.  The 


ORWELL.  6T 

books  are  given  out  to  be  read  every  Sabbath,  before  pubUc  wor- 
ship, by  one  of  the  elders  ;  and  the  poor  are  allowed  to  read  the 
books  free  of  expense.    It  is  not  confined  to  religious  works,  but 
comprehends  others  of  general  information,  such  as  narratives  of 
voyages,  travels,  &c.    There  are  also  two  other  libraries  ;  the  one 
a  subscription  library,  belonging  to  the  United  Secession,  instituted 
in  1S38,  to  which  each  family  using  it  contributes  2s.  annually  ; 
the  other,  conducted  on  similar  principles,  is  a  congregational  li- 
brary, belonging  to  the  Original  Burghers. 

There  are  no  institutions  or  societies  in  the  parish  ;  but  one  gen  • 
tleman,  it  may  be  observed,  has  an  extensive  private  collection  of 
dried  plants,  containing  upwards  of  20,000  species. 

Saving  Bank.—Theve  was  formerly  a  Saving  Bank  in  the  coun- 
ty, but,  owing  to  the  stopping  of  the  Stirling  Bank,  in  which  much 
of  the  money  was  deposited,  the  institution  was  broken  up.  Dur- 
ing last  year,  another,  nearly  on  the  Government  plan,  was  set 
agoing.  The  head  office  is  in  Kinross,  and  there  are  also  branches 
in  Milnathort  and  Cleish.  As,  however,  it  has  been  a  few  months 
only  in  existence,  nothing  can  be  stated  as  to  its  prospects  of  suc- 
cess. 

Poor. — In  the  former  Statistical  Account  it  is  said,  "  There 
are  few  poor  on  the  roll,  as  the  other  three  places  of  worship  sup- 
port their  own  poor,"— a  statement  totally  inapplicable  to  the  pre- 
sent day.  Formerly,  the  poor  had  a  feeling  of  independence,  de- 
clining all  assistance  so  long  as  they  could  earn  a  pittance  by  their 
own  exertions,  and  their  relatives  were  desirous  of  aiding  them  ra- 
ther than  see  their  names  on  the  poor's  roll.  Not  so  now.  The 
applications  for  assistance  every  year  are  becoming  more  and  more 
numerous,  and  nothing  is  heard  but  grumbling  that  they  are  not 
getting  so  much  as  some  of  their  acquaintances  on  the  roll.  In- 
deed, very  near  relatives,  who,  by  law,  might  perhaps  be  compel- 
led to  assist,  contribute  nothing.  Formerly,  the  money  collected 
at  the  church-door  was  sufficient  not  only  to  support  all  the  poor, 
but,  by  good  management,  a  sum  was  amassed,  which,  about  forty 
years  ago,  was  laid  out  in  purchasing  a  piece  of  land.  Now,  ow- 
ing to  the  poor  belonging  to  the  Secession  churches  coming  to  the 
Orwell  kirk-session  for  relief,  from  the  collections  at  the  church- 
door  not  proportionally  increasing,  (many  passing  by  without  be- 
stowing one  farthing,  alleging  that  the  heritors,  and  not  they,  ought 
to  give,)  and  others  contributing  far  below  their  means,  there  is 
not  a  sufficiency  of  funds  to  support  the  poor,  even  with  the  rent 


68 


KINROSS-SHIHE. 


derived  from  the  purchased  land,  which  at  present  amounts  to 
L.  56  Sterh'ng.  As  it  is  doubtful  whether  a  legal  assessment  can 
be  laid  on,  so  long  as  there  is  property  belonging  to  the  poor,  an 
attempt  was  made  about  a  year  ago  to  lay  on  a  voluntary  assess- 
ment, in  the  expectation  that  those  heritors  who-  were  either  non- 
resident or  did  not  attend  the  parish  church,  and  who  had  hitherto 
contributed  Httle  or  nothing,  would  come  forward  in  a  handsome 
manner.  This  measure  failed ;  few  of  those  individuals  havino- 
given  more  than  what  by  law  they  could  have  been  compelled  to  pay, 
and  others  gave  nothing  whatever.  A  similar  attempt  is  not  there- 
fore likely  again  to  be  made,  and  ere  long  the  property  must  be 
sold ;  and  when  this  happens,  the  few  hundred  pounds  obtained 
will  speedily  vanish,  demands  to  be  put  on  the  poor's  roll  will  ra- 
pidly increase,  and  a  legal  assessment  be  the  result. 

The  average  number  of  paupers  on  the  permanent  roll,  exclusive 
of  lunatics  in  confinement,  and  of  persons  receiving  occasional  relief, 
were  in  1835,  23  who  received  L.  78,  9s.  9d. ;  in  1836,  19  who  re- 
ceived L.83,  Is.  Id.;  in  1837,  26  who  received  L.81,8s.6d.  Those 
who  received  occasional  relief  in  1835  were  27,  who  got  L.  9,  3s. 
5d.;  in  1836,  32  received  L.  10,  13s.  6d.  ;  in  1837,  40  received 
L.  20,  16s.  8^d.  In  1837,  there  was  one  lunatic  in  confinement, 
the  cost  of  which  was  L.  25,  18s.  2d. 

The  annual  amount  of  collections  at  the  church-door  were  as 
follows  :— 1835,  L.  29,  6s.  8d. ;  1836,  L.  29,  9s.  9d. ;  1837,  L.  29, 
19s.  3d.  During  these  years,  there  were  also  voluntary  contribu- 
.lions  to  the  amount  of— 1835,  L.  3,  5s.  Id. ;  1836,  L.  3,  8s.  8id.  ; 
and  1837,  L.  54,  7s.  5d.  The  mortcloth  and  other  sessional  dues 
and  rent  of  poor's  land  amounted,  in  1835,  to  L.  62,  15s.;  1836, 
to  L.62,  6s.  6d.;  and  in  1837,  to  L.  63,  14s.  6d.  The  collec- 
tions are  applied  to  the  relief  of  the  poor  of  all  denominations  in 
the  parish  ;  under  deduction  of  a  salary  of  L.  3,  3s.  to  the  session- 
clerk  ;  L.  3  to  the  precentor;  and  to  the  beadle  L.  1,  Is.  The 
books,  containing  a  statement  of  these  funds,  are  inspected  twice 
a  year  by  a  joint  committee  of  the  kirk-session  and  heritors. 

The  parish  is  much  annoyed  by  vagrants,  such  as  shipwrecked 
sailors,  and  persons  disbanded  from  manufacturing  establishments, 
&c.  solicitinof  relief. 

Fairs. — There  are  six  markets  or  fairs  held  during  the  jear 
in  the  village  of  Milnathort.  Two  of  these,  (one  on  the  Thursday 
before  Christmas,  the  other  on  the  second  Thursday  of  February), 
are  held  for  the  sale  of  fat  cattle  only.    The  other  four  are  gene- 

;3 


ORWELL. 


69 


ral  markets  for  cuttle,  sheep,  and  horses,  and  take  place  in  the  be- 
ginning of  May,  July,  and  November,  and  end  of  August. 

Inns  and  Alehouses.- — There  are  no  less  than  14  spirit  licenses 
granted  for  this  parish.  Of  these,  5  are  issued  to  inns  or  public- 
houses  in  the  village  of  Milnathort ;  seven  grocers  in  the  village  also 
allow  spirits  to  be  consumed  on  their  premises  ;  and. there  are  two 
public-houses  in  the  landward  part  of  the  parish.  This  facility  of 
obtaining  spirituous  liquors,  not  to  mention  the  cheapness  of  the 
article,  while  it  has  given  an  effectual  check  to  smuggling,  has  in- 
creased their  consumption,  and  greatly  deteriorated  the  morals  of 
the  lower  orders  ;  and  instances  of  late  have  occurred  of  some 
abandoned  wretches  stealing  and  selling  mere  trifles  to  obtain  the 
few  pence  requisite  to  purchase  a  dram. 

Fuel. — Almost  the  onlv  kind  of  fuel  now  used  is  coal,  which  is 
obtained  in  several  places  in  the  county  of  Fife,  at  no  great  distance 
from  the  borders  of  Kinross-shire.  The  distance  of  the  pits  from 
Milnathort  is  from  seven  to  nine  miles.  The  price  is  variable,  but 
at  present  the  cost  may  be  stated  at  7s.  or  7s.  6d.  per  ton  at  the 
pit  mouth.  A  cart  load  weighs  84  stone  Dutch,  or  13  cwt.  and 
14  lbs. ;  and  when  contracted  for  on  behalf  of  the  poor,  it  varies 
from  7s.  to  8s.  6d.,  including  carriage  and  tolls.  ' 

There  is  no  distillery  now  in  the  parish.  The  one  belonging  to 
Mr  Stein  of  Hattonburn,  noticed  in  the  former  Statistical  Account, 
having  been  converted  into  a  potato-flour  or  farina  manufactory. 

Miscellaneous  Observations. 
Since  the  former  Statistical  Account  was  written,  and,  indeed, 
within  the  last  thirty  years,  great  alterations  have  taken  place  ow- 
ing to  an  extensive  system  of  draining,  and  a  more  skilful  method  of 
husbandry.  Many  fields,  which  at  that  period  were  totally  useless, 
may  now  be  seen  to  produce  excellent  crops.  The  greater  part  of 
the  parish  is  dry ;  yet,  from  the  close-bottomed  nature  of  many 
fields,  improvement  still  may  be  expected  from  wedge-draining,  as 
yet  partially  introduced ;  and  it  is  probable  that  this  will  be  more 
attended  to,  as  the  returns  to  those  farmers  who  have  thoroughly 
practised  it  have  been  satisfactory.  The  roads  are  all  in  excellent 
order,  and  lime  is  to  be  had  at  a  convenient  distance,  and  at  no 
great  expense.  Taking  these  circumstances  into  view,  together 
with  the  moderate  rate  of  wages,  the  agriculturist  has  every  facility 
to  carry  on  his  improvements. 


April  1839. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS 

ON  THE  COUNTY  OF  KINROSS. 


Sir  Robert  Sibbald,  in  his  History  of  Fife  and  Kinross,  tells 
us,  that,  in  the  ancient  language  of  the  Picts,  the  county  of  Fife 
was  called  Ross,  "  which  signifieth  a  peninsula,"  and  adds,  "  that 
the  upper  part  of  this  territory,  formed  by  the  Friths  of  Forth  and 
Tay,  got  the  name  of  Kenn-Hoss,  which  means  the  head  of  the 
peninsula."  He  does  not,  however,  adduce  a  shadow  of  evidence 
to  satisfy  us  that  the  county  of  Fife  was  at  any  period  called  Ross; 
and  we  are  rather  inclined  to  suppose,  that  the  origin  of  the  word 
Kinross  arose  entirely  from  some  local  circumstance. 

This  county  lies  between  3°  14'  and  3°  35'  west  longitude,  and 
between  56°  9'  and  50°  18'  north  latitude.  From  the  eastmost 
point  at  Auchmoor  Bridge  over  the  River  Leven  to  the  westmost 
part,  where  it  is  bounded  by  the  Devon,  it  does  not  exceed  twelve 
miles  in  extent ;  and  from  Kelty- Bridge,  on  the  south  to  Damhead 
on  the  north,  is  scarcely  ten.  The  area  of  the  whole  county 
does  not  exceed  seventy  square  miles,  or  44,800  imperial  acres ; 
and  thus  it  is  one  of  the  smallest  shires  in  Scotland.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  north,  by  the  Ochil-hills,  which  separate  the  district 
from  Strathearn  ;  on  the  east,  by  the  Lomond-hills ;  and  the  south- 
east and  south-west  boundaries  run  partly  along  the  summit  of  Be- 
narty,  and  partly  along  the  flat  ground  to  a  point  on  Kelty-burn, 
w  hence  the  Cleish-hills,  extending  to  the  west,  divide  it  from  Fife. 
Thus,  though  the  boundaries  are  generally  hilly,  there  is  a  level 
opening  at  Blair- Adam,  between  Benarty  and  the  Cleish-hills, 
through  which  the  great  north  road  passes  ;  there  is  another  open- 
ing to  the  north-east,  between  the  Ochil  and  Lomond-hills,  lead- 
ing towards  Cupar- Fife  ;  and  a  third  level,  more  extensive  than 
any  of  the  former,  opens  to  the  west  towards  Stirling,  at  the  Crook 
of  Devon.  In  addition  to  these,  there  is  a  narrow  pass  through 
which  the  River  Leven  flows  from  the  loch. 

Previous  to  the  year  1426,  the  greater  ])art  of  this  county  was 


GENERAL  OBSEUVATIONS. 


71 


incorporated  with  Fifeshire,  and  at  the  period  when  the  disjunc- 
tion took  place,  it  comprised  only  the  parishes  of  Kinross,  Orwell, 
and  Portmoak;  but  in  the  year  1685,  the  King  and  estates  in 
Parliament,  in  consideration  of  the  smallness  of  the  county,  added 
Cleish,  TuUiebole,  and  some  lands  lying  in  Perthshire.  These 
constituted  the  county  or  sheriffdom  of  Kinross.  But  although 
separated  from  Fife,  the  same  Sheriff-depute  was  placed  over  both, 
in  the  same  way  as  one  was  placed  over  Stirling  and  Clackman- 
nan. This  state  of  matters  continued  till  the  year  1807,  when  the 
counties  of  Clackmannan  and  Kinross  were  united  into  one  She- 
riffdom.— Kinross-shire  at  present  comprehends  only  four  entire 
parishes,  with  portions  of  three  others,  which  will  be  noticed  un- 
der the  county  of  Perth,  to  which  they  chiefly  belong. 

The  greater  part  of  this  small  territory  is  dry,  resting  on  a  sharp 
gravel,  intermingled  with  small  portions  of  clayey  loam,  and  a  good 
deal  of  it  is  of  a  moorish  quality.  The  climate,  though  cold  and  wet, 
owing  to  the  general  elevation  of  the  district,  has  been  much  improv- 
ed by  an  extensive  system  of  drainage,  and  is  upon  the  whole  consi- 
dered healthy, — the  people  being  vigorous  and  subject  to  few  ma- 
ladies.   Indeed,  the  whole  county  till  a  very  recent  period  was 
wild  and  barren,  which  circumstance  has  been  attributed  to  the 
local  peculiarity  of  the  district  being  divided  into  small  farms — al- 
most every  single  farm  being  a  separate  property,  and  generally 
possessed  by  its  owner.    Thus  the  number  of  small  proprietors  are 
greater  here  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  district  than  elsewhere. 
These  farms  were  feued  out  . chiefly  about  the  end  of  the  seven- 
teenth or  beginning  of  the  last  century  for  a  feu-duty.    "  The 
marches  of  the  various  farms,"  it  is  stated  in  Chambers'  Gazetteer, 
"  not  having  been  well  defined,  and  being  distracted  by  the  practice 
of  run-rig,  it  was  long  before  the  county  manifested  very  active 
signs  of  improvement.   Within  the  recollection  of  persons  of  mid- 
dle life,  few  districts  were  worse  cultivated  or  less  profitable  than 
Kinross-shire  ;  but  various  circumstances,  among  which  is  includ- 
ed the  good  example  shown  by  neighbours,  ultimately  induced  a 
spirited  change,  and  now,  from  less  to  more,  the  agriculture,  the 
mode  of  draining,  enclosing,  and  planting  can  vie  with  those  of 
Fife,  or  most  other  places."    The  whole  productive  land  is  about 
four-fifths  of  the  whole  county,  and  when  let  is  on  leases  generally 
from  fourteen  to  twenty-one  years,  the  rent  for  the  most  part  being 
a  fixed  annual  sum.    The  size  of  the  farms  vary  from  50  to  300 
acres — the  corn  crops  being  oats  and  barley,  though  occasionally 


72 


GENERAL  OllSEUVATlONS  ON  THE 


on  the  better  soils  wheat  is  cultivated.  Potatoes,  turnips,  clovers, 
and  rye-grass  are  raised  all  over  the  county.  A  fair  proportion  of 
these  farms  is  in  grass,  for  which  the  soil  and  clinnate  are  both 
favourable.  The  pastures  of  the  cultivated  land  are  occupied  by 
cattle,  but  sheep  are  kept  in  numbers  only  on  the  Cleish  and 
Ochil-  hills.  It  is  supposed  that  about  3000  acres  are  under  wood, 
the  most  extensive  plantations  being  on  Blair- Adam.  These  were 
begun  in  1733,  and  at  the  present  time  cover  about  1300  acres, 
consisting  of  oak,  ash,  larch,  elm,  beech,  spruce,  silver  and  Scotch 
fir ;  the  last,  however,  it  is  understood,  does  not  grow  well  in  ex- 
posed situations.  The  mineralogy  of  the  shire  is  of  little  import- 
ance. Coal  has  been  found  on  the  south,  where  the  county  joins 
Fifeshire,  but  is  not  wrought  in  this  county.  Freestone  quarries  of 
excellent  quality  are  likewise  wrought  in  the  parish  of  Cleish,  and 
whinstone  is  almost  every  where  to  be  met  with.  To  the  north  of 
Kinross,  red  freestone  is  the  geological  formation  of  the  district, 
and  limestone,  in  great  profusion,  is  obtained  from  the  Lomond- 
hills.  The  roads  throughout  the  county  are  all  good,  and  none  in 
Scotland  can  surpass  in  excellence  the  great  north  road,  which  runs 
through  Kinross,  the  county  town.  This  town  is  the  only  one  in 
the  shire,  but  there  is  a  large  and  populous  village,  about  a  mile  to 
the  north,  called  Milnathort.  At  both  these  places,  several  an- 
nual fairs  are  held,  and  at  the  latter  a  weekly  corn-market  for  the 
sale  of  grain.  The  manufacture  of  cutlery  was  formerly  carried 
on  in  Kinross,  but  has  for  a  long  period  been  entirely  abandoned. 
A  great  many  people  are  employed  in  weaving  cotton,  chiefly  by 
the  manufacturers  of  Glasgow  ;  and  within  the  last  twelve  months, 
two  or  three  companies  belonging  to  Kinross  and  Milnathort,  have 
set  agoing  the  manufacture  of  tartan  shawls  and  plaids,  which 
hitherto  appears  to  have  met  with  success. 

The  annual  value  of  real  property  in  1815,  was  L.  25,805,  and 
now  it  cannot  be  estimated  at  less  than  L.  35,000  or  L.  40,000. 

Legal  assessments  for  the  poor  are  seldom  resorted  to,  the 
heritors  preferring  to  contribute  according  to  their  rentals  what 
sums  may  be  necessary. 

Li  this  county  there  are  a  few  small  rivulets,  which,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Leven,  act  as  feeders  to  the  loch.  This  sheet  of 
water  lies  in  the  south-east  part  of  the  county,  at  an  elevation  of 
about  360  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  emptied  by 
the  stream  just  alluded  to,  which  flows  in  an  easterly  direction 
through  Fifeshire,  till  it  disembogues  itself  into  Largo  Bay.  Loch 


COUNTY  OF  KINROSS. 


Leven  is  from  eiglit  to  nine  miles  in  circumference,  and  covers 
about  4000  acres ;  though  inferior  in  magnitude  and  picturesque 
beauty  to  some  of  the  Highland  lochs,  it  is  still  a  noble  expanse  of 
water.  Trout,  pike,  perch,  and  eel,  are  found  here  in  abundance.  It 
is  of  an  irregular  oval  figure,  possessing  several  islets,  of  which  only 
two  are  worth  noticing, — the  one,  extending  to  about  five  acres,  is 
situated  within  a  short  distance  of  the  shore  at  Kinross,  and  here 
are  the  remains  of  the  castle,  once  the  prison  of  the  unfortunate 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots ;  the  other,  called  St  Serf's  Isle,  having  a 
flat,  bare  appearance,  is  neaf  the  south-east  extremity  of  the  loch. 
On  the  latter  island  there  was  a  priory  dedicated  to  St  Serf  or  Ser- 
vanus,  which  must  have  been  placed  here  upwards  of  1000  years 
ago,  but  no  vestige  of  it  is  now  to  be  seen.  A  considerable 
number  of  cattle  and  sheep  are  pastured  upon  this  island,  which, 
since  the  draining  of  the  loch,  immediately  about  to  be  noticed,  ex- 
tends to  upwards  of  100  acres.  On  the  other  island,  containing 
the  castle,  the  main  tower  of  which,  it  may  be  observed,  appears 
to  be  about  the  same  size  as  the  border  towers,  a  fortlet  was  first 
built  by  Congal,  a  valiant  Pictish  King,  who  reigned  towards  the 
end  of  the  fifth  century.  At  what  period  the  castle  itself  was  erect- 
ed We  are  not  informed,  but  it  makes  an  early  appearance  in  our 
history.  In  the  year  1335  it  was  defended  by  Alan  de  Vipont,  a 
Scottish  royalist,  against  a  John  de  Strivilin,  apparently  a  Scottish- 
man,  but  who  acted  in  behalf  of  Baliol.  A  fort  was  erected  in  the 
churchyard  of  Kinross,  on  a  neighbouring  promontory,  and  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  lake,  where  the  water  issues  from  it,  an  embankment 
was  thrown  across  with  the  view  of  laying  the  island  and  castle  under 
water,  and  thereby  compelling  the  besieged  to  surrender.  Vipont 
took  the  opportunity  of  the  English  General  being  absent  on  some 
pious  duty  at  Dunfermline,  and  broke  through  this  barrier  to  the 
utter  confusion  and  discomfiture  of  the  English.  Such  is  the  story 
told  by  Buchanan,  but  it  does  not  appear  probable  ;  for  an  embank- 
ment such  as  would  inconvenience  the  besieged,  must,  from  the 
nature  of  the  ground,  have  also  annoyed  the  blockading  party  on  the 
shore  at  Kinross.  And  when  we  consider  the  magnitude  of  the 
operations  required — the  strength  of  the  works  necessary — and  the 
time  requisite  for  accumulating  the  water,  we  are  inclined  to 
place  little  reliance  in  the  tale,  considering  that  it  happened  in  the 
time  of  war  and  slender  resources.  It  appears  to  us,  however,  that 
the  termination  of  the  lake  formerly  must  have  been  at  the  east  end 
of  the  level  carse  through  which  the  stream  of  the  Leven  flows. 

KINROSS. 


74  GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE 

Here  even  now  the  rising  grounds  on  each  side  almost  meet  to- 
gether, and  in  all  likelihood  the  natural  barrier  having,  from  some 
cause  or  other,  given  way,  the  waters  of  the  loch  receded  to  their 
lowest  level,  and  thus  the  carse  was  formed. 

The  drainage  of  the  loch,  which  has  lately  been  effected,  had 
engaged  the  attention  of  many  of  the  proprietors  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood for  half  a  century  ;  but  it  was  only  within  the  last  twelve 
years  that  any  attempt  was  seriously  made  to  get  this  object  ac- 
complished.   An  act  of  Parliament  was  at  length  obtained  ;  and 
though  the  operations  have  now  been  completed  at  an  expense  of 
some  L.  40,000,  it  is  very  questionable  whether  the  advantages, 
supposed  to  arise  from  the  measure,  have  not  been  greatly  exag- 
gerated.   A  few  proprietors  may  probably  feel  its  good  effects ; 
but,  in  general,  the  ground  recovered,  which  may  be  about  1000 
acres  in  all,  is  poor.— that  on  the  eastern  side,  which  comprises 
the  greater  proportion,  being  composed  of  a  covering  of  whitish 
sand,  having  generally  a  subsoil  of  bluish  tilly  sand,  of  a  most 
unproductive  quality. '    If  any  material  advantage  arise  from  the 
operations,  it  must  be  to  the  land-owners  along  the  river,  who 
have  obtained  a  greater  facility  for  draining ;  or  to  the  mill-pro- 
prietors, who,  indeed,  will  chiefly  reap  the  advantage ;  and  appa- 
rently endless  disputes  have  already  arisen  as  to  the  proportions  of 
the  expense  which  each  party  interested  has  to  pay. 

The  features  of  the  county,  in  general,  are  not  very  imposing, 
yet  still  they  have  a  few  charms  ;  nor  do  we  know  any  thing  more 
beautiful  than  the  view  to  be  obtained  from  the  rising  ground  on 
the  eastern  side  of  Loch  Leven  in  an  autumnal  morning,  when  the 
mist  which  has  enveloped  the  whole  county  may  be  seen  gradually 
ascending  from  the  lake,  under  the  influence  of  the  rising  sun,  and 
unfolding  to  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  the  calm  unruffled  surface  of 
the  waters,  with  the'gray  and  lonely  castle— connected  with  many 
a  strange  tale  in  our  history— reposing  in  its  bosom ;  as  the  mist 
clears  away,  the  hills  are  seen  girding  on  the  whole,  which  pre- 
sents at  such  a  moment  a  picture  highly  interesting  and  sublime. 

The  following  shows  the  state  of  the  population  at  difl"erent  pe- 
riods : — 


Population  in  1755. 

1791, 
1801, 
1811, 
1821, 
1831. 


5944 
6181 
6725 
7245 
7762 
9072 


COUNTY  OF  KINROSS.  7  5 


And  the  following,  applicable  to  the  year  1831,  may  not  be  un- 
appropriate  in  this  place  : — 

Area  in  statute  miles  and  acres  ;  70  square  miles,  or  44,800  acres.  ^ 
Inhabited  houses,  .   ■         •  ;  "  '  '  aaq 

Number  of  families  chiefly  employed  m  ^S^c^^^^^^^^^^^  -^^  ^^^^ 

All  other  families  not  comprised  in  the  two  preceding  classes,  ^ .  ^60 

Males,  •  •  •  •  \  ■  4553 

Females,  •  •  '  '  '  129 

Number  of  inhabitants  to  each  square  mile,  .  •  • 

persons  corresponding  to  each  family,  .  •  • 

house,  .  .  •  " 

Until  the  passing  of  the  Reform  Act  in  1832,  Kinross-shire 
retnrned  a  member  to  serve  in  Parliament  only  alternately  with 
Clackmannan,  and  the  number  of  freeholders  then  on  the  roll  was 
21.  The  constituency  at  present  is  498,  and  that  of  Clackman- 
nan 797  ;  both  counties  uniting  in  sending  a  representative  to  Par- 
liament. 


76 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


tn 
O 

fc2 


O 
>-, 

c 

o 
O 

rSZ 


CD 
tn 

(D 
J3 


C 

J/3 


05 


03 


3: 
O 

be 
c 

o 


Annual  amount  of  contributions  for  Poor.  1 

Total. 

1— I  f—* 
VI  ^ 

—  00 
J  J 

From  assess- 
ment or  vo- 
luntary contri 
butions  by 
Heritors. 

Int.  of  L.620 

From  church 
Collections 

CO  -flc» 

2      :  :  20 

Q  03 

Par.  Schoolmasters'  Emoluments.' 

Total. 

T3              .  -C 

-no*  -flS^ 

o?  o 

00           l>  00 

J      J  J 

Fees 

L.55 

l'.36 
L.50 

« 
a 
m 

-*  ^Tj- 
tn        w  trt  tn 

OT      CO  «  SO 

J       i-j  J 

•qsiJBj  uiS[Ooq3(5 

00       -<t  CO  CO 

Parochial 
Ministers' 
Stipend. 

•              .       .  CO 

,— 1  J3            ^  05 

00       «5 <^ 

S  -*  «  lo 

^  o;  lO  CO  lO 

put!  sjajuassiQ 

O  CO 

:      :  o  00 

•qojni[3  po 
-qsjiquisg  oj  Sui 
-Suopq  suosjaj 

1240 

620 
1822t 

■paoag  Tg  sjajuos 

:         :  : 

«— 1  . 

•qainqg  "qBisg  o% 
•S[io[aq  saiiiuiB,y 

1  Ol 

:  : 

Parish. 

Kinross, 

Portmoak, 

Cleish, 

Orwell, 

'3 
.o 

>» 
u 
s 

_<u 

IK 

•a 

■s 

CXi 
3 

S) 

a 

B 


3 


C 
3 
O 

E 

C3 
01 
Si 


13 


1-4 


c 

3 

o 

e 


Oi 

c 

> 

cu 


V 
C-. 

o 
o 

0) 

.a 

o 
c 
fi 

<3 


3 

.a 

CO 
00 


_  o 

3  cj 


^  = 

•T3  o 

c  . 

is  CO 

=a  5;  00 

^  cj  — 


o 
■a 


o 
a 
bD 
ra 

> 

a 

s 

C3 

°  s 

- 

/3  .o  ^ 


rt  CO 

"i  " 

c3  m 

a  >» 

0)  .o  5, 

j3  -a  J= 

O  g  ° 

 bo 


o  -J  2 


'J  3 


3  _ 


-I 


—   0)  j- 

.2  5H 

<L) 

■*-4t  SsO 


May  1839. 


INDEX. 


Agriculture  and  rural  economy,  16,  34, 
42,  62 

Aldie  bog,  drainage  of,  47 
Antiquities,  11,  33,  41,  64 
Benarrie,  hill  of,  30 
Bishop's  hill,  the,  30 
Blair,  Adam  40,  42— improvements  at, 
48 

Botany,  8,  40,  56 

Bruce,  Michael,  his  residence  at  Cleish, 
41 

Bruce,  Sir  William,  the  architect,  8 
Burleigh  castle,  ruins  of,  59 
Burleigh,  Lord,  58 

Burleigh,  the  master  of,  condemned  for 
murder,  60 

Burying  place,   ancient,   at  Gallows 
know,  12 

Cairn. a^vain,  relics  found  at,  60 

Castle  island,  the,  in  Lochleven,  3 

Character  and  habits  of  the  population, 
15,  34,  42,  62 

Churches  connected  with  the  Establish- 
ment, see  Ecclesiastical  Statistics. 

Cleish,  parish  of,  38  —  ruins   of  the 
Place  of,  41 

Climate,  see  Meteorology. 

Coins,  ancient  British,  found  at  Col- 
don,  11 

Collieries  at  Portmoak,  37— at  Blair 
Adam,  39 

Coventry,  Professor,  birth-place  of,  58 
Crawfurd,  Captain,  bequest  by,  for  the 

poor  of  Orwell,  64 
Danish  remains  in  the  parish  of  Orwell, 

59 

Dissenters  and  Dissenting  chapels,  22 

36,  50,  65 
Dowhill  house,  ruins  of,  41 
•  Drainage  of  Aldie  bog,  47 — of  Loch- 
.     leven,  2,  34,  74 
Draining,  important  improvements  by, 
43 

Dumglow  hill,  38 — remains  of  ancient 

camp  on,  41 
Education,  statistics  of,  24,  36,  50,  65 
Ecclesiastical  statistics,  24,  36,  50,  64 
Fairs  and  markets,  27,  68 
Fisheries,  the  trout,  &c.  of  Lochleven, 

7 — effects  of  its  drainage  on,  6 
Freestone,  see  quarries. 
Gairney  water,  the,  39 — deepening  of 

its  channel,  43 
KINRO.SS. 


GaUows  know,  skeletons  found  at,  12 
Geology  and  mineralogy,  4,  31,  39,  54 
Grahame,  George,  bequest  by,  for  poor 

of  Kinross,  27 
Inch  island,  the,  in  Lochleven,  3,  73 
Ingan  hills,  the,  38 

Inns  and  alehouses,  and  their  effects,  27, 
69 

Islands  in  Lochleven,  3,  73 
Keiry  crags,  the,  42 
Kinross-shire,  general  observations  on, 
70 

Kinross,  origin  of  the  name,  1 — parish 
of,  1 — ministers  of,  from  the  Refor- 
mation, 9 

Kinross,  tovm  of,  15, 19 — church,  21 — 
gas  company,-  28 — prison,  27 

Libraries  and  literature,  25,  66 

Limestone,  quarries  of,  at  Benartie,  31, 
35— at  Scarhill,  39 

Live-stock,  breeds  of,  44 

Loch  Glow,  39 

Lochleven,  2,  72 — drainage  of,  2,  34, 

74 — effects  of  the  drainage  on  the 

fisheries,  6 — fisheries  of,  7 
Lochleven  castle,  history  of,  12 — keys 

of,  found  in  the  loch,  13 
Manufactures,  18,  35 
Maryburgh,  village  of,  50 
Meteorology  and  climate,  1,  38,  53 
Mills,  various,  in  parish  of  Kinross,  .4 
Milnathort  quarries,  56 — village  of,  61, 

63— library,  60 
Mineralogy,  see  Geology 
Nivingstone  house,  41 — quarries,  44 
Orwell  or  Urwell,  parish  of,  52 — old 

church  of,  59 
Parchment  manufactory  at  Portmoak, 

35 

Paupers  and  pauperism,  26,  37,  51,  57 
Pitcairn,  Robert,  the  commendator  of 

Dunfermline  abbey,  10 
Place  of  Cleish,  ruins  of,  41 
Plantations  and  planting,  16,  33,  72 
Poaching,  prevalence  of,  15 
Poor,  management  of  the,  26,  37,  51, 

67 

Population  returns,  15,  33,  42,  60 
Population,  character  of,  15,  34,  42,  62 
Portmoak,  parish  of,  30 
Priory  of  St  Serf,  ruins  of,  33,  73 
Powburn,  the,  45 

G 


78 


KINROSS-SHIRE. 


Quarries,  freestone,  39,  44,  56 — lime- 
stone, 31,  39 

Qneich  water,  the,  54 

St  Serfs  Isle,  3,  73 — ruins  of  priory  on, 
33,  73 

Savings  banks,  25,  67 

Schools,  parochial,  &c.,  see  Educiition. 

Scotland  well,  village  of,  31 — ruins  of 
chapel  at,  33 

Seal  of  James  IV.  found  at  West  Green, 
II 

Societies,  friendly,  25 — religious,  23 


Stone  coffins  found  at  Orwell,  59 
Swedish   crossbill,   appearance  of  at 

Lochleven,  8 
Tartans,  manufactory  of,  18 
Thomson,  Professor,  birth-place  of,  9 
Trout,  the  Lochleven,  7 
Urwell,  see  Orwell. 
Wages,  rates  of,  44,  62 
Woods,  see  Plantations. 
Young,  Dr,  of  Rosetta,  birth-place  of, 

58 

Zoology,  6,  32,  56 


I'BINTED  BY  JOHN  STARK, 
OLD  ASSKJIBI.Y  CLOSE,  EniNBUnoiI.